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RE: Easy question, engine lift

To: "Timothy F. Murphy" <timmurph@execpc.com>, "'FOT'"
Subject: RE: Easy question, engine lift
From: "Brad Eells" <bradlnss@lightspeed.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 20:10:36 -0700
Tim,

My $.02:

Sounds like you are missing both the front lifting 'eye' that attaches to
the front engine plate and the 'hook' that attaches to the right rear head
stud. You could make up some lifting plates to attach to the front left and
right rear head studs to hook your balance bar.

Just make sure you have an absolutely positive connection. Not a good time
to have a failure when your engine is hanging 4 feet in the air!

I bought the $200 engine hoist from Harbor Freight Tools and used a length
of chain and some U-Bolts, worked great! I do have the original lifting
hooks and eyes, however.

Replacing the studs is a good idea. You can purchase a racing quality studs
and nuts kit from ARP for $109...less than OEM studs at Moss or TRF. They
are way better than stock! ARP will supply you with fancy 12 point nuts in
the kit. You can replace them with their hex nuts (I did) for the original
look.

Check out ARP at:

http://www.arp-bolts.com

Cheers,

Brad
62 TR4
65 TR4A IRS

<I'm about to pull the engine out of the 1961 TR-4 race car and would
like some advice on the best way to hook the hoist up.  I have some
forged "eye-nuts" that I plan to screw onto the head studs and then
connect to the balance bar on the engine hoist.  Is there a better way?
    Also, with head bolts it is usually recommended that they be renewed
after a few uses and in some cases, every case after every head removal,
because they get stretched beyond their yield point.  I've never seen
anything about replacing  head studs.  What is the general practice for
the studs on the TR-4 motor?>

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