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RE: Brakes Work "Too Good"

To: "'Tony Drews'" <tony@tonydrews.com>, fot@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Brakes Work "Too Good"
From: Bill Babcock <BillB@bnj.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 17:37:28 -0700
I wasn't going to weigh in on this, but I'm in violent agreement with
Tony. I can't imagine using old technology power brakes. The new tech ones
are cool, but the old vacuum assist stuff was really hard to modulate and
inconsistent. I don't know how you'd stop from flat-spotting tires. 

-----Original Message-----
From: Tony Drews [mailto:tony@tonydrews.com]
Sent: Monday, April 22, 2002 4:48 PM
To: fot@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Brakes Work "Too Good"


I'd start by ditching the power brake master cylinder and going to a
tilton 
style setup.  We found the TR-6 power brake setup to be effective but 
difficult to modulate.  I'd think it'd be worse in an auto-x 
environment.  We have MUCH better feel with unboosted brakes.

- Tony Drews

At 11:36 AM 4/22/2002, Robert M. Lang wrote:
>Hi,
>
>I'm tossing out a trial balloon - so ignore this message if you don't
like
>mindless bantering.
>
>I chorded a second set of Goodyears this weekend. Actually, I chorded
only
>the right front - but this one was majorly chorded. With the resultant
>high speed vibration that one might expect from a severly flat spotted
>tire at 75+ MPH.
>
>Yes, it was a fast autocross course!
>
>At any rate, I'm clearly locking up the wheel in the same place and
>thereby getting uneven wear. On a hunch, I measured the runout of the
>brake disk on that side and found .005 total runout. That doesn't seem
too
>bad.
>
>So now I'm trying to figure out what to do. The cold-stop pads seem to
>work "too good" with the stock calipers and the vacuum brake booster, so
I
>have a couple of options.
>
>1. resurface the brake disks to get 'em "true".
>
>2. remove the brake booster vacuum line, or at the very least try to
>regulate the brake vacuum to something less than what I'm getting now
>(which I have no idea what the value of vaccuum is).
>
>3. convert to semi-metallic pads in the theory that they won't be as
>"grabby" and thereby lessen the chance of lockup under moderate pedal
>effort.
>
>4. Toss the stock brakes altogether and load up some Toyota 4 pot
calipers
>and a differnt master swilinder arrangement...
>
>I'm figuring the near term solution to be a combo of the first three
>options. I really don't want to get into a major plumbing operation for
>the brake system now that we are in the driving season... but one has to
>do what one has to do.
>
>These tires are expensive!
>
>regards,
>rml
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