I did inspect and adjust the rear drums after most track sessions; and also
inspected
the rear hubs, nuts, and grease seals at the same time. Keeping the brake
shoes square
to the drum surface is a good idea too.
I managed to pinch a rear brake line flat towing to Riverside once, and the
restriction
to that wheel caused a number of cracks in the unobtanium 10 x 2.5 Wellworthy
(factory)
drum's liner in just one track session.
I used a die grinder to remove the edge that was proud of the remaining
surface. I had to run that drum for quite some time before finding a
replacement, so I looked at the
nasty cracks for some time. Minor heat cracks are another matter.
Motor oil filters: With the standard TR3A/4A filter (not to be confused with
the earlier
bypass filter) it is easy to check the canister for FOD each time.
With a spin on filter, one has to cut the darn thing apart to do that.
(hint)
I have also seen too many cases of leaks and failures.
BB's warning about plumbing a cooler carefully is very well taken, and
the ONLY way to drive the oil pressure gauge is directly from the oil galery,
not off the filter head.
There are also considerable internal possibilities beyond what just screws
on, as anyone aware of the MGB inverted spin on knows!
Perhaps I will not show the below comment to Ellie! lol
Hardy
>
> Maybe others have different experiences with the potential hazard of the
> cracks, but I've never seen a Datsun drum cause any real problems. I do
> seem to remember Hardy being very attentive to his drums, of course Hardy
> lavishes lot's of attention on most everything .
>
> Dave Talbott
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