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Gary,
Always best to try this in a controlled environment to see if the problem is
beyond
this. Hydrolock is not a nice thing.
Naturally, I first used the stuff when I had driven to the track and pulled
the rocker cover
to adjust the valves the next day after SU AM warm up and found water in the
oil. As this was one of my first weekends qualifying on the pole, I was not
pleased, but in short order three friends came by and returned with three kinds
of stop leak.
We had two pace laps (not my doing), and I fell back at the start; all of
which helped (I do not like the "idle the motor" instructions), but do believe
in
running it with light load.
Needless to say, during the victory lap, I concluded that the stuff can work.
Hardy
In a message dated 11/4/2005 5:01:43 PM Pacific Standard Time,
vintage.racer@comcast.net writes:
Hardy:
Thanks, this is encouraging info.
Gary
----- Original Message -----
From: Catpusher@aol.com
To: fot@autox.team.net
Cc: vintage.racer@comcast.net
Sent: Friday, November 04, 2005 11:04 AM
Subject: Re:: Cooling System
My last good TR3B MK ll head had a crack in the squish area, right in the
combustion chamber. I ran this head with stop leak for several years.
The stop leak does last for at least part of the season, and I added more
when necessary.
I never had any problem with the radiator flow; I simply ran a garden hose
flush every year or two. This worked both with the STD. radiator and the trick
alloy one.
I also routinely ran stop leak with the pop-up head to keep the oil cleaner
when the head gasket seeped, and cover for the possibility of a small rock
hitting the radiator.
I run Bar's in my street TR3A, GT6+, and 67 Etype
For many years every new Jaguar left the factory with Bar's in the system;
you will find a Jaguar part # for it if you look.
Bar's was the brand that I put in first, as it is inexpensive and good; if it
alone did not work, I would add the Justice Brothers stop leak that looks
like a green slime/avacado dip!
Hardy
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