Todd
I just went through the whole rear end business. One thing to watch out for
is that when Southwick cuts off the Triumph hub and replaces it with a Ford
unit the weld is very heavy. I couldn't get the u-bolts that hold the rear
end to the leaf springs to fit. I bought a die grinder and took a healthy
portion of weld off. After screwing around for 2 days I finally took the
rear end, u-bolts, and leaf springs to a shop with a mill and they milled a
couple grooves in the welds so the u-bolts would fit and still look
presentable (not like some dumbbell with a die grinder grinding through the
weld into the hub!)
Also the orientation of the hub will require new brake lines (the backing
plates are rotated about 30 degrees from stock) and if you are using the
hand brake you may have to make new cables (one of mine fit but one was too
short).
Finally I hope you marked the bearing caps because orientation matters (I
got my hand slapped on that one too). Since I had the rear end out and apart
I installed a Detroit Locker LSD (if you are racing it really helps), I
re-arched the springs, I installed Joe Alexander's bronze bushing kit in the
rear and had a custom made set of bronze bushings for the front spring
mount. I only mention this because it's such a pain in the rear to take it
out and reinstall.
Good luck
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-fot@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-fot@autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of alfetta95@optonline.net
Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2006 8:38 AM
To: FOT@autox.team.net
Subject: [FOT] Rear Diff removal
I'm getting ready to receive a Southwick Conversion axle in the next couple
of weeks. In doing so, I'm tearing down my current axle to use the carrier,
(welded diff). Other than the "Special" tool required to "spread" the diff
housing as shown in the Haynes manual, is there a way to remove the carrier?
I've removed the two bearing caps already.
Thanks
Todd Redmond
TR3A
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