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RE: [FOT] Tr2 resto question

To: <epaul21988@aol.com>, <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: [FOT] Tr2 resto question
From: "Randall Young" <ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2006 17:01:31 -0700
> i started
> looking around and found that the brake drum and backing plate don't
> meet squarely on the passengers side the top leaned out an 1/8" or
> more.  I don't know it has any thing to do with the caster but it
> seems to me that it would.

As Bill said, that's camber, not caster.  Pretty clearly something wrong
with the suspension on the passenger's side, 1" is way too much positive
camber.  The backing plate might just be bent, so that isn't necessarily the
problem point, but it sure sounds suspicious to me.

>  it was suggest to me to take it to a frame
> shop and have the towers bent inward.

Very bad idea, IMO, unless you can identify positively that the towers are
spread too far apart.  The camber was close to equal on both sides when it
left the factory, so you clearly have some damage (or improper assembly) of
some sort.  Find the problem first, don't just start bending the frame to
cover it up.

>  not sure what to do any suggestions?

There are several diagrams in the workshop manual, plus you have the other
side to compare to.  Check pages 228 and 268 in the Bentley.  I would start
with a careful inspection by eye, especially of the pivot points and the
vertical link, looking for anything that is bent (relative to the part on
the other side) or out of place.  On one of my TR3s, the inner pivot pulled
out of the frame on the driver's side, leading to sudden direction changes
when the brakes were applied ... the damage was initially only visible as
the inner pivot bolt hanging over the edge of the frame instead of being
near the center as it should be.

Let me know if you would like copies of the diagrams emailed.

BTW, I disagree about not using a square to check camber ... if your floor
is flat, it's at least as good as the equipment they use in ordinary
professional alignment centers.  To be accurate, you need to measure to the
wheel near the bead, and take into account any runout in the wheel (and
bearings), but there's nothing inherently wrong with using a square.  And at
the level you are looking at, using the tire edge should be fine.

If all else fails, try swapping the vertical links (complete with spindle &
backing plate) between sides.  If the problem doesn't follow the vertical
link, then it has to be the A-arms or their pivot points on the frame or the
ball joint/trunnion.  But from your comment about the backing plate not
being parallel to the drum, I'd guess it's on the vertical link.

Randall



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