I'm ambivalent about the front block. If you think it's been
installed for a long time and the cork is hardened it certainly
doesn't hurt to replace the cork but I doubt that's the problem. It
doesn't take as long as you think to beat the bolt holes back
down. I do that probably every other rebuild. Timing cover is the
same deal - just beat that back flat today. Actually, if you can
dish them a little the other way, they'll pull up nicely when the pan
is tightened. The pan gasket from Moss or British Parts Northwest is
fine. Coat it thinly (I use my finger tip to apply) with high temp
rtv silicone on both sides. I prefer the black version of that "form
a gasket". One of the oil pan gasket sets (I probably bought it from
Moss) includes the cork for the front block.
The normal source of major leaks is the front seal or the rear main seal.
The stuff in the pan is troubling and probably justifies a complete
disassembly and cleaning. The oil pick up tube with attached screen
is available from Moss, I think. Having crap circulate with the oil
cause wear to the inside of the oil pump, to the main bearings, rod
bearings and the crank. Even with great filters, there are bypass
circuit(s) in the oil filter head that can allow the crap to bypass
the oil filter, unfortunately.
British Parts Northwest sells 0.005 oversize thrust washers - both
sides are 0.005" oversize so it actually takes 0.010 out of the end
float. You can use half a set of normal thrust washers and half a
set of oversized. That's what I
did.
http://www.bpnorthwest.com/.sc/ms/dd/TR3-4A--Main%20Engine%20Components/7052/Thrust%20Washer%20Set%20TR3-4A
Also, putting them in backwards is a great way to ruin a crank and block.
Also, my hint for the day... When installing the cam and timing it
to the crank, be sure you are using the INTAKE lobe instead of the
exhaust lobe. It turns out that the valves interfere with popup
pistons if you use the exhaust lobe by mistake. I'll be using
another timing cover gasket and another head gasket tomorrow making
that right. Luckily they interfered or I wouldn't have figured it
out until after I put the engine in the car. Sheesh. And the cam
timing went so quickly - I was feeling like superman.
- Tony
At 05:28 AM 4/26/2008, Steven Preiss wrote:
>I just pulled the pan on my 3/4 to replace the chronically leaking gasket. The
>old gasket was squeezed paper thin and had been stuck to the block with copper
>kote. Ugh! Can't remember the last time I came accross that stuff! Manual says
>to coat gasket with grease. Any insights, you'all? Must the front seal housing
>be removed and cork tabs be replaced as well? The pan flange is quite wavy
>when I sight down it, from years of overtightened I reckon. Trying to decide
>if its worth it to go at it with a hammer and drift. All used ones are
>probably the same. French's alum pans are $500. Would be nice though. Perhaps
>could credit the cost of installing an oil cooler?
>Found a 3/4"scallop of liner skirt in the bottom of the pan, probably a
>castaway from a previously thrown rod, along with a 2" diameter magnet that
>looks like a thick washer. It is all chewed up around the edges as if it had
>been tossed around and beat on by the rod caps. Lots of magnetic gravel stuck
>to the bottom of the pan. Somebodies idea of a cruel joke? Also a pea sized
>hunk of solder. The oil pickup screen has a hole on the bottom where it had
>been soldered to the armature. Looks like someone tried to patch it with
>solder and it came loose. Now a hole right at the point of pickup. Ideas?
>Crank end float measures .012. Anyone know where to get oversized thrust
>washers? i am feeling overwhelmed!
>Many thanks in advance.
>Steve P.
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