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Re: [Fot] cooling down a tr3

To: Bill Babcock <Billb@bnj.com>, KENMUN@aol.com
Subject: Re: [Fot] cooling down a tr3
From: Mike Jackson <grandwazoo@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2008 20:02:04 -0400 (GMT-04:00)
I partially disagree.  I have a modern core between original headers.  Glen 
opened a hole below the shelf to allow air to the portion of radiator below and 
did really good shrouding.  The oil cooler is mounted alongside the radiator, 
not in front of it.  With a gutted thermostat and a clean block/head interior 
our TR3 never overheats, even in the Florida heat in the summer.  Maybe some of 
ya'll are producing a bunch more power than we are but the last time I asked 
Glen how much HP our motor was producing he wrote a number on the side of the 
valve cover that was pretty impressive.

Mike

-----Original Message-----
>From: Bill Babcock <Billb@bnj.com>
>Sent: Jun 8, 2008 7:00 PM
>To: KENMUN@aol.com
>Cc: fot@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: [Fot] cooling down a tr3
>
>You need a mo biggah radiator.  There COULD be some other problem,  
>like too much advance or some friction someplace, but basically the  
>stock radiator is for an engine making about 80 HP and rarely using  
>that. A five row core isn't enough. You need as much radiator as you  
>can squeeze in and then you can use either an orifice or a thermostat  
>to control the temp. I've talked about this before, but my cheater TR3  
>made a lot of ponies even with just a nitrided crank. I had a radiator  
>made that mounted using the original mounts (that's what the GCR  
>requires) but filled pretty much the whole nose. You can get an  
>integral oil cooler or not depending on how you feel about that. It's  
>actually a really good thing though, when the car is standing still  
>the water gets hot first and heats the oil, then the oil is cooled by  
>the air over the radiator when the car is moving.
>
>On Jun 8, 2008, at 1:37 PM, KENMUN@aol.com wrote:
>
>> fot, just returned from a frustrating week end at sebring raceway. the
>> racing was on a 1.7 mile course with a lot of time in 2nd/3rd gear  
>> and not many
>> long straights to cool down. the car would run 7/8 laps with the  
>> temp going up
>> on every lap. air temp was 90f+. when the gage was full scale (230f 
>> +) i'd
>> come in. with a 7# cap the water was immediately boiling when i  
>> turned the car
>> off, with a 16# cap when i turned the engine off the hoses blew off.  
>> i've got
>> the original size rad with a modern 5 row core. it's fairly well  
>> sealed so the
>> air has to go thru the rad. the oil cooler is mounted in the grill  
>> opening
>> with  a shroud between it and the rad. in three years of trying this,
>> overheating  remains my top problem. is there any ultimate solution?  
>> thanks for any
>> comments  or advice. ken m tr3 vintage racer
>>
>>
>>
>> **************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking  
>> with
>> Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.
>> (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4? 
>> &NCID=aolfod00030000000002)
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>
>Bill Babcock
>Babcock & Jenkins
>Billb@bnj.com
>503.936.7660
>www.bnj.com
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