I think one good point that Mike made is the opening of the "hole" in the
apron. No matter what media is used for the radiator the stock TR2-3 apron
blocks airflow to the lower third of the radiator. On Randy W's car I cut the
sheet metal in the apron the width of the radiator and angled it down to allow
the air to flow to this lower third. I fabricated triangular metal pieces to
fill the ends and spotwelded them in. The only down side is that it does away
with having the ability to use a handcrank :o( (that's a joke folks). I'm also
surprised nobody has discussed the role that the bypass is playing.
Thanks - Ed -
Bill Babcock <Billb@bnj.com> wrote:
My reply got bounced for being too long.
I don't understand why racers would focus on having a radiator that's
the same size as the one designed for a 80 horsepower street car that
rarely saw full throttle. The GCRs don't require it. Engines generate
heat as a direct result of the horsepower they develop--they are about
35 percent efficient, so if you double the HP you triple the heat
load. Why have a marginal radiator? You get more power, better
component life, and fewer worries if you have a radiator that will
give you an adequate cooling margin. It's a trivial thing to fit and
you never have to pay attention to it again (unless there's something
wrong with your car). You're not reducing wind resistance with a
smaller radiator. I can't think of a single advantage except you
already have it. Radiators are a couple of hundred dollars. A racing
motor costs many thousands.
Just as a wild guess, but I'd expect that neither Kas nor Bob Tullius
or anyone else that seriously raced these cars in the day ever
contemplated using a stock-sized radiator unless the regulations
required them to.
On Jun 8, 2008, at 5:02 PM, Mike Jackson wrote:
> I partially disagree. I have a modern core between original
> headers. Glen opened a hole below the shelf to allow air to the
> portion of radiator below and did really good shrouding. The oil
> cooler is mounted alongside the radiator, not in front of it. With
> a gutted thermostat and a clean block/head interior our TR3 never
> overheats, even in the Florida heat in the summer. Maybe some of
> ya'll are producing a bunch more power than we are but the last time
> I asked Glen how much HP our motor was producing he wrote a number
> on the side of the valve cover that was pretty impressive.
>
> Mike
>
> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Bill Babcock
>> Sent: Jun 8, 2008 7:00 PM
>> To: KENMUN@aol.com
>> Cc: fot@autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Fot] cooling down a tr3
>>
>> You need a mo biggah radiator. There COULD be some other problem,
>> like too much advance or some friction someplace, but basically the
>> stock radiator is for an engine making about 80 HP and rarely using
>> that. A five row core isn't enough. You need as much radiator as you
>> can squeeze in and then you can use either an orifice or a thermostat
>> to control the temp. I've talked about this before, but my cheater
>> TR3
>> made a lot of ponies even with just a nitrided crank. I had a
>> radiator
>> made that mounted using the original mounts (that's what the GCR
>> requires) but filled pretty much the whole nose. You can get an
>> integral oil cooler or not depending on how you feel about that. It's
>> actually a really good thing though, when the car is standing still
>> the water gets hot first and heats the oil, then the oil is cooled by
>> the air over the radiator when the car is moving.
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