The TR-3 cars were assembled with a shim under the right rear spring so that
the right rear was lower and that raised the left front to compensate for the
drivers weight. We had dozens of people complain about their cars sitting with
the left front high and all we had to do was take out he little shim. I used
this in racing my car to adjsut for the various right and left turn tracks.
---- "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu> wrote:
=============
On Tue, 21 Sep 2010, Greg ''Lunker'' Hilyer wrote:
> Here's a urban myth to run by the group. I actually believe it to be true as
> I've run into it more than once.
> They were set-up that way to compensate for LHD on crowned roads. RHD would
> have the corresponding difference on the other side.
> Thoughts?
I have no idea if this is UM, but I do know that a good alignment person
can fine-tune your aligment for your driving style. If thrust angle is
within spec, you can tweak the toe to get the car to react to the crown of
the road aka, to track straighter with less steering input depening on
the type of driving that you describe to the tech.
Now, I honesty doubt that Triumph or any manufacturer would dial in _3/8"_
of twist to a frame. I'd be willing to bet that the frame specs are +/-
1/8" or less.
My personal take on the question would be - get the frame square and
plumb. You cannot go wrong with a solid baseline. Put another way, look at
how much difference 1/16" of toe change can produce. You can turn a car
from a PIG to a GEM with a small ajustment like that. 3/8 is a LOT of
alignment to make up for with shims and so forth, especially if you start
stacking tolerances (like bent suspension bits and so-forth) - a common
problem for 50 year old cars. And twist will totally screw up your corner
weights or your attempts to accomodate them.
Just my humble opiion, of course.
regards,
rml
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