Gentlemen, re: the lip seal story : I finally opted for the Greg Solows
Chrysler seal conversion with the machined original seal holder to accept
this split seal. The diameter of the crank remains the same as stock, simply
the grooves on the crank are weld filled and polished to make a flat surface
for the seal.
duly centralised (see pix) with AREs tool (added gasket paper total 1mm
thick to make for the machined new ID of holder) and holder pressed together
with specially made tool.
Will let you know how it works when engine will be running.
Cheers!
Alex
De : Alexandre Camoletti [mailto:ac@camoletti.ch]
Envoyi : mardi 12 octobre 2010 08:38
@ : 'J.C. Hassall'; adcronin@mi.rr.com
Cc : fot@autox.team.net
Objet : RE: [Fot] Crank--Rear Main / Scroll
Hi Jim ! Called yesterday this seal specialised company in Geneva, but split
lip seals are not used in the industry sot hey could not help.
But they provided an interesting info: lip compression on the shaft must be
max 10 to 12 10th of mm (1.0 to 1.2 mm). Depending on the manufacturer, but
all are within this range the engineer explained.
This means that for a shaft at 63.5, seal with the uncompressed lip must be
62.5 max ID (range 62.3-62.5).
If with this seal of 62.5 free ID the shaft is bigger than 63.5 or 63.7 OD
max, then the lip will not seat on the shaft as designed and the oil film in
between will not work and make the seal. Leaks.
Yesterday I measured the Moss seal lip when assembled and it measures
exactly at 62.5. So this is correct for a 63.5 axle.
But we have to be aware that lip seals are designed to withstand a pressure
of 0.5 bar usually. Not much. So important to relieve oil pressure on the
seal by drilling the recommended holes. Maybe fit an oil splash control
washer if possible?
So I will go for the 63.6 journal grind (this is the up tolerance leaflet
mentions) and drill the two 10mm additional holes. Maybe shorten the spring
slightly.
Cheers!
Alexandre
De : J.C. Hassall [mailto:jhassall@blacksburg.net]
Envoyi : mardi 12 octobre 2010 02:45
@ : Alexandre Camoletti
Objet : Re: [Fot] Crank--Rear Main / Scroll now MURPHY'S TOOL
On 10/11/2010 3:26 AM, Alexandre Camoletti wrote:
Thank you Jim ! Keep us posted !
We have a specialised company here in Geneva for industry lip seals and
bearings, interesting to see what they advise. I will certainly replace the
seal provided with the kit, as it looks dubious quality (no markings, no
brand), with one from a reputable company, possibly made from Viton or some
modern material, and with double lip.
Will keep the FOT posted on my findings.
Cheers!
Alex
Good luck Alex, and by all means please keep us posted. If there's a better
seal out there, your discovery will be welcome by all of us who got burned.
thanks,
jim
De : J.C. Hassall [mailto:jhassall@blacksburg.net]
Envoyi : samedi 9 octobre 2010 04:17
@ : Alexandre Camoletti
Cc : fot@autox.team.net
Objet : Re: [Fot] Crank--Rear Main / Scroll now MURPHY'S TOOL
On 10/6/2010 2:17 AM, Alexandre Camoletti wrote:
Question: All of you who got leaks with the 2.5'' grind drilled the
additional holes as per Moss'/Bastuck's damn instructions?
They propose/suggest to drill 2 additional holes 3/8'' to relieve pressure,
each side of the original hole in the main cap.
See drawing
Alex
Yup, I had mine drilled the same way. And I have a reasonably good block
vent system, although I may go to an extractor system like Joe A recommends
if this go-around with the seal doesn't fix it. If I were smart I'd trash
the crank and start over, but....
jim
--
Jim Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
99% finished, 90% to go
--
Jim Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
99% finished, 90% to go
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