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Re: [Fot] advice required

To: "'Richard Jacob'" <jacobr3151@yahoo.com>, <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] advice required
From: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2012 10:45:29 -0800
> I have a TR4 which I am redoing.

Is this a restoration, "driver", or race car?

> my car has lever rear shocks, how can I tell if these require to be
> reconditioned?

One clue is if they are oily outside, or low on oil.  A leak at the shaft
indicates a rebuild.  You can also clamp the shock upright by the ears (not
the body) in a vise and move the lever throughout its range.  After a few
cycles, you should feel strong, smooth resistance to movement throughout the
stroke.  If there are places that are harder or easier, or the lever moves
easily, the shock needs attention.  My opinion, you should plan on removing
the top and operating valve (plug on the side), cleaning as best you can
without disassembling, and filling with fresh oil before doing this test.

> what
> type/brand name oil can I use for these shocks?

Many LBC vendors sell "Armstrong shock oil".  Personally, I use motorcycle
fork oil (don't recall the brand) which is available in a variety of grades
for more or less damping effort.  Original was about 20 weight, I use 30
weight in my "driver".  Had to find a "Harley" shop to get 30 weight as most
modern bikes use much thinner oil.

> what  should I think about
> replacing as per seals/bearing etc, since the rear end assembly is now
> out of the car?

Look at the gear teeth, if you can see any metal worn away (rather than just
shiny spots), or if the faces are at all rough, pitted, grooved, etc. then
it needs a total overhaul with a new gear set.  I failed to take my own
advice recently, and the howl is really unpleasant.

Turn each shaft by hand.  Some resistance is OK, but it must be perfectly
smooth.  Any roughness or tight spots again indicates a rebuild.

If that all looks good, I would replace the inner seals at each wheel, and
the pinion (input) shaft seal, as a matter of course.  Don't forget to check
and adjust the end play after installing both axles.

Definitely replace the oil!

For restoration or a "driver", I recommend Valvoline 75W90 full synthetic
gear oil in the diff.  No doubt others are good too, but I ran the SynPower
for many years (and miles) in my TR3A and it worked very well, IMO.  (I wish
now I hadn't sold that axle, it was a lot better than the one I just put in
the TR3)  I'm not a racer (yet), so I'll let others comment on what they use
in their race cars.

> #3 I am replacing front coils any suggestions with
> regards to
> what front shocks I should be using?

That depends a great deal on the answer to what you are building (and what
springs you are using).  For a restoration or driver, the stock shocks from
the usual suspects (Moss, TRF, VB) should do fine.  I tried some Spax
adjustable and I'm not happy with them at the moment as I haven't (as yet)
been able to get them adjusted to match.

-- Randall 
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