Problem solved. It was the master cylinder. Pedal holds firm at a stop. I
might need to re-bleed later since I'm using silicone fluif but it is
roadworthy once again.
On Oct 28, 2012, at 1:28 PM, John Styduhar <johnstydo@gmail.com> wrote:
> It may not be the one-way booster valve but something inside the booster,
such as a seal or O-ring.
>
> On Sat, Oct 27, 2012 at 8:06 PM, Sam <trdoctor@aol.com> wrote:
> No. That has never been my experience. The idle does not change with the
foot on or off the pedal.
> Sam
>
> On Oct 27, 2012, at 5:38 PM, John Styduhar <johnstydo@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Did you check the brake vacuum boster for air leaks in that unit.? That
would cause the pedal to drop.
>>
>> On Sat, Oct 27, 2012 at 6:14 PM, Sam <trdoctor@aol.com> wrote:
>> Good day to all,
>> I recently have had problems with my brake system on my '72 TR6. The car
>> would stop just fine but, when waiting at a light, the pedal would go to
the
>> floor. Without any external leaks, in my experience, that lead to a
>> replacement of the brake master. I procured one from Apple Hydraulics
>> (without the reservoir (sp)), cleaned the existing reservoir with brake
>> cleaner safe for plastics, and installed it after bench bleeding without
any
>> problems. At the same time I was going to change the flexible brake lines
out
>> with braided stainless hoses. I changed these lines in ~'95 when I got
the
>> car so I figured I'd change them and it would be a nice upgrade. Long
story
>> short, they don't fit. I tried to change the LF and the threaded portion
of
>> the hose that attaches to the ridged line at the caliper won't reach.
Anyone
>> else had this problem? I really don't like to try to bend old line
especially
>> since the rubber ones fit just fine. I ended up taking a real good look
at
>> the rubber hoses and there were on cracks and they were still flexible so
I
>> put it back together and am ready to bleed the system.
>> TIA,
>> _______________________________________________
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>>
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