Great advice - I was hoping there was an alternative to a solid center clutch.
The close ratio gear set yields a really tall first gear, and a little give
(i.e., sprung disc) would seem to be easier on the drivetrain overall.
Sent from my mobile device
On Jul 28, 2013, at 10:49 AM, jkhagen@charter.net wrote:
> We have found a one person shop in North Branch Mn--"The Clutch Doctor"--he
can build most anything. We us a"One Piece" disc--no rivets-no 'Marcel" with
ceramic buttons. Don't need "Marcel" in the fins for smooth takoffs--ie
street. Ceramic buttons run cooler and can take more oil. Must use steel
insert if using aluminum flywheel. Sprung center section is advised for road
racing--ie not solid disc.
> I used to build my our clutches when I worked for a clutch manufacturer.
We built 100M units per year. I used to give clinics on clutches---sooo
Questions 763-684-1617. John Hagen TR-4 - TVR Grantura
> Clutch Doctors' name is Trevor @ 651-674-4175
>
> On Fri, Jul 26, 2013 at 9:35 PM, Scott Janzen wrote:
>
>> I ran the Schenley Park GP in Pittsburgh this past weekend - a fantastic
>> event, racing on city streets- I'll be back.
>> It is, however, hard on the car, and once again I've found the weak link.
>> The clutch disc center basically ripped out - the metal around only one of
>> three rivets was still intact.
>> So, it's a stock disc and pressure plate, never given trouble before,
probably
>> on its 3rd-4th season. Should I just replace it, or is there an easily
>> adaptable upgrade that's stronger?
>>
>> It's an 8-1/2" disc, 23 spline - the car has a TR4-6 gearbox in it (the
GT6
>> box was the old weak link) and a good aluminum flywheel I got from Ted
that
>> I'd hate to give up on.
>>
>> What is being used out there - given that I have a TR4-6 box with the
>> cross-shaft/fork arrangement, I'm guessing whatever you TR4 racers have
done
>> might work too.
>>
>> Scott
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