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Re: [Fot] TR3 front end conversion to TR6 parts: Camber - moving the bal

To: "'John Hasty'" <jhasty@mhc-law.com>, "'John Styduhar'" <johnstydo@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR3 front end conversion to TR6 parts: Camber - moving the ball joint inward
From: Jack Brooks <JIBrooks@Live.com>
Date: Sun, 22 May 2016 22:45:06 -0700
Cc: 'Triumph 'Friends of Triumph' <fot@autox.team.net>
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John H.,

 

Yes.  Bump steer adjusting is something I am happy to finally be able to do.
There will be a lot of learning going on this summer.

 

Jack

 

From: John Hasty [mailto:jhasty@mhc-law.com] 
Sent: Sunday, May 22, 2016 10:24 AM
To: John Styduhar <johnstydo@gmail.com>
Cc: Jack Brooks <JIBrooks@live.com>; Triumph 'Friends of Triumph
<fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR3 front end conversion to TR6 parts: Camber - moving
the ball joint inward

 

You're also going to have bump steer adjustments to make

Sent from my iPhone


On May 22, 2016, at 6:56 AM, "John Styduhar" <johnstydo@gmail.com

Jack, if you are going to do this conversion you will also need to acquire
the later model lower control arms (or modify your lower control arms if
possible) because the trunnion assembly for a TR6 uses a thru bolt and not
the shaft type on the earlier TRs.  You will also need to retrofit the inner
lower control arm bushings from the later model onto the TR3 mounting
points. Everything will bolt together. 

 

On Sat, May 21, 2016 at 1:34 AM, Jack Brooks <JIBrooks@live.com

I am hoping to upgrade the front suspension on my (street/AutoX) TR3 this
summer by changing out the upper A-arm, vertical link and trunnion to TR6
parts.  I will use "the" Jag ball joint and shim it as required.  Due to the
complexity of shortening the upper A-arm or moving the inner pivot point
inward, I am considering welding an extension to the upper A-Arm ball joint
mounting tabs on the inside to mount the ball joint further inward and
produce a similar result to shortening the A-arm.  I have not removed my TR3
A-Arms yet, but it appears there is room to move the ball joint inward at
least an inch in this way.  I know I can't go as far as those of you who
have shortened the upper arms, but it seems like it could be a decent
compromise.  I am concerned though, as this seems too easy.  None of you
guys have done it. Instead you have shortening the upper arms which, from
what I have read, is challenging, as is moving the inner pivot point and
retaining substantial structure.

 

So, the question is. . . . . . . Why is simply moving the ball joint further
inboard not a good solution?  What am I missing?

Thanks in advance,

 

Jack


_______________________________________________

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_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhasty@mhc-law.com

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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-US link=3Dblue =
vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>John H.,<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#1F497D'>Yes.&nbsp; Bump steer =
adjusting is something I am happy to finally be able to do.&nbsp; There =
will be a lot of learning going on this summer.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>Jack<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>From:</span><=
/b><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'> =
John Hasty [mailto:jhasty@mhc-law.com] <br><b>Sent:</b> Sunday, May 22, =
2016 10:24 AM<br><b>To:</b> John Styduhar =
&lt;johnstydo@gmail.com&gt;<br><b>Cc:</b> Jack Brooks =
&lt;JIBrooks@live.com&gt;; Triumph 'Friends of Triumph =
&lt;fot@autox.team.net&gt;<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Fot] TR3 front end =
conversion to TR6 parts: Camber - moving the ball joint =
inward<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>You're =
also going to have bump steer adjustments to make<br><br>Sent from my =
iPhone<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'><br>On May 22, 2016, at 6:56 AM, =
&quot;John Styduhar&quot; &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:johnstydo@gmail.com";>johnstydo@gmail.com</a>&gt; =
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p></div><blockquote =
style=3D'margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><div><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Jack, if you are going to do this conversion you will =
also need to acquire the later model lower control arms (or modify your =
lower control arms if possible) because the trunnion assembly for a TR6 =
uses a thru bolt and not the shaft type on the earlier TRs.&nbsp; You =
will also need to retrofit the inner lower control arm bushings from the =
later model onto the TR3 mounting points. Everything will bolt =
together.&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p></div></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>On Sat, =
May 21, 2016 at 1:34 AM, Jack Brooks &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:JIBrooks@live.com"; =
target=3D"_blank">JIBrooks@live.com</a>&gt; =
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p><blockquote style=3D'border:none;border-left:solid =
#CCCCCC 1.0pt;padding:0in 0in 0in =
6.0pt;margin-left:4.8pt;margin-top:5.0pt;margin-right:0in;margin-bottom:5=
.0pt'><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>I am hoping =
to upgrade the front suspension on my (street/AutoX) TR3 this summer by =
changing out the upper A-arm, vertical link and trunnion to TR6 =
parts.&nbsp; I will use &#8220;the&#8221; Jag ball joint and shim it as =
required.&nbsp; Due to the complexity of shortening the upper A-arm or =
moving the inner pivot point inward, I am considering welding an =
extension to the upper A-Arm ball joint mounting tabs on the inside to =
mount the ball joint further inward and produce a similar result to =
shortening the A-arm.&nbsp; I have not removed my TR3 A-Arms yet, but it =
appears there is room to move the ball joint inward at least an inch in =
this way.&nbsp; I know I can&#8217;t go as far as those of you who have =
shortened the upper arms, but it seems like it could be a decent =
compromise.&nbsp; I am concerned though, as this seems too easy.&nbsp; =
None of you guys have done it. Instead you have shortening the upper =
arms which, from what I have read, is challenging, as is moving the =
inner pivot point and retaining substantial structure.<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>&nbsp;<o:p><=
/o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;margin-bottom:12.0pt'>So, the question =
is. . . . . . . Why is simply moving the ball joint further inboard not =
a good solution?&nbsp; What am I missing?<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>Thanks in =
advance,<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
style=3D'color:#888888'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
style=3D'color:#888888'>Jack<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'><br>______________________________________=
_________<br><a =
href=3D"mailto:fot@autox.team.net";>fot@autox.team.net</a><br><br><a =
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il.com</a><br><br><o:p></o:p></p></blockquote></div><p =
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