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I also followed Uncle Jack's advice. It seemed to calm the engine
vibration at higher revs (6000+) in addition to the cast alloy sump. I'm
running a stock crank nitrided. Use ARP main studs.
.
On Sat, Nov 23, 2019 at 6:43 AM Phil Gott via Fot <fot@autox.team.net>
wrote:
> Thanks again, Tony:
> The one we have, built by the late Bill Throop, in addition to
> reinforcing the cap itself, has the block machined internally to accept t=
he
> sides of a strap, then the strap is cross bolted from the sides, through
> the block from outside. I=E2=80=99m wondering if this is a bit of overki=
ll. Based
> on your recommendation, it seems to be.
> Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine
> today for other work.
> Phil
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com> wrote:
>
> =EF=BB=BF
>
> I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick. Here's what he wrote about
> that (on my engine building tips page):
>
> "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end.
> To do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces fo=
r
> the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge
> the holes in the strap and you must use longer bolts. Some builders fe=
el
> that this is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have
> never had a main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is
> something that happens more frequently than you would expect."
> Regards, Tony Drews
>
> On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote:
>
> Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the T=
R wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted=
underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3=
factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (=
.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of=
these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: =
None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the cente=
r.
> Curious as to the need for the extra support.
> Thanks,
> Phil Gott
> 114 TR4A
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> _______________________________________________fot@autox.team.net
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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ews.com
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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small">I a=
lso followed Uncle Jack's advice.=C2=A0 It seemed to calm the engine vi=
bration at higher revs (6000+) in addition to the cast alloy sump. I'm =
running a stock crank nitrided. Use ARP main studs.=C2=A0=C2=A0</div><div c=
lass=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small">.=C2=A0=C2=A0</div></div><=
br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sat,=
Nov 23, 2019 at 6:43 AM Phil Gott via Fot <<a href=3D"mailto:fot@autox.=
team.net" target=3D"_blank">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blo=
ckquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left=
:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"auto">Thanks agai=
n, Tony:<div>The one we have, built by the late Bill =C2=A0Throop, in addit=
ion to reinforcing the cap itself, has the block machined internally to acc=
ept the sides of a strap, then the strap =C2=A0is cross bolted from the sid=
es, through the block from outside.=C2=A0 I=E2=80=99m wondering if this is =
a bit of overkill. Based on your recommendation, it seems to be.</div><div>=
Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine to=
day for other work.</div><div>Phil<br><br><div dir=3D"ltr">Sent from my iPh=
one</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br><blockquote type=3D"cite">On Nov 22, 2019, at=
10:56 PM, Tony Drews <<a href=3D"mailto:tony@tonydrews.com"; target=3D"_=
blank">tony@tonydrews.com</a>> wrote:<br><br></blockquote></div><blockqu=
ote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF
=20
=20
=20
=20
<p>I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick.=C2=A0 Here's what =
he
wrote about that (on my engine building tips page):</p>
<p><span style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Tahoma,Helvetica,Arial,s=
ans-serif;font-size:medium;font-style:normal;font-variant-ligatures:normal;=
font-variant-caps:normal;font-weight:400;letter-spacing:normal;text-align:l=
eft;text-indent:0px;text-transform:none;white-space:normal;word-spacing:0px=
;background-color:rgb(255,255,255);text-decoration-style:initial;text-decor=
ation-color:initial;float:none;display:inline">"I also like
to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end.=C2=A0 T=
o
do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the
surfaces for the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400
block. You must enlarge the holes in the strap=C2=A0 and you must u=
se
longer bolts.=C2=A0 Some=C2=A0 builders feel that this is totally
unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have never had a
main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is
something that happens more frequently than you would expect."=
</span></p>
<div>Regards, Tony Drews<br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via
Fot wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
<pre>Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main=
on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cro=
ss-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Ju=
st took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about =
.002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains=
.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engin=
e. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at =
the center.
Curious as to the need for the extra support.
Thanks,
Phil Gott
114 TR4A
Sent from my iPhone
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</pre>
</blockquote>
=20
</div></blockquote></div></div>____________________________________________=
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</blockquote></div>
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