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Re: [Fot] TR6 Harmonic Dampener

To: Robert Lang <robertlangtr6@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 Harmonic Dampener
From: Mike Harmuth via Fot <fot@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2025 09:23:29 -0400
Cc: "fot@autox.team.net" <fot@autox.team.net>
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: fot@autox.team.net
References: <1533351811.185448.1758718605121.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1533351811.185448.1758718605121@mail.yahoo.com>
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Bob, would raising the front of the engine up help with the clearance? I
have 4 alignment shims (roughly 1/4") under the motor mounts on my spit to
give me clearance for the larger diameter header. Quick, cheap and still
technically all Triumph.

mike h

On Wed, Sep 24, 2025 at 9:11=E2=80=AFAM Robert Lang via Fot <fot@autox.team=
.net>
wrote:

> Hi,
>
> After I got my frame straightened last year, I've noticed that the
> clearance between the ATI harmonic dampener and the front cross member an=
d
> the steering rack seems tighter than what I previously had. Granted how
> much metal had been bent in the crash, I'm not surprised.
>
> So, I have a question for the hive - to compensate, I plan to push the
> engine back a tad, maybe 1/4" or so using the "usual method" of installin=
g
> a metal plate in the engine mount to frame interface. The question: in
> moving the engine back in small increments, will I have to "shorten" the
> driveshaft or is the driveshaft length (stock driveshaft and stock 4-spee=
d
> TR6 transmission) already able to compensate for moving the engine back.
>
> I'm not planning to go wild and make the car "mid-engined". I'm just
> looking to compensate for some "rearranged metal" in the front of the car=
.
> That and I also had to switch back to "stock" rubber motor mounts as
> opposed to the HD units that TRF used to sell. Else, if there's a source
> for stiffer stock-type TR6 engine mounts, I'm all ears. The softer stock
> units allow a LOT of motion in both axis of motion.
>
> After two broken cranks this season and reviewing my in-car vids, it look=
s
> like I'm not abusing the self-imposed redline of 6000 except occasional
> hell-toe blips on downshifts (Hi Christian!!) that I need to smooth out.
> But I think the crank is hitting the frame while spinning and that's addi=
ng
> more stress to the snout of the crank.
>
> TIA
>
> Bob Lang
> 339 927 4489
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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<div dir=3D"ltr">Bob, would raising the front of the engine up help with th=
e clearance? I have 4 alignment shims (roughly 1/4&quot;) under the motor m=
ounts on my spit to give me clearance for the larger diameter header. Quick=
, cheap and still technically=C2=A0all Triumph.<div><br></div><div>mike h</=
div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote gmail_quote_container"><div dir=3D"=
ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Wed, Sep 24, 2025 at 9:11=E2=80=AFAM Robert La=
ng via Fot &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:fot@autox.team.net";>fot@autox.team.net</a>=
&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px =
0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div=
><div style=3D"font-family:&quot;Helvetica Neue&quot;,Helvetica,Arial,sans-=
serif;font-size:13px"><div dir=3D"ltr">Hi,</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div>=
<div dir=3D"ltr">After I got my frame straightened last year, I&#39;ve noti=
ced that the clearance between the ATI harmonic dampener and the front cros=
s member and the steering rack seems tighter than what I previously had. Gr=
anted how much metal had been bent in the crash, I&#39;m not surprised.</di=
v><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">So, I have a question for the=
 hive - to compensate, I plan to push the engine back a tad, maybe 1/4&quot=
; or so using the &quot;usual method&quot; of installing a metal plate in t=
he engine mount to frame interface. The question: in moving the engine back=
 in small increments, will I have to &quot;shorten&quot; the driveshaft or =
is the driveshaft length (stock driveshaft and stock 4-speed TR6 transmissi=
on) already able to compensate for moving the engine back.</div><div dir=3D=
"ltr"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">I&#39;m not planning to go wild and make t=
he car &quot;mid-engined&quot;. I&#39;m just looking to compensate for some=
 &quot;rearranged metal&quot; in the front of the car. That and I also had =
to switch back to &quot;stock&quot; rubber motor mounts as opposed to the H=
D units that TRF used to sell. Else, if there&#39;s a source for stiffer st=
ock-type TR6 engine mounts, I&#39;m all ears. The softer stock units allow =
a LOT of motion in both axis of motion.</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><di=
v dir=3D"ltr">After two broken cranks this season and reviewing my in-car v=
ids, it looks like I&#39;m not abusing the self-imposed redline of 6000 exc=
ept occasional hell-toe blips on downshifts (Hi Christian!!) that I need to=
 smooth out. But I think the crank is hitting the frame while spinning and =
that&#39;s adding more stress to the snout of the crank.</div><div dir=3D"l=
tr"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">TIA</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div dir=
=3D"ltr">Bob Lang</div><div dir=3D"ltr">339 927 4489</div></div></div>_____=
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<br>
</blockquote></div>

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