I've had something very much like it... I bought it from TiP. It
appears to have exactly the same mask and hose arrangment, and the box
looks similar but mine is painted blue...
I like it very much. I bought it originally for my wood shop. It
prevents me from breathing any fumes from sawdust (I seem to have an
alergic reaction to some of the exotic timber I use for my furniture
making hobby).... Anyway, I also have used it for whenever I'm doing
something "nasty" in the garage.
Only problem?... I'd like to buy a spare hose (40') and I'd like a spare
half-face mask too... But the price!!!!... These guys charge like
wounded bulls for their accessories!
Anyone found a better supplier in terms of cost?.....
Thanks
-Skip-
"John A. Vrugtman" wrote:
>
> MOWOGMAN@aol.com wrote:
>
> > I know no one asked , but here goes anyway!
> > I have finally used the Hobbyair 1F breathing system I recently purchased
>for
> > painting nasty Isocynide paints. In a word my review is: Awesome!
>
> Just to add my .02, I've used one for a year now and am very happy with it,
> particularly in the summer as it defogs your glasses while keeping your lungs
> safe.
>
> John
> BJ8
> 56 F100
> Norton
From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 1 Jun 2000 07:31:22 EDT
Subject: Brake master
Hi listers!
I am restoring my '67 BJ8 and I am up to brake lines. I do not think that my
booster will be easily serviced since it has some corrosion on the inner bore.
Just as well since I don't really want it in there anyhow. The stock master
cyl. is 7/8 inch bore from what I measured. My idea is to use a 1.125 inch
bore master cylinder(Tilton) by itself and then I should not need a booster.
Any thoughts or similar ideas? TIA
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 01 Jun 2000 08:34:45 -0400
Subject: Re: Brake master
Csooch1@aol.com wrote:
> Hi listers!
> I am restoring my '67 BJ8 and I am up to brake lines. I do not think that my
>booster will be easily serviced since it has some corrosion on the inner bore.
> Just as well since I don't really want it in there anyhow. The stock master
>cyl. is 7/8 inch bore from what I measured. My idea is to use a 1.125 inch
>bore master cylinder(Tilton) by itself and then I should not need a booster.
>Any thoughts or similar ideas? TIA
> Cheers,
> Chris
> BJ8
> XJ6
Hi Chris,
I think you will run into trouble with this approach. Increasing the diameter
of the cylinder from 7/8 to 1 1/8 will increase the working area from 0.60132
to 0.99402 square inches, a 65% increase in area. This means that you will need
to increase the pedal pressure by 65% to achieve the same braking effect if you
leave the servo in place.
>From memory the pressure multiplication factor on the Healey's Girling servo
>unit is around 1.5 to 1 so if you remove the servo you will require an
>additional 50% pedal pressure to achieve the same braking force. We are now up
>to a total of 2.48 times the original pedal force to achieve the same braking
>force.
I recall someone telling me that it takes 10 miles to stop a super tanker from
full speed. You might announce your intentions to go for that record.....
Stick with a servo. INHO MkIII Healeys need one.
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 01 Jun 2000 07:50:00 -0500
Subject: Re: Brake master
Chris:
The larger the bore of the master cylinder, the more difficult it is to
press the brake pedal. You are giving up your hydraulic leverage over the
slave cylinder. In addition, your pedal travel will be reduced, likely
giving you less feel for the brakes. A larger bore would be a reason for a
bigger booster.
Best regards,
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
My idea is to use a 1.125 inch bore master cylinder(Tilton) by itself and
then I should not need a booster. Any thoughts or similar ideas? TIA
>Cheers,
>Chris
>BJ8
>XJ6
>
From Peter Brauen <pbrauen at telepak.net>
Date: Thu, 01 Jun 2000 08:00:12 -0500
Subject: Re: Brake master
Hey Chris, I'm affraid you have it backwards. You should use a 5/8 master
cylinder (the very same one as the clutch) in order to reduce pedal effort
for the brakes. The 5/8 cylinder is actually much cheaper than the 7/8
cylinder too!---Peter (BMC Restorations)
PS- Apple hydraulics can rebuild boosters even if they require all five
sleeves replaced.
-----Original Message-----
From: Csooch1@aol.com <Csooch1@aol.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, June 01, 2000 6:48 AM
Subject: Brake master
Hi listers!
I am restoring my '67 BJ8 and I am up to brake lines. I do not think
that my booster will be easily serviced since it has some corrosion on the
inner bore. Just as well since I don't really want it in there anyhow. The
stock master cyl. is 7/8 inch bore from what I measured. My idea is to use
a 1.125 inch bore master cylinder(Tilton) by itself and then I should not
need a booster. Any thoughts or similar ideas? TIA
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
From cstinehelfer at bajamarine.com
Date: Thu, 1 Jun 2000 09:13:31 -0400
Subject: Re: Brake master
In response to some of the list responses, you will lose your force needed
when removing the booster. However, you can make up most or all of this by
repositioning the leverage point on the brake "linkage" We have improved
braking on vehicles by doing this to the point that one wonders why
boosters were thought up in the first place........
My $2 worth (inflation.......)
Chris Stinehelfer
Hi listers!
I am restoring my '67 BJ8 and I am up to brake lines. I do not think that
my booster will be easily serviced since it has some corrosion on the inner
bore. Just as well since I don't really want it in there anyhow. The
stock master cyl. is 7/8 inch bore from what I measured. My idea is to
use a 1.125 inch bore master cylinder(Tilton) by itself and then I should
not need a booster. Any thoughts or similar ideas? TIA
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 08:44:45 -0400
Subject: Free Used brake part
Hi Gang! I'm back after having to re-format my hard drive and send my
computer back to Compaq for service as a result of contacting the LOVE BUG
virus.
Now to the subject: I have an old brake cylinder (front disk brake type)
from my BN7 that I do not need. It is not serviceable as is but should be
repairable. I'll give it to anyone who wants it and is willing to pay
shipping fee.
Don
BN7
Morganfield, Ky
From Kit Henry <khenry at hmcltd.net>
Date: Thu, 01 Jun 2000 09:57:01 -0400
Subject: Wire Wheel Truing
It appears I may need to have my wire wheels retrued and balanced. Does
anyone know of a shop in the Northern Ohio area that does this type of
work ?
--
Kit Henry
Henry MotorSports Inc.
419-483-5064
http://www.henrymotorsports.com
E-Mail: khenry@hmcltd.net
From ccruz at tribune.com
Date: Thu, 1 Jun 2000 10:36:00 -0500
Subject: Like a spitting camel...LONG
Good morning listers,
I have a couple questions that I'm hoping someone can help me with.
We had monsoon-like conditions this past weekend at the British Car
Festival in Champaign, Illinois. Needless to say tops and side
curtains were in order most of the weekend.
For reference, I have a 1960 BN7 and fortunately haven't had to use
the top or curtains that often.
Regarding the top: The bow in the top (where the top meets the
windshield) is curved upwards. When fastened in place the ends rest
nicely on the chrome trim piece at the top of the windshield for about
the first 4-5 inches. From there the curve in the top bow creates a
gap of about .5" between the top the chrome trim on the windshield. The
gap causes the car to spit at me while driving in the pouring rain with
the top up. I can obvious plug the gap with an additional foam weather
strip but would like to know how to properly seat the top.
My top (don't know if they're all the same) has a small lip that
appears as though it wraps around the lip in the chrome trim at the
top of the windshield. When attached in this manner, the bow in the
top forces the top to pull up on the chrome trim piece, exposing the
rubber seal underneath and causing an unnatural bow in the chrome
trim. Any suggestions or thoughts?
Regarding the side curtains: Last year I replaced the rubber seals
that surround the side curtains. This past weekend was the first time
I had to use them while driving since the new seals were installed.
They failed miserably while driving at highway speeds. The main
difference between the old and new seals is the width of the front
seal that meets the windshield post.
The old seal was about 1.5" - 1.75" wide which easy slid behind
(inside) the post. This helped to keep the curtain angled up and
inward against the car and top while driving. Unfortunately I don't
have the old rubber seals anymore.
The new seals are about .5" wide and sits flush with the post.
During highway driving conditions the side curtains are forced
outward way from the top, creating a gap and subsequently a waterfall
in the car. Can someone tell me how wide the front seal should be and
a good source for finding them?
Thank you in advance for your time.
Best regards,
Carlos Cruz
1st Place in Class with at wet '60 BN7.
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Thu, 01 Jun 2000 10:39:02 -0700
Subject: Re: Product review: HobbyAir breathing system
I don't know about your air supplies, but I use a fairly large Wagner
CapSpray turbine for both breathing and painting supplies
simultaneously. Its connections are ordinary garden hose thread type,
and I use drinking water quality garden hose for extensions when I
need them, and a "V" type splitter with valves to divide the flow
between breathing and spray gun. (just don't step on your air hose
when painting; it isn't as rigid as the real ones) You might get
lucky and have the same threads on your setups. If so Home Depot's
garden supply shop can help you.
-Roland
On Thu, 01 Jun 2000 07:27:54 -0400, John Vrugtman wrote:
::
:: I've had something very much like it... I bought it from TiP. It
:: appears to have exactly the same mask and hose arrangment, and the box
:: looks similar but mine is painted blue...
::
:: I like it very much. I bought it originally for my wood shop. It
:: prevents me from breathing any fumes from sawdust (I seem to have an
:: alergic reaction to some of the exotic timber I use for my furniture
:: making hobby).... Anyway, I also have used it for whenever I'm doing
:: something "nasty" in the garage.
::
:: Only problem?... I'd like to buy a spare hose (40') and I'd like a spare
:: half-face mask too... But the price!!!!... These guys charge like
:: wounded bulls for their accessories!
::
:: Anyone found a better supplier in terms of cost?.....
::
:: Thanks
:: -Skip-
::
::
:: "John A. Vrugtman" wrote:
:: >
:: > MOWOGMAN@aol.com wrote:
:: >
:: > > I know no one asked , but here goes anyway!
:: > > I have finally used the Hobbyair 1F breathing system I recently
:purchased for
:: > > painting nasty Isocynide paints. In a word my review is: Awesome!
:: >
:: > Just to add my .02, I've used one for a year now and am very happy with it,
:: > particularly in the summer as it defogs your glasses while keeping your
:lungs
:: > safe.
:: >
:: > John
:: > BJ8
:: > 56 F100
:: > Norton
::
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Thu, 01 Jun 2000 11:24:55 -0700
Subject: Q on BJ7 tonneau cover snap arrangement
I am fitting a new Moss tonneau cover to my BJ7. Most of the Lift a
dot and Tenax hardware is included, but a couple of reinforcing metal
grommets are not.
There is a Tenax stud just behind the door shut pillars, and two
pieces of the tonneau cover are to be held in place by this -- one
comes to the stud from the rear and the other from the front, sealing
over the top of the doors. Evidently this two piece arrangement is to
make it easier to furl the cover behind the front seats without a big
fold at this point.
My old cover, which may well be the original, has a brass reinforcing
grommet on the piece that lies underneath the other (and the Tenax
fastener on the one above it). Should I just find a cooperative sail
or awning maker and have a new brass grommet installed on the new
cover, or am I missing something? The grommet would have to be large
enough to allow the Tenax fastener to grab the stud through it, I
guess. There is some tension required to hold both flaps in place, so
just an unreinforced hole would stretch and pull with a little use.
-Roland
From "Don Gschwind" <dgschwind at prodigy.net>
Date: Thu, 1 Jun 2000 14:37:13 -0400
Subject: Noises at Carbs
Hi, Listers
Please help me with a little info regarding pulsing noises at
the carbs of my BJ8.
Last night I finished rewiring the complete car, and much to
my surprise, everything worked properly! I have had a "dead" heater
blower, so as I was removing the hot wire to the blower, I heard this
soft "ticking" sound under the hood. The ignition was on, the fuel
pump had quit "clicking" and this noise occurred. Originally I thought
it was from the "Control Box", but it was from the left side of the
engine. I disconnected the wire to the fuel pump, and the noise went
away. (It did "click" a few more times, then silent.)
What am I hearing, and should I be worried? I've never noticed
it before. Should I not try to start the engine until diagnosed and/or
corrected? Please respond, as warm weather is here and I'm just
getting it ready to drive. Thanks,
DON
BJ8 Pandora
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Thu, 01 Jun 2000 11:52:39 -0700
Subject: Re: Product review: HobbyAir breathing system
I'd be leery of using ordinary garden hose for breathing air. Some of them
give off some noxious plastic odors that doubtful are good for you. Maybe a
natural rubber hose.
---------------------
At 10:39 AM 6/1/00 , you wrote:
>I don't know about your air supplies, but I use a fairly large Wagner
>CapSpray turbine for both breathing and painting supplies
>simultaneously. Its connections are ordinary garden hose thread type,
>and I use drinking water quality garden hose for extensions when I
>need them, and a "V" type splitter with valves to divide the flow
>between breathing and spray gun. (just don't step on your air hose
>when painting; it isn't as rigid as the real ones) You might get
>lucky and have the same threads on your setups. If so Home Depot's
>garden supply shop can help you.
>
>-Roland
>
>On Thu, 01 Jun 2000 07:27:54 -0400, John Vrugtman wrote:
>
>::
>:: I've had something very much like it... I bought it from TiP. It
>:: appears to have exactly the same mask and hose arrangment, and the box
>:: looks similar but mine is painted blue...
>::
>:: I like it very much. I bought it originally for my wood shop. It
>:: prevents me from breathing any fumes from sawdust (I seem to have an
>:: alergic reaction to some of the exotic timber I use for my furniture
>:: making hobby).... Anyway, I also have used it for whenever I'm doing
>:: something "nasty" in the garage.
>::
>:: Only problem?... I'd like to buy a spare hose (40') and I'd like a spare
>:: half-face mask too... But the price!!!!... These guys charge like
>:: wounded bulls for their accessories!
>::
>:: Anyone found a better supplier in terms of cost?.....
>::
>:: Thanks
>:: -Skip-
>::
>::
>:: "John A. Vrugtman" wrote:
>:: >
>:: > MOWOGMAN@aol.com wrote:
>:: >
>:: > > I know no one asked , but here goes anyway!
>:: > > I have finally used the Hobbyair 1F breathing system I recently
>purchased for
>:: > > painting nasty Isocynide paints. In a word my review is: Awesome!
>:: >
>:: > Just to add my .02, I've used one for a year now and am very happy
>with it,
>:: > particularly in the summer as it defogs your glasses while keeping
>your lungs
>:: > safe.
>:: >
>:: > John
>:: > BJ8
>:: > 56 F100
>:: > Norton
>::
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Thu, 01 Jun 2000 12:16:52 -0700
Subject: Re: Q on BJ7 tonneau cover snap arrangement
I would definitely reinforce it with a grommet. My original tonneau is
starting to pull away there as it encounters a fair amount of pull if you
drive with it still on the car. The grommet is large enough to go
completely over the fastener's nut, so that its thickness does not
interfere with the fit of the other flap and its gripper.
bk
-------------------------------
At 11:24 AM 6/1/00 , you wrote:
>I am fitting a new Moss tonneau cover to my BJ7. Most of the Lift a
>dot and Tenax hardware is included, but a couple of reinforcing metal
>grommets are not.
>
>There is a Tenax stud just behind the door shut pillars, and two
>pieces of the tonneau cover are to be held in place by this -- one
>comes to the stud from the rear and the other from the front, sealing
>over the top of the doors. Evidently this two piece arrangement is to
>make it easier to furl the cover behind the front seats without a big
>fold at this point.
>
>My old cover, which may well be the original, has a brass reinforcing
>grommet on the piece that lies underneath the other (and the Tenax
>fastener on the one above it). Should I just find a cooperative sail
>or awning maker and have a new brass grommet installed on the new
>cover, or am I missing something? The grommet would have to be large
>enough to allow the Tenax fastener to grab the stud through it, I
>guess. There is some tension required to hold both flaps in place, so
>just an unreinforced hole would stretch and pull with a little use.
>
>-Roland
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 1 Jun 2000 20:21:59 +0100
Subject: UK 100 Register & Healey Millenium Weekend 16-18 June 2000
This is just a note to thank all those who responded so quickly to my
Email repeated below. In less than 24 hours I received 8 new entries
from around the world plus 5 direct Emails with interesting queries
and/or additional information.
I am beginning to think that this Internet thing might catch on after
all.
Thanks again
------- Forwarded message follows -------
To all interested Austin-Healey 100 Owners.
At least twice a year we run a summary of the 100s that we have recorded
in our UK 100 Register Database. We cannot give out details about
individual cars without the owners permission but never the less we get
a great deal of interest in the overall numbers and selected breakdowns
of information.
We shall be producing our next summary in time for or Millenium Weekend
to be held at Beaulieu on the 16th to 18th June. If any owner is
interested in sending us details of their 100 and has not already done
so then please access our WEB site at
http://www.jharper.demon.co.uk/100reg1.htm
All entries will be gratefully received but sorry may not be
individually acknowledged. However may I thank those who have sent in
entries over the last six months or so. On average we have been
receiving a little over one a week recently.
Best regards to all
--
John Harper
--
John Harper
From "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec at globalserve.net>
Date: Thu, 1 Jun 2000 16:16:21 -0400
Subject: Re: Product review: HobbyAir breathing system
Like everything "natural" is automatically good for you - give me
a break.
Mike L.
60A,67E,59Bug
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: June 1, 2000 2:52 PM
Subject: Re: Product review: HobbyAir breathing system
>
> I'd be leery of using ordinary garden hose for breathing air.
Some of them
> give off some noxious plastic odors that doubtful are good for
you. Maybe a
> natural rubber hose.
>
> ---------------------
> At 10:39 AM 6/1/00 , you wrote:
>
> >I don't know about your air supplies, but I use a fairly large
Wagner
> >CapSpray turbine for both breathing and painting supplies
> >simultaneously. Its connections are ordinary garden hose
thread type,
> >and I use drinking water quality garden hose for extensions
when I
> >need them, and a "V" type splitter with valves to divide the
flow
> >between breathing and spray gun. (just don't step on your air
hose
> >when painting; it isn't as rigid as the real ones) You might
get
> >lucky and have the same threads on your setups. If so Home
Depot's
> >garden supply shop can help you.
> >
> >-Roland
> >
> >On Thu, 01 Jun 2000 07:27:54 -0400, John Vrugtman wrote:
> >
> >::
> >:: I've had something very much like it... I bought it from
TiP. It
> >:: appears to have exactly the same mask and hose arrangment,
and the box
> >:: looks similar but mine is painted blue...
> >::
> >:: I like it very much. I bought it originally for my wood
shop. It
> >:: prevents me from breathing any fumes from sawdust (I seem to
have an
> >:: alergic reaction to some of the exotic timber I use for my
furniture
> >:: making hobby).... Anyway, I also have used it for whenever
I'm doing
> >:: something "nasty" in the garage.
> >::
> >:: Only problem?... I'd like to buy a spare hose (40') and I'd
like a spare
> >:: half-face mask too... But the price!!!!... These guys charge
like
> >:: wounded bulls for their accessories!
> >::
> >:: Anyone found a better supplier in terms of cost?.....
> >::
> >:: Thanks
> >:: -Skip-
> >::
> >::
> >:: "John A. Vrugtman" wrote:
> >:: >
> >:: > MOWOGMAN@aol.com wrote:
> >:: >
> >:: > > I know no one asked , but here goes anyway!
> >:: > > I have finally used the Hobbyair 1F breathing system I
recently
> >purchased for
> >:: > > painting nasty Isocynide paints. In a word my review
is: Awesome!
> >:: >
> >:: > Just to add my .02, I've used one for a year now and am
very happy
> >with it,
> >:: > particularly in the summer as it defogs your glasses while
keeping
> >your lungs
> >:: > safe.
> >:: >
> >:: > John
> >:: > BJ8
> >:: > 56 F100
> >:: > Norton
> >::
>
>
From "S.HUTCHINGS" <hutching at myna.com>
Date: Thu, 1 Jun 2000 16:27:53 -0400
Subject: Water pumps
I'm trying to track down a small but elusive water leak on a BJ8. There is
a little row of drops on the piece of frame behind the rad, but I can't see
any sign of a leak from the rad. Because the head is off
anyway, I'm going to pull the rad and have it tested. My question is, if
it's not the rad, is there a way of
having the water pump tested.....it has been sitting, so it's a likely suspect.
Stephen, BJ8
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 1 Jun 2000 16:30:39 EDT
Subject: Bowie (MD) British Car Day
Does anyone have a registration contact for this event on June 25th? I
believe it is put on by the MGT registry for DC, or something like that.
Thanks--Michael
From "Scheuble, Fred J., HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Thu, 1 Jun 2000 16:44:25 -0400
Subject: RE: Product review: HobbyAir breathing system
Mike
not to open a can of worms but I been spraying cars for over twenty
years and have never read or been advised to using garden hose for spray
equipment, on the other had I've seen "paint people" end up the hospital
thinking they were being safe. I'm not judging one way or the other but when
it comes to your health I would research the safety aspect as thoroughly as
possible and happy spraying!
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Lupynec [mailto:mlupynec@globalserve.net]
Sent: Thursday, June 01, 2000 4:16 PM
To: healeys
Subject: Re: Product review: HobbyAir breathing system
Like everything "natural" is automatically good for you - give me
a break.
Mike L.
60A,67E,59Bug
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: June 1, 2000 2:52 PM
Subject: Re: Product review: HobbyAir breathing system
>
> I'd be leery of using ordinary garden hose for breathing air.
Some of them
> give off some noxious plastic odors that doubtful are good for
you. Maybe a
> natural rubber hose.
>
> ---------------------
> At 10:39 AM 6/1/00 , you wrote:
>
> >I don't know about your air supplies, but I use a fairly large
Wagner
> >CapSpray turbine for both breathing and painting supplies
> >simultaneously. Its connections are ordinary garden hose
thread type,
> >and I use drinking water quality garden hose for extensions
when I
> >need them, and a "V" type splitter with valves to divide the
flow
> >between breathing and spray gun. (just don't step on your air
hose
> >when painting; it isn't as rigid as the real ones) You might
get
> >lucky and have the same threads on your setups. If so Home
Depot's
> >garden supply shop can help you.
> >
> >-Roland
> >
> >On Thu, 01 Jun 2000 07:27:54 -0400, John Vrugtman wrote:
> >
> >::
> >:: I've had something very much like it... I bought it from
TiP. It
> >:: appears to have exactly the same mask and hose arrangment,
and the box
> >:: looks similar but mine is painted blue...
> >::
> >:: I like it very much. I bought it originally for my wood
shop. It
> >:: prevents me from breathing any fumes from sawdust (I seem to
have an
> >:: alergic reaction to some of the exotic timber I use for my
furniture
> >:: making hobby).... Anyway, I also have used it for whenever
I'm doing
> >:: something "nasty" in the garage.
> >::
> >:: Only problem?... I'd like to buy a spare hose (40') and I'd
like a spare
> >:: half-face mask too... But the price!!!!... These guys charge
like
> >:: wounded bulls for their accessories!
> >::
> >:: Anyone found a better supplier in terms of cost?.....
> >::
> >:: Thanks
> >:: -Skip-
> >::
> >::
> >:: "John A. Vrugtman" wrote:
> >:: >
> >:: > MOWOGMAN@aol.com wrote:
> >:: >
> >:: > > I know no one asked , but here goes anyway!
> >:: > > I have finally used the Hobbyair 1F breathing system I
recently
> >purchased for
> >:: > > painting nasty Isocynide paints. In a word my review
is: Awesome!
> >:: >
> >:: > Just to add my .02, I've used one for a year now and am
very happy
> >with it,
> >:: > particularly in the summer as it defogs your glasses while
keeping
> >your lungs
> >:: > safe.
> >:: >
> >:: > John
> >:: > BJ8
> >:: > 56 F100
> >:: > Norton
> >::
>
>
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Thu, 01 Jun 2000 13:56:27 -0700
Subject: Re: Product review: HobbyAir breathing system
Not at all what I meant. Just that lots of plastics leech stuff for long
periods. Go smell some garden hoses next time you're in Home Depo and tell
me you'd want to breath through them.
I'm no granola-head.
--------------------
At 01:16 PM 6/1/00 , you wrote:
>Like everything "natural" is automatically good for you - give me
>a break.
>
>Mike L.
>60A,67E,59Bug
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
>To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: June 1, 2000 2:52 PM
>Subject: Re: Product review: HobbyAir breathing system
>
>
> >
> > I'd be leery of using ordinary garden hose for breathing air.
>Some of them
> > give off some noxious plastic odors that doubtful are good for
>you. Maybe a
> > natural rubber hose.
> >
> > ---------------------
> > At 10:39 AM 6/1/00 , you wrote:
> >
> > >I don't know about your air supplies, but I use a fairly large
>Wagner
> > >CapSpray turbine for both breathing and painting supplies
> > >simultaneously. Its connections are ordinary garden hose
>thread type,
> > >and I use drinking water quality garden hose for extensions
>when I
> > >need them, and a "V" type splitter with valves to divide the
>flow
> > >between breathing and spray gun. (just don't step on your air
>hose
> > >when painting; it isn't as rigid as the real ones) You might
>get
> > >lucky and have the same threads on your setups. If so Home
>Depot's
> > >garden supply shop can help you.
> > >
> > >-Roland
> > >
> > >On Thu, 01 Jun 2000 07:27:54 -0400, John Vrugtman wrote:
> > >
> > >::
> > >:: I've had something very much like it... I bought it from
>TiP. It
> > >:: appears to have exactly the same mask and hose arrangment,
>and the box
> > >:: looks similar but mine is painted blue...
> > >::
> > >:: I like it very much. I bought it originally for my wood
>shop. It
> > >:: prevents me from breathing any fumes from sawdust (I seem to
>have an
> > >:: alergic reaction to some of the exotic timber I use for my
>furniture
> > >:: making hobby).... Anyway, I also have used it for whenever
>I'm doing
> > >:: something "nasty" in the garage.
> > >::
> > >:: Only problem?... I'd like to buy a spare hose (40') and I'd
>like a spare
> > >:: half-face mask too... But the price!!!!... These guys charge
>like
> > >:: wounded bulls for their accessories!
> > >::
> > >:: Anyone found a better supplier in terms of cost?.....
> > >::
> > >:: Thanks
> > >:: -Skip-
> > >::
> > >::
> > >:: "John A. Vrugtman" wrote:
> > >:: >
> > >:: > MOWOGMAN@aol.com wrote:
> > >:: >
> > >:: > > I know no one asked , but here goes anyway!
> > >:: > > I have finally used the Hobbyair 1F breathing system I
>recently
> > >purchased for
> > >:: > > painting nasty Isocynide paints. In a word my review
>is: Awesome!
> > >:: >
> > >:: > Just to add my .02, I've used one for a year now and am
>very happy
> > >with it,
> > >:: > particularly in the summer as it defogs your glasses while
>keeping
> > >your lungs
> > >:: > safe.
> > >:: >
> > >:: > John
> > >:: > BJ8
> > >:: > 56 F100
> > >:: > Norton
> > >::
> >
> >
>
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Thu, 01 Jun 2000 15:39:02 -0700
Subject: Re: Product review: HobbyAir breathing system
Guess I'd better post this to the list. Sent previously to Bill Katz:
I agree. That is why I use "drinking water quality" hose, as I
mentioned in my posting. It isn't rubber, but has no odor I can
detect. Home Depot sells them. They do cost a bit more.
-Roland
On Thu, 01 Jun 2000 11:52:39 -0700, you wrote:
:: I'd be leery of using ordinary garden hose for breathing air. Some of them
:: give off some noxious plastic odors that doubtful are good for you. Maybe a
:: natural rubber hose.
From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 1 Jun 2000 18:49:30 EDT
Subject: Re: Brake master
Well, I goofed...I wrote before I thought. If I use a 5/8 inch bore master
cylinder can I get away without the booster? Oh, by the way...no need to pay
a lot for the 7/8 bore master cylinder either if that is what you want.
Check out Pegasus racing products www.pegasusautoracing.com and get a
catalog. I think you will be pleasantly surprised to see that they have the
Girling 7/8 bore remote res. master for a little over $90. The 5/8 is $80,
so the issue is not price...I REALLY don't want to deal with the booster.
Thanks again.
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
<< > Hi listers!
> I am restoring my '67 BJ8 and I am up to brake lines. I do not think that
my booster will be easily serviced since it has some corrosion on the inner
bore. Just as well since I don't really want it in there anyhow. The stock
master cyl. is 7/8 inch bore from what I measured. My idea is to use a
1.125 inch bore master cylinder(Tilton) by itself and then I should not need
a booster. Any thoughts or similar ideas? TIA
> Cheers,
> Chris
> BJ8
> XJ6
>>
From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 1 Jun 2000 20:01:10 EDT
Subject: Another brake question
Hi again,
Does anyone have the measurements for caliper piston diameter for the
non-servo cars...BJ7 and early BJ8? TIA
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Thu, 1 Jun 2000 20:26:56 -0400
Subject: Calling Wayne Schultz
Is Wayne Schultz on the list? If so, please contact me. Thanks.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666 TARHEELY
Havelock, NC
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Thu, 1 Jun 2000 20:30:54 EDT
Subject: Re: Q on BJ7 tonneau cover snap arrangement
In a message dated 06/01/2000 1:22:33 PM Central Daylight Time, rwil@cts.com
writes:
<< I am fitting a new Moss tonneau cover to my BJ7. >>
Had you asked me Roland, I would have told you "up front" it's designed for
BJ-8, not BJ-7. Adaptable, yes. Correct, no.
Cheers...........
Ed
'63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey) [BT,ST,TT,RT)
Founding Member & Delegate, ILLINI Chapter - AHCA
(20+years)
Member, AHCUSA
Ed Kaler, Proprietor
" Just Brits "
Hinsdale, IL
From "Jim Lesher" <ha6 at hotmail.com>
Date: Thu, 01 Jun 2000 18:44:33 PDT
Subject: BN1 cylinder head update
I want to say a big thank you to all those on the list who responded to my
need. I was able to purchase for a reasonable sum, a head that was fluxed
with the valve work already completed. I will let you know if any problems
develop. I hope to be back on the road shortly.
Healey people are certainly willing to help another owner out when the need
arises.
Thanks again for all your help
Jim Lesher
55 - BN1
57 - BN4
________________________________________________________________________
From "Jack Irby" <jackirby at erols.com>
Date: Thu, 1 Jun 2000 21:58:35 -0400
Subject: RE: Bowie (MD) British Car Day
Michael,
Our local MG club's latest news letter says to call 703.323.1260. Also
says that the neighbors around Allen Pond Park have complained so much in
the past that this will be the last year at that location. Hope they can
find an alternate.
Jack
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Awgertoo@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, June 01, 2000 4:31 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Bowie (MD) British Car Day
Does anyone have a registration contact for this event on June 25th? I
believe it is put on by the MGT registry for DC, or something like that.
Thanks--Michael
From skip saunders <tfs at mitre.org>
Date: Thu, 01 Jun 2000 22:38:31 -0400
Subject: Re: Product review: HobbyAir breathing system
I'm glad you did... I'm interested in finding a more reasonably priced
hose, and the suggestion to checkout Home Depot was dropping off the
horizon....because I don't particularly want to be breathing the plastic
out-gassing fumes that most hoses carry. However, if there's a hose
that doesn't impart noxious chemical additives, then that may act as a
suitable substitute for the high priced "accessory" offered by these
air-supply-companies....
Now, if only someone could come up with a cheaper face mask. Paying
nearly $100 seems excessive, when the stand-alone filter types go for
about 1/3 of that price...
Thanks in advance
-Skip-
Roland Wilhelmy wrote:
>
> Guess I'd better post this to the list. Sent previously to Bill Katz:
>
> I agree. That is why I use "drinking water quality" hose, as I
> mentioned in my posting. It isn't rubber, but has no odor I can
> detect. Home Depot sells them. They do cost a bit more.
>
> -Roland
>
> On Thu, 01 Jun 2000 11:52:39 -0700, you wrote:
>
> :: I'd be leery of using ordinary garden hose for breathing air. Some of them
> :: give off some noxious plastic odors that doubtful are good for you. Maybe a
> :: natural rubber hose.
From Reid Trummel <rtrummel at san.osd.mil>
Date: Fri, 2 Jun 2000 07:48:50 -0000
Subject: RE: Healey Specials Article and Pictures2
Sorry to bomb the whole list...
Simon,
I have been receiving your emails just fine, but for some reason I am not
able to send email directly to you. When I try, the next day I get one of
those "Permanent Fatal Errors" messages in return. (That as opposed to a
*Temporary* Fatal Error, I suppose...)
In any case, thanks for what you've sent. I understand that attachments to
messages sent to the whole list are verboten, so you'll have to send them
to individual email addresses. Thanks again.
Cheers,
Reid
-----Original Message-----
From: Simon Sabel [SMTP:simon.sabel@flinthouse.com]
Sent: Thursday, June 01, 2000 19:02
To: REID TRUMMEL
Subject: Fw: Healey Specials Article and Pictures2
Wow, sorry about the big e mail- do you know how to compress the
attachments
for other Listers ?
I hope you find it of interest.
Regards
Simon
From "Andy King" <healey-100 at hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 2 Jun 2000 00:10:17 -1000
Subject: BJ8 body number location help needed
Well I have a Healey Hundred and it has body numbers all over it, no
problem!
However I just picked up a BJ8 It's a 1966 Healey according to the
registration and previous ownership papers, however at some time in the late
sixtys the number plates were lost and the state reissued City and County
numbers. I would like to find the original body number. It looks like
there used to be a plate mounted to the frame rail behind the right engine
mount. I heard rumors that there was a number on the side of one of the
shock plates, but I am not sure of the location and could not find anything
.
Can the collective help?
Thanks in advance
Andy
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Fri, 02 Jun 2000 08:19:23 -0400
Subject: Re: Another brake question
Csooch1@aol.com wrote:
> Hi again,
> Does anyone have the measurements for caliper piston diameter for the
> non-servo cars...BJ7 and early BJ8? TIA
> Cheers,
> Chris
> BJ8
> XJ6
Hi Chris,
Up to 1964, including MkIII with Girling 14 calipers part # 17H4679
1.875" dia
1965 on with Girling 16 calipers part # 27h2949 2.125" dia
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From ccruz at tribune.com
Date: Fri, 2 Jun 2000 08:11:00 -0500
Subject: RE: Michiana Brits Event
Hi Scott,
The car looks great, the description makes it sound really good. I'll
be talking to my better half about it.
I've got the Maddog's event down for July 8 & 9 not June. I was
planning to go. Do you have an itinerary for the event? Looking at
my calendar I realized I'm taking my family to Cedar Point, OH July
5-7 driving back on July 8. Thinking about the logistics, there's no
way I can drive from Cedar Point, OH back to Naperville, IL and back
to Kalamazoo, MI in the same day.
Thinking off the top of my head, I am wondering if I can ask you for a
favor. Would it be possible to leave my Healey at your home and pick
it up from there on July 8? I'm thinking I could drive it out on July
5 on my way to Cedar Point and drop it off with you. Head back to
South Bend the night of July 7 or morning of July 8 (depending on the
itinerary).
In return, I can offer you a ride to the event in a big Healey
(assuming your TR6 is sold), food and spirits over the weekend. Since
I will be getting a hotel room, you can stay at the event for free if
you don't mind sharing a room. I could drop you off at home on my way
back to Naperville on Sunday.
Scott, I don't want to impose and understand that this is might be a
lot to ask. Please feel free to say NO for any reason or no reason at
all.
I will talk to Heidi and let you know about the TR6. Take care, talk
to you soon.
Best regards,
Carlos Cruz
PS: Have a great weekend with your daughter's event.
______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________
Subject: Re: Michiana Brits Event
Author: "Trmgafun@aol.com" <SMTP:Trmgafun@aol.com> at Chicago-Tower
Date: 6/1/00 8:42 PM
Hi Carlos,
You can see the TR6 at: http://members.aol.com/triumphroadster/tr6.html
It's an unfinished web page that I've made for selling the car. So far the
only place I have the car advertised is on the VTR page, but it will be
listed in the Chicago Tribune in a few weeks if it doesn't sell soon.
I wish I could attend the event, but my Daughters deal can't be missed.
It's
a big extravaganza at the Joyce ACC at Notre Dame, and I imagine it will
take
up most of my day.
Another event you may want to think about going to is the Mad Dogs event at
Hickory Corners, MI, June 8 & 9. It's one of my favorites. A beautiful
place near Kalamazoo with a very nice car collection stored in numerous
buildings spread out throughout the large, well kept grounds. It's one I
never miss!
If I sell my TR6, I won't have an LBC to drive. I guess I'll be busy this
winter working on my BN4.....
Scott
In a message dated 6/1/00 1:34:24 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
ccruz@tribune.com writes:
<< Hi Scott,
I was planning to email you today as well. Sorry to hear you won't be
there this weekend. I'm looking forward to it. I am still planning
to go to Conclave - will probably register this week or next.
Tell me about your TR6. I might be interested. Any pictures?
Talk to you soon.
Carlos Cruz >>
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Fri, 2 Jun 2000 08:01:32 -0600
Subject: 2000 Jaguar Roadrunner 1000
For the list: www.roadrunner1000.com It was nice last year...IMHO
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 2 Jun 2000 12:09:51 EDT
Subject: Control box (2-spool)
I simply cannot get my control box (as in voltage regulator) to behave like
it "should". If I set it to charge someplace around 5 amps without any load
(lights) with battery at about 13 volts, then when I put my lights on (they
draw about 15 amps because of Halogen bulbs) I go into a discharge situation
of about 10 amps minus. Similarly, if I set tyhe box to give a slight charge
with the lights on, then when I turn themn off I am charging about 15 amps
which, I am afraid, may eventually cook the generator and or batts!
The generator, BTW, has checked out on the bench at putting out 28 or so
amps. I suspect the control box but I am surfe I am not the first one down
this path. What's a boy to do?
Michael Oritt, St. Leonard, MD.
1955 BN1
From ccruz at tribune.com
Date: Fri, 2 Jun 2000 11:19:00 -0500
Subject: Sorry...
My sincerest apologies to the list for any inconvenience regarding my
accidental BCC of an email earlier today. Please disregard and delete
it.
Best regards,
Carlos Cruz
From Norman Cay <normcay at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 02 Jun 2000 09:35:08 -0700
Subject: atw
I haven't seen any updates on the rally since they entered china. Anyone
have an idea how to get brought up to date (lbc based)?
thanks,
norm
From Jerry Rude <gdrude at pacbell.net>
Date: Fri, 02 Jun 2000 09:30:46 -0700
Subject: Re: sills
Skip,
I have never replaced the sills in a Healey, but am currently in the process
of doing so myself. I agree with you, however, that the frame should be
entirely unstressed when the sills are replaced so they can assist the frame
in resisting the bending stresses placed on it by the
engine/trans/passengers, etc.
I just retrieved my frame/body from a competent shop in Southern California
who had replaced several pieces of my frame. They have done several sill
replacements and welded in a cage for me to maintain the sheetmetal in
position while I remove and replace both sills. The proprieter told me he
welded in the cage with the door gap at 1/8 inch too much at the rear top of
the doors, and the doors sitting 1/8 inch too high at the same point. This
is approximately how much things flex when the engine/trans is installed
according to him. The cage is made of 5 pieces of 1 inch box iron with two
welded in each door opening front to rear, one about 2 inches below the door
top, and the other mid way down the door opening, all horizontally placed.
Then the 5th piece welded between the two lower pieces, just below the dash
board. I also welded two small portions between the 5th piece and the frame
on each side to keep the front cowl from dropping any (he instructed me on
this also).
I still have alot to do on it, but almost have one sill cut out, and have
the driver rear outrigger completely out. I'm just taking my time,
hopefully getting everything back in straight.
Jerry Rude
BJ8
From Todd S Taylor <todd.s.taylor at lmco.com>
Date: Fri, 02 Jun 2000 14:40:03 -0400
Subject: re: sills
With all this talk about re-placing the sills does the frame flex that
much with the engine and trany in when you're driving the car. If it
does I would think the doors would
open and you would never able able to get it right. Is this the case or
is the flexing a non-issue with the engine and tanny in?? My car, the
sills were mostly gone along with the out-riggers on both sides when
I got the car. I'm in the process of re-placing everything from the
frame out. I didn't have much to work with in the process. I hoping
for the best but if I get all done and the door open when I hit a bump
I might as well throw the car out... I hope this is not the case.
I don't have the room to dismantle the car totally. I'm doing the best
I can with it. The driver side is back togather
not perfect but the lines look ok and the door shuts ok I just haven't
road tested it yet. Am I dreaming to think everything will stay where
it is during the drive test or do I need to
weld extra bars in places so it doesn't flex during driving???? I
understand about the sills helping with the flexing.... I'm learning
alot from this list and alot from just doing the re-build myself.
I know the car will never be concours I'm just trying to get it back
looking good so I can take it out on Sunday afternoon to go get a paper
and have people stare at me driving by..
I'll will tell you with the sills being gone on the bottom, the ends of
the out-riggers gone and the door shut plate almost gone it's tough
putting the car back togather.....
I think I've done everything wrong at least once....... If anybody
wants to know how not to do it e-mail me..... one big puzzle!..
Todd....
1959 100-6
1080 MGB limited
1996 Audi A4
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Fri, 2 Jun 2000 12:58:36 -0600
Subject: Fw: To Women Everywhere...
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
click below for pictures
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/193/FSLO-947281688-900193.jpg
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/046/FSLO-952093816-742046.jpg
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/802/FSLO-952194843-487802.jpg
----- Original Message -----
Subject: To Women Everywhere
>
> TO WOMEN EVERYWHERE FROM A MAN WHO'S HAD ENOUGH
> . . .
> 1. If you think you're fat, you probably are . Don't ask us. We
> refuse to answer.
> 2. Learn to work the toilet seat. If it's up, put it down.
> 3. If you won't dress like the Victoria's Secret girls, don't expect us
> to act like soap opera guys.
> 4. Don't cut your hair. Ever. Long hair is always more attractive than
> short hair. One of the big reasons guys fear getting married is that
> married women always cut their hair, and by then you're stuck with
> her.
> 5. Birthdays, Valentines, and Anniversaries are not quests to see if
> we can find the perfect present yet again!
> 6. If you ask a question you don't want an answer to, expect an
> answer you don't want to hear.
> 7.Sometimes, we're not thinking about you. Live with it. Don't ask us
> what we're thinking about unless you are prepared to discuss such
> topics as navel lint, the shotgun formation, or monster trucks.
> 8. Sunday = sports. It's like the full moon or the changing of the
> tides. Let it be.
> 9. Shopping is not a sport, and no, we're never going to think of it
> that way.
> 10. When we have to go somewhere, absolutely anything you wear
> is fine. Really.
> 11. You have enough clothes.
> 12. You have too many shoes.
> 13. Crying is blackmail.
> 14. Ask for what you want. Let's be clear on this one: Subtle hints
> don't work. Strong hints don't work. Really obvious hints don't work.
> Just say it!
> 15. No, we don't know what day it is. We never will. Mark
> anniversaries on the calendar.
> 16. Peeing standing up is more difficult. We're bound to miss
> sometimes.
> 17. Most guys own three pairs of shoes-what makes you think we'd
> be any good at choosing which pair, out of thirty, would look good
> with your dress?
> 18 Yes and No are perfectly acceptable answers to almost every
> question.
> 19. Come to us with a problem only if you want help solving it. That's
> what we do . Sympathy is what your girlfriends are for.
> 20. A headache that lasts for 17 months is a problem. See a doctor.
> 21. It is neither in your best interest nor ours to take the quiz
> together. No, it doesn't matter which quiz.
> 22. Anything we said 6 months ago is inadmissible in an argument.
> All comments become null and void after 7 days.
> 23. If something we said can be interpreted two ways, and one of
> the ways makes you sad or angry, we meant the other one.
> 24. Let us ogle. We're going to look anyway; it's genetic.
> 25. You can either tell us to do something OR tell us how to do
> something but not both.
> 26. Whenever possible, please say whatever you have to say during
> commercials.
> 27. ALL men see in only in 6 colors. Peach is a fruit, not a color.
> 28. If it itches, it will be scratched.
> 29. Beer is as exciting for us as handbags are for you.
> 30. If we ask what's wrong and you say "nothing," we will act like
> nothing's wrong. We know you're lying, but it's just not worth the
> hassle.
> 31. What the hell is a doily?
>
>
>
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 2 Jun 2000 15:01:54 EDT
Subject: Re: Control box (2-spool)
In a message dated 6/2/00 9:32:32 AM, Awgertoo@aol.com writes:
<< Similarly, if I set tyhe box to give a slight charge
with the lights on, then when I turn themn off I am charging about 15 amps
which, I am afraid, may eventually cook the generator and or batts! >>
That's about what I've been getting on mine for the past two years -- seems
to be all right. I've got halogen in all lights, so I set the charge so that
it was just into the safety zone on my Smith's voltmeter (probably right at
about 13 volt) when everything is on. With everything off, I'm reading just
over 15 volts, which is also in the "safe" zone on my voltmeter.
Doesn't seem to be a problem.
Cheers
Gary Anderosn
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 2 Jun 2000 15:26:56 EDT
Subject: Fwd: Control box (2-spool)
--part1_62.3fa63f5.26696480_boundary
In a message dated 6/2/00 3:19:58 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Awgertoo writes:
<< hat's about what I've been getting on mine for the past two years --
seems to be all right. I've got halogen in all lights, so I set the charge so
that it was just into the safety zone on my Smith's voltmeter (probably right
at about 13 volt) when everything is on. With everything off, I'm reading
just over 15 volts, which is also in the "safe" zone on my voltmeter. >>
Gary--
No wonder that Lucas calls it a "Control Box" and not a "Voltage
Regulator": I will be the first to admit that there are indeed some
"controls" (adjustment screws) in there, but it certainly does not work the
way I understand conventional regulators to work. The way I heard it, a
regulator is supposed to dish amperage out of the generator/alternator as it
is needed in order to keep the voltage within a specific range--usually 12.8
to 13.8 or thereabouts depending upon the type of batt, etc., and once the
voltage approaches the top parameter it shuts the flow of amps down. What I
have is a CONSTANT flow of amps and if I set the "control box" to put enough
power out to cover lighting load then I MUST use the lights as an "auxiliary"
regulator to prevent the generator from cooking the battery or itself with
the load not present.
Having said all this, I must confess that before I put on the ammeter and
voltmeter I had no problem (that I was aware of....) Is this a case of too
much current or too much information?
Michael >>
--part1_62.3fa63f5.26696480_boundary
Content-Disposition: inline
Return-path: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
From: Awgertoo@aol.com
Full-name: Awgertoo
Message-ID: <a2.52790ed.266962de@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 2 Jun 2000 15:19:58 EDT
Subject: Re: Control box (2-spool)
To: Editorgary@aol.com
MIME-Version: 1.0
X-Mailer: AOL 4.0 for Windows 95 sub 101
In a message dated 6/2/00 3:01:54 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Editorgary writes:
<< hat's about what I've been getting on mine for the past two years -- seems
to be all right. I've got halogen in all lights, so I set the charge so that
it was just into the safety zone on my Smith's voltmeter (probably right at
about 13 volt) when everything is on. With everything off, I'm reading just
over 15 volts, which is also in the "safe" zone on my voltmeter. >>
Gary--
No wonder that Lucas calls it a "Control Box" and not a "Voltage Regulator":
I will be the first to admit that there are indeed some "controls"
(adjustment screws) in there, but it certainly does not work the way I
understand conventional regulators to work. The way I heard it, a regulator
is supposed to dish amperage out of the generator/alternator as it is needed
in order to keep the voltage within a specific range--usually 12.8 to 13.8 or
thereabouts depending upon the type of batt, etc., and once the voltage
approaches the top parameter it shuts the flow of amps down. What I have is
a CONSTANT flow of amps and if I set the "control box" to put enough power
out to cover lighting load then I MUST use the lights as an "auxiliary"
regulator to prevent the generator from cooking the battery or itself with
the load not present.
Having said all this, I must confess that before I put on the ammeter and
voltmeter I had no problem (that I was aware of....) Is this a case of too
much current or too much information?
Michael
--part1_62.3fa63f5.26696480_boundary--
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Fri, 2 Jun 2000 14:43:20 -0400
Subject: Re: BJ8 body number location help needed
Hi, Andy --
If you really mean "body number", the BJ8 body plate is mounted in the top
center of the firewall (the clutch line runs across it). The number stamped
on the tag would look like this (the body number of my BJ8 used for
example): 3223 BJ8 81544.
If you really mean the Car Number, or chassis number, or Vehicle
Identification Number (VIN), that tag was mounted on the firewall just under
the choke cable bracket. If the body number plate is still on your car, you
can use that number to determine the original VIN by obtaining the BMIHT
certificate (see http://home1.gte.net/spitlist/BMIHT.htm for details on how
to get the cert). BMIHT can also tell you what car left the factory with
the engine in your car, if the engine still has its identification plate and
assuming the engine is original to your car. Some BJ8s also had a
serialized rear axle (left side, rear vertical surface near the brake line
attachment bracket on the axle tube). If your car has one of these, then
that can also be used to determine the original VIN and I would consider
that a better indication than the engine number since rear axles are far
less likely to be changed during the life of a car than the engine.
The holes in the right frame rail were apparently carried over from earlier
cars that did have an I.D. plate there, but on BJ8s the holes are not used
to attach anything.
At least some cars have the VIN stamped into the right front shock absorber
mounting tower. Although I have never actually seen this myself and have
been totally unable to find this number on the two cars I own, others have
been able to identify their cars by finding this number on the shock tower.
As the keeper of the BJ8 registry, I collect as many details on each car as
possible, including the VIN/body/engine numbers. With the data I already
have in the registry, I can come pretty close to being able to tell you the
VIN of your car from the body number if it is still available.
Good luck!
Steve Byers -- HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: Andy King <healey-100@hawaii.rr.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, June 02, 2000 6:24 AM
Subject: BJ8 body number location help needed
>
>Well I have a Healey Hundred and it has body numbers all over it, no
>problem!
>
>However I just picked up a BJ8 It's a 1966 Healey according to the
>registration and previous ownership papers, however at some time in the
late
>sixtys the number plates were lost and the state reissued City and County
>numbers. I would like to find the original body number. It looks like
>there used to be a plate mounted to the frame rail behind the right engine
>mount. I heard rumors that there was a number on the side of one of the
>shock plates, but I am not sure of the location and could not find anything
>.
> Can the collective help?
>Thanks in advance
>Andy
>
From Norman Cay <normcay at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 02 Jun 2000 13:28:38 -0700
Subject: Re: atw
Thanks John,
Norm
John Slade wrote:
> Complete results, and a day to day assessment by the guy running what I
> think is the course opening car, are available at
> http://www.carnetnews.co.uk/results/main.html
>
> The daily commentaries are available by about noon eastern time each
> day, and are great reading.
>
> John Slade
> Manotick, ON
From dwflagg at juno.com
Date: Fri, 2 Jun 2000 01:47:05 -0400
Subject: Re:Food For Thought
A friend told me of a car show he attended recently at a local shopping
center or mall. He overheard some young people looking at a Healey
saying " that it was an ugly car". When he engaged them in conversation
about the Healey they said "They must not have known how to design cars
back then." Of course they were driving a CRX with the 4" tailpipes, etc.
Is this a sign of things to come? Is there hope for British cars? It
sounds as if some enlighten education is in order to insure the longevity
of our beloved hobby. As Keith Pennell would say, "Any thoughts?".
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
From "Ron Yates" <dipstickdigest at ctaz.com>
Date: Fri, 2 Jun 2000 15:43:41 -0700
Subject: Re: Re:Food For Thought
Doug
You could remind them that because of newly discovered aspects of DNA
and chromosme profiles within their age group, and the ongoing miraculous
activity of St. Ferrous, neither they nor their car are likely to be around
in 45 years.
Just a thought
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 01, 2000 10:47 PM
Subject: Re:Food For Thought
>
> A friend told me of a car show he attended recently at a local shopping
> center or mall. He overheard some young people looking at a Healey
> saying " that it was an ugly car". When he engaged them in conversation
> about the Healey they said "They must not have known how to design cars
> back then." Of course they were driving a CRX with the 4" tailpipes, etc.
> Is this a sign of things to come? Is there hope for British cars? It
> sounds as if some enlighten education is in order to insure the longevity
> of our beloved hobby. As Keith Pennell would say, "Any thoughts?".
>
> Happy Healeying,
>
> Doug
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________
> http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
From Peter Brauen <pbrauen at telepak.net>
Date: Fri, 02 Jun 2000 17:50:42 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8 body number location help needed
Hi Andy,
Every BJ8 I have been involved with (which is only a dozen or so) has
had the chassis number stamped on the right shock tower. In fact, twice it
has resulted in a MAJOR hassle for the owner to correct bogus ID tags. In
fact one is still titled as a BJ7. Apparently some former owner had several
cars in pieces, and when he finally came to terms with the fact that he was
never going to restore them, he threw them back together as best he
remembered. And a great time was had by all! But I digress. The number is
located on the first vertical surface below the shock, which is about 1/2"
tall. This is part of the plate onto which the shock mounts. The number
faces you and is not hard to find with a little wire brushing. The
characters are about 1/4" high and rather crudely stamped. Some or all may
be illegible. I hope this helps.---Peter (BMC Restorations)
-----Original Message-----
From: Andy King <healey-100@hawaii.rr.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, June 02, 2000 5:34 AM
Subject: BJ8 body number location help needed
Well I have a Healey Hundred and it has body numbers all over it, no
problem!
However I just picked up a BJ8 It's a 1966 Healey according to the
registration and previous ownership papers, however at some time in the
late
sixtys the number plates were lost and the state reissued City and
County
numbers. I would like to find the original body number. It looks like
there used to be a plate mounted to the frame rail behind the right
engine
mount. I heard rumors that there was a number on the side of one of the
shock plates, but I am not sure of the location and could not find
anything
.
Can the collective help?
Thanks in advance
Andy
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Fri, 2 Jun 2000 15:58:08 -0700
Subject: Re: Re:Food For Thought
Interesting statement....I have never had at a show or on the street anyone
say anything but praise for the styling of the car. Driving down the highway
I even had a bikers mumma scream nice f'ing car. Even young kids that have
no idea what it is give me the thumbs up. I would think perhaps they where
only pulling your proverbial leg. Or as they say everyone is entitled to
there own opinion and they are intitled to theirs even if they are
wrong...Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 01, 2000 10:47 PM
Subject: Re:Food For Thought
>
> A friend told me of a car show he attended recently at a local shopping
> center or mall. He overheard some young people looking at a Healey
> saying " that it was an ugly car". When he engaged them in conversation
> about the Healey they said "They must not have known how to design cars
> back then." Of course they were driving a CRX with the 4" tailpipes, etc.
> Is this a sign of things to come? Is there hope for British cars? It
> sounds as if some enlighten education is in order to insure the longevity
> of our beloved hobby. As Keith Pennell would say, "Any thoughts?".
>
> Happy Healeying,
>
> Doug
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________
> http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
>
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 2 Jun 2000 19:07:15 EDT
Subject: Re: Re:Food For Thought
In a message dated 6/2/00 3:31:30 PM, dwflagg@juno.com writes:
<< When he engaged them in conversation
about the Healey they said "They must not have known how to design cars
back then." Of course they were driving a CRX with the 4" tailpipes, etc.
Is this a sign of things to come? >>
Of course, we didn't know how to dress back then, either, insisting on
wearing unusual garments like chinos, madras shirts, and Bass Weejuns. If our
pants slipped to the point that we were walking on the cuffs and our boxer
shorts showed at the top, we would get sent home from school until we learned
how to dress properly. If we wore a baseball cap, it was to play baseball and
the brim was intended to keep the sun out of our eyes, not off the back of
our necks. And we took it off when we came indoors, certainly not wearing it
while we ate dinner in a restaurant.
Or am I just getting old?
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From Peter Brauen <pbrauen at telepak.net>
Date: Fri, 02 Jun 2000 18:44:28 -0500
Subject: Re: Re:Food For Thought
Maybe your friend was mistaken and the car was a TR3.
-----Original Message-----
From: dwflagg@juno.com <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, June 02, 2000 5:31 PM
Subject: Re:Food For Thought
A friend told me of a car show he attended recently at a local shopping
center or mall. He overheard some young people looking at a Healey
saying " that it was an ugly car". When he engaged them in conversation
about the Healey they said "They must not have known how to design cars
back then." Of course they were driving a CRX with the 4" tailpipes,
etc.
Is this a sign of things to come? Is there hope for British cars? It
sounds as if some enlighten education is in order to insure the
longevity
of our beloved hobby. As Keith Pennell would say, "Any thoughts?".
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 2 Jun 2000 19:49:19 EDT
Subject: Re: Food For Thought
Well, I try not to put too much stock in an opinion from a fellow youngster
when they spend twice what the car is worth in stereo equipment to go boom.
I have the lbc bug just like my Dad and Uncle do, and Grandfather did...and I
have dragged my wife into it as well. I usually find that it is pretty easy
to infect others...especially when those young guys see the way the girls
look at the car!
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
<< saying " that it was an ugly car". When he engaged them in conversation
about the Healey they said "They must not have known how to design cars
back then." Of course they were driving a CRX with the 4" tailpipes, etc.
Is this a sign of things to come? Is there hope for British cars? It
>>
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Fri, 2 Jun 2000 21:03:07 EDT
Subject: Re: Food For Thought
In a message dated 06/02/2000 5:05:57 PM Central Daylight Time,
dwflagg@juno.com writes:
<< As Keith Pennell would say, "Any thoughts?". >>
Sure, Doug!!
Ask those same "children" how much is 2 + 2 with the answer squared divided
by 2 with answer divided by 4 and see if they come up with 2.25!! And has to
be done without paper, pencil, pen, calculator and/or computer AND within
(I'll go "easy" here") ONE minute.
Whatcha tink?!?!?
Cheers...............
Ed
PS: An answer of "1", "3", "6", etal NOT accepted!!!
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
ROTFLMAO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 2 Jun 2000 07:43:24 -0400
Subject: Re: Q on BJ7 tonneau cover snap arrangement
What's the difference between the BJ7 and BJ8 tonneau covers.
I've been using Moss's for five years.
I had to fit new lift-the-dot studs to my dashboard because the
PO left them out when he did the interior. Also, I don't use the
snaps next to the B-pillars because it looks like the grommet
would scratch the finish.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1963 BJ7
1980 MGB
----- Original Message -----
From: <JustBrits@aol.com>
To: <rwil@cts.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 01, 2000 8:30 PM
Subject: Re: Q on BJ7 tonneau cover snap arrangement
>
> In a message dated 06/01/2000 1:22:33 PM Central Daylight Time,
rwil@cts.com
> writes:
>
> << I am fitting a new Moss tonneau cover to my BJ7. >>
>
> Had you asked me Roland, I would have told you "up front" it's designed
for
> BJ-8, not BJ-7. Adaptable, yes. Correct, no.
>
> Cheers...........
>
> Ed
> '63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey) [BT,ST,TT,RT)
> Founding Member & Delegate, ILLINI Chapter - AHCA
>
> (20+years)
> Member, AHCUSA
>
> Ed Kaler, Proprietor
> " Just Brits "
> Hinsdale, IL
>
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Sat, 2 Jun 2001 20:37:46 -0400
Subject: Styling for the Austin Healey
I guess that the young people didn't know that General Motors "copied" the
Austin Healey for the first Corvette body style.
Don
BN7
From "John Sims" <J_L_Sims at email.msn.com>
Date: Fri, 2 Jun 2000 19:11:17 -0700
Subject: Re: Food For Thought
I have my BN6 out almost every day and I have yet to hear anything except a
compliment. Also, I get at least one of them whenever I'm out.
The only negative word I have had was several years ago at a car show at one
of the local Casinos. There is a guy who has a Sebring with a Ford V-8 in
it. but, instead of the Sebring badges, he has Healey badges (he mounted
them incorrectly - he says so that everyone would know it is not a real
Healey. As they used to say, Capital B, Capital S) Anyway, one of the
aforementioned "dudes" with his pants belted somewhere between his rear end
and his knees told me my car was no good because it wasn't souped up with
some Detroit iron. Of course, as I remember him, his knuckles scraped the
ground along with his pants. I no longer show when this other guy is around.
John Sims, BN6
Las Vegas
----- Original Message -----
From: <Csooch1@aol.com>
To: <dwflagg@juno.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 02, 2000 4:49 PM
Subject: Re: Food For Thought
>
> Well, I try not to put too much stock in an opinion from a fellow
youngster
> when they spend twice what the car is worth in stereo equipment to go
boom.
> I have the lbc bug just like my Dad and Uncle do, and Grandfather
did...and I
> have dragged my wife into it as well. I usually find that it is pretty
easy
> to infect others...especially when those young guys see the way the girls
> look at the car!
> Cheers,
> Chris
> BJ8
> XJ6
>
> << saying " that it was an ugly car". When he engaged them in conversation
> about the Healey they said "They must not have known how to design cars
> back then." Of course they were driving a CRX with the 4" tailpipes, etc.
> Is this a sign of things to come? Is there hope for British cars? It
> >>
From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
Date: Sat, 03 Jun 2000 12:27:21 +1000
Subject: site update
Hello All
I have just completed an update to the site, including page 16 of my
restoration, an article on John Chathams 100/4 racer, and the site now
has a new section called "healeys around the world" I'm hoping this will
be a popular page so if any of you would like to send me images of your
healeys I will be happy to post them to this area.
Cheers
Larry Varley
Austin Healey 100 Restoration Site
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/
From BGAHC at aol.com
Date: Fri, 2 Jun 2000 23:16:01 EDT
Subject: Re: Food For Thought
Another view from kids with baggy pants:
While at the gas station recently a young fellow with the requisite tattoo's,
piercing and way oversized pants stopped his skateboard to check out the BJ8.
He casually mentioned that he was going to own one like mine in a few years.
His uncle is going to give him one that he has when the kid graduates college.
I was somewhat doubtful, he didn't seem very convincing. Kid had that kind
of perpetually stoned manner that made me think he is just a dreamer.
Still he matter of factly stated he was going to get one like mine for
college graduation. I confess to doubting the kids honesty.
As he skated away he turned and said "except my BJ8 is a Phase One."
I think he will be a Healey owner someday.
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
1957 BN4 Rally Car
1966 BJ8
From "Andy King" <healey-100 at hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 2 Jun 2000 19:47:17 -1000
Subject: Re: BJ8 body number location help needed
Ok, to everybody who gave advice as to the number location. I would like
you all to lean back in your chairs kick your feet out with your hands
clasped behind your head and casually exhale as you all come to the
realization that you RULE!!!
Much Mahalo for the help! Now all I've got to do is convince the dept of
motor vehicals to let me register it right. The state used it's numbering
system as the normal ID plates were missing back in 1968.
Thanks again Andy King
P.S thanks to the lister who gave the info on the BJ8 registry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Brauen" <pbrauen@telepak.net>
To: "Andy King" <healey-100@hawaii.rr.com>
Cc: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 02, 2000 12:50 PM
Subject: Re: BJ8 body number location help needed
>
> Hi Andy,
> Every BJ8 I have been involved with (which is only a dozen or so) has
> had the chassis number stamped on the right shock tower. In fact, twice it
> has resulted in a MAJOR hassle for the owner to correct bogus ID tags. In
> fact one is still titled as a BJ7. Apparently some former owner had
several
> cars in pieces, and when he finally came to terms with the fact that he
was
> never going to restore them, he threw them back together as best he
> remembered. And a great time was had by all! But I digress. The number is
> located on the first vertical surface below the shock, which is about 1/2"
> tall. This is part of the plate onto which the shock mounts. The number
> faces you and is not hard to find with a little wire brushing. The
> characters are about 1/4" high and rather crudely stamped. Some or all may
> be illegible. I hope this helps.---Peter (BMC Restorations)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Andy King <healey-100@hawaii.rr.com>
> To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Friday, June 02, 2000 5:34 AM
> Subject: BJ8 body number location help needed
>
>
>
> Well I have a Healey Hundred and it has body numbers all over it, no
> problem!
>
> However I just picked up a BJ8 It's a 1966 Healey according to the
> registration and previous ownership papers, however at some time in
the
> late
> sixtys the number plates were lost and the state reissued City and
> County
> numbers. I would like to find the original body number. It looks
like
> there used to be a plate mounted to the frame rail behind the right
> engine
> mount. I heard rumors that there was a number on the side of one of
the
> shock plates, but I am not sure of the location and could not find
> anything
> .
> Can the collective help?
> Thanks in advance
> Andy
>
>
From bn1 at flashcom.net
Date: Fri, 02 Jun 2000 23:42:27 -0700
Subject: Re: Food For Thought
BGAHC@aol.com wrote:
> Another view from kids with baggy pants:
>
> While at the gas station recently a young fellow with the requisite tattoo's,
> piercing and way oversized pants stopped his skateboard to check out the BJ8.
> He casually mentioned that he was going to own one like mine in a few years.
> His uncle is going to give him one that he has when the kid graduates college.
>
> I was somewhat doubtful, he didn't seem very convincing. Kid had that kind
> of perpetually stoned manner that made me think he is just a dreamer.
>
> Still he matter of factly stated he was going to get one like mine for
> college graduation. I confess to doubting the kids honesty.
> As he skated away he turned and said "except my BJ8 is a Phase One."
>
> I think he will be a Healey owner someday.
>
> Jim Werner
> Louisville, KY
> 1957 BN4 Rally Car
> 1966 BJ8
Oh, come on, Jim, is that really for real? I had owned 4 early Big Healeys and
a couple
of Frog Eyes before I knew the difference. If it's true, more power to him and
I hope you
stay in touch and get him involved with the List. There's a good chance that
genes like
he has will: "Keep the Lucas flames burning ;-)"
Bill Barnett
Santa Ana, CA
BN1 #663
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sat, 3 Jun 2000 08:56:22 -0400
Subject: Re: Food For Thought
>There's a good chance that genes like
>he has will: "Keep the Lucas flames burning ;-)"
Who was ever able to turn the Lucas light on??
From bn1 at flashcom.net
Date: Sat, 03 Jun 2000 07:15:22 -0700
Subject: Re: Food For Thought
"Lee S. Mairs" wrote:
> >There's a good chance that genes like
> >he has will: "Keep the Lucas flames burning ;-)"
>
> Who was ever able to turn the Lucas light on??
No offense, Lee, but you've obviously never had a Healey sitting in your
garage, that when
you hit the starter button, suddenly "flamed" under the dash! (Original wiring
in a '53)
Been there, done that, and still have the physical burn scars from tearing out
the direct
shorts while the insulation was on fire!
Bill
From costan0 at attglobal.net
Date: Sat, 3 Jun 2000 08:24:36 -0700
Subject: Kids and british cars
I started on British cars about 4 years ago when both my daughters were
getting ready to get their licenses. My wife decided that we would do a
family project and teach them about cars. Our first restoration was a TR3A
and all members helped restore the car. They love to ride (and now drive)
the car as they call it the boy magnet on the freeway. They have been to
many car shows and love looking at the different types of cars. The oldest
still loves the classic roadster style and would love to own one herself.
The younger also loves them and does not have a preference yet but has asked
for two years in a row to take the car to the high school car show and
display. We are now working on the Austin Healey and they have less time
but still help sometimes with the parents hobby. I think this is how you
get the younger crowd interested in our hobby and build a good family
project. My oldest daughter is now at college and has become the computer
tech person in her dorm. She will even take apart computers and upgrade
components. I don't think this would have happened without a little hands
on training and the belief that we can learn anything and fix anything.
Jerry
TR3A and BN4
From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
Date: Sat, 3 Jun 2000 11:45:26 EDT
Subject: Re: Food For Thought
Oh yeah, kids that know are out there! I was one once. I have had kids
come up and ask me detailed questions about my Isetta, and then go on to tell
me their uncle once had a Goggomobile! I've had another who asked if my
Healey ( at the time just a frame on a rotisserie) had three carbs or two.
I was one of those kids who read everything there was to read on cars and
knew way too much! (I'm 42 now)
John
Oostburg, WI
'60 BT7
'60 Mini
'80 TR7
'69 AA
'57 Isetta
Etc.
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sat, 3 Jun 2000 12:11:26 EDT
Subject: Re: Styling for the Austin Healey
In a message dated 6/2/00 6:58:40 PM, dyarber@dynasty.net writes:
<<
I guess that the young people didn't know that General Motors "copied" the
Austin Healey for the first Corvette body style.
Don
BN7 >>
What a nice piece of legend. Don't think it's true, however, based on the
timing of introduction of the two cars -- any basis in fact for the
statement? Any Bowtie fanatics out there on the Wings list?
Cheers
Gary
From bn1 at flashcom.net
Date: Sat, 03 Jun 2000 09:27:28 -0700
Subject: Re: Food For Thought
MOWOGMAN@aol.com wrote:
> Oh yeah, kids that know are out there! I was one once. I have had kids
> come up and ask me detailed questions about my Isetta, and then go on to tell
> me their uncle once had a Goggomobile! I've had another who asked if my
> Healey ( at the time just a frame on a rotisserie) had three carbs or two.
>
> I was one of those kids who read everything there was to read on cars and
> knew way too much! (I'm 42 now)
>
> John
> Oostburg, WI
> '60 BT7
> '60 Mini
> '80 TR7
> '69 AA
> '57 Isetta
> Etc.
You're still a kid, John! I'll be 53 in a few days. In a few years maybe
sanity will
strike you like it did me. I'll stick with my '53 BN1, the rest are gone.
Bill Barnett
BN1 #663
From "kirk kvam" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Jun 2000 09:35:41 -0700
Subject: Re: Styling for the Austin Healey
Maybe Don has GM confused with Carroll Shelby
Kirk Kvam
62BT7#3
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <dyarber@dynasty.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 03, 2000 9:11 AM
Subject: Re: Styling for the Austin Healey
>
>
> In a message dated 6/2/00 6:58:40 PM, dyarber@dynasty.net writes:
>
> <<
> I guess that the young people didn't know that General Motors "copied" the
> Austin Healey for the first Corvette body style.
>
> Don
> BN7 >>
>
> What a nice piece of legend. Don't think it's true, however, based on the
> timing of introduction of the two cars -- any basis in fact for the
> statement? Any Bowtie fanatics out there on the Wings list?
> Cheers
> Gary
From bn1 at flashcom.net
Date: Sat, 03 Jun 2000 09:40:00 -0700
Subject: Re: Kids and british cars
costan0@attglobal.net wrote:
> I started on British cars about 4 years ago when both my daughters were
> getting ready to get their licenses. My wife decided that we would do a
> family project and teach them about cars. Our first restoration was a TR3A
> and all members helped restore the car. They love to ride (and now drive)
> the car as they call it the boy magnet on the freeway. They have been to
> many car shows and love looking at the different types of cars. The oldest
> still loves the classic roadster style and would love to own one herself.
> The younger also loves them and does not have a preference yet but has asked
> for two years in a row to take the car to the high school car show and
> display. We are now working on the Austin Healey and they have less time
> but still help sometimes with the parents hobby. I think this is how you
> get the younger crowd interested in our hobby and build a good family
> project. My oldest daughter is now at college and has become the computer
> tech person in her dorm. She will even take apart computers and upgrade
> components. I don't think this would have happened without a little hands
> on training and the belief that we can learn anything and fix anything.
>
> Jerry
> TR3A and BN4
You, Sir, are one lucky man with one great family!
Thanks for sharing.
Bill Barnett
BN1 #663
From A2Garrison at aol.com
Date: Sat, 3 Jun 2000 13:12:10 EDT
Subject: Re: Wire Wheel Truing
In a message dated 06/01/2000 10:01:14 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
khenry@hmcltd.net writes:
<< It appears I may need to have my wire wheels retrued and balanced. Does
anyone know of a shop in the Northern Ohio area that does this type of
work ? >>
It's not northern Ohio, but Dayton Wire Wheel in Dayton, Ohio has a
rebuilding service which I have used and been happy with. They can be
reached at (513) 461-1707.
Alan Garrison
BN6
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Sat, 3 Jun 2000 16:21:34 EDT
Subject: Exhaust Note Turnoff
Drove into the Club parking lot today with my "Erika the Red" resonating her
usual deep-throated, long-stroke six exhaust note, and pulled into a parking
space next to a sexy looking BMW Z3. Erika took a long lusty glance at the
buffed Z3.
As I was about to get out, a nice looking female hard body came out from the
fitness center with a "workout glow", smiled and with a little condescending
wiggle of her derriere, jumped into her new yuppie Z3. So far so good.
Then she started it up and gave it a little blip on the throttle, and I
nearly lost my "cookies"!!! Even Erika gave a little shuttle shake! That
thing sounded like a sick Yugo four banger as it sounded it's tinny weak
exhaust note!
Both Erika and I agreed that neither the Z3 or the hard body looked good when
your puking. Who would pay $30,000 plus for something that sounded as weak
as that.? Thank goodness for the Big Healey exhaust note!
John
100-Six Erika the Red
From Joseph Elmer <Joelmer at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sat, 03 Jun 2000 18:31:18 -0400
Subject: Facet electric fuel pump hookup
Does the body of the Facet electric fuel pump have to be negatively
grounded? The instructions for installing a pump state to clean the
metal of the mounting point before bolting the pump to the car and that
the pump will not work unless grounded. Does it make any difference
that the car is positive ground? Some of the messages have implied that
the pump must be buffered off the car with an insulating material and
that non conducting bolts (nylon?) should be used. If done this way,
the body of the pump can be grounded by running a wire from immediately
under the pump (atop the insulating material) to the negative wire that
comes from the pump, both of them then being tied into the negative car
circuit. The other possibility is just to bolt the pump to the car with
metal bolts, and fasten the positive lead under the pump with the bolt.
Joe Elmer, BN1 (positive ground).
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Sat, 3 Jun 2000 19:19:29 EDT
Subject: Re: Facet electric fuel pump hookup
In a message dated 06/03/2000 5:33:26 PM Central Daylight Time,
Joelmer@worldnet.att.net writes:
<< The other possibility >>
Wrong, Joe. "the other possibility..." is to just put the right pump on the
car. Really can't ( in over 20 years ) remember a "facet" part from any of
the Healey Parts Manuals.
Maybe I am incorrect. The Nocks are on this list, as is Roger Moment, Gary
Ander, Reid Trummel, and a few more. Would someone care to enlighten me as
to these "new" parts??
Cheers.........
Ed
'63 BJ-7 ( Hortense THE Healey)
(all other stuff except 20+ year Member of an A-H Club
omitted.)
From dwflagg at juno.com
Date: Fri, 2 Jun 2000 05:04:57 -0400
Subject: Re:Top Stowage Cover/Bag
I have available for the list, before they go on eBay, a black top
stowage cover either BJ7 or BJ8 (I don't know how to tell the difference)
and a black tonneau stowage bag (BJ7/BJ8). Both are in excellent
condition and with a little cleaning would look like new. Please contact
me off the list. Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sat, 03 Jun 2000 18:37:23 -0500
Subject: Re: Facet electric fuel pump hookup
Joe:
The Facet competition fuel pump is a negative ground, only, fuel pump. Do
as you suggested, isolate the pump and run a separate ground wire. Best
regards.
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
From "F. Ronald Rader" <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Sat, 03 Jun 2000 17:43:14 -0700
Subject: Battery Questions
Listers:
I went out to start the BJ8 and unfortunately the battery was too dead
to do the job. I thought I had prevented this by turning off the battery
switch when I last drove it two weeks ago. How could the battery be dead
if it was "out of the circuit". This is a relatively new Otima sealed
battery.
Secondly. If I jump start the car using my Blazer, do I still connect
the + from the Blazer to the + of the Healey?
Thanks
Ron Rader
1965 BJ8
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sat, 3 Jun 2000 21:03:37 EDT
Subject: Re: Battery Questions
In a message dated 6/3/00 5:57:41 PM, rader@interworld.net writes:
<< Secondly. If I jump start the car using my Blazer, do I still connect
the + from the Blazer to the + of the Healey?
Thanks >>
Plus to plus, negative on the good battery to ground on the dead car. Under
all circumstances.
With the switch turned off, you sure shouldn't be losing charge. Once you
get a good battery in there, run a check on both sides of the switch. Most
likely a bad switch that is no longer isolating the battery when turned off.
Cheers
Gary
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Sat, 3 Jun 2000 21:24:54 EDT
Subject: Re: Facet electric fuel pump hookup
In a message dated 6/3/00 7:49:44 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
rjh.co@worldnet.att.net writes:
<< Joe:
The Facet competition fuel pump is a negative ground, only, fuel pump. Do
as you suggested, isolate the pump and run a separate ground wire. Best
regards.
Jim Hockert >>
Moss is selling what looks like the same thing as the NAPA (Facet) pump for
about double the price, but the most recent catalogue's claim (on p. A44) is:
"Works on positive or negative ground cars." Only one part number is given!
How can this be??
Michael Oritt
From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
Date: Sat, 3 Jun 2000 22:47:49 EDT
Subject: Re: Styling for the Austin Healey
Maybe Kirk has Carroll Shelby confused with Tojiero, the man who styled the
AC Ace from which the Cobra was derived? (hope I spelled it right!)
John.
From Joseph Elmer <Joelmer at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sat, 03 Jun 2000 23:27:22 -0400
Subject: Re: Facet electric fuel pump hookup
Michael: Probably by doing as as Jim says.
Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 6/3/00 7:49:44 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> rjh.co@worldnet.att.net writes:
>
> << Joe:
>
> The Facet competition fuel pump is a negative ground, only, fuel pump. Do
> as you suggested, isolate the pump and run a separate ground wire. Best
> regards.
>
> Jim Hockert >>
>
> Moss is selling what looks like the same thing as the NAPA (Facet) pump for
> about double the price, but the most recent catalogue's claim (on p. A44) is:
> "Works on positive or negative ground cars." Only one part number is given!
> How can this be??
>
> Michael Oritt
From Joseph Elmer <Joelmer at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sat, 03 Jun 2000 23:27:43 -0400
Subject: Re: Facet electric fuel pump hookup
Michael: Probably by doing as as Jim says. Joe Elmer
Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 6/3/00 7:49:44 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> rjh.co@worldnet.att.net writes:
>
> << Joe:
>
> The Facet competition fuel pump is a negative ground, only, fuel pump. Do
> as you suggested, isolate the pump and run a separate ground wire. Best
> regards.
>
> Jim Hockert >>
>
> Moss is selling what looks like the same thing as the NAPA (Facet) pump for
> about double the price, but the most recent catalogue's claim (on p. A44) is:
> "Works on positive or negative ground cars." Only one part number is given!
> How can this be??
>
> Michael Oritt
From "Eyvind Larssen" <seel at online.no>
Date: Sun, 4 Jun 2000 13:08:01 +0200
Subject: Kingpin
Hmm....
Seems there is a slack in my kingpins/bolts... but its vertically... NOT
horisontally..... what is the beste approach?... Should I try to tighten the
topnut..og do I need to dismount and build up with shims??... I dont expect i
need to change the bushings as there is no horisontal movement at all....
anyone?
Eyvind Larssen 60BT7
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sun, 4 Jun 2000 08:02:57 -0400
Subject: Re: Battery Questions
>With the switch turned off, you sure shouldn't be losing charge. Once you
>get a good battery in there, run a check on both sides of the switch. Most
>likely a bad switch that is no longer isolating the battery when turned
off.
Here is a tip for an inexpensive testing tool to help you out. Got to Radio
Shack and buy a small 12 volt DC bulb with leads attached. These lights
were made to snap into holes in panels and be panel lights. Connect the
test light in series with the battery terminal and the main battery cable
(i.e., disconnect the main battery cable and then connect one end of the
test light to the now empty terminal on the battery and the other end of the
test light to the cable end you just disconnected. If everything is turned
off in the car, the light should not light; however, if something is still
drawing current (the clock circuit in that new stereo?), the light will
glow. The brighter the light, the more current the "thought to be
unconnected" device is drawing from your battery.
BTW, disconnected batteries will self-discharge. I usually assume about 10%
per month when working on marine electrical systems.
Lee Mairs
Northern Virginia
still eagerly awaiting his BT7
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at connect.comdek.net.au>
Date: Sun, 4 Jun 2000 20:03:20 +0800
Subject: Re: Kingpin
Eyvind
I have just rebuilt my front suspension (yesterday) as part of my
restoration. If the topnut is tightened so the split pin will still go
through AND you still have more vertical movement than the recommended
.002in then you need to use different "Staybrite " washers to correct for
this ( or if they are not available additional shims to suit. A lot of the
early cars used the same system and shimming was common.)
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
1959 BT7 # 10112, in restoration
----- Original Message -----
From: Eyvind Larssen <seel@online.no>
To: Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, June 04, 2000 7:08 PM
Subject: Kingpin
>
> Hmm....
> Seems there is a slack in my kingpins/bolts... but its vertically... NOT
horisontally..... what is the beste approach?... Should I try to tighten the
topnut..og do I need to dismount and build up with shims??... I dont expect
i need to change the bushings as there is no horisontal movement at all....
anyone?
>
> Eyvind Larssen 60BT7
>
>
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Sun, 04 Jun 2000 08:08:51 -0400
Subject: Re: Kingpin
Eyvind Larssen wrote:
> Hmm....
> Seems there is a slack in my kingpins/bolts... but its vertically... NOT
>horisontally..... what is the beste approach?... Should I try to tighten the
>topnut..og do I need to dismount and build up with shims??... I dont expect i
>need to change the bushings as there is no horisontal movement at all....
>anyone?
>
> Eyvind Larssen 60BT7
The vertical play in the king pin is adjusted by using different thickness
staybrite washers under the upper trunnion. This is an RTM repair.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 07:56:45 -0400
Subject: The Ignitor Electronic Ignition System
Does anyone know the correct number for the Ignitor electronic ignition
system for a 3000???
I know it must have been listed here at least a dozen times but my hard
drive had to be re-formatted and I've lost all the data stored.
Thanks
Don
BN7
From Perk Hazlegrove <perk1 at rbnet.com>
Date: Sun, 04 Jun 2000 09:14:15 -0400
Subject: Re: Facet electric fuel pump hookup
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard J Hockert Esq <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Joseph Elmer <Joelmer@worldnet.att.net>; healeys@autox.team.net
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Saturday, June 03, 2000 7:46 PM
Subject: Re: Facet electric fuel pump hookup
>
>>
>The Facet competition fuel pump is a negative ground, only, fuel pump. Do
>as you suggested, isolate the pump and run a separate ground wire. Best
>regards.
>
At the risk of sounding negative, I feel the need to ask if the act of
isolating and energizing at opposite voltage, a portion of the vehicle's
fuel system might be a bit risky. You will not be able to isolate the fuel
lines, so full system potential will exist between the pump and the
connections there. I'm not familiar with the construction of the pump, and
maybe it is designed to do this, it just seems that the possibility of an
arc in the vicinity of the pump and under the tank poses a larger than
necessary risk.
Perk Hazlegrove
'66 BJ8
Roanoke Virginia
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 4 Jun 2000 09:23:19 EDT
Subject: Re: Food For Thought
Hi Bill,
I'll be 64 shortly and there is nothing I enjoy more than pulling up along
side a Caddy, etc., with an elderly couple in their late 50s and having them
look over at this white-haired kid with a big smile all over his face.
I used to old once, then I bought a Healey!
Rudy in NC
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 4 Jun 2000 09:28:52 EDT
Subject: Re: Food For Thought
In a message dated 6/2/00 9:18:52 PM Eastern Daylight Time, JustBrits@aol.com
writes:
ROTFLMAO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
=============================================================
IMHO, this LBC owner says; The same to you, Ed!
And maybe you can explain how you got 2.25 for your calculation while you are
at it.
Rudy in NC
From Mark Fawcett <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
Date: Sun, 04 Jun 2000 07:25:07 -0700
Subject: Re: The Ignitor Electronic Ignition System
Don,
It depends on the distributor that you have. They don't seen to offer a
kit for the DM6A that I have in my 60 BT7, but the kit for the 25D6
distributor is available. There part number for a negative ground kit is LU
162A. I'm not sure what the part # for a pos ground unit is.
Pertronix is located in San Dimas, CA I spoke to one of the technical
people (Bill) and he said they might be able to match it up with
something. They also said they could make one, but the cost could be
upwards to $250 depending on the complexity and time it took. I was going
to pay them a visit tomorrow to see if they match something up. If I do go
their shop, I'll let you and the list know the results.
BTW I have the neg ground unit for the DM6A that I would be willing to
sell for $60 if I can't work something out with them.
Mark Fawcett
Don Yarber wrote:
> Does anyone know the correct number for the Ignitor electronic ignition
> system for a 3000???
> I know it must have been listed here at least a dozen times but my hard
> drive had to be re-formatted and I've lost all the data stored.
> Thanks
> Don
> BN7
From "Coop1 at DNAI" <coop1@dnai.com>
Date: Sun, 4 Jun 2000 07:51:05 -0700
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note Turnoff
Yep, especially through a Monza system. Now that's an exhaust note!
Coop
> Both Erika and I agreed that neither the Z3 or the hard body looked good
when
> your puking. Who would pay $30,000 plus for something that sounded as
weak
> as that.? Thank goodness for the Big Healey exhaust note!
>
> John
> 100-Six Erika the Red
>
>
>
From "Keith R. Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Sun, 04 Jun 2000 11:58:28 -0400
Subject: Re: Styling for the Austin Healey
Don Yarber wrote:
>
> I guess that the young people didn't know that General Motors "copied" the
> Austin Healey for the first Corvette body style.
>
> Don
> BN7
Don,
But didn't the first Vette (53?) come out before Donald's car opened at
the Earl's Court(?) show?
Keith Pennell
From Healey3000MKII at aol.com
Date: Sun, 4 Jun 2000 11:59:30 EDT
Subject: Re: Food For Thought
In a message dated 06/04/2000 7:41:01 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
CAWS52803@aol.com writes:
<< IMHO, this LBC owner says; The same to you, Ed!
And maybe you can explain how you got 2.25 for your calculation while you
are
at it.
Rudy in NC
>>
About the exhaust note, I don't know why I like this but I do,..........I
love setting of car alarms, I don't try to do it, it just happens
..................
About the 2.25..................................please explain ???????????
been in my mind all weekend
Jim
62 BT7
From "Keith R. Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Sun, 04 Jun 2000 12:33:31 -0400
Subject: Healey story
Just a cute story on misidentification . . .
Went out last nite to a Healey club function in the BN7 but arrived too
late and everyone was gone. So I decided to go to the local short track
to watch a friend run his Baby Grand. He is also a Healey owner.
Was not too keen on leaving the BN7 in the parking lot, but did not have
time to go home for another vehicle. So I parked it in a somewhat
remote area and just accepted it would get a bit dusty from parking lot
dust.
At the end of the races returned to the car, all seemed just fine. As I
was cutting the battery switch back on and getting into the car, some
young kids close by asked if it was a Cobra. I smiled taking it as a
compliment and not their ingorance and said "No"
Then a young guy and his girlfriend walk by and he asks "Is it a kit?"
Trying not to sound a bit miffed I responded "No, it's the real thing!"
As he walked on further I heard him say to his lady "Sunbeam Tiger" . .
. . I said nothing.
Keith Pennell
AH 3000 BN7 or Cobra or Sunbeam Tiger or something
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Sun, 4 Jun 2000 12:55:27 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Kingpin
Pardon my ignorance, but
What's an RTM repair?
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
> Eyvind Larssen wrote:
>
> > Hmm....
> > Seems there is a slack in my kingpins/bolts... but its vertically... NOT
>horisontally..... what is the beste approach?... Should I try to tighten the
>topnut..og do I need to dismount and build up with shims??... I dont expect i
>need to change the bushings as there is no horisontal movement at all....
>anyone?
> >
> > Eyvind Larssen 60BT7
>
> The vertical play in the king pin is adjusted by using different thickness
>staybrite washers under the upper trunnion. This is an RTM repair.
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 4 Jun 2000 10:13:23 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: SpeedVision Films
Jim
There are several sources for film/video footage. Try one of the
following:
1. British Car @ http://www.britishcar.com/
2. Mill House Books @ MHBooks2@aik.com
3. Classic Motorbooks @ http:www.motorbooks.com
The best footage I have seen was a show on SpeedVision several years
ago on the 'History of Speed' series. It was based on the Standard
Triumph film 'Le Mans 1955'. The hour long show was hosted by Sam
Posey and had John Fitch on as a guest. John Fitch was the Mercedes
co-driver to Pierre Levegh who killed instantly when the Mercedes hit
the rear of Lance Macklin's Austin Healey [#26 - N0J 393 co-driven by
Les Leston]. I'm sure you know the story so I will not repeat it
here.
Posey and Fitch spend about 15 minutes discussing the accident and
considerable film footage is presented. Not having seen the original
Standard Triumph film, I'm not sure if what is shown on the History of
Speed show is all from that film-something tells me that considerable
footage came from some other source. If you contact SpeedVision
directly they may be able to clarify the sources of their show. You
may even be able to get a video copy of that particular show. On the
other hand, SpeedVision tends to rebroadcast many of there shows and
all you have to do is wait for a rerun.
Good Luck
Scott Morris
Simcoe, Ontario
--- Jim Hill <Jim_Hill@chsra.wisc.edu> wrote:
>
>
> Scott -
>
> I saw your recent note to the Healey list concerning the 1955 LeMans
> incident, and noted your comment with regard to the SpeedVision
> materials
> that:
>
> >All these films are available from
> >various film/video suppliers.
>
> While I've seen and taped many of the SpeedVision programs
> ("Gentleman's
> Motor Racing Diary", "Legends of Motorsport" and others), I'd be very
> interested in obtaining some of the films that might be commercially
> available (better quality, no commercials, etc.)
>
> Can you direct me to the names and/or addresses of any of the
> possible
> suppliers of these films?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Hill
> Madison WI
=====
J. Scott Morris
Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
__________________________________________________
Yahoo! Photos -- now, 100 FREE prints!
http://photos.yahoo.com
From howard young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
Date: Sun, 04 Jun 2000 13:58:16 -0500
Subject: Re: Kingpin
Read The Manual!?!
HoYo
dickb@cheerful.com wrote:
> Pardon my ignorance, but
>
> What's an RTM repair?
>
> DickB
>
> ---- you wrote:
> >
> > Eyvind Larssen wrote:
> >
> > > Hmm....
> > > Seems there is a slack in my kingpins/bolts... but its vertically... NOT
>horisontally..... what is the beste approach?... Should I try to tighten the
>topnut..og do I need to dismount and build up with shims??... I dont expect i
>need to change the bushings as there is no horisontal movement at all....
>anyone?
> > >
> > > Eyvind Larssen 60BT7
> >
> > The vertical play in the king pin is adjusted by using different thickness
>staybrite washers under the upper trunnion. This is an RTM repair.
> > --
> > Regards,
> >
> > Mike Salter
> > http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> > >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> >
> >
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
From "R. Markl/B. Council" <rmarkl at bellsouth.net>
Date: Sun, 04 Jun 2000 14:01:46 -0500
Subject: Re: Food For Thought
Gary,
Yes, we may be getting old chronologically (though not in spirit, so
long as we drive these fabulous cars). But I'm glad there are others
who miss the positive aspects of the "good old days", when it was far
more common for people to have self respect, as well as consideration
for others. (Styles may change, but manners are timeless - or should
be.) In another twenty years nobody will be alive who remembers that
there was a time when men took their hats off when they came indoors -
and people wouldn't any more dream of putting their shoes on the
furniture than putting them on someone's lbc.
Rudi Markl, 100M
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 6/2/00 3:31:30 PM, dwflagg@juno.com writes:
>
> << When he engaged them in conversation
> about the Healey they said "They must not have known how to design cars
> back then." Of course they were driving a CRX with the 4" tailpipes, etc.
> Is this a sign of things to come? >>
>
> Of course, we didn't know how to dress back then, either, insisting on
> wearing unusual garments like chinos, madras shirts, and Bass Weejuns. If our
> pants slipped to the point that we were walking on the cuffs and our boxer
> shorts showed at the top, we would get sent home from school until we learned
> how to dress properly. If we wore a baseball cap, it was to play baseball and
> the brim was intended to keep the sun out of our eyes, not off the back of
> our necks. And we took it off when we came indoors, certainly not wearing it
> while we ate dinner in a restaurant.
>
> Or am I just getting old?
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Sun, 4 Jun 2000 15:20:00 EDT
Subject: Fwd: Exhaust Note Turnoff
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To: JSoderling@aol.com
From: greg kaufman <gregk@batnet.com>
Subject: Re: Fwd: Exhaust Note Turnoff
X-Mailer: Unknown
Hi John,
Great observation & comment. She could have 2 nice
Healey drivers for the price she paid for that
testosteroneless Z!
>Greg,
>Ever pull your Harley-D in along side a big highway cruiser and expect
>something better from the exhaust?
>John
>100-Six Erika the Red
>
>
>Return-path: <JSoderling@aol.com>
>From: JSoderling@aol.com
>Full-name: JSoderling
>Message-ID: <c3.633543f.266ac2ce@aol.com>
>Date: Sat, 3 Jun 2000 16:21:34 EDT
>Subject: Exhaust Note Turnoff
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>MIME-Version: 1.0
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
>Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
>X-Mailer: AOL 5.0 for Windows sub 104
>
>Drove into the Club parking lot today with my "Erika the Red" resonating her
>usual deep-throated, long-stroke six exhaust note, and pulled into a parking
>space next to a sexy looking BMW Z3. Erika took a long lusty glance at the
>buffed Z3.
>
>As I was about to get out, a nice looking female hard body came out from the
>fitness center with a "workout glow", smiled and with a little condescending
>wiggle of her derriere, jumped into her new yuppie Z3. So far so good.
>
>Then she started it up and gave it a little blip on the throttle, and I
>nearly lost my "cookies"!!! Even Erika gave a little shuttle shake! That
>thing sounded like a sick Yugo four banger as it sounded it's tinny weak
>exhaust note!
>
>Both Erika and I agreed that neither the Z3 or the hard body looked good when
>your puking. Who would pay $30,000 plus for something that sounded as weak
>as that.? Thank goodness for the Big Healey exhaust note!
>
>John
>100-Six Erika the Red
--part1_a4.534dfa9.266c05e0_boundary--
From "F. Ronald Rader" <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Sun, 04 Jun 2000 12:44:54 -0700
Subject: CA Black Plate Question
Listers:
On the theory that I will soon be able to use my pristine black plates
on my 1965 BJ8.....
Does the stick-on label go on the upper right corner of the rear plate?
Where can I find one of those pop up holders for the correct current
year sticker?
Thanks
Ron Rader
From Brian Mix <brianmix at home.com>
Date: Sun, 04 Jun 2000 13:50:01 -0700
Subject: Re: CA Black Plate Question
At 12:44 PM 6/4/00 -0700, F. Ronald Rader wrote:
>
>Listers:
>
>On the theory that I will soon be able to use my pristine black plates
>on my 1965 BJ8.....
>
>Does the stick-on label go on the upper right corner of the rear plate?
>Where can I find one of those pop up holders for the correct current
>year sticker?
>
>Thanks
>Ron Rader
>
The DMV will send you one when you successfully register your Year of Issue
plate.
Theroretically,
Brian Mix
'55 AH-100 LeMans
http://www.mixed-media.net/100Lemans/
Vice-President Austin Healey Club of San Diego http://www.sdhealey.org/
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sun, 4 Jun 2000 16:51:54 EDT
Subject: San Diego Healeys on Green
Sorry to bomb the list, but would someone who attended Healeys on the Green
in San Diego please send me a paragraph or two about the meet -- where, when,
how many cars, anything interesting that took place. Also, would whoever
emailed me the pictures please identify themselves again. Their original
email (though the pictures came through just fine) has disappeared from my
file folders.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
British Car Magazine
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sun, 4 Jun 2000 16:57:23 EDT
Subject: Re: Battery Questions
In a message dated 6/3/00 10:46:23 PM, dickb@cheerful.com writes:
<<
Gary - with all due respect, I don't think you meant that.
If his Healey is Positive ground you will have both sides of the Donor
battery connected to the Positive pole of the Healey battery. Ground and the
Positive pole are the same - No?
Dick >>
Sorry, maybe I should have been more generic by saying that the batteries
need to be hooked up in parallel, but the last connnection should be made to
chassis, not to the battery to avoid risk of explosion. That would require
noting which pole is hooked to the chassis and making that the last hook-up
of the four, but hooking to chassis, not to battery.
Cheers
Gary
From RobertH148 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 4 Jun 2000 16:57:30 EDT
Subject: Re: CA Black Plate Question
I have the original black plates on my 1960 3000.
The stickers are just like current plates.
The month goes on the upper left and the year on the right.
Bob Humphreys
From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 4 Jun 2000 17:00:44 EDT
Subject: Re: Food For Thought
In a message dated 06/02/2000 7:06:50 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
neilberg@telus.net writes:
<< I have never had at a show or on the street anyone
say anything but praise for the styling of the car. >>
I did once. A girlfriend of mine said once that she thought my car looked
stodgey. She didn't like it. I guess that is why she is my ex-girlfriend.
Other ex-girlfriends didn't like the car, but that was mostly because they
were jelous of the thing since, "I spend more time with THAT CAR than you do
with me." I can handle only one high maintenance thing in my life at a time,
and...well...the car tends to win. ;o)
Tim Wallace
'67 BJ8
Fuquay-Varina, NC
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Sun, 4 Jun 2000 18:54:25 EDT
Subject: Re: Kingpin
In a message dated 06/04/2000 1:59:38 PM Central Daylight Time,
hoyo@bellsouth.net writes:
<<
Read The Manual!?!
HoYo
dickb@cheerful.com wrote:
> Pardon my ignorance, but
>
> What's an RTM repair?
> >>
NAH, HoYo: Regular Timed Maint..............nope, can't finish cause I'm
ROTFLMAO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Ed
From "T.R. Householder" <trhouse at greenapple.com>
Date: Sun, 04 Jun 2000 20:15:52 -0400
Subject: Re: Healey story
Need a good British car consultant in the Sacramento Calif area. aluminum
experience a must.
T.R.
"Keith R. Pennell" wrote:
> Just a cute story on misidentification . . .
>
> Went out last nite to a Healey club function in the BN7 but arrived too
> late and everyone was gone. So I decided to go to the local short track
> to watch a friend run his Baby Grand. He is also a Healey owner.
>
> Was not too keen on leaving the BN7 in the parking lot, but did not have
> time to go home for another vehicle. So I parked it in a somewhat
> remote area and just accepted it would get a bit dusty from parking lot
> dust.
>
> At the end of the races returned to the car, all seemed just fine. As I
> was cutting the battery switch back on and getting into the car, some
> young kids close by asked if it was a Cobra. I smiled taking it as a
> compliment and not their ingorance and said "No"
>
> Then a young guy and his girlfriend walk by and he asks "Is it a kit?"
> Trying not to sound a bit miffed I responded "No, it's the real thing!"
> As he walked on further I heard him say to his lady "Sunbeam Tiger" . .
> . . I said nothing.
>
> Keith Pennell
> AH 3000 BN7 or Cobra or Sunbeam Tiger or something
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Sun, 4 Jun 2000 20:35:25 EDT
Subject: Re: Re: Exhaust Note Turnoff
Ok, Yes the BMW roadster type device sounds kinda lame, and is ugly as sin.
The sound isn't what makes it go.
That little bugger, even it's base configuration has more power/displacement,
speed, handling, comfort, and safety than our Healeys.
Rick
San Diego
In a message dated 6/4/00 7:57:56 AM, coop1@dnai.com wrote:
<<
Yep, especially through a Monza system. Now that's an exhaust note!
Coop
> Both Erika and I agreed that neither the Z3 or the hard body looked good
when
> your puking. Who would pay $30,000 plus for something that sounded as
weak
> as that.? Thank goodness for the Big Healey exhaust note!
>
> John
> 100-Six Erika the Red
>>>
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Sun, 4 Jun 2000 21:39:12 EDT
Subject: BN1 Wiper
Is there any way of making my wiper self-parking and/or is it possible to
adapt a BN2 or later wiper to my car?
Michael
From "T.R. Householder" <trhouse at greenapple.com>
Date: Sun, 04 Jun 2000 21:56:37 -0400
Subject: Re: Styling for the Austin Healey
I believe the Healey is introduced in Nov of 1952. The Corvette in 1953. I
have the stories in the magazine collection here and followed the design trail
of a marque known as the Swallow Doretti . Triumph powered Ferarri /Healey
looking sort of thing.This starts in 1952 at Earls Court where the Healey is
presented. I only recall the sequence because the Marque II Doretti comes out
after the Doretti designer was here with the finished Prototype Mk I, in Sept
of 53 . On his return he starts the design of the MKII That utilizes the tail
light configuration on the Corvette he saw at the auto show here. MY Humble
opinion . Might be wrong . They all were going after the Itallian influence
though .So who plagerized who is a never ending story.
T.R. Householder
"Keith R. Pennell" wrote:
> Don Yarber wrote:
> >
> > I guess that the young people didn't know that General Motors "copied" the
> > Austin Healey for the first Corvette body style.
> >
> > Don
> > BN7
>
> Don,
>
> But didn't the first Vette (53?) come out before Donald's car opened at
> the Earl's Court(?) show?
>
> Keith Pennell
From Jerry Rude <gdrude at pacbell.net>
Date: Sun, 04 Jun 2000 18:38:48 -0700
Subject: Re: CA Black Plate Question
Ron,
For Year of Manufacture Plates, they gave me a small black piece of sheet
metal which bolts to the upper right of the license plate. The right
sticker has both the year and the month on it (if you get it from Sacto),
if you get a sticker from the local DMV, they will give you only the
standard two: one month, one year.
I have the YOM plates on my 51 Ford.
Jerry Rude
BJ8
"F. Ronald Rader" wrote:
> Listers:
>
> On the theory that I will soon be able to use my pristine black plates
> on my 1965 BJ8.....
>
> Does the stick-on label go on the upper right corner of the rear plate?
> Where can I find one of those pop up holders for the correct current
> year sticker?
>
> Thanks
> Ron Rader
From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 4 Jun 2000 21:59:32 EDT
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note Turnoff
In a message dated 6/4/00 7:46:38 PM Central Daylight Time, WilKo@aol.com
writes:
<< That little bugger, even it's base configuration has more
power/displacement,
speed, handling, comfort, and safety than our Healeys.
>>
Yeah, but it does not have the class of a Healey...nor do many of their
drivers have the class of a Healey driver.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Sun, 4 Jun 2000 22:40:22 EDT
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note Turnoff
Chris,
You are so right.!! No comparison.
John
100-Six Erika the Red
From "T.R. Householder" <trhouse at greenapple.com>
Date: Sun, 04 Jun 2000 20:50:53 -0400
Subject: Help in Sacramento needed!
"T.R. Householder" wrote:
> Need a good British car consultant in the Sacramento Calif area. aluminum
> experience a must.
>
> T.R.
>
> "Keith R. Pennell" wrote:
>
> > Just a cute story on misidentification . . .
> >
> > Went out last nite to a Healey club function in the BN7 but arrived too
> > late and everyone was gone. So I decided to go to the local short track
> > to watch a friend run his Baby Grand. He is also a Healey owner.
> >
> > Was not too keen on leaving the BN7 in the parking lot, but did not have
> > time to go home for another vehicle. So I parked it in a somewhat
> > remote area and just accepted it would get a bit dusty from parking lot
> > dust.
> >
> > At the end of the races returned to the car, all seemed just fine. As I
> > was cutting the battery switch back on and getting into the car, some
> > young kids close by asked if it was a Cobra. I smiled taking it as a
> > compliment and not their ingorance and said "No"
> >
> > Then a young guy and his girlfriend walk by and he asks "Is it a kit?"
> > Trying not to sound a bit miffed I responded "No, it's the real thing!"
> > As he walked on further I heard him say to his lady "Sunbeam Tiger" . .
> > . . I said nothing.
> >
> > Keith Pennell
> > AH 3000 BN7 or Cobra or Sunbeam Tiger or something
From "F. Ronald Rader" <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Sun, 04 Jun 2000 21:45:17 -0700
Subject: Re: CA Black Plate Question
Alan:
Thanks for the advice. I had previously tried to register these "clean" 1965
plates.
You are right. I could not. Presently there is a bill at the state assembly (AB
2058 Mike Briggs R Clovis)
to allow the use of YOM plates up 'til 1974 instead of 1963 as presently
allowed. It passed the assembly unanimously and is now on its way to the CA
senate, according to Healey Hearsay the monthly magazine of the AH Club of San
Diego.
I have been driving my car with 3 year old out of state plates since I bought
it last September. I have paid all of the fees but just recently finished with
the CHP (as required by the DMV for out of state cars). I am tempted to try
these black plates on the highway while I wait for the law to change. I am
going to get the correct plates this week. They will look great in my trunk.
Ron Rader
1965 BJ8
Alan wrote:
> Don't have an answer to your question, but I thought I'd give you a
> heads up on the black plate thing (I haven't been following the threads
> lately, so if this is already something that has been discussed, I
> apologize). The DMV will allow you to re-register cars *IF* you are
> re-registering them with YOM (year of manufactuer) plates. The last
> year that this was available was 1962. Basically these are 1956 black
> on yellow plates, with a 1962 sticker on them. In 1963 they went with
> the yellow on black plates that you have. These are not, according to
> the DMV code, plates which qualify for the re-registering policy. Sooo,
> before you investigate where you place the registration sticker, you
> probably want to get a definitive answer as to whether or not you can
> use the plates. My understanding, and I did a lot of research, is that
> you cannot. BTW, the only DMV guys that *really* know what they are
> talking about in this area are the guys that handle the vanity plates in
> Sacramento. The DMV can give you their 916 phone number. Give them a
> call and they'll be able to fill you in. They also can tell you if the
> plates you want to use (if my understanding is wrong) are currently in
> use. I found them to be pretty nice and helpfull... the other DMV guys
> were idiots. I had a hell of a time just getting the car register because
> the lady told me that the VIN number wasn't complete and hence I could not
> register the car. I had to explain to her that HBTL...... was the way they
> did the numbers back then!
>
> Good luck.... and I'd like to hear if I'm wrong.
> --Alan
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of F. Ronald Rader
> Sent: Sunday, June 04, 2000 12:45 PM
> To: Healey, List
> Subject: CA Black Plate Question
>
> Listers:
>
> On the theory that I will soon be able to use my pristine black plates
> on my 1965 BJ8.....
>
> Does the stick-on label go on the upper right corner of the rear plate?
> Where can I find one of those pop up holders for the correct current
> year sticker?
>
> Thanks
> Ron Rader
From "Patrick QUINN" <QUINNP at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Mon, 05 Jun 2000 15:00:52 +1000
Subject: Re: Styling for the Austin Healey
Greetings
I don't think that any amount of wishful thinking or otherwise would lead to a
connection between the Austin-Healey and the Corvette.
We know that the AH was first shown to the public at the London Motor Show in
Earls Court in the Northern spring of 1952 and the Corvette, very much in
prototype form was the star of the GM Motorama of January 1953 at the Waldorf
Astoria in New York.
To look at history it is clear that the Corvette came about due to changing
trends, especially post WW2 when foreign sports cars started to find their way
on to the US market. Then came a number of US vehicles like the Kurtis-Kraft,
Crosley Hot Shot/SuperSports and the Kaiser-Darrin. Initially the big makers
didn't take much notice until Jaguar launched their XK120. This was something
different as it was a sports car from a manufacturer of luxury sedans.
If we go back a few years before that there is a connection between Corvette
and Healey but not Austin-Healey. History tells us that both Harley Earl and Ed
Cole of GM were quite impressed with the Nash Healey and especially its success
at Le Mans. The influence on the Corvette by the Nash Healey has been largely
forgotten and the combination of European style and US mechanicals played a
significant role for many years.
It will come as no surprise that the first Corvette was built on the same
102inch wheelbase as the XK120.
There is another interesting (dis)connection here. The AC/Shelby Cobra did in
fact come from the AC Ace which inturn was initially designed by John Tojeiro
after the car he designed himself and called simple the Tojeiro. However
vehicle designers are an incestuous lot as the body of the Tojeiro was based on
an early 1950s Ferrari Barchetta, the chassis on a Cooper and the front
suspension from a Fiat 500. All of which carried over to the earlier Cobras.
Before finding success with AC, Carroll Shelby also approached a number of
manufacturers with a view of fitting a Ford V8 into a European chassis/body.
These included BMC and the Donald Healey Motor Company who wouldn't or couldn't
help.
Healey History is fascinating.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
>>> Don Yarber 3/06/01 10:37:46 >>>
I guess that the young people didn't know that General Motors "copied" the
Austin Healey for the first Corvette body style.
Don
BN7
From "Patrick QUINN" <QUINNP at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Mon, 05 Jun 2000 16:12:51 +1000
Subject: Re: Styling for the Austin Healey
Hi
I don't know if the chassis came from a pickup or if the engine also was used
in such a vehicle but the initial Corvette engine was a 235ci straight six
which put out a hardly exciting 105bhp. However with a little tricky work on
the camshaft, valve springs, cylinder head, carbs and solid lifters this was
increased to a reasonable 150bhp at 4,500 rpm. Transmission was Chevrolet's two
speed Powerglide. Good auto box but not very inspiring.
Regards
Patrick
>>> Roland Wilhelmy 5/06/00 15:32:11 >>>
My understanding is that the early Corvettes chassis was based on the
Chevrolet light pickup truck chassis. I don't know whether the truck
frame had the same wheelbase or not, but I believe that the running
gear was definitely truck.
-Roland
On Mon, 05 Jun 2000 15:00:52 +1000, you wrote:
:: It will come as no surprise that the first Corvette was built on the same
:102inch wheelbase as the XK120.
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 03:38:51 -0500
Subject: Re: Styling for the Austin Healey
Hey Patrick.... Kind of a funny twist to this GM 6 cylinder story.... bout
10 yrs ago when I first got into this Bonneville thing I called the Leading
6 cylinder guy in the Bonneville racing scene.... his Name is Doug Robinson
of Horsepower Engineering.... We had a couple of really interesting
conversations about the Healey Six.... We talked about what was good and bad
about racing a One off engine like these and the associated costs.... The
guy knew Six Cylinders like the back of his hand.... His Car is the BMR
coupe... a Very Low Yellow 32 Ford 5 window coupe with a GMC six..... This
last year it went 213mph at Muroc dry lake.... with a Turbo charger on the
front that is the size of Chicago.
Keith Turk....
----- Original Message -----
From: Patrick QUINN <QUINNP@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>; <rwil@cts.com>
Sent: Monday, June 05, 2000 1:12 AM
Subject: Re: Styling for the Austin Healey
>
> Hi
>
> I don't know if the chassis came from a pickup or if the engine also was
used in such a vehicle but the initial Corvette engine was a 235ci straight
six which put out a hardly exciting 105bhp. However with a little tricky
work on the camshaft, valve springs, cylinder head, carbs and solid lifters
this was increased to a reasonable 150bhp at 4,500 rpm. Transmission was
Chevrolet's two speed Powerglide. Good auto box but not very inspiring.
>
> Regards
>
> Patrick
>
> >>> Roland Wilhelmy 5/06/00 15:32:11 >>>
> My understanding is that the early Corvettes chassis was based on the
> Chevrolet light pickup truck chassis. I don't know whether the truck
> frame had the same wheelbase or not, but I believe that the running
> gear was definitely truck.
>
> -Roland
>
> On Mon, 05 Jun 2000 15:00:52 +1000, you wrote:
>
> :: It will come as no surprise that the first Corvette was built on the
same 102inch wheelbase as the XK120.
>
>
>
>
>
From "Lance Werner" <brshwrks at bellatlantic.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 06:29:01 -0400
Subject: Re: Kingpin
Hi Mike:
I'm in the process of rebuilding the front end on our bn1. What do you mean
by "RTM repair"? TIA
lance
54 bn1
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Salter <magicare@home.com>
To: Eyvind Larssen <seel@online.no>
Cc: Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, June 04, 2000 8:08 AM
Subject: Re: Kingpin
>
> Eyvind Larssen wrote:
>
> > Hmm....
> > Seems there is a slack in my kingpins/bolts... but its vertically... NOT
horisontally..... what is the beste approach?... Should I try to tighten the
topnut..og do I need to dismount and build up with shims??... I dont expect
i need to change the bushings as there is no horisontal movement at all....
anyone?
> >
> > Eyvind Larssen 60BT7
>
> The vertical play in the king pin is adjusted by using different
thickness staybrite washers under the upper trunnion. This is an RTM repair.
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
>
>
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 06:08:07 -0400
Subject: Kingpin
Somebody wrote:
Seems there is a slack in my kingpins/bolts... but its vertically... NOT
horisontally.....
Sounds like a personal problem to me.
Don
BN7
From "Scheuble, Fred J., HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 09:06:01 -0400
Subject: paint code
Hi All,
does anyone know the paint code for Colorado Red
Thanks,
Fred
From "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec at globalserve.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 09:51:01 -0400
Subject: Re: Battery Questions
Does this beat a $5 multimeter from China?
Mike L
60A,67E,59Bug
----- Original Message -----
From: Lee S. Mairs <lmairs@ix.netcom.com>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <rader@interworld.net>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: June 4, 2000 8:02 AM
Subject: Re: Battery Questions
> Here is a tip for an inexpensive testing tool to help you out.
Got to Radio
> Shack and buy a small 12 volt DC bulb with leads attached.
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Mon, 05 Jun 2000 10:51:56 -0400
Subject: Re: paint code
"Scheuble, Fred J., HiServ/NA" wrote:
> Hi All,
> does anyone know the paint code for Colorado Red
>
> Thanks,
> Fred
ICI 3742
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From Reid Trummel <rtrummel at san.osd.mil>
Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 15:52:53 -0000
Subject: FW: Help - Healey Part.
Hi all,
Perhaps someone has an extra chrome ring for Bob? Thanks.
Cheers,
Reid
-----Original Message-----
From: Brown, Bob J [SMTP:BJBrown@pinacor.com]
Sent: Friday, June 02, 2000 17:34
To: 'reidt@healey.org'
Subject: Help - Healey Part..
Hi Reid,
I have been a member of the club for a couple of years now and I am
restoring a BN4L and need a part to finish it - Perhaps you will know where
I might find it? I am looking for the chrome oval trim on the dash that
encircles the steering column. Any help would be appreciated. I have
tried Moss and the outfit in Stockton (Norman Nock) and neither had it.
Thanks,
Bob Brown
GIlbert, AZ
480.497.4898
From ccruz at tribune.com
Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 10:46:00 -0500
Subject: Food For Thought
<< I'm glad there are others who miss the positive aspects of the
"good old days", when it was far more common for people to have self
respect, as well as consideration for others. (Styles may change, but
manners are timeless - or should be.) In another twenty years nobody
will be alive who remembers that there was a time when men took their
hats off when they came indoors >>
Sorry to burst the bubble with the "older" (term used with the utmost
respect) Gentlemen in this group but, "manners are timeless" and have
nothing to do with age or by-gone days. My ninety year-old
grandfather (still alive and kicking anyone who wears a hat indoors)
would not hesitate to ask someone to remove their hat when inside let
alone at the dinning table. Manners/respect like this are passed onto
the next generation by example not lecture. I pass these onto my five
year old son in ways similar to how I was brought up.
Therefore my theory on this subject is that the aggregate number of
people who consistently demonstrate good manners and respect for other
has not changed substantially in the last 100 years. What has changed
is the world's population. It's this increase that makes it appear as
though manners and respect are disappearing. It's this that increases
the odds of running into a disrespectful, manner-lacking individual.
Best regards,
Carlos Cruz
PS: The Pinkie was in the air the entire time I wrote this ;-)
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 12:14:53 EDT
Subject: Re: Re: Exhaust Note Turnoff
In a message dated 6/4/00 5:51:30 PM, WilKo@aol.com writes:
<< That little bugger, even it's base configuration has more
power/displacement,
speed, handling, comfort, and safety than our Healeys. >>
And your point is...?
Cheers
Gary Anderson
p.s. It still looks like a Miata on steroids, i.e. it's ugly.
From Todd S Taylor <todd.s.taylor at lmco.com>
Date: Mon, 05 Jun 2000 12:26:35 -0400
Subject: Re: sills
I guess I can't send attached pics. so:
http://web.a-znet.com/tstaylor/sill1.jpg is a picture of what was
left of the passenger side sill when I cut it out...
you can see there wasn't anything to save and nothing to worry about
refitting another one just go for it..
http://web.a-znet.com/tstaylor/shut1.jpg is a picture of the new sill
floor out-riggers etc.... before everything is welded in.
http://web.a-znet.com/tstaylor/shut2.jpg just another angle. you
can see right through the shut plate which also has to
be re-placed. The drivers side of this car was about the same and since
has been re-paired the best it could have been anyway.
So in my case I can't save much of anything.... what a puzzle...
I'm assembling as much as I can before welding things down for fit.
Will this car ever be a show car .... no
but I'll get to drive it around the block hopefully this year
again..... I don't have many pictures before a cut off the
out-riggers
and sills..... I hope it fits ok when I'm done..... Mechanically
the cars all there.....it starts right up...
send your comments!...... this is a project car! Todd....
1959 100-6 (what a mess)
1980 MGB limited
1996 Audi A4
From "Ron Schonscheck" <schonny at y2consult.com>
Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 10:21:30 -0600
Subject: Re: Styling for the Austin Healey
Thanks Pat for some very interesting details.
----- Original Message -----
From: Patrick QUINN <QUINNP@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, June 04, 2000 11:00 PM
Subject: Re: Styling for the Austin Healey
>
> Greetings
>
> I don't think that any amount of wishful thinking or otherwise would lead
to a connection between the Austin-Healey and the Corvette.
>
> We know that the AH was first shown to the public at the London Motor Show
in Earls Court in the Northern spring of 1952 and the Corvette, very much in
prototype form was the star of the GM Motorama of January 1953 at the
Waldorf Astoria in New York.
>
> To look at history it is clear that the Corvette came about due to
changing trends, especially post WW2 when foreign sports cars started to
find their way on to the US market. Then came a number of US vehicles like
the Kurtis-Kraft, Crosley Hot Shot/SuperSports and the Kaiser-Darrin.
Initially the big makers didn't take much notice until Jaguar launched their
XK120. This was something different as it was a sports car from a
manufacturer of luxury sedans.
>
> If we go back a few years before that there is a connection between
Corvette and Healey but not Austin-Healey. History tells us that both Harley
Earl and Ed Cole of GM were quite impressed with the Nash Healey and
especially its success at Le Mans. The influence on the Corvette by the Nash
Healey has been largely forgotten and the combination of European style and
US mechanicals played a significant role for many years.
>
> It will come as no surprise that the first Corvette was built on the same
102inch wheelbase as the XK120.
>
> There is another interesting (dis)connection here. The AC/Shelby Cobra did
in fact come from the AC Ace which inturn was initially designed by John
Tojeiro after the car he designed himself and called simple the Tojeiro.
However vehicle designers are an incestuous lot as the body of the Tojeiro
was based on an early 1950s Ferrari Barchetta, the chassis on a Cooper and
the front suspension from a Fiat 500. All of which carried over to the
earlier Cobras.
>
> Before finding success with AC, Carroll Shelby also approached a number of
manufacturers with a view of fitting a Ford V8 into a European chassis/body.
These included BMC and the Donald Healey Motor Company who wouldn't or
couldn't help.
>
> Healey History is fascinating.
>
> Regards
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
>
> 1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
> 1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
>
> >>> Don Yarber 3/06/01 10:37:46 >>>
>
> I guess that the young people didn't know that General Motors "copied" the
> Austin Healey for the first Corvette body style.
>
> Don
> BN7
>
>
>
>
From John Harper <john at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 17:41:22 +0100
Subject: Re: BN1 Wiper
Michael
The most obvious solution is to fit a full BN2 set up but this may be
more of a problem than you might expect.
The main problem is that the motor mounting brackets on the BN1 and BN2
are quite different and worse they are welded to the side wall of the
inner compartment. It would be quite a major job to change this. It
might be possible to mount the BN2 motor on a BN1 bracket by drilling
extra holes but then you will still get a poor cable run unless you pack
the motor or bend the bracket.
Another problem is that you will have to run a third, live, wire to the
motor and change one of the on/off switch connections to frame rather
than the supply.
It could all be done but on the other hand it is quite a lot of work.
I
>Is there any way of making my wiper self-parking and/or is it possible to
>adapt a BN2 or later wiper to my car?
>
--
John Harper
From Jimmysmth at aol.com
Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 13:43:47 EDT
Subject: Re: sills
In a message dated 6/5/00 12:55:18 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
todd.s.taylor@lmco.com writes:
<< Will this car ever be a show car .... no >>
Todd: You asked for comments, so here's my $.02.
I have seen several projects like yours or even worse, which ended up as
respectable show cars. Just make sure the fit of the doors and fenders etc.
is good before final welding and that the result is structurally sound. Once
you finish the welding, you might consider having the whole chassis
sandblasted then promptly protect with DP40 then paint.
Good Luck
Jim
From "Michael Lempert" <mdlempert at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 13:53:52 -0400
Subject: Bugeye Stance
My "new" Bugeye appears to be sitting too high. Oddly, the left side is
even a little higher than the right. I would prefer a lower stance as I
believe is proper.
Also (and maybe related), I'm not experiencing the level of stiffness I
expected from the ride. Cornering is sloppy with a good deal of dip in the
front end. I replaced the front shocks with a rebuilt (heavy duty) pair
from Apple Hydraulics. The soft cornering persists.
Does this sound like a spring issue ? I would like to achieve a low stance
with stiffer suspension for better cornering. All advice appreciated.
Regards,
Mike L. (the original Mike L. who had no part in that red light thread)
Bridgewater, NJ
'56 BN2
'59 BN7
'60 BT7
'60 Bugeye
'70 E-Type
'79 Midget
From "Michael Lempert" <mdlempert at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 13:57:06 -0400
Subject: South Carolina Mechanic
Anyone know of a good LBC mechanic in the Charleston - Mount Pleasant,
South Carolina area ? Any listers in the area ?
Regards,
Mike L.
Bridgewater, NJ
'56 BN2
'59 BN7
'60 BT7
'60 Bugeye
'70 E-Type
'79 Midget
From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 19:09:07 +0100
Subject: Removing tonneau studs from BJ8 dash-top
As a result of doing a LHD/RHD conversion on a BJ8 I am having a new
tonneau made. I now realise that the zip(per) in the tonneau is not
central, and therefore the two studs in the dash-top (near the dash-top
mirror) are offset.
Can I remove and re-site these studs without removing the dash-top? Do
they just self-tap into the metal, or are there nuts and washers
underneath?. I'd hate to start unscrewing, only to hear that dreaded
tinkling sound of bits falling heaven-knows-where, and the promise of a
major disassembly to complete the job. I know that one day I'll have to
recover the dash-top to hide the old holes, but that's for the future.
If I do have to remove the dash-top to re-site the studs, what is
involved?
Any advice from any one who's "been there, done that" would be
appreciated.
Alan F Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK
H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny"
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 13:36:29 -0500
Subject: Aluminum type on Shrouds?
Hi,
Can someone advise what alloy was used on the front and rear shrouds on the
Healeys? Is there a close match in annealing behavior to a standard alloy?
Alternatively, what is the correct annealing temperature for our alloy?
Any added info on dwell time for stress-relief annealing would be
appreciated. It appears that cooling rate is not important.
Thanks,
Adnan
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 14:32:43 -0400
Subject: Re cleaning solution ppg product info
Listers, I have found ppg's site ,It is very extensive and loaded with info
. It will take time to find what you may need, but believe me its there!
http://www.ppg.com/car_autorefinish/refinish.htm Product info page
http://www.ppg.com/cr-refinish/phase1/frmProductInfo.asp
Here you can type in product to get tech pages and instructions
http://www.ppg.com/cr-refinish/phase1/frmFindDistributor.asp
This page lets you locate a distributor in your country/state/ect.
I hope this info is useful to all. It is an exellent site and loads of info
for do it yourselfers and pro fessionals alike
Regards,
Carroll Phillps
Top Down Restorations Inc.
From Mark Fawcett <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
Date: Mon, 05 Jun 2000 12:18:37 -0700
Subject: Pertronix Ignitors for 6 cyl Healeys
For those on the list that want never to change or adjust points again I
have the following info regarding Pertronix ignitions for the 6 cylinder
cars. Moss only offers an Ignitor for the BJ7 and BJ8 25D6 distributor
. I went to Pertronix in San Dimas, Ca. and they were able to fit my
earlier DM6A with the proper electronic unit.
For positive ground use part number LU-165P12
For negative ground use part number LU165
For the 25D w/ pos grnd use # LU162AP12
For the 25D w/ neg grnd use # LU162A
If you tell them your distributor model # (DM6 or DM6A) their catalog
does not list it. Their catalog shows it for model # DMBZ6A w/ vacuum.
Don't order from Pertronix directly. They can only sell at the
suggested retail price, which is higher than you would pay if you order
it from a local supplier. (Pertronix told me this). You can call
Pertronix @ 800 827 3758 and they will give you a vendor in your area.
I also don't recommend Moss as their price is high as well.
Mark Fawcett
60 BT7 in progress
From "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec at globalserve.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 15:34:02 -0400
Subject: Re: Bugeye Stance
On my Bugeye stock restoration I swapped left and right front coil
springs and put in new 10 leaf rear springs (couldn't find the
15's). No sway bar.
Car sits empty measured to the lower finished sill line inside the
wheel arches -
Left front 7.0 in
Right front 6.75 in
Left rear 7.5 in
Right rear 8.0 in
I was looking for a slight high bias on the left side to
compensate for the driver only configuration. I swapped the new
rear springs but still couldn't get rid of the rear slight high
right side bias.
The wheel well to tire gap runs 3.5 inches in the rear and 2.25
inches in the front. I have never been offended by the overall
stance of the car. My handling I would best describe as a very
stiff in the rear and firm in the front.
I have never considered the stock Bugeye a "sports car" with its
threaded fulcrum front suspension, 1/4 ellipticals, twitchy rack,
mickey mouse brakes, 43 HP motor (when fresh) and that huge gap
between second and third gears. Even my friend's Mark III is a
huge improvement.
But properly restored it's the world's greatest gocart - direct
connect to the road, loads of fun to drive and gets more
unsolicited attention and makes more friends on the road than
anything else on four wheels. Eat your heart out Lambos, Hummers,
F40's - who has hugged your headlamp lately?
Not the original Mike L.
60A,67E,59Bug
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Lempert <mdlempert@worldnet.att.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: June 5, 2000 1:53 PM
Subject: Bugeye Stance
>
> My "new" Bugeye appears to be sitting too high. Oddly, the
left side is
> even a little higher than the right. I would prefer a lower
stance as I
> believe is proper.
>
> Also (and maybe related), I'm not experiencing the level of
stiffness I
> expected from the ride. Cornering is sloppy with a good deal of
dip in the
> front end. I replaced the front shocks with a rebuilt (heavy
duty) pair
> from Apple Hydraulics. The soft cornering persists.
>
> Does this sound like a spring issue ? I would like to achieve a
low stance
> with stiffer suspension for better cornering. All advice
appreciated.
>
> Regards,
> Mike L. (the original Mike L. who had no part in that red light
thread)
> Bridgewater, NJ
> '56 BN2
> '59 BN7
> '60 BT7
> '60 Bugeye
> '70 E-Type
> '79 Midget
>
>
From TC <tm-c at gmx.net>
Date: Mon, 05 Jun 2000 21:44:08 +0200
Subject: Running Temps
Hi listers
what is the ideal range of temperatures for a BJ8 as far as water and
oil temp is concerned?
When is the engine considered warm and at running temperature?
Another thing.
When the engine is hot (comming back from a long drive on the highway)
the oil pressure while idling more or less disappears. Under load the
pressure is fine: when cold up to 60PSI and then dropping to 40PSI under
normal load and 20 idling.
Is this something to worry about or nothing to worry about?
Cheers
Tim
BJ8´67
From "Karlsson Magnus" <healey at telia.com>
Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 21:48:36 +0200
Subject: SV: Removing tonneau studs from BJ8 dash-top
Alan,
I´m afraid that you have to remove the dash top. It is quite simple though and
you shouldn´t worry too much about it. Remove the rear view mirror and a couple
of screws at each side near the quarter lights. You will then find the nuts
beeing made of pressed metal with studs that grips into the wood. These nuts
will have to be repositioned for your new holes.
Good luck
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
----- Original Message -----
From: Alan F Cross <alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 05, 2000 8:09 PM
Subject: Removing tonneau studs from BJ8 dash-top
>
> As a result of doing a LHD/RHD conversion on a BJ8 I am having a new
> tonneau made. I now realise that the zip(per) in the tonneau is not
> central, and therefore the two studs in the dash-top (near the dash-top
> mirror) are offset.
>
> Can I remove and re-site these studs without removing the dash-top? Do
> they just self-tap into the metal, or are there nuts and washers
> underneath?. I'd hate to start unscrewing, only to hear that dreaded
> tinkling sound of bits falling heaven-knows-where, and the promise of a
> major disassembly to complete the job. I know that one day I'll have to
> recover the dash-top to hide the old holes, but that's for the future.
> If I do have to remove the dash-top to re-site the studs, what is
> involved?
>
> Any advice from any one who's "been there, done that" would be
> appreciated.
> Alan F Cross
> Wokingham, Berkshire, UK
> H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny"
>
From costan0 at attglobal.net
Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 13:01:53 -0700
Subject: Austria and Switzerland and british cars
My wife tells me we are going on vacation to Austria and Switzerland this
summer (late June, early July). Does anyone have any good museums or auto
shows that should be seen? Or if you have any good places that you have
visited, let me know.
Jerry
From Brian Mix <brianmix at home.com>
Date: Mon, 05 Jun 2000 13:00:01 -0700
Subject: Piston deck height???
Hello,
My engine re-build saga continues. Block is repaired, yea!
Here is a question that I will try to communicate as clearly as possible:
It is apparent that my block had been shaved at some time, and was shaved some
more when it was re-sleeved.
When a 100-4 piston is at TDC, it appears even on a stock 100 that the piston
sticks out the top of the block a little bit. Not flush as one would expect.
Is there a spec. for how much the piston should rise above the deck height?
OR
How much is too far?
Has anybody ever measured this?
Brian
From "Scheuble, Fred J., HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 16:28:45 -0400
Subject: RE: Austria and Switzerland and british cars
does your wife know you want to go to cars shows during your vacation?!
-----Original Message-----
From: costan0@attglobal.net [mailto:costan0@attglobal.net]
Sent: Monday, June 05, 2000 4:02 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Austria and Switzerland and british cars
My wife tells me we are going on vacation to Austria and Switzerland this
summer (late June, early July). Does anyone have any good museums or auto
shows that should be seen? Or if you have any good places that you have
visited, let me know.
Jerry
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Mon, 05 Jun 2000 13:36:21 -0700
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note Turnoff
Hi all,
On a slightly different note, I'm thrilled to see ANY other sports cars
out on the road. It doesn't matter, if they are old, new, pretty, ugly,
fast, slow, loud or quiet. I figure it means one less SUV to contend
with and like a school of fish, there is safety in numbers. I usually
wave, nod or smile at other small sport car drivers at the traffic
lights and most return the gesture. Of course, I wouldn't trade my
Healey for what they are driving but I still imagine we have more in
common than not.
Regards,
John Loftus
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 6/4/00 5:51:30 PM, WilKo@aol.com writes:
>
> << That little bugger, even it's base configuration has more
> power/displacement,
> speed, handling, comfort, and safety than our Healeys. >>
>
> And your point is...?
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
>
> p.s. It still looks like a Miata on steroids, i.e. it's ugly.
From dwflagg at juno.com
Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 17:50:35 -0400
Subject: Re:
To those who had inquired about the hood cover and tonneau bag I ask that
you bear with me for a few days. My father passed away today and I will
be out of town until week's end. Thanks.
Doug
________________________________________________________________
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 17:48:22 EDT
Subject: Re: Dad
Hi Doug,
I'm so sorry to hear about your Dad.
One of my favorite pictures of my dad is when he sat in my Healey which I
bought when I came out of college in 1960. He has been gone almost 30 years
and I still miss tinkering in the workshop with him. My thoughts are with
you.
Rudy Streng in NC
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 15:25:02 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Food For Thought
Just last weekend my wife and I met some friends for
sushi. The resturant was 25 miles from the house, it
was a beautiful night, so we decided to leave the top
in the garage. About half way through the meal one
from the baggy pant generation came up to the table.
It was clear that he was uncomfortable. "is that
yyyour car sir? wow did it come with that leather
belt. it is so cool."
It was a nice compliment and proves that the Healey is
still a head turner to the younger generation.
Dean (still in my thirties)
__________________________________________________
Yahoo! Photos -- now, 100 FREE prints!
http://photos.yahoo.com
From gdrhodes at attglobal.net
Date: Mon, 05 Jun 2000 18:33:19 -0400
Subject: Vintage Tires (Tyres) for Concours - BJ8
I know that the original-spec bias ply tire is available - Dunlop
Roadspeed RS5 (590H15). However if I'm going to get the bias plys for
concours judging, I'd like to get it in whitewall since that is what the
car shipped with originally. Vintage Tyres in the UK is unable to supply
them and has told me that to their knowledge noone is producing a
whitewall. Does anyone on the list have any other or additional
knowledge? Any leads will be appreciated. Thanks.
Gayle Rhodes (1967 BJ8)
From dwflagg at juno.com
Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 18:10:09 -0400
Subject: Re:My Loss
Thank you to all who have expressed their condolences. Hopefully I will
be able to respond personally when I return.
Doug
________________________________________________________________
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 18:40:49 EDT
Subject: Re: Pertronix Ignitors for 6 cyl Healeys
In a message dated 06/05/2000 2:19:46 PM Central Daylight Time,
fawcett1@mediaone.net writes:
<< For those on the list that want never to change or adjust points again I
have the following info regarding Pertronix ignitions for the 6 cylinder
cars. Moss only offers an Ignitor for the BJ7 and BJ8 25D6 distributor
. I went to Pertronix in San Dimas, Ca. and they were able to fit my
earlier DM6A with the proper electronic unit.
For positive ground use part number LU-165P12
For negative ground use part number LU165
For the 25D w/ pos grnd use # LU162AP12
For the 25D w/ neg grnd use # LU162A
If you tell them your distributor model # (DM6 or DM6A) their catalog
does not list it. Their catalog shows it for model # DMBZ6A w/ vacuum.
Don't order from Pertronix directly. They can only sell at the
suggested retail price, which is higher than you would pay if you order
it from a local supplier. (Pertronix told me this). You can call
Pertronix @ 800 827 3758 and they will give you a vendor in your area.
I also don't recommend Moss as their price is high as well.
Mark Fawcett >>
Me, Mark. Have in stock.
Ed
From Bob Haskell <bhaskell at iquest.net>
Date: Mon, 05 Jun 2000 18:30:46 -0500
Subject: Caliper Bridge Bolts
I'm rebuilding the front disc brake calipers for my '60 BT7. Per the
early postings, the Healey workshop manual states that the caliper
should not be split. The MGB workshop manuas states that the caliper
can be split, but the bridge bolts and the square cut o-ring must be
replaced.
Does anyone know of a source for the OEM bridge bolts? Girling/Lucas
had an office in Detroit back in '77. Will have to see if anyone is
still there.
Anyone have any documentation on the bridge bolt
specification/requirements? Any documentation why the bolts can only be
used once? The threads don't appear to be deformed to create a locking
function. The bolt heads seem to be of normal geometry. The only
torque to yield bolts I have any experience with are the flywheel bolts
for a Cummins NT diesel engine. Totally different head geometry.
Without any additional facts, I'm leaning towards using NAS130x series
bolts. A bit of overkill and definitely won't look original (especially
if I safety wire them). Would rather error on the side of caution.
But, I've got some time before the car will need brakes...
Bob Haskell
'60 AH BT-7 MkI
'64 Mini Cooper S RHD
'80 MGB LE
bhaskell@iquest.net
SOL Healey (URL http://www.team.net/www/healey) web apprentice
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 19:41:56 EDT
Subject: Re: Vintage Tires (Tyres) for Concours - BJ8
In a message dated 6/5/00 3:52:15 PM, gdrhodes@attglobal.net writes:
<< I know that the original-spec bias ply tire is available - Dunlop
Roadspeed RS5 (590H15). However if I'm going to get the bias plys for
concours judging, I'd like to get it in whitewall since that is what the
car shipped with originally. Vintage Tyres in the UK is unable to supply
them and has told me that to their knowledge noone is producing a
whitewall. Does anyone on the list have any other or additional
knowledge? Any leads will be appreciated. Thanks.
Gayle Rhodes (1967 BJ8) >>
British Wire Wheel, and I believe Hendrix, can have a white wall installed on
the Dunlop tire. Check with them. I know that BWW has a vendor who has a
process that skives off a very thin layer of the sidewall and replaces it
with a white rubber compound. I think Hendrix can do it as well.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Editor, British Car Magazine
From "Patrick QUINN" <QUINNP at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Tue, 06 Jun 2000 09:46:47 +1000
Subject: Austin-Healeys in Targa Tasmania
Greetings
If you have a spare minute or thirty you might like to have a look at:-
www.targa.org.au
Lots of classic cars including Austin-Healeys taking part in this year's Targa
Tasmania tarmac rally held last month on Australia's island state of Tasmania.
Good stuff.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
From "Ron Schonscheck" <schonny at y2consult.com>
Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 18:30:24 -0600
Subject: Re: Running Temps
I just finished Ohauling my engine and this is the pressure I run. Temp hot
day running pretty hard in the mountains elevation 8 to 11 thousand it will
run on the low side 170F to about 205F on the hot side. Hope this helps.
----- Original Message -----
From: TC <tm-c@gmx.net>
To: Healey Chat <healeys@autox.team.net>; Healey List
<majordomo@autox.team.net>; <healeys-owner@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 05, 2000 1:44 PM
Subject: Running Temps
>
> Hi listers
>
>
>
> what is the ideal range of temperatures for a BJ8 as far as water and
>
> oil temp is concerned?
>
> When is the engine considered warm and at running temperature?
>
>
>
> Another thing.
>
> When the engine is hot (comming back from a long drive on the highway)
>
> the oil pressure while idling more or less disappears. Under load the
>
> pressure is fine: when cold up to 60PSI and then dropping to 40PSI under
>
> normal load and 20 idling.
>
> Is this something to worry about or nothing to worry about?
>
>
>
> Cheers
>
> Tim
>
> BJ8´67
>
From john carver <eguz00 at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 18:15:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: BN6 air deflector & radiator hose
I'm planning on doing some work on my car's cooling
system, and figured I'd ask a couple of questions up
front.
The air deflector assembly that goes in front of the
radiator to force air through it - what color is it?
My feeling is that body color is correct, but I
thought it might also be black. I've looked in the
Anders Clausager book, but cannot find a good picture.
Also, what would happen if I used a lower radiator
hose without the heater attachment and simply plugged
up the line to the heater? This would be a temporary
thing - the weather is nice, I have a spare lower hose
and don't want to spend the $ for a rush delivery, or
wait a week to drive again, while I'm getting ready to
do the big work.
Thanks for the input.
John '58 BN6
__________________________________________________
Yahoo! Photos -- now, 100 FREE prints!
http://photos.yahoo.com
From "Andy King" <healey-100 at hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 15:19:12 -1000
Subject: Re: Aluminum type on Shrouds?
The rest of the list can correct me if I'm wrong but I suspect it's the same
alloy as used on the land rover. 1100-H-14 I know if your not welding it
to the shroud and simply hammerforming your own parts you can use 3003-H-14
as it is also soft and easy to shape.
Hope this helps
Andy King
>
> Hi,
>
> Can someone advise what alloy was used on the front and rear shrouds on
the
> Healeys? Is there a close match in annealing behavior to a standard
alloy?
>
> Alternatively, what is the correct annealing temperature for our alloy?
> Any added info on dwell time for stress-relief annealing would be
> appreciated. It appears that cooling rate is not important.
>
> Thanks,
> Adnan
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 19:39:57 -0600
Subject: Fw: Sorry....couldn't help it!
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
------=_NextPart_000_000B_01BFCF25.D4CFF000
charset="iso-8859-1"
Neither could I........
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
click below for pictures
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/193/FSLO-947281688-900193.jpg
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/046/FSLO-952093816-742046.jpg
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/802/FSLO-952194843-487802.jpg
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy Wolfe" <rwolfe@lanl.gov>
To: "Barbara Brand (E-mail)" <Hogette98@aol.com>; "Dave Porter (E-mail)"
<frogeye@gateway.net>; "Edi Richards (E-mail)" <emptr@earthlink.net>;
"Michael Protiva (E-mail)" <MProtivaS@aol.com>; "Sue Hall (E-mail)"
<sbhall@nm.freei.net>
Sent: Monday, June 05, 2000 5:05 PM
Subject: FW: Sorry....couldn't help it!
>
>
> Subject: FW: Sorry....couldn't help it!
>
> <<Sorry....couldn't help it!>>
> <<
> A first grade teacher explains to her class that she is a liberal
Democrat.
> She asks her students to raise their hands if they were liberal Democrats
> too.
>
> Not really knowing what a liberal Democrat was, but wanting to be like
their
> teacher, their hands explode into the air like fleshy fireworks.
>
> There was, however, one exception. A girl named Lucy has not gone along
with
> the crowd.
>
> The teacher asks her why she has decided to be different.
> "Because I'm not a liberal Democrat."
> Then, asks the teacher, what are you?
> "Why I'm a proud conservative Republican.", boasts the little girl.
> The teacher a little perturbed, her face slightly red, asked Lucy why she
is
> a conservative Republican.
>
> "Well, I was brought up to trust in myself instead of relying on an
> intrusive
> government to care for me and do all of my thinking. My Dad and Mom are
> conservative Republicans, and I am a conservative Republican too."
>
> The teacher now angry, loudly said, "that's no reason." "What if your Mom
> was a moron, and your dad was a moron. What would you be then?"
>
> "Then," says Lucy, "I'd be a liberal Democrat."
> >>
>
>
------=_NextPart_000_000B_01BFCF25.D4CFF000
name="Sorry....couldn't help it!.eml"
Content-Disposition: attachment;
filename="Sorry....couldn't help it!.eml"
Message-ID: <200005170039.RAA10046@lists1.best.com>
From: A1911MAN@aol.com
To: api@lists.best.com
Subject: Sorry....couldn't help it!
Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 18:36:59 -0600
MIME-Version: 1.0
X-Mailer: Internet Mail Service (5.5.2448.0)
A first grade teacher explains to her class that she is a liberal Democrat.
She asks her students to raise their hands if they were liberal Democrats
too.
Not really knowing what a liberal Democrat was, but wanting to be like
their
teacher, their hands explode into the air like fleshy fireworks.
There was, however, one exception. A girl named Lucy has not gone along
with
the crowd.
The teacher asks her why she has decided to be different.
"Because I'm not a liberal Democrat."
Then, asks the teacher, what are you?
"Why I'm a proud conservative Republican.", boasts the little girl.
The teacher a little perturbed, her face slightly red, asked Lucy why she
is
a conservative Republican.
"Well, I was brought up to trust in myself instead of relying on an
intrusive
government to care for me and do all of my thinking. My Dad and Mom are
conservative Republicans, and I am a conservative Republican too."
The teacher now angry, loudly said, "that's no reason." "What if your Mom
was a moron, and your dad was a moron. What would you be then?"
"Then," says Lucy, "I'd be a liberal Democrat."
------=_NextPart_000_000B_01BFCF25.D4CFF000--
From "Karlsson Magnus" <healey at telia.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 03:38:59 +0200
Subject: SV: Piston deck height???
Brian,
Unfortunately I can´t give you an exact answer but there is no problem if the
pistons sticks out of the block a little bit. Two tenths of a millimeter or so.
Compare with the thickness of a compressed head gasket and make sure that you
have enough clearance.
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
----- Original Message -----
From: Brian Mix <brianmix@home.com>
To: 'healeys@Autox.team.net' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 05, 2000 10:00 PM
Subject: Piston deck height???
>
> Hello,
>
> My engine re-build saga continues. Block is repaired, yea!
>
> Here is a question that I will try to communicate as clearly as possible:
>
> It is apparent that my block had been shaved at some time, and was shaved some
> more when it was re-sleeved.
>
> When a 100-4 piston is at TDC, it appears even on a stock 100 that the piston
> sticks out the top of the block a little bit. Not flush as one would expect.
>
> Is there a spec. for how much the piston should rise above the deck height?
>
> OR
>
> How much is too far?
>
> Has anybody ever measured this?
>
> Brian
>
>
From Jim Hill <Jim_Hill at chsra.wisc.edu>
Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 20:56:38 -0500
Subject: Vintage Tires (Tyres) for Concours - BJ8
Gayle Rhodes wrote:
>if I'm going to get the bias plys for
>concours judging, I'd like to get it
>in whitewall since that is what the
>car shipped with originally.
Whitewalls . . . AAARRGGHHH!
I know this is a matter of personal taste, and reasonable folks can differ,
but there are some of use who consider whitewalls totally incompatible with
the concept of a "sports car". Call it prejudice, I guess. Perhaps it's my
association of sports cars with cars that could be raced. With the exception
of Old Yeller and perhaps a couple of others, whitewalls just don't look
right. Whitewalls look good on Oldsmobiles :-)
When I bought my first Healey in 1959 it came with whitewalls. Since I was
still in high school and could hardly afford a Healey AND new tires, I drove
it directly to a tire shop and had all the tires reversed so the whitewalls
faced in. As did everyone I knew who was stuck with whitewalled tires.
So if I had to put whitewalls on my car now for concours purposes, I'd do
the same reversal thing and point out that such a configuration was entirely
"period correct".
Jim Hill
Madison WI
From "Karlsson Magnus" <healey at telia.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 03:51:12 +0200
Subject: SV: Caliper Bridge Bolts
Bob,
It´s pretty safe to reuse the bolts as long as they have not been over torqued.
By the way I think its much safer to split these old calipers in order to renew
the square cut o-ring than not doing it.
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Haskell <bhaskell@iquest.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 1:30 AM
Subject: Caliper Bridge Bolts
>
> I'm rebuilding the front disc brake calipers for my '60 BT7. Per the
> early postings, the Healey workshop manual states that the caliper
> should not be split. The MGB workshop manuas states that the caliper
> can be split, but the bridge bolts and the square cut o-ring must be
> replaced.
>
> Does anyone know of a source for the OEM bridge bolts? Girling/Lucas
> had an office in Detroit back in '77. Will have to see if anyone is
> still there.
>
> Anyone have any documentation on the bridge bolt
> specification/requirements? Any documentation why the bolts can only be
> used once? The threads don't appear to be deformed to create a locking
> function. The bolt heads seem to be of normal geometry. The only
> torque to yield bolts I have any experience with are the flywheel bolts
> for a Cummins NT diesel engine. Totally different head geometry.
>
> Without any additional facts, I'm leaning towards using NAS130x series
> bolts. A bit of overkill and definitely won't look original (especially
> if I safety wire them). Would rather error on the side of caution.
>
>
> But, I've got some time before the car will need brakes...
>
>
> Bob Haskell
> '60 AH BT-7 MkI
> '64 Mini Cooper S RHD
> '80 MGB LE
> bhaskell@iquest.net
> SOL Healey (URL http://www.team.net/www/healey) web apprentice
From "Kenneth P. Beck" <kenbeck at compuserve.com>
Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 22:01:00 -0400
Subject: Eastern Pa Brit. show Sunday June 11
Join the Keystone Region MG Club for its 7th Annual British Motorcar
Gathering on Sunday, June 11, 2000 at the Hellertown, PA Reservoir Park.
All marques welcome. Popular vote show with classes and awards determined
by early pre-registrations. Three awards per class. Food and drinks
available with large pavilion and picnic tables. DJ, bagpipes, flea
market, door prizes and coloring contest for the kids. Past entries
between 150-200 cars. $8 pre-registration, $12 day of show. For
information e-mail keystone@britautos.com or phone 610-799-4957 (Bob
Wiseman).
Ken Beck
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at slip.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 19:05:09 -0700
Subject: Re: Styling for the Austin Healey
Keith,
What did Doug have to say about the Healey six?
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@slip.net (home)
San Jose, CA. bspidell@teknema.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Turk" <kturk@ala.net>
To: "Patrick QUINN" <QUINNP@det.nsw.edu.au>; <healeys@autox.team.net>;
<rwil@cts.com>
Sent: Monday, June 05, 2000 1:38 AM
Subject: Re: Styling for the Austin Healey
>
> Hey Patrick.... Kind of a funny twist to this GM 6 cylinder story.... bout
> 10 yrs ago when I first got into this Bonneville thing I called the Leading
> 6 cylinder guy in the Bonneville racing scene.... his Name is Doug Robinson
> of Horsepower Engineering.... We had a couple of really interesting
> conversations about the Healey Six.... We talked about what was good and bad
> about racing a One off engine like these and the associated costs.... The
> guy knew Six Cylinders like the back of his hand.... His Car is the BMR
> coupe... a Very Low Yellow 32 Ford 5 window coupe with a GMC six..... This
> last year it went 213mph at Muroc dry lake.... with a Turbo charger on the
> front that is the size of Chicago.
>
> Keith Turk....
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 22:06:57 EDT
Subject: Re: SV: Caliper Bridge Bolts
In a message dated 06/05/2000 8:59:04 PM Central Daylight Time,
healey@telia.com writes:
<<
It´s pretty safe to reuse the bolts as long as they have not been over
torqued.>>
Magnus: That is the single MOST stupid thing I have EVER read. Just how do
you know?? And since Lucas/Girling and GMC and FMC all say not to re-use
bolts; how have you :instantly" become THE most renowned expert???
<<By the way I think its much safer to split these old calipers in order to
renew the square cut o-ring than not doing it. >>
And that is a "damned if you do and damned if you don't" kind of phrase, huh??
Ed
PS: Oh yeah, add SAE to the above list.
From Susan and John Roper <vscjohn at huntnet.net>
Date: Mon, 05 Jun 2000 21:23:23 -0500
Subject: Re: Piston deck height???
The piston best not rise above the deck, as contact with the head will cause
much
expensive damage. The stock dished piston is at least .040 below the deck.
John
Brian Mix wrote:
> Hello,
>
> My engine re-build saga continues. Block is repaired, yea!
>
> Here is a question that I will try to communicate as clearly as possible:
>
> It is apparent that my block had been shaved at some time, and was shaved some
> more when it was re-sleeved.
>
> When a 100-4 piston is at TDC, it appears even on a stock 100 that the piston
> sticks out the top of the block a little bit. Not flush as one would expect.
>
> Is there a spec. for how much the piston should rise above the deck height?
>
> OR
>
> How much is too far?
>
> Has anybody ever measured this?
>
> Brian
From Susan and John Roper <vscjohn at huntnet.net>
Date: Mon, 05 Jun 2000 21:36:58 -0500
Subject: Re: SV: Piston deck height???
The stock gasket is .060. With the long rods, it would be prudent to allow
clearance of that magnitude to allow for rod stretch. A flat top piston set at
deck height will produce compression in excess of 12 to 1. Again, it is not
viable to set your engine up
with pistons above the deck. John
Karlsson Magnus wrote:
> Brian,
>
> Unfortunately I can´t give you an exact answer but there is no problem if the
>pistons sticks out of the block a little bit. Two tenths of a millimeter or
>so. Compare with the thickness of a compressed head gasket and make sure that
>you have enough clearance.
>
> Magnus Karlsson
> SWEDEN
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Brian Mix <brianmix@home.com>
> To: 'healeys@Autox.team.net' <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, June 05, 2000 10:00 PM
> Subject: Piston deck height???
>
> >
> > Hello,
> >
> > My engine re-build saga continues. Block is repaired, yea!
> >
> > Here is a question that I will try to communicate as clearly as possible:
> >
> > It is apparent that my block had been shaved at some time, and was shaved
>some
> > more when it was re-sleeved.
> >
> > When a 100-4 piston is at TDC, it appears even on a stock 100 that the
>piston
> > sticks out the top of the block a little bit. Not flush as one would expect.
> >
> > Is there a spec. for how much the piston should rise above the deck height?
> >
> > OR
> >
> > How much is too far?
> >
> > Has anybody ever measured this?
> >
> > Brian
> >
> >
From "Karlsson Magnus" <healey at telia.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 04:32:34 +0200
Subject: SV: SV: Caliper Bridge Bolts
Ed
If you think it´s better to run 35 years old calipers unrestored, fine by me.
I´m not claiming to be THE most renowned expert. In my experience it is pretty
safe since I´ve done it many times as long as the bolts seem to be ok and I
haven´t had a failure yet. I have always been wondering about why it is
supposed to be so dangerous to split the calipers especially considering the
age of the square o-rings in them. I feel a lot safer when these are replaced.
It´s also strange that Girling wont supply these o rings nor the bolts.
I suspect that the recommendations of the companies have to do with legal
responsibilities on their part for eventual failures.
Magnus Karlsson
----- Original Message -----
From: <JustBrits@aol.com>
To: <healey@telia.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 4:06 AM
Subject: Re: SV: Caliper Bridge Bolts
> In a message dated 06/05/2000 8:59:04 PM Central Daylight Time,
> healey@telia.com writes:
>
> <<
> It´s pretty safe to reuse the bolts as long as they have not been over
> torqued.>>
>
> Magnus: That is the single MOST stupid thing I have EVER read. Just how do
> you know?? And since Lucas/Girling and GMC and FMC all say not to re-use
> bolts; how have you :instantly" become THE most renowned expert???
>
> <<By the way I think its much safer to split these old calipers in order to
> renew the square cut o-ring than not doing it. >>
>
> And that is a "damned if you do and damned if you don't" kind of phrase, huh??
>
> Ed
>
> PS: Oh yeah, add SAE to the above list.
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 05 Jun 2000 23:07:51 -0700
Subject: Re: Austria and Switzerland and british cars
Jerry,
Consider the Swiss Transport Museum in Lucern. Excellent examples of
automobiles and trains. When we were there a few years back, they had VW
beetle Serial No. 3 in the collection. Great city, and if you visit, a trip
to the top of Mt. Pilatus, and the fondue boat trip at night are a must.
(Take the cog train to the top. It's the steepest in the world)
Terry Blubaugh
costan0@attglobal.net wrote:
> My wife tells me we are going on vacation to Austria and Switzerland this
> summer (late June, early July). Does anyone have any good museums or auto
> shows that should be seen? Or if you have any good places that you have
> visited, let me know.
>
> Jerry
From "Karlsson Magnus" <healey at telia.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 09:53:52 +0200
Subject: SV: SV: Piston deck height???
I was obviously a little too fast in my reply. I was actually refering to a
3000 engine and thought that the 100 had the same type of flat pistons. Since
I´m not sure of the type of pistons for the 100 I should of course had
mentioned this.
On a 3000 it doesn´t matter if the pistons protude over the deck height with as
little as one to two tenths of a mm. This will only give a raise in the
compression ratio with as little as one to two percents and there is no danger
of collision with the head considering the thickness of the head gasket.
Sorry for the confusion.
Magnus Karlsson
----- Original Message -----
From: Susan and John Roper <vscjohn@huntnet.net>
To: Karlsson Magnus <healey@telia.com>
Cc: Healey Lista <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 4:36 AM
Subject: Re: SV: Piston deck height???
>
> The stock gasket is .060. With the long rods, it would be prudent to allow
>clearance of that magnitude to allow for rod stretch. A flat top piston set
>at deck height will produce compression in excess of 12 to 1. Again, it is
>not viable to set your engine up
> with pistons above the deck. John
>
> Karlsson Magnus wrote:
>
> > Brian,
> >
> > Unfortunately I can´t give you an exact answer but there is no problem if
>the pistons sticks out of the block a little bit. Two tenths of a millimeter
>or so. Compare with the thickness of a compressed head gasket and make sure
>that you have enough clearance.
> >
> > Magnus Karlsson
> > SWEDEN
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Brian Mix <brianmix@home.com>
> > To: 'healeys@Autox.team.net' <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Monday, June 05, 2000 10:00 PM
> > Subject: Piston deck height???
> >
> > >
> > > Hello,
> > >
> > > My engine re-build saga continues. Block is repaired, yea!
> > >
> > > Here is a question that I will try to communicate as clearly as possible:
> > >
> > > It is apparent that my block had been shaved at some time, and was shaved
>some
> > > more when it was re-sleeved.
> > >
> > > When a 100-4 piston is at TDC, it appears even on a stock 100 that the
>piston
> > > sticks out the top of the block a little bit. Not flush as one would
>expect.
> > >
> > > Is there a spec. for how much the piston should rise above the deck
>height?
> > >
> > > OR
> > >
> > > How much is too far?
> > >
> > > Has anybody ever measured this?
> > >
> > > Brian
> > >
> > >
>
>
>
From Reid Trummel <rtrummel at san.osd.mil>
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 10:09:54 -0000
Subject: "Jamaican" kit car
Some months ago someone asked about the "Jamaican" kit car that uses an
Austin-Healey chassis and looks something like a Datsun 240Z with a longer
nose (although actually the Jamaican came first by several years). Anyway
there's one up for auction on eBay right now with some photos and
description that you might want to look at if you're interested in this
Austin-Healey crossover to the kit car world.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=347517
039&r=0&t=0
Cheers,
Reid
http://www.healey.org
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 19:15:14 +1000
Subject: Re: Austria and Switzerland and british cars
Just over the Swiss border in France is Mulhouse which is home to the
Schlumpf collection, which would have to rate as the best collection of
classic cars anywhere in the world. You really need to allow a couple of
days to see it fully. It is well worth the visit.
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
----- Original Message -----
From: <costan0@attglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, 6 June 2000 6:01
Subject: Austria and Switzerland and british cars
>
> My wife tells me we are going on vacation to Austria and Switzerland this
> summer (late June, early July). Does anyone have any good museums or auto
> shows that should be seen? Or if you have any good places that you have
> visited, let me know.
>
> Jerry
>
From Martin Filardi <filardi at uconect.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 20:49:15 -0400
Subject: RE: Piston deck height???
This is called "pop up", and I do not know the spec for a 100, but in my BJ8
the piston is below the deck by about 3 or 4 mm but I did not measure it. The
"pop up" can be changed with a change in the head gasket thickness. You can
order different thickness copper head gaskets. This is all played around with
by racers. We are racing a gokart and fool around with these specs all the
time. We try to "throw" the valves up, raise the pop up, cut the gasket down,
and raise the compression. What usually happens is that we run fast for a
while, then the valve slams into the sparkplug, or the rod goes out the side of
the block, or the head gasket blows.
If your piston is popping up above the deck, I would take a good look at the
head shape, and the valve configuration, and mic. out the head gasket
thickness. High compression is nice, but how often do you want to tear down the
engine? It is all time and money. Ciao, Marty BJ8, racing gokart/ 5hpbriggs,
thinking of going 2 stroke.
----------
From: Brian Mix
Sent: Monday, June 05, 2000 4:00 PM
To: 'healeys@Autox.team.net'
Subject: Piston deck height???
Hello,
My engine re-build saga continues. Block is repaired, yea!
Here is a question that I will try to communicate as clearly as possible:
It is apparent that my block had been shaved at some time, and was shaved some
more when it was re-sleeved.
When a 100-4 piston is at TDC, it appears even on a stock 100 that the piston
sticks out the top of the block a little bit. Not flush as one would expect.
Is there a spec. for how much the piston should rise above the deck height?
OR
How much is too far?
Has anybody ever measured this?
Brian
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at connect.comdek.net.au>
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 19:17:58 +0800
Subject: BT7 assembly - rear bump stop box
Hi all
having some minor glitches with my reassembly - particularly with the rear
bump stop boxes.
I can see that the box is bolted on by two bolts through the wheelarch and
two through the body near the rear seats. On the inside there is a small
hole for a cable clip screw. My parts book does not appear to mention this
part.
My questions are
1. Are the bolts hex heads or screw heads? and does this leave a bolt
head projection in the wheel arch?
2 What are the other 2 holes in the outer face for.
TIA
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
1959 BT7 # 10112, in restoration
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 06 Jun 2000 08:18:11 -0400
Subject: Re: SV: SV: Caliper Bridge Bolts
Karlsson Magnus wrote:
> Ed
>
> If you think it´s better to run 35 years old calipers unrestored, fine by me.
>
> I´m not claiming to be THE most renowned expert. In my experience it is
>pretty safe since I´ve done it many times as long as the bolts seem to be ok
>and I haven´t had a failure yet. I have always been wondering about why it is
>supposed to be so dangerous to split the calipers especially considering the
>age of the square o-rings in them. I feel a lot safer when these are replaced.
>It´s also strange that Girling wont supply these o rings nor the bolts.
>
> I suspect that the recommendations of the companies have to do with legal
>responsibilities on their part for eventual failures.
>
> Magnus Karlsson
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <JustBrits@aol.com>
> To: <healey@telia.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 4:06 AM
> Subject: Re: SV: Caliper Bridge Bolts
>
> > In a message dated 06/05/2000 8:59:04 PM Central Daylight Time,
> > healey@telia.com writes:
> >
> > <<
> > It´s pretty safe to reuse the bolts as long as they have not been over
> > torqued.>>
> >
> > Magnus: That is the single MOST stupid thing I have EVER read. Just how do
> > you know?? And since Lucas/Girling and GMC and FMC all say not to re-use
> > bolts; how have you :instantly" become THE most renowned expert???
> >
> > <<By the way I think its much safer to split these old calipers in order to
> > renew the square cut o-ring than not doing it. >>
> >
> > And that is a "damned if you do and damned if you don't" kind of phrase,
>huh??
> >
> > Ed
> >
> > PS: Oh yeah, add SAE to the above list.
Ed,
I have to agree with Karlsson on this one. The company who have been rebuilding
calipers for us for 28 years report exactly the same findings as Karlsson. The
chances are that the half to half seal will have deteriorated and could leak.
they reuse the same bolts unless there is some evidence of damage and have
NEVER had a problem with bolts not holding up. They rebuild about 50-60
calipers a day.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 06 Jun 2000 08:28:21 -0400
Subject: Re: SV: SV: Piston deck height???
IMHO the solution to this problem is to take a measurement of the deck height
on a 100/4 block and all will be solved. Of course to be accurate the dimension
should be measured from the top of a main bearing bore to the deck. Anyone got
a 12-13 inch micrometer?
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Karlsson Magnus wrote:
> I was obviously a little too fast in my reply. I was actually refering to a
>3000 engine and thought that the 100 had the same type of flat pistons. Since
>I´m not sure of the type of pistons for the 100 I should of course had
>mentioned this.
>
> On a 3000 it doesn´t matter if the pistons protude over the deck height with
>as little as one to two tenths of a mm. This will only give a raise in the
>compression ratio with as little as one to two percents and there is no danger
>of collision with the head considering the thickness of the head gasket.
>
> Sorry for the confusion.
>
> Magnus Karlsson
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Susan and John Roper <vscjohn@huntnet.net>
> To: Karlsson Magnus <healey@telia.com>
> Cc: Healey Lista <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 4:36 AM
> Subject: Re: SV: Piston deck height???
>
> >
> > The stock gasket is .060. With the long rods, it would be prudent to allow
>clearance of that magnitude to allow for rod stretch. A flat top piston set
>at deck height will produce compression in excess of 12 to 1. Again, it is
>not viable to set your engine up
> > with pistons above the deck. John
> >
> > Karlsson Magnus wrote:
> >
> > > Brian,
> > >
> > > Unfortunately I can´t give you an exact answer but there is no problem if
>the pistons sticks out of the block a little bit. Two tenths of a millimeter
>or so. Compare with the thickness of a compressed head gasket and make sure
>that you have enough clearance.
> > >
> > > Magnus Karlsson
> > > SWEDEN
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Brian Mix <brianmix@home.com>
> > > To: 'healeys@Autox.team.net' <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: Monday, June 05, 2000 10:00 PM
> > > Subject: Piston deck height???
> > >
> > > >
> > > > Hello,
> > > >
> > > > My engine re-build saga continues. Block is repaired, yea!
> > > >
> > > > Here is a question that I will try to communicate as clearly as
>possible:
> > > >
> > > > It is apparent that my block had been shaved at some time, and was
>shaved some
> > > > more when it was re-sleeved.
> > > >
> > > > When a 100-4 piston is at TDC, it appears even on a stock 100 that the
>piston
> > > > sticks out the top of the block a little bit. Not flush as one would
>expect.
> > > >
> > > > Is there a spec. for how much the piston should rise above the deck
>height?
> > > >
> > > > OR
> > > >
> > > > How much is too far?
> > > >
> > > > Has anybody ever measured this?
> > > >
> > > > Brian
From Jimmysmth at aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 08:40:09 EDT
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note Turnoff...Waves
In a message dated 6/5/00 5:05:13 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
loftusdesign@home.com writes:
<< I usually
wave, nod or smile at other small sport >>
Don't forget the pecking order among LBC's....Lesser cars wave first! (for
snobs only?)
(hope this doesn't start a car ranking thread, for instance a Healey would
wave first only to Jags, Aston Martin's, etc.)
Jim
From "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec at globalserve.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 09:12:17 -0400
Subject: Re: Vintage Tires (Tyres) for Concours - BJ8
Agree with Jim generally , but the odd Brit sportscar does look
quite good with white walls. Some strange colours also, ie Iris
Blue and Dove grey (on an MGA). But kill the guy in tight pants
that invented Alamado Beige.
Mike L.
60A,67E,59Bug
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Hill <Jim_Hill@chsra.wisc.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: June 5, 2000 9:56 PM
Subject: Vintage Tires (Tyres) for Concours - BJ8
>
>
> Gayle Rhodes wrote:
>
> >if I'm going to get the bias plys for
> >concours judging, I'd like to get it
> >in whitewall since that is what the
> >car shipped with originally.
>
> Whitewalls . . . AAARRGGHHH!
>
> I know this is a matter of personal taste, and reasonable folks
can differ,
> but there are some of use who consider whitewalls totally
incompatible with
> the concept of a "sports car". Call it prejudice, I guess.
Perhaps it's my
> association of sports cars with cars that could be raced. With
the exception
> of Old Yeller and perhaps a couple of others, whitewalls just
don't look
> right. Whitewalls look good on Oldsmobiles :-)
>
> When I bought my first Healey in 1959 it came with whitewalls.
Since I was
> still in high school and could hardly afford a Healey AND new
tires, I drove
> it directly to a tire shop and had all the tires reversed so the
whitewalls
> faced in. As did everyone I knew who was stuck with whitewalled
tires.
>
> So if I had to put whitewalls on my car now for concours
purposes, I'd do
> the same reversal thing and point out that such a configuration
was entirely
> "period correct".
>
> Jim Hill
> Madison WI
>
>
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 07:15:08 -0600
Subject: Le Mans Crash
Last week there were some questions about the crash at Le Mans. I have been
in contact with Pete Gosling, a former Healey test driver and factory rep,
who was at the race. He has graciously agreed to send along his account of
the incident. I'll post it to the list as soon as I receive it.
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
click below for pictures
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/193/FSLO-947281688-900193.jpg
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/046/FSLO-952093816-742046.jpg
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/802/FSLO-952194843-487802.jpg
From "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec at globalserve.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 09:49:48 -0400
Subject: Re: SV: Caliper Bridge Bolts
Magnus, good for you for not getting hooked into a long pissing
match thread with Ed. But do let us know if one of your caliper
repairs ever splits open.
I am a professional mechanical engineer and certainly would hate
to second guess any factory recommendations on safety items,
especially brakes, steering or suspension.
But then these are the same 'factory' guys who gave us
-the dreaded frt suspension thread load bearing fulcrum pin with
insufficient lubrication access
-wire wheels that regularly break their splines or then refuse to
come off without heat or driving around in circles with a loosened
knockoff
-voltage regulators that regularly burn down cars in their garages
-bushings that need to be reamed before installation
-an LBC door handle that can also be found on a 20 ton truck
-glove boxes and door pockets made out of stapled cardboard
-a huge assortment of bolts and nuts 1/4 inch or smaller
(sometimes on safety items)
-wood, Lucas, and convertible tops that take 10 minutes to raise
and lower
-the phrase "offer up the assembly to the vehicle
whilst..........."
-Jaguars built in the late 80's that were almost banned from
import to the USA because little things like steering wheels were
falling off
-and how about the Etype Jag with the gas pedal right foot 12
inches closer to your pecker than the left foot, which will
excruciate you after two hours on the freeway (no speed control).
The tunnel obstruction that causes this poorest rearward location
of the gas pedal is on 90% of production volume - all of the
exported left hand drive cars. The right hand drive car of course
was designed properly.
Even a good doctor on this list calls his car a death trap - I
wonder, maybe he split his calipers.
Mike L.
60A,67E,59Bug
----- Original Message -----
From: Karlsson Magnus <healey@telia.com>
To: Healey Lista <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: June 5, 2000 10:32 PM
Subject: SV: SV: Caliper Bridge Bolts
Ed
If you think it´s better to run 35 years old calipers unrestored,
fine by me.
I´m not claiming to be THE most renowned expert. In my experience
it is pretty safe since I´ve done it many times as long as the
bolts seem to be ok and I haven´t had a failure yet. I have always
been wondering about why it is supposed to be so dangerous to
split the calipers especially considering the age of the square
o-rings in them. I feel a lot safer when these are replaced. It´s
also strange that Girling wont supply these o rings nor the bolts.
I suspect that the recommendations of the companies have to do
with legal responsibilities on their part for eventual failures.
Magnus Karlsson
----- Original Message -----
From: <JustBrits@aol.com>
To: <healey@telia.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 4:06 AM
Subject: Re: SV: Caliper Bridge Bolts
> In a message dated 06/05/2000 8:59:04 PM Central Daylight Time,
> healey@telia.com writes:
>
> <<
> It´s pretty safe to reuse the bolts as long as they have not
been over
> torqued.>>
>
> Magnus: That is the single MOST stupid thing I have EVER read.
Just how do
> you know?? And since Lucas/Girling and GMC and FMC all say not
to re-use
> bolts; how have you :instantly" become THE most renowned
expert???
>
> <<By the way I think its much safer to split these old calipers
in order to
> renew the square cut o-ring than not doing it. >>
>
> And that is a "damned if you do and damned if you don't" kind of
phrase, huh??
>
> Ed
>
> PS: Oh yeah, add SAE to the above list.
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 06 Jun 2000 09:35:50 -0500
Subject: Re: SV: Caliper Bridge Bolts
Maybe I am taking my life in my hands by expressing my opinion on this now
"hot" topic but I believe the manufacturers are concerned about liability
issues just as Magnus pointed out.
I have split may brake calipers but I always replace the square o-ring and
the bolts. I wonder if it is necessary to replace the bolts since the ones
that I have seen have always seemed in good condition, but grade 5 or grade
8 bolts in the correct size are readily available from most automotive
suppliers and they are inexpensive. I torque the large bolts to 50 lb/in
and the small ones to 40 lb/in. Never had a leak or failure. Am I way off
base here??
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 11:12:01 EDT
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note Turnoff...Waves
In a message dated 6/6/00 9:32:55 AM Eastern Daylight Time, Jimmysmth@aol.com
writes:
<< Don't forget the pecking order among LBC's....Lesser cars wave first!
(for
snobs only?)
(hope this doesn't start a car ranking thread, for instance a Healey would
wave first only to Jags, Aston Martin's, etc.)
Jim
>>
Jim--
Sometime during the late 50's or early 60's either Road &Track or Sports Cars
Illustrated made up a little chart with cars' names listed along the left and
top sides. (Sort of like those mileage distance charts on maps). You were
supposed to glue it to the lower left corner of your widshield. You went
across the top to find your car, then read down to the intersection of the
other car approaching, and the chart told you who should waive first or
sometimes simultaneously. It was great fun and sparked lots of reader mail.,
Michael Oritt, St. Leonard, MD.
1955 BN1 (Does not waive to Miatas and Z-3's)
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 11:24:35 EDT
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note Turnoff...Waves
And a Healey convertible would wave first to a Healey roadster!
Rudy
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 11:35:26 EDT
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note Turnoff...Waves
In a message dated 06/06/2000 10:26:42 AM Central Daylight Time,
CAWS52803@aol.com writes:
<< And a Healey convertible would wave first to a Healey roadster! >>
Other way around, Rudy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Ed
'63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 11:44:39 EDT
Subject: Re: BN6 air deflector & radiator hose
In a message dated 6/5/00 6:33:27 PM, eguz00@yahoo.com writes:
<< The air deflector assembly that goes in front of the
radiator to force air through it - what color is it?
My feeling is that body color is correct, but I
thought it might also be black. I've looked in the
Anders Clausager book, but cannot find a good picture.
Also, what would happen if I used a lower radiator
hose without the heater attachment and simply plugged
up the line to the heater? This would be a temporary
thing - the weather is nice, I have a spare lower hose
and don't want to spend the $ for a rush delivery, or
wait a week to drive again, while I'm getting ready to
do the big work. >>
The air deflectors that were added to the six-cylinder cars at c.47184 in
August of 1957 were painted black, along with their supports.
Of course, there are also the inner fender extensions that were used on the
six-cylinder cars, but not on the four cylinder cars. Those were painted
body color.
There's no particular reason to funnel water through the heater, but remember
that the lower heater hose is the RETURN to the radiator; you'd also have to
make sure that you had managed to completely shut off the water coming from
the block at the heater control valve (lower right hand side of block).
Cheers
Gary
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 11:48:00 EDT
Subject: Re: Vintage Tires (Tyres) for Concours - BJ8
In a message dated 6/5/00 7:15:43 PM, Jim_Hill@chsra.wisc.edu writes:
<< So if I had to put whitewalls on my car now for concours purposes, I'd do
the same reversal thing and point out that such a configuration was entirely
"period correct". >>
There are those who want their cars to look just as they did in the period
brochures and advertisements, and on the BJ8s, that usually meant with a
one-inch wide white wall (though not on earlier models). It isn't required
for concours, but if the individual wanted to do it on a BJ8, it would be
acceptable. (But, to repeat, not required, just accepted.) And, of course,
there are those who argued then and now that once the car had been equipped
with wind-up windows, a convertible top, and a walnut veneer dash, it was no
longer a sports car, anyhow.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 11:59:38 EDT
Subject: Re: Le Mans Crash
In a message dated 6/6/00 6:54:11 AM, frogeye@gateway.net writes:
<< I'll post it to the list as soon as I receive it.
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque >>
I for one will look forward to receiving it. I've talked to Norman Dewis,
one of the other Jaguar drivers at Le Mans and Jaguar's chief development
engineer about the incident -- he was standing at the pit wall when it took
place, but said that it was very difficult to sort out exactly what had
occured, even being on the spot. initially, I didn't put up anything about
his opinion since he would be too gentlemanly to differ from the official
Jaguar position, but his statement was similar to others -- in racing,
accidents happen. This just happened to be one of them. All of the race
drivers shared this opinion. It was only the public that wanted a scapegoat,
and since everyone involved had a share in the accident, everyone could be,
and was, blamed at one time or another.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Editor, British Car Magazine
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 12:05:25 EDT
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note Turnoff...Waves
In a message dated 6/6/00 8:42:58 AM, Awgertoo@aol.com writes:
<<
Sometime during the late 50's or early 60's either Road &Track or Sports Cars
Illustrated made up a little chart with cars' names listed along the left and
top sides. (Sort of like those mileage distance charts on maps). You were
supposed to glue it to the lower left corner of your widshield. You went
across the top to find your car, then read down to the intersection of the
other car approaching, and the chart told you who should waive first or
sometimes simultaneously. It was great fun and sparked lots of reader mai >>
If any of you wonderful LPRs (little pack rats) have saved a copy of that
piece (my memory from junior high days is that it was in Road and Track
(though seems to me Playboy -- I only read that for Ken Purdy's car articles,
of course -- might have run that piece or a similar one) please let me know.
I think it would be of great interest to current readers of British Car
magazines.
Cheers
Gary
From DMMax at aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 12:41:51 EDT
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note Turnoff...Waves
In a message dated 06/06/2000 11:26:42 Eastern Daylight Time,
CAWS52803@aol.com writes:
<< And a Healey convertible would wave first to a Healey roadster!
Rudy >>
Right-on Rudy !!!!
From DMMax at aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 12:45:10 EDT
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note Turnoff...Waves
OK Listers...
Where do older Loti fit in here ???
David Maxwell and the ever Bri-ish Mrs. Peel
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 13:24:08 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note Turnoff...Waves
Some of us distinguish between genuine Austin-Healeys and BJ7s and 8s. "Real"
ones don't have windows.
<big G>
DickB '62 BT7 Tri-Carb
---- you wrote:
>
> In a message dated 06/06/2000 10:26:42 AM Central Daylight Time,
> CAWS52803@aol.com writes:
>
> << And a Healey convertible would wave first to a Healey roadster! >>
>
> Other way around, Rudy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>
> Ed
> '63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From "kirk kvam" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 10:39:41 -0700
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note Turnoff...Waves
But break my fingers if your LBC friends catch you waiving to a (snob)
Porsche.
Rule # 100-100/6-3000, mk1, mk2, and mk3.
Kirk Kvam
62BT7#3
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jimmysmth@aol.com>
To: <loftusdesign@home.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 5:40 AM
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note Turnoff...Waves
>
> In a message dated 6/5/00 5:05:13 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> loftusdesign@home.com writes:
>
> << I usually
> wave, nod or smile at other small sport >>
>
>
> Don't forget the pecking order among LBC's....Lesser cars wave first!
(for
> snobs only?)
> (hope this doesn't start a car ranking thread, for instance a Healey
would
> wave first only to Jags, Aston Martin's, etc.)
>
> Jim
From "kirk kvam" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 10:58:49 -0700
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note Turnoff...Waves (E&H)
Sorry Ed and (Hortense),
Out of respect for your elders, it's always the newer (youngster) car waves
first within the marque.
Kirk Kvam
62BT7#3
----- Original Message -----
From: <JustBrits@aol.com>
To: <CAWS52803@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 8:35 AM
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note Turnoff...Waves
>
> In a message dated 06/06/2000 10:26:42 AM Central Daylight Time,
> CAWS52803@aol.com writes:
>
> << And a Healey convertible would wave first to a Healey roadster! >>
>
> Other way around, Rudy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>
> Ed
> '63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)
From Alan F Cross <AlanX at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 19:15:59 +0100
Subject: Re: Removing tonneau studs from BJ8 dash-top
In message <34.616eae6.266d8505@aol.com>, JustBrits@aol.com writes
>In a message dated 06/05/2000 1:12:17 PM Central Daylight Time,
>alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk writes:
>
><< BJ8 I am having a new
> tonneau made. >>
>
>WHY, Alan?? There are SEVERAL Brit suppliers of tonneaus. R & L.
>
>Ed
Because I'm told (by someone I trust) that the off-the-shelf ones seldom
fit, and that they come with all the studs in a bag for the buyer to
work out where they go, and then fit them with a heavy duty punch/press
which I don't have.
If anyone has a different experience I'd be pleased to hear about it.
Alan F Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK
H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny"
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 13:49:03 -0400
Subject: Waves
I think the "waving" is about as stupid as the human "waves" at a baseball
game.
Wave if you want to be friendly, not because someone has a "bigger" or
"better" or more expensive car. What a bunch of hogwash!
Don
BN7
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Tue, 06 Jun 2000 11:52:17 -0700
Subject: Grease fittings
I am having a hard time getting grease to go into some of my fittings. The
nipples seem slightly smaller than a standard size, and my gun's clamping
mechanism lets it ooze out around the edges. Has anyone seen a special end
for a regular hand-pump gun, or do I need to replace the nipples with
larger ones. (No jokes please!)
TIA
Bill Katz
Bay Area, CA
'67 BJ8
'94 325is
http://www.handsonresearch.com/healey
From "Richard E. Pratt" <prattri at email.msn.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 15:19:54 -0400
Subject: RE: Grease fittings
Bill, I have run across the same problem. My solution was to buy a new
grease connection to the grease gun. Apparently the rubber seal in the
connection had dried out so the grease would not force the connection to
close around the fitting and force the grease into the fitting. Take the
grease gun connection apart and you will see what I talking about.
Hope this helps
Richard
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Bill Katz
> Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 2:52 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Grease fittings
>
>
>
> I am having a hard time getting grease to go into some of my
> fittings. The
> nipples seem slightly smaller than a standard size, and my gun's clamping
> mechanism lets it ooze out around the edges. Has anyone seen a
> special end
> for a regular hand-pump gun, or do I need to replace the nipples with
> larger ones. (No jokes please!)
>
> TIA
>
> Bill Katz
> Bay Area, CA
> '67 BJ8
> '94 325is
> http://www.handsonresearch.com/healey
>
>
From "kirk kvam" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 12:24:34 -0700
Subject: Re: Waves
Hi Don,
If you had owned or driven a "SPORTS CAR" in the 50's and 60's you would
have a better understanding.
Kirk Kvam
62BT7#3
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Yarber" <dyarber@dynasty.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 10:49 AM
Subject: Waves
>
> I think the "waving" is about as stupid as the human "waves" at a baseball
> game.
>
> Wave if you want to be friendly, not because someone has a "bigger" or
> "better" or more expensive car. What a bunch of hogwash!
>
> Don
> BN7
>
>
>
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 12:37:04 -0700
Subject: Re: Grease fittings
Bill I had similar problems with some of mine. Most were just plugged with
crap and a soaking in lacquer thinners dissolved the junk. I would then put
the grease gun on the nipple, when it was off the car, and make sure it
would pass grease...Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 11:52 AM
Subject: Grease fittings
>
> I am having a hard time getting grease to go into some of my fittings. The
> nipples seem slightly smaller than a standard size, and my gun's clamping
> mechanism lets it ooze out around the edges. Has anyone seen a special end
> for a regular hand-pump gun, or do I need to replace the nipples with
> larger ones. (No jokes please!)
>
> TIA
>
> Bill Katz
> Bay Area, CA
> '67 BJ8
> '94 325is
> http://www.handsonresearch.com/healey
>
>
From "Ron Schonscheck" <schonny at y2consult.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 13:50:23 -0600
Subject: Re: Grease fittings
Probably just plugged. Remove and replace, these are common parts. I've
had to do the same with mine.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 12:52 PM
Subject: Grease fittings
>
> I am having a hard time getting grease to go into some of my fittings. The
> nipples seem slightly smaller than a standard size, and my gun's clamping
> mechanism lets it ooze out around the edges. Has anyone seen a special end
> for a regular hand-pump gun, or do I need to replace the nipples with
> larger ones. (No jokes please!)
>
> TIA
>
> Bill Katz
> Bay Area, CA
> '67 BJ8
> '94 325is
> http://www.handsonresearch.com/healey
>
>
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Tue, 06 Jun 2000 13:03:32 -0700
Subject: Re: Waves
Or ridden a motorcycle. Used to be all bike riders waved at one another.
(Well, maybe except for Harley riders<g>) Then it became only like makes
who waved to each other, and now I don't know.
bk
---------------------
At 12:24 PM 6/6/00 , kirk kvam wrote:
>Hi Don,
>
>If you had owned or driven a "SPORTS CAR" in the 50's and 60's you would
>have a better understanding.
>
>Kirk Kvam
>62BT7#3
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Don Yarber" <dyarber@dynasty.net>
>To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 10:49 AM
>Subject: Waves
>
>
> >
> > I think the "waving" is about as stupid as the human "waves" at a baseball
> > game.
> >
> > Wave if you want to be friendly, not because someone has a "bigger" or
> > "better" or more expensive car. What a bunch of hogwash!
> >
> > Don
> > BN7
> >
> >
> >
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 16:16:45 EDT
Subject: Re: Removing tonneau studs from BJ8 dash-top
Hi Alan,
I did a tonneau for my 100/6 and it was a lot easier than I thought it was
going to be. Yes, the snaps came in a separate bag. I stretched the tonneau
in place and had someone hold the other side then I pressed down so that the
buttons would make an indentation. I marked it with a piece of chalk, as it
washed off easily. I put the tonneau on the work bench and used a punch type
tool that cuts through the tonneau. You don't need a press as a couple of
whacks with a regular hammer will cut the material.
Good Luck.
Rudy in NC
From "Rick Lees" <rlees at rideshare.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 16:23:25 -0400
Subject: Waves
Hi List,
This is Rick Lees here in CT. I will look when I get home but I am very sure
I have the chart that was published in a car magazine in the sixty's.I
believe it covered all brands of sports cars.
Will post more once I get home from work
Rick Lees
58 BN4
71 V12E
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 16:21:34 EDT
Subject: Re: Grease fittings
Bill,
I bet we all have had the same problem. I removed the fitting and found that
the grease was dried up. Working on the bench in a vise will simplify the
whole job.
Rudy in NC
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Tue, 06 Jun 2000 13:27:41 -0700
Subject: Top Frame Problem
Hi all,
Having a problem with the convertible top frame.
The wood strip which is positioned along the top edge of the roll up
window does not line up with the wood strip along the rear edge of the
window. It is about 1" too low. This occurs on both sides of the car.
The top frame appears to be in good shape otherwise and I can't figure
out how to make any adjustments to alleviate the problem. Even if I
physically try to push the strip into position, it will not budge.
This does not appear to be a RTA repair or RTM repair <G> so any help is
appreciated.
Cheers,
John Loftus
BJ7
From BN4L at aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 16:49:22 EDT
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note Turnoff...Waves (E&H)
In a message dated 6/6/2000 11:19:35 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
62BT7@prodigy.net writes:
<< Sorry Ed and (Hortense),
Out of respect for your elders, it's always the newer (youngster) car waves
first within the marque.
Kirk Kvam
62BT7#3
>>
Kirk, do you EVER get to wave 1st????
Art Hill
Escondido, CA
'58 100-6 BN4 A-H "Mille Miglia"
'66 TR6R Triumph Tiger
'96 R1100RT BMW
From BN4L at aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 16:54:39 EDT
Subject: Re: Waves
In a message dated 6/6/2000 1:28:34 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
bkatz@handsonresearch.com writes:
<< Or ridden a motorcycle. Used to be all bike riders waved at one another.
(Well, maybe except for Harley riders<g>) Then it became only like makes
who waved to each other, and now I don't know.
bk
>>
Almost all riders of real motorcycles still wave regradless of make, of
course, this leaves out the putt-putt Harley people.
Art Hill
Escondido, CA
'58 100-6 BN4 A-H "Mille Miglia"
'66 TR6R Triumph Tiger
'96 R1100RT BMW
From Jim Hill <Jim_Hill at chsra.wisc.edu>
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 17:04:01 -0500
Subject: Waves
As one of those who WAS there during the 50's and 60's, I can tell you that
any so-called "waving rules" appearing in magazine articles are hogwash.
For 'real' sports cars (obviously including Healeys) the rules are the same
now as they were then: You wave at anyone driving the same kind of car AND
(this is the important part) you ALWAYS wave at ANYONE who waves at you!
Initiating a wave under any other circumstances is optional.
Remember . . . this is all supposed to be fun!
On the other hand, I wouldn't initiate a wave at a Porche . . .
Jim Hill
Madison WI
From "kirk kvam" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 15:16:45 -0700
Subject: M/C Waves
Let's define this wave, a little further,
Is that ?? Left hand, Right hand, or Both hands.
Kirk Kvam
62BT7#3
----- Original Message -----
From: <BN4L@aol.com>
To: <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 1:54 PM
Subject: Re: Waves
>
> In a message dated 6/6/2000 1:28:34 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> bkatz@handsonresearch.com writes:
>
> << Or ridden a motorcycle. Used to be all bike riders waved at one
another.
> (Well, maybe except for Harley riders<g>) Then it became only like makes
> who waved to each other, and now I don't know.
>
> bk
> >>
> Almost all riders of real motorcycles still wave regradless of make, of
> course, this leaves out the putt-putt Harley people.
>
> Art Hill
> Escondido, CA
> '58 100-6 BN4 A-H "Mille Miglia"
> '66 TR6R Triumph Tiger
> '96 R1100RT BMW
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 18:47:28 EDT
Subject: Re: Waves
In a message dated 6/6/00 6:18:25 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
Jim_Hill@chsra.wisc.edu writes:
<< this is all supposed to be fun! >>
And so, Jim, were the articles!
Michael Oritt, St. Leonard, MD.1955 BN1
(Waits a perceptible nanosecond before acknowledging waves from rubber-bumper
MG's)
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 19:03:52 EDT
Subject: Re: Waves
In a message dated 6/6/00 3:49:51 PM, Awgertoo@aol.com writes:
<< << this is all supposed to be fun! >>
And so, Jim, were the articles!
Michael Oritt, St. Leonard, MD.1955 BN1
(Waits a perceptible nanosecond before acknowledging waves from rubber-bumper
MG's) >>
I drive my Healey a lot (Weather has been awesome) and folks are always
waving, thumbs up, whatever. I usually wave back or just smile and aknowledge
that they have the ability/taste/humour/politeness, to notice my LBC and let
me know that it has effected them in some positive way.
All very pleasant
Rick
San Diego
From Bob Haskell <bhaskell at iquest.net>
Date: Tue, 06 Jun 2000 18:10:01 -0500
Subject: No LBC - mercury batteries
I have an old 35mm camera and a couple of pieces of Sun test equipment
that use mercury batteries. Mercury batteries are no longer sold in the
US, but it is apparently legal to bring one in with you when returning
from overseas.
Are mercury batteries still available in UK and/or Europe? The Sun
equipment uses a 1.35v AA battery.
Thanks,
Bob Haskell
'60 AH BT-7 MkI
'64 Mini Cooper S RHD
'80 MGB LE
bhaskell@iquest.net
SOL Healey (URL http://www.team.net/www/healey) web apprentice
From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 19:09:57 EDT
Subject: Re: Waves
In a message dated 06/06/2000 6:12:55 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
Jim_Hill@chsra.wisc.edu writes:
<< On the other hand, I wouldn't initiate a wave at a Porche . . >>
Yea, the owner would probably think it illogical...like my buddy thinks of me
owning a car that gets worked on all the time when I could have a porche 911
like his which never needs work. Well if you like Greman Engineering with
Pacer good looks, then get THAT thing! I'll stick with the Healey and wave
at anyone who had a British car on the road.
Tim Wallace
'67 BJ8
Fuquay-Varina, NC
From "kirk kvam" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 16:16:39 -0700
Subject: Re: Waves
Hi Jim,
Is that "Porche" you make reference too, as in "Back Porche" ???
Kirk
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Hill" <Jim_Hill@chsra.wisc.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 3:04 PM
Subject: Waves
>
>
>
> As one of those who WAS there during the 50's and 60's, I can tell you
that
> any so-called "waving rules" appearing in magazine articles are hogwash.
>
> For 'real' sports cars (obviously including Healeys) the rules are the
same
> now as they were then: You wave at anyone driving the same kind of car AND
> (this is the important part) you ALWAYS wave at ANYONE who waves at you!
>
> Initiating a wave under any other circumstances is optional.
>
> Remember . . . this is all supposed to be fun!
>
> On the other hand, I wouldn't initiate a wave at a Porche . . .
>
> Jim Hill
> Madison WI
From "James Sailer" <sailer at srv.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 17:28:03 -0600
Subject: Waves
Drive a Land Rover (a Series vehicle or Defender - not a Disco or Rangie)
and see the waves you get... or rather... the meetings you have as both
vehicles drive off the road, turn-around and you share a cold adult hopped
beverage....
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
93 Land Rover D110 - w/full cooler always in place for waves
From DENewman2 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 19:27:40 EDT
Subject: Re: Waves
I thought both cars had to have their tops down!
But then again, that was in S. Texas in 1968.
From LarryRPH at aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 19:32:35 EDT
Subject: Re: Waves & exhaust Turn off
I agree with you 100% . I am embarassed by the snobbish attitudes being
exhibited on the list.
I have patiently read all the anti Z 3 messages and I think some of you guys
have been breathing too many gas fumes!. How many of the ones that ran
down the Z 3 actually owned one?? I had 2 of them ( I walked away from a
head -on collision by an unlicensed truck driver in the first one) . I also
have a BN 6 and BJ 7. I traded the z 3 in on the new BMW X 5 SAV
because of the need for more space on long road trips.
Gentlemen, I can tell you that without a doubt, the Z 3 ran circles around
the Healeys as far as performance, driving comfort, & safety ( If the
collision happened in a Healey - I would have "Bought the Farm") I received
many, many compliments on the styling.
I love the Healeys as they provide me with a nostalgia trip as I had one
back in 1958. I love automobiles in general and my world is big enough to
allow me to respect and appreciate other marques and their owners . I
attended a rally a few years ago and I was told that "you can always tell
Healey owners - they are the ones with the Gucci attache case tool kits".
Enough of this snobbish stuff!!!
Larry Wysocki
BN 6
BJ 7
Lumina
X5 (on order)
From "Patrick QUINN" <QUINNP at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Wed, 07 Jun 2000 09:45:21 +1000
Subject: Waving
Greetings
Camaraderie between classic car owners is one of my favourite subjects, but
more of that later.
However I will agree there is definitely a pecking order. I wave at all classic
car owners. Before it was recently stolen I used to drive a Mini to and from
the railway station to catch the train to work. Frequently I used to pass a
chap in a MG Magnette saloon and I would always wave and he would never wave
back. On occasions when I would travel in our MKII Jaguar I would still wave
and sure enough he would wave back. Mini drivers would always wave back.
I hate to be the denizen of doom, but there are unseen forces at work out there
who would rather see us out of our older cars and into new ones. In Australia
there are a number of peak bodies that represent classic car clubs at all
levels of government. I would hate to see the day when we are legislated to
only use our cars at certain times of the year or even not at all.
All of this brings me back to camaraderie between classic car owners and the
importance as being seen as together in our pursuits. So what if you wave at a
classic sedan or non British car, yes even a Porsche.
Last week I was out in the BN3 and I passed and waved at a line of 1950s Ford
Thunderbirds whose owners all waved back. Not ten minutes later it was the same
with a group of Packards followed by a flock of Citroens. I ignored my wife's
protestations as it's what classic car ownership is all about. Being out and
about, enjoying a common hobby and pastime.
Regards and a big wave to you all
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 20:06:42 EDT
Subject: Re: Waves
Easy Don, I think we're just having a little fun here.
John
100-Six Erika the Red
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 20:10:27 EDT
Subject: Re: Waves
In a message dated 06/06/2000 5:05:36 PM Central Daylight Time,
Jim_Hill@chsra.wisc.edu writes:
<< I wouldn't initiate a wave at a Porche . . . >>
Geez, Jim, how could you?? Can't even spell it right!!
It is PORCH, right??
Ed
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 17:24:27 -0700
Subject: Re: Waving
"Flock of Citroens" easy now, lets not push this waving thing to far. There
is a limit you know....Neil ;-)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Patrick QUINN" <QUINNP@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 4:45 PM
Subject: Waving
>
> Greetings
>
> Camaraderie between classic car owners is one of my favourite subjects,
but more of that later.
>
> However I will agree there is definitely a pecking order. I wave at all
classic car owners. Before it was recently stolen I used to drive a Mini to
and from the railway station to catch the train to work. Frequently I used
to pass a chap in a MG Magnette saloon and I would always wave and he would
never wave back. On occasions when I would travel in our MKII Jaguar I would
still wave and sure enough he would wave back. Mini drivers would always
wave back.
>
> I hate to be the denizen of doom, but there are unseen forces at work out
there who would rather see us out of our older cars and into new ones. In
Australia there are a number of peak bodies that represent classic car clubs
at all levels of government. I would hate to see the day when we are
legislated to only use our cars at certain times of the year or even not at
all.
>
> All of this brings me back to camaraderie between classic car owners and
the importance as being seen as together in our pursuits. So what if you
wave at a classic sedan or non British car, yes even a Porsche.
>
> Last week I was out in the BN3 and I passed and waved at a line of 1950s
Ford Thunderbirds whose owners all waved back. Not ten minutes later it was
the same with a group of Packards followed by a flock of Citroens. I ignored
my wife's protestations as it's what classic car ownership is all about.
Being out and about, enjoying a common hobby and pastime.
>
> Regards and a big wave to you all
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
>
> 1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
> 1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
>
>
>
From William Moyer <William.Moyer at millersv.edu>
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 20:37:31 -0400
Subject: RE: M/C Waves
-----Original Message-----
From: kirk kvam
Let's define this wave, a little further,
Is that ?? Left hand, Right hand, or Both hands.
Now that the Waves thread is longer than the kitty footprint thread, let me
add to the noise by pointing out that there -is- a difference in waves.
Motorcyclists wave left handed because that is the non-throttle hand, at
least on all the bikes I've owned. Porsche owners lift one finger off the
steering wheel, usually the right index finger, moving it no more than 2cm
up and down, you have to watch closely, but it is there. Triumph owners
salute, right handed a la the Palace Guards. Jaguar owners are too busy
worrying about the temperature of the wine in the boot to even know you are
there, but if they notice you, they'll nod. Healey owners combine the wave
with tossing you a can of malt beverage, to be consumed later, of course.
Bill Moyer, BJ7, waves at almost all cars over 30 years old, even when I'm
driving my ecodestroying Explorer, which must confuse the hell out of them.
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 20:39:14 EDT
Subject: Re: Waves & exhaust Turn off
In a message dated 6/6/00 7:43:06 PM, LarryRPH@aol.com writes:
<<"you can always tell
Healey owners - they are the ones with the Gucci attache case tool kits".>>
I thought those were the Ferrari guys!
You big Healey types are forgetting Rule #1: Everybody waves first to the
Bugeye!
(still remember the great feeling when a brand new E-type gave me the wave
and light-flash when I was 16 and driving a 8 year-old bugeye).
And as far as the BMWs and Porsches go, I drool over the M-Roadster and
Boxster S
every time I see one. I've driven the 6-cylinder Z-3 and it's a great ride.
Personally, I think we live in a golden age for car nuts with an incredible
selection of enthusiast cars that do just about everything perfectly. The
only down side is they cost too much and can't be serviced by your average
backyard mechanic.
You'll have to pry my Healeys from my cold, dead hands, but that doesn't mean
I can't enjoy the new toys too.
Rick
AN5, BJ7, 95 Z/28, and godfather to my son's 320is
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 20:53:55 -0400
Subject: Stange brit colors
Iris blue and dove grey arent that bad. Alamo beige maybe but I once had a
75 midget factory painted limeflower! Talk about yuk ! Any other horrid
paint color stories?
btw Im getting seasick ,it's awful wavy on the list tonite !
Carroll
From JohnbS7257 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 21:03:35 EDT
Subject: Re: Waves
They outlawed the human waves at our local ice arena after a couple of the
locals drowned.
John Stevens
"Ruby" BJ8 27621
JohnbS7257@aol.com
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 21:15:15 -0400
Subject: waving and german cars
I currently am working on three german cars in my shop, besides my british
mainstays of healeys and jags .
if any of you have ever had the pleasure to work on any of these fine
automobiles let alone drive certain models you would appreciate each
manufacturers idealolgy of building cars. To say to each his own is your
loss,not mine.
Carroll Phillips Top Down Restorations
BTW it's PORSCHE with an ' S '
From BGAHC at aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 21:27:32 EDT
Subject: Re: "Jamaican" kit car
About seven years ago I was working the Healey Club booth at an indoor car
show on a cold day in February. An old farmer came up and told me about a
Jamaican he had in the barn.
long story short - He wanted to sell it and I was bored enough to buy it. For
$2500 I dragged the car home and was driving it after two hours work. I have
photos at http://members.aol.com/BGAHC/jamacian.html.
It was unique and fun for a while. I eventually sold it to another Healey
owner who parted it out for more than the complete car was worth.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
1957 BN4 Rally Car
1966 BJ8
From "Mike & Kerry Gigante" <mikeg at vicnet.net.au>
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 11:06:01 +1000
Subject: Re: waving and german cars
I don't know about everyone else, but amongst my group
of friends and racers, we refer to "those Porsche wankers"
because of the attitude of many of the drivers. I personally
admire the engineering, quality and performance.
However, unlike the vast majority of LBC owners (who
are true enthusiasts), a significant portion of Porsche
owners have one and drive it around for reasons like
perceived status (and treat non-exoticar owners as
status-free).
I have no problems at all with the true Porsche enthusiast,
after all, they suffer from the same disease as us, just with
slightly different symptoms!!
cheers, Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "bjcap" <bjcap@frontiernet.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 07, 2000 11:15 AM
Subject: waving and german cars
>
> I currently am working on three german cars in my shop, besides my british
> mainstays of healeys and jags .
> if any of you have ever had the pleasure to work on any of these fine
> automobiles let alone drive certain models you would appreciate each
> manufacturers idealolgy of building cars. To say to each his own is your
> loss,not mine.
>
> Carroll Phillips Top Down Restorations
>
> BTW it's PORSCHE with an ' S '
>
>
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 21:44:51 EDT
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note Turnoff...Waves
In a message dated 6/6/00 10:10:22 AM, DMMax@aol.com writes:
<<
OK Listers...
Where do older Loti fit in here ???
David Maxwell and the ever Bri-ish Mrs. Peel >>
Above Triumphs and MGs, below Jaguars. Based on costs, probably would expect
the Healey to wave first.
Cheers
Gary
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 21:47:15 EDT
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note Turnoff...Waves
In a message dated 6/6/00 11:13:25 AM, 62BT7@prodigy.net writes:
<< But break my fingers if your LBC friends catch you waiving to a (snob)
Porsche. >>
To quote the old joke,
"That wasn't a porch, that was a Mercedes."
Cheers
gary
From "Colin O'Brien" <cob at atg.com.au>
Date: Wed, 07 Jun 2000 11:58:29 +1000
Subject: Re: waving and German cars
Hi everyone,
I enjoy this list immensely, especially when we get a thread going like this
one (it gives an insight into the personalities hidden behind the emails!).
The problem is I also own a Porsche so I'm feeling a bit vulnerable!! Just
remember that Porsches probably are the most successful sports car ever,
both on the track and in rally's (that's going to get an argument going!!).
My Healey is the one that I drive at every opportunity and the last car I'd
sell, except for the utility family car that we all have to have, but my
Porsche gives me faultless supercar performance, every time, any weather,
without fail. Please only give Porsche owners a hard time if they don't
own Healeys!
Regards and a wave (!) to all,
Colin O'Brien
BJ8 ph1
BN7 MK1 (hopefully as I'm about to buy, ship and restore it!)
Range Rover 1980
Porsche 993 Targa
Mercedes A190
--
> From: "bjcap" <bjcap@frontiernet.net>
> Reply-To: "bjcap" <bjcap@frontiernet.net>
> Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 21:15:15 -0400
> To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: waving and german cars
>
>
> I currently am working on three german cars in my shop, besides my british
> mainstays of healeys and jags .
> if any of you have ever had the pleasure to work on any of these fine
> automobiles let alone drive certain models you would appreciate each
> manufacturers idealolgy of building cars. To say to each his own is your
> loss,not mine.
>
> Carroll Phillips Top Down Restorations
>
> BTW it's PORSCHE with an ' S '
>
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 22:00:59 EDT
Subject: Re: Waves
In a message dated 6/6/00 2:22:54 PM, BN4L@aol.com writes:
<< Almost all riders of real motorcycles still wave regradless of make, of
course, this leaves out the putt-putt Harley people. >>
Don't know about you, but I get waves from Harley folks all the time when I'm
in the Healey. And I don't think it's my haircut.
Cheers
Gary
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 22:02:22 EDT
Subject: Re: M/C Waves
In a message dated 6/6/00 3:46:05 PM, 62BT7@prodigy.net writes:
<<
Let's define this wave, a little further,
Is that ?? Left hand, Right hand, or Both hands. >>
These days, the appropriate greeting to any sports car older than a Miata is
a nice thumbs-up.
Cheers
Gary
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 22:07:46 EDT
Subject: Re: Waves & exhaust Turn off
In a message dated 6/6/00 5:59:55 PM, HealeyRic2@aol.com writes:
<<
You'll have to pry my Healeys from my cold, dead hands, but that doesn't mean
I can't enjoy the new toys too. >>
But don't wave to them. If they take the hand that isn't holding the
cellphone off the wheel, they may run into something.
Cheers
Gary
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 22:10:44 EDT
Subject: Re: waving and German cars
In a message dated 06/06/2000 9:00:12 PM Central Daylight Time,
cob@atg.com.au writes:
<< The problem is I also own a Porsche so I'm feeling a bit vulnerable!! >>
Geeez, Colin, I'll bet!!! Not everyone gets to operate a "glorified" Volks
called a "Porch"!!! Get rid of er "it" and get a real car !!
Frogeyes RULE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Cheers............
Ed
'63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)
(Past Owner [regretfully] of '61 Frogeye and 3 thereafter)
From Larry Dickstein <bugide at tfs.net>
Date: Tue, 06 Jun 2000 21:16:56 -0500
Subject: Re: Waves
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 6/6/00 2:22:54 PM, BN4L@aol.com writes:
>
> << Almost all riders of real motorcycles still wave regradless of make, of
> course, this leaves out the putt-putt Harley people. >>
>
> Don't know about you, but I get waves from Harley folks all the time when I'm
> in the Healey. And I don't think it's my haircut.
> Cheers
> Gary
Heck, Gary, when I was a big city policeman, all the Harley people waved at me.
The difference is that when I'm driving my Healey, they wave w/ all five
fingers.
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
'97 Harley Heritage plus assorted British stuff!
From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 22:19:45 EDT
Subject: Re: M/C Waves
In a message dated 6/6/00 5:40:38 PM Central Daylight Time, 62BT7@prodigy.net
writes:
<< Let's define this wave, a little further,
Is that ?? Left hand, Right hand, or Both hands.
>>
Whichever one is not busy keeping the side curtains from rattling or holding
the top on!
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
From William Moyer <William.Moyer at millersv.edu>
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 22:43:04 -0400
Subject: bugeye purchasing research
Fellow enthusiasts,
A couple of weeks ago I suggested that a potential bugeye purchaser consult
a definitive article in British Car. The Editor, well known to us as Gary
A. asked that I supply the reference. This is a bit like God asking you to
supply the chapter and verse in Job in which Job is assaulted by boils.
Well, the June-July 1997 issue of British Car will give you a one page
buyers guide to the Sprite and Midget by that other popular lister, Rick
Feibusch. Good points, bad points, valuation, the whole deal.
But, the one I was thinking of was really in the Classic and Sportscar July,
1996 issue. A really informative 8 page guide to the bugeye which amounts
to a sales pitch, deservedly so.
I'm sure each of these fine magazines sells back issues and these two are
entirely worthy of purchase. They will make anyone a more informed
purchaser or seller. Sellers need the largest reality checks, in my
experience.
Cheers,
Bill Moyer, BJ7, with lust in his heart for the Frogeye
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 22:48:23 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: RE: Grease fittings
Zerk fittings frequently get clogged with grit. Unscrew them (a 1/4" or 5/16"
wrench I think) and clean them out from the inside and make sure the tiny
ball-bearing moves in and out.
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
> Bill, I have run across the same problem. My solution was to buy a new
> grease connection to the grease gun. Apparently the rubber seal in the
> connection had dried out so the grease would not force the connection to
> close around the fitting and force the grease into the fitting. Take the
> grease gun connection apart and you will see what I talking about.
> Hope this helps
> Richard
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> > [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Bill Katz
> > Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 2:52 PM
> > To: healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Grease fittings
> >
> >
> >
> > I am having a hard time getting grease to go into some of my
> > fittings. The
> > nipples seem slightly smaller than a standard size, and my gun's clamping
> > mechanism lets it ooze out around the edges. Has anyone seen a
> > special end
> > for a regular hand-pump gun, or do I need to replace the nipples with
> > larger ones. (No jokes please!)
> >
> > TIA
> >
> > Bill Katz
> > Bay Area, CA
> > '67 BJ8
> > '94 325is
> > http://www.handsonresearch.com/healey
> >
> >
>
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From "Wayne Irons" <wayne at royal.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 22:56:30 -0400
Subject: More fuel stories...
So this past weekend, I decided to replace the leaking fuel filter on my
Healey with a new one. I got a cute little glass & chrome number to go
under the bonnet. I decided to try a trick on the Healey that you are
supposed to use on modern cars. Disconnect the fuel pump, and run the car
till it stalls. It worked, the car stalled, but the darned old filter was
still all full of fuel.
But the real story is what I discovered when I pulled up the seat pan. I
took a look at the fuel pump and said, "what the heck is that?!" It's a
pump which I can see says "SU CARBURETORS" on it, and it's held to the
bracket by a large U-Bolt around the body.
And, of course, the fuel hoses back there are a cracked disaster, and I
suppose they're the next to go....
Wayne
BT7 TriCarb
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 23:00:38 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note Turnoff...Waves
100S and 100M, among others, have no roll-up windows do they?
I think the real reason is there are more candy-asses than hard-asses left. Or
should I have said Rugged Individualists.
Dick
---- you wrote:
> Is that why the windowless ones sell for less--VBG:)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: dickb@cheerful.com <dickb@cheerful.com>
> To: JustBrits@aol.com <JustBrits@aol.com>; austin healey list
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 2:24 PM
> Subject: Re: Exhaust Note Turnoff...Waves
>
>
> >
> >Some of us distinguish between genuine Austin-Healeys and BJ7s and 8s.
> "Real" ones don't have windows.
> >
> ><big G>
> >
> >DickB '62 BT7 Tri-Carb
> >
> > ---- you wrote:
> >>
> >> In a message dated 06/06/2000 10:26:42 AM Central Daylight Time,
> >> CAWS52803@aol.com writes:
> >>
> >> << And a Healey convertible would wave first to a Healey roadster! >>
> >>
> >> Other way around, Rudy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> >>
> >> Ed
> >> '63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)
> >>
> >
> >
> >----------------------------------------------------------------
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 23:01:07 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note Turnoff...Waves
100S and 100M, among others, have no roll-up windows do they?
I think the real reason is there are more candy-asses than hard-asses left. Or
should I have said Rugged Individualists.
Dick
---- you wrote:
> Is that why the windowless ones sell for less--VBG:)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: dickb@cheerful.com <dickb@cheerful.com>
> To: JustBrits@aol.com <JustBrits@aol.com>; austin healey list
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 2:24 PM
> Subject: Re: Exhaust Note Turnoff...Waves
>
>
> >
> >Some of us distinguish between genuine Austin-Healeys and BJ7s and 8s.
> "Real" ones don't have windows.
> >
> ><big G>
> >
> >DickB '62 BT7 Tri-Carb
> >
> > ---- you wrote:
> >>
> >> In a message dated 06/06/2000 10:26:42 AM Central Daylight Time,
> >> CAWS52803@aol.com writes:
> >>
> >> << And a Healey convertible would wave first to a Healey roadster! >>
> >>
> >> Other way around, Rudy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> >>
> >> Ed
> >> '63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)
> >>
> >
> >
> >----------------------------------------------------------------
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From "kirk kvam" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 20:03:58 -0700
Subject: Re: Waves/Navel Waves
Now that we have all sorts of waveing going on, how about the two legged
female "U.S. Navy" wave ??? Any out here experience one ???]
Kirk Kvam
62BT7#3
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 7:00 PM
Subject: Re: Waves
>
>
> In a message dated 6/6/00 2:22:54 PM, BN4L@aol.com writes:
>
> << Almost all riders of real motorcycles still wave regradless of make, of
> course, this leaves out the putt-putt Harley people. >>
>
> Don't know about you, but I get waves from Harley folks all the time when
I'm
> in the Healey. And I don't think it's my haircut.
> Cheers
> Gary
From "Ron Schonscheck" <schonny at y2consult.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 21:27:13 -0600
Subject: Re: Grease fittings
Throw them out and replace for Pete's sakes.
----- Original Message -----
From: <dickb@cheerful.com>
To: Richard E. Pratt <prattri@email.msn.com>; austin healey list
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 8:48 PM
Subject: RE: Grease fittings
>
> Zerk fittings frequently get clogged with grit. Unscrew them (a 1/4" or
5/16" wrench I think) and clean them out from the inside and make sure the
tiny ball-bearing moves in and out.
>
> DickB
>
>
> ---- you wrote:
> >
> > Bill, I have run across the same problem. My solution was to buy a new
> > grease connection to the grease gun. Apparently the rubber seal in the
> > connection had dried out so the grease would not force the connection to
> > close around the fitting and force the grease into the fitting. Take the
> > grease gun connection apart and you will see what I talking about.
> > Hope this helps
> > Richard
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> > > [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Bill Katz
> > > Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 2:52 PM
> > > To: healeys@autox.team.net
> > > Subject: Grease fittings
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > I am having a hard time getting grease to go into some of my
> > > fittings. The
> > > nipples seem slightly smaller than a standard size, and my gun's
clamping
> > > mechanism lets it ooze out around the edges. Has anyone seen a
> > > special end
> > > for a regular hand-pump gun, or do I need to replace the nipples with
> > > larger ones. (No jokes please!)
> > >
> > > TIA
> > >
> > > Bill Katz
> > > Bay Area, CA
> > > '67 BJ8
> > > '94 325is
> > > http://www.handsonresearch.com/healey
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
>
From Mark Fawcett <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
Date: Tue, 06 Jun 2000 20:37:21 -0700
Subject: Re: SV: SV: Caliper Bridge Bolts
Where can you get the "square cut o-rings" ?
Mark Fawcett
Michael Salter wrote:
> Karlsson Magnus wrote:
>
> > Ed
> >
> > If you think it´s better to run 35 years old calipers unrestored, fine by
>me.
> >
> > I´m not claiming to be THE most renowned expert. In my experience it is
>pretty safe since I´ve done it many times as long as the bolts seem to be ok
>and I haven´t had a failure yet. I have always been wondering about why it is
>supposed to be so dangerous to split the calipers especially considering the
>age of the square o-rings in them. I feel a lot safer when these are replaced.
>It´s also strange that Girling wont supply these o rings nor the bolts.
> >
> > I suspect that the recommendations of the companies have to do with legal
>responsibilities on their part for eventual failures.
> >
> > Magnus Karlsson
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <JustBrits@aol.com>
> > To: <healey@telia.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 4:06 AM
> > Subject: Re: SV: Caliper Bridge Bolts
> >
> > > In a message dated 06/05/2000 8:59:04 PM Central Daylight Time,
> > > healey@telia.com writes:
> > >
> > > <<
> > > It´s pretty safe to reuse the bolts as long as they have not been over
> > > torqued.>>
> > >
> > > Magnus: That is the single MOST stupid thing I have EVER read. Just how
>do
> > > you know?? And since Lucas/Girling and GMC and FMC all say not to re-use
> > > bolts; how have you :instantly" become THE most renowned expert???
> > >
> > > <<By the way I think its much safer to split these old calipers in order
>to
> > > renew the square cut o-ring than not doing it. >>
> > >
> > > And that is a "damned if you do and damned if you don't" kind of phrase,
>huh??
> > >
> > > Ed
> > >
> > > PS: Oh yeah, add SAE to the above list.
>
> Ed,
>
> I have to agree with Karlsson on this one. The company who have been
>rebuilding calipers for us for 28 years report exactly the same findings as
>Karlsson. The chances are that the half to half seal will have deteriorated
>and could leak. they reuse the same bolts unless there is some evidence of
>damage and have NEVER had a problem with bolts not holding up. They rebuild
>about 50-60 calipers a day.
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Tue, 06 Jun 2000 22:06:38 -0500
Subject: Re: Waves
Fellows
Maybe you've overlooked the real British "sports car".
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
'65 BJ8
'89 Morgan 4/4
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 00:36:52 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: SV: SV: Caliper Bridge Bolts
Pegasus - in Milwaukee
---- you wrote:
>
> Where can you get the "square cut o-rings" ?
> Mark Fawcett
>
> Michael Salter wrote:
>
> > Karlsson Magnus wrote:
> >
> > > Ed
> > >
> > > If you think it´s better to run 35 years old calipers unrestored, fine by
>me.
> > >
> > > I´m not claiming to be THE most renowned expert. In my experience it is
>pretty safe since I´ve done it many times as long as the bolts seem to be ok
>and I haven´t had a failure yet. I have always been wondering about why it is
>supposed to be so dangerous to split the calipers especially considering the
>age of the square o-rings in them. I feel a lot safer when these are replaced.
>It´s also strange that Girling wont supply these o rings nor the bolts.
> > >
> > > I suspect that the recommendations of the companies have to do with legal
>responsibilities on their part for eventual failures.
> > >
> > > Magnus Karlsson
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: <JustBrits@aol.com>
> > > To: <healey@telia.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 4:06 AM
> > > Subject: Re: SV: Caliper Bridge Bolts
> > >
> > > > In a message dated 06/05/2000 8:59:04 PM Central Daylight Time,
> > > > healey@telia.com writes:
> > > >
> > > > <<
> > > > It´s pretty safe to reuse the bolts as long as they have not been over
> > > > torqued.>>
> > > >
> > > > Magnus: That is the single MOST stupid thing I have EVER read. Just
>how do
> > > > you know?? And since Lucas/Girling and GMC and FMC all say not to
>re-use
> > > > bolts; how have you :instantly" become THE most renowned expert???
> > > >
> > > > <<By the way I think its much safer to split these old calipers in
>order to
> > > > renew the square cut o-ring than not doing it. >>
> > > >
> > > > And that is a "damned if you do and damned if you don't" kind of
>phrase, huh??
> > > >
> > > > Ed
> > > >
> > > > PS: Oh yeah, add SAE to the above list.
> >
> > Ed,
> >
> > I have to agree with Karlsson on this one. The company who have been
>rebuilding calipers for us for 28 years report exactly the same findings as
>Karlsson. The chances are that the half to half seal will have deteriorated
>and could leak. they reuse the same bolts unless there is some evidence of
>damage and have NEVER had a problem with bolts not holding up. They rebuild
>about 50-60 calipers a day.
> > --
> > Regards,
> >
> > Mike Salter
> > http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> > >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From "Andy King" <healey-100 at hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 19:48:44 -1000
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note Turnoff...Waves
Well, I have a hundred and a BJ8 neither of which will be on the road
anytime soon, so if I can't find somone to loan me a running Porche, I am
gonna go wave at myself in the mirror. Problem is, with one roadster and
one convertible I sure hope I wave with the correct hand, I would'nt want to
offend myself.
Cheers,
Andy
----- Original Message -----
From: <dickb@cheerful.com>
To: <JustBrits@aol.com>; "austin healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 7:24 AM
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note Turnoff...Waves
>
> Some of us distinguish between genuine Austin-Healeys and BJ7s and 8s.
"Real" ones don't have windows.
>
> <big G>
>
> DickB '62 BT7 Tri-Carb
>
> ---- you wrote:
> >
> > In a message dated 06/06/2000 10:26:42 AM Central Daylight Time,
> > CAWS52803@aol.com writes:
> >
> > << And a Healey convertible would wave first to a Healey roadster! >>
> >
> > Other way around, Rudy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> >
> > Ed
> > '63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)
> >
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
From bn1 at flashcom.net
Date: Tue, 06 Jun 2000 20:31:07 -0700
Subject: Let the flames begin!
I'm sorry, listers. I subscribe to two lists. One is moderated and
this one is not. I average about 90 emails a day.
IMHO the Healey list has degenerated significantly. Today there were
at least 30 emails that had nothing to do with helping an owner with
his car, answering a question or supplying info about an event.
On my moderated list, such would have been rejected back to the sender.
Of course I want to read everything about Healeys. However, I really
don't give a s**t about who waves to who!
OK, the asbestos underwear is on!
Bill Barnett
Santa Ana, CA
BN1 #663
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 22:38:53 -0400
Subject: Re: Running Temps
For oil pressure, 20# idle and 40# at 3000 rpm on a fully warmed up
engine is what mine ran before I had it rebuilt. I was told that it was
marginal but I drove it like that for 24k miles before the number 3
piston broke a ring and forced the rebuild.
When Bruce Phillips took the engine apart, the only other major
problem that he found was a badly worn camshaft which was,
as far as I know, unrelated on the "marginal" oil pressure.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1963 BJ7
1980 MGB
----- Original Message -----
From: TC <tm-c@gmx.net>
To: Healey Chat <healeys@autox.team.net>; Healey List
<majordomo@autox.team.net>; <healeys-owner@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 05, 2000 3:44 PM
Subject: Running Temps
Hi listers
what is the ideal range of temperatures for a BJ8 as far as water and
oil temp is concerned?
When is the engine considered warm and at running temperature?
Another thing.
When the engine is hot (comming back from a long drive on the highway)
the oil pressure while idling more or less disappears. Under load the
pressure is fine: when cold up to 60PSI and then dropping to 40PSI under
normal load and 20 idling.
Is this something to worry about or nothing to worry about?
Cheers
Tim
BJ8´67
From hspethmann at t-online.de (hspethmann)
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 11:08:15 +0200
Subject: Re: Austria and Switzerland and british cars
Not to forget the Rosso-Bianco Museum in Aschaffenburg, Germany. They have one
of the biggest collection of Italian cars, Ferrari, Alfa-Romeo, Lancia,Abarth,
also Lotus, Lola and Mc Laren. It's great!
infos on: http://www.rosso-bianco.de
So you can make a trip around Europe, not only Austria and Switzerland :-)
Achim, Germany
1964 BJ8
From "James Sailer" <sailer at srv.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 04:45:32 -0600
Subject: RE: Waves
Yeah Colin, I'd wave to an old Rangie... especially if I could see a
cooler..
Jim
-----Original Message-----
From: Colin O'Brien [mailto:cob@atg.com.au]
Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 6:57 PM
To: James Sailer
Subject: Re: Waves
What about 20 year old two door Rangie, I get waves from those drivers.
However rarely does anyone ever wave at me in my Porsche, the exception
would be another Porsche owner who appreciates the car for it's abilites
rather than it's pose factor.
The difference with the Healey is that everyone wants to talk to you or
acknowledge by a wave what classic cars they are - it's the smile factor.
Does anyone else on this list own a Porsche or a Rangie?
Regards and a wave (!) to all,
Colin O'Brien
BJ8 ph1
BN7 MK1 (hopefully as I'm about to by and ship it!)
Range Rover 1980
Porsche 993 Targa
Mercedes A190
--
> From: "James Sailer" <sailer@srv.net>
> Reply-To: "James Sailer" <sailer@srv.net>
> Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 17:28:03 -0600
> To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Waves
>
>
> Drive a Land Rover (a Series vehicle or Defender - not a Disco or Rangie)
> and see the waves you get... or rather... the meetings you have as both
> vehicles drive off the road, turn-around and you share a cold adult hopped
> beverage....
>
> Jim Sailer
> 66 BJ8
> 93 Land Rover D110 - w/full cooler always in place for waves
>
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 07 Jun 2000 04:59:14 -0400
Subject: Re: SV: SV: Caliper Bridge Bolts
We have them......
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
dickb@cheerful.com wrote:
> Pegasus - in Milwaukee
>
> ---- you wrote:
> >
> > Where can you get the "square cut o-rings" ?
> > Mark Fawcett
> >
> > Michael Salter wrote:
> >
> > > Karlsson Magnus wrote:
> > >
> > > > Ed
> > > >
> > > > If you think it´s better to run 35 years old calipers unrestored, fine
>by me.
> > > >
> > > > I´m not claiming to be THE most renowned expert. In my experience it is
>pretty safe since I´ve done it many times as long as the bolts seem to be ok
>and I haven´t had a failure yet. I have always been wondering about why it is
>supposed to be so dangerous to split the calipers especially considering the
>age of the square o-rings in them. I feel a lot safer when these are replaced.
>It´s also strange that Girling wont supply these o rings nor the bolts.
> > > >
> > > > I suspect that the recommendations of the companies have to do with
>legal responsibilities on their part for eventual failures.
> > > >
> > > > Magnus Karlsson
> > > >
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: <JustBrits@aol.com>
> > > > To: <healey@telia.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > > Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 4:06 AM
> > > > Subject: Re: SV: Caliper Bridge Bolts
> > > >
> > > > > In a message dated 06/05/2000 8:59:04 PM Central Daylight Time,
> > > > > healey@telia.com writes:
> > > > >
> > > > > <<
> > > > > It´s pretty safe to reuse the bolts as long as they have not been
>over
> > > > > torqued.>>
> > > > >
> > > > > Magnus: That is the single MOST stupid thing I have EVER read. Just
>how do
> > > > > you know?? And since Lucas/Girling and GMC and FMC all say not to
>re-use
> > > > > bolts; how have you :instantly" become THE most renowned expert???
> > > > >
> > > > > <<By the way I think its much safer to split these old calipers in
>order to
> > > > > renew the square cut o-ring than not doing it. >>
> > > > >
> > > > > And that is a "damned if you do and damned if you don't" kind of
>phrase, huh??
> > > > >
> > > > > Ed
> > > > >
> > > > > PS: Oh yeah, add SAE to the above list.
> > >
> > > Ed,
> > >
> > > I have to agree with Karlsson on this one. The company who have been
>rebuilding calipers for us for 28 years report exactly the same findings as
>Karlsson. The chances are that the half to half seal will have deteriorated
>and could leak. they reuse the same bolts unless there is some evidence of
>damage and have NEVER had a problem with bolts not holding up. They rebuild
>about 50-60 calipers a day.
> > > --
> > > Regards,
> > >
> > > Mike Salter
> > > http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> > > >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> >
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 06:40:27 -0400
Subject: My last note on WAVES
Folks, I had a college roommate in 1959/1960, Larry Fredrickson, from North
Dakota. He bought a new 1959 MGA and we did a lot of cruising in it under
the warm Southern California Sun. I remember the "wave" thing from back
then.
I remember the "pecking order" somewhat. I thought it was stupid then, and
I still do.
I moved here to Kentucky in 1990 and found that people wave at each other
for friendliness and a way of saying "Hi Neighbor". We don't give a
possum's patoot what kind of car the guy drives.
I am a square dance caller and have been square dancing for 17 years and we
have people from all walks of life who enjoy the activity, just like Healey
owners enjoy the activity. We have Doctors, Lawyers, Policemen,
Politicians, and just plain folks like me. It is ALL about having fun and
being friendly, not about who has the fanciest title or biggest car.
I guess I'm just a hard headed old hillbilly but I refuse to salute, wave,
or acknowledge anyone based on their possessions or titles. And if I wave
at someone and they don't wave back, that's fine. Maybe they are having a
bad day or maybe they aren't the "friendly" type.
I remember getting chewed out by a little old ninety day wonder when I
served aboard the U.S.S. Helena (CA75) (54-57) because I didn't salute.
Later I saw him walking down the street in Long Beach, CA with a suitcase
under each arm and one in each hand.
You guessed it, I stopped ten feet away and saluted, held the salute until
he sat down his burden and returned the salute, then laughed all the way
back to the ship.
But back in those days you "had" to salute. Now I don't.
Don
BN7
From "RR Moss" <rr_moss at hotmail.com>
Date: Wed, 07 Jun 2000 11:43:00 GMT
Subject: Square cut o-rings
Has Pegasus an e-mail or contact address?
<< Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 00:36:52 -0400 (EDT)
<< dickb@cheerful.com
<< Subject: Re: SV: SV: Caliper Bridge Bolts
<< Pegasus - in Milwaukee
---- you wrote:
>
>Where can you get the "square cut o-rings" ?
>Mark Fawcett>>
________________________________________________________________________
From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 08:41:06 EDT
Subject: Rear hub nut
Help! Does anyone have a trick way to get the 8-sided hub nuts off of the rear
axle(BJ8) without the factory tool? What size socket will work best or am I
going to have to make another tool? The nuts measure 2 3/16 from flat to flat,
but a standard 12 point socket that size will not work...any suggestions?
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
From "Richard E. Pratt" <prattri at email.msn.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 08:58:53 -0400
Subject: RE: Top Frame Problem
John,
What I have done on my BJ8 was to remove the tacks holding the top to the
front bow and at each window. I found that after adjusting the hold down
clamps, I was able to get the frame to align properly at the windows. I
noted the bow was now hanging over the windshield by 1/2 inch. I marked the
bow, removed and cut back to get the proper fit with the windshield. I than
pulled the top back over the bow, making sure I could put the top up without
to much pulling on the frame. The original fold of the top over the bow was
now about 1/2" shorter. Since the top was new(installed by PO), I was able
to clean up the top at the edge of the bow so that it looked OK. You might
find that your top would not clean up and show a dirt or fade line along the
edge of the bow. I suspect the original problem is that the car frame has
sagged down causing the top frame to become too long. Hope this helps. If I
have not been clear, please contact me. I would be happy to clarify.
Richard
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of John Loftus
> Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 4:28 PM
> To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
> Subject: Top Frame Problem
>
>
>
> Hi all,
>
> Having a problem with the convertible top frame.
>
> The wood strip which is positioned along the top edge of the roll up
> window does not line up with the wood strip along the rear edge of the
> window. It is about 1" too low. This occurs on both sides of the car.
>
> The top frame appears to be in good shape otherwise and I can't figure
> out how to make any adjustments to alleviate the problem. Even if I
> physically try to push the strip into position, it will not budge.
>
> This does not appear to be a RTA repair or RTM repair <G> so any help is
> appreciated.
>
>
> Cheers,
> John Loftus
> BJ7
>
From ccruz at tribune.com
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 08:32:00 -0500
Subject: Waving & Flashing
Listers,
Before I get on the subject - I got to tell you how much I wish there
was a pub around the corner where we could all get together for a beer
and a brawl. Some of you guys are just down right funny on email. I
can only imagine what you would be like in person. I constantly tell
my wife how much I look forward to this list everyday. It's like a
soap opera!
So, now onto the subject. There's been a great discussion on the
importance of waving to each other. Just a side comment - this is a
great discussion after coming off the manners & respect topic. I have
just a few questions after all the writing and banter back and forth.
After you've made the decision to wave to another car/driver, is
deciding whether to use the left or right hand impacted by a left or
right hand drive car?
For those of us in the to-be-waved-to category (older Healeys with
side curtains): If the side curtains are in place, is it considered
rude if you can't get your arm out the window fast enough before the
other car passes?
Since we drive British cars, should we wave like her Majesty, the
Queen - stiff handed with the twist at the wrist and palm toward you.
Or, when driving in America should we wave like Americans - no defined
style?
For those of you with vivid recollection of 50's & 60's driving
experiences and can remember a chart in a magazine published 30-40
years ago (30-something here): Is flashing ones low/high beam
considered to be the same as a wave? If so, does the same pecking
order apply as well?
Keep 'm on the road & wave to anyone crazy enough to drive an antique
- you might just bring a smile to their face.
Best regards,
Carlos Cruz
PS: Are you guys holding out on me? Where can I get one of those
Gucci attaché case tool kits for my Poorsha? ;-0
From "John J. Black" <transmancat at bbnow.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 08:37:43 -0700
Subject: RE: Austria and Switzerland and British cars
Hi Guys
I can echo what Achim says, The Rosso Bianco collection in Ashaffenburg is a
great collection of cars and art work. Peter Kaus (the owner) is a real
gent, an enthusiast, and a pretty good racer in his own right. If you get
the chance to see the cars ask about the art collection as it was not on
show to the public.
Regards
John J Black
Waterloo Drivetrain Systems
http://www.waterloo-dtr.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of hspethmann
Sent: Wednesday, June 07, 2000 2:08 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Austria and Switzerland and british cars
Not to forget the Rosso-Bianco Museum in Aschaffenburg, Germany. They have
one
of the biggest collection of Italian cars, Ferrari, Alfa-Romeo,
Lancia,Abarth,
also Lotus, Lola and Mc Laren. It's great!
infos on: http://www.rosso-bianco.de
So you can make a trip around Europe, not only Austria and Switzerland :-)
Achim, Germany
1964 BJ8
From "James Sailer" <sailer at srv.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 08:01:25 -0600
Subject: Re: Frogeye Buying Guide
A recent thread inquired about a frogeye buying guide. There was one in the
January 2000 Thoroughbred & Classic Cars Magazine.
Jim Sailer 66 BJ8
93 Land Rover D110
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 10:05:39 EDT
Subject: Re: Waves - Harley Folks
Gary,
I agreed. I relate well with the Harley guys and gals when in my Healey.
They frequently wave and when you pull into a funky lunch or dinner spot with
Harleys parked in front, they always show interest in you car, especially if
your with a Healey group.
Maybe the two groups have a close bond because we both need to time our
arrival at STOP lights to avoid a complete stop. In a Harley riders case,
its so they don't have to put their foot down. In a Healey drivers case, it
so we don't have to shift into that non synchronized first gear!
John
100-Six Erika the Red
From "Richard E. Pratt" <prattri at email.msn.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 10:08:21 -0400
Subject: RE: SV: Caliper Bridge Bolts
IMHO, as an engineer, I feel very strong that the best approach is the
follow the manufactures recommendations when they relate to the safety of
the car. I have always held that when you change the recommendations you now
have a newly design system and have to understand that there are significant
risk with this approach. I have below developed an scenario of what I
believe the issue we are dealing with for the List. I do not claim I am
completely correct in this analysis but wish to provide some feel as to the
complexity of this issue.
The critical condition is the situation of having to maker a panic stop
where you are developing the maximum hydraulic pressure in the brake system.
I believe under this condition the force on the brake peddle could be as
high as 250 Lbs. There appears to be a 7:1 ratio between the peddle and the
master cylinder shaft location. This causes a force of approximately 1750
lbs at the master cylinder shaft. Since the cylinder is 7/8", a hydraulic
force of 2000psi is developed in the brake system. The wheel cylinder is
2.125 dia, the clamping force on the rotor is 4,250 Lbs. The design of the
caliper is such that the force is applied approximately 1-1/2 outside of the
bolt circle resulting in a lever ratio of 4:1. The bolts( qty 4) are
subjected to 17000Lbs of force. If it is assumed each bolt is evenly
loaded-which is not the case, the stress on the bolt would be approximately
11,300 PSI. Recognizing the pre load on the bolt has to be higher than the
maximum load it has to withstand or the two halves of the caliper will move
apart and possibly leak. One of the critical item is knowing the proper
torque value of the bolts. This value is what the manufacture requires and
not a generic value from some table. If the working stress in the bolt is
35000psi the bolt will be approximately .009" longer when tight than when
loose. This stress value is 3 times larges than the estimated working load
calculated above. I feel the problem with the approach of having
inexperienced people doing caliper rebuilding is the lack of proper tools,
information and Magniflux or Ultrasonic testing. Again, I wish only to
caution people to consider the risk they are taking when not following
recommendations of the manufacture when it comes to the safety of the car.
Hope this helps.
Richard Pratt
65 BJ8
Cincinnati, OH
Richard
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Karlsson Magnus
> Sent: Monday, June 05, 2000 10:33 PM
> To: Healey Lista
> Subject: SV: SV: Caliper Bridge Bolts
>
>
>
> Ed
>
> If you think it´s better to run 35 years old calipers unrestored,
> fine by me.
>
> I´m not claiming to be THE most renowned expert. In my experience
> it is pretty safe since I´ve done it many times as long as the
> bolts seem to be ok and I haven´t had a failure yet. I have
> always been wondering about why it is supposed to be so dangerous
> to split the calipers especially considering the age of the
> square o-rings in them. I feel a lot safer when these are
> replaced. It´s also strange that Girling wont supply these o
> rings nor the bolts.
>
> I suspect that the recommendations of the companies have to do
> with legal responsibilities on their part for eventual failures.
>
> Magnus Karlsson
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <JustBrits@aol.com>
> To: <healey@telia.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 4:06 AM
> Subject: Re: SV: Caliper Bridge Bolts
>
>
> > In a message dated 06/05/2000 8:59:04 PM Central Daylight Time,
> > healey@telia.com writes:
> >
> > <<
> > It´s pretty safe to reuse the bolts as long as they have not been over
> > torqued.>>
> >
> > Magnus: That is the single MOST stupid thing I have EVER read.
> Just how do
> > you know?? And since Lucas/Girling and GMC and FMC all say not
> to re-use
> > bolts; how have you :instantly" become THE most renowned expert???
> >
> > <<By the way I think its much safer to split these old
> calipers in order to
> > renew the square cut o-ring than not doing it. >>
> >
> > And that is a "damned if you do and damned if you don't" kind
> of phrase, huh??
> >
> > Ed
> >
> > PS: Oh yeah, add SAE to the above list.
>
>
From "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec at globalserve.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 10:49:51 -0400
Subject: Re: waving and German cars
In the beginning porche was a VW 914.
Now, the big motor 4WD Audi A4 I just drove is really an F-18. I
swear its fly-by-wire. Everything is sooo perfect! - you can't
even screw up the clutch engagement. The road feel is so smoothed
out and the windshield becomes a virtual reality computer game.
The engineering is moonshot awesome ala the NSX, Corvette C6, and
maybe even the miata. Ergo, the A4 feels like its on German train
tracks even in the wet - must deadly for the novice and IMHO not
much fun for the non novice
But I guess I'm a just an old dinosaur and more relish the cars
and m/c's that talk back to you and once in a while give you a
good kick in the ass, ala the Corvette ZR1, the CBX and all LBC's
.
Mike L.
60A,67E,59Bug
----- Original Message -----
From: Colin O'Brien <cob@atg.com.au>
To: bjcap <bjcap@frontiernet.net>; Healey List
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: June 6, 2000 9:58 PM
Subject: Re: waving and German cars
>
> Hi everyone,
>
> I enjoy this list immensely, especially when we get a thread
going like this
> one (it gives an insight into the personalities hidden behind
the emails!).
>
> The problem is I also own a Porsche so I'm feeling a bit
vulnerable!! Just
> remember that Porsches probably are the most successful sports
car ever,
> both on the track and in rally's (that's going to get an
argument going!!).
>
> My Healey is the one that I drive at every opportunity and the
last car I'd
> sell, except for the utility family car that we all have to
have, but my
> Porsche gives me faultless supercar performance, every time, any
weather,
> without fail. Please only give Porsche owners a hard time if
they don't
> own Healeys!
>
> Regards and a wave (!) to all,
>
> Colin O'Brien
> BJ8 ph1
> BN7 MK1 (hopefully as I'm about to buy, ship and restore it!)
> Range Rover 1980
> Porsche 993 Targa
> Mercedes A190
>
> --
>
>
> > From: "bjcap" <bjcap@frontiernet.net>
> > Reply-To: "bjcap" <bjcap@frontiernet.net>
> > Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 21:15:15 -0400
> > To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Subject: waving and german cars
> >
> >
> > I currently am working on three german cars in my shop,
besides my british
> > mainstays of healeys and jags .
> > if any of you have ever had the pleasure to work on any of
these fine
> > automobiles let alone drive certain models you would
appreciate each
> > manufacturers idealolgy of building cars. To say to each his
own is your
> > loss,not mine.
> >
> > Carroll Phillips Top Down Restorations
> >
> > BTW it's PORSCHE with an ' S '
> >
>
>
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 10:58:58 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Square cut o-rings
They do but why not get them from Mike Salter - he's always ready to give us
all so much good and free advice and guidance.
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
> Has Pegasus an e-mail or contact address?
>
> << Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 00:36:52 -0400 (EDT)
> << dickb@cheerful.com
> << Subject: Re: SV: SV: Caliper Bridge Bolts
>
> << Pegasus - in Milwaukee
>
>
> ---- you wrote:
> >
> >Where can you get the "square cut o-rings" ?
> >Mark Fawcett>>
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From type79 at ix.netcom.com
Date: Wed, 07 Jun 2000 10:58:00 -0400
Subject: Re: waving and German cars
It was?!
So much for the beetle.
jjf
Michael Lupynec wrote:
> In the beginning porche was a VW 914.
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Wed, 07 Jun 2000 07:59:26 -0700
Subject: Re: Top Frame Problem
Hi Richard,
I think I'm having the same problem (including PO installing the top too
tight) and will investigate your solution. When you say you "marked the
bow, removed and cut back to get the proper fit with the windshield" did
you cut the front edge of the bow (or header rail in the Moss catalog)
or the rearward edge where it attaches to the frame and meets with the
side rails.
Many thanks,
John Loftus
"Richard E. Pratt" wrote:
>
> John,
> What I have done on my BJ8 was to remove the tacks holding the top to the
> front bow and at each window. I found that after adjusting the hold down
> clamps, I was able to get the frame to align properly at the windows. I
> noted the bow was now hanging over the windshield by 1/2 inch. I marked the
> bow, removed and cut back to get the proper fit with the windshield. I than
> pulled the top back over the bow, making sure I could put the top up without
> to much pulling on the frame. The original fold of the top over the bow was
> now about 1/2" shorter. Since the top was new(installed by PO), I was able
> to clean up the top at the edge of the bow so that it looked OK. You might
> find that your top would not clean up and show a dirt or fade line along the
> edge of the bow. I suspect the original problem is that the car frame has
> sagged down causing the top frame to become too long. Hope this helps. If I
> have not been clear, please contact me. I would be happy to clarify.
> Richard
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> > [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of John Loftus
> > Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 4:28 PM
> > To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
> > Subject: Top Frame Problem
> >
> >
> >
> > Hi all,
> >
> > Having a problem with the convertible top frame.
> >
> > The wood strip which is positioned along the top edge of the roll up
> > window does not line up with the wood strip along the rear edge of the
> > window. It is about 1" too low. This occurs on both sides of the car.
> >
> > The top frame appears to be in good shape otherwise and I can't figure
> > out how to make any adjustments to alleviate the problem. Even if I
> > physically try to push the strip into position, it will not budge.
> >
> > This does not appear to be a RTA repair or RTM repair <G> so any help is
> > appreciated.
> >
> >
> > Cheers,
> > John Loftus
> > BJ7
> >
From "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec at globalserve.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 11:26:12 -0400
Subject: Re: SV: Caliper Bridge Bolts
Richard, you didn't say if you were a mechanical engineer, with an
automotive background specializing in brakes or hydraulics.
Heck I'm only a dumb engineer, but pls skip the calculations (if
you are not using integration they're useless), check the spelling
of pedal vs peddle (credibility man, that's everything especially
in court) and let's just ask Karlsson to put 250 lbs pressure on
his brake pedal at least 100 times. Then Karlsson can get a
clipboard out and record if he has a leak. He could also check to
see if the brake pedal develops a non-elastic deformation.
There are a number of listers who can contribute to this test.
Would also be nice to have a control group of those who have not
unbolted their caliper halves and see if their square gaskets
spring a leak.
Can't blame the poor original Brit engineers who reported to
Engineering Managers and Managing Directors who always had 'LORD'
for a first name.
Mike L.
60A,67E,59Bug
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard E. Pratt <prattri@email.msn.com>
To: Karlsson Magnus <healey@telia.com>; Healey Lista
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: June 7, 2000 10:08 AM
Subject: RE: SV: Caliper Bridge Bolts
IMHO, as an engineer, I feel very strong that the best approach is
the
follow the manufactures recommendations when they relate to the
safety of
the car. I have always held that when you change the
recommendations you now
have a newly design system and have to understand that there are
significant
risk with this approach. I have below developed an scenario of
what I
believe the issue we are dealing with for the List. I do not claim
I am
completely correct in this analysis but wish to provide some feel
as to the
complexity of this issue.
The critical condition is the situation of having to maker a
panic stop
where you are developing the maximum hydraulic pressure in the
brake system.
I believe under this condition the force on the brake peddle could
be as
high as 250 Lbs. There appears to be a 7:1 ratio between the
peddle and the
master cylinder shaft location. This causes a force of
approximately 1750
lbs at the master cylinder shaft. Since the cylinder is 7/8", a
hydraulic
force of 2000psi is developed in the brake system. The wheel
cylinder is
2.125 dia, the clamping force on the rotor is 4,250 Lbs. The
design of the
caliper is such that the force is applied approximately 1-1/2
outside of the
bolt circle resulting in a lever ratio of 4:1. The bolts( qty 4)
are
subjected to 17000Lbs of force. If it is assumed each bolt is
evenly
loaded-which is not the case, the stress on the bolt would be
approximately
11,300 PSI. Recognizing the pre load on the bolt has to be higher
than the
maximum load it has to withstand or the two halves of the caliper
will move
apart and possibly leak. One of the critical item is knowing the
proper
torque value of the bolts. This value is what the manufacture
requires and
not a generic value from some table. If the working stress in the
bolt is
35000psi the bolt will be approximately .009" longer when tight
than when
loose. This stress value is 3 times larges than the estimated
working load
calculated above. I feel the problem with the approach of having
inexperienced people doing caliper rebuilding is the lack of
proper tools,
information and Magniflux or Ultrasonic testing. Again, I wish
only to
caution people to consider the risk they are taking when not
following
recommendations of the manufacture when it comes to the safety of
the car.
Hope this helps.
Richard Pratt
65 BJ8
Cincinnati, OH
Richard
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Karlsson
Magnus
> Sent: Monday, June 05, 2000 10:33 PM
> To: Healey Lista
> Subject: SV: SV: Caliper Bridge Bolts
>
>
>
> Ed
>
> If you think it´s better to run 35 years old calipers
unrestored,
> fine by me.
>
> I´m not claiming to be THE most renowned expert. In my
experience
> it is pretty safe since I´ve done it many times as long as the
> bolts seem to be ok and I haven´t had a failure yet. I have
> always been wondering about why it is supposed to be so
dangerous
> to split the calipers especially considering the age of the
> square o-rings in them. I feel a lot safer when these are
> replaced. It´s also strange that Girling wont supply these o
> rings nor the bolts.
>
> I suspect that the recommendations of the companies have to do
> with legal responsibilities on their part for eventual failures.
>
> Magnus Karlsson
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <JustBrits@aol.com>
> To: <healey@telia.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 4:06 AM
> Subject: Re: SV: Caliper Bridge Bolts
>
>
> > In a message dated 06/05/2000 8:59:04 PM Central Daylight
Time,
> > healey@telia.com writes:
> >
> > <<
> > It´s pretty safe to reuse the bolts as long as they have not
been over
> > torqued.>>
> >
> > Magnus: That is the single MOST stupid thing I have EVER
read.
> Just how do
> > you know?? And since Lucas/Girling and GMC and FMC all say
not
> to re-use
> > bolts; how have you :instantly" become THE most renowned
expert???
> >
> > <<By the way I think its much safer to split these old
> calipers in order to
> > renew the square cut o-ring than not doing it. >>
> >
> > And that is a "damned if you do and damned if you don't" kind
> of phrase, huh??
> >
> > Ed
> >
> > PS: Oh yeah, add SAE to the above list.
>
>
From cstinehelfer at bajamarine.com
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 11:15:39 -0400
Subject: Non-wave related, please delete if Healey oriented material is
offensive.
Sorry to bomb the Wave List with this, but has anyone ever found a suitable
substitute for the master cylinder on a 100-4? Somewhere in car land there
should be a easily adaptable and more readily available component that can
be swapped on.................any experience out there?
Chris
'54 #154411
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 11:16:24 EDT
Subject: Re: Let the flames begin!
In a message dated 6/7/00 12:02:32 AM, bn1@flashcom.net writes:
<< On my moderated list, such would have been rejected back to the sender.
Of course I want to read everything about Healeys. However, I really
don't give a s**t about who waves to who! >>
Sorry -- for some of us, reminiscing is one of the dimensions of enjoying our
old cars -- they're much more than just something in the garage that we are
challenged to keep running. That thread started with someone chatting about
"the old days" when sports cars were still being sold and enjoyed. And for me
personally, a little idle good-humored banter is a friendly aspect of this
list.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec at globalserve.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 11:39:24 -0400
Subject: Re: waving and German cars
That's even worse.
Mike L.
----- Original Message -----
From: <type79@ix.netcom.com>
Cc: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: June 7, 2000 10:58 AM
Subject: Re: waving and German cars
>
> It was?!
>
> So much for the beetle.
>
> jjf
>
> Michael Lupynec wrote:
>
> > In the beginning porche was a VW 914.
>
>
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 08:24:19 -0700
Subject: Re: Running Temps
"60PSI and then dropping to 40PSI under normal load and 20 idling" that is
exactly what mine is, right or wrong...Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Schauss" <schauss@worldnet.att.net>
To: "TC" <tm-c@gmx.net>; "Healey Chat" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Healey
List" <majordomo@autox.team.net>; <healeys-owner@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 7:38 PM
Subject: Re: Running Temps
For oil pressure, 20# idle and 40# at 3000 rpm on a fully warmed up
engine is what mine ran before I had it rebuilt. I was told that it was
marginal but I drove it like that for 24k miles before the number 3
piston broke a ring and forced the rebuild.
When Bruce Phillips took the engine apart, the only other major
problem that he found was a badly worn camshaft which was,
as far as I know, unrelated on the "marginal" oil pressure.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1963 BJ7
1980 MGB
----- Original Message -----
From: TC <tm-c@gmx.net>
To: Healey Chat <healeys@autox.team.net>; Healey List
<majordomo@autox.team.net>; <healeys-owner@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 05, 2000 3:44 PM
Subject: Running Temps
Hi listers
what is the ideal range of temperatures for a BJ8 as far as water and
oil temp is concerned?
When is the engine considered warm and at running temperature?
Another thing.
When the engine is hot (comming back from a long drive on the highway)
the oil pressure while idling more or less disappears. Under load the
pressure is fine: when cold up to 60PSI and then dropping to 40PSI under
normal load and 20 idling.
Is this something to worry about or nothing to worry about?
Cheers
Tim
BJ8´67
From "Richard E. Pratt" <prattri at email.msn.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 11:29:38 -0400
Subject: RE: Top Frame Problem
John,
I cut back the front edge of the Bow and hand plained to get the original
cross-section contour of the bow.
Richard
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of John Loftus
> Sent: Wednesday, June 07, 2000 10:59 AM
> To: Richard E. Pratt; 'healeys@autox.team.net'
> Subject: Re: Top Frame Problem
>
>
>
> Hi Richard,
>
> I think I'm having the same problem (including PO installing the top too
> tight) and will investigate your solution. When you say you "marked the
> bow, removed and cut back to get the proper fit with the windshield" did
> you cut the front edge of the bow (or header rail in the Moss catalog)
> or the rearward edge where it attaches to the frame and meets with the
> side rails.
>
> Many thanks,
> John Loftus
>
>
> "Richard E. Pratt" wrote:
> >
> > John,
> > What I have done on my BJ8 was to remove the tacks holding the
> top to the
> > front bow and at each window. I found that after adjusting the
> hold down
> > clamps, I was able to get the frame to align properly at the windows. I
> > noted the bow was now hanging over the windshield by 1/2 inch.
> I marked the
> > bow, removed and cut back to get the proper fit with the
> windshield. I than
> > pulled the top back over the bow, making sure I could put the
> top up without
> > to much pulling on the frame. The original fold of the top over
> the bow was
> > now about 1/2" shorter. Since the top was new(installed by PO),
> I was able
> > to clean up the top at the edge of the bow so that it looked
> OK. You might
> > find that your top would not clean up and show a dirt or fade
> line along the
> > edge of the bow. I suspect the original problem is that the car
> frame has
> > sagged down causing the top frame to become too long. Hope this
> helps. If I
> > have not been clear, please contact me. I would be happy to clarify.
> > Richard
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> > > [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of John Loftus
> > > Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 4:28 PM
> > > To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
> > > Subject: Top Frame Problem
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Hi all,
> > >
> > > Having a problem with the convertible top frame.
> > >
> > > The wood strip which is positioned along the top edge of the roll up
> > > window does not line up with the wood strip along the rear edge of the
> > > window. It is about 1" too low. This occurs on both sides of the car.
> > >
> > > The top frame appears to be in good shape otherwise and I can't figure
> > > out how to make any adjustments to alleviate the problem. Even if I
> > > physically try to push the strip into position, it will not budge.
> > >
> > > This does not appear to be a RTA repair or RTM repair <G> so
> any help is
> > > appreciated.
> > >
> > >
> > > Cheers,
> > > John Loftus
> > > BJ7
> > >
>
From "S.HUTCHINGS" <hutching at myna.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 11:47:38 -0400
Subject: Re; Rear hub nuts
Chris, I had the same problem last year, and I even borrowed a special
tool, but that proved to be too worn to grip sufficiently. In the end, I
bought a big crescent (adjustable) wrench, and put it across the nut at an
angle ( the studs get in the way) Then I put a bar through the opening in
the wrench and cranked it.....success. Mind you, this is rather a gross and
desperate method, and the nuts had to be replaced, but the damn thing came
off. If you're resigned to replacing the nuts, anyway, they can also be
drifted off. Remember that one is a left hand thread!
Stephen ( Trying to use the right tool for the job, but...) BJ8
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 09:53:19 -0600
Subject: Re: Let the flames begin!
I'm siding with editorgary.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <bn1@flashcom.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 07, 2000 9:16 AM
Subject: Re: Let the flames begin!
>
>
> In a message dated 6/7/00 12:02:32 AM, bn1@flashcom.net writes:
>
> << On my moderated list, such would have been rejected back to the sender.
>
> Of course I want to read everything about Healeys. However, I really
> don't give a s**t about who waves to who! >>
>
> Sorry -- for some of us, reminiscing is one of the dimensions of enjoying
our
> old cars -- they're much more than just something in the garage that we
are
> challenged to keep running. That thread started with someone chatting
about
> "the old days" when sports cars were still being sold and enjoyed. And for
me
> personally, a little idle good-humored banter is a friendly aspect of this
> list.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
>
From "Browning David (TVCS)" <BrowningD at tce.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 10:54:29 -0500
Subject: RE: waving and German cars
Boy this is hitting really close to home.
My first car was a 944, which I still have. I've had the BN1 for a few
years. Now I have an A4. As far as the clutch engagement goes, though, I'm
having problems for some reason getting used to it. Not a problem in any of
the other cars. Maybe you can give me your secret. The A4 it TOO quiet.
I also just got a fixer-up 83 Audi Quattro coupe (TQC or ur-quattro to those
who are familiar.) I think I've got the major rallying marks covered up
through the 80's.
David B.
'00 A4
'89 944
'86 Audi 4000 (going to my dad once I get the URQ running)
'83 Audi Quattro
'55 BN1
(Too many cars, I know.)
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Lupynec [mailto:mlupynec@globalserve.net]
Sent: Wednesday, June 07, 2000 9:50 AM
To: healeys
Subject: Re: waving and German cars
In the beginning porche was a VW 914.
Now, the big motor 4WD Audi A4 I just drove is really an F-18. I
swear its fly-by-wire. Everything is sooo perfect! - you can't
even screw up the clutch engagement. The road feel is so smoothed
out and the windshield becomes a virtual reality computer game.
The engineering is moonshot awesome ala the NSX, Corvette C6, and
maybe even the miata. Ergo, the A4 feels like its on German train
tracks even in the wet - must deadly for the novice and IMHO not
much fun for the non novice
But I guess I'm a just an old dinosaur and more relish the cars
and m/c's that talk back to you and once in a while give you a
good kick in the ass, ala the Corvette ZR1, the CBX and all LBC's
.
Mike L.
60A,67E,59Bug
----- Original Message -----
From: Colin O'Brien <cob@atg.com.au>
To: bjcap <bjcap@frontiernet.net>; Healey List
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: June 6, 2000 9:58 PM
Subject: Re: waving and German cars
>
> Hi everyone,
>
> I enjoy this list immensely, especially when we get a thread
going like this
> one (it gives an insight into the personalities hidden behind
the emails!).
>
> The problem is I also own a Porsche so I'm feeling a bit
vulnerable!! Just
> remember that Porsches probably are the most successful sports
car ever,
> both on the track and in rally's (that's going to get an
argument going!!).
>
> My Healey is the one that I drive at every opportunity and the
last car I'd
> sell, except for the utility family car that we all have to
have, but my
> Porsche gives me faultless supercar performance, every time, any
weather,
> without fail. Please only give Porsche owners a hard time if
they don't
> own Healeys!
>
> Regards and a wave (!) to all,
>
> Colin O'Brien
> BJ8 ph1
> BN7 MK1 (hopefully as I'm about to buy, ship and restore it!)
> Range Rover 1980
> Porsche 993 Targa
> Mercedes A190
>
> --
>
>
> > From: "bjcap" <bjcap@frontiernet.net>
> > Reply-To: "bjcap" <bjcap@frontiernet.net>
> > Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 21:15:15 -0400
> > To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Subject: waving and german cars
> >
> >
> > I currently am working on three german cars in my shop,
besides my british
> > mainstays of healeys and jags .
> > if any of you have ever had the pleasure to work on any of
these fine
> > automobiles let alone drive certain models you would
appreciate each
> > manufacturers idealolgy of building cars. To say to each his
own is your
> > loss,not mine.
> >
> > Carroll Phillips Top Down Restorations
> >
> > BTW it's PORSCHE with an ' S '
> >
>
>
From "Richard E. Pratt" <prattri at email.msn.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 11:57:12 -0400
Subject: RE: SV: Caliper Bridge Bolts
Mike,
My point is that the test you suggest and no doubt other test were done by
the manufacture. The results of those test have resulted in the
recommendations made by the manufacture. To me, it just makes good sense to
follow them.
Richard
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Michael Lupynec
> Sent: Wednesday, June 07, 2000 11:26 AM
> To: healeys
> Subject: Re: SV: Caliper Bridge Bolts
>
>
>
> Richard, you didn't say if you were a mechanical engineer, with an
> automotive background specializing in brakes or hydraulics.
>
> Heck I'm only a dumb engineer, but pls skip the calculations (if
> you are not using integration they're useless), check the spelling
> of pedal vs peddle (credibility man, that's everything especially
> in court) and let's just ask Karlsson to put 250 lbs pressure on
> his brake pedal at least 100 times. Then Karlsson can get a
> clipboard out and record if he has a leak. He could also check to
> see if the brake pedal develops a non-elastic deformation.
>
> There are a number of listers who can contribute to this test.
> Would also be nice to have a control group of those who have not
> unbolted their caliper halves and see if their square gaskets
> spring a leak.
>
> Can't blame the poor original Brit engineers who reported to
> Engineering Managers and Managing Directors who always had 'LORD'
> for a first name.
>
> Mike L.
> 60A,67E,59Bug
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Richard E. Pratt <prattri@email.msn.com>
> To: Karlsson Magnus <healey@telia.com>; Healey Lista
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: June 7, 2000 10:08 AM
> Subject: RE: SV: Caliper Bridge Bolts
>
>
>
> IMHO, as an engineer, I feel very strong that the best approach is
> the
> follow the manufactures recommendations when they relate to the
> safety of
> the car. I have always held that when you change the
> recommendations you now
> have a newly design system and have to understand that there are
> significant
> risk with this approach. I have below developed an scenario of
> what I
> believe the issue we are dealing with for the List. I do not claim
> I am
> completely correct in this analysis but wish to provide some feel
> as to the
> complexity of this issue.
> The critical condition is the situation of having to maker a
> panic stop
> where you are developing the maximum hydraulic pressure in the
> brake system.
> I believe under this condition the force on the brake peddle could
> be as
> high as 250 Lbs. There appears to be a 7:1 ratio between the
> peddle and the
> master cylinder shaft location. This causes a force of
> approximately 1750
> lbs at the master cylinder shaft. Since the cylinder is 7/8", a
> hydraulic
> force of 2000psi is developed in the brake system. The wheel
> cylinder is
> 2.125 dia, the clamping force on the rotor is 4,250 Lbs. The
> design of the
> caliper is such that the force is applied approximately 1-1/2
> outside of the
> bolt circle resulting in a lever ratio of 4:1. The bolts( qty 4)
> are
> subjected to 17000Lbs of force. If it is assumed each bolt is
> evenly
> loaded-which is not the case, the stress on the bolt would be
> approximately
> 11,300 PSI. Recognizing the pre load on the bolt has to be higher
> than the
> maximum load it has to withstand or the two halves of the caliper
> will move
> apart and possibly leak. One of the critical item is knowing the
> proper
> torque value of the bolts. This value is what the manufacture
> requires and
> not a generic value from some table. If the working stress in the
> bolt is
> 35000psi the bolt will be approximately .009" longer when tight
> than when
> loose. This stress value is 3 times larges than the estimated
> working load
> calculated above. I feel the problem with the approach of having
> inexperienced people doing caliper rebuilding is the lack of
> proper tools,
> information and Magniflux or Ultrasonic testing. Again, I wish
> only to
> caution people to consider the risk they are taking when not
> following
> recommendations of the manufacture when it comes to the safety of
> the car.
> Hope this helps.
> Richard Pratt
> 65 BJ8
> Cincinnati, OH
> Richard
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> > [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Karlsson
> Magnus
> > Sent: Monday, June 05, 2000 10:33 PM
> > To: Healey Lista
> > Subject: SV: SV: Caliper Bridge Bolts
> >
> >
> >
> > Ed
> >
> > If you think it´s better to run 35 years old calipers
> unrestored,
> > fine by me.
> >
> > I´m not claiming to be THE most renowned expert. In my
> experience
> > it is pretty safe since I´ve done it many times as long as the
> > bolts seem to be ok and I haven´t had a failure yet. I have
> > always been wondering about why it is supposed to be so
> dangerous
> > to split the calipers especially considering the age of the
> > square o-rings in them. I feel a lot safer when these are
> > replaced. It´s also strange that Girling wont supply these o
> > rings nor the bolts.
> >
> > I suspect that the recommendations of the companies have to do
> > with legal responsibilities on their part for eventual failures.
> >
> > Magnus Karlsson
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <JustBrits@aol.com>
> > To: <healey@telia.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 4:06 AM
> > Subject: Re: SV: Caliper Bridge Bolts
> >
> >
> > > In a message dated 06/05/2000 8:59:04 PM Central Daylight
> Time,
> > > healey@telia.com writes:
> > >
> > > <<
> > > It´s pretty safe to reuse the bolts as long as they have not
> been over
> > > torqued.>>
> > >
> > > Magnus: That is the single MOST stupid thing I have EVER
> read.
> > Just how do
> > > you know?? And since Lucas/Girling and GMC and FMC all say
> not
> > to re-use
> > > bolts; how have you :instantly" become THE most renowned
> expert???
> > >
> > > <<By the way I think its much safer to split these old
> > calipers in order to
> > > renew the square cut o-ring than not doing it. >>
> > >
> > > And that is a "damned if you do and damned if you don't" kind
> > of phrase, huh??
> > >
> > > Ed
> > >
> > > PS: Oh yeah, add SAE to the above list.
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 11:02:11 -0500
Subject: RE: Rear hub nut
Chris,
I made a simple tool a while back by cutting a "C" shape in a flat piece of
bar stock. Worked very well and you are welcome to borrow mine if you need
to.
Regards,
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: Csooch1@aol.com [mailto:Csooch1@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, June 07, 2000 5:41 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Rear hub nut
Help! Does anyone have a trick way to get the 8-sided hub nuts off of the
rear axle(BJ8) without the factory tool? What size socket will work best or
am I going to have to make another tool? The nuts measure 2 3/16 from flat
to flat, but a standard 12 point socket that size will not work...any
suggestions?
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 12:26:50 EDT
Subject: Re: Waving & Flashing
In a message dated 6/7/00 9:43:27 AM Eastern Daylight Time, ccruz@tribune.com
writes:
<< Where can I get one of those
Gucci attaché case tool kits >>
I don't know how this Gucci Luggage stuff came up!! So declasse.
Myself? I have a Louis Vuitone set fitted to my trunk, er...boot.
Michael
From TDTR3 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 12:48:07 EDT
Subject: Re: Square cut o-rings
In a message dated 6/7/2000 4:53:53 AM, rr_moss@hotmail.com writes:
<< Has Pegasus an e-mail or contact address? >>
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/
Here is the url for Pegasus Racing Web Page.
Good luck and happy Healeying
Ken
BN4
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 12:57:13 EDT
Subject: Re: Let the flames begin! (not a flame)
In a message dated 6/6/00 11:48:17 PM, bn1@flashcom.net writes:
<< IMHO the Healey list has degenerated significantly. Today there were
at least 30 emails that had nothing to do with helping an owner with
his car, answering a question or supplying info about an event.
On my moderated list, such would have been rejected back to the sender.
Of course I want to read everything about Healeys. However, I really
don't give a s**t about who waves to who! >>
This list is not so bad as others, and if you read the "rules" of useing this
list you will find that all of this stuff about waving or speeding in a
Healey all falls neatly into this description from the home page:
"The Healey mailing lists are interactive e-mail forums with members all over
the world. They are free, and anyone can post a question, tech tip,
event, interesting story, personal classified ad (Commercial postings are
frowned upon.), or other Healey related discussion."
Rick
San Diego
From BN4L at aol.com
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 12:57:55 EDT
Subject: Re: Let the flames begin!
In a message dated 6/6/2000 11:57:11 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
bn1@flashcom.net writes:
<< However, I really
don't give a s**t about who waves to who! >>
Correct grammar is "to whom"
Art Hill
Escondido, CA
'58 100-6 BN4 A-H "Mille Miglia"
'66 TR6R Triumph Tiger
'96 R1100RT BMW
From cstinehelfer at bajamarine.com
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 13:25:28 -0400
Subject: Re: Non-wave related, please delete if Healey oriented material is
Thanks Ed! Just what I was hoping for!
Chris
Fiat 124 master cylinder from a 1970-80 models will work, it will also
allow you to put in a dual system. Check out the write up in Chatter (May
1995) pages 21 to 22, the article i "Them's the Brakes by Fred Crowley,
NTAHC.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
cstinehelfer@bajamarine.com wrote:
>
> Sorry to bomb the Wave List with this, but has anyone ever found a
suitable
> substitute for the master cylinder on a 100-4? Somewhere in car land
there
> should be a easily adaptable and more readily available component that
can
> be swapped on.................any experience out there?
>
> Chris
> '54 #154411
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 07 Jun 2000 11:32:22 -0500
Subject: Re: Waves?
Fellows
In the book "Donald Healey - My World of Cars" by Peter Garnier with Brian
Healey, Brian suggests Donald Healey's favourite British sportscar was the
Dolomite - the "overlooked" British sportscar. Wave to the Dolomite first
all others next <g>!
This aside we should extend a hand to all car enthusiasts, especially those
who toil to restore and maintain the great range of "sportscars" of the pre
80's.
And to those on this list who give freely of their advice and time.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
'65 BJ8
'89 4/4
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 12:55:01 -0500
Subject: Bucket Bolt Blindness
Hi folks,
I must be going blind...where in the BJ8 Parts Manuals does it show the
screws and special brass nuts that secure the headlight buckets to the
fender/shroud? The Mechanical Parts List shows the headlight assembly but
not the rest.
Specifically then, what type of screw is it that I need, pan head, hex head,
pozi, slotted, what length, etc.? Are there washers used, flat/lock?
Appreciate it if anyone can shed light on the subject.
Thanks,
Adnan
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Wed, 07 Jun 2000 10:57:37 -0700
Subject: Re: Top Frame Problem -solved
I discovered a solution to the Top Frame alignment problem in my
particular case. Here's what I did; perhaps it will help someone else.
The top frame is bolted to support towers on each side behind the rear
seat trim panels. Remove the panels and loosen the 3 attachment bolts.
Shimming between the support tower and inboard side of the bracket will
lift the top frame assembly in a way that aligns the top piece with the
side piece. Use wood or equiv. shims to see how much is needed to get
the correct alignment. In my case about .25" of shim was required. Then
replace the shims with a stack of washers of the correct height and
tighten everything back down. I may still need to adjust the front bow
but at least now the side parts are lining up.
Cheers and thanks for all the suggestions,
John Loftus
John Loftus wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> Having a problem with the convertible top frame.
>
> The wood strip which is positioned along the top edge of the roll up
> window does not line up with the wood strip along the rear edge of the
> window. It is about 1" too low. This occurs on both sides of the car.
>
> The top frame appears to be in good shape otherwise and I can't figure
> out how to make any adjustments to alleviate the problem. Even if I
> physically try to push the strip into position, it will not budge.
>
> This does not appear to be a RTA repair or RTM repair <G> so any help is
> appreciated.
>
> Cheers,
> John Loftus
> BJ7
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 13:09:46 -0500
Subject: BJ8 Windshield Centre Bracket
Hi,
As I started work on the front shroud, I found a hex-head bolt screwed
through a hole into a brass nut surrounded by the remains of what was once
rubber. I'm fairly certain this is the fastener pair used to secure the
windshield center bracket to the shroud.
I have a couple of questions regarding this arrangement - does the rubber
piece go in from the underside of the shroud, that is, do I have to put it
in place before the shroud gets mounted onto the car?
Secondly, is this thing available? Moss and VB catalogs illustrate the
part but don't show it as available.
Along these lines, are there other bits and pieces that I should install to
the shroud first?
Thanks again,
Adnan
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 12:13:19 -0600
Subject: radar guns vs LBC's esp. my 100
All right it's finally happened. There I was just cruising along a nice 2
lane road and up ahead, about 2000 yds, I see a police vehicle approaching,
I gaze at my speedo, recently recalibrated (10/99) it indicates 58MPH, I'm
in a 55 zone and I figure no self respecting cop is going to question 3MPH
over. Well, wrong. He says his radar indicated 68MPH. I know what I saw on
mine, I know I'm right, really. I ask when or if his gun was recently
calibrated, he falls mute.
My question to all you traffic experts is, Does the shape of the old flat
glass windshields, or the presence of extra chrome or other factors
relative to older cars have any known effect on radar readings? I'm aware of
radio/microwave/etc interference. Any studies on radio interference from old
ignition systems? No other traffic around, flat,level,clear conditions. My
theroy is perhaps his digit readout was not well visualized by the officer,
ie. not much difference between an electronic 6 or 5. Or he saw a RED sports
car and he suffers from assholeism.
Any viable court useable opinions are appreciated. PS rechecked the
calibration last night against one of our cities " Your Speed Is: " signs.
Spot on!
TIA Dave
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 12:15:22 -0600
Subject: Re: Waves?
Check that, I'm siding with editorgary and Ed too.
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
----- Original Message -----
From: "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver@sk.sympatico.ca>
To: "AUSTIN_HEALEY LIST" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 07, 2000 10:32 AM
Subject: Re: Waves?
>
>
> Fellows
>
> In the book "Donald Healey - My World of Cars" by Peter Garnier with Brian
> Healey, Brian suggests Donald Healey's favourite British sportscar was
the
> Dolomite - the "overlooked" British sportscar. Wave to the Dolomite first
> all others next <g>!
>
> This aside we should extend a hand to all car enthusiasts, especially
those
> who toil to restore and maintain the great range of "sportscars" of the
pre
> 80's.
> And to those on this list who give freely of their advice and time.
>
> Kind regards
> Ed
> Saskatoon
> '65 BJ8
> '89 4/4
>
>
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 13:44:02 -0400
Subject: Square Cut O-Rings
How in the heck can an "O" "Ring" be "square"????
If you are talking about a cross section view of the thing, I understand
where the terminology comes from. But "square" "O" "Ring" ???
From cstinehelfer at bajamarine.com
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 14:43:25 -0400
Subject: Re: radar guns vs LBC's esp. my 100
I have tried to fight this in my area before with mixed results; basically
I have learned 2 things.
1. Brothers of the law enforcement arena stick together - TIGHTLY! (Judges
included)
2. Most Judges can be convinced to make a notation in their rulings to have
no points assigned to your license. I don't know about everyone else, but
I don't worry about paying the fines; its the insurance rates that kill
you. And they are based on points against your license here in Ohio, ergo
offer that you were unintentionally speeding, apologize, explain that you
will gladly pay any fines incurred and ask politely that no points be
assigned. Works wonders.
Chris
'54 100
From "Scheuble, Fred J., HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 15:24:29 -0400
Subject: RE: radar guns vs LBC's esp. my 100
so did he ticket you?
-----Original Message-----
From: frogeye [mailto:frogeye@gateway.net]
Sent: Wednesday, June 07, 2000 2:13 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: radar guns vs LBC's esp. my 100
All right it's finally happened. There I was just cruising along a nice 2
lane road and up ahead, about 2000 yds, I see a police vehicle approaching,
I gaze at my speedo, recently recalibrated (10/99) it indicates 58MPH, I'm
in a 55 zone and I figure no self respecting cop is going to question 3MPH
over. Well, wrong. He says his radar indicated 68MPH. I know what I saw on
mine, I know I'm right, really. I ask when or if his gun was recently
calibrated, he falls mute.
My question to all you traffic experts is, Does the shape of the old flat
glass windshields, or the presence of extra chrome or other factors
relative to older cars have any known effect on radar readings? I'm aware of
radio/microwave/etc interference. Any studies on radio interference from old
ignition systems? No other traffic around, flat,level,clear conditions. My
theroy is perhaps his digit readout was not well visualized by the officer,
ie. not much difference between an electronic 6 or 5. Or he saw a RED sports
car and he suffers from assholeism.
Any viable court useable opinions are appreciated. PS rechecked the
calibration last night against one of our cities " Your Speed Is: " signs.
Spot on!
TIA Dave
From Susan and John Roper <vscjohn at huntnet.net>
Date: Wed, 07 Jun 2000 14:46:32 -0500
Subject: Re: Non-wave related, please delete if Healey oriented material is
offensive.
Chris, I have adapted a VW bug dual circuit cylinder. Wanted dual circuit
brakes on the race car and had real problems finding a dual circuit mc with
provisions for remote resevoir. Requires adapters for metric threads, and
revised ratio on the brake pedal. I also built my own bracket to hang the mc,
as the change of ratio requires a change in height of the mc relative to the
lever on the pedal. First time out I had not revised the ratio, which is about
3:1 stock, and had too much pedal pressure. I won't have a real read on the
change to 6:1 until I get my engine back together and try the latest setup.
John
cstinehelfer@bajamarine.com wrote:
> Sorry to bomb the Wave List with this, but has anyone ever found a suitable
> substitute for the master cylinder on a 100-4? Somewhere in car land there
> should be a easily adaptable and more readily available component that can
> be swapped on.................any experience out there?
>
> Chris
> '54 #154411
From "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec at globalserve.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 15:57:33 -0400
Subject: Re: radar guns vs LBC's esp. my 100
You are a victim of profiling?
Mike L.
60A,67E,59Bug
----- Original Message -----
From: frogeye <frogeye@gateway.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: June 7, 2000 2:13 PM
Subject: radar guns vs LBC's esp. my 100
>
> All right it's finally happened. There I was just cruising along
a nice 2
> lane road and up ahead, about 2000 yds, I see a police vehicle
approaching,
> I gaze at my speedo, recently recalibrated (10/99) it indicates
58MPH, I'm
> in a 55 zone and I figure no self respecting cop is going to
question 3MPH
> over. Well, wrong. He says his radar indicated 68MPH. I know
what I saw on
> mine, I know I'm right, really. I ask when or if his gun was
recently
> calibrated, he falls mute.
> My question to all you traffic experts is, Does the shape of
the old flat
> glass windshields, or the presence of extra chrome or other
factors
> relative to older cars have any known effect on radar readings?
I'm aware of
> radio/microwave/etc interference. Any studies on radio
interference from old
> ignition systems? No other traffic around, flat,level,clear
conditions. My
> theroy is perhaps his digit readout was not well visualized by
the officer,
> ie. not much difference between an electronic 6 or 5. Or he saw
a RED sports
> car and he suffers from assholeism.
> Any viable court useable opinions are appreciated. PS rechecked
the
> calibration last night against one of our cities " Your Speed
Is: " signs.
> Spot on!
>
> TIA Dave
>
>
>
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 07 Jun 2000 15:54:03 -0400
Subject: Re: Bloody Bad that Bucket Bolt Blindness
"Merchant, Adnan" wrote:
> Hi folks,
>
> I must be going blind...where in the BJ8 Parts Manuals does it show the
> screws and special brass nuts that secure the headlight buckets to the
> fender/shroud? The Mechanical Parts List shows the headlight assembly but
> not the rest.
>
> Specifically then, what type of screw is it that I need, pan head, hex head,
> pozi, slotted, what length, etc.? Are there washers used, flat/lock?
>
> Appreciate it if anyone can shed light on the subject.
>
> Thanks,
> Adnan
Hi Adnan,
BJ8 parts book page MN7.3. The head lamp mounting screws are shown in the text.
(Looks like an afterthought)
Screw RMZ0301 Qty 8
Washer LWZ203 Qty 8
Nut 1B2805 Qty8
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Wed, 07 Jun 2000 12:55:04 -0700
Subject: Re: radar guns vs LBC's esp. my 100
I had a similar situation when I lived in NY state. Was driving back from
getting my MR2 serviced and punched it to see if the vibration I was
feeling was cured. This just happened to be in a school zone about 500
yards from my house. Sure enough, coming the other way is a state trooper.
I watch him pull a U-turn and follow me into my driveway! Anyway, I explain
to him that the $$ wasn't the issue, but my insurer said ANY tickets and
they'd drop me. (And I had a clean record!)
So my day comes in court, I find the trooper and remind him of my
situation. We go before the judge and the officer says he'd like to change
the infraction to some bla bla code number. The judge looks up at me and
says "Broken speedometer cable?" with this strange look. I plead guilty,
pay the $80, no points, no insurance hassles.
As I'm paying the clerk, I overhear the next case, another broken
speedometer cable!! I guess the moral is, as long as they get their fines,
they can be somewhat flexible on the section of the traffic code they use
to enforce it.
bk
-----------------------------------------
At 11:43 AM 6/7/00 , cstinehelfer@bajamarine.com wrote:
>I have tried to fight this in my area before with mixed results; basically
>I have learned 2 things.
>
>1. Brothers of the law enforcement arena stick together - TIGHTLY! (Judges
>included)
>
>2. Most Judges can be convinced to make a notation in their rulings to have
>no points assigned to your license. I don't know about everyone else, but
>I don't worry about paying the fines; its the insurance rates that kill
>you. And they are based on points against your license here in Ohio, ergo
>offer that you were unintentionally speeding, apologize, explain that you
>will gladly pay any fines incurred and ask politely that no points be
>assigned. Works wonders.
>
>
>Chris
>'54 100
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 07 Jun 2000 16:04:06 -0400
Subject: Re: Top Frame Problem -solved
John Loftus wrote:
> I discovered a solution to the Top Frame alignment problem in my
> particular case. Here's what I did; perhaps it will help someone else.
>
> The top frame is bolted to support towers on each side behind the rear
> seat trim panels. Remove the panels and loosen the 3 attachment bolts.
> Shimming between the support tower and inboard side of the bracket will
> lift the top frame assembly in a way that aligns the top piece with the
> side piece. Use wood or equiv. shims to see how much is needed to get
> the correct alignment. In my case about .25" of shim was required. Then
> replace the shims with a stack of washers of the correct height and
> tighten everything back down. I may still need to adjust the front bow
> but at least now the side parts are lining up.
>
> Cheers and thanks for all the suggestions,
> John Loftus
>
> John Loftus wrote:
> >
> > Hi all,
> >
> > Having a problem with the convertible top frame.
> >
> > The wood strip which is positioned along the top edge of the roll up
> > window does not line up with the wood strip along the rear edge of the
> > window. It is about 1" too low. This occurs on both sides of the car.
> >
> > The top frame appears to be in good shape otherwise and I can't figure
> > out how to make any adjustments to alleviate the problem. Even if I
> > physically try to push the strip into position, it will not budge.
> >
> > This does not appear to be a RTA repair or RTM repair <G> so any help is
> > appreciated.
> >
> > Cheers,
> > John Loftus
> > BJ7
Hi John,
I always wondered what thoes little aluminium shims were for!!
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From "Ron Schonscheck" <schonny at y2consult.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 14:14:24 -0600
Subject: Re: Let the flames begin!
Art stop confusing everyone ;-)
----- Original Message -----
From: <BN4L@aol.com>
To: <bn1@flashcom.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 07, 2000 10:57 AM
Subject: Re: Let the flames begin!
>
> In a message dated 6/6/2000 11:57:11 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> bn1@flashcom.net writes:
>
> << However, I really
> don't give a s**t about who waves to who! >>
> Correct grammar is "to whom"
>
> Art Hill
> Escondido, CA
> '58 100-6 BN4 A-H "Mille Miglia"
> '66 TR6R Triumph Tiger
> '96 R1100RT BMW
>
From TC <tm-c at gmx.net>
Date: Wed, 07 Jun 2000 22:14:08 +0200
Subject: Running Temps
Thanks for all the input and confirmation that under normal conditions
my engines seems to be doing just fine.
I have just one more thing which I´m afraid did not come across so well
in my initial question.
When the engine is hot, after a good drive, the pressure at idle is the
normal 20 PSI but leaving it idling, say at a long red lightphase, the
needle goes down to almost zero. The revs stay just fine around 500.
Is this just a measuring fault / inability ?
Is the pressure really going down that far? If so, is this a problem? Do
I need to do something?
Oil temp: at what temperature is the engine considered to be at a good
running temperature?
Tim Campe
´67 BJ8
From "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec at globalserve.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 16:27:26 -0400
Subject: Re: SV: Caliper Bridge Bolts
I agree for the most part, but the manufacturers made
recommendations in the context of the car being junked after 10
years, in the context of replacing the whole caliper assy when
they were in inventory, and as someone mentioned before, in the
context of their legal beagle advice.
This IS NOT the current situation here, and I was half kidding
about the Karlsson test - Karlsson are u out there?
Mike L. (If the first automobiles built were without shop manuals,
I want one)
60A,67E,59Bug
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard E. Pratt <prattri@email.msn.com>
To: Michael Lupynec <mlupynec@globalserve.net>; healeys
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: June 7, 2000 11:57 AM
Subject: RE: SV: Caliper Bridge Bolts
> Mike,
> My point is that the test you suggest and no doubt other test
were done by
> the manufacture. The results of those test have resulted in the
> recommendations made by the manufacture. To me, it just makes
good sense to
> follow them.
> Richard
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> > [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Michael
Lupynec
> > Sent: Wednesday, June 07, 2000 11:26 AM
> > To: healeys
> > Subject: Re: SV: Caliper Bridge Bolts
> >
> >
> >
> > Richard, you didn't say if you were a mechanical engineer,
with an
> > automotive background specializing in brakes or hydraulics.
> >
> > Heck I'm only a dumb engineer, but pls skip the calculations
(if
> > you are not using integration they're useless), check the
spelling
> > of pedal vs peddle (credibility man, that's everything
especially
> > in court) and let's just ask Karlsson to put 250 lbs pressure
on
> > his brake pedal at least 100 times. Then Karlsson can get a
> > clipboard out and record if he has a leak. He could also check
to
> > see if the brake pedal develops a non-elastic deformation.
> >
> > There are a number of listers who can contribute to this test.
> > Would also be nice to have a control group of those who have
not
> > unbolted their caliper halves and see if their square gaskets
> > spring a leak.
> >
> > Can't blame the poor original Brit engineers who reported to
> > Engineering Managers and Managing Directors who always had
'LORD'
> > for a first name.
> >
> > Mike L.
> > 60A,67E,59Bug
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Richard E. Pratt <prattri@email.msn.com>
> > To: Karlsson Magnus <healey@telia.com>; Healey Lista
> > <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: June 7, 2000 10:08 AM
> > Subject: RE: SV: Caliper Bridge Bolts
> >
> >
> >
> > IMHO, as an engineer, I feel very strong that the best
approach is
> > the
> > follow the manufactures recommendations when they relate to
the
> > safety of
> > the car. I have always held that when you change the
> > recommendations you now
> > have a newly design system and have to understand that there
are
> > significant
> > risk with this approach. I have below developed an scenario of
> > what I
> > believe the issue we are dealing with for the List. I do not
claim
> > I am
> > completely correct in this analysis but wish to provide some
feel
> > as to the
> > complexity of this issue.
> > The critical condition is the situation of having to maker a
> > panic stop
> > where you are developing the maximum hydraulic pressure in the
> > brake system.
> > I believe under this condition the force on the brake peddle
could
> > be as
> > high as 250 Lbs. There appears to be a 7:1 ratio between the
> > peddle and the
> > master cylinder shaft location. This causes a force of
> > approximately 1750
> > lbs at the master cylinder shaft. Since the cylinder is 7/8",
a
> > hydraulic
> > force of 2000psi is developed in the brake system. The wheel
> > cylinder is
> > 2.125 dia, the clamping force on the rotor is 4,250 Lbs. The
> > design of the
> > caliper is such that the force is applied approximately 1-1/2
> > outside of the
> > bolt circle resulting in a lever ratio of 4:1. The bolts( qty
4)
> > are
> > subjected to 17000Lbs of force. If it is assumed each bolt is
> > evenly
> > loaded-which is not the case, the stress on the bolt would be
> > approximately
> > 11,300 PSI. Recognizing the pre load on the bolt has to be
higher
> > than the
> > maximum load it has to withstand or the two halves of the
caliper
> > will move
> > apart and possibly leak. One of the critical item is knowing
the
> > proper
> > torque value of the bolts. This value is what the manufacture
> > requires and
> > not a generic value from some table. If the working stress in
the
> > bolt is
> > 35000psi the bolt will be approximately .009" longer when
tight
> > than when
> > loose. This stress value is 3 times larges than the estimated
> > working load
> > calculated above. I feel the problem with the approach of
having
> > inexperienced people doing caliper rebuilding is the lack of
> > proper tools,
> > information and Magniflux or Ultrasonic testing. Again, I
wish
> > only to
> > caution people to consider the risk they are taking when not
> > following
> > recommendations of the manufacture when it comes to the safety
of
> > the car.
> > Hope this helps.
> > Richard Pratt
> > 65 BJ8
> > Cincinnati, OH
> > Richard
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> > > [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Karlsson
> > Magnus
> > > Sent: Monday, June 05, 2000 10:33 PM
> > > To: Healey Lista
> > > Subject: SV: SV: Caliper Bridge Bolts
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Ed
> > >
> > > If you think it´s better to run 35 years old calipers
> > unrestored,
> > > fine by me.
> > >
> > > I´m not claiming to be THE most renowned expert. In my
> > experience
> > > it is pretty safe since I´ve done it many times as long as
the
> > > bolts seem to be ok and I haven´t had a failure yet. I have
> > > always been wondering about why it is supposed to be so
> > dangerous
> > > to split the calipers especially considering the age of the
> > > square o-rings in them. I feel a lot safer when these are
> > > replaced. It´s also strange that Girling wont supply these o
> > > rings nor the bolts.
> > >
> > > I suspect that the recommendations of the companies have to
do
> > > with legal responsibilities on their part for eventual
failures.
> > >
> > > Magnus Karlsson
> > >
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: <JustBrits@aol.com>
> > > To: <healey@telia.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 4:06 AM
> > > Subject: Re: SV: Caliper Bridge Bolts
> > >
> > >
> > > > In a message dated 06/05/2000 8:59:04 PM Central Daylight
> > Time,
> > > > healey@telia.com writes:
> > > >
> > > > <<
> > > > It´s pretty safe to reuse the bolts as long as they have
not
> > been over
> > > > torqued.>>
> > > >
> > > > Magnus: That is the single MOST stupid thing I have EVER
> > read.
> > > Just how do
> > > > you know?? And since Lucas/Girling and GMC and FMC all
say
> > not
> > > to re-use
> > > > bolts; how have you :instantly" become THE most renowned
> > expert???
> > > >
> > > > <<By the way I think its much safer to split these old
> > > calipers in order to
> > > > renew the square cut o-ring than not doing it. >>
> > > >
> > > > And that is a "damned if you do and damned if you don't"
kind
> > > of phrase, huh??
> > > >
> > > > Ed
> > > >
> > > > PS: Oh yeah, add SAE to the above list.
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
From Jim Hill <Jim_Hill at chsra.wisc.edu>
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 15:34:11 -0500
Subject: radar guns vs LBC's esp. my 100
"frogeye" wrote:
> . . .
>He says his radar indicated 68MPH. I know what I saw
>on mine, I know I'm right, really. I ask when or if his gun
>was recently calibrated, he falls mute.
>Does the shape of the old flat glass windshields, or the
>presence of extra chrome or other factors relative to older
>cars have any known effect on radar readings?
Ingenious thought, but no. Probably a good thing, since hiring an expert to
testify to the existence of such an effect--and it's application to your
particular case--would bankrupt you in short order.
>I'm aware of radio/microwave/etc interference. Any
>studies on radio interference from old ignition systems?
Ditto.
>No other traffic around, flat,level,clear conditions. My
>theroy is perhaps his digit readout was not well visualized
>by the officer, ie. not much difference between an electronic
>6 or 5.
If you asked to see the readout on the radar unit at the scene (which you
have a right to do) and were refused, you may well have a legitimate
defense. If you didn't ask, you're probably S.O.L.
You can also ask the officer at trial if other motorists had complained
about the accuracy of his radar around the same date as your ticket was
issued (which he'll almost certainly deny), and you can ask him when his
radar unit was last tested and ask to see the test certificate, but (unless
this was the Hooterville police dept.) you're likely to find out that the
radar gun was recently tested and found accurate.
>Or he saw a RED sports car and he suffers from assholeism.
Undoubtedly true . . . but difficult to prove.
Were you wearing gloves at the time of the incident? Perhaps you could get
the officer to admit that you were wearing gloves, and then pull out a pair
of gloves and demonstrate that they don't fit . . .
I don't mean to make light of your situation (been there, got that shaft),
but beating a speeding ticket usually takes either substantial resources or
an inordinate amount of luck.
Jim Hill
Madison WI
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 15:38:39 -0500
Subject: RE: Bloody Bad that Bucket Bolt Blindness
Ahh, the old "listed in the table but not shown in the diagram" trick!
Thank you Michael. Certainly hope the correct type of screw and nut are
still available.
Regards,
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Salter [mailto:magicare@home.com]
Sent: Wednesday, June 07, 2000 12:54 PM
To: Merchant, Adnan
Cc: 'healeys@Autox.team.net'
Subject: Re: Bloody Bad that Bucket Bolt Blindness
Hi Adnan,
BJ8 parts book page MN7.3. The head lamp mounting screws are shown in the
text.
(Looks like an afterthought)
Screw RMZ0301 Qty 8
Washer LWZ203 Qty 8
Nut 1B2805 Qty8
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From Peter Brauen <pbrauen at telepak.net>
Date: Wed, 07 Jun 2000 15:50:09 -0500
Subject: Rear hub nut
Help! Does anyone have a trick way to get the 8-sided hub nuts off of the
rear axle(BJ8) without the factory tool? What size socket will work best or
am I going to have to make another tool? The nuts measure 2 3/16 from flat
to flat, but a standard 12 point socket that size will not work...any
suggestions?
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
Chris,
Two suggestions: 1) Knock back one stud on the rear hub with your brass
hammer and you will have enough room to get a medium sized pipe wrench on
the nut. Just don't forget to put the stud in the hole before you put the
hub back on as it is impossible to replace afterwards. BTW this doesn't work
on disk wheel cars as the studs are too long.
2) Go to the hardware store and buy a 2" pipe thread coupler. Then pound
eight equal flats with a hammer and anvil (or vice, dolly etc.) I worked
side to side and then diagonally but it shouldn't matter. The resulting
piece fit almost perfectly the first time, and required only a little
tweaking with the hammer to get it perfect. The inside still has (flattened)
threads in it but so what? You can then either weld your favorite broken
socket to it, turn it with a pipe wrench, or drill two holes and use a tommy
bar.
Hope this helps.---Peter (BMC Restorations)
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Wed, 07 Jun 2000 13:53:48 -0700
Subject: Re: Top Frame Problem -solved
Michael Salter wrote:
> Hi John,
> I always wondered what thoes little aluminium shims were for!!
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Really?! So there are little aluminum shims normally found in that area
or do you have some "mystery shims" that would work for that
application? I was thinking that a metal shim would be a cleaner
solution but just went with the quick and dirty solution for now
(washers).
Cheers,
John Loftus
From "jim t.p. ryan" <ryan at jimryan.com>
Date: Wed, 07 Jun 2000 14:03:36 -0700
Subject: Re: radar guns vs LBC's esp. my 100
Driving while red?
Sincerely,
Jim Ryan
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Lupynec mlupynec@globalserve.net
Sent: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 15:57:33 -0400
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: radar guns vs LBC's esp. my 100
You are a victim of profiling?
Mike L.
60A,67E,59Bug
----- Original Message -----
From: frogeye <frogeye@gateway.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: June 7, 2000 2:13 PM
Subject: radar guns vs LBC's esp. my 100
>
> All right it's finally happened. There I was just cruising along
a nice 2
> lane road and up ahead, about 2000 yds, I see a police vehicle
approaching,
> I gaze at my speedo, recently recalibrated (10/99) it indicates
58MPH, I'm
> in a 55 zone and I figure no self respecting cop is going to
question 3MPH
> over. Well, wrong. He says his radar indicated 68MPH. I know
what I saw on
> mine, I know I'm right, really. I ask when or if his gun was
recently
> calibrated, he falls mute.
> My question to all you traffic experts is, Does the shape of
the old flat
> glass windshields, or the presence of extra chrome or other
factors
> relative to older cars have any known effect on radar readings?
I'm aware of
> radio/microwave/etc interference. Any studies on radio
interference from old
> ignition systems? No other traffic around, flat,level,clear
conditions. My
> theroy is perhaps his digit readout was not well visualized by
the officer,
> ie. not much difference between an electronic 6 or 5. Or he saw
a RED sports
> car and he suffers from assholeism.
> Any viable court useable opinions are appreciated. PS rechecked
the
> calibration last night against one of our cities " Your Speed
Is: " signs.
> Spot on!
>
> TIA Dave
>
>
>
___________________________________________________________________________
Visit http://www.visto.com/info, your free web-based communications center.
Visto.com. Life on the Dot.
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 07 Jun 2000 17:04:58 -0400
Subject: Re: BJ8 Windshield Centre Bracket
"Merchant, Adnan" wrote:
> Hi,
>
> As I started work on the front shroud, I found a hex-head bolt screwed
> through a hole into a brass nut surrounded by the remains of what was once
> rubber. I'm fairly certain this is the fastener pair used to secure the
> windshield center bracket to the shroud.
>
> I have a couple of questions regarding this arrangement - does the rubber
> piece go in from the underside of the shroud, that is, do I have to put it
> in place before the shroud gets mounted onto the car?
>
> Secondly, is this thing available? Moss and VB catalogs illustrate the
> part but don't show it as available.
>
> Along these lines, are there other bits and pieces that I should install to
> the shroud first?
>
> Thanks again,
> Adnan
Adnan,
Regarding the windshield center support nut. Part # AHB9794. Despite looking
for these for the last 20 years I have never been able to find them in 1/4 fine
thread.. The problem is that there really isn't any access to the bottom of the
screw from below. I have gone as far as cutting a hole in the bulkhead top
panel to correct this problem by installing a nut from the bottom.
As to items that you should install before the shroud. I always install the
blower and vent ducting before fitting the shrouds. They can be a bear to fit
afterward.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 07 Jun 2000 17:20:01 -0400
Subject: Re: Top Frame Problem -solved
John Loftus wrote:
> Michael Salter wrote:
> > Hi John,
> > I always wondered what thoes little aluminium shims were for!!
> > --
> > Regards,
> >
> > Mike Salter
> > http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> > >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
> Really?! So there are little aluminum shims normally found in that area
> or do you have some "mystery shims" that would work for that
> application? I was thinking that a metal shim would be a cleaner
> solution but just went with the quick and dirty solution for now
> (washers).
>
> Cheers,
> John Loftus
John,
The shims were made of aluminium about 2 1/2 inches long and 3/4 inches
wide. They have a hole in one end and a U saped cut out in the other, about
50 thou thick. Because they don't seem to have a part number they are in
our misc body parts box. Big box, long time to find.
If you are stuck I will take a look.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 07 Jun 2000 17:29:45 -0400
Subject: Re: Top Frame Problem -solved
John Loftus wrote:
> Michael Salter wrote:
> > Hi John,
> > I always wondered what thoes little aluminium shims were for!!
> > --
> > Regards,
> >
> > Mike Salter
> > http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> > >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
> Really?! So there are little aluminum shims normally found in that area
> or do you have some "mystery shims" that would work for that
> application? I was thinking that a metal shim would be a cleaner
> solution but just went with the quick and dirty solution for now
> (washers).
>
> Cheers,
> John Loftus
Just remembered,
They used the same shim under the door strikers of the BJ7&8
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 15:51:02 -0400
Subject: Re: Let the flames begin!
Sounds more like you wear a hair shirt. You must be one fun guy. All aspects
of the list are interesting to me. Lets face it most of us will never meet
so we'll only get to know a little about each other via this list. Chill!
RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
-----Original Message-----
From: bn1@flashcom.net <bn1@flashcom.net>
To: Healeys <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, June 07, 2000 2:49 AM
Subject: Let the flames begin!
>
>I'm sorry, listers. I subscribe to two lists. One is moderated and
>this one is not. I average about 90 emails a day.
>
>IMHO the Healey list has degenerated significantly. Today there were
>at least 30 emails that had nothing to do with helping an owner with
>his car, answering a question or supplying info about an event.
>
>On my moderated list, such would have been rejected back to the sender.
>
>Of course I want to read everything about Healeys. However, I really
>don't give a s**t about who waves to who!
>
>OK, the asbestos underwear is on!
>
>Bill Barnett
>Santa Ana, CA
>BN1 #663
>
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 15:57:31 -0400
Subject: Re: radar guns vs LBC's esp. my 100
Should have thrown the book at you. Punching it in a school zone anywhere is
totally stupid but in one 500 yards from your house is moronic. You have to
know it's there. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan with a 13 year old daughter.
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, June 07, 2000 4:06 PM
Subject: Re: radar guns vs LBC's esp. my 100
>
>I had a similar situation when I lived in NY state. Was driving back from
>getting my MR2 serviced and punched it to see if the vibration I was
>feeling was cured. This just happened to be in a school zone about 500
>yards from my house. Sure enough, coming the other way is a state trooper.
>I watch him pull a U-turn and follow me into my driveway! Anyway, I explain
>to him that the $$ wasn't the issue, but my insurer said ANY tickets and
>they'd drop me. (And I had a clean record!)
>
>So my day comes in court, I find the trooper and remind him of my
>situation. We go before the judge and the officer says he'd like to change
>the infraction to some bla bla code number. The judge looks up at me and
>says "Broken speedometer cable?" with this strange look. I plead guilty,
>pay the $80, no points, no insurance hassles.
>
>As I'm paying the clerk, I overhear the next case, another broken
>speedometer cable!! I guess the moral is, as long as they get their fines,
>they can be somewhat flexible on the section of the traffic code they use
>to enforce it.
>
>bk
>-----------------------------------------
>At 11:43 AM 6/7/00 , cstinehelfer@bajamarine.com wrote:
>
>
>>I have tried to fight this in my area before with mixed results;
basically
>>I have learned 2 things.
>>
>>1. Brothers of the law enforcement arena stick together - TIGHTLY!
(Judges
>>included)
>>
>>2. Most Judges can be convinced to make a notation in their rulings to
have
>>no points assigned to your license. I don't know about everyone else, but
>>I don't worry about paying the fines; its the insurance rates that kill
>>you. And they are based on points against your license here in Ohio, ergo
>>offer that you were unintentionally speeding, apologize, explain that you
>>will gladly pay any fines incurred and ask politely that no points be
>>assigned. Works wonders.
>>
>>
>>Chris
>>'54 100
>
>
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 18:10:02 EDT
Subject: Re: SV: Caliper Bridge Bolts
In a message dated 6/7/00 8:39:58 AM, mlupynec@globalserve.net writes:
<<
There are a number of listers who can contribute to this test.
Would also be nice to have a control group of those who have not
unbolted their caliper halves and see if their square gaskets
spring a leak. >>
I'd been ignoring this thread, but my one piece of anecdotal experience:
When I restored my BN7, I drained the brake fluid, removed the brake
calipers, and set them aside for the interim. Only nine months later, I put
them back on, refilled the brake fluid and a few days later set off for my
first test drive. On my first hard stop, the brakes started to catch, then
my pedal went to the floor. Got home using the emergency brake to find that
both calipers had given up, burst, whatever and I had brake fluid all over my
wheels and fenders (luckily it was silicone, as had been in there when I
bought the car).
I pulled the calipers apart to discover that the little square o-rings had
dried out and when subjected to pressure, gave out completely.
So, my one-anecdote experience. If you have the calipers off for any length
of time, you might seriously consider replacing the o-rings. And, as
suggested by someone else, get a new set of bolts (go grade 8, bolts are
cheap, life's expensive) to put the calipers back together again.
Cheers
Gary
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 18:13:44 EDT
Subject: Re: RE: SV: Caliper Bridge Bolts
In a message dated 6/7/00 9:21:32 AM, prattri@email.msn.com writes:
<<
Mike,
My point is that the test you suggest and no doubt other test were done by
the manufacture. The results of those test have resulted in the
recommendations made by the manufacture. To me, it just makes good sense to
follow them.
Richard >>
One more thought -- don't forget that workshop manuals and other literature
were written to be read by owners of cars that were only zero to five or six
years old. They didn't contemplate that someone would be looking at a set of
brake calipers 35 years later and trying to decide whether to split them or
not. On a four-year-old car, as the design engineer, you'd probably tell the
owner to keep his hands off. On a 34 year old car, seems to me it's a
different story.
Cheers
gary
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 18:19:13 EDT
Subject: Re: Running Temps
In a message dated 6/7/00 1:35:48 PM, tm-c@gmx.net writes:
<< When the engine is hot, after a good drive, the pressure at idle is the
normal 20 PSI but leaving it idling, say at a long red lightphase, the
needle goes down to almost zero. The revs stay just fine around 500. >>
I usually keep my revs up around 800 -- think that's about what the service
manual recommends. Could make a major difference in oil pressure.
Cheers
gary
From "Colin O'Brien" <cob at atg.com.au>
Date: Thu, 08 Jun 2000 08:49:05 +1000
Subject: Re: radar guns vs LBC's esp. my 100
Hi Dave,
As an ex-microwave engineer that used to design missile guidance radars, I'd
say his "gun" was either wrongly calibrated or he miss-read it.
There have been heaps of attempts to use all sorts of convoluted theories to
prove the unreliablity of radar guns but, believe me, if they didn't work
well (IMPORTANTLY - in the right conditions as yours were) they wouldn't be
in use by the Police forces around the world.
The problem is how to prove the cop is either lying or needs glasses?!
Regards
Colin O'Brien
--
> From: "frogeye" <frogeye@gateway.net>
> Reply-To: "frogeye" <frogeye@gateway.net>
> Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 12:13:19 -0600
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: radar guns vs LBC's esp. my 100
>
>
> All right it's finally happened. There I was just cruising along a nice 2
> lane road and up ahead, about 2000 yds, I see a police vehicle approaching,
> I gaze at my speedo, recently recalibrated (10/99) it indicates 58MPH, I'm
> in a 55 zone and I figure no self respecting cop is going to question 3MPH
> over. Well, wrong. He says his radar indicated 68MPH. I know what I saw on
> mine, I know I'm right, really. I ask when or if his gun was recently
> calibrated, he falls mute.
> My question to all you traffic experts is, Does the shape of the old flat
> glass windshields, or the presence of extra chrome or other factors
> relative to older cars have any known effect on radar readings? I'm aware of
> radio/microwave/etc interference. Any studies on radio interference from old
> ignition systems? No other traffic around, flat,level,clear conditions. My
> theroy is perhaps his digit readout was not well visualized by the officer,
> ie. not much difference between an electronic 6 or 5. Or he saw a RED sports
> car and he suffers from assholeism.
> Any viable court useable opinions are appreciated. PS rechecked the
> calibration last night against one of our cities " Your Speed Is: " signs.
> Spot on!
>
> TIA Dave
>
>
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 19:01:27 EDT
Subject: Re: SV: Caliper Bridge Bolts/Minor Buyers
In a message dated 6/7/00 6:55:49 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
Editorgary@aol.com writes:
<< One more thought -- don't forget that workshop manuals and other
literature
were written to be read by owners of cars that were only zero to five or six
years old. >>
Now why would such young kids buy Healeys??
Michael (Ducking)
From "Ron Schonscheck" <schonny at y2consult.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 17:24:53 -0600
Subject: Re: Running Temps
Good point Gary and I had meant to add that to my response as well.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 07, 2000 4:19 PM
Subject: Re: Running Temps
>
>
> In a message dated 6/7/00 1:35:48 PM, tm-c@gmx.net writes:
>
> << When the engine is hot, after a good drive, the pressure at idle is the
> normal 20 PSI but leaving it idling, say at a long red lightphase, the
> needle goes down to almost zero. The revs stay just fine around 500. >>
>
> I usually keep my revs up around 800 -- think that's about what the
service
> manual recommends. Could make a major difference in oil pressure.
> Cheers
> gary
>
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 20:03:00 -0400
Subject: Right-angle drive lubrication
Hello, Healeyphiles!
I am about to install a new right-angle drive for the speedo cable in my
BJ8. There is a small screw in it. Is this for lubrication? If so, what
lubricant should be used?
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC
"It is better to remain silent and be thought a fool
than to speak, and remove all doubt"
From Jimmysmth at aol.com
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 21:12:48 EDT
Subject: Re: Non-wave related, please delete if Healey oriented material is
offensive.
In a message dated 6/7/00 1:50:55 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
cstinehelfer@bajamarine.com writes:
<< Fiat 124 master cylinder from a 1970-80 models will work >>
I too used a Fiat 124 dual master cylinder ($35 brand new from International
Auto Parts) on my 100-6 (disc brakes) with good results. Had to do a little
fabrication because the Fiat one has no snap ring groove for the push rod
washer. The Fiat fittings are metric, so make sure you get the right
adaptors (available from the local auto parts store).
The bore of the Fiat master cylinder is 3/4", I think the bore of the 100-4
master cylinder is 7/8, so you may notice a different pedal response. Make
sure you can convert back to stock if for some reason you don't like the
results.
Good Luck,
Jim
From "Ross Leonard" <rkleonard at sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 21:41:32 -0400
Subject: Rear hub o-ring woes
Good Day,
Just finished rebuilding my rear axle/differential, and am putting the
pieces back together. Can anyone give me a tip on how to keep the o-ring on
the wire wheel hub while sliding the axle shaft in place (and the spacer,
and the paper gasket)? Should the o-ring be large enough to lay in the
groove without having to hold it down? Mine keeps popping out of the
groove...it seems that the diameter of the ring is much smaller than that on
the hub. I tried soaking it in hot water for a few minutes to see if it
would expand, but no luck. BTW....these o-rings were purchased from Moss, so
I assume they are the correct size.
Any help would be greatly appreciated....I'd love to have the rear axle back
together and off my list of to-do's!
Ross Leonard
'64 BJ8
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 20:19:22 EDT
Subject: Re: Waves & exhaust Turn off
In a message dated 6/6/00 7:18:04 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
Editorgary@aol.com writes:
<<
But don't wave to them. If they take the hand that isn't holding the
cellphone off the wheel, they may run into something.
Cheers >>
Gary,
You got that right! Almost every driver in a SUV has one hand on a
cellphone. Hate to have them use the only hand on the wheel to wave.
John
100-Six Erika the Red
From D Job <djob at home.com>
Date: Wed, 07 Jun 2000 20:15:55 -0400
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note Turnoff...Waves
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>
Where do older Loti fit in here ???
> David Maxwell and the ever Bri-ish Mrs. Peel >>
> Above Triumphs and MGs, below Jaguars. Based on costs, probably would expect
> the Healey to wave first.
>
Actually, older Loti owners generally don't wave as their heads are
either under the bonnet or under the car, or they'e simply searching for
parts that have fallen off and don't see the other cars coming..
cheers Derek 58 BN4 "MM"
From Martin Filardi <filardi at uconect.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 22:41:39 -0400
Subject: lucas sport coil
Is it possible to put a lucas sport coil on a BJ8 and just bypass the ballast
resister? What is the ballast resister anyway? I want the bigger coil but do
not want to change the points settup. Will the sport coil be too much voltage
for the points?
TIA, Marty
From Martin Filardi <filardi at uconect.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 10:26:51 -0400
Subject: lucas sport coil
Is it possible to put a lucas sport coil on a BJ8 and just bypass the ballast
resister? What is the ballast resister anyway? I want the bigger coil but do
not want to change the points settup. Will the sport coil be too much voltage
for the points?
TIA, Marty
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Wed, 07 Jun 2000 20:56:35 -0700
Subject: Re: lucas sport coil
At 07:41 PM 6/7/00 , Martin Filardi wrote:
>Is it possible to put a lucas sport coil on a BJ8 and just bypass the
>ballast resister? What is the ballast resister anyway? I want the bigger
>coil but do not want to change the points settup. Will the sport coil be
>too much voltage for the points?
> TIA, Marty
------------
Here's a little info which will help explain what the ballast resistor is for.
http://www.xke-lovers.com/ballast.htm
bk
Bill Katz
SF Bay Area
'67 BJ8
'94 325is
http://www.handsonresearch.com/healey
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2000 00:27:04 EDT
Subject: 50's Cars,Harley-D and Doo Wop Music Day
Today was tops! Had a 130 mile drive in my 100-Six "Erika" out to British
Car Specialists in Stockton to pick up a couple of parts? On the way back had
a couple of Buds in a funky bar on the Delta with a Harley-Davidson rider who
use to own and race a AH 100 M in the 70's. Then this evening, listened to
two hours of 50's Doo Wop music on KQED. Talk about a time-warp day!
Did anyone else catch the Doo Wop 50's Music Show on several PBS stations
this week? Great songs like Earth Angel, Duke of Earl, 16 Candles, Only You a
nd Blue Moon. Great performers like the Platters, Cleftones, Marcels, Jive
Five and Speedo And The Cadillacs. Wow!
They had three or so 1950s era cars on stage as backdrop. Looked like an
early 50's Mercury coup, a mid 50's Corvett convertible, and a Chevy or Cad
convertible. It was a little hard to get a full view of the cars. Did any
one else figure out what make, model and year the cars were?
Anyway, a totally 50's time-warp day for me!!!
John
100-Six Erika the Red
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Wed, 07 Jun 2000 20:59:08 -0700
Subject: Re: lucas sport coil
At 07:41 PM 6/7/00 , Martin Filardi wrote:
>Is it possible to put a lucas sport coil on a BJ8 and just bypass the
>ballast resister? What is the ballast resister anyway? I want the bigger
>coil but do not want to change the points settup. Will the sport coil be
>too much voltage for the points?
> TIA, Marty
------------
One more for you.
http://www.vtr.org/maintain/ballast.html
bk
Bill Katz
SF Bay Area
'67 BJ8
'94 325is
http://www.handsonresearch.com/healey
From Martin Filardi <filardi at uconect.net>
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2000 06:17:36 -0400
Subject: lucas sport coil
Is it possible to put a lucas sport coil on a BJ8 and just bypass the ballast
resister? What is the ballast resister anyway? I want the bigger coil but do
not want to change the points settup. Will the sport coil be too much voltage
for the points?
TIA, Marty
From Martin Filardi <filardi at uconect.net>
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2000 06:34:00 -0400
Subject: missfire, BJ8
My BJ8 started misfiring again, I solved the problem some months ago by
installing a Facet fuel pump up front, and was running with 2 pumps, The Lucas
would work once and a while. I thought there might be some rust from the tank
in the Lucas that has a brass screen on the intake port. I took that apart and
it was caked with rust, with a little opening for fuel. Cleaned that out, and
the Lucas works much better! For the fun of it, I took the drain off the gas
tank, nothing came out! Cleaned out the tank, which is only 5 years old. The
top of the tank had much rust on it that sheds off and cakes the bottom. Put
the whole thing together, and it still misfires the same way. Took off the
distributor, and there was a lot of arcing in it. Come to find out that I need
solid wires for the ignition. Changed out those silicone wires and it works
better, but now I have a question on the timing? What does that timing mark on
the crank, with the pointer mean? Is that TDC? Where is 10 deg.? Do I just
estimate this, or do I turn the distributor until is runs right, and do road
tests. I have not taken off the float bowls yet, or coated the tank. These
things are on the todo list, which at last count was in 7 figures. Any
thoughts? The engine was running like a bear a few weeks ago, so I do not think
it is anything internal.
TIA, Marty
From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2000 07:56:56 EDT
Subject: Rear hub nuts removed!
I would like to thank everyone for the tool ideas for removing the hub nuts. I
ended up going with a 2 1/8 12 point socket and modified it as follows. First
I ground off the relief so that the socket would reach as far onto the nut as
possible. I then ground off every 3rd point with my Dremel and a cutting
wheel. Next I ground the remaining 4 sets of 2 points until the socket fit the
nut with a little tapping. Grabs four of the nut flats with 2 points a piece.
Worked great! Those little bastards were really tight though!
I assume that they should be torqued back on...but I can't seem to find a
number in any of the books. How tight do they need to be?
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at connect.comdek.net.au>
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2000 20:41:53 +0800
Subject: TROUBLE WITH THE LIST?
Hi All
Are we having trouble with the list.
Message sent 11 hours ago has not returned.
Messages seem to be doubled up and I have received only one message in the
last 6 hours.
Its a long way out here but not that far.
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
From "Ledwith, Ryan S" <ryan.s.ledwith at ssmb.com>
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2000 09:17:44 -0400
Subject: Chassis Painting - what primer to use?
I've almost reached bottom: the chassis is stripped, welded, degreased and
ready for blasting. Let the reassembly begin!
I'm sure we've covered this before, but I was focusing on other things.
What is the property order for primers on the chassis? Do I spray a surface
prep before the primer, then the colorcoat? Does anyone use a color / clear
on the chassis, or can the color be sprayed without the clear?
I'm going to use PPG brand paint because they are local and paint is easy to
get there.
Thanks! btw, I wave to all cool cars, even if they aren't British :)
Ryan Ledwith
64 BJ7
Connecticut
From "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec at globalserve.net>
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2000 09:34:30 -0400
Subject: tool bag
I would like to buy a vgc or restorable original (not MacGregor)
Bugeye tool bag. Any chance someone knows where there might be one
for sale?
Mike L.
60A,67E,59Bug
From "Scheuble, Fred J., HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2000 09:31:23 -0400
Subject: 3RD GEAR
Hi all
I'm looking for NOS 3rd gear to fit layshaft AEC3649
Thanks,
Fred
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 08 Jun 2000 09:44:40 -0400
Subject: Re: lucas sport coil
Martin Filardi wrote:
> Is it possible to put a lucas sport coil on a BJ8 and just bypass the
>ballast resister? What is the ballast resister anyway? I want the bigger coil
>but do not want to change the points settup. Will the sport coil be too much
>voltage for the points?
> TIA, Marty
Hi Marty,
Your BJ8 should not have a ballast resistor. The ignition system is a full 12
volt system and the starting system does not include the ballast resistor
bypass wire that allows for the better spark on startup.
You can use a Sport coil but IMHO the only improvement is aesthetic.
The standard ignition system in your Healey, when in good condition, is
perfectly adequate for that engine in standard tune.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From "Fichter, Lew HSV Tecolote"
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2000 07:10:59 -0700
Subject: Colors - I Am So confused
I recently bought a 1960 BT7 which appears to be original in every respect.
This car has a black interior and a brown interior. The interior is not a
light brown (tan) but brown. In all the literature that I have seen,
included the new book, this exterior/interior color combination does not
show up. Am I missing something. Help!!
Thanks
LSF
From Peter Brauen <pbrauen at telepak.net>
Date: Thu, 08 Jun 2000 09:24:05 -0500
Subject: Re: TROUBLE WITH THE LIST?
Hey John.
Maybe all the "waves" are causing your problem!---Peter
-----Original Message-----
From: John Rowe <jarowe@connect.comdek.net.au>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, June 08, 2000 8:34 AM
Subject: TROUBLE WITH THE LIST?
Hi All
Are we having trouble with the list.
Message sent 11 hours ago has not returned.
Messages seem to be doubled up and I have received only one message in
the
last 6 hours.
Its a long way out here but not that far.
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
From "Fichter, Lew HSV Tecolote"
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2000 07:24:10 -0700
Subject: FW: Colors - I Am So confused
I AM really confused - I meant Black Exterior and Brown interior.
Sorry
LSF
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Fichter, Lew HSV Tecolote
> Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2000 9:11 AM
> To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
> Subject: Colors - I Am So confused
>
> I recently bought a 1960 BT7 which appears to be original in every
> respect. This car has a black interior and a brown interior. The
> interior is not a light brown (tan) but brown. In all the literature that
> I have seen, included the new book, this exterior/interior color
> combination does not show up. Am I missing something. Help!!
>
> Thanks
>
> LSF
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at connect.comdek.net.au>
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2000 22:50:57 +0800
Subject: Wiring question
Hi all
Just installed the wiring loom to the rear of the car and found that the
wire to the fuel tank is a few inches too short.
Does this wire go through the rear vertical panel in the same hole as the
main rear loom and the wire to the battery cutoff switch or is there another
route?
Does the main rear loom go straight along the chassis rail until it meets
the rear vertical panel or does it go up near the fuel pump and attach to
the rear bump stop box? (BT7 - pump on lhs).
TIA
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
1959 BT7 # 10112, in restoration
From Martin Johnson <MJohnson at cfworks.com>
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2000 07:50:26 -0700
Subject: RE: CA Black Plate Question
I wonder what would be the result if you applied for vanity plates
having the same alpha numeric as your black plates, then after you are
given the vanity plates matching your black plates you run with your old
black plates on the car? I've noticed quite a few 60's muscle cars
where people have taken their modern plates and REPAINTED them black
with yellow numbers. Do you suppose the "man" gets after these guys?
I'm sure that officially it's illegal, but John Q. Law wants to
concentrate on enforcing the law on the real bad guys. Just another
screwy idea that may work... By the way, I'm going to go with the YOM
plates on the Sprite.
Martin Johnson
1960 BN7 Black plates
1959 Sprite Unregistered since 1979
-----Original Message-----
From: F. Ronald Rader [mailto:rader@interworld.net]
Sent: Sunday, June 04, 2000 9:45 PM
To: alan@aspectdv.com; Healey, List
Subject: Re: CA Black Plate Question
Alan:
Thanks for the advice. I had previously tried to register these "clean"
1965
plates.
You are right. I could not. Presently there is a bill at the state
assembly (AB
2058 Mike Briggs R Clovis)
to allow the use of YOM plates up 'til 1974 instead of 1963 as presently
allowed. It passed the assembly unanimously and is now on its way to the
CA
senate, according to Healey Hearsay the monthly magazine of the AH Club
of San
Diego.
I have been driving my car with 3 year old out of state plates since I
bought
it last September. I have paid all of the fees but just recently
finished with
the CHP (as required by the DMV for out of state cars). I am tempted to
try
these black plates on the highway while I wait for the law to change. I
am
going to get the correct plates this week. They will look great in my
trunk.
Ron Rader
1965 BJ8
Alan wrote:
> Don't have an answer to your question, but I thought I'd give you a
> heads up on the black plate thing (I haven't been following the
threads
> lately, so if this is already something that has been discussed, I
> apologize). The DMV will allow you to re-register cars *IF* you are
> re-registering them with YOM (year of manufactuer) plates. The last
> year that this was available was 1962. Basically these are 1956 black
> on yellow plates, with a 1962 sticker on them. In 1963 they went with
> the yellow on black plates that you have. These are not, according to
> the DMV code, plates which qualify for the re-registering policy.
Sooo,
> before you investigate where you place the registration sticker, you
> probably want to get a definitive answer as to whether or not you can
> use the plates. My understanding, and I did a lot of research, is
that
> you cannot. BTW, the only DMV guys that *really* know what they are
> talking about in this area are the guys that handle the vanity plates
in
> Sacramento. The DMV can give you their 916 phone number. Give them a
> call and they'll be able to fill you in. They also can tell you if
the
> plates you want to use (if my understanding is wrong) are currently in
> use. I found them to be pretty nice and helpfull... the other DMV
guys
> were idiots. I had a hell of a time just getting the car register
because
> the lady told me that the VIN number wasn't complete and hence I could
not
> register the car. I had to explain to her that HBTL...... was the way
they
> did the numbers back then!
>
> Good luck.... and I'd like to hear if I'm wrong.
> --Alan
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of F. Ronald Rader
> Sent: Sunday, June 04, 2000 12:45 PM
> To: Healey, List
> Subject: CA Black Plate Question
>
> Listers:
>
> On the theory that I will soon be able to use my pristine black plates
> on my 1965 BJ8.....
>
> Does the stick-on label go on the upper right corner of the rear
plate?
> Where can I find one of those pop up holders for the correct current
> year sticker?
>
> Thanks
> Ron Rader
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at go.com>
Date: Thu, 08 Jun 2000 08:00:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: 100S in the 1954 Panamericana Road Race
In November 1954 Carroll Shelby drove a 100S in the Panamericana Road Race. It
was the model's competition debut. Unfortunately Shelby crashed on the second
day, breaking both arms. There will be a period photo of the wrecked car in
the July Austin-Healey Magazine, and I wonder if anyone can tell me whatever
happened to that car, and who now owns it. Thanks in advance.
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
http://www.healey.org
___________________________________________________
GO Network Mail
Get Your Free, Private E-mail at http://mail.go.com
From Joseph Elmer <Joelmer at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 08 Jun 2000 11:22:08 -0400
Subject: Re: Chassis Painting - what primer to use?
Ryan: Did you spray a rust preventer inside the chassis tubes? Joe Elmer (CT
also)
"Ledwith, Ryan S" wrote:
> I've almost reached bottom: the chassis is stripped, welded, degreased and
> ready for blasting. Let the reassembly begin!
>
> I'm sure we've covered this before, but I was focusing on other things.
> What is the property order for primers on the chassis? Do I spray a surface
> prep before the primer, then the colorcoat? Does anyone use a color / clear
> on the chassis, or can the color be sprayed without the clear?
>
> I'm going to use PPG brand paint because they are local and paint is easy to
> get there.
>
> Thanks! btw, I wave to all cool cars, even if they aren't British :)
>
> Ryan Ledwith
> 64 BJ7
> Connecticut
From "KIRK KVAM" <klkvam at prodigy.net>
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2000 08:36:54 -0700
Subject: California Healey Week
California Healey Week starts today thru Sun.
North Woods Resort, Big Bear Lake, CA.
Healey Show at Blue Whale (lakeside) Sat 8a to 2p.
If not allready going, cone on buy and bring your
Healey or just yourselves and the BJ9 and enjoy
a great day or two in the So. Cal mountains.
Kirk Kvam
62BT7#3
From Gold1434 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2000 11:43:21 EDT
Subject: Radar guns and Assholism
<<My question to all you traffic experts is, Does the shape of the old
flat
glass windshields, or the presence of extra chrome or other factors
relative to older cars have any known effect on radar readings? I'm aware of
radio/microwave/etc interference. Any studies on radio interference from old
ignition systems? No other traffic around, flat,level,clear conditions>>
I told myself I wasn't going to respond to this as I knew the comments
following the original post (and a legitimate one) would undoubtedly turn
into a cop bashing thread. I am rather impressed that it has not and
everyone on the list so far has been mature about this question.
Radar guns are not infallible. I'll try to paint a picture for you. The
rays from a radar work similarly to a flashlight beam. The farther away the
beam travels, the wider it gets. Along those same lines, if your beam of
light hits two objects, one small and one large, and both of these objects
are at equal distance from the source, you will naturally end up with more
light on the larger object, or target. This is the same principle the gun
operates. If your vehicle is beside a Semi or other large vehicle it will
pick up the speed of the larger vehicle before any LBC. The police are
trained in this method and have basically a pick of the litter when it comes
to traffic infractions. Most of them will leave an infraction alone if there
is a question. Violations are quite abundant out there as most of us know.
Since you said you were on a long stretch of road by yourself and he got you
on moving radar your options are limited. Radars are required to be
certified every certain number of months and the police officer is required
to bring this calibration to court with him. The unit also needs to be
manually calibrated before and after the tour of duty. These are the facts
sir. Trust me. And now to get on my soap box.........
It is not mandatory for the police officer to show you the readout on the
unit. He doesn't have to even lock the speed in. As long as the speed is
displayed on his readout, even for a second, its enough to warrant a summons.
Expert testimony will only drain your pocket for something trivial.
Forget it.
Was driving back from getting my MR2 serviced and punched it to see if the
vibration I was feeling was cured. This just happened to be in a school zone
about 500 yards from my house.
Oh boy. I'll leave this one alone.
The accessories on your car have nothing to do with the attraction/accuracy
of the beam. Unless it makes it bigger than the vehicle you are beside.
And the assholism comment. Hmmm. Let me see, how many of you have had a four
year old scream for help because they are trapped in a car because of
someone's bad decision in another car. It may seem a waste of time and you
may feel the officer had nothing better to do than write a summons, but I
assure you it is a necessary evil. Too often a third party is injured for
stupid decisions made in vehicles. Please don't hate the officers for doing
their job. You made a decision and unfortunately got caught. No big deal.
Don't get me wrong. There are places in your city to test drive your
vehicle. Lock the brakes up, rabbit accelerations, and serving can be done
on quiet country roads where no one can get hurt except yourself. This way
if you do make a bad decision you are only endangering yourself and no one
else.
The problem is how to prove the cop is either lying or needs glasses?!
This is where you need to focus your fight. You can't prove he needs glasses
so your only hope to get a dismissal is to find a flaw in the officer's
testimony, i.e., calibrations, venue, articulation etc. The officer may have
made a mistake. Everyone does. I understand you were not driving
recklessly. And if you were indeed driving the pace you say then my advice
to you is if your driving record is bad, get a lawyer and see if you qualify
for driving school. The fine will be dropped and no points added to your
record at the completion of the school. Your out of pocket expenses is the
lawyer and the school. Possibly a lot of money up front, but you win in the
long run. Any lawyer that graduated can recommend Driver Improvement. Good
luck.
Sure is high up here on this soap box.......
Steve Goldman
Chesapeake, Va.
56 BN2 "The Beast"
From ccruz at tribune.com
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2000 10:45:00 -0500
Subject: tool bag
I understand the Gucci hand bags make really nice tool bags.
Remember, Pinkies in the air and wave like Her Majesty, the Queen.
Carlos Cruz
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2000 08:19:22 -0700
Subject: Re: TROUBLE WITH THE LIST?
Perhaps excessive high tides or the sun spot shower thats happening these
days...Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Brauen" <pbrauen@telepak.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "John Rowe"
<jarowe@connect.comdek.net.au>
Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2000 7:24 AM
Subject: Re: TROUBLE WITH THE LIST?
>
> Hey John.
> Maybe all the "waves" are causing your problem!---Peter
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Rowe <jarowe@connect.comdek.net.au>
> To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Thursday, June 08, 2000 8:34 AM
> Subject: TROUBLE WITH THE LIST?
>
>
>
> Hi All
>
> Are we having trouble with the list.
> Message sent 11 hours ago has not returned.
> Messages seem to be doubled up and I have received only one message in
> the
> last 6 hours.
>
> Its a long way out here but not that far.
>
> Regards
>
> John Rowe
> Perth
> Western Australia
>
>
>
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2000 09:05:17 -0700
Subject: Its All In The Timing...
I have some questions regarding timing on a 61 BT7 tricarb. I am pondering
going to an electronic ignition and wondering about the timing. When I time
the vehicle now I do it static. The manual states 10 deg BTDC (which is
approx. 5/8" on the flywheel) for static timing and the points set to just
opening. If I change to an electronic ignition I will have to time the
vehicle via strobe...correct? I have found in a manual...to time via strobe,
setting should be 15 deg. when running at 600 rpm and vacuum advance
removed? I actually checked the timing with an advance timing light set at
15 deg. and it seems to check out when I manage to get the revs down to 600.
I wanted to see how close these settings are before pulling everything
apart, the old reference thingy. Comments, hints, suggestions....Thanks,
Neil
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2000 13:02:24 EDT
Subject: Re: Colors - I Am So confused
In a message dated 6/8/00 8:20:51 AM, LFichter@HSV.Tecolote.com writes:
<< The interior is not a
light brown (tan) but brown. In all the literature that I have seen,
included the new book, this exterior/interior color combination does not
show up. Am I missing something. Help!! >>
Fair question -- To my knowledge -- and a lot of other people I've discussed
this point with -- the Healeys never came, as original, with tan interiors.
However, since other sports cars did (e.g. Jaguar) all of the regular
aftermarket kit folks made interior kits in tan. So what you may be looking
at is an aftermarket swap that might have been done while the car was still
fairly new. However, if you were to put it next to a BT7 with an original
interior and compared everything point for point, and they were identical in
specs and installation, then we might have an interesting discussion. Why
don't you take a short roll of pictures, have them developed at the drug
store and send them to Roger Moment or me. We may be able to tell whether
there are any tell-tale signs that the interior was a replacement kit...
or not. Which would be interesting.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2000 12:03:35 -0500
Subject: RE: Rear hub o-ring woes
Hi,
I don't recall having much trouble with the o-rings but try coating them
lightly with grease while installing. My rings came from VB so perhaps
they have a different fit.
It's been a while so I can't be certain about this but it may be possible to
slip the o-ring onto the spacer first as a sub-assembly.
The paper gasket stays put if you apply a film of Hylomar. Don't forget to
bend the locktabs on the washers....
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: Ross Leonard [mailto:rkleonard@sympatico.ca]
Sent: Wednesday, June 07, 2000 6:42 PM
To: 'Healey List'
Subject: Rear hub o-ring woes
Good Day,
Just finished rebuilding my rear axle/differential, and am putting the
pieces back together. Can anyone give me a tip on how to keep the o-ring on
the wire wheel hub while sliding the axle shaft in place (and the spacer,
and the paper gasket)? Should the o-ring be large enough to lay in the
groove without having to hold it down? Mine keeps popping out of the
groove...it seems that the diameter of the ring is much smaller than that on
the hub. I tried soaking it in hot water for a few minutes to see if it
would expand, but no luck. BTW....these o-rings were purchased from Moss, so
I assume they are the correct size.
Any help would be greatly appreciated....I'd love to have the rear axle back
together and off my list of to-do's!
Ross Leonard
'64 BJ8
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2000 13:17:04 -0400
Subject: Fw: Right-angle drive lubrication?
Weird --
My SENT mail has the text in it, but what showed up on the list had no text
at all??
I wrote:
____________________
Hello Healeyphiles!
I am about to install a new right-angle drive for the speedo cable in my
BJ8. There is a small screw in it. Is this for lubrication? If so, what
lubricant should be used? If not, what do the screw do?
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC
"It is better to remain silent and be thought a fool
than to speak, and remove all doubt"
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Thu, 08 Jun 2000 10:40:03 -0700
Subject: Re: Its All In The Timing...
At 09:05 AM 6/8/00 , you wrote:
>I have some questions regarding timing on a 61 BT7 tricarb. I am pondering
>going to an electronic ignition and wondering about the timing. When I time
>the vehicle now I do it static. The manual states 10 deg BTDC (which is
>approx. 5/8" on the flywheel) for static timing and the points set to just
>opening. If I change to an electronic ignition I will have to time the
>vehicle via strobe...correct? I have found in a manual...to time via strobe,
>setting should be 15 deg. when running at 600 rpm and vacuum advance
>removed? I actually checked the timing with an advance timing light set at
>15 deg. and it seems to check out when I manage to get the revs down to 600.
>I wanted to see how close these settings are before pulling everything
>apart, the old reference thingy. Comments, hints, suggestions....Thanks,
>Neil
--------------------
Don't know which one you're going to use, but when I put in my Pertronix, I
had to turn the distributor a ton, clockwise I believe, from where it was
set with the points. Obviously the triggering was happening in a different
part of the rotation. Anyway, since you can't do a static test, just
thought I'd warn you that if it cranks and coughs or doesn't even spit, try
turning the dist. Be careful though, I snapped the vacuum line at the
bellows the first time!
bk
From John Trifari <john4 at home.com>
Date: Wed, 07 Jun 2000 22:55:16 -0700
Subject: Re: TROUBLE WITH THE LIST?
same problem. John Trifari 1955 BN1 (California--some say we're far
out too)
John Rowe wrote:
>
> Hi All
>
> Are we having trouble with the list.
> Message sent 11 hours ago has not returned.
> Messages seem to be doubled up and I have received only one message in the
> last 6 hours.
>
> Its a long way out here but not that far.
>
> Regards
>
> John Rowe
> Perth
> Western Australia
From "Scheuble, Fred J., HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2000 14:08:22 -0400
Subject: RE: Right-angle drive lubrication?
probably the "love healeys virus"
-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Byers [mailto:byers@cconnect.net]
Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2000 1:17 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Fw: Right-angle drive lubrication?
Weird --
My SENT mail has the text in it, but what showed up on the list had no text
at all??
I wrote:
____________________
Hello Healeyphiles!
I am about to install a new right-angle drive for the speedo cable in my
BJ8. There is a small screw in it. Is this for lubrication? If so, what
lubricant should be used? If not, what do the screw do?
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC
"It is better to remain silent and be thought a fool
than to speak, and remove all doubt"
From Donald Shields <dons300 at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 08 Jun 2000 14:15:58 -0400
Subject: Ooops-I may have waited too long...
In my mid-thirties I bought a new '67 BJ8 and drove it for years
with a great, silly smile on my face.Recently I unearthed it in my
garage and decided to get ready to give it to my adult daughter. On
second thought, I'd like to ride around in it again. Does anyone know
of any good, reliable shops that do Healey work in the Phila.,Pa./ south
Jersey area??
I'd also be happy to hear from folks in the neighborhood, off
list, who are working on their Healeys. I think I have a large job
ahead of me- not concours; just want to get the car safe and driveable.
Sorry to beg on the list. Maybe I'll have something good to add
anon.
Don S-Palmyra NJ
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2000 11:05:55 -0700
Subject: Re: Its All In The Timing...
"Obviously the triggering was happening in a different part of the rotation"
that was one of my concerns, thus the questions for the list, thanks Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2000 10:40 AM
Subject: Re: Its All In The Timing...
>
> At 09:05 AM 6/8/00 , you wrote:
>
> >I have some questions regarding timing on a 61 BT7 tricarb. I am
pondering
> >going to an electronic ignition and wondering about the timing. When I
time
> >the vehicle now I do it static. The manual states 10 deg BTDC (which is
> >approx. 5/8" on the flywheel) for static timing and the points set to
just
> >opening. If I change to an electronic ignition I will have to time the
> >vehicle via strobe...correct? I have found in a manual...to time via
strobe,
> >setting should be 15 deg. when running at 600 rpm and vacuum advance
> >removed? I actually checked the timing with an advance timing light set
at
> >15 deg. and it seems to check out when I manage to get the revs down to
600.
> >I wanted to see how close these settings are before pulling everything
> >apart, the old reference thingy. Comments, hints, suggestions....Thanks,
> >Neil
> --------------------
> Don't know which one you're going to use, but when I put in my Pertronix,
I
> had to turn the distributor a ton, clockwise I believe, from where it was
> set with the points. Obviously the triggering was happening in a different
> part of the rotation. Anyway, since you can't do a static test, just
> thought I'd warn you that if it cranks and coughs or doesn't even spit,
try
> turning the dist. Be careful though, I snapped the vacuum line at the
> bellows the first time!
>
> bk
>
From ccruz at tribune.com
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2000 13:29:00 -0500
Subject: California Healey Week
<< California Healey Week starts today thru Sun. >>
No wonder they say life is better in California! Look how short the
weeks are! (ducking, grinning & wishing)
With a big Hi-5 wave...
Carlos Cruz
From John Trifari <john4 at home.com>
Date: Wed, 07 Jun 2000 23:51:45 -0700
Subject: news from Healey intenrational 2002
Contact: John Trifari
OpenRoads 2002
408-541-9608
408-541-9320 FAX
john4@home,net
john@jtpr-inc.com
Honored Guest List for 2002 International Meet at Lake Tahoe continues
to grow
Family members and key contributors to success and popularity of marque
to attend 50th anniversary of first Austin-Healey
SUNNYVALE CA (June 8, 2000) -- Brian ("Bic") Healey and John Healey,
sons of Donald M. Healey, and Gerry Coker, designer of the 100, will
head a stellar list of Honored Guests celebrating the 50th anniversary
of the first Austin-Healey at the Healey International--OpenRoads 2002
Healey International Meeting in 2002.
The International Meeting will be held at the Horizon Inn and Casino,
Stateline NV (South Shore of Lake Tahoe) and will run from Sunday June
23, 2002 to Friday, June 28.
Carrol Shelby who drove one of the first pre-production 100S racers
during the 1954 Pan American Road Race in Mexico and who was long
involved with Donald M. Healey, will also attend the five-day affair.
Invitations have been extended to other Healey family members and to key
individuals associated with Big Healeys, Sprites and Jensen-Healeys. Bic
will be accompanied by his wife, Mary; John by his wife, Joy; Gerry by
his wife, Marion.
"OpenRoads 2002 will not only be the largest gathering of Healey owners
and enthusiasts," said Loren Cross, chairman of the International
Organizing Committee, "but it is shaping up to biggest reunion yet of
Healey family members and others who made this marque what it is
today." The OpenRoads 2002 meeting will be the culmination of a
year-long festival honoring the first Austin-Healey, he added. "The
Lake Tahoe area and the Sierras are the perfect places to cap off this
celebration. They're the perfect places to drive your Healey, and we've
made arrangements for the perfect Healey vacation," Cross said.
The OpenRoads 2002 Healey International will celebrate the popularity
and longevity of all Austin-Healeys, Austin-Healey Sprites and
Jensen-Healeys, as well as all Healey cars built prior to 1952. A
week-long schedule of events, including rallies, tours, autocross
competition, technical sessions, concours judging and car shows is
planned, and honored guests from the Healey family and others associated
with the marque will attend. Also attending will be owners of restored
Healey boats.
The Organizing Committee has contracted with the Horizon for rooms at
the rate $89 per night per couple (not including tax). The rate
increases to $99 for a third person in the room; $109 for four people.
Children under 12 are free. All registrations must be done through the
Organizing Committee. 400 rooms will be available at the Horizon, and
the Committee is looking into overflow alternatives.
For real-time updates about Healey International--OpenRoads 2002, and
information on Lake Tahoe and the Horizon, go to our web site at
www.healey2002.com. Information on the site can also be obtained
through the Clubs' monthly newsletter, Golden Gate Healey Happenings.
On-line registration will also be handled through the web site starting
later this year. See the web site for information on registration by
mail.
###
From "Ron Schonscheck" <schonny at y2consult.com>
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2000 13:02:51 -0600
Subject: Re: Right-angle drive lubrication?
Might not be the list but rather your ISP. Many times this is the issue
rather than the list.
----- Original Message -----
From: Scheuble, Fred J., HiServ/NA <fjscheuble@hiserv-na.com>
To: 'Steve Byers' <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2000 12:08 PM
Subject: RE: Right-angle drive lubrication?
>
> probably the "love healeys virus"
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Steve Byers [mailto:byers@cconnect.net]
> Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2000 1:17 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Fw: Right-angle drive lubrication?
>
>
>
> Weird --
> My SENT mail has the text in it, but what showed up on the list had no
text
> at all??
> I wrote:
>
> ____________________
>
> Hello Healeyphiles!
>
> I am about to install a new right-angle drive for the speedo cable in my
> BJ8. There is a small screw in it. Is this for lubrication? If so, what
> lubricant should be used? If not, what do the screw do?
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> Havelock, NC
> "It is better to remain silent and be thought a fool
> than to speak, and remove all doubt"
>
>
>
>
From Herman Farrer <herman at hfphoto.com>
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2000 15:23:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Fw: Right-angle drive lubrication?
>
>I am about to install a new right-angle drive for the speedo cable in my
>BJ8. There is a small screw in it. Is this for lubrication? If so, what
>lubricant should be used?
Yes, remove the screw and add a few drops of relatively light-weight
oil such as SAE 20. Do not over oil the unit.
Herman
--
Capital Area Austin Healey Club
http://lightning.prohosting.com/~caahc
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 08 Jun 2000 15:48:08 -0400
Subject: Re: Rear hub o-ring woes
"Merchant, Adnan" wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I don't recall having much trouble with the o-rings but try coating them
> lightly with grease while installing. My rings came from VB so perhaps
> they have a different fit.
>
> It's been a while so I can't be certain about this but it may be possible to
> slip the o-ring onto the spacer first as a sub-assembly.
>
> The paper gasket stays put if you apply a film of Hylomar. Don't forget to
> bend the locktabs on the washers....
>
> Adnan
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ross Leonard [mailto:rkleonard@sympatico.ca]
> Sent: Wednesday, June 07, 2000 6:42 PM
> To: 'Healey List'
> Subject: Rear hub o-ring woes
>
> Good Day,
>
> Just finished rebuilding my rear axle/differential, and am putting the
> pieces back together. Can anyone give me a tip on how to keep the o-ring on
> the wire wheel hub while sliding the axle shaft in place (and the spacer,
> and the paper gasket)? Should the o-ring be large enough to lay in the
> groove without having to hold it down? Mine keeps popping out of the
> groove...it seems that the diameter of the ring is much smaller than that on
> the hub. I tried soaking it in hot water for a few minutes to see if it
> would expand, but no luck. BTW....these o-rings were purchased from Moss, so
> I assume they are the correct size.
>
> Any help would be greatly appreciated....I'd love to have the rear axle back
> together and off my list of to-do's!
>
> Ross Leonard
> '64 BJ8
Ross,
You may have the wrong size of O ring.
It should be a loose fir over something 3 1/4" in diameter
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2000 16:14:49 EDT
Subject: Fwd: 50's Cars,Harley-D and Doo Wop Music Day
--part1_a6.56732b1.267158b9_boundary
--part1_a6.56732b1.267158b9_boundary
Content-Disposition: inline
Return-path: <JSoderling@aol.com>
From: JSoderling@aol.com
Full-name: JSoderling
Message-ID: <44.45a0b13.26707a98@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2000 00:27:04 EDT
Subject: 50's Cars,Harley-D and Doo Wop Music Day
To: healeys@autox.team.net
MIME-Version: 1.0
X-Mailer: AOL 5.0 for Windows sub 104
Today was tops! Had a 130 mile drive in my 100-Six "Erika" out to British
Car Specialists in Stockton to pick up a couple of parts? On the way back had
a couple of Buds in a funky bar on the Delta with a Harley-Davidson rider who
use to own and race a AH 100 M in the 70's. Then this evening, listened to
two hours of 50's Doo Wop music on KQED. Talk about a time-warp day!
Did anyone else catch the Doo Wop 50's Music Show on several PBS stations
this week? Great songs like Earth Angel, Duke of Earl, 16 Candles, Only You a
nd Blue Moon. Great performers like the Platters, Cleftones, Marcels, Jive
Five and Speedo And The Cadillacs. Wow!
They had three or so 1950s era cars on stage as backdrop. Looked like an
early 50's Mercury coup, a mid 50's Corvett convertible, and a Chevy or Cad
convertible. It was a little hard to get a full view of the cars. Did any
one else figure out what make, model and year the cars were?
Anyway, a totally 50's time-warp day for me!!!
John
100-Six Erika the Red
--part1_a6.56732b1.267158b9_boundary--
From John Trifari <john4 at home.com>
Date: Thu, 08 Jun 2000 01:27:31 -0700
Subject: test
ewq;owqueowueqopwueqpwuep powupouep pwqwujopuie
From BN4L at aol.com
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2000 16:54:57 EDT
Subject: Re: Its All In The Timing...
In a message dated 6/8/2000 11:36:26 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
bkatz@handsonresearch.com writes:
<< I have some questions regarding timing on a 61 BT7 tricarb. I am pondering
>going to an electronic ignition and wondering about the timing. When I time
>the vehicle now I do it static. The manual states 10 deg BTDC (which is
>approx. 5/8" on the flywheel) for static timing and the points set to just
>opening. If I change to an electronic ignition I will have to time the
>vehicle via strobe...correct? I have found in a manual...to time via strobe,
>setting should be 15 deg. when running at 600 rpm and vacuum advance
>removed? I actually checked the timing with an advance timing light set at
>15 deg. and it seems to check out when I manage to get the revs down to 600.
>I wanted to see how close these settings are before pulling everything
>apart, the old reference thingy. Comments, hints, suggestions....Thanks,
>Neil
--- >>
Neil, I have electronic Allison (Crane Cams) ignition in my 100-6. This is
the way I time my car:
Loosen the distributor so that you can move it by hand. Drive the car under
load. Stop and advance the timing a bit and drive again. Keep doing this
until you get a mild valve ping on acceleration or pulling a hill. Stop and
retard the timing a bit until the pinging goes away. Then tighten down the
distributor. This may not be the correct way, but my car sure does run good!
Art Hill
Escondido, CA
'58 100-6 BN4 A-H "Mille Miglia"
'66 TR6R Triumph Tiger
'96 R1100RT BMW
From csturnbull at cwcom.net (Clive Turnbull)
Date: 8 Jun 00 22:45
Subject: 300 Mk2 Seat Belt Anchorage
I am working on a Mk2 3000 Chassis Prefix HBJ7L and I am led to believe
that there should be seat belt anchorage points already in the vehicle
as standard (1962).There does not seem to be any and I can only conclude
that there have been new floor panels fitted.This would not account for
there not being anchorage points on the centre tunnel so I don't really
know.Can anyone help me with the correct drilling point measurements or
approx.UK car. Tia Clive
--
Cheshire(Cat County)
UK
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Thu, 08 Jun 2000 15:40:36 -0700
Subject: Re: Its All In The Timing...
Neil,
I have a copy of a BMC technical service bulletin dated September 1,
1964
-----------------
Re: Ignition Timing for Austin Healey 3000 Mark I, II and III.
We have received many requests asking for the actual crankshaft pulley
measurements necessary for adjusting and checking the ignition timing.
We would like to advise you that the corresponding distance from the
T.D.C marking on the crankshaft pulley is as follows:
5 degrees - 17/64" (.265625 or 6.747 mm)
10 degrees - 17/32" (.53125 or 13.494 mm)
12 degrees - 21/32" (.625 or 15.875 mm)
------------------
They did not list 15 degrees but at .053125" per degree it comes out to:
15 degrees - 51/64" (.796875 or 20.241 mm)
Don't know if this helps you but thought I'd pass the info on.
Cheers,
John Loftus
Neil Trelenberg wrote:
>
> I have some questions regarding timing on a 61 BT7 tricarb. I am pondering
> going to an electronic ignition and wondering about the timing. When I time
> the vehicle now I do it static. The manual states 10 deg BTDC (which is
> approx. 5/8" on the flywheel) for static timing and the points set to just
> opening. If I change to an electronic ignition I will have to time the
> vehicle via strobe...correct? I have found in a manual...to time via strobe,
> setting should be 15 deg. when running at 600 rpm and vacuum advance
> removed? I actually checked the timing with an advance timing light set at
> 15 deg. and it seems to check out when I manage to get the revs down to 600.
> I wanted to see how close these settings are before pulling everything
> apart, the old reference thingy. Comments, hints, suggestions....Thanks,
> Neil
From skip saunders <tfs at mitre.org>
Date: Thu, 08 Jun 2000 19:18:10 -0400
Subject: Re: Radar guns and Assholism
Excellent response... the only question that remained unanswered was
about glass... Radar works by reflecting off of a conducting surface.
It doesn't "see" the glass, but it does see things like chrome, steel,
aluminum etc.
The best reflection takes place if the metal is flat and perfectly
aligned at 90 degrees to the angle of incidence from the radar. Since
car metal is rounded, the actual piece of metal that reflects the radar
signal back is relatively small... (incidently the reason the "stealth"
fighters have so few curved surfaces was that the flat pieces would
reflect whatever signal hits them according to snells law.... which
means for metal that the angle of incidence equals the angle of
reflectance... unless the angle of incidence is equal to 90 degrees, the
angle of reflectance will send the reflected radar signal off into the
hinterlands and the radar site won't see the plane. Of course if the
plane is perfectly lined up for the radar sight, then there is a big BIG
signal... so they add radar absorption material to the surface and that
reduces the reflected signal even for the 90 degree case... Now, because
planes move fast, and can change angle with respect to anything on the
ground at a very fast rate, the radar might see "one" short return, but
it won't get a steady return... even in the 90 degree case... so the
airplane seems "invisible"...)
There is one other interesting configuration of metal. That is the so
called "corner reflector"... it is just a place where three pieces of
metal come together to form an inside corner (like of a box)... As you
can check out with mirrors, this particular configuration provides a
special case where snells law ensures that no matter what the angle of
incidence into the corner, the reflected energy will go right back at
you.... If you were to look at a corner reflector mirror, you'd always
see your eyeball reflected in the corner. This is a useful
configuration for lots of things... NASA used corner reflectors on the
moon when they wanted to set up measuring devices to check the exact
distance from the earth to moon....
So, if your car has any place where pieces of metal form an inside
corner, then you'll provide a very strong reflected radar signal... It
so happens that the grid pattern on the Healey smiley face isn't a
perfect corner reflector but it is close.
So, while the earlier answer correctly pointed out that the cop's radar
will preferentially detect the bigger radar return signal... you might
be surprised to find that occasionally the LBC can "out reflect" a
truck... Hence making your radar profile be the one the officer sees....
Not many cops know this, because it appears counterintuitive to see a
small car out-reflect a big car; but it can happen, given the right
angle configuration.
There are lots of other subtleties... such as the so called radar
absorption paint that helps reduce the reflected energy.... It doesn't
work universally. It is tuned to the frequency spectrum of specific
radars... So, while the stealth fighter is somewhat hard to detect....
It is harder in some frequency ranges than in others.... This means that
while you might be able to invent radar absorption paint that works
against X band or Ku band radars, ... you won't find one that works well
against both...because those are bands in two different parts of the
frequency spectrum.
At any rate, the question had to do with glass curvature... Answer:
glass shape doesn't make any difference.
When I'm not being a geek, you can find me with my TIG welder working on
the frame of my BJ7, or tooling around the countryside in my BJ8...
Happy Healeying...
-Skip-
Gold1434@aol.com wrote:
>
> <<My question to all you traffic experts is, Does the shape of the old
> flat
> glass windshields, or the presence of extra chrome or other factors
> relative to older cars have any known effect on radar readings? I'm aware of
> radio/microwave/etc interference. Any studies on radio interference from old
> ignition systems? No other traffic around, flat,level,clear conditions>>
>
> I told myself I wasn't going to respond to this as I knew the comments
> following the original post (and a legitimate one) would undoubtedly turn
> into a cop bashing thread. I am rather impressed that it has not and
> everyone on the list so far has been mature about this question.
> Radar guns are not infallible. I'll try to paint a picture for you. The
> rays from a radar work similarly to a flashlight beam. The farther away the
> beam travels, the wider it gets. Along those same lines, if your beam of
> light hits two objects, one small and one large, and both of these objects
> are at equal distance from the source, you will naturally end up with more
> light on the larger object, or target. This is the same principle the gun
> operates. If your vehicle is beside a Semi or other large vehicle it will
> pick up the speed of the larger vehicle before any LBC. The police are
> trained in this method and have basically a pick of the litter when it comes
> to traffic infractions. Most of them will leave an infraction alone if there
> is a question. Violations are quite abundant out there as most of us know.
> Since you said you were on a long stretch of road by yourself and he got you
> on moving radar your options are limited. Radars are required to be
> certified every certain number of months and the police officer is required
> to bring this calibration to court with him. The unit also needs to be
> manually calibrated before and after the tour of duty. These are the facts
> sir. Trust me. And now to get on my soap box.........
> It is not mandatory for the police officer to show you the readout on the
> unit. He doesn't have to even lock the speed in. As long as the speed is
> displayed on his readout, even for a second, its enough to warrant a summons.
> Expert testimony will only drain your pocket for something trivial.
> Forget it.
>
> Was driving back from getting my MR2 serviced and punched it to see if the
> vibration I was feeling was cured. This just happened to be in a school zone
> about 500 yards from my house.
>
> Oh boy. I'll leave this one alone.
>
> The accessories on your car have nothing to do with the attraction/accuracy
> of the beam. Unless it makes it bigger than the vehicle you are beside.
>
> And the assholism comment. Hmmm. Let me see, how many of you have had a four
> year old scream for help because they are trapped in a car because of
> someone's bad decision in another car. It may seem a waste of time and you
> may feel the officer had nothing better to do than write a summons, but I
> assure you it is a necessary evil. Too often a third party is injured for
> stupid decisions made in vehicles. Please don't hate the officers for doing
> their job. You made a decision and unfortunately got caught. No big deal.
> Don't get me wrong. There are places in your city to test drive your
> vehicle. Lock the brakes up, rabbit accelerations, and serving can be done
> on quiet country roads where no one can get hurt except yourself. This way
> if you do make a bad decision you are only endangering yourself and no one
> else.
>
> The problem is how to prove the cop is either lying or needs glasses?!
>
> This is where you need to focus your fight. You can't prove he needs glasses
> so your only hope to get a dismissal is to find a flaw in the officer's
> testimony, i.e., calibrations, venue, articulation etc. The officer may have
> made a mistake. Everyone does. I understand you were not driving
> recklessly. And if you were indeed driving the pace you say then my advice
> to you is if your driving record is bad, get a lawyer and see if you qualify
> for driving school. The fine will be dropped and no points added to your
> record at the completion of the school. Your out of pocket expenses is the
> lawyer and the school. Possibly a lot of money up front, but you win in the
> long run. Any lawyer that graduated can recommend Driver Improvement. Good
> luck.
> Sure is high up here on this soap box.......
>
> Steve Goldman
> Chesapeake, Va.
> 56 BN2 "The Beast"
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Thu, 08 Jun 2000 16:53:27 -0700
Subject: Re: Its All In The Timing...
Opps.. I made a mistake, should have read:
5 degrees - 17/64" (.265625 or 6.747 mm)
10 degrees - 17/32" (.53125 or 13.494 mm)
*12 degrees - 21/32" (.65625 or 16.669 mm)
15 degrees - 51/64" (.796875 or 20.241 mm)
*splitting hairs, but this is not quite accurate. BMC probably used
21/32 as the closest "large" fraction but the real number for 12 degrees
should be .6375 or 16.193 mm.
-John
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2000 18:59:21 -0500
Subject: RE: Chassis Painting - what primer to use?
Ryan,
Use a single-stage urethane like DCC on the chassis. Why go through the
extra expense and hassle of a base coat followed by a clear coat? Besides,
as Roger will tell you, a clear-coated chassis looks over-restored.
Believe me, by the time you are done applying two coats of DP primer, you
will be ready to forego the color coat entirely. That chassis takes a long
time to paint with decent coverage.
BTW, I used two coats of DP epoxy primer in two different colors so I could
ensure film build and two coats of DCC with medium hardener.
If the chassis is bead blasted, DO NOT use a pre-paint prep or etch primer.
The pits in the metal prevent proper neutralization of the acids in etch
primer and this can come back to haunt you later. A blasted surface is
near-ideal as is, particularly for something as good as DP.
$.02
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: Ledwith, Ryan S [mailto:ryan.s.ledwith@ssmb.com]
Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2000 6:18 AM
To: 'healeys'
Subject: Chassis Painting - what primer to use?
I've almost reached bottom: the chassis is stripped, welded, degreased and
ready for blasting. Let the reassembly begin!
I'm sure we've covered this before, but I was focusing on other things.
What is the property order for primers on the chassis? Do I spray a surface
prep before the primer, then the colorcoat? Does anyone use a color / clear
on the chassis, or can the color be sprayed without the clear?
I'm going to use PPG brand paint because they are local and paint is easy to
get there.
Thanks! btw, I wave to all cool cars, even if they aren't British :)
Ryan Ledwith
64 BJ7
Connecticut
From "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec at globalserve.net>
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2000 20:21:07 -0400
Subject: Re: Radar guns and Assholism
Absolutely fascinating and technically extremely well written. Can
you do one on building the H bomb?
Mike L.
60A,67E,59Bug
----- Original Message -----
From: skip saunders <tfs@mitre.org>
To: <Gold1434@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: June 8, 2000 7:18 PM
Subject: Re: Radar guns and Assholism
>
> Excellent response... the only question that remained unanswered
was
> about glass... Radar works by reflecting off of a conducting
surface.
> It doesn't "see" the glass, but it does see things like chrome,
steel,
> aluminum etc.
>
> The best reflection takes place if the metal is flat and
perfectly
> aligned at 90 degrees to the angle of incidence from the radar.
Since
> car metal is rounded, the actual piece of metal that reflects
the radar
> signal back is relatively small... (incidently the reason the
"stealth"
> fighters have so few curved surfaces was that the flat pieces
would
> reflect whatever signal hits them according to snells law....
which
> means for metal that the angle of incidence equals the angle of
> reflectance... unless the angle of incidence is equal to 90
degrees, the
> angle of reflectance will send the reflected radar signal off
into the
> hinterlands and the radar site won't see the plane. Of course
if the
> plane is perfectly lined up for the radar sight, then there is a
big BIG
> signal... so they add radar absorption material to the surface
and that
> reduces the reflected signal even for the 90 degree case... Now,
because
> planes move fast, and can change angle with respect to anything
on the
> ground at a very fast rate, the radar might see "one" short
return, but
> it won't get a steady return... even in the 90 degree case... so
the
> airplane seems "invisible"...)
>
> There is one other interesting configuration of metal. That is
the so
> called "corner reflector"... it is just a place where three
pieces of
> metal come together to form an inside corner (like of a box)...
As you
> can check out with mirrors, this particular configuration
provides a
> special case where snells law ensures that no matter what the
angle of
> incidence into the corner, the reflected energy will go right
back at
> you.... If you were to look at a corner reflector mirror, you'd
always
> see your eyeball reflected in the corner. This is a useful
> configuration for lots of things... NASA used corner reflectors
on the
> moon when they wanted to set up measuring devices to check the
exact
> distance from the earth to moon....
>
> So, if your car has any place where pieces of metal form an
inside
> corner, then you'll provide a very strong reflected radar
signal... It
> so happens that the grid pattern on the Healey smiley face isn't
a
> perfect corner reflector but it is close.
>
> So, while the earlier answer correctly pointed out that the
cop's radar
> will preferentially detect the bigger radar return signal... you
might
> be surprised to find that occasionally the LBC can "out reflect"
a
> truck... Hence making your radar profile be the one the officer
sees....
>
> Not many cops know this, because it appears counterintuitive to
see a
> small car out-reflect a big car; but it can happen, given the
right
> angle configuration.
>
> There are lots of other subtleties... such as the so called
radar
> absorption paint that helps reduce the reflected energy.... It
doesn't
> work universally. It is tuned to the frequency spectrum of
specific
> radars... So, while the stealth fighter is somewhat hard to
detect....
> It is harder in some frequency ranges than in others.... This
means that
> while you might be able to invent radar absorption paint that
works
> against X band or Ku band radars, ... you won't find one that
works well
> against both...because those are bands in two different parts of
the
> frequency spectrum.
>
> At any rate, the question had to do with glass curvature...
Answer:
> glass shape doesn't make any difference.
>
> When I'm not being a geek, you can find me with my TIG welder
working on
> the frame of my BJ7, or tooling around the countryside in my
BJ8...
>
> Happy Healeying...
> -Skip-
>
>
> Gold1434@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > <<My question to all you traffic experts is, Does the
shape of the old
> > flat
> > glass windshields, or the presence of extra chrome or other
factors
> > relative to older cars have any known effect on radar
readings? I'm aware of
> > radio/microwave/etc interference. Any studies on radio
interference from old
> > ignition systems? No other traffic around, flat,level,clear
conditions>>
> >
> > I told myself I wasn't going to respond to this as I knew the
comments
> > following the original post (and a legitimate one) would
undoubtedly turn
> > into a cop bashing thread. I am rather impressed that it has
not and
> > everyone on the list so far has been mature about this
question.
> > Radar guns are not infallible. I'll try to paint a
picture for you. The
> > rays from a radar work similarly to a flashlight beam. The
farther away the
> > beam travels, the wider it gets. Along those same lines, if
your beam of
> > light hits two objects, one small and one large, and both of
these objects
> > are at equal distance from the source, you will naturally end
up with more
> > light on the larger object, or target. This is the same
principle the gun
> > operates. If your vehicle is beside a Semi or other large
vehicle it will
> > pick up the speed of the larger vehicle before any LBC. The
police are
> > trained in this method and have basically a pick of the litter
when it comes
> > to traffic infractions. Most of them will leave an infraction
alone if there
> > is a question. Violations are quite abundant out there as
most of us know.
> > Since you said you were on a long stretch of road by yourself
and he got you
> > on moving radar your options are limited. Radars are required
to be
> > certified every certain number of months and the police
officer is required
> > to bring this calibration to court with him. The unit also
needs to be
> > manually calibrated before and after the tour of duty. These
are the facts
> > sir. Trust me. And now to get on my soap box.........
> > It is not mandatory for the police officer to show you the
readout on the
> > unit. He doesn't have to even lock the speed in. As long as
the speed is
> > displayed on his readout, even for a second, its enough to
warrant a summons.
> > Expert testimony will only drain your pocket for something
trivial.
> > Forget it.
> >
> > Was driving back from getting my MR2 serviced and punched it
to see if the
> > vibration I was feeling was cured. This just happened to be in
a school zone
> > about 500 yards from my house.
> >
> > Oh boy. I'll leave this one alone.
> >
> > The accessories on your car have nothing to do with the
attraction/accuracy
> > of the beam. Unless it makes it bigger than the vehicle you
are beside.
> >
> > And the assholism comment. Hmmm. Let me see, how many of you
have had a four
> > year old scream for help because they are trapped in a car
because of
> > someone's bad decision in another car. It may seem a waste of
time and you
> > may feel the officer had nothing better to do than write a
summons, but I
> > assure you it is a necessary evil. Too often a third party is
injured for
> > stupid decisions made in vehicles. Please don't hate the
officers for doing
> > their job. You made a decision and unfortunately got caught.
No big deal.
> > Don't get me wrong. There are places in your city to test
drive your
> > vehicle. Lock the brakes up, rabbit accelerations, and
serving can be done
> > on quiet country roads where no one can get hurt except
yourself. This way
> > if you do make a bad decision you are only endangering
yourself and no one
> > else.
> >
> > The problem is how to prove the cop is either lying or needs
glasses?!
> >
> > This is where you need to focus your fight. You can't prove
he needs glasses
> > so your only hope to get a dismissal is to find a flaw in the
officer's
> > testimony, i.e., calibrations, venue, articulation etc. The
officer may have
> > made a mistake. Everyone does. I understand you were not
driving
> > recklessly. And if you were indeed driving the pace you say
then my advice
> > to you is if your driving record is bad, get a lawyer and see
if you qualify
> > for driving school. The fine will be dropped and no points
added to your
> > record at the completion of the school. Your out of pocket
expenses is the
> > lawyer and the school. Possibly a lot of money up front, but
you win in the
> > long run. Any lawyer that graduated can recommend Driver
Improvement. Good
> > luck.
> > Sure is high up here on this soap box.......
> >
> > Steve Goldman
> > Chesapeake, Va.
> > 56 BN2 "The Beast"
>
>
>
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2000 20:20:46 EDT
Subject: Re: Its All In The Timing...
In a message dated 6/8/00 2:34:47 PM, BN4L@aol.com writes:
<< Drive the car under
load. Stop and advance the timing a bit and drive again. Keep doing this
until you get a mild valve ping on acceleration or pulling a hill. Stop and
retard the timing a bit until the pinging goes away. Then tighten down the
distributor. This may not be the correct way, but my car sure does run good!
>>
I have a friend who swears that he and his friends used to set the timing on
their hot rods that way, by taking the hood off -- if the car had a hood --
and having one person out on the fender adjusting the dizzy while the other
one drove at varying speeds up to sixty or seventy. Oh to be young and
immortal again.
Cheers
gary
From "John Sims" <J_L_Sims at email.msn.com>
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2000 17:26:37 -0700
Subject: Vintage Healey Ads
This afternoon at a local mall I came across an antique show. One booth had
about 30 vintage ads for Healeys. I bought three for the 100-6. Mine are the
inside front cover from Sports Cars Illustrated, August 1957, Page 33 from
Sports Car magazine (unknown date) and the inside front cover of the May,
1959 issue of Road and Track. They were EIGHT dollars each and in great
condition.
I looked through the others - about 50% BN1-2 and 50% various 3000 models,
many showing the cars original sales price.
They are offered for sale by Brass Eagle Enterprises, E-Mail address
richardr@involved.com or lyndar@involved.com fone number 503-257-6342.
The usual disclaimers apply.
PS some of the copy is great - such as "Build to run 'til the road wears
out." and "the sports car of Sportsmen"
John Sims, BN6
Las Vegas
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2000 16:15:30 EDT
Subject: Fwd: 50's Cars and Doo Wop Music Day
Hi,
1) Did anyone who saw the Doo Wop 50s show on PBS catch what make, model and
year of cars were used as stage props?
2) We all know what our favorite 50s car is. What are your favorite songs or
performers from the 50s.
From John Trifari <john4 at home.com>
Date: Thu, 08 Jun 2000 06:17:23 -0700
Subject: Club e-mail addresses
This is the fourth time I've sent this out, and nothing is posting--a
problem a number of other listers have reported. Sorry if you're
picking this up again. We need your help setting up an e-mail list for
the 2002 International in Tahoe. Does anyone have e-mail addresses for
the following:
Austin Healey Club Denmark
Austin Healey Club Luxembourg
Austin Healey Club (UK)--Northern Centre
Austin Healey Club (UK) Southern Counties Centre
Austin Healey Club (UK)--Southwestern Centre
Austin Healey Club of Hawaii (Is there a Hawaii club?)
Austin Healey Owners Club of Queensland
Austin-Healey Club of Kansas City
Austin-Healey Club of Norway
Bluewater/Sarnia Austin-Healey Club
Bonneville AHC
British Sprite Mike McGuire
Heartland Healey (Iowa) AHC
Ireland ??
Manitoba Austin-Healey Club
Nasty Boys Austin-Healey Club
Niagara Frontier Austin-Healey Club
Rocky Mountain Austin-Healey Club
Southern Australian Austin Healey Owners Club
Tidewater (Virginia) Austin-Healey Club
Wisconsin Austin-Healey Club
MAG--Roadster
MAG--Healey Driver International
Austin Healey Club Ltd (New Forest Centre)
Austin-Healey club of Columbia
Austin Healey Club Swiss
Austin-Healey Club of Sweden
Jensen-Healey homepage
Capital Area Austin-Healey Club
Flatwater Austin-Healey Club (Nebraska)
Sprite Drivers Club--Australia
My many thanks John Trifari
From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2000 21:14:28 EDT
Subject: Re: Radar guns and Assholism
In a message dated 6/8/00 6:48:51 PM Central Daylight Time, tfs@mitre.org
writes:
<< about glass... Radar works by reflecting off of a conducting surface.
It doesn't "see" the glass, but it does see things like chrome, steel,
aluminum etc.
>>
Radar is an electromagnetic wave just like visible light. So you are saying
that light does not reflect off of your glass? Strange since the actual
answer is that glass will reflect between 4 and 16 percent of the incident
waves at a constant frequency...like a laser or radar. Glass will appear to
reflect like a mirror at certain frequency combinations, but it is really
interference if I remember correctly. The percentage of an EM wave reflected
by glass is dictated by the angle of incidence and the thickness of the
glass(at the quantum mechanics level). So yes the radar will bounce off of
your windshield and may make it back to the radar gun. Damn, made me sound
like a geek again!
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
From Martin Filardi <filardi at uconect.net>
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2000 22:00:12 -0400
Subject: radar/tickets
The last ticket I got was for doing 81 in a 55. I was coming back from an Alfa
meet at the track in my Milano, all the glass was taped and I had a number on
the car. I was passing another car on a remote road. Boy did I get nailed. I
hired a great lawyer, and I made a great donation to the police charity. No
points, no ticket, no fine, it is the only way to go. It did slow me down. Most
cops aim at the front License Plate, it is metal and flat. I have a car that is
plastic, with no front plate. I have never gotten a ticket in it for some
reason. My 2 cents, Marty
From Rick Snover <rsnover at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Thu, 08 Jun 2000 19:35:16 -0700
Subject: Re: Club e-mail addresses
At 06:17 AM 6/8/2000 -0700, John Trifari wrote:
>...We need your help setting up an e-mail list for
>the 2002 International in Tahoe. Does anyone have e-mail addresses for
>the following:
>
>Capital Area Austin-Healey Club
See
<http://lightning.prohosting.com/~caahc/Club%20Info/Contact%20Us/contact%20us.html>
--
Rick Snover, San Diego, CA, USA <http://people.qualcomm.com/rsnover>
Editor, Healey Hearsay (AHC of SD) <http://www.sdhealey.org>
'59 Speedwell Sprite vintage racer, 3000 Mk II Tri-carb (BT7), in pieces
From Olin and Maile Kane <kanes at flash.net>
Date: Thu, 08 Jun 2000 21:26:43 -0600
Subject: Re: Its All In The Timing...
This is a very good way to time a car actually. My 1999 Honda uses this
method but via a computer and a knock sensor. You can hear it pinging
briefly as you accelerate from a stop.
>In a message dated 6/8/00 2:34:47 PM, BN4L@aol.com writes:
>
><< Drive the car under
>load. Stop and advance the timing a bit and drive again. Keep doing this
>until you get a mild valve ping on acceleration or pulling a hill. Stop and
>retard the timing a bit until the pinging goes away. Then tighten down the
>distributor. This may not be the correct way, but my car sure does run
good!
>>>
>
>I have a friend who swears that he and his friends used to set the timing on
>their hot rods that way, by taking the hood off -- if the car had a hood --
>and having one person out on the fender adjusting the dizzy while the other
>one drove at varying speeds up to sixty or seventy. Oh to be young and
>immortal again.
>
>Cheers
>gary
>
>
Olin Kane
BJ7
Albuquerque
http://www.flash.net/~kanes/BJ-7.jpg
From skip saunders <tfs at mitre.org>
Date: Thu, 08 Jun 2000 23:55:07 -0400
Subject: Re: Radar guns and Assholism
yes.... I know how to do that too... sorry...
Interesting that you should mention it... I actually met Edward Teller a
few years ago... He plays piano magnificently..... He played a concert
for me and a few others of us who were at an Air Force Scientific
Advisory Board meeting...
-Skip-
Michael Lupynec wrote:
>
> Absolutely fascinating and technically extremely well written. Can
> you do one on building the H bomb?
>
> Mike L.
> 60A,67E,59Bug
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: skip saunders <tfs@mitre.org>
> To: <Gold1434@aol.com>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: June 8, 2000 7:18 PM
> Subject: Re: Radar guns and Assholism
>
> >
> > Excellent response... the only question that remained unanswered
> was
> > about glass... Radar works by reflecting off of a conducting
> surface.
> > It doesn't "see" the glass, but it does see things like chrome,
> steel,
> > aluminum etc.
> >
> > The best reflection takes place if the metal is flat and
> perfectly
> > aligned at 90 degrees to the angle of incidence from the radar.
> Since
> > car metal is rounded, the actual piece of metal that reflects
> the radar
> > signal back is relatively small... (incidently the reason the
> "stealth"
> > fighters have so few curved surfaces was that the flat pieces
> would
> > reflect whatever signal hits them according to snells law....
> which
> > means for metal that the angle of incidence equals the angle of
> > reflectance... unless the angle of incidence is equal to 90
> degrees, the
> > angle of reflectance will send the reflected radar signal off
> into the
> > hinterlands and the radar site won't see the plane. Of course
> if the
> > plane is perfectly lined up for the radar sight, then there is a
> big BIG
> > signal... so they add radar absorption material to the surface
> and that
> > reduces the reflected signal even for the 90 degree case... Now,
> because
> > planes move fast, and can change angle with respect to anything
> on the
> > ground at a very fast rate, the radar might see "one" short
> return, but
> > it won't get a steady return... even in the 90 degree case... so
> the
> > airplane seems "invisible"...)
> >
> > There is one other interesting configuration of metal. That is
> the so
> > called "corner reflector"... it is just a place where three
> pieces of
> > metal come together to form an inside corner (like of a box)...
> As you
> > can check out with mirrors, this particular configuration
> provides a
> > special case where snells law ensures that no matter what the
> angle of
> > incidence into the corner, the reflected energy will go right
> back at
> > you.... If you were to look at a corner reflector mirror, you'd
> always
> > see your eyeball reflected in the corner. This is a useful
> > configuration for lots of things... NASA used corner reflectors
> on the
> > moon when they wanted to set up measuring devices to check the
> exact
> > distance from the earth to moon....
> >
> > So, if your car has any place where pieces of metal form an
> inside
> > corner, then you'll provide a very strong reflected radar
> signal... It
> > so happens that the grid pattern on the Healey smiley face isn't
> a
> > perfect corner reflector but it is close.
> >
> > So, while the earlier answer correctly pointed out that the
> cop's radar
> > will preferentially detect the bigger radar return signal... you
> might
> > be surprised to find that occasionally the LBC can "out reflect"
> a
> > truck... Hence making your radar profile be the one the officer
> sees....
> >
> > Not many cops know this, because it appears counterintuitive to
> see a
> > small car out-reflect a big car; but it can happen, given the
> right
> > angle configuration.
> >
> > There are lots of other subtleties... such as the so called
> radar
> > absorption paint that helps reduce the reflected energy.... It
> doesn't
> > work universally. It is tuned to the frequency spectrum of
> specific
> > radars... So, while the stealth fighter is somewhat hard to
> detect....
> > It is harder in some frequency ranges than in others.... This
> means that
> > while you might be able to invent radar absorption paint that
> works
> > against X band or Ku band radars, ... you won't find one that
> works well
> > against both...because those are bands in two different parts of
> the
> > frequency spectrum.
> >
> > At any rate, the question had to do with glass curvature...
> Answer:
> > glass shape doesn't make any difference.
> >
> > When I'm not being a geek, you can find me with my TIG welder
> working on
> > the frame of my BJ7, or tooling around the countryside in my
> BJ8...
> >
> > Happy Healeying...
> > -Skip-
> >
> >
> > Gold1434@aol.com wrote:
> > >
> > > <<My question to all you traffic experts is, Does the
> shape of the old
> > > flat
> > > glass windshields, or the presence of extra chrome or other
> factors
> > > relative to older cars have any known effect on radar
> readings? I'm aware of
> > > radio/microwave/etc interference. Any studies on radio
> interference from old
> > > ignition systems? No other traffic around, flat,level,clear
> conditions>>
> > >
> > > I told myself I wasn't going to respond to this as I knew the
> comments
> > > following the original post (and a legitimate one) would
> undoubtedly turn
> > > into a cop bashing thread. I am rather impressed that it has
> not and
> > > everyone on the list so far has been mature about this
> question.
> > > Radar guns are not infallible. I'll try to paint a
> picture for you. The
> > > rays from a radar work similarly to a flashlight beam. The
> farther away the
> > > beam travels, the wider it gets. Along those same lines, if
> your beam of
> > > light hits two objects, one small and one large, and both of
> these objects
> > > are at equal distance from the source, you will naturally end
> up with more
> > > light on the larger object, or target. This is the same
> principle the gun
> > > operates. If your vehicle is beside a Semi or other large
> vehicle it will
> > > pick up the speed of the larger vehicle before any LBC. The
> police are
> > > trained in this method and have basically a pick of the litter
> when it comes
> > > to traffic infractions. Most of them will leave an infraction
> alone if there
> > > is a question. Violations are quite abundant out there as
> most of us know.
> > > Since you said you were on a long stretch of road by yourself
> and he got you
> > > on moving radar your options are limited. Radars are required
> to be
> > > certified every certain number of months and the police
> officer is required
> > > to bring this calibration to court with him. The unit also
> needs to be
> > > manually calibrated before and after the tour of duty. These
> are the facts
> > > sir. Trust me. And now to get on my soap box.........
> > > It is not mandatory for the police officer to show you the
> readout on the
> > > unit. He doesn't have to even lock the speed in. As long as
> the speed is
> > > displayed on his readout, even for a second, its enough to
> warrant a summons.
> > > Expert testimony will only drain your pocket for something
> trivial.
> > > Forget it.
> > >
> > > Was driving back from getting my MR2 serviced and punched it
> to see if the
> > > vibration I was feeling was cured. This just happened to be in
> a school zone
> > > about 500 yards from my house.
> > >
> > > Oh boy. I'll leave this one alone.
> > >
> > > The accessories on your car have nothing to do with the
> attraction/accuracy
> > > of the beam. Unless it makes it bigger than the vehicle you
> are beside.
> > >
> > > And the assholism comment. Hmmm. Let me see, how many of you
> have had a four
> > > year old scream for help because they are trapped in a car
> because of
> > > someone's bad decision in another car. It may seem a waste of
> time and you
> > > may feel the officer had nothing better to do than write a
> summons, but I
> > > assure you it is a necessary evil. Too often a third party is
> injured for
> > > stupid decisions made in vehicles. Please don't hate the
> officers for doing
> > > their job. You made a decision and unfortunately got caught.
> No big deal.
> > > Don't get me wrong. There are places in your city to test
> drive your
> > > vehicle. Lock the brakes up, rabbit accelerations, and
> serving can be done
> > > on quiet country roads where no one can get hurt except
> yourself. This way
> > > if you do make a bad decision you are only endangering
> yourself and no one
> > > else.
> > >
> > > The problem is how to prove the cop is either lying or needs
> glasses?!
> > >
> > > This is where you need to focus your fight. You can't prove
> he needs glasses
> > > so your only hope to get a dismissal is to find a flaw in the
> officer's
> > > testimony, i.e., calibrations, venue, articulation etc. The
> officer may have
> > > made a mistake. Everyone does. I understand you were not
> driving
> > > recklessly. And if you were indeed driving the pace you say
> then my advice
> > > to you is if your driving record is bad, get a lawyer and see
> if you qualify
> > > for driving school. The fine will be dropped and no points
> added to your
> > > record at the completion of the school. Your out of pocket
> expenses is the
> > > lawyer and the school. Possibly a lot of money up front, but
> you win in the
> > > long run. Any lawyer that graduated can recommend Driver
> Improvement. Good
> > > luck.
> > > Sure is high up here on this soap box.......
> > >
> > > Steve Goldman
> > > Chesapeake, Va.
> > > 56 BN2 "The Beast"
> >
> >
> >
From skip saunders <tfs at mitre.org>
Date: Fri, 09 Jun 2000 00:21:14 -0400
Subject: Re: Radar guns and Assholism
You raise a fun point about light and other electromagnetic phenomena...
Radar is indeed an electromagnetic wave... but at different frequencies,
electromagnetic waves exhibit different behavior. In the case of
glass, the electromagnetic waves of the frequencies that we know as
light, the material we know as glass is transparent.... the energy goes
(mostly) right through it... and very little is reflected... The mirror
is really a piece of glass with a little metal (often aluminum which has
been vapor deposited upon the backside) as the reflective surface.
(When aluminum is 'fresh'... i.e. not exposed to air for very long, it
doesn't have that oxide layer that makes aluminum look greyish... and it
is highly reflective...... when it is vapor deposited against glass, the
aluminum that is pressed up tight (very tight...:-).. it is actually
bound at the molecular level to the glass) there is no room for oxygen
atoms to get to the aluminum and turn it grey... ergo you see a rather
silverish, shiny material which we know as the mirror...)... anyway, I'm
digressing.
Electromagnetic waves at differing frequencies are known to most of us
with different names... but they are all the same thing (i.e.
electromagnetic waves)... some of the names we know them are as radio
waves, heat, light, x-rays...etc.... and some of the reason we give them
different names is because they exhibit behavior which appears radically
different to us. Heat really seems a lot different to us than light,
but in fact they are rather closely related.
In the case of radar signals used for traffic radar (at X-band, Ku band,
and some Ka band) the frequencies are quite a long way separate from the
frequencies that are known as heat and light.... And, part of the radar
wave behaviors, is that they do interact with conducting materials... it
is primarily the conducting materials which allow radar energy to be
reflected.... In the case of glass, if there were some energy to be
reflected, there would need to be some conducting properties in the
glass that would react with the frequency of the radar signals... There
isn't, (except for perhaps some trace contaminants), so glass really is
pretty much transparent to radar signals...
It turns out that glass has molecules (mostly silicon and oxygen) that
are indeed "conductive" to certain very short wavelengths.. So there is
indeed some reflectance that takes place with glass..(at the wavelengths
that involve light). In fact, glass is quite opaque to some
electromagnetic frequencies for precisely the effect that you allude
to. Namely, the frequency of the incident radiation can be absorbed by
the glass material... And it is very transparent for other
electromagnetic frequencies....which include the radar frequencies.
So, your observation that indeed light will reflect off glass is
correct. Of course, I never said that light wouldn't reflect off of
glass. Those are words that you put into my mouth. And, I'm afraid
that your interpretation that if light reflects at 4 to 16 percent, then
radar would too... is mistaken. I guess it boils down to the fact that
not all electromagnetic waves are created equal... nor do they behave
equally.... While it is relatively save to shine a light at someone, it
is definitely not safe to shine an x-ray at someone... They're both
electromagnetic waves... but one has a lot more disruptive power
(x-rays) than the other...(Even this statement has to be qualified... a
really really powerful light could cause damage, while a very very mild
x-ray can be safe... so it isn't just a matter of the frequency of the
signal, it is also a matter of the amount of energy that is being
conveyed with the electromagnetic wave too...)
I'm glad that we both enjoy Healey's ... they are such wonderful
machines... aren't they?
-Skip-
Csooch1@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 6/8/00 6:48:51 PM Central Daylight Time, tfs@mitre.org
> writes:
>
> << about glass... Radar works by reflecting off of a conducting surface.
> It doesn't "see" the glass, but it does see things like chrome, steel,
> aluminum etc.
> >>
> Radar is an electromagnetic wave just like visible light. So you are saying
> that light does not reflect off of your glass? Strange since the actual
> answer is that glass will reflect between 4 and 16 percent of the incident
> waves at a constant frequency...like a laser or radar. Glass will appear to
> reflect like a mirror at certain frequency combinations, but it is really
> interference if I remember correctly. The percentage of an EM wave reflected
> by glass is dictated by the angle of incidence and the thickness of the
> glass(at the quantum mechanics level). So yes the radar will bounce off of
> your windshield and may make it back to the radar gun. Damn, made me sound
> like a geek again!
> Cheers,
> Chris
> BJ8
> XJ6
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Fri, 9 Jun 2000 00:46:26 EDT
Subject: Re: BJ8 Windshield Centre Bracket
The rubber nut is installed in a hole in the shroud and is there to hold down
the center of the windshield, we have these available new .
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>Br
itishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From "Brad Weldon" <brad at bradw.com>
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2000 21:46:19 -0700
Subject: RE: Club e-mail addresses
Found a few...
Brad
'55 bn1
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of John Trifari
Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2000 06:17 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Club e-mail addresses
This is the fourth time I've sent this out, and nothing is posting--a
problem a number of other listers have reported. Sorry if you're
picking this up again. We need your help setting up an e-mail list for
the 2002 International in Tahoe. Does anyone have e-mail addresses for
the following:
Austin Healey Club Denmark
Austin Healey Club Luxembourg
http://www.spider.lu/homepages/lof/healey.html
Austin Healey Club (UK)--Northern Centre
Austin Healey Club (UK) Southern Counties Centre
Austin Healey Club (UK)--Southwestern Centre
Austin Healey Club of Hawaii (Is there a Hawaii club?)
Austin Healey Owners Club of Queensland
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/4458/ ahccqld@geocities.com
Austin-Healey Club of Kansas City
Austin-Healey Club of Norway
Bluewater/Sarnia Austin-Healey Club
Bonneville AHC
British Sprite Mike McGuire
Heartland Healey (Iowa) AHC
Ireland ??
Manitoba Austin-Healey Club
Nasty Boys Austin-Healey Club
Niagara Frontier Austin-Healey Club
Rocky Mountain Austin-Healey Club
Southern Australian Austin Healey Owners Club
Tidewater (Virginia) Austin-Healey Club
Wisconsin Austin-Healey Club
MAG--Roadster
MAG--Healey Driver International
Austin Healey Club Ltd (New Forest Centre)
Austin-Healey club of Columbia
Austin Healey Club Swiss
Austin-Healey Club of Sweden
http://www.stupi.se/Rec/home_of_the_Healeys/ahcs.html
Jensen-Healey homepage
Capital Area Austin-Healey Club
http://lightning.prohosting.com/~caahc/
Flatwater Austin-Healey Club (Nebraska)
Sprite Drivers Club--Australia
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/4936/
My many thanks John Trifari
From "Don Gschwind" <DGSCHWIND at prodigy.net>
Date: Fri, 9 Jun 2000 01:19:47 -0400
Subject: Re: Right-angle drive lubrication?
Hi, Steve
I had the same dilemma on my BJ8, I wrote the list, but got no
response. The screw is for lubrication, but goodness knows how you
reach it after the tunnel is on. I filled the cavity in the box with
the speedo cable lub. as best I could before installing the fitting. I
imagine the cable lube would eventually migrate there in time, so it
should be adequate and the migrating fluid would probably would keep
the fitting supplied. My guess, hope it works!
DON
BJ8 Pandora
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Byers <byers@cconnect.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2000 1:17 PM
Subject: Fw: Right-angle drive lubrication?
>
> Weird --
> My SENT mail has the text in it, but what showed up on the list had
no text
> at all??
> I wrote:
>
> ____________________
>
> Hello Healeyphiles!
>
> I am about to install a new right-angle drive for the speedo cable
in my
> BJ8. There is a small screw in it. Is this for lubrication? If
so, what
> lubricant should be used? If not, what do the screw do?
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> Havelock, NC
> "It is better to remain silent and be thought a fool
> than to speak, and remove all doubt"
>
>
>
>
From "Anders Gustafson" <bugeye at telia.com>
Date: Fri, 9 Jun 2000 11:48:17 +0200
Subject: RE: Club e-mail addresses
Hi,
Austin Healey Club of Sweden has the following new URL: www.healeysweden.com
and the e-mail address is ahcs@telia.com
....and next saturday is club's 30'th anniversary on the Island "Öland" on
the east coast of Sweden. We expect 50+ cars, nice weather, fun people,
barbeque, a lot of beer ....... (there will be pictures on the web after....
Anders Gustafson
bugeye@telia.com
'61 Bugeye
'67 Morris 850
*************************************************************
Austin Healey Club of Sweden
Anders Gustafson
Editor, Club Magazine - The Enthusiast
Phone +46-8-7493113, +46-70-5641432 (Mobile)
e-mail: ahcs@telia.com
www.healeysweden.com
Club Address
c/o Berger, Bandyvägen 35
S-129 49 HÄGERSTEN, SWEDEN
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Brad Weldon
Sent: den 9 juni 2000 06:46
To: 'John Trifari'; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Club e-mail addresses
Found a few...
Brad
'55 bn1
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of John Trifari
Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2000 06:17 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Club e-mail addresses
This is the fourth time I've sent this out, and nothing is posting--a
problem a number of other listers have reported. Sorry if you're
picking this up again. We need your help setting up an e-mail list for
the 2002 International in Tahoe. Does anyone have e-mail addresses for
the following:
Austin Healey Club Denmark
Austin Healey Club Luxembourg
http://www.spider.lu/homepages/lof/healey.html
Austin Healey Club (UK)--Northern Centre
Austin Healey Club (UK) Southern Counties Centre
Austin Healey Club (UK)--Southwestern Centre
Austin Healey Club of Hawaii (Is there a Hawaii club?)
Austin Healey Owners Club of Queensland
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/4458/ ahccqld@geocities.com
Austin-Healey Club of Kansas City
Austin-Healey Club of Norway
Bluewater/Sarnia Austin-Healey Club
Bonneville AHC
British Sprite Mike McGuire
Heartland Healey (Iowa) AHC
Ireland ??
Manitoba Austin-Healey Club
Nasty Boys Austin-Healey Club
Niagara Frontier Austin-Healey Club
Rocky Mountain Austin-Healey Club
Southern Australian Austin Healey Owners Club
Tidewater (Virginia) Austin-Healey Club
Wisconsin Austin-Healey Club
MAG--Roadster
MAG--Healey Driver International
Austin Healey Club Ltd (New Forest Centre)
Austin-Healey club of Columbia
Austin Healey Club Swiss
Austin-Healey Club of Sweden
http://www.stupi.se/Rec/home_of_the_Healeys/ahcs.html
Jensen-Healey homepage
Capital Area Austin-Healey Club
http://lightning.prohosting.com/~caahc/
Flatwater Austin-Healey Club (Nebraska)
Sprite Drivers Club--Australia
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/4936/
My many thanks John Trifari
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Fri, 9 Jun 2000 05:33:47 -0400
Subject: Songs of the Fifties:
I don't know who the recording artists were, but one of my memories of
the fifties right before graduation from high school (correctly stated, by
the way. ) was Shaboom.
Another was called "Almost Good", an instrumental by the guy that eventually
became the creator of the "chipmunk" songs.
This bit of nostalgia brought to you by:
Don
BN7
From "Ross Leonard" <rkleonard at sympatico.ca>
Date: Fri, 9 Jun 2000 07:58:41 -0400
Subject: O-Ring Woes - Thanks!
Lesson learned......I received the wrong size from Moss. Sigh.
Thanks for everyone's help. The axle is now back together and off to
storage.
Ross.
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at connect.comdek.net.au>
Date: Fri, 9 Jun 2000 20:26:39 +0800
Subject: Re: 300 Mk2 Seat Belt Anchorage seatbelt2.jpg [28/28]
xElED5/1YNLH6c+wc5p2pMcXcQJui1SQaup7TiyNqSKeY8IrSZFAj6yriUeBEi2gvq47izrc5stN
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------=_NextPart_000_0013_01BFD251.0466E7A0--
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Fri, 9 Jun 2000 07:28:27 -0600
Subject: Re: Radar guns and Assholism
Since most of us place our radar detectors inside the car, behind the glass,
and they seem to work adequately, I think it's safe to assume that the glass
is at least semi trans-transparent to the radar waves... but, alas, I had no
detector in the Healey on that fateful Sunday morn.
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "skip saunders" <tfs@mitre.org>
To: <Csooch1@aol.com>
Cc: <Gold1434@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2000 10:21 PM
Subject: Re: Radar guns and Assholism
>
> You raise a fun point about light and other electromagnetic phenomena...
>
> Radar is indeed an electromagnetic wave... but at different frequencies,
> electromagnetic waves exhibit different behavior. In the case of
> glass, the electromagnetic waves of the frequencies that we know as
> light, the material we know as glass is transparent.... the energy goes
> (mostly) right through it... and very little is reflected... The mirror
> is really a piece of glass with a little metal (often aluminum which has
> been vapor deposited upon the backside) as the reflective surface.
> (When aluminum is 'fresh'... i.e. not exposed to air for very long, it
> doesn't have that oxide layer that makes aluminum look greyish... and it
> is highly reflective...... when it is vapor deposited against glass, the
> aluminum that is pressed up tight (very tight...:-).. it is actually
> bound at the molecular level to the glass) there is no room for oxygen
> atoms to get to the aluminum and turn it grey... ergo you see a rather
> silverish, shiny material which we know as the mirror...)... anyway, I'm
> digressing.
>
> Electromagnetic waves at differing frequencies are known to most of us
> with different names... but they are all the same thing (i.e.
> electromagnetic waves)... some of the names we know them are as radio
> waves, heat, light, x-rays...etc.... and some of the reason we give them
> different names is because they exhibit behavior which appears radically
> different to us. Heat really seems a lot different to us than light,
> but in fact they are rather closely related.
>
> In the case of radar signals used for traffic radar (at X-band, Ku band,
> and some Ka band) the frequencies are quite a long way separate from the
> frequencies that are known as heat and light.... And, part of the radar
> wave behaviors, is that they do interact with conducting materials... it
> is primarily the conducting materials which allow radar energy to be
> reflected.... In the case of glass, if there were some energy to be
> reflected, there would need to be some conducting properties in the
> glass that would react with the frequency of the radar signals... There
> isn't, (except for perhaps some trace contaminants), so glass really is
> pretty much transparent to radar signals...
>
> It turns out that glass has molecules (mostly silicon and oxygen) that
> are indeed "conductive" to certain very short wavelengths.. So there is
> indeed some reflectance that takes place with glass..(at the wavelengths
> that involve light). In fact, glass is quite opaque to some
> electromagnetic frequencies for precisely the effect that you allude
> to. Namely, the frequency of the incident radiation can be absorbed by
> the glass material... And it is very transparent for other
> electromagnetic frequencies....which include the radar frequencies.
>
> So, your observation that indeed light will reflect off glass is
> correct. Of course, I never said that light wouldn't reflect off of
> glass. Those are words that you put into my mouth. And, I'm afraid
> that your interpretation that if light reflects at 4 to 16 percent, then
> radar would too... is mistaken. I guess it boils down to the fact that
> not all electromagnetic waves are created equal... nor do they behave
> equally.... While it is relatively save to shine a light at someone, it
> is definitely not safe to shine an x-ray at someone... They're both
> electromagnetic waves... but one has a lot more disruptive power
> (x-rays) than the other...(Even this statement has to be qualified... a
> really really powerful light could cause damage, while a very very mild
> x-ray can be safe... so it isn't just a matter of the frequency of the
> signal, it is also a matter of the amount of energy that is being
> conveyed with the electromagnetic wave too...)
>
> I'm glad that we both enjoy Healey's ... they are such wonderful
> machines... aren't they?
>
> -Skip-
>
>
>
>
>
> Csooch1@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > In a message dated 6/8/00 6:48:51 PM Central Daylight Time,
tfs@mitre.org
> > writes:
> >
> > << about glass... Radar works by reflecting off of a conducting surface.
> > It doesn't "see" the glass, but it does see things like chrome, steel,
> > aluminum etc.
> > >>
> > Radar is an electromagnetic wave just like visible light. So you are
saying
> > that light does not reflect off of your glass? Strange since the actual
> > answer is that glass will reflect between 4 and 16 percent of the
incident
> > waves at a constant frequency...like a laser or radar. Glass will
appear to
> > reflect like a mirror at certain frequency combinations, but it is
really
> > interference if I remember correctly. The percentage of an EM wave
reflected
> > by glass is dictated by the angle of incidence and the thickness of the
> > glass(at the quantum mechanics level). So yes the radar will bounce off
of
> > your windshield and may make it back to the radar gun. Damn, made me
sound
> > like a geek again!
> > Cheers,
> > Chris
> > BJ8
> > XJ6
>
>
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 9 Jun 2000 08:53:44 +0100
Subject: Re: Rear hub o-ring woes
Adnan and Ross
Six cylinder cars are not normally my scene but I can comment that I
have three types of "BN2 on" rear hubs in my stock. The early ones have
no groove for and "O" ring. What I believe to be the last versions have
a full "two sided" groove.
However I have another type where to groove for the "O" ring is nearer
to the centre of the hub and is in fact only "one sided". The inner side
of the ring when fitted is not supported.
One would assume therefore that there are two sizes of "O" ring and I
doubt if the smaller one will fit into the "two sided" groove version.
>Hi,
>
>I don't recall having much trouble with the o-rings but try coating them
>lightly with grease while installing. My rings came from VB so perhaps
>they have a different fit.
>
>It's been a while so I can't be certain about this but it may be possible to
>slip the o-ring onto the spacer first as a sub-assembly.
>
>The paper gasket stays put if you apply a film of Hylomar. Don't forget to
>bend the locktabs on the washers....
>
>Adnan
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Ross Leonard [mailto:rkleonard@sympatico.ca]
>Sent: Wednesday, June 07, 2000 6:42 PM
>To: 'Healey List'
>Subject: Rear hub o-ring woes
>
>Good Day,
>
>Just finished rebuilding my rear axle/differential, and am putting the
>pieces back together. Can anyone give me a tip on how to keep the o-ring on
>the wire wheel hub while sliding the axle shaft in place (and the spacer,
>and the paper gasket)? Should the o-ring be large enough to lay in the
>groove without having to hold it down? Mine keeps popping out of the
>groove...it seems that the diameter of the ring is much smaller than that on
>the hub. I tried soaking it in hot water for a few minutes to see if it
>would expand, but no luck. BTW....these o-rings were purchased from Moss, so
>I assume they are the correct size.
>
>Any help would be greatly appreciated....I'd love to have the rear axle back
>together and off my list of to-do's!
>
>Ross Leonard
>'64 BJ8
--
John Harper
From "James Sailer" <sailer at srv.net>
Date: Fri, 9 Jun 2000 07:39:41 -0600
Subject: Subject: Re: Radar guns and Assholism
I agree Michael, fascinating... Thanks Skip.
Sorry to stray from the LBC...
Jim S.
66 BJ8 - with rebuilt motor going in (finially) tonight - and new wheels and
tires arriving from BWW today !!!!!!!!!!
<Absolutely fascinating and technically extremely well written. Can
<you do one on building the H bomb?
From "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec at globalserve.net>
Date: Fri, 9 Jun 2000 09:47:16 -0400
Subject: Re: Radar guns and Assholism
And yet they are conducting another huge study into the potential
ill effects of cell phones due to EMF (electromagnetic fields)
near your brain (extremely low energy levels, probably below
background noise). My view is that barely competent drivers with
one hand off the wheel and one eye off the road and their cranium
temporarily totally diverted will cost us an LBC or two. The
concern about transmission tower emissions has ebbed for now.
But there has never been a debate about the magnetic security
gates that we and our kids pass thru at store exits. This industry
started with microwaves (some still installed) and is now using RF
(radio frequency) and the largest player Sensormatic is using EMF.
In Europe they have Gauss exposure standards and Sensormatic had
to reduce the strength of their gate output (along with
performance). Here in North America no such standard exists.
Skip, when I did a due diligence on this industry, my client
resisted allowing me to put a Gauss meter on his gate, but the
theoretical calculations came out to about 5 to 10 Gauss near
source, if I recall correctly. Any cause for concern?
Mike L.
60A,67E,59Bug
----- Original Message -----
From: skip saunders <tfs@mitre.org>
To: <Csooch1@aol.com>
Cc: <Gold1434@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: June 9, 2000 12:21 AM
Subject: Re: Radar guns and Assholism
>
> You raise a fun point about light and other electromagnetic
phenomena...
>
> Radar is indeed an electromagnetic wave... but at different
frequencies,
> electromagnetic waves exhibit different behavior. In the case
of
> glass, the electromagnetic waves of the frequencies that we know
as
> light, the material we know as glass is transparent.... the
energy goes
> (mostly) right through it... and very little is reflected... The
mirror
> is really a piece of glass with a little metal (often aluminum
which has
> been vapor deposited upon the backside) as the reflective
surface.
> (When aluminum is 'fresh'... i.e. not exposed to air for very
long, it
> doesn't have that oxide layer that makes aluminum look
greyish... and it
> is highly reflective...... when it is vapor deposited against
glass, the
> aluminum that is pressed up tight (very tight...:-).. it is
actually
> bound at the molecular level to the glass) there is no room for
oxygen
> atoms to get to the aluminum and turn it grey... ergo you see a
rather
> silverish, shiny material which we know as the mirror...)...
anyway, I'm
> digressing.
>
> Electromagnetic waves at differing frequencies are known to most
of us
> with different names... but they are all the same thing (i.e.
> electromagnetic waves)... some of the names we know them are as
radio
> waves, heat, light, x-rays...etc.... and some of the reason we
give them
> different names is because they exhibit behavior which appears
radically
> different to us. Heat really seems a lot different to us than
light,
> but in fact they are rather closely related.
>
> In the case of radar signals used for traffic radar (at X-band,
Ku band,
> and some Ka band) the frequencies are quite a long way separate
from the
> frequencies that are known as heat and light.... And, part of
the radar
> wave behaviors, is that they do interact with conducting
materials... it
> is primarily the conducting materials which allow radar energy
to be
> reflected.... In the case of glass, if there were some energy
to be
> reflected, there would need to be some conducting properties in
the
> glass that would react with the frequency of the radar
signals... There
> isn't, (except for perhaps some trace contaminants), so glass
really is
> pretty much transparent to radar signals...
>
> It turns out that glass has molecules (mostly silicon and
oxygen) that
> are indeed "conductive" to certain very short wavelengths.. So
there is
> indeed some reflectance that takes place with glass..(at the
wavelengths
> that involve light). In fact, glass is quite opaque to some
> electromagnetic frequencies for precisely the effect that you
allude
> to. Namely, the frequency of the incident radiation can be
absorbed by
> the glass material... And it is very transparent for other
> electromagnetic frequencies....which include the radar
frequencies.
>
> So, your observation that indeed light will reflect off glass is
> correct. Of course, I never said that light wouldn't reflect off
of
> glass. Those are words that you put into my mouth. And, I'm
afraid
> that your interpretation that if light reflects at 4 to 16
percent, then
> radar would too... is mistaken. I guess it boils down to the
fact that
> not all electromagnetic waves are created equal... nor do they
behave
> equally.... While it is relatively save to shine a light at
someone, it
> is definitely not safe to shine an x-ray at someone... They're
both
> electromagnetic waves... but one has a lot more disruptive power
> (x-rays) than the other...(Even this statement has to be
qualified... a
> really really powerful light could cause damage, while a very
very mild
> x-ray can be safe... so it isn't just a matter of the frequency
of the
> signal, it is also a matter of the amount of energy that is
being
> conveyed with the electromagnetic wave too...)
>
> I'm glad that we both enjoy Healey's ... they are such wonderful
> machines... aren't they?
>
> -Skip-
>
>
>
>
>
> Csooch1@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > In a message dated 6/8/00 6:48:51 PM Central Daylight Time,
tfs@mitre.org
> > writes:
> >
> > << about glass... Radar works by reflecting off of a
conducting surface.
> > It doesn't "see" the glass, but it does see things like
chrome, steel,
> > aluminum etc.
> > >>
> > Radar is an electromagnetic wave just like visible light. So
you are saying
> > that light does not reflect off of your glass? Strange since
the actual
> > answer is that glass will reflect between 4 and 16 percent of
the incident
> > waves at a constant frequency...like a laser or radar. Glass
will appear to
> > reflect like a mirror at certain frequency combinations, but
it is really
> > interference if I remember correctly. The percentage of an EM
wave reflected
> > by glass is dictated by the angle of incidence and the
thickness of the
> > glass(at the quantum mechanics level). So yes the radar will
bounce off of
> > your windshield and may make it back to the radar gun. Damn,
made me sound
> > like a geek again!
> > Cheers,
> > Chris
> > BJ8
> > XJ6
>
>
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Fri, 9 Jun 2000 08:47:00 -0600
Subject: car show in Australia
Dear Aussie listers,
I stopped by my "mates" auto body shop this morning and he handed me a
picture of a BN 1/2 registration # PHI 033 ( Victoria ) with a for sale
sign on the wind screen. Just wanted to say it looks good from here. Why on
earth would you want to sell it ?
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
click below for pictures
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/193/FSLO-947281688-900193.jpg
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/046/FSLO-952093816-742046.jpg
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/802/FSLO-952194843-487802.jpg
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 9 Jun 2000 12:44:45 EDT
Subject: Re: Radar guns and Assholism
In a message dated 6/8/00 9:21:08 PM, tfs@mitre.org writes:
<< a few others of us who were at an Air Force Scientific
Advisory Board meeting...
-Skip- >>
Are you sure you aren't too bright to be driving an ancient technology brute
of a tea-bagger-built British lump of iron?
Cheers
Gary
From Susan and John Roper <vscjohn at huntnet.net>
Date: Fri, 09 Jun 2000 13:03:16 -0500
Subject: 100-4 block
I can now proudly report that I have 2 100-4 blocks in the back of my
pick-up, one of which is stock bore, so I can finally get on with the
race engine. Thanks to all of you who were kind enough to offer
solutions to the problem of the broken block. Many were helpful. I do
exclude 2 folks who tried to increase the profit margin in my hour of
need, one from Canada who is a regular contributor here whose block is
apparently cast of a precious alloy. Should anyone else run into
problems with blocks, cranks, rods and such for the 100-4 I have some
spares available. Regards, John Roper
From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
Date: Fri, 9 Jun 2000 11:53:00 -0700
Subject: Quicklift: Anyone using this?
Greetings listers. I lost the original post recommending the Quicklift
system for auto lifting in one's garage. Is anyone out there currently
using this Quicklift ramp product and can I ask for any 1st hand
experiences. I'm ready to order one but thought a quick check from my
fellow Healeyites might be a good idea. Randy Harris (BJ8)
From "Scheuble, Fred J., HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Fri, 9 Jun 2000 16:02:05 -0400
Subject: Bill Bolton
does anyone know how I can reach Bill?
Thanks,
Fred
From "Scheuble, Fred J., HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Fri, 9 Jun 2000 16:11:02 -0400
Subject: Women's Conference
please don't shoot the messenger...
> Women's Conference
>
> The first speaker, a lady from England, stood up and said, "During last
> year's conference we spoke about being more assertive with our
> husbands.Well, after the conference I went home and told my husband,
> Barrington, that I would no longer cook for him and that he would have to
> do it himself!
> After the first day, I saw nothing. After the second day, I saw nothing.
> But on the third day, I saw that he had cooked a wonderful roast lamb."
> The crowd cheered.
>
> The second speaker, a lady from Russia, stood up and said, "After last
> year's conference I went home and told my husband, Ivan, that I would no
> longer do his laundry and that he would have to do it himself.
> After the irst day, I saw nothing. After the second day, I saw nothing.
> But
> on the hird day, I saw that he had done not only his own washing, but
> my washing as well." The crowd again cheered.
>
> The third speaker, a Cajun lady from Thibodeaux, Louisiana, stood up and
> said, "Afta last year's conference, I went rat home and tole dat lazy
> Conass
> husband'a mine, Boudreaux, dat I wadn't gonna do no mo'a his cookin',
> cleanin' or shoppin' and dat he wuz gonna have to do it all fer hissef."
> The crowd rose to their feet and roared with approval.
>
> When it became quiet, she continued, "And I tole'em I wadn't gonna be
> doin' no mo cleanin 'em nasty crawfeesh, giggin' no mo boolfrogs and water
> dawgs,
> skinnin' none'a dem musrats and nutras or check'n no mo catfeesh
> trotlines.
> The crowd went wild--the cheering and clapping lasted for at least 5
> minutes.
>
> When it again became calm, she continued, "Afta the fust day, I didn't saw
> nuttin'. Afta the second day, I didn't saw nuttin' too. But afta the thud
> day, I could see a little bit outta my left eye."
>
From Martin Filardi <filardi at uconect.net>
Date: Fri, 9 Jun 2000 13:55:45 -0400
Subject: BJ8 missfire
I want to thank all that helped me with this problem. The main cause of the
missfire was the use of radio static supressant ignition wires that increased
in resistance over time. The spark was kind of there. Changing to real wire
rather than the silicone made all the difference. The timing was a little off,
and correcting that also made a difference. Thanks, Marty
From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2000 08:18:28 +1000
Subject: Re: car show in Australia
There always seems to be plenty of good 100's for sale here, considering
that top price is about 40,000 Australian ( 23600 US) you can bet most
have lost money if their car if their car has been professionally fully
restored. So it is hard to see why they get sold so often. My best guess
is that it is a tax right off based on the healey being claimed for
business use.
Larry Varley
From Alan Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 9 Jun 2000 23:24:22 +0100
Subject: FS: 4 practically new 15" radials (UK only)
Removed from my Healey after less than 1000 miles as they were too wide
for my rims - but will suit wider after-market rims.
They are American Futura P195/65R15 89S.
Any offers?
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Fri, 9 Jun 2000 17:50:46 -0500
Subject: Aluminum Door Trim Screws
Hi,
Ordered a set of finisher screws and they came zinc plated. I've read that
these should be chrome so now I'm wondering what's right.
??
Thanks,
Adnan
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 09 Jun 2000 19:56:09 -0500
Subject: Pedal travel
What is the proper length of travel for the brake pedal on a BJ8?
Thanks in advance.
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 9 Jun 2000 20:52:32 -0400
Subject: Re: 3RD GEAR
Fred,
Have you tried Sports and Classics (203-655-8731)
I bought one from him a couple of years back.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1963 BJ7
1980 MGB
----- Original Message -----
From: Scheuble, Fred J., HiServ/NA <fjscheuble@hiserv-na.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2000 9:31 AM
Subject: 3RD GEAR
>
> Hi all
> I'm looking for NOS 3rd gear to fit layshaft AEC3649
>
> Thanks,
> Fred
>
>
>
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at connect.comdek.net.au>
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2000 22:43:11 +0800
Subject: help! rearbump box question
Resent 10:45pm ie 14:45GMT
This question must have been too hard as I've had no replies from the list
expert :-)
Hi all
having some minor glitches with my reassembly - particularly with the rear
bump stop boxes.
My parts book does not appear to mention this part.
I can see that the box is bolted on by two bolts through the wheelarch and
two through the body near the rear seats. On the inside there is a small
hole for a cable clip screw.
My questions are
1. Are the bolts hex heads or screw heads? and does this leave a bolt
head projection in the wheel arch?
2 What are the other 2 holes in the outer face for.
TIA
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
1959 BT7 # 10112, in restoration
From "Simon Sabel" <simon.sabel at flinthouse.com>
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2000 17:00:54 +0100
Subject: 100S in the 1954 Panamericana Road Race
Reid, I have an article written by Eoin Young in 1987, that says that
Carroll had to ship the wreck out of Mexico after the crash. But, when
they went to collect it - it had been stripped no engine, rear axle, no
wheels etc - in fact just a body shell was shipped out. looking at the
pictures even that was badly twisted - would anyone have bothered to
rebuild it ? - now the real question is, somewhere in Mexico are some
interesting bits - the question is did they ever get put into another Healey
?
Regards
Simon
Longbridge BN4
From skip saunders <tfs at mitre.org>
Date: Fri, 09 Jun 2000 20:36:27 -0400
Subject: Was: Radar guns and Assholism...cell phones long reply
This is Yet Another interesting topic.. and it probably ought to go off
line, because it isn't really Healey related,... but because you
asked...:-).. just one reply to the net... all other dialogue goes off
line:
First off, I'm not an expert in this area... and I've not really found
anyone I consider to be an expert. I did find a few interesting web
sites though, here was one:
http://www.electric-words.com/adey/adeyindex.html
I'm interested in the topic because both I'm a cell phone user and the
cell phone companies are trying to find a way to raise a cell tower on a
lot two houses down from me...
So, I've done a little research.
Generally, I can't find any specific causal mechanism that relates cell
phone radiation with damage to human tissue. Nor can I find any
scientific evidence that proves the case one way or the other.
Those are two key points. I think they are THE two key points.
The safety "conservatives" declare things to be unsafe until proven
otherwise, and the safety "reckless" declare things safe until proven
otherwise... (I don't agree with either position....because there is
logic behind the proponents of both positions)... Because there's no
definitive evidence proving a problem, cell advocates say not to worry.
But, the uncertainty lingers on because people are continuing to pop up
some sort of study that 'aludes' to a problem, or 'implies' a problem...
or shows a problem if you do something really really bizzar and drastic
(like cook things!!). People who are concerned about the effects
generally have their concern because they just aren't comfortable with
an unknown risk... And that seems quite reasonable to me too.
On the other hand, if one looks at the mechanisms that cause some sort
of problem, I can't think of a plausible mechanism. There are many
that might be considered, and some of the medical research has
investigated one or more of those mechanisms. In general the
mechanisms that might cause problems are:
Heat... (these are microwaves you know...:-).. but the power levels are
too low to cause significant heating... On the other hand, this may
indeed be a culprit... and the power levels of the signal are an
issue...
Disruption of atomic structure...the frequencies are way way too low,
atomic disruption occurs well above the frequencies of light, we tend to
call them x-rays, gamma-rays, etc. but disruption here could be a
mechanism that could be claimed to induce cancer...
Disruption of chemical bonds... (this would potentially cause distortion
in DNA..) ... (this too would be serious, and it would lend credence to
fears over cancer...)...However, again, we're at the wrong
frequencies... At X-band, the wavelengths are on the order of
milimeters... way too long to have effective energy transmission
mechanisms that would rearrange molecules. The molecular bonds are
considerably shorter...
The problem I see, is that I just can't find (doesn't mean it doesn't
exist, it just means that I can't find) a means for the energy from the
microwave frequencies of the cell phone to effectively transfer energy
in any mechanism OTHER THAN HEAT.
Last point: As best as I can figure, heat would be the offending
mechanism for radiation in the microwave region... and it is heat that
is generated with exactly the same mechanism that we observe happening
in a microwave oven... the water molecules (and other small molecules
too) are vibrated like mad until the friction of one molecule rubbing
against another makes heat happen...(a very non-scientific, but
nevertheless accurate description of what is happening).. However, the
power in a microwave oven is measured in thousands of watts, and the
energy out of most folk's cell phone is about 3 watts (or less)... (I
think you are allowed to put out 10 watts out of a car cell phone)...
Now, when you are holding a cell phone antenna about 3 inches from your
brain... yep. could be an issue. (I haven't seen any scientific
evidence that credibly analyzes the consequences... but could be a
problem)
On the other hand, a cell tower antenna might be putting out a thousand
watts... but it is 100 feet tall (at least) and has a directional
antenna that is trying to radiate power out (not down)... The difference
of 100 feet vs 3 inches is about 400 times the distance. And because
radiation from antenna tends to be spread out to blanket an area (it
isn't a pencil beam of energy focused at you), the radiation
disperses... it becomes much weaker than the ratio of 400 would
indicate. In fact it disperses as the square of the distance
differential...So it is 400x400 = 160000 times weaker. This means that
even if the cell tower emits a kilowatt of energy, and it was incident
on a victim who stands 100 feet away, the energy level is 160 times
weaker than that same victim inflicts upon him/herself when they use
their own cell phone.
Bottom line... Beware the cell phone more than the cell tower... (this
analysis doesn't bode well for my objections to a nearby cell tower)..
but it seems to be the facts.. and I have a hard time arguing against
facts.
Real bottom line: The study controversy will continue because each time
someone "proves" one side or the other of the debate, some other
researcher points out the "flaw in the study" which negates the claimed
interpretation... This goes for proponents on both sides of the
argument.
From Chris & Dawne Yusi <chris at ucbrothers.com>
Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2000 00:32:35 -0700
Subject: My Stolen BT7 & Anti Healey-Theft Advice
Hey all,
I just brought home my '61 BT7 that was stolen 13 years ago and has
been in a garage ever since. Many of the lines and harnesses are cut
or disconnected, but it's almost all there. My story circulated on
the list a few months back. I also turned to the list when my
hardtop was sold on eBay for $1525. (Sorry about all that.) I
contacted the buyer and the police, and now have the hardtop as well.
It's been an ordeal but I've learned A LOT.
A veteran auto theft detective gave me some advice I want to pass on.
I recovered my hardtop because I had ONE good photo of some trim
blemishes and scratches. The detective recommended that vintage car
owners shoot at least one roll of 35mm film (not digital) of their
cars.
Get shots of anything that might make the car unique. Blemishes,
scratches, dents, modifications, etc. are all enough to get the car
back. If you can, get your BMIHT Cert numbers on the same roll
(chassis, engine, axle, and gearbox numbers) especially if one of
them has been changed. (You don't want the Cert to work against
you!) Good detectives consider the probability that certain traits
could exist on more than one car, even if those traits are wrinkles
in material, or a mark on the underside of the gas tank. I know it's
a long shot, but it seems like good advice.
Thank you to all the Healey Listers who helped with advice and
support. The list even connected me with people who spoke with
detectives to help me recover it all. LONG LIVE THE LIST!!!
Now, where do I start?
Chris
'61 BT7
(That sounds so cool!)
From "jack_rosen" <jack_rosen at hotmail.com>
Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2000 06:21:46 -0400
Subject: Cell phones (short as possible)
Begs the question,
Does the brain tumor come first, causing
the individual to purchase the cell phone ?
Skip, the exposure levels from the cell tower
will be CONSTANT, 24 hrs. every day.
Make a tinfoil hat, mine works great.
I only hear voices on 5 cent Sundays now.
jr
----- Original Message -----
From: "skip saunders" <tfs@mitre.org>
To: "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec@globalserve.net>
Cc: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 09, 2000 8:36 PM
Subject: Was: Radar guns and Assholism...cell phones long reply
>
> This is Yet Another interesting topic.. and it probably ought to go off
> line, because it isn't really Healey related,... but because you
> asked...:-).. just one reply to the net... all other dialogue goes off
> line:
>
> First off, I'm not an expert in this area... and I've not really found
> anyone I consider to be an expert. I did find a few interesting web
> sites though, here was one:
>
> http://www.electric-words.com/adey/adeyindex.html
>
>
> I'm interested in the topic because both I'm a cell phone user and the
> cell phone companies are trying to find a way to raise a cell tower on a
> lot two houses down from me...
>
> So, I've done a little research.
>
> Generally, I can't find any specific causal mechanism that relates cell
> phone radiation with damage to human tissue. Nor can I find any
> scientific evidence that proves the case one way or the other.
>
> Those are two key points. I think they are THE two key points.
>
> The safety "conservatives" declare things to be unsafe until proven
> otherwise, and the safety "reckless" declare things safe until proven
> otherwise... (I don't agree with either position....because there is
> logic behind the proponents of both positions)... Because there's no
> definitive evidence proving a problem, cell advocates say not to worry.
> But, the uncertainty lingers on because people are continuing to pop up
> some sort of study that 'aludes' to a problem, or 'implies' a problem...
> or shows a problem if you do something really really bizzar and drastic
> (like cook things!!). People who are concerned about the effects
> generally have their concern because they just aren't comfortable with
> an unknown risk... And that seems quite reasonable to me too.
>
> On the other hand, if one looks at the mechanisms that cause some sort
> of problem, I can't think of a plausible mechanism. There are many
> that might be considered, and some of the medical research has
> investigated one or more of those mechanisms. In general the
> mechanisms that might cause problems are:
>
> Heat... (these are microwaves you know...:-).. but the power levels are
> too low to cause significant heating... On the other hand, this may
> indeed be a culprit... and the power levels of the signal are an
> issue...
>
> Disruption of atomic structure...the frequencies are way way too low,
> atomic disruption occurs well above the frequencies of light, we tend to
> call them x-rays, gamma-rays, etc. but disruption here could be a
> mechanism that could be claimed to induce cancer...
>
> Disruption of chemical bonds... (this would potentially cause distortion
> in DNA..) ... (this too would be serious, and it would lend credence to
> fears over cancer...)...However, again, we're at the wrong
> frequencies... At X-band, the wavelengths are on the order of
> milimeters... way too long to have effective energy transmission
> mechanisms that would rearrange molecules. The molecular bonds are
> considerably shorter...
>
> The problem I see, is that I just can't find (doesn't mean it doesn't
> exist, it just means that I can't find) a means for the energy from the
> microwave frequencies of the cell phone to effectively transfer energy
> in any mechanism OTHER THAN HEAT.
>
> Last point: As best as I can figure, heat would be the offending
> mechanism for radiation in the microwave region... and it is heat that
> is generated with exactly the same mechanism that we observe happening
> in a microwave oven... the water molecules (and other small molecules
> too) are vibrated like mad until the friction of one molecule rubbing
> against another makes heat happen...(a very non-scientific, but
> nevertheless accurate description of what is happening).. However, the
> power in a microwave oven is measured in thousands of watts, and the
> energy out of most folk's cell phone is about 3 watts (or less)... (I
> think you are allowed to put out 10 watts out of a car cell phone)...
>
> Now, when you are holding a cell phone antenna about 3 inches from your
> brain... yep. could be an issue. (I haven't seen any scientific
> evidence that credibly analyzes the consequences... but could be a
> problem)
>
> On the other hand, a cell tower antenna might be putting out a thousand
> watts... but it is 100 feet tall (at least) and has a directional
> antenna that is trying to radiate power out (not down)... The difference
> of 100 feet vs 3 inches is about 400 times the distance. And because
> radiation from antenna tends to be spread out to blanket an area (it
> isn't a pencil beam of energy focused at you), the radiation
> disperses... it becomes much weaker than the ratio of 400 would
> indicate. In fact it disperses as the square of the distance
> differential...So it is 400x400 = 160000 times weaker. This means that
> even if the cell tower emits a kilowatt of energy, and it was incident
> on a victim who stands 100 feet away, the energy level is 160 times
> weaker than that same victim inflicts upon him/herself when they use
> their own cell phone.
>
> Bottom line... Beware the cell phone more than the cell tower... (this
> analysis doesn't bode well for my objections to a nearby cell tower)..
> but it seems to be the facts.. and I have a hard time arguing against
> facts.
>
> Real bottom line: The study controversy will continue because each time
> someone "proves" one side or the other of the debate, some other
> researcher points out the "flaw in the study" which negates the claimed
> interpretation... This goes for proponents on both sides of the
> argument.
>
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2000 08:42:41 -0400
Subject: Re: help! rearbump box question
I will give it a go John, but cars are so rusty up here that one sometimes
has difficulty determining what is original and what is not.
As I recall the screws that attach the rear bump box are 1/4" pan head
Posidrive. The heads are in the wheel arch on the horizontal and on the seat
platform for the vertical as I recall.
If the other two holes that you are refering to are above the bump box, close
together and one above and to the side of the other they are probably the
early type seat belt mount.
I do stand corrected if someone has better information.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
John Rowe wrote:
> Resent 10:45pm ie 14:45GMT
>
> This question must have been too hard as I've had no replies from the list
> expert :-)
>
> Hi all
>
> having some minor glitches with my reassembly - particularly with the rear
> bump stop boxes.
>
> My parts book does not appear to mention this part.
>
> I can see that the box is bolted on by two bolts through the wheelarch and
> two through the body near the rear seats. On the inside there is a small
> hole for a cable clip screw.
>
> My questions are
> 1. Are the bolts hex heads or screw heads? and does this leave a bolt
> head projection in the wheel arch?
> 2 What are the other 2 holes in the outer face for.
>
> TIA
> Regards
> John Rowe
> Perth
> Western Australia
> 1959 BT7 # 10112, in restoration
From RandallC2 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2000 09:12:24 EDT
Subject: 100/4 Hardtop
Has anyone had any experience with a Universal Laminations hardtop for a
100/4 that is sold out of the UK?
TIA
Randy Hicks
From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2000 09:25:22 EDT
Subject: Hub nut torque
Thanks for the tips for removing the rear axle hub nut on my BJ8. Do you by
any chance know what I whould retorque them to when I reassemble? Thanks.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2000 07:56:55 -0600
Subject: radar follow up
Listers,
Thanks for all advice and technical info( Skip).
If any one is interested take a look at http://www.paynofine a mostly
informative site.
Dave
From Retters at aol.com
Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2000 12:12:21 EDT
Subject: Oil Pan Glued On
Hello all, am changing my oil pan gasket (3000 mk I) and have found the pan
impossible to remove. Must be glued on with some super silicone ( don't know
why it leaks, it's glued on so tight !) Any clever tips out there as to where
to apply more force to break the seal without damaging sealing surfaces?
Thanks, Dave Rettew
59 3000
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2000 12:38:04 -0400
Subject: Re: help! rearbump box question
>
Hi John,
Further to my previous e mail. I stand corrected by myself ??
The parts book for the early BT7/ BN7 indicates that hex head bolts HZS0404
were used for the horizontal bolts and Oval head screws PMZ0412 were used for
the vertical. The wierd thing is that the illustration indicates that the
heads were both inside the car??
See parts book plate HB
Hope this helps..
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2000 12:56:08 -0400
Subject: Re: Oil Pan Glued On
Retters@aol.com wrote:
> Hello all, am changing my oil pan gasket (3000 mk I) and have found the pan
> impossible to remove. Must be glued on with some super silicone ( don't know
> why it leaks, it's glued on so tight !) Any clever tips out there as to where
> to apply more force to break the seal without damaging sealing surfaces?
>
> Thanks, Dave Rettew
> 59 3000
Hi Dave,
Must have been a flat rate job!!!
Start in one corner with a sharp screwdriver and carefully tap it into the
joint,
just a little. Get another of your collection of sharp screwdrivers tap it in
the
same way about 1 inch from the other on the long side of the pan, repeat this
process until you run out of screwdrivers at lease 5 or 6 just keep tapping them
in progressively. The trick is to spread the load over enough places of the pan
to aviod bending the flange too much.
Good luck.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From John Slade <edalsj at igs.net>
Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2000 12:52:20 -0400
Subject: Rear Bump Box.
I have my 3000 Mk II tricarb down to bare bones, and although it also is
a northern car (NY and Ontario), I have no reason to believe that most
of the bits and pieces are not original. The left bump box is still on
the chassis (I removed the other one some weeks ago), and it is attached
much as Mike Salter has described, with the exception of the fastener
types. The two down from the top of the rear seat platform are, by my
description, 1/4" 28tpi round head phillips-type screws (is this similar
to Posidrive ?) 3/4" thread length, while the two in from the wheel
arch are 1/4" 28tpi hex head bolts, 1/2" thread length. The two screws
are attached with nuts and lock washers, while the two hex bolts screw
into captive nuts.
There are two holes just behind the bump box rear screw in a vertical
line. I seem to remember that the slide for the back of the rear seat
mounts through these holes.
Hope this helps.
John Slade
Manotick, ON
From "George Castleberry" <leavcast at infomagic.com>
Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2000 08:23:22 -0700
Subject: Help in St Louis
I am considering purchasing a BN2 that is in St. Louis. I am in Arizona.
Is anyone near St. Louis that would take a look at it for me?
George
From Mark Fawcett <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2000 10:50:50 -0700
Subject: Understandable English for Europeans(Not Healey but humorous)
This is pretty funny. Thought the list would enjoy it.
The European Commission has just announced an agreement whereby
English will be the official language of the European Union rather than
German,
which was the other possibility. As part of the negotiations, Her
Majesty's Government conceded that English spelling had some room for
improvement and has accepted a 5 year phase-in plan that would be known
as
"Euro-English".
In the first year, 's' will replace the soft 'c'. Sertainly, this
will make the sivil servants jump with joy. The hard 'c' will be dropped
in
favour of the 'k'. This should klear up konfusion and keyboards kan
have
one less letter.
There will be growing publik enthusiasm in the sekond year when the
troublesome 'ph' will be replased with the 'f'. This will make words
like 'fotograf' 20% shorter.
In the third year, publik akseptanse of the new spelling kan be
expekted to reach the stage where more komplikated changes are
possible.
Governments will enkourage the removal of double leters which have
always
been a
deterent to akurate speling. Also al wil agre that the horibl mes of
the
silent 'e' in the languag is disgrasful and it should go away.
By the 4th yer peopl will be reseptiv to steps such as replasing
'th' with 'z' and 'w' with 'v'.
During ze fifz yer, ze unesesary 'o' be dropd from vords
kontaining'ou' and similar changes vud of kors be aplid to oza
kombinations
of letas.
After ziz fifz yer ve vil have a rali sensibl riten styl. Zer vil
be no mor trubl or difikultis and evrivun vil find it ezi tu anderstand
ech
oza.
Ze drem of an united urop vil finali kum tru!
From "Mike Goode" <mgoode at netjets.com>
Date: Fri, 9 Jun 2000 09:20:46 -0700
Subject: Emission testing help
Listers:
I need some help. I just bought a BJ-8 (40462) here in AZ. Great
condition, no rust, very original, engine rebuilt with only 10K miles
on it. I had a BJ-7 in the late 60's and always wanted to own one
again....so here I am...maybe.
So I go to register it and AZ says it is a '67 and therefore has to go
through emission testing. It has been registered here for the past 12
years and each year the previous owner had all kinds of problems
getting it through (I think he got tired of trying). I tried three
times (working with a mechanic) and it still could not get through the
test. I thought perhaps there is a better way, so I did some research
and determined that the BJ-8 phase 2 was in production from 1964 to
1967...same car for all those years. Arizona does not require testing
for a '66, but does for a '67. Best I can tell, the car was produced
in late '66 or 1967. How can I convince them that the cars are the
same for all those years and should be exempt from testing? I assume
the car passed Federal standards in 1967 for imports but now the state
says it has to pass stricter standards. I thought that was why they
stopped making Healeys...they did not want to put the smog control and
safety devices on the car and ruin it. MG decided to continue and look
at the result...those ugly black rubber bumpers and all that junk on
the engine.
I have researched the archives and have found very little on how to
get this bugger through the dyno testing. I can get the CO and
Hydrocarbons down at idle, but CO fails under loading. Can I use the
defense of when the engine was made should be the deciding factor,
versus when the car was made?
I need some hard evidence to show to the Air Quality people and DMV.
What about other states with emission testing? Does anyone know what
the Federal standards were in 1967 vs. 1966 or where I can find it? I
thought there was a big change and all the emission control stuff had
to be in place for any car imported after January 1, 1968. I would
love to hear from anyone.
Thanks....
Mike Goode '66 or '67 BJ8/40462
Scottsdale, AZ
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2000 12:09:11 -0600
Subject: Re: 100-4 block
John,
In regards to the "precious alloy" you referred to in your open critique to
those who did not meet your expectations. That metal is called unobtainium
in the business. IMHO the price you choked on was far below what I've had
to pay for similar parts, also referred to as "scarce as hen's teeth" .
While it is fair to shop around, I don't think it was fair to blast someone
on the list who has helped most of us at one time or another. My 2 cents
worth.
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
----- Original Message -----
From: "Susan and John Roper" <vscjohn@huntnet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 09, 2000 12:03 PM
Subject: 100-4 block
>
> I can now proudly report that I have 2 100-4 blocks in the back of my
> pick-up, one of which is stock bore, so I can finally get on with the
> race engine. Thanks to all of you who were kind enough to offer
> solutions to the problem of the broken block. Many were helpful. I do
> exclude 2 folks who tried to increase the profit margin in my hour of
> need, one from Canada who is a regular contributor here whose block is
> apparently cast of a precious alloy. Should anyone else run into
> problems with blocks, cranks, rods and such for the 100-4 I have some
> spares available. Regards, John Roper
>
>
From sdsabel at attglobal.net
Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2000 19:09:02 +0100
Subject: Cracked cylinder head
Gentlemen, during a decoke I have found a crack coming from each of the
circular water holes, the head is an early BN4 tunnel port of 1956 vintage
.... should I be worried ? or can I ignore them ? - also I am curious has
anyone with an early BN4 upgraded their head to the BN6 version with HD6 SU
carbs. Was it worth doing ? has anyone modified a tunnel port head to any
benefit ? look forward to your comments
TIA
Regards
Simon
Longbridge BN4 - headless at present !
From "Simon Sabel" <simon.sabel at flinthouse.com>
Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2000 19:23:05 +0100
Subject: BN6 Head
Chaps, based on the response to my earlier mail and it seems worth while
upgrading my tunnel port to the later 6 port BN6 assembly - and before I get
too excited - does anyone in the UK have one for sale ?
Regards
Simon
BN4 Longbridge - maybe with a new head soon !
From "Andy King" <healey-100 at hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2000 09:11:53 -1000
Subject: Re: Emission testing help
You need to import that special clean burn reformulated gasoline from
california. Drain your tank and fill it with the reformulated gas right
before a test is done. I would think this would work I have no experiance
with it though.
Andy King
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Goode" <mgoode@netjets.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 09, 2000 6:20 AM
Subject: Emission testing help
>
> Listers:
>
> I need some help. I just bought a BJ-8 (40462) here in AZ. Great
> condition, no rust, very original, engine rebuilt with only 10K miles
> on it. I had a BJ-7 in the late 60's and always wanted to own one
> again....so here I am...maybe.
>
> So I go to register it and AZ says it is a '67 and therefore has to go
> through emission testing. It has been registered here for the past 12
> years and each year the previous owner had all kinds of problems
> getting it through (I think he got tired of trying). I tried three
> times (working with a mechanic) and it still could not get through the
> test. I thought perhaps there is a better way, so I did some research
> and determined that the BJ-8 phase 2 was in production from 1964 to
> 1967...same car for all those years. Arizona does not require testing
> for a '66, but does for a '67. Best I can tell, the car was produced
> in late '66 or 1967. How can I convince them that the cars are the
> same for all those years and should be exempt from testing? I assume
> the car passed Federal standards in 1967 for imports but now the state
> says it has to pass stricter standards. I thought that was why they
> stopped making Healeys...they did not want to put the smog control and
> safety devices on the car and ruin it. MG decided to continue and look
> at the result...those ugly black rubber bumpers and all that junk on
> the engine.
>
> I have researched the archives and have found very little on how to
> get this bugger through the dyno testing. I can get the CO and
> Hydrocarbons down at idle, but CO fails under loading. Can I use the
> defense of when the engine was made should be the deciding factor,
> versus when the car was made?
>
> I need some hard evidence to show to the Air Quality people and DMV.
> What about other states with emission testing? Does anyone know what
> the Federal standards were in 1967 vs. 1966 or where I can find it? I
> thought there was a big change and all the emission control stuff had
> to be in place for any car imported after January 1, 1968. I would
> love to hear from anyone.
>
> Thanks....
>
> Mike Goode '66 or '67 BJ8/40462
> Scottsdale, AZ
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2000 15:18:30 -0400
Subject: Re: BN6 Head
I will give you one in Canada but you have to arrange the shipping or pick it
up!!
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
Simon Sabel wrote:
> Chaps, based on the response to my earlier mail and it seems worth while
> upgrading my tunnel port to the later 6 port BN6 assembly - and before I get
> too excited - does anyone in the UK have one for sale ?
>
> Regards
>
> Simon
> BN4 Longbridge - maybe with a new head soon !
From JohnbS7257 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2000 16:29:29 EDT
Subject: 3000 MkII for Sale
Just found a 3000 MkII for sale here in Marquette, MI. Looks to be a pretty
good restoration. It is in a private collection that is being sold off
(includes a Cobra Replicar, 57 Ford, Excaliber, etc). Color is close to Reno
Red. It doesn't have the plate on the firewall with the car number and body
number but there is a small black plastic plate with "BMC-63" in white
letters. The salesman at the location today couldn't find the paperwork so I
couldn't find any more numbers. If you are interested contact Tim Lutey at
Trinity Used Cars, 830 W. Washington St. Marquette, MI 49855 (906) 228-0244.
Standard "I have no interest in the car or the seller" but would like to see
it get to someone who would appreciate it.
John Stevens
"Ruby" BJ8 27621
JohnbS7257@aol.com
From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2000 17:14:08 EDT
Subject: Re: Emission testing help
In a message dated 06/10/2000 2:17:02 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
mgoode@netjets.com writes:
<< So I go to register it and AZ says it is a '67 and therefore has to go
through emission testing >>
Well there are a few products out there you can add to your gas which make it
burn cleaner. The reality is these are designed for people like you trying
to get an old car through the smog test. I used to run the tank down in my
old Datsun, then add two cans of "dry gas" right before going to the
inspection station. That seemed to work. If you can find some gasoline with
alcohol added to it, that should do the same thing. The alcohol burns
cleaner. Most of the additives are alcohol based and I think that is how
they work.
The other thing is to lean down your carbs as much as you can. That will
reduce the stuff going out the tail pipe, but you don't want to run around
all the time leaned out. That will lead to a burned valve. Just make sure
you count the number of turns on the mixture screws when you do this so you
can put it back to where it was when you get home.
Tim Wallace
'67 BJ8
Fuquay-Varina, NC
From "S.HUTCHINGS" <hutching at myna.com>
Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2000 17:48:54 -0400
Subject: BJ8 Manifolds
I took the engine of this car apart back in the seventies, and there was
nothing in the way of a buffer
between the exhaust and intake manifolds (where the bolts fasten them
together). I assume that
the bolts are there to keep them tight together, rather than vibrating
against one another. Now that I'm doing it again, I wonder......was there
supposed to be a gasket or buffer in there?
Stephen BJ8
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2000 18:07:34 -0400
Subject: Re: BJ8 Manifolds
Yes, a gasket.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
"S.HUTCHINGS" wrote:
> I took the engine of this car apart back in the seventies, and there was
> nothing in the way of a buffer
> between the exhaust and intake manifolds (where the bolts fasten them
> together). I assume that
> the bolts are there to keep them tight together, rather than vibrating
> against one another. Now that I'm doing it again, I wonder......was there
> supposed to be a gasket or buffer in there?
> Stephen BJ8
From "S.HUTCHINGS" <hutching at myna.com>
Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2000 18:21:14 -0400
Subject: Re; Re BJ8 Manifolds
Thanks so much, Michael......I'll be in touch!
Stephen
From Martin Filardi <filardi at uconect.net>
Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2000 16:33:29 -0400
Subject: RE: Oil Pan Glued On
Is the engine in the car or out? I would suggest tapping it a little bit harder
on the corners where the pan is stronger. Do not tap the flat surfaces. The
screwdriver technique is a good idea. I found that after I took mine off it was
so bent up at each fastening bolt that I had to straighten out the whole flange
with a hammer and wooden blocks of the right size. I also straightened out some
dents in the bottom of the pan, but if you have not had a lot of experience
with this you could rip the metal which then would have to be welded, which
isn't such a bad thing. After you get the pan off take a look at the flange and
see if it is wavy, if it is, straighten it out. You can buy a single body
hammer at most auto supply shops that will do the trick, or just use any hammer
you have. You really cannot hurt the thing, go for it. If you are near SE CT.
bring it over, and I will do it for you. Ciao, Marty
----------
From: Michael Salter
Sent: Saturday, June 10, 2000 12:56 PM
To: Retters@aol.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Oil Pan Glued On
Retters@aol.com wrote:
> Hello all, am changing my oil pan gasket (3000 mk I) and have found the pan
> impossible to remove. Must be glued on with some super silicone ( don't know
> why it leaks, it's glued on so tight !) Any clever tips out there as to where
> to apply more force to break the seal without damaging sealing surfaces?
>
> Thanks, Dave Rettew
> 59 3000
Hi Dave,
Must have been a flat rate job!!!
Start in one corner with a sharp screwdriver and carefully tap it into the
joint,
just a little. Get another of your collection of sharp screwdrivers tap it in
the
same way about 1 inch from the other on the long side of the pan, repeat this
process until you run out of screwdrivers at lease 5 or 6 just keep tapping them
in progressively. The trick is to spread the load over enough places of the pan
to aviod bending the flange too much.
Good luck.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2000 19:33:08 -0400
Subject: re : oil pan glued on
While there are a few replies on this I'll add two more cents worth.
Try using a gasket scraper which is thinner and using the
method of tapping between pan and block this way you are pretty much
guarenteed not to distort the pan rail. After you think you have broke thru
a good deal of glue / silicone try bumping the pan at a corners edge with a
rubber mallet.
good luck , Carroll
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2000 20:26:49 EDT
Subject: Re: help! rearbump box question
In a message dated 6/9/00 11:16:26 PM, jarowe@connect.comdek.net.au writes:
<<
My questions are
1. Are the bolts hex heads or screw heads? and does this leave a bolt
head projection in the wheel arch?
2 What are the other 2 holes in the outer face for. >>
Here's our current state of knowledge about the 6-cylinder roadsters, from
our restoration book: "Although the parts list specified that hex nuts were
used for the upper fasteners, the fasteners found on all cars have been large
phillipps-head screws with flat washers on the interior, with nuts, split and
flat washers visible in the fender wells. On the occasional four-seaters
[BT7s to you] the upper screws and washers were visible on the interior , but
the lower screws were covered by carpeting..."
Obviously the shaft of the screw should be just long enough to allow the nut
to be fastened on tight, since they do project out on this model. Not sure
what you mean about the other two openings, though there are two vertical
screws and two horizontal screws.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
author, Austin-Healey 100/100-6/3000 Restoration Guide.
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2000 20:28:24 EDT
Subject: Re: re : oil pan glued on
In a message dated 06/10/2000 6:35:43 PM Central Daylight Time,
bjcap@frontiernet.net writes:
<< Try using a gasket scraper which is thinner >>
KEY word, here, folks. "IF" you are careful ref first (er?) insertation, a
rubber mallet applied to (I prefer) a paint scraper will go around about 89%
of the pan.
GOOD call, Carroll!!
Cheers............
(never STBTDT)... Ed
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2000 20:42:44 EDT
Subject: Re: help! rearbump box question
In a message dated 6/10/00 6:01:16 AM, magicare@home.com writes:
<< As I recall the screws that attach the rear bump box are 1/4" pan head
Posidrive. The heads are in the wheel arch on the horizontal and on the seat
platform for the vertical as I recall. >>
Panheads, yes, pozidrivs, unlikely. BMC didn't introduce pozidrivs until
1961, so most BT7s wouldn't have had them.. There is some question about when
they introduced captive nuts with hex-head bolts going in from the fender
well (some people think it was done on the Mark II BT7s -- which would have
been about the same time Phillips screws were being replaced by Pozidrivs.
Cheers
Gary
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2000 20:46:29 EDT
Subject: Re: Rear Bump Box.
Thanks very much for the following information. This checks with other Mark
IIs that we've found. Lister, please note, however, that this description
applies only to Mark II roadsters. Those of us who have worked on the
concours standards do not believe it applies to earlier roadsters, which had
screws both horizontally and vertically, or the convertibles, which had
captive nuts and used hex-head bolts.
Cheers
Gary Anderson.
In a message dated 6/10/00 10:15:16 AM, edalsj@igs.net writes:
<<
I have my 3000 Mk II tricarb down to bare bones, and although it also is
a northern car (NY and Ontario), I have no reason to believe that most
of the bits and pieces are not original. The left bump box is still on
the chassis (I removed the other one some weeks ago), and it is attached
much as Mike Salter has described, with the exception of the fastener
types. The two down from the top of the rear seat platform are, by my
description, 1/4" 28tpi round head phillips-type screws (is this similar
to Posidrive ?) 3/4" thread length, while the two in from the wheel
arch are 1/4" 28tpi hex head bolts, 1/2" thread length. The two screws
are attached with nuts and lock washers, while the two hex bolts screw
into captive nuts. >>
From CIAG6 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2000 23:20:21 EDT
Subject: Re: Emission testing help
In a message dated 6/10/00 3:28:42 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
Healybj8@aol.com writes:
<< The other thing is to lean down your carbs as much as you can. That will
reduce the stuff going out the tail pipe, >>
True for the CO but too much leaning out causes the unburned hydrocarbons to
increase. Most states, such as here in Colorado test for both and it is a
real balancing act to lean the carbs out just enough to pass the CO test but
not so lean as to be high on the hydrocarbons.
Be happy a 66 doesn't have to pass emissions in AZ. Here in Colorado, it has
to be pre-61. But, with some fiddling, you can get them all to pass if the
engine is in good shape. Here's how my 62 passes: (1) fresh oil, about a
quart below maximum, (2) new spark plugs, (3) timing set somewhat retarded,
(4) alcohol in the gas, (5) engine very hot. Oh yes, LOW octane gas.
Ray G
From "Simon Sabel" <simon.sabel at flinthouse.com>
Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2000 06:36:30 +0100
Subject: Re: BN6 Head
Thanks for the offer but can you imagine the cost of bringing one back to
the UK ! - I have had some comments about changing the cam as well, my BN4
has always been quite punchy, how can I tell which cam is in it ? it could
have been upgraded already .
Regards
Simon
Longbridge BN4
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at connect.comdek.net.au>
Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2000 14:16:50 +0800
Subject: Re: help! rearbump box question
Thanks all for the info on the bolts. I now have that clear.
However, Mike, my Service Parts List 'The AUSTIN-HEALEY 3000 (Series BN7 AND
BT7)', no part number shown inside the front cover, does not have the rear
bump stop box shown on plate HB. Everything else is there for the rear
spring setup.
The diagram on page 76 of the Moss catalogue is similar and shows the rear
bump box with two extra holes in the face in the wheelarch. Question - what
are these little suckers for.
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
BT7 in resto with some minor hiccups.
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Salter <magicare@home.com>
To: John Rowe <jarowe@connect.comdek.net.au>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, June 11, 2000 12:38 AM
Subject: Re: help! rearbump box question
> >
>
> Hi John,
>
> Further to my previous e mail. I stand corrected by myself ??
> The parts book for the early BT7/ BN7 indicates that hex head bolts
HZS0404
> were used for the horizontal bolts and Oval head screws PMZ0412 were used
for
> the vertical. The wierd thing is that the illustration indicates that the
> heads were both inside the car??
> See parts book plate HB
> Hope this helps..
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
>
>
From Donald Shields <dons300 at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2000 05:19:46 -0400
Subject: re:Ooops....
Many thanks to those list members who responded to my "Oooops" message.
It has been most helpful to my beginning efforts.
I will try to respond to each of you personally. Thanks again,
DonS-'67BJ8
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2000 07:28:53 -0500
Subject: Re: BN6 Head
how can I tell which cam is in it ? it could
>have been upgraded already .
You have to mount a degree wheel to the engine then turn the engine by hand
and record the opening and closing events of the intake and exhaust valve
on the #1 cylinder. This will provide you with the seat to seat duration
of the cam. Next, measure the lift at the valve when closed and at maximum
open. This will provide you with the lift figure. Divide the valve lift
figure by the rocker arm ratio and you will have the lift at the cam (or
lobe). You can also check the duration at .050 (at the cam) since this
figure is more often used to compare cams. If you are interested in
determining the portion of the duration attributable to the ramp loading
and the slope acceleration, it can be calculated with some additional
measurements. Contact me off line and I can provide you with some
references and instructions.
Best regards.
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
From "Coop1 at DNAI" <coop1@dnai.com>
Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2000 07:22:52 -0700
Subject: Surface rust or disaster?
Greetings listers
Your advice is needed please: I set about to install new insulation under
the carpeting on my new (to me) BJ8. I removed the 20 yr old carpeting and
old disintegrated jute padding and much to my disappointment I found a fair
amount of old rust on the driver and passenger side floor. Obviously, the
P/O got stuck in a few rainstorms with the top down. I took a chisel to it
and the rust flaked off to bare metal. It doesn't go all the way through
the floor anywhere and is mostly concentrated where the floor panels are
joined by welds and where the fiberglass tunnel cover joins the floor. The
rounded bolts on the floor are very rusted but they too flaked off to expose
good metal beneath the rust.
So, here's the dilemma. I really don't want to remove the interior or get
into a serious rust repair project at this time, but I don't want to neglect
this problem to the point where I might fall through the floor on the
freeway some day. The rust does appear to be only in the areas I described
and has not eaten through anywhere - the sills and other potential problem
areas are great for instance. How serious is my rust problem and can it be
stopped short of major repair? Thanks for any opinions.
Randy Harris
From "Dan Dougherty Sr." <globalrc at mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2000 12:13:10 -0400
Subject: BN1-BN2 transmission swap
Swapped a BN-2 four speed OD tranny into BN-1. Drive shaft is about 4 inches
short. What is the answer? Later drive shaft? Lengthen BN-1 drive shaft?
Dan, globalrc@mindspring.com
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2000 13:48:08 -0400
Subject: Re: BN1-BN2 transmission swap
Hi Dan,
The driveshaft lengths were :
to C. 140204 (spiral bevel axle 3 speed
box) 21.125"
C.140205 - C.E. 221535 ( Hypoid axle 3 speed box)
20.75"
C.E. 221536 on (Hypoid axle 4 speed
box) 20.00"
An extremely useful book by Messers Anderson and Moment ;-) indicates that the
hypoid rear axle was fitted at C.221536 and the BN2 (4 speed box) was started at
C.228047.
This means that the later axle required a 3/8" shorter drive shaft and the 4
speed box required an additional shortening of 3/4"
The conclusion therefore would be that if you fitted a 4 speed box, without
changing the rear axle, the shaft should need to be 3/4" shorter not 4" longer.
Are you sure that you have not got the sliding yoke jammed at the fully
compressed position?
Based upon the amount of movement permitted by the sliding yoke I would bet that
you could get away without modifying the shaft at all.
Hope this helps,
-
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
"Dan Dougherty Sr." wrote:
> Swapped a BN-2 four speed OD tranny into BN-1. Drive shaft is about 4 inches
> short. What is the answer? Later drive shaft? Lengthen BN-1 drive shaft?
> Dan, globalrc@mindspring.com
-
From Jay Quinn <jpquinn at home.com>
Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2000 14:23:47 -0500
Subject: '62 Sprite MKII 4 Sale - All In Parts
Hi All:
I have a 1962 Austin-Healey Sprite MKII VIN# HAN6L2874 for sale, it's
all in parts (main component parts) and I have lots of spares and
everything to make a complete care with a left over engine and tranny
and 2 extra axles, etc...
The car is located in Richardson, TX in an air conditioned garage. The
body is on stands, and is very straight with minimal rust in the right
places and everything is there and works and I have the lean free
title. I have the original engine and tranny, both work but smoky and
noisey, the other engine & tranny is a 1275 both rebuilt/overhauled from
a 72 Midget with new clutch. Engine driven on @ 20K miles, 0 miles on
clucth and tranny. Have roll bar, removable hard top, removable soft
top, bolt on/off windows, 4.22, 3.9 & 3.7 rear axles, Moto-lita
Steering wheel, rebuilt front and rear end suspension, front disk
brakes, Vizards tuning book and other hard bound books and 2 paper bound
Haynes and BL books lots and lots of extras and goodies too numerous to
name off here.
I prefer to sell the whole lot all at once for $3K or less preferred as
individual main component/parts for best made offers. I will *NOT* box
and ship the big/large items like engines, trannys, etc... I will *NOT*
remove and sell pieces/parts off the main body/carcass. Whoever buys he
body/carcass gets the lean free title. I prefer someone in the greater
DFW area to come with their own truck/flat bed and take from premise
after agreed price(s) has been reached.
If interested, please email me at mailto:jpquinn@home.com, from there I
will give you my reachable phone numbers.
Thanks and I look forward to hearing from interested buyers,
Jay Quinn
mailto:jpquinn@home.com
From Jay Quinn <jpquinn at home.com>
Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2000 14:33:21 -0500
Subject: '62 A-H Sprite 4 Sale - In Parts
Hi All:
I have a 1962 Austin-Healey Sprite MKII VIN# HAN6L2874 for sale, it's
all in parts (main component parts) and I have lots of spares and
everything to make a complete care with a left over engine and tranny
and 2 extra axles, etc...
The car is located in Richardson, TX in an air conditioned garage. The
body is on stands, and is very straight with minimal rust in the right
places and everything is there and works and I have the lean free
title. I have the original engine and tranny, both work but smoky and
noisey, the other engine & tranny is a 1275 both rebuilt/overhauled from
a 72 Midget with new clutch. Engine driven on @ 20K miles, 0 miles on
clucth and tranny. Have roll bar, removable hard top, removable soft
top, bolt on/off windows, 4.22, 3.9 & 3.7 rear axles, Moto-lita
Steering wheel, rebuilt front and rear end suspension, front disk
brakes, Vizards tuning book and other hard bound books and 2 paper bound
Haynes and BL books lots and lots of extras and goodies too numerous to
name off here.
I prefer to sell the whole lot all at once for $3K or less preferred as
individual main component/parts for best made offers. I will *NOT* box
and ship the big/large items like engines, trannys, etc... I will *NOT*
remove and sell pieces/parts off the main body/carcass. Whoever buys he
body/carcass gets the lean free title. I prefer someone in the greater
DFW area to come with their own truck/flat bed and take from premise
after agreed price(s) has been reached.
If interested, please email me at mailto:jpquinn@home.com, from there I
will give you my reachable phone numbers.
Thanks and I look forward to hearing from interested buyers,
Jay Quinn
mailto:jpquinn@home.com
From BN4L at aol.com
Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2000 15:42:33 EDT
Subject: Re: Emission testing help
In a message dated 6/10/2000 2:31:14 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
Healybj8@aol.com writes:
<< The other thing is to lean down your carbs as much as you can. That will
reduce the stuff going out the tail pipe, but you don't want to run around
all the time leaned out. That will lead to a burned valve. Just make sure
you count the number of turns on the mixture screws when you do this so you
can put it back to where it was when you get home.
>>
I used to get my son's '66 (although the engine was a 1275) through the test
by screwing the jet adjustment nut on one of the SUs all of the way up. The
car didn't run too good, but it would pass.
Art Hill
Escondido, CA
'58 100-6 BN4 A-H "Mille Miglia"
'66 TR6R Triumph Tiger
'96 R1100RT BMW
From Chris & Dawne Yusi <chris at ucbrothers.com>
Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2000 13:22:36 -0700
Subject: Where Do I Start?
Okay, I'm looking at this treasure/mess and I'm trying to figure out
where to start. I have not seen my '61 BT7 since it was stolen 13
years ago. It ran very strong then, but has been garaged since. I
am told that it is still totally rust and collision free.
This is a driver, not a restoration project. I need help and advice
on where to start, with a safety-first approach. My recent auto
mechanic experience is limited to oil changes and brakes. Way back
when, on the Healey, I rebuilt the brake and clutch cylinders, put in
Koni shocks up front, replaced the clutch (with help), and adjusted
the valve clearances and points. That's it. Any advice or comments
on the following would be great:
1. If I'm going to put it up on jack stands for a while, where are
the best points? I'm concerned about denting the frame with the
stands, but I want access to the suspension. Should I place
something between the stands and the frame? Should I not worry about
small depressions in the frame?
2. I am inclined to just start with the wiring harness. Most of the
wires to the headlights and indicators have been cut. The ignition
is STILL hot-wired under the dash, after all these years. I'm
worried about electrical surprises that could be dangerous.
3. Next, I'm concerned about fuel. The tank is sitting in place, but
is not connected to anything. What should I do while I've got such
great access? For safety's sake, I'm considering replacing all fuel
lines.
4. I figure I should move on to the brakes next. Again, I may just
replace the lines and rebuild everything that I can.
5. It was converted to a dual carb/center shift before I had it, and
the engine number has been removed. How do I determine which engine,
and carbs I've got in it?
6. I was told that the engine started with a temporary fuel line a
few months ago and that it "sounded real strong." What should I
assume must have been done in preparation for this (re: oil, carbs,
plugs, other electrical, etc)? I expect to have to rebuild the
carbs. Should I wait on that until I get it running?
7. Finally, I feel like there must be a laundry list of things to
look for on a car like this. Thus, I turn to the list. Help!
TIA.
- Chris (Feeling like the luckiest guy in the world.)
'61 BT7
From "RL Chrysler" <lchrysl at fhs.csu.McMaster.CA>
Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2000 16:20:40 -0400
Subject: Re: help! rearbump box question
John wrote:
> This question must have been too hard as I've had no replies from the list
> expert :-)
Okay, there's a challenge if ever I heard one!
> having some minor glitches with my reassembly - particularly with the rear
> bump stop boxes.
>
> My parts book does not appear to mention this part.
>
>
> I can see that the box is bolted on by two bolts through the wheelarch and
> two through the body near the rear seats. On the inside there is a small
> hole for a cable clip screw.
>
> My questions are
> 1. Are the bolts hex heads or screw heads? and does this leave a bolt
> head projection in the wheel arch?
Answer #1.
The two vertical ones beside the seats are 1/4"x 3/4" long screws pt. #
PMZ0412, running down into large flat, then small flat washers, then
lockwashers and finally hex nuts on the underside. The two horizontal ones
are hex head 1/4" bolts, pt. #HZS0404 heads inside the car, running out
through spring washers and flat washers aparently into welded nuts on the
wheel arch. I'm at a bit of a disadvantage here as I don't have a BT7 parts
manual so am relying on memory and a BJ7 parts book for the screw sizes.
> 2 What are the other 2 holes in the outer face for.
I think you'll find the other two holes are one above the other, and are to
anchor the slotted bracket which positions the rear squab panel inside the
car on BT7's.
Rich Chrysler
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2000 19:33:11 EDT
Subject: Re: help! rearbump box question
In a message dated 06/11/2000 4:04:32 PM Central Daylight Time,
lchrysl@fhs.csu.McMaster.CA writes:
Dam*it, Rich!! Spent a LOT of hours going thru EVERY Healey catalog ANF
Service Parts Manuals, etc. JUST to find you here FIRST!! Geeesh!!
<<Answer #1.
The two vertical ones beside the seats are 1/4"x 3/4" long screws pt. #
PMZ0412, running down into large flat, then small flat washers, then
lockwashers and finally hex nuts on the underside. The two horizontal ones
are hex head 1/4" bolts, pt. #HZS0404 heads inside the car, running out
through spring washers and flat washers aparently into welded nuts on the
wheel arch. >>
Yep,yep,yp & yeps.
<< I'm at a bit of a disadvantage here as I don't have a BT7 parts
manual so am relying on memory >>
Huuuuum?? OFdom hasn't set in?? <VBG>
Benn thru every page of mine and no listing AT ALL?!?!?!?
<<and a BJ7 parts book for the screw sizes.>>
AND BJ-8 (combination, I believe<G>!!)
> 2 What are the other 2 holes in the outer face for.
I think you'll find the other two holes are one above the other, and are to
anchor the slotted bracket which positions the rear squab panel inside the
car on BT7's. >>
As near as I can find, remember (on Hortense) the same is true for the
"stop?"?
And would surmise same would apply to BJ-8s for the "fold-down panel"??
Above "key" word of remember is because it has been a tad over 10 years since
I did this job. I do CLEARLY remember the four fasteners per side tho. I am
pretty sure I recall a bracket being involved.
Cheers............
Ed
PS: EVERY "catalog" I have (lots) show 4 holes in each fixture and that
there are THREE different "boxes".
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2000 21:15:45 -0400
Subject: re: rusted floors
Randy,
First of all congrads on having a fine example of a BJ8 ! The
rust problem you have are the kind most of use dream of. What happens at
this area is very common but usually much worse. The floor pan as you saw
was stitch welded and spot welded to the main frame members/ inner sill, the
seams then got a modest amount of caulking to keep things dry. What happens
over time - caulk dries out water enters between and lots of rust mainly
because the tar paper wont let things dry from the top up.
Fix in your case can be very simple. Use a wire wheel on a small
grinder 4-5 inch for ease of handling and get the rust off as best you
can.You can then use a good rusty metal primer like rustoleum as a base and
then follow a top coat for metel by same. Caulk all areas above and below
and you' re good for a good number of years. If rust keeps returning you
may want to replace the floor ( easy) or replace the areas (usually the
front of the floor ) which is really easy( flat sheetmetal ).
If your rust comes clean enough for a brushed on rustoleum type job
youve got it made! however I will cover myself and state that rust never
sleeps you can also chemically alter slight rust and de-scaled areas with a
metal conditioner for better and longer lasting results.I hope I have not
been too long winded about this process.This is a simple fix and not a
compounded floor sill restoration type of project.
Good luck be watchfull for other rust prone areas and do some
preventative maint. before its too late
Carroll Phillips (top down restorations)
From Bob Brown <rcbrown at lucent.com>
Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2000 21:29:01 -0500
Subject: Re: 3000 MkII for Sale
My daughter, Mell, (18 year old) saw this car on the lot. She thought she
should stop to check it out, just to let Dad know about it.
THe interesting thing that she questioned was the salesperson
insisted that the Mark II was a 1967! She was sure that Mark II's
were much earlier. In her opinion the salesperson was extremely rude
and was giving a potential line that was BS.
BTW the asking price is $24K.
Bob
JohnbS7257@aol.com wrote:
>
> Just found a 3000 MkII for sale here in Marquette, MI. Looks to be a pretty
> good restoration. It is in a private collection that is being sold off
> (includes a Cobra Replicar, 57 Ford, Excaliber, etc). Color is close to Reno
> Red. It doesn't have the plate on the firewall with the car number and body
> number but there is a small black plastic plate with "BMC-63" in white
> letters. The salesman at the location today couldn't find the paperwork so I
> couldn't find any more numbers. If you are interested contact Tim Lutey at
> Trinity Used Cars, 830 W. Washington St. Marquette, MI 49855 (906) 228-0244.
>
> Standard "I have no interest in the car or the seller" but would like to see
> it get to someone who would appreciate it.
>
> John Stevens
> "Ruby" BJ8 27621
> JohnbS7257@aol.com
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at slip.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2000 19:30:57 -0700
Subject: Miss Stumble
I have a slight miss (or stumble) on the BJ8 on acceleration, mostly in 1st or
2nd but sometimes
in 3rd. It's very slight, but not normal for this car. Timing and plugs are
OK, I have a Pertronix
electronic ignition which has worked flawlessly so far, and the carbs are
topped-up.
It runs fine at constant speed, just a Little Miss on hard pulling, usually --
but not always --
when fully warmed up.
Any ideas?
TIA,
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@slip.net (home)
San Jose, CA. bspidell@teknema.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
From "Coop1 at DNAI" <coop1@dnai.com>
Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2000 20:59:44 -0700
Subject: Thanks all for the advice re: rusty floors
I have received numerous responses on and off list that have been both
encouraging and educational. I now know that my rusty floor board problem
is in all likelihood easily remedied and not as serious as I feared. So
thanks everyone for responding with your great suggestions and
encouragement. Terrific group! Randy Harris
From Wildbil923 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 00:11:39 EDT
Subject: Daily Driver Insurance for a Healey
Does anyone use their Healey for a daily driver and/or have it insured
accordingly. I'm starting to think it's crazy to own such a neat car and
only drive it on weekends (time permitting). Any advice regarding good
insurance company, coverage, cost, etc. would be appreciated.
Bill
1961 BT7
From hm.heim at t-online.de (Helga+Martin Heim)
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 11:37:08 +0200
Subject: BN4 back from the paint shop
Hi all
you can have a look on my freshly painted BN4 on high heels <g> on the
following link. What a great view for me after getting it back. I have the
passenger door and trunk lid in my home room to look at and touch it from
time to time. Sounds a bit weird, but I guess most of you can feel with me.
Still a long way to go but the 'dirty' work is done.
Martin
Germany
Proud on his painted chassis
http://www.myphotosnow.com/i.asp?H=www.myphotosnow.com&L=16&R=246923&P=39319
&N=EN
I hope it works, it's the first time I have some pictures available in the
Internet. BTW the &N=EN belongs to the link, I don't have the slightest idea
why it is not highlighted.
Customernr.: 03113310
Filmnr.: 16-246923
Passwort.: 39319
if necessary.
From cstinehelfer at bajamarine.com
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 08:26:23 -0400
Subject: Re: Emission testing help
This might sound like I am pulling your leg but..................
Check to see if your state has a little-known emissions "improvement"
section. Basically, it states that if you fail the test; you need a 25%
improvement in your score. (Or reduction in emissions, in other words) If
you find that this applies in your state, here is what to do:
Totally screw up your carb settings (I mean we're talking mosquito smoking
here) You may even want to go so far as changing jets.
Change your plugs (ever keep a few that were so bad you had to show them to
someone else?)
Heck, don't even hook a couple of them back up! (nonfiring plugs make nasty
hydrocarbons!)
Take your test again. (and fail gloriously! No more "almost passed" scores
here...)
Go home and undo all your hard work (I.E. TUNE IT)
Take the test one last time.
Go home satisfied and enjoy an adult beverage!
Chris
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 08:12:08 -0400
Subject: Smog Test
Chris wrote:
Check to see if your state has a little-known emissions "improvement"
section. Basically, it states that if you fail the test; you need a 25%
improvement in your score. (Or reduction in emissions, in other words) If
you find that this applies in your state, here is what to do:
Great idea Chris. Sort of the old "Mark it up 40% then reduce the price 25%
and put it on sale" trick.
Reminds me of Clint Eastwood in "Escape from Alcatraz" when he went through
the metal detector with a spoon in his pocket and one hidden in a hollowed
out spot of the heel of his shoe.
Naturally the metal detector buzzed. He stopped with the foot containing
the hidden one past the detector, took the spoon out of his pocket and
handed it to the guard, then went on with the other one still firmly in his
heel.
There's a way to beat any system. As a young man in California when smog
tests first became mandatory, we would hook everything up, take the test,
then place a marble in the crank case hose to block crank case emissions
from being sucked into the carburetor.
Don
BN7
From "Richard E. Pratt" <prattri at email.msn.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 09:22:18 -0400
Subject: RE: Smog Test
Question:
Would the use of synthetic oil help?
Richard Pratt
65 BJ8
Cincinnati, OH
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Don Yarber
> Sent: Monday, June 12, 2000 8:12 AM
> To: Healey List
> Subject: Smog Test
>
>
>
> Chris wrote:
>
> Check to see if your state has a little-known emissions "improvement"
> section. Basically, it states that if you fail the test; you need a 25%
> improvement in your score. (Or reduction in emissions, in other
> words) If
> you find that this applies in your state, here is what to do:
>
> Great idea Chris. Sort of the old "Mark it up 40% then reduce
> the price 25%
> and put it on sale" trick.
>
> Reminds me of Clint Eastwood in "Escape from Alcatraz" when he
> went through
> the metal detector with a spoon in his pocket and one hidden in a hollowed
> out spot of the heel of his shoe.
>
> Naturally the metal detector buzzed. He stopped with the foot containing
> the hidden one past the detector, took the spoon out of his pocket and
> handed it to the guard, then went on with the other one still
> firmly in his
> heel.
>
> There's a way to beat any system. As a young man in California when smog
> tests first became mandatory, we would hook everything up, take the test,
> then place a marble in the crank case hose to block crank case emissions
> from being sucked into the carburetor.
>
> Don
> BN7
>
>
>
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at connect.comdek.net.au>
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 21:47:29 +0800
Subject: Re: Re:rearbump box question answers
Hi all
Thanks to all who took the time to respond re my "extra holes in the rear
bump stop box"
I have since chased up a local unrestored early BT7 and looked at the
problem item. The rear bump stop box does indeed have the same extra holes
and these are totally vacant of any attachments.
So----- I guess I'll leave mine the same way.
Another problem solved in this restoration, thanks to the list, and forward
we go.
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
BT7 in resto -- onward we go.
From "Brad Weldon" <bweldon at georgefox.edu>
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 08:56:30 -0700
Subject: RE: BN4 back from the paint shop
Martin, thanks for taking the time to post all the great pictures. Some of
us need the ongoing enouragement of other's successes to keep us going!
Brad
'55 bn1 (waiting for the garage sale, to make room in the shop, so I can
start taking it apart, and not misplace anything.)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Helga+Martin Heim
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2000 02:37 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: BN4 back from the paint shop
Hi all
you can have a look on my freshly painted BN4 on high heels <g> on the
following link. What a great view for me after getting it back. I have the
passenger door and trunk lid in my home room to look at and touch it from
time to time. Sounds a bit weird, but I guess most of you can feel with me.
Still a long way to go but the 'dirty' work is done.
Martin
Germany
Proud on his painted chassis
http://www.myphotosnow.com/i.asp?H=www.myphotosnow.com&L=16&R=246923&P=39319
&N=EN
I hope it works, it's the first time I have some pictures available in the
Internet. BTW the &N=EN belongs to the link, I don't have the slightest idea
why it is not highlighted.
Customernr.: 03113310
Filmnr.: 16-246923
Passwort.: 39319
if necessary.
From Joseph Elmer <Joelmer at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 12:06:03 -0400
Subject: Re: Miss Stumble
Bad plug.
Bob Spidell wrote:
> I have a slight miss (or stumble) on the BJ8 on acceleration, mostly in 1st
>or 2nd but sometimes
> in 3rd. It's very slight, but not normal for this car. Timing and plugs are
>OK, I have a Pertronix
> electronic ignition which has worked flawlessly so far, and the carbs are
>topped-up.
>
> It runs fine at constant speed, just a Little Miss on hard pulling, usually
>-- but not always --
> when fully warmed up.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> TIA,
> Bob
> ***********************************************************************
> Bob Spidell bspidell@slip.net (home)
> San Jose, CA. bspidell@teknema.com (work)
> `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
> ***********************************************************************
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 12:14:51 EDT
Subject: Re: Where Do I Start?
In a message dated 6/11/00 1:54:38 PM, chris@ucbrothers.com writes:
<< 1. If I'm going to put it up on jack stands for a while, where are
the best points? I'm concerned about denting the frame with the
stands, but I want access to the suspension. Should I place
something between the stands and the frame? Should I not worry about
small depressions in the frame?
2. I am inclined to just start with the wiring harness. Most of the
wires to the headlights and indicators have been cut. The ignition
is STILL hot-wired under the dash, after all these years. I'm
worried about electrical surprises that could be dangerous. >>
I'll offer my comments on these, since I'm fairly sure of my answers:
Minimum placement of jack stands would be under the longitudinal frame rails
on the front about even with the springs. You should have no problem
removing the suspension with them in that position. On the back, I place the
jack stands under the rear box-section cross member towards the ends
(oriented 90 degrees to the front jack stands). My jack stands have a slight
depression in the center of the supports that clears the weld seam, so no
protection necessary. Should you repaint the frame, you might want to put a
rag in between the stand and frame after that point to keep the frame from
being scratched.
Certainly, if the wiring harness has been messed with at all, its worth
putting in a new wiring harness while you've got the car apart and can do it.
Cheers
Gary
From BANJOJOHN at aol.com
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 12:17:17 EDT
Subject: plug gap?
Hi listers:
I am running a 40,000 volt coil and petronix ignitor electronic ignition in
my 1275 in my bugeye. What should my plug gap be?
TIA
John O'Brien
'61 bugeye
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 17:51:46 +0100
Subject: Re: BN1-BN2 transmission swap
Dan
I was not quite clear from your original query but is it possible that
you have just fitted a later - shorter overdrive unit to a short BN1
gearbox. This could explain a difference of around 4". Regarding the
minor differences in length that Mike mentions below many people appear
to ignore the slight differences and rely on the longish spline movement
to cover the variations. I personally do not do this but I do notice
that certain spares suppliers which I will not name only list one
replacement part for all applications!
Regards
>
>The driveshaft lengths were :
>to C. 140204 (spiral bevel axle 3 speed
>box) 21.125"
>C.140205 - C.E. 221535 ( Hypoid axle 3 speed box)
>20.75"
>C.E. 221536 on (Hypoid axle 4 speed
>box) 20.00"
>An extremely useful book by Messers Anderson and Moment ;-) indicates that the
>hypoid rear axle was fitted at C.221536 and the BN2 (4 speed box) was started
>at
>C.228047.
>This means that the later axle required a 3/8" shorter drive shaft and the 4
>speed box required an additional shortening of 3/4"
>The conclusion therefore would be that if you fitted a 4 speed box, without
>changing the rear axle, the shaft should need to be 3/4" shorter not 4" longer.
>Are you sure that you have not got the sliding yoke jammed at the fully
>compressed position?
>Based upon the amount of movement permitted by the sliding yoke I would bet
>that
>you could get away without modifying the shaft at all.
>Hope this helps,
>-
>Regards,
>
>Mike Salter
>http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>"Dan Dougherty Sr." wrote:
>
>> Swapped a BN-2 four speed OD tranny into BN-1. Drive shaft is about 4 inches
>> short. What is the answer? Later drive shaft? Lengthen BN-1 drive shaft?
>> Dan, globalrc@mindspring.com
>
>-
>
--
John Harper
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 17:36:48 +0100
Subject: Re: help! rearbump box question
In message <001501bfd157$df6ebe40$884341ca@home>, John Rowe
<jarowe@connect.comdek.net.au> writes
>
>Resent 10:45pm ie 14:45GMT
>
>This question must have been too hard as I've had no replies from the list
>expert :-)
>
>Hi all
>
>having some minor glitches with my reassembly - particularly with the rear
>bump stop boxes.
>
> My parts book does not appear to mention this part.
>
>
>I can see that the box is bolted on by two bolts through the wheelarch and
>two through the body near the rear seats. On the inside there is a small
>hole for a cable clip screw.
>
>My questions are
>1. Are the bolts hex heads or screw heads? and does this leave a bolt
>head projection in the wheel arch?
I am not too sure about a BT7 but on a BN2 1/4" UNF Hex. head
bolts(screws actually - threaded the whole way) and nuts are used. There
was a change brought out in an Austin Service Journal to fit the nuts on
the inside of bolts fitted in the vertical face. This was to reduce the
chance of damage to the tyre wall when cornering hard.
>2 What are the other 2 holes in the outer face for.
No idea
All the best
--
John Harper
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 13:25:05 EDT
Subject: Re: help! rearbump box question
In a message dated 6/11/00 2:34:00 PM, lchrysl@fhs.csu.McMaster.CA writes:
<< The two horizontal ones
are hex head 1/4" bolts, pt. #HZS0404 heads inside the car, running out
through spring washers and flat washers aparently into welded nuts on the
wheel arch. I'm at a bit of a disadvantage here as I don't have a BT7 parts
manual so am relying on memory and a BJ7 parts book for the screw sizes. >>
This item is worth checking with a Service Parts List for the car being
restored. The specifications definitely changed between the BT7 "mark Is"
and the BJ7s, so whether or not there were welded nuts depends on when the
car was built.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From Martin Johnson <MJohnson at cfworks.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 10:30:37 -0700
Subject: RE: Emission testing help
Hi Mike
If I found myself in your shoes, I would get the Heritage Certificate
for your car. If it has a build date of 1966, then maybe you can
convince them that the car was registered with the wrong year of
manufacture all along, and you belong in the exempt catagory. If it
turns out that the car was really manufactured in '67, well, the
Certificate is always nice to have, and back to the drawing board for a
mechanical answer. Do your carbs need to be rebuilt? Maybe they are
jetted too rich, or something like that.
Good Luck...
Martin Johnson
'60 BN7
'59 Sprite
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Goode [mailto:mgoode@netjets.com]
Sent: Friday, June 09, 2000 9:21 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Emission testing help
Listers:
I need some help. I just bought a BJ-8 (40462) here in AZ. Great
condition, no rust, very original, engine rebuilt with only 10K miles
on it. I had a BJ-7 in the late 60's and always wanted to own one
again....so here I am...maybe.
So I go to register it and AZ says it is a '67 and therefore has to go
through emission testing. It has been registered here for the past 12
years and each year the previous owner had all kinds of problems
getting it through (I think he got tired of trying). I tried three
times (working with a mechanic) and it still could not get through the
test. I thought perhaps there is a better way, so I did some research
and determined that the BJ-8 phase 2 was in production from 1964 to
1967...same car for all those years. Arizona does not require testing
for a '66, but does for a '67. Best I can tell, the car was produced
in late '66 or 1967. How can I convince them that the cars are the
same for all those years and should be exempt from testing? I assume
the car passed Federal standards in 1967 for imports but now the state
says it has to pass stricter standards. I thought that was why they
stopped making Healeys...they did not want to put the smog control and
safety devices on the car and ruin it. MG decided to continue and look
at the result...those ugly black rubber bumpers and all that junk on
the engine.
I have researched the archives and have found very little on how to
get this bugger through the dyno testing. I can get the CO and
Hydrocarbons down at idle, but CO fails under loading. Can I use the
defense of when the engine was made should be the deciding factor,
versus when the car was made?
I need some hard evidence to show to the Air Quality people and DMV.
What about other states with emission testing? Does anyone know what
the Federal standards were in 1967 vs. 1966 or where I can find it? I
thought there was a big change and all the emission control stuff had
to be in place for any car imported after January 1, 1968. I would
love to hear from anyone.
Thanks....
Mike Goode '66 or '67 BJ8/40462
Scottsdale, AZ
From "John J. Black" <transmancat at bbnow.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 13:08:16 -0700
Subject: Around the world, where are they now.
Hi Guys
Sorry for the delays but pressure of work etc has led me to drop the rally
reports for a few days.
In the meantime the rally is now within the USA. In Alaska to be precise.
The London to Peking event is over and so some more competitors have left
the event, only the diehards stay with the rally back to London.
So what has been going on? Well if you think that finding parts is hard work
in the USA try finding a stub axle for a Aston DB2/4 in China!!!
No problem, a man who knows a man will make you one for the price of a meal
and letting him put a copy of the Aston logo outside his shop (just in case
another few Astons go by looking for stub axles!)
The Astons are generally having a hard time with suspension breakages, so
much so that if the event has an Aston in it they would do well to look at
this area of the car.
Fuel quality, or the lack of quality is giving most of the engines a rough
time of it. Even the speed six Bentley with a 5.1 compression ratio! The V12
Phantom Rolls had to dump a tank full it was so bad.
Tire and rubber mount problems has plagued everyone with stories of broken
mounts and shredded tires over the rough terrain. The MGB is not having any
problems at all it would seem. The tire it is using are 14" 8 plies (seems
like a good idea that has paid off!) The Rolls has 21" tire and needed them
badly but the hotel manager sent them away by mistake, it took the
intervention of the British Embassy to get them back and delivered to the
hotel in time for the car to continue, without those tires the car was out
of the event!!!
The Porsche 356 got a tow to a checkpoint after a breakdown (against all the
rules) but was let off with a warning. The Facel (Team Healey car) has
trashed the front shocks and bashed the sump up into the crank so that the
crank hits the sump all the time, repairs were made locally in Baotou.
In Zhangjiakou it would appear that a great party developed and ended with
the Dutch Bentley crew dancing on the tables after a Melon fight, this
amused the Chinese so much that they joined in. It is rumored that a film
crew is offering a cash reward to anyone that will talk to them about the
incident, nobody is saying anything but they get lots of smiles when they
ask questions!
The very same Dutch dancer also had a very verbal argument with the
officials after his Bentley was stolen whilst he was taking a pee behind a
tree. Now for those of you that don't know a Speed Six Bentley is not a car
that just anyone can get into and drive away (If you ever get the chance ask
Gerhard Berger of F1 fame, he had the same problem on in Monaco once!
Another story for another time!) So another Bentley driver was the chief
suspect. Just the Bentley boys at play.
Some results for you.
London Peking
The 1914 Rolls Ghost won the Against all odds trophy, a well deserved win
fort such an old lady. The Spirit of the rally award went to the table
dancing Dutch crew of WallenKamp and my old friend Foppe D'Hanne.
The event winner was the Browns Bentley MX with the Roll Phantom in 2nd
place.
The classics were led by yes you guessed it the Japanese crewed Datsun 410
!!!!!!!! with the Peugeot taking second place and the Jones Jaguar XK140
third, the Alvis missed the class win by only 4 seconds. The MGB finished in
9th place and the Morgan 21st.
All the cars and crews are no in Anchorage waiting to start the USA section.
I will give you a breakdown on the standings as soon as possible.
Regards
John J Black
Waterloo Drivetrain Systems
http://www.waterloo-dtr.com
From Peter Brauen <pbrauen at telepak.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 13:36:54 -0500
Subject: Re: plug gap?
Hey John,
A good rule of thumb is 1 thou' for every thou', as my dad used to say.
i.e: the stock coil is around 25,000 volts therefore .025 gap. For a 40,000
volt coil you can go up to .040. Be careful though, 40,000 is max for the
pertronix ignition.---Peter
-----Original Message-----
From: BANJOJOHN@aol.com <BANJOJOHN@aol.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, June 12, 2000 11:50 AM
Subject: plug gap?
Hi listers:
I am running a 40,000 volt coil and petronix ignitor electronic ignition
in
my 1275 in my bugeye. What should my plug gap be?
TIA
John O'Brien
'61 bugeye
From Peter Brauen <pbrauen at telepak.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 13:38:22 -0500
Subject: Re: Miss Stumble
Cracked rotor arm!
-----Original Message-----
From: Joseph Elmer <Joelmer@worldnet.att.net>
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@slip.net>
Cc: healeylist <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, June 12, 2000 11:40 AM
Subject: Re: Miss Stumble
Bad plug.
Bob Spidell wrote:
> I have a slight miss (or stumble) on the BJ8 on acceleration, mostly
in 1st or 2nd but sometimes
> in 3rd. It's very slight, but not normal for this car. Timing and
plugs are OK, I have a Pertronix
> electronic ignition which has worked flawlessly so far, and the carbs
are topped-up.
>
> It runs fine at constant speed, just a Little Miss on hard pulling,
usually -- but not always --
> when fully warmed up.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> TIA,
> Bob
>
***********************************************************************
> Bob Spidell bspidell@slip.net (home)
> San Jose, CA. bspidell@teknema.com (work)
> `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
>
***********************************************************************
From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 13:36:38 -0700
Subject: Detailing an engine (the lazy way)
This group has been so helpful, I decided to push my luck and ask for more
advice:
Fortunately, my BJ8 engine compartment is well sorted out and clean but in
various places the paint has flaked off of the engine, radiator and fan
leaving an unsightly 1st impression. My guess is the previous owner didn't
use a primer (or did a poor job). I want to detail the engine compartment
WITHOUT removing the engine or any major components. The only problem is
I've never done it before, so I'm not sure where to begin. I'm not looking
to create a show car (obviously). I just want a nice respectable (more or
less) correct presentation under the hood.
Any advice as to procedures for this project? I've got the correct paint
but haven't got the primer yet - what's best here? Also, I've noticed
several Healey's at local meets with their radiator tops taken down to
polished brass - what's that about?
All tips, tricks and traps are welcome. As always.... Thanks in
advance....
Randy Harris
From "Mike Goode" <mlgoode at msn.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 14:32:30 -0700
Subject: Emission testing help
Listers:
Thanks to everyone for the great ideas concerning my dilemma in
getting my BJ8 through Arizona emission testing. This list is such a
great way to communicate. I am so relieved to know I don't have
anything major wrong with my car..."It's a Healey" and that is the way
it is.
The best advice I got (although all of it was great) was from a lister
who lives right here in my backyard. He has a BJ8 as well and has the
same problems.
He wrote:
I have never figured out how to set the SU's, although I have been
told
many times it is fairly simple. I have survived by failing the
initial
test (just to make sure I guess), then take it to a mechanic who has
miraculously been able to twiddle with the SU's (lean them out), I
then
limp to the test station, pass the test, limp back to the mechanic who
then resets the SU's for another year of legally registered driving
fun.
I now go directly to the mechanic, saving one step, and giving him a
second chance should he need it (which he hasn't so far). He charges
me
$45, which I guess is cheap considering the fun I can then legally
have
with Horace on the road.
That's me! I have already spoken to his mechanic (who by luck is the
one who originally rebuilt my motor eight years ago) and he is ready
to go to work on my car. He did get it through with my previous owner,
but he said it is a little fussy and temperamental. He said he will
get it through and then get it back to where it runs. What a political
mess! Testing a car that never should have to go through emission
testing, and then putting it back into running condition after it
passes the gas test (so to speak).
At any rate, thanks again to everyone for the ideas. It is great to be
back behind the wheel after 27 Healey-less years. What a bunch of
memories flood back....
Mike Goode
'67 BJ-8
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 17:42:10 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: lucas sport coil
Mike
Don't the Lucas Standard and Sport Coils have Built-in Resistors? And don't
all Coils usually specify "Built-in Resistor" or Not?
Thanks
---- you wrote:
>
> Martin Filardi wrote:
>
> > Is it possible to put a lucas sport coil on a BJ8 and just bypass the
>ballast resister? What is the ballast resister anyway? I want the bigger coil
>but do not want to change the points settup. Will the sport coil be too much
>voltage for the points?
> > TIA, Marty
>
> Hi Marty,
>
> Your BJ8 should not have a ballast resistor. The ignition system is a full 12
>volt system and the starting system does not include the ballast resistor
>bypass wire that allows for the better spark on startup.
> You can use a Sport coil but IMHO the only improvement is aesthetic.
> The standard ignition system in your Healey, when in good condition, is
>perfectly adequate for that engine in standard tune.
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 17:57:51 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Radar guns and Assholism
A Real Big Round of Applause sent East from Mpls to you.
A Terrific summary and it should be printed somewhere by someone.
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
> <<My question to all you traffic experts is, Does the shape of the old
> flat
> glass windshields, or the presence of extra chrome or other factors
> relative to older cars have any known effect on radar readings? I'm aware of
> radio/microwave/etc interference. Any studies on radio interference from old
> ignition systems? No other traffic around, flat,level,clear conditions>>
>
> I told myself I wasn't going to respond to this as I knew the comments
> following the original post (and a legitimate one) would undoubtedly turn
> into a cop bashing thread. I am rather impressed that it has not and
> everyone on the list so far has been mature about this question.
> Radar guns are not infallible. I'll try to paint a picture for you. The
> rays from a radar work similarly to a flashlight beam. The farther away the
> beam travels, the wider it gets. Along those same lines, if your beam of
> light hits two objects, one small and one large, and both of these objects
> are at equal distance from the source, you will naturally end up with more
> light on the larger object, or target. This is the same principle the gun
> operates. If your vehicle is beside a Semi or other large vehicle it will
> pick up the speed of the larger vehicle before any LBC. The police are
> trained in this method and have basically a pick of the litter when it comes
> to traffic infractions. Most of them will leave an infraction alone if there
> is a question. Violations are quite abundant out there as most of us know.
> Since you said you were on a long stretch of road by yourself and he got you
> on moving radar your options are limited. Radars are required to be
> certified every certain number of months and the police officer is required
> to bring this calibration to court with him. The unit also needs to be
> manually calibrated before and after the tour of duty. These are the facts
> sir. Trust me. And now to get on my soap box.........
> It is not mandatory for the police officer to show you the readout on the
> unit. He doesn't have to even lock the speed in. As long as the speed is
> displayed on his readout, even for a second, its enough to warrant a summons.
> Expert testimony will only drain your pocket for something trivial.
> Forget it.
>
> Was driving back from getting my MR2 serviced and punched it to see if the
> vibration I was feeling was cured. This just happened to be in a school zone
> about 500 yards from my house.
>
> Oh boy. I'll leave this one alone.
>
> The accessories on your car have nothing to do with the attraction/accuracy
> of the beam. Unless it makes it bigger than the vehicle you are beside.
>
> And the assholism comment. Hmmm. Let me see, how many of you have had a four
> year old scream for help because they are trapped in a car because of
> someone's bad decision in another car. It may seem a waste of time and you
> may feel the officer had nothing better to do than write a summons, but I
> assure you it is a necessary evil. Too often a third party is injured for
> stupid decisions made in vehicles. Please don't hate the officers for doing
> their job. You made a decision and unfortunately got caught. No big deal.
> Don't get me wrong. There are places in your city to test drive your
> vehicle. Lock the brakes up, rabbit accelerations, and serving can be done
> on quiet country roads where no one can get hurt except yourself. This way
> if you do make a bad decision you are only endangering yourself and no one
> else.
>
> The problem is how to prove the cop is either lying or needs glasses?!
>
> This is where you need to focus your fight. You can't prove he needs glasses
> so your only hope to get a dismissal is to find a flaw in the officer's
> testimony, i.e., calibrations, venue, articulation etc. The officer may have
> made a mistake. Everyone does. I understand you were not driving
> recklessly. And if you were indeed driving the pace you say then my advice
> to you is if your driving record is bad, get a lawyer and see if you qualify
> for driving school. The fine will be dropped and no points added to your
> record at the completion of the school. Your out of pocket expenses is the
> lawyer and the school. Possibly a lot of money up front, but you win in the
> long run. Any lawyer that graduated can recommend Driver Improvement. Good
> luck.
> Sure is high up here on this soap box.......
>
> Steve Goldman
> Chesapeake, Va.
> 56 BN2 "The Beast"
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From LarryRPH at aol.com
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 18:02:57 EDT
Subject: Re: Detailing an engine (the lazy way)
I am intersted in the same information and would appreciate receiving any
info you get.
Larry Wysocki
From "Don Gschwind" <dgschwind at prodigy.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 18:00:42 -0400
Subject: Tach inop.
Hi, Listers
Just when I was getting my morale up after completely rewiring
the car and finding everything works, I find I was a little hasty.
When I fired up the engine after sitting since Oct, there was no tach
reading. I seem to remember a similar request for info on the line
recently, and the reponse delt with "reversing the tach wire". Is this
the problem? I'm not sure what this means. Is this reversing the
direction of the loop of white wire from the ignition switch, and is
this just within the loop on the back of the tach? Also, the copper
strip surrounding the loop in its plastic block does not touch the two
protruding copper "leafs" within the tach. Should these contact by
bending the copper strip? Thanks in advance, other than this item,
"Pandora" is ready to roll!
DON
BJ8 Pandora
From "Don Gschwind" <dgschwind at prodigy.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 18:16:21 -0400
Subject: Tach Inop.
Hi Listers
I just got my BJ8 all together after complete rewiring and
found my tach does not work. I recall something on the list recently
about reversing the current flow through the tach. I don't understand
what this means. Is this coiling the white wire from the ignition
switch in a different direction or what?
Also, I note that the copper leaf on the block of plastic
holding the coil does not contact the copper leaf from inside the
tach. Should the leaf be bent and placed so each end is in contact
with the internal contacts?
Thanks in advance, as "Pandora" is now ready to roll except
for this!
DON
BJ8 Pandora
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 18:18:15 -0400
Subject: anti-theft device
Chris,
For many years I have offered customers a cutoff switch for the fuel pump,
buried in the carpet inside the car on the bulkhead the pump mounts on and
hooked into the wire to the pump. Like the battery master switch (and an
auxillary switch in the white wire ignition circuit) it adds an additional
measure
of security.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
From John Trifari <john4 at home.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 03:23:48 -0700
Subject: Safety Fast
I have received a number of old British car magaziones, including
several issues of 1960-63 Safety Fast. I am missing the following:
2-3/60, 5-7/60, 9/60 and 11/60.
1/61, 2-7/61 10-11/61
1-5/62; 9-12/63.
Does anyone know where I can get these issues. When was SF published?
Thanks John Trifari 55 BN1/65 BJ8 (ph1)
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 18:39:13 -0400
Subject: Re: lucas sport coil
>
Does a coil have an internal resistor? Well not a that you would recognize as
such. The 300 odd coils of wire in the primary provide the resistance largely
as a function of the length and the small diameter. In a ballast type coil
(that is one used in
conjunction with a ballast resistor) the resistance of the primary is typically
around 1.5 ohms whereas in a non ballast coil it is around 3 -3.5 ohms.
This means that on a non ballast system you will get a current flow (when the
points are closed of around 3.5 amps where on a ballast coil with the points
closed and the ballast resistor bypassed about 8 amps.
This means that if you run a car that has no ballast resistor using a ballast
resistor coil you are putting a lot more current through the coil than it can
dissipate thus the coil overheats and fails.
As far as the question of putting a "Sports" coil on an unmodified engine is
concerned. to quote Lucas in their training manuals.
"IGNITION COILS
There are many different types of ignition coils available. These differ in the
ratio of primary to secondary turns, and the resistance of the primary winding.
It is always necessary to use the correct coil for the engine.
The performance of the engine will not be improved by replacing the standard
ignition coil with a sports coil. Certain modifications to the engine are also
required. (For instance, the carburettor and spark plug gaps will probably need
to be adjusted.)"
For my 2 cents worth. If the manufacturer could have got more power by fitting
a sports coil, adjusting the carbs and opening the plug gap believe me they
would have done that.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 18:41:13 EDT
Subject: Re: RE: Emission testing help
Next state over (CA) has new smog laws that have the Healeys all exempt from
smog tests...
Hint hint... ;)
In a message dated 6/12/00 10:38:07 AM, MJohnson@cfworks.com writes:
<< Listers:
I need some help. I just bought a BJ-8 (40462) here in AZ. Great
condition, no rust, very original, engine rebuilt with only 10K miles
on it. I had a BJ-7 in the late 60's and always wanted to own one
again....so here I am...maybe.
So I go to register it and AZ says it is a '67 and therefore has to go
through emission testing. It has been registered here for the past 12
years and each year the previous owner had all kinds of problems
getting it through (I think he got tired of trying). I tried three
times (working with a mechanic) and it still could not get through the
test. I thought perhaps there is a better way, so I did some research
and determined that the BJ-8 phase 2 was in production from 1964 to
1967...same car for all those years. Arizona does not require testing
for a '66, but does for a '67. Best I can tell, the car was produced
in late '66 or 1967. How can I convince them that the cars are the
same for all those years and should be exempt from testing? I assume
the car passed Federal standards in 1967 for imports but now the state
says it has to pass stricter standards. I thought that was why they
stopped making Healeys...they did not want to put the smog control and
safety devices on the car and ruin it. MG decided to continue and look
at the result...those ugly black rubber bumpers and all that junk on
the engine.
I have researched the archives and have found very little on how to
get this bugger through the dyno testing. I can get the CO and
Hydrocarbons down at idle, but CO fails under loading. Can I use the
defense of when the engine was made should be the deciding factor,
versus when the car was made?
I need some hard evidence to show to the Air Quality people and DMV.
What about other states with emission testing? Does anyone know what
the Federal standards were in 1967 vs. 1966 or where I can find it? I
thought there was a big change and all the emission control stuff had
to be in place for any car imported after January 1, 1968. I would
love to hear from anyone.
Thanks....
Mike Goode '66 or '67 BJ8/40462
Scottsdale, AZ
>>
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 18:46:00 -0400
Subject: Re: anti-theft device
"Mr. Finespanner" wrote:
> Chris,
> For many years I have offered customers a cutoff switch for the fuel pump,
> buried in the carpet inside the car on the bulkhead the pump mounts on and
> hooked into the wire to the pump. Like the battery master switch (and an
> auxillary switch in the white wire ignition circuit) it adds an additional
> measure
> of security.
> Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
Actually this works better than an ignition cut off. One of our customers had
his MGB stolen from the underground parking of his apartment building. The
perts hot wired the ignition and got out of the building and into the middle
of the apartment complex driveway before the car died. You shoulda seen them
boys run..
If they had succeeded in getting an ignition cutout system started they would
have got away with the car.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 18:45:35 EDT
Subject: Re: Detailing an engine (the lazy way) Longish.
In a message dated 06/12/2000 4:51:41 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
coop1@dnai.com writes:
<< I want to detail the engine compartment
WITHOUT removing the engine or any major components. >>
OK, having done this on most of my cars over the years, at least initially, I
guess I can share some advice.
First thing I usually do, even before taking the car off the trailer, is to
stop by the local car wash and pressure wash the engine compartment. It is
amazing what a can of gunk and some hot high pressure water can to to an
engine compartment. Really cleans up the whole mess and makes working under
the hood a whole lot cleaner. Now this isn't the eco-friendly way to do
things, but then again I work in the chemical industry, so who is really
counting. ;o)
Best thing to do is get some engine de-greaser and spray down the old thing.
If the car wash has one of those engine degreaser/white wall cleaner
settings, that works too. Once it has sat with the stuff on it for 15
minutes, then blast away with the hot soapy stuff. Once you have decided
that it is clean enough, or you are dirty enough, give it a final rinse-down
with clean water.
Some things to remember are to wear the oldest clothes you have because all
that gook coming off the car gets all over you. Safety glasses and a ball
cap are also good ideas, otherwise you will get dirt in your eyes, and grease
in your hair. If you are not so anal, then just accept the dirt as part of
the "experience" and take a shower when you get home. I usually do option 2
because I remember #1 about the time I start cleaning.
Other things to remember are rags to go over the carbs and distributor. If
you are on the trailer, this is not so important, but if you drove there,
then you WILL want these. The trailer option I also prefer because mine
allows me to get underneath to spray and clean.
DETAILING
Once you get home you will find that a lot of the old paint has come off your
engine. This is normal, and you want this. If you paint over the stuff
thats loose, then it just flakes off anyway. Don't fret.
The best thing to do is to get a bunch of rags and some cardboard for
painting. You will inevitably have overspray, and these allow you to control
where the paint goes ond doesn't go. To protect things like the firewall, I
just slip a piece of cardboard back there to keep the paint from getting on
there. For carbs and distributors, I wrap these with old rags to keep the
paint from getting on there. Don't get too hung up on this procedure because
you will never get a perfect paint job while the car has the engine in it.
One of my pet peeves is when I see people who have painted their engines
without taking the hoses or belts off. There is nothing more tacky than
having overspray on these because they come off so easily. Spend the extra
10 minutes and take off the hoses and belt.
I would suggest taking off the valve cover and painting that seperately after
you have made your best try at the engine compartment. This is the biggest
piece, and is what most people will see when looking at your engine. If the
car is new, you will probably want to check the valve clearance anyway, so it
has to come off anyway. Being british, the valve cover gasket is probably
leaking too. You will be most pleased with the final finish if painted off
the car.
Another suggestion is the sump. That comes off relatively easily, and makes
for a better looking job when painted off the car because you can get to all
of it then.
Once you have made your best shot at detailing, you are going to want to do
some clean up. When shooting, keep a rag in your hand for any errant spray,
and wipr it off before it has a chance to dry. Afterwards, get some paint
thinner, or mineral spirits and clean up any spots where paint shouldn't be.
(i.e. manifolds, fuel lines, etc.)
The next thing you want to get is some fine steel wool. Use this to clean up
any metal parts which may be rusty. The fuel line and any chrome bits when
polished up will make the engine look a whole lot better. No one likes to
look at rust, and the mechanically declined are attracted to bright shiny
objects. ;o)
Other things to do are to buy new stickers. Yea they stick it to you on
these things, but they do look cool when you have all the right ones under
the hood.
Well that should get you going. If you are leary of the car wash, then the
garden hose will work too. Just go by the car wash early on a Sunday
morning, and no one will mess with you. ;o)
Tim Wallace
'67 BJ8
Fuquay-Varina, NC
From "jack_rosen" <jack_rosen at hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 18:27:31 -0400
Subject: Re: Detailing an engine (the lazy way)!! MAGIC WORD !!!
Oh, Jeez,
Somebody Said Brass Again.
jr
----- Original Message -----
From: "Coop1" <coop1@dnai.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2000 4:36 PM
Subject: Detailing an engine (the lazy way)
>
> This group has been so helpful, I decided to push my luck and ask for more
> advice:
>
> Fortunately, my BJ8 engine compartment is well sorted out and clean but in
> various places the paint has flaked off of the engine, radiator and fan
> leaving an unsightly 1st impression. My guess is the previous owner didn't
> use a primer (or did a poor job). I want to detail the engine compartment
> WITHOUT removing the engine or any major components. The only problem is
> I've never done it before, so I'm not sure where to begin. I'm not
looking
> to create a show car (obviously). I just want a nice respectable (more
or
> less) correct presentation under the hood.
> Any advice as to procedures for this project? I've got the correct paint
> but haven't got the primer yet - what's best here? Also, I've noticed
> several Healey's at local meets with their radiator tops taken down to
> polished brass - what's that about?
> All tips, tricks and traps are welcome. As always.... Thanks in
> advance....
> Randy Harris
>
>
>
From "jack_rosen" <jack_rosen at hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 18:36:54 -0400
Subject: Re: lucas sport coil
The ballast resistor is very important to
the coil/points lifetime as it limits the
current thru the points.
If it's missing expect to 'eat' points
in 2,000 miles I'd guess.
It's effect is an RLC time constant
on how well the coil builds, holds
and discharges energy.
Leaving it off DOES NOT help
anything.
Electronic Ignitions don't usually
use them, as the decay/charge
is controlled by the electronics.
If you're going to change anything,
go electronic, it's the only thing
that's going to add performance
worth speaking of.
jr
----- Original Message -----
From: <dickb@cheerful.com>
To: "Michael Salter" <magicare@home.com>; "austin healey list"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2000 5:42 PM
Subject: Re: lucas sport coil
>
> Mike
>
> Don't the Lucas Standard and Sport Coils have Built-in Resistors? And
don't all Coils usually specify "Built-in Resistor" or Not?
>
> Thanks
>
>
> ---- you wrote:
> >
> > Martin Filardi wrote:
> >
> > > Is it possible to put a lucas sport coil on a BJ8 and just bypass the
ballast resister? What is the ballast resister anyway? I want the bigger
coil but do not want to change the points settup. Will the sport coil be too
much voltage for the points?
> > > TIA, Marty
> >
> > Hi Marty,
> >
> > Your BJ8 should not have a ballast resistor. The ignition system is a
full 12 volt system and the starting system does not include the ballast
resistor bypass wire that allows for the better spark on startup.
> > You can use a Sport coil but IMHO the only improvement is aesthetic.
> > The standard ignition system in your Healey, when in good condition, is
perfectly adequate for that engine in standard tune.
> > --
> > Regards,
> >
> > Mike Salter
> > http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> > >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> >
> >
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
>
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 16:36:05 -0700
Subject: Re: lucas sport coil
It would be easy to prove or disprove by doing a before and after dyno
test
with those modifications. Anyone out there ever do this (besides the
factory
of course ;)))
Cheers,
John Loftus
Michael Salter wrote:
> For my 2 cents worth. If the manufacturer could have got more power by
>fitting a sports coil, adjusting the carbs and opening the plug gap believe me
>they would have done that.
>
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From "Keith R. Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 22:36:47 -0400
Subject: Re: rearbump box question answers
John Rowe wrote:
>
> Hi all
>
> Thanks to all who took the time to respond re my "extra holes in the rear
> bump stop box"
>
> I have since chased up a local unrestored early BT7 and looked at the
> problem item. The rear bump stop box does indeed have the same extra holes
> and these are totally vacant of any attachments.
John,
Well, I cannot hold back any longer. It is time I set this herd of know
nothings straight. John, the two phantom holes you refer to are for
water drainage - one to let the water in and the other to let it out!!!
:)
Keith Pennell
From Mark Fawcett <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 20:37:26 -0700
Subject: steering column question
During the parts cleaning and repairing stage of the restoration of my
'60 BT7 I have discovered a small hole approximately 1/8 inch or so in
diameter in the middle of a dimple 21 3/4 inches from the top of the
steering column. I'm wondering if this is supposed to be there and
it's purpose. I suspect that it is not supposed to be there but thought
I'd check. Thanks in advance.
Mark Fawcett
From Jerry Rude <gdrude at pacbell.net>
Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 18:25:09 -0700
Subject: Re:
The oil may not be thick enough, allowing the pistons to raise too fast. Try 30
weight engine oil and see if it helps.......jerry rude BJ8
Tom Mitchell wrote:
> wondering if your collective knowledge can help me.
> I have rebuilt engine carbs ect. OK OK it know it a MG and this list is
> Healey. Problem is my MG runs and my Healey needs a body, that's another
> story.
>
> Anyway the MG runs great except when I'm cruising at 70mph. Sometimes when I
> let off the gas, the car kinda bogs down for a minute or so. Then as I try
> to accelerate, it will gradually pick up (maybe) and boom take off.
> I'm going to re-check it out, yet so far it's got me stumped.
> at idle and slow running it's fine, it seem only on the highway.
> am I getting too much gas, so that would be floats/jets sticking?
> or maybe the dampness are binding, oil too thick (using 10 weight) I hear
> auto trans fluid works well.
>
> anyway I'm guessing, anyone been threw this and can help me save some time?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Tom
>
> 1966 MGB-GT
> 1966 AH BJ8 (not on the road, yet)
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
From Mark Fawcett <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 20:55:23 -0700
Subject: Re: Detailing an engine (the lazy way)
Use aluminum foil to cover parts that you don't want painted. It forms easily
around fuel lines and odd shaped thingies like the carbs. Like wrapping a
potato for baking.
Mark Fawcett
Coop1 wrote:
> This group has been so helpful, I decided to push my luck and ask for more
> advice:
>
> Fortunately, my BJ8 engine compartment is well sorted out and clean but in
> various places the paint has flaked off of the engine, radiator and fan
> leaving an unsightly 1st impression. My guess is the previous owner didn't
> use a primer (or did a poor job). I want to detail the engine compartment
> WITHOUT removing the engine or any major components. The only problem is
> I've never done it before, so I'm not sure where to begin. I'm not looking
> to create a show car (obviously). I just want a nice respectable (more or
> less) correct presentation under the hood.
> Any advice as to procedures for this project? I've got the correct paint
> but haven't got the primer yet - what's best here? Also, I've noticed
> several Healey's at local meets with their radiator tops taken down to
> polished brass - what's that about?
> All tips, tricks and traps are welcome. As always.... Thanks in
> advance....
> Randy Harris
From Jerry Rude <gdrude at pacbell.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 20:52:42 -0700
Subject: Re: Emission testing help
Mike,
I too had some extreme experiences with getting a 79 Spitfire to pass.
Here are some tips:
1) Get one of the additives which claim to make your car pass, and follow
the directions to the letter (I think mine was called TXP).
2) Change the oil and filter (CO gets stored there I hear)
3) Get the engine in the highest state of tune possible including valve
adjustment/spark plugs/points,etc.
4) Change the air filter
5) Make sure the cooling system is up to par, no overheating while
testing (they wouldn't test mine, were afraid it would overheat --- $600
for a new radiator installed).
If this still doesn't get the job done, I believe there are people who
will get it done for you (read cubic dollars). Ask around town and the
state officials, they may know of someone who is an expert and does it for
a living or as second income.
Good luck,
Jerry Rude
BJ8 in pieces
Mike Goode wrote:
> Listers:
>
> I need some help. I just bought a BJ-8 (40462) here in AZ. Great
> condition, no rust, very original, engine rebuilt with only 10K miles
> on it. I had a BJ-7 in the late 60's and always wanted to own one
> again....so here I am...maybe.
>
> So I go to register it and AZ says it is a '67 and therefore has to go
> through emission testing. It has been registered here for the past 12
> years and each year the previous owner had all kinds of problems
> getting it through (I think he got tired of trying). I tried three
> times (working with a mechanic) and it still could not get through the
> test. I thought perhaps there is a better way, so I did some research
> and determined that the BJ-8 phase 2 was in production from 1964 to
> 1967...same car for all those years. Arizona does not require testing
> for a '66, but does for a '67. Best I can tell, the car was produced
> in late '66 or 1967. How can I convince them that the cars are the
> same for all those years and should be exempt from testing? I assume
> the car passed Federal standards in 1967 for imports but now the state
> says it has to pass stricter standards. I thought that was why they
> stopped making Healeys...they did not want to put the smog control and
> safety devices on the car and ruin it. MG decided to continue and look
> at the result...those ugly black rubber bumpers and all that junk on
> the engine.
>
> I have researched the archives and have found very little on how to
> get this bugger through the dyno testing. I can get the CO and
> Hydrocarbons down at idle, but CO fails under loading. Can I use the
> defense of when the engine was made should be the deciding factor,
> versus when the car was made?
>
> I need some hard evidence to show to the Air Quality people and DMV.
> What about other states with emission testing? Does anyone know what
> the Federal standards were in 1967 vs. 1966 or where I can find it? I
> thought there was a big change and all the emission control stuff had
> to be in place for any car imported after January 1, 1968. I would
> love to hear from anyone.
>
> Thanks....
>
> Mike Goode '66 or '67 BJ8/40462
> Scottsdale, AZ
From Jerry Rude <gdrude at pacbell.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 20:57:01 -0700
Subject: Re: Emission testing help
Mike,
Another thought just occured to me. Can you prove when the car was
made?? I have a 73 Lotus Europa which was registered as a 74. Apparently
the car had sit in a dealers showroom for a few months as on the nameplate
it was made in October of 73. The law in California is anything made
before 74 isn't required to be tested. So I marched down with a letter
from Lotus showing when the car was made and they let me change to a 73
year, the clerk made no big deal about it!! So, if the car was made
before Jan 1, 1967, you may have a chance.
Jerry Rude
BJ8
Mike Goode wrote:
> Listers:
>
> I need some help. I just bought a BJ-8 (40462) here in AZ. Great
> condition, no rust, very original, engine rebuilt with only 10K miles
> on it. I had a BJ-7 in the late 60's and always wanted to own one
> again....so here I am...maybe.
>
> So I go to register it and AZ says it is a '67 and therefore has to go
> through emission testing. It has been registered here for the past 12
> years and each year the previous owner had all kinds of problems
> getting it through (I think he got tired of trying). I tried three
> times (working with a mechanic) and it still could not get through the
> test. I thought perhaps there is a better way, so I did some research
> and determined that the BJ-8 phase 2 was in production from 1964 to
> 1967...same car for all those years. Arizona does not require testing
> for a '66, but does for a '67. Best I can tell, the car was produced
> in late '66 or 1967. How can I convince them that the cars are the
> same for all those years and should be exempt from testing? I assume
> the car passed Federal standards in 1967 for imports but now the state
> says it has to pass stricter standards. I thought that was why they
> stopped making Healeys...they did not want to put the smog control and
> safety devices on the car and ruin it. MG decided to continue and look
> at the result...those ugly black rubber bumpers and all that junk on
> the engine.
>
> I have researched the archives and have found very little on how to
> get this bugger through the dyno testing. I can get the CO and
> Hydrocarbons down at idle, but CO fails under loading. Can I use the
> defense of when the engine was made should be the deciding factor,
> versus when the car was made?
>
> I need some hard evidence to show to the Air Quality people and DMV.
> What about other states with emission testing? Does anyone know what
> the Federal standards were in 1967 vs. 1966 or where I can find it? I
> thought there was a big change and all the emission control stuff had
> to be in place for any car imported after January 1, 1968. I would
> love to hear from anyone.
>
> Thanks....
>
> Mike Goode '66 or '67 BJ8/40462
> Scottsdale, AZ
From "Lance Werner" <brshwrks at bellatlantic.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 05:59:35 -0400
Subject: Front Shocks
Hi all:
The front shocks on my 54 bn1 have a large R X on them. Shouldn't they say
Armstrong? Was this a common replacement brand? Any thoughts? TIA
lance
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 07:04:08 EDT
Subject: Re: Detailing an engine (the lazy way) Longish.
I use aluinum cooking foil (heavey duty) to mask off things I don't want
painted or getting wet when cleaning. Just put it on and form to hold in
place.
Important.........DISCONECT THE BATTERY. The aluminum will conduct eletricity.
Don
NTAHC
From "Alan Tadd" <Alan at tadd1.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 13:00:49 +0100
Subject: Re: BN4 back from the paint shop
Martin...Nice pictures.....
My BJ7 has just had it's chassis repainted ready for reassembly.
Just out of interest why have you attached the outer panels at this
stage?...I intended to get everything completed, powertrain, suspension etc
before even looking at the outer panels....I've not seen this approach
before.
Regards
Alan
BJ7 (UK)
-----Original Message-----
From: Helga+Martin Heim <hm.heim@t-online.de>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: 12 June 2000 11:08
Subject: BN4 back from the paint shop
>
>Hi all
>
>you can have a look on my freshly painted BN4 on high heels <g> on the
>following link. What a great view for me after getting it back. I have the
>passenger door and trunk lid in my home room to look at and touch it from
>time to time. Sounds a bit weird, but I guess most of you can feel with me.
>
>Still a long way to go but the 'dirty' work is done.
>
>Martin
>Germany
>Proud on his painted chassis
>
>http://www.myphotosnow.com/i.asp?H=www.myphotosnow.com&L=16&R=246923&P=3931
9
>&N=EN
>
>I hope it works, it's the first time I have some pictures available in the
>Internet. BTW the &N=EN belongs to the link, I don't have the slightest
idea
>why it is not highlighted.
>
>Customernr.: 03113310
>Filmnr.: 16-246923
>Passwort.: 39319
>
>if necessary.
>
>
>
>
From Peter Brauen <pbrauen at telepak.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 09:42:11 -0500
Subject: Re:
Hey Jerry,
Does your MG have a Gulp Valve fitted? If so it may be opening when you
lift off the accelerator (like it is supposed to) and then sticking open for
a while. Just a thought.---Peter
-----Original Message-----
From: Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net>
To: Tom Mitchell <irishman_2@hotmail.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, June 12, 2000 11:38 PM
Subject: Re:
The oil may not be thick enough, allowing the pistons to raise too fast.
Try 30
weight engine oil and see if it helps.......jerry rude BJ8
Tom Mitchell wrote:
> wondering if your collective knowledge can help me.
> I have rebuilt engine carbs ect. OK OK it know it a MG and this list
is
> Healey. Problem is my MG runs and my Healey needs a body, that's
another
> story.
>
> Anyway the MG runs great except when I'm cruising at 70mph. Sometimes
when I
> let off the gas, the car kinda bogs down for a minute or so. Then as I
try
> to accelerate, it will gradually pick up (maybe) and boom take off.
> I'm going to re-check it out, yet so far it's got me stumped.
> at idle and slow running it's fine, it seem only on the highway.
> am I getting too much gas, so that would be floats/jets sticking?
> or maybe the dampness are binding, oil too thick (using 10 weight) I
hear
> auto trans fluid works well.
>
> anyway I'm guessing, anyone been threw this and can help me save some
time?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Tom
>
> 1966 MGB-GT
> 1966 AH BJ8 (not on the road, yet)
>
________________________________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at
http://www.hotmail.com
From Jimmysmth at aol.com
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 10:48:16 EDT
Subject: Re: Safety Fast
John: Safety Fast was published from April 1959 through November, 1968. I
have the very last issue, and several others from 1968. I have none of those
you are looking for.
Safety Fast is great period reading for those interested in LBC's of the
60's.
(The last issue has a very hot MG midget on two wheels on the cover, and a
fastinating picture tour of Tech Del Ltd., the manufacturer of Minilite
wheels).
Thanks for reminding me I had some of them. Today I dug them out after
several years, and can't put them down.
Jim
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 08:09:11 -0700
Subject: Re: BN4 back from the paint shop
Some reasons might be to conserve space or transport the car chassis
and body home safely.
-Roland
with more cars than garage space
On Tue, 13 Jun 2000 13:00:49 +0100, Alan Tadd wrote:
:: Just out of interest why have you attached the outer panels at this
:: stage?...I intended to get everything completed, powertrain, suspension etc
:: before even looking at the outer panels....I've not seen this approach
:: before.
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 11:46:19 EDT
Subject: Re: Detailing an engine (the lazy way)!! MAGIC WORD !!!
In a message dated 6/12/00 5:01:07 PM, jack_rosen@hotmail.com writes:
<<
Oh, Jeez,
Somebody Said Brass Again.
jr
>>
You realize that you'll void the warranty if you alter the engine by
polishing off the black paint on the radiator. ;-)
Cheers
gary
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at slip.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 10:16:39 -0700
Subject: Missing Engine (cont.)
Have more data points on my high RPM miss in my BJ8 engine:
The engine starts to miss at about 3,800 RPM. The miss occurs even
when the car is sitting.
I've installed new plugs and tried a new rotor. No change. Timing
is nominal. I've tried running lean of peak (stoichiometric) and
rich of peak. No change. I've used my audio diagnostic rig (BMC
radio tuned between stations) to verify even firing of the ignition
and the fuel pump is firing proportional to the demand.
The miss is consistent with the car sitting, previously I had noticed
it only under hard pulling on the road. Will try a different brand of
gas tonight (had been using Shell Premium), and will try an octane
booster.
Anybody got any other ideas?
TIA,
Bob
From "Scheuble, Fred J., HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 13:57:45 -0400
Subject: RE: Missing Engine (cont.)
use the kiss method, can you verify that the advance is working correctly?
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell@slip.net]
Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2000 1:17 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Missing Engine (cont.)
Have more data points on my high RPM miss in my BJ8 engine:
The engine starts to miss at about 3,800 RPM. The miss occurs even
when the car is sitting.
I've installed new plugs and tried a new rotor. No change. Timing
is nominal. I've tried running lean of peak (stoichiometric) and
rich of peak. No change. I've used my audio diagnostic rig (BMC
radio tuned between stations) to verify even firing of the ignition
and the fuel pump is firing proportional to the demand.
The miss is consistent with the car sitting, previously I had noticed
it only under hard pulling on the road. Will try a different brand of
gas tonight (had been using Shell Premium), and will try an octane
booster.
Anybody got any other ideas?
TIA,
Bob
From cstinehelfer at bajamarine.com
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 13:57:09 -0400
Subject: Re: Missing Engine (cont.)
Might have a burnt valve; have you checked your valve lash and recorded it
to determine if any are "stretching"? This is a religious matter with our
VW's and I believe it is an excellent way to prevent severe engine damage
due to dropping a valve. Just keep a log book of clearances before you do
your regulary scheduled adjustment. I know air-cooled engines are more
prone to this behavior but it also applies to any engine where setting the
timing can be a matter more of preference than something set in stone.
From Allen Williams <awill at bama.ua.edu>
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 13:03:38 -0500
Subject: Re: Missing Engine (cont.)
Are you actually getting enough fuel? I've had sediment build up in the
sieves at the carbs that have caused a misfire. Sometimes the rubber fuel
line develops an obstruction inside, or the fuel pump can get hole in the
diaphram. Could you be getting a low tension wire ignition short when the
breaker plate advances? A bad plug wire? Are the metering needles
correctly installed in the carb damper. There is an engraved ring that
marks how far you should push it in.
I've experienced all of these problems at one time or another.
Allen W.
63 BJ7 w/HD8 carbs
Bob Spidell wrote:
> Have more data points on my high RPM miss in my BJ8 engine:
>
> The engine starts to miss at about 3,800 RPM. The miss occurs even
> when the car is sitting.
>
> I've installed new plugs and tried a new rotor. No change. Timing
> is nominal. I've tried running lean of peak (stoichiometric) and
> rich of peak. No change. I've used my audio diagnostic rig (BMC
> radio tuned between stations) to verify even firing of the ignition
> and the fuel pump is firing proportional to the demand.
>
> The miss is consistent with the car sitting, previously I had noticed
> it only under hard pulling on the road. Will try a different brand of
> gas tonight (had been using Shell Premium), and will try an octane
> booster.
>
> Anybody got any other ideas?
>
> TIA,
> Bob
From costan0 at attglobal.net
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 11:09:13 -0700
Subject: Cracks in Crankshaft
I was just informed by my machine shop that the crankshaft cannot be turned
because it has cracks in 3 of the journals. This will slow me down on the
restoration but I am more interested in why it would occur. Any ideas?
Jerry
"Dead" BN4
From "Scheuble, Fred J., HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 14:41:19 -0400
Subject: RE: Missing Engine (cont.)
that's why we LBC car lovers are luny tunes!
-----Original Message-----
From: Allen Williams [mailto:awill@bama.ua.edu]
Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2000 2:04 PM
To: Bob Spidell
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Missing Engine (cont.)
Are you actually getting enough fuel? I've had sediment build up in the
sieves at the carbs that have caused a misfire. Sometimes the rubber fuel
line develops an obstruction inside, or the fuel pump can get hole in the
diaphram. Could you be getting a low tension wire ignition short when the
breaker plate advances? A bad plug wire? Are the metering needles
correctly installed in the carb damper. There is an engraved ring that
marks how far you should push it in.
I've experienced all of these problems at one time or another.
Allen W.
63 BJ7 w/HD8 carbs
Bob Spidell wrote:
> Have more data points on my high RPM miss in my BJ8 engine:
>
> The engine starts to miss at about 3,800 RPM. The miss occurs even
> when the car is sitting.
>
> I've installed new plugs and tried a new rotor. No change. Timing
> is nominal. I've tried running lean of peak (stoichiometric) and
> rich of peak. No change. I've used my audio diagnostic rig (BMC
> radio tuned between stations) to verify even firing of the ignition
> and the fuel pump is firing proportional to the demand.
>
> The miss is consistent with the car sitting, previously I had noticed
> it only under hard pulling on the road. Will try a different brand of
> gas tonight (had been using Shell Premium), and will try an octane
> booster.
>
> Anybody got any other ideas?
>
> TIA,
> Bob
From hm.heim at t-online.de (Helga+Martin Heim)
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 21:33:07 +0200
Subject: Re: BN4 back from the paint shop
Hi Allen,
the way I worked was: First stripped all until just the chassis was left
over. Did all the necessary welding. Then did all the welding on the outer
parts. Attached all outer parts to check for door gaps and general fit.
Dismanteled all outer parts. Painted the chassis and the inner portions of
the outer parts myself in the company I work for (some woodworking company).
Then attached all outer parts again, did some work myself and then handed it
to the paint shop. I thought this way I will get the straightest shines over
all the outer panels. I hope you get what I mean. Now I will again remove
all removable parts and start with the front and back axeles, brakes,
electrics etc.
BTW never had the motor/tranny in the car while doing all the sheet metal
work. I hope, there won't be a too large surprise when refitting the whole
stuff.
Best regards
Martin
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Tadd" <Alan@tadd1.freeserve.co.uk>
To: "Helga+Martin Heim" <hm.heim@t-online.de>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2000 2:00 PM
Subject: Re: BN4 back from the paint shop
> Martin...Nice pictures.....
>
> My BJ7 has just had it's chassis repainted ready for reassembly.
>
> Just out of interest why have you attached the outer panels at this
> stage?...I intended to get everything completed, powertrain, suspension
etc
> before even looking at the outer panels....I've not seen this approach
> before.
>
> Regards
> Alan
> BJ7 (UK)
>
From "Keith R. Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 16:34:47 -0400
Subject: Re: Detailing an engine (the lazy way) Longish.
Healybj8@aol.com wrote:
I wrap these with old rags to keep the
> paint from getting on there.
> Tim Wallace
> '67 BJ8
> Fuquay-Varina, NC
Tim et al,
I find Al foil excellent for wrapping things against overspray. It can
fit the contour of about anything and by crimping it holds itself on!
No need to tape, tie, etc. usually.
Just be sure to recycle it. Recycling Al saves 95% of the energy needed
to create it from bauxite! Yes, 95%
Keith Pennell
From Dick Davis <x856 at email.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 17:39:25 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: General Q about Kingpins
Hi,
What is the current thinking on the need to ream the K pin bushings when
replacing the K pins and bushes with Moss' latest parts?
Thanks,
Dick
-----------------------------------------------
FREE! The World's Best Email Address @email.com
Reserve your name now at http://www.email.com
From Jay Quinn <jpquinn at home.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 18:53:07 -0500
Subject: Re: '62 A-H Sprite 4 Sale - In Parts
Did I mention I was a negotiable?
Jay Quinn wrote:
> Hi All:
>
> I have a 1962 Austin-Healey Sprite MKII VIN# HAN6L2874 for sale, it's
> all in parts (main component parts) and I have lots of spares and
> everything to make a complete care with a left over engine and tranny
> and 2 extra axles, etc...
>
> The car is located in Richardson, TX in an air conditioned garage. The
> body is on stands, and is very straight with minimal rust in the right
> places and everything is there and works and I have the lean free
> title. I have the original engine and tranny, both work but smoky and
> noisey, the other engine & tranny is a 1275 both rebuilt/overhauled from
>
> a 72 Midget with new clutch. Engine driven on @ 20K miles, 0 miles on
> clucth and tranny. Have roll bar, removable hard top, removable soft
> top, bolt on/off windows, 4.22, 3.9 & 3.7 rear axles, Moto-lita
> Steering wheel, rebuilt front and rear end suspension, front disk
> brakes, Vizards tuning book and other hard bound books and 2 paper bound
>
> Haynes and BL books lots and lots of extras and goodies too numerous to
> name off here.
>
> I prefer to sell the whole lot all at once for $3K or less preferred as
> individual main component/parts for best made offers. I will *NOT* box
> and ship the big/large items like engines, trannys, etc... I will *NOT*
>
> remove and sell pieces/parts off the main body/carcass. Whoever buys he
>
> body/carcass gets the lean free title. I prefer someone in the greater
> DFW area to come with their own truck/flat bed and take from premise
> after agreed price(s) has been reached.
>
> If interested, please email me at mailto:jpquinn@home.com, from there I
> will give you my reachable phone numbers.
>
> Thanks and I look forward to hearing from interested buyers,
>
> Jay Quinn
> mailto:jpquinn@home.com
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 19:57:39 EDT
Subject: Fwd: RHD Austin Healey
--part1_72.328836.26782473_boundary
Healey listers -- Anyone in a position to help Michael out? Should be fun.
Cheers
Gary
In a message dated 6/13/00 4:16:06 PM, MGaetano@maainc.com writes:
<< Hi Gary
I am the organizer for the British Invasion in Stowe, VT. I have been
contacted
by MGM Movies to see if we can help them find someone with a right hand Drive
Austin Healey, preferribly a 3000, that could be available onm June 22nd for a
moive shoot in Boston? They will pay the owner to use the car.
Can you help identify a RHD Healey for us?
Happy Motoring
Michael Gaetano,
(781) 237-4950 x17 >>
--part1_72.328836.26782473_boundary
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From: MGaetano@maainc.com
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To: concours@healey.org
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Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 19:09:33 -0400
Subject: RHD Austin Healey
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Hi Gary
I am the organizer for the British Invasion in Stowe, VT. I have been contacted
by MGM Movies to see if we can help them find someone with a right hand Drive
Austin Healey, preferribly a 3000, that could be available onm June 22nd for a
moive shoot in Boston? They will pay the owner to use the car.
Can you help identify a RHD Healey for us?
Happy Motoring
Michael Gaetano,
(781) 237-4950 x17
--part1_72.328836.26782473_boundary--
From "Patrick QUINN" <QUINNP at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 10:33:48 +1000
Subject: Re: Fwd: RHD Austin Healey
I'm available with my car to fly to Boston for the June 22 movie shoot. Just
give me a couple of days to get my passport in order and change the oil in the
car.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
>>> Editorgary@aol.com 14/06/00 9:57:39 >>>
--part1_72.328836.26782473_boundary
Healey listers -- Anyone in a position to help Michael out? Should be fun.
Cheers
Gary
In a message dated 6/13/00 4:16:06 PM, MGaetano@maainc.com writes:
<< Hi Gary
I am the organizer for the British Invasion in Stowe, VT. I have been
contacted
by MGM Movies to see if we can help them find someone with a right hand Drive
Austin Healey, preferribly a 3000, that could be available onm June 22nd for a
moive shoot in Boston? They will pay the owner to use the car.
Can you help identify a RHD Healey for us?
Happy Motoring
Michael Gaetano,
(781) 237-4950 x17 >>
--part1_72.328836.26782473_boundary
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Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 19:09:33 -0400
Subject: RHD Austin Healey
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Hi Gary
I am the organizer for the British Invasion in Stowe, VT. I have been contacted
by MGM Movies to see if we can help them find someone with a right hand Drive
Austin Healey, preferribly a 3000, that could be available onm June 22nd for a
moive shoot in Boston? They will pay the owner to use the car.
Can you help identify a RHD Healey for us?
Happy Motoring
Michael Gaetano,
(781) 237-4950 x17
--part1_72.328836.26782473_boundary--
From "R. Markl/B. Council" <rmarkl at bellsouth.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 19:44:37 -0500
Subject: Re: Front Shocks
Lance,
It has been my understanding that the "RXp" denotes the stiffer shocks
installed by the factory on "factory" 100Ms (front and rear). They
were/are on the front of my 100M when I acquired it in 1979 and I've
seen them on other factory Ms (front and rear). I do not know if this
detail is checked by the concours judges, but it seems like it ought to
be...
This could indicate that a PO added other M/LeMans parts to your
car.....
Caution: If you send them to be rebuilt make sure they understand that
you want the same ones back or you'll get standard ones in exchange.
And make sure they don't rebuild them with standard valves. And, if you
don't care about such esoterica, I'll swap you some standard ones you
can use as cores in exchange. ;-)
Rudi Markl, 100M (factory)
Lance Werner wrote:
>
> Hi all:
> The front shocks on my 54 bn1 have a large R X on them. Shouldn't they say
> Armstrong? Was this a common replacement brand? Any thoughts? TIA
> lance
From Jerry Rude <gdrude at pacbell.net>
Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 18:25:09 -0700
Subject: Re:
The oil may not be thick enough, allowing the pistons to raise too fast. Try 30
weight engine oil and see if it helps.......jerry rude BJ8
Tom Mitchell wrote:
> wondering if your collective knowledge can help me.
> I have rebuilt engine carbs ect. OK OK it know it a MG and this list is
> Healey. Problem is my MG runs and my Healey needs a body, that's another
> story.
>
> Anyway the MG runs great except when I'm cruising at 70mph. Sometimes when I
> let off the gas, the car kinda bogs down for a minute or so. Then as I try
> to accelerate, it will gradually pick up (maybe) and boom take off.
> I'm going to re-check it out, yet so far it's got me stumped.
> at idle and slow running it's fine, it seem only on the highway.
> am I getting too much gas, so that would be floats/jets sticking?
> or maybe the dampness are binding, oil too thick (using 10 weight) I hear
> auto trans fluid works well.
>
> anyway I'm guessing, anyone been threw this and can help me save some time?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Tom
>
> 1966 MGB-GT
> 1966 AH BJ8 (not on the road, yet)
> _________________________________________________X-Mozilla-Status: 0009_
> Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 22:07:36 EDT
Subject: Re: General Q about Kingpins
In a message dated 6/13/00 4:54:21 PM Central Daylight Time, x856@email.com
writes:
<< What is the current thinking on the need to ream the K pin bushings when
replacing the K pins and bushes with Moss' latest parts?
>>
I just did the very same...they must be reamed. The new bushes are supplied
small.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 22:21:33 EDT
Subject: Re: General Q about Kingpins
In a message dated 06/13/2000 9:09:32 PM Central Daylight Time,
Csooch1@aol.com writes:
<< I just did the very same...they must be reamed. >>
HOW, Chris????
Ed
From skip saunders <tfs at mitre.org>
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 22:33:04 -0400
Subject: Re: General Q about Kingpins
you need to do it... Or better still, to have it done for you....
I used Bruce Phillips at Healey Surgeons.... He and Inan are great
Healey folk, and he did an outstanding job for me... You can send him
your old assembly (after you clean it up) and he can put in a new
kingpin (I think he can sell you a new one, or you can buy it elsewhere
and ship him the new ones (that you bought from Moss or wherever) and
he'll do the right thing for reaming the bushings.
I don't remember the cost, but the comfort of knowing it was done
properly is worth it.
Disclaimer: No financial interest... just a satisfied customer.
-Skip-
Dick Davis wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> What is the current thinking on the need to ream the K pin bushings when
> replacing the K pins and bushes with Moss' latest parts?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dick
>
> -----------------------------------------------
> FREE! The World's Best Email Address @email.com
> Reserve your name now at http://www.email.com
From "Chris Woodall" <cwoodall at mnsi.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 22:42:50 -0400
Subject: Grille
Hi Listers:
I am a new participant on the list and hope that the collective knowledge
will help me with my question.
I am nearing completion on a ground-up on HBT7L13469 manufactured December
of 1960. My dilemna is the grille. The car came with a vertical style
grille (properly mounted). The front shroud is the original and doesn't
show any sign of damage that would indicate the grille was replaced at any
time. Is it possible that a car this close to the model change to the MKII
would have a verticla grille as opposed to the MKI horizontal grille? Any
help will be appreciated.
Thanks,
Chris Woodall
Windsor, Ontario, Canada
1960 BT7
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 22:44:58 EDT
Subject: Re: RHD Austin Healey
In a message dated 06/13/2000 7:36:04 PM Central Daylight Time,
QUINNP@det.nsw.edu.au writes:
<< I'm available with my car to fly to Boston for the June 22 movie shoot.
Just give me a couple of days to get my passport in order and change the oil
in the car.
>>
I "accept" the "norm" "perk" is that you require cashews (not "peanuts" for
the (er?) "flight", Patrick??
Enquirin...............nah, can't!!
Chheers...................
(hic) Ed
PS: 'Course I was "guesing you were NOT gonna be involved with a "slo
boat....?)
From "Chris Woodall" <cwoodall at mnsi.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 22:47:16 -0400
Subject: Fw: Grille
Hi Listers:
I am a new participant on the list and hope that the collective knowledge
will help me with my question.
I am nearing completion on a ground-up on HBT7L13469 manufactured December
of 1960. My dilemna is the grille. The car came with a vertical style
grille (properly mounted). The front shroud is the original and doesn't
show any sign of damage that would indicate the grille was replaced at any
time. Is it possible that a car this close to the model change to the MKII
would have a verticla grille as opposed to the MKI horizontal grille? Any
help will be appreciated.
Thanks,
Chris Woodall
Windsor, Ontario, Canada
1960 BT7
From "John J. Black" <transmancat at bbnow.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 23:34:09 -0700
Subject: Around the world in the USA
Hi Guys
The rally cars are now on the Alaskan highway, I have driven this route
myself and it is a great drive. Several of the crews had had verbal warnings
over the speeds that they are doing (I guess that it is either force of
habit trying to catch up with the other competitors or just a relief to be
on decent roads!) They have had a chance meeting with Pam Bell (Ex wife of
Derek) she is doing her own tour of the world in an RV. The Team Healey
Facel is having sump problems as expected, if you remember the sump was
based into the crankcase and they continued to drive like that until the
could have a temporary repair done, It would appear that this repair is now
failing and the crew had to turn back and have the work done again. The list
below shows the positions as of today in Alaska.
The next few off road sections are sure to catch some people out so look out
for some changes in positions. Rutted roads are one thing but washboard
roads are something else I can assure you!
Lennox McNeely/James Walters . . .Packard Touring Sedan 1938 1 Richard
Newman/Julie Simon . . . . . . . . .Citroen 2CV 1952 1 Chris
Claridge-Ware/Stephen Morley-Ham . . Lagonda M45 1934 1 Francesco
Ciriminna/Stelios Vartholomeos . Fiat M'cento 1948 1 William
Secrest/Kelly Secrest . . . . Chrysler Airflow 1935 1 Richard
Ingham/Judy Ingham . . . . Bentley MX Park Ward 1939 1 Chris Dunkley/Jan
Dunkley . . . . .Bentley Open Tourer 1935 1
Janet Chisholm/Trevor Richards . Chevrolet Fangio Coupe 1940 1 William
Balfour/Caroline Balfour . Talbot AV 105 Alpine 1933 1 Francois
Chervaz/Shirin Azari . . Citroen 11B Traction 1953 1
Igor Kolodotschko/David Ellison. . . .Cadillac 62 Coupe 1940 1 Helmut
Karbe/Terry Maxon . . . . . . .Bentley Speed Six 1929 1 Raymond
Carr/David Dabbs . . . . . .Ford V8 Convertible 1939 1
Classic & Historic Competitors
Freddie Giles/Janet Giles . . . . . . . Hillman Hunter 1968
Han le Noble/Joop van Kesteren . . . Porsche 356C Coupe 1964 Yves
Morault/Arlette Morault .Peugeot 404 Berline Coupe 1965 Roberto
Chiodi/Maria Degli Esposti .Lancia Flavia Coupe 1964 Nigel
Broderick/Paula Broderick . .Mercedes-Benz 250SL 1967 Claude
Picasso/Sylvie Vautier . .Mercedes 230SL Pagoda 1964
Karl Busch/Sami Busch/Kaya Busch . . .Mercedes-Benz 190 1956 Edmund
Holfeld/Justin McCarthy . . . . . . Ford Mustang 1965 Dominicus
Meeus/Johanna Meeus-Jonker Jaguar XK140 Coupe 1955
The Hon. Barry Weir/Ronald Brons . . Aston Martin DB2/4 1954
Rick Dyke-Price/Stuart Onyett . Austin Healey 3000 MkI 1959 Thomas
Noor/Maria Bouvier-Noor . . .Mercedes-Benz 250SE 1966 David
Hughes/Tony Sinclair . . . . . . .Rover 80 Saloon 1960
Paul Rolph/Joanna Rolph . . . . . .Mercedes-Benz 230SL 1964 Phillippa
McLachlan/Christine Jones . . . . . Rover 80 1960
Jean Steinhauser/Paul Steinhauser Porsche 356 T5 Coupe 1964 Peter
Hunt/Ann Hunt . . . . . .Austin Healey 3000 MkII 1962
Kevin Clemens/Mark Rinkel . .Mercedes Benz 220S Ponton 1959
Tom Hayes/Michael Greenwood . . . .Chevrolet 210 Sedan 1955 Brian
Rhatigan/Rachel Kiely. .Mercedes-Benz 220SE Coupe 1963
Paul Bessade/Michel Magnin . . . . . . . Pontiac Chief' 1942
Ralph Jones/Dorothy Jones . . . . . . Aston Martin DB4 1961 Joseph
Capristano/Jose Pimentel . . . . Bentley R-Type 1953
Xavier Beaumartin/Phillipe Rochat Studebaker Commander 1953 Karsten Le
Blanc/Andrew Powell . . . . . . Facel Vega 6 1964
Pat Brooks/Mary Brooks . . . Buick Model 59 Woody Wagon 1949
David Laing/Mary Laing . . . . . Aston Martin DB2 Coupe 1952
Regards
John J Black
Waterloo Drivetrain Systems
http://www.waterloo-dtr.com
From pcowper at webtv.net (Peter Cowper)
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 23:09:15 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: RE: BJ8 Misfiring
After firing up my 1960 BT7 at a local cruise night and leaving two
black soot marks on the A&W Drive-In retaining wall a few years ago, I
got the bright idea to slip the CO meter probe that I use to set my
911's CIS fuel injection into my Austin-Healey's exhaust pipe. My
carburetors were rebuilt back in the 1960's by a local British car shop
and have about 5,000 to 8,000 miles since. They have always purred at
idle and run strong.
I was going to make my Healey environmentally friendly by setting the
meter at the 14:1 or so the carbureted engine scale shows as a white
area midway between the green lean side of the scale (where my 911
Porsche engine's reading resides) and the red rich side of the scale.
The needle promptly swung fully against the pin on the left red "rich"
side of the scale. I began very carefully adjusting both carburetors,
moving the exhaust probe back and forth between the twin tail pipes.
When I had it leaned into the white center area of the scale I took it
out for a test drive. It began to miss very badly above 2500 or so and
would only accelerate with the choke pulled out.
I started enrichening the mixture until the misfiring quit, but it still
would not accelerate very strongly. At the point where it once again
accelerated strongly, it is about a 1/8 turn lean from where black soot
begins to flow out of the tail pipe at idle.
I don't know how anyone could ever get one of these beasts to pass smog.
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
From "Lance Werner" <brshwrks at bellatlantic.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 05:59:12 -0400
Subject: Re: Front Shocks
Rudi:
Thanks for the info. I have already had Apple Hydraulics rebuild them and
insisted they return my originals; they did, however I would have no idea
what valves they used in the rebuild. I haven't detected any other 'M'
enhancements on this Healey.
lance
54 bn1
----- Original Message -----
From: R. Markl/B. Council <rmarkl@bellsouth.net>
To: Lance Werner <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
Cc: Healey E-mail list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2000 8:44 PM
Subject: Re: Front Shocks
>
> Lance,
>
> It has been my understanding that the "RXp" denotes the stiffer shocks
> installed by the factory on "factory" 100Ms (front and rear). They
> were/are on the front of my 100M when I acquired it in 1979 and I've
> seen them on other factory Ms (front and rear). I do not know if this
> detail is checked by the concours judges, but it seems like it ought to
> be...
>
> This could indicate that a PO added other M/LeMans parts to your
> car.....
>
> Caution: If you send them to be rebuilt make sure they understand that
> you want the same ones back or you'll get standard ones in exchange.
> And make sure they don't rebuild them with standard valves. And, if you
> don't care about such esoterica, I'll swap you some standard ones you
> can use as cores in exchange. ;-)
>
> Rudi Markl, 100M (factory)
>
> Lance Werner wrote:
> >
> > Hi all:
> > The front shocks on my 54 bn1 have a large R X on them. Shouldn't they
say
> > Armstrong? Was this a common replacement brand? Any thoughts? TIA
> > lance
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at go.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 05:39:19 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: "Magna-Guard"
Hi all,
The club received a sample of a product and I'd like to hear about anyone's
experiences with it, and perhaps some assessments from some of the list's
technically informed.
The product is named "Magna-Guard" and basically it is just a magnet, about 1/4
inch x 1/4 inch x 1 inch. You're instructed to place it in the oil filter
canister (this assumes a conventional metal screw-on type oil filter) and then
install the oil filter as usual. When you remove and discard the oil filter,
you just discard the magnet (the "Magna-Guard") with it since (a) it would be a
bit of a hassle to get it out and clean it and reuse it, and (b) they sell more
that way.
The whole idea is that this magnet attracts and holds metal particles that are
so small that they go through the filter and would otherwise continue to
circulate in the engine oil, presumably causing wear. There are several
testimonials and reports on results of trials enclosed with the sample, and
needless to say all of the reports are glowing.
To use this on a big Healey that still has the original equipment oil filter
canister with a felt (or paper) element inserted, I guess you'd have to stick
the magnet to the inside of the canister wall and then insert the filter
element; could be less effective that way since the flow of oil over/near the
magnet would be less than in a conventional oil filter where the magnet would
be in the central cavity where all of the oil flows on each pass.
Anyway, anyone know anything about this product? Is it a good idea or snake
oil or something in between? Thanks.
Cheers,
Reid
http://www.healey.org
___________________________________________________
GO Network Mail
Get Your Free, Private E-mail at http://mail.go.com
From "Scheuble, Fred J., HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 08:58:02 -0400
Subject: RE: General Q about Kingpins
does anyone know where this reamer can be purchased?
-----Original Message-----
From: Csooch1@aol.com [mailto:Csooch1@aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2000 10:08 PM
To: x856@email.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: General Q about Kingpins
In a message dated 6/13/00 4:54:21 PM Central Daylight Time, x856@email.com
writes:
<< What is the current thinking on the need to ream the K pin bushings when
replacing the K pins and bushes with Moss' latest parts?
>>
I just did the very same...they must be reamed. The new bushes are supplied
small.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
From "James Sailer" <sailer at srv.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 07:17:02 -0600
Subject: Any words of wisom for BJ8 front bearings
Greetings all,
Are there any words of wisom or things to note on replacing front wheel
bearings? (Actually I'm replacing my front hub). Looks pretty straight
forward.
Thanks in advance!
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8 - with motor back in (still needing final plumbing) and new BWW 72
spoke wheels in the shop!
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 09:34:42 EDT
Subject: Re: "Magna-Guard"
In a message dated 6/14/2000 07:48:03 Central Daylight Time, AHCUSA@go.com
writes:
<< The product is named "Magna-Guard" >>
I guess it can't hurt, unless it gets in engine some way. I have seen some
that wrap around the filter canister to help trap ferrous metal. The catch is
if you have steel floating around in the oil you have a serious problem. Now
if they could only catch bearing bronze.
Don Lenschow
NTAHC
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 09:34:40 EDT
Subject: Re: General Q about Kingpins
In a message dated 6/14/2000 08:05:08 Central Daylight Time,
fjscheuble@hiserv-na.com writes:
<< does anyone know where this reamer can be purchased? >>
Just made one for the North Texas AH Club. Members can use it when needed.
Just one of the perks of belonging to our club.
Don Lenschow
NTAHC
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 09:39:17 EDT
Subject: Re: "Magna-Guard"
Hi Reid,
I heard along time ago about people putting a magnet on the oil pan itself to
gather these metal filings. I guess the only time you cleaned it was when
you took down the oil pan.
How about magnet wrist bracelets? Lots of people swear by them. This could
clear up the 'nut behind the wheel' problem.
Rudy Streng in NC
From "P.M. Pollock" <pollpete at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 06:50:27 -0700
Subject: Re: Any words of wisom for BJ8 front bearings
To get the proper end-play you will likely have to do several trial assemblys
using different spacer shim sets. The adjustment shims are prone to slipping
down as you do the assembly so that, when you tighten down, they become
distorted on the edge (probably still usable but hard to handle). Put a
little grease on them and the spacer face to "glue" them in place as you
assemble. Keep the outside face of the last shim clean so the outside race
doesn't move it as you assemble. Be sure to do at least one assembly with
too little shim thickness so that taking up on the nut (to where the wheel
just starts to drag) sets the inner bearing and spacer into place.
The old down-and-dirty measure of end-play: if you can barely move the
outside washer under the nut with a twist of a screwdriver you have it about
right.
Pete Pollock
BJ7
N. California
James Sailer wrote:
> Greetings all,
>
> Are there any words of wisom or things to note on replacing front wheel
> bearings? (Actually I'm replacing my front hub). Looks pretty straight
> forward.
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> Jim Sailer
> 66 BJ8 - with motor back in (still needing final plumbing) and new BWW 72
> spoke wheels in the shop!
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 10:10:42 -0400
Subject: Re: Cracks in Crankshaft
costan0@attglobal.net wrote:
> I was just informed by my machine shop that the crankshaft cannot be turned
> because it has cracks in 3 of the journals. This will slow me down on the
> restoration but I am more interested in why it would occur. Any ideas?
>
> Jerry
> "Dead" BN4
Hi Jerry,
We had a brief discussion recently about setting ignition timing "by ear". My
engine design and setup bible "Repco Engine Service Manual" states on page 113.
"for maximum performance and life from the engine the manufacturers
settings MUST be adhered to and under no circumstances should additional
advance be given. Setting ignition timing by the onset of detonation is NOT
good practice and can lead to over advance with its consequent ill effects.
When ignition timing is adjusted by this method, the engine may "feel" to be
producing more power, but this is usually the result of the greater vibration
due to the extra peak combustion pressure rise rates and, in fact, the output,
efficiency and the durability of the engine are adversely affected."
The other very important thing to check is the crankshaft vibration damper
(damperener or harmonic balancer in the U.S.). It must be fitted, tight and in
good condition to be effective.
I know that this wouldn't help fix your crankshaft but it mau give you some
insight into the cause of the fatigue cracking.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 10:26:55 -0400
Subject: Re: Fwd: RHD Austin Healey
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> --part1_72.328836.26782473_boundary
>
> Healey listers -- Anyone in a position to help Michael out? Should be fun.
> Cheers
> Gary
>
> In a message dated 6/13/00 4:16:06 PM, MGaetano@maainc.com writes:
>
> << Hi Gary
>
> I am the organizer for the British Invasion in Stowe, VT. I have been
> contacted
> by MGM Movies to see if we can help them find someone with a right hand Drive
> Austin Healey, preferribly a 3000, that could be available onm June 22nd for a
> moive shoot in Boston? They will pay the owner to use the car.
>
> Can you help identify a RHD Healey for us?
>
> Happy Motoring
>
> Michael Gaetano,
> (781) 237-4950 x17 >>
>
> --part1_72.328836.26782473_boundary
> Content-Disposition: inline
>
> Return-Path: <MGaetano@maainc.com>
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> Message-ID: <852568FD.007F37F1.00@mail.maainc.com>
> Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 19:09:33 -0400
> Subject: RHD Austin Healey
> Mime-Version: 1.0
> Content-Disposition: inline
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>
> Hi Gary
>
> I am the organizer for the British Invasion in Stowe, VT. I have been
>contacted
> by MGM Movies to see if we can help them find someone with a right hand Drive
> Austin Healey, preferribly a 3000, that could be available onm June 22nd for a
> moive shoot in Boston? They will pay the owner to use the car.
>
> Can you help identify a RHD Healey for us?
>
> Happy Motoring
>
> Michael Gaetano,
> (781) 237-4950 x17
>
> --part1_72.328836.26782473_boundary--
I've got UJB141 here at the moment. It is RHD and it has big numbers on the
sides to boot. Think the owner would notice if it was missing for a few days? I
would enjoy a blast down the interstate to Boston!!!
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 10:27:04 -0400
Subject: Re: Fwd: RHD Austin Healey
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> --part1_72.328836.26782473_boundary
>
> Healey listers -- Anyone in a position to help Michael out? Should be fun.
> Cheers
> Gary
>
> In a message dated 6/13/00 4:16:06 PM, MGaetano@maainc.com writes:
>
> << Hi Gary
>
> I am the organizer for the British Invasion in Stowe, VT. I have been
> contacted
> by MGM Movies to see if we can help them find someone with a right hand Drive
> Austin Healey, preferribly a 3000, that could be available onm June 22nd for a
> moive shoot in Boston? They will pay the owner to use the car.
>
> Can you help identify a RHD Healey for us?
>
> Happy Motoring
>
> Michael Gaetano,
> (781) 237-4950 x17 >>
>
> --part1_72.328836.26782473_boundary
> Content-Disposition: inline
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> From: MGaetano@maainc.com
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> To: concours@healey.org
> Message-ID: <852568FD.007F37F1.00@mail.maainc.com>
> Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 19:09:33 -0400
> Subject: RHD Austin Healey
> Mime-Version: 1.0
> Content-Disposition: inline
> X-Mailer: Unknown
>
> Hi Gary
>
> I am the organizer for the British Invasion in Stowe, VT. I have been
>contacted
> by MGM Movies to see if we can help them find someone with a right hand Drive
> Austin Healey, preferribly a 3000, that could be available onm June 22nd for a
> moive shoot in Boston? They will pay the owner to use the car.
>
> Can you help identify a RHD Healey for us?
>
> Happy Motoring
>
> Michael Gaetano,
> (781) 237-4950 x17
>
> --part1_72.328836.26782473_boundary--
I've got UJB141 here at the moment. It is RHD and it has big numbers on the
sides to boot. Think the owner would notice if it was missing for a few days? I
would enjoy a blast down the interstate to Boston!!!
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 11:37:55 EDT
Subject: Fwd: RHD Austin Healey
--part1_84.6998e87.267900d3_boundary
Listers - This is another contact for the individual looking for a rhd Healey
in the Mass area for a movie gig.
Cheers
Gary
In a message dated 6/13/00 5:16:44 PM, MGaetano@maainc.com writes:
<< Thanks for the posting. If your listeners prefer they can contact me by
email
at mgaetano@maainc.com
Happy Motoring
Michael F. Gaetano, >>
--part1_84.6998e87.267900d3_boundary
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From: MGaetano@maainc.com
To: Editorgary@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 20:10:36 -0400
Subject: Re: Fwd: RHD Austin Healey
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Thanks for the posting. If your listeners prefer they can contact me by email
at mgaetano@maainc.com
Happy Motoring
Michael F. Gaetano,
--part1_84.6998e87.267900d3_boundary--
From "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virginnet.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 16:44:40 +0100
Subject: RE: Fwd: RHD Austin Healey
Or me and my little BT7 can pop over the pond from
Devon UK?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Patrick QUINN
Sent: 14 June 2000 01:34
To: Editorgary@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Cc: MGaetano@maainc.com
Subject: Re: Fwd: RHD Austin Healey
I'm available with my car to fly to Boston for the June 22 movie shoot. Just
give me a couple of days to get my passport in order and change the oil in
the car.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
>>> Editorgary@aol.com 14/06/00 9:57:39 >>>
--part1_72.328836.26782473_boundary
Healey listers -- Anyone in a position to help Michael out? Should be fun.
Cheers
Gary
In a message dated 6/13/00 4:16:06 PM, MGaetano@maainc.com writes:
<< Hi Gary
I am the organizer for the British Invasion in Stowe, VT. I have been
contacted
by MGM Movies to see if we can help them find someone with a right hand
Drive
Austin Healey, preferribly a 3000, that could be available onm June 22nd for
a
moive shoot in Boston? They will pay the owner to use the car.
Can you help identify a RHD Healey for us?
Happy Motoring
Michael Gaetano,
(781) 237-4950 x17 >>
--part1_72.328836.26782473_boundary
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To: concours@healey.org
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Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 19:09:33 -0400
Subject: RHD Austin Healey
Mime-Version: 1.0
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Hi Gary
I am the organizer for the British Invasion in Stowe, VT. I have been
contacted
by MGM Movies to see if we can help them find someone with a right hand
Drive
Austin Healey, preferribly a 3000, that could be available onm June 22nd for
a
moive shoot in Boston? They will pay the owner to use the car.
Can you help identify a RHD Healey for us?
Happy Motoring
Michael Gaetano,
(781) 237-4950 x17
--part1_72.328836.26782473_boundary--
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 12:16:10 -0400
Subject: Re: Any words of wisom for BJ8 front bearings
James Sailer wrote:
> Greetings all,
>
> Are there any words of wisom or things to note on replacing front wheel
> bearings? (Actually I'm replacing my front hub). Looks pretty straight
> forward.
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> Jim Sailer
> 66 BJ8 - with motor back in (still needing final plumbing) and new BWW 72
> spoke wheels in the shop!
Hi Jim,
Most of the cars we get in have had the front wheel bearings "flat rated".To
us this means that the spacers and shims have been thrown ayaw and the stub
axle tighteded up "finger tight". The design of the front stub axle on these
cars, and most other BMC cars, is completely different from most Detroit Iron
and even a Triumph.
The inner races of the bearings and the bearing spacer and shims form part of
the stub axle structure. Running the car with the "normal just over finger
tight" stub axle nut is, I understand, the major cause of failure of the stub
axles.
The wheel bearing clearance should be adjusted according to the manual and
the nut tightened to between 40 & 70 lb ft. This produces, in effect a stub
axle which is much thicker (including the additional diameter of the
bearings) which in turn minimizes any flexing of the stub axle under changing
loads.
Do it once. Do it right.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Wed Jun 14 12:33:11 2000
Subject: Re: "Magna-Guard"
I've never heard of this thing, but I probably wouldn't spend the money on it.
I have been using stick-on magnets on my canister type oil filters for years.
I learned this trick from an old drag racer who used to wrap his filters in the
flexible "refrigerator magnet" material to trap any metal particles which might
go through the filter. He would buy sheets of the stuff and then cut them to
fit around the filter. I just stick on those refrigerator magnets people are
always giving away rather than go through the expense of buying a sheet of the
stuff.
I guess the reason why they want you to discard these things afterwards is
because the heat of the oil may deform the things. After 3000 miles a
refrigerator magnet looks a bit worn from the heat. They last about 3 oil
changes and then get to the point where they don't want to stick anymore.
For the big healey, I just stick an old speaker magnet onto the pan beside the
drain plug. when its time to change the oil, I take off the magnet, then pull
the plug. Any metal that was trapped by the magnet gets washed out with the
oil.
My 2 cents.
Tim Wallace
'67 BJ8
Fuquay-Varina, NC
From "P.M. Pollock" <pollpete at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 09:34:53 -0700
Subject: Re: Any words of wisom for BJ8 front bearings
Jim-
Allow me to remove foot from mouth re my previous bearing message:
The advice about gluing the shims & pre-tightening stands, but strike the
"down-and-dirty" end-play part. That was good advice- for my Karmann-Ghia- but
not for the Healey. It's been so long since I've done the Austin hubs I'd
forgotten: as Michael Salter says, Healeys use a locked assembly with end-float
provided through proper spacing by use of the shims, not by slack in the
lock-nut.
Thank you Michael and isn't this list is great.
Pete Pollock
BJ7
N. California
Michael Salter wrote:
> James Sailer wrote:
>
> > Greetings all,
> >
> > Are there any words of wisom or things to note on replacing front wheel
> > bearings? (Actually I'm replacing my front hub). Looks pretty straight
> > forward.
> >
> > Thanks in advance!
> >
> > Jim Sailer
> > 66 BJ8 - with motor back in (still needing final plumbing) and new BWW 72
> > spoke wheels in the shop!
>
> Hi Jim,
>
> Most of the cars we get in have had the front wheel bearings "flat rated".To
> us this means that the spacers and shims have been thrown ayaw and the stub
> axle tighteded up "finger tight". The design of the front stub axle on these
> cars, and most other BMC cars, is completely different from most Detroit Iron
> and even a Triumph.
> The inner races of the bearings and the bearing spacer and shims form part of
> the stub axle structure. Running the car with the "normal just over finger
> tight" stub axle nut is, I understand, the major cause of failure of the stub
> axles.
> The wheel bearing clearance should be adjusted according to the manual and
> the nut tightened to between 40 & 70 lb ft. This produces, in effect a stub
> axle which is much thicker (including the additional diameter of the
> bearings) which in turn minimizes any flexing of the stub axle under changing
> loads.
> Do it once. Do it right.
>
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Wed Jun 14 12:36:15 2000
Subject: Re: Any words of wisom for BJ8 front bearings
Yea, make yourself one of those grease cap pullers if you don't have one. The
rest of the job is pretty simple. Well I take that back. Shimming the bearings
is a pain in the butt. (Put the hub on, tighten. Too tight. Take the hub
off, insert shims, put the hub on, too big. Take the hub off...) After the
thirt time you take the hub off you start to feel it in your back.
Tim
In a message dated Wed, 14 Jun 2000 9:22:51 AM Eastern Daylight Time, "James
Sailer" <sailer@srv.net> writes:
<<
Greetings all,
Are there any words of wisom or things to note on replacing front wheel
bearings? (Actually I'm replacing my front hub). Looks pretty straight
forward.
Thanks in advance!
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8 - with motor back in (still needing final plumbing) and new BWW 72
spoke wheels in the shop!
>>
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 11:44:52 -0500
Subject: RE: Any words of wisdom for BJ8 front bearings
Hi Jim,
Just make sure you drive in the races nice and square. I got nervous using
the "tap around the circumference" method and opted to use a hand press.
That way it's hard to get the race cocked.
As for shimming (if that's part of your question) I did it with no grease at
all in the assembly. If you are careful, the shims stay in place quite
well. When it's dry you get a very accurate reading for end-float which
IMHO can be altered with grease present; once the bearing starts spinning
the grease will change its film thickness.
Get extra shims, at least the .030" one. The manual says to add shims to
cause a readable float, after which you subtract the right shims.
Regards,
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: James Sailer [mailto:sailer@srv.net]
Sent: Wednesday, June 14, 2000 6:17 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: Any words of wisom for BJ8 front bearings
Greetings all,
Are there any words of wisom or things to note on replacing front wheel
bearings? (Actually I'm replacing my front hub). Looks pretty straight
forward.
Thanks in advance!
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8 - with motor back in (still needing final plumbing) and new BWW 72
spoke wheels in the shop!
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 13:06:56 -0400
Subject: Re: "Magna-Guard"
If I'm not mistaken (I don't get my BT7 until the last week in June, so I
can't check this out), the sump drain plug has small magnets sitting on its
tip to perform the same service.
Somebody touts a magnetic contraption to clamp around the fuel lines on
diesel auxillary engines. Supposedly, the magnet traps out some of the dead
bugs that magically seem to thrive in the inevitable boundary layer between
water and diesel fuel in marine tanks. Last I knew from biology 40 years
ago, only ferrous materials were attracted to magnets and bus/bacteria are
neither magnetic nor ferrous.
Lee
Northern Virginia
>The club received a sample of a product and I'd like to hear about anyone's
experiences with it, and perhaps some assessments from some of the list's
technically informed.
>
>The product is named "Magna-Guard" and basically it is just a magnet, about
1/4 inch x 1/4 inch x 1 inch
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 15:19:46 -0400
Subject: Heritage Certificate
Does anyone out there know if Heritage can supply a certificate for a
1968 Aussie assembled Cooper S?
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From Ian Nelson <ian at Remedy.COM>
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 12:22:02 -0700
Subject: Electrical Fan
It is 100+ degrees here in the San Francisco Bay Area and my Healey ('58
100-6) does not like it one bit.
Being rather uneducated as far as auto mechanics is concerned, I wasn't sure
what I could do to the cooling system itself to stop my car from
overheating.
So I threw money at the problem and purchased an electrical fan. Can someone
please give me some advice regarding the installation. What do I need to do
as far as dealing with the car's positive ground?
The fan I purchased is from Moss:
Hayden 12" Fan
#3680
Thermostatically Controlled: On - 185 Degrees, Off 165 Degrees
(Thermostat attaches to Radiator)
Thanks,
Ian Nelson
'58 100-6
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 15:30:43 -0400
Subject: Michael Border
sorry to bomb....
If Michael Border, Alberta, CANADA is on the list would he contact me
please.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From "Margaret Gay" <mgay at netropolis.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 14:22:00 -0500
Subject: Father's Day Gift Surprise
Listers:
I am the wife trying to figure out how to get the new healey restoration
book that was just issued for father's day (yes I know that would be Sunday)
Randy flashed something at me a while ago and said that was what he wanted
for father's day and now of course I have started the search - any help
would be appreciated as to how and where to order said book - with of course
overnight delivery service...please do not respond after 5:00PM CST - or he
will figure out I cheated and asked all of you
Thanks
Peggy Sue Gay - asleep at the wheel...
From "Tom Mitchell" <irishman_2 at hotmail.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 16:03:18 EDT
Subject: Re: Any words of wisdom for BJ8 front bearings
True, yet I just found (ok maybe I'm slow) but if you lube the bearings with
a light weight oil, then install and re-install until you get the shims
correct, then grease it. It will save you time and maybe a set of bearings.
The grease interferes with the feel that you need to judge the play.
>From: Healybj8@aol.com
>Reply-To: Healybj8@aol.com
>To: <sailer@srv.net>
>CC: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: Any words of wisom for BJ8 front bearings
>Date: Wed Jun 14 12:36:15 2000
>
>Yea, make yourself one of those grease cap pullers if you don't have one.
>The rest of the job is pretty simple. Well I take that back. Shimming the
>bearings is a pain in the butt. (Put the hub on, tighten. Too tight.
>Take the hub off, insert shims, put the hub on, too big. Take the hub
>off...) After the thirt time you take the hub off you start to feel it in
>your back.
>
>Tim
>
>In a message dated Wed, 14 Jun 2000 9:22:51 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
>"James Sailer" <sailer@srv.net> writes:
>
><<
>Greetings all,
>
>Are there any words of wisom or things to note on replacing front wheel
>bearings? (Actually I'm replacing my front hub). Looks pretty straight
>forward.
>
>Thanks in advance!
>
>Jim Sailer
>66 BJ8 - with motor back in (still needing final plumbing) and new BWW 72
>spoke wheels in the shop!
>
> >>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
From "jim t.p. ryan" <ryan at jimryan.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 13:18:36 -0700
Subject: Re: Father's Day Gift Surprise
Wow, when ever I flash something she says she's not interested....
Jim
64 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: Margaret Gay mgay@netropolis.net
Sent: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 14:22:00 -0500
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Father's Day Gift Surprise
Listers:
I am the wife trying to figure out how to get the new healey restoration
book that was just issued for father's day (yes I know that would be Sunday)
Randy flashed something at me a while ago and said that was what he wanted
for father's day and now of course I have started the search - any help
would be appreciated as to how and where to order said book - with of course
overnight delivery service...please do not respond after 5:00PM CST - or he
will figure out I cheated and asked all of you
Thanks
Peggy Sue Gay - asleep at the wheel...
___________________________________________________________________________
Visit http://www.visto.com/info, your free web-based communications center.
Visto.com. Life on the Dot.
From "CATUDALJ" <CATUDALJ at email.msn.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 16:19:07 -0400
Subject: Bouncing Tach BJ8
Have had a problem with the electronic tach on my BJ8 bouncing at all
speeds. Have checked points, condensor, loop wire behind the tach,
wires fron the coil. Any Ideas?
TIA
Joe
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 16:32:50 -0400
Subject: Re: Any words of wisdom for BJ8 front bearings
Tom Mitchell wrote:
> True, yet I just found (ok maybe I'm slow) but if you lube the bearings with
> a light weight oil, then install and re-install until you get the shims
> correct, then grease it. It will save you time and maybe a set of bearings.
> The grease interferes with the feel that you need to judge the play.
>
> >From: Healybj8@aol.com
> >Reply-To: Healybj8@aol.com
> >To: <sailer@srv.net>
> >CC: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> >Subject: Re: Any words of wisom for BJ8 front bearings
> >Date: Wed Jun 14 12:36:15 2000
> >
> >Yea, make yourself one of those grease cap pullers if you don't have one.
> >The rest of the job is pretty simple. Well I take that back. Shimming the
> >bearings is a pain in the butt. (Put the hub on, tighten. Too tight.
> >Take the hub off, insert shims, put the hub on, too big. Take the hub
> >off...) After the thirt time you take the hub off you start to feel it in
> >your back.
> >
> >Tim
> >
> >In a message dated Wed, 14 Jun 2000 9:22:51 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> >"James Sailer" <sailer@srv.net> writes:
> >
> ><<
> >Greetings all,
> >
> >Are there any words of wisom or things to note on replacing front wheel
> >bearings? (Actually I'm replacing my front hub). Looks pretty straight
> >forward.
> >
> >Thanks in advance!
> >
> >Jim Sailer
> >66 BJ8 - with motor back in (still needing final plumbing) and new BWW 72
> >spoke wheels in the shop!
> >
Another good idea is to install the seal after you have got the shim measurement
correct!!
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From "Scheuble, Fred J., HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 16:43:18 -0400
Subject: RE: Bouncing Tach BJ8
shut the engine off it will stop bouncing, no seriously check your grounds
-----Original Message-----
From: CATUDALJ [mailto:CATUDALJ@email.msn.com]
Sent: Wednesday, June 14, 2000 4:19 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Bouncing Tach BJ8
Have had a problem with the electronic tach on my BJ8 bouncing at all
speeds. Have checked points, condensor, loop wire behind the tach,
wires fron the coil. Any Ideas?
TIA
Joe
From "Scheuble, Fred J., HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 16:56:27 -0400
Subject: RE: Father's Day Gift Surprise
yeah, some people just don't know when they are truly blessed, a loud AMEN
everybody
-----Original Message-----
From: jim t.p. ryan [mailto:ryan@jimryan.com]
Sent: Wednesday, June 14, 2000 4:19 PM
To: mgay@netropolis.net; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Father's Day Gift Surprise
Wow, when ever I flash something she says she's not interested....
Jim
64 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: Margaret Gay mgay@netropolis.net
Sent: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 14:22:00 -0500
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Father's Day Gift Surprise
Listers:
I am the wife trying to figure out how to get the new healey restoration
book that was just issued for father's day (yes I know that would be Sunday)
Randy flashed something at me a while ago and said that was what he wanted
for father's day and now of course I have started the search - any help
would be appreciated as to how and where to order said book - with of course
overnight delivery service...please do not respond after 5:00PM CST - or he
will figure out I cheated and asked all of you
Thanks
Peggy Sue Gay - asleep at the wheel...
___________________________________________________________________________
Visit http://www.visto.com/info, your free web-based communications center.
Visto.com. Life on the Dot.
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 16:01:51 -0500
Subject: RE: Father's Day Gift Surprise
Remember, the book has a "Big" Healey on the cover....
-----Original Message-----
From: jim t.p. ryan [mailto:ryan@jimryan.com]
Sent: Wednesday, June 14, 2000 1:19 PM
To: mgay@netropolis.net; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Father's Day Gift Surprise
Wow, when ever I flash something she says she's not interested....
Jim
64 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: Margaret Gay mgay@netropolis.net
Sent: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 14:22:00 -0500
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Father's Day Gift Surprise
Listers:
I am the wife trying to figure out how to get the new healey restoration
book that was just issued for father's day (yes I know that would be Sunday)
Randy flashed something at me a while ago and said that was what he wanted
for father's day and now of course I have started the search - any help
would be appreciated as to how and where to order said book - with of course
overnight delivery service...please do not respond after 5:00PM CST - or he
will figure out I cheated and asked all of you
Thanks
Peggy Sue Gay - asleep at the wheel...
___________________________________________________________________________
Visit http://www.visto.com/info, your free web-based communications center.
Visto.com. Life on the Dot.
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 16:04:10 -0500
Subject: RE: Bouncing Tach BJ8
Joe,
Check the connections for power and ground for the tach. Also, pull out
the plastic block that carries the loop, clean the contacts on it and the
tach. and see if things improve.
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: CATUDALJ [mailto:CATUDALJ@email.msn.com]
Sent: Wednesday, June 14, 2000 1:19 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Bouncing Tach BJ8
Have had a problem with the electronic tach on my BJ8 bouncing at all
speeds. Have checked points, condensor, loop wire behind the tach,
wires fron the coil. Any Ideas?
TIA
Joe
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 17:18:29 EDT
Subject: Re: Electrical Fan
In a message dated 6/14/00 12:30:07 PM Pacific Daylight Time, ian@Remedy.COM
writes:
<<
It is 100+ degrees here in the San Francisco Bay Area and my Healey ('58
100-6) does not like it one bit. >>
Ian,
Can't help you with the electric fan. I chose to go with the six-blade
"Texas Cooler" fan because I wasn't certain that my 57 100-Six positive
ground generator would be adequate to drive an electric fan with other
electrics on. It works Great! Was out driving today with flags on (Flag
Day) slowly through Walnut Creek, Danville and Alamo in the 104 degree heat
and even idling it never got above 190. Also did the GGAHC 600 mile, 7
Sierra Passes tour on Memorial Day weekend and on all of the heavy climbs,
she never got above 195 degrees.
John
Walnut Creek, CA
100-Six Erika the Red
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 17:48:18 -0400
Subject: Re: Any words of wisom for BJ8 front bearings
The subject of the function of the spacers and shims comes up periodically
on both this list and the spridgets list (and probably every other list
involving a car that uses the spacers and shims).
Sorry to disagree with the theory of the spacer and stub axle, but the ONLY
function of the spacer and shims is to properly pre-load the wheel bearings.
The ball bearings used in the wheels are of the type called "angular
contact" bearings (marked THRUST on one side) and inherently have more axial
(i.e., in and out) play between the inner and outer races than the roller
bearings used in more modern designs. Using these without the spacer and
shims will allow too much play in the wheel with the axle nut torqued to
specs. If the bearings/spacer/shims are used correctly, and the nut is only
torqued finger tight, there will not be the correct axial pre-load on the
bearings required to reduce the axial play.
The structural thickness of the stub axle is not affected by the
bearing/spacer/shim stack up. Ultimately, all of the wheel loads pass
through the base of the stub axle where it transitions to the kingpin. The
bearing/spacer shim stack up is not an integral part of the stub axle and is
not attached to it by fasteners, and therefore cannot carry any
vertical/horizontal shear or bending loads at the base. It can only carry
axial loads.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Salter <magicare@home.com>
To: James Sailer <sailer@srv.net>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, June 14, 2000 12:43 PM
Subject: Re: Any words of wisom for BJ8 front bearings
>
>James Sailer wrote:
>
>> Greetings all,
>>
>> Are there any words of wisom or things to note on replacing front wheel
>> bearings? (Actually I'm replacing my front hub). Looks pretty straight
>> forward.
>>
>> Thanks in advance!
>>
>> Jim Sailer
>> 66 BJ8 - with motor back in (still needing final plumbing) and new BWW 72
>> spoke wheels in the shop!
>
>Hi Jim,
>
>Most of the cars we get in have had the front wheel bearings "flat
rated".To
>us this means that the spacers and shims have been thrown ayaw and the stub
>axle tighteded up "finger tight". The design of the front stub axle on
these
>cars, and most other BMC cars, is completely different from most Detroit
Iron
>and even a Triumph.
>The inner races of the bearings and the bearing spacer and shims form part
of
>the stub axle structure. Running the car with the "normal just over finger
>tight" stub axle nut is, I understand, the major cause of failure of the
stub
>axles.
>The wheel bearing clearance should be adjusted according to the manual and
>the nut tightened to between 40 & 70 lb ft. This produces, in effect a stub
>axle which is much thicker (including the additional diameter of the
>bearings) which in turn minimizes any flexing of the stub axle under
changing
>loads.
>Do it once. Do it right.
>
>--
>Regards,
>
>Mike Salter
>http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
>
From "James Sailer" <sailer at srv.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 16:22:35 -0600
Subject: Thanks - Re: Any words of wisom for BJ8 front bearings
Thanks for all the replies. I have ordered some shims and will be organised
to do this on the 23rd. Hoping to get the engine plumbed and running this
weekend. Since I am installing a new hub, bearings and seal I imagine I'll
get the new bearings pressed in the hub in advance.
BTW - I am assuming the studs press out of the hubs without great
difficulty. Am I dreaming or do I need my machine shop for this (or do I
need new studs)?
Thanks Again
jim Sailer
66 BJ8
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 17:46:31 -0500
Subject: RE: Thanks - Re: Any words of wisdom for BJ8 front bearings
Jim,
The hub is attached to the rotor with nuts and bolts, not studs on a
post-26705 BJ8, so it should be no problem separating them. See Parts
Manual Plate K4. Bolt is BTC378, probably a hardened type.
Perhaps you have disc wheels which may use studs?
Confused-ly,
Adnan
PS Only the outer races of the bearings get pressed in (apologize if I'm
being redundant).
-----Original Message-----
From: James Sailer [mailto:sailer@srv.net]
Sent: Wednesday, June 14, 2000 3:23 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: Thanks - Re: Any words of wisom for BJ8 front bearings
Thanks for all the replies. I have ordered some shims and will be organised
to do this on the 23rd. Hoping to get the engine plumbed and running this
weekend. Since I am installing a new hub, bearings and seal I imagine I'll
get the new bearings pressed in the hub in advance.
BTW - I am assuming the studs press out of the hubs without great
difficulty. Am I dreaming or do I need my machine shop for this (or do I
need new studs)?
Thanks Again
jim Sailer
66 BJ8
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 18:53:25 EDT
Subject: New England AHCA Website?
Hi Listers,
Does anyone out there know the site address for the NE club? Or if they even
have one? Since I have moved to North Carolina from Connecticut, I just
wanted to keep up with the news of my favorite club. Thanks for any help.
Rudy Streng
From Chris & Dawne Yusi <chris at ucbrothers.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 16:42:47 -0700
Subject: Splined Hubs: 8 tpi vs. 12 tpi?
Hey all,
I'm looking for some used knock-off hubs for my BT7. The prices are
steep, and I'm on a tight budget. Does anyone have a set in good
condition?
Also, I recall the recent thread on losing knockoffs on the road.
There was mention of the 8 tpi being less likely to strip. Is this a
common problem? Does anyone have an opinion on 8 tpi hubs vs. the 12
tpi?
Thanks,
- Chris
From "Colin O'Brien" <cob at atg.com.au>
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 10:11:24 +1000
Subject: Do knockoffs really come undone?
Hi all,
Chris' email reminded me to ask the question of all you sages out there -
"do knockoffs really come undone?"
I've driven knockoff wheeled cars for years and never had one come loose.
They certainly ease off a fraction, possibly one eighth of a turn after
tightening, but in my experience, never any more. That easing off also
seems to occur almost immediately the car is driven after banging them up
really tight so I don't overdo the hammering any more as I feel it is more
likely to damage the threads.
Is the problem of loosening more related to the poor quality of splines
causing the wheel to 'wobble' and hence inching the spinner undone. I
assume they are threaded the way they are to discourage loosening.
I am being too easy going about a dangerous possibility?
Regards to all,
Colin O'Brien
Sydney Oz
BJ8 ph1
--
> From: Chris & Dawne Yusi <chris@ucbrothers.com>
> Reply-To: Chris & Dawne Yusi <chris@ucbrothers.com>
> Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 16:42:47 -0700
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Splined Hubs: 8 tpi vs. 12 tpi?
>
>
> Hey all,
>
> I'm looking for some used knock-off hubs for my BT7. The prices are
> steep, and I'm on a tight budget. Does anyone have a set in good
> condition?
>
> Also, I recall the recent thread on losing knockoffs on the road.
> There was mention of the 8 tpi being less likely to strip. Is this a
> common problem? Does anyone have an opinion on 8 tpi hubs vs. the 12
> tpi?
>
> Thanks,
>
> - Chris
>
From "Patrick QUINN" <QUINNP at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 10:18:41 +1000
Subject: Re: "Magna-Guard"
G'day Reid
I case you don't know the sump plug/oil drain plug of the Mini has a magnet
permanently set into it. I always found it most entertaining seeing the
patterns formed by the iron filings when I changed the oil in my Mini. How ever
it paled from the time before I rebuilt the gearbox when all sorts of bits and
pieces came out stuck to the plug.
I really don't know the value of a magnet in a normal engine, but they're
invaluable in Mini engines and the like where the gears are in the engine
sump/oil pan.
However our AHOC for a few years has been selling magnets that fit into the
sump plugs of Healey engines and members have commented about the amount of
iron filings retrieved during every oil change.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1 (Out in last night in the middle of an Australian
winter - magic stuff.)
>>> Reid Trummel 14/06/00 22:39:19 >>>
Hi all,
The club received a sample of a product and I'd like to hear about anyone's
experiences with it, and perhaps some assessments from some of the list's
technically informed.
The product is named "Magna-Guard" and basically it is just a magnet, about 1/4
inch x 1/4 inch x 1 inch. You're instructed to place it in the oil filter
canister (this assumes a conventional metal screw-on type oil filter) and then
install the oil filter as usual. When you remove and discard the oil filter,
you just discard the magnet (the "Magna-Guard") with it since (a) it would be a
bit of a hassle to get it out and clean it and reuse it, and (b) they sell more
that way.
The whole idea is that this magnet attracts and holds metal particles that are
so small that they go through the filter and would otherwise continue to
circulate in the engine oil, presumably causing wear. There are several
testimonials and reports on results of trials enclosed with the sample, and
needless to say all of the reports are glowing.
To use this on a big Healey that still has the original equipment oil filter
canister with a felt (or paper) element inserted, I guess you'd have to stick
the magnet to the inside of the canister wall and then insert the filter
element; could be less effective that way since the flow of oil over/near the
magnet would be less than in a conventional oil filter where the magnet would
be in the central cavity where all of the oil flows on each pass.
Anyway, anyone know anything about this product? Is it a good idea or snake
oil or something in between? Thanks.
Cheers,
Reid
http://www.healey.org
___________________________________________________
GO Network Mail
Get Your Free, Private E-mail at http://mail.go.com
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 20:59:38 EDT
Subject: Re: Any words of wisdom for BJ8 front bearings
In a message dated 06/14/2000 3:34:02 PM Central Daylight Time,
magicare@home.com writes:
<< Another good idea is to install the seal after you have got the shim
measurement
correct!! >>
Not even necessary.
Ed
PS: and instead of sending duplicate mesages to 3 EXTRA folks, deleted
addresses so Mike is the only (deservedly so<G>) receiving twice.
PPS: THINK about it folks.
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at connect.comdek.net.au>
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 08:12:27 +0800
Subject: Re: Any words of wisom for BJ8 front bearings
Steve
Totally agree with your words on the strength of the stub axle.
One of the reasons why stub axles have failed previously is due to the
little holes through the swivel. They considerably weaken an area of high
stress. ( My manual says these holes can be used to insert a tool from the
rear to push the bearing off the shaft.) Goodness knows why the bearings are
so tight on the shaft anyway.
I have just reassembled my front hubs and found that the axle shaft was
0.003" larger than the inside of the new bearing. I went and found the old
bearings and they were the same.
I have to disagree about your comments on the type of bearings used unless
mine were different. My bearings are conical roller bearings, the same as
you find in modern cars. The use of a spacer and shims was just a clever way
to achieve the correct preload on the bearings and overcome the
manufacturing tolerances of the day.
When I first assembled my hubs I left the shims out and applied sufficient
torque to the nut to achieve preload but the hub wasn't free. To achieve the
correct "balance" shims were installed.
Different cars may have a different result all due to the manufacturing
tolerances. Thats why we love them so much -:)
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
BT7 in resto
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Byers <byers@cconnect.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2000 5:48 AM
Subject: Re: Any words of wisom for BJ8 front bearings
>
> The subject of the function of the spacers and shims comes up periodically
> on both this list and the spridgets list (and probably every other list
> involving a car that uses the spacers and shims).
>
> Sorry to disagree with the theory of the spacer and stub axle, but the
ONLY
> function of the spacer and shims is to properly pre-load the wheel
bearings.
> The ball bearings used in the wheels are of the type called "angular
> contact" bearings (marked THRUST on one side) and inherently have more
axial
> (i.e., in and out) play between the inner and outer races than the roller
> bearings used in more modern designs. Using these without the spacer
and
> shims will allow too much play in the wheel with the axle nut torqued to
> specs. If the bearings/spacer/shims are used correctly, and the nut is
only
> torqued finger tight, there will not be the correct axial pre-load on the
> bearings required to reduce the axial play.
>
> The structural thickness of the stub axle is not affected by the
> bearing/spacer/shim stack up. Ultimately, all of the wheel loads pass
> through the base of the stub axle where it transitions to the kingpin.
The
> bearing/spacer shim stack up is not an integral part of the stub axle and
is
> not attached to it by fasteners, and therefore cannot carry any
> vertical/horizontal shear or bending loads at the base. It can only carry
> axial loads.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> Havelock, NC
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael Salter <magicare@home.com>
> To: James Sailer <sailer@srv.net>
> Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Wednesday, June 14, 2000 12:43 PM
> Subject: Re: Any words of wisom for BJ8 front bearings
>
>
> >
> >James Sailer wrote:
> >
> >> Greetings all,
> >>
> >> Are there any words of wisom or things to note on replacing front wheel
> >> bearings? (Actually I'm replacing my front hub). Looks pretty
straight
> >> forward.
> >>
> >> Thanks in advance!
> >>
> >> Jim Sailer
> >> 66 BJ8 - with motor back in (still needing final plumbing) and new BWW
72
> >> spoke wheels in the shop!
> >
> >Hi Jim,
> >
> >Most of the cars we get in have had the front wheel bearings "flat
> rated".To
> >us this means that the spacers and shims have been thrown ayaw and the
stub
> >axle tighteded up "finger tight". The design of the front stub axle on
> these
> >cars, and most other BMC cars, is completely different from most Detroit
> Iron
> >and even a Triumph.
> >The inner races of the bearings and the bearing spacer and shims form
part
> of
> >the stub axle structure. Running the car with the "normal just over
finger
> >tight" stub axle nut is, I understand, the major cause of failure of the
> stub
> >axles.
> >The wheel bearing clearance should be adjusted according to the manual
and
> >the nut tightened to between 40 & 70 lb ft. This produces, in effect a
stub
> >axle which is much thicker (including the additional diameter of the
> >bearings) which in turn minimizes any flexing of the stub axle under
> changing
> >loads.
> >Do it once. Do it right.
> >
> >--
> >Regards,
> >
> >Mike Salter
> >http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> >
> >
>
>
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 21:47:19 -0400
Subject: Re: Any words of wisom for BJ8 front bearings
Hi, John --
Not sure where the disagreement is about the type of bearings. The ones in
my BJ8 and in my Midget are now and were originally ball, rather than roller
bearings. For these, the spacer and shims are required for proper preload.
Whether you need the spacer/shims for a roller bearing installation in a
Healey hub to achieve the proper preload, I don't know. It would depend on
how much axial play is present in the bearing. I do know that the rollers
are less sensitive to preload. Some people on the Spridgets list have
claimed to have successfully switched from ball to roller bearings in the
front wheels and dispensed with the spacer and shims for many years and
miles without any problem. It would not cause stub axle failure in any
case.
Happy Healeying!
Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: John Rowe <jarowe@connect.comdek.net.au>
To: Steve Byers <byers@cconnect.net>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, June 14, 2000 9:12 PM
Subject: Re: Any words of wisom for BJ8 front bearings
>Steve
>
>Totally agree with your words on the strength of the stub axle.
>One of the reasons why stub axles have failed previously is due to the
>little holes through the swivel. They considerably weaken an area of high
>stress. ( My manual says these holes can be used to insert a tool from the
>rear to push the bearing off the shaft.) Goodness knows why the bearings
are
>so tight on the shaft anyway.
>
>I have just reassembled my front hubs and found that the axle shaft was
>0.003" larger than the inside of the new bearing. I went and found the old
>bearings and they were the same.
>
>I have to disagree about your comments on the type of bearings used unless
>mine were different. My bearings are conical roller bearings, the same as
>you find in modern cars. The use of a spacer and shims was just a clever
way
>to achieve the correct preload on the bearings and overcome the
>manufacturing tolerances of the day.
>
>When I first assembled my hubs I left the shims out and applied sufficient
>torque to the nut to achieve preload but the hub wasn't free. To achieve
the
>correct "balance" shims were installed.
>
>Different cars may have a different result all due to the manufacturing
>tolerances. Thats why we love them so much -:)
>
>Regards
>
>John Rowe
>Perth
>Western Australia
>BT7 in resto
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Steve Byers <byers@cconnect.net>
>To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2000 5:48 AM
>Subject: Re: Any words of wisom for BJ8 front bearings
>
>
>>
>> The subject of the function of the spacers and shims comes up
periodically
>> on both this list and the spridgets list (and probably every other list
>> involving a car that uses the spacers and shims).
>>
>> Sorry to disagree with the theory of the spacer and stub axle, but the
>ONLY
>> function of the spacer and shims is to properly pre-load the wheel
>bearings.
>> The ball bearings used in the wheels are of the type called "angular
>> contact" bearings (marked THRUST on one side) and inherently have more
>axial
>> (i.e., in and out) play between the inner and outer races than the roller
>> bearings used in more modern designs. Using these without the spacer
>and
>> shims will allow too much play in the wheel with the axle nut torqued to
>> specs. If the bearings/spacer/shims are used correctly, and the nut is
>only
>> torqued finger tight, there will not be the correct axial pre-load on the
>> bearings required to reduce the axial play.
>>
>> The structural thickness of the stub axle is not affected by the
>> bearing/spacer/shim stack up. Ultimately, all of the wheel loads pass
>> through the base of the stub axle where it transitions to the kingpin.
>The
>> bearing/spacer shim stack up is not an integral part of the stub axle and
>is
>> not attached to it by fasteners, and therefore cannot carry any
>> vertical/horizontal shear or bending loads at the base. It can only
carry
>> axial loads.
>>
>> Steve Byers
>> HBJ8L/36666
>> Havelock, NC
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Michael Salter <magicare@home.com>
>> To: James Sailer <sailer@srv.net>
>> Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
>> Date: Wednesday, June 14, 2000 12:43 PM
>> Subject: Re: Any words of wisom for BJ8 front bearings
>>
>>
>> >
>> >James Sailer wrote:
>> >
>> >> Greetings all,
>> >>
>> >> Are there any words of wisom or things to note on replacing front
wheel
>> >> bearings? (Actually I'm replacing my front hub). Looks pretty
>straight
>> >> forward.
>> >>
>> >> Thanks in advance!
>> >>
>> >> Jim Sailer
>> >> 66 BJ8 - with motor back in (still needing final plumbing) and new BWW
>72
>> >> spoke wheels in the shop!
>> >
>> >Hi Jim,
>> >
>> >Most of the cars we get in have had the front wheel bearings "flat
>> rated".To
>> >us this means that the spacers and shims have been thrown ayaw and the
>stub
>> >axle tighteded up "finger tight". The design of the front stub axle on
>> these
>> >cars, and most other BMC cars, is completely different from most Detroit
>> Iron
>> >and even a Triumph.
>> >The inner races of the bearings and the bearing spacer and shims form
>part
>> of
>> >the stub axle structure. Running the car with the "normal just over
>finger
>> >tight" stub axle nut is, I understand, the major cause of failure of the
>> stub
>> >axles.
>> >The wheel bearing clearance should be adjusted according to the manual
>and
>> >the nut tightened to between 40 & 70 lb ft. This produces, in effect a
>stub
>> >axle which is much thicker (including the additional diameter of the
>> >bearings) which in turn minimizes any flexing of the stub axle under
>> changing
>> >loads.
>> >Do it once. Do it right.
>> >
>> >--
>> >Regards,
>> >
>> >Mike Salter
>> >http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
From JXLmail at aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 21:44:13 EDT
Subject: Re: Experiences racing at Marlboro Maryland in the 60s
To All,
I drove down to the Rt4/301 intersections last Saturday. I parked in the
Giant Foods parking lot. dragged out my tripod and 4x5 camera and proceeded
to hike around. After an hour or so I realized I was in the wrong place. I
could not find any signs of civilization. I hiked back toward Maryland i.e.
the Giant and encounter a beer distribution company positioned behind the
Giant. The guys on the loading dock said it was on the other side of the
"pike" just a 1/4 mile south. I ask for clarification as to what is a "pike"
and realized they were describing the small stream that Rt. 301 crosses.
I repacked the camera equipment and headed to the South side of the pike. The
area in front of the grand stands has been leased to a nursery. The owner of
the nursery directed me to a small office under the grandstands. As I
approached the grandstands I noticed the heavy timber construction and what
looked like green shutters hung across the back. At first I thought how odd,
someone must have tacked them up to solve an immediate problem. But I soon
realized that they were an integral part of the grandstands. The stands must
have looked pretty interesting in it's prime. I would guess white cinder
block foundation, heavy timber super structure and green shutters. I knocked
and entered a very small office with one gentleman occupying it. The first
thing I noticed was the smell. It smelled just like the basement of my
grandfather's house near Duck Lake, MI. The severely slopped cinder block
ceiling again reinforced the memories of the cellar under the "old" house on
the lake. The office seemed to be 6' by 5'. I wondered what it was used for
in the 60s. The gentleman had a very heavy accent and before I could explain
much he asked me to leave because he was expecting a call from "New York".
After the call I was invited back into the office. No matter how many times I
explained why I wanted to take a few pictures he was just as adamant in "no
pictures please" and at the same time selling the property to me.
He offered and I accepted an invitation for a tour. We walked through the
grandstand entrance. Standing in the middle of the asphalt of the oval I
could see where the turnoff to the run toward the woods was. I wished I could
park my 56 healey with Brookland windshields on the oval and take a few
pictures. But my honesty in that I was not interested in buying the track may
have precluded any possibility in pictures.
"It would make an excellent driving range (golf)."
"I'm not interested in buying it"
"With a little work the track could be opened again."
"I believe we are standing in a flood plane. I'm not interested.
"you know the soil is very good for farming"
"I would guess that it would be rated an EPA Super dump"
It seems that I've lost my touch with dealing with people. I would guess this
is the result of a career focused on computer hardware/software.
Anyway, the grand stand is still there, although it would certainly be
condemned by the county if they noticed it occupied. The oval asphalt is
still in place but weeds have broken up many parts.
I will mentioned a couple of historical points concerning Upper Marlboro that
I gathered from an undisclosed source;
1. The "Top of the Hill" tavern is still operating I believe it still has a
very rough
reputation.
2. The Marlboro Hotel/entertainment center burned down in the early 70s
3. The liquor store is still operating
4. The Safeway is gone but the two small stores/fronts are still standing in
it's
location.
5. The 6 lane bowling alley still exists.
If you know where the bowling alley is located you really knew your way
around back then.
Jim L.
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 22:33:00 EDT
Subject: Re: Experiences racing at Marlboro Maryland in the 60s
In a message dated 6/14/00 9:54:54 PM Eastern Daylight Time, JXLmail@aol.com
writes:
<< He offered and I accepted an invitation for a tour. We walked through the
grandstand entrance. Standing in the middle of the asphalt of the oval I
could see where the turnoff to the run toward the woods was. >>
Jim--
I took a different approach: I drove thru the gates and took a turn onto the
oval section, did one quick lap (counterclockwise) and exited the premises
before--I thought--I was seen. A fellow in a big SUV chased me down about
1/4 mile north on 301 and wanted to know what I was up to. When I told him I
was looking for the track he said it ws closed.
End of story--Michael
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 20:35:56 -0500
Subject: Test
From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 22:39:48 EDT
Subject: Re: "Magna-Guard"
I have had good experience with in-oil path magnets on my Mini for years. As
a matter of fact, I have an extra length on in my Mini trans. and then the
normal one is put in a custom fitting whigh places it up in the pick up oil
path before the oil gets to the filter. Both of these always have some
fillings on them, and it always seems quite amazing to see the iron on them
at each change. If any one can get hold of rare earth magnets, you could
easily put them on the outside of Healey oil filter housings and the effect
would be the same. The rare earth magnets, (Neobium?) are simply incredible,
be careful with two of them through your hand though, they can really pinch!
John
Oostburg, WI
'60 BT7
'60 Mini
'80 TR7
'69 AA
'57 Isetta
Etc.
From "Brad Weldon" <brad at bradw.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 19:56:12 -0700
Subject: RE: New England AHCA Website?
Hi Rudy,
How about the Carolinas Austin Healey Club, at
http://www.salisbury.net/cahc/
Brad
'55 bn1
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of CAWS52803@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 14, 2000 03:53 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: New England AHCA Website?
Hi Listers,
Does anyone out there know the site address for the NE club? Or if they
even
have one? Since I have moved to North Carolina from Connecticut, I just
wanted to keep up with the news of my favorite club. Thanks for any help.
Rudy Streng
From Fred Hunter <fhunter at kcnet.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 22:15:17 -0500
Subject: Re: "Magna-Guard"
Reid:
As you know, I'm into old motorcycles as well as old Healeys, and the
bike crowd has used a variation of this theme for many years. A magnet
mounted in the oil drain plug was actually stock on some bikes; and
available for many others as an aftermarket item. Or you can easily
make your own. Works for cars, too.
The beauty of having the magnet in the drain plug is that you can easily
clean the metal particles off of it on a regular basis (when you change
oil), and of course, it's re-usable. I've used these and can report
that they do indeed collect stray metal bits--and can give you ulcers
from worrying about from whence they commeth! And you can sort of keep
track of how much metallic crud is on the magnet at each oil change...if
the amount goes up appreciably at one oil change cycle, you know
SOMETHING is going on in the engine that shouldn't be.
Why is it that it wasn't at all surprising for me to note that English
bikes with magnetic drain plugs always seemed to collect more particles
on their magnets than Japanese bikes that had them fitted?
As for a magnet in the oil canister...I'm a little leery. Call me old
fashioned, but I don't like to see anything in the oil filter canister
but oil and a filter!
Best regards,
Fred
Wild
Dashes
>From by-ways
Cause crashes
On highways
--Burma-Shave--
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 23:58:22 -0400
Subject: Re: Any words of wisom for BJ8 front bearings
Hi Steve,
IMHO those who believe that "the ONLY function of the shims and spacers is to
properly pre-load the wheel bearings" are failing to appreciate the principals
of design of this type of stub axle.
Consider this analogy. Instead of a stub axle we have a 1/4" diameter 6" long
stud protruding from a vertical surface. We hang a 200 lb. weight on the outer
end of the stud. The stud of course, being made of finest British Steel, bends
at the point where it is screwed into the vertical surface.
Now slide a 1" o.d. 1/4" i.d. by 5 1/2" long sleeve over the same stud (after
you straightened, or better yet, replaced it), put a washer and nut on the stud
and tighten the nut. Now hang your 200 lb. weight on the stud. Does it bend? Why
not?
This may be an exaggerated example, but the theory is the same.
This may seem trivial to those who do not appreciate the difference but it can
be a life and death matter if failure to follow the instructions results in a
fatigue failure of a front stub axle.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Steve Byers wrote:
> The subject of the function of the spacers and shims comes up periodically
> on both this list and the spridgets list (and probably every other list
> involving a car that uses the spacers and shims).
>
> Sorry to disagree with the theory of the spacer and stub axle, but the ONLY
> function of the spacer and shims is to properly pre-load the wheel bearings.
> The ball bearings used in the wheels are of the type called "angular
> contact" bearings (marked THRUST on one side) and inherently have more axial
> (i.e., in and out) play between the inner and outer races than the roller
> bearings used in more modern designs. Using these without the spacer and
> shims will allow too much play in the wheel with the axle nut torqued to
> specs. If the bearings/spacer/shims are used correctly, and the nut is only
> torqued finger tight, there will not be the correct axial pre-load on the
> bearings required to reduce the axial play.
>
> The structural thickness of the stub axle is not affected by the
> bearing/spacer/shim stack up. Ultimately, all of the wheel loads pass
> through the base of the stub axle where it transitions to the kingpin. The
> bearing/spacer shim stack up is not an integral part of the stub axle and is
> not attached to it by fasteners, and therefore cannot carry any
> vertical/horizontal shear or bending loads at the base. It can only carry
> axial loads.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> Havelock, NC
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael Salter <magicare@home.com>
> To: James Sailer <sailer@srv.net>
> Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Wednesday, June 14, 2000 12:43 PM
> Subject: Re: Any words of wisom for BJ8 front bearings
>
> >
> >James Sailer wrote:
> >
> >> Greetings all,
> >>
> >> Are there any words of wisom or things to note on replacing front wheel
> >> bearings? (Actually I'm replacing my front hub). Looks pretty straight
> >> forward.
> >>
> >> Thanks in advance!
> >>
> >> Jim Sailer
> >> 66 BJ8 - with motor back in (still needing final plumbing) and new BWW 72
> >> spoke wheels in the shop!
> >
> >Hi Jim,
> >
> >Most of the cars we get in have had the front wheel bearings "flat
> rated".To
> >us this means that the spacers and shims have been thrown ayaw and the stub
> >axle tighteded up "finger tight". The design of the front stub axle on
> these
> >cars, and most other BMC cars, is completely different from most Detroit
> Iron
> >and even a Triumph.
> >The inner races of the bearings and the bearing spacer and shims form part
> of
> >the stub axle structure. Running the car with the "normal just over finger
> >tight" stub axle nut is, I understand, the major cause of failure of the
> stub
> >axles.
> >The wheel bearing clearance should be adjusted according to the manual and
> >the nut tightened to between 40 & 70 lb ft. This produces, in effect a stub
> >axle which is much thicker (including the additional diameter of the
> >bearings) which in turn minimizes any flexing of the stub axle under
> changing
> >loads.
> >Do it once. Do it right.
> >
> >--
> >Regards,
> >
> >Mike Salter
> >http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> >
> >
From "Donald V. Fregeau Jr. DDS" <ceo at northcoast.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 21:18:20 -0700
Subject: Re: Do knockoffs really come undone?
>
> Chris' email reminded me to ask the question of all you sages out there -
> "do knockoffs really come undone?"
I had one come off my BJ7 about 22 years ago. The right front spoke wheel
had worn/flattened splines and would spin a little when I applied the
brakes. One day I hit the brakes on approaching train tracks on a curve,
the knock off spun off and shot straight up in the air about twenty feet and
the wheel/tire took off down the railroad tracks. It made a fabulous groan
as it all happened and dug into a small dirt mound next to the crossing. It
got my attention and I replaced the wheel and spline pronto. They only come
off when there is a problem with the wheel or spline in my experience.
Don
63 BJ7 since 1969
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at slip.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 21:16:04 -0700
Subject: Missing Engine Saga (conclusion)
Many thanks to all who suggested solutions to my problem, all of which were
helpful
and informative.
Adnan hit the nail on the head: bad distibutor cap (Brand X). Put a new Brand
L cap and
some new wires in and she seems to be running fine.
For all the bad press Lucas gets their products sure beat the aftermarket cr*p!
Regards,
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@slip.net (home)
San Jose, CA. bspidell@teknema.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
From Dan Ness <dness at silknet.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 07:27:31 -0400
Subject: RE: Father's Day Gift Surprise
BTW, you can find tons of British Books listed by category at this URL:
http://www.thebpc.com/graphics/books.html
Dan
-----Original Message-----
From: Merchant, Adnan [mailto:Adnan.Merchant@mkg.com]
Sent: Wednesday, June 14, 2000 5:02 PM
To: 'jim t.p. ryan'; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Father's Day Gift Surprise
Remember, the book has a "Big" Healey on the cover....
-----Original Message-----
From: jim t.p. ryan [mailto:ryan@jimryan.com]
Sent: Wednesday, June 14, 2000 1:19 PM
To: mgay@netropolis.net; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Father's Day Gift Surprise
Wow, when ever I flash something she says she's not interested....
Jim
64 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: Margaret Gay mgay@netropolis.net
Sent: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 14:22:00 -0500
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Father's Day Gift Surprise
Listers:
I am the wife trying to figure out how to get the new healey restoration
book that was just issued for father's day (yes I know that would be Sunday)
Randy flashed something at me a while ago and said that was what he wanted
for father's day and now of course I have started the search - any help
would be appreciated as to how and where to order said book - with of course
overnight delivery service...please do not respond after 5:00PM CST - or he
will figure out I cheated and asked all of you
Thanks
Peggy Sue Gay - asleep at the wheel...
___________________________________________________________________________
Visit http://www.visto.com/info, your free web-based communications center.
Visto.com. Life on the Dot.
From "jim t.p. ryan" <ryan at jimryan.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 05:17:08 -0700
Subject: Re: Electrical Fan
Ian,
I've had an electric fan on my BJ7 for over 20 years. Don't remember who makes
it, but it bolted right on the front of the radiator. Think I just reversed
the wires. It's thermostatically controlled so it cools the car after I park
it.
Sincerely,
Jim Ryan
-----Original Message-----
From: JSoderling@aol.com
Sent: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 17:18:29 EDT
To: ian@remedy.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Electrical Fan
In a message dated 6/14/00 12:30:07 PM Pacific Daylight Time, ian@Remedy.COM
writes:
<<
It is 100+ degrees here in the San Francisco Bay Area and my Healey ('58
100-6) does not like it one bit. >>
Ian,
Can't help you with the electric fan. I chose to go with the six-blade
"Texas Cooler" fan because I wasn't certain that my 57 100-Six positive
ground generator would be adequate to drive an electric fan with other
electrics on. It works Great! Was out driving today with flags on (Flag
Day) slowly through Walnut Creek, Danville and Alamo in the 104 degree heat
and even idling it never got above 190. Also did the GGAHC 600 mile, 7
Sierra Passes tour on Memorial Day weekend and on all of the heavy climbs,
she never got above 195 degrees.
John
Walnut Creek, CA
100-Six Erika the Red
___________________________________________________________________________
Visit http://www.visto.com/info, your free web-based communications center.
Visto.com. Life on the Dot.
From ccruz at tribune.com
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 08:17:00 -0500
Subject: Electrical Fan & Other Stuff
Ian,
I had a similar situation when I first bought my Healey. You could
have roasted a turkey in the foot wells and baked potato's on the
tranny cover.
I never got around to adding an electric fan but I did some work that
did wonders for my situation any might be of help to you.
1) check and/or replace your thermostat. Went to check mine only to
find out the PO hadn't installed one. It was running wide open. Got
my hands on two (one spare) from the Nocks at British Car Specialist.
2) Took the radiator out because of a small leak and overheating.
Took it to a radiator shop. Their inspection found a cracked header
plate. They fabricated one for me, installed it, dunked it and
painted it like original.
3) New radiator hoses went in to replace the junk the PO had
installed.
4) Then I stripped out the interior carpet and seats and installed the
insulation material (sold by Victoria Brit). It's padded on one side
with a mylar finish on the other. I cut and fit it up into the foot
wells, doubled it up under the driver's seat (above the muffler) and
around the tranny cover. I also doubled it up where the tranny tunnel
meets the firewall.
1, 2, and 3 did wonders for my overheating problems. I run a constant
185-190 no matter what the conditions. #4 greatly improved the
driving (& passenger comfort levels). On cool days it's just right
and on hot days it's bearable.
One other suggestion I've been told by several other Healey owners but
haven't tried yet, is to install an overflow canister to the
radiator's overflow pipe. I've been told that the canister will
collect the fluid as it expands (heats up) and the radiator will draw
it back in through the circulation process. This should allow you to
run a full radiator of fluid. I think I'm going to give it a shot -
it's easy enough to remove if it doesn't work.
.02 cents. Hope it helps.
Best regards,
Carlos Cruz
'60 AH3KBN7
From ccruz at tribune.com
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 08:23:00 -0500
Subject: Father's Day Gift Surprise
----------------------------------------------
< Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 13:18:36 -0700
< From: "jim t.p. ryan" <ryan@jimryan.com>
< Subject: Re: Father's Day Gift Surprise
<
< Wow, when ever I flash something she says she's not interested....
<
< Jim
< 64 BJ7
Perhaps it's the size of your book. Next time try a long novel and
avoid the short stories. ;-)
It was too easy - I couldn't resist.
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at connect.comdek.net.au>
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 21:47:42 +0800
Subject: Re: Any words of wisom for BJ8 front bearings
Mike
I thought I'd jump in here as I have already replied to Steve and agreed
with some of his comments.
I believe your analogy is correct in principle but fades into lesser
significance when you consider the sizes we are talking about.
In the Healey case the shaft size is 1 1/8"? ( please correct me if I am
wrong as I have just thrown out my old bearings and don't want to pull the
front end apart to check) and the o.d of the spacer is about 3/8" larger.
The specified nut torque is 40 - 70 ft lb. This is very low for a shaft this
size and will not produce any significant preload in the shaft. Any increase
in the strength of the shaft is caused by the preload resulting in the shaft
being in a permanent state of compression. Forces from the wheel loads will
cause tension in the bottom edge but this has firstly to overcome the
permanent compression before any actual tension occurs .
The axel with a spacer under preload will increase the stiffness of the
shaft for normal load conditions but the whole setup was designed for
standard roller bearings. When the ball bearing races were changed to taper
roller the circumstances changed but the design stayed as is.
Being cynical here, but it probably was easier not to change.
That's why we love them :-)
My 0.02c
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
BT7 in resto
----- Original Message -----
From: Krazy Kiwi <magicare@home.com>
To: Steve Byers <byers@cconnect.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2000 11:58 AM
Subject: Re: Any words of wisom for BJ8 front bearings
>
> Hi Steve,
> IMHO those who believe that "the ONLY function of the shims and spacers is
to
> properly pre-load the wheel bearings" are failing to appreciate the
principals
> of design of this type of stub axle.
> Consider this analogy. Instead of a stub axle we have a 1/4" diameter 6"
long
> stud protruding from a vertical surface. We hang a 200 lb. weight on the
outer
> end of the stud. The stud of course, being made of finest British Steel,
bends
> at the point where it is screwed into the vertical surface.
> Now slide a 1" o.d. 1/4" i.d. by 5 1/2" long sleeve over the same stud
(after
> you straightened, or better yet, replaced it), put a washer and nut on the
stud
> and tighten the nut. Now hang your 200 lb. weight on the stud. Does it
bend? Why
> not?
> This may be an exaggerated example, but the theory is the same.
> This may seem trivial to those who do not appreciate the difference but it
can
> be a life and death matter if failure to follow the instructions results
in a
> fatigue failure of a front stub axle.
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> Steve Byers wrote:
>
> > The subject of the function of the spacers and shims comes up
periodically
> > on both this list and the spridgets list (and probably every other list
> > involving a car that uses the spacers and shims).
> >
> > Sorry to disagree with the theory of the spacer and stub axle, but the
ONLY
> > function of the spacer and shims is to properly pre-load the wheel
bearings.
> > The ball bearings used in the wheels are of the type called "angular
> > contact" bearings (marked THRUST on one side) and inherently have more
axial
> > (i.e., in and out) play between the inner and outer races than the
roller
> > bearings used in more modern designs. Using these without the spacer
and
> > shims will allow too much play in the wheel with the axle nut torqued to
> > specs. If the bearings/spacer/shims are used correctly, and the nut is
only
> > torqued finger tight, there will not be the correct axial pre-load on
the
> > bearings required to reduce the axial play.
> >
> > The structural thickness of the stub axle is not affected by the
> > bearing/spacer/shim stack up. Ultimately, all of the wheel loads pass
> > through the base of the stub axle where it transitions to the kingpin.
The
> > bearing/spacer shim stack up is not an integral part of the stub axle
and is
> > not attached to it by fasteners, and therefore cannot carry any
> > vertical/horizontal shear or bending loads at the base. It can only
carry
> > axial loads.
> >
> > Steve Byers
> > HBJ8L/36666
> > Havelock, NC
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Michael Salter <magicare@home.com>
> > To: James Sailer <sailer@srv.net>
> > Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Date: Wednesday, June 14, 2000 12:43 PM
> > Subject: Re: Any words of wisom for BJ8 front bearings
> >
> > >
> > >James Sailer wrote:
> > >
> > >> Greetings all,
> > >>
> > >> Are there any words of wisom or things to note on replacing front
wheel
> > >> bearings? (Actually I'm replacing my front hub). Looks pretty
straight
> > >> forward.
> > >>
> > >> Thanks in advance!
> > >>
> > >> Jim Sailer
> > >> 66 BJ8 - with motor back in (still needing final plumbing) and new
BWW 72
> > >> spoke wheels in the shop!
> > >
> > >Hi Jim,
> > >
> > >Most of the cars we get in have had the front wheel bearings "flat
> > rated".To
> > >us this means that the spacers and shims have been thrown ayaw and the
stub
> > >axle tighteded up "finger tight". The design of the front stub axle on
> > these
> > >cars, and most other BMC cars, is completely different from most
Detroit
> > Iron
> > >and even a Triumph.
> > >The inner races of the bearings and the bearing spacer and shims form
part
> > of
> > >the stub axle structure. Running the car with the "normal just over
finger
> > >tight" stub axle nut is, I understand, the major cause of failure of
the
> > stub
> > >axles.
> > >The wheel bearing clearance should be adjusted according to the manual
and
> > >the nut tightened to between 40 & 70 lb ft. This produces, in effect a
stub
> > >axle which is much thicker (including the additional diameter of the
> > >bearings) which in turn minimizes any flexing of the stub axle under
> > changing
> > >loads.
> > >Do it once. Do it right.
> > >
> > >--
> > >Regards,
> > >
> > >Mike Salter
> > >http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> > >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> > >
> > >
>
>
>
>
>
>
From "William H. Wood" <healeybill at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 09:50:40 -0400
Subject: Knock-offs
Don't reverse the sides of the splines, near-side, off-side, which is easy
to do.
healeybill
From "Absolutely British" <abritish at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 06:06:38 -0000
Subject: Re: Do knockoffs really come undone?
Hi Listers,
I missed the beginning of this but Here's my two pence.
The knockoff comes off because the splines on the hub extension or inside
the wire wheel strip and allow the wheel to spin on the hub.The hub
extension slows or stops upon braking but the rim doesn't thereby spinning
the knockoff ........... off.
Regards, Eric Grunden
Absolutely British
Ontario, California
(909) 947-0200
abritish@earthlink.net
----- Original Message -----
From: Colin O'Brien <cob@atg.com.au>
To: Chris & Dawne Yusi <chris@ucbrothers.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2000 12:11 AM
Subject: Do knockoffs really come undone?
>
> Hi all,
>
> Chris' email reminded me to ask the question of all you sages out there -
> "do knockoffs really come undone?"
>
> I've driven knockoff wheeled cars for years and never had one come loose.
> They certainly ease off a fraction, possibly one eighth of a turn after
> tightening, but in my experience, never any more. That easing off also
> seems to occur almost immediately the car is driven after banging them up
> really tight so I don't overdo the hammering any more as I feel it is more
> likely to damage the threads.
>
> Is the problem of loosening more related to the poor quality of splines
> causing the wheel to 'wobble' and hence inching the spinner undone. I
> assume they are threaded the way they are to discourage loosening.
>
> I am being too easy going about a dangerous possibility?
>
> Regards to all,
> Colin O'Brien
> Sydney Oz
> BJ8 ph1
> --
>
>
> > From: Chris & Dawne Yusi <chris@ucbrothers.com>
> > Reply-To: Chris & Dawne Yusi <chris@ucbrothers.com>
> > Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 16:42:47 -0700
> > To: healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Splined Hubs: 8 tpi vs. 12 tpi?
> >
> >
> > Hey all,
> >
> > I'm looking for some used knock-off hubs for my BT7. The prices are
> > steep, and I'm on a tight budget. Does anyone have a set in good
> > condition?
> >
> > Also, I recall the recent thread on losing knockoffs on the road.
> > There was mention of the 8 tpi being less likely to strip. Is this a
> > common problem? Does anyone have an opinion on 8 tpi hubs vs. the 12
> > tpi?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > - Chris
> >
>
>
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 10:17:46 EDT
Subject: Re: Father's Day Gift Surprise
In a message dated 6/15/00 9:35:52 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
ccruz@tribune.com writes:
<< Perhaps it's the size of your book. Next time try a long novel and
avoid the short stories. ;-) >>
And preferably something with an interesting twist at the end!
Michael
From njones at amadeus.net
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 17:18:45 +0100
Subject: Original Fuel tanks
From: Nick Jones@AMAWORLD on 15/06/2000 17:18
To: healeys@autox.team.net
cc:
Subject: Original Fuel tanks
I've developed a leak at the RH rear side of my BN7.
My tank looks original ..low mileage car...was wandering how many others are
running around
with their original tanks....maybe time for a new one.
Will start investigation this weekend...fuel pump is on LH side so it appears to
be a tank leak
UMMM?
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 11:31:06 -0400
Subject: Re: Heritage Certificate
Many thanks to all who replied to my request about the Heritage Certificate for
my Aussie Cooper "S".
As most respondents suspected they are unable to help.
It was worth a shot.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 08:35:08 -0700
Subject: Re: Father's Day Gift Surprise
After watching me scrub my fingers to the bone trying to clean up my old BJ8
boot cover last weekend (all to no avail), my wife suggested I buy a new one
from Moss for Father's Day. I threw in the towel and said sure! It looks
great and fits like a glove. What a girl!!! Randy
From "Scheuble, Fred J., HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 11:45:44 -0400
Subject: RE: Original Fuel tanks
mine has the original tank, filler tube is in the right hand side, check
that
-----Original Message-----
From: njones@amadeus.net [mailto:njones@amadeus.net]
Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2000 12:19 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Original Fuel tanks
From: Nick Jones@AMAWORLD on 15/06/2000 17:18
To: healeys@autox.team.net
cc:
Subject: Original Fuel tanks
I've developed a leak at the RH rear side of my BN7.
My tank looks original ..low mileage car...was wandering how many others are
running around
with their original tanks....maybe time for a new one.
Will start investigation this weekend...fuel pump is on LH side so it
appears to
be a tank leak
UMMM?
From "jim t.p. ryan" <ryan at jimryan.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 09:34:18 -0700
Subject: Re: Father's Day Gift Surprise
Hey, I'm just glad we didn't go down the "hardcover, softcover" path...
Sincerely,
Jim Ryan
64 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: ccruz@tribune.com
Sent: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 08:23:00 -0500
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Father's Day Gift Surprise
----------------------------------------------
< Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 13:18:36 -0700
< From: "jim t.p. ryan" <ryan@jimryan.com>
< Subject: Re: Father's Day Gift Surprise
<
< Wow, when ever I flash something she says she's not interested....
<
< Jim
< 64 BJ7
Perhaps it's the size of your book. Next time try a long novel and
avoid the short stories. ;-)
It was too easy - I couldn't resist.
___________________________________________________________________________
Visit http://www.visto.com/info, your free web-based communications center.
Visto.com. Life on the Dot.
From "jim t.p. ryan" <ryan at jimryan.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 09:38:37 -0700
Subject: Re: Electrical Fan & Other Stuff
When I put in my electric fan i did the overflow cannister as well. Don't know
which helped but it seemed like a good idea. I stuck the cannister in that
space under the front wing where you usually tuck a rag to check the oil.
Sincerely,
Jim Ryan
64 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: ccruz@tribune.com
Sent: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 08:17:00 -0500
To: healeys@autox.team.net, ian@Remedy.COM
Subject: Electrical Fan & Other Stuff
Ian,
I had a similar situation when I first bought my Healey. You could
have roasted a turkey in the foot wells and baked potato's on the
tranny cover.
I never got around to adding an electric fan but I did some work that
did wonders for my situation any might be of help to you.
1) check and/or replace your thermostat. Went to check mine only to
find out the PO hadn't installed one. It was running wide open. Got
my hands on two (one spare) from the Nocks at British Car Specialist.
2) Took the radiator out because of a small leak and overheating.
Took it to a radiator shop. Their inspection found a cracked header
plate. They fabricated one for me, installed it, dunked it and
painted it like original.
3) New radiator hoses went in to replace the junk the PO had
installed.
4) Then I stripped out the interior carpet and seats and installed the
insulation material (sold by Victoria Brit). It's padded on one side
with a mylar finish on the other. I cut and fit it up into the foot
wells, doubled it up under the driver's seat (above the muffler) and
around the tranny cover. I also doubled it up where the tranny tunnel
meets the firewall.
1, 2, and 3 did wonders for my overheating problems. I run a constant
185-190 no matter what the conditions. #4 greatly improved the
driving (& passenger comfort levels). On cool days it's just right
and on hot days it's bearable.
One other suggestion I've been told by several other Healey owners but
haven't tried yet, is to install an overflow canister to the
radiator's overflow pipe. I've been told that the canister will
collect the fluid as it expands (heats up) and the radiator will draw
it back in through the circulation process. This should allow you to
run a full radiator of fluid. I think I'm going to give it a shot -
it's easy enough to remove if it doesn't work.
.02 cents. Hope it helps.
Best regards,
Carlos Cruz
'60 AH3KBN7
___________________________________________________________________________
Visit http://www.visto.com/info, your free web-based communications center.
Visto.com. Life on the Dot.
From ccruz at tribune.com
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 11:36:00 -0500
Subject: New Electical Harness
Good day listers,
I (not the car) finally broke down and bought a new harness and
planning to install it. It looks great in the box - can't wait to see
it in the car.
I am hoping some of you can share advice on do's and don'ts before I
undertake this intimidating challenge. For background, the car is all
together with engine and tranny in. Following, the hopefully
successful install, I will be converting it from positive earth to
negative earth.
Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Best regards,
Carlos Cruz
'60 AH3kBN7
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 13:07:52 -0400
Subject: Re: Stub axles.
Hi John,
Do I have to get into the math here? I hated the math in structures, I hated the
math in aerodynamics, I hated the math in thermodynamics, I hated the math in
math.... I HATE MATH................I don't want to get into the math...... I
really don't.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From John Trifari <john4 at home.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 22:48:23 -0700
Subject: Re: New Electical Harness
Carlos: I have done a number of harness installations, and my best
advice is the following: First and foremost, always be sure the battery
is disconnected. then:
1. Take out the engine. Being able to work inside the engine bay is a
great convenience. If you plan to install the harness with the engine
installed, Be advised that the amount of work involved will increase.
2. Take some polaroids of the engine bay so you can see how the harness
is routed over the firewall and down the frame rails.
3. Remove the hangers and either cut the old harness at the point where
it enters the cockpit or disconnect everyhting under the dash and pull
the old harnness through. I prefer the former and remove both
segments--the wiring in the engine bay and then wiring in the cockpit.
Some feel otherwise about the cockpit wiring--see below.
4. Start installing the new harness in the engine bay. The first thing
you must do is push the harness into the cockpit via the large hole in
the firewall. Secure the grommet.
5. Then re-install things starting on the right hand side of the engine
(generator). Move up to the firewall and continue across. Connect up
teh control box, the frame harness and the pigtail leading to the
headlamp dip switch, the windshield wiper switch, etc., as you move
along, using the polaroids as your guide. Then go down the other side
to the directional relay, the cross harness and the headlamp pigtail
harnesses.
By the way, I wrap the harness in the engine bay with 3M plastic tape.
6. As far as the cockpit is concerned, You have two choices:
remove
the old wiring and replace the old wiring connections one at a time, or
simply remove the old wiring and start clean. I find that leaving the
old wiring on place and using the one-at-a-time approach clogs up the
underside with a lot of wires, so I prefer to remove all the wiring and
start clean. I find that the wires more or less fall into place and that
the color coding and a copy of the wiring diagram is all that is needed
to make the correct connections. Your choice. Above all, don't be
daunted. Cockpit wiring may seem complex, but all it is is backache.
As far as converting to neg ground, there is nothing in the wiring that
has to be changed. The wires don't care. You will have to reverse the
coil and the fuel pump however, repolarize the generator and change the
battery around. But again that does not have anything to do with the
harness. Have fun. Let me know how you are progressing. John
Trifari 1955 BN1/1965 BJ8
>
> Good day listers,
>
> I (not the car) finally broke down and bought a new harness and
> planning to install it. It looks great in the box - can't wait to see
> it in the car.
>
> I am hoping some of you can share advice on do's and don'ts before I
> undertake this intimidating challenge. For background, the car is all
> together with engine and tranny in. Following, the hopefully
> successful install, I will be converting it from positive earth to
> negative earth.
>
> Any advice is greatly appreciated.
>
> Best regards,
> Carlos Cruz
> '60 AH3kBN7
From "Scheuble, Fred J., HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 14:14:15 -0400
Subject: RE: New Electical Harness
on the subject of harnesses, mine is in good shape and has never given me a
problem, I do have some small areas when the cloth insulation is gone
exposing the plastic coated wires, does anyone have any tips on fixing these
areas? any info would be greatly appreciated
-----Original Message-----
From: John Trifari [mailto:john4@home.com]
Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2000 1:48 AM
To: ccruz@tribune.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: New Electical Harness
Carlos: I have done a number of harness installations, and my best
advice is the following: First and foremost, always be sure the battery
is disconnected. then:
1. Take out the engine. Being able to work inside the engine bay is a
great convenience. If you plan to install the harness with the engine
installed, Be advised that the amount of work involved will increase.
2. Take some polaroids of the engine bay so you can see how the harness
is routed over the firewall and down the frame rails.
3. Remove the hangers and either cut the old harness at the point where
it enters the cockpit or disconnect everyhting under the dash and pull
the old harnness through. I prefer the former and remove both
segments--the wiring in the engine bay and then wiring in the cockpit.
Some feel otherwise about the cockpit wiring--see below.
4. Start installing the new harness in the engine bay. The first thing
you must do is push the harness into the cockpit via the large hole in
the firewall. Secure the grommet.
5. Then re-install things starting on the right hand side of the engine
(generator). Move up to the firewall and continue across. Connect up
teh control box, the frame harness and the pigtail leading to the
headlamp dip switch, the windshield wiper switch, etc., as you move
along, using the polaroids as your guide. Then go down the other side
to the directional relay, the cross harness and the headlamp pigtail
harnesses.
By the way, I wrap the harness in the engine bay with 3M plastic
tape.
6. As far as the cockpit is concerned, You have two choices:
remove
the old wiring and replace the old wiring connections one at a time, or
simply remove the old wiring and start clean. I find that leaving the
old wiring on place and using the one-at-a-time approach clogs up the
underside with a lot of wires, so I prefer to remove all the wiring and
start clean. I find that the wires more or less fall into place and that
the color coding and a copy of the wiring diagram is all that is needed
to make the correct connections. Your choice. Above all, don't be
daunted. Cockpit wiring may seem complex, but all it is is backache.
As far as converting to neg ground, there is nothing in the wiring
that
has to be changed. The wires don't care. You will have to reverse the
coil and the fuel pump however, repolarize the generator and change the
battery around. But again that does not have anything to do with the
harness. Have fun. Let me know how you are progressing. John
Trifari 1955 BN1/1965 BJ8
>
> Good day listers,
>
> I (not the car) finally broke down and bought a new harness and
> planning to install it. It looks great in the box - can't wait to
see
> it in the car.
>
> I am hoping some of you can share advice on do's and don'ts before I
> undertake this intimidating challenge. For background, the car is
all
> together with engine and tranny in. Following, the hopefully
> successful install, I will be converting it from positive earth to
> negative earth.
>
> Any advice is greatly appreciated.
>
> Best regards,
> Carlos Cruz
> '60 AH3kBN7
From "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virginnet.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 19:20:41 +0100
Subject: RE: Original Fuel tanks
Hi,
I reckon mine was original. 62 BT7.
Strange thing- one day no leak. Next day a real, no
nonsense, drip drip drip.
And there didn't seem to be an ally tank in the country.
Your's,
Simon Lachlan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of njones@amadeus.net
Sent: 15 June 2000 17:19
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Original Fuel tanks
From: Nick Jones@AMAWORLD on 15/06/2000 17:18
To: healeys@autox.team.net
cc:
Subject: Original Fuel tanks
I've developed a leak at the RH rear side of my BN7.
My tank looks original ..low mileage car...was wandering how many others are
running around
with their original tanks....maybe time for a new one.
Will start investigation this weekend...fuel pump is on LH side so it
appears to
be a tank leak
UMMM?
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 11:42:57 -0700
Subject: RE: New Electical Harness
I have some of those myself, and used cold-shrink tape to wrap the affected
areas. Cold-shrink is like the old heat-shrink stuff, but it doesn't need
heat. (duh!) Anyway, you stretch it as you wrap and it fuses to itself. You
can find it in good electronic supply stores.
bk
--------------------------------------------
At 11:14 AM 6/15/00 , you wrote:
>on the subject of harnesses, mine is in good shape and has never given me a
>problem, I do have some small areas when the cloth insulation is gone
>exposing the plastic coated wires, does anyone have any tips on fixing these
>areas? any info would be greatly appreciated
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: John Trifari [mailto:john4@home.com]
>Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2000 1:48 AM
>To: ccruz@tribune.com
>Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: New Electical Harness
>
>
>
>Carlos: I have done a number of harness installations, and my best
>advice is the following: First and foremost, always be sure the battery
>is disconnected. then:
>
>1. Take out the engine. Being able to work inside the engine bay is a
>great convenience. If you plan to install the harness with the engine
>installed, Be advised that the amount of work involved will increase.
>
>2. Take some polaroids of the engine bay so you can see how the harness
>is routed over the firewall and down the frame rails.
>
>3. Remove the hangers and either cut the old harness at the point where
>it enters the cockpit or disconnect everyhting under the dash and pull
>the old harnness through. I prefer the former and remove both
>segments--the wiring in the engine bay and then wiring in the cockpit.
>Some feel otherwise about the cockpit wiring--see below.
>
>4. Start installing the new harness in the engine bay. The first thing
>you must do is push the harness into the cockpit via the large hole in
>the firewall. Secure the grommet.
>
>5. Then re-install things starting on the right hand side of the engine
>(generator). Move up to the firewall and continue across. Connect up
>teh control box, the frame harness and the pigtail leading to the
>headlamp dip switch, the windshield wiper switch, etc., as you move
>along, using the polaroids as your guide. Then go down the other side
>to the directional relay, the cross harness and the headlamp pigtail
>harnesses.
> By the way, I wrap the harness in the engine bay with 3M plastic
>tape.
>
> 6. As far as the cockpit is concerned, You have two choices:
>remove
>the old wiring and replace the old wiring connections one at a time, or
>simply remove the old wiring and start clean. I find that leaving the
>old wiring on place and using the one-at-a-time approach clogs up the
>underside with a lot of wires, so I prefer to remove all the wiring and
>start clean. I find that the wires more or less fall into place and that
>the color coding and a copy of the wiring diagram is all that is needed
>to make the correct connections. Your choice. Above all, don't be
>daunted. Cockpit wiring may seem complex, but all it is is backache.
>
> As far as converting to neg ground, there is nothing in the wiring
>that
>has to be changed. The wires don't care. You will have to reverse the
>coil and the fuel pump however, repolarize the generator and change the
>battery around. But again that does not have anything to do with the
>harness. Have fun. Let me know how you are progressing. John
>Trifari 1955 BN1/1965 BJ8
> >
> > Good day listers,
> >
> > I (not the car) finally broke down and bought a new harness and
> > planning to install it. It looks great in the box - can't wait to
>see
> > it in the car.
> >
> > I am hoping some of you can share advice on do's and don'ts before I
> > undertake this intimidating challenge. For background, the car is
>all
> > together with engine and tranny in. Following, the hopefully
> > successful install, I will be converting it from positive earth to
> > negative earth.
> >
> > Any advice is greatly appreciated.
> >
> > Best regards,
> > Carlos Cruz
> > '60 AH3kBN7
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 12:25:45 -0700
Subject: free gas tank
If any 6 cyl Healey owner, probably in So. Calif./San Diego area,
needs a gas tank that works and doesn't leak, s/he should email me
directly. This tank is not original nor is it like the Moss
replacement I just installed, made of heavier gauge steel with no
beads rolled in the end pieces, but it appears to be rust free inside
and out and it fit in my BJ7. It seems to be slightly smaller than
original and the pickup tube doesn't go as close to the bottom of the
tank as I would like -- leaving a gallon or two that you can't use.
However the price is right :-)
Free to a good home. FOB Rancho Santa Fe.
-Roland
From "Scheuble, Fred J., HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 15:22:55 -0400
Subject: RE: New Electical Harness
Thanks, guys, I have all kind od harness tape, and even old 30's cloth,
however its not easy to make it look like its not a patch job...
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Katz [mailto:bkatz@handsonresearch.com]
Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2000 2:43 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: New Electical Harness
I have some of those myself, and used cold-shrink tape to wrap the affected
areas. Cold-shrink is like the old heat-shrink stuff, but it doesn't need
heat. (duh!) Anyway, you stretch it as you wrap and it fuses to itself. You
can find it in good electronic supply stores.
bk
--------------------------------------------
At 11:14 AM 6/15/00 , you wrote:
>on the subject of harnesses, mine is in good shape and has never given me a
>problem, I do have some small areas when the cloth insulation is gone
>exposing the plastic coated wires, does anyone have any tips on fixing
these
>areas? any info would be greatly appreciated
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: John Trifari [mailto:john4@home.com]
>Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2000 1:48 AM
>To: ccruz@tribune.com
>Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: New Electical Harness
>
>
>
>Carlos: I have done a number of harness installations, and my best
>advice is the following: First and foremost, always be sure the battery
>is disconnected. then:
>
>1. Take out the engine. Being able to work inside the engine bay is a
>great convenience. If you plan to install the harness with the engine
>installed, Be advised that the amount of work involved will increase.
>
>2. Take some polaroids of the engine bay so you can see how the
harness
>is routed over the firewall and down the frame rails.
>
>3. Remove the hangers and either cut the old harness at the point
where
>it enters the cockpit or disconnect everyhting under the dash and pull
>the old harnness through. I prefer the former and remove both
>segments--the wiring in the engine bay and then wiring in the cockpit.
>Some feel otherwise about the cockpit wiring--see below.
>
>4. Start installing the new harness in the engine bay. The first
thing
>you must do is push the harness into the cockpit via the large hole in
>the firewall. Secure the grommet.
>
>5. Then re-install things starting on the right hand side of the
engine
>(generator). Move up to the firewall and continue across. Connect up
>teh control box, the frame harness and the pigtail leading to the
>headlamp dip switch, the windshield wiper switch, etc., as you move
>along, using the polaroids as your guide. Then go down the other side
>to the directional relay, the cross harness and the headlamp pigtail
>harnesses.
> By the way, I wrap the harness in the engine bay with 3M plastic
>tape.
>
> 6. As far as the cockpit is concerned, You have two choices:
>remove
>the old wiring and replace the old wiring connections one at a time, or
>simply remove the old wiring and start clean. I find that leaving the
>old wiring on place and using the one-at-a-time approach clogs up the
>underside with a lot of wires, so I prefer to remove all the wiring and
>start clean. I find that the wires more or less fall into place and that
>the color coding and a copy of the wiring diagram is all that is needed
>to make the correct connections. Your choice. Above all, don't be
>daunted. Cockpit wiring may seem complex, but all it is is backache.
>
> As far as converting to neg ground, there is nothing in the wiring
>that
>has to be changed. The wires don't care. You will have to reverse the
>coil and the fuel pump however, repolarize the generator and change the
>battery around. But again that does not have anything to do with the
>harness. Have fun. Let me know how you are progressing. John
>Trifari 1955 BN1/1965 BJ8
> >
> > Good day listers,
> >
> > I (not the car) finally broke down and bought a new harness and
> > planning to install it. It looks great in the box - can't wait to
>see
> > it in the car.
> >
> > I am hoping some of you can share advice on do's and don'ts before
I
> > undertake this intimidating challenge. For background, the car is
>all
> > together with engine and tranny in. Following, the hopefully
> > successful install, I will be converting it from positive earth to
> > negative earth.
> >
> > Any advice is greatly appreciated.
> >
> > Best regards,
> > Carlos Cruz
> > '60 AH3kBN7
From "Andrew Shrimpton" <stanhickeycon at clear.net.nz>
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 07:59:21 +1200
Subject: Screen washers etc
Can anyone tell me what an original windscreen washer bottle from a
BT7 looks like, and what other car it may be the same as. Similarly
the inside door handles, what other Austin might they be off.
Also is there a correct colour for wire wheels
Thanks
Andrew
BT7
From Iwaah at aol.com
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 16:30:41 EDT
Subject: Re: Stub axles.
As Jimmy Buffet says MATH SUCKS
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 13:41:12 -0700
Subject: Re: Screen washers etc
Andrew,
The washer bottle in my "60 BT7 is still the original, and a quick
check yielded the following: Material-opaque white plastic, probably
polystyrene. Diameter-3.625 in.
Length of bottle, not including threaded neck-7.250 in. 2.125 in.
screw-on cap w/ one small breather hole, and nipple for flex tube
attachment.
The following is molded into the bottom of the bottle: Manufactured by
Tudor accessories, Hayes, Middlesex. Made in England
Hope this helps,
Terry Blubaugh
Andrew Shrimpton wrote:
> Can anyone tell me what an original windscreen washer bottle from a
> BT7 looks like, and what other car it may be the same as. Similarly
> the inside door handles, what other Austin might they be off.
>
> Also is there a correct colour for wire wheels
>
> Thanks
>
> Andrew
> BT7
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 14:51:47 -0700
Subject: Re: Screen washers etc
Sorry Andrew, I meant to say "polypropylene" (sp?), not polystyrene.
Terry
Terry Blubaugh wrote:
> Andrew,
>
> The washer bottle in my "60 BT7 is still the original, and a quick
> check yielded the following: Material-opaque white plastic, probably
> polystyrene. Diameter-3.625 in.
> Length of bottle, not including threaded neck-7.250 in. 2.125 in.
> screw-on cap w/ one small breather hole, and nipple for flex tube
> attachment.
>
> The following is molded into the bottom of the bottle: Manufactured by
> Tudor accessories, Hayes, Middlesex. Made in England
>
> Hope this helps,
>
> Terry Blubaugh
>
> Andrew Shrimpton wrote:
>
> > Can anyone tell me what an original windscreen washer bottle from a
> > BT7 looks like, and what other car it may be the same as. Similarly
> > the inside door handles, what other Austin might they be off.
> >
> > Also is there a correct colour for wire wheels
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Andrew
> > BT7
From "Mike Goode" <mgoode at netjets.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 15:33:11 -0700
Subject: Emission testing (chapter 2)
Listers:
Need more help. I am trying to get my BJ8 registered as a '66 and not
a '67 as it is now. That would solve a lot of my problems concerning
emission testing since '66's are exempt but the '67 is not. If this
fails, I am sentenced to annual testing to renew my registration here
in AZ. Could be expensive...
So, I decided to go after the year of registration with the DMV. In
talking to them, they say that if I can find anyone with a production
number subsequent to mine (40462) that is registered as a '66, they
would accept that as evidence that mine could be a '66 as well. I know
I could go to the Registry and get the production date, but I said I
would be unwilling to pay for the certificate. The information they
requested from the British government was non committal as to the
production date (they will not pay for the info so I will not either).
Therefore, there is enough doubt about the year, that this is their
solution.
Anyone out there fit this criteria? If so, would you be willing to
fax in your registration to me to prove it? I have a chance if I can
find just one car.
Thanks for the help....wow do I love dealing with the bureaucracy!
Mike Goode
'66 or '67 BJ-8/40462
480-563-0601 (Fax)
mlgoode@msn.com
From Peter Brauen <pbrauen at telepak.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 00 19:03:03 -0500
Subject: Re: Emission testing (chapter 2)
Hey Mike,
Good luck trying to prove your car is a '66. The problem you have is
that in order for your car to be considered a '66 it must be produced before
October 1st '66, not merely the end of the year, as that is considered the
model year changeover date. If you don't want a Heritage certificate for
your own satisfaction, don't waste your money and certainly don't make the
state buy it, as probably it will work against you, (I suspect you already
know this) and you don't want to put that info in the enemy's hands. Judging
by the number, I would be shocked if your car were produced any earlier than
March '67. Cars were commonly registered later than their year (by
unscroupulous dealers?) but the opposite is rarely true. Try contacting
Steve Byers with the BJ8 registry; he may be able to put you in contact with
an owner of a later car registered as a '66. Failing that, try Titles
Unlimited in Alabama. Good luck!---Peter
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Goode <mgoode@netjets.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, June 15, 2000 5:52 PM
Subject: Emission testing (chapter 2)
Listers:
Need more help. I am trying to get my BJ8 registered as a '66 and not
a '67 as it is now. That would solve a lot of my problems concerning
emission testing since '66's are exempt but the '67 is not. If this
fails, I am sentenced to annual testing to renew my registration here
in AZ. Could be expensive...
So, I decided to go after the year of registration with the DMV. In
talking to them, they say that if I can find anyone with a production
number subsequent to mine (40462) that is registered as a '66, they
would accept that as evidence that mine could be a '66 as well. I know
I could go to the Registry and get the production date, but I said I
would be unwilling to pay for the certificate. The information they
requested from the British government was non committal as to the
production date (they will not pay for the info so I will not either).
Therefore, there is enough doubt about the year, that this is their
solution.
Anyone out there fit this criteria? If so, would you be willing to
fax in your registration to me to prove it? I have a chance if I can
find just one car.
Thanks for the help....wow do I love dealing with the bureaucracy!
Mike Goode
'66 or '67 BJ-8/40462
480-563-0601 (Fax)
mlgoode@msn.com
From "Mike Goode" <mgoode at netjets.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 17:04:52 -0700
Subject: Re: Emission testing (chapter 2)
Peter:
Thanks for the info. You are correct, don't want to spend the money
and have it work against me. Steve and I have had several e-mail
exchanges concerning this issue. It is a long shot, but worth a try.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Brauen" <pbrauen@telepak.net>
To: "Mike Goode" <mgoode@netjets.com>
Cc: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2000 5:03 PM
Subject: Re: Emission testing (chapter 2)
> Hey Mike,
> Good luck trying to prove your car is a '66. The problem you
have is
> that in order for your car to be considered a '66 it must be
produced before
> October 1st '66, not merely the end of the year, as that is
considered the
> model year changeover date. If you don't want a Heritage certificate
for
> your own satisfaction, don't waste your money and certainly don't
make the
> state buy it, as probably it will work against you, (I suspect you
already
> know this) and you don't want to put that info in the enemy's hands.
Judging
> by the number, I would be shocked if your car were produced any
earlier than
> March '67. Cars were commonly registered later than their year (by
> unscroupulous dealers?) but the opposite is rarely true. Try
contacting
> Steve Byers with the BJ8 registry; he may be able to put you in
contact with
> an owner of a later car registered as a '66. Failing that, try
Titles
> Unlimited in Alabama. Good luck!---Peter
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mike Goode <mgoode@netjets.com>
> To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Thursday, June 15, 2000 5:52 PM
> Subject: Emission testing (chapter 2)
>
>
>
> Listers:
>
> Need more help. I am trying to get my BJ8 registered as a '66
and not
> a '67 as it is now. That would solve a lot of my problems
concerning
> emission testing since '66's are exempt but the '67 is not. If
this
> fails, I am sentenced to annual testing to renew my registration
here
> in AZ. Could be expensive...
>
> So, I decided to go after the year of registration with the DMV.
In
> talking to them, they say that if I can find anyone with a
production
> number subsequent to mine (40462) that is registered as a '66,
they
> would accept that as evidence that mine could be a '66 as well.
I know
> I could go to the Registry and get the production date, but I
said I
> would be unwilling to pay for the certificate. The information
they
> requested from the British government was non committal as to
the
> production date (they will not pay for the info so I will not
either).
> Therefore, there is enough doubt about the year, that this is
their
> solution.
>
> Anyone out there fit this criteria? If so, would you be willing
to
> fax in your registration to me to prove it? I have a chance if
I can
> find just one car.
>
> Thanks for the help....wow do I love dealing with the
bureaucracy!
>
> Mike Goode
> '66 or '67 BJ-8/40462
>
> 480-563-0601 (Fax)
> mlgoode@msn.com
>
>
>
From "Patrick QUINN" <QUINNP at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 10:09:38 +1000
Subject: Re: Heritage Certificate
Hi Michael
As I sit here trying to avoid working I have the occasional flash of
inspiration.
How about I contact the President of the Mini club here, whom I happen to know?
I am sure that they have copies of build records and other useful bits.
Could you let me know the salient numbers of the car and I'll let you know.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
>>> Michael Salter 16/06/00 1:31:06 >>>
Many thanks to all who replied to my request about the Heritage Certificate for
my Aussie Cooper "S".
As most respondents suspected they are unable to help.
It was worth a shot.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 20:15:29 -0400
Subject: Re: Emission testing (chapter 2)
Hi, Mike --
The BJ8 registry has a record of 4 cars with chassis numbers later than
yours that are registered as '66s (not all the cars in the registry have
that information recorded). Unfortunately, two of them are in Australia,
one in Holland, and one in Germany. However, there is a good chance that
all of these once lived in the States. If you think this could help you,
please let me know and I'll pursue it for you.
Steve Byers
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Goode <mgoode@netjets.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, June 15, 2000 6:46 PM
Subject: Emission testing (chapter 2)
>
>Listers:
>
>Need more help. I am trying to get my BJ8 registered as a '66 and not
>a '67 as it is now. That would solve a lot of my problems concerning
>emission testing since '66's are exempt but the '67 is not. If this
>fails, I am sentenced to annual testing to renew my registration here
>in AZ. Could be expensive...
>
>So, I decided to go after the year of registration with the DMV. In
>talking to them, they say that if I can find anyone with a production
>number subsequent to mine (40462) that is registered as a '66, they
>would accept that as evidence that mine could be a '66 as well. I know
>I could go to the Registry and get the production date, but I said I
>would be unwilling to pay for the certificate. The information they
>requested from the British government was non committal as to the
>production date (they will not pay for the info so I will not either).
>Therefore, there is enough doubt about the year, that this is their
>solution.
>
>Anyone out there fit this criteria? If so, would you be willing to
>fax in your registration to me to prove it? I have a chance if I can
>find just one car.
>
>Thanks for the help....wow do I love dealing with the bureaucracy!
>
>Mike Goode
>'66 or '67 BJ-8/40462
>
>480-563-0601 (Fax)
>mlgoode@msn.com
>
>
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 21:13:57 EDT
Subject: Re: New Electical Harness
In a message dated 06/15/2000 2:23:12 PM Central Daylight Time,
fjscheuble@hiserv-na.com writes:
<<
Thanks, guys, I have all kind od harness tape, and even old 30's cloth,
however its not easy to make it look like its not a patch job... >>
And, Fred, you are not gonna. BTTT - Don't work ; UNLESS
you have a second old harni with same markings, wanna spend HOURS making both
align and reweave same. Figure one area "patched" would pay for entire NEW
harness!?!?!? Huuum....
Cheers.............
Ed
From Bill Pollock <wjpollock at erols.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 21:17:51 -0400
Subject: Re: New England AHCA Website?
Have my lastest copy of "Northeast News" here in front of me. Contact Carole
Paye at PO Box 391,Greenfield Mass 01302.
Bill Pollock
CT 59 BN4
CAWS52803@aol.com wrote:
> Hi Listers,
> Does anyone out there know the site address for the NE club? Or if they even
> have one? Since I have moved to North Carolina from Connecticut, I just
> wanted to keep up with the news of my favorite club. Thanks for any help.
> Rudy Streng
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 21:25:39 EDT
Subject: Re: Emission testing (chapter 2)
In a message dated 06/15/2000 5:37:26 PM Central Daylight Time,
mgoode@netjets.com writes:
<< (they will not pay for the info so I will not either). >>
Jeh*s H. Chr*st, Mike. The Cert. is $40.00 godda*ned dollars!!!
Suppose you put Band*ag retreads on for tires too??? Use OLD oil from every
day driver automobile?? Nah, you must use strap-on roller skates with
used/recycled wheels, huh?? Do you cut up old tires to make into sandles??
Geeeeeeesh!!
Ed
From Mr Finespanner <mrfinespanner at blazenet.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 22:04:16 -0700
Subject: Re: Splined Hubs: 8 tpi vs. 12 tpi?
Chris,
Don't use used knock-off hubs - it's hard for most people to tell if the
splines are worn and the results could cost much more than the cost of 4
new hubs. Wait if you have to, but put new hubs on when you can afford
them.
As far as 8 tpi hubs vs. 12 tpi hubs - the only reason for the change was
when the NHSTA dictated that "eared" knock-offs were dangerous to
pedestrians. The change to octagon knock-offs included changing from 12
to 8 tpi so we couldn't switch back to the dangerous "eared" type.
Either 8 or 12 tpi hubs in excellent condition are more than adequate and
properly tightened should never strip nor loosen..
Del Border
Tri-Carb OO
Chris & Dawne Yusi wrote:
> Hey all,
>
> I'm looking for some used knock-off hubs for my BT7. The prices are
> steep, and I'm on a tight budget. Does anyone have a set in good
> condition?
>
> Also, I recall the recent thread on losing knockoffs on the road.
> There was mention of the 8 tpi being less likely to strip. Is this a
> common problem? Does anyone have an opinion on 8 tpi hubs vs. the 12
> tpi?
>
> Thanks,
>
> - Chris
From "Mike Goode" <mgoode at netjets.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 19:21:01 -0700
Subject: Re: Emission testing (chapter 2)
The money is not the point. I will probably get it anyway, later.
Bottom line is, as one of the listers put it..."probably it will work
against you, (I suspect you already know this) and you don't want to
put that info in the enemy's hands." If I have it and it proves their
point, I have nothing to stand on. Cut me some slack...
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: <JustBrits@aol.com>
To: <mgoode@netjets.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2000 6:25 PM
Subject: Re: Emission testing (chapter 2)
> In a message dated 06/15/2000 5:37:26 PM Central Daylight Time,
> mgoode@netjets.com writes:
>
> << (they will not pay for the info so I will not either). >>
>
> Jeh*s H. Chr*st, Mike. The Cert. is $40.00 godda*ned dollars!!!
>
> Suppose you put Band*ag retreads on for tires too??? Use OLD oil
from every
> day driver automobile?? Nah, you must use strap-on roller skates
with
> used/recycled wheels, huh?? Do you cut up old tires to make into
sandles??
>
> Geeeeeeesh!!
>
> Ed
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 21:38:54 -0700
Subject: Re: free gas tank
The gas tank has apparently found a new home. I'll post again if it
becomes available for some reason.
-Roland
On Thu, 15 Jun 2000 12:25:45 -0700, I wrote:
:: Free to a good home. FOB Rancho Santa Fe.
From "Mike Goode" <mgoode at netjets.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 21:56:43 -0700
Subject: Re: Emission testing (chapter 2)
Yep, my position exactly. I am trying to avoid giving them hard
evidence to disprove my position. If I know the date, I can no longer
claim ignorance.
Thanks for your input....Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jhayspu@aol.com>
To: <mgoode@netjets.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2000 8:04 PM
Subject: Re: Emission testing (chapter 2)
> My 1962 BT7 Mk. II 3000 was actually built in June of 1961. If you
are
> trying to prove your car was built earlier than the licensed year,
the
> certificate should help you. If it doesn't, don't share it with the
> government. If the government gets the certificate and it doesn't
help you,
> you are screwed.
>
> Dr. Jerry Hay
> Associate Professor
> Spalding University
> 851 South Fourth Street
> Louisville, KY 40203
From "Alan Tadd" <Alan at tadd1.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 09:37:37 +0100
Subject: Rain Channel
Listers
I was refurbishing the rear rain channel (guttering?)on my BJ7 the other day
in preparation for re-assembly.
A friend of mine who has a BJ8 was with me at the time and said that the
fitting on his was a totally different design. Mine has, (what looks like),
jointed end sections, (approx 4" long) that connect to the overflow tubes.
His channel is one piece.
I am now a little concerned that mine may not be original and may have been
modified by a previous owner as it does not seem very "waterproof". This may
have been why my BJ7 needed new inner rear wings which could have been
caused by the inadequacy of this channel.
Can anyone tell me which is correct?...Incidentally I thought these parts
were always painted a light grey colour, but his BJ8 one is black?
If mine is correct has anyone modified the channel to make it more
waterproof?...I would hate to have the same problem re-occur.
I guess this question is fairly academic to you guys living in California
etc, but we do tend to make "full use" of the rain channels over here!.
Regards
Alan Tadd
(UK) BJ7
From M Brouillette <mbrouill at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 08:40:06 -0400
Subject: Re: New England AHCA Website?
The Northeast Austin healey site can be found at:
http://ahcaneregion.homestead.com/
From "Scheuble, Fred J., HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 09:12:44 -0400
Subject: RE: New Electical Harness
probably right, never experienced any quick fix for any restoration I did, I
should know better..
-----Original Message-----
From: JustBrits@aol.com [mailto:JustBrits@aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2000 9:14 PM
To: fjscheuble@hiserv-na.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: New Electical Harness
In a message dated 06/15/2000 2:23:12 PM Central Daylight Time,
fjscheuble@hiserv-na.com writes:
<<
Thanks, guys, I have all kind od harness tape, and even old 30's cloth,
however its not easy to make it look like its not a patch job... >>
And, Fred, you are not gonna. BTTT - Don't work ; UNLESS
you have a second old harni with same markings, wanna spend HOURS making
both
align and reweave same. Figure one area "patched" would pay for entire NEW
harness!?!?!? Huuum....
Cheers.............
Ed
From "Scheuble, Fred J., HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 09:27:10 -0400
Subject: electrolytic corrosion
Hi All,
has anyone use any products like POR 15 (rust/paint coating) in
areas where the steel and aluminum meet in order to minimize the corrosion
and have had good results.
Thanks,
Fred
From "Scheuble, Fred J., HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 09:42:10 -0400
Subject: paint code
I tried to buy Colorado red using this paint code: ICI 3742, and the shop
could not cross reference that code, does anyone know the ditzler or RM code
Thanks,
Fred
From Martin Johnson <MJohnson at cfworks.com>
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 08:42:53 -0700
Subject: RE: Emission testing (chapter 2)
Um- Opinion from a lawyer: If it's bad, don't hand it over. If it's
good, ram it up their tailpipe...
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Goode [mailto:mgoode@netjets.com]
Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2000 7:21 PM
To: JustBrits@aol.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Emission testing (chapter 2)
The money is not the point. I will probably get it anyway, later.
Bottom line is, as one of the listers put it..."probably it will work
against you, (I suspect you already know this) and you don't want to
put that info in the enemy's hands." If I have it and it proves their
point, I have nothing to stand on. Cut me some slack...
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: <JustBrits@aol.com>
To: <mgoode@netjets.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2000 6:25 PM
Subject: Re: Emission testing (chapter 2)
> In a message dated 06/15/2000 5:37:26 PM Central Daylight Time,
> mgoode@netjets.com writes:
>
> << (they will not pay for the info so I will not either). >>
>
> Jeh*s H. Chr*st, Mike. The Cert. is $40.00 godda*ned dollars!!!
>
> Suppose you put Band*ag retreads on for tires too??? Use OLD oil
from every
> day driver automobile?? Nah, you must use strap-on roller skates
with
> used/recycled wheels, huh?? Do you cut up old tires to make into
sandles??
>
> Geeeeeeesh!!
>
> Ed
From type79 at ix.netcom.com
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 12:17:27 -0400
Subject: Re: New England AHCA Website?
Listers,
Wonders will never cease.
Only a year or so ago AHCA raised dues to cover expenses. When the
subject of an AHCA dues increase was discussed in this forum, the
defenders cited numerous increases in expenses including the costs
associated with Healey Marque, yada yada yada. (See the archives.)
Now apparently they have so much $$$$$$ that among other things, they
are discussing building and GIVING AWAY a concours Healey.
So much for scraping to cover expenses.
I quote from the website:
" Items from the national delegates meeting were discussed. Some of the
items talked about were buying books for auto-related libraries and
building a concours 100 to give to Gerry Coker."
http://ahcaneregion.homestead.com/01coord.html
I said at the time that the increase was unnecessary and this is just
further proof.
There are great local regions of AHCA and I always advocate that every
car owner should belong to at least one marque club, but it's
expenditures like this (and others that are not openly discussed) that
inflate the dues to unnecessary levels.
I'm sure my mailbox will receive the usual responses from the usual
suspects, but so be it.
Shaking my head in disbelief,
Jay Fishbein
Wallingford, CT
Someone wrote:
> The Northeast Austin healey site can be found at:
>
> http://ahcaneregion.homestead.com/
From Martin Johnson <MJohnson at cfworks.com>
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 09:37:55 -0700
Subject: RE: Emission testing (chapter 2)
Sure you can. You are not under oath. Do you have a moral concern with
making the pitch to the Arizona DMV that the car is a 1966, if it was
made in 1967? The big picture with British cars is what series they
are, not the year model produced. American car makers used the model
year to introduce the substantial changes mandated by DOT or Congress,
like smog equipment and seat belts. We all know that our LBC's changed
intermitantly without much regard to year model until the later years.
You are being penalized for having a piece of British engineering that
was legally sold here in the U.S. under then existing Federal law. The
U.S. allowed that car to be sold here, so as long as it's "original"
with regard to the way the engine breathes, the state of Arizona should
not be able to restrict your use of it. Possibly, that's a "taking"
contitutionally, if you can't use your car. So with that rationale, if
you find that it was produced in 1967, then morally, who cares if you
have knowledge; you just have to attack the problem a different way. It
probably doesn't amount to a tinker's damn the difference between a BJ8
produced in 1966 to one produced in 1967 with regard to the fuel system,
manifolding and crankcase ventilation. Ethically, if you have trouble
with that, everyone with a 1966 BJ8 in Arizona should junk their cars if
you are going to be consistent with the spirit of that law. Personally,
I think they are being pretty nice to allow evidence that later serial
number cars registered as '66 to make a decision in your matter. I
would still get the Hertiage certificate. Putting my mechanic's
overalls on, maybe the reason it doesn't pass smog is because it really
is a 1966. If your car is in spec, it should pass the smog requirements
for 1967, if it is a 1967. OR maybe the standards applied to your car
are incorrect for a 1967 BJ8? Good luck, friend...
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Goode [mailto:mgoode@netjets.com]
Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2000 9:57 PM
To: Jhayspu@aol.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Emission testing (chapter 2)
Yep, my position exactly. I am trying to avoid giving them hard
evidence to disprove my position. If I know the date, I can no longer
claim ignorance.
Thanks for your input....Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jhayspu@aol.com>
To: <mgoode@netjets.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2000 8:04 PM
Subject: Re: Emission testing (chapter 2)
> My 1962 BT7 Mk. II 3000 was actually built in June of 1961. If you
are
> trying to prove your car was built earlier than the licensed year,
the
> certificate should help you. If it doesn't, don't share it with the
> government. If the government gets the certificate and it doesn't
help you,
> you are screwed.
>
> Dr. Jerry Hay
> Associate Professor
> Spalding University
> 851 South Fourth Street
> Louisville, KY 40203
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 12:46:07 EDT
Subject: Re: New England AHCA Website?
I was in a meeting a few years ago when the subject of giving Gerry Coker a
restored Healey was brought up. After several minutes, someone finally had
the courage to ask the group why didn't Gerry ever buy one himself? If he
had such an interest, you would think he would own a car he designed. The
subject was then dropped.
Rudy in NC
From M Brouillette <mbrouill at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 12:51:37 -0400
Subject: Re: New England AHCA Website?
Jay,
Being that this is a freedom of speech issue on both sides I don't
have a problem. You for speaking your mind, and for someone at the
coordinators' meeting making that suggestion. Only thing you forgot is
that this was brought up as a suggestion (and a nice thought too), but it
would not be the thing that would get voted on and agreed to at that type
of meeting.
When the vote does come up on an issue like that, there will definitely
be open conversation about this issue and we all will definitely be
speaking our minds.
Me personally, I didn't have an issue with the increase for what I get
out of this national and local club. It's worth the price just for the
resources book, magazine and the technical contacts, so, I will continue
paying.
As for the car build, let's see the numbers on what it's going to cost
the club or will the materials and time be donated...
Mike Brouillette
59 BT7
Bedford, NH
At 12:17 PM 6/16/00 -0400, type79@ix.netcom.com wrote:
>Listers,
>Wonders will never cease.
>
>Only a year or so ago AHCA raised dues to cover expenses. When the
>subject of an AHCA dues increase was discussed in this forum, the
>defenders cited numerous increases in expenses including the costs
>associated with Healey Marque, yada yada yada. (See the archives.)
>
>Now apparently they have so much $$$$$$ that among other things, they
>are discussing building and GIVING AWAY a concours Healey.
>
>So much for scraping to cover expenses.
>
>I quote from the website:
>" Items from the national delegates meeting were discussed. Some of the
>items talked about were buying books for auto-related libraries and
>building a concours 100 to give to Gerry Coker."
>
>http://ahcaneregion.homestead.com/01coord.html
>
>I said at the time that the increase was unnecessary and this is just
>further proof.
>
>There are great local regions of AHCA and I always advocate that every
>car owner should belong to at least one marque club, but it's
>expenditures like this (and others that are not openly discussed) that
>inflate the dues to unnecessary levels.
>
>I'm sure my mailbox will receive the usual responses from the usual
>suspects, but so be it.
>
>Shaking my head in disbelief,
>Jay Fishbein
>Wallingford, CT
>
>Someone wrote:
>
> > The Northeast Austin healey site can be found at:
> >
> > http://ahcaneregion.homestead.com/
From Herman Farrer <herman at hfphoto.com>
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 13:04:49 -0400
Subject: Re: New England AHCA Website?
>Now apparently they have so much $$$$$$ that among other things, they
>are discussing building and GIVING AWAY a concours Healey.
>
>So much for scraping to cover expenses.
>
>I quote from the website:
>" Items from the national delegates meeting were discussed. Some of the
>items talked about were buying books for auto-related libraries and
>building a concours 100 to give to Gerry Coker."
>
As one who was at the delegate's meeting, it is my understanding that
the funds will come from donations made by local clubs, businesses,
and individuals and not the AHCA. It will remain the property of the
AHCA and hopefully be placed in a museum after is spends some time
with Gerry. (By the way, it's supposed to be a surprise.)
I'm sure that Mike Schneider can provide further details for you.
I hope you feel better. And be careful not to trip getting off your soap box.
Herman Farrer
--
Capital Area Austin Healey Club
http://lightning.prohosting.com/~caahc
From Barry Pate <jbpate at attglobal.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 13:04:51 -0400
Subject: Radiator core
Has anyone recored the radiator with 5 row rather than 4 row core? Does
this change the flow resistance inside the radiator or have any adverse
effects? Did it help reduce overheating during the summer.Barry Pate
1967 BJ8
--
GIF89aHH
From Iwaah at aol.com
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 13:15:36 EDT
Subject: Original or not
Gentlemen
After six months of watching this list and looking around the US, I think
that I have finally found my Healey. I have my first question for the list.
How do I go about finding out if the numbers (body, engine, trans) are the
original or have been replaced?
TIA
John
(hopefully) BJ7
From Todd S Taylor <todd.s.taylor at lmco.com>
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 13:17:35 -0400
Subject: Re: New England AHCA Website?
HA! HA! good point!! maybe there's something we don't know about??????
CAWS52803@aol.com wrote:
> I was in a meeting a few years ago when the subject of giving Gerry Coker a
> restored Healey was brought up. After several minutes, someone finally had
> the courage to ask the group why didn't Gerry ever buy one himself? If he
> had such an interest, you would think he would own a car he designed. The
> subject was then dropped.
> Rudy in NC
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 10:18:19 -0700
Subject: Re: New England AHCA Website?
I'd sooner see them build one and give it to a charity in DMH's Gerry's name.
my 2 cents
bk
---------------------
At 09:46 AM 6/16/00 , you wrote:
>I was in a meeting a few years ago when the subject of giving Gerry Coker a
>restored Healey was brought up. After several minutes, someone finally had
>the courage to ask the group why didn't Gerry ever buy one himself? If he
>had such an interest, you would think he would own a car he designed. The
>subject was then dropped.
>Rudy in NC
From "Robin Astle" <rastle at freenet.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 18:35:44 +0100
Subject: Harrington Le Mans
An old topic now I know, but I had to show the recent correspondence on the
above subject to a friend of mine Tony Willock, who amongst his collection
of Alpines has a Harrington Le Mans. Below are his comments.
Robin Astle.
Harringtons were a firm of coachbuilders based in Hove (Brighton) UK. They
were
granted license to convert Sunbeam Alpine sportscars built by the
Rootes
group into a 'fastback' GT version.
4 versions were produced, types A, B, C & D.
Type A. Had a glass fibre roof, short boot and retained the cars rear fins.
These were based on the Alpine Series 2, though it is thought that a
few
were made on a series 1 (though I have never personally seen one).
Type B. This is the 'le mans' you refer to, and was produced to celebrate
the
Index of thermal efficiency win by a modified A type (3000 RW) at Le
Mans
in 1962. For this model the rear wings were cut away and a glass fibre
roof complete with opening tailgate bonded on. All were based on
series
2's.
Type C. As for the Type B this has a glass fibre roof with opening tailgate,
but
the wings were not cut away. Again based on the series 2.
Type D. As the Type C but based on the series 3 and 4 Alpines. At least
1Tiger
conversion is known to exist.
In all about 400 were made of which approximately 250 were the harrington Le
Mans.
The Tigers that raced at Le mans were not Harrington bodied, but were
converted
by Listers.
The Harrington Alpines are the most desirable Alpine derivatives and
therefore
command the highest prices. They are still not expensive (in
comparison
with Healeys), but if they are rotten (as they often are in the UK)
are
fairly expensive to repair as they have a three section sill.
Hope the above satisfies your curiosity.
TRW
From "Robin Astle" <rastle at freenet.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 18:37:14 +0100
Subject: UK Web Sites, OD Switches & Crank Oil Seals
The subject is a bit of a mouthful! but first some advertising; three UK
Austin Healey Club web sites:
http://www.austin-healey-club.co.uk/index.htm Thames Valley Centre.
http://www.austin-healey-club-ec.fsnet.co.uk/ Eastern Centre.
http://www.austinhealeyclub.co.uk Midland Centre (mine)
The TV site has been running for some time now but the other two started
this year.
Of interest to the list may be a couple of items on my Technical Page, one
on an alternative OD switch arrangement which prevents that annoying leap
from 2nd to OD 3rd when accelerating back up through the gears and you have
forgotten to switch the OD off. The other illustrating the fitting of an
oil seal to the rear of the crankshaft.
Robin Astle.
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 13:34:43 EDT
Subject: Fwd: New England AHCA Website?
--part1_8.67068e9.267bbf33_boundary
In a message dated 6/16/00 1:32:42 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Awgertoo writes:
<< In a message dated 6/16/00 12:33:17 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
type79@ix.netcom.com writes:
<< I'm sure my mailbox will receive the usual responses from the usual
suspects, but so be it. >>
Jay--
I'm with you! It's real nice to let Coker know how much we treasure his
design, but GIVING him a 100M! What about me? I've been an ardent supporter
of the marque since the early 60's--shouldn't I get at least a rustbucket
Sprite or something?
But seriously, I am opposed to the concept--not because he doesn't (or does)
deserve such an honorarium, but simply because I do not feel that is
"mission" of either the National Club or Local Regions. If we want to start
"doing good" there are a lot better causes, so let us not be acting in a
philanthropic manner.
I for one am also not into promoting and prolonging the Cult of Personality
surrounding DMH and his progenies--but that is a different story.
Michael Oritt--St. Leonard, MD.
Capital Area Austin-Healey Club
(needs a 100M) >>
--part1_8.67068e9.267bbf33_boundary
Content-Disposition: inline
Return-path: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
From: Awgertoo@aol.com
Full-name: Awgertoo
Message-ID: <a8.67f61d8.267bbeba@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 13:32:42 EDT
Subject: Re: New England AHCA Website?
To: type79@ix.netcom.com
MIME-Version: 1.0
X-Mailer: AOL 4.0 for Windows 95 sub 106
In a message dated 6/16/00 12:33:17 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
type79@ix.netcom.com writes:
<< I'm sure my mailbox will receive the usual responses from the usual
suspects, but so be it. >>
Jay--
I'm with you! It's real nice to let Coker know how much we treasure his
design, but GIVING him a 100M! What about me? I've been an ardent supporter
of the marque since the early 60's--shouldn't I get at least a rustbucket
Sprite or something?
But seriously, I am opposed to the concept--not because he doesn't (or does)
deserve such an honorarium, but simply because I do not feel that is
"mission" of either the National Club or Local Regions. If we want to start
"doing good" there are a lot better causes, so let us not be acting in a
philanthropic manner.
I for one am also not into promoting and prolonging the Cult of Personality
surrounding DMH and his progenies--but that is a different story.
Michael Oritt--St. Leonard, MD.
Capital Area Austin-Healey Club
(needs a 100M)
--part1_8.67068e9.267bbf33_boundary--
From type79 at ix.netcom.com
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 13:44:57 -0400
Subject: Re: New England AHCA Website?
David,
The quotes you make reference to are what the Northeast Region members felt they
should do as a region. My statements are in reference to the "National" clubs
spending habits.
PS I'm not going to post personal emails, but the ones I have already received
on
this from AHCA members don't seem supportive of these projects.
Jay Fishbein
Wallingford, CT
From BGAHC at aol.com
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 15:33:51 EDT
Subject: Re: New England AHCA Website?
My . 02 worth as I understand it:
The 100 project is NOT FINANCED by the AHCA and is not going to be given free
to Gerry Coker.
The plan is for the AHCA to seek donations to build a 100 that would be a
traveling "museum car." Originally a suggestion was made that Coker could use
it occasionally but he has since declined the offer.
The idea is that clubs would donate parts for the car, sponsors would be
found to help with paint, interior etc. After this car is assembled it would
rotate among auto museums and events to help promote the marque.
The Bluegrass club had a member offer a rear end and other parts. Our club
has offered to rebuild the parts as a club project and donate them to the
cause. Other clubs have made similar offers.
The project is still in the preliminary stage. Mike Schneider is the AHCA
chairman and he is reporting strong positive feedback so far. Mike is no
longer on the list but I have forwarded him several of the comments and I am
sure he can provide more info.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
1957 BN4 Rally Car
1966 BJ8
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 15:59:33 -0400
Subject: Re: Original or not
Hi, John --
The BMIHT certificate will give you all of the original numbers for the car;
but If you don't want to get the certificate before you buy the car, contact
the keeper of the BJ7 registry, Tom Blaskovics
(http://www.serve.com/AHCA/ahcareg.htm). He can perhaps tell whether the
body number and engine number of the car are consistent with the car's VIN
by comparing it with other cars with nearby VINs in his registry.
Each model registry collects its own data of interest, and I could help you
if the car was a BJ8. I'm not sure if Tom keeps a record of the
body/engine/trans numbers, but it's worth a shot.
Good luck!
Steve Byers
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: Iwaah@aol.com <Iwaah@aol.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, June 16, 2000 1:34 PM
Subject: Original or not
>
>Gentlemen
>After six months of watching this list and looking around the US, I think
>that I have finally found my Healey. I have my first question for the
list.
>How do I go about finding out if the numbers (body, engine, trans) are the
>original or have been replaced?
>TIA
>John
>(hopefully) BJ7
From "John Sims" <J_L_Sims at email.msn.com>
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 14:03:22 -0700
Subject: Parts List
I just returned from my local Pep Boys and the thought struck me that every
once in a while someone on the list will give a commercially available parts
number for things such as thermostats, fan belts etc.
Has anyone ever put together a complete (if possible) list of those items
and their part numbers available at such chains as Pep Boys, Checker Auto
Parts, etc????
John Sims, BN6
Las Vegas
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 18:32:53 -0400
Subject: Re: Any words of wisom for BJ8 front bearings
Hello again, Mike --
Whoops! You are correct about roller bearings being used in BJ8s instead of
ball bearings. It has been some time since I worked on the hubs of my BJ8,
but not too long since replacing the bearings in my Midget, which are ball
bearings. I guess I was thinking about the recent similar discussion of the
function of bearings/spacers on the Spridgets list.
It's difficult to talk about structural analysis without quickly becoming
too technical or getting into the math, or writing an essay, which I would
guess few are interested in. But, I'll do my best.... The point of the
following is that the bearing/spacer/shim combination does NOT contribute to
the strength of the stub axle. Its only function is to ensure proper
pre-load of the bearings to reduce their deflection under additional loads
provided by steering movements.
In your analogy, when you torque the nut you are putting the "sleeve" under
compression which is equal and opposite to the tension you are putting on
the "axle". It's true that the bending stiffness of the sleeve and axle
combination AWAY from the base of the axle is greater than that of the axle
alone. That is because the bending stiffness depends on the cross sectional
area, which is larger for the sleeve/axle combination than for the axle
alone. There is also some relief of the bending moment at the base of the
axle due to the compressive reaction on ONE SIDE of the sleeve. However, as
I said before, there is no structural connection between the sleeve and the
base of the axle that will allow it to relieve bending stresses in all
directions.
The critical area for stresses is at the base of the axle on the side that
is put in tension by the bending load. The total tensile stress here is the
sum of the tensile stress applied by torquing the nut PLUS the stress due to
bending. That means that torquing the nut, contrary to making the stub axle
stronger, actually weakens it, as far as the resistance to bending failure
is concerned. The combination of tensile and bending stresses is closer to
the failure point of the axle than would be the case of bending alone.
The one thing that torquing the nut DOES do is to put the proper preload on
the bearings to reduce bearing deflection under operating load. The
textbook "Rolling
Bearing Analysis" by Tedric Harris on page 332 has a diagram of two bearings
separated by the outer race seats (as in a wheel), with a spacer between,
i.e., the same configuration that we are talking about with our wheel
bearings. The text says: "Precision spacers automatically provide proper
pre-load by making the inner spacer slightly shorter than the outer" (i.e.,
the outer race seats). In our Healeys, the "precision" is provided to the
spacer by the shims. On page 334 there is the statement: "Since roller
bearing deflection is almost linear with respect to load, there is not as
much advantage to be gained by axially preloading tapered roller bearings;
hence, this is not a universal practice as it is for ball bearings."
The above is the theory. The amount of torque actually applied to the nut
in the case of our wheels is not enough to significantly stress the axle;
but if it were it would hurt, not help.
'Nuff said. I think I'll go to San Diego for a week and recover.
Steve Byers -- HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: Krazy Kiwi <magicare@home.com>
To: Steve Byers <byers@cconnect.net>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, June 14, 2000 11:58 PM
Subject: Re: Any words of wisom for BJ8 front bearings
>Hi Steve,
>IMHO those who believe that "the ONLY function of the shims and spacers is
to
>properly pre-load the wheel bearings" are failing to appreciate the
principals
>of design of this type of stub axle.
>Consider this analogy. Instead of a stub axle we have a 1/4" diameter 6"
long
>stud protruding from a vertical surface. We hang a 200 lb. weight on the
outer
>end of the stud. The stud of course, being made of finest British Steel,
bends
>at the point where it is screwed into the vertical surface.
>Now slide a 1" o.d. 1/4" i.d. by 5 1/2" long sleeve over the same stud
(after
>you straightened, or better yet, replaced it), put a washer and nut on the
stud
>and tighten the nut. Now hang your 200 lb. weight on the stud. Does it
bend? Why
>not?
>This may be an exaggerated example, but the theory is the same.
>This may seem trivial to those who do not appreciate the difference but it
can
>be a life and death matter if failure to follow the instructions results in
a
>fatigue failure of a front stub axle.
>--
>Regards,
>
>Mike Salter
>http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>Steve Byers wrote:
>
>> The subject of the function of the spacers and shims comes up
periodically
>> on both this list and the spridgets list (and probably every other list
>> involving a car that uses the spacers and shims).
>>
>> Sorry to disagree with the theory of the spacer and stub axle, but the
ONLY
>> function of the spacer and shims is to properly pre-load the wheel
bearings.
>> The ball bearings used in the wheels are of the type called "angular
>> contact" bearings (marked THRUST on one side) and inherently have more
axial
>> (i.e., in and out) play between the inner and outer races than the roller
>> bearings used in more modern designs. Using these without the spacer
and
>> shims will allow too much play in the wheel with the axle nut torqued to
>> specs. If the bearings/spacer/shims are used correctly, and the nut is
only
>> torqued finger tight, there will not be the correct axial pre-load on the
>> bearings required to reduce the axial play.
>>
>> The structural thickness of the stub axle is not affected by the
>> bearing/spacer/shim stack up. Ultimately, all of the wheel loads pass
>> through the base of the stub axle where it transitions to the kingpin.
The
>> bearing/spacer shim stack up is not an integral part of the stub axle and
is
>> not attached to it by fasteners, and therefore cannot carry any
>> vertical/horizontal shear or bending loads at the base. It can only
carry
>> axial loads.
>>
>> Steve Byers
>> HBJ8L/36666
>> Havelock, NC
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Michael Salter <magicare@home.com>
>> To: James Sailer <sailer@srv.net>
>> Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
>> Date: Wednesday, June 14, 2000 12:43 PM
>> Subject: Re: Any words of wisom for BJ8 front bearings
>>
>> >
>> >James Sailer wrote:
>> >
>> >> Greetings all,
>> >>
>> >> Are there any words of wisom or things to note on replacing front
wheel
>> >> bearings? (Actually I'm replacing my front hub). Looks pretty
straight
>> >> forward.
>> >>
>> >> Thanks in advance!
>> >>
>> >> Jim Sailer
>> >> 66 BJ8 - with motor back in (still needing final plumbing) and new BWW
72
>> >> spoke wheels in the shop!
>> >
>> >Hi Jim,
>> >
>> >Most of the cars we get in have had the front wheel bearings "flat
>> rated".To
>> >us this means that the spacers and shims have been thrown ayaw and the
stub
>> >axle tighteded up "finger tight". The design of the front stub axle on
>> these
>> >cars, and most other BMC cars, is completely different from most Detroit
>> Iron
>> >and even a Triumph.
>> >The inner races of the bearings and the bearing spacer and shims form
part
>> of
>> >the stub axle structure. Running the car with the "normal just over
finger
>> >tight" stub axle nut is, I understand, the major cause of failure of the
>> stub
>> >axles.
>> >The wheel bearing clearance should be adjusted according to the manual
and
>> >the nut tightened to between 40 & 70 lb ft. This produces, in effect a
stub
>> >axle which is much thicker (including the additional diameter of the
>> >bearings) which in turn minimizes any flexing of the stub axle under
>> changing
>> >loads.
>> >Do it once. Do it right.
>> >
>> >--
>> >Regards,
>> >
>> >Mike Salter
>> >http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>> >
>> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 18:20:39 -0400
Subject: Re: New Electical Harness
1. Get a set of rubber grommets and replace all of the
ones you encounter as you install the new harness. It
will be much easier now than later.
2. Lay the harness out next to the car and use the
wiring diagram to identify all of the pieces. Label
the end of each wire to indicate where it goes.
3. Do it in sections. Replace the rear harness (fire wall back)
first and test everything (assuming the car runs now). If it all
still works, this will be a good confidence builder.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1963 BJ7
1980 MGB
----- Original Message -----
From: <ccruz@tribune.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2000 12:36 PM
Subject: New Electical Harness
>
> Good day listers,
>
> I (not the car) finally broke down and bought a new harness and
> planning to install it. It looks great in the box - can't wait to
see
> it in the car.
>
> I am hoping some of you can share advice on do's and don'ts before I
> undertake this intimidating challenge. For background, the car is
all
> together with engine and tranny in. Following, the hopefully
> successful install, I will be converting it from positive earth to
> negative earth.
>
> Any advice is greatly appreciated.
>
> Best regards,
> Carlos Cruz
> '60 AH3kBN7
>
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 18:06:36 -0700
Subject: free gas tank -- available again
The gas tank is available again. The first claimant decided to try to
rebuild his old tank (that'll cost more than a free tank), so my spare
is available again.
Here's the info from the first posting:
:: If any 6 cyl Healey owner, probably in So. Calif./San Diego area, needs a
:gas tank that works and doesn't leak, s/he should email me directly. This
:tank is not original nor is it like the Moss replacement I just installed. It
:is made of heavier gauge steel with no beads rolled in the end pieces, but it
:appears to be rust free inside and out and it fit in my BJ7. It seems to be
:slightly smaller than original and the pickup tube doesn't go as close to the
:bottom of the tank as I would like -- leaving a gallon or two that you can't
:use. However the price is right :-)
::
:: Free to a good home. FOB Rancho Santa Fe.
::
:: -Roland
From costan0 at attglobal.net
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 18:49:15 -0700
Subject: surface rust removal block and crank
Hey group,
I just bought a replacement block and crank from Bill Bolton and due to its
age, there is surface rust on both. Do you recommend sandblasting, wire
wheel or what to remove the rust. I would be taking the crank to be
reground, and my impression is that they usually clean the crank but does
that include bead blasting or does it depend on the machine shop?
Any advice would be appreciated.
Jerry
From William Moyer <William.Moyer at millersv.edu>
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 22:39:09 -0400
Subject: Mr. Coker's transportation preferences
-----Original Message-----
From: Todd S Taylor
To: Healey list
Sent: 6/16/00 1:17 PM
Subject: Re: New England AHCA Website?
HA! HA! good point!! maybe there's something we don't know
about??????
< Your absolutely right! We should all sell our Healeys as fast as we can.
All gold concours cars can be sold to me for $10,000, quick before the
market drops out. Please. I don't know what Mr. Coker drove, but I know
what he made.
Bill Moyer, BJ7
From Robert Dobrowski <rsdslp at juno.com>
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 19:30:34 -0700
Subject: Re: Rain Channel
You BJ7 sounds exactly like my BJ7. Gray rain channel with separate end
pieces.
On Fri, 16 Jun 2000 09:37:37 +0100 "Alan Tadd"
<Alan@tadd1.freeserve.co.uk> writes:
>
> Listers
>
> I was refurbishing the rear rain channel (guttering?)on my BJ7 the
> other day
> in preparation for re-assembly.
> A friend of mine who has a BJ8 was with me at the time and said
> that the
> fitting on his was a totally different design. Mine has, (what looks
> like),
> jointed end sections, (approx 4" long) that connect to the overflow
> tubes.
> His channel is one piece.
> I am now a little concerned that mine may not be original and may
> have been
> modified by a previous owner as it does not seem very "waterproof".
> This may
> have been why my BJ7 needed new inner rear wings which could have
> been
> caused by the inadequacy of this channel.
> Can anyone tell me which is correct?...Incidentally I thought these
> parts
> were always painted a light grey colour, but his BJ8 one is black?
> If mine is correct has anyone modified the channel to make it more
> waterproof?...I would hate to have the same problem re-occur.
>
> I guess this question is fairly academic to you guys living in
> California
> etc, but we do tend to make "full use" of the rain channels over
> here!.
>
> Regards
> Alan Tadd
> (UK) BJ7
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
From "Keith R. Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 23:28:53 -0400
Subject: Re: Radiator core
Barry Pate wrote:
>
> Has anyone recored the radiator with 5 row rather than 4 row core? Does
> this change the flow resistance inside the radiator or have any adverse
> effects? Did it help reduce overheating during the summer.Barry Pate
> 1967 BJ8
>
> --
> GIF89aHH
Barry,
I had the 5 core done as part of the BN7 resto. Have no hard data to
prove anything about the cooling difference. But it should run cooler,
therefore it does! Self fulfilling prophecy!
I feel the biggest improvement in cooling was the thorough flush of the
block when the engine was out of the car. All freeze plugs were
removed. I got probably a full cup of clay like sludge out of the
block.
Keith Pennell
From "RL Chrysler" <lchrysl at fhs.csu.McMaster.CA>
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 00:08:02 -0400
Subject: Re: New England AHCA Website?
It was written:
> The plan is for the AHCA to seek donations to build a 100 that would be a
> traveling "museum car." Originally a suggestion was made that Coker could
use
> it occasionally but he has since declined the offer.
A very smart fellow to keep clear of such a thing!
>
> The idea is that clubs would donate parts for the car, sponsors would be
> found to help with paint, interior etc. After this car is assembled it
would
> rotate among auto museums and events to help promote the marque.
>
> The Bluegrass club had a member offer a rear end and other parts. Our club
> has offered to rebuild the parts as a club project and donate them to the
> cause. Other clubs have made similar offers.
>
> The project is still in the preliminary stage. Mike Schneider is the AHCA
> chairman and he is reporting strong positive feedback so far. Mike is no
> longer on the list but I have forwarded him several of the comments and I
am
> sure he can provide more info.
I don't want to wet down anyone's powder, but I can just see this thing
now....a car assembled by a committee, using a collection of parts from Lord
knows how many different cars, repaired and restored components to what sort
of exactness or thoroughness...oh yeah; this is really gonna be good!!!
Then everyone can fight over who will supervise this, where the car goes and
for how long....yep, this one will fly for sure!!<grin>
Don't get me wrong, I know there ae folks out there with their hearts in the
right place, but there's just too much against this.
It sure makes for good headlines though, and a good chuckle for a Friday
night.
Rich Chrysler
From Martin Filardi <filardi at uconect.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 06:32:04 -0400
Subject: RE: electrolytic corrosion/BJ8 missfire
I used por-15 a lot on my Healey restoration. The stuff is bullet proof . The
surface should be sanded first, sand blasted or wire wheeled, with as much rust
taken off as possible. It will not stick to smooth surfaces. UV light has an
effect on it so you cannot use it where the son shines on your car. You must
use it outside, the fumes will kill ya.
For those who helped me with my BJ8 missfire, I want to thank you all. The
ignition wires were the main bad guy, but replacing the cap and rotor also
added a lot. After just replacing the wires I got rid of a lot of the missfire,
but there was so much arcing in the cap that replacing the cap and rotor really
made that little difference. I put one after market rotor on, and it did not
fit quite right. The thing cracked immediately. I am now using a Lucas cap and
rotor. Thanks again, Marty
----------
From: Scheuble, Fred J., HiServ/NA
Sent: Friday, June 16, 2000 9:27 AM
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Subject: electrolytic corrosion
Hi All,
has anyone use any products like POR 15 (rust/paint coating) in
areas where the steel and aluminum meet in order to minimize the corrosion
and have had good results.
Thanks,
Fred
From Martin Filardi <filardi at uconect.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 06:58:45 -0400
Subject: RE: surface rust removal block and crank
I would not touch the crank. The machine shop will hot tank the thing, clean it
off, and regrind, and buff it. As far as the block, they will do the same when
they bore and hone the cylinder walls. As far as the outside of the block goes,
you could ask the machine shop about cleaning that. They dip everything in some
acid or something to get rid of all the crud and grime. Mine would not paint
vintage blocks because of all the controversy over color, but did paint all
their 427 blocks black. When you get the block black from the machine shop,
look at the surface real close, and clean in any corners, then paint it that
great Healey green.
----------
From: costan0@attglobal.net
Sent: Friday, June 16, 2000 9:49 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: surface rust removal block and crank
Hey group,
I just bought a replacement block and crank from Bill Bolton and due to its
age, there is surface rust on both. Do you recommend sandblasting, wire
wheel or what to remove the rust. I would be taking the crank to be
reground, and my impression is that they usually clean the crank but does
that include bead blasting or does it depend on the machine shop?
Any advice would be appreciated.
Jerry
From Martin Filardi <filardi at uconect.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 07:06:59 -0400
Subject: Jerry Coker
I would like to know more about Jerry Coker. How old is he? Does he still
drive? What does he drive, if it isn't a Healey. Has anyone at a Healey meet
ever let him take off in their car? I wouldn't. Look what Sterling Moss has
done to other people's cars. Have you ever seen Brian Redman race his Capri in
a vintage race? I would just get out of his way.
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 07:04:38 -0400
Subject: Here I go again. Test Run and Picture for "the old red devil" BN7
Hi gang:
I took the "old red devil" out for a test run last night. Drove to
Morganfield (about 11 miles) where I coach a little league baseball team.
Had the photographer take a picture of the team in and around my car.
About three miles from the house it started misfiring pretty bad, slowed
down to almost a walk in 3rd gear. I was afraid I'd have to abondon it on a
lonely country road and walk to a gas station and call my wife. She finally
coughed, sputtered, and the rpms gradually climbed back up and it sorta
smoothed out. I made the trip to town.
After the pictures and game (we lost 5-4 on a thriller) we headed back home
because rain clouds were ominous. Halfway home it started acting up
again....backfiring, coughing spitting. I live at the top of a hill and it
acted like it had no power when I finally started to climb the hill to the
house.
I got it back in the garage (before the rain started) and now I'm at a loss
as to where to start trying to "fix" the problem.
Any suggestions are welcome.
Don
BN7
(I'll post the picture to my website and put in a link, when it's done.)
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at go.com>
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 05:27:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Dave Ramstad's Healey
Hi all,
I wonder if anyone can tell me the whereabouts of Dave Ramstad's (original
owner) Golden Beige Metallic BJ8? Some of you oldtimers may recall that he
sold it about 1990 to, I believe, a couple named Ducette (spelling?) who were
active in the Austin-Healey Owners Association of British Columbia. Dave tells
me that he heard that it was sold again in the last few years, and he was just
wondering where it is now. Thanks for any leads.
Cheers,
Reid
http://www.healey.org
___________________________________________________
GO Network Mail
Get Your Free, Private E-mail at http://mail.go.com
From Bob McElwee <bobmac at i1.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 07:38:22 -0500
Subject: Re: Jerry Coker
Martin,
If memory serves me correct, Jerry Coker and Roger Menadue were lent a
Austin Healey to drive from Oklahoma City to Grand Lake a few years ago
for a Tri-Healey meet. My impression was they both enjoyed it immensely.
Don't know how old he is/was but didn't hear any comments about him
'racing' the car. I don't know if he ever drove race cars.
Some of my most enjoyable Healey non-driving moments have been listening
to Jerry and Roger talk about the early days with Donald. They are both
are very willing to talk one on one also.
Time flies, just checked my 3rd place 'Other' award they both signed and
it was the '95 Tri-Healey meet.
Bob Mc
62 BT7
From "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos at email.msn.com>
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 07:20:36 -0600
Subject: Re: Radiator core
Yes the bigger radiator will improve your cooling. My old and worn out
engine was running hot with the uprated radiator in it. A friend suggested
putting the old radiator back in beause the air flow would be less
restricted. After a short drive with the old radiator, the engine bearings
melted..................Cheers Henry Morrison
----- Original Message -----
From: Keith R. Pennell <pennell@whro.net>
To: Barry Pate <jbpate@attglobal.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 16, 2000 9:28 PM
Subject: Re: Radiator core
>
> Barry Pate wrote:
> >
> > Has anyone recored the radiator with 5 row rather than 4 row core? Does
> > this change the flow resistance inside the radiator or have any adverse
> > effects? Did it help reduce overheating during the summer.Barry Pate
> > 1967 BJ8
> >
> > --
> > GIF89aHH
>
> Barry,
>
> I had the 5 core done as part of the BN7 resto. Have no hard data to
> prove anything about the cooling difference. But it should run cooler,
> therefore it does! Self fulfilling prophecy!
>
> I feel the biggest improvement in cooling was the thorough flush of the
> block when the engine was out of the car. All freeze plugs were
> removed. I got probably a full cup of clay like sludge out of the
> block.
>
> Keith Pennell
>
From Mark Fawcett <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 08:56:18 -0700
Subject: Re: surface rust removal block and crank
Speaking of engine paint, has anyone used the POR 15 Healey green engine paint?
I saw a paint chip color sample and it didin't look like the right color, but
sometimes those paint chip aren't big enough to tell.
Mark Fawcett
Martin Filardi wrote:
> I would not touch the crank. The machine shop will hot tank the thing, clean
>it off, and regrind, and buff it. As far as the block, they will do the same
>when they bore and hone the cylinder walls. As far as the outside of the block
>goes, you could ask the machine shop about cleaning that. They dip everything
>in some acid or something to get rid of all the crud and grime. Mine would not
>paint vintage blocks because of all the controversy over color, but did paint
>all their 427 blocks black. When you get the block black from the machine
>shop, look at the surface real close, and clean in any corners, then paint it
>that great Healey green.
>
> ----------
> From: costan0@attglobal.net
> Sent: Friday, June 16, 2000 9:49 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: surface rust removal block and crank
>
> Hey group,
>
> I just bought a replacement block and crank from Bill Bolton and due to its
> age, there is surface rust on both. Do you recommend sandblasting, wire
> wheel or what to remove the rust. I would be taking the crank to be
> reground, and my impression is that they usually clean the crank but does
> that include bead blasting or does it depend on the machine shop?
>
> Any advice would be appreciated.
>
> Jerry
From "Donald V. Fregeau Jr. DDS" <ceo at northcoast.com>
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 10:06:35 -0700
Subject: Re: Rain Channel
Just like My BJ7 also.
Don
63 BJ7
>
> You BJ7 sounds exactly like my BJ7. Gray rain channel with separate end
> pieces.
>
> > Mine has, (what looks
> > like),
> > jointed end sections, (approx 4" long) that connect to the overflow
> > tubes.
> > His channel is one piece.
> > I am now a little concerned that mine may not be original and may
> > have been
> > modified by a previous owner as it does not seem very "waterproof".
From hm.heim at t-online.de (Helga+Martin Heim)
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 19:45:35 +0200
Subject: Oil pumps
Hi all,
I would like to ask for your oppinion on oil pumps. I know, there are to
different types. Rotor and gear type.
Which one would you prefer when you think of purchasing a new one. Or are
they not interchangable against each other.
What about high capacity oil pumps offered by different suppliers ?
Curious on your 2 cents or more. ;-))
Martin
Germany
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 14:02:05 EDT
Subject: Cleaning Speedo Face
Hi list,
Just got the tachometer for my 100-Six back from a rebuild and they cleaned
the face (dial) up all nice. Now I need to remove my speedo and clean the
face to match.
Question #1) is how do I get access to the speedo face to clean? What is the
process to get the glass face off so I can clean the dial to match? Question
#2) is what do I use to clean the dial so I don't damage the light gold
color? Gentle solution of mild soap and water?
Thanks for the help.
John
100-Six Erika the Red
From Jhayspu at aol.com
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 14:21:51 EDT
Subject: (no subject)
Anyone know off hand the model fan for the Hayden fan? BT7 Mk. II? TIA
Jerry
From "P.M. Pollock" <pollpete at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 11:58:15 -0700
Subject: Re: surface rust removal block and crank
When my block came back from a very reputable machine shop I gave it a thorough
inspection. A light shown down the main oil galley on the left side (front
plug removed) showed a few particles lying along it, some of which came out on
a magnetic pick-up. So, being obsessive-compulsive, I rigged a pump to run 10W
oil through the block at a fairly high rate (using the front galley opening and
I presume any others I could access- no longer remember). It was a pretty
thorough flush. Then ran the oil through a coffee filter: the yield was about
half a teaspoon of material, about equally divided between magnetic (mostly
machine cuttings) and
mineral (dust and grains of sand, one large enough I'd be tempted to call it a
pebble).
Pete Pollock
BJ7
N. California
Martin Filardi wrote:
> I would not touch the crank. The machine shop will hot tank the thing, clean
>it off, and regrind, and buff it. As far as the block, they will do the same
>when they bore and hone the cylinder walls. As far as the outside of the block
>goes, you could ask the machine shop about cleaning that. They dip everything
>in some acid or something to get rid of all the crud and grime. Mine would not
>paint vintage blocks because of all the controversy over color, but did paint
>all their 427 blocks black. When you get the block black from the machine
>shop, look at the surface real close, and clean in any corners, then paint it
>that great Healey green.
>
> ----------
> From: costan0@attglobal.net
> Sent: Friday, June 16, 2000 9:49 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: surface rust removal block and crank
>
> Hey group,
>
> I just bought a replacement block and crank from Bill Bolton and due to its
> age, there is surface rust on both. Do you recommend sandblasting, wire
> wheel or what to remove the rust. I would be taking the crank to be
> reground, and my impression is that they usually clean the crank but does
> that include bead blasting or does it depend on the machine shop?
>
> Any advice would be appreciated.
>
> Jerry
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 16:12:02 EDT
Subject: Re: Cleaning Speedo Face - Question #3
Keith,
Thanks for the reply. Very helpful, as the Shop Manual does not cover
instruments.
Question #3) is there any part of the speedo mechanism (other that the cable)
that should be lubricated while I have it out? And what type of lubricant?
Thanks.
John
100-Six Erika the Red
From "STEPHEN JOWETT" <enquiries at ukhealey.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 11:49:25 +0100
Subject: Re: Original or not
John
You can get a certificate with build details and numbers from the Heritage
Trust people. You send them the chassis number. The charge is about £25.00
UK.
You can then check all the numbers and the details of the car match up.
The address is :-
BMIHT Archive Dept.
The Motor Centre
Gaydon
Warwickshire
CV35 0BJ
UK. tel. from UK 01926 641188
Cheers.
Steve Jowett UK HEALEY
AUSTIN HEALEY - MG - TRIUMPH - JAGUAR
ASTON MARTIN
web-page:- www.ukhealey.co.uk
From Peter Brauen <pbrauen at telepak.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 00 18:12:09 -0500
Subject: Re: 14" plastic fan
Hey Jerry,
The Hayden number is 3602, or, alternatively, the Car Quest number is
77570. They are identical.---Peter
-----Original Message-----
From: Jhayspu@aol.com <Jhayspu@aol.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Saturday, June 17, 2000 1:38 PM
Subject: (no subject)
Anyone know off hand the model fan for the Hayden fan? BT7 Mk. II? TIA
Jerry
From "Brad Weldon" <brad at bradw.com>
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 16:24:15 -0700
Subject: RE: Jerry Coker
I was going to ask a question about Mr. Coker a couple of weeks ago, but the
thread about giving a car to him started and I didn't want to get caught in
the crossfire!
I recently finished the book "My World of Cars", an autobiography (chapters
1-13) / biography (chapters 14,15). In the book he talks of Gerry Coker
getting involved with the body styling of the hundred in early '52. I know I
didn'y pay too close of attention in school, but I thought I read fairly
carefully this book.
I'm wondering what other makes or models did Gerry Coker design? Was the
Sprite his also? Both Bugeye and square type?
Brad
'55 bn1
status: the shop's getting cleaned out to make room for disassembly.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Martin Filardi
Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2000 04:07 AM
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Subject: Jerry Coker
I would like to know more about Jerry Coker. How old is he? Does he still
drive? What does he drive, if it isn't a Healey. Has anyone at a Healey meet
ever let him take off in their car? I wouldn't. Look what Sterling Moss has
done to other people's cars. Have you ever seen Brian Redman race his Capri
in a vintage race? I would just get out of his way.
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 21:01:22 EDT
Subject: Re: 14" plastic fan
In a message dated 06/17/2000 6:08:27 PM Central Daylight Time,
pbrauen@telepak.net writes:
<< Anyone know off hand the model fan for the Hayden fan? BT7 Mk. II?
TIA >>
Absolutly, Jerry!! It is to be found at:
BEST "contact" is:
North Texas Austin Healey Club.
A Chapter of AHCA
and
an Affiliate of AHCUSA.
Drtrite@aol.com ( Don Lenschow)
or
JWallBN6@aol.com (Jerry Wall).
Cheers...........
Ed
'63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)
Founding Member & Delegate, ILLINI Chapter - AHCA
Member, AHCUSA
Proprietor, " Just Brits "
From Mark Fawcett <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 18:38:12 -0700
Subject: Re: surface rust removal block and crank
Standard procedure when you get a block back from the machine shop is to wash,
wash, and wash again with soap and water. Get some long skinny brushes and
clean out every orifice and then rinse, rinse and rinse with water.
Mark
"P.M. Pollock" wrote:
> When my block came back from a very reputable machine shop I gave it a
>thorough inspection. A light shown down the main oil galley on the left side
>(front plug removed) showed a few particles lying along it, some of which came
>out on a magnetic pick-up. So, being obsessive-compulsive, I rigged a pump to
>run 10W oil through the block at a fairly high rate (using the front galley
>opening and I presume any others I could access- no longer remember). It was a
>pretty thorough flush. Then ran the oil through a coffee filter: the yield
>was about half a teaspoon of material, about equally divided between magnetic
>(mostly machine cuttings) and
> mineral (dust and grains of sand, one large enough I'd be tempted to call it
>a pebble).
>
> Pete Pollock
> BJ7
> N. California
>
> Martin Filardi wrote:
>
> > I would not touch the crank. The machine shop will hot tank the thing,
>clean it off, and regrind, and buff it. As far as the block, they will do the
>same when they bore and hone the cylinder walls. As far as the outside of the
>block goes, you could ask the machine shop about cleaning that. They dip
>everything in some acid or something to get rid of all the crud and grime.
>Mine would not paint vintage blocks because of all the controversy over color,
>but did paint all their 427 blocks black. When you get the block black from
>the machine shop, look at the surface real close, and clean in any corners,
>then paint it that great Healey green.
> >
> > ----------
> > From: costan0@attglobal.net
> > Sent: Friday, June 16, 2000 9:49 PM
> > To: healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: surface rust removal block and crank
> >
> > Hey group,
> >
> > I just bought a replacement block and crank from Bill Bolton and due to its
> > age, there is surface rust on both. Do you recommend sandblasting, wire
> > wheel or what to remove the rust. I would be taking the crank to be
> > reground, and my impression is that they usually clean the crank but does
> > that include bead blasting or does it depend on the machine shop?
> >
> > Any advice would be appreciated.
> >
> > Jerry
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 23:27:18 -0400
Subject: cleaning guage faces
The chrome ring on the guage can sometimes be a real bear to remove. I've
found easiest way is to use a fine miniature flat screwdriver to clean out
what is usually left of the outer rubber O ring . You can then try a rubber
lid opener( most folks have one of these in the kitchen for use on stubborn
glass jar lids ) place guage chrome down on the rubber disk , press and
twist at the same time. It will usually break free.I have sometimes had to
walk away and when my hands were fresh come back for a good oomph and off it
came. What happens here is the gasket between the glass and chrome ring
desindigratesto a hardened tar like substance. The gasket should be renewed
with the rubber capillary tube type. guage to dash is a solid rubber
ring.The outers are redilly avail. I had trouble getting the inners but were
avail. only from Nisonger.
Cleaning,
Use ONLY a mild detergent soap and water for the extremely dirty faces.
Any other cleaning agent can wipe off the old paint.I use a camera cleaning
bellows with a soft hair brush attached to blow off the dust . Be carefull
with the pointer as the white likes to flake off .Glass cleaner for the
glass and no fingerprints please! Install gasket, glass ,chrome ring. I
don't think any of the speedo is required to be lubed. If it is you might be
better off sending it out to be reconditioned if that sit. comes up. One
other point .. the water temp. guage is the most important guage on the
car.Or I should say the one that also will malfunction the easiest. I would
strongly recommend this guage be reconned on any british car with some age
under its belt . Ive seen these get very slow to show a reading and many
degrees off true.
I hope this was informative and not too winded I've learned the hard way ,
glad to pass on some info. most companies I've called about these questions
many years ago wouln't give me the time of day about restoring guages.
Carroll TDR
From Mark Fawcett <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 22:54:53 -0700
Subject: 3.54 differential
Listers,
I'm looking for a good 3.54 differential for my 60 BT7. I'm located in
the So Cal area. I would appreciate any leads.
Mark Fawcett
From BGAHC at aol.com
Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2000 02:43:05 EDT
Subject: Carlise Dates?
Does anyone have the dates for Carlisle in 2001? I'm trying to plan
Springthing for next year and avoid a conflict.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
1957 BN4 Rally Car
1966 BJ8
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2000 21:03:26 +1000
Subject: Re: Here I go again. Test Run and Picture for "the old red devil" BN7
The carb piston could be sticking. Have you checked the carb dashpots have
oil in them ?
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Yarber" <dyarber@dynasty.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, 17 June 2000 21:04
Subject: Here I go again. Test Run and Picture for "the old red devil" BN7
>
> Hi gang:
>
> I took the "old red devil" out for a test run last night. Drove to
> Morganfield (about 11 miles) where I coach a little league baseball team.
> Had the photographer take a picture of the team in and around my car.
>
> About three miles from the house it started misfiring pretty bad, slowed
> down to almost a walk in 3rd gear. I was afraid I'd have to abondon it on
a
> lonely country road and walk to a gas station and call my wife. She
finally
> coughed, sputtered, and the rpms gradually climbed back up and it sorta
> smoothed out. I made the trip to town.
>
> After the pictures and game (we lost 5-4 on a thriller) we headed back
home
> because rain clouds were ominous. Halfway home it started acting up
> again....backfiring, coughing spitting. I live at the top of a hill and
it
> acted like it had no power when I finally started to climb the hill to the
> house.
>
> I got it back in the garage (before the rain started) and now I'm at a
loss
> as to where to start trying to "fix" the problem.
>
> Any suggestions are welcome.
>
> Don
> BN7
> (I'll post the picture to my website and put in a link, when it's done.)
>
>
From "Richard E. Pratt" <prattri at email.msn.com>
Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2000 08:53:21 -0400
Subject: RE: surface rust removal block and crank
List,
Could anyone give me the shaft dia. behind the flywheel flange on a 3000
crank.
TIA
Richard Pratt
65 BJ8
Cincinnati, OH
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Martin Filardi
> Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2000 6:59 AM
> To: 'costan0@attglobal.net'; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: surface rust removal block and crank
>
>
>
> I would not touch the crank. The machine shop will hot tank the
> thing, clean it off, and regrind, and buff it. As far as the
> block, they will do the same when they bore and hone the cylinder
> walls. As far as the outside of the block goes, you could ask the
> machine shop about cleaning that. They dip everything in some
> acid or something to get rid of all the crud and grime. Mine
> would not paint vintage blocks because of all the controversy
> over color, but did paint all their 427 blocks black. When you
> get the block black from the machine shop, look at the surface
> real close, and clean in any corners, then paint it that great
> Healey green.
>
> ----------
> From: costan0@attglobal.net
> Sent: Friday, June 16, 2000 9:49 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: surface rust removal block and crank
>
>
> Hey group,
>
> I just bought a replacement block and crank from Bill Bolton and
> due to its
> age, there is surface rust on both. Do you recommend sandblasting, wire
> wheel or what to remove the rust. I would be taking the crank to be
> reground, and my impression is that they usually clean the crank but does
> that include bead blasting or does it depend on the machine shop?
>
> Any advice would be appreciated.
>
> Jerry
>
>
>
>
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2000 13:34:00 EDT
Subject: Smitty's 5 speed question
Listers,
Anybody convert their rear shift tower to a front shift tower while doing the
conversion? Please contact me off-list.
TIA
Rick
From "David Brown" <david at cablelogic.com.au>
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 08:05:27 +0800
Subject: Knock-offs
Hi all,
I have had an interest in healey's for the past five years, read a lot of
literature and bought a lot of books and recently about 2 months ago I
purchased a 3000 60 BT7. (here in Oz).
This is the first question I have asked of the list so go easy on me and to
some this may be a stupid question but having read the info re; reversing
the splines my query is -
which side is "near side" and which side is "off side".
My car was original LHD delivered to the US then imported to Oz(around the
mid 80's) and converted to RHD. So what side is what?
TIA
Dave Brown
1960 3000 BT7
Perth
Western Australia
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of William H. Wood
Sent: Thursday, 15 June 2000 9:51 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Knock-offs
Don't reverse the sides of the splines, near-side, off-side, which is easy
to do.
healeybill
From "Ron Schonscheck" <schonny at y2consult.com>
Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2000 19:16:19 -0600
Subject: Re: Knock-offs
When you are setting in the car the left side is on your left and if this is
where the steering wheel is then it is left hand drive or LHD for short. Of
course if it is on the right it is RHD or right hand drive. Good luck
----- Original Message -----
From: David Brown <david@cablelogic.com.au>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, June 18, 2000 6:05 PM
Subject: Knock-offs
>
>
> Hi all,
> I have had an interest in healey's for the past five years, read a lot of
> literature and bought a lot of books and recently about 2 months ago I
> purchased a 3000 60 BT7. (here in Oz).
>
> This is the first question I have asked of the list so go easy on me and
to
> some this may be a stupid question but having read the info re; reversing
> the splines my query is -
> which side is "near side" and which side is "off side".
> My car was original LHD delivered to the US then imported to Oz(around the
> mid 80's) and converted to RHD. So what side is what?
>
> TIA
>
> Dave Brown
> 1960 3000 BT7
> Perth
> Western Australia
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of William H. Wood
> Sent: Thursday, 15 June 2000 9:51 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Knock-offs
>
>
>
> Don't reverse the sides of the splines, near-side, off-side, which is easy
> to do.
>
> healeybill
>
>
From "Bob Yule" <autofarm at gate-way.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2000 22:33:24 -0400
Subject: Re: Knock-offs
>From experience and observation," near side" is the left side of the car,
and "off side" is the right side. Coming from England, being" near" to the
curbside, and "off" away from the curb. This terminoligy stuck ,even to
cars with left hand steering. Hope this helps, cheers......Bob.
From: David Brown <david@cablelogic.com.au>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, June 18, 2000 8:05 PM
Subject: Knock-offs
>
>
> Hi all,
> I have had an interest in healey's for the past five years, read a lot of
> literature and bought a lot of books and recently about 2 months ago I
> purchased a 3000 60 BT7. (here in Oz).
>
> This is the first question I have asked of the list so go easy on me and
to
> some this may be a stupid question but having read the info re; reversing
> the splines my query is -
> which side is "near side" and which side is "off side".
> My car was original LHD delivered to the US then imported to Oz(around the
> mid 80's) and converted to RHD. So what side is what?
>
> TIA
>
> Dave Brown
> 1960 3000 BT7
> Perth
> Western Australia
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of William H. Wood
> Sent: Thursday, 15 June 2000 9:51 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Knock-offs
>
>
>
> Don't reverse the sides of the splines, near-side, off-side, which is easy
> to do.
>
> healeybill
>
>
From PHILIP HALL <CAROLHALL at prodigy.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2000 10:30:35 -0400
Subject: Oil additives
Guy's;
I hate to raise this subject but......
Has anyone tried some of these so called high tech oil additives eg;
Prolong, Z max etc.?
I have never tried any of this stuff and have always thought their
claims were a buch of bull. A friend has put some of the Zmax in his MG
and he swears that it runs smother and quieter.
Has anyone else tried this stuff? Your thoughts???
Phil
From Bobby Godwin <bogodwin at surfsouth.com>
Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2000 22:33:00 -0700
Subject: Non Healey (trip computer)
Hey Listers,
This is non healey, but we have some smart guys on the list and I'm
hoping that someone can help me with this problem. If you can, email me
off list so we won't be bothering the other folks on the list.
I have a 1986 Ford Aerostar mini van that I just had a rebuilt
engine put in. It has a trip computer that has worked fine up until the
new engine was installed. Now, the thing seems to stop reading the
distance traveled and gives me an inaccurate distance. While this is
happening, the instant mileage goes to "0" and this throws off my gas
mileage and distance till empty. Since this started with the rebuilt
engine, I feel like it had something to do with the installation. There
seems to be a loose connection where ever it gets the mileage reading
from. There seems to be no one in town that knows about trip computers
and I haven't been able to find anything on the web that has been
helpful.
If any of you have any ideas any help will be appreciated.
Thanks,
Bobby Godwin, Valdosta, Ga.
From XanaduWarrior at aol.com
Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2000 23:48:55 EDT
Subject: boats?
Hi guys, sorry this isn't a car question, but I'm looking for any info on
Healey boats. Anyone know of any for sale, any condition, any location?
Please reply to me direct to keep the list clear. Thanks!
Butch
Knoxville, TN
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 00:24:34 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: It's a leaner...
DON'T start foollng with the shims.
Disc wheels are NOT inherently unbalanced or out-of-round. It should, in any
event, be a simple matter to take all four wheels and tires to your local Tire
Guy and find out in a hurry if there is some problem with either the wheels or
the tires, be it balance or sidewall bubbles or the like.
I've forgotten if this is a Healey or a Triumph but I don't think either have
adjustable Camber - just toe-in (1/8" In)
DickB
---- you wrote:
> Greetings,
>
> Yes...again. I'm getting much closer to resolving this "shimmying & sloppy
> steering" bugaboo. Unfortunately, we're not there yet.
>
> Since the last time I queried this great list, I've tightened up the
> steering box (via the adjustment screw on top of the steering box. I have
> NOT yet played around with the shim setup...) and the steering has improved
> immensely...nowhere near the amount of slop I had before.
>
> But...the damn thing still has a shimmy - only occurs around 60mhp. please
> recall; I've rebuilt the ENTIRE front end. During the initial rebuild, I
> left the steering box alone, which alot of you told me I shouldn't have
> done (and I sorta thought that before)...so, I went back in there and
> performed this first adjustment. The good news is that it does not appear
> that this steering box is the problem. The box looks like its' in pretty
> good shape; no wear on the adjustment screw anyway and plenty of oil in it.
>
> Anyway, Now, I'm thinking the wheel and tire setup might be at fault. I've
> recommended to the owner that he look into some top quality tires like
> Michelins, (or whatever else was std equipment on these things). right now
> he has some cheap tires on it, and the steel wheels were always suspect. I
> understand that the PO drove this car hard, and off the highway, through
> the mojave desert, where I live.
>
> But...aside from the wheel/tire factor, I have noticed something else just
> looking at the car tonight...
>
> This thing LEANS...to the left (pass side). Not much, but its' there.
>
> My questions are:
> 1. bad spring? and would this contribute to shimmy'ing? I did NOT replace
> the springs on this job.
> 2. I put oem front shocks back on it...should I have gone with Konis?
> again, are these shocks junk? and would contribute to this problem?
> 3. or, are these cars THAT squirrely to begin with? (I would find that
> hard to believe...)
> I set the front-end toe, camber, according to the numbers in the manual
> (I'm using the Bentley repro of the factory pub.).
> 4. Are these numbers correct?
> 5. are some other tricks to getting this geometry right?
> 6. Is there a quick way to determine if the frame itself is tweaked up?
>
> Any comments?
> please help...we're getting closer to getting this thing resolved and this
> list has been a huge help. Please remember-we have STEEL wheels on it, not
> wires.
>
> Again, the car's owner and I thank you in advance...
>
> Cheers
> Thom Kuby
> Porsche freak, with a TR3 in his garage
>
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From "Joseph Giuliano" <joe.giuliano at giuliano.com>
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 16:24:30 -0400
Subject: Help on getting my car finished up.
To all,
My BJ8 is close to being complete (whatever that means). While it is not
perfect there are a few nagging factors that I'd like to handle. This car
was bought new by my father in 67 and means a lot to my family. With the
help of Phil Babcock in Fort Meyers it is looking really good. I opted for
not replacing those parts that were original except where they were missing
or really bad.
Here are my issues. Late model BJ8.
1) Can anyone tell me what the hole is for just to the side of the rear
brake lights.
Here is the picture:
http://joe.giuliano.home.mindspring.com/unkhole.jpg
2) I am told that the only way to get new kickpanels for the interior is to
buy the door panels too. Is this true? If not where do I get good quality
ones? I want to keep the door panels as they will clean up OK. Another
shot of what I need.
http://joe.giuliano.home.mindspring.com/kickpanel.jpg
3) The drip rail for the top is missing. A new one at Moss is ~$500. Does
anyone know where I can get a replacement? In case I am not being clear
here is another picture (don't you just love digital cameras)?
http://joe.giuliano.home.mindspring.com/driprail.jpg
4) Does anyone know where I can get an original radio? If not what is a
good AM/FM model to replace it with in the existing space so it looks OK?
5) The dash padding is now black. In my foggy memory I recall it as being
blue like the top was. Am I getting senile? Black or blue?
Thanks.
Joe Giuliano
p.s., I have not posted the pictures I took today yet but here are some
previous ones.
http://joe.giuliano.home.mindspring.com/default.htm
p.p.s., to Steve Byers. In a couple of weeks I'll get what you need for the
registry.
From "Colin O'Brien" <cob at atg.com.au>
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 15:02:07 +1000
Subject: Re: It's a leaner...
I had exactly this problem.
I reconditioned the shocks, checked the idler, all the ball joints, the king
pins, checked the wheel balance (twice!) and put on new tyres as I thought
maybe the old ones had got hard and had flat spots through long storage.
The problem turned out to be a worn steering drop arm bush. It was only
possible to see with difficulty if a friend swivelled the steering wheel
while I laid under the car and watched the steering box arm carefully.
I had the steering box reconditioned and "bingo" perfectly smooth driving.
Best regards,
Colin O'Brien
BJ8 ph1
Sydney Oz
--
> From: dickb@cheerful.com
> Reply-To: dickb@cheerful.com
> Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 00:24:34 -0400 (EDT)
> To: thom kuby <thomkuby@iwvisp.com>, austin healey list
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: It's a leaner...
>
>
> DON'T start foollng with the shims.
>
> Disc wheels are NOT inherently unbalanced or out-of-round. It should, in any
> event, be a simple matter to take all four wheels and tires to your local Tire
> Guy and find out in a hurry if there is some problem with either the wheels or
> the tires, be it balance or sidewall bubbles or the like.
>
> I've forgotten if this is a Healey or a Triumph but I don't think either have
> adjustable Camber - just toe-in (1/8" In)
>
> DickB
>
> ---- you wrote:
>> Greetings,
>>
>> Yes...again. I'm getting much closer to resolving this "shimmying & sloppy
>> steering" bugaboo. Unfortunately, we're not there yet.
>>
>> Since the last time I queried this great list, I've tightened up the
>> steering box (via the adjustment screw on top of the steering box. I have
>> NOT yet played around with the shim setup...) and the steering has improved
>> immensely...nowhere near the amount of slop I had before.
>>
>> But...the damn thing still has a shimmy - only occurs around 60mhp. please
>> recall; I've rebuilt the ENTIRE front end. During the initial rebuild, I
>> left the steering box alone, which alot of you told me I shouldn't have
>> done (and I sorta thought that before)...so, I went back in there and
>> performed this first adjustment. The good news is that it does not appear
>> that this steering box is the problem. The box looks like its' in pretty
>> good shape; no wear on the adjustment screw anyway and plenty of oil in it.
>>
>> Anyway, Now, I'm thinking the wheel and tire setup might be at fault. I've
>> recommended to the owner that he look into some top quality tires like
>> Michelins, (or whatever else was std equipment on these things). right now
>> he has some cheap tires on it, and the steel wheels were always suspect. I
>> understand that the PO drove this car hard, and off the highway, through
>> the mojave desert, where I live.
>>
>> But...aside from the wheel/tire factor, I have noticed something else just
>> looking at the car tonight...
>>
>> This thing LEANS...to the left (pass side). Not much, but its' there.
>>
>> My questions are:
>> 1. bad spring? and would this contribute to shimmy'ing? I did NOT replace
>> the springs on this job.
>> 2. I put oem front shocks back on it...should I have gone with Konis?
>> again, are these shocks junk? and would contribute to this problem?
>> 3. or, are these cars THAT squirrely to begin with? (I would find that
>> hard to believe...)
>> I set the front-end toe, camber, according to the numbers in the manual
>> (I'm using the Bentley repro of the factory pub.).
>> 4. Are these numbers correct?
>> 5. are some other tricks to getting this geometry right?
>> 6. Is there a quick way to determine if the frame itself is tweaked up?
>>
>> Any comments?
>> please help...we're getting closer to getting this thing resolved and this
>> list has been a huge help. Please remember-we have STEEL wheels on it, not
>> wires.
>>
>> Again, the car's owner and I thank you in advance...
>>
>> Cheers
>> Thom Kuby
>> Porsche freak, with a TR3 in his garage
>>
>>
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
>
From Martin Filardi <filardi at uconect.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 06:26:37 -0400
Subject: Jay Satts/ Motor Sports
Has anyone on the list had any work done by this shop in Westport CT.? I am
thinking of having him do some steering box work on my 3000. He races a Bugeye
from what I understand. Thanks, Marty
From "Scheuble, Fred J., HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 08:59:03 -0400
Subject: RE: surface rust removal block and crank
I have not used the healey green but I do have experience with their engine
paint, due to the solid content it is very thick and difficult to get a
smooth finish, as to the color it is slightly off. However this being said
these paints are very durable
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Fawcett [mailto:fawcett1@mediaone.net]
Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2000 11:56 AM
To: Martin Filardi
Cc: 'costan0@attglobal.net'; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: surface rust removal block and crank
Speaking of engine paint, has anyone used the POR 15 Healey green engine
paint? I saw a paint chip color sample and it didin't look like the right
color, but sometimes those paint chip aren't big enough to tell.
Mark Fawcett
Martin Filardi wrote:
> I would not touch the crank. The machine shop will hot tank the thing,
clean it off, and regrind, and buff it. As far as the block, they will do
the same when they bore and hone the cylinder walls. As far as the outside
of the block goes, you could ask the machine shop about cleaning that. They
dip everything in some acid or something to get rid of all the crud and
grime. Mine would not paint vintage blocks because of all the controversy
over color, but did paint all their 427 blocks black. When you get the block
black from the machine shop, look at the surface real close, and clean in
any corners, then paint it that great Healey green.
>
> ----------
> From: costan0@attglobal.net
> Sent: Friday, June 16, 2000 9:49 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: surface rust removal block and crank
>
> Hey group,
>
> I just bought a replacement block and crank from Bill Bolton and due to
its
> age, there is surface rust on both. Do you recommend sandblasting, wire
> wheel or what to remove the rust. I would be taking the crank to be
> reground, and my impression is that they usually clean the crank but does
> that include bead blasting or does it depend on the machine shop?
>
> Any advice would be appreciated.
>
> Jerry
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 09:05:34 -0400
Subject: Re: Oil additives
PHILIP HALL wrote:
> Guy's;
>
> I hate to raise this subject but......
>
> Has anyone tried some of these so called high tech oil additives eg;
> Prolong, Z max etc.?
>
> I have never tried any of this stuff and have always thought their
> claims were a buch of bull. A friend has put some of the Zmax in his MG
> and he swears that it runs smother and quieter.
>
> Has anyone else tried this stuff? Your thoughts???
>
> Phil
Try http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-additives.html
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From "James Sailer" <sailer at srv.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 07:38:55 -0600
Subject: Order of Gaskets on BJ8 Intake
Sorry for the rehash as I know this has gone around. I took photos of the
disassembly of my BJ8 engine as I went and I had the following:
intake - metalic gasket - spacing block - metalic gasket - heat shield -
paper gasket - carb
My gasket set however does not include 4 metalic gaskets though so I am
assuming that it goes as follows:
intake - spacing block - metalic gasket - heat shield - paper gasket - carb
Appreciate the proper setup information.
Thanks all,
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8 - Going back together)
From "S.HUTCHINGS" <hutching at myna.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 10:04:33 -0400
Subject: Head Gaskets
Hi all; is the current procedure for replacing head gaskets to install them
dry, or have people started using any additional sealants etc. .....I
haven't done this for a long time!
Stephen BJ8
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 10:18:37 EDT
Subject: Re: Oil additives
In a message dated 6/19/00 9:15:14 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
magicare@home.com writes:
<< Try http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-additives.html
Regards,
Mike Salter >>
Mike:
Personally, I prefer the additives with zinc--they also ward off colds if
taken in sufficient concentration....
BTW--I figured out why the Healey mags are not concerned with such trivial
information that our Triumph cousins take seriously--we sling the additive
solids out the crank's Archimides screw.
Thanks for the great article--Michael
From "Ron Schonscheck" <schonny at y2consult.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 08:44:30 -0600
Subject: Re: Head Gaskets
Dry, all services very clean and tighten down evenly to proper torque
values.
----- Original Message -----
From: S.HUTCHINGS <hutching@myna.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2000 8:04 AM
Subject: Head Gaskets
>
> Hi all; is the current procedure for replacing head gaskets to install
them
> dry, or have people started using any additional sealants etc. .....I
> haven't done this for a long time!
> Stephen BJ8
>
>
>
From Jimmysmth at aol.com
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 10:44:05 EDT
Subject: Re: Head Gaskets
Stephen: I use "Permatex Super 300" on the 100-4 race engine. It even
stops the annoying coolant seepage between 2 and 3, near the number plate.
Jim
From Martin Johnson <MJohnson at cfworks.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 08:00:50 -0700
Subject: RE: surface rust removal block and crank
I learned my lesson on cleaning a block just back from the shop the hard
way. It was a good thing that it wasn't on a LBC. It was on a Ford
302. I figured the shop would have cleaned up after themselves. If I
was in their shoes that's what I would do. I thought that was what you
paid for- a block that's ready to be built up. Anyway, enough "matter"
was pumped through my new rebuild that I had to replace the main
bearings to get the right oil pressure. The "matter" was fimly embedded
in the bearings, but fortunately didn't scratch the journals on the
crank. Experience is what you get right after you need it. Now I use
long engine brushes, kerosene and air pressure. I like the concept of
the oil method. Any other ways to do it?
Martin Johnson
-----Original Message-----
From: P.M. Pollock [mailto:pollpete@ix.netcom.com]
Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2000 11:58 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: surface rust removal block and crank
When my block came back from a very reputable machine shop I gave it a
thorough inspection. A light shown down the main oil galley on the left
side (front plug removed) showed a few particles lying along it, some of
which came out on a magnetic pick-up. So, being obsessive-compulsive, I
rigged a pump to run 10W oil through the block at a fairly high rate
(using the front galley opening and I presume any others I could access-
no longer remember). It was a pretty thorough flush. Then ran the oil
through a coffee filter: the yield was about half a teaspoon of
material, about equally divided between magnetic (mostly machine
cuttings) and
mineral (dust and grains of sand, one large enough I'd be tempted to
call it a pebble).
Pete Pollock
BJ7
N. California
Martin Filardi wrote:
> I would not touch the crank. The machine shop will hot tank the thing,
clean it off, and regrind, and buff it. As far as the block, they will
do the same when they bore and hone the cylinder walls. As far as the
outside of the block goes, you could ask the machine shop about cleaning
that. They dip everything in some acid or something to get rid of all
the crud and grime. Mine would not paint vintage blocks because of all
the controversy over color, but did paint all their 427 blocks black.
When you get the block black from the machine shop, look at the surface
real close, and clean in any corners, then paint it that great Healey
green.
>
> ----------
> From: costan0@attglobal.net
> Sent: Friday, June 16, 2000 9:49 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: surface rust removal block and crank
>
> Hey group,
>
> I just bought a replacement block and crank from Bill Bolton and due
to its
> age, there is surface rust on both. Do you recommend sandblasting,
wire
> wheel or what to remove the rust. I would be taking the crank to be
> reground, and my impression is that they usually clean the crank but
does
> that include bead blasting or does it depend on the machine shop?
>
> Any advice would be appreciated.
>
> Jerry
From LarryRPH at aol.com
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 11:23:45 EDT
Subject: Re: Oil additives
Phil,
I swear by one of the oldest additives on the market-Marvel Mystery OIL. I
add it to the crankcase and 4ozs to each gas fill. I used to get carburetor
dirt and fouling plugs fairly often. The problem has stopped since I started
using it regularly.I beleive that it is easier starting in cold weather and
lubricates the valves .
Larry Wysocki
From "Scheuble, Fred J., HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 12:07:28 -0400
Subject: RE: Oil additives
I just had my engine rebuilt by a racing shop that was recommended by
employees of Moss motor here in NJ and by a number of healey clubs, the
recommendation is the same as Larry's below, otherwise they will not
warranty the motor...
-----Original Message-----
From: LarryRPH@aol.com [mailto:LarryRPH@aol.com]
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2000 11:24 AM
To: CAROLHALL@prodigy.net
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Oil additives
Phil,
I swear by one of the oldest additives on the market-Marvel Mystery OIL. I
add it to the crankcase and 4ozs to each gas fill. I used to get
carburetor
dirt and fouling plugs fairly often. The problem has stopped since I
started
using it regularly.I beleive that it is easier starting in cold weather and
lubricates the valves .
Larry Wysocki
From "Simon Sabel" <simon.sabel at flinthouse.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 16:46:08 +0100
Subject: Re: surface rust removal block and crank
When I was racing Mini's there were brass plugs that we drilled out after
any block work, these gave straight access to the oil galleries: once
cleaned we bashed in a new set of brass plugs - is there anything similar on
a Healey block?
Regards
Simon
From "Simon Sabel" <simon.sabel at flinthouse.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 17:13:18 +0100
Subject: 4000 GT - Firrere
I always thought the Healey 4000 was only made as an open 2+2 and yet I have
found reference and a bad picture of a GT version with badges that call it
the 'Firrere' - does this exist ? what does the Firrere badge mean ?
Regards
Simon
BN4 Longbridge
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 11:24:00 -0500
Subject: RE: Head Gaskets
Hi,
I used Permatex Copper Head Gasket Sealant. Besides the obvious function
of sealing, I think it also allows better flow of the copper as it gets
squished down by the head being torqued.
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: S.HUTCHINGS [mailto:hutching@myna.com]
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2000 7:05 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Head Gaskets
Hi all; is the current procedure for replacing head gaskets to install them
dry, or have people started using any additional sealants etc. .....I
haven't done this for a long time!
Stephen BJ8
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 11:27:35 -0500
Subject: RE: Order of Gaskets on BJ8 Intake
Jim,
The gaskets I received were not metallic like the ones I took off the car.
However, they did seem to be made of some kind of fibrous, high-temp
material so I think they will work fine. BTW, I did purchase the gaskets
separately.
Therefore, as you have, manifold/hi-temp gasket/spacer/high-temp gasket/heat
shield/paper gasket/carb.
Regards,
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: James Sailer [mailto:sailer@srv.net]
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2000 6:39 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: Order of Gaskets on BJ8 Intake
Sorry for the rehash as I know this has gone around. I took photos of the
disassembly of my BJ8 engine as I went and I had the following:
intake - metalic gasket - spacing block - metalic gasket - heat shield -
paper gasket - carb
My gasket set however does not include 4 metalic gaskets though so I am
assuming that it goes as follows:
intake - spacing block - metalic gasket - heat shield - paper gasket - carb
Appreciate the proper setup information.
Thanks all,
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8 - Going back together)
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 11:29:28 -0500
Subject: RE: surface rust removal block and crank
Hi,
Yes, the block has brass plugs that get trapped by the front and rear
plates. I think there is a small one for the timing chain feeder that gets
sealed by the sump. I could not find replacements; perhaps someone has a
source?
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: Simon Sabel [mailto:simon.sabel@flinthouse.com]
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2000 8:46 AM
To: Martin Johnson; 'P.M. Pollock'; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: surface rust removal block and crank
When I was racing Mini's there were brass plugs that we drilled out after
any block work, these gave straight access to the oil galleries: once
cleaned we bashed in a new set of brass plugs - is there anything similar on
a Healey block?
Regards
Simon
From Ian Nelson <ian at Remedy.COM>
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 09:33:48 -0700
Subject: Overheating / Buyer Beware / Palo Alto Concours
First, thanks to all of the list members who gave me advice regarding my
overheating problem.
The suggestions were:
1. Use a six bladed fan
2. Check the thermostat
3. Add Red Line Water Wetter
4. Add electrical fan
5. Check cooling system for corrosion
One quick buyer beware note. Before I received the advice above I rushed out
and bought an electrical fan from Moss. The total cost was $140.00. The fan
kit came with the fan assembly and a thermostat. The next day I was in PEP
Boys (Auto store) and saw the exact same fan for $69. Granted, the fan in
the
store did not have the thermostat portion. But I bet the cost of the
thermostat alone would not make up the difference.
Now on to my latest problem.
I just experienced a rather curious problem in my 100-6. I was sitting at a
light when the car quit. Not a stumbling, coughing type of quitting. It was
as if someone had thrown an "Off" switch on the car. One-second it was
running, the next it wasn't. Turning the key and pushing the starter button
provided no reponse.
I pushed the car to the side of the road and started checking the electrical
connections. All of the wire connections appeared tight. Finally the car
started and I was able to drive home. It is a bit worrying, thinking that at
any moment (At speed?) the car might cut out like that. I would like to
avoid
that at all costs.
Just out of curiosity, is anyone on the list entering their car in the Palo
Alto Concours?
Thanks,
Ian Nelson
100-6
From "Ledwith, Ryan S" <ryan.s.ledwith at ssmb.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 12:56:40 -0400
Subject: RE: Overheating / Buyer Beware / Palo Alto Concours
don't know if you figured out your problem, but my 2cents would say you have
a bad ground. Start at the battery and work forward, making sure all ground
contacts are clean. For everything to go bad at once, your ground is your
best bet.
As for worrying about it dying at any moment, I think that is just something
you get used to. :)
Ryan
64 Bj7
-----Original Message-----
From: Ian Nelson [mailto:ian@Remedy.COM]
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2000 12:34 PM
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Subject: Overheating / Buyer Beware / Palo Alto Concours
First, thanks to all of the list members who gave me advice regarding my
overheating problem.
The suggestions were:
1. Use a six bladed fan
2. Check the thermostat
3. Add Red Line Water Wetter
4. Add electrical fan
5. Check cooling system for corrosion
One quick buyer beware note. Before I received the advice above I rushed out
and bought an electrical fan from Moss. The total cost was $140.00. The fan
kit came with the fan assembly and a thermostat. The next day I was in PEP
Boys (Auto store) and saw the exact same fan for $69. Granted, the fan in
the
store did not have the thermostat portion. But I bet the cost of the
thermostat alone would not make up the difference.
Now on to my latest problem.
I just experienced a rather curious problem in my 100-6. I was sitting at a
light when the car quit. Not a stumbling, coughing type of quitting. It was
as if someone had thrown an "Off" switch on the car. One-second it was
running, the next it wasn't. Turning the key and pushing the starter button
provided no reponse.
I pushed the car to the side of the road and started checking the electrical
connections. All of the wire connections appeared tight. Finally the car
started and I was able to drive home. It is a bit worrying, thinking that at
any moment (At speed?) the car might cut out like that. I would like to
avoid
that at all costs.
Just out of curiosity, is anyone on the list entering their car in the Palo
Alto Concours?
Thanks,
Ian Nelson
100-6
From "Scheuble, Fred J., HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 13:41:01 -0400
Subject: RE: Overheating / Buyer Beware / Palo Alto Concours
amen
-----Original Message-----
From: Ledwith, Ryan S [mailto:ryan.s.ledwith@ssmb.com]
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2000 12:57 PM
To: 'healeys'
Subject: RE: Overheating / Buyer Beware / Palo Alto Concours
don't know if you figured out your problem, but my 2cents would say you have
a bad ground. Start at the battery and work forward, making sure all ground
contacts are clean. For everything to go bad at once, your ground is your
best bet.
As for worrying about it dying at any moment, I think that is just something
you get used to. :)
Ryan
64 Bj7
-----Original Message-----
From: Ian Nelson [mailto:ian@Remedy.COM]
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2000 12:34 PM
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Subject: Overheating / Buyer Beware / Palo Alto Concours
First, thanks to all of the list members who gave me advice regarding my
overheating problem.
The suggestions were:
1. Use a six bladed fan
2. Check the thermostat
3. Add Red Line Water Wetter
4. Add electrical fan
5. Check cooling system for corrosion
One quick buyer beware note. Before I received the advice above I rushed out
and bought an electrical fan from Moss. The total cost was $140.00. The fan
kit came with the fan assembly and a thermostat. The next day I was in PEP
Boys (Auto store) and saw the exact same fan for $69. Granted, the fan in
the
store did not have the thermostat portion. But I bet the cost of the
thermostat alone would not make up the difference.
Now on to my latest problem.
I just experienced a rather curious problem in my 100-6. I was sitting at a
light when the car quit. Not a stumbling, coughing type of quitting. It was
as if someone had thrown an "Off" switch on the car. One-second it was
running, the next it wasn't. Turning the key and pushing the starter button
provided no reponse.
I pushed the car to the side of the road and started checking the electrical
connections. All of the wire connections appeared tight. Finally the car
started and I was able to drive home. It is a bit worrying, thinking that at
any moment (At speed?) the car might cut out like that. I would like to
avoid
that at all costs.
Just out of curiosity, is anyone on the list entering their car in the Palo
Alto Concours?
Thanks,
Ian Nelson
100-6
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 10:50:24 -0700
Subject: Re: Overheating / Buyer Beware / Palo Alto Concours
"It is a bit worrying, thinking that at any moment (At speed?) the car might
cut out like that" I suppose the only saving grace is that there isn't
power brakes or power steering to contend with when it stops running....Neil
;-)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ian Nelson" <ian@Remedy.COM>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2000 9:33 AM
Subject: Overheating / Buyer Beware / Palo Alto Concours
>
>
> First, thanks to all of the list members who gave me advice regarding my
> overheating problem.
>
> The suggestions were:
> 1. Use a six bladed fan
> 2. Check the thermostat
> 3. Add Red Line Water Wetter
> 4. Add electrical fan
> 5. Check cooling system for corrosion
>
> One quick buyer beware note. Before I received the advice above I rushed
out
>
> and bought an electrical fan from Moss. The total cost was $140.00. The
fan
> kit came with the fan assembly and a thermostat. The next day I was in PEP
> Boys (Auto store) and saw the exact same fan for $69. Granted, the fan in
> the
> store did not have the thermostat portion. But I bet the cost of the
> thermostat alone would not make up the difference.
>
> Now on to my latest problem.
>
> I just experienced a rather curious problem in my 100-6. I was sitting at
a
> light when the car quit. Not a stumbling, coughing type of quitting. It
was
> as if someone had thrown an "Off" switch on the car. One-second it was
> running, the next it wasn't. Turning the key and pushing the starter
button
> provided no reponse.
>
> I pushed the car to the side of the road and started checking the
electrical
>
> connections. All of the wire connections appeared tight. Finally the car
> started and I was able to drive home. It is a bit worrying, thinking that
at
>
> any moment (At speed?) the car might cut out like that. I would like to
> avoid
> that at all costs.
>
>
> Just out of curiosity, is anyone on the list entering their car in the
Palo
> Alto Concours?
>
>
> Thanks,
> Ian Nelson
> 100-6
>
From "P.M. Pollock" <pollpete at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 13:07:40 -0700
Subject: Re: Overheating / Buyer Beware / Palo Alto Concours
Same thing happened to me when my car was about 6 years old: he'd just quit.
No sputters, etc.- just as though I'd turned the key. And no apparent pattern
to when it would occur. Drove me nuts for months. Over and over I checked and
had checked all the electricals including the battery terminals and trunk
switch. Then one service time while topping up the electrolyte in the
nearly-new battery, I noticed a hairline crack in the battery case radiating out
from the positive post. You could hardly see it. Closer inspection showed such
cracks radiating outward from all the circumference of the post- but not from
the negative post.
About three months before the cutting out started I'd been sharply rear-ended by
a pretty (hence unticketed) drunk. The body shop did a fine repair and nobody
paid any attention to the battery as it looked and worked fine. But the impact
must have weakened the lower support of the post so it gradually was breaking
itself loose. New battery solved the problem. You might think there should
have been a pattern to the cut-outs- bumps, rough roads, etc.- but not such that
I noticed, and I spent months looking hard. It may have simply been a matter of
how much the battery warmed (expanding parts).
Pete Pollock
BJ7
N. California
Ian Nelson wrote:
> I just experienced a rather curious problem in my 100-6. I was sitting at a
> light when the car quit. Not a stumbling, coughing type of quitting. It was
> as if someone had thrown an "Off" switch on the car. One-second it was
> running, the next it wasn't. Turning the key and pushing the starter button
> provided no reponse.
>
> I pushed the car to the side of the road and started checking the electrical
>
> connections. All of the wire connections appeared tight. Finally the car
> started and I was able to drive home. It is a bit worrying, thinking that at
>
> any moment (At speed?) the car might cut out like that. I would like to
> avoid
> that at all costs.
From Todd S Taylor <todd.s.taylor at lmco.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 17:01:49 -0400
Subject: Re: Overheating / Buyer Beware / Palo Alto Concours
Go buy a new battery , it will eliminate one item in the trouble shoot. When
you
get strange things happening like that it's most likely the
battery. It's not worth messing around with. I've had things happen where the
car
will not start, 5 minutes later the car starts and runs fine
for 3 days .. then it won't start again. Also I've had a car slowly die while
I was driving it. It was the battery both times .. replaced it and never had
a problem again. I replace batterys now every 4 years if they need it or not...
For the price it's not worth messing with. Todd.....
1959 100-6
1980 MGB limited
1996 Audi A4...
"P.M. Pollock" wrote:
> Same thing happened to me when my car was about 6 years old: he'd just quit.
> No sputters, etc.- just as though I'd turned the key. And no apparent pattern
> to when it would occur. Drove me nuts for months. Over and over I checked
>and
> had checked all the electricals including the battery terminals and trunk
> switch. Then one service time while topping up the electrolyte in the
> nearly-new battery, I noticed a hairline crack in the battery case radiating
>out
> from the positive post. You could hardly see it. Closer inspection showed
>such
> cracks radiating outward from all the circumference of the post- but not from
> the negative post.
>
> About three months before the cutting out started I'd been sharply rear-ended
>by
> a pretty (hence unticketed) drunk. The body shop did a fine repair and nobody
> paid any attention to the battery as it looked and worked fine. But the
>impact
> must have weakened the lower support of the post so it gradually was breaking
> itself loose. New battery solved the problem. You might think there should
> have been a pattern to the cut-outs- bumps, rough roads, etc.- but not such
>that
> I noticed, and I spent months looking hard. It may have simply been a matter
>of
> how much the battery warmed (expanding parts).
>
> Pete Pollock
> BJ7
> N. California
>
> Ian Nelson wrote:
>
> > I just experienced a rather curious problem in my 100-6. I was sitting at a
> > light when the car quit. Not a stumbling, coughing type of quitting. It was
> > as if someone had thrown an "Off" switch on the car. One-second it was
> > running, the next it wasn't. Turning the key and pushing the starter button
> > provided no reponse.
> >
> > I pushed the car to the side of the road and started checking the electrical
> >
> > connections. All of the wire connections appeared tight. Finally the car
> > started and I was able to drive home. It is a bit worrying, thinking that at
> >
> > any moment (At speed?) the car might cut out like that. I would like to
> > avoid
> > that at all costs.
From Herman Farrer <herman at hfphoto.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 17:05:38 -0400
Subject: British Car Day - Bowie, Maryland
Just a reminder to those in the Mid-Atlantic area that British Car
Day in Bowie, Maryland takes place this Sunday. With over 650 British
cars and motorcyles as well as cars and parts for sale. The MGT club
hosts a wonderful show that's worth the drive even if you live in New
York, PA, West VA, Delaware or even the Carolinas. For more info
contract: mailto:MGTClub@aol.com or phone (703) 323-1260.
See you there.
Herman
--
Capital Area Austin Healey Club
http://lightning.prohosting.com/~caahc
From Norman Cay <normcay at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 14:11:53 -0700
Subject: Re: Overheating / Buyer Beware / Palo Alto Concours
I had a similar symptom, driving along just fine and about 25 mph the engine
just
stopped. Inspection showed no spark at all - coil had just completely died.
replaced
coil and has been fine since.
norm
Todd S Taylor wrote:
> Go buy a new battery , it will eliminate one item in the trouble shoot.
>When you
> get strange things happening like that it's most likely the
> battery. It's not worth messing around with. I've had things happen where
>the car
> will not start, 5 minutes later the car starts and runs fine
> for 3 days .. then it won't start again. Also I've had a car slowly die
>while
> I was driving it. It was the battery both times .. replaced it and never had
> a problem again. I replace batterys now every 4 years if they need it or
>not...
> For the price it's not worth messing with. Todd.....
>
> 1959 100-6
> 1980 MGB limited
> 1996 Audi A4...
>
> "P.M. Pollock" wrote:
>
> > Same thing happened to me when my car was about 6 years old: he'd just
>quit.
> > No sputters, etc.- just as though I'd turned the key. And no apparent
>pattern
> > to when it would occur. Drove me nuts for months. Over and over I checked
>and
> > had checked all the electricals including the battery terminals and trunk
> > switch. Then one service time while topping up the electrolyte in the
> > nearly-new battery, I noticed a hairline crack in the battery case
>radiating out
> > from the positive post. You could hardly see it. Closer inspection showed
>such
> > cracks radiating outward from all the circumference of the post- but not
>from
> > the negative post.
> >
> > About three months before the cutting out started I'd been sharply
>rear-ended by
> > a pretty (hence unticketed) drunk. The body shop did a fine repair and
>nobody
> > paid any attention to the battery as it looked and worked fine. But the
>impact
> > must have weakened the lower support of the post so it gradually was
>breaking
> > itself loose. New battery solved the problem. You might think there should
> > have been a pattern to the cut-outs- bumps, rough roads, etc.- but not such
>that
> > I noticed, and I spent months looking hard. It may have simply been a
>matter of
> > how much the battery warmed (expanding parts).
> >
> > Pete Pollock
> > BJ7
> > N. California
> >
> > Ian Nelson wrote:
> >
> > > I just experienced a rather curious problem in my 100-6. I was sitting at
>a
> > > light when the car quit. Not a stumbling, coughing type of quitting. It
>was
> > > as if someone had thrown an "Off" switch on the car. One-second it was
> > > running, the next it wasn't. Turning the key and pushing the starter
>button
> > > provided no reponse.
> > >
> > > I pushed the car to the side of the road and started checking the
>electrical
> > >
> > > connections. All of the wire connections appeared tight. Finally the car
> > > started and I was able to drive home. It is a bit worrying, thinking that
>at
> > >
> > > any moment (At speed?) the car might cut out like that. I would like to
> > > avoid
> > > that at all costs.
From "RL Chrysler" <lchrysl at fhs.csu.McMaster.CA>
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 17:46:05 -0400
Subject: Re: Help on getting my car finished up.
Joe wrote:
> My BJ8 is close to being complete (whatever that means). While it is not
> perfect there are a few nagging factors that I'd like to handle. This car
> was bought new by my father in 67 and means a lot to my family. With the
> help of Phil Babcock in Fort Meyers it is looking really good. I opted
for
> not replacing those parts that were original except where they were
missing
> or really bad.
>
> Here are my issues. Late model BJ8.
>
> 1) Can anyone tell me what the hole is for just to the side of the rear
> brake lights.
> Here is the picture:
>
> http://joe.giuliano.home.mindspring.com/unkhole.jpg
I looked at your picture...that hole shouldn't be there. Back to the paint
shop and get her fixed.
>
> 2) I am told that the only way to get new kickpanels for the interior is
to
> buy the door panels too. Is this true? If not where do I get good
quality
> ones? I want to keep the door panels as they will clean up OK. Another
> shot of what I need.
>
>
> http://joe.giuliano.home.mindspring.com/kickpanel.jpg
Looked at this one too.. Suggest getting some vinyl with as close a match to
the door panels as possible, and make your own. Do you have the originals as
a guide? Also I didn't see any evidence of rear quarter panels, the ones
with the square pattern embossed into them Hope you've got them. The repro's
are really quite poor, they seem to have trouble getting the square pattern
even and aligned with the edges..not to mention the colour usually being
very off from the dark blue orig.
>
> 3) The drip rail for the top is missing. A new one at Moss is ~$500.
Does
> anyone know where I can get a replacement? In case I am not being clear
> here is another picture (don't you just love digital cameras)?
Missing?? Too bad. Maybe someone on the list can help here. When you find
one, it is finished in light grey, same as the top frame.
>
>
> http://joe.giuliano.home.mindspring.com/driprail.jpg
>
> 4) Does anyone know where I can get an original radio? If not what is a
> good AM/FM model to replace it with in the existing space so it looks OK?
Can't help you there. The original for the BJ8 was a Smiths "Radiomobile"
push button job, complete with a little amber pilot light to show when it's
on.
>
> 5) The dash padding is now black. In my foggy memory I recall it as being
> blue like the top was. Am I getting senile? Black or blue?
BJ8 dash top and door top edge padding was always black. It's only the BJ7
which was colour keyed.
Another couple of observations about the car. I looked at all your posted
photos, and noticed that the trunk lid has no 3000 or Austin Healey badges.
These will be located in the lower right area of the trunk lid. Check the
inside of the lid in this area and you'll see evidence of where thy were
located.
Last thing, the chrome grille surround has a ridge part way into it,
carrying all around the oval. From the crest of this ridge, in to the grille
teeth, this is to be finished in a dull silver grey. Some careful masking
and a spray bomb ususally does a great job.
Nice car, hope these tips help.
Rich Chrysler
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 17:45:04 -0500
Subject: Having a Cow
Hi,
As I will sometime be approaching the vinyl vs. leather question for my BJ8,
I have a question for the group:
When one opts for leather, which portions are actually leather? Would
someone be so kind as to list them all out, however trivial (or obvious)
they may seem?
So far, I know the front seats are leather on the seating face and the rear
pans are all leather. Don't know how the backrest is split but there is
that top protector panel behind the backrest which I'm not sure about. You
get the idea...
Thanks,
Adnan
From "Patrick QUINN" <QUINNP at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 09:50:34 +1000
Subject: Re: 4000 GT - Firrere
Hi Simon
Being at work I don't have my reference sources with me but the car you're
describing sounds like the special bodied 3000 that was producced in the 1960s.
If my feeble memory is right it came about as the result of a Europen design
competition that was won by a group of university design students. Their design
was actually made I think by an Italian aotu design studio.
It was definitely a 3000 and if no one comes up with the precise details
throughout my souther hemisphere day I will check it tonight in some 10 hours
hence.
There was never a 4000 coupe built but there was two cars built originally with
a third a short time later. There were also a total of six chassis also laid
down. One of the chassis and a third
>>> Simon Sabel 20/06/00 2:13:18 >>>
I always thought the Healey 4000 was only made as an open 2+2 and yet I have
found reference and a bad picture of a GT version with badges that call it
the 'Firrere' - does this exist ? what does the Firrere badge mean ?
Regards
Simon
BN4 Longbridge
From Martin Johnson <MJohnson at cfworks.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 11:19:25 -0700
Subject:
Hello Everyone:
I'm the excited new owner of HBN7L1039. It's a non-rusty project which
is surprisingly complete and original. It runs strong, but is somewhat
lumpy in the bodywork department. I'm going to send for the Heritage
Certificate, but can anyone make a wild guess when it was produced from
the car number? My plans are to undertake this in two phases: For the
immediate future, I want to get it running well, exorcise electrical
demons by spanking their butts with a new harness (cat 'o nine tales?),
and straighten the body. From there, I will go for cosmetics. I want
the car to be a reliable driver that looks nice and clean. Not a show
car, but not cutting any corners or compromising. I want to drive and
enjoy the car until the oil pressure gauge says I have to pull the
engine. I don't care about having to paint it twice, assuming it's
going to get scratched in the mechanical rebuild process in the future.
Thanks,
Martin Johnson
Santa Clarita, California
From Larry Dickstein <bugide at tfs.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 20:58:15 -0500
Subject: Re: boats?
XanaduWarrior@aol.com wrote:
> Hi guys, sorry this isn't a car question, but I'm looking for any info on
> Healey boats. Anyone know of any for sale, any condition, any location?
> Please reply to me direct to keep the list clear. Thanks!
>
> Butch
> Knoxville, TN
Contact Gary Lownsdale at GLOWNSDALE@aol.com He knows all there is to know
about them.
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 420
From "Patrick QUINN" <QUINNP at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 10:12:30 +1000
Subject: Re: 4000 GT - Firrere
Sorry had a glitch with the PC, so we try again
Hi Simon
Being at work I don't have my reference sources with me but the car you're
describing sounds like the special bodied 3000 that was produced in the 1960s.
If my feeble memory is right it came about as the result of a European design
competition that was won by a group of university design students. Their design
was actually made I think by an Italian auto design studio.
It was definitely a 3000 and if no one comes up with the precise details
throughout my souther hemisphere day I will check it tonight in some 10 hours
hence.
There was never a 4000 coupe built but there was two cars built originally with
a third a short time later. There were also a total of six chassis also laid
down. One of the spare chassis was used when the third was totalled in an
accident in Wales.
There are two 4000s in the UK and one here in Australia.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
>>> Simon Sabel 20/06/00 2:13:18 >>>
I always thought the Healey 4000 was only made as an open 2+2 and yet I have
found reference and a bad picture of a GT version with badges that call it
the 'Firrere' - does this exist ? what does the Firrere badge mean ?
Regards
Simon
BN4 Longbridge
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 23:01:09 -0400
Subject: Fw: British Car Day - Bowie, Maryland
Someone send me the URL/info on the Healey Registry recent emails have
discussed. Mine gets here Thursday
Lee
From "RL Chrysler" <lchrysl at fhs.csu.McMaster.CA>
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 17:46:05 -0400
Subject: Re: Help on getting my car finished up.
Joe wrote:
> My BJ8 is close to being complete (whatever that means). While it is not
> perfect there are a few nagging factors that I'd like to handle. This car
> was bought new by my father in 67 and means a lot to my family. With the
> help of Phil Babcock in Fort Meyers it is looking really good. I opted
for
> not replacing those parts that were original except where they were
missing
> or really bad.
>
> Here are my issues. Late model BJ8.
>
> 1) Can anyone tell me what the hole is for just to the side of the rear
> brake lights.
> Here is the picture:
>
> http://joe.giuliano.home.mindspring.com/unkhole.jpg
I looked at your picture...that hole shouldn't be there. Back to the paint
shop and get her fixed.
>
> 2) I am told that the only way to get new kickpanels for the interior is
to
> buy the door panels too. Is this true? If not where do I get good
quality
> ones? I want to keep the door panels as they will clean up OK. Another
> shot of what I need.
>
>
> http://joe.giuliano.home.mindspring.com/kickpanel.jpg
Looked at this one too.. Suggest getting some vinyl with as close a match to
the door panels as possible, and make your own. Do you have the originals as
a guide? Also I didn't see any evidence of rear quarter panels, the ones
with the square pattern embossed into them Hope you've got them. The repro's
are really quite poor, they seem to have trouble getting the square pattern
even and aligned with the edges..not to mention the colour usually being
very off from the dark blue orig.
>
> 3) The drip rail for the top is missing. A new one at Moss is ~$500.
Does
> anyone know where I can get a replacement? In case I am not being clear
> here is another picture (don't you just love digital cameras)?
Missing?? Too bad. Maybe someone on the list can help here. When you find
one, it is finished in light grey, same as the top frame.
>
>
> http://joe.giuliano.home.mindspring.com/driprail.jpg
>
> 4) Does anyone know where I can get an original radio? If not what is a
> good AM/FM model to replace it with in the existing space so it looks OK?
Can't help you there. The original for the BJ8 was a Smiths "Radiomobile"
push button job, complete with a little amber pilot light to show when it's
on.
>
> 5) The dash padding is now black. In my foggy memory I recall it as being
> blue like the top was. Am I getting senile? Black or blue?
BJ8 dash top and door top edge padding was always black. It's only the BJ7
which was colour keyed.
Another couple of observations about the car. I looked at all your posted
photos, and noticed that the trunk lid has no 3000 or Austin Healey badges.
These will be located in the lower right area of the trunk lid. Check the
inside of the lid in this area and you'll see evidence of where thy were
located.
Last thing, the chrome grille surround has a ridge part way into it,
carrying all around the oval. From the crest of this ridge, in to the grille
teeth, this is to be finished in a dull silver grey. Some careful masking
and a spray bomb ususally does a great job.
Nice car, hope these tips help.
Rich Chrysler
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 17:45:04 -0500
Subject: Having a Cow
Hi,
As I will sometime be approaching the vinyl vs. leather question for my BJ8,
I have a question for the group:
When one opts for leather, which portions are actually leather? Would
someone be so kind as to list them all out, however trivial (or obvious)
they may seem?
So far, I know the front seats are leather on the seating face and the rear
pans are all leather. Don't know how the backrest is split but there is
that top protector panel behind the backrest which I'm not sure about. You
get the idea...
Thanks,
Adnan
From William Moyer <William.Moyer at millersv.edu>
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 23:25:01 -0400
Subject: RE: Oil additives
-----Original Message-----
From: LarryRPH@aol.com
To: CAROLHALL@prodigy.net
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Phil,
I swear by one of the oldest additives on the market-Marvel Mystery OIL.
< Although a sworn cynic, I must agree with Larry. As I have stated earlier,
I started a Healey engine which had laid idle for over a decade with a new
fuel pump, a gas can perched on the "boot", and a new battery. I had filled
the cylinders with oil 10 years earlier. They were now dry. I had a
noticeable valve tap. A can of Marvel cleared it up. The old man at the
car parts shop that sold it to me said it was invented to be used in old
aircraft engines. I trust old guys, maybe because I am one. Maybe this is
crap, but I use it as well.
Bill Moyer, BJ7, no lead in Marvel,but I wouldn't try to pass CA smog
emissions with it in the tank.
From "Simon Sabel" <simon.sabel at flinthouse.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 17:56:16 +0100
Subject: Brass plugs
I actually had some made - but surely if someone sourced them they are the
safest way of cleaning the block - I also found sludge built up behind the
plugs as they were at the gallery ends which is good place to start cleaning
!
Regards
Simon
----- Original Message -----
From: Merchant, Adnan <Adnan.Merchant@mkg.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2000 5:29 PM
Subject: RE: surface rust removal block and crank
>
> Hi,
>
> Yes, the block has brass plugs that get trapped by the front and rear
> plates. I think there is a small one for the timing chain feeder that
gets
> sealed by the sump. I could not find replacements; perhaps someone has a
> source?
>
> Adnan
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Simon Sabel [mailto:simon.sabel@flinthouse.com]
> Sent: Monday, June 19, 2000 8:46 AM
> To: Martin Johnson; 'P.M. Pollock'; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: surface rust removal block and crank
>
> When I was racing Mini's there were brass plugs that we drilled out after
> any block work, these gave straight access to the oil galleries: once
> cleaned we bashed in a new set of brass plugs - is there anything similar
on
> a Healey block?
>
> Regards
>
> Simon
>
>
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 00:22:37 -0400
Subject: Re: Oil additives
I haven't tried it in my Healey but I did put in my 79 Trans-Am and it did
make a difference in my opinion. After driving about 40 miles if I had to
stop for a light the car would buck and almost stall on hard acceleration.
After ZMAX (the oil, fuel and transmission) additives the car runs quieter
and the bucking problem is a thing of the past. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
-----Original Message-----
From: PHILIP HALL <CAROLHALL@prodigy.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sunday, June 18, 2000 10:34 PM
Subject: Oil additives
>
>Guy's;
>
>I hate to raise this subject but......
>
>Has anyone tried some of these so called high tech oil additives eg;
>Prolong, Z max etc.?
>
>I have never tried any of this stuff and have always thought their
>claims were a buch of bull. A friend has put some of the Zmax in his MG
>and he swears that it runs smother and quieter.
>
>Has anyone else tried this stuff? Your thoughts???
>
>Phil
>
>
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 00:28:37 -0400
Subject: Re: Overheating / Buyer Beware / Palo Alto Concours
Did you notice any UFO activity in your area? RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
-----Original Message-----
From: Ian Nelson <ian@Remedy.COM>
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, June 19, 2000 12:38 PM
Subject: Overheating / Buyer Beware / Palo Alto Concours
>
>
>First, thanks to all of the list members who gave me advice regarding my
>overheating problem.
>
>The suggestions were:
>1. Use a six bladed fan
>2. Check the thermostat
>3. Add Red Line Water Wetter
>4. Add electrical fan
>5. Check cooling system for corrosion
>
>One quick buyer beware note. Before I received the advice above I rushed
out
>
>and bought an electrical fan from Moss. The total cost was $140.00. The fan
>kit came with the fan assembly and a thermostat. The next day I was in PEP
>Boys (Auto store) and saw the exact same fan for $69. Granted, the fan in
>the
>store did not have the thermostat portion. But I bet the cost of the
>thermostat alone would not make up the difference.
>
>Now on to my latest problem.
>
>I just experienced a rather curious problem in my 100-6. I was sitting at a
>light when the car quit. Not a stumbling, coughing type of quitting. It was
>as if someone had thrown an "Off" switch on the car. One-second it was
>running, the next it wasn't. Turning the key and pushing the starter button
>provided no reponse.
>
>I pushed the car to the side of the road and started checking the
electrical
>
>connections. All of the wire connections appeared tight. Finally the car
>started and I was able to drive home. It is a bit worrying, thinking that
at
>
>any moment (At speed?) the car might cut out like that. I would like to
>avoid
>that at all costs.
>
>
>Just out of curiosity, is anyone on the list entering their car in the Palo
>Alto Concours?
>
>
>Thanks,
>Ian Nelson
>100-6
>
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 00:31:19 -0400
Subject: Re: Overheating / Buyer Beware / Palo Alto Concours
Ah a man after my own heart. All healeys are hes not shes.
RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
-----Original Message-----
From: P.M. Pollock <pollpete@ix.netcom.com>
To: Ian Nelson <ian@Remedy.COM>
Cc: 'healeys@autox.team.net' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, June 19, 2000 4:18 PM
Subject: Re: Overheating / Buyer Beware / Palo Alto Concours
>
>Same thing happened to me when my car was about 6 years old: he'd just
quit.
>No sputters, etc.- just as though I'd turned the key. And no apparent
pattern
>to when it would occur. Drove me nuts for months. Over and over I checked
and
>had checked all the electricals including the battery terminals and trunk
>switch. Then one service time while topping up the electrolyte in the
>nearly-new battery, I noticed a hairline crack in the battery case
radiating out
>from the positive post. You could hardly see it. Closer inspection showed
such
>cracks radiating outward from all the circumference of the post- but not
from
>the negative post.
>
>About three months before the cutting out started I'd been sharply
rear-ended by
>a pretty (hence unticketed) drunk. The body shop did a fine repair and
nobody
>paid any attention to the battery as it looked and worked fine. But the
impact
>must have weakened the lower support of the post so it gradually was
breaking
>itself loose. New battery solved the problem. You might think there
should
>have been a pattern to the cut-outs- bumps, rough roads, etc.- but not such
that
>I noticed, and I spent months looking hard. It may have simply been a
matter of
>how much the battery warmed (expanding parts).
>
>Pete Pollock
>BJ7
>N. California
>
>Ian Nelson wrote:
>
>> I just experienced a rather curious problem in my 100-6. I was sitting at
a
>> light when the car quit. Not a stumbling, coughing type of quitting. It
was
>> as if someone had thrown an "Off" switch on the car. One-second it was
>> running, the next it wasn't. Turning the key and pushing the starter
button
>> provided no reponse.
>>
>> I pushed the car to the side of the road and started checking the
electrical
>>
>> connections. All of the wire connections appeared tight. Finally the car
>> started and I was able to drive home. It is a bit worrying, thinking that
at
>>
>> any moment (At speed?) the car might cut out like that. I would like to
>> avoid
>> that at all costs.
>
>
From Martin Filardi <filardi at uconect.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 21:40:18 -0400
Subject: RE: Head Gaskets
I used the spray copper from NAPA, on both sides, with no leaks.
----------
From: S.HUTCHINGS
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2000 10:05 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Head Gaskets
Hi all; is the current procedure for replacing head gaskets to install them
dry, or have people started using any additional sealants etc. .....I
haven't done this for a long time!
Stephen BJ8
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 21:24:49 +1000
Subject: Re: Overheating / Buyer Beware / Palo Alto Concours
Mine is definitely a she. No man could satisfy me like a blast in my BN4
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ray Feehan" <feehanr@cadvision.com>
To: "P.M. Pollock" <pollpete@ix.netcom.com>; "Ian Nelson" <ian@Remedy.COM>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, 20 June 2000 14:31
Subject: Re: Overheating / Buyer Beware / Palo Alto Concours
>
> Ah a man after my own heart. All healeys are hes not shes.
> RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
>
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 08:59:33 -0400
Subject: Battery Cables
Hi gang: It's me again! The Old Gray Devil with the Old Red Devil.
I want to thank everyone who responded to my cry for help regarding why the
Old Red Devil sputtered and spit.
I am in the process of taking out the small (very small) battery that was
installed by the mechanic who rebuilt my engine. He charged me $45 for a
battery that I think sells at WalMart for $24.
Anyway. Someone suggested putting in a Marine Deep Cycle battery in the
trunk. I have some 4 ought aluminum wire that I can use to run back there.
Any thoughts on using aluminum???? Also, what is the advantage/disadvantage
of using a Deep cycle battery???
The next question is regarding the spark plug wires and coil wire. Is there
supposed to be a black plastic thingy about two inches long and as big as
you little finger between the coil and the distributor? I'm thinking of
replacing all sparkplug wire and coil wire with the "bumblebee" type wire as
advertised in Moss's catalog.
What is that plastic thing and why is it there??
I am also replacing the in line fuel filter and checking the points. Still
haven't decided whether to attempt to install a set of electronic ignition
in the distributor. I thought I'd try static timing it per the Chilton
manual.
Any suggestions are appreciated.
Thanks
Don
BN7 (The Old Red Devil)
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 11:08:09 -0400
Subject: Re: Battery Cables
>Anyway. Someone suggested putting in a Marine Deep Cycle battery in the
>trunk. I have some 4 ought aluminum wire that I can use to run back there.
>Any thoughts on using aluminum???? Also, what is the
advantage/disadvantage
>of using a Deep cycle battery???
>
Aluminum wire is (or should be a No-No). It is difficult to crimp
correctly. Corrosion forms and you end up with a resistor instead of wire.
It can actually be a fire hazard. Use stranded, tinned-copper only. It
costs a few bucks more, but hardly anything relative to everything else
these LBCs require.
The deep cycle marine battery won't get you anything, and will probably be
detrimental. It is designed to provide low currents for a long period of
time and can take discharging to about 50% without appreciable damage. For
your purposes you want a starting battery designed to provide 100s of
amperes for a very short period of time before re-charging again. The
construction is vastly different (thin plates for starting batteries vs.
thick plate for deep cycle batteries.)
Lee
Northern Virginia
(Two days and counting...)
From Peter Brauen <pbrauen at telepak.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 00 09:58:29 -0500
Subject: Re:
Hi Martin,
Probably your car was produced in April or May of '59 considering that
3000 production commenced in March '59 and roughly 500 cars per month were
produced. (Based on Original Austin-Healey which gives 2194 as produced in
July '59)----Peter
-----Original Message-----
From: Martin Johnson <MJohnson@cfworks.com>
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, June 19, 2000 7:53 PM
Hello Everyone:
I'm the excited new owner of HBN7L1039. It's a non-rusty project which
is surprisingly complete and original. It runs strong, but is somewhat
lumpy in the bodywork department. I'm going to send for the Heritage
Certificate, but can anyone make a wild guess when it was produced from
the car number? My plans are to undertake this in two phases: For the
immediate future, I want to get it running well, exorcise electrical
demons by spanking their butts with a new harness (cat 'o nine tales?),
and straighten the body. From there, I will go for cosmetics. I want
the car to be a reliable driver that looks nice and clean. Not a show
car, but not cutting any corners or compromising. I want to drive and
enjoy the car until the oil pressure gauge says I have to pull the
engine. I don't care about having to paint it twice, assuming it's
going to get scratched in the mechanical rebuild process in the future.
Thanks,
Martin Johnson
Santa Clarita, California
From Peter Brauen <pbrauen at telepak.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 00 10:25:51 -0500
Subject: Re: Brass plugs
Hi all,
Victoria British lists several plugs in their MGB catalog, many of these
are the same size used on the Healey engine. NAPA sells what can only be
described as small freeze plugs that can be used as an alternative to the
brass plugs unless originality in this area is important to you. A word of
warning though! Make sure you mark clearly the holes that do and don't take
plugs. I had a customer bring me an MGB engine he had rebuilt himself and
couldn't figure out why it had almost 0 oil pressure. It turns out that he
put the plug in the oil relief hole, which is supposed to be open, and
neglected to put a plug in the gallery hole. They are close together and it
is an easy mistake to make. The pressure couldn't relieve itself and quickly
blew out the small area of pan gasket under the missing plug. The oil was
dumping right back into the pan with no external leaks at all. I will work
on finding out the sizes on the MG plugs as I have a B engine in for an
overhaul. Hope this helps.---Peter (BMC Restorations)
-----Original Message-----
From: Simon Sabel <simon.sabel@flinthouse.com>
To: Merchant, Adnan <Adnan.Merchant@mkg.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, June 20, 2000 12:59 AM
Subject: Brass plugs
I actually had some made - but surely if someone sourced them they are
the
safest way of cleaning the block - I also found sludge built up behind
the
plugs as they were at the gallery ends which is good place to start
cleaning
!
Regards
Simon
----- Original Message -----
From: Merchant, Adnan <Adnan.Merchant@mkg.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2000 5:29 PM
Subject: RE: surface rust removal block and crank
>
> Hi,
>
> Yes, the block has brass plugs that get trapped by the front and rear
> plates. I think there is a small one for the timing chain feeder
that
gets
> sealed by the sump. I could not find replacements; perhaps someone
has a
> source?
>
> Adnan
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Simon Sabel [mailto:simon.sabel@flinthouse.com]
> Sent: Monday, June 19, 2000 8:46 AM
> To: Martin Johnson; 'P.M. Pollock'; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: surface rust removal block and crank
>
> When I was racing Mini's there were brass plugs that we drilled out
after
> any block work, these gave straight access to the oil galleries: once
> cleaned we bashed in a new set of brass plugs - is there anything
similar
on
> a Healey block?
>
> Regards
>
> Simon
>
>
From "Michael Lempert" <mdlempert at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 11:27:38 -0400
Subject: Re: 3.54 differential
Mark:
I met someone recently who has a large inventory of Healey parts from many
years back when he was heavily involved with the cars. He did mention to me
that he had one non-overdrive gear set. I have not seen it, nor am I aware
of its condition. If you would like, I can make an offer on your behalf.
The 3.54 differential, as you probably know, is very rare and hard to
find. I have seen some very large number prices. This motivated me a
short while back to investigate having some manufactured as a small venture.
I received a quote for a 3.5 differential - the manufacturer thought a 42/12
would be better than the original Healey 39/11 ratio. A minimum run of 100
would be necessary.
I did a little poking around for interest but didn't gain the confidence I
needed to commit to such a large number. However, should there be enough
interest, I could pursue this again. The price would be about $220 per set
plus shipping.
Regards,
Mike L.
Bridgewater, NJ
'56 BN2
'59 BN7
'60 BT7
'60 Bugeye
'70 E-Type
'79 Midget
From JH67HEALEY at aol.com
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 11:33:50 EDT
Subject: Re: boats?
or contact the John May @ jdmay@attglobal.net. the President of the Austin
Healey Club SportsBoat Asscioation
From M Brouillette <mbrouill at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 12:05:12 -0400
Subject: Re:
These things didn't always go hand in hand, but my BT7 (HBT7L1281) was
built June 3, 1959.
Mike B
At 09:58 AM 6/20/00 -0500, Peter Brauen wrote:
>Hi Martin,
> Probably your car was produced in April or May of '59 considering that
>3000 production commenced in March '59 and roughly 500 cars per month were
>produced. (Based on Original Austin-Healey which gives 2194 as produced in
>July '59)----Peter
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Martin Johnson <MJohnson@cfworks.com>
> To: 'healeys@autox.team.net' <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Monday, June 19, 2000 7:53 PM
>
>
>
> Hello Everyone:
> I'm the excited new owner of HBN7L1039. It's a non-rusty project which
> is surprisingly complete and original. It runs strong, but is somewhat
> lumpy in the bodywork department. I'm going to send for the Heritage
> Certificate, but can anyone make a wild guess when it was produced from
> the car number? My plans are to undertake this in two phases: For the
> immediate future, I want to get it running well, exorcise electrical
> demons by spanking their butts with a new harness (cat 'o nine tales?),
> and straighten the body. From there, I will go for cosmetics. I want
> the car to be a reliable driver that looks nice and clean. Not a show
> car, but not cutting any corners or compromising. I want to drive and
> enjoy the car until the oil pressure gauge says I have to pull the
> engine. I don't care about having to paint it twice, assuming it's
> going to get scratched in the mechanical rebuild process in the future.
>
> Thanks,
> Martin Johnson
> Santa Clarita, California
From "John J. Black" <transmancat at bbnow.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 11:41:42 -0700
Subject: Around the world in British Columbia
Hi Guys
Since my last report the teams have moved out of Alaska via Whitehorse and
the funky trailer that doubles as a Canadian immigration/customs post. This
place is so remote it takes 10 hours to drive from the nearest town. The
single officer on duty here works 7 days on and 7 off and has to live in the
office!
As expected some of the cars are now picking up some body damage, The Hunts
Healey had a minor off, but no lasting damage was done. The Lancia Flavia
broke an axle and went backward down a bank. A local custom shop is trying
to beat it straight enough to continue while they try and source an axle.
The Chevy Fangio Coupe also had an 'off' and rolled but survived with
extensive damage but nothing that would prevent the car running. The rescue
teams Land Rover Disco has blown the engine and they are no trying to
convince a local British army detachment to 'lose' on of theirs from the
vehicles that they have. Knowing the British army, if they can talk to the
right man. Then anything is possible,.
The big old Lagonda has blown an engine after swapping places so many times
for the lead on this rally it is a shame if it has to go out of the event.
But, they have found another Lagonda with the engine intact and are trying
to purchase or borrow the parts required. With a piston and con-rod hanging
out of the side of the cylinder block the work required is extensive!
The Citroen 2CV has had a gearbox rebuild in the hotel foyer as this was the
only place with enough light. The Buick found a new wheel bearing in a local
parts store so it is happy once again.
The Porsche 356 has been 'off' several times and has picked up some
punctures as a result of the wrong tire choice and it has dropped a few
places as a result.
Placing
The Packard still leads the oldies with the Citroen about 1 hour behind. The
Ingham Bentley is in 6th place some 12 hours behind on the time. There are 3
Bentleys left in the Oldies class but all the Rolls have gone out or left
the event.
Teh classics are still lead by the Giles in the Hillman Hunter closely (15
hours further back!) followed by the Peugeot 404 then a gaggle of Mercedes
and in 7th place the XK 140 Jaguar of Meeus. Some 20 mins behind the Jaguar
in the Barry Weir Aston, the Dyke-Price Healey and the Porsche 356. The
Hunts are now in 16th position. Astons can also be found in 19th and 23rd
place.
The Team Healey Facel is still in the event but is struggling with a sick
engine and some body damage, it does not look good for the trek across the
Sahara it the car has so many problems in BC. For a certain Studebaker fan
the commander is now in 22nd place some 29 hours behind.
BTW I have posted some more pictures of the event on the website below.
Regards
John J Black
Waterloo Drivetrain Systems
http://www.waterloo-dtr.com
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 12:58:32 -0500
Subject: For sale
I have a new AH race/rallye aluminum trunk (boot) lid for sale.
Interested, please contact me off line. Much lighter than the original and
will not rust. Thanks.
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 14:46:18 EDT
Subject: Re: Having a Cow
I have bits of an original leather BJ8 interior. Here is what I found:
1) The seat cushions are entirely leather
2) The seat backs have leater on the front facing
3) I would do the two "ears" where the bolts go through hinging the backs
tot he base in leather, though I don't know how these were originally done.
4) The seat pan covers were leather.
5) The pleated rear seat back was leather.
6) All other interior trim was Ambla vinyl, a very soft, "cushy" material,
with slight grain to it (not nearly as strong a grain as on the leathercloth
found in previous roadsters).
7) All piping was in the same blue as the leather/vinyl.
8) All pleats were the same width as those on all-Ambla upholstery.
However, there were NO little square impressions in them as witht he Ambla.
9) The rear 1/4 panels DID have the large square embossed pattern in them,
since these were the standard vinyl material.
Roger
From Earle Knobloch <armynavy at gte.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 15:02:29 -0400
Subject: Re: Help on getting my car finished up.
Joe,
I also have my BJ-8 at Phil Babcock's Dyno Shop for body work and some
assembly... also very happy with the work
> 2) I am told that the only way to get new kickpanels for the interior is to
> buy the door panels too.
> Several years ago I talked with a fellow who had an inventory of used Healey
> interiors and assorted other parts
Dan Rapley
Bethel, CT
203-778-2601
203-778-4601 FAX
I never used his services but maybe he can help you... usual disclaimers..
I live in Estero... 947-9575... call if I can help
Earle Knobloch
> .
From "Richard E. Pratt" <prattri at email.msn.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 15:31:50 -0400
Subject: Oil Seal Shaft Size
List,
Could anyone give me the shaft dia. behind the flywheel flange on a 3000
crank.
TIA.
Richard Pratt
65 BJ8
Cincinnati, OH
From "John Macartney" <jonmac at ndirect.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 21:16:23 +0100
Subject: CLUBS - where are they?
THE HERITAGE MOTOR CENTRE
BANBURY ROAD
GAYDON
NR. WARWICK
ENGLAND CV35 0BJ
June 20, 2000
Dear Enthusiast
Our apologies in advance for 'bombing' so many lists with this request and for
the
resultant bandwidth - but your help will be appreciated.
The undersigned has recently taken full responsibility for the co-ordination of
all
marketing and promotion efforts on behalf of The Heritage Motor Centre's
interface with
classic car clubs on a global scale. One of the tasks currently in focus is to
identify as
many clubs as possible OUTSIDE the UK where we can keep you informed with
developments at
the Centre and to act as an information catalyst on a two-way basis. We already
have a
great deal of information about UK clubs but many are missing email addresses
and web
URL's. We would like to make up this shortfall.
We are anxious to establish contact with individuals throughout the world who
are able and
willing to act as 'cyber representatives' for the clubs to which they belong
and who would
be willing to forward messages from the Centre to Club committees where such
committee
members do not currently have either an email address or a web URL. Could you
be such a
person? If you do not wish to fulfil such a role, perhaps you could forward
this message
to someone you know who would be willing to contact us?
Initially, we are focussing on clubs - both national and local who cater
EXCLUSIVELY for
the following makes:
AUSTIN, AUSTIN HEALEY, LAND ROVER, MG, MINI, MORRIS, RANGE ROVER, RILEY, ROVER,
STANDARD,
TRIUMPH, VANDEN PLAS and WOLSELEY.
While internet search engines can identify many clubs, we believe a request
from us to you
is just as important - hence this message. If you belong to a club dedicated to
any of
those makes, we would like to hear from you. We require the following
information
THE FULL NAME OF THE CLUB
*EXCLUSIVE MAKE NAME* (I.E. AUSTIN HEALEY, MG, TRIUMPH)
THE NAME OF THE CYBER CONTACT
THE FULL POSTAL (snail mail) ADDRESS OF THE CYBER CONTACT
THE COUNTRY NAME IN WHICH THE CLUB IS LOCATED
A CONTACT TELEPHONE NUMBER
A CONTACT FAX NUMBER
A *RELIABLE* EMAIL ADDRESS
AN INTERNET WEB URL
We recognise that many enthusiasts may not live locally to a single make club
but do
belong to a MULTI-MAKE Club in which cars of the makes mentioned in the above
list are
popular. In that event, we would welcome the following information:
THE FULL NAME OF THE CLUB
*PREDOMINANT MAKES* in the CLUB (I.E. AUSTIN HEALEY, MG, TRIUMPH)
THE NAME OF THE CYBER CONTACT
THE FULL POSTAL (snail mail) ADDRESS OF THE CYBER CONTACT
THE COUNTRY NAME IN WHICH THE CLUB IS LOCATED
A CONTACT TELEPHONE NUMBER
A CONTACT FAX NUMBER
A *RELIABLE* EMAIL ADDRESS
AN INTERNET WEB URL
We wish to record as many clubs as possible throughout the world with
particular emphasis
being placed on clubs located on the continents of AFRICA, AUSTRALASIA, EUROPE
and NORTH
AMERICA. This is where we believe the majority of clubs are located but we will
be
delighted to have news of clubs in other locations as well.
This message will be transmitted at periodic intervals over the next few weeks.
You will
shortly be advised of my email address at Gaydon but in the meantime you are
welcome to
use my private address on this post for submitting the required details. My
colleagues and
I look forward to hearing from you and to welcoming you when you next come to
England and
wish to pay us a visit at the Centre.
Yours sincerely
John Macartney
Corporate Services - Clubs and Group Visits
THE HERITAGE MOTOR CENTRE - GAYDON
http://www.heritage.org.uk
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 14:08:01 -0700
Subject: Re: Battery Cables
A deep cycle battery is not meant to start cars, but they will. It is more
an "accessory" battery, low current draw over long periods of time. The
plates are not designed for short term high current draw.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Yarber" <dyarber@dynasty.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2000 5:59 AM
Subject: Battery Cables
>
> Hi gang: It's me again! The Old Gray Devil with the Old Red Devil.
>
> I want to thank everyone who responded to my cry for help regarding why
the
> Old Red Devil sputtered and spit.
>
> I am in the process of taking out the small (very small) battery that was
> installed by the mechanic who rebuilt my engine. He charged me $45 for a
> battery that I think sells at WalMart for $24.
>
> Anyway. Someone suggested putting in a Marine Deep Cycle battery in the
> trunk. I have some 4 ought aluminum wire that I can use to run back
there.
> Any thoughts on using aluminum???? Also, what is the
advantage/disadvantage
> of using a Deep cycle battery???
>
> The next question is regarding the spark plug wires and coil wire. Is
there
> supposed to be a black plastic thingy about two inches long and as big as
> you little finger between the coil and the distributor? I'm thinking of
> replacing all sparkplug wire and coil wire with the "bumblebee" type wire
as
> advertised in Moss's catalog.
>
> What is that plastic thing and why is it there??
>
> I am also replacing the in line fuel filter and checking the points.
Still
> haven't decided whether to attempt to install a set of electronic ignition
> in the distributor. I thought I'd try static timing it per the Chilton
> manual.
>
> Any suggestions are appreciated.
>
> Thanks
> Don
> BN7 (The Old Red Devil)
>
From "Karlsson Magnus" <healey at telia.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 23:59:18 +0200
Subject: Oil in water
My friend who is not on this list has encountered a severe engine problem.
He is getting quite a lot of oil into the cooling water. The head is OK, the
head gasket is OK and there is no water going into the sump. We figure that
there must be some crack or pore somewhere in the block, that when exposed to
the pressure of the oil will leak.
Has anyone on the list encountered a similar problem and if so, where in the
block should one start to search for weak areas?
Any suggestions are very welcome and also any ideas on if it is possible to
repair or if the block has to be scrapped.
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 18:17:49 -0400
Subject: Re: Oil in water
It is difficult for me to believe that it isn't a blown head gasket. Are
you sure there isn't frothing in the radiator when the engine revs?
Lee
-----Original Message-----
From: Karlsson Magnus <healey@telia.com>
To: Healey Lista <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, June 20, 2000 6:07 PM
Subject: Oil in water
>
>My friend who is not on this list has encountered a severe engine problem.
>
>He is getting quite a lot of oil into the cooling water. The head is OK,
the head gasket is OK and there is no water going into the sump. We figure
that there must be some crack or pore somewhere in the block, that when
exposed to the pressure of the oil will leak.
>
>Has anyone on the list encountered a similar problem and if so, where in
the block should one start to search for weak areas?
>
>Any suggestions are very welcome and also any ideas on if it is possible to
repair or if the block has to be scrapped.
>
>Magnus Karlsson
>SWEDEN
>
From "Karlsson Magnus" <healey at telia.com>
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 00:14:45 +0200
Subject: SV: Oil in water
Lee,
Thank´s for your answer.
No the head gasket is not blown. The engine has been completely renovated just
a couple of months ago. Both the block and the head was skimmed. We have lifted
the top and the gasket is like new. Thats why we suspect there is something
wrong with the block.
Regards
Magnus Karlsson
----- Original Message -----
From: Lee S. Mairs <lmairs@ix.netcom.com>
To: Karlsson Magnus <healey@telia.com>; Healey Lista <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 21, 2000 12:17 AM
Subject: Re: Oil in water
> It is difficult for me to believe that it isn't a blown head gasket. Are
> you sure there isn't frothing in the radiator when the engine revs?
> Lee
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Karlsson Magnus <healey@telia.com>
> To: Healey Lista <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Tuesday, June 20, 2000 6:07 PM
> Subject: Oil in water
>
>
> >
> >My friend who is not on this list has encountered a severe engine problem.
> >
> >He is getting quite a lot of oil into the cooling water. The head is OK,
> the head gasket is OK and there is no water going into the sump. We figure
> that there must be some crack or pore somewhere in the block, that when
> exposed to the pressure of the oil will leak.
> >
> >Has anyone on the list encountered a similar problem and if so, where in
> the block should one start to search for weak areas?
> >
> >Any suggestions are very welcome and also any ideas on if it is possible to
> repair or if the block has to be scrapped.
> >
> >Magnus Karlsson
> >SWEDEN
> >
>
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 18:25:43 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Around the World Rally - Duluth
As the List probably knows, I have taken responsibility for the rest/service
stop in Duluth for our Team Healey cars (the two Healeys and the Facel-Vega).
Ed Kaler of Just Brits has just sent me a big box full of various oil filters
(his welcome contribution) and I have a couple of cases of about every known
weight of oil, ready to take up to Duluth in my BT7.
Besides that I haven't a clue what sort of spares or replacements I should take
with me.
If any one on this List was involved with the ARW regarding service (or will be
involved) I would appreciate it if you would email me or the List with some
guidance.
TIA
DickB
----------------------------------------------------------------
From "Patrick QUINN" <QUINNP at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 09:48:12 +1000
Subject: Re: 4000 GT - Firrere
Hello Again Simon
I have now had a chance to look over various reference books.
In Graham Robson's book 'The Big Healey' there is a photo on p 82 of a coupe
style car with the caption stating that it looked very much like a MGBGT and
was the result of an 'Automobile Year' styling competition in 1962 following
which Pininfarina built the body on an Austin-Healey 3000 rolling chassis.
This same body design was also considered as the basis of the replacement for
the big Healey a year or so later and for a time the Rolls-Royce engine was
also considered along with Hydrolastic suspension. It was given the BMC code of
XC512 and unofficially called Fireball XL5 and it is possible to see a Healey
type badge on the cover with the word Firrere. Both Donald and Geoff Healey
hated the car as they did with the proposed Austin-Healey 3000 MkIV or the
badge engineered MGCGT.
All interesting stuff.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 20:02:04 EDT
Subject: Re: Around the World Rally - Duluth
In a message dated 06/20/2000 6:32:57 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
dickb@cheerful.com writes:
<< Besides that I haven't a clue what sort of spares or replacements I should
take with me. >>
>From what I have read, it sounds like a spare engine sump would be in order
for the one which has theirs smashed to the point where the crank is hitting
it. I'm sure it would be greatly appreciated. ;o)
Tim
From Bill Holt <lbcholt at one.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 20:28:04 -0400
Subject: Big Healey vs. Triumph TR6
My brother is a fan of LBC's. He used to own an MGB (which I now own) and
an MGA (which my other brother now owns).
He is interested in buying a Big Healey (as am I) or a TR6. He has seen a
couple of very nice, very low mileage (less than 50,000 miles) 1974 TR6's
in the $10,000 to $12,000 price range here in the Cincinnati area. Neither
of us have ever driven a big Healey and he just recently test drove a TR6
for the first time.
Are there any listers who can OBJECTIVELY compare and contrast the pros and
cons of the two cars, the TR6 and the big Healeys, particularly the 3000's,
BJ7's and BJ8's? It is apparent that a very nice TR6 can be had for far
less money than a similar big Healey, maybe up to $10,000 less. They both
are 6 cylinder cars, both are head-turners (although I think the A-H is
even more so), etc. I'm wondering what it is about big Healeys that makes
them cost so much more than a TR6.
Thanks for your input,
Bill Holt
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 21:19:27 -0400
Subject: Re: Big Healey vs. Triumph TR6
>It is apparent that a very nice TR6 can be had for far
>less money than a similar big Healey, maybe up to $10,000 less
Ahhh! The market speaks. This says it all.
Lee
Northern Virginia
One day to go...
From Bill Elliott <baelliott at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 20:59:31 -0500
Subject: Hayden Fan
Has anyone installed the Hayden 6 blade fan without removing the
radiator?
Thanks for the input
Bill Elliott
61 BT7
From FSFOPS at aol.com
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 22:19:26 EDT
Subject: Re: Overheating / Buyer Beware / Cutting out
My 3000 has the same problem of cutting out and when I jiggle the battery
shutoff switch in the trunk are it comes back to life. I feel the switch may
have an intermittent contact problem. I havnt torn it part or replaced it yet
but its on the list of thing to do.
Harry
From costan0 at attglobal.net
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 20:08:14 -0700
Subject: Throw out bearing
I have fixed my problem with a slipping clutch but since I have the
transmission out at this time, what is the thickness of the graphite part of
the bearing. Mine has very few miles but I would like to check before
replacing the transmission. This is a late 100-6 bearing.
Jerry
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 00:00:32 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Oil in water
Magnus
I'll probably be sorry for copying the List with this answer (due to all the
flaming I'll get), but I've had the same problem for at least three years and
in that time I've run countless gymkanas and driven my Healey about 5,000 miles.
I noticed oil in my radiator top tank - about the consistency of butterscotch
pudding. I drained the radiator and ran radiator flush, and then laundry
detergent, etc., through the radiator and the block (i.e. I drained the black
through the block drain) and two weeks later the butterscotch was back.
I removed the head and had it pressure tested (it was fine) and replaced the
head gasket ---- the problem persisted.
I concluded that there was a tiny crack in the block between a water galley and
an oil galley .
I have Never had Any water in the sump or in the oil at all.
So I decided to forget about it until I had some sort of indication that it was
causing some damage.
About once a month I dip some paper towels and shop rags into the top tank and
mop up the oil - usually about five tablespoons or so - and refill with
water/antifreeze - and go about my merry way. In other words I have decided it
is Not Severe !
I'll be very interested in the other comments you get to your inquiry.
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
> My friend who is not on this list has encountered a severe engine problem.
>
> He is getting quite a lot of oil into the cooling water. The head is OK, the
>head gasket is OK and there is no water going into the sump. We figure that
>there must be some crack or pore somewhere in the block, that when exposed to
>the pressure of the oil will leak.
>
> Has anyone on the list encountered a similar problem and if so, where in the
>block should one start to search for weak areas?
>
> Any suggestions are very welcome and also any ideas on if it is possible to
>repair or if the block has to be scrapped.
>
> Magnus Karlsson
> SWEDEN
>
Magnus
I'm probably a foll for answering this and copying the List
----------------------------------------------------------------
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 00:18:15 -0400
Subject: healey vs. TR6
The big Healey will get you more interior room a big plus I'd rather drive
comfortably, big Healey has the beauty contest hands down. BJ7-8 has a much
better soft top setup ( weatherproof ) . Better handling,TR6's love to do
the bunnyhop on hard cornering ( many owners convert to tube shocks on rear)
Price wise your best investment is still the healey because being built for
the middle market, ( TR6 competing with MGB and like bretheren on the lower
end ) price curve will rise steeper as more car for the money I've
restored both, driven both . The List may have similar stories to tell but
fair to all, If you get bitten by the TR6 bug , so be it ,I love the marque
too!
Carroll Top Down Restorations
From Brian Mix <brianmix at home.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 21:27:00 -0700
Subject: Diff. oil on my rear breaks
Hello,
I'm afraid to ask but, what is the procedure to replace the axal seals at the
wheels on a 100-4, 5-bolt rear end.
Brian Mix
'55 AH-100 LeMans
http://www.mixed-media.net/100Lemans/
Vice-President Austin Healey Club of San Diego http://www.sdhealey.org/
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 20:50:25 -0700
Subject: Re: Hayden Fan
Interesting trick, I would like to see it done....Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Elliott" <baelliott@worldnet.att.net>
To: "Healey Chat" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2000 6:59 PM
Subject: Hayden Fan
>
> Has anyone installed the Hayden 6 blade fan without removing the
> radiator?
>
> Thanks for the input
>
> Bill Elliott
> 61 BT7
>
From "Karlsson Magnus" <healey at telia.com>
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 10:41:40 +0200
Subject: Re; Oil in water
Thank´s a lot to all the people who responded to my Q.
Magnus Karlsson
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 19:59:11 +1000
Subject: Re: Oil in water
The cooling system operates at a higher pressure than the oil pressure. For
the oil to be getting into the water there must be some "additional"
pressure, e.g. cylinder compression.
Is he getting any water in the oil ?
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
----- Original Message -----
From: "Karlsson Magnus" <healey@telia.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, 21 June 2000 7:59
Subject: Oil in water
>
. We figure that there must be some crack or pore somewhere in the block,
that when exposed to the pressure of the oil will leak.
>
>
From "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virginnet.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 11:23:07 +0100
Subject: RE: Big Healey vs. Triumph TR6
Scarcity for a start.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Bill Holt
> Sent: 21 June 2000 01:28
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Big Healey vs. Triumph TR6
>
>
>
> My brother is a fan of LBC's. He used to own an MGB (which I now own) and
> an MGA (which my other brother now owns).
>
> He is interested in buying a Big Healey (as am I) or a TR6. He has seen a
> couple of very nice, very low mileage (less than 50,000 miles) 1974 TR6's
> in the $10,000 to $12,000 price range here in the Cincinnati
> area. Neither
> of us have ever driven a big Healey and he just recently test drove a TR6
> for the first time.
>
> Are there any listers who can OBJECTIVELY compare and contrast
> the pros and
> cons of the two cars, the TR6 and the big Healeys, particularly
> the 3000's,
> BJ7's and BJ8's? It is apparent that a very nice TR6 can be had for far
> less money than a similar big Healey, maybe up to $10,000 less. They both
> are 6 cylinder cars, both are head-turners (although I think the A-H is
> even more so), etc. I'm wondering what it is about big Healeys
> that makes
> them cost so much more than a TR6.
>
> Thanks for your input,
>
> Bill Holt
From "Steve Copplin" <scopplin at zip.com.au>
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 21:03:57 +1000
Subject: Upcoming events
Hi Folks,
I will be in Austin Texas visiting the Austin Technology Incubator for work
reasons, week of 26th June to 22 July. Any Healey things on for an
Australian BT7 owner in the local area?
Steve Copplin
Brisbane, Queensland Australia
1959 BT7
From "Scheuble, Fred J., HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 08:50:10 -0400
Subject: RE: Big Healey vs. Triumph TR6
I would be surprised if you can find a healey with that low of mileage for
that price...
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Holt [mailto:lbcholt@one.net]
Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2000 8:28 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Big Healey vs. Triumph TR6
My brother is a fan of LBC's. He used to own an MGB (which I now own) and
an MGA (which my other brother now owns).
He is interested in buying a Big Healey (as am I) or a TR6. He has seen a
couple of very nice, very low mileage (less than 50,000 miles) 1974 TR6's
in the $10,000 to $12,000 price range here in the Cincinnati area. Neither
of us have ever driven a big Healey and he just recently test drove a TR6
for the first time.
Are there any listers who can OBJECTIVELY compare and contrast the pros and
cons of the two cars, the TR6 and the big Healeys, particularly the 3000's,
BJ7's and BJ8's? It is apparent that a very nice TR6 can be had for far
less money than a similar big Healey, maybe up to $10,000 less. They both
are 6 cylinder cars, both are head-turners (although I think the A-H is
even more so), etc. I'm wondering what it is about big Healeys that makes
them cost so much more than a TR6.
Thanks for your input,
Bill Holt
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 07:54:29 -0400
Subject: Healey Chat Room
Hello Gang!
Are there any list members out there who might want to chat directly with
other Healey owners? Yahoo has a chat room for cars. (No other interest in
Yahoo).
The address is:
http://chat.yahoo.com/?room=Car%20Chat::1600326517
I will be there at 0900 Central Time each day. If anyone wants to meet me
there and say "howdy" chat awhile or ask or offer Healey technical advice,
I'd be glad to see you.
Don
BN7 (The Old Red Devil)
From "Mike Barron" <jmikebarron at hotmail.com>
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 12:58:03 GMT
Subject: Re: Big Healey vs. Triumph TR6
Well, I have never owned a Big Healey, but I went through a period where I
tried to own one, and finally ended up with a nice 73 TR6. You are
absolutely right, the Healeys are at least $10,000 more, as they are fewer
in number and have a big "drool factor" when burbling through the field at
the car show. Much more than a TR6, although the sweet sound of the TR6
engine is nothing to turn up your nose at.
IMHO, if it is your intent to drive the car, and not display it, I'd go for
the TR6. Because the Healey has a solid rear axle, my comparisions revealed
that the TR6 was a more comfortable long distance car, even though space was
less in the interior. We drive ours on vacations, 800 miles on our last
one. Further, the Healey has a lot less ground clearance, and tends to drag
off mufflers if the driver is not careful. Also, it appeared to me that the
Healey would be much harder to work on, with the small opening for access to
the engine.
But still, at the shows, I find myself standing along side the Healeys,
drooling along with everybody else. I'd stand along the Jags and do the
same thing, but they have guards that prevent this sort of behavior......
Mike Barron
73 six
60 three
>From: Bill Holt <lbcholt@one.net>
>Reply-To: Bill Holt <lbcholt@one.net>
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Big Healey vs. Triumph TR6
>Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 20:28:04 -0400
>
>My brother is a fan of LBC's. He used to own an MGB (which I now own) and
>an MGA (which my other brother now owns).
>
>He is interested in buying a Big Healey (as am I) or a TR6. He has seen a
>couple of very nice, very low mileage (less than 50,000 miles) 1974 TR6's
>in the $10,000 to $12,000 price range here in the Cincinnati area. Neither
>of us have ever driven a big Healey and he just recently test drove a TR6
>for the first time.
>
>Are there any listers who can OBJECTIVELY compare and contrast the pros and
>cons of the two cars, the TR6 and the big Healeys, particularly the 3000's,
>BJ7's and BJ8's? It is apparent that a very nice TR6 can be had for far
>less money than a similar big Healey, maybe up to $10,000 less. They both
>are 6 cylinder cars, both are head-turners (although I think the A-H is
>even more so), etc. I'm wondering what it is about big Healeys that makes
>them cost so much more than a TR6.
>
>Thanks for your input,
>
>Bill Holt
________________________________________________________________________
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 08:13:15 -0400
Subject: Healey Chat
I forgot to mention that you have to have a YAHOO i.d. which is free, all
you have to do is sign up for it.
The "general" car chat room is full of people who talk about everything but
cars.
I created my own chat room called "healeybug's chatroom" if you e-mail me
your YAHOO i.d. (off list) I'll add you to the guests that can get in the
private chatroom called "healeybug's chatroom".
Hope to see you all there.
Don
BN7
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 07:24:31 -0600
Subject: Re: Battery Cables
Likewise, buying a "MEGA" amperage battery is a waste of money on our low
compression LBC's.
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
click below for pictures
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/193/FSLO-947281688-900193.jpg
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/046/FSLO-952093816-742046.jpg
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/802/FSLO-952194843-487802.jpg
----- Original Message -----
From: "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg@telus.net>
To: "Don Yarber" <dyarber@dynasty.net>; "Healey List"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2000 3:08 PM
Subject: Re: Battery Cables
>
> A deep cycle battery is not meant to start cars, but they will. It is more
> an "accessory" battery, low current draw over long periods of time. The
> plates are not designed for short term high current draw.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Don Yarber" <dyarber@dynasty.net>
> To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2000 5:59 AM
> Subject: Battery Cables
>
>
> >
> > Hi gang: It's me again! The Old Gray Devil with the Old Red Devil.
> >
> > I want to thank everyone who responded to my cry for help regarding why
> the
> > Old Red Devil sputtered and spit.
> >
> > I am in the process of taking out the small (very small) battery that
was
> > installed by the mechanic who rebuilt my engine. He charged me $45 for
a
> > battery that I think sells at WalMart for $24.
> >
> > Anyway. Someone suggested putting in a Marine Deep Cycle battery in the
> > trunk. I have some 4 ought aluminum wire that I can use to run back
> there.
> > Any thoughts on using aluminum???? Also, what is the
> advantage/disadvantage
> > of using a Deep cycle battery???
> >
> > The next question is regarding the spark plug wires and coil wire. Is
> there
> > supposed to be a black plastic thingy about two inches long and as big
as
> > you little finger between the coil and the distributor? I'm thinking of
> > replacing all sparkplug wire and coil wire with the "bumblebee" type
wire
> as
> > advertised in Moss's catalog.
> >
> > What is that plastic thing and why is it there??
> >
> > I am also replacing the in line fuel filter and checking the points.
> Still
> > haven't decided whether to attempt to install a set of electronic
ignition
> > in the distributor. I thought I'd try static timing it per the Chilton
> > manual.
> >
> > Any suggestions are appreciated.
> >
> > Thanks
> > Don
> > BN7 (The Old Red Devil)
> >
>
>
From "John J. Black" <transmancat at bbnow.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 09:54:53 -0700
Subject: Around the world in Prince George
Hi Guys
THE story of the day has to go to that Lagonda M45. As you know the car was
stuck with a con-rod sticking out of the block and our hero's are trying to
get another engine out of a similar car that is for sale in Anchorage. Well
not only did they get the engine, the guy took it out of his car for them,
shipped it by air and truck to Prince George via Seattle and it is being
fitted by some workshop in Prince George who's owner just called in to see
if they need help!!!! The crew had to pay a trucker $3000 just to get the
car and themselves to Prince George so that they could stay with the event.
(This is not the first time this has happened, On the 1997 event one
competitor bought a truck in China after the car expired, put his car on the
back of the truck and carried on like nothing had happened!)
The engine, (4.5 liter Meadows) deal was done on the phone with no money
changing hands, just old car people helping each other. Once the car is back
in the UK the engine is going to be rebuilt and returned to Alaska. Now as
for the car being sold... right now I doubt that it would find a buyer!
<grin>
Can you imagine the sales pitch... OK you buy the car and when the engine,
that is now in a rally car, has finished rallying right across the USA,
Africa, the Sahara desert and up through Europe into the UK, I will send it
on to you! <grin>
The Rally leader (Giles in the Hillman Hunter) run into trouble today when
the radiator mounting brackets broke and teh radiator fell out! Luckily they
still made it to the check point. (phew, that man Giles really pushes his
luck with that old car!)
No changes on the scoreboard yet, so yesterdays information stands.
Enjoy.
Regards
John J Black
Waterloo Drivetrain Systems
http://www.waterloo-dtr.com
From "MindSpring User" <lmercibn6 at mindspring.com>
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 11:51:28 -0400
Subject: Goodwood Revival
We have booked, along with another couple, our trip across the pond in
September. Our route will take us from Manchester south to the
Cornwall area and across southern England to the Goodwood Revival
Meeting which is scheduled for 15-16-17 September.
I probably can't squeeze more than one of the days out of my bride and
the couple we are traveling with (also Healey owners). My question is:
Is a particular day at this event better than another? And, can you
give me any other information that will be helpful attending this
event.
Having seen the SpeedVision coverage of Goodwood I don't know how we
can be in England and not attend at least one day.
Thanks,
Larry Mercier
BN6, AN5, AN6, AN8
From ccruz at tribune.com
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 11:01:00 -0500
Subject: Battery Master Switch
Good day listers,
I'm getting ready to install a new harness and would like to install a
battery master switch back into the circuit. The car currently is not
wire with one - some PO probably kept it as a momento.
Moss carries one (#145-770) for about $90. Has anyone bought one from
them and can share their thoughts on quality and resemblance to the
original switch? Has anyone found a better quality one at another
source?
If anyone has one an OEM one lying around and wish to sell it, please
contact me off list to see if we can make a deal.
Thanks for your help,
Carlos Cruz
'60AH3KBN7
From Alice & Tom Syperski <tom.syperski at sylvania.sev.org>
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 12:19:22 -0400
Subject: British Car Showdiwn 6/23-25
Is anyone going to the Mid-Ohio Sports Car Course in Lexington Oho this
weekend for the "British Car Showdown and Swap Meet"?
http://www.midohio.com/finishlines/british.html
It will be a British Invasion at Mid-Ohio, Saturday,
June 24. Marques like Triumph, Jaguar, MG,
Austin Healey, Lotus and Morgan, to name a few,
will return to glory at the Sprint Vintage Grand Prix.
The Second Annual British Car Showdown rewards
these stellar machines with class awards for each
marque and unique honors like "Most Modest,"
"Largest Club Participation," "Most Miles Driven To
Mid-Ohio," and, of course, "Best of Show." This
show will feature some of the finest British
automobiles around. The show format will be
popular vote among the participants.
Tom
'61 BN-7
Sylvania, Ohio
From Bill Holt <lbcholt at one.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 12:55:56 -0400
Subject: Re: British Car Showdiwn 6/23-25
I think my brother will be there with his '69 Jag. Unfortunately, me and
my MGB have a prior family commitment so I won't be able to attend.
I notice that this is the Second Annual British Car Showdown at Mid-Ohio.
Do you know if there will be a Third Annual next summer and WHEN it will
be? Will it be the same weekend most likely, June 22, 23 and 24, 2001? If
so, I'll be sure to leave that weekend open. It sounds like a great event.
Bill Holt
Ft. Mitchell, KY
At 12:38 PM 6/21/00 -0400, Alice & Tom Syperski wrote:
>
>Is anyone going to the Mid-Ohio Sports Car Course in Lexington Oho this
>weekend for the "British Car Showdown and Swap Meet"?
From "George Castleberry" <leavcast at infomagic.com>
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 10:53:48 -0700
Subject: 100-4 wanted
I am looking for a BN1 or BN2 to purchase. I had a BN1 for a few years but
had to sell it in 1973 to pay rent. Fortunately I'm no longer in that
situation.
I would like a complete unmolested car with a straight rust free frame.
Usual body rust is OK. I can spend around $10K. A driver would be great.
I am in Arizona but will consider anything if the price including shipping
stays in my range.
Any leads would be appreciated.
George Castleberry
From francois wildi <fwildi at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 11:16:19 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: trying to find BJ7 door locking mechanism
Hi,
I lost my door locking mechanisms (both left and right!) during my
restoration and I am trying to find a set to complete the car.
I miss the parts numbered 60,50,40 and 41 in the Moss catalogue, page
128. That is in order:
60 -lock plate
50 -lock assembly
40 -remote control assembly
41 -connecting link
Does any one have them for sale or can tell me which lock assembly
from another can I can fit (I can machine the assembly or fabricate
an interface plate if needed).
Thank you
Francois
__________________________________________________
Send instant messages with Yahoo! Messenger.
From "R. C. Brown" <rcbrown at lucent.com>
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 14:10:55 -0500
Subject: Re: Battery Master Switch
Carlos,
I just looked at the AHSpares on line catalog, they have the switch for
42.50, of course that's ENglish, but with shipping and the conversion
it should come out the same. I usually have a much better feeling
when I order from AH Spares vs the big 2 here in the US.
If you need any help with the harness installation let me know and we'll
see about getting some club help.
BOb
ccruz@tribune.com wrote:
>
> Good day listers,
>
> I'm getting ready to install a new harness and would like to install a
> battery master switch back into the circuit. The car currently is not
> wire with one - some PO probably kept it as a momento.
>
> Moss carries one (#145-770) for about $90. Has anyone bought one from
> them and can share their thoughts on quality and resemblance to the
> original switch? Has anyone found a better quality one at another
> source?
>
> If anyone has one an OEM one lying around and wish to sell it, please
> contact me off list to see if we can make a deal.
>
> Thanks for your help,
> Carlos Cruz
> '60AH3KBN7
From RAntal243 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 16:17:17 EDT
Subject: Re: Overheating / Buyer Beware / Palo Alto Concours
Hi Ian,
It is a rare moment when I have anything to contribute to this list
which has helped me often in the past. Your experience was similar to an
event which occurred with my BJ8.
I pulled into a gas station, filled the tank and when I turned on the
ignition, it was dead. Nada, Zip. I went to the boot and jiggled the battery
cut off switch. The electrical system came alive. I suspect you have the same
problem or you battery terminals are corroded. Good Luck.
Rich Antal
From Martin Filardi <filardi at uconect.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 06:39:24 -0400
Subject: RE: Big Healey vs. Triumph TR6
A good friend of mine restored a TR6 at the same time that I did my BJ8. In
some ways they are the same British iron. They even have the same or similar
ignition systems. The difference is the way they are produced. Healey's are
hand made and a TR6 is more mass produced. The TR6 fenders can be bought for
less than $200 each on sale, and they are stamped fenders. The Healey fenders
are made on an English wheel by hand and go for over $550 each. I do not think
the carbs/ Solex / on the TR6 are as good as the SU on the Healey, but that is
more my own taste. They ride differently, and actually the TR6 has a nice
independent rear suspension.
The other huge difference is that the Healey has won more races, and has
far more history than a TR6. I think the TR6 did poorly on the track. In it's
day the Healey was in the headlines. There is nothing like the electric
overdrive that is standard on a Healey, and a rare option on a TR6. The TR6 was
made for the masses, and the Healey has it's roots in racing.
Of course, the Healey is much sexier.
----------
From: Bill Holt
Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2000 8:28 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Big Healey vs. Triumph TR6
My brother is a fan of LBC's. He used to own an MGB (which I now own) and
an MGA (which my other brother now owns).
He is interested in buying a Big Healey (as am I) or a TR6. He has seen a
couple of very nice, very low mileage (less than 50,000 miles) 1974 TR6's
in the $10,000 to $12,000 price range here in the Cincinnati area. Neither
of us have ever driven a big Healey and he just recently test drove a TR6
for the first time.
Are there any listers who can OBJECTIVELY compare and contrast the pros and
cons of the two cars, the TR6 and the big Healeys, particularly the 3000's,
BJ7's and BJ8's? It is apparent that a very nice TR6 can be had for far
less money than a similar big Healey, maybe up to $10,000 less. They both
are 6 cylinder cars, both are head-turners (although I think the A-H is
even more so), etc. I'm wondering what it is about big Healeys that makes
them cost so much more than a TR6.
Thanks for your input,
Bill Holt
From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 18:47:54 EDT
Subject: Battery Switch
In a message dated 06/21/2000 4:28:31 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
RAntal243@aol.com writes:
<< I pulled into a gas station, filled the tank and when I turned on the
ignition, it was dead. Nada, Zip. I went to the boot and jiggled the battery
cut off switch. The electrical system came alive. I suspect you have the
same
problem or you battery terminals are corroded. >>
Yup, I had the same thing. I took my switch apart and found a bunch of green
gook inside. (This after I saw how much a replacement cost figuring I can
fix almost anything as simple as a switch.) Try drilling out the three
rivets and opening the thing up. You will probably find 30 years of
oxidation inside. Clean it out with a rag and some solvent and she'll be
good as new. I used the non-concourse pop-rivets for re-assembly. ;o)
Just remember how you took it apart by scoring the casing before actually
opening it for easy re-assembly.
Tim Wallace
'67 BJ8
Fuquay-Varina, NC
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 18:54:48 -0400
Subject: Arriving tomorrow...
Well, the bad news is starting to come in.
My BT7 that I've been waiting two months for arrives tomorrow. The guy
carrying it just called to confirm an late afternoon ETA and, oh by the way,
did you know that the gas tank leaks?
Anybody want to tell me the bad news re: the cost of replacing a gas tank?
Lee Mairs
Northern Virginia
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 20:29:20 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Battery Master Switch
Carlos
If you care about authenticity then of course go with the original Lucas switch
but if you just want to disconnect for fire safety and theft-proofing you can
buy a better and cheaper switch at NAPA, etc., OR you can get a TakeApart
terminal - one half attaches firmly to the negative post of the battery
(assuming your car is still Positive Ground) and the other half to the cable
that enters the boot/truck vertical panel and goes forward. The two halves
connect with a knurled knob - very secure - easy to remove and stick in your
pocket - and less than $10 US. I installed one and I love it.
DickB
'62 BT7 Tricarb
---- you wrote:
>
> Carlos,
>
> I just looked at the AHSpares on line catalog, they have the switch for
> 42.50, of course that's ENglish, but with shipping and the conversion
> it should come out the same. I usually have a much better feeling
> when I order from AH Spares vs the big 2 here in the US.
>
> If you need any help with the harness installation let me know and we'll
> see about getting some club help.
> BOb
> ccruz@tribune.com wrote:
> >
> > Good day listers,
> >
> > I'm getting ready to install a new harness and would like to install a
> > battery master switch back into the circuit. The car currently is not
> > wire with one - some PO probably kept it as a momento.
> >
> > Moss carries one (#145-770) for about $90. Has anyone bought one from
> > them and can share their thoughts on quality and resemblance to the
> > original switch? Has anyone found a better quality one at another
> > source?
> >
> > If anyone has one an OEM one lying around and wish to sell it, please
> > contact me off list to see if we can make a deal.
> >
> > Thanks for your help,
> > Carlos Cruz
> > '60AH3KBN7
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From Barry Pate <jbpate at attglobal.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 05:14:17 -0400
Subject: Battery cable
Anyone know of a source to order some welding cable to replace the
battery cable from the battery to the solenoid. I have been told that
it is actually better (lower impedance) than the standard replacement.
Barry Pate 1967 BJ8
--
GIF89aHH
From Jaral48462 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 08:39:59 EDT
Subject: Meadow Brook Concours d'Elegance 2000
Hi Gang,
The Tour d'Elegance is planned and ready to go leading up to the Meadow Brook
Concours d'Elegance. As always the event will take place the first weekend
in August. The dates for the Tour are August 4 thru 6. Pre-Registration
for the Tour d'Elegance will close July 10, 2000. To obtain a registration
form go to <A HREF="http://tourdelegance.com/";>Tour d'Elegance</A> www.tou
rdelegance.com and follow the links. You will also find information on the
week ends Vintage Races at Waterford Hill, the friday afternoon Rallye,
Police escorted parade to the Clarkston, Depot Park Car Show and the Saturday
Sports Car Show. Discount pricing for all events are available with
pre-registration.
Information and details of the Concours itself can be found at
<A HREF="http://mbhconcours.org/";>2000 Concours d' Elegance</A>
www.mbhconcours.org
Pass these Web Sites on to your friends and Newsletter Editors.
Ron Mitchell
Web Master Tour d'Elegance
From "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virginnet.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 13:36:42 +0100
Subject: Triple 2in SUs
There was thread on this topic once. It came to no
conclusions that I can recall.
I have discovered a Jaguar tuning & resto place nr.
me that has a load of 2in SUs. They'll practically give
them away. Which has got me thinking.......
Will these fit on the standard MkII BT7 manifolds?
Will the linkage need to be 100% replaced or just modified?
Will this setup use a lot more petrol?
And, most importantly, will I see any improvement?
The car has Denis Welch rebuilt head and fast road cam.
Simon.
From "Scheuble, Fred J., HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 08:49:14 -0400
Subject: RE: Big Healey vs. Triumph TR6
I agree with all of it except the healey overdrive was an option
-----Original Message-----
From: Martin Filardi [mailto:filardi@uconect.net]
Sent: Wednesday, June 21, 2000 6:39 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net; 'Bill Holt'
Subject: RE: Big Healey vs. Triumph TR6
A good friend of mine restored a TR6 at the same time that I did my BJ8. In
some ways they are the same British iron. They even have the same or similar
ignition systems. The difference is the way they are produced. Healey's are
hand made and a TR6 is more mass produced. The TR6 fenders can be bought for
less than $200 each on sale, and they are stamped fenders. The Healey
fenders are made on an English wheel by hand and go for over $550 each. I do
not think the carbs/ Solex / on the TR6 are as good as the SU on the Healey,
but that is more my own taste. They ride differently, and actually the TR6
has a nice independent rear suspension.
The other huge difference is that the Healey has won more races, and
has far more history than a TR6. I think the TR6 did poorly on the track. In
it's day the Healey was in the headlines. There is nothing like the electric
overdrive that is standard on a Healey, and a rare option on a TR6. The TR6
was made for the masses, and the Healey has it's roots in racing.
Of course, the Healey is much sexier.
----------
From: Bill Holt
Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2000 8:28 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Big Healey vs. Triumph TR6
My brother is a fan of LBC's. He used to own an MGB (which I now own) and
an MGA (which my other brother now owns).
He is interested in buying a Big Healey (as am I) or a TR6. He has seen a
couple of very nice, very low mileage (less than 50,000 miles) 1974 TR6's
in the $10,000 to $12,000 price range here in the Cincinnati area. Neither
of us have ever driven a big Healey and he just recently test drove a TR6
for the first time.
Are there any listers who can OBJECTIVELY compare and contrast the pros and
cons of the two cars, the TR6 and the big Healeys, particularly the 3000's,
BJ7's and BJ8's? It is apparent that a very nice TR6 can be had for far
less money than a similar big Healey, maybe up to $10,000 less. They both
are 6 cylinder cars, both are head-turners (although I think the A-H is
even more so), etc. I'm wondering what it is about big Healeys that makes
them cost so much more than a TR6.
Thanks for your input,
Bill Holt
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at connect.comdek.net.au>
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 20:55:27 +0800
Subject: Re: Battery Master Switch
If you have two lying around contact me as well.
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
BT7 in resto
----- Original Message -----
From: <ccruz@tribune.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 22, 2000 12:01 AM
Subject: Battery Master Switch
>
> Good day listers,
>
> I'm getting ready to install a new harness and would like to install
a
> battery master switch back into the circuit. The car currently is
not
> wire with one - some PO probably kept it as a momento.
>
> Moss carries one (#145-770) for about $90. Has anyone bought one
from
> them and can share their thoughts on quality and resemblance to the
> original switch? Has anyone found a better quality one at another
> source?
>
> If anyone has one an OEM one lying around and wish to sell it, please
> contact me off list to see if we can make a deal.
>
> Thanks for your help,
> Carlos Cruz
> '60AH3KBN7
>
From "R. C. Brown" <rcbrown at lucent.com>
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 07:59:49 -0500
Subject: Possible engine needed
North AMerican List Members,
I have received an inquiry from one of the Around the World in 80 Days
Rally teams as to the POSSIBLE availability of a Healey 3000 engine.
The specific request is for a ready to go engine or block only, their
head is probably okay.
The Rally will be in Banff, BC tonight and tomorrow before entering the
U.S., next rest day is Duluth June 30. If an engine is available it
would need to get to either Duluth or someplace between Banff and
Duluth.
The need for an engine has not been fully determined, but I'm would
like to determine if one is available. Remember the Lagonda that
blew its engine last week, an engine has been loaned to that team to
complete the ATW.
Please contact me off list if you might be able to help
Thanks,
Bob Brown
rcbrown@lucent.com
From RobertH148 at aol.com
Date: Thu Jun 22 09:40:31 2000
Subject: RE: Big Healey vs. Triumph TR6
I have to disagree with your statement that Healeys won more races that TR6's.
In the mid-60's, the Group44 TR6's with Bob Tullius won most of the races they
entered and regularly beat the few Healeys that were running on the East Coast
at the time. There was a Healey raced by Jerry Truitt that was quite fast and
was highly competitive at the time, but few others.
You may be correct that - over all - Healeys did win more races, but not
against the TR6.
Bob Humphreys
From Joseph Elmer <Joelmer at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 10:20:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Battery Master Switch
Carlos: J.C. Whitney also carries a variety of disconnect switches in the
range of $20 - $25 dollars, but the nice thing about going to a local parts
store is you get to see it without paying for shipping. Anyway, Whitney's
number is 1-800-529-4486. You can look in the catalogue (p.178) and see if
anything matches close or if you want to spring for the real thing. Joe Elmer,
53-BN1.
dickb@cheerful.com wrote:
> Carlos
>
> If you care about authenticity then of course go with the original Lucas
>switch but if you just want to disconnect for fire safety and theft-proofing
>you can buy a better and cheaper switch at NAPA, etc., OR you can get a
>TakeApart terminal - one half attaches firmly to the negative post of the
>battery (assuming your car is still Positive Ground) and the other half to the
>cable that enters the boot/truck vertical panel and goes forward. The two
>halves connect with a knurled knob - very secure - easy to remove and stick in
>your pocket - and less than $10 US. I installed one and I love it.
>
> DickB
> '62 BT7 Tricarb
>
> ---- you wrote:
> >
> > Carlos,
> >
> > I just looked at the AHSpares on line catalog, they have the switch for
> > 42.50, of course that's ENglish, but with shipping and the conversion
> > it should come out the same. I usually have a much better feeling
> > when I order from AH Spares vs the big 2 here in the US.
> >
> > If you need any help with the harness installation let me know and we'll
> > see about getting some club help.
> > BOb
> > ccruz@tribune.com wrote:
> > >
> > > Good day listers,
> > >
> > > I'm getting ready to install a new harness and would like to install
>a
> > > battery master switch back into the circuit. The car currently is
>not
> > > wire with one - some PO probably kept it as a momento.
> > >
> > > Moss carries one (#145-770) for about $90. Has anyone bought one
>from
> > > them and can share their thoughts on quality and resemblance to the
> > > original switch? Has anyone found a better quality one at another
> > > source?
> > >
> > > If anyone has one an OEM one lying around and wish to sell it, please
> > > contact me off list to see if we can make a deal.
> > >
> > > Thanks for your help,
> > > Carlos Cruz
> > > '60AH3KBN7
> >
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 10:29:22 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Battery cable
Barry
Go to any local Auto-sound shop and ask them for a sufficient length of fat
stranded cable - 1/0, 2/0 or 3/0. Get a piece about as thick as your thumb (I
think that's about 2/0). It will be copper stranded. They can also crimp
copper ends on it for you - or at least a ring terminal on the end you want to
attach to the starter/solenoid and you can use a standard battery terminal at
the other end.
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
> Anyone know of a source to order some welding cable to replace the
> battery cable from the battery to the solenoid. I have been told that
> it is actually better (lower impedance) than the standard replacement.
> Barry Pate 1967 BJ8
>
> --
> GIF89aHH
>
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From "R. C. Brown" <rcbrown at lucent.com>
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 09:40:47 -0500
Subject: Re: Battery Master Switch
Carlos,
If looking a the switch and not paying for shipping are important,
J.C.Whitney is about an hour drive from you. Go west on IL-34 to
Oswego, west on IL-71 (that is where the drive gets interesting),
west on I-80 to either exit 90 or 81 where J.C.Whitney is located.
Bob
Joseph Elmer wrote:
>
> Carlos: J.C. Whitney also carries a variety of disconnect switches in the
>range of $20 - $25 dollars, but the nice thing about going to a local parts
>store is you get to see it without paying for shipping. Anyway, Whitney's
>number is 1-800-529-4486. You can look in the catalogue (p.178) and see if
>anything matches close or if you want to spring for the real thing. Joe
>Elmer, 53-BN1.
>
> dickb@cheerful.com wrote:
>
> > Carlos
> >
> > If you care about authenticity then of course go with the original Lucas
>switch but if you just want to disconnect for fire safety and theft-proofing
>you can buy a better and cheaper switch at NAPA, etc., OR you can get a
>TakeApart terminal - one half attaches firmly to the negative post of the
>battery (assuming your car is still Positive Ground) and the other half to the
>cable that enters the boot/truck vertical panel and goes forward. The two
>halves connect with a knurled knob - very secure - easy to remove and stick in
>your pocket - and less than $10 US. I installed one and I love it.
> >
> > DickB
> > '62 BT7 Tricarb
> >
> > ---- you wrote:
> > >
> > > Carlos,
> > >
> > > I just looked at the AHSpares on line catalog, they have the switch for
> > > 42.50, of course that's ENglish, but with shipping and the conversion
> > > it should come out the same. I usually have a much better feeling
> > > when I order from AH Spares vs the big 2 here in the US.
> > >
> > > If you need any help with the harness installation let me know and we'll
> > > see about getting some club help.
> > > BOb
> > > ccruz@tribune.com wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Good day listers,
> > > >
> > > > I'm getting ready to install a new harness and would like to
>install a
> > > > battery master switch back into the circuit. The car currently is
>not
> > > > wire with one - some PO probably kept it as a momento.
> > > >
> > > > Moss carries one (#145-770) for about $90. Has anyone bought one
>from
> > > > them and can share their thoughts on quality and resemblance to the
> > > > original switch? Has anyone found a better quality one at another
> > > > source?
> > > >
> > > > If anyone has one an OEM one lying around and wish to sell it,
>please
> > > > contact me off list to see if we can make a deal.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks for your help,
> > > > Carlos Cruz
> > > > '60AH3KBN7
> > >
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 08:27:59 -0700
Subject: Re: Triple 2in SUs
I have on my MK2 BT7 triple 1.75's which fit tight. The stock aircleaner on
the firewall carb has rubbed on the steering column. I would think that 2
inch carbs would be very tight if they even fit. I can't attest to the
performance benifits but I feel there is a little more poop. The gas mileage
is slightly worse especially with a heavy foot. As for the linkage, yes
definately modification required. The choke was definately a taxing
experience....Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@virginnet.co.uk>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 22, 2000 5:36 AM
Subject: Triple 2in SUs
>
>
> There was thread on this topic once. It came to no
> conclusions that I can recall.
>
> I have discovered a Jaguar tuning & resto place nr.
> me that has a load of 2in SUs. They'll practically give
> them away. Which has got me thinking.......
>
> Will these fit on the standard MkII BT7 manifolds?
> Will the linkage need to be 100% replaced or just modified?
> Will this setup use a lot more petrol?
> And, most importantly, will I see any improvement?
>
> The car has Denis Welch rebuilt head and fast road cam.
>
> Simon.
>
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 12:39:35 EDT
Subject: Jim Albeck
Sorrly to send this to all, but I need Jim Albeck's e-mail address.
Thanks,
Roger
From "Pagel, John" <John.Pagel at imotors.com>
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 10:07:11 -0700
Subject: RE: Big Healey vs. Triumph TR6
I've had both, enjoyed both, The Healey success was in the rally
events, the TR6 was a road racer. The 6 didn't exist 'til 69, the Group44
cars had their successes in the early 70's Paul Newman used to race a TR6,
it was one of his first race cars, in about '74 or '75. The earlier
Triumphs had some rally wins and the best racing Triumph in the '60's were
campaigned by Bob Tullius(sp) and were TR4's
That's what's stored in my brain, it could be wrong..........
John Pagel
Customer care leader
tel 888-iMotors
fax 916-686-7818
john.pagel@imotors.com
You've never bought a used car like this!
-----Original Message-----
From: RobertH148@aol.com [mailto:RobertH148@aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, June 22, 2000 2:41 AM
To: filardi@uconect.net; healeys@autox.team.net; lbcholt@one.net
Subject: RE: Big Healey vs. Triumph TR6
I have to disagree with your statement that Healeys won more races that
TR6's. In the mid-60's, the Group44 TR6's with Bob Tullius won most of the
races they entered and regularly beat the few Healeys that were running on
the East Coast at the time. There was a Healey raced by Jerry Truitt that
was quite fast and was highly competitive at the time, but few others.
You may be correct that - over all - Healeys did win more races, but not
against the TR6.
Bob Humphreys
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 13:18:20 -0400
Subject: Re: Throw out bearing
costan0@attglobal.net wrote:
> I have fixed my problem with a slipping clutch but since I have the
> transmission out at this time, what is the thickness of the graphite part of
> the bearing. Mine has very few miles but I would like to check before
> replacing the transmission. This is a late 100-6 bearing.
>
> Jerry
Hi Jerry,
Just measured a new one and it has 4.7 mm of carbon above the steel holder.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From "Andy King" <healey-100 at hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 07:36:50 -1000
Subject: Re: Triple 2in SUs
I am running BJ8 2" carbs on the 100, The engine has big valves from a
oldsmobile 350 and the original down to the part number on the front Lemans
cam, the lower end is balanced and the flywheel machined to fit the wider
BJ8 Daiaphram clutch. It ran perfect from the first time it fired up. I had
to open the air bleed screws several turns, so I will one day run leaner
needles. I could not use Jag 2" carbs because the float bowls sit at the
wrong angle when bolted to a healey manifold. It is the same for the 6
cylinder healey manifold, if you use Jag carbs you will need to get healey
float bowl assys.
Andy King
----- Original Message -----
From: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@virginnet.co.uk>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 22, 2000 2:36 AM
Subject: Triple 2in SUs
>
>
> There was thread on this topic once. It came to no
> conclusions that I can recall.
>
> I have discovered a Jaguar tuning & resto place nr.
> me that has a load of 2in SUs. They'll practically give
> them away. Which has got me thinking.......
>
> Will these fit on the standard MkII BT7 manifolds?
> Will the linkage need to be 100% replaced or just modified?
> Will this setup use a lot more petrol?
> And, most importantly, will I see any improvement?
>
> The car has Denis Welch rebuilt head and fast road cam.
>
> Simon.
From ccruz at tribune.com
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 13:01:00 -0500
Subject: Big Healey vs. Triumph TR6
> Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 20:28:04 -0400
> From: Bill Holt <lbcholt@one.net>
> Subject: Big Healey vs. Triumph TR6
<< Are there any listers who can OBJECTIVELY compare and contrast the
pros and cons of the two cars, the TR6 and the big Healeys,
particularly the 3000's, BJ7's and BJ8's? It is apparent that a very
nice TR6 can be had for far less money than a similar big Healey,
maybe up to $10,000 less. They both are 6 cylinder cars, both are
head-turners (although I think the A-H is even more so), etc. I'm
wondering what it is about big Healeys that makes them cost so much
more than a TR6. >>
Bill,
I don't think it is possible to find objectivity on a list dedicated
to Healey Enthusiasts, but I'm sure you'll find people who will try.
The questions you need to answer is, "Do you want to be waved at?" or
"Do you want to wave first?". ;-0
Being in the former category here's my .02 cents. There's no
comparison between the Big Healeys and the TR6. Don't get me wrong, I
really, really like the TR6 and actually considering the purchase of
one as a project car.
You're correct in that a TR6 is a head-turner. Although a Healey will
not only turn heads, but will actually stop people and force a
double-take. As for the price difference, it's all in the numbers.
TR6's were churned out long after the last Healey and I believe in
vastly larger quantities. Therefore the laws of supply & demand kick
in.
Again both are great drives and unique in their own ways. Regardless
of what you end up with, please avoid asking the list about Oil
preferences, engine color and speeding tickets.
Subjectively yours,
Carlos Cruz
'60 AH3KBN7
From ccruz at tribune.com
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 13:20:00 -0500
Subject:
There was a free one put up on the list earlier this week. I believe
it was located in So. California. Paying the shipping will probably
be cheaper then buying a replacement. Check the archives.
Best regards,
Carlos Cruz
'60 AH3KBN7
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 18:54:48 -0400
From: "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Arriving tomorrow...
Well, the bad news is starting to come in.
My BT7 that I've been waiting two months for arrives tomorrow. The
guy
carrying it just called to confirm an late afternoon ETA and, oh by
the way,
did you know that the gas tank leaks?
Anybody want to tell me the bad news re: the cost of replacing a gas
tank?
Lee Mairs
Northern Virginia
From ccruz at tribune.com
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 13:21:00 -0500
Subject: Battery Master Switch
Thank you all for your advice and input. A great help as always.
Best regards,
Carlos Cruz
From "John J. Black" <transmancat at bbnow.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 13:22:48 -0700
Subject: Around the world heading towards Banff and Lake Louise
Hi Guys
For those of you that requested the information, the Lagonda now has an
engine and the car is back in the rally with eh Alaskan engine 'doing the
business!
The Rolhf Mercedes has made an ever such a small hole in some Canadian
farmers fence and this did not please the aforementioned farmer, but he was
paid for it and apart from the time lost all is now well.
The little 2CV Citroen has had another transmission problem after the drain
plug fell out (what happened to the lock wire guys? that is why its fitted!)
The passing Chevy of Bill Seacrest saved the day by loaning the 2CV a gallon
of oil that at least let him finish the section. On these event you have to
help each other out to get by. Remember that there are over 30 days to go
yet!
URGENT REQUEST
WANTED; ONE AUSTIN HEALEY 3000 ENGINE (SHORT MOTOR WOULD HELP) FOR BANFF OR
DULUTH. 1 CAR HAS PROBLEMS THAT COULD PROVE TERMINAL....IN THE MEANTIME THEY
STRUGGLE ONWARDS
Vintageant Competitors
23 Lennox McNeely/James Walters . . .Packard Touring Sedan 1938 1
Richard Newman/Julie Simon . . . . . . . . .Citroen 2CV 1952 1 2h25m00
Francesco Ciriminna/Stelios Vartholomeos . Fiat M'cento 1948 1 5h11m00
Kelly Secrest/Bill Secrest . . . . . . Chrysler Airflow 1935 1 6h38m00
Janet Chisholm/Trevor Richards . Chevrolet Fangio Coupe 1940 1 11h23m00
Francois Chervaz/Shirin Azari . . Citroen 11B Traction 1953 1 12h55m00
William Balfour/Caroline Balfour . Talbot AV 105 Alpine 1933 1 14h42m00
Richard Ingham/Judy Ingham . . . . Bentley MX Park Ward 1939 1 20h33m00
Chris Dunkley/Jan Dunkley . . . . .Bentley Open Tourer 1935 1 23h36m00
Helmut Karbe/Terry Maxon . . . . . . .Bentley Speed Six 1929 1 46h29m00
Igor Kolodotschko/David Ellison. . . .Cadillac 62 Coupe 1940 1 69h59m00
Chris Claridge-Ware/Stephen Morley-Ham . . Lagonda M45 1934 1 78h03m00
Raymond Carr/David Dabbs . . . . . .Ford V8 Convertible 1939 1 98h50m00
Bill Borchert Larson/Terry Maxon . . . . . Silver Ghost 1913 1 Retired
Classic & Historic Competitors
Freddie Giles/Janet Giles . . . . . . . Hillman Hunter 1968 4 25m00
Yves Morault/Arlette Morault .Peugeot 404 Berline Coupe 1965 4 40m00
Nigel Broderick/Paula Broderick . .Mercedes-Benz 250SL 1967 5 56m00
Karl Busch/Sami Busch/Kaya Busch . . .Mercedes-Benz 190 1956 2 1h16m00
Edmund Holfeld/Justin McCarthy . . . . . . Ford Mustang 1965 5 1h21m00
Claude Picasso/Sylvie Vautier . .Mercedes 230SL Pagoda 1964 5 1h40m00
Dominicus Meeus/Johanna Meeus-Jonker Jaguar XK140 Coupe 1955 3 2h07m00
The Hon. Barry Weir/Ronald Brons . . Aston Martin DB2/4 1954 3 2h08m00
Rick Dyke-Price/Stuart Onyett . Austin Healey 3000 MkI 1959 5 3h10m00
Paul Rolph/Joanna Rolph . . . . . .Mercedes-Benz 230SL 1964 5 3h40m00
Jean Steinhauser/Paul Steinhauser Porsche 356 T5 Coupe 1964 3 3h50m00
David Hughes/Tony Sinclair . . . . . . .Rover 80 Saloon 1960 2 3h58m00
Han le Noble/Joop van Kesteren . . . Porsche 356C Coupe 1964 3 4h48m00
hillippa McLachlan/Christine Jones . . . . . Rover 80 1960 2 5h40m00
Kevin Clemens/Mark Rinkel . .Mercedes Benz 220S Ponton 1959 2 7h16m00
Peter Hunt/Ann Hunt . . . . . .Austin Healey 3000 MkII 1962 5 7h20m00
Ralph Jones/Dorothy Jones . . . . . . Aston Martin DB4 1961 5 14h24m00
Brian Rhatigan/Rachel Kiely. .Mercedes-Benz 220SE Coupe 1963 4 17h53m00
Tom Hayes/Michael Greenwood . . . .Chevrolet 210 Sedan 1955 2 19h53m00
Paul Bessade/Michel Magnin . . . . . . . Pontiac Chief' 1942 2 25h44m00
Xavier Beaumartin/Phillipe Rochat Studebaker Commander 1953 2 29h30m00
David Laing/Mary Laing . . . . . Aston Martin DB2 Coupe 1952 3 48h11m00
Roberto Chiodi/Maria Degli Esposti .Lancia Flavia Coupe 1964 5 54h38m00
Karsten Le Blanc/Andrew Powell . . . . . . Facel Vega 6 1964 5 57h18m00
Pat Brooks/Mary Brooks . . . Buick Model 59 Woody Wagon 1949 2 59h34m00
Thomas Noor/Maria Bouvier-Noor . . .Mercedes-Benz 250SE 1966 4 102h40m00
Joseph Capristano/Jose Pimentel . . . . Bentley R-Type 1953 2 143h16m00
Regards
John J Black
Waterloo Drivetrain Systems
http://www.waterloo-dtr.com
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 14:48:11 -0400
Subject: Re: Big Healey vs. Triumph TR6
ccruz@tribune.com wrote:
> > Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 20:28:04 -0400
> > From: Bill Holt <lbcholt@one.net>
> > Subject: Big Healey vs. Triumph TR6
>
> << Are there any listers who can OBJECTIVELY compare and contrast the
> pros and cons of the two cars, the TR6 and the big Healeys,
> particularly the 3000's, BJ7's and BJ8's? It is apparent that a very
> nice TR6 can be had for far less money than a similar big Healey,
> maybe up to $10,000 less. They both are 6 cylinder cars, both are
> head-turners (although I think the A-H is even more so), etc. I'm
> wondering what it is about big Healeys that makes them cost so much
> more than a TR6. >>
>
> Bill,
>
> I don't think it is possible to find objectivity on a list dedicated
> to Healey Enthusiasts, but I'm sure you'll find people who will try.
> The questions you need to answer is, "Do you want to be waved at?" or
> "Do you want to wave first?". ;-0
>
> Being in the former category here's my .02 cents. There's no
> comparison between the Big Healeys and the TR6. Don't get me wrong, I
> really, really like the TR6 and actually considering the purchase of
> one as a project car.
>
> You're correct in that a TR6 is a head-turner. Although a Healey will
> not only turn heads, but will actually stop people and force a
> double-take. As for the price difference, it's all in the numbers.
> TR6's were churned out long after the last Healey and I believe in
> vastly larger quantities. Therefore the laws of supply & demand kick
> in.
>
> Again both are great drives and unique in their own ways. Regardless
> of what you end up with, please avoid asking the list about Oil
> preferences, engine color and speeding tickets.
>
> Subjectively yours,
> Carlos Cruz
> '60 AH3KBN7
As a repairer of both TR6s and Healeys I can, I believe, objectively comment on
the relative reliability of the 2 cars.
Without any question the Healey is a much better built car. Many aspects of the
TR6 design contribute to is poorer reliability.
Some examples are :
The differential is prone to failure largely
because collapsible spacers are used on the pinion bearings (in the interest of
fast assembly).
The rear suspension trailing arms pull out of
the frame when rust becomes a factor resulting in the car running over one of
its rear wheels, which has the hand brake fully applied, and then rolling over.
The are no cam or rocker bearings in a TR6
(throw away items.)
and many more......
If you think that is bad don't get me started on Spitfires......
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From Brian Mix <brianmix at home.com>
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 12:24:08 -0700
Subject: Brake-shoe pad thickness?
Hi,
I've never seen a "new" set of break shoes for a Healey. How thick should the
pad surface be? My used ones look to be aprox. 5/16".
Brian
From "Ross Maylor" <obiedog at telusplanet.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 15:18:37 -0600
Subject: Side rods, ball ends
Is there a method for installing new side rods and ball ends? The ball pin
spins when you try to tightened the nut. C clamps? Vise grips? Something
that doesn't ruin the new rubber dust covers?
On the drum brake back plate, the steady post is shown, in my manual, as
having the nut inside the drum. This would indicate to me that the length of
the steady post is set before the drum goes on. If so how is it determined?
And the purpose of the felt bush is?
Thanks
Ross
BN6
From "Michael Lempert" <mdlempert at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 17:24:40 -0400
Subject: Fw: 3.54 differential
Well, the count is at 9 (including two for me). Only 91 more to go.
> In a message dated 6/20/00 8:39:12 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
> mdlempert@worldnet.att.net writes:
>
> <<
> Mark:
>
> I met someone recently who has a large inventory of Healey parts from
many
> years back when he was heavily involved with the cars. He did mention to
me
> that he had one non-overdrive gear set. I have not seen it, nor am I
aware
> of its condition. If you would like, I can make an offer on your
behalf.
>
> The 3.54 differential, as you probably know, is very rare and hard to
> find. I have seen some very large number prices. This motivated me a
> short while back to investigate having some manufactured as a small
venture.
> I received a quote for a 3.5 differential - the manufacturer thought a
42/12
> would be better than the original Healey 39/11 ratio. A minimum run of
100
> would be necessary.
>
> I did a little poking around for interest but didn't gain the confidence
I
> needed to commit to such a large number. However, should there be
enough
> interest, I could pursue this again. The price would be about $220 per
set
> plus shipping.
>
> Regards,
> Mike L.
> Bridgewater, NJ
> '56 BN2
> '59 BN7
> '60 BT7
> '60 Bugeye
> '70 E-Type
> '79 Midget
>
From "Richard E. Pratt" <prattri at email.msn.com>
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 18:22:47 -0400
Subject: RE: Side rods, ball ends
Ross,
The nut should spin on by hand. If there is a bad thread, you should clean
it up with a small file. Another way is to hit the nut with a small hammer
on each flat. then turn it on a little more hitting each flat. The nut act
as a dye nut and straightens the thread as you turn it on. This has worked
for me.
Richard Pratt
65 BJ8
Cincinnati, OH
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Ross Maylor
> Sent: Thursday, June 22, 2000 5:19 PM
> To: Healey List
> Subject: Side rods, ball ends
>
>
>
> Is there a method for installing new side rods and ball ends? The ball pin
> spins when you try to tightened the nut. C clamps? Vise grips? Something
> that doesn't ruin the new rubber dust covers?
>
> On the drum brake back plate, the steady post is shown, in my manual, as
> having the nut inside the drum. This would indicate to me that
> the length of
> the steady post is set before the drum goes on. If so how is it
> determined?
> And the purpose of the felt bush is?
>
> Thanks
> Ross
> BN6
>
>
>
>
From "Karlsson Magnus" <healey at telia.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 01:37:10 +0200
Subject: SV: Side rods, ball ends
If the nuts you are having problems with are nylocs, then try this; Get some
plain nuts of the same size and tighten them fully. Then you unscrew the plain
nuts and replace them with the nylocs. Now it will be no problems to tighten
the nylocs.
As far as I can recall the nut goes on outside of the brakeplate so that you
can adjust them with the shoes on. The felt bush is there to protect the steady
post and the brake shoe.
Regards
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
----- Original Message -----
From: Ross Maylor <obiedog@telusplanet.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 22, 2000 11:18 PM
Subject: Side rods, ball ends
>
> Is there a method for installing new side rods and ball ends? The ball pin
> spins when you try to tightened the nut. C clamps? Vise grips? Something
> that doesn't ruin the new rubber dust covers?
>
> On the drum brake back plate, the steady post is shown, in my manual, as
> having the nut inside the drum. This would indicate to me that the length of
> the steady post is set before the drum goes on. If so how is it determined?
> And the purpose of the felt bush is?
>
> Thanks
> Ross
> BN6
>
>
>
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 19:59:55 -0400
Subject: Tire repair problems??
I sure hope this isn't a sign of things to come, but my gorgeous car arrived
with the spare installed as one of the tires had gone flat. No problem sez
I as I proceed to the local gas station...
WRONG!! After checking three gas stations and one big tire distributor, I
find that nobody can repair a tire with a tube in it anymore! I can't
believe it.. Two of these clowns actually recommended trying a bicycle
shop.
Finally letting the fingers do the walking, I found an old tire store in
Fairfax that fixes "real" tires, but give me a break....
Lee
"She is beautiful and
she is sittin' in my driveway now!"
Tri-carb
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 19:09:08 -0500
Subject: RE: Side rods, ball ends
Hi Ross,
The steady posts are supposed to keep the brake shoes from tilting out of
square. Adjust the length of the post till the shoes look level, then
tighten the nut to lock the post in place. I think the felt bushes are to
prevent noise caused by the shoes moving back and forth but I can't recall
for sure. I added a drop of oil to the bushes to act as a lubricant.
Are you sure the nuts are on the inside? My BJ8 posts had nuts on the
outside of the plate. It would be really difficult to tighten them
otherwise.
When installing the nuts on the tapered pins that make up the shaft of the
tie rods, I found it best to give the other end a sharp whack with a plastic
hammer. This seemed to lock the taper in place enough so that I could
tighten the nut. I also used a light coat of anti-seize on the taper
before assembly.
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: Ross Maylor [mailto:obiedog@telusplanet.net]
Sent: Thursday, June 22, 2000 2:19 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: Side rods, ball ends
Is there a method for installing new side rods and ball ends? The ball pin
spins when you try to tightened the nut. C clamps? Vise grips? Something
that doesn't ruin the new rubber dust covers?
On the drum brake back plate, the steady post is shown, in my manual, as
having the nut inside the drum. This would indicate to me that the length of
the steady post is set before the drum goes on. If so how is it determined?
And the purpose of the felt bush is?
Thanks
Ross
BN6
From "Don Gschwind" <DGSCHWIND at prodigy.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 20:43:07 -0400
Subject: Re: Side rods, ball ends
Hi, Ross
I had a similar problem which I solved by washing the stud and
the tapered hole with naphtha to get ALL traces of grease off the
mating surfaces so they wouldn't slip. Once the nut started to
tighten, there was no more slippage. I suppose a clamp of some sort
may have been the next step, but it was not necessary. I hope that's
all you need. Good luck,
DON
BJ8 Pandora
----- Original Message -----
From: Ross Maylor <obiedog@telusplanet.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 22, 2000 5:18 PM
Subject: Side rods, ball ends
>
> Is there a method for installing new side rods and ball ends? The
ball pin
> spins when you try to tightened the nut. C clamps? Vise grips?
Something
> that doesn't ruin the new rubber dust covers?
>
> On the drum brake back plate, the steady post is shown, in my
manual, as
> having the nut inside the drum. This would indicate to me that the
length of
> the steady post is set before the drum goes on. If so how is it
determined?
> And the purpose of the felt bush is?
>
> Thanks
> Ross
> BN6
>
>
>
From "Don Gschwind" <dgschwind at prodigy.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 20:58:08 -0400
Subject: Radio Speakers
Hi, Listers
This subject has come up several times recently, and I was a
participant. I never found a decent substitute for my cracked speaker,
so I repaired it. I used model airplane tissue paper (has little or no
directional grain). First I coated the areas with cracks and adjacent
to a hole the size of a 1/2 dollar with about three to four coats of
very thin clear lacquer and let it dry. Next, I cut strips of paper
slightly wider than the cracks, slightly larger than the hole and
moistened themwith water by putting them between two sheets of moist
cloth to dampen them to allow them to form to the speaker shape. Next
I placed them one at a time over the cracks, and soaked them with the
thinned lacquer and they conformed to the speaker shape. The last step
was covering the hole, same technique, and I'm proud to say the radio
never sounded better! I'll tell you about durability in the future.
Good luck to those who try this. "Works for me!"
DON
BJ8 Pandora
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 21:43:57 -0400
Subject: Re: Side rods, ball ends
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> > [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Ross Maylor
> > Sent: Thursday, June 22, 2000 5:19 PM
> > To: Healey List
> > Subject: Side rods, ball ends
> >
> >
> >
> > Is there a method for installing new side rods and ball ends? The ball pin
> > spins when you try to tightened the nut. C clamps? Vise grips? Something
> > that doesn't ruin the new rubber dust covers?
> >
> > On the drum brake back plate, the steady post is shown, in my manual, as
> > having the nut inside the drum. This would indicate to me that
> > the length of
> > the steady post is set before the drum goes on. If so how is it
> > determined?
> > And the purpose of the felt bush is?
> >
> > Thanks
> > Ross
> > BN6
> >
> >
> >
> >
Hi Ross,
The tricks for installing the tie rod ends are as follows.
First, clean the taper pin and tapered hole thoroughly with solvent before you
start.
Second, if the nut is so tight on the thread that the ball spins as you try to
tighten the joint, add a pile of washers before you install the nut so that you
are pulling the taper up tight on the first couple of turns of the nut. Tighten
just enough to lock the taper in the hole then remove the nut and washers, refit
the nut.
The purpose of the steady post is to allow the brake shoe position to be
adjusted so that it meets the brake drum flat. This is achieved by adjusting the
height of the steady post so that the face of the shoe is parallel to the axle
shaft. It is actually not that difficult if you put a square across the machined
face on the end of the axle.
The felt bushes are to retain grease to lubricate the surface where it is
contacted by the steady post to prevent a squeek when the brakes are applied or
released.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
From Joseph Elmer <Joelmer at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 10:50:19 -0400
Subject: trafficator lever
Is the trafficator lever on the steering wheel supposed to return to
center after taking a turn? Mine stays in either the left or right
position. If so, is there any easy fix, like spraying a little silicon
lube someplace? Joe Elmer 1953 BN1.
From Joseph Elmer <Joelmer at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 10:58:06 -0400
Subject: speedometer cable length
Just sent my speedometr to MO-MA for rehab. According to Margaret
Lucas, several rehabs have come back because the owners installed new
drive cables at the same time. The new cables are slightly longer which
places a thrust on the gear that the cable tip plugs into. Has anyone
experienced this problem? How long is the cable supposed to be for a
BN1 (early)? Joe Elmer, 53BN1.
From "Rick Lees" <rlees at rideshare.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 11:16:25 -0400
Subject: RE: trafficator lever
On my BN4 it cancels after a turn
Rick Lees
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of Joseph Elmer
Sent: Friday, June 23, 2000 10:50 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: trafficator lever
Is the trafficator lever on the steering wheel supposed to return to
center after taking a turn? Mine stays in either the left or right
position. If so, is there any easy fix, like spraying a little silicon
lube someplace? Joe Elmer 1953 BN1.
From "Keith R. Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 11:33:11 -0400
Subject: Re: trafficator lever
Joseph Elmer wrote:
>
> Is the trafficator lever on the steering wheel supposed to return to
> center after taking a turn? Mine stays in either the left or right
> position. If so, is there any easy fix, like spraying a little silicon
> lube someplace? Joe Elmer 1953 BN1.
Joe,
Yes, the turn lever should return to center.
Nonworking traf are due to one of two things.
1 It is broken and must be removed and parts replaced.
2 More likely, it is gummed up with dried grease and crud from years of
existence. In the case of the latter, the traf can be pulled out a few
inches and a degreasing solvent and stiff toothbrush will do wonders.
Regreasing is then done and the traf reinstalled. I use Li grease.
Keith Pennell
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 11:35:30 -0400
Subject: Re: Brake-shoe pad thickness?
Brian Mix wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I've never seen a "new" set of break shoes for a Healey. How thick should the
> pad surface be? My used ones look to be aprox. 5/16".
>
> Brian
0.187"
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 11:54:52 -0400
Subject: Re: trafficator lever
Joseph Elmer wrote:
> Is the trafficator lever on the steering wheel supposed to return to
> center after taking a turn? Mine stays in either the left or right
> position. If so, is there any easy fix, like spraying a little silicon
> lube someplace? Joe Elmer 1953 BN1.
Hi Joe,
The trafficator return mechanism on the non adjustable BN1 switch is a
little different in construction from the later cars however the principle
of operation is the same.
When the lever is pushed to one side a spring loaded roller on the bottom
end of the lever arm pushes down on a spring loaded cancelling pin.
A cam which rotates when the steering wheel is turned pushes up on the bar
when the wheel is turned back toward centre and it is this action which
cancels the signals under the influence of a spring which acts directly on
the lever itself. (Bet that is as clear as mud)
The switch assembly was originally lubricated sparingly with some type of
gel grease which over the years hardens up. Some times a little WD40
sprayed into the slot where the lever protrudes from the switch will act as
a suitable laxative and get things moving again. If it doesn't be very
careful about pulling the switch out or apart. It is one of those jobs that
is easy when you know how and can be very expensive when you don't.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 11:53:31 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: trafficator lever
There are two spring and two detents in the head.
You might try silicone but more likely the mechanism needs looking at - if not
rebuilding. There is a "prong" that needs to be at the 12 o-clock position
when the wheels are straight ahead. If it is Not there will be no triggering
of the cancelling mechanism.
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
> Is the trafficator lever on the steering wheel supposed to return to
> center after taking a turn? Mine stays in either the left or right
> position. If so, is there any easy fix, like spraying a little silicon
> lube someplace? Joe Elmer 1953 BN1.
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 11:57:57 EDT
Subject: Re: Tire repair problems??
In a message dated 6/22/2000 19:05:13 Central Daylight Time,
lmairs@ix.netcom.com writes:
<< I sure hope this isn't a sign of things to come, but my gorgeous car
arrived
with the spare installed as one of the tires had gone flat. No problem sez
I as I proceed to the local gas station...
WRONG!! After checking three gas stations and one big tire distributor, I
find that nobody can repair a tire with a tube in it anymore! >>
Lee & Listers,
About a month ago I requested info to start a list of tire shops across the
USA that members had experieance with. I have had a few send in info, and I
thank them.
Again, if you have a tire shop in your area that you think does a good job on
wire wheel tire changes and repairs, please send it to me to add to the Tire
Shop List.
Thanks,
Don Lenschow
NTAHC
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 12:31:50 -0700
Subject: Re: Brake-shoe pad thickness?
Hi Brian,
Are you talking about the drum brake shoes or the disk brake pads?
The drum brake shoe linings should be about 3/16"(.187). Are you sure
yours measure 5/16"(.312)?
I had a local brake shop reline my shoes and they came back too thick.
They sent them back to have them arc'ed. Then they decided to find
thinner linings. Three weeks later they finally came back the right
size. Since then I found out that British Parts Northwest
http://www.bpnorthwest.com/ carries new brake shoes (not relined) that
they claim are the right size. At approx. $50 for the whole rear set it
would have been the way to go.
Cheers,
John Loftus
BJ7
Brian Mix wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> I've never seen a "new" set of break shoes for a Healey. How thick should the
> pad surface be? My used ones look to be aprox. 5/16".
>
> Brian
From Brian Mix <brianmix at home.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 14:22:01 -0700
Subject: Re: Brake-shoe pad thickness?
oooops. I meant 3/16's.
Thanks,
Brian
John Loftus wrote:
> Hi Brian,
>
> Are you talking about the drum brake shoes or the disk brake pads?
>
> The drum brake shoe linings should be about 3/16"(.187). Are you sure
> yours measure 5/16"(.312)?
>
> I had a local brake shop reline my shoes and they came back too thick.
> They sent them back to have them arc'ed. Then they decided to find
> thinner linings. Three weeks later they finally came back the right
> size. Since then I found out that British Parts Northwest
> http://www.bpnorthwest.com/ carries new brake shoes (not relined) that
> they claim are the right size. At approx. $50 for the whole rear set it
> would have been the way to go.
>
> Cheers,
> John Loftus
> BJ7
>
> Brian Mix wrote:
> >
> > Hi,
> >
> > I've never seen a "new" set of break shoes for a Healey. How thick should
>the
> > pad surface be? My used ones look to be aprox. 5/16".
> >
> > Brian
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 17:50:49 EDT
Subject: USA Tire Shops
I have been working on a list of tire shops in the USA that fellow listers
could use if they need tire work done on wire wheels, new tires, repairs,
etc., for their Healey. Especially if they are on a road trip or tour. There
is nothing worse than trying to find a shop in a strange city to fix a flat.
If you would just take a few minutes and send information about the shop you
use, I will add it to our list and when we have a good number across the
country it can be posted to our NTAHC web site.
Thanks to all that have sent info in already.
Don Lenschow
NTAHC
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 19:10:51 EDT
Subject: Re: Radio Speakers
About speaker cone repairs, Using lacquer or other hard materials is not good
solution in the long run as the lacquer hardens and becomes brittle. A good
solution is merely to apply soft non-setting type adhesive/sealer type
materials to the cracks. I use good ol' household silicone sealer. Work it in
good and let it alone. It stays flexible and holds together well.
The sound of the dry brittle edges of lacquer repair will be a louder buzzing
than the softer edges of the original tear. If the silicone repair were to
fail, it would still be relatively quiet.
Rick
San Diego
I play loud electric guitars and have glued many a torn speaker cone in my
day.
In a message dated 6/22/00 5:51:45 PM, dgschwind@prodigy.net writes:
<<
Hi, Listers
This subject has come up several times recently, and I was a
participant. I never found a decent substitute for my cracked speaker,
so I repaired it. I used model airplane tissue paper (has little or no
directional grain). First I coated the areas with cracks and adjacent
to a hole the size of a 1/2 dollar with about three to four coats of
very thin clear lacquer and let it dry. Next, I cut strips of paper
slightly wider than the cracks, slightly larger than the hole and
moistened themwith water by putting them between two sheets of moist
cloth to dampen them to allow them to form to the speaker shape. Next
I placed them one at a time over the cracks, and soaked them with the
thinned lacquer and they conformed to the speaker shape. The last step
was covering the hole, same technique, and I'm proud to say the radio
never sounded better! I'll tell you about durability in the future.
Good luck to those who try this. "Works for me!"
DON
BJ8 Pandora >>
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 20:07:13 EDT
Subject: Steering Column Lubrication???
Hi List,
The Owners Handbook for my AH 100-Six says on page 34 under 1000 miles
lubrication, "Steering Box: Lubricate the felt bush at the top of the
steering column with a few drops of engine oil. To gain access to the bush
there is a lubrication hole in the steering wheel hub." There are no
pictures showing where this is. I've looked all around the steering wheel
hub and cannot find a lubrication hole.
Can anyone help by giving me details on where to find this hole? Thanks.
John
100-Six Erika the Red
From "S.HUTCHINGS" <hutching at myna.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 20:15:23 -0400
Subject: Head & Manifolds
H i Everyone, First let me say thanks for the advice on the head gasket
installation, BTW Adnan,
was that Permatex copper head gasket sealant a spray?
Now let me pick your collective brains again....Does anyone know why I
shouldn't put the manifolds on
the head, prior to installation? It would definately be easier to torque
them up, but I'm worried about fouling something on the way down.
Thanks, Stephen, BJ8
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 17:43:47 -0700
Subject: Re: Overheating / Buyer Beware / Palo Alto Concours
Greg,
Your post was garbled . . . . did you say . . . .Sheep?
Terry Blubaugh
Greg Bankin wrote:
> Mine is definitely a she. No man could satisfy me like a blast in my BN4
> Greg Bankin
> gregbankin@primus.com.au
> Sunshine Coast
> Queensland
> Australia
>
> '58 BN4
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ray Feehan" <feehanr@cadvision.com>
> To: "P.M. Pollock" <pollpete@ix.netcom.com>; "Ian Nelson" <ian@Remedy.COM>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, 20 June 2000 14:31
> Subject: Re: Overheating / Buyer Beware / Palo Alto Concours
>
> >
> > Ah a man after my own heart. All healeys are hes not shes.
> > RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
> >
From cstinehelfer at bajamarine.com
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 21:10:22 -0400
Subject: Might be Healey related
This could possibly turn into something Healey related if I could figure it
out....can anyone explain to me how to paste a web page link into an e-mail
message?
Feeling kind of computer illiterate
Chris
From "S.HUTCHINGS" <hutching at myna.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 22:22:50 -0400
Subject: Re;Re; Head & Manifolds
Thanks again.....but Mike, how sure is pretty sure when it comes to
dropping the head on with carbs
in place. I've had them on and off a couple of times, in the car, and while
it is possible, those two inside bottom nuts are an absolute #@!%$ to get
on! If I could avoid that stage, it would be great.
Stephen, BJ8
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 22:44:04 -0400
Subject: The Leaking Gas Tank Blues
Traveled all over Northern Virginia today trying to find a good floor jack
to both change the tire and check out the leaking gas tank. Armed with a
way too expensive floor jack (collapses to 4" for those ultra low sports
cars - their words not mine) and some magic goo for fixing gas tanks, I
ended up yanking the tank out to find a this rust line of likely leaking
spots.
It looks like a new tank is required, thus ending my quest to make it to the
British Car Show in Bowie and finally meet some of my CAAHC friends appears
doomed. My friend, the Diesel Doctor, jokingly suggested using an outboard
motor tank in the interim. Hmmnnn. That just may do the job! A $20 eight
gallon tank ought to get me there and back. Anyway...
It was a bitch getting the old tank out. It had seemingly married itself to
both the rubber gasket displayed in the Moss Motors picture and some foam
insulation shot in during her restoration nine years ago. Any suggestions
for related maintenance while the tank is out? I plan to rinse the trunk
thoroughly with water, then dry it and paint the entire with a rustoleum
type paint. The PO had used some sort of funky undercoating compound that
is great at permanently making finger nails black.
Lee Mairs
Northern Virginia
"with a tankless BT7 in the driveway..."
From "Alan J. Toepfer" <ajtoepfe at flash.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 20:37:40 -0600
Subject: Re: <no subject>
My BT7 (HBT7l/1173) was built May 5, 1959, corresponding to about 100
cars/month if they were numbered in sequence.
Al Toepfer
----------
>From: M Brouillette <mbrouill@ix.netcom.com>
>To: Peter Brauen <pbrauen@telepak.net>
>Cc: Martin Johnson <MJohnson@cfworks.com>, Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re:
>Date: Tue, Jun 20, 2000, 10:05 AM
>
>
> These things didn't always go hand in hand, but my BT7 (HBT7L1281) was
> built June 3, 1959.
>
> Mike B
>
>
>
>
> At 09:58 AM 6/20/00 -0500, Peter Brauen wrote:
>
>>Hi Martin,
>> Probably your car was produced in April or May of '59 considering that
>>3000 production commenced in March '59 and roughly 500 cars per month were
>>produced. (Based on Original Austin-Healey which gives 2194 as produced in
>>July '59)----Peter
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Martin Johnson <MJohnson@cfworks.com>
>> To: 'healeys@autox.team.net' <healeys@autox.team.net>
>> Date: Monday, June 19, 2000 7:53 PM
>>
>>
>>
>> Hello Everyone:
>> I'm the excited new owner of HBN7L1039. It's a non-rusty project which
>> is surprisingly complete and original. It runs strong, but is somewhat
>> lumpy in the bodywork department. I'm going to send for the Heritage
>> Certificate, but can anyone make a wild guess when it was produced from
>> the car number? My plans are to undertake this in two phases: For the
>> immediate future, I want to get it running well, exorcise electrical
>> demons by spanking their butts with a new harness (cat 'o nine tales?),
>> and straighten the body. From there, I will go for cosmetics. I want
>> the car to be a reliable driver that looks nice and clean. Not a show
>> car, but not cutting any corners or compromising. I want to drive and
>> enjoy the car until the oil pressure gauge says I have to pull the
>> engine. I don't care about having to paint it twice, assuming it's
>> going to get scratched in the mechanical rebuild process in the future.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Martin Johnson
>> Santa Clarita, California
>
>
From "Andy King" <healey-100 at hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 20:08:14 -1000
Subject: Re: Brake-shoe pad thickness?
you mean when they are thinner than that toss them. Right?
Andy King
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@home.com>
To: "Brian Mix" <brianmix@home.com>; "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 23, 2000 5:35 AM
Subject: Re: Brake-shoe pad thickness?
>
> Brian Mix wrote:
>
> > Hi,
> >
> > I've never seen a "new" set of break shoes for a Healey. How thick
should the
> > pad surface be? My used ones look to be aprox. 5/16".
> >
> > Brian
>
> 0.187"
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
>
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 23:34:36 -0700
Subject: Re: Might be Healey related
In M.S. Internet Explorer you click on "File" then "Send" then "Link by
e-mail" (I personally like to send the "Link rather than the "Page", then
your browser won't automatically dial when the mail is opened). That will
open a new mail message window and all you need to do is put in the address
to whom it will be sent. If you are using Netscape perhaps someone else will
walk you through that browser....Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: <cstinehelfer@bajamarine.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 23, 2000 6:10 PM
Subject: Might be Healey related
>
> This could possibly turn into something Healey related if I could figure
it
> out....can anyone explain to me how to paste a web page link into an
e-mail
> message?
>
> Feeling kind of computer illiterate
> Chris
>
>
From Anders Roil <roil at sensewave.com>
Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2000 11:20:13 +0200
Subject: SV: Big Healey vs. Triumph TR6 - European input
Hello
My first sportscar was a TR6 and I owned it for 8 years before I bought the
Healey.
My search for a Healey started when I got my first kid - I wanted a open 2
+ 2 sportscar. The Healey is practically the only available car. My
disappointment was big when I realised that most of the Healeys could not
cope with the speed of the TR6. At least its my excuse for buying my
Sebring spec. Healey 100-6 with 3000 max bore - racecam - trippel Webers
etc. It does cope with the TR6'es and withstand much heavier beating
When it comes to TR6 is one major difference between the European model and
the American. The European model has petrol injection, witch gives a
massive torque from 1000 rpm and 150Hp on 5000 and most of them have got
OD's witch is important because the RED-line is on 5000 rpm. A standard
early European TR6 actually makes 100Km/h on second with overdrive, and is
one of the reasons its so fast. Later they removed the OD from second gear
due to warranty problems.
So much for my opinion
Best
Anders
http://home.sol.no/~anroil
From "Eyvind Larssen" <seel at online.no>
Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2000 13:02:07 +0200
Subject: SV: <no subject>
About 4-500 cars per month seems more like it.
Have no idea WHEN my car was given birth, but must have been in 1960 sometime.
HBT7L9761..if numbers where in sequence, its 8.000 cars later in about one year.
Now, if my math doesn't fail capitally, this should be 8000/500 = 16 mnths
later.
May might have been a month for the herostratically famous strikes back
when......
Eyvind Larssen 60BT7
> My BT7 (HBT7l/1173) was built May 5, 1959, corresponding to about 100
> cars/month if they were numbered in sequence.
>
> Al Toepfer
>
> >
> > These things didn't always go hand in hand, but my BT7 (HBT7L1281) was
> > built June 3, 1959.
> >
> > Mike B
>
From Martin Filardi <filardi at uconect.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2000 06:59:37 -0400
Subject: RE: Head & Manifolds
I would not do that. The exhaust is very heavy and it would tilt the head in
that direction, may damage the head gasket or the way it lies as you install
the head. To get even lie just install the head with nothing on it, that way
you would have even pressure on the block and head gasket. You might be able
to do it, and it might be OK. , but I would not take the risk. If you try it ,
tell us how it goes as far leaks 1000 mi later! You are right, it would be
easier to snug up the manifolds. If you had a few people to help you and steady
the thing as you torque it down I would think it would be possible with less
risk.
----------
From: S.HUTCHINGS
Sent: Friday, June 23, 2000 8:15 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Head & Manifolds
H i Everyone, First let me say thanks for the advice on the head gasket
installation, BTW Adnan,
was that Permatex copper head gasket sealant a spray?
Now let me pick your collective brains again....Does anyone know why I
shouldn't put the manifolds on
the head, prior to installation? It would definately be easier to torque
them up, but I'm worried about fouling something on the way down.
Thanks, Stephen, BJ8
From bn1 at flashcom.net
Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2000 04:31:34 -0700
Subject: Re: Might be Healey related
Neil Trelenberg wrote:
> In M.S. Internet Explorer you click on "File" then "Send" then "Link by
> e-mail" (I personally like to send the "Link rather than the "Page", then
> your browser won't automatically dial when the mail is opened). That will
> open a new mail message window and all you need to do is put in the address
> to whom it will be sent. If you are using Netscape perhaps someone else will
> walk you through that browser....Neil
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <cstinehelfer@bajamarine.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, June 23, 2000 6:10 PM
> Subject: Might be Healey related
>
> >
> > This could possibly turn into something Healey related if I could figure
> it
> > out....can anyone explain to me how to paste a web page link into an
> e-mail
> > message?
> >
> > Feeling kind of computer illiterate
> > Chris
For Netscape, here's the easiest way:
Go to the web site. Move the cursor to the "location" and click on it. That
will highlight it. Push Control & C together. That will put the web site
address in Notebook. Start your new message. When you want to insert the web
site address, put the cursor where you want it to be and press Control & V
together. This will give your readers an instant link and they won't have to
type out the address. Notebook will clear itself when you turn off the computer
or push Control & C for something new.
Happy Healeying!
Bill Barnett
BN1 #663
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at connect.comdek.net.au>
Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2000 20:09:24 +0800
Subject: Re: <no subject>
Mine was built 11-19 March. HBT7-L/112
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
----- Original Message -----
From: Alan J. Toepfer <ajtoepfe@flash.net>
To: M Brouillette <mbrouill@ix.netcom.com>; Peter Brauen
<pbrauen@telepak.net>
Cc: Martin Johnson <MJohnson@cfworks.com>; Healey List
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 23, 2000 10:37 AM
Subject: Re: <no subject>
>
> My BT7 (HBT7l/1173) was built May 5, 1959, corresponding to about 100
> cars/month if they were numbered in sequence.
>
> Al Toepfer
>
> ----------
> >From: M Brouillette <mbrouill@ix.netcom.com>
> >To: Peter Brauen <pbrauen@telepak.net>
> >Cc: Martin Johnson <MJohnson@cfworks.com>, Healey List
<healeys@autox.team.net>
> >Subject: Re:
> >Date: Tue, Jun 20, 2000, 10:05 AM
> >
>
> >
> > These things didn't always go hand in hand, but my BT7 (HBT7L1281) was
> > built June 3, 1959.
> >
> > Mike B
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > At 09:58 AM 6/20/00 -0500, Peter Brauen wrote:
> >
> >>Hi Martin,
> >> Probably your car was produced in April or May of '59 considering
that
> >>3000 production commenced in March '59 and roughly 500 cars per month
were
> >>produced. (Based on Original Austin-Healey which gives 2194 as produced
in
> >>July '59)----Peter
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: Martin Johnson <MJohnson@cfworks.com>
> >> To: 'healeys@autox.team.net' <healeys@autox.team.net>
> >> Date: Monday, June 19, 2000 7:53 PM
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Hello Everyone:
> >> I'm the excited new owner of HBN7L1039. It's a non-rusty project
which
> >> is surprisingly complete and original. It runs strong, but is
somewhat
> >> lumpy in the bodywork department. I'm going to send for the
Heritage
> >> Certificate, but can anyone make a wild guess when it was produced
from
> >> the car number? My plans are to undertake this in two phases: For
the
> >> immediate future, I want to get it running well, exorcise
electrical
> >> demons by spanking their butts with a new harness (cat 'o nine
tales?),
> >> and straighten the body. From there, I will go for cosmetics. I
want
> >> the car to be a reliable driver that looks nice and clean. Not a
show
> >> car, but not cutting any corners or compromising. I want to drive
and
> >> enjoy the car until the oil pressure gauge says I have to pull the
> >> engine. I don't care about having to paint it twice, assuming it's
> >> going to get scratched in the mechanical rebuild process in the
future.
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >> Martin Johnson
> >> Santa Clarita, California
> >
> >
>
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2000 08:21:31 -0600
Subject: to offset my previous gender bashing
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
Click below for webpage and mopeds:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
>
> A new two-year degree is being offered at the
> University that many of
> you should be interested in:
>
> Becoming a Real Man.
>
> That's right, in just six trimesters, you, too,
> can be a real man-as
> well as earn an MA degree (Male Arts). Please
> take a moment to look over
> the program outline.
>
> FIRST YEAR
>
> Autumn Schedule:
> MEN 101: Combating Stupidity
> MEN 102: You, Too, Can Do Housework
> MEN 103: PMS-Learn When to Keep Your Mouth Shut
> MEN 104: We Do Not Want Sleazy Underthings for
> Christmas
>
> Winter Schedule:
> MEN 110: Wonderful Laundry Techniques
> MEN 111: Understanding the Female Response to
> Getting in at 4a.m.
> MEN 112: Parenting: It Doesn't End with
> Conception
> EAT 100: Get a Life, Learn to Cook
> EAT 101: Get a Life, Learn to Cook II
> ECON 001A: What's Hers is Hers
>
> Spring Schedule:
> MEN 120: How NOT to Act Like a Buttface When
> You're Wrong
> MEN 121: Understanding Your Incompetence
> MEN 122: YOU, the Weaker Sex
> MEN 123: Reasons to Give Flowers
> ECON 001C: What Was Yours is Hers
>
> SECOND YEAR
>
> Autumn Schedule:
> SEX 101: You CAN Fall Asleep without It
> SEX 102: Morning Dilemma: If It's Awake, Take a
> Shower
> SEX 103: How to Stay Awake After Sex
> MEN 201: How to Put the Toilet Seat Down
> Elective (See Electives
> Below)
>
> Winter Schedule:
> MEN 210: The Remote Control: Overcoming Your
> Dependency
> MEN 211: How to Not Act Younger than Your
> Children
> MEN 212: You, Too, Can Be a Designated Driver
> MEN 213: Honest, You Don't Look Like Shemar
> Moore or Tom Cruise
> MEN 230A: Her Birthdays and Anniversaries Are
> Important 1
>
> Spring Schedule:
> MEN 220: Omitting %&*! from Your Vocabulary
> (Pass/Fail Only)
> MEN 221: Fluffing the Blanket After Farting Is
> Not Necessary
> MEN 222: Real Men Ask for Directions
> MEN 223: Thirty Minutes of Begging is NOT
> Considered Foreplay
> MEN 230B: Her Birthdays and Anniversaries Are
> Important 2
>
> Course Electives:
> EAT 101: Cooking with Tofu
> EAT 102: Utilization of Eating Utensils
> EAT 103: Burping and Belching Discreetly
> MEN 231: Mothers-in-law
> MEN 232: Appear to Be Listening
> MEN 233: Just Say "Yes, Dear"
> ECON 001C: Cheaper to Keep Her
>
> -------------------------------------------------
>
> All babies start out with the same number of raw cells
>
> which, over nine months, develop into a complete female
> baby.
>
> The problem occurs when cells are instructed by the little
>
> chromosomes to make a male baby instead. Because there are
>
> only so many cells to go around, the cell necessary to
> develop a
>
> male's reproductive organs have to come from cells already
>
> assigned elsewhere in the female.
>
>
> Recent tests have shown that these cells are removed from
> the
>
> communications center of the brain, migrate lower in the
> body
>
> and develop into male sexual organs. If you visualize a
> normal
>
> brain to be similar to a full deck of cards, this means that
> males
>
> are born a few cards short, so to speak, and some of their
>
> cards are in their shorts.
>
>
> This difference between the male and female brain manifests
>
> itself in various ways. Little girls will tend to play
> things like
>
> house or learn to read. Little boys, however, will tend to
> do things
>
> like placing a bucket over their heads and running into
> walls.
>
>
> Little girls will think about doing things before taking any
> action.
>
> Little boys will just punch or kick something and will look
>
> surprised if someone asks them why they just punched their
>
> little brother who was half asleep and looking the other
> way.
>
>
> This basic cognitive difference continues to grow until
> puberty,
>
> when the hormones kick into action and the trouble really
> begins.
>
> After puberty, not only the size of the male and female
> brains
>
> differ, but the center of thought also differs. Women think
> with
>
> their heads. Male thoughts often originate lower in their
> bodies
>
> where their ex-brain cells reside.
>
>
> Of course, the size of this problem varies from man to man.
> In
>
> some men only a small number of brain cells migrate and they
>
> are left with nearly full mental capacity but they tend to
> be rather
>
> dull, sexually speaking. Such men are known in medical terms
>
> as "Engineers."
>
>
> Other men suffer larger brain cell relocation. These men are
>
> medically referred to as "Pilots."
>
>
> A small number of men suffer massive brain cell migration to
>
> their groins.
>
>
> These men are usually referred to as....."Mr. President."
>
>
>
>
>
>
From "Mike Goode" <mlgoode at msn.com>
Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2000 08:37:34 -0700
Subject: Emission testing thanks
Listers:
I just returned from the DMV...I got my tags and I got it registered
as a '66! Now I don't have to do the emission testing thing every
year for the rest of its life.
Thanks to everyone for the suggestions on how to fight the bureaucracy
and how to get my BJ8 through emission testing. Some really great
ideas for those who may have to face the CO and hydrocarbon monster in
their state.
Up and running in Arizona...
Mike Goode
'66 BJ8/40462
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2000 15:11:45 -0400
Subject: British Motor Industry Heritage Trust
Will somebody please send me the website URL or email address of the group
that tells you your car's parentage for about $40 issuing a nice
certificate?
Lee
From "Ross Maylor" <obiedog at telusplanet.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2000 13:56:40 -0600
Subject: Re: Big Healey vs. Triumph TR6
Around this house I own the Healey and my wife owns the TR6. Therefore the
TR6 is a girls car!! :-)
Ross
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2000 16:52:22 EDT
Subject: Re: Big Healey vs. Triumph TR6
In a message dated 06/24/2000 3:04:13 PM Central Daylight Time,
obiedog@telusplanet.net writes:
<< Around this house I own the Healey and my wife owns the TR6. Therefore the
TR6 is a girls car!! :-)
>>
And named a "he", right??
Cheers..........
Hortense THE Healey ('63 BJ-7)
From Brian Mix <brianmix at home.com>
Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2000 15:59:04 -0700
Subject: Service tool 18G 82 and Hub removal
Hello,
So if I do indeed have to remove the rear hubs to get the oil out of my breaks,
can I use a big gear puller or is there a source for this tool?
AND when it's time to press the new bearing in how do you do it on the car? Is
this a pipe and hammer thing?
Brian Mix
'55 AH-100 LeMans
http://www.mixed-media.net/100Lemans/
Vice-President Austin Healey Club of San Diego http://www.sdhealey.org/
From Bob Haskell <bhaskell at iquest.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2000 18:42:40 -0500
Subject: Gearbox Release Bearing ID
Have several of the graphite throwout bearings, two styles. The
Borg&Beck part numbers appear to be 41224 and 40416. The 41224 is
taller than 40416 (its pivot is farther away from the pressure plate).
Would some one let me know what application these are for? I'm guessing
that one's for the BN4 thru 29F/H4878, and the other's for 29F/H4879 and
after.
Thanks,
Bob Haskell
'60 AH BT-7 MkI
'64 Mini Cooper S RHD
'80 MGB LE
bhaskell@iquest.net
SOL Healey (URL http://www.team.net/www/healey) web apprentice
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 07:14:51 EDT
Subject: This should insult someone!
In the current issue of the Austin-Healey Carolina's newsletter was the
following:
Seen on a T-shirt
Heaven is where the:
Police are British
Lovers are French
Cooks are Italian
Mechanics are German
And it's all organized by the Swiss
Hell is where the:
Cooks are British
Mechanics are French
Lovers are Swiss
Police are German
And it's all organized by the Italians
From Jaral48462 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 08:55:42 EDT
Subject: Re: British Motor Industry Heritage Trust
The British Motor Industry Heritage Trust offers a service that will balidate
the serial number that you provide to them and will supply you with the date
of production and body and trim color information from production reports for
Austin Healeys (except 100S) produced from 1953 to 1971. The report is an
attractive certificate suitable for framing.
Send you car make, model, year and chassis and/or body number along with
$40.00 to:
Mr. Anders Clausage, Archivist
The British Motor Industry Heritage Trust
Banbury Road, Gaydon
Warwick, England CV35 0BJ
Their Web Site Hyperlink is: <A
HREF="http://home1.gte.net/spitlist/BMIHT.htm";>BMIHT Page</A>
Their URL is: http://home1.gte.net/spitlist/BMIHT.htm
Hope this help.
Ron
From "Dr. C Rubino" <ruvino at recorder.ca>
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 10:38:19 -0400
Subject:
Hey you guys and gals. Did you read Mike Lempert's message about possibly
producting new 3.5 differentials.
Get on the wagon.
I installed a 3.54 in my 100/6 (BJ-8 powered) a few years ago and you
wouldn't belief the difference. Lots of torque at low reves and cruising
beautifully at very low revs with overdrive. Glorious for anyone who loves
to take to the open road for a good trip.
In my case it was a used differential and has a bit of a whine to it.
Someday its going to give up the ghost and I am going to have to go on
another 10 year search for another "old" one.
So give it some thought because I would like to have a new one hanging
around. Call Mike at mlempert@worldnet.att.net. He needs enough orders for
the production run.
And yes I do have an interest because if he can't get enough people for the
manufacturing then I can't get my hands on a new one.
Carl
BN-4 (Longbridge-1957-powered by BJ-8)
From Peter Brauen <pbrauen at telepak.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 10:47:27 -0500
Subject: Re: <no subject>
Hello all,
The original 500 units figure I quoted was only an approximate. However,
considering the first 3000 was #101 in March '59, it stands to reason that
#112 would have been built soon thereafter, and, by my maths, #1173 would
have been produced around two months later, at 500 units per month (not
100), but that does not explain how #1281 was produced a whole month later.
If you take the total number of 3000s produced divide by nine years from
first to last and by twelve months per year you get almost exactly 400 units
per month, but this includes a period when production was tapering down. So
I stand by the original estimate of 500/month, particularly when production
was in full swing. I'm sure this number varied depending on a large number
of factors, including, but not limited to: Outside suppliers; Production
difficulties; Weather; Demand; Shipping schedule; Tea breaks; Labour
relations; Even the disposition of the workers! Considering that cars were
built in batches, frequently out of sequence, and over a period of days to
months, the only reliable method of determining the build dates for your
particular car is to get your Heritage certificate. Does anyone know how
many days per month, on average, were worked? It would be neat to know how
many brand new Healeys came out those doors every day! (Around 20?).
Although I suspect the number varied from none to fifty ;-)---Peter (BMC
Restorations)
-----Original Message-----
From: John Rowe <jarowe@connect.comdek.net.au>
To: Alan J. Toepfer <ajtoepfe@flash.net>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Saturday, June 24, 2000 7:55 AM
Subject: Re: <no subject>
Mine was built 11-19 March. HBT7-L/112
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
----- Original Message -----
From: Alan J. Toepfer <ajtoepfe@flash.net>
To: M Brouillette <mbrouill@ix.netcom.com>; Peter Brauen
<pbrauen@telepak.net>
Cc: Martin Johnson <MJohnson@cfworks.com>; Healey List
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 23, 2000 10:37 AM
Subject: Re: <no subject>
>
> My BT7 (HBT7l/1173) was built May 5, 1959, corresponding to about 100
> cars/month if they were numbered in sequence.
>
> Al Toepfer
>
> ----------
> >From: M Brouillette <mbrouill@ix.netcom.com>
> >To: Peter Brauen <pbrauen@telepak.net>
> >Cc: Martin Johnson <MJohnson@cfworks.com>, Healey List
<healeys@autox.team.net>
> >Subject: Re:
> >Date: Tue, Jun 20, 2000, 10:05 AM
> >
>
> >
> > These things didn't always go hand in hand, but my BT7 (HBT7L1281)
was
> > built June 3, 1959.
> >
> > Mike B
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > At 09:58 AM 6/20/00 -0500, Peter Brauen wrote:
> >
> >>Hi Martin,
> >> Probably your car was produced in April or May of '59
considering
that
> >>3000 production commenced in March '59 and roughly 500 cars per
month
were
> >>produced. (Based on Original Austin-Healey which gives 2194 as
produced
in
> >>July '59)----Peter
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: Martin Johnson <MJohnson@cfworks.com>
> >> To: 'healeys@autox.team.net' <healeys@autox.team.net>
> >> Date: Monday, June 19, 2000 7:53 PM
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Hello Everyone:
> >> I'm the excited new owner of HBN7L1039. It's a non-rusty
project
which
> >> is surprisingly complete and original. It runs strong, but is
somewhat
> >> lumpy in the bodywork department. I'm going to send for the
Heritage
> >> Certificate, but can anyone make a wild guess when it was
produced
from
> >> the car number? My plans are to undertake this in two phases:
For
the
> >> immediate future, I want to get it running well, exorcise
electrical
> >> demons by spanking their butts with a new harness (cat 'o nine
tales?),
> >> and straighten the body. From there, I will go for cosmetics.
I
want
> >> the car to be a reliable driver that looks nice and clean. Not
a
show
> >> car, but not cutting any corners or compromising. I want to
drive
and
> >> enjoy the car until the oil pressure gauge says I have to pull
the
> >> engine. I don't care about having to paint it twice, assuming
it's
> >> going to get scratched in the mechanical rebuild process in the
future.
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >> Martin Johnson
> >> Santa Clarita, California
> >
> >
>
From hm.heim at t-online.de (Helga & Martin Heim)
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 19:46:28 +0200
Subject: (Not Healey related) 24 hours race at the Nuerburgring Nordschleife
Hi all,
to those who might be race interested. Today afternoon the 24 hours race at
the famous Nürburgring Nordschleife ended with the winning of a Porsche 996
GT3 R. Second a Chrysler Viper GTR-S, 3-5 place Porsches, 6-9 BMW M3s.
The Porsche was factory prepared and won without any technical problems.
http://www.24h-rennen.de/3-frameset.htm are the results. (Click on
Berichterstattung 'til you get the list of events etc.) 210 cars
participated in the race.
Even some Caterhams, Minis and other 'regular' cars competed. Watched the
race on TV was not there.
Best regards
Martin
From "Karlsson Magnus" <healey at telia.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 20:48:05 +0200
Subject: SV: Service tool 18G 82 and Hub removal
Brian,
You can use the brake drum to remove the hub. Turn it the other way around over
the hub screws and put on the nuts, leaving a large amount of movement between
drum and hub. Then you pull repeatedly on the drum with your hands. This will
get the hubs off.
To mount the bearings onto the axle use a piece of tubing large enogh to go
over the axle ends but not larger than the inner bearing race and knock with a
hammer on the tubing.
Magnus karlsson
SWEDEN
----- Original Message -----
From: Brian Mix <brianmix@home.com>
To: <Healeyguy@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, June 25, 2000 12:59 AM
Subject: Service tool 18G 82 and Hub removal
>
> Hello,
>
> So if I do indeed have to remove the rear hubs to get the oil out of my
>breaks, can I use a big gear puller or is there a source for this tool?
>
> AND when it's time to press the new bearing in how do you do it on the car?
>Is this a pipe and hammer thing?
>
>
> Brian Mix
> '55 AH-100 LeMans
> http://www.mixed-media.net/100Lemans/
>
> Vice-President Austin Healey Club of San Diego http://www.sdhealey.org/
>
From "John Sims" <J_L_Sims at email.msn.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 13:05:36 -0700
Subject: Temperature guage
I just noticed that the capillary tube connecting the temperature probe at
the radiator to the temperature gauge came loose and was rubbing against the
generator right at the generator fan. The metal winding on this assembly is
broken. Could this give me in correct temperature readings and can this be
replaced with out buying a complete gauge set as is shown in the catalogues?
John Sims, BN6
Las Vegas
From "John Macartney" <jonmac at ndirect.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 21:14:40 +0100
Subject: Re: CLUBS - where are they?
THE HERITAGE MOTOR CENTRE
BANBURY ROAD
GAYDON
NR. WARWICK
ENGLAND CV35 0BJ
June 25, 2000
Dear Enthusiast
This brief post is to express my sincere thanks to the many people around the
world who
responded to my post on June 20 for the location and identity of British marque
clubs.
The details you provided are most gratefully received by Heritage Motor Centre
staff.
Additionally, you may be assured the data will not be used for any purpose in
the
classic/collectible car movement beyond enabling the Centre to contact you as
the
opportunity may arise with information that we hope you may find of interest or
use.
>From time to time, the original message will be resubmitted to these lists to
>trawl
further responses and I will greatly appreciate your forebearance as and when
they appear.
The purpose is purely to disseminate information to organisations we believe
would like to
receive it.
Yours sincerely
John Macartney
Corporate Services - Clubs and Group Visits
THE HERITAGE MOTOR CENTRE - GAYDON
http://www.heritage.org.uk
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 17:30:08 -0400
Subject: weber carb rebuild kits
Hello,
Can anybody help me with a supplier for rebuild and parts supply
for weber carbs .TIA
Carroll
From l-dkirby <l-dkirby at home.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 14:37:28 -0700
Subject: heater hoses
I am trying to install new heater hoses on my BJ8, a couple of
questions. #1 does the right hand hose go on top of the demister hose or
underneath? #2 should I loop the heater hoses behind dash? Len 35624
From Mark Fawcett <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 16:46:15 -0700
Subject: Re: <no subject>
My BT7 # 862 was built Apr. 22, 1959. What day in March was #101 built?
Mark Fawcett
Peter Brauen wrote:
> Hello all,
> The original 500 units figure I quoted was only an approximate. However,
> considering the first 3000 was #101 in March '59, it stands to reason that
> #112 would have been built soon thereafter, and, by my maths, #1173 would
> have been produced around two months later, at 500 units per month (not
> 100), but that does not explain how #1281 was produced a whole month later.
> If you take the total number of 3000s produced divide by nine years from
> first to last and by twelve months per year you get almost exactly 400 units
> per month, but this includes a period when production was tapering down. So
> I stand by the original estimate of 500/month, particularly when production
> was in full swing. I'm sure this number varied depending on a large number
> of factors, including, but not limited to: Outside suppliers; Production
> difficulties; Weather; Demand; Shipping schedule; Tea breaks; Labour
> relations; Even the disposition of the workers! Considering that cars were
> built in batches, frequently out of sequence, and over a period of days to
> months, the only reliable method of determining the build dates for your
> particular car is to get your Heritage certificate. Does anyone know how
> many days per month, on average, were worked? It would be neat to know how
> many brand new Healeys came out those doors every day! (Around 20?).
> Although I suspect the number varied from none to fifty ;-)---Peter (BMC
> Restorations)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Rowe <jarowe@connect.comdek.net.au>
> To: Alan J. Toepfer <ajtoepfe@flash.net>
> Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Saturday, June 24, 2000 7:55 AM
> Subject: Re: <no subject>
>
> Mine was built 11-19 March. HBT7-L/112
>
> Regards
> John Rowe
> Perth
> Western Australia
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Alan J. Toepfer <ajtoepfe@flash.net>
> To: M Brouillette <mbrouill@ix.netcom.com>; Peter Brauen
> <pbrauen@telepak.net>
> Cc: Martin Johnson <MJohnson@cfworks.com>; Healey List
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, June 23, 2000 10:37 AM
> Subject: Re: <no subject>
>
> >
> > My BT7 (HBT7l/1173) was built May 5, 1959, corresponding to about 100
> > cars/month if they were numbered in sequence.
> >
> > Al Toepfer
> >
> > ----------
> > >From: M Brouillette <mbrouill@ix.netcom.com>
> > >To: Peter Brauen <pbrauen@telepak.net>
> > >Cc: Martin Johnson <MJohnson@cfworks.com>, Healey List
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > >Subject: Re:
> > >Date: Tue, Jun 20, 2000, 10:05 AM
> > >
> >
> > >
> > > These things didn't always go hand in hand, but my BT7 (HBT7L1281)
> was
> > > built June 3, 1959.
> > >
> > > Mike B
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > At 09:58 AM 6/20/00 -0500, Peter Brauen wrote:
> > >
> > >>Hi Martin,
> > >> Probably your car was produced in April or May of '59
> considering
> that
> > >>3000 production commenced in March '59 and roughly 500 cars per
> month
> were
> > >>produced. (Based on Original Austin-Healey which gives 2194 as
> produced
> in
> > >>July '59)----Peter
> > >> -----Original Message-----
> > >> From: Martin Johnson <MJohnson@cfworks.com>
> > >> To: 'healeys@autox.team.net' <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > >> Date: Monday, June 19, 2000 7:53 PM
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> Hello Everyone:
> > >> I'm the excited new owner of HBN7L1039. It's a non-rusty
> project
> which
> > >> is surprisingly complete and original. It runs strong, but is
> somewhat
> > >> lumpy in the bodywork department. I'm going to send for the
> Heritage
> > >> Certificate, but can anyone make a wild guess when it was
> produced
> from
> > >> the car number? My plans are to undertake this in two phases:
> For
> the
> > >> immediate future, I want to get it running well, exorcise
> electrical
> > >> demons by spanking their butts with a new harness (cat 'o nine
> tales?),
> > >> and straighten the body. From there, I will go for cosmetics.
> I
> want
> > >> the car to be a reliable driver that looks nice and clean. Not
> a
> show
> > >> car, but not cutting any corners or compromising. I want to
> drive
> and
> > >> enjoy the car until the oil pressure gauge says I have to pull
> the
> > >> engine. I don't care about having to paint it twice, assuming
> it's
> > >> going to get scratched in the mechanical rebuild process in the
> future.
> > >>
> > >> Thanks,
> > >> Martin Johnson
> > >> Santa Clarita, California
> > >
> > >
> >
From "Ron Schonscheck" <schonny at y2consult.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 17:49:56 -0600
Subject: Re: weber carb rebuild kits
A good source that I have used is: Pierce Manifolds
321 Kisimura Drive
Gilroy, CA 95020
Phone 408 842 6667
-
Good Luck
---- Original Message -----
From: bjcap <bjcap@frontiernet.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, June 25, 2000 3:30 PM
Subject: weber carb rebuild kits
>
> Hello,
> Can anybody help me with a supplier for rebuild and parts supply
> for weber carbs .TIA
> Carroll
>
>
From Gene Schaeffer <gene356 at flash.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 19:40:38 -0500
Subject: Re: weber carb rebuild kits
Carroll:
The following number is toll free and Sandy can get you any webber part
you need.
Call 1 877 349-3237
Gene
Austin, Tx.
1967 BJ8 one owner for sale.
From Healey3000MKII at aol.com
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 20:51:54 EDT
Subject: Movie-Healeys sited (Liberty Heights)
I just watched the movie "Liberty Heights"................spotted 2 Healeys,
100-4s, one blue/white,........the other red with what looked like a tan top
, 2nd was hard to see , 1st had the "Smashing pumpkin"role ,and finally
crashed through a wooden wall or door.
Do either of these belong to anyone on the list?
They really would not subject a Healey to damage ? ............Would they?
Jim (BT7)
From "David R. Moulton" <dmoulton at bouldernews.infi.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 18:53:42 -0600
Subject: Wanted to buy... Master Cylinder
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--------------F1FE6465A1CD20C60EF3F834
Does anyone on the list have a late model MG Midget dual cylinder master
cylinder that they want to part with - any condition will work for me...
Please contact me directly... THANKS
David Moulton
Boulder, Colorado
--------------F1FE6465A1CD20C60EF3F834
name="dmoulton.vcf"
Content-Description: Card for David R. Moulton
Content-Disposition: attachment;
filename="dmoulton.vcf"
begin:vcard
n:Moulton;David R.
tel;pager:(303) 540-6878
tel;fax:(303) 543-8553
tel;home:(303) 543-8553
tel;work:(303) 494-5575
x-mozilla-html:FALSE
adr:;;;;;;
version:2.1
email;internet:dmoulton@usa.net
end:vcard
--------------F1FE6465A1CD20C60EF3F834--
From "R. Markl/B. Council" <rmarkl at bellsouth.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 20:04:55 -0500
Subject: Re: Help on getting my car finished up.
Danny's email is rustybottm@bigplanet.com
Rudi Markl, 100M
Earle Knobloch wrote:
>
> Joe,
>
> I also have my BJ-8 at Phil Babcock's Dyno Shop for body work and some
> assembly... also very happy with the work
>
> > 2) I am told that the only way to get new kickpanels for the interior is to
> > buy the door panels too.
>
> > Several years ago I talked with a fellow who had an inventory of used Healey
> > interiors and assorted other parts
>
> Dan Rapley
> Bethel, CT
> 203-778-2601
> 203-778-4601 FAX
>
> I never used his services but maybe he can help you... usual disclaimers..
>
> I live in Estero... 947-9575... call if I can help
>
> Earle Knobloch
>
> > .
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 21:15:23 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: weber carb rebuild kits
Try
DMD Ltd.
Fremont CA
415-745-7862
That phone # is about six years old but it's worth a try.
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
> Hello,
> Can anybody help me with a supplier for rebuild and parts supply
> for weber carbs .TIA
> Carroll
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From "John A. Vrugtman" <javrugtman at widomaker.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 21:47:27 -0400
Subject: Re: 3.54 rear
What happened to the effort advertised in "The Mark" for producing a run of
3.54s at $750 each. That's much less than Mike's price, but I thought it was
for a smaller batch. bytw, I understand after one of these is produced one has
to have it set up on your supplied differential assembly by someone who can do
that job for another fee. Anyone know how much this is?
John
Williamsburg, VA
BJ8s
"Dr. C Rubino" wrote:
> Hey you guys and gals. Did you read Mike Lempert's message about possibly
> producting new 3.5 differentials.
>
> Get on the wagon.
>
> I installed a 3.54 in my 100/6 (BJ-8 powered) a few years ago and you
> wouldn't belief the difference. Lots of torque at low reves and cruising
> beautifully at very low revs with overdrive. Glorious for anyone who loves
> to take to the open road for a good trip.
>
> In my case it was a used differential and has a bit of a whine to it.
> Someday its going to give up the ghost and I am going to have to go on
> another 10 year search for another "old" one.
>
> So give it some thought because I would like to have a new one hanging
> around. Call Mike at mlempert@worldnet.att.net. He needs enough orders for
> the production run.
>
> And yes I do have an interest because if he can't get enough people for the
> manufacturing then I can't get my hands on a new one.
>
> Carl
> BN-4 (Longbridge-1957-powered by BJ-8)
From Alan at roverworks.com (Alan Simpson)
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 19:17:52 -0700
Subject: MK11, 3000 body parts
Hello. This is my first posting here. I am starting to plan and amass parts
to restore my tri-carb this fall. Until then I can be found driving it
around the sunny Okanagan! I would like to ask the list about sheet metal
parts, who makes the best? What is fit like. My car is very well preserved
but I might replace the floor on one side so I imagine I will be into the
sills too. Also, which books would be recommended to assist in maintaining
"correct" detail. Thank You, Alan
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 22:24:54 -0400
Subject: Re: Brake-shoe pad thickness?
Andy King wrote:
> you mean when they are thinner than that toss them. Right?
> Andy King
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@home.com>
> To: "Brian Mix" <brianmix@home.com>; "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, June 23, 2000 5:35 AM
> Subject: Re: Brake-shoe pad thickness?
>
> >
> > Brian Mix wrote:
> >
> > > Hi,
> > >
> > > I've never seen a "new" set of break shoes for a Healey. How thick
> should the
> > > pad surface be? My used ones look to be aprox. 5/16".
> > >
> > > Brian
> >
> > 0.187"
> > --
> > Regards,
> >
> > Mike Salter
> > http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> > >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> >
> >
We have brake shoes relined in lots of 40 to sell on an exchange basis. We have
found that if the lining material that is fitted is thicker thatn 1/16"
(0.1875") and original un machined drum will not go over the new shoes.
Incidently in all the years I have been repairing Healeys I have only seen a
very few completely worn out sets of rear shoes. We usually change them because
they are oil or brake fluid soaked, or the linings have started to come away
from the shoe.
Brake pads (front) are a different story.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 22:28:31 -0400
Subject: Re: Brake-shoe pad thickness?(Ignore previous)
Krazy Kiwi wrote:
> Andy King wrote:
>
> > you mean when they are thinner than that toss them. Right?
> > Andy King
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@home.com>
> > To: "Brian Mix" <brianmix@home.com>; "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Friday, June 23, 2000 5:35 AM
> > Subject: Re: Brake-shoe pad thickness?
> >
> > >
> > > Brian Mix wrote:
> > >
> > > > Hi,
> > > >
> > > > I've never seen a "new" set of break shoes for a Healey. How thick
> > should the
> > > > pad surface be? My used ones look to be aprox. 5/16".
> > > >
> > > > Brian
> > >
> > > 0.187"
> > > --
> > > Regards,
> > >
> > > Mike Salter
> > > http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> > > >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> > >
> > >
>
> We have brake shoes relined in lots of 40 to sell on an exchange basis. We
>have
> found that if the lining material that is fitted is thicker thatn 3/16"
> (0.1875") and original un machined drum will not go over the new shoes.
> Incidently in all the years I have been repairing Healeys I have only seen a
> very few completely worn out sets of rear shoes. We usually change them
>because
> they are oil or brake fluid soaked, or the linings have started to come away
> from the shoe.
> Brake pads (front) are a different story.
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 22:29:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Brake-shoe pad thickness?(Ignore previous)
Krazy Kiwi wrote:
> Andy King wrote:
>
> > you mean when they are thinner than that toss them. Right?
> > Andy King
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@home.com>
> > To: "Brian Mix" <brianmix@home.com>; "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Friday, June 23, 2000 5:35 AM
> > Subject: Re: Brake-shoe pad thickness?
> >
> > >
> > > Brian Mix wrote:
> > >
> > > > Hi,
> > > >
> > > > I've never seen a "new" set of break shoes for a Healey. How thick
> > should the
> > > > pad surface be? My used ones look to be aprox. 5/16".
> > > >
> > > > Brian
> > >
> > > 0.187"
> > > --
> > > Regards,
> > >
> > > Mike Salter
> > > http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> > > >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> > >
> > >
>
> We have brake shoes relined in lots of 40 to sell on an exchange basis. We
>have
> found that if the lining material that is fitted is thicker than 3/16"
> (0.1875") and original unmachined drum will not go over the new shoes.
> Incidently in all the years I have been repairing Healeys I have only seen a
> very few completely worn out sets of rear shoes. We usually change them
>because
> they are oil or brake fluid soaked, or the linings have started to come away
> from the shoe.
> Brake pads (front) are a different story.
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
From "Jim Lesher" <ha6 at hotmail.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 20:21:20 PDT
Subject: Le Mans Steel Face Cylinder Head Gasket wanted
I am looking for the LeMans Steel Face Cylinder Head Gasket austin part #
7H.1726 as listed in the Special Equipment and Tuning Instructions booklet.
Does anyone know where one can be found?
The standard head gasket does not fit my replacement head that I located.
The steel gasket should get the job done.
Thanks in advance for the help
Jim Lesher
BN1
BN4
________________________________________________________________________
From Mr Finespanner <mrfinespanner at blazenet.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 23:47:31 -0700
Subject: Re: Triple 2in SUs
Simon,
I have triple 2" SU's on my car - the rear carb will interfere with the
steering column unless you move the engine out of the way. Obviously,
the triple 2" carbs have 50% more area than the two 2" carbs which gives
the triple 2" a tremendous advantage IF you have major engine work done
that can support the increased air/fuel mixture.
If you want to enjoy the car on the road, the triple 1.75" SU set-up is
ideal. By the way, the prototype tri-carb cars had triple 1.75" SU's
instead of the 1.5" SU's that they put on the production models. My
recollection is that the triple 1.75" cars would have embarrassed BMC's
own XKE Jaguar, so the production Healey's had to revert back to the
1.5" SU's.
The stock Mk II manifolds can be bored out to 1.75", but the 2" diameter
will break out into the bolt mounting holes. I welded the holes solid
before boring the 2" diameter.
Neil was correct about the linkage - much modification is required. I
bought linkages from several Healeys and modified to suit. Neil was
also correct about using more petrol. Depending on how I drive, my gas
mileage ranges from 6 to 15mpg. However, the size of the smile is
inversely proportional to the gas mileage.
Del Border
Tri-Carb OO
Simon Lachlan wrote:
> There was thread on this topic once. It came to no
> conclusions that I can recall.
>
> I have discovered a Jaguar tuning & resto place nr.
> me that has a load of 2in SUs. They'll practically give
> them away. Which has got me thinking.......
>
> Will these fit on the standard MkII BT7 manifolds?
> Will the linkage need to be 100% replaced or just modified?
> Will this setup use a lot more petrol?
> And, most importantly, will I see any improvement?
>
> The car has Denis Welch rebuilt head and fast road cam.
>
> Simon.
From Gene Schaeffer <gene356 at flash.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 06:35:04 -0500
Subject: 1967 BJ8 MKIII FOR SALE
Anyone looking for a BJ8 please contact me.
Gene
Austin, Tx.
From Tomsimkins at aol.com
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 08:08:52 EDT
Subject: Sills
Hello all,
I've pretty much got my BN4 stripped down and am ready to dig into the
bodywork. I know there's been threads on sill replacement before so can
anyone tell me how to get into the archives?
Is there a good book that details the steps involved in replacing the inner /
outer sills, etc? I know there was discussion about engine / tranny in or
out, along with supporting the door openings. I'd like to make sure I do it
right.
Thanks for your help,
Tom
From njones at amadeus.net
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 14:23:58 +0100
Subject: Engine Mathematics...not again..
From: Nick Jones@AMAWORLD on 26/06/2000 02:23 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
cc:
Subject: Engine Mathematics...not again..
My Healey has had the =020" overbore which I believe makes it 2952cc (180cu inch
motor..approx)
Does anyone remember the formula for 'Cylinder Volume',knowing that the overbore
size is 50mm per cylinder
over the standard I could calculate the total swept volume of 1
cylinder..multiply by 6 and then would have the total engine size.
I was trying to work this out last night watching
Holland thrash Yugoslavia..(the Euro 2000 Championships) but the 6 goals Holland
scored broke my concentration.
Can you help..?
Best wishes
From "Paul Leeks" <paul_leeks at hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 14:17:48 GMT
Subject: Engine Mathematics...not again..
Just testing
________________________________________________________________________
From "Paul Leeks" <paul_leeks at hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 14:18:01 GMT
Subject: Engine Mathematics...not again..
Just testing
________________________________________________________________________
From "jim t.p. ryan" <ryan at jimryan.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 07:18:44 -0700
Subject: Outer sill and frame piece
I need to replace the outer sill on the right side of the car, would Moss be
the best source for this? Also, uner the car, about midway up the front fender
is a square piece running from the main frame to the outer part of the car
where the front fender attaches. Looks like part of the frame. This is
completly rusted out. Is there a replacement for this piece or does it need to
be fabricated?
Jim
___________________________________________________________________________
Visit http://www.visto.com/info, your free web-based communications center.
Visto.com. Life on the Dot.
From "S.HUTCHINGS" <hutching at myna.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 10:21:49 -0400
Subject: Re; Re; Triple 2in SUs
Surely Jaguar was not a part of BMC when the tri-carb was introduced?
Stephen BJ8
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 09:58:22 -0500
Subject: Re: Engine Mathematics...not again..
>My Healey has had the =020" overbore which I believe makes it 2952cc
(180cu inch
>motor..approx)
>
>Does anyone remember the formula for 'Cylinder Volume',knowing that the
overbore
>size is 50mm per cylinder
>over the standard I could calculate the total swept volume of 1
>cylinder..multiply by 6 and then would have the total engine size.
>
Nick:
Cylinder Volume = radius (squared) times pi times height.
Standard Bore = 3.281 inches or 83.34 mm; +.20 or .50 mm = 3.481 in. or
83.84 mm
Standard Stroke = 3.5 in. or 88.9 mm
Thus, your radius = 83.84/2= 41.92 mm
radius squared = 1757.3
V = 1757.3 x 3.14 x 88.9 = 490,539.46 cmm or 490.54 cc x 6 = 2,943.24 cc
Best regards.
Jim Hockert
Dallas, TX
BJ8 Rallye
From "chris o'neill" <chris.oneill at cwcom.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 16:09:15 +0100
Subject: Nurburgring Oldtimer Meet 3 August 2000
Greetings!
Is anyone reading this going to this event in Germany? I believe it is a
great gathering of many classic cars from all over Europe. Where can I
find out more - the German Healey Club has not responded to my contact.
Regards
Chris O'Neill in Cheshire England
1967 BJ8
From "Chris Heide" <cheide at pitnet.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 10:21:59 -0500
Subject: price estimate, please
A ballpark value on the following would be most appreciated. I know it's
tough to do this sight unseen but I just need something to start with. 1960
Bugeye, 99 percent complete. Has not run in past 10 years. Never in
accident, minimal rust around rear wheel wells. Has fiberglass hard top.
88,000 miles.
Needs TLC. Thanks in advance for any help.
Christen P. Heide
4715 7th Avenue
Kenosha, WI 53140
cheide@pitnet.net
VOICE: 262-652-6526
FAX: 262-652-6719
Efax: 413-487-0668
From "Neil Cotty" <neilc at apphosting.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 01:39:23 +1000
Subject: Re: Re; Re; Triple 2in SUs
> Surely Jaguar was not a part of BMC when the tri-carb was introduced?
Jaguar became part of BMC in 1966 so you are right - no it wasn't.
Cheers,
Neil
--
61 A / 70 BGT / 68 CGT/ 56 BN2
URL: http://www.apphosting.com/mgstuff/
From Todd S Taylor <todd.s.taylor at lmco.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 12:01:56 -0400
Subject: Re: Outer sill and frame piece
I bought all my sills and metal pieces from Everett Smith, Vintage
Automotive....530-496-3200 e-mail: vintage@sisqtel.net
He has a catalog that shows each piece. I've bought both side sills, floors,
out-riggers etc.... from them... I've also had my rear fenders
fixed by him. He does nice work.... reasonable also....
1959 100-6
1980 MGB Liminted
1996 Audi A4
"jim t.p. ryan" wrote:
> I need to replace the outer sill on the right side of the car, would Moss be
>the best source for this? Also, uner the car, about midway up the front
>fender is a square piece running from the main frame to the outer part of the
>car where the front fender attaches. Looks like part of the frame. This is
>completly rusted out. Is there a replacement for this piece or does it need
>to be fabricated?
>
> Jim
>
> ___________________________________________________________________________
> Visit http://www.visto.com/info, your free web-based communications center.
> Visto.com. Life on the Dot.
From "Alan Hantke" <Alan_Hantke at i2.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 09:16:14 -0700
Subject: Re: SV: Service tool 18G 82 and Hub removal
The tool to remove the hubs is really quite easy to make... if you are so
inclined. I'll explain it out of memory
as I'm at work.
I took a 5" diameter piece of 1/2" steel and attached to it a layout of the bolt
holes. The layout was calculated
and then printed on a laser printer. I drilled the holes for the studs to
appropriate size. I then used a fine tap on
in the center (the same thread as the O/D pump removal tool as I recall. After
this, I found a slug of matterial I
would turn on a lathe which would fit into the axle (needless to say, this had a
lip on it so it would not slide in all
the way!). While still chucked in the lathe, I countersunk a small hole in the
center which of the outside side. Into
this I epoxied a ball bearing. This bearing provides a hardened, low friction
point for the stud from the first
part of the tool to engage.
Usage...
1. Slide piece number 2 into the hub (after the epoxy has dried, of course).
2. Slide the plate over the studs and 'hold' it in as far as it will go
3. Keeping the plate perpendicular to the axis of the axle, lightly tighten the
bolts on the studs
4. Use a bolt in the center hole to 'pull' the hub off of the axle
After all of this, you'll realize that you probably need to make another disk on
the lathe to facilitate the replacement
of the oil seal.
I realize that all of these tasks require a lathe, but these are not all that
uncommon. Maybe a friend has one?
At any rate, it is an idea! If you can figure out how to remove the nut, that
is really the more taxing issue (I manufactured
a nut with an EDM... really neat). Lastly, after all of this, you will probably
find that the leaking member in all of this isn't
your oil seal but the paper gasket! I believe that to be the case in my
situation.
Good Luck
--Alan
|--------+---------------------------->
| | "Karlsson Magnus" |
| | <healey@telia.com>|
| | Sent by: |
| | owner-healeys@auto|
| | x.team.net |
| | |
| | |
| | 06/25/00 11:48 AM |
| | Please respond to |
| | "Karlsson Magnus" |
| | |
|--------+---------------------------->
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------|
| |
| To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net> |
| cc: |
| Subject: SV: Service tool 18G 82 and Hub removal |
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------|
Brian,
You can use the brake drum to remove the hub. Turn it the other way around over
the hub screws and put on the nuts, leaving a large amount of movement between
drum and hub. Then you pull repeatedly on the drum with your hands. This will
get the hubs off.
To mount the bearings onto the axle use a piece of tubing large enogh to go over
the axle ends but not larger than the inner bearing race and knock with a hammer
on the tubing.
Magnus karlsson
SWEDEN
----- Original Message -----
From: Brian Mix <brianmix@home.com>
To: <Healeyguy@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, June 25, 2000 12:59 AM
Subject: Service tool 18G 82 and Hub removal
>
> Hello,
>
> So if I do indeed have to remove the rear hubs to get the oil out of my
breaks, can I use a big gear puller or is there a source for this tool?
>
> AND when it's time to press the new bearing in how do you do it on the car? Is
this a pipe and hammer thing?
>
>
> Brian Mix
> '55 AH-100 LeMans
> http://www.mixed-media.net/100Lemans/
>
> Vice-President Austin Healey Club of San Diego http://www.sdhealey.org/
>
From hm.heim at t-online.de (Helga & Martin Heim)
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 17:58:34 +0200
Subject: Re: Sills
Here is the URL to get to the archives.
http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=healeys
> anyone tell me how to get into the archives?
>
Good luck
Martin
Germany
From skip saunders <tfs at mitre.org>
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 13:08:31 -0400
Subject: Re: Outer sill and frame piece
I second this... His metal fit nicely...
Todd S Taylor wrote:
>
> I bought all my sills and metal pieces from Everett Smith, Vintage
>Automotive....530-496-3200 e-mail: vintage@sisqtel.net
> He has a catalog that shows each piece. I've bought both side sills, floors,
>out-riggers etc.... from them... I've also had my rear fenders
> fixed by him. He does nice work.... reasonable also....
>
> 1959 100-6
> 1980 MGB Liminted
> 1996 Audi A4
>
> "jim t.p. ryan" wrote:
>
> > I need to replace the outer sill on the right side of the car, would Moss
>be the best source for this? Also, uner the car, about midway up the front
>fender is a square piece running from the main frame to the outer part of the
>car where the front fender attaches. Looks like part of the frame. This is
>completly rusted out. Is there a replacement for this piece or does it need
>to be fabricated?
> >
> > Jim
> >
> > ___________________________________________________________________________
> > Visit http://www.visto.com/info, your free web-based communications center.
> > Visto.com. Life on the Dot.
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 12:46:11 -0500
Subject: RE: Head & Manifolds
Hi,
Yes, the stuff comes in a spray can.
As others have mentioned, having the manifolds on when installing the heads
may make it tip and bind a bit on the studs. Personally, I like being able
to watch the edge of the gasket as I torque the head, to be sure all's well.
It's the carbs that are the biggest pain to install, not the manifolds.
One suggestion that I would like to offer is to leave out the last couple of
manifold studs for the exhaust as the throttle shaft will interfere slightly
if you try to get the manifold on.
Either way, it goes a lot easier if you have an engine hoist do most of the
load-bearing, with you just guiding things in place. You may have to
remove the O/D throttle switch from the firewall and bend the heater hoses
well out of the way.
Regards,
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: S.HUTCHINGS [mailto:hutching@myna.com]
Sent: Friday, June 23, 2000 5:15 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Head & Manifolds
H i Everyone, First let me say thanks for the advice on the head gasket
installation, BTW Adnan,
was that Permatex copper head gasket sealant a spray?
Now let me pick your collective brains again....Does anyone know why I
shouldn't put the manifolds on
the head, prior to installation? It would definately be easier to torque
them up, but I'm worried about fouling something on the way down.
Thanks, Stephen, BJ8
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 12:02:04 -0700
Subject: Re: Head & Manifolds
I was quite surprised to find that the head with all attachments would come
out without beating everything up....but it did and also went in the same.
It is a very tight fit, but no marks and nothing had to be removed
(including hood). Two people and a hoist was all it took. I lay a towel on
the back of the head and one on the steering tube also pushed the heater
hoses out of the way.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant@mkg.com>
To: "'S.HUTCHINGS'" <hutching@myna.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 26, 2000 10:46 AM
Subject: RE: Head & Manifolds
>
> Hi,
>
> Yes, the stuff comes in a spray can.
>
> As others have mentioned, having the manifolds on when installing the
heads
> may make it tip and bind a bit on the studs. Personally, I like being
able
> to watch the edge of the gasket as I torque the head, to be sure all's
well.
>
> It's the carbs that are the biggest pain to install, not the manifolds.
> One suggestion that I would like to offer is to leave out the last couple
of
> manifold studs for the exhaust as the throttle shaft will interfere
slightly
> if you try to get the manifold on.
>
> Either way, it goes a lot easier if you have an engine hoist do most of
the
> load-bearing, with you just guiding things in place. You may have to
> remove the O/D throttle switch from the firewall and bend the heater hoses
> well out of the way.
>
> Regards,
> Adnan
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: S.HUTCHINGS [mailto:hutching@myna.com]
> Sent: Friday, June 23, 2000 5:15 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Head & Manifolds
>
> H i Everyone, First let me say thanks for the advice on the head gasket
> installation, BTW Adnan,
> was that Permatex copper head gasket sealant a spray?
> Now let me pick your collective brains again....Does anyone know why I
> shouldn't put the manifolds on
> the head, prior to installation? It would definately be easier to torque
> them up, but I'm worried about fouling something on the way down.
> Thanks, Stephen, BJ8
>
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 13:24:12 -0700
Subject: Battery Master Switch...
Could someone please explain the purpose of the "white with black" wire that
comes off the master switch and goes to the "cb" term of the coil. When the
master switch is closed the "cb" does not get pos.grnd from the master
switch yes? When the master switch is open a positive grnd is placed on the
"cb" term yes? Both of the above are questions not statements, if they are
correct what is the reason to shunt the coil to grnd when then master switch
is already off? Someone once said the reason was for extra security....but
if the switch is off how could you start it anyway, confused....Neil
From "Don Gschwind" <dgschwind at prodigy.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 16:37:17 -0400
Subject: Tenax Fasteners
Hi, Listers
As I was buttoning "Pandora" up for a drive, and putting on
the top boot cover, one of the fasteners pulled out of the body. It
was the furthest forward on the left side of the car, almost to the
door opening, and had a sheet metal screw type shaft into the body.
This is a blind hole in the shroud, as the rear quarter panel is
directly behind the hole, and the drain trough behind it. By the looks
of the hole, this is not a new problem. I'm hoping there is a
relatively easy solution, short of disassembling the rear wing! Is
there an apoxy glue or something to use? This area of the body and
paint is in great shape, so I don't see a reason for removal of the
fastener again. Thanks in advance.
DON
BJ8 Pandora
From "Michael Lempert" <mdlempert at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 16:54:15 -0400
Subject: Re: 3.54 rear
I think lister Vrugtman meant to say "much more than". Anyway, I had
heard rumor of another effort somewhere, but not the details. And John is
right that the gears must be installed properly to ensure low noise and
wear.
When I had inquired, the manufacturer was not interested in even quoting a
smaller run. So the target number still stands at 100. Currently I have
interest for 18, only 82 more to go.
When and if we get the required number of commitments, it'll then take
about three months to complete the process. Should we get close to the
number, I may be willing to hold a few sets here for future interest.
However, as I'm sure you can all appreciate, I can't put out the full $20k
for the production run.
Thanks Dr. Carl for the support.
Mike L.
Bridgewater, NJ
>Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 21:47:27 -0400
>From: "John A. Vrugtman" <javrugtman@widomaker.com>
>Subject: Re: 3.54 rear
>
>What happened to the effort advertised in "The Mark" for producing a run of
>3.54s at $750 each. That's much less than Mike's price, but I thought it
was
>for a smaller batch. bytw, I understand after one of these is produced one
has
>to have it set up on your supplied differential assembly by someone who can
do
>that job for another fee. Anyone know how much this is?
>John
>Williamsburg, VA
>BJ8s
>
>"Dr. C Rubino" wrote:
>
> Hey you guys and gals. Did you read Mike Lempert's message about possibly
> producting new 3.5 differentials.
>
> Get on the wagon.
>
> I installed a 3.54 in my 100/6 (BJ-8 powered) a few years ago and you
> wouldn't belief the difference. Lots of torque at low reves and cruising
> beautifully at very low revs with overdrive. Glorious for anyone who loves
> to take to the open road for a good trip.
>
> In my case it was a used differential and has a bit of a whine to it.
> Someday its going to give up the ghost and I am going to have to go on
> another 10 year search for another "old" one.
>
> So give it some thought because I would like to have a new one hanging
> around. Call Mike at mlempert@worldnet.att.net. He needs enough orders for
> the production run.
>
> And yes I do have an interest because if he can't get enough people for
the
> manufacturing then I can't get my hands on a new one.
>
> Carl
> BN-4 (Longbridge-1957-powered by BJ-8)
From skip saunders <tfs at mitre.org>
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 17:01:48 -0400
Subject: Re: Tenax Fasteners
I fear that it was improperly mounted. At the point you describe, the
fastener is not supposed to be sheet metal... it is supposed to be a
threaded nut...
(Yes, I know, the nut is a bear to get threaded....I've done it a couple
of times now (on different cars)...)
The way to mount the nut is to place a piece of putty on a small open
ended wrench and insert the nut into the putty, then you carefully slide
the nut/putty/wrench assembly up behind the gutter until it is lined up
with the hole... then you insert the screw-threaded-tenax fastener
through the hole and into the nut. Twist the fastener by hand until it
grabs the nut and then continue tightening until the nut is secure...
the proper tenax fastener not only has screw threads, it also has a hex
head base... so you can tighten the fastener quite well against the
nut. Once done this way, you'll probably not have much problem
again... but if it was threaded as a sheet metal screw, it will just
keep reaming the hole larger and larger until you've got a mess...
Best wishes
-Skip-
Don Gschwind wrote:
>
> Hi, Listers
> As I was buttoning "Pandora" up for a drive, and putting on
> the top boot cover, one of the fasteners pulled out of the body. It
> was the furthest forward on the left side of the car, almost to the
> door opening, and had a sheet metal screw type shaft into the body.
> This is a blind hole in the shroud, as the rear quarter panel is
> directly behind the hole, and the drain trough behind it. By the looks
> of the hole, this is not a new problem. I'm hoping there is a
> relatively easy solution, short of disassembling the rear wing! Is
> there an apoxy glue or something to use? This area of the body and
> paint is in great shape, so I don't see a reason for removal of the
> fastener again. Thanks in advance.
> DON
> BJ8 Pandora
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 16:09:42 -0500
Subject: RE: Tenax Fasteners
Hi Don,
I had asked about these special nuts a few weeks ago and a suggestion that
was made was to tighten the threaded rivet.
Screw in a #10 hex-head bolt with a nut (and flat washer) on it. Insert
assembly into hole and tighten the nut while holding the head. If you
notice, the internal threads don't extend all the way to the top in that
rivet, leaving a small crush zone where the thing can flare out.
As you tighten the nut, it should draw up the back of the rivet. If the
hole in the shroud is really bad, this may not be adequate in which case
you'll have to pull off the quarter panel.
Hope this helps.
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: Don Gschwind [mailto:dgschwind@prodigy.net]
Sent: Monday, June 26, 2000 1:37 PM
To: 'Healey List'
Cc: Gschwind, Don & Ellie
Subject: Tenax Fasteners
Hi, Listers
As I was buttoning "Pandora" up for a drive, and putting on
the top boot cover, one of the fasteners pulled out of the body. It
was the furthest forward on the left side of the car, almost to the
door opening, and had a sheet metal screw type shaft into the body.
This is a blind hole in the shroud, as the rear quarter panel is
directly behind the hole, and the drain trough behind it. By the looks
of the hole, this is not a new problem. I'm hoping there is a
relatively easy solution, short of disassembling the rear wing! Is
there an apoxy glue or something to use? This area of the body and
paint is in great shape, so I don't see a reason for removal of the
fastener again. Thanks in advance.
DON
BJ8 Pandora
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 17:13:45 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Round the World Arrival At Duluth
Arrives Thursday Night, Lay-Day on Friday and leaves Saturday morning.
DickB
---- you wrote:
> What day will the tour be in Duluth?
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From Silas Elash <spe00 at amdahl.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 14:40:53 -0700
Subject: Seeking advice: To blast or not to blast
Hello,
I have been watching the list as I have been stripping my BJ7 down to the frame.
One more day and it is clean (can't say as much for my garage!).
I have some major front end frame repair to do which will entail new front
frame rails. I was palnning on getting the car blasted before I do the
welding and replacements so I can get a good feel for how much rust is
really present - I have heard that you never really know until you have
it blasted clean. I have also heard that you should complete all
replacements/welding before you get the car blasted. I am leaning towrads
blasting the car clean and primering it the next day -this means I would have
to fight some primer when cutting/welding. I think I would rather work on a
clean
car.
Blast then weld or Weld then blast?
Any thoughts on the subject?
63 BJ7
--
Silas Elash email: Silas_Elash@amdahl.com
Staff System Design Engineer phone:(408) 746-6536
Connectivity Development fax:(408) 746-8502
Amdahl Corporation
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 18:42:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Battery Master Switch...
Neil Trelenberg wrote:
> Could someone please explain the purpose of the "white with black" wire that
> comes off the master switch and goes to the "cb" term of the coil. When the
> master switch is closed the "cb" does not get pos.grnd from the master
> switch yes? When the master switch is open a positive grnd is placed on the
> "cb" term yes? Both of the above are questions not statements, if they are
> correct what is the reason to shunt the coil to grnd when then master switch
> is already off? Someone once said the reason was for extra security....but
> if the switch is off how could you start it anyway, confused....Neil
Hi Niel,
This is how easy it is.
1> Open the bonnet(hood)
2> Remove the fuse cover
3> Take the spare fuse and push it in between the contacts for the 2 fuses in
use. (You will hear the fuel pump run)
4> Jump in and have a buddy give you a push down the hill: clutch in 2nd gear.
5> Let out the clutch to bump start the engine.
6> Drive away.......
The white with black wite stops the engine from starting. :-)
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
From "Clint Hatton, Jr." <chatton at epix.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 18:51:03 -0400
Subject: Car for sale
Hi listers,
I hope this isn't a faux pas. I have no interest in this auto and I'm
not a mechanic. That being said, there is a 54 or 55 BN1, #150387 for
sale here in Chester Co., PA. I've seen it and it appears to be a nice
(remember, I'm not a mechanic). The man is not online, so you must
phone him at 610 932-4198. Anyone in Lancaster Co, the cat was worked
on most recently at Showroom Restorations in Litiz, PA
Usual disclaimers apply.
From "JIS" <ah102 at home.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 19:00:39 -0400
Subject: Re: Battery Master Switch...
Neil: You are mostly right. The wire is to short the ignition primary to
ground when the battery switch is in the off position. This is to prevent
someone from starting the car from a jump, where it may be able to run off
the generator.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: Neil Trelenberg <neilberg@telus.net>
To: Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 26, 2000 4:24 PM
Subject: Battery Master Switch...
>
> Could someone please explain the purpose of the "white with black" wire
that
> comes off the master switch and goes to the "cb" term of the coil. When
the
> master switch is closed the "cb" does not get pos.grnd from the master
> switch yes? When the master switch is open a positive grnd is placed on
the
> "cb" term yes? Both of the above are questions not statements, if they are
> correct what is the reason to shunt the coil to grnd when then master
switch
> is already off? Someone once said the reason was for extra security....but
> if the switch is off how could you start it anyway, confused....Neil
>
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 19:13:16 -0400
Subject: More of the Leaking Gas Tank Blues
...and the beat goes on.
Finally bought a new steel fuel tank from Healey Haven in Baltimore.
(Healey Surgeons are still on vacation and not back for another week.) They
offered a choice of two different steel tanks, one obviously inferior, and
one that was $5 more than the aluminum tank. Luckily, I brought the old
tank with me because the old (I hate to use the word original) fuel out line
was vertical to the tank vice at a right angle on each of the new tanks.
This necessitated another expenditure for a new fuel line.
(I wish to define a new unit of measurement that I will attempt to get
recognized by the National Institute of Science and Technology. It will be
called a Healey Unit and it will initially equal $100 in Y2K dollars. It
sounds much better to admit to friends that the gas line only cost a "half a
Healey unit".)
So I get home with my new purchases, figure out that I have to remove the
right rear seat (euphemism) pan to see the fuel pump end of the line, and
then remove same. With the fuel pump uncovered in all its glory, I see that
the restorer must have had difficulty getting the fuel line connected to the
fuel pump. There solution was to cut the steel line and insert a foot long
length of armored rubber fuel hose connected to the fittings with over-sized
hose clamps. They thoughtfully used large enough clamps so that the extra
tail could be razor sharpened so as to protect the fitting from a future
owner trying to remove it with his screw driver. I noted also that the
"new" fuel line that supposedly matched the "new" fuel tank is carefully
bent in such a manner as to not line up with the old fuel pump. As soon as
I rotate the fitting on the pump to line up with the "new" fuel line I am
certain one of two things will happen: (a) gas will leak at the now loose
fitting if I loosen the fitting to line up with the fuel line, or (b) gas
will leak at the crack in the fuel pump body if I tighten the fitting to
line up.
At this instant, thunder sounded and it was a race to get the beautiful car
covered before the heavens opened. Sweating giant bullets (90 degrees with
99% humidity here in lovely Northern Virginia today), I got everything
buttoned up and tools/parts safe in the house to watch a total of three
raindrops fall...
So while I did get the necessary parts together today, the only progress was
that I painted the bottom of the tank with one coat of flat black rustoleum.
I'm not having a good time!
Tomorrow morning I'm going to West Marine, buying an outboard gas tank, a
short length of hose, and four 3/4" S/S hose clamps. Maybe then I will be
able to get the car to my son's lockable garage and leave on a vacation
Wednesday...
Lee
PS. In the midst of trying to get the old gas tank out Thursday right after
the Healey's delivery truck left, an old Navy pilot buddy stopped by. After
making a drink and dragging a chair over to watch my struggles, he
announced, "You know, Lee. I only paid a few thousand more for my new SUV,
and it didn't leak when I got it and has run great for two years now!"
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 18:20:43 -0500
Subject: RE: Battery Master Switch...
But if the battery is not connected to chassis, how does the ignition
circuit get completed to allow the engine to fire?
-----Original Message-----
From: Krazy Kiwi [mailto:magicare@home.com]
Sent: Monday, June 26, 2000 3:42 PM
To: Neil Trelenberg
Cc: Healey
Subject: Re: Battery Master Switch...
Hi Niel,
This is how easy it is.
1> Open the bonnet(hood)
2> Remove the fuse cover
3> Take the spare fuse and push it in between the contacts for the 2 fuses
in
use. (You will hear the fuel pump run)
4> Jump in and have a buddy give you a push down the hill: clutch in 2nd
gear.
5> Let out the clutch to bump start the engine.
6> Drive away.......
The white with black wite stops the engine from starting. :-)
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
From "Bob Yule" <autofarm at gate-way.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 20:41:27 -0400
Subject: BJ8 FOR SALE
A non lister has for sale 1966 BJ8, dismantled but complete and rolling.
Including $2700.00 in new parts.
Car is located near Stratford Ontario, and asking CAN$9000.00 OR US$6000.00.
No financial interest etc.
Contact Bill @ 519 393 6630 or joystraw@orc.ca
From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 20:55:35 EDT
Subject: Re: Seeking advice: To blast or not to blast
Silas,
I went through the same feelings that you are going through now. I
eventually decided to blast first, then repair. I was glad I did, since the
blasting opened up a few more minor problem areas that I would not have found
had I done the welding first. The best thing I did was to cut the very front
bottom of the frame open(where the sway bar mounts). That gave me a way to
wire brush the inside of the frame rails and really clean them out well
before I painted inside the rails. That piece of steel at the front was the
last piece I welded on. Good luck.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 22:35:30 -0400
Subject: frame blasting
Silas,
A quick note on blasting the frame. Since you are going to open things up a
bit, try to get all the media out before you weld things back up. This is a
big deal because blast media can get everywhere inside your frame rails,
collect moisture and eventually cause problems. Smaller frames can be tilted
and blown out with compressed air.
Also if you are blasting the whole frame I would definatly prime right
away.We use masking tape on areas to be welded.Cleaned metal can turn to a
brown surface rusted mess in no time flat depending on humidity in your
area.
Carroll
From "Michael Lempert" <mdlempert at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 22:43:27 -0400
Subject: Re: 3.54 rear
----- Original Message -----
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <mdlempert@worldnet.att.net>
Sent: Monday, June 26, 2000 8:30 PM
Subject: Re: 3.54 rear
> I would like to know if it will fit in a late BN1 differenial. Also, how
> much will it cost? What would be the reduction in rpm's by %?
>
> Thanks--Michael
>
Michael:
The ratio would be a 3.5 (12/42), which is approximately .4 lower than the
original 3.909 (11/43) found on the 3000 models. That would indicate a
10.25% reduction.
The 100-six had a 4.1 (not sure of gear ratio), thus the reduction would be
14.6%
To my understanding, the BN1 and BN2 models had two different ratios; a
4.125 (8/33) and then a 4.1 (10/41) which came at chassis 221536, thus
reductions of 14.6% would apply here as well.
My understanding has been that the gears are interchangeable for all Big
Healeys. I'm copying this response to the list hoping that the experts will
confirm or correct my data and assumptions. The unit I sent to the
manufacturer to model from was from a 3000.
Once again, the price is expected to be $220 per set - 3.5 (12/42). I need
to commit to 100 sets. At first I was not optimistic at all. However,
interest has been growing and we are now at the 20% point.
Regards,
Mike L.
Bridgewater, NJ
From "Tim Moran" <timoran at ticnet.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 21:53:45 -0500
Subject: Re: Seeking advice: To blast or not to blast
6-26-2000 @ 9:30 PM
Silas,
I would definately BLAST before WELDING or other repairs and/or rework!
That is what I did and I am sure glad. I had so much crud (oil soaked dirt)
all over the place, that I would not have been able to strike an arc. My
shop used finely ground coas cinders. The resulting finish was great for
the epoxy primer to stick to.
As far as painting the next day goes, I presume that you want to do that in
a hurry to preclude rust. The blast shop that I used sprayed the freshly
blasted chassis with phosphate based rust inhibiter before they took it out
of the blast booth. I painted my chassis with black epoxy primer followed
by gloss black Deltron, about a month after the blast job. Absolutely NO
hint of orange (rust) anywhere. The 2-part epoxy primer was very expensive
(about $50 a QUART), but well worth the money.
Also, it sure helps your attitude to work on a chassis that is clean.
You can see pictures of my frame-up restoration and modification at
www.modifiedhealeys.austin1.com
Look for my car, "Max", in the first row.
While you are there, take a few minutes and look at some of the other cars.
I am in the process of uploading another 40 cars to the site.
Tim Moran
www.ntahc.austin1.com
www.modifiedhealeys.austin1.com
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 19:47:58 -0700
Subject: Re: Battery Master Switch...
Thank you, thank you....ahhhhh the generator very simple now. I knew there
had to be a good reason...Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Krazy Kiwi" <magicare@home.com>
To: "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg@telus.net>
Cc: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 26, 2000 3:42 PM
Subject: Re: Battery Master Switch...
>
>
> Neil Trelenberg wrote:
>
> > Could someone please explain the purpose of the "white with black" wire
that
> > comes off the master switch and goes to the "cb" term of the coil. When
the
> > master switch is closed the "cb" does not get pos.grnd from the master
> > switch yes? When the master switch is open a positive grnd is placed on
the
> > "cb" term yes? Both of the above are questions not statements, if they
are
> > correct what is the reason to shunt the coil to grnd when then master
switch
> > is already off? Someone once said the reason was for extra
security....but
> > if the switch is off how could you start it anyway, confused....Neil
>
> Hi Niel,
>
> This is how easy it is.
> 1> Open the bonnet(hood)
> 2> Remove the fuse cover
> 3> Take the spare fuse and push it in between the contacts for the 2 fuses
in
> use. (You will hear the fuel pump run)
> 4> Jump in and have a buddy give you a push down the hill: clutch in 2nd
gear.
> 5> Let out the clutch to bump start the engine.
> 6> Drive away.......
>
> The white with black wite stops the engine from starting. :-)
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>
>
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 22:59:06 EDT
Subject: Re: heater hoses
The heater hoses go under the defroster hoses and they must cross . the hose
from the heater valve goes to the valve on the side of the head and the other
hose goes from the right front of the heater box to the heater pipe on the
manifolds. If you connect these hoses the other way the water will not go
thtough the heater valve into the heater.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>Br
itishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From "Don Gschwind" <DGSCHWIND at prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 00:00:51 -0400
Subject: Re: Battery Master Switch...
Hi, Neil
Your assumptions are correct. As a theft prevention device, it
works even if the thief has a power supply and is smart enough to know
it is a positive ground vehicle. The ignition is still shorted out and
cannot run the car. Overkill? I don't know if it has caused other
problems, but it's one more reason why you can't drive the car away
without closing the master switch.
DON
BJ8 Pandora
----- Original Message -----
From: Neil Trelenberg <neilberg@telus.net>
To: Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 26, 2000 4:24 PM
Subject: Battery Master Switch...
>
> Could someone please explain the purpose of the "white with black"
wire that
> comes off the master switch and goes to the "cb" term of the coil.
When the
> master switch is closed the "cb" does not get pos.grnd from the
master
> switch yes? When the master switch is open a positive grnd is placed
on the
> "cb" term yes? Both of the above are questions not statements, if
they are
> correct what is the reason to shunt the coil to grnd when then
master switch
> is already off? Someone once said the reason was for extra
security....but
> if the switch is off how could you start it anyway, confused....Neil
>
From "Don Gschwind" <DGSCHWIND at prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 00:44:53 -0400
Subject: Re: Tenax Fasteners
Hi,
Here I go again! This line is fantastic with the ability to
help solve many problems! It also is an opportunity for embarrasment.
Had I looked closer, I would have seen some threads and much paint in
the hole the fastener came out of. What are the thread sizes on the
proper tenax fastener? I poked a 10x32 screw in the hole, and it
appears there are enough threads to engage a screw. I did not tighten
it at all, 'cause I don't know what the proper screw is, the threads
are full of paint, and I've got enough of a problem now without adding
to them. I've got a full range of US taps available if thats what it
takes. BTW, the current hole goes clear through into the drain trough
as though someone thought they could solve the problem by attaching
there instead of in the nut. TIA, I'm going on vacation for a couple
of weeks, so I'll talk to you then.
DON
BJ8 Pandora
----- Original Message -----
From: Merchant, Adnan <Adnan.Merchant@mkg.com>
To: 'Don Gschwind' <dgschwind@prodigy.net>; 'Healey List'
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 26, 2000 5:09 PM
Subject: RE: Tenax Fasteners
>
> Hi Don,
>
> I had asked about these special nuts a few weeks ago and a
suggestion that
> was made was to tighten the threaded rivet.
>
> Screw in a #10 hex-head bolt with a nut (and flat washer) on it.
Insert
> assembly into hole and tighten the nut while holding the head. If
you
> notice, the internal threads don't extend all the way to the top in
that
> rivet, leaving a small crush zone where the thing can flare out.
>
> As you tighten the nut, it should draw up the back of the rivet.
If the
> hole in the shroud is really bad, this may not be adequate in which
case
> you'll have to pull off the quarter panel.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Adnan
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Don Gschwind [mailto:dgschwind@prodigy.net]
> Sent: Monday, June 26, 2000 1:37 PM
> To: 'Healey List'
> Cc: Gschwind, Don & Ellie
> Subject: Tenax Fasteners
>
> Hi, Listers
> As I was buttoning "Pandora" up for a drive, and putting on
> the top boot cover, one of the fasteners pulled out of the body. It
> was the furthest forward on the left side of the car, almost to the
> door opening, and had a sheet metal screw type shaft into the body.
> This is a blind hole in the shroud, as the rear quarter panel is
> directly behind the hole, and the drain trough behind it. By the
looks
> of the hole, this is not a new problem. I'm hoping there is a
> relatively easy solution, short of disassembling the rear wing! Is
> there an apoxy glue or something to use? This area of the body and
> paint is in great shape, so I don't see a reason for removal of the
> fastener again. Thanks in advance.
> DON
> BJ8 Pandora
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 23:54:34 -0400
Subject: Engine Oil and Food Coloring
Hi Gang:
I wonder what the detrimental affect (if any ) would be to put a few drops
of red food coloring in with your engine oil so you could more readily spot
an oil leak? Any chemists out there?
It would seem to me that other than dark brown or black, a colored engine
oil would be very good thing to have, you could see the mark on the dipstick
better, you could spot oil leaks better.
Let's hear it!
Don
BN7
From "Andy King" <healey-100 at hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 19:24:46 -1000
Subject: Re: 3.54 rear
I am running a non overdrive 3000 3.54 differential in my 1956 Healey 100
BN2. It's so awsome.
My engine has a stock lower end, but I do have a lemans cam and bigger
carbs. Though, before I went to the bigger carbs it was still awsome. I
have a 1955 BN1 rear end in my Healey, the only problem you might have in
doing this conversion is if your rear end has a square lug oil filler plug
in the center differential carrier when you drop in the later type 3000 3.54
pumpkin you will loose the oil filler plug. I pour my oil in by removing the
axel and squirting it in from the side. I should have taken the whole 3000
rear end then I could fill it from the three thousand's filler plug on the
axel housing. I will someday drill a hole and weld in a filler plug like
the three thousand unit . If you just get the gear set and have it installed
in your stock alloy center section you don't loose the filler plug. I should
have done that but had since tossed out the original differential center
section, as a combination of me taking out my aggressions, and weak
aftermarket springs, resulted in axel wind up shearing the pinion shaft in
half! we will just call it driver error! But, back to the point. Imagine
the look on my face as I had my bottle of gear oil in one hand and the work
light in the other and came to the sudden realization I had no filler plug!
That having been said I must say that the 3.54 rear end gearing is one of
the best modifications I've ever done to the car. There is more than enough
torque and horsepower to deal with the taller gearing and you're not
changing gears twenty feet after pulling away from a curb.
Please to all purists, don't flame me. I got this car at age 14 for free,
it was going to the wrecking yard for sure. back then cars were not
resurected as they are today and no parts were available like today. I am
now 39 I'm on my third tear down and restoration of the car. Each time I
improve on the skill and quality of work preformed down to every, and I
mean every, nut and bolt, and transmission needle bearing! This car is no
bondo bucket! The car is now guaranteed to survive another 44 years and as
long as I'm alive it will never see the bone yard.
Happy Healing to all!
Andy King
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Lempert" <mdlempert@worldnet.att.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 26, 2000 4:43 PM
Subject: Re: 3.54 rear
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
> To: <mdlempert@worldnet.att.net>
> Sent: Monday, June 26, 2000 8:30 PM
> Subject: Re: 3.54 rear
>
> > I would like to know if it will fit in a late BN1 differenial. Also,
how
> > much will it cost? What would be the reduction in rpm's by %?
> >
> > Thanks--Michael
> >
>
> Michael:
>
> The ratio would be a 3.5 (12/42), which is approximately .4 lower than
the
> original 3.909 (11/43) found on the 3000 models. That would indicate a
> 10.25% reduction.
>
> The 100-six had a 4.1 (not sure of gear ratio), thus the reduction would
be
> 14.6%
>
> To my understanding, the BN1 and BN2 models had two different ratios; a
> 4.125 (8/33) and then a 4.1 (10/41) which came at chassis 221536, thus
> reductions of 14.6% would apply here as well.
>
> My understanding has been that the gears are interchangeable for all Big
> Healeys. I'm copying this response to the list hoping that the experts
will
> confirm or correct my data and assumptions. The unit I sent to the
> manufacturer to model from was from a 3000.
>
> Once again, the price is expected to be $220 per set - 3.5 (12/42). I
need
> to commit to 100 sets. At first I was not optimistic at all. However,
> interest has been growing and we are now at the 20% point.
>
> Regards,
> Mike L.
> Bridgewater, NJ
>
From Alan at roverworks.com (Alan Simpson)
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 22:24:31 -0700
Subject: Engine oil and food coloring
Engine oil and food coloring...HMMM... In my restoration shop we use a
'clip light' essentially a black light and dye. I recommend it highly, a
very effective tool. Alan, Rover Works B.C. Ltd
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 02:14:43 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Round the World Arrival At Duluth
They will be in Marquette Saturday night. They are traveling on a variety of
secondary and logging roads. The Arrowhead SportCar Club's website has the map
but no route numbers to speak of. Bedst is to arrive in Marquette and take a
look. Then they travel to Bay City MI
DickB
---- you wrote:
> Dick, What's the route out of Duluth on Saturday? We'll be in northern
> Wisconsin this weekend.
> Thanks,
> Dave
> 59 :{)
> 59 MGA
>
>
> dickb@cheerful.com wrote:
>
> > Arrives Thursday Night, Lay-Day on Friday and leaves Saturday morning.
> >
> > DickB
> >
> > ---- you wrote:
> > > What day will the tour be in Duluth?
> > >
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From njones at amadeus.net
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 08:58:08 +0100
Subject: Re: Engine Mathematics...not again..
Cylinder Volume = radius (squared) times pi times height.
Standard Bore = 3.281 inches or 83.34 mm; +.20 or .50 mm = 3.481 in. or
83.84 mm
Standard Stroke = 3.5 in. or 88.9 mm
Thus, your radius = 83.84/2= 41.92 mm
radius squared = 1757.3
V = 1757.3 x 3.14 x 88.9 = 490,539.46 cmm or 490.54 cc x 6 = 2,943.24 cc
Best regards.
Jim Hockert
Dallas, TX
Thanks Jim...I did get there in the end and calculated the same result as
you....
Interestingly enough if you apply this formula to the standard sizes you come
out with 2909cc and not 2912cc.
Maybe the difference is in the combustion chambers,although 3 cc sounds too
little across six cylinders..
Cheers
From "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virginnet.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 11:56:58 +0100
Subject: Triple 2in SUs
I may have an oppurtunity to buy a pile of these at
a hopefully sensible price. You may have seen previous
reference to this.
Vendors are "open to offers", but my guess is that they will
be cheap, as they appear to accumulate these things as they
rebuild old Jags and fit them out with all new running gear
engines-the lot. SUs get binned for FIinjection.
Carbs are as you'd expect-straight off the car and untouched.
If people want these, how about getting together so I could
send just one package over? By this I suppose that I don't
want to set up a parts distributor!
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 07:36:33 -0400
Subject: Re: 3.54 rear
Michael Lempert wrote:
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
> To: <mdlempert@worldnet.att.net>
> Sent: Monday, June 26, 2000 8:30 PM
> Subject: Re: 3.54 rear
>
> > I would like to know if it will fit in a late BN1 differenial. Also, how
> > much will it cost? What would be the reduction in rpm's by %?
> >
> > Thanks--Michael
> >
>
> Michael:
>
> The ratio would be a 3.5 (12/42), which is approximately .4 lower than the
> original 3.909 (11/43) found on the 3000 models. That would indicate a
> 10.25% reduction.
>
> The 100-six had a 4.1 (not sure of gear ratio), thus the reduction would be
> 14.6%
>
> To my understanding, the BN1 and BN2 models had two different ratios; a
> 4.125 (8/33) and then a 4.1 (10/41) which came at chassis 221536, thus
> reductions of 14.6% would apply here as well.
>
> My understanding has been that the gears are interchangeable for all Big
> Healeys. I'm copying this response to the list hoping that the experts will
> confirm or correct my data and assumptions. The unit I sent to the
> manufacturer to model from was from a 3000.
>
> Once again, the price is expected to be $220 per set - 3.5 (12/42). I need
> to commit to 100 sets. At first I was not optimistic at all. However,
> interest has been growing and we are now at the 20% point.
>
> Regards,
> Mike L.
> Bridgewater, NJ
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Just to make things clear.
This crown wheel and pinoin set will not fit an early BN1 diff which is of a
completely different design to the later hypoid type
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
From "Ledwith, Ryan S" <ryan.s.ledwith at ssmb.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 07:53:09 -0400
Subject: RE: Seeking advice: To blast or not to blast
Silas:
I also have a BJ7, and chose to weld before blasting. I had to wire brush
the areas where the rust was to make sure that I wouldn't be surprised, but
otherwise, it wasn't a problem.
My logic was to have the welded areas nicely blasted clean before painting.
It would be ideal to blast, then prime, then weld, then blast again, but it
was a real pain getting the chassis to the blast shop and back.
Life is full of compromises, I guess.
Ryan
64 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: Silas Elash [mailto:spe00@amdahl.com]
Sent: Monday, June 26, 2000 5:41 PM
To: healey list
Subject: Seeking advice: To blast or not to blast
Hello,
I have been watching the list as I have been stripping my BJ7 down to the
frame.
One more day and it is clean (can't say as much for my garage!).
I have some major front end frame repair to do which will entail new front
frame rails. I was palnning on getting the car blasted before I do the
welding and replacements so I can get a good feel for how much rust is
really present - I have heard that you never really know until you have
it blasted clean. I have also heard that you should complete all
replacements/welding before you get the car blasted. I am leaning towrads
blasting the car clean and primering it the next day -this means I would
have
to fight some primer when cutting/welding. I think I would rather work on a
clean
car.
Blast then weld or Weld then blast?
Any thoughts on the subject?
63 BJ7
--
Silas Elash email: Silas_Elash@amdahl.com
Staff System Design Engineer phone:(408) 746-6536
Connectivity Development fax:(408) 746-8502
Amdahl Corporation
From "JISah102" <ah102 at home.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 07:57:59 -0400
Subject: Re: 3.54 rear
When I put the 3.9 diff from a 3000 into my late BN1 I had the same problem.
Here is how I did it. While I had the diff out, I drilled and tapped the
housing in the same location for a 3/8-24 plug. The wall is thick enough
for this, and I safety wired the plug just as a precaution. Be careful to
remove all the chips. No welding needed. Another way is to add the oil
through the breather hole in top of the axle housing, but no way to check
the level.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: Andy King <healey-100@hawaii.rr.com>
To: Michael Lempert <mdlempert@worldnet.att.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2000 1:24 AM
Subject: Re: 3.54 rear
>
the only problem you might have in
> doing this conversion is if your rear end has a square lug oil filler plug
> in the center differential carrier when you drop in the later type 3000
3.54
> pumpkin you will loose the oil filler plug. I pour my oil in by removing
the
> axel and squirting it in from the side. I should have taken the whole 3000
> rear end then I could fill it from the three thousand's filler plug on the
> axel housing. I will someday drill a hole and weld in a filler plug like
> the three thousand unit . >
>
From "JISah102" <ah102 at home.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 08:01:01 -0400
Subject: Re: 3.54 rear
The 3000 diff and/or gearset will fit the late BN1's with the 5 stud hub,
but not the early BN1 with the 4 stub hub.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Lempert <mdlempert@worldnet.att.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 26, 2000 10:43 PM
Subject: Re: 3.54 rear
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
> To: <mdlempert@worldnet.att.net>
> Sent: Monday, June 26, 2000 8:30 PM
> Subject: Re: 3.54 rear
>
> > I would like to know if it will fit in a late BN1 differenial. Also,
how
> > much will it cost? What would be the reduction in rpm's by %?
> >
> > Thanks--Michael
> >
>
> Michael:
>
> The ratio would be a 3.5 (12/42), which is approximately .4 lower than
the
> original 3.909 (11/43) found on the 3000 models. That would indicate a
> 10.25% reduction.
>
> The 100-six had a 4.1 (not sure of gear ratio), thus the reduction would
be
> 14.6%
>
> To my understanding, the BN1 and BN2 models had two different ratios; a
> 4.125 (8/33) and then a 4.1 (10/41) which came at chassis 221536, thus
> reductions of 14.6% would apply here as well.
>
> My understanding has been that the gears are interchangeable for all Big
> Healeys. I'm copying this response to the list hoping that the experts
will
> confirm or correct my data and assumptions. The unit I sent to the
> manufacturer to model from was from a 3000.
>
> Once again, the price is expected to be $220 per set - 3.5 (12/42). I
need
> to commit to 100 sets. At first I was not optimistic at all. However,
> interest has been growing and we are now at the 20% point.
>
> Regards,
> Mike L.
> Bridgewater, NJ
>
From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Tue Jun 27 08:10:53 2000
Subject: Re: Engine Oil and Food Coloring
I think food coloring is water based and probably would not mix with the oil.
They do sell oil dyes that you add to your engine and then show up under black
light. Buy a bottle of that and then go to Spencers for your black light. No
pesky staining of your paint with that stuff.
Tim Wallace
'67 BJ8
Fuquay-Varina, NC
From "Alan Tadd" <Alan at tadd1.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 13:18:38 +0100
Subject: Re: Seeking advice: To blast or not to blast
Silas
I had my BJ7 shot blasted PRIOR to any welding. That way you can see any
potential trouble spots. It makes weding much easier as well. Incidently if
you have any original underseal on the car blasting will only partially
remove it. (The wheel bays were coated very heavily on my car).
I used a heat gun to remove most and then a sander and hand finish to remove
the residue. You must remove it all or else it will react with the primer
coat.
As a matter of interest following completion of weding I painted "red lead"
paint over the whole substructure prior to primer and colour coat.
Regards
Alan (UK)
BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: Silas Elash <spe00@amdahl.com>
To: healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: 26 June 2000 23:09
Subject: Seeking advice: To blast or not to blast
>
>Hello,
>
>I have been watching the list as I have been stripping my BJ7 down to the
frame.
>One more day and it is clean (can't say as much for my garage!).
>
>I have some major front end frame repair to do which will entail new front
>frame rails. I was palnning on getting the car blasted before I do the
>welding and replacements so I can get a good feel for how much rust is
>really present - I have heard that you never really know until you have
>it blasted clean. I have also heard that you should complete all
>replacements/welding before you get the car blasted. I am leaning towrads
>blasting the car clean and primering it the next day -this means I would
have
>to fight some primer when cutting/welding. I think I would rather work on
a clean
>car.
>
>Blast then weld or Weld then blast?
>Any thoughts on the subject?
>
>63 BJ7
>--
>Silas Elash email: Silas_Elash@amdahl.com
>Staff System Design Engineer phone:(408) 746-6536
>Connectivity Development fax:(408) 746-8502
>Amdahl Corporation
>
From M Brouillette <mbrouill at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 08:20:11 -0400
Subject: Flying A hubcaps
Anyone have any old flying A emblem hubcaps for a steel wheel Healey
lying around that they'd like to sell for a reasonable price? I'm also
looking for hubs and other steel wheel front end parts that anyone who has
converted to wire wheels might have that they would like to sell.
Mike B
59 BT7
From lennart.nystedt at allgon.se
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 14:22:16 +0200
Subject: Events in Scotland ?
Hi all !
I'm going to spend some time in Scotland between July 18 to 28. Is there any
events during this time involving Healeys anywhere in Scotland ?
Hälsningar/Regards
Lennart Nystedt
Verification group
Allgon Systems AB
Tel direct: +46 8 540 834 09
Fax: +46 8 540 834 80
e-mail: lennart.nystedt@allgon.se
www.allgon.com
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 08:28:55 -0400
Subject: Re: Engine Oil and Food Coloring
Don Yarber wrote:
> Hi Gang:
>
> I wonder what the detrimental affect (if any ) would be to put a few drops
> of red food coloring in with your engine oil so you could more readily spot
> an oil leak? Any chemists out there?
>
> It would seem to me that other than dark brown or black, a colored engine
> oil would be very good thing to have, you could see the mark on the dipstick
> better, you could spot oil leaks better.
>
> Let's hear it!
>
> Don
> BN7
Hi Don,
Already been thought of...
We use fluorescent additives in engine oil, AC refrigerant, coolant, and
transmission fluids which glow when a UV light is shone on them.
Very effective leak detection system.
Don't you hate it when someone has already invented your invention?
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 08:54:53 -0400
Subject: Re: Battery Master Switch...
"Merchant, Adnan" wrote:
> But if the battery is not connected to chassis, how does the ignition
> circuit get completed to allow the engine to fire?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Krazy Kiwi [mailto:magicare@home.com]
> Sent: Monday, June 26, 2000 3:42 PM
> To: Neil Trelenberg
> Cc: Healey
> Subject: Re: Battery Master Switch...
>
> Hi Niel,
>
> This is how easy it is.
> 1> Open the bonnet(hood)
> 2> Remove the fuse cover
> 3> Take the spare fuse and push it in between the contacts for the 2 fuses
> in
> use. (You will hear the fuel pump run)
> 4> Jump in and have a buddy give you a push down the hill: clutch in 2nd
> gear.
> 5> Let out the clutch to bump start the engine.
> 6> Drive away.......
>
> The white with black wite stops the engine from starting. :-)
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
Hi Adnan,
The generator is self exciting (known on the west island as wanker) and
creates a voltage at the coil. The points close the voltage goes to ground and
back to the generator. You can easily test this by disconnecting your pattery
while the engine is running. As long as it is above idle it will keep going.
A far as the secondary side of the coil is concerned I don't know.
The wierd thing about a coil is that it will operate perfectly dangling in mid
air hanging from one HT and 2 LT wires. What completes the HT circuit?
If some one knows please share the knowledge.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From Ed Santoro <esantoro at drbc.state.nj.us>
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 09:10:49 -0700
Subject: Re: Seeking advice: To blast or not to blast
Silas: In my opinion - blast, prime and then weld. There are a number of
weldable
primers which you can use after you blast the area cleanly. Welds are strongest
when
the area is clean and free of any rust. The car should be primed as soon as
possible
after blasting. as an option, if you can't get all the pitting clean use some
type of
rust mordant or fixer. These fix the remaining rust black. Then prime and
weld. I
hope this helps. EDS
Silas Elash wrote:
> Hello,
>
> I have been watching the list as I have been stripping my BJ7 down to the
>frame.
> One more day and it is clean (can't say as much for my garage!).
>
> I have some major front end frame repair to do which will entail new front
> frame rails. I was palnning on getting the car blasted before I do the
> welding and replacements so I can get a good feel for how much rust is
> really present - I have heard that you never really know until you have
> it blasted clean. I have also heard that you should complete all
> replacements/welding before you get the car blasted. I am leaning towrads
> blasting the car clean and primering it the next day -this means I would have
> to fight some primer when cutting/welding. I think I would rather work on a
>clean
> car.
>
> Blast then weld or Weld then blast?
> Any thoughts on the subject?
>
> 63 BJ7
> --
> Silas Elash email: Silas_Elash@amdahl.com
> Staff System Design Engineer phone:(408) 746-6536
> Connectivity Development fax:(408) 746-8502
> Amdahl Corporation
From Joseph Elmer <Joelmer at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 10:32:00 -0400
Subject: Re: 3.54 rear
Michael: I take it this means that if you have a 4.1 axle and are turning 3000
rpm, that switching to a 3.54 axle would give you the same speed at 3.54/4.1 x
3000 = 2590 rpm? Joe Elmer, 53BN1
Michael Lempert wrote:
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
> To: <mdlempert@worldnet.att.net>
> Sent: Monday, June 26, 2000 8:30 PM
> Subject: Re: 3.54 rear
>
> > I would like to know if it will fit in a late BN1 differenial. Also, how
> > much will it cost? What would be the reduction in rpm's by %?
> >
> > Thanks--Michael
> >
>
> Michael:
>
> The ratio would be a 3.5 (12/42), which is approximately .4 lower than the
> original 3.909 (11/43) found on the 3000 models. That would indicate a
> 10.25% reduction.
>
> The 100-six had a 4.1 (not sure of gear ratio), thus the reduction would be
> 14.6%
>
> To my understanding, the BN1 and BN2 models had two different ratios; a
> 4.125 (8/33) and then a 4.1 (10/41) which came at chassis 221536, thus
> reductions of 14.6% would apply here as well.
>
> My understanding has been that the gears are interchangeable for all Big
> Healeys. I'm copying this response to the list hoping that the experts will
> confirm or correct my data and assumptions. The unit I sent to the
> manufacturer to model from was from a 3000.
>
> Once again, the price is expected to be $220 per set - 3.5 (12/42). I need
> to commit to 100 sets. At first I was not optimistic at all. However,
> interest has been growing and we are now at the 20% point.
>
> Regards,
> Mike L.
> Bridgewater, NJ
From Joseph Elmer <Joelmer at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 10:42:49 -0400
Subject: Re: 3.54 rear
Jim: Does the entire rear axle/diff fit into a BN1 or did you swap just the
carrier, ring and pinion?
JISah102 wrote:
> When I put the 3.9 diff from a 3000 into my late BN1 I had the same problem.
> Here is how I did it. While I had the diff out, I drilled and tapped the
> housing in the same location for a 3/8-24 plug. The wall is thick enough
> for this, and I safety wired the plug just as a precaution. Be careful to
> remove all the chips. No welding needed. Another way is to add the oil
> through the breather hole in top of the axle housing, but no way to check
> the level.
>
> Jim
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Andy King <healey-100@hawaii.rr.com>
> To: Michael Lempert <mdlempert@worldnet.att.net>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2000 1:24 AM
> Subject: Re: 3.54 rear
>
> >
> the only problem you might have in
> > doing this conversion is if your rear end has a square lug oil filler plug
> > in the center differential carrier when you drop in the later type 3000
> 3.54
> > pumpkin you will loose the oil filler plug. I pour my oil in by removing
> the
> > axel and squirting it in from the side. I should have taken the whole 3000
> > rear end then I could fill it from the three thousand's filler plug on the
> > axel housing. I will someday drill a hole and weld in a filler plug like
> > the three thousand unit . >
> >
From Joseph Elmer <Joelmer at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 10:44:49 -0400
Subject: Re: 3.54 rear
Is there anything else that will fit the early BN1's and provide a 3.5 ratio?
JISah102 wrote:
> The 3000 diff and/or gearset will fit the late BN1's with the 5 stud hub,
> but not the early BN1 with the 4 stub hub.
>
> Jim
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Michael Lempert <mdlempert@worldnet.att.net>
> To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, June 26, 2000 10:43 PM
> Subject: Re: 3.54 rear
>
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
> > To: <mdlempert@worldnet.att.net>
> > Sent: Monday, June 26, 2000 8:30 PM
> > Subject: Re: 3.54 rear
> >
> > > I would like to know if it will fit in a late BN1 differenial. Also,
> how
> > > much will it cost? What would be the reduction in rpm's by %?
> > >
> > > Thanks--Michael
> > >
> >
> > Michael:
> >
> > The ratio would be a 3.5 (12/42), which is approximately .4 lower than
> the
> > original 3.909 (11/43) found on the 3000 models. That would indicate a
> > 10.25% reduction.
> >
> > The 100-six had a 4.1 (not sure of gear ratio), thus the reduction would
> be
> > 14.6%
> >
> > To my understanding, the BN1 and BN2 models had two different ratios; a
> > 4.125 (8/33) and then a 4.1 (10/41) which came at chassis 221536, thus
> > reductions of 14.6% would apply here as well.
> >
> > My understanding has been that the gears are interchangeable for all Big
> > Healeys. I'm copying this response to the list hoping that the experts
> will
> > confirm or correct my data and assumptions. The unit I sent to the
> > manufacturer to model from was from a 3000.
> >
> > Once again, the price is expected to be $220 per set - 3.5 (12/42). I
> need
> > to commit to 100 sets. At first I was not optimistic at all. However,
> > interest has been growing and we are now at the 20% point.
> >
> > Regards,
> > Mike L.
> > Bridgewater, NJ
> >
From Ward Stebner <liason at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 08:52:11 -0600
Subject: ATW Actual Sighting (Longish)
Good day folks, I have just returned from Banff, AB Canada where my
family was lucky enough to meet the all of Team Healey. Anyone on route
that will meet these folks is in for an interesting adventure. Both of
the Healeys are being driven and navigated by the exact type of people
that we all love being associated with. First the Hunt's. Both Peter
and Ann are perfect spokespersons for both the Rally and the Austin
Healeys involved. My wife, myself and our two boys had the opportunity
to be present and watch all of the cars in the rally arrive in Banff.
We then went out for supper with Colin Martindale of Calgary and both
sets of Healey drivers. The next day, Colin Martindale, Peter Hunt and
myself (Ward Stebner) had the lovely task of changing leaf springs on
both sides of Peter's Healey. Peter had decided to go with a Mark III
spring setup, which caused us some problems but after a few hours (6) we
had the Healey back on it's wheels ready to take on the tough mountain
roads of the interior of British Columbia. My family and I then got to
spend the rest of the day with the Hunt's touring around Banff. Both
Peter and Ann were very nice to be around, our children found thier
accents most entertaining. I hope at some point to meet them again,
they are very fine Healey people.
Rick Dyke-Price and Stuart Onyett are the drivers of the other Austin
Healey. Both of these gentlemen are very nice as well. We didn't get
to spend as much time with them as we did with the Hunt's but they were
both very easy to talk with and again very good Healey people. The
underlying story about Rick is that he cleans his car too much (if you
can). The car does not look like it has spent 50 odd days travelling
around the world.
In closing, I would just like to thank the following people for
making my experience with the Around the World Rally a perfect success.
Jim Werner for his early work notifying us of the Rally and setting
up all of the service needs.
Bob Brown for stepping up to the plate and taking over for Jim. Bob
had some big shoes to fill but seems to be doing an excellent job!
Ann, Peter, Rick and Stuart, the memories for myself and my family
will last forever.
The one thing that sticks in my mind after the Rally has come and
gone through my life is that the little cars bring people together. But,
once the people are together, many form long term relationships that
possibly outlive the cars and now with the internet, may last forever.
With the images of the Healeys speeding away still in my mind!
Ward Stebner
Saskatoon, SK Canada
From Peter Brauen <pbrauen at telepak.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 09:49:58 -0500
Subject: Re: Flying A hubcaps
Hi Mike,
I have what amounts to a full set from hubs to wheels to hubcaps. Let me
know which pieces you want and we'll make a deal!---Peter (BMC Restorations
/MS)
-----Original Message-----
From: M Brouillette <mbrouill@ix.netcom.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, June 27, 2000 7:57 AM
Subject: Flying A hubcaps
Anyone have any old flying A emblem hubcaps for a steel wheel Healey
lying around that they'd like to sell for a reasonable price? I'm also
looking for hubs and other steel wheel front end parts that anyone who
has
converted to wire wheels might have that they would like to sell.
Mike B
59 BT7
From Joseph Elmer <Joelmer at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 11:11:39 -0400
Subject: dzuz hood fasteners
Does anyone still make (or sell) the C-shaped hook hood fasteners used
on the 100M (p.41 of Clausager's book)? Joe Elmer.
From Joseph Elmer <Joelmer at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 11:45:36 -0400
Subject: Re: dzuz hood fasteners
Ooops - meant to type 100S.
Joseph Elmer wrote:
> Does anyone still make (or sell) the C-shaped hook hood fasteners used
> on the 100M (p.41 of Clausager's book)? Joe Elmer.
From Norman Cay <normcay at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 09:20:53 -0700
Subject: colors
Can someone direct me to the color information chart. thought i had it
bookmarked but cannot locate it now.
thanks very much,
norm - bn1
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 13:47:38 EDT
Subject: Re: Jerry Coker
In a message dated 6/17/00 5:45:56 AM, bobmac@i1.net writes:
<< Jerry Coker and Roger Menadue were lent a
Austin Healey to drive from Oklahoma City to Grand Lake a few years ago
for a Tri-Healey meet. My impression was they both enjoyed it immensely.
Don't know how old he is/was but didn't hear any comments about him
'racing' the car. I don't know if he ever drove race cars. >>
Just to toss in my two cents -- Gerry Coker and Bic Healey drove one of my
Healeys to Lake Tahoe in 92(?). Gerry isn't the type of person to manhandle
anyone's car. And he is still very much of a driving age -- but whether he
really wants a Healey except maybe to drive at and around a meet, I'm not
sure.
Cheers
Gary
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 13:53:26 EDT
Subject: Re: RE: Jerry Coker
In a message dated 6/17/00 4:47:56 PM, brad@bradw.com writes:
<< I'm wondering what other makes or models did Gerry Coker design? Was the
Sprite his also? Both Bugeye and square type? >>
Gerry did the original designs for the Bugeye up to the point where they
began to do pre-production planning -- he had intended that the headlights be
retractable a la the later Lotus Elan, but the design was for a mechanical
lever action and the accountants decided it would be too expensive, so
someone else did the redesign of the actual bug-eyes. By that time, Gerry
had left to move to America. If memory serves, he was originally going to
take a job with American Motors, but they were having troubles by 1957 and
the job wasn't there when he arrived, so he went to work for Ford Motor
Company as an engineering designer, where he stayed until he retired. He was
at Ford when I worked there briefly in 1969. About that time he designed the
"two-way" tail gate used on the Ford Galaxy and LTD station wagons.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 13:57:09 EDT
Subject: Re: Knock-offs
In a message dated 6/18/00 5:42:53 PM, david@cablelogic.com.au writes:
<< which side is "near side" and which side is "off side".
My car was original LHD delivered to the US then imported to Oz(around the
mid 80's) and converted to RHD. So what side is what? >>
"Near side" and "off side" refer to the relationship between the car and the
kerb in England -- or so I was told by Gerry Coker. Therefore, the "near
side" would be the left side and the "off-side" would be the right side.
Now someone will tell me I have them bass-ackwards, of course.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 15:03:01 EDT
Subject: Re: Help on getting my car finished up.
In a message dated 6/20/00 12:34:06 PM, armynavy@gte.net writes:
<<
> 2) I am told that the only way to get new kickpanels for the interior is to
> buy the door panels too. >>
The kick panels are very simple to make if you can find a good matching
vinyl. Just cut a lightweight hardboard panel to match the old panel and
cover it with the vinyl. The left hand side is solid and the right hand side
has an opening (perhaps to offer an extra half inch of space for RHD cars),
with vinyl glued to the metal inner fender behind the panel covering the
space left by the opening.
Cheers
gary
From pcowper at webtv.net (Peter Cowper)
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 12:53:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Battery Master Switch
When I bought my 1960 BT7 in February 1968, the black & white wire had
been snipped in two about six inches down the lead from the distributor.
After all these years I have finally found out what it does. I suppose
there must have been a short in the wiring harness coming under the car
causing someone to just cut the wire. After 32 years, "if it ain't
broke don't fix it" I guess.
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
From "Scheuble, Fred J., HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 16:01:24 -0400
Subject: chrome plating
ever think about chrome plating your own parts, I have been using a plating
system (no affiliation with) a system devised by Mike Caswell and the kits
are very reasonable. Take a look
www.caswellplating.com
Thanks,
Fred
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 15:08:35 -0500
Subject: Self-excitation
Hi Mike,
Thanks for the explanation - I didn't realize the generator was
self-exciting.
However, even with the cut-off switch doing it's thing, it is utterly easy
to defeat this "protection". All one has to do is unplug the wire from the
coil and distributor and connect those two points with a piece of wire or
clip leads. I suppose they were relying on ignorance on the part of the
thieving population.
Am I overlooking something?
As for the HT side of the coil, one end must be connected to one of the LT
terminals. Haven't actually ohmed it out to be certain. Anyone tried it?
Thanks,
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Salter [mailto:magicare@home.com]
Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2000 5:55 AM
To: Merchant, Adnan
Cc: Healey
Subject: Re: Battery Master Switch...
Hi Adnan,
The generator is self exciting (known on the west island as wanker) and
creates a voltage at the coil. The points close the voltage goes to ground
and
back to the generator. You can easily test this by disconnecting your
pattery
while the engine is running. As long as it is above idle it will keep going.
A far as the secondary side of the coil is concerned I don't know.
The wierd thing about a coil is that it will operate perfectly dangling in
mid
air hanging from one HT and 2 LT wires. What completes the HT circuit?
If some one knows please share the knowledge.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 18:01:15 -0400
Subject: Fuel line question?
Can anyone tell me the size/designation/name of the fittings used to connect
to the fuel tank and to the fuel pump?
After spending $5 at the local parts store I can attest that it is not 5/16"
Edelman fitting. While 5/16" compression fittings look like they ought to
fit, the thread size is finer than that on my supposed BT7 tricarb.
Lee
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 18:28:14 EDT
Subject: Re: 3.54 rear (speed/RPM)
There is an awesome tool online for us at: http://www.teamhealeytexas.com/
The calculator lets you enter your tire size, gearing, overdrive, etc. and
will calculate your speed/RPM. Very cool item.
Here are some diameters to plug in (from the Blegrass club site):
175 x 15 - 26" (diameter)
165 x 15 - 25.3"
185/70 x 15 - 25.5"
195/70 x 15 - 25.8"
195/65 x 15 - 24.8"
I'm driving a BN6 with 3.54 gears (had to shell out $500.00 for the whole
"pumpkin") just last friday I switched from 195/60 tires (making the ratio
about the same as 3.91/1 gears) to 165/SR tires, bringing the gearing back to
really tall. So my recollection of the difference is this-week-fresh.
Rick
San Diego
In a message dated 6/27/00 7:34:45 AM, Joelmer@worldnet.att.net writes:
<<
Michael: I take it this means that if you have a 4.1 axle and are turning
3000
rpm, that switching to a 3.54 axle would give you the same speed at 3.54/4.1 x
3000 = 2590 rpm? Joe Elmer, 53BN1 >>
From JXLmail at aol.com
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 18:29:06 EDT
Subject: Re: 3.54 rear
All,
You can use the spread sheet on the Texas Clubs WEB site to compute what our
RPM and speed would be if you converted the rear.
Jim
56 BN2
From JPierce <jpierce at enol.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 18:17:21 -0600
Subject: Re: Outer sill and frame piece
I will Third this.
Jeff
skip saunders wrote:
> I second this... His metal fit nicely...
>
> Todd S Taylor wrote:
> >
> > I bought all my sills and metal pieces from Everett Smith, Vintage
>Automotive....530-496-3200 e-mail: vintage@sisqtel.net
> > He has a catalog that shows each piece. I've bought both side sills,
>floors, out-riggers etc.... from them... I've also had my rear fenders
> > fixed by him. He does nice work.... reasonable also....
> >
> > 1959 100-6
> > 1980 MGB Liminted
> > 1996 Audi A4
> >
> > "jim t.p. ryan" wrote:
> >
> > > I need to replace the outer sill on the right side of the car, would Moss
>be the best source for this? Also, uner the car, about midway up the front
>fender is a square piece running from the main frame to the outer part of the
>car where the front fender attaches. Looks like part of the frame. This is
>completly rusted out. Is there a replacement for this piece or does it need
>to be fabricated?
> > >
> > > Jim
> > >
> > >
>___________________________________________________________________________
> > > Visit http://www.visto.com/info, your free web-based communications
>center.
> > > Visto.com. Life on the Dot.
From BigHealey64 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 20:16:54 EDT
Subject: Some Healey parts for sale:
>From the box of parts in the basement - contact me if you're interested:
Drainage channel - pretty good shape
Console (Late model) - fair shape, has ash tray and finish strips, but with
some rust. Vinyl in rough shape. Metal base is okay, with some kinks and
radio installation modifications.
Hinged Armrest - Model? I think the 100-6's had this. Fair - poor shape.
Horn Button - Very good shape. Probably from early cars, with "lightning
bolt", no other writing.
Randy
64 BJ8
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at cyberlink.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 19:35:53 -0500
Subject: Re: Fuel line question?
Hi Lee,
I have been following your thread now for a month or so it seems, and it
doesn't sound like your haven much fun yet. Did you buy this as is, sight
unseen or is the PO helping you sort out these frustrating problems. I can
only imagine what other happy times this car may have hinden away for you
later. Sure hope you get some drive time in you sure have waited long
enough.
Good Luck sincerely. Suggest getting as many Healey books and manuals
as possible. Gary
Anderson has an excellent reference book that may be of some help.
Just my 2 cents. Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Lee S. Mairs <lmairs@ix.netcom.com>
To: Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2000 5:01 PM
Subject: Fuel line question?
>
> Can anyone tell me the size/designation/name of the fittings used to
connect
> to the fuel tank and to the fuel pump?
> After spending $5 at the local parts store I can attest that it is not
5/16"
> Edelman fitting. While 5/16" compression fittings look like they ought to
> fit, the thread size is finer than that on my supposed BT7 tricarb.
> Lee
>
>
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 20:50:03 EDT
Subject: Re: RE: Big Healey vs. Triumph TR6
In a message dated 6/22/00 7:23:51 AM, RobertH148@aol.com writes:
<< I have to disagree with your statement that Healeys won more races that
TR6's. In the mid-60's, the Group44 TR6's with Bob Tullius won most of the
races they entered and regularly beat the few Healeys that were running on
the East Coast at the time. There was a Healey raced by Jerry Truitt that was
quite fast and was highly competitive at the time, but few others. >>
You're both right -- The big Healeys did much better in long-distance
European road rallies than the TR6s, but the TR6s were better on the track.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From Bill Pollock <wjpollock at erols.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 21:31:33 -0400
Subject: BN4 gearbox problem
Last winter I removed engine,tranny and od as a unit and it set in the
shed all winter until I put the unit back in two weeks ago. The only
thing done to this unit was cleaning-painting and removal of the shifter
for chroming. Now with everything back together I cannot go into
reverse,third and usually fourth gears. First and second seem to be
fine.
The brass bushing at the bottom appears a little worn,but when I ran the
car last fall there wasnt any problem at all with the gears or with
shifting. Tried to order a new bushing today but three suppliers are
out of them. Does anyone have any ideas on what the problem might
be? Have tried shifting with the engine on and off and double
clutching,nothing works.
Thanks
Bill Pollock
59BN4
From "S.HUTCHINGS" <hutching at myna.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 21:58:26 -0400
Subject: Re; chrome plating
I'd be interested in the enviromental aspects of this...many of the
professional shops can't seem to
stay out of trouble.
Stephen
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 19:42:11 -0700
Subject: Re: BN4 gearbox problem
"Removal of the shifter for chroming" When you put the shifter back in did
it go in properly. I know it seems tooo stupid to do but when I had mine out
it was a bit of a chore to get back in (side shifter BT7). The nylon cup
that fits over the ball at the end of the shifter must fit in a socket which
has close tolerances. I seem to recall a similar situation on mine. In my
case nothing is to stupid to do....did I ever tell you the time....nahhh
another time. Oh ok, the time I put the throwout bearing arm in backwards in
my Austin (and put the tranny back in) :-) . On that note I think I'll go
out for a drive, it's a lovely evening...Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Pollock" <wjpollock@erols.com>
To: "list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2000 6:31 PM
Subject: BN4 gearbox problem
>
> Last winter I removed engine,tranny and od as a unit and it set in the
> shed all winter until I put the unit back in two weeks ago. The only
> thing done to this unit was cleaning-painting and removal of the shifter
> for chroming. Now with everything back together I cannot go into
> reverse,third and usually fourth gears. First and second seem to be
> fine.
> The brass bushing at the bottom appears a little worn,but when I ran the
> car last fall there wasnt any problem at all with the gears or with
> shifting. Tried to order a new bushing today but three suppliers are
> out of them. Does anyone have any ideas on what the problem might
> be? Have tried shifting with the engine on and off and double
> clutching,nothing works.
>
> Thanks
> Bill Pollock
> 59BN4
>
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 23:00:49 -0400
Subject: webers
Thanks for all the info on the webers. Went with Pierce they have a lot of
info and I found out this particular set up came from them origionally !
Carroll
From Robert Dobrowski <rsdslp at juno.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 18:23:38 -0700
Subject: Re: Fuel line question?
I would suspect that it is British Standard Striaght Thread Pipe.
On Tue, 27 Jun 2000 19:35:53 -0500 "Mark and kathy LaPierre"
<mgtrcars@cyberlink.com> writes:
>
> Hi Lee,
> I have been following your thread now for a month or so it seems,
> and it
> doesn't sound like your haven much fun yet. Did you buy this as is,
> sight
> unseen or is the PO helping you sort out these frustrating problems.
> I can
> only imagine what other happy times this car may have hinden away
> for you
> later. Sure hope you get some drive time in you sure have waited
> long
> enough.
>
> Good Luck sincerely. Suggest getting as many Healey books and
> manuals
> as possible. Gary
> Anderson has an excellent reference book that may be of some help.
>
> Just my 2 cents. Mark
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Lee S. Mairs <lmairs@ix.netcom.com>
> To: Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2000 5:01 PM
> Subject: Fuel line question?
>
>
> >
> > Can anyone tell me the size/designation/name of the fittings used
> to
> connect
> > to the fuel tank and to the fuel pump?
> > After spending $5 at the local parts store I can attest that it is
> not
> 5/16"
> > Edelman fitting. While 5/16" compression fittings look like they
> ought to
> > fit, the thread size is finer than that on my supposed BT7
> tricarb.
> > Lee
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
From "R. Markl/B. Council" <rmarkl at bellsouth.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 22:54:46 -0500
Subject: Re: The Leaking Gas Tank Blues
The 1960 BN7 I had 30 years ago developed pinhole leaks in the bottom of
the tank (where it touches the floor). I repaired the leaks every 6-12
months by removing the tank, sanding the area and daubing something
called Devcon cement over the area. You ought to be able to make it to
Bowie.
Rudi Markl, 100M
"Lee S. Mairs" wrote:
>
> Traveled all over Northern Virginia today trying to find a good floor jack
> to both change the tire and check out the leaking gas tank. Armed with a
> way too expensive floor jack (collapses to 4" for those ultra low sports
> cars - their words not mine) and some magic goo for fixing gas tanks, I
> ended up yanking the tank out to find a this rust line of likely leaking
> spots.
> It looks like a new tank is required, thus ending my quest to make it to the
> British Car Show in Bowie and finally meet some of my CAAHC friends appears
> doomed. My friend, the Diesel Doctor, jokingly suggested using an outboard
> motor tank in the interim. Hmmnnn. That just may do the job! A $20 eight
> gallon tank ought to get me there and back. Anyway...
> It was a bitch getting the old tank out. It had seemingly married itself to
> both the rubber gasket displayed in the Moss Motors picture and some foam
> insulation shot in during her restoration nine years ago. Any suggestions
> for related maintenance while the tank is out? I plan to rinse the trunk
> thoroughly with water, then dry it and paint the entire with a rustoleum
> type paint. The PO had used some sort of funky undercoating compound that
> is great at permanently making finger nails black.
> Lee Mairs
> Northern Virginia
> "with a tankless BT7 in the driveway..."
From "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos at email.msn.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 22:14:47 -0600
Subject: Re: Re; Re; Triple 2in SUs
But BMC owned a Company Named Skinner Union SU which sold carbs to everybody
including Triumph who switched to Strombergs when purchased by British
Leyland to avoid buying carbs from the competition. After BL purchased BMC
SU carbs magically re-appeared on TR's for a year or so.
----- Original Message -----
From: Neil Cotty <neilc@apphosting.com>
To: S.HUTCHINGS <hutching@myna.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 26, 2000 9:39 AM
Subject: Re: Re; Re; Triple 2in SUs
>
> > Surely Jaguar was not a part of BMC when the tri-carb was introduced?
>
> Jaguar became part of BMC in 1966 so you are right - no it wasn't.
>
> Cheers,
> Neil
> --
> 61 A / 70 BGT / 68 CGT/ 56 BN2
> URL: http://www.apphosting.com/mgstuff/
>
>
From "Scheuble, Fred J., HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 07:10:35 -0400
Subject: RE: Re; chrome plating
it is on such a small scale (being a physics researcher for twenty+ years I
was also concerned) were talking small parts, largest part being headlight
bezels, and the solutions are heated only to 110 F
-----Original Message-----
From: S.HUTCHINGS [mailto:hutching@myna.com]
Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2000 9:58 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re; chrome plating
I'd be interested in the enviromental aspects of this...many of the
professional shops can't seem to
stay out of trouble.
Stephen
From Bob McElwee <bobmac at i1.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 06:31:24 -0500
Subject: Re: Outer sill and frame piece
A fourth - used Everett for both the 67 and 62 metal parts.
Bob Mc
62 BT7
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 11:41:48 -0400
Subject: Re: Fuel line question?
>Did you buy this as is, sight
>unseen or is the PO helping you sort out these frustrating problems.
I did inspect the car in California and had David Nock send me a list of
what he found wrong with it. The gas tank problem no doubt started during
shipment east. The PO can't be faulted for any of the problems that I'm
uncovering. The mods are a bit frustrating - especially since fittings
cannot be found. I need a piece of old fuel pipe with one good fitting on
it. Nobody, can even identify the type of fitting used on the fuel lines,
much less carry them in stock - thus, I'm forced to pay $58 for a used fuel
line. Of course, the bright side of the coin says that I'm lucky to be able
to find one and get to pay $58 for it!
If I can find a junked fuel pump and salvage the right angle fitting from
it, I may be able to avoid using the $58 line. The only reason I continue
to look is that I hurt my back recently and can't bend over to install the
new fuel line. As soon as my back is better, the search ends and I
hopefully get her running.
Lee
From "Scheuble, Fred J., HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 12:18:43 -0400
Subject: RE: Fuel line question?
I wouldn't drive the Healy with a hurt back!
-----Original Message-----
From: Lee S. Mairs [mailto:lmairs@ix.netcom.com]
Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2000 11:42 AM
To: Mark and kathy LaPierre; Healey
Subject: Re: Fuel line question?
>Did you buy this as is, sight
>unseen or is the PO helping you sort out these frustrating problems.
I did inspect the car in California and had David Nock send me a list of
what he found wrong with it. The gas tank problem no doubt started during
shipment east. The PO can't be faulted for any of the problems that I'm
uncovering. The mods are a bit frustrating - especially since fittings
cannot be found. I need a piece of old fuel pipe with one good fitting on
it. Nobody, can even identify the type of fitting used on the fuel lines,
much less carry them in stock - thus, I'm forced to pay $58 for a used fuel
line. Of course, the bright side of the coin says that I'm lucky to be able
to find one and get to pay $58 for it!
If I can find a junked fuel pump and salvage the right angle fitting from
it, I may be able to avoid using the $58 line. The only reason I continue
to look is that I hurt my back recently and can't bend over to install the
new fuel line. As soon as my back is better, the search ends and I
hopefully get her running.
Lee
From hm.heim at t-online.de (Helga & Martin Heim)
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 19:42:53 +0200
Subject: Re: colors
The great Austin Healey Colour Guide is from:
Don Pikovnik
E-Mail-Adress donp@ncweb.com
Regards
Martin
Germany
----- Original Message -----
From: "Norman Cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2000 6:20 PM
Subject: colors
>
> Can someone direct me to the color information chart. thought i had it
> bookmarked but cannot locate it now.
> thanks very much,
> norm - bn1
>
From "Keith R. Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 16:24:13 -0400
Subject: Re: Fuel line question?
I would!
Scheuble, Fred J., HiServ/NA wrote:
>
> I wouldn't drive the Healy with a hurt back!
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Lee S. Mairs [mailto:lmairs@ix.netcom.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2000 11:42 AM
> To: Mark and kathy LaPierre; Healey
> Subject: Re: Fuel line question?
>
> >Did you buy this as is, sight
> >unseen or is the PO helping you sort out these frustrating problems.
>
> I did inspect the car in California and had David Nock send me a list of
> what he found wrong with it. The gas tank problem no doubt started during
> shipment east. The PO can't be faulted for any of the problems that I'm
> uncovering. The mods are a bit frustrating - especially since fittings
> cannot be found. I need a piece of old fuel pipe with one good fitting on
> it. Nobody, can even identify the type of fitting used on the fuel lines,
> much less carry them in stock - thus, I'm forced to pay $58 for a used fuel
> line. Of course, the bright side of the coin says that I'm lucky to be able
> to find one and get to pay $58 for it!
>
> If I can find a junked fuel pump and salvage the right angle fitting from
> it, I may be able to avoid using the $58 line. The only reason I continue
> to look is that I hurt my back recently and can't bend over to install the
> new fuel line. As soon as my back is better, the search ends and I
> hopefully get her running.
> Lee
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 18:10:54 -0400
Subject: Re: Fuel line question?
"Lee S. Mairs" wrote:
> Can anyone tell me the size/designation/name of the fittings used to connect
> to the fuel tank and to the fuel pump?
> After spending $5 at the local parts store I can attest that it is not 5/16"
> Edelman fitting. While 5/16" compression fittings look like they ought to
> fit, the thread size is finer than that on my supposed BT7 tricarb.
> Lee
I believe the fittings are B.S.T. (British Standard Tube).
The nipple end is silver soldered onto the tubing and a special nut is used.
We have the straight ones in stock. Check for NIP001 on the site below , parts
index, Austin Healey 100, 100/6, 3000.
The right angle one is, as far as I am aware not available.
With careful bending you can make a piece of tubing work fine.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 18:32:53 -0400
Subject: Re: 3.54 rear
Joseph Elmer wrote:
> Is there anything else that will fit the early BN1's and provide a 3.5 ratio?
>
> JISah102 wrote:
>
> > The 3000 diff and/or gearset will fit the late BN1's with the 5 stud hub,
> > but not the early BN1 with the 4 stub hub.
> >
> > Jim
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Michael Lempert <mdlempert@worldnet.att.net>
> > To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Monday, June 26, 2000 10:43 PM
> > Subject: Re: 3.54 rear
> >
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
> > > To: <mdlempert@worldnet.att.net>
> > > Sent: Monday, June 26, 2000 8:30 PM
> > > Subject: Re: 3.54 rear
> > >
> > > > I would like to know if it will fit in a late BN1 differenial. Also,
> > how
> > > > much will it cost? What would be the reduction in rpm's by %?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks--Michael
> > > >
> > >
> > > Michael:
> > >
> > > The ratio would be a 3.5 (12/42), which is approximately .4 lower than
> > the
> > > original 3.909 (11/43) found on the 3000 models. That would indicate a
> > > 10.25% reduction.
> > >
> > > The 100-six had a 4.1 (not sure of gear ratio), thus the reduction would
> > be
> > > 14.6%
> > >
> > > To my understanding, the BN1 and BN2 models had two different ratios; a
> > > 4.125 (8/33) and then a 4.1 (10/41) which came at chassis 221536, thus
> > > reductions of 14.6% would apply here as well.
> > >
> > > My understanding has been that the gears are interchangeable for all Big
> > > Healeys. I'm copying this response to the list hoping that the experts
> > will
> > > confirm or correct my data and assumptions. The unit I sent to the
> > > manufacturer to model from was from a 3000.
> > >
> > > Once again, the price is expected to be $220 per set - 3.5 (12/42). I
> > need
> > > to commit to 100 sets. At first I was not optimistic at all. However,
> > > interest has been growing and we are now at the 20% point.
> > >
> > > Regards,
> > > Mike L.
> > > Bridgewater, NJ
> > >
The only diff that I know of that will fit the early BN1 is from an Austin
Atlantic Convertible. I believe it is 3.55 / 1 (I run one in my 100S for short
tracks.)
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 18:41:06 -0400
Subject: Re: dzuz hood fasteners
Joseph Elmer wrote:
> Ooops - meant to type 100S.
>
> Joseph Elmer wrote:
>
> > Does anyone still make (or sell) the C-shaped hook hood fasteners used
> > on the 100M (p.41 of Clausager's book)? Joe Elmer.
The 100S hood fastners appear to have been hand made for the cars. They
consist of a tube braized to a plate which is bolted to the inside of the
firewall. Through the tube is a piece of 1/4" dia bar with a washer on the
bottom, then a spring, below the tube, then the top of the bar bent over in
two 90 degree bends. The sockets in the bonnet are just bolts with the head
machined to the shape you see.
If you need any further detail I may be able to take some measurements.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From Ian Nelson <ian at Remedy.COM>
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 16:33:53 -0700
Subject: Sudden Shut-Down
Thanks to everyone for the advice regarding the sudden shut-down problem my
Healey is experiencing.
Just as a recap...this was the problem of the car suddenly shutting off. No
sputtering or coughing. Just a quick shut down as if someone had thrown an
"Off" switch. I've received advice to check everything from the Battery
forward.
At this point I'm still not sure what is causing the problem. One
interesting thing happened last night however.
I took the car out for spin to see if the problem would reproduce itself.
The car ran fine until I was pulling in to park for the night.
Just as I was about to stop, the car died again. Nice that it waited until I
was home! I parked the car and tried the ignition. Nothing happened. No
starter, no electricity at all. I decided that I would put the headlight
switch to the on position hoping that when I jiggled the right wire, the
headlights would turn on and I would have identified my problem. Being that
it was dark out I pulled out a flashlight and was looking to set it down in
the engine compartment in a spot that would illuminate the right spot. Just
as I set it down on the voltage regulator cover, the headlights on the car
turned on.
Is it possible that the voltage regulator is the culprit? What should I look
for to determine if it is indeed causing the problem?
Thanks again,
Ian Nelson
Healey Blue '58 100-6
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 20:00:56 -0400
Subject: For Reid Trummel
STBTL --
Reid, please contact me. Thanks.
Steve Byers
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 20:02:29 EDT
Subject: Classic and Sports car
The Classic and sports car July issue (to be on the news stands on July 6)
will feature an article about the Austin-Healey 3000 and the Sprit.
Also, the July/August issue of Vintage Motor Sport has a racing photo on page
#83, as part of an article on Sears Point vintage racing, of Mark Welsh's
Sprit and Gary Black's BN7.
John
100-Six Erika the Red
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 21:24:06 -0400
Subject: RX shocks
My turn for a question,
I found a pair of Healey front shocks in our pile of cores with RX cast
on the side in letters about 1" high.
These are the same as the ones on the front of my 100S.
Anyone know what RX stands for?
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
From JXLmail at aol.com
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 21:33:52 EDT
Subject: Re: 3.54 rear
Would a dif from an Austin Princess?
Jim
56 BN2
From Joseph Elmer <Joelmer at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 21:48:32 -0400
Subject: Re: dzuz hood fasteners
Thanks Michael. I assumed they were Dzus (Dzuz?) manufactured products. What
your describing is a lot of work (the "C" loops and the machined bolt heads
have to be chromed also) but nobody seems to know anything about them so you
may be right (especially since you own a 100S!).
Michael Salter wrote:
> Joseph Elmer wrote:
>
> > Ooops - meant to type 100S.
> >
> > Joseph Elmer wrote:
> >
> > > Does anyone still make (or sell) the C-shaped hook hood fasteners used
> > > on the 100M (p.41 of Clausager's book)? Joe Elmer.
>
> The 100S hood fastners appear to have been hand made for the cars. They
> consist of a tube braized to a plate which is bolted to the inside of the
> firewall. Through the tube is a piece of 1/4" dia bar with a washer on the
> bottom, then a spring, below the tube, then the top of the bar bent over in
> two 90 degree bends. The sockets in the bonnet are just bolts with the head
> machined to the shape you see.
> If you need any further detail I may be able to take some measurements.
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 18:58:17 -0400
Subject: Re: BN4 gearbox problem
Bill,
Considering that the only thing you did to the box was to remove
and replace the shifter, I would check first that you have it installed
correctly. The brass bushing goes over the bottom end of the shifter
and should be seated in socket on the control shaft.
If you misaligned the shifter when you reinstalled it, you won't be able
to move the linkage out of the 1st-2nd gear plane.
If you have a BMC shop manual, look at the diagram on page F.2.
You should be able to see what I am talking about.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1963 BJ7
1980 MGB
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Pollock <wjpollock@erols.com>
To: list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2000 9:31 PM
Subject: BN4 gearbox problem
>
> Last winter I removed engine,tranny and od as a unit and it set in the
> shed all winter until I put the unit back in two weeks ago. The only
> thing done to this unit was cleaning-painting and removal of the shifter
> for chroming. Now with everything back together I cannot go into
> reverse,third and usually fourth gears. First and second seem to be
> fine.
> The brass bushing at the bottom appears a little worn,but when I ran the
> car last fall there wasnt any problem at all with the gears or with
> shifting. Tried to order a new bushing today but three suppliers are
> out of them. Does anyone have any ideas on what the problem might
> be? Have tried shifting with the engine on and off and double
> clutching,nothing works.
>
> Thanks
> Bill Pollock
> 59BN4
>
>
From Gene Schaeffer <gene356 at flash.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 21:56:43 -0500
Subject: One Owner 1967 BJ8 AH 3000 For Sale
Don't let this car go to Europe.
BRG/Blk interior
under 100,000 original miles $16,500.
Texas car
Pictures and more detailed description to serious buyers.
From "Joe Chretien" <bighealey at capecod.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 06:17:04 -0400
Subject: RE: Sudden Shut-Down
I had a problem some years back that was similar that when after driving for
a while I turn the car off and it would not start again. After sitting for
15 or 20 minutes it would start right up. The problem was the bakelite
bushing on the distributor was cracked and a piece was missing and once in a
while the coil wire passing thru the bushing would short out. I replaced it
and it has never happened again. This might be something to check out, cause
if it happened while running it would just die on the spot.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Ian Nelson
Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2000 7:34 PM
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Subject: Sudden Shut-Down
Thanks to everyone for the advice regarding the sudden shut-down problem my
Healey is experiencing.
Just as a recap...this was the problem of the car suddenly shutting off. No
sputtering or coughing. Just a quick shut down as if someone had thrown an
"Off" switch. I've received advice to check everything from the Battery
forward.
At this point I'm still not sure what is causing the problem. One
interesting thing happened last night however.
I took the car out for spin to see if the problem would reproduce itself.
The car ran fine until I was pulling in to park for the night.
Just as I was about to stop, the car died again. Nice that it waited until I
was home! I parked the car and tried the ignition. Nothing happened. No
starter, no electricity at all. I decided that I would put the headlight
switch to the on position hoping that when I jiggled the right wire, the
headlights would turn on and I would have identified my problem. Being that
it was dark out I pulled out a flashlight and was looking to set it down in
the engine compartment in a spot that would illuminate the right spot. Just
as I set it down on the voltage regulator cover, the headlights on the car
turned on.
Is it possible that the voltage regulator is the culprit? What should I look
for to determine if it is indeed causing the problem?
Thanks again,
Ian Nelson
Healey Blue '58 100-6
From Frank Castleberry <ftcastle at bellsouth.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 19:27:36 -0400
Subject: '67 BJ8 project for sale
I have a '67 BJ8 with 73828 miles. Partially dismantled and garaged for
the last 25 years. Extra engine and miscellaneous parts. Car is in
metro Atlanta. Contact me directly if interested.
ftcastle@bellsouth.net
From skip saunders <tfs at mitre.org>
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 07:45:34 -0400
Subject: Re: Sudden Shut-Down
I had a similar set of symptoms... driving along fine, then everything
would just cut out... the car would sputter while inertia tried to keep
the engine running, but if you put in the clutch, the engine would
die. And all electrics would stop.
The problem turned out to be the ignition switch...Eventually I found
that jiggling the key would bring the car back to life. If you were
quick enough with the jiggling, you could get the engine to bump start
itself before the car coasted to a stop. It gradually got worse and
worse until I finally had to spring for a new switch.....
(just another version of Lucas electrics problems... I mention it
because there are a lot of "possibly broke things" that can provide you
with the same symptoms.)
-Skip-
Joe Chretien wrote:
>
> I had a problem some years back that was similar that when after driving for
> a while I turn the car off and it would not start again. After sitting for
> 15 or 20 minutes it would start right up. The problem was the bakelite
> bushing on the distributor was cracked and a piece was missing and once in a
> while the coil wire passing thru the bushing would short out. I replaced it
> and it has never happened again. This might be something to check out, cause
> if it happened while running it would just die on the spot.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Ian Nelson
> Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2000 7:34 PM
> To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
> Subject: Sudden Shut-Down
>
> Thanks to everyone for the advice regarding the sudden shut-down problem my
> Healey is experiencing.
> Just as a recap...this was the problem of the car suddenly shutting off. No
> sputtering or coughing. Just a quick shut down as if someone had thrown an
> "Off" switch. I've received advice to check everything from the Battery
> forward.
>
> At this point I'm still not sure what is causing the problem. One
> interesting thing happened last night however.
> I took the car out for spin to see if the problem would reproduce itself.
> The car ran fine until I was pulling in to park for the night.
> Just as I was about to stop, the car died again. Nice that it waited until I
> was home! I parked the car and tried the ignition. Nothing happened. No
> starter, no electricity at all. I decided that I would put the headlight
> switch to the on position hoping that when I jiggled the right wire, the
> headlights would turn on and I would have identified my problem. Being that
> it was dark out I pulled out a flashlight and was looking to set it down in
> the engine compartment in a spot that would illuminate the right spot. Just
> as I set it down on the voltage regulator cover, the headlights on the car
> turned on.
>
> Is it possible that the voltage regulator is the culprit? What should I look
> for to determine if it is indeed causing the problem?
>
> Thanks again,
> Ian Nelson
> Healey Blue '58 100-6
From Bill Holt <lbcholt at one.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 08:23:32 -0400
Subject: Re: One Owner 1967 BJ8 AH 3000 For Sale
Where is the car?
At 11:30 PM 6/28/00 -0400, Gene Schaeffer wrote:
>
>Don't let this car go to Europe.
>
>BRG/Blk interior
>under 100,000 original miles $16,500.
>Texas car
>
>Pictures and more detailed description to serious buyers.
>
From "Paul Negus" <pauln at iplbath.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 13:24:41 +0100
Subject: Re: BN4 gearbox problem
Bill
These brass bushes are an extremely tight fit. It may be that
rechroming the gear lever has increased the diameter of the ball on
the end sufficiently to prevent the bush from seating properly. I
would suggest:
1. Try removing the bush completely and operating the
transmission without it. The gear lever will be sloppy but you
should be able to select every gear. This will show whether it's the
bush.
2. Check that the bush has no burrs on its outer surfaces,
especially the base.
3. If all else fails, use a nylon bush instead and pare down the
outer diameter until it is a snug fit. (Not concours but who is to
know except us and the list?)
The brass bush in my BN4 was almost non-existent when I bought
the car due to wear. I drove the car for a couple of years like this -
you soon get to know how to feel for the 'gate' to select a gear.
Then, when I bought a new bush, I found it impossible to fit and still
be able to move the gear lever - it was solid!!! Instead, I bought a
nylon bush for a BL/Rover Mini that has similar inner and outer
diameters and pared it down to fit with a sharp craft knife. This
works a treat and is very quiet as an extra bonus.
Regards
Paul
> Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 21:31:33 -0400
> From: Bill Pollock <wjpollock@erols.com>
> Subject: BN4 gearbox problem
>
> Last winter I removed engine,tranny and od as a unit and it set in the
> shed all winter until I put the unit back in two weeks ago. The only
> thing done to this unit was cleaning-painting and removal of the shifter
> for chroming. Now with everything back together I cannot go into
> reverse,third and usually fourth gears. First and second seem to be fine.
> The brass bushing at the bottom appears a little worn,but when I ran the
> car last fall there wasnt any problem at all with the gears or with
> shifting. Tried to order a new bushing today but three suppliers are out
> of them. Does anyone have any ideas on what the problem might be? Have
> tried shifting with the engine on and off and double clutching,nothing
> works.
>
> Thanks
> Bill Pollock
> 59BN4
>
> ------------------------------
From "Paul Negus" <pauln at iplbath.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 14:13:19 +0100
Subject: Re: Knock-offs
Gary
You are spot on!
Regards
Paul
=============================================
Date sent: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 04:17:55 -0600 (MDT)
From: owner-healeys-digest@autox.team.net ()
To: healeys-digest@autox.team.net
> "Near side" and "off side" refer to the relationship between the
car and
> the kerb in England -- or so I was told by Gerry Coker.
Therefore, the
> "near side" would be the left side and the "off-side" would be the
right
> side.
>
> Now someone will tell me I have them bass-ackwards, of course.
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
>
> ------------------------------
From "Paul Negus" <pauln at iplbath.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 14:13:25 +0100
Subject: Re: Help on getting my car finished up.
Gary
As you suggest, the cutout provides that little extra room that you
need for your right foot to operate the accelerator on a RHD car.
Regards
Paul
==============================================
Date sent: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 04:17:55 -0600 (MDT)
From: owner-healeys-digest@autox.team.net ()
To: healeys-digest@autox.team.net
> Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 15:03:01 EDT
> From: Editorgary@aol.com
> Subject: Re: Help on getting my car finished up.
>
> In a message dated 6/20/00 12:34:06 PM, armynavy@gte.net writes:
>
> <<
> > 2) I am told that the only way to get new kickpanels for the interior is
> > to buy the door panels too. >>
>
> The kick panels are very simple to make if you can find a good matching
> vinyl. Just cut a lightweight hardboard panel to match the old panel and
> cover it with the vinyl. The left hand side is solid and the right hand
> side has an opening (perhaps to offer an extra half inch of space for RHD
> cars), with vinyl glued to the metal inner fender behind the panel
> covering the space left by the opening.
>
> Cheers
> gary
>
> ------------------------------
>
From "Pritchard, Donald" <dpritchard at oceprinting.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 10:00:38 -0400
Subject: Test
Test
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 10:41:58 -0400
Subject: Re: Sudden Shut-Down
Hi Ian,
I think you've got it!!!
All the power to the car is supplied through the large spade connector on the
"A" terminal of the regulator. There are 2 wires in that connector an if the
connection from the wire to the connector is bad you isolate the car wiring from
the battery.
Check that the connector and in particular the way the wires are crimped into
it.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Ian Nelson wrote:
> Thanks to everyone for the advice regarding the sudden shut-down problem my
> Healey is experiencing.
> Just as a recap...this was the problem of the car suddenly shutting off. No
> sputtering or coughing. Just a quick shut down as if someone had thrown an
> "Off" switch. I've received advice to check everything from the Battery
> forward.
>
> At this point I'm still not sure what is causing the problem. One
> interesting thing happened last night however.
> I took the car out for spin to see if the problem would reproduce itself.
> The car ran fine until I was pulling in to park for the night.
> Just as I was about to stop, the car died again. Nice that it waited until I
> was home! I parked the car and tried the ignition. Nothing happened. No
> starter, no electricity at all. I decided that I would put the headlight
> switch to the on position hoping that when I jiggled the right wire, the
> headlights would turn on and I would have identified my problem. Being that
> it was dark out I pulled out a flashlight and was looking to set it down in
> the engine compartment in a spot that would illuminate the right spot. Just
> as I set it down on the voltage regulator cover, the headlights on the car
> turned on.
>
> Is it possible that the voltage regulator is the culprit? What should I look
> for to determine if it is indeed causing the problem?
>
> Thanks again,
> Ian Nelson
> Healey Blue '58 100-6
From Joseph Elmer <Joelmer at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 10:48:47 -0400
Subject: Re: Sudden Shut-Down
Another thing you might try is to start the car on a dark night, and tap the
wires with a screwdriver and see if you spot a loose or frayed wire shorting
someplace. The spark will not be very big but if it's nice and dark you might
find something. I've used this and found plug wires arcing, and a loose
connections to the generator (done on purpose by some wise guys who didn't like
me parking in there alley in San Francisco - needless to say I kept replacing
batteries until I stumbled on the loose wire one dark night with the hood open.
If all the connections are good, you might take an ohm meter and check wires
from end-to-end to see if any have abnormally high resistance while being
tapped (flexed) a little. The problem may be inside a wire that got crimped
somehow, causing the insulation to look okay while having intermittent on the
inside. To kill the car it has to be in relatively few wires - ignition, coil,
battery, generator. Did you check all the fuses to make sure they are well
seated? If not, pop them out and reseat them just to make sure they're making
good contact. Lastly, while in the service we were told to always start with
the battery connections because 90% of the time that's where the problem was.
Good luck, Joe Elmer.
Joe Chretien wrote:
> I had a problem some years back that was similar that when after driving for
> a while I turn the car off and it would not start again. After sitting for
> 15 or 20 minutes it would start right up. The problem was the bakelite
> bushing on the distributor was cracked and a piece was missing and once in a
> while the coil wire passing thru the bushing would short out. I replaced it
> and it has never happened again. This might be something to check out, cause
> if it happened while running it would just die on the spot.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Ian Nelson
> Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2000 7:34 PM
> To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
> Subject: Sudden Shut-Down
>
> Thanks to everyone for the advice regarding the sudden shut-down problem my
> Healey is experiencing.
> Just as a recap...this was the problem of the car suddenly shutting off. No
> sputtering or coughing. Just a quick shut down as if someone had thrown an
> "Off" switch. I've received advice to check everything from the Battery
> forward.
>
> At this point I'm still not sure what is causing the problem. One
> interesting thing happened last night however.
> I took the car out for spin to see if the problem would reproduce itself.
> The car ran fine until I was pulling in to park for the night.
> Just as I was about to stop, the car died again. Nice that it waited until I
> was home! I parked the car and tried the ignition. Nothing happened. No
> starter, no electricity at all. I decided that I would put the headlight
> switch to the on position hoping that when I jiggled the right wire, the
> headlights would turn on and I would have identified my problem. Being that
> it was dark out I pulled out a flashlight and was looking to set it down in
> the engine compartment in a spot that would illuminate the right spot. Just
> as I set it down on the voltage regulator cover, the headlights on the car
> turned on.
>
> Is it possible that the voltage regulator is the culprit? What should I look
> for to determine if it is indeed causing the problem?
>
> Thanks again,
> Ian Nelson
> Healey Blue '58 100-6
From Joseph Elmer <Joelmer at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 10:58:29 -0400
Subject: Re: 3.54 rear
Jim: Possibly. The reason I asked is because there were in fact many
Austin products within the 1947-1955 time period. Also, Clausager's
book notes that the 100S used ratios of 2.69, 2.92, 3.66, and 4.125
with the 2.92 being standard, no overdrive provided. It's possible that
the gear sets for the 100S were special cut as many features of the car
are special, but it would also seem possible that the gear sets/diff's
were used in other vehicles that might match the early Healey. There
are a few sites on the net that deal with other Austin products, so I'll
poke through them as time permits and post anything I find. Joe Elmer.
JXLmail@aol.com wrote:
> Would a dif from an Austin Princess?
>
> Jim
> 56 BN2
From "Pritchard, Donald" <dpritchard at oceprinting.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 10:48:09 -0400
Subject: 1975 Jensen-Healey GT for sale
I have a 1975 Jensen-Healey GT for sale to a good home.
Vin # 30210; Manufacture date: 11/24/75
It is white with blue side stripes. Some bubble body rust.
Floors are rotten, interior needs to be restored.
Engine is in good running condition.
It is in Pennsylvania around the Gettysburg area.
Will send pictures and more details to interested individuals.
Don Pritchard
73 J-H 13825
From Peter Brauen <pbrauen at telepak.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 10:26:40 -0500
Subject: Re: 3.54 rear
Hi all,
The A90 diff will indeed fit the 100 spiral bevel axle. It has 9 teeth
on the pinion and 33 on the ring giving a ratio of 3.67:1, which would be
about an 11% reduction. Not quite the 3.5, but considerably better than
4.125! Now, who has a few A90 diffs lying around?---Peter (BMC Restorations)
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Salter <magicare@home.com>
To: Joseph Elmer <Joelmer@worldnet.att.net>
Cc: JISah102 <ah102@home.com>; Michael Lempert
<mdlempert@worldnet.att.net>; Awgertoo@aol.com <Awgertoo@aol.com>; Healey
List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, June 28, 2000 6:06 PM
Subject: Re: 3.54 rear
Joseph Elmer wrote:
> Is there anything else that will fit the early BN1's and provide a 3.5
ratio?
>
> JISah102 wrote:
>
> > The 3000 diff and/or gearset will fit the late BN1's with the 5 stud
hub,
> > but not the early BN1 with the 4 stub hub.
> >
> > Jim
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Michael Lempert <mdlempert@worldnet.att.net>
> > To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Monday, June 26, 2000 10:43 PM
> > Subject: Re: 3.54 rear
> >
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
> > > To: <mdlempert@worldnet.att.net>
> > > Sent: Monday, June 26, 2000 8:30 PM
> > > Subject: Re: 3.54 rear
> > >
> > > > I would like to know if it will fit in a late BN1 differenial.
Also,
> > how
> > > > much will it cost? What would be the reduction in rpm's by %?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks--Michael
> > > >
> > >
> > > Michael:
> > >
> > > The ratio would be a 3.5 (12/42), which is approximately .4 lower
than
> > the
> > > original 3.909 (11/43) found on the 3000 models. That would
indicate a
> > > 10.25% reduction.
> > >
> > > The 100-six had a 4.1 (not sure of gear ratio), thus the
reduction would
> > be
> > > 14.6%
> > >
> > > To my understanding, the BN1 and BN2 models had two different
ratios; a
> > > 4.125 (8/33) and then a 4.1 (10/41) which came at chassis 221536,
thus
> > > reductions of 14.6% would apply here as well.
> > >
> > > My understanding has been that the gears are interchangeable for
all Big
> > > Healeys. I'm copying this response to the list hoping that the
experts
> > will
> > > confirm or correct my data and assumptions. The unit I sent to
the
> > > manufacturer to model from was from a 3000.
> > >
> > > Once again, the price is expected to be $220 per set - 3.5
(12/42). I
> > need
> > > to commit to 100 sets. At first I was not optimistic at all.
However,
> > > interest has been growing and we are now at the 20% point.
> > >
> > > Regards,
> > > Mike L.
> > > Bridgewater, NJ
> > >
The only diff that I know of that will fit the early BN1 is from an
Austin
Atlantic Convertible. I believe it is 3.55 / 1 (I run one in my 100S for
short
tracks.)
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From "R. Markl/B. Council" <rmarkl at bellsouth.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 10:24:40 -0500
Subject: Re: BN4 gearbox problem
Perhaps it is just the thickness of the chrome on the "ball" of the
shift lever that is causing the problem. Mine wouldn't shift right
either until I removed the chrome.
Rudi Markl, 100M
Bill Pollock wrote:
>
> Last winter I removed engine,tranny and od as a unit and it set in the
> shed all winter until I put the unit back in two weeks ago. The only
> thing done to this unit was cleaning-painting and removal of the shifter
> for chroming. Now with everything back together I cannot go into
> reverse,third and usually fourth gears. First and second seem to be
> fine.
> The brass bushing at the bottom appears a little worn,but when I ran the
> car last fall there wasnt any problem at all with the gears or with
> shifting. Tried to order a new bushing today but three suppliers are
> out of them. Does anyone have any ideas on what the problem might
> be? Have tried shifting with the engine on and off and double
> clutching,nothing works.
>
> Thanks
> Bill Pollock
> 59BN4
From Martin Johnson <MJohnson at cfworks.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 08:23:51 -0700
Subject: RE: Sudden Shut-Down
Hi Ian.
About ten years ago, when I was restoring a MGTC, you couldn't get the
Lucas 9-post regulator new. If you wanted a new regulator, you had to
use the same (or similar) 7-post that we are familiar with. Anyway, I
found a second hand 9-post regulator. The problem with it was that on
the underside, the brass (?) rivets that connect the copper bars were
corroded, and I could see that the connections were faulty. Maybe your
regulator has the same problem? I saw no other way of ensuring a
connection than bridging the rivets to the bars with solder. From then
on it functioned perfectly. I never had a problem with mysterious
electrics.
Martin
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Salter [mailto:magicare@home.com]
Sent: Thursday, June 29, 2000 7:42 AM
To: Ian Nelson
Cc: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Subject: Re: Sudden Shut-Down
Hi Ian,
I think you've got it!!!
All the power to the car is supplied through the large spade connector
on the
"A" terminal of the regulator. There are 2 wires in that connector an if
the
connection from the wire to the connector is bad you isolate the car
wiring from
the battery.
Check that the connector and in particular the way the wires are crimped
into
it.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Ian Nelson wrote:
> Thanks to everyone for the advice regarding the sudden shut-down
problem my
> Healey is experiencing.
> Just as a recap...this was the problem of the car suddenly shutting
off. No
> sputtering or coughing. Just a quick shut down as if someone had
thrown an
> "Off" switch. I've received advice to check everything from the
Battery
> forward.
>
> At this point I'm still not sure what is causing the problem. One
> interesting thing happened last night however.
> I took the car out for spin to see if the problem would reproduce
itself.
> The car ran fine until I was pulling in to park for the night.
> Just as I was about to stop, the car died again. Nice that it waited
until I
> was home! I parked the car and tried the ignition. Nothing happened.
No
> starter, no electricity at all. I decided that I would put the
headlight
> switch to the on position hoping that when I jiggled the right wire,
the
> headlights would turn on and I would have identified my problem. Being
that
> it was dark out I pulled out a flashlight and was looking to set it
down in
> the engine compartment in a spot that would illuminate the right spot.
Just
> as I set it down on the voltage regulator cover, the headlights on the
car
> turned on.
>
> Is it possible that the voltage regulator is the culprit? What should
I look
> for to determine if it is indeed causing the problem?
>
> Thanks again,
> Ian Nelson
> Healey Blue '58 100-6
From "Donald V. Fregeau Jr. DDS" <ceo at northcoast.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 08:35:25 -0700
Subject: Re: Sudden Shut-Down
My similar problem turned out to be a wire that passed into the distrbiutor
through a plastic connector on the side of the distributor from the coil.
It is usually described as a low tension lead. It drove me (rather stopped
me) crazy for quite some time. I was sitting on the side of the Newport
freeway 30 years ago trying to get my car started when a Highway Patrol
Officer stopped by and told me about the wire. Seemed he had seen a few
along the road. He said it was a carbon core wire that broke under constant
movement via the advance mechanism of the distributor. It would then
malfunction intermittently. Whether or not it was carbon core, I don't
know but I replaced it and have never had a problem like it since.
I have had enormous respect for the CHP (California Highway Patrol) ever
since.
Regards
Don
63BJ7
From Ed Santoro <esantoro at drbc.state.nj.us>
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 15:15:29 -0700
Subject: test
test
From "Alan Tadd" <Alan at tadd1.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 20:21:56 +0100
Subject: British Registration Details
Listers
Some little while ago there was some interest expressed regarding original
British Registrations and how you could tell when and where a car was first
registered.
I found this little "gem" the other evening on a Newsgroup I belong to and
it seems to give you the answers you're looking for:-
http://www.csm.uwe.ac.uk/~cjwallac/apps/car/carenq.html
I haven't checked the accuracy of any of the information supplied, but the
program seems to work OK.
Regards
Alan
(UK) BJ7
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 14:47:32 -0400
Subject: Spark Plug Wire
Has anyone experience with BumbleBee spark plug wire? Is it any better than
(say) a 7MM copper core wire? I want to rebuild my spark plug wire set and
coil wire to see if that gets rid of the "miss" and hesitation on
accelerating. RSVP off list would be appreciated.
Don
BN7
From Joseph Elmer <Joelmer at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 16:45:39 -0400
Subject: Re: 3.54 rear
Actually I recently saw an A90 and a parts car both together for $1800 on an
internet page although I don't recall which one off hand. Joe Elmer.
Peter Brauen wrote:
> Hi all,
> The A90 diff will indeed fit the 100 spiral bevel axle. It has 9 teeth
> on the pinion and 33 on the ring giving a ratio of 3.67:1, which would be
> about an 11% reduction. Not quite the 3.5, but considerably better than
> 4.125! Now, who has a few A90 diffs lying around?---Peter (BMC Restorations)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael Salter <magicare@home.com>
> To: Joseph Elmer <Joelmer@worldnet.att.net>
> Cc: JISah102 <ah102@home.com>; Michael Lempert
> <mdlempert@worldnet.att.net>; Awgertoo@aol.com <Awgertoo@aol.com>; Healey
> List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Wednesday, June 28, 2000 6:06 PM
> Subject: Re: 3.54 rear
>
> Joseph Elmer wrote:
>
> > Is there anything else that will fit the early BN1's and provide a 3.5
> ratio?
> >
> > JISah102 wrote:
> >
> > > The 3000 diff and/or gearset will fit the late BN1's with the 5 stud
> hub,
> > > but not the early BN1 with the 4 stub hub.
> > >
> > > Jim
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Michael Lempert <mdlempert@worldnet.att.net>
> > > To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: Monday, June 26, 2000 10:43 PM
> > > Subject: Re: 3.54 rear
> > >
> > > >
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
> > > > To: <mdlempert@worldnet.att.net>
> > > > Sent: Monday, June 26, 2000 8:30 PM
> > > > Subject: Re: 3.54 rear
> > > >
> > > > > I would like to know if it will fit in a late BN1 differenial.
> Also,
> > > how
> > > > > much will it cost? What would be the reduction in rpm's by %?
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks--Michael
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > > Michael:
> > > >
> > > > The ratio would be a 3.5 (12/42), which is approximately .4 lower
> than
> > > the
> > > > original 3.909 (11/43) found on the 3000 models. That would
> indicate a
> > > > 10.25% reduction.
> > > >
> > > > The 100-six had a 4.1 (not sure of gear ratio), thus the
> reduction would
> > > be
> > > > 14.6%
> > > >
> > > > To my understanding, the BN1 and BN2 models had two different
> ratios; a
> > > > 4.125 (8/33) and then a 4.1 (10/41) which came at chassis 221536,
> thus
> > > > reductions of 14.6% would apply here as well.
> > > >
> > > > My understanding has been that the gears are interchangeable for
> all Big
> > > > Healeys. I'm copying this response to the list hoping that the
> experts
> > > will
> > > > confirm or correct my data and assumptions. The unit I sent to
> the
> > > > manufacturer to model from was from a 3000.
> > > >
> > > > Once again, the price is expected to be $220 per set - 3.5
> (12/42). I
> > > need
> > > > to commit to 100 sets. At first I was not optimistic at all.
> However,
> > > > interest has been growing and we are now at the 20% point.
> > > >
> > > > Regards,
> > > > Mike L.
> > > > Bridgewater, NJ
> > > >
>
> The only diff that I know of that will fit the early BN1 is from an
> Austin
> Atlantic Convertible. I believe it is 3.55 / 1 (I run one in my 100S for
> short
> tracks.)
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 14:23:07 -0700
Subject: Re: British Registration Details
Well I'm not sure how British rules go, but it says the plate on my car was
registered in January of '67. However, my car was built in late June and
the owner took delivery in July in England. Is it possible BMC/BL would
have already "stocked" some license plates for personal export delivery
customers?
bk
------------------------------------
At 12:21 PM 6/29/00 , Alan Tadd wrote:
>Listers
>
>Some little while ago there was some interest expressed regarding original
>British Registrations and how you could tell when and where a car was first
>registered.
>I found this little "gem" the other evening on a Newsgroup I belong to and
>it seems to give you the answers you're looking for:-
>
>http://www.csm.uwe.ac.uk/~cjwallac/apps/car/carenq.html
>
>I haven't checked the accuracy of any of the information supplied, but the
>program seems to work OK.
>
>Regards
>
>Alan
>(UK) BJ7
>
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 18:21:11 EDT
Subject: Re: Spark Plug Wire
In a message dated 6/29/00 1:18:46 PM, dyarber@dynasty.net writes:
<<
Has anyone experience with BumbleBee spark plug wire? Is it any better than
(say) a 7MM copper core wire? I want to rebuild my spark plug wire set and
coil wire to see if that gets rid of the "miss" and hesitation on
accelerating. RSVP off list would be appreciated. >>
Better? Who the heck can tell. All I know is that I put the wires on my car
and it seems to run at least as well, if not better, than it did before I
changed the wires. Of course, one variable is that you have to put a spark
plug connector/boot on each wire, so you could make things worse if you
didn't make a good connection. The surprising thing to me was how stiff the
bumblebee wiring is. Once you bend it to fit, it stays there. At least you
never have to guess which wire goes to which plug. And it looks kind of
neat, while still being historically accurate.
Cheers
Gary
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 15:37:31 -0700
Subject: RE: Aluminum type on Shrouds?
According to the Automobile Engineer article on welding Healey shrouds, the
alloy has some magnesium in it and meets B.S.1470 N.S.3. I used to think it
was also called Birmabright. I have the Birmabright specs if you are still
interested. I don't think I have the B.S. spec.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
-
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 18:52:55 EDT
Subject: Non-TSD rallies
I would like to learn about rallies that are not time-speed-distance based.
Rather, I am looking for "fun" type events such as hair and hound, etc.
I would appreciate hearing offline from anyone having experience with such
driving events. Thanks in advance--
Michael
From Bill Pollock <wjpollock at erols.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 19:11:54 -0400
Subject: Re: BN4 gearbox problem
Thanks to all who replied to my gearbox problem. There was nothing wrong with
the gearbox,its the installer of the shifter who has a very red face. Took
the shifter to a local person today who works on these things as well as MGs
and Jags. Took him about 10 sec to tell me I had the bushing on upside down.
While it is worn it does still work and it is going in my spare parts bag.
Replaced it with a plastic one that goes on MGs. It does not the slop in it
that the old brass one has.
Just took the car around the block,runs like a charm.
Thanks-Bill Pollock
R. Markl/B. Council wrote:
> Perhaps it is just the thickness of the chrome on the "ball" of the
> shift lever that is causing the problem. Mine wouldn't shift right
> either until I removed the chrome.
>
> Rudi Markl, 100M
>
> Bill Pollock wrote:
> >
> > Last winter I removed engine,tranny and od as a unit and it set in the
> > shed all winter until I put the unit back in two weeks ago. The only
> > thing done to this unit was cleaning-painting and removal of the shifter
> > for chroming. Now with everything back together I cannot go into
> > reverse,third and usually fourth gears. First and second seem to be
> > fine.
> > The brass bushing at the bottom appears a little worn,but when I ran the
> > car last fall there wasnt any problem at all with the gears or with
> > shifting. Tried to order a new bushing today but three suppliers are
> > out of them. Does anyone have any ideas on what the problem might
> > be? Have tried shifting with the engine on and off and double
> > clutching,nothing works.
> >
> > Thanks
> > Bill Pollock
> > 59BN4
From Martin Filardi <filardi at uconect.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 08:23:07 -0400
Subject: That Healey Shake
My BJ8 shakes at about 62 to 75 mph. I have had the tires balanced, maybe they
did not do it right. The wheels are straight and true. Is this a balance
problem? Should I just work on tire balance? Does anyone know of a place in
Southeastern New England that can balance the rims correctly, or do them on the
car? Where can I get the rear break drums balanced?
Any help appreciated. By the way I had some work done by Jay Satts of
Motorworks in Westbrook CT. He did a great job, and he drives a BJ8, and races
a Bugeye. He has won the H production class in the Bugeye at Lime Rock and the
Glen the past 2 years.
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 19:56:50 -0700
Subject: Re: That Healey Shake
Go back in the archives to a note from Roger Moment on balancing wire
wheels. I built the rig he recommended and the tire/wheel shop said "we
have never seen wire wheels balance so well"
John Snyder
'60 BT7
'61 BN7 MK2
'62 BT7 MK2
----------
> From: Martin Filardi <filardi@uconect.net>
> To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
> Subject: That Healey Shake
> Date: Thursday, June 29, 2000 5:23 AM
>
>
> My BJ8 shakes at about 62 to 75 mph. I have had the tires balanced, maybe
they did not do it right. The wheels are straight and true. Is this a
balance problem? Should I just work on tire balance? Does anyone know of a
place in Southeastern New England that can balance the rims correctly, or
do them on the car? Where can I get the rear break drums balanced?
> Any help appreciated. By the way I had some work done by Jay Satts of
Motorworks in Westbrook CT. He did a great job, and he drives a BJ8, and
races a Bugeye. He has won the H production class in the Bugeye at Lime
Rock and the Glen the past 2 years.
>
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 22:39:02 -0500
Subject: Muroc Dry Lakes Results(no LBC)
Just thought I would pass along the results of my trip out to California to
see how the boys out there do it....
First off the Bugeye sprite was there and my Buddy Doug Odom set a new
record with his Driver Gail Phillips.... in E / Modified Sports.... 171 mph
The Camaro seemed to like the 1.5 mile Dirt lake bed pretty well .... we ran
191.... and 196 on Saturday and then ran 205.858 mph on Sunday to break the
exsisting record of 171 by more then 34 mph..... This got me into the Muroc
200 mph Club.... What a Blast.... Can't wait for Bonneville in August..
Keith Turk ( So Al Special ) 100 , bugeye, and a ton of Box sprites...
From bn1 at flashcom.net
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 21:45:47 -0700
Subject: Re: Muroc Dry Lakes Results(no LBC)
Keith Turk wrote:
> Just thought I would pass along the results of my trip out to California to
> see how the boys out there do it....
>
> First off the Bugeye sprite was there and my Buddy Doug Odom set a new
> record with his Driver Gail Phillips.... in E / Modified Sports.... 171 mph
>
> The Camaro seemed to like the 1.5 mile Dirt lake bed pretty well .... we ran
> 191.... and 196 on Saturday and then ran 205.858 mph on Sunday to break the
> exsisting record of 171 by more then 34 mph..... This got me into the Muroc
> 200 mph Club.... What a Blast.... Can't wait for Bonneville in August..
>
> Keith Turk ( So Al Special ) 100 , bugeye, and a ton of Box sprites...
Hi Kieth,
Congratulations, Big Time! Even though what you're doing doesn't interest me,
it
obviously did Donald. I salute you for joining him even if you were in a
Camero. I have
been following your "trials & tribulations".
Years ago when I was young and foolish, I did a measured 147 mph in a buddy's
modified
Vette, and I was only the scared passenger! You have bigger gonads than I
have, my
friend. Good luck at Bonneville!
Now, when are you going to do it in your 100?
Bill Barnett
BN1 #663
From Ed Santoro <esantoro at drbc.state.nj.us>
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 17:08:25 -0700
Subject: Help - Installation of Hood Scoop Grill
I am presently fitting a new hood scoop surround and have forgotten the
correct placement of the scoop grill and surround. Is the Grill fitted
under the upper portion of
the scoop opening with its bottom edge placed on the outside of the
small lip forming the bottom portion of the hood opening? If this is
correct, then I would suspect that
the scoop-surround attachment screws would extend through the hood and
then through the grill below, with the attachment nuts locked against
the inside portion of the
grill.
I would appreciate any tips on fitting this grill and surround to the
hood as I have been having a hell of a time setting this correctly.
Thanks to all
Ray
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 03:47:58 -0500
Subject: Re: Muroc Dry Lakes Results(no LBC)
I am going to build a Bugeye..... Not that you would ever recognize it as a
Bugeye.... it will be a 130" wheelbase Race car.... I got some Parts this
weekend when I was out there... one of which included the Front End Mold to
the Bugeye from Doug Odom Which we ended up sending to Dick Williams at
Poliform to have Three Front Ends done... Two Identical to Doug Odoms and
One stretched an additional 20 inches ...
The other thing I picked up while I was out in California was the New Block
for the Race engine.... It's a Rodeck aluminum Version of the Small Block
Chevrolet... Beautiful Piece of work and capable of standing the Huge
Pressures that I plan on putting it through.... ( eventually it will have
Twin Turbo's )
You know now that I think of it there is Damn little about any of this that
is Stock anything.... There will be only one piece that is Stock.... and
that will be the Bugeye body from the cowl Back.... after that Nothing comes
from Chevorlet or any other car Maker.... Not one part of the engine comes
from Gm .... not even the locating pins to put the after market parts
together...
It's just a Race motor.... and this is what it takes to be competitive....
which interests me much more then Running around showing off how much I love
Healey's....
I have two Motivators here that have driven me to this Point.... First was
the Efforts of Donald Healey in the Fifties.... and second was Tom Long....
Tom was one of the folks sitting around the fire at Charlie Moshell's house
in 88 when we firsted asked the question what it took to go Two Bills on the
Salt so many Years ago.... When Tom Was Hurt it made me realize Just how
fragile all our Dreams are.... and how we have to Act on them before our
Chance to do so is taken away..... There are only so many summers in a Man's
Life... we can talk.... or we can Act.... Fortunately... I have the
opportunity to Live this Dream....
I know that sounds a little corny.... but Tom is a Good Freind and it was a
real wake up call....
Keith Turk... ( by the way the Camaro should be in Hot Rod Magazine Next
month... Will Post which issue )
----- Original Message -----
From: <bn1@flashcom.net>
To: Keith Turk <kturk@ala.net>; Healeys <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 29, 2000 11:45 PM
Subject: Re: Muroc Dry Lakes Results(no LBC)
> Keith Turk wrote:
>
> > Just thought I would pass along the results of my trip out to California
to
> > see how the boys out there do it....
> >
> > First off the Bugeye sprite was there and my Buddy Doug Odom set a new
> > record with his Driver Gail Phillips.... in E / Modified Sports.... 171
mph
> >
> > The Camaro seemed to like the 1.5 mile Dirt lake bed pretty well .... we
ran
> > 191.... and 196 on Saturday and then ran 205.858 mph on Sunday to break
the
> > exsisting record of 171 by more then 34 mph..... This got me into the
Muroc
> > 200 mph Club.... What a Blast.... Can't wait for Bonneville in August..
> >
> > Keith Turk ( So Al Special ) 100 , bugeye, and a ton of Box sprites...
>
> Hi Kieth,
>
> Congratulations, Big Time! Even though what you're doing doesn't interest
me, it
> obviously did Donald. I salute you for joining him even if you were in a
Camero. I have
> been following your "trials & tribulations".
>
> Years ago when I was young and foolish, I did a measured 147 mph in a
buddy's modified
> Vette, and I was only the scared passenger! You have bigger gonads than I
have, my
> friend. Good luck at Bonneville!
>
> Now, when are you going to do it in your 100?
>
> Bill Barnett
> BN1 #663
>
>
>
From RAntal243 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 06:22:44 EDT
Subject: Re: Spark Plug Wire
Hi All,
Where can one purchase this Bumble Bee wire set? TIA,
Rich Antal
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 07:36:07 EDT
Subject: Re: Non-TSD rallies
Hi Michael,
Most of the Healey and British car meets I have attended had a fun-type of
Rallye rather than the TSD. The TSD is more of a challenge and I believe
that it has caused more hard feelings between the driver and navigator than
most anything else...especially if they are married at the start of the
Rallye.
Most people want a scenic route and not get lost as they probably don't know
the area anyway. Easy and tricky questions make it interesting and will
separate the cars for scoring. Some have a scavenger hunt, but are really
unfair for anyone from out of the area. The Rallye should have some sort of
theme like a mystery Rallye where you pick up clues at 4 or 5 stops and have
to figure out the murderer, weapon and motive. Or a poker run where you pick
up playing cards at the different stops and the best poker hand wins.
Hope this gives you some ideas
Rudy in NC
From Ed Santoro <esantoro at drbc.state.nj.us>
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 09:10:31 -0700
Subject: Re: That Healey Shake
Martin: You may be experiencing the dreaded healey scuttle shake !!! It may not
be a tire problem at all ! It will require adding additional reinforcement
around the entrance to the Trans tunnel. EDS
Martin Filardi wrote:
> My BJ8 shakes at about 62 to 75 mph. I have had the tires balanced, maybe
>they did not do it right. The wheels are straight and true. Is this a balance
>problem? Should I just work on tire balance? Does anyone know of a place in
>Southeastern New England that can balance the rims correctly, or do them on
>the car? Where can I get the rear break drums balanced?
> Any help appreciated. By the way I had some work done by Jay Satts of
>Motorworks in Westbrook CT. He did a great job, and he drives a BJ8, and races
>a Bugeye. He has won the H production class in the Bugeye at Lime Rock and the
>Glen the past 2 years.
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 07:37:56 -0700
Subject: Re: Help - Installation of Hood Scoop Grill
Ray,
The orientation you describe is correct. Be careful when you tighten
down the attachment nuts as you can easily deform the area where the
stud attaches to the scoop-surround leaving very noticeable dents in the
shiny chrome! You can experiment with adding thin washers to the stud
between the surround and the hood to limit the deformation or just
lightly snug the attachment nuts and use locktite.
Good luck,
John
Ed Santoro wrote:
>
> I am presently fitting a new hood scoop surround and have forgotten the
> correct placement of the scoop grill and surround. Is the Grill fitted
> under the upper portion of
> the scoop opening with its bottom edge placed on the outside of the
> small lip forming the bottom portion of the hood opening? If this is
> correct, then I would suspect that
> the scoop-surround attachment screws would extend through the hood and
> then through the grill below, with the attachment nuts locked against
> the inside portion of the
> grill.
>
> I would appreciate any tips on fitting this grill and surround to the
> hood as I have been having a hell of a time setting this correctly.
>
> Thanks to all
>
> Ray
From MBran89793 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 10:38:21 EDT
Subject: Re: Spark Plug Wire
In answer to where you may get the "Bumble Bee Ignition Wire" set.
Unfortunately, you buy the BB wire by the foot. Then you measure, cut and
make your own ignition harness with the appropriate plug terminals for the
application.
I have no financial interest, but I find that Victoria British Ltd. has the
BB wire listed at $9.95 for 8.5 ft. Curved plug ends for $6.95 each or
straight plug ends for $5.95 each.
Moss has the BB wire @ $1.80 per foot. Curved plug ends for (Lucas) $6.75
each and (Champion) $10.45 each or straight (Champion) ends for $4.95 each.
I'm sure that other suppliers have these items also.
Personally, I like the Champion curved plug ends on the BB wire on a BN, BT
4, 6, & 7 and BJ 7 & 8, but I think the straight ends look better on 100s.
Of course that is just a matter of personal likes and dislikes, not a
Concours judgement.
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
President & Delegate of Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club
Concours Committee Chairman- Judges & Judging
AHCA Liason for Concours
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 11:12:10 EDT
Subject: Parades
Folks, finally got around to putting a LBC picture up on my site. This is in
reply to a couple of you asking about driving LBCs in July Fourth Parades!
The front "standard" has a very hard to see 13 Star American Flag with The
Union Jack on the rear (lower in level). Got LOTS of compliments when there
was air to stand the flags out !! Banner on opposite side read ILLINI
Chapter. Frame was(is) made of 1/2 conduit pipe with various connectors.
Rear bottom Horz rest on bumper brackets and front on splash pan. Didn't
move an inch!!
<A HREF="http://www.justbrits.com/July4.jpg";>July 4th Parade</A>
Cheers..........
Ed
'63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)
'73 Black Tulip MGB (Muriel)
(Black Tri-carb belongs to a friend/customer and had orange motor)
PS: Hortense won 1st place for autos (out of @40)<VBG>
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 11:17:48 -0400
Subject: Re: Non-TSD rallies
Michael -
A lot of the the Cigarette boats use the Poker Run as their excuse for
crudding up quiet marinas with noise and gas fumes during the summer. I've
talked to the participants and they rave about how much fun they are having
until I ask them how much does fuel cost for the run...
Lee
-----Original Message-----
From: CAWS52803@aol.com <CAWS52803@aol.com>
To: Awgertoo@aol.com <Awgertoo@aol.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, June 30, 2000 7:37 AM
Subject: Re: Non-TSD rallies
>
>Hi Michael,
>Most of the Healey and British car meets I have attended had a fun-type of
>Rallye rather than the TSD. The TSD is more of a challenge and I believe
>that it has caused more hard feelings between the driver and navigator than
>most anything else...especially if they are married at the start of the
>Rallye.
>Most people want a scenic route and not get lost as they probably don't
know
>the area anyway. Easy and tricky questions make it interesting and will
>separate the cars for scoring. Some have a scavenger hunt, but are really
>unfair for anyone from out of the area. The Rallye should have some sort
of
>theme like a mystery Rallye where you pick up clues at 4 or 5 stops and
have
>to figure out the murderer, weapon and motive. Or a poker run where you
pick
>up playing cards at the different stops and the best poker hand wins.
>Hope this gives you some ideas
>Rudy in NC
From CNAArndt at aol.com
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 11:29:58 EDT
Subject: Re: Fuel line question?
Michael
I thought that I was somewhat familiar with British Fasteners and thread
forms but B.S.T. (British Standard Tube) is a new one for me. The only ones
that I am familiar with are as follows:
B.S.W (British Standard Whitworth)
B.S.F. (British Standard Fine)
B.S.P. (British Standard Pipe)
B.S.P.T. (British Standard Pipe Tapered)
B.A. (British Association)
B.S.C. (British Standard Cycle) or C.E.I (Cycle Engineers Institute)
Is B.S.T. (British Standard Tube) just one more in a list of obscure thread
forms or could it be one of the "pipe" thread forms? I can think of at least
six of us on the list who would care about such trivia.
Cheers
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1
<< "Lee S. Mairs" wrote:
> Can anyone tell me the size/designation/name of the fittings used to
connect
> to the fuel tank and to the fuel pump?
> After spending $5 at the local parts store I can attest that it is not
5/16"
> Edelman fitting. While 5/16" compression fittings look like they ought to
> fit, the thread size is finer than that on my supposed BT7 tricarb.
> Lee
I believe the fittings are B.S.T. (British Standard Tube).
The nipple end is silver soldered onto the tubing and a special nut is used.
We have the straight ones in stock. Check for NIP001 on the site below ,
parts
index, Austin Healey 100, 100/6, 3000.
The right angle one is, as far as I am aware not available.
With careful bending you can make a piece of tubing work fine.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/ >>
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 11:55:22 EDT
Subject: Re: Help - Installation of Hood Scoop Grill
In a message dated 6/29/00 10:46:25 PM, esantoro@drbc.state.nj.us writes:
<< I am presently fitting a new hood scoop surround and have forgotten the
correct placement of the scoop grill and surround. >>
Sorry -- can't answer your order of fitment question without looking at the
car -- someone else may be closer to their car and can help you.
HOWEVER --
Don't make the mistake we've seen in too many concours cars, of fitting the
bonnet opening top surround/trim piece without bushings on the three bolts
that extend down through the hood. Rubber washers -- like those used on
battery hold-downs -- are as good as anything. From memory, they need to be
close to a quarter-inch thick, and are placed between the surround and the
hood.
They need to be there to prevent the surround from dimpling when you tighten
it down. One turn too far, especially without bushings, and you'll have just
put three permanent, visible flaw marks in an expensive little piece of trim.
(he said from experience).
Cheers
Gary
From RAntal243 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 13:04:48 EDT
Subject: Re: Spark Plug Wire
Wow,
What a response. Thanks mucho. So when I get this wire, what are the
best plugs to run with it. '65 BJ8, and thanks again.........Rich Antal
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 13:43:22 EDT
Subject: Re: Help - Installation of Hood Scoop Grill
In a message dated 6/30/2000 00:34:24 Central Daylight Time,
esantoro@drbc.state.nj.us writes:
<< with the attachment nuts locked against
the inside portion of the >>
Just a tip on the nuts. DO NOT TIGHTEN THEM TO MUCH , they will pull little
dents in the top of the scoop. Tighten snug, and then put some RTV silicone
on to prevent the nuts from coming off.
Don
NTAHC
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 15:32:08 -0400
Subject: Re: Help - Installation of Hood Scoop Grill
Drtrite@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 6/30/2000 00:34:24 Central Daylight Time,
> esantoro@drbc.state.nj.us writes:
>
> << with the attachment nuts locked against
> the inside portion of the >>
>
> Just a tip on the nuts. DO NOT TIGHTEN THEM TO MUCH , they will pull little
> dents in the top of the scoop. Tighten snug, and then put some RTV silicone
> on to prevent the nuts from coming off.
> Don
> NTAHC
As a point of interest on this one. Originally the surround is spaced up from
the bonnet with little rectangles of the type of material that fibre washers
are made of ,with a 7/32 hole in the middle. As I recall there are two on each
stud.
Hey .....some people remember wierd things like that.
Try me on my kids birthdays if you want to stump me!!!!
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From Mogfrog1 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 15:51:57 EDT
Subject: 100/4 head needed
Hi All, just got the bad news from my machinist. The cylinder head for my BN1
engine has the dreaded crack accross the top/center. Anyone have any success
having this crack reliably repaired? Secondly, does anyone have a crackfree
used head that want to sell or trade? Would definatley consider any good
cylinder head including an alloy head. Any and all help and advice
appreciated.
Thanks and
Cheers,
John Wright
near Allentown, PA
BN1
From Rebeltown at aol.com
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 16:55:47 EDT
Subject: Re: That Healey Shake
I have found that any transmission shop that balances flywheels can or should
be able to balance brake drums. Gary S. 67 BJ8 #38427 N.J.
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 17:08:21 EDT
Subject: Re: That Healey Shake
Most of the experienced Healey mechanics say that the Healey scuttle is
adequately rigid if the wheels and brakes drums are balanced, the wheels
trued and tuned, and the universal joints balanced. I'd check those areas
before adding scuttle reinforcemen, unless your doing a ground up restoration.
John
100-Six Erika the Red
From "the real Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 17:22:37 -0400
Subject: Lucas ignition wire
Don,
I have been installing Lucas "bumblebee" wire on Healeys for the past 25
years with good results. It is quite long-lasting; I have never had to
replace
a wire once fitted. The only problem I have ever seen with it was in the AZ
desert, where the insulation crumbles and turns into powder (like a 1980 -
85 Volvo). The covering has recently been re-formulated to a softer compound
than was previously offered, and it's too early to tell if this new stuff
survives better in the southwest.
For your car I would recommend Belden straight spark plug clips with the
little spring across the split. The spring keeps the end that slides onto
the plug from spreading and becoming a loose fit. They should be soldered
on.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks.
From David Woerpel <dwoerpel at wi.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 16:27:26 -0500
Subject: Around the World Rally-Wisconsin/U.P.
I'm leaving for northern Wisconsin and am apparently doing so at the
right time.
If anyone else is interested, I am watching the cars go by in
Watersmeet, MI.
Here is the route from the routemeister.
Have a great 4th and remember why we celebrate!
Dave
59 :{)
59 MGA 1500
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Subject: AWR
RE: Specific route?
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 22:01:13 -0400
From: John.Bellefleur@ec.gc.ca
To: dwoerpel@wi.net
Cars are leaving at 0800 from Duluth going south and east to Solon
Springs.
Keep heading east to Clam Lake and on to Glidden for lunch and then
south
to
Butternut and east to Presque Isle and to Thayer at Hwy 2. Across Hwy 2
to
Hwy
45 and into forestry complex with Passage control at FH 16, going east
and
then north to Sidnaw and up to L'Anse. From L'Anse via the Skanee Rd, to
Route 510 and south to Marquette.
JB
From Bill Holt <lbcholt at one.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 17:45:14 -0400
Subject: British Car Day - Cincinnati - Sunday, July 16, 2000
How do you get the most out of Summer? With the 14th Annual Cincinnati
British Car Day (featuring MG), a gathering of the British Car Faithful,
sponsored by the Ohio Valley Austin-Healey Club and the British Car Club of
Greater Cincinnati, and you are invited. Where you ask? Edgewater Sports
Park in Southwestern Ohio, just minutes west of downtown Cincinnati. Join
us for this one day event on Sunday, July 16, 2000. Gates open at 9:00 a.m.
with registration for judging closing at 12:00 noon and trophies awarded by
4:00 p.m. Entry fee on the day of the show is $15.00. Admission for adult
spectators is $4.00; children under 12 are free. Food, refreshments and
restrooms are available with plenty of parking and tree shaded areas for
vendors and participants alike.
As an added attraction, Edgewater drag strip will be available exclusively
to all registered British cars. For an additional fee of $20.00,
participants may time their vehicle individually on the track throughout
the afternoon. All drivers must wear long pants, seat belts, rated safety
helmets, and have working coolant recovery containers on the cars.
For more information check out the web site at
http://members.aol.com/BCCGC/index.html
Thanks,
Bill Holt
Ft. Mitchell, KY
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 16:06:49 -0600
Subject: car show
If any of you readers are in Santa Fe, NM on the 4th there is a car show on
the plaza 6 ayhem till 1
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{) 54 BN1
Click below for webpage and mopeds:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
From Martin Filardi <filardi at uconect.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 05:58:11 -0400
Subject: RE: That Healey Shake
Yes he wrote a great article on it with pics. And diagrams in the Healey
magazine, I have to dig it out. Anyone know the month and year? I think it was
about a year ago.
----------
From: John Snyder
Sent: Thursday, June 29, 2000 10:57 PM
To: Martin Filardi; 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Subject: Re: That Healey Shake
Go back in the archives to a note from Roger Moment on balancing wire
wheels. I built the rig he recommended and the tire/wheel shop said "we
have never seen wire wheels balance so well"
John Snyder
'60 BT7
'61 BN7 MK2
'62 BT7 MK2
----------
> From: Martin Filardi <filardi@uconect.net>
> To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
> Subject: That Healey Shake
> Date: Thursday, June 29, 2000 5:23 AM
>
>
> My BJ8 shakes at about 62 to 75 mph. I have had the tires balanced, maybe
they did not do it right. The wheels are straight and true. Is this a
balance problem? Should I just work on tire balance? Does anyone know of a
place in Southeastern New England that can balance the rims correctly, or
do them on the car? Where can I get the rear break drums balanced?
> Any help appreciated. By the way I had some work done by Jay Satts of
Motorworks in Westbrook CT. He did a great job, and he drives a BJ8, and
races a Bugeye. He has won the H production class in the Bugeye at Lime
Rock and the Glen the past 2 years.
>
From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
Date: Sat, 01 Jul 2000 09:14:10 +1000
Subject: Re: Fuel line question?
Then there is B.S.M. ( British Standard Milk )
Cheers
Larry Varley
From Silas Elash <spe00 at amdahl.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 16:08:42 -0700
Subject: Don't want scuttle trouble! -was Re: That Healey Shake
I am doing a ground up resoration and have my frame about stripped.
I have heard mention of this "Healey scuttle problem" and that it can be
fixed? Could someone please educate me. I will also try the archives.
Thanks in advance!!!!
Silas
BJ7
JSoderling@aol.com wrote:
>
> Most of the experienced Healey mechanics say that the Healey scuttle is
> adequately rigid if the wheels and brakes drums are balanced, the wheels
> trued and tuned, and the universal joints balanced. I'd check those areas
> before adding scuttle reinforcemen, unless your doing a ground up restoration.
> John
> 100-Six Erika the Red
--
Silas Elash email: Silas_Elash@amdahl.com
Staff System Design Engineer phone:(408) 746-6536
Connectivity Development fax:(408) 746-8502
Amdahl Corporation
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at connect.comdek.net.au>
Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2000 08:45:28 +0800
Subject: BT7 assembly
Hi all
Some more dumb quetions from someone who is assembling as car dismantled by
the PO.
On the vertical panel behind the rear axle that forms the front of the boot
(trunk) there a two small weld nuts with 10/32 thread located a few inches
outside the fuel tank strap fixing. What goes there?
TIA
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
BT7 in resto. Trying to fill in all the holes.
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 21:09:16 -0400
Subject: Re: Spark Plug Wire
The BMC shop manual calls for Champion UN12Y. I use RN12YC
which is supposed to be the modern equivalent. I believe that the
R stands for resistor and the C stand for copper.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1963 BJ7
1980 MGB
----- Original Message -----
From: <RAntal243@aol.com>
To: <MBran89793@aol.com>; <Editorgary@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 30, 2000 1:04 PM
Subject: Re: Spark Plug Wire
>
> Wow,
> What a response. Thanks mucho. So when I get this wire, what are the
> best plugs to run with it. '65 BJ8, and thanks again.........Rich Antal
>
From Fred Hunter <fhunter at kcnet.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 20:52:38 -0500
Subject: That Healey Shake
Silas Elash wrote:
>
> I am doing a ground up resoration and have my frame about stripped.
> I have heard mention of this "Healey scuttle problem" and that it can be
> fixed? Could someone please educate me. I will also try the archives.
>
Silas:
Here's the address of Bill Boltens' fine scuttle repair article:
http://www.team.net/www/healey/tech/big_hly/body/scuttle.html
Best regards,
Fred Hunter
A guy
Who drives
A car wide open
Is not thinkin'
He's just hopin'
--Burma-Shave--
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 22:01:30 -0400
Subject: Re: Spark Plug Wire
With all due respect to the exalted Champion Spark Plug Company we have had
much better success with NGK plugs. BP5ES.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Peter Schauss wrote:
> The BMC shop manual calls for Champion UN12Y. I use RN12YC
> which is supposed to be the modern equivalent. I believe that the
> R stands for resistor and the C stand for copper.
>
> Peter Schauss
> Long Island, NY
> 1963 BJ7
> 1980 MGB
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <RAntal243@aol.com>
> To: <MBran89793@aol.com>; <Editorgary@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, June 30, 2000 1:04 PM
> Subject: Re: Spark Plug Wire
>
> >
> > Wow,
> > What a response. Thanks mucho. So when I get this wire, what are the
> > best plugs to run with it. '65 BJ8, and thanks again.........Rich Antal
> >
From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 22:21:53 EDT
Subject: Re: Spark Plug Wire
I agree. Of all the plugs that I have used in motorcycles or cars (Jag, TR3,
Miata, 944) I have never found a better plug than NGK. I have said it before
and I will say it again...the most high performance, high compression, highly
stressed engines are in the superbikes of today. Every brand that I know of
uses NGK as factory stock because they are the best.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
<< With all due respect to the exalted Champion Spark Plug Company we have had
much better success with NGK plugs. BP5ES.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>
From Robert Dobrowski <rsdslp at juno.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 19:24:50 -0700
Subject: Re: Spark Plug Wire
I'm Surprised
All my associates have come to call NGK plugs NFG plugs because they are
guaranteed to fail within 2000 miles.
Champions may not be the best but they are consistently acceptable.
On Fri, 30 Jun 2000 22:01:30 -0400 Krazy Kiwi <magicare@home.com> writes:
>
> With all due respect to the exalted Champion Spark Plug Company we
> have had
> much better success with NGK plugs. BP5ES.
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
> Peter Schauss wrote:
>
> > The BMC shop manual calls for Champion UN12Y. I use RN12YC
> > which is supposed to be the modern equivalent. I believe that
> the
> > R stands for resistor and the C stand for copper.
> >
> > Peter Schauss
> > Long Island, NY
> > 1963 BJ7
> > 1980 MGB
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <RAntal243@aol.com>
> > To: <MBran89793@aol.com>; <Editorgary@aol.com>;
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Friday, June 30, 2000 1:04 PM
> > Subject: Re: Spark Plug Wire
> >
> > >
> > > Wow,
> > > What a response. Thanks mucho. So when I get this wire,
> what are the
> > > best plugs to run with it. '65 BJ8, and thanks
> again.........Rich Antal
> > >
>
________________________________________________________________
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
From "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 19:49:39 -0700
Subject: Re: Spark Plug Wire
Here is a rather full story of installing "bumble bee" wires on my 100-M
with a serious road test.
In the early 1980's I restored the engine in my 100-M. I used solid copper
core wires from the local parts store. The original sports coil remains in
use. On June 17th I was reading the new Moment and Anderson restoration
book. Armed with new knowledge I discovered a set of original plug caps on
my ancient junk engine. Armed with this new treasure and new "bumble bee"
wires from Norm and Dave Nock's supply, I fitted all this to my engine.
The difference was IMPRESSIVE.
On the way to the Father's day car show at Cal Luthern on Sunday, I noticed
a Daimler SP250 transitioning from the 101 to the 23, right behind me. His
oil cooler was a little obvious in my rear view mirror. Sunday morning, no
cars, we both road tested our cars. He disappeared in my rear view mirror.
The driver of the SP250 later told me he dropped off at speeds beyond what
the '56 Road and Track article claims the 100-M is capable of.
At the show, I peeked under the hood of the SP250 only to see a 400cid
Chevy. Of course he was running 4:11 gears *no* overdrive :-) Who needs
a 3:56.
Viva la difference.
Best Regards,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M concours restoration
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 29, 2000 3:21 PM
Subject: Re: Spark Plug Wire
>
>
> In a message dated 6/29/00 1:18:46 PM, dyarber@dynasty.net writes:
>
> <<
> Has anyone experience with BumbleBee spark plug wire? Is it any better
than
> (say) a 7MM copper core wire? I want to rebuild my spark plug wire set
and
> coil wire to see if that gets rid of the "miss" and hesitation on
> accelerating. RSVP off list would be appreciated. >>
>
> Better? Who the heck can tell. All I know is that I put the wires on my
car
> and it seems to run at least as well, if not better, than it did before I
> changed the wires. Of course, one variable is that you have to put a
spark
> plug connector/boot on each wire, so you could make things worse if you
> didn't make a good connection. The surprising thing to me was how stiff
the
> bumblebee wiring is. Once you bend it to fit, it stays there. At least
you
> never have to guess which wire goes to which plug. And it looks kind of
> neat, while still being historically accurate.
>
> Cheers
> Gary
>
From David Woerpel <dwoerpel at wi.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 22:55:34 -0500
Subject: Re: ATW Rally route
To All:
JRLNJ@aol.com wrote:
> Has the route from Binghampton,NY to Newark, NJ been announced?
I received the following from the website
(http://www.carnet.co.uk/rallyoffice/):
"Please e-mail john.bellefleur@ec.gc.ca our organiser of this
section for specific routes/times. Alternatively call Dave Whittock,
Clerk of the Course, on 0044 385 352852 who will be able to help you."
The website has route info and maps (not detailed). John gave me the
most detail.
Good luck,
Dave
59 :{)
59 MGA 1500
From "Ron Yates" <dipstickdigest at ctaz.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 21:23:52 -0700
Subject: New website
It was only a matter of time ladies and gentlemen.
If you have any free time this week end check out the web-site. It's got
some minor teething problems, but all will be well shortly (so sayeth the
webmaster).
Any and and all feedback (positive-negative; whatever) welcome.
Thanks
Ron Yates
From "Ron Yates" <dipstickdigest at ctaz.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 21:31:46 -0700
Subject: Re: New website
Sorry People
I got so excited I forgot the important part.
www.ctaz.com/~dipstickdigest/index.html
Subject: New website
> It was only a matter of time ladies and gentlemen.
>
> If you have any free time this week end check out the web-site. It's got
> some minor teething problems, but all will be well shortly (so sayeth the
> webmaster).
>
> Any and and all feedback (positive-negative; whatever) welcome.
>
> Thanks
>
> Ron Yates
>
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