My 60BT7 gave me fits with vapor locks until I moved my fuel pump to the
passenger side of the car, away from the exhaust system. End of problem.
Bill Boylan
1960 BT7 (In Restoration)
----- Original Message -----
From: <LarryRPH@aol.com>
To: <dyarber@dynasty.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2000 8:27 AM
Subject: Re: Auxillary Fuel Pump
>
> Don,
>
> I decided on a parallel setup because I feared that a mechanical
breakdown
> in of the pumps in a series hookup (leaky diaphragm, electrical
short,etc.)
> would cause the fuel to be cut off . The pumps "push " the gas and
the
> fear is that it would not push it through a "dead" pump. I decided to
play
> it safe.
>
> Yes , putting the toggle switch in a secure location where it will not
> accidentally be moved is very wise. I put the second pump in because I
had
> considerable problem
> on a long trip when I was running with the single pump. (Vapor lock -the
> original pump on a BN 6 is located a few inches above the tailpipes) .
at
> the same time that I installed the second pump, I put in a stebro side
pipe
> exhaust system and the exhaust exits just in front of the rear wheel.
Never
> a vapor lock problem since these modifications ! However, The noise out
the
> side makes my radio useless and conversation with a passenger is a real
> challenge.
>
> I am about to give this car a real test as I leave this afternoon for
> Liverpool, England to pick up the car and drive the UK2K tour! I think
we
> get to go through some pretty high elevations in the Swiss Alps and I have
my
> fingers crossed!
>
> Larry Wysocki
> BN 6
> BJ 7
>
From <costan0 at attglobal.net>
Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2000 10:40:20 -0700
Subject: Need info for the machine shop- rocker ratio
Listers,
My machine shop called and needs the rocker ratio. I have exhaust valves
hitting the block and he wants to calculate the lift. I would guess the
head has been machine too many times.
Does anyone have the info?
Jerry
From <costan0 at attglobal.net>
Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2000 11:25:42 -0700
Subject: 030 piston needed
does anybody have 1 usable piston 030 that they could get rid of?
The rest of the set are County CP 310 weight 474 gms including rings
and wrist pin
Thanks
Jerry
From "Donald L. Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2000 13:46:57 -0500
Subject: Dimmer Switch Location
Hey gang. I am trying to put my headlight dimmer switch back to the driver
side floorboard and can't locate the holes. Can somebody please make some
measurements for me (they don't have to be in micrometers) just plain old
inches and fractions will suffice. Tell me how far the top screw is from
the angle where the floorboard goes from parallel to the ground upwards, how
far is it from the left kick panel. That should get me in the ball park and
I can probe my carpets.
They are new carpets and are glued down so I would appreciate this help.
Don
BN7
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2000 14:57:31 EDT
Subject: Re: Dimmer Switch Location
Hi Don,
I just went down and measured my 100/6. It is almost exactly 2 inches down
from the angled floorboard.
I usually use a pick or sharp probe to go through the carpet and search
around for the exact location. When all else fails and I think where I am
putting it is correct, I just whack the ice pick with a hammer and create a
new hole.
Good luck.
Rudy in NC
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2000 12:07:00 -0700
Subject: fluid lines
Having a mild interest in setting up a tube bending shop, I went to
http://www.classictube.com/ to see what they were about. It looks like
someone has already made pre formed lines for our Healey's. Neat.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
From JMcD206 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 01 Sep 2000 15:13:59 EDT
Subject: Fuel Pump ID
Listers,
I have receintly traded my basket case BN4 for a pretty decent RUNNING BN4. I
noticed the other day that my fuel pump is not an SU. It looks similar and is
located in the same place the SU would have been located. The ID marks that I
see are:
Auto Pump
Made in
NZ
P/No
AP115
Does anyone know anything about this pump? Are parts
available? From where?
I have no problem with the pump, I am just trying to cover all my bases.
Thanks
Jim McDermott (driving with a smile on my face)
57 BN4
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2000 14:30:12 -0500
Subject: RE: fluid lines
Ken,
I have used their lines on my BJ8. While the pre-formed lines are very
well made, they were not an exact match to my originals. I ended up
sending almost all the lines back to them along with my originals, for
tweaking.
I will say that they were very good about doing this, cheerful, prompt and
at no cost to me for shipping back and forth.
I would certainly use them again if I had to but would send all my originals
to them up front.
Regards,
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com [mailto:Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com]
Sent: Friday, September 01, 2000 12:07 PM
To: 'healeys'
Subject: fluid lines
Having a mild interest in setting up a tube bending shop, I went to
http://www.classictube.com/ to see what they were about. It looks like
someone has already made pre formed lines for our Healey's. Neat.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Fri, 01 Sep 2000 16:20:43 -0400
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump ID
JMcD206@aol.com wrote:
> Listers,
>
> I have receintly traded my basket case BN4 for a pretty decent RUNNING BN4.
>I noticed the other day that my fuel pump is not an SU. It looks similar and
>is located in the same place the SU would have been located. The ID marks
>that I see are:
> Auto Pump
> Made in
> NZ
> P/No
> AP115
>
> Does anyone know anything about this pump? Are parts
> available? From where?
>
> I have no problem with the pump, I am just trying to cover all my bases.
>
> Thanks
> Jim McDermott (driving with a smile on my face)
> 57 BN4
>
Hi Jim,
We used to sell the Autopump, however, although they work well and last a long
time we had serious problems with our over the counter sales where people would
over tighten or cross thread the fuel union banjo bolts in the plastic body. The
instructions provided with the pump were very specific and if these were
followed there were no problems.
We got so tired of giving away replacement pumps to preserve out reputation
that we stopped selling them.
Several of the pumps that we fitted to cars 15 or more years ago are still
running well.
I have never needed to rebuild one so I have no idea what the parts situation
is.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2000 18:50:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Dimmer Switch Location
Don,
Get underneath the car and push an ice pick through one of the holes in the
floor. Go into the car and use a perm marker to mark the location of the
pick through the carpet. Do likewise with the other hole. Then you can
probe more accurately with the machine screws to find the welded nuts and
mount the bracket.
Keith Pennell
----- Original Message -----
From: Donald L. Yarber <dyarber@dynasty.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 01, 2000 2:46 PM
Subject: Dimmer Switch Location
>
> Hey gang. I am trying to put my headlight dimmer switch back to the
driver
> side floorboard and can't locate the holes. Can somebody please make some
> measurements for me (they don't have to be in micrometers) just plain old
> inches and fractions will suffice. Tell me how far the top screw is from
> the angle where the floorboard goes from parallel to the ground upwards,
how
> far is it from the left kick panel. That should get me in the ball park
and
> I can probe my carpets.
>
> They are new carpets and are glued down so I would appreciate this help.
>
> Don
> BN7
>
From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2000 19:34:38 EDT
Subject: Re: Need info for the machine shop- rocker ratio
In a message dated 9/1/00 12:41:07 PM Central Daylight Time,
costan0@attglobal.net writes:
<< My machine shop called and needs the rocker ratio. I have exhaust valves
hitting the block and he wants to calculate the lift. I would guess the
head has been machine too many times.
Does anyone have the info?
Jerry
>>
Jerry,
Some say 1.4 others say 1.45 for the stock rockers. I think Elgin cams
quotes 1.45 on their website.
Cheers,
Chris
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2000 20:33:45 EDT
Subject: Re: 3rd brake light
In a message dated 8/31/00 6:54:29 PM Pacific Daylight Time, lbcholt@one.net
writes:
Bill,
Thanks for the kind words. I'll pass them on the "Erika". Hope you find
your Big Healey soon. When you do, Erika would love to have an introduction
to him!
John
<<
Just a quick note to say I enjoyed your article on the 3rd brake light in
this month's Austin Healey magazine. I still don't own a Healey yet but my
'73 MGB is a pretty darn good substitute. When I do track down a Healey, I
will seriously consider your 3rd brake light idea. I have noticed how
unnoticeable the Healey tail lights are (about the only unnoticeable thing
on the car!) and a big, bright 3rd tail light is just about essential in my
opinion.
Bill Holt
P.S. I hope you'll be writing some more articles in the future. Your >>
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 01 Sep 2000 21:28:46 -0500
Subject: Re: Need info for the machine shop- rocker ratio
At 10:40 AM 09/01/2000 -0700, costan0@attglobal.net wrote:
><calculate the lift.>
> The stock rocker arm ratio is 1.40. I have measured at the cam and at
> the valve and confirmed the ratio on several different engines.
><I would guess the
>head has been machine too many times.>
A great deal of material would have to be taken off of the head to cause
valve interference with a stock rocker arm ratio. You did not mention
which cam you are using. But the greatest lift at the valve is with the
BJ8 cam and it is only .368. A stock unmachined head and block has a valve
to block clearance of close to .450 (with gasket in place). Surfacing or
decking the block or head for a combined .080 is a lot of material to
remove (almost twice the thickness of a head gasket). I would check the
installation and timing. Could be a mistimed installation that is hitting
the piston instead of the block.
Also, did the shop perform the test assembly with the head gasket in
place? It is about .045 in thickness and about .035 when installed and
crushed.
Regards.
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
>Does anyone have the info?
>
>Jerry
From Jhayspu at aol.com
Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2000 22:57:59 EDT
Subject: Top bow color @ BT7
I understand there is a krylon color that is a very good match; any help with
the exact name of the color? TIA
From MBran89793 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2000 23:23:55 EDT
Subject: Re: Top bow color @ BT7
In a message dated 9/1/00 11:00:06 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Jhayspu@aol.com
writes:
<< I understand there is a krylon color that is a very good match; any help
with
the exact name of the color? >>
The Krylon color is Dove Grey #1605.
You may also want to check Rustolrum #7786 Smoke Grey and Plastikote #364.
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
President & Delegate of Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club
Concours Committee Chairman- Judges & Judging
AHCA Liaison for Concours
From Bob Haskell <bhaskell at iquest.net>
Date: Fri, 01 Sep 2000 22:31:30 -0500
Subject: Re: Healeys on Speedvision
It will also air at 7:30AM Eastern tomorrow morning (Saturday, 2nd) and
I've heard sometime on the 4th of Sept.
Bob Haskell
'60 AH BT-7 MkI
'64 Mini Cooper S RHD
'80 MGB LE
bhaskell@iquest.net
SOL Healey (URL http://www.team.net/www/healey) web apprentice
Laurie Wilford wrote:
>
> While we were at Conclave in Indianapolis,it was metioned that there would
>be a program on Speedvision September 1 about Healeys. It was to include
>footage on Conclave 2000. Does anyone know what time it is supposed to air? I
>was hoping to tape it.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Laurie Wilford
>
> _______________________________________________________________________
>
> Free Unlimited Internet Access! Try it now!
> http://www.zdnet.com/downloads/altavista/index.html
>
> _______________________________________________________________________
From Ward Stebner <liason at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Fri, 01 Sep 2000 21:07:40 -0600
Subject: Brake drums
I just have a quick question about fitting brake drums onto new hubs. I
purchased new front hubs from British Wire Wheel and I am now trying to
install the brake drums but have run into a snag. The recess in the
back of the brake drum that the hub is to fit into is not the same size
as the hub (the hub is larger). The hub is just large enough to not let
the brake drum sit flush against it. Any suggestions?
Thanks!
Ward Stebner
1956 BN2
Saskatoon, SK
From Fred Anderson <fanderso at mail.orion.org>
Date: Fri, 01 Sep 2000 23:37:50 -0500
Subject: speedvision
If anyone needs a copy of conclave 2000 on speedvision let me know at
fandersn@ipa.net.
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Sat, 2 Sep 2000 00:59:22 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Fwd: News Alert from NYTimes.com
---- you wrote:
>
>
> NEWS ALERT
> The New York Times on the Web
> Friday, Sept. 1, 2000 -- 1:20 P.M. E.S.T.
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> 1.8 Million More Faulty Tires May Be On Road, Officials Say
> Federal regulators will issue a warning today that an additional 1.8
> million Firestone tires may be defective, an administration official
> said.
>
> Full story:
> http://www.nytimes.com/yr/mo/day/news/financial/01cnd-tire.html
>
> For news updated throughout the day, visit www.nytimes.com
>
> HOW TO CHANGE YOUR SUBSCRIPTION
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> You received this message because you signed up to receive news alerts
> from NYTimes.com. To cancel delivery, change delivery options,
> change your e-mail address or sign up for other newsletters, see
> http://www.nytimes.com/email
>
>
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From "Andy King" <healey-100 at hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2000 19:04:50 -1000
Subject: Re: Brake drums
Did your hub take ball bearings or roller bearings.
Andy
- Original Message -----
From: "Ward Stebner" <liason@sk.sympatico.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 01, 2000 5:07 PM
Subject: Brake drums
>
> I just have a quick question about fitting brake drums onto new hubs. I
> purchased new front hubs from British Wire Wheel and I am now trying to
> install the brake drums but have run into a snag. The recess in the
> back of the brake drum that the hub is to fit into is not the same size
> as the hub (the hub is larger). The hub is just large enough to not let
> the brake drum sit flush against it. Any suggestions?
> Thanks!
> Ward Stebner
> 1956 BN2
> Saskatoon, SK
From Kent Lacy <oxballs at netzero.net>
Date: Sat, 02 Sep 2000 00:58:58 -0400
Subject: Re: Top bow color @ BT7
But if you're looking for the correct original color, it's Cumulus Gray
paint code GR-29
Kent
MBran89793@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 9/1/00 11:00:06 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Jhayspu@aol.com
> writes:
>
> << I understand there is a krylon color that is a very good match; any help
> with
> the exact name of the color? >>
>
> The Krylon color is Dove Grey #1605.
> You may also want to check Rustolrum #7786 Smoke Grey and Plastikote #364.
>
> Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
> President & Delegate of Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club
> Concours Committee Chairman- Judges & Judging
> AHCA Liaison for Concours
_______________________________________________
Why pay for something you could get for free?
NetZero provides FREE Internet Access and Email
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Sat, 2 Sep 2000 00:59:05 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Fwd: News Alert from NYTimes.com
---- you wrote:
>
>
> NEWS ALERT
> The New York Times on the Web
> Friday, Sept. 1, 2000 -- 1:20 P.M. E.S.T.
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> 1.8 Million More Faulty Tires May Be On Road, Officials Say
> Federal regulators will issue a warning today that an additional 1.8
> million Firestone tires may be defective, an administration official
> said.
>
> Full story:
> http://www.nytimes.com/yr/mo/day/news/financial/01cnd-tire.html
>
> For news updated throughout the day, visit www.nytimes.com
>
> HOW TO CHANGE YOUR SUBSCRIPTION
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> You received this message because you signed up to receive news alerts
> from NYTimes.com. To cancel delivery, change delivery options,
> change your e-mail address or sign up for other newsletters, see
> http://www.nytimes.com/email
>
>
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From Alan F Cross <AlanX at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 2 Sep 2000 10:22:44 +0100
Subject: Re: 3rd brake light
In message <b3.17a696.26e1a4e9@aol.com>, JSoderling@aol.com writes
>
>In a message dated 8/31/00 6:54:29 PM Pacific Daylight Time, lbcholt@one.net
>writes:
>Bill,
>Thanks for the kind words. I'll pass them on the "Erika". Hope you find
>your Big Healey soon. When you do, Erika would love to have an introduction
>to him!
>John
><<
> Just a quick note to say I enjoyed your article on the 3rd brake light in
> this month's Austin Healey magazine.
Any chance the details of the 3rd brake light can be shared with the
rest of the list? (We don't get to see your mag here in the UK!).
I've been looking into this for some while now. Though the electrics are
a breeze, I'm not sure what's best for the light itself. All those new
parts for modern hard-top cars are for internal use only - so I'm going
to look for an auto-jumble stop light, or even a bicycle rear light.
What do you suggest in your article?
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Sat, 2 Sep 2000 06:37:21 EDT
Subject: New Top (Hood)
My top is in need of replacement and I'd like to hear others'
experiences--good and bad--with the tops from the various suppliers. I am
most concerned with the fit and the accurate location of fasteners, if
installed.
Also, my front bow appears to have just a bit too much arch in it, as during
a good rain I get a persistent drip about in the center. I have changed the
gasket to no avail. Is this something that happens over the years? What can
be done?
TIA--Michael Oritt, St. Leonard, MD
1955 BN1
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Sat, 2 Sep 2000 07:23:29 -0600
Subject: Re: 100-4 running again - Transmission again has 3 speeds!
Allen,
Good news.
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{) 54 BN1
Click below for webpage and mopeds:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
----- Original Message -----
From: "Allen Edwards" <allen@allen-edwards.com>
To: "Gary Anderson" <Editorgary@aol.com>; "Healey List"
<healeys@autox.team.net>; "frogeye" <frogeye@gateway.net>; "Quinn, Patrick"
<Patrick.QUINN@det.nsw.edu.au>; "Krazy Kiwi" <magicare@home.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 02, 2000 3:01 AM
Subject: 100-4 running again - Transmission again has 3 speeds!
> Hi All,
>
> We got the transmission fixed after burning a little midnight oil.
> Everything came out great - it feels and shifts better than ever.
> Thanks to everyone who helped especially Dave@Taos Garage Annex in
> Albuquerque who sold me second gear and Absolutely British who sold me
> the laygear. They both also gave me some great advice. Thanks to
> everyo ne on the list who helped with the problem of the number on the
> laygear being one off of its part number. I ended up replacing the
> second gear, laygear, but had to switch in my old bushings as the ones
> in the used laygear were shot. The machine shop in Campbell, Kaeding
> Performance, did a great job for a fair price.
>
> Allen
>
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 2 Sep 2000 12:17:40 EDT
Subject: Response Tires
Hi Listers,
The tires on my Pontiac are "Response RST". Does anyone know who makes this
brand? I purchased them at a Sears store. I am hoping it isn't Firestone,
as I am preparing for a long trip in the next few days.
Thanks,
Rudy
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Sat, 2 Sep 2000 09:20:41 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: 3rd brake light
Alan
Why don't you equip your LBC with Halogen Stop/Taillights and Turn
Signal/Running Lights - lots brighter and much safer - while you're sorting out
the 3rd light situation.
Johgn uses them in Erika and I'm sure is happy with them
Send me your address and I'll mail you some literature.
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
> In message <b3.17a696.26e1a4e9@aol.com>, JSoderling@aol.com writes
> >
> >In a message dated 8/31/00 6:54:29 PM Pacific Daylight Time, lbcholt@one.net
> >writes:
> >Bill,
> >Thanks for the kind words. I'll pass them on the "Erika". Hope you find
> >your Big Healey soon. When you do, Erika would love to have an introduction
> >to him!
> >John
> ><<
> > Just a quick note to say I enjoyed your article on the 3rd brake light in
> > this month's Austin Healey magazine.
>
>
> Any chance the details of the 3rd brake light can be shared with the
> rest of the list? (We don't get to see your mag here in the UK!).
> I've been looking into this for some while now. Though the electrics are
> a breeze, I'm not sure what's best for the light itself. All those new
> parts for modern hard-top cars are for internal use only - so I'm going
> to look for an auto-jumble stop light, or even a bicycle rear light.
> What do you suggest in your article?
>
> Alan Cross
> Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From NPaul72464 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 2 Sep 2000 13:02:31 EDT
Subject: Looking for a Healey
I have a friend who is seriously looking for a 3000 in excellent condition in
the western New York area. Please let me know if you are aware of some good
bets.
Ned Paulsen
Rochester, NY
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Sat, 02 Sep 2000 10:10:22 -0700
Subject: Re: Healeys on Speedvision
Anyone catch the Barrett Jackson auction from Monaco that aired right
before this show? Some awesome old GP cars.
bk
-------------------------------
At 08:31 PM 9/1/00 , you wrote:
>It will also air at 7:30AM Eastern tomorrow morning (Saturday, 2nd) and
>I've heard sometime on the 4th of Sept.
>
>Bob Haskell
>'60 AH BT-7 MkI
>'64 Mini Cooper S RHD
>'80 MGB LE
>bhaskell@iquest.net
>SOL Healey (URL http://www.team.net/www/healey) web apprentice
>
>Laurie Wilford wrote:
> >
> > While we were at Conclave in Indianapolis,it was metioned that there
> would be a program on Speedvision September 1 about Healeys. It was to
> include footage on Conclave 2000. Does anyone know what time it is
> supposed to air? I was hoping to tape it.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Laurie Wilford
> >
> > _______________________________________________________________________
> >
> > Free Unlimited Internet Access! Try it now!
> > http://www.zdnet.com/downloads/altavista/index.html
> >
> > _______________________________________________________________________
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Sat, 2 Sep 2000 13:20:58 -0500
Subject: Re: Response Tires
hey rudy-
just hope th RST isn't for REALLY SHI--Y TIRES !!
----- Original Message -----
From: CAWS52803@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net, british-cars@autox.team.net
Subject: Response Tires
Date: Sat, 2 Sep 2000 12:17:40 EDT
Hi Listers,
The tires on my Pontiac are "Response RST". Does anyone know who makes this
brand? I purchased them at a Sears store. I am hoping it isn't Firestone,
as I am preparing for a long trip in the next few days.
Thanks,
Rudy
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Sat, 2 Sep 2000 17:01:08 EDT
Subject: Re: Healeys on Speedvision
In a message dated 9/2/00 1:19:06 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
bkatz@handsonresearch.com writes:
<< It will also air at 7:30AM Eastern tomorrow morning (Saturday, 2nd >>
Caught the show this morning, pretty neat. Saw my car at the beginning of
the final pan in front of the speedway.
Michael
From A2Garrison at aol.com
Date: Sat, 2 Sep 2000 17:29:32 EDT
Subject: Re: 3rd brake light
DickB
Earlier this year I purchased a set of halogen lamps from you for my 100-6
and am very satisfied with them with one exception. On the standard bulbs
the turn signals flashed at a typical rate of about once per second. With
the halogens they now flash at a very slow rate, approximately 2 seconds on
and 1 second off. I still use the original Lucas flasher no. FL5 12v 42w
35010A dated 7/58 (who says that their stuff doesn't work?).
Is there another flasher that I should use that will provide a normal flash
rate or is my original just too old to handle halogen bulbs and in need of
replacement?
Alan Garrison
In a message dated 09/02/2000 12:35:13 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
dickb@cheerful.com writes:
<< Why don't you equip your LBC with Halogen Stop/Taillights and Turn
Signal/Running Lights - lots brighter and much safer - while you're sorting
out the 3rd light situation.
Johgn uses them in Erika and I'm sure is happy with them
>>
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Sat, 2 Sep 2000 16:00:18 -0700
Subject: "Flashers"
The halogen bulbs draw more current and thus the flasher flashes the lights
at a slower rate. I had the same problem, I have them only on the rear. If
you would like them to flash at a more typical rate, also constant
regardless what type of bulb you have in you will need an "electronic"
flasher. They will flash "at normal car" rate. What I did on mine was neatly
open the Lucas case and replace the insides with the electronic flasher
insides. It works very well and looks pretty decent, right down to the
screws. I didn't realize what a Lucas flasher was worth prior to opening
it....but tooo late now. The job was fussy but worth the time. One thing to
mention...if you are positive ground you must reverse the electrolytic
capacitor on the new flasher for it to work. If you choose not to change
insides but have positive ground you will still have to open the new case to
reverse the cap.....Neil
Ps. Back on the list again, just returned from vacation, looking forward to
more banter ;-)
----- Original Message -----
From: <A2Garrison@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 02, 2000 2:29 PM
Subject: Re: 3rd brake light
>
> DickB
>
> Earlier this year I purchased a set of halogen lamps from you for my 100-6
> and am very satisfied with them with one exception. On the standard bulbs
> the turn signals flashed at a typical rate of about once per second. With
> the halogens they now flash at a very slow rate, approximately 2 seconds
on
> and 1 second off. I still use the original Lucas flasher no. FL5 12v 42w
> 35010A dated 7/58 (who says that their stuff doesn't work?).
>
> Is there another flasher that I should use that will provide a normal
flash
> rate or is my original just too old to handle halogen bulbs and in need of
> replacement?
>
> Alan Garrison
>
> In a message dated 09/02/2000 12:35:13 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> dickb@cheerful.com writes:
>
> << Why don't you equip your LBC with Halogen Stop/Taillights and Turn
> Signal/Running Lights - lots brighter and much safer - while you're
sorting
> out the 3rd light situation.
>
> Johgn uses them in Erika and I'm sure is happy with them
> >>
>
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Sat, 02 Sep 2000 17:03:48 -0700
Subject: Re: 3rd brake light
Interesting ... when I installed my set of these halogen lamps my
flasher speed went _up_.
-Roland
On Sat, 2 Sep 2000 17:29:32 EDT, you wrote:
::
:: DickB
::
:: Earlier this year I purchased a set of halogen lamps from you for my 100-6
:: and am very satisfied with them with one exception. On the standard bulbs
:: the turn signals flashed at a typical rate of about once per second. With
:: the halogens they now flash at a very slow rate, approximately 2 seconds on
:: and 1 second off. I still use the original Lucas flasher no. FL5 12v 42w
:: 35010A dated 7/58 (who says that their stuff doesn't work?).
::
:: Is there another flasher that I should use that will provide a normal flash
:: rate or is my original just too old to handle halogen bulbs and in need of
:: replacement?
::
:: Alan Garrison
::
From Iwaah at aol.com
Date: Sun, 3 Sep 2000 05:06:44 EDT
Subject: Re: 3rd brake light
Thank you gentlemen
thought that I spent enough time with my car (daily driver to school each
day) until I read someone thinks that the blinker is off by seconds from what
is right or wrong.
God Please let these people drive this car more often
God Please let me drive mine more
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Sun, 3 Sep 2000 09:48:17 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: 3rd brake light
Bill
A packet of literature is on the way.
Dick
---- you wrote:
> Dick,
> Please send some lit. to 82923 Bear Creek, Creswell, OR 97426.
> Thanks, Bill Bolton
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Sep 2000 11:45:15 -0700
Subject: Re: 3rd brake light
ACTUALLY....with the new bulbs in they blinked so slowly that you couldn't
tell you had a blinker on. This isn't a good compromise to brighter lights
if you can't tell the person behind you what you have in mind. As a matter
of fact I put on approx. 4000 miles a year (not a daily driver) and living
in the great northwest of Canada that's not bad mileage for 6 or less months
a year. I also like to tinker with things and what has God got to do with
it?...Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: <Iwaah@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 03, 2000 2:06 AM
Subject: Re: 3rd brake light
>
> Thank you gentlemen
> thought that I spent enough time with my car (daily driver to school each
> day) until I read someone thinks that the blinker is off by seconds from
what
> is right or wrong.
> God Please let these people drive this car more often
> God Please let me drive mine more
>
From Alan F Cross <AlanX at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 3 Sep 2000 20:15:34 +0100
Subject: O/D rubber stop - mine's a set-screw and locknut!
Now diving into my overdrive problems, with the assistance of the manual
and Mr Finespanner's article.
Where they both refer to a rubber stop below the solenoid plunger, I
seem to have a short set screw (which presumably is tapped into the
casing where the rubber stop would go) with a substantial lock nut on
it.
Does anyone know if this is a late variant (mine's a '67), or an after-
mod. I must say it looks like it belongs, and I wouldn't fancy anyone's
chances of tapping the casing at that angle in-situ. In any case, a
modified stop is all that is needed if the PO had a problem here.
Anyone know what I've got here?
T I A.
Alan F Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK
H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny"
From Alan F Cross <AlanX at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 3 Sep 2000 20:23:27 +0100
Subject: Re: 3rd brake light
Presumably, if you wanted to use higher wattage bulbs with your original
flasher, you could run the new lamps via cheap relays (one for each
side), and put whatever additional load across the relay coil to give
the right flash rate. Could tune it to whatever is perfect, or legal, or
both.
Has the advantage that you can de-install the bulbs and relays and get
back to 'authentic and original'.
In message <001a01c015da$1c41c4e0$791ec2cf@neiltrelenberg>, Neil
Trelenberg <neilberg@telus.net> writes
>
>ACTUALLY....with the new bulbs in they blinked so slowly that you couldn't
>tell you had a blinker on. This isn't a good compromise to brighter lights
>if you can't tell the person behind you what you have in mind. As a matter
>of fact I put on approx. 4000 miles a year (not a daily driver) and living
>in the great northwest of Canada that's not bad mileage for 6 or less months
>a year. I also like to tinker with things and what has God got to do with
>it?...Neil
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <Iwaah@aol.com>
>To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Sunday, September 03, 2000 2:06 AM
>Subject: Re: 3rd brake light
>
>
>>
>> Thank you gentlemen
>> thought that I spent enough time with my car (daily driver to school each
>> day) until I read someone thinks that the blinker is off by seconds from
>what
>> is right or wrong.
>> God Please let these people drive this car more often
>> God Please let me drive mine more
>>
>
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Sun, 3 Sep 2000 16:07:07 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: 3rd brake light
Jorge
I need your address and I'll be glad to.
Have you seen the ad in Healey Marque?
DickB
---- you wrote:
> Could you please include me in this mailing, I am also interested in
> brighter tail lights
>
> Thank you
>
> Jorge
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <dickb@cheerful.com>
> To: "Alan F Cross" <AlanX@proaxis.demon.co.uk>
> Cc: "austin healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, September 02, 2000 9:20 AM
> Subject: Re: 3rd brake light
>
>
> >
> > Alan
> >
> > Why don't you equip your LBC with Halogen Stop/Taillights and Turn
> Signal/Running Lights - lots brighter and much safer - while you're sorting
> out the 3rd light situation.
> >
> > Johgn uses them in Erika and I'm sure is happy with them
> >
> > Send me your address and I'll mail you some literature.
> >
> > DickB
> >
> >
> > ---- you wrote:
> > >
> > > In message <b3.17a696.26e1a4e9@aol.com>, JSoderling@aol.com writes
> > > >
> > > >In a message dated 8/31/00 6:54:29 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> lbcholt@one.net
> > > >writes:
> > > >Bill,
> > > >Thanks for the kind words. I'll pass them on the "Erika". Hope you
> find
> > > >your Big Healey soon. When you do, Erika would love to have an
> introduction
> > > >to him!
> > > >John
> > > ><<
> > > > Just a quick note to say I enjoyed your article on the 3rd brake light
> in
> > > > this month's Austin Healey magazine.
> > >
> > >
> > > Any chance the details of the 3rd brake light can be shared with the
> > > rest of the list? (We don't get to see your mag here in the UK!).
> > > I've been looking into this for some while now. Though the electrics are
> > > a breeze, I'm not sure what's best for the light itself. All those new
> > > parts for modern hard-top cars are for internal use only - so I'm going
> > > to look for an auto-jumble stop light, or even a bicycle rear light.
> > > What do you suggest in your article?
> > >
> > > Alan Cross
> > > Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
> > >
> >
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------
> >
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From BillHUCK at aol.com
Date: Sun, 3 Sep 2000 17:46:27 EDT
Subject: Hard starting 100
Having been the sole mechanic on three large Healeys since 1965, I am
embarrassed to admit that my 100 does not start when hot. Cold it's fine,
even with no choke under moderate summer (St.Paul) conditions, & it runs fine.
Dwell is 41 degrees, as it should be. Ignition timing is adjusted for
maximum idle at 900 rpm. Carbs. seem to be setup OK. Exhaust appears dark
gray.
I have noticed that the coil does run hot (?).
Any ideas? Bill Huck, BJ8, BT7, BN1
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Sun, 3 Sep 2000 17:59:48 EDT
Subject: Re: O/D rubber stop - mine's a set-screw and locknut!
Yes the later overdrives had a set screw instead of the rubber buffer
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>Br
itishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From "Phil Nase" <pnase at enter.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Sep 2000 18:35:53 -0400
Subject:
I just completed my first ever attempt at adjusting the valves on my BN1 and
I have a few questions. I found that after adjusting each valve to .012 I
was still out of adjustment if I pushed the car through until the next
revolution of the cam. After discovering this I adjusted each valve again
and checked it through a complete turn of the cam until I had .012 at the
lowest position of the push rod. Does this seem like the correct procedure?
Also, the rubber bushes in the rocker cover of my car are back ordered. If
the old ones are left in place (temporarily to complete the tune up) is
there a danger of them flaking and clogging the oil returns or should I be
patient and wait for the new ones. If I remove the rocker cover after a few
days or weeks will I need to replace the rocker cover gasket yet again?
One more question please. I have a sports coil installed. Should the plug
and or point gap be different for this set up and are there any other tuning
differences I should consider when using the sports coil? Thanks for your
help.
Phil Nase
'55 BN1
From Alan F Cross <AlanX at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 00:31:11 +0100
Subject: Re: O/D rubber stop - mine's a set-screw and locknut!
In message <42.a441bba.26e423d4@aol.com>, HLYDOC@aol.com writes
>Yes the later overdrives had a set screw instead of the rubber buffer
>
>
>David Nock
>President/Service Manager
>British Car Specialists
>2060 N Wilson Way
>Stockton Calif. 95205
>209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
>Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>Br
>itishCarSpecialists.com</A>
>========================================
>Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
>++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Thanks for this, which comes as a bit of a relief!
As this is adjustable, but not mentioned in my workshop manual, does
anyone know how it should be set correctly? I really need to get back to
a working overdrive situation!
Alan F Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK
H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny"
From skip saunders <tfs at mitre.org>
Date: Sun, 03 Sep 2000 20:05:33 -0400
Subject: Re: Brake drums
I had a similar problem, but the difference in size was really very very
small... I just used a piece of emery paper and "sanded" (by hand) the
inside hole for about 5 minutes... There was hardly any material
removed, but that was enough... the drum just fit on with a snug fit
after my "surgery"...
Thanks
-Skip-
b
Ward Stebner wrote:
>
> I just have a quick question about fitting brake drums onto new hubs. I
> purchased new front hubs from British Wire Wheel and I am now trying to
> install the brake drums but have run into a snag. The recess in the
> back of the brake drum that the hub is to fit into is not the same size
> as the hub (the hub is larger). The hub is just large enough to not let
> the brake drum sit flush against it. Any suggestions?
> Thanks!
> Ward Stebner
> 1956 BN2
> Saskatoon, SK
From "Wayne Irons" <wayne at royal.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Sep 2000 20:08:04 -0400
Subject: More Lighting problems
Well, my lighting saga continues. You may recall a few weeks ago that I
complained that my Healey had no lights at all. I diagnosed a bad light
switch, replaced that today, and now my parking lights and headlights work
again.
But still no brake lights or turn signals still! I can hear some buzzing
coming from the relay when I turn on the signal in either direction. And
the interesting thing is that when I step on the brakes, my fuel guage drops
out to empty, and snaps back when I release.
Any hints where to start first?? The relay box, flasher, or just find the
short?
Thanks!
Wayne Irons
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Sun, 3 Sep 2000 20:29:48 EDT
Subject: Re: More Lighting problems
In a message dated 9/3/00 8:08:30 PM Eastern Daylight Time, wayne@royal.net
writes:
<< when I step on the brakes, my fuel guage drops
out to empty, and snaps back when I release. >>
I think that is how it's supposed to be.
From "JISah102" <ah102 at home.com>
Date: Sun, 3 Sep 2000 20:48:49 -0400
Subject: Re: Hard starting 100
I had the same problem on my BN1. A gear-reduction starter from TSI solved
it.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: <BillHUCK@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 03, 2000 5:46 PM
Subject: Hard starting 100
>
> Having been the sole mechanic on three large Healeys since 1965, I am
> embarrassed to admit that my 100 does not start when hot. Cold it's fine,
> even with no choke under moderate summer (St.Paul) conditions, & it runs
fine.
> Dwell is 41 degrees, as it should be. Ignition timing is adjusted for
> maximum idle at 900 rpm. Carbs. seem to be setup OK. Exhaust appears dark
> gray.
> I have noticed that the coil does run hot (?).
> Any ideas? Bill Huck, BJ8, BT7, BN1
>
From Bob Haskell <bhaskell at iquest.net>
Date: Sun, 03 Sep 2000 19:56:02 -0500
Subject: Healey Reflection
While at Auburn this past weekend, I ran across an artist who has just
released a Healey water color print. The image seems to be from a car
show with the cars parked on the grass. The main car is a black 6
cylinder with a red interior. A two tone (blue over white) is reflected
in the rear fender of the 6 cylinder. Pretty neat.
The print comes in two sizes:
12.5" x 18" $125 - edition of 200
10.0" x 7" (approx) $25 - edition of 500
Artist info:
Dan McCrary
Automotive Art Specialties
PO BOX 18795
Charlotte, NC 28218
704 373 2899 (phone)
704 375-8686 (fax)
mccrarydan@aol.com
Bob Haskell
'60 AH BT-7 MkI
'64 Mini Cooper S RHD
'80 MGB LE
bhaskell@iquest.net
SOL Healey (URL http://www.team.net/www/healey) web apprentice
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Sun, 3 Sep 2000 20:51:55 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Hard starting 100
Bill
Try disconnecting (and wrapping up) the ground wire (the anti-theft) on the
distributor. It's a white wire, I believe, without looking at my car or the
wiring diagram.
That wire may be touching the chassis somewhere due to time/chafing/bad cut-off
switch.
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
> Having been the sole mechanic on three large Healeys since 1965, I am
> embarrassed to admit that my 100 does not start when hot. Cold it's fine,
> even with no choke under moderate summer (St.Paul) conditions, & it runs fine.
> Dwell is 41 degrees, as it should be. Ignition timing is adjusted for
> maximum idle at 900 rpm. Carbs. seem to be setup OK. Exhaust appears dark
> gray.
> I have noticed that the coil does run hot (?).
> Any ideas? Bill Huck, BJ8, BT7, BN1
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From Joseph Elmer <Joelmer at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sun, 03 Sep 2000 20:57:16 -0400
Subject: Re: Hard starting 100
Bill: I also have a BN1 - the dwell seems a little low. Where did you find it?
I've been recommended to set mine at 55-60 degrees but only by word of mouth and
not from a tech source. With the dwell at 41 degrees, what is the point gap?
Since it starts well when cold and runs a little sooty, it's probably running a
little too rich and needs the mixture leaned out. Since the coil is bolted to
the
block, I see no way for them not to get hot. I've considered moving it to the
firewall several times but it seems to work fine where it is. If it gets hot
with
the block cold, there is probably a short in the primary windings that would
definitely reduce your spark - but then it wouldn't start cold well either. Joe
Elmer
BillHUCK@aol.com wrote:
> Having been the sole mechanic on three large Healeys since 1965, I am
> embarrassed to admit that my 100 does not start when hot. Cold it's fine,
> even with no choke under moderate summer (St.Paul) conditions, & it runs fine.
> Dwell is 41 degrees, as it should be. Ignition timing is adjusted for
> maximum idle at 900 rpm. Carbs. seem to be setup OK. Exhaust appears dark
> gray.
> I have noticed that the coil does run hot (?).
> Any ideas? Bill Huck, BJ8, BT7, BN1
From Joseph Elmer <Joelmer at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sun, 03 Sep 2000 21:03:20 -0400
Subject: Re:
Until recently I used a 40,000 volt Petronix coil with the plugs gapped out to
.040. The car ran great until I left the ignition on for an extended period of
time and burned it out. I'm back to a 25,000 volt coil with plugs gapped to
.025 as standards specify. The rule of thumb seems to be .001" of gap for each
1000 volts of coil output (others on this list have indicated using .030-.035).
Joe Elmer.
Phil Nase wrote:
> I just completed my first ever attempt at adjusting the valves on my BN1 and
> I have a few questions. I found that after adjusting each valve to .012 I
> was still out of adjustment if I pushed the car through until the next
> revolution of the cam. After discovering this I adjusted each valve again
> and checked it through a complete turn of the cam until I had .012 at the
> lowest position of the push rod. Does this seem like the correct procedure?
>
> Also, the rubber bushes in the rocker cover of my car are back ordered. If
> the old ones are left in place (temporarily to complete the tune up) is
> there a danger of them flaking and clogging the oil returns or should I be
> patient and wait for the new ones. If I remove the rocker cover after a few
> days or weeks will I need to replace the rocker cover gasket yet again?
>
> One more question please. I have a sports coil installed. Should the plug
> and or point gap be different for this set up and are there any other tuning
> differences I should consider when using the sports coil? Thanks for your
> help.
>
> Phil Nase
> '55 BN1
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
Date: Sun, 3 Sep 2000 18:42:50 -0700
Subject: Re: More Lighting problems
This is definitely NOT how it is supposed to be!
----------
> From: Awgertoo@aol.com
> To: wayne@royal.net
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: More Lighting problems
> Date: Sunday, September 03, 2000 5:29 PM
>
>
> In a message dated 9/3/00 8:08:30 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
wayne@royal.net
> writes:
>
> << when I step on the brakes, my fuel guage drops
> out to empty, and snaps back when I release. >>
>
> I think that is how it's supposed to be.
From LucasElec at aol.com
Date: Sun, 3 Sep 2000 21:56:51 EDT
Subject: Re: 3rd brake light
Has anyone hooked up an emergency flasher switch so that all turn signals
flashed together? As much as we are subject to breakdowns, seems like a good
idea. Also the brake light switch seems slow to respond if at all, and is
there a good subistute?
Jim French Louisville Kentucky
1967 Austin Healey BJ8 # 36865
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Sun, 3 Sep 2000 21:16:20 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re:
Phil
1) the correct position of the pushrod IS all the way down, i.e. valve closed.
2) the rubber bushes barely can be seen when you look through the holes in the
rocker cover From The Bottom. Just remove them and clean off the loose rubber
and don't worry. There is hardly room for anything to fall between the bolt
and the walls of the holes.
3) The valve cover gasket can certainly be reused many times. You need not
tighten the hold-down bolts much more than 10-15#psi - which is hardly past
finger-tight. You don't want to overtighten the two bolts and crush the gasket.
4) A Lucas Sports Coil calls for the Same plug gap and Points gap as the Stock
Coil.
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
> I just completed my first ever attempt at adjusting the valves on my BN1 and
> I have a few questions. I found that after adjusting each valve to .012 I
> was still out of adjustment if I pushed the car through until the next
> revolution of the cam. After discovering this I adjusted each valve again
> and checked it through a complete turn of the cam until I had .012 at the
> lowest position of the push rod. Does this seem like the correct procedure?
>
> Also, the rubber bushes in the rocker cover of my car are back ordered. If
> the old ones are left in place (temporarily to complete the tune up) is
> there a danger of them flaking and clogging the oil returns or should I be
> patient and wait for the new ones. If I remove the rocker cover after a few
> days or weeks will I need to replace the rocker cover gasket yet again?
>
> One more question please. I have a sports coil installed. Should the plug
> and or point gap be different for this set up and are there any other tuning
> differences I should consider when using the sports coil? Thanks for your
> help.
>
> Phil Nase
> '55 BN1
>
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 14:33:50 +1000
Subject:
I am currently replacing the rear splines on my BN4
What is the correct torque setting for the 5 nuts which attach the spline
to the hub?
I tried loosening them with a torque wrench to get an idea but they ALL came
undone with the wrench set at the lowest setting possible (< 1 kg mts / 10
ft lb) which seems way to low.
The setting is not listed in the workshop manual.
I looked it up in the archives and found this question has been asked before
but received no reply. Hopefully someone knows the answer.
Thanks in advance.
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Sep 2000 20:49:41 -0700
Subject: Re: 3rd brake light
The current drawn by the bulbs dictates how fast the flasher will operate.
Adding a relay would not be of any benefit, in fact the lights probably
would flash real fast with a low current relay installed. I have kept the
original insides so they could be replaced if nec. Or you could simply use a
new electonic flasher and be done with it....Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan F Cross" <AlanX@proaxis.demon.co.uk>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 03, 2000 12:23 PM
Subject: Re: 3rd brake light
>
> Presumably, if you wanted to use higher wattage bulbs with your original
> flasher, you could run the new lamps via cheap relays (one for each
> side), and put whatever additional load across the relay coil to give
> the right flash rate. Could tune it to whatever is perfect, or legal, or
> both.
>
> Has the advantage that you can de-install the bulbs and relays and get
> back to 'authentic and original'.
>
> In message <001a01c015da$1c41c4e0$791ec2cf@neiltrelenberg>, Neil
> Trelenberg <neilberg@telus.net> writes
> >
> >ACTUALLY....with the new bulbs in they blinked so slowly that you
couldn't
> >tell you had a blinker on. This isn't a good compromise to brighter
lights
> >if you can't tell the person behind you what you have in mind. As a
matter
> >of fact I put on approx. 4000 miles a year (not a daily driver) and
living
> >in the great northwest of Canada that's not bad mileage for 6 or less
months
> >a year. I also like to tinker with things and what has God got to do with
> >it?...Neil
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: <Iwaah@aol.com>
> >To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> >Sent: Sunday, September 03, 2000 2:06 AM
> >Subject: Re: 3rd brake light
> >
> >
> >>
> >> Thank you gentlemen
> >> thought that I spent enough time with my car (daily driver to school
each
> >> day) until I read someone thinks that the blinker is off by seconds
from
> >what
> >> is right or wrong.
> >> God Please let these people drive this car more often
> >> God Please let me drive mine more
> >>
> >
>
> Alan Cross
> Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
>
From Alan F Cross <AlanX at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 10:59:33 +0100
Subject: Re: O/D rubber stop - mine's a set-screw and locknut!
Anybody bursting with curiosity about this unusual variation can see
what I'm talking about at http://www.proaxis.demon.co.uk/healey/
In message <KpKRFDA$8ts5EwvY@proaxis.demon.co.uk>, Alan F Cross
<AlanX@proaxis.demon.co.uk> writes
>
>In message <42.a441bba.26e423d4@aol.com>, HLYDOC@aol.com writes
>>Yes the later overdrives had a set screw instead of the rubber buffer
>>
>>
>>David Nock
>>President/Service Manager
>>British Car Specialists
>>2060 N Wilson Way
>>Stockton Calif. 95205
>>209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
>>Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>Br
>>itishCarSpecialists.com</A>
>>========================================
>>Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
>>++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
>
>
>Thanks for this, which comes as a bit of a relief!
>
>As this is adjustable, but not mentioned in my workshop manual, does
>anyone know how it should be set correctly? I really need to get back to
>a working overdrive situation!
>Alan F Cross
>Wokingham, Berkshire, UK
>H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny"
>
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
From "William A Boylan" <WNBOYLAN at prodigy.net>
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 04:41:33 -0700
Subject: Re: Auxillary Fuel Pump
Famous?........ or In-famous?...... but yes, none other.
----- Original Message -----
From: <TRICARB@aol.com>
To: <WNBOYLAN@prodigy.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 02, 2000 12:45 AM
Subject: Re: Auxillary Fuel Pump
> Is this the famous Bill Boylan of Longview? Cheers, Bill
From "William A Boylan" <WNBOYLAN at prodigy.net>
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 05:08:14 -0700
Subject: Re: Hard starting 100
Bill: Does the motor spin over ok when hot? My 60BT7 was slow spinning
when hot. An overhaul of the starter helped, but not a lot. After much
frustration, I replaced the battery ground cable, WOW, what a difference.
Bill Boylan
60BT7
----- Original Message -----
From: Joseph Elmer <Joelmer@worldnet.att.net>
To: <BillHUCK@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 03, 2000 5:57 PM
Subject: Re: Hard starting 100
>
> Bill: I also have a BN1 - the dwell seems a little low. Where did you
find it?
> I've been recommended to set mine at 55-60 degrees but only by word of
mouth and
> not from a tech source. With the dwell at 41 degrees, what is the point
gap?
> Since it starts well when cold and runs a little sooty, it's probably
running a
> little too rich and needs the mixture leaned out. Since the coil is
bolted to the
> block, I see no way for them not to get hot. I've considered moving it to
the
> firewall several times but it seems to work fine where it is. If it gets
hot with
> the block cold, there is probably a short in the primary windings that
would
> definitely reduce your spark - but then it wouldn't start cold well
either. Joe
> Elmer
>
> BillHUCK@aol.com wrote:
>
> > Having been the sole mechanic on three large Healeys since 1965, I
am
> > embarrassed to admit that my 100 does not start when hot. Cold it's
fine,
> > even with no choke under moderate summer (St.Paul) conditions, & it runs
fine.
> > Dwell is 41 degrees, as it should be. Ignition timing is adjusted
for
> > maximum idle at 900 rpm. Carbs. seem to be setup OK. Exhaust appears
dark
> > gray.
> > I have noticed that the coil does run hot (?).
> > Any ideas? Bill Huck, BJ8, BT7, BN1
>
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 07:15:33 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Healey sighting
Norwest Bank and Wells Fargo have merged and are continuing under the banner
Wells Fargo.
In this area (Minneapolis) they are running a TV commercial which ends with a
shot of a Healey trunk lid (boot lid) and then the helicopter camera zooms back
and you see a Healey Blue over OEWhite BJ8 traveling at speed on a two-lane
country road.
I assume the spot was shot on the West Coast. Anyone's Healey we know?
DickB
----------------------------------------------------------------
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 07:13:58 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Healey sighting
Norwest Bank and Wells Fargo have merged and are continuing under the banner
Wells Fargo.
In this area (Minneapolis) they are running a TV commercial which ends with a
shot of a Healey trunk lid (boot lid) and then the helicopter camera zooms back
and you see a Healey Blue over OEWhite BJ8 traveling at speed on a two-lane
country road.
I assume the spot was shot on the West Coast. Anyone's Healey we know?
DickB
----------------------------------------------------------------
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 06:55:10 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re:
Greg
I would go with 50-60 ft lbs - that's where mine are and that's where most
lugnuts (which are also tapered) are torqued, even on modern cars. I think
it's a function of the size of the fasteners.
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
> I am currently replacing the rear splines on my BN4
>
> What is the correct torque setting for the 5 nuts which attach the spline
> to the hub?
>
> I tried loosening them with a torque wrench to get an idea but they ALL came
> undone with the wrench set at the lowest setting possible (< 1 kg mts / 10
> ft lb) which seems way to low.
>
> The setting is not listed in the workshop manual.
>
> I looked it up in the archives and found this question has been asked before
> but received no reply. Hopefully someone knows the answer.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Greg Bankin
> gregbankin@primus.com.au
> Sunshine Coast
> Queensland
> Australia
>
> '58 BN4
>
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 09:50:34 EDT
Subject: Piston rings
Listers,
I am in the process of rebuilding my BJ8 engine. The stock pistons had 4
rings...3 compression and 1 oil scraper, all at the top of the piston. The
replacements have a groove below the piston pin for what I assume is another
oil control ring, for a total of 5 rings. Do I really need to use this fifth
ring also, or can I leave it out? How important was this ring on the older
cars that had 5 as stock? Thanks again.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 10:28:52 -0500
Subject: take your healey out for a holiday breakfast
hi gang-
in the midst of all this technical furor, don't forget your healey loves an
early morning full song exercise.
the SO and i just returned from a delightful romp to ihop in the bn6. we were
able to confirm the following facts:
1. the TEXAS KOOLER was heard to murmer - " what a cool trip !"
2. the rear halogen bulbs whispered " we may click slow but you'll never brake
us "
3. the front halogen headlamp bulbs residing in the LUCAS LE MANS headlights
got to rest.
4. the dot 5 silicone brake fluid, present in the system since 1992 seemed to
be working just fine.
5. the rally fender vents decided to take a breather.
6. the mini-lite wheels seemed lighter in the cool of the morning.
7. the michelin 175x15's detested being referred to as "rounders"
8. the new $29.96 walmart battery which replaced one just like it that amost
made 60 months was heard to say " i've got to be the best battery deal in town
!"
9. the rocker arm ratio with the bj8 cam seemed to be o.k.
10. the all plastic transistorized SU look-a-like fuel pump, also present
since 1992, was still pumping it's heart out.
11. the gear box seemed to be shifting smooth with low tech 35w non detergent
motor oil ( half 30 and half 40 )
the healey seemed happy with a tank full of 89 octane for breakfast.
see you on a healey trail !!
From Alan F Cross <AlanX at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 13:28:13 +0100
Subject: Re: O/D rubber stop - mine's a set-screw and locknut!
None other than the Coolpix 990 - which is absolutely brilliant for
close-up record shots of bits of my Healey when I'm dismantling - gives
me some sort of clue as to how to put it back together again!! The
images were shot at 2048 x 1536, but cut down to 800 x 600 for the web
page.
I used a conventional camera my the early days (back in February!), but
found that images on film (esp close-ups) might fail, but you wouldn't
know until you got the pix back, by which time the bit of the Healey in
question was in bits, with no record of how it was before.
In message <NEBBJAJIPLLNDFHKDIDGEEGPCAAA.pnase@enter.net>, Phil Nase
<pnase@enter.net> writes
>Hey Alan,
>
>Nice detail on the pictures. What camera are you using? If you don't mind
>my asking.
>
>Phil Nase
>BN1
>Quakertown, PA
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
>> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Alan F Cross
>> Sent: Monday, September 04, 2000 6:00 AM
>> To: healeys@autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: O/D rubber stop - mine's a set-screw and locknut!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Anybody bursting with curiosity about this unusual variation can see
>> what I'm talking about at http://www.proaxis.demon.co.uk/healey/
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 13:40:42 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey sighting
That was shot up in Lake tahoe about 3 weeks ago . The car was out of
southern california, they had aproached me about using my car in the shot but
they decided that a Healey Blue car would look better in the mountians than
my BRG over White
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>Br
itishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From dwflagg at juno.com
Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2000 17:04:18 -0400
Subject: Re:Heater Parts
I have a friend who is in need of the heater box top and the spring clips
for the heater in his '57 BN4. Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at slip.net>
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 11:01:54 -0700
Subject: Diagnostic Quiz #2
Listers,
As much as I enjoy (8-{) the endless discussions about tires, fans and DOT 3/4
vs. DOT 5,
I really appreciated the recent "brain teaser" about the washer in the fuel
tank causing
intermittent engine problems. Had a need to put my own diagnostic skills to
the test this
weekend, while on a trip to Grass Valley, CA from my home in San Jose.
The engine began to lose power suddenly, and I immediately blamed the "usual
suspect" --
the fuel pump -- but some things didn't add up. I used my "audio diagnostic
tool" -- a BMC
AM radio tuned between stations -- to confirm that the pump was at least trying
to pump,
at more or less its usual cadence. Anyway, limped into Grass Valley, performed
the oft-rehearsed
fuel pump transplant, but couldn't be sure problem solved. Car ran great the
next day -- even
drove it in a parade -- but that night had to limp home again, with the engine
barely running and
inclined to stall. It was running poorly at all loads, as opposed to fuel pump
problems where
(usually) the engine will idle but cut out under load (before the pump gives up
the ghost entirely).
Here's what I found:
1) broke the fuel line at the float bowls and pumped a couple of cups of gas
into a can, pump
seemed to be working fine and fuel was clean
2) fuel strainers clear
3) strong spark on all cylinders
4) front 3 cylinders firing fine, back 3 not firing
5) rear float bowl full
Clue: the problem was easy to fix.
Regards,
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@slip.net (home)
San Jose, CA. bspidell@teknema.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
From skip saunders <tfs at mitre.org>
Date: Mon, 04 Sep 2000 14:08:20 -0400
Subject: Re: Diagnostic Quiz #2
The linkage between the SU carbs was loose...
-Skip-
Bob Spidell wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> As much as I enjoy (8-{) the endless discussions about tires, fans and DOT
>3/4 vs. DOT 5,
> I really appreciated the recent "brain teaser" about the washer in the fuel
>tank causing
> intermittent engine problems. Had a need to put my own diagnostic skills to
>the test this
> weekend, while on a trip to Grass Valley, CA from my home in San Jose.
>
> The engine began to lose power suddenly, and I immediately blamed the "usual
>suspect" --
> the fuel pump -- but some things didn't add up. I used my "audio diagnostic
>tool" -- a BMC
> AM radio tuned between stations -- to confirm that the pump was at least
>trying to pump,
> at more or less its usual cadence. Anyway, limped into Grass Valley,
>performed the oft-rehearsed
> fuel pump transplant, but couldn't be sure problem solved. Car ran great the
>next day -- even
> drove it in a parade -- but that night had to limp home again, with the
>engine barely running and
> inclined to stall. It was running poorly at all loads, as opposed to fuel
>pump problems where
> (usually) the engine will idle but cut out under load (before the pump gives
>up the ghost entirely).
>
> Here's what I found:
>
> 1) broke the fuel line at the float bowls and pumped a couple of cups of gas
>into a can, pump
> seemed to be working fine and fuel was clean
>
> 2) fuel strainers clear
>
> 3) strong spark on all cylinders
>
> 4) front 3 cylinders firing fine, back 3 not firing
>
> 5) rear float bowl full
>
> Clue: the problem was easy to fix.
>
> Regards,
> Bob
> ***********************************************************************
> Bob Spidell bspidell@slip.net (home)
> San Jose, CA. bspidell@teknema.com (work)
> `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
> ***********************************************************************
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at slip.net>
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 11:10:29 -0700
Subject: Re: Diagnostic Quiz #2
Nope, but I think I should post that clue. That was something I suspected,
too, but the
linkage was OK.
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@slip.net (home)
San Jose, CA. bspidell@teknema.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "skip saunders" <tfs@mitre.org>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@slip.net>
Cc: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 04, 2000 11:08 AM
Subject: Re: Diagnostic Quiz #2
> The linkage between the SU carbs was loose...
> -Skip-
>
>
> Bob Spidell wrote:
> >
> > Listers,
> >
> > As much as I enjoy (8-{) the endless discussions about tires, fans and DOT
>3/4 vs. DOT 5,
> > I really appreciated the recent "brain teaser" about the washer in the fuel
>tank causing
> > intermittent engine problems. Had a need to put my own diagnostic skills
>to the test this
> > weekend, while on a trip to Grass Valley, CA from my home in San Jose.
> >
> > The engine began to lose power suddenly, and I immediately blamed the
>"usual suspect" --
> > the fuel pump -- but some things didn't add up. I used my "audio
>diagnostic tool" -- a BMC
> > AM radio tuned between stations -- to confirm that the pump was at least
>trying to pump,
> > at more or less its usual cadence. Anyway, limped into Grass Valley,
>performed the
oft-rehearsed
> > fuel pump transplant, but couldn't be sure problem solved. Car ran great
>the next day -- even
> > drove it in a parade -- but that night had to limp home again, with the
>engine barely running
and
> > inclined to stall. It was running poorly at all loads, as opposed to fuel
>pump problems where
> > (usually) the engine will idle but cut out under load (before the pump
>gives up the ghost
entirely).
> >
> > Here's what I found:
> >
> > 1) broke the fuel line at the float bowls and pumped a couple of cups of
>gas into a can, pump
> > seemed to be working fine and fuel was clean
> >
> > 2) fuel strainers clear
> >
> > 3) strong spark on all cylinders
> >
> > 4) front 3 cylinders firing fine, back 3 not firing
> >
> > 5) rear float bowl full
> >
> > Clue: the problem was easy to fix.
> >
> > Regards,
> > Bob
> > ***********************************************************************
> > Bob Spidell bspidell@slip.net (home)
> > San Jose, CA. bspidell@teknema.com (work)
> > `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
> > ***********************************************************************
>
>
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 14:22:51 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Healey sighting
Heck Dave
They could have shot around here (Minnesota) and used my car, or they could
have flown me and my car to Tahoe. <G>
DickB
'62BT7(Tri-Carb) Healey Blue over OE White
---- you wrote:
>
> That was shot up in Lake tahoe about 3 weeks ago . The car was out of
> southern california, they had aproached me about using my car in the shot but
> they decided that a Healey Blue car would look better in the mountians than
> my BRG over White
>
>
> David Nock
> President/Service Manager
> British Car Specialists
> 2060 N Wilson Way
> Stockton Calif. 95205
> 209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
> Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>Br
> itishCarSpecialists.com</A>
> ========================================
> Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
> ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 14:02:28 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Piston rings
You can leave it out but why would you want to?
The four ring pistons were cheaper than the five ring - the replacements that
you have were designed for the same cylinder profiles - BN4-BJ8.
I don't think I'd want to have an empty groove throwing oil around the lower
3/4 of the cylinders.
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
> Listers,
> I am in the process of rebuilding my BJ8 engine. The stock pistons had 4
> rings...3 compression and 1 oil scraper, all at the top of the piston. The
> replacements have a groove below the piston pin for what I assume is another
> oil control ring, for a total of 5 rings. Do I really need to use this fifth
> ring also, or can I leave it out? How important was this ring on the older
> cars that had 5 as stock? Thanks again.
> Cheers,
> Chris
> BJ8
> XJ6
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From "Harrison, Ian" <Ian.Harrison at li.csiro.au>
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 06:02:54 +1100
Subject: Re: Diagnostic Quiz #2
jammed dashpot on SU
Ian
From <costan0 at attglobal.net>
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 12:48:44 -0700
Subject: diagnostic test #2
float in the rear carburetor has a hole , which cause flooding of the last 3
cylinders.
These test are more fun than discussing brake fluid.
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Mon, 04 Sep 2000 16:14:42 -0400
Subject: Re: Diagnostic Quiz #2
The needle fell out of the carb piston...?
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
Bob Spidell wrote:
> Listers,
>
> As much as I enjoy (8-{) the endless discussions about tires, fans and DOT
>3/4 vs. DOT 5,
> I really appreciated the recent "brain teaser" about the washer in the fuel
>tank causing
> intermittent engine problems. Had a need to put my own diagnostic skills to
>the test this
> weekend, while on a trip to Grass Valley, CA from my home in San Jose.
>
> The engine began to lose power suddenly, and I immediately blamed the "usual
>suspect" --
> the fuel pump -- but some things didn't add up. I used my "audio diagnostic
>tool" -- a BMC
> AM radio tuned between stations -- to confirm that the pump was at least
>trying to pump,
> at more or less its usual cadence. Anyway, limped into Grass Valley,
>performed the oft-rehearsed
> fuel pump transplant, but couldn't be sure problem solved. Car ran great the
>next day -- even
> drove it in a parade -- but that night had to limp home again, with the
>engine barely running and
> inclined to stall. It was running poorly at all loads, as opposed to fuel
>pump problems where
> (usually) the engine will idle but cut out under load (before the pump gives
>up the ghost entirely).
>
> Here's what I found:
>
> 1) broke the fuel line at the float bowls and pumped a couple of cups of gas
>into a can, pump
> seemed to be working fine and fuel was clean
>
> 2) fuel strainers clear
>
> 3) strong spark on all cylinders
>
> 4) front 3 cylinders firing fine, back 3 not firing
>
> 5) rear float bowl full
>
> Clue: the problem was easy to fix.
>
> Regards,
> Bob
> ***********************************************************************
> Bob Spidell bspidell@slip.net (home)
> San Jose, CA. bspidell@teknema.com (work)
> `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
> ***********************************************************************
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 15:49:21 -0500
Subject: diagnostic test #2
the vent tube on the rear float bowl was blocked.
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Mon, 04 Sep 2000 16:14:42 -0400
Subject: Re: Diagnostic Quiz #2
The needle fell out of the carb piston...?
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
Bob Spidell wrote:
> Listers,
>
> As much as I enjoy (8-{) the endless discussions about tires, fans and DOT
>3/4 vs. DOT 5,
> I really appreciated the recent "brain teaser" about the washer in the fuel
>tank causing
> intermittent engine problems. Had a need to put my own diagnostic skills to
>the test this
> weekend, while on a trip to Grass Valley, CA from my home in San Jose.
>
> The engine began to lose power suddenly, and I immediately blamed the "usual
>suspect" --
> the fuel pump -- but some things didn't add up. I used my "audio diagnostic
>tool" -- a BMC
> AM radio tuned between stations -- to confirm that the pump was at least
>trying to pump,
> at more or less its usual cadence. Anyway, limped into Grass Valley,
>performed the oft-rehearsed
> fuel pump transplant, but couldn't be sure problem solved. Car ran great the
>next day -- even
> drove it in a parade -- but that night had to limp home again, with the
>engine barely running and
> inclined to stall. It was running poorly at all loads, as opposed to fuel
>pump problems where
> (usually) the engine will idle but cut out under load (before the pump gives
>up the ghost entirely).
>
> Here's what I found:
>
> 1) broke the fuel line at the float bowls and pumped a couple of cups of gas
>into a can, pump
> seemed to be working fine and fuel was clean
>
> 2) fuel strainers clear
>
> 3) strong spark on all cylinders
>
> 4) front 3 cylinders firing fine, back 3 not firing
>
> 5) rear float bowl full
>
> Clue: the problem was easy to fix.
>
> Regards,
> Bob
> ***********************************************************************
> Bob Spidell bspidell@slip.net (home)
> San Jose, CA. bspidell@teknema.com (work)
> `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
> ***********************************************************************
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at slip.net>
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 16:36:29 -0700
Subject: Fw: Diagnostic Quiz #2
Nope, pulled the caps off the dashpots and observed
the (internal) pistons moving normally with throttle opening.
Should've listed that as a clue, too.
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@slip.net (home)
San Jose, CA. bspidell@teknema.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Harrison, Ian" <Ian.Harrison@li.csiro.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 04, 2000 12:02 PM
Subject: Re: Diagnostic Quiz #2
>
> jammed dashpot on SU
>
> Ian
>
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Mon, 04 Sep 2000 20:02:33 -0400
Subject: Re: Diagnostic Quiz #2
Once bitten!!
Is it my turn now?
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
Bob Spidell wrote:
> You win! Skip Saunders got it, too.
>
> Regards,
> Bob
> ***********************************************************************
> Bob Spidell bspidell@slip.net (home)
> San Jose, CA. bspidell@teknema.com (work)
> `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
> ***********************************************************************
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Krazy Kiwi" <magicare@home.com>
> To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@slip.net>
> Cc: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, September 04, 2000 1:14 PM
> Subject: Re: Diagnostic Quiz #2
>
> > The needle fell out of the carb piston...?
> > --
> > Regards,
> >
> > Mike Salter
> > http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> >
> >
> >
> > Bob Spidell wrote:
> >
> > > Listers,
> > >
> > > As much as I enjoy (8-{) the endless discussions about tires, fans and
>DOT 3/4 vs. DOT 5,
> > > I really appreciated the recent "brain teaser" about the washer in the
>fuel tank causing
> > > intermittent engine problems. Had a need to put my own diagnostic skills
>to the test this
> > > weekend, while on a trip to Grass Valley, CA from my home in San Jose.
> > >
> > > The engine began to lose power suddenly, and I immediately blamed the
>"usual suspect" --
> > > the fuel pump -- but some things didn't add up. I used my "audio
>diagnostic tool" -- a BMC
> > > AM radio tuned between stations -- to confirm that the pump was at least
>trying to pump,
> > > at more or less its usual cadence. Anyway, limped into Grass Valley,
>performed the
> oft-rehearsed
> > > fuel pump transplant, but couldn't be sure problem solved. Car ran great
>the next day -- even
> > > drove it in a parade -- but that night had to limp home again, with the
>engine barely running
> and
> > > inclined to stall. It was running poorly at all loads, as opposed to
>fuel pump problems where
> > > (usually) the engine will idle but cut out under load (before the pump
>gives up the ghost
> entirely).
> > >
> > > Here's what I found:
> > >
> > > 1) broke the fuel line at the float bowls and pumped a couple of cups of
>gas into a can, pump
> > > seemed to be working fine and fuel was clean
> > >
> > > 2) fuel strainers clear
> > >
> > > 3) strong spark on all cylinders
> > >
> > > 4) front 3 cylinders firing fine, back 3 not firing
> > >
> > > 5) rear float bowl full
> > >
> > > Clue: the problem was easy to fix.
> > >
> > > Regards,
> > > Bob
> > > ***********************************************************************
> > > Bob Spidell bspidell@slip.net (home)
> > > San Jose, CA. bspidell@teknema.com (work)
> > > `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
> > > ***********************************************************************
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
From "tom.sue.gebhart" <tom.sue.gebhart at netzero.net>
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 19:13:11 -0500
Subject: Which spin on filter?
About two years ago, I bought a spin on oil filter adapter from Moss
Motors
(part# 635-840) but I didn't get their filter thinking I would just pick one
up locally. I am finally around to installing the adapter and haven't
picked up that fiter yet. The Moss instructions suggest using their
#235-880 filter "which incorporates a bypass valve and a drainback
preventer".
Can anyone recommend an equivalent Fram, Puralator, etc (with part #)
that
I can get at a regular parts store or even Walmart? Thanks.
Tom & Sue
Gebhart
_____NetZero Free Internet Access and Email______
http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html
From MBran89793 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 20:38:34 EDT
Subject: Re: Which spin on filter?
I use the Fram #PH-3600 or # PH-3963.
Marion S. Brantley
BJ-8 "Blackie"
BT-7 "Heather"
BT-7 "Red"
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 20:54:58 EDT
Subject: Re: 3rd brake light
In a message dated 9/2/00 2:25:06 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
AlanX@proaxis.demon.co.uk writes:
Alan,
The cool looking 3rd brake light that looks great and fits so nicely on a big
Healey is one used on a 1999/2000 Chevrolet Suburban or Blazer. I purchased
mine at a Chevrolet dealer parts department. It is GM part #15030176 and
cost $112 here in the USA. The unit is made of attractive black plastic, is
LED and has a low profile of only 1" high by 2" deep by 16" wide. It fits
perfectly, centered on the rear shroud between the edge of the boot lid and
the tonneau cover edge on a 2+2 seater. Fits even easier on a 2 seater.
I'll try scanning a copy of my Austin Healey Magazine article and emailing it
to you.
John
100-Six Erika the Red
<<
>writes:
>Bill,
>Thanks for the kind words. I'll pass them on the "Erika". Hope you find
>your Big Healey soon. When you do, Erika would love to have an
introduction
>to him!
>John
><<
> Just a quick note to say I enjoyed your article on the 3rd brake light in
> this month's Austin Healey magazine.
Any chance the details of the 3rd brake light can be shared with the
rest of the list? (We don't get to see your mag here in the UK!).
I've been looking into this for some while now. Though the electrics are
a breeze, I'm not sure what's best for the light itself. All those new
parts for modern hard-top cars are for internal use only - so I'm going
to look for an auto-jumble stop light, or even a bicycle rear light.
What do you suggest in your article?
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
----------------------- Headers --------------------------------
Return-Path: <AlanX@proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Received: from rly-za03.mx.aol.com (rly-za03.mail.aol.com [172.31.36.99])
by air- >>
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 21:23:22 EDT
Subject: Re: Which spin on filter?
In a message dated 09/04/2000 7:41:50 PM Central Daylight Time,
MBran89793@aol.com writes:
<< Fram #PH-3600 or # PH-3963. >>
Two of THE worst available, Marion!!
Ed
From dwflagg at juno.com
Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2000 20:30:01 -0400
Subject: Re:Where Are They Now?
Hi,
I would be interested in knowing if anyone has knowledge of where two
Healeys I used to own may be now. The first is a maroon '60 Bugeye,
AN5L25926, last registered by me in New York, July 1963. The second is a
white (at the time) '56 BN2, BN2L233023 last registered by me in
Virginia, June 1989. TIA.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 21:51:28 EDT
Subject: Re: Diagnostic Quiz #2
You had a major vacuum leak at thepower servo pick up on the rear of the
intake manifold
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>Br
itishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From "David" <david_m at radiantsoundworks.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 22:36:58 -0700
Subject: Re: Piston rings
Geez dude....is that 5th ring really going to burn enough power that you'd
want to leave them off? Well I got to admit, there was significant friction
putting those 5 ring pistons into those bores. I thought about leaving them
off, but I decided why bother. Let me know what you do.
U Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: <Csooch1@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 04, 2000 6:50 AM
Subject: Piston rings
>
> Listers,
> I am in the process of rebuilding my BJ8 engine. The stock pistons had 4
> rings...3 compression and 1 oil scraper, all at the top of the piston.
The
> replacements have a groove below the piston pin for what I assume is
another
> oil control ring, for a total of 5 rings. Do I really need to use this
fifth
> ring also, or can I leave it out? How important was this ring on the
older
> cars that had 5 as stock? Thanks again.
> Cheers,
> Chris
> BJ8
> XJ6
>
From David Neale <dneale at pacbell.net>
Date: Mon, 04 Sep 2000 03:00:42 -0700
Subject: Re: BN7 Gear Box
I am in the process of having my 4 speed, side shift, gear box
reconditioned. Does any one know where I can get a replacement, or have my
existing, CLUSTER or LAYGEAR replaced or reconditioned in Bay Area.
Thanks
DAVID NEALE
BN7
BJ8
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Mon, 04 Sep 2000 22:59:21 -0700
Subject: Re: Which spin on filter?
I use a Mobil 1 filter equivalent to the Fram PH3600
The Mobil 1 filter is reputed to be stronger and to do a more thorough
job of filtering. I buy them at Kragen Auto Parts.
-Roland
BJ7
On Mon, 4 Sep 2000 19:13:11 -0500, you wrote:
::
:: About two years ago, I bought a spin on oil filter adapter from Moss
:Motors
:: (part# 635-840) but I didn't get their filter thinking I would just pick one
:: up locally. I am finally around to installing the adapter and haven't
:: picked up that fiter yet. The Moss instructions suggest using their
:: #235-880 filter "which incorporates a bypass valve and a drainback
:: preventer".
::
:: Can anyone recommend an equivalent Fram, Puralator, etc (with part #)
:that
:: I can get at a regular parts store or even Walmart? Thanks.
::
:: Tom & Sue
:: Gebhart
::
::
::
:: _____NetZero Free Internet Access and Email______
:: http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2000 07:58:20 -0400
Subject: Diagnostic Quiz #3
this one had us stumped for a while...
The car is a BN2.
The problem is poor brakes.
Present owner has owned the car for 22 years.
When he bought the car it was fitted with a BJ8 servo unit.
The servo started eating brake fluid so I recommended that he remove it
as BN2 brakes are not too bad
in standard form. (Silly me)
With the servo removed the car is very hard to stop.
Clue...
When you really stand on the brakes the rear locks up first.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
From skip saunders <tfs at mitre.org>
Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2000 08:09:32 -0400
Subject: Re: Diagnostic Quiz #3
was the master cylinder the right diameter for the standard form brake
system?
-Skip-
Krazy Kiwi wrote:
>
> this one had us stumped for a while...
>
> The car is a BN2.
>
> The problem is poor brakes.
>
> Present owner has owned the car for 22 years.
> When he bought the car it was fitted with a BJ8 servo unit.
> The servo started eating brake fluid so I recommended that he remove it
> as BN2 brakes are not too bad
> in standard form. (Silly me)
> With the servo removed the car is very hard to stop.
>
> Clue...
> When you really stand on the brakes the rear locks up first.
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
From BGAHC at aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 08:31:07 EDT
Subject: Midget and BT7 for sale in Louisville, KY
I've been asked to help market two cars that are both nice deals. No
financial interest, etc., just people I know and both cars are nice,
especially the Midget. You can see photos of the midget at
http://hometown.aol.com/bgahc/jwha_cars_for_sale.html or through
www.jamesfwerner.com then Cars for Sale.
Thanks, Jim Werner
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------------
This one is a rare opportunity! Judy's Uncle, Bill Fryrear, is a Healey
owner who stumbled across this 1979 MG Midget about 12 years ago. The car was
owned by a couple who had bought it new as an occasional car and kept it
pampered. Bill owned it for years until he bought his Hundred then sold it to
his niece. This car is completely original, not a restoration. Less than 20K
original miles. Garaged and pampered since new. Never damaged. Asking
$9.0000. Call 502-543-6477, Louisville KY. or email Judy at
JUDY_WATHEN@udlp.com
1962 Austin Healey 3000 MKII BT-7. Healey blue with Ivory sides, Original
Hard Top, runs great. No rust. Professional restoration -- receipts
available. $23,000 Tom's retired now and is going to use the proceeds from
the sale to buy a fishing boat. Tom Osbourne 502-635-6710 Louisville, KY
KSOSBORNE@Worldnet.ATT.net
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Visit my Healey Adventure site at www.jamesfwerner.com
From "Harrison, Ian" <Ian.Harrison at li.csiro.au>
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 23:46:00 +1100
Subject: Diagnostic Quiz #3
Is it one of the following or a combination?
hard front linings
Wheel cylinders too large (altered from standard)
From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2000 09:07:51 EDT
Subject: Re: Which spin on filter?
I'd stay away from the fram filters. They are about the cheapest out there
from a construction standpoint. Cardboard ends on the filter, leaky cheap
plastic anti-drain back valve, etc. I like the AC/Delco filters best as they
are built the stoutest. Metal internals and a large filter area with respect
to the Fram. Purolators are also good, but they use a string to hold the
filter paper in place which tends to crimp the corners of the filter pleats
when assembling. Still a good construction and my second choice when I can't
find AC. Wix is my third choice. They make filters for NAPA, and I run that in
the Healey. Good construction as well, but a little more expensive.
I'd cross refrence the fram number and buy another brand. Fram makes a really
bad oil filter in my opinion.
Tim Wallace
'67 BJ8
Fuquay-Varina, NC
In a message dated Mon, 4 Sep 2000 8:41:48 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
MBran89793@aol.com writes:
<<
I use the Fram #PH-3600 or # PH-3963.
Marion S. Brantley
BJ-8 "Blackie"
BT-7 "Heather"
BT-7 "Red"
>>
From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 06:25:44 -0700
Subject: RE: Which spin on filter?
It's a Fram PH3600.
-----Original Message-----
From: tom.sue.gebhart [mailto:tom.sue.gebhart@netzero.net]
Sent: Monday, September 04, 2000 5:13 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Which spin on filter?
About two years ago, I bought a spin on oil filter adapter from Moss
Motors
(part# 635-840) but I didn't get their filter thinking I would just pick one
up locally. I am finally around to installing the adapter and haven't
picked up that fiter yet. The Moss instructions suggest using their
#235-880 filter "which incorporates a bypass valve and a drainback
preventer".
Can anyone recommend an equivalent Fram, Puralator, etc (with part
#) that
I can get at a regular parts store or even Walmart? Thanks.
Tom & Sue
Gebhart
_____NetZero Free Internet Access and Email______
http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 10:33:02 EDT
Subject: Re: Which spin on filter?
In a message dated 09/04/2000 9:02:58 PM Central Daylight Time, MBran89793
writes:
<< Which do you recommend? >>
Marion, etal:
I have been trying to find a report on filters that
a] I originally got from mgs List;
b] Is "supposed to be" on a mopar page;
c] old link is bad;
d] new link is bad;
e] I have written author for assistence;
f] Will report as soon as I rec news.
Cheers.............
Ed
From Herman Farrer <herman at hfphoto.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 10:59:27 -0400
Subject: Re: Which spin on filter?
>I'd stay away from the fram filters. They are about the cheapest
>out there from a construction standpoint. Cardboard ends on the
>filter, leaky cheap plastic anti-drain back valve, etc. I like the
>AC/Delco filters best as they are built the stoutest. Metal
>internals and a large filter area with respect to the Fram.
I tried an AC/Delco after a Fram, but noticed that it took about
several seconds for the oil pressure to register past zero. With the
Fram it come right up after tick over. I can only assume that the
anti-drain back valve isn't effective. I switched back to a Fram, but
have been planning on trying a Wix/Napa next.
Herman
--
Lucas trained Webmaster
Capital Area Austin Healey Club
http://lightning.prohosting.com/~caahc
From "Brad Weldon" <bweldon at georgefox.edu>
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 08:33:51 -0700
Subject: Oil Filter Report URL (was: Which spin on filter?)
Regarding the Oil Filter Report:
Using Yahoo! and Google, I found the recently moved website at:
http://members.xoom.com/minimopar/oilfilterstudy.html
Brad
55 bn1
AHCUSA Webmaster
http://www.healey.org/
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of JustBrits@aol.com
> Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2000 07:33 AM
> To: MBran89793@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Which spin on filter?
>
>
>
> In a message dated 09/04/2000 9:02:58 PM Central Daylight
> Time, MBran89793
> writes:
>
> << Which do you recommend? >>
>
> Marion, etal:
>
> I have been trying to find a report on filters that
>
> a] I originally got from mgs List;
> b] Is "supposed to be" on a mopar page;
> c] old link is bad;
> d] new link is bad;
> e] I have written author for assistence;
> f] Will report as soon as I rec news.
>
> Cheers.............
>
> Ed
>
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 11:51:49 EDT
Subject: Re: Oil Filter Report URL (was: Which spin on filter?)
In a message dated 09/05/2000 10:36:55 AM Central Daylight Time,
bweldon@georgefox.edu writes:
<< Regarding the Oil Filter Report:
Using Yahoo! and Google, I found the recently moved website at:
http://members.xoom.com/minimopar/oilfilterstudy.html >>
And this is what I got, guys:
Could Not Connect
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
Description: Could not connect to the server "members.xoom.com".
Ed
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 11:19:56 -0500
Subject: RE:
Greg,
Failing to find any specs. on the torque for those nuts I opted to use 72
lbs-ft which is the torque I use on the wheel lugnuts on my daily driver.
Also, I would suggest running the nuts onto a bolt first to see if the
locking action is still functional.
Regards,
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: Greg Bankin [mailto:gregbankin@primus.com.au]
Sent: Sunday, September 03, 2000 9:34 PM
To: Healey List
Subject:
>>What is the correct torque setting for the 5 nuts which attach the spline
to the hub?<<
From "Brad Weldon" <bweldon at georgefox.edu>
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 09:38:56 -0700
Subject: RE: Oil Filter Report URL (was: Which spin on filter?)
Well, it appears that Xoom.com wants to use framesets in their html... so
the complete URL should be...
http://members.xoom.com/_XMCM/minimopar/oilfilterstudy.html
If that doesn't work, follow this path:
- http://members.xoom.com/minimopar/index.html
- click on "What's New" (top right corner)
- click on "Oil Filter Study" in the 06/20/00 entry.
Xoom's servers sure seem s l o w ...
Brad
55 bn1
webmaster AHCUSA
http://www.healey.org/
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of JustBrits@aol.com
> Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2000 08:52 AM
> To: bweldon@georgefox.edu; MBran89793@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Oil Filter Report URL (was: Which spin on filter?)
>
>
>
> In a message dated 09/05/2000 10:36:55 AM Central Daylight Time,
> bweldon@georgefox.edu writes:
>
> << Regarding the Oil Filter Report:
> Using Yahoo! and Google, I found the recently moved website at:
> http://members.xoom.com/minimopar/oilfilterstudy.html >>
> And this is what I got, guys:
>
> Could Not Connect
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> ----------------
> --
> Description: Could not connect to the server "members.xoom.com".
>
> Ed
>
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2000 09:45:41 -0700
Subject: Re: Oil Filter Report URL (was: Which spin on filter?)
Here's the new link, I had some trouble getting in, but that's because Xoom
sucks so bad.
http://members.xoom.com/minimopar/index.html
bk
----------------------------
At 08:51 AM 9/5/00 , you wrote:
>In a message dated 09/05/2000 10:36:55 AM Central Daylight Time,
>bweldon@georgefox.edu writes:
>
><< Regarding the Oil Filter Report:
> Using Yahoo! and Google, I found the recently moved website at:
> http://members.xoom.com/minimopar/oilfilterstudy.html >>
>And this is what I got, guys:
>
>Could Not Connect
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>--
>Description: Could not connect to the server "members.xoom.com".
>
>Ed
From jclose at sduhsd.k12.ca.us
Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2000 12:08:37 -0800
Subject: BN6 Shut Face Finisher Screws
Hello Listers - I need to know the location/spacing of the screws in the shut
face finisher that runs across the bottom of the door opening, on top of the
rocker panel. Would someone please forward that info to me? - Thanks - JohnC
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 13:18:17 EDT
Subject: Re: Which spin on filter?
In a message dated 9/5/00 11:00:29 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
herman@hfphoto.com writes:
<< but have been planning on trying a Wix/Napa next. >>
I have been told that the NAPA Gold filters are made by WIX and are superior.
Michael
From John Trifari <john4 at home.com>
Date: Mon, 04 Sep 2000 22:36:19 -0700
Subject: Re: Healey sighting
Thye wanted my car too, but wouldn't spell out their insurance
coverasge. For $500 I passed. John Trifari
HLYDOC@aol.com wrote:
>
> That was shot up in Lake tahoe about 3 weeks ago . The car was out of
> southern california, they had aproached me about using my car in the shot but
> they decided that a Healey Blue car would look better in the mountians than
> my BRG over White
>
> David Nock
> President/Service Manager
> British Car Specialists
> 2060 N Wilson Way
> Stockton Calif. 95205
> 209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
> Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>Br
> itishCarSpecialists.com</A>
> ========================================
> Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
> ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2000 13:59:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Diagnostic Quiz #3
Yes
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
skip saunders wrote:
> was the master cylinder the right diameter for the standard form brake
> system?
> -Skip-
>
> Krazy Kiwi wrote:
> >
> > this one had us stumped for a while...
> >
> > The car is a BN2.
> >
> > The problem is poor brakes.
> >
> > Present owner has owned the car for 22 years.
> > When he bought the car it was fitted with a BJ8 servo unit.
> > The servo started eating brake fluid so I recommended that he remove it
> > as BN2 brakes are not too bad
> > in standard form. (Silly me)
> > With the servo removed the car is very hard to stop.
> >
> > Clue...
> > When you really stand on the brakes the rear locks up first.
> > --
> > Regards,
> >
> > Mike Salter
> > http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2000 14:01:07 -0400
Subject: Re: Diagnostic Quiz #3
cstinehelfer@bajamarine.com wrote:
> Flexible hoses needed replacement.........
All were changed and did not improve brakes :-(
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2000 14:02:09 -0400
Subject: Re: Diagnostic Quiz #3
"Harrison, Ian" wrote:
> Is it one of the following or a combination?
>
> hard front linings
> Wheel cylinders too large (altered from standard)
>
Correct wheel cylinders not seized or leaking...
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2000 14:03:23 -0400
Subject: Re: Diagnostic Quiz #3
RobertH148@aol.com wrote:
> The master cylinder was probably changed out at the time the assist unit was
>installed. This most likely is the cause of hard braking.
> Bob Humphreys
Original BN1/2 type master cylinder still installed and working correctly..
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2000 14:05:11 -0400
Subject: Re: Diagnostic Quiz #3
"Harrison, Ian" wrote:
> Is it one of the following or a combination?
>
> hard front linings
Front shoes had been changed to try and correct the problem. We changed
them again which made no difference so we refitted the almost new
originals..
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 11:12:08 -0700
Subject: RE: Diagnostic Quiz #3
Pinched brake pipe in the front?
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Salter [mailto:magicare@home.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2000 11:03 AM
To: RobertH148@aol.com; Healey List
Subject: Re: Diagnostic Quiz #3
RobertH148@aol.com wrote:
> The master cylinder was probably changed out at the time the assist unit
was installed. This most likely is the cause of hard braking.
> Bob Humphreys
Original BN1/2 type master cylinder still installed and working correctly..
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From John Trifari <john4 at home.com>
Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2000 00:07:17 -0700
Subject: September Bay Area Healey Events
September Event Alerts
September 24 Mystery Tour
The September 24th event is no longer a mystery. The central attraction
of this event will be a visit to a new automobile museum in Vallejo.
The museum visit will include a catered lunch ($10.00 per person).
There are about twenty vehicles on display in the museum plus some
Harley-Davidson and Indian motorcycles. Vehicles range from a V12
Hispano-Suisa to a Dale Earnhardt Winston Cup race car. There is a
Panhard which is the
only wine truck remaining in the world. Also on display is a Henney
hearse that was in the movie Bad Day at Black Rock and a circus clown
vehicle.
To fill out the day, we will start with a guided tour of Mare Island,
in our own vehicles, for those who wish to do so. Cost of the tour is
$7.00 per person. For those that do not wish to tour Mare Island, there
is the site of the second state capitol in Vallejo and a Heritage
District that contains many old homes. After lunch, there are
several historical sites in Benicia that they will be directed to
including the Benicia State Capitol, the Benicia Arsenal with its Camel
Barn Museum, and others that can be visited as time allows.
If you plan to attend or you want more information, please contact Len
Hartnett by mail at 491 Deodara Street, Vacaville, CA, 95688-2636, by
phone or fax at 707 448 3027, or by e-mail at thehartnetts@earthlink.net
NO LATER THAN SEPTEMBER 10, 2000.
Please provide name, address, phone number, (e-mail address optional),
and number of people. You will then be sent further information and a
detailed reservation form.
September 17 Swap Meet
Big Mini Mania moving sale. No cost to buy or sell, 15% discount on
all counter sales.
When: 7:30AM - 3PM Sunday September 17.
Where: Mini Mania 31 Windsor Street, Milpitas
How: Drive east on 237 (Calaveras Blvd.) from I-880 through
Milpitas.
As 237 swings left, continue straight onto Carlo Street. Cross over
South Main Street and proceed one block until roads dead ends. Turn
left onto Windsor Street. If you go on the overpass over the railroad
tracks you've missed it. If you miss the Carlo Street turn off or if
you are coming off I-680 and heading west into Milpitas, Cross over the
tracks and take the Main Street turn-off. Loop under 237 to Windsor
Street.
From Ed Santoro <esantoro at drbc.state.nj.us>
Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2000 15:30:59 -0700
Subject: AH Thermostat
To The List :
A buddy recently read and article about a thermostat for a big healey
which has a sleeve which moves up and down and covers the bypass hole.
This results in a cooler running engine. Does anyone know anthing more
about these thermostats and where it can be ordered and a part number?
TIA EDS
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2000 15:53:34 -0400
Subject: Re: Diagnostic Quiz #3
Good idea but no....the brakes were easily bled.
Wanna clue?
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
costan0@attglobal.net wrote:
> The brake line union was plugged for the front?
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Krazy Kiwi" <magicare@home.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2000 4:58 AM
> Subject: Diagnostic Quiz #3
>
> >
> >
> > this one had us stumped for a while...
> >
> > The car is a BN2.
> >
> > The problem is poor brakes.
> >
> > Present owner has owned the car for 22 years.
> > When he bought the car it was fitted with a BJ8 servo unit.
> > The servo started eating brake fluid so I recommended that he remove it
> > as BN2 brakes are not too bad
> > in standard form. (Silly me)
> > With the servo removed the car is very hard to stop.
> >
> > Clue...
> > When you really stand on the brakes the rear locks up first.
> > --
> > Regards,
> >
> > Mike Salter
> > http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> >
> >
From <costan0 at attglobal.net>
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 13:16:47 -0700
Subject: Xoom website and oil filter specs
I found this web site interesting and certainly it could change my
purchasing of oil filters. The site moves so sloooooow that I finally gave
up. Are all of you trying to access the site at the same time?
From "S.HUTCHINGS" <hutching at myna.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 16:26:10 -0400
Subject: Xoom website and oil filter specs
A clue? Yes please.
Stephen
From "S.HUTCHINGS" <hutching at myna.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 16:28:34 -0400
Subject: Re; Re; Diagnostic Quiz #3
A clue? Yes please.
Stephen
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 16:20:13 -0500
Subject: Re: AH Thermostat
hi ed-
just in case, you better use a TEXAS KOOLER with that special thermostat.
----- Original Message -----
From: Ed Santoro <esantoro@drbc.state.nj.us>
To: healeylist <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: AH Thermostat
Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2000 15:30:59 -0700
To The List :
A buddy recently read and article about a thermostat for a big healey
which has a sleeve which moves up and down and covers the bypass hole.
This results in a cooler running engine. Does anyone know anthing more
about these thermostats and where it can be ordered and a part number?
TIA EDS
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 18:39:24 EDT
Subject: Re: Diagnostic Quiz #3
In a message dated 9/5/00 12:53:46 PM, magicare@home.com writes:
<< Good idea but no....the brakes were easily bled.
Wanna clue? >>
Could you give me two out of four choices?
Cheers
Gary
From rfeibusch at loop.com (Richard Feibusch)
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 16:25:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Reminder - Palo Alto Meet 2000
The 2000 Palo Alto British Car Meet
SATURDAY & SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 9th & 10th
/////////////////////////////////////////////////////
* Saturday, September 9th - Join us for a fun-filled morning Brunch Tour to
The Sea coordinated by British Car Magazine. We've decided to move the
rendezvous for this Saturday event to the British Car Magazine parking lot
in Los Altos rather than competing with trillions of soccer moms in
suburban assault vehicles at El Camino Park.
The location is on San Antonio Road in Los Altos, between Whitney and
Second Streets. From 101, exit on San Antonio West towards Los Altos.
Proceed half a mile past stop lights at Edith and turn right at Whitney (76
station). From 280, exit on El Monte going east towards Los Altos, turn
left on Foothill expressway, then right on San Antonio and finally left on
Whitney (76 station). Cars will be staged between 8:30 and 10:00.
This FREE tour offers an optional barbecue buffet (ribs, chicken, etc.) in
Cameron's Pub party room by the parking lot at the cost of $18.50 per
person or you may order. There will be no preregistration but please
let the British Car Magazine staff know if you plan to attend.
For tour information call: 650-949-9680 or email: BritCarMag@aol.com
////////////////////////////////////////////////////
* Sunday, September 10th - Be part of one of the biggest British car shows
in America! Over 800 cars are expected to fill El Camino Park in Palo Alto.
Daily drivers, street rods and works-in-progress are as welcome as Concours
quality show cars. Great British food, live music and more fun than you'll
be able to tolerate! All participants will receive a meet memento. Field
entry starts at 9:00AM. There is no preregistration. Fee is only $20 per
car at the gate. Spectators attend free!
El Camino Park is on the El Camino Real, one block north of University
Avenue opposite the main entrance to the Stanford Shopping Center. From
101, take the University Avenue exit west, turn north onto the El Camino,
then turn right into the park.
For meet information call: 310-392-6605 or email: rfeibusch@loop.com
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 19:27:47 -0400
Subject: Re: Diagnostic Quiz #3
May I phone a friend? :)
no....the brakes were easily bled.
> Wanna clue? >>
>
> Could you give me two out of four choices?
> Cheers
> Gary
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2000 16:34:40 -0700
Subject: Re: Diagnostic Quiz #3
On Tue, 05 Sep 2000 07:58:20 -0400, you wrote:
If the rear brakes lock up first, then either the fronts aren't
working at all, or they aren't working as two- leading- shoe
brakes.With no mechanical servo action the pedal would be very
demanding. I would assume that you adjusted the fronts so you checked
that they were working, at least sort of. How can you hook up
leading shoe brakes so that they act as trailing shoe brakes? The
rears, with a single cylinder just have to be one leading one
trailing.
Left and right front cylinders switched???
-Roland
:: this one had us stumped for a while...
::
:: The car is a BN2.
::
:: The problem is poor brakes.
::
:: Present owner has owned the car for 22 years.
:: When he bought the car it was fitted with a BJ8 servo unit.
:: The servo started eating brake fluid so I recommended that he remove it
:: as BN2 brakes are not too bad
:: in standard form. (Silly me)
:: With the servo removed the car is very hard to stop.
::
:: Clue...
:: When you really stand on the brakes the rear locks up first.
From NPaul72464 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 19:31:12 EDT
Subject: BN7 gearbox
David,
I recently had my BN7 laygear replaced by a local business called British
Auto <A HREF="http://britishauto.com/";>British Auto - Home Page</A> near
Rochester, NY. The fellow had a hard time locating the part and finally
found one in England which had been reconditioned. Had to send them the old
one.
Good luck.
Ned Paulsen
1960 BN7
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2000 19:40:01 -0400
Subject: Re: Diagnostic Quiz #3
Roland is very close...
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
Roland Wilhelmy wrote:
> If the rear brakes lock up first, then either the fronts aren't
> working at all, or they aren't working as two- leading- shoe
> brakes.With no mechanical servo action the pedal would be very
> demanding. I would assume that you adjusted the fronts so you checked
> that they were working, at least sort of. How can you hook up
> leading shoe brakes so that they act as trailing shoe brakes? The
> rears, with a single cylinder just have to be one leading one
> trailing.
>
> Left and right front cylinders switched???
>
> -Roland
>
> On Tue, 05 Sep 2000 07:58:20 -0400, you wrote:
>
> ::
> ::
> :: this one had us stumped for a while...
> ::
> :: The car is a BN2.
> ::
> :: The problem is poor brakes.
> ::
> :: Present owner has owned the car for 22 years.
> :: When he bought the car it was fitted with a BJ8 servo unit.
> :: The servo started eating brake fluid so I recommended that he remove it
> :: as BN2 brakes are not too bad
> :: in standard form. (Silly me)
> :: With the servo removed the car is very hard to stop.
> ::
> :: Clue...
> :: When you really stand on the brakes the rear locks up first.
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2000 20:00:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Diagnostic Quiz #3
>
Here is a clue...
I suspect that Murphy was a previous owner.....
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
From MBran89793 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 20:21:14 EDT
Subject: Re: Which spin on filter?
In a message dated 9/5/00 9:07:51 AM Eastern Daylight Time, Healybj8 writes:
<< AC/Delco filters >>
OK, but what is the part number? You won't find a spin-on filter listed for
an Austin-Healey 100/100-6/3000.
While you are at it what is the NAPA part number for the equivalent Wix
#51068?
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
From "Eyvind Larssen" <seel at online.no>
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 02:33:42 +0200
Subject: SV: Diagnostic Quiz #3
Then... how about front- and back-brakes swapped....????
Frontcylinders on back.... backcylinders on fronwheels....
Eyvind Larrsen 60BT7
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 11:23:48 +1000
Subject: Re: Diagnostic Quiz #3
I'd like to use a lifeline - Can I 'phone a friend ?
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <magicare@home.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, 6 September 2000 8:39
Subject: Re: Diagnostic Quiz #3
>
>
> In a message dated 9/5/00 12:53:46 PM, magicare@home.com writes:
>
> << Good idea but no....the brakes were easily bled.
> Wanna clue? >>
>
> Could you give me two out of four choices?
> Cheers
> Gary
From Charlie Baldwin <ewsinc at blazenet.net>
Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2000 21:34:14 -0400
Subject: Re: BN7 Gear Box
David Neale wrote:
> I am in the process of having my 4 speed, side shift, gear box
> reconditioned. Does any one know where I can get a replacement, or have my
> existing, CLUSTER or LAYGEAR replaced or reconditioned in Bay Area.
>
> Thanks
> DAVID NEALE
> BN7
> BJ8
David,
I have an NOS laygear in the original box, part number AEC 3359 which is for
side shift gear boxes up to engine number 29EUH10896. I don't know if this is
the correct one for your car or not. It is in as new condition, has no rust or
any other problems. The box and the original protective waxed paper are not
that nice. If this is correct for your car, contact me and we can work
something out. The Moss catalogue wants around $400 for the laygear that they
carry for later cars. I'm not looking for nearly that much.
Charlie Baldwin
'62 BT7 tricarb
York, PA
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 21:42:48 -0400
Subject: front steering question
On two cars here (BT7, BJ8 ) the front crossrod (when at full left lock (
lhd ) ) hits into the radiator X brace . both were severely dented. Is
there a way to prevent this from occuring ? aside from the obvious dont
shunt the front on curbs ! , they both still are a little too close to the
brace.
reguards Carroll
From "RL Chrysler" <lchrysl at fhs.csu.McMaster.CA>
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 22:47:52 -0400
Subject: Re: Diagnostic Quiz #3
My turn to give this one a try.
Someone installed the front brake backplates, cylinders, everything on the
wrong sides; left on right side and right on left side which makes front
brakes act as trailing on application. This thing probably stops great when
going backwards!
I saw this happen once before on a very butchered backyard bodged 100/6.
Rich Chrysler
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 21:02:08 EDT
Subject: Re: Which spin on filter?
In a message dated 09/05/2000 7:24:39 PM Central Daylight Time,
MBran89793@aol.com writes:
<< While you are at it what is the NAPA part number for the equivalent Wix
#51068?
>>
Marion:
Whilst NOT trying to be a smartass, try ASKING the NAPA guy???? Geeesh!!
Ed
PS: 'course that is ASSUMING you have a NAPA guy that knows his A*S from a
hole in the ground!!!????!!!!
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 23:27:44 EDT
Subject: Re: 3rd brake light
In a message dated 9/5/00 1:51:35 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
mbrouill@ix.netcom.com writes:
Mike,
I just wired it to the brake light terminal on the flasher relay. I'm not
sure how you would wire it to include directional signals. Although I
believe Len Hartnett (listed in the AHUSA Resource Book) did split a
different LED 3rd brake light to have the ends used as directional signals
and the center part as a 3rd brake light. I don't know how he did it, or if
it could be done on the Suburban light.
John
100-Six Erika the Red
<<
I've been meaning to send you a note since seeing the article. I too have
been staring at every car going by looking at their brake light bar and
thought the GM bar was the best one. When you looked at wiring it up, was
it just one continuos light or could you wire in the directionals also to
the light bar?
Mike Brouillette
59 BT7
Bedford, NH >>
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at slip.net>
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 20:34:41 -0700
Subject: Diagnostic Quiz #2 Results
Skip Saunders and Mike Salter got the correct answer (Mike got it immediately
with no
additional clues). All the other answers were insightful and could have
resulted in similar
symptoms.
Answer:
On the rear carb, the jet needle set screw had loosened enough to allow the
needle to fall
into the jet, plugging the fuel flow to the rear carb. The somewhat
intermittent nature of the
problem I attribute to the set screw sometimes being able to grab the needle
well enough
to lift it out of the jet. That I was able to limp the car home on 3 cylinders
is a testament
to the power of the Healey (Austin) engine. Course, I like it a lot better on
6!
Thanks to all who responded.
Regards,
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@slip.net (home)
San Jose, CA. bspidell@teknema.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 20:05:57 -0500
Subject: Re: Which spin on filter?
hi marion-
just ask napa--they can cross reference from the wix.
napa gold 1302 is the # for the original cannister filters. ive used them for
years.
keep it between the lines,
jerry
----- Original Message -----
From: MBran89793@aol.com
To: Healybj8@aol.com, tom.sue.gebhart@netzero.net, healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Which spin on filter?
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 20:21:14 EDT
In a message dated 9/5/00 9:07:51 AM Eastern Daylight Time, Healybj8 writes:
<< AC/Delco filters >>
OK, but what is the part number? You won't find a spin-on filter listed for
an Austin-Healey 100/100-6/3000.
While you are at it what is the NAPA part number for the equivalent Wix
#51068?
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 23:37:35 EDT
Subject: Re: 3rd brake light
In a message dated 9/5/00 6:42:53 AM Pacific Daylight Time, CAWS52803 writes:
Rudy,
Yes, it will clear if mounted about 1/4 inch from the trunk opening edge.
Place it on you shroud and lift the trunk lid all the way open before marking
to mount to be sure. I'll email you a copy of the article that shows how it
mounts.
John
100-Six Erika the Red
<<
Thanks for the info John,
I was wondering how you attached the 3rd light to the shroud. Since you
have a 100/6 as I do, I guess the truck lid clears the light when open. You
mentioned LED. Is there any special wiring that is necessary?
Rudy Streng in NC >>
From Philip Whitton <P.Whitton at uws.edu.au>
Date: Wed, 06 Sep 2000 14:56:13 +1000
Subject: Re: Diagnostic Quiz #2 Results
Geez, I thought that was obvious and that you had checked all the basic
fault finders and had exhausted all the bleeding obvious ones.
Still, it reminds me of a trip to a rally with the Sydney club. Having left
Sydney in convoy and travelling for several hours, and after a fuel/food
break we had been proceeding along when one members pristine BN4 decided to
stop.
OK so everybody stops: instant experts: diagnosis= fuel blockage.
With surgical precision and cleanliness the owner dismantles the carbys
COMPLETELY.
No obvious problems: reassembles the system but still no go.
All avenues exhausted till his wife quietly asks when he last filled up as
he forgot to at the lunch break.
Sounds familiar?.
Regards PJW
At 08:34 PM 5/09/00 -0700, you wrote:
>Skip Saunders and Mike Salter got the correct answer (Mike got it
>immediately with no
>additional clues). All the other answers were insightful and could have
>resulted in similar
>symptoms.
>
>Answer:
>
>On the rear carb, the jet needle set screw had loosened enough to allow
>the needle to fall
>into the jet, plugging the fuel flow to the rear carb. The somewhat
>intermittent nature of the
>problem I attribute to the set screw sometimes being able to grab the
>needle well enough
>to lift it out of the jet. That I was able to limp the car home on 3
>cylinders is a testament
>to the power of the Healey (Austin) engine. Course, I like it a lot
>better on 6!
>
>Thanks to all who responded.
>
>Regards,
>Bob
>***********************************************************************
>Bob Spidell bspidell@slip.net (home)
>San Jose, CA. bspidell@teknema.com (work)
>`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
>***********************************************************************
From Robert Dobrowski <rsdslp at juno.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 21:07:43 -0700
Subject: Re: Oil Filter Report URL (was: Which spin on filter?)
I am getting sick of people pushing this piece of crap off as a
legitimate comparison of filters.
The reason the site keeps moving and is only on poor quality web hosts is
because no decent site wants the liability.
You notice that all judgements are made based on appearance and hearsay
but none are based on filtration performance.
On Tue, 5 Sep 2000 09:38:56 -0700 "Brad Weldon" <bweldon@georgefox.edu>
writes:
>
> Well, it appears that Xoom.com wants to use framesets in their
> html... so
> the complete URL should be...
> http://members.xoom.com/_XMCM/minimopar/oilfilterstudy.html
>
> If that doesn't work, follow this path:
> - http://members.xoom.com/minimopar/index.html
> - click on "What's New" (top right corner)
> - click on "Oil Filter Study" in the 06/20/00 entry.
>
> Xoom's servers sure seem s l o w ...
>
> Brad
> 55 bn1
> webmaster AHCUSA
> http://www.healey.org/
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> > [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of
> JustBrits@aol.com
> > Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2000 08:52 AM
> > To: bweldon@georgefox.edu; MBran89793@aol.com;
> healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: Oil Filter Report URL (was: Which spin on filter?)
> >
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 09/05/2000 10:36:55 AM Central Daylight Time,
> > bweldon@georgefox.edu writes:
> >
> > << Regarding the Oil Filter Report:
> > Using Yahoo! and Google, I found the recently moved website at:
> > http://members.xoom.com/minimopar/oilfilterstudy.html >>
> > And this is what I got, guys:
> >
> > Could Not Connect
> >
> > --------------------------------------------------------------
> > ----------------
> > --
> > Description: Could not connect to the server "members.xoom.com".
> >
> > Ed
> >
>
________________________________________________________________
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
From "Rick Dawe" <crd at iserv.net>
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 00:18:06 -0400
Subject: Re: Oil Filter Report URL (was: Which spin on filter?)
dah...........................flush it Bob!
Rick
GR8BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert Dobrowski <rsdslp@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2000 12:07 AM
Subject: Re: Oil Filter Report URL (was: Which spin on filter?)
>
> I am getting sick of people pushing this piece of crap off as a
> legitimate comparison of filters.
> The reason the site keeps moving and is only on poor quality web hosts is
> because no decent site wants the liability.
> You notice that all judgements are made based on appearance and hearsay
> but none are based on filtration performance.
>
> On Tue, 5 Sep 2000 09:38:56 -0700 "Brad Weldon" <bweldon@georgefox.edu>
> writes:
> >
> > Well, it appears that Xoom.com wants to use framesets in their
> > html... so
> > the complete URL should be...
> > http://members.xoom.com/_XMCM/minimopar/oilfilterstudy.html
> >
> > If that doesn't work, follow this path:
> > - http://members.xoom.com/minimopar/index.html
> > - click on "What's New" (top right corner)
> > - click on "Oil Filter Study" in the 06/20/00 entry.
> >
> > Xoom's servers sure seem s l o w ...
> >
> > Brad
> > 55 bn1
> > webmaster AHCUSA
> > http://www.healey.org/
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> > > [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of
> > JustBrits@aol.com
> > > Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2000 08:52 AM
> > > To: bweldon@georgefox.edu; MBran89793@aol.com;
> > healeys@autox.team.net
> > > Subject: Re: Oil Filter Report URL (was: Which spin on filter?)
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > In a message dated 09/05/2000 10:36:55 AM Central Daylight Time,
> > > bweldon@georgefox.edu writes:
> > >
> > > << Regarding the Oil Filter Report:
> > > Using Yahoo! and Google, I found the recently moved website at:
> > > http://members.xoom.com/minimopar/oilfilterstudy.html >>
> > > And this is what I got, guys:
> > >
> > > Could Not Connect
> > >
> > > --------------------------------------------------------------
> > > ----------------
> > > --
> > > Description: Could not connect to the server "members.xoom.com".
> > >
> > > Ed
> > >
> >
>
> ________________________________________________________________
> http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
>
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 00:36:16 EDT
Subject: Re: BN7 Gear Box
In a message dated 9/5/00 6:33:27 PM, ewsinc@blazenet.net writes:
<< David Neale wrote:
> I am in the process of having my 4 speed, side shift, gear box
> reconditioned. Does any one know where I can get a replacement, or have my
> existing, CLUSTER or LAYGEAR replaced or reconditioned in Bay Area.
>
> Thanks
> DAVID NEALE
> BN7
> BJ8
* ******************
David , We have all of the cluster gears available as rebuilt.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>Br
itishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 00:38:52 EDT
Subject: Re: AH Thermostat
Yes we wrote that article for The austin Healey Marque magazine and have them
available.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>Br
itishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From "Eyvind Larssen" <seel at online.no>
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 12:54:59 +0200
Subject: Diagnose #3
Ok.... knowing the prewious owner of the car......the Front Left brake..was put
as Rear Right brake... backwards... the Front Right brake..was put on as Rear
Left brake..backwards.... etc.. etc...
Eyvind Larssen 60BT7
Btw..... STILL no luck finding out why MY car wount rev. over 3000 when
HOT...completely new/rebuilt ignition system..... and .,.... nope.. no washer
in the gas-tank.
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 06 Sep 2000 08:08:05 -0400
Subject: Diagnostic Quiz #3 Results
2 correct answers Rich Chrysler then Eyvind Larssen.
Took me about three days to finally figure it out. The car must have
been like that for years, probably from the time the king pins were last
done, and they were well worn.
What finally twigged me in was the fact that the brake bleed screws were
pointing down.
Rich's turn.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 08:28:43 EDT
Subject: Re: Diagnostic Quiz #2 Results
In a message dated 9/5/2000 22:59:51 Central Daylight Time,
P.Whitton@uws.edu.au writes:
<< All avenues exhausted till his wife quietly asks when he last filled up as
he forgot to at the lunch break. >>
I ran across some Healeys just south of Louisville about 2 years ago going to
Springthing. Final answer....out of gas.
Don
From "Eyvind Larssen" <seel at online.no>
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 14:52:11 +0200
Subject: quizz #5
> > Btw..... STILL no luck finding out why MY car wount rev. over 3000 when
>HOT...completely new/rebuilt ignition system..... and .,.... nope.. no washer
>in the gas-tank.
>
> You got it... but Rich Chrysler got it first...I guess it is his turn.
> I will have to give your no revs over 3000 some thought.
> Could you re send me details of what you have eliminated?
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
Since it not my turn.... I guess this would be #5.
Thing is.. when cold... it reaches 4000 rpms.. no prob.... when 160 F.. it
stalls at 3000 rpms..... when 190 F.. it stalls at 2000-2500 rpms.
The Ignition system is checked...New Coil.. new breakers.... new distributor
cap... new plugleads...plug caps... plugs...new condensator... vacum advance..
Tank-cap ventilated ok...the fuel line seems far enough away from the
exhaust.....
So I guess its time for a complete overhaul of the carburators now??
Eyvind Larssen 60BT7
From BGAHC at aol.com
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 08:49:59 EDT
Subject: Re: Diagnostic Quiz #2 Results
In a message dated 9/6/00 8:31:17 AM Eastern Daylight Time, Drtrite@aol.com
writes:
<< I ran across some Healeys just south of Louisville about 2 years ago going
to
Springthing. Final answer....out of gas. >>
I stopped also. Luckily his professional mechanic was there to change the
fuel pump. Plenty of parts and tools were flying about and the diagnosis was
made by a committee of hangers-on. Changed the fuel pump, kept fifteen people
waiting.
First rule of SU = When the pump starts clicking and the car stops running
all you need is a stick to measure the tank cause you are probably out of gas.
First rule of road trips = have one person help you and keep the rest away
because most of them don't have a clue and will only screw it up.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Visit my Healey Adventure site at www.jamesfwerner.com
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 06 Sep 2000 09:17:27 -0400
Subject: Re: quizz #5
Eyvind Larssen wrote:
> > > Btw..... STILL no luck finding out why MY car wount rev. over 3000 when
>HOT...completely new/rebuilt ignition system..... and .,.... nope.. no washer
>in the gas-tank.
> >
> > You got it... but Rich Chrysler got it first...I guess it is his turn.
> > I will have to give your no revs over 3000 some thought.
> > Could you re send me details of what you have eliminated?
> > --
> > Regards,
> >
> > Mike Salter
>
> Since it not my turn.... I guess this would be #5.
> Thing is.. when cold... it reaches 4000 rpms.. no prob.... when 160 F.. it
>stalls at 3000 rpms..... when 190 F.. it stalls at 2000-2500 rpms.
> The Ignition system is checked...New Coil.. new breakers.... new distributor
>cap... new plugleads...plug caps... plugs...new condensator... vacum advance..
> Tank-cap ventilated ok...the fuel line seems far enough away from the
>exhaust.....
> So I guess its time for a complete overhaul of the carburators now??
>
> Eyvind Larssen 60BT7
Eyvind,
Before you start overhauling the carbs you should check that they have the
correct needles and jets.
They should , I believe, be AJ needles and 0.090" jets.
The fact that it runs better cold could indicate that it is getting an over
rich mixture.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From "Eyvind Larssen" <seel at online.no>
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 16:18:37 +0200
Subject: SV: quizz #5
> Eyvind,
>
> Before you start overhauling the carbs you should check that they have the
>correct needles and jets.
> They should , I believe, be AJ needles and 0.090" jets.
> The fact that it runs better cold could indicate that it is getting an over
>rich mixture.
>
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
Mike, as I already bought the overhaul-set for my carbs. I guess the correct
needles & pins are in the set.
I sure hope so anyway. I will keep you informed abt. progress.
Eyvind Larssen 60BT7
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 06 Sep 2000 11:52:52 -0400
Subject: Re: Diagnostic Quiz #3 Results
>
> Mike, don't the bleed screws face down on the front brakes of a BN2.
> Ward Stebner
> 1956 BN2
> Saskatoon, SK
Actually Ward, you are absolutely correct. Now that I stretch the old memory
banks the fact that the bleeders faced up, as they normally do on most cars,
other that Healeys with brum brakes on the front, which caused part of the
confusion. It wasn't untill I looked at the diagram on page M/2 of the
workshop manual that I got suspicious.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From Joseph Elmer <Joelmer at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 06 Sep 2000 12:03:13 -0400
Subject: Re: quizz #5
Sure sounds like it's staving on the fuel side. Unlikely vapor lock or would
quit. Something is constricting with increasing temp or binding the linkage
maybe, although these
temps are not very high. Could it be leaking air around a gasket or bushing as
the block/ intake manifold heats up? Joe Elmer
Michael Salter wrote:
> Eyvind Larssen wrote:
>
> > > > Btw..... STILL no luck finding out why MY car wount rev. over 3000 when
>HOT...completely new/rebuilt ignition system..... and .,.... nope.. no washer
>in the gas-tank.
> > >
> > > You got it... but Rich Chrysler got it first...I guess it is his turn.
> > > I will have to give your no revs over 3000 some thought.
> > > Could you re send me details of what you have eliminated?
> > > --
> > > Regards,
> > >
> > > Mike Salter
> >
> > Since it not my turn.... I guess this would be #5.
> > Thing is.. when cold... it reaches 4000 rpms.. no prob.... when 160 F.. it
>stalls at 3000 rpms..... when 190 F.. it stalls at 2000-2500 rpms.
> > The Ignition system is checked...New Coil.. new breakers.... new
>distributor cap... new plugleads...plug caps... plugs...new condensator...
>vacum advance..
> > Tank-cap ventilated ok...the fuel line seems far enough away from the
>exhaust.....
> > So I guess its time for a complete overhaul of the carburators now??
> >
> > Eyvind Larssen 60BT7
>
> Eyvind,
>
> Before you start overhauling the carbs you should check that they have the
>correct needles and jets.
> They should , I believe, be AJ needles and 0.090" jets.
> The fact that it runs better cold could indicate that it is getting an over
>rich mixture.
>
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 12:19:57 EDT
Subject: Real Life Problem to Diagnose.
In a message dated 9/6/00 3:52:20 AM, seel@online.no writes:
<< Eyvind Larssen 60BT7
Btw..... STILL no luck finding out why MY car wount rev. over 3000 when
HOT...completely new/rebuilt ignition system..... and .,.... nope.. no washer
in the gas-tank. >>
OK -- Can we help this guy solve his problem? What's the best method of
diagnosis?
I'm pretty far away from being technical, but my thought is that the only
reason the electrical system would be acting as a rev limiter when the engine
is hot is an overheated coil, but that seems far-fetched. Seems more likely
to me that it is associated with the fuel system and my inclination would be
to look to see if both carbs are opening smoothly and freely when the engine
is hot.
I had a similar problem (not that "I had similar problems" are the right way
to approach problems in preference to a logical decision tree analysis) and
mine turned out to be the fluid in the carburetors. Someone had used a pink
fluid (probably ATF) which had crystallized and after the engine had been
running awhile, the crystals jammed the pistons, keeping the carbs from
opening all the way.
Cheers
Gary
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 12:24:10 EDT
Subject: Re: Diagnostic Quiz #2 Results
In a message dated 9/6/00 5:53:28 AM, BGAHC@aol.com writes:
<< First rule of road trips = have one person help you and keep the rest away
because most of them don't have a clue and will only screw it up.
Thanks, >>
Good point to remember, even though summer is winding down. Nothing I hate
more than to be one of the many standing around because someone has broken
down. Of course, there is an understood commandment that we never, ever,
leave a touring buddy beside the road, but there are lots of good reasons why
the whole tour shouldn't be delayed. If there is at least one or two other
cars there with tools, spares, a knowledgable mechanic, and some means of
communication (CB or cell phone), then the rest should get back on the road.
Minimizes the embarrassment of the unfortunate, as well.
Cheers
gary
From "Andy King" <healey-100 at hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 07:04:17 -1000
Subject: Re: Diagnose #3
Cam Timing off by one tooth
Andy Kng
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eyvind Larssen" <seel@online.no>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2000 12:54 AM
Subject: Diagnose #3
>
> Ok.... knowing the prewious owner of the car......the Front Left
brake..was put as Rear Right brake... backwards... the Front Right
brake..was put on as Rear Left brake..backwards.... etc.. etc...
>
> Eyvind Larssen 60BT7
> Btw..... STILL no luck finding out why MY car wount rev. over 3000 when
HOT...completely new/rebuilt ignition system..... and .,.... nope.. no
washer in the gas-tank.
>
>
From BGAHC at aol.com
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 14:47:47 EDT
Subject: Road Rules
Editorgary@aol.com writes:
<< Of course, there is an understood commandment that we never, ever,
leave a touring buddy beside the road, but there are lots of good reasons
why
the whole tour shouldn't be delayed >>
Well, said Gary. I am leading another 20+ car tour next week and since my PC
burned up I am rewriting my Road Rules today. Here is the expanded edition of
my Road Rules, appreciate any input from the list.
1. Start at a Gas station/food mart. Get there early and gas up.
2. We leave at the designated time. We don't wait for people who are
inconsiderate by being late. Actually on my last tour I kept everyone waiting
because one couple who are never late were. Turns out they did have car
trouble. It's a judgment call but starting on time solved the habitual late
arrivals problems.
3. CB radios start on channel 3 and always stay between 1 and 5. That way if
you signal to someone your new channel you can do it with one hand. I avoid
channel one for the obvious reasons.
4. Slow cars in front, fast cars to the back. The slower drivers are usually
less confident and want the support of a lot of people following them. Fast
cars to the back since I can feel confident leaving them at traffic lights,
etc., knowing they will catch up. If you feel the need to drive really fast
have another two cups of coffee and leave fifteen minutes behind us and see
if you can catch up.
5. Written directions with a map and the rules. Everyone gets a copy printed
on card stock so it is easy to handle in the wind. Written directions alone
won't work because if you go off course you have no idea were you are.
6. In case of another persons breakdown just safely pass them by. Wrecks
happen when everyone tries to stop. A limited number will stop and the group
will stop up the road somewhere safe, maintain CB contact and regroup as
required.
7. After each rest stop I call the time of the next stop. That way no one has
to raise their hands and be embarrassed to ask for a restroom stop. I just
say it's now 1 PM and we will be stopping at 2:30.
8. Pick fuel stops for the number of toilets not the number of gas pumps
because that is were you lose time.
9. Pick restaurants like Cracker Barrel and march in and tell them you have
30 people and you will take any seating combination they have. Every time you
try to get a table and service for a large group it wastes time. Split them
up or send them to different restaurants and give them a time to return by.
Just my . 02 worth.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Visit my Healey Adventure site at www.jamesfwerner.com
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 19:12:23 EDT
Subject: Re: Real Life Problem to Diagnose.
In a message dated 9/6/00 9:22:38, Editorgary@aol.com writes:
<< << Eyvind Larssen 60BT7
Btw..... STILL no luck finding out why MY car wount rev. over 3000 when
HOT...completely new/rebuilt ignition system..... and .,.... nope.. no washer
in the gas-tank. >>
OK -- Can we help this guy solve his problem? What's the best method of
diagnosis? >>
I just drive the heck out of my car, don't check it much, don't open the hood
very often.
Mine gradually got worse at revving while hot, got harder to start etc.
Seemed to be almost fine while cool or at night.
When my car started acting this way here's what I found. The cam follower on
the points had worn down against the distributor cam making the point gap get
too small.
I readjusted the points and she ran great.
'figured that it ran better while cool for the same reason most cars run
better while cool. The condition was just exaggerated by minimal spark.
Rick
San Diego
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at slip.net>
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 17:12:24 -0700
Subject: Re: Diagnostic Quiz #2 Results
Philip Whitton wrote (rather condescendingly):
> Geez, I thought that was obvious and that you had checked all the basic
> fault finders and had exhausted all the bleeding obvious ones.
Aren't all solutions obvious, once you've found them?
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@slip.net (home)
San Jose, CA. bspidell@teknema.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Philip Whitton" <P.Whitton@uws.edu.au>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2000 9:56 PM
Subject: Re: Diagnostic Quiz #2 Results
>
> Geez, I thought that was obvious and that you had checked all the basic
> fault finders and had exhausted all the bleeding obvious ones.
> Still, it reminds me of a trip to a rally with the Sydney club. Having left
> Sydney in convoy and travelling for several hours, and after a fuel/food
> break we had been proceeding along when one members pristine BN4 decided to
> stop.
> OK so everybody stops: instant experts: diagnosis= fuel blockage.
> With surgical precision and cleanliness the owner dismantles the carbys
> COMPLETELY.
> No obvious problems: reassembles the system but still no go.
> All avenues exhausted till his wife quietly asks when he last filled up as
> he forgot to at the lunch break.
>
> Sounds familiar?.
>
> Regards PJW
>
>
> At 08:34 PM 5/09/00 -0700, you wrote:
>
> >Skip Saunders and Mike Salter got the correct answer (Mike got it
> >immediately with no
> >additional clues). All the other answers were insightful and could have
> >resulted in similar
> >symptoms.
> >
> >Answer:
> >
> >On the rear carb, the jet needle set screw had loosened enough to allow
> >the needle to fall
> >into the jet, plugging the fuel flow to the rear carb. The somewhat
> >intermittent nature of the
> >problem I attribute to the set screw sometimes being able to grab the
> >needle well enough
> >to lift it out of the jet. That I was able to limp the car home on 3
> >cylinders is a testament
> >to the power of the Healey (Austin) engine. Course, I like it a lot
> >better on 6!
> >
> >Thanks to all who responded.
> >
> >Regards,
> >Bob
> >***********************************************************************
> >Bob Spidell bspidell@slip.net (home)
> >San Jose, CA. bspidell@teknema.com (work)
> >`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
> >***********************************************************************
>
>
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at slip.net>
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 17:17:33 -0700
Subject: Re: quizz #5
Something plugging a fuel line somewhere (have heard of flex lines collapsing
internally, with
no external evidence). Wouldn't rule out a vapor lock, either. Any dents in
the metal line?
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@slip.net (home)
San Jose, CA. bspidell@teknema.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eyvind Larssen" <seel@online.no>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Michael Salter" <magicare@home.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2000 5:52 AM
Subject: quizz #5
>
>
> > > Btw..... STILL no luck finding out why MY car wount rev. over 3000 when
>HOT...completely
new/rebuilt ignition system..... and .,.... nope.. no washer in the gas-tank.
> >
> > You got it... but Rich Chrysler got it first...I guess it is his turn.
> > I will have to give your no revs over 3000 some thought.
> > Could you re send me details of what you have eliminated?
> > --
> > Regards,
> >
> > Mike Salter
>
> Since it not my turn.... I guess this would be #5.
> Thing is.. when cold... it reaches 4000 rpms.. no prob.... when 160 F.. it
>stalls at 3000
rpms..... when 190 F.. it stalls at 2000-2500 rpms.
> The Ignition system is checked...New Coil.. new breakers.... new distributor
>cap... new
plugleads...plug caps... plugs...new condensator... vacum advance..
> Tank-cap ventilated ok...the fuel line seems far enough away from the
>exhaust.....
> So I guess its time for a complete overhaul of the carburators now??
>
> Eyvind Larssen 60BT7
>
>
From David <helelist at swbell.net>
Date: Wed, 06 Sep 2000 13:56:16 -0500
Subject: AC Oil Filter
AC-Delco Duraguard Oil Filter PF56 works with adapter I bought from
Moss.
Dave Plotky
66 BJ8
From "Donald L. Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 20:21:50 -0500
Subject: Jim Werner's webpage
Hey Gang:
If you haven't done so already, visit Jim's new webpage. He has created a
masterpiece.
Don
BN7
From "S.HUTCHINGS" <hutching at myna.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 22:17:13 -0400
Subject: Re; Jim Werner's webpage
So Don, what's the web address?
Stephen, BJ8
From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 22:27:06 EDT
Subject: Re: Re; Jim Werner's webpage
Jim was nice enough to include it in his excellant posting regarding touring
rules.
I have pasted it in below for you:
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Visit my Healey Adventure site at www.jamesfwerner.com
John
Oostburg, WI
'60 BT7
'60 Mini
'80 TR7 (freshly repainted Carmine red!)
'69 AA
'57 Isetta
Etc.
From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 22:33:01 EDT
Subject: Re: Jensen workers mark on shrouds?
No one responded on this topic when I posted about it before! Regardless, I
now have very nice photos of these stamps if any of you secretly curios
people want to see the marks!
let me know, I'll send ya a jpeg.
John
Oostburg, WI
'60 BT7
'60 Mini
'80 TR7 (freshly repainted Carmine red!)
'69 AA
'57 Isetta
Etc.
From "Donald L. Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 22:02:08 -0500
Subject: Jim's Excellent Austin Healey webpage
Sorry. I forgot to put the address of Jim's webpage. It is below:
http://hometown.aol.com/bgahc/jimwerner.html
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 00:46:56 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Road Rules
Hi Jim
These are a terrific set of rules with the exception of your #4.
In my "vast"<G> experience, a fifteen minute head-start Absolutely Guarantees
that you will never see the Fast Guys agin and vice versa. A fifteen minute
head-start on a highway is 15-20 MILES and Juan Fangio in a genuine Cobra 427
would have to travel at over 100 mph and even at that speed would take close to
an hour to catch up. (do the math) For more typical Fast Guys you are talking
about a Couple of Hours.
A better plan would be to let the Fast Guys start FIRST and then after they
had their "jollies" they can park on the shoulder and wait for the "peleton"
To do otherwise defeats the whole purpose of caravaning - i.e. to take care of
breakdowns. The Fast Guys can have breakdowns as well, can't they?
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
> Editorgary@aol.com writes:
>
> << Of course, there is an understood commandment that we never, ever,
> leave a touring buddy beside the road, but there are lots of good reasons
> why
> the whole tour shouldn't be delayed >>
>
> Well, said Gary. I am leading another 20+ car tour next week and since my PC
> burned up I am rewriting my Road Rules today. Here is the expanded edition of
> my Road Rules, appreciate any input from the list.
>
> 1. Start at a Gas station/food mart. Get there early and gas up.
> 2. We leave at the designated time. We don't wait for people who are
> inconsiderate by being late. Actually on my last tour I kept everyone waiting
> because one couple who are never late were. Turns out they did have car
> trouble. It's a judgment call but starting on time solved the habitual late
> arrivals problems.
> 3. CB radios start on channel 3 and always stay between 1 and 5. That way if
> you signal to someone your new channel you can do it with one hand. I avoid
> channel one for the obvious reasons.
> 4. Slow cars in front, fast cars to the back. The slower drivers are usually
> less confident and want the support of a lot of people following them. Fast
> cars to the back since I can feel confident leaving them at traffic lights,
> etc., knowing they will catch up. If you feel the need to drive really fast
> have another two cups of coffee and leave fifteen minutes behind us and see
> if you can catch up.
> 5. Written directions with a map and the rules. Everyone gets a copy printed
> on card stock so it is easy to handle in the wind. Written directions alone
> won't work because if you go off course you have no idea were you are.
> 6. In case of another persons breakdown just safely pass them by. Wrecks
> happen when everyone tries to stop. A limited number will stop and the group
> will stop up the road somewhere safe, maintain CB contact and regroup as
> required.
> 7. After each rest stop I call the time of the next stop. That way no one has
> to raise their hands and be embarrassed to ask for a restroom stop. I just
> say it's now 1 PM and we will be stopping at 2:30.
> 8. Pick fuel stops for the number of toilets not the number of gas pumps
> because that is were you lose time.
> 9. Pick restaurants like Cracker Barrel and march in and tell them you have
> 30 people and you will take any seating combination they have. Every time you
> try to get a table and service for a large group it wastes time. Split them
> up or send them to different restaurants and give them a time to return by.
>
> Just my . 02 worth.
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Werner
> Louisville, KY
> Visit my Healey Adventure site at www.jamesfwerner.com
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From "Andy King" <healey-100 at hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 19:47:16 -1000
Subject: Re: Real Life Problem to Diagnose.
Gary I'll bet you are right the problem will be on the fuel side of the
system. The only thing I can think of on electrical side is if the point
gap is way out and there is very little dwell the ignition coil would not
have time to build up sufficient voltage in the field winding to deliver a
good spark at high RPM. It would be interesting to see if a smaller gap at
the plugs would allow for more RPMs it would be a clue to a bad coil or
poor dwell causing a weak spark problem at high RPMs.
My guess would be fuel related thou.
Andy King
---- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <seel@online.no>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2000 6:19 AM
Subject: Real Life Problem to Diagnose.
>
>
> In a message dated 9/6/00 3:52:20 AM, seel@online.no writes:
>
> << Eyvind Larssen 60BT7
> Btw..... STILL no luck finding out why MY car wount rev. over 3000 when
> HOT...completely new/rebuilt ignition system..... and .,.... nope.. no
washer
> in the gas-tank. >>
>
> OK -- Can we help this guy solve his problem? What's the best method of
> diagnosis?
> I'm pretty far away from being technical, but my thought is that the only
> reason the electrical system would be acting as a rev limiter when the
engine
> is hot is an overheated coil, but that seems far-fetched. Seems more
likely
> to me that it is associated with the fuel system and my inclination would
be
> to look to see if both carbs are opening smoothly and freely when the
engine
> is hot.
>
> I had a similar problem (not that "I had similar problems" are the right
way
> to approach problems in preference to a logical decision tree analysis)
and
> mine turned out to be the fluid in the carburetors. Someone had used a
pink
> fluid (probably ATF) which had crystallized and after the engine had been
> running awhile, the crystals jammed the pistons, keeping the carbs from
> opening all the way.
>
> Cheers
> Gary
From TRICARB at aol.com
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 02:20:05 EDT
Subject: Re: BN7 gearbox
Hi Paul,
I have rebuilt ones in stock for all of the big Healeys.
Cheers, Bill Bolton, Bolt-On Healeys
From gdrhodes at attglobal.net
Date: Thu, 07 Sep 2000 09:51:43 -0400
Subject: OEM Tire Search for BJ8
I'm still looking for original type whitewall tires (Dunlop Roadspeed
RS5 5.90x15 with 3/4" whitewall) for my 67 BJ8.....for show/originality
as it was shipped, not for regular driving. Latest search venue was Lime
Rock Vintage Festial this past weekend. Given the rarity of these tires,
I'm now willing to try and collect/assemble a set one at a time. I know
that sometimes these tires were used as spares (even with the ww turned
inside) and that may have allowed a few to survive. If anyone knows
where I might find one or more, I'll appreciate any leads. I have
gotten suggestions for the alternative of shaving and painting the ww on
an appropriate blackwall Dunlop, to approximate the original, but I'd
really like to find the real thing. Thanks.
Gayle Rhodes (1967 BJ8, very original, but a little more to go)
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 09:52:26 EDT
Subject: Tech session
Just a reminder that this Saturday is our regular tech session at Dick
Solomon's. Be there to get your share of coffee and donuts!
If you have some pictures of your car please bring them. Tim and I will scan
them and post them on the club web site.
Don Lenschow
From BGAHC at aol.com
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 10:00:01 EDT
Subject: Re: Road Rules
Dick,
These are Road Rules and number four is deliberate. It's my way of saying
screw 'em. you always have someone who has to drive faster than the rest and
pressure those who are not comfortable at that speed. I can drive fast but at
the end of the day I would rather say I supported my friends instead of
arriving at the destination six minutes ahead of everyone.
You are correct, the fifteen minute late start is a no win situation and it's
meant to be that way.
Jim
dickb@cheerful.com writes:
<< A fifteen minute head-start on a highway is 15-20 MILES and Juan Fangio
in a genuine Cobra 427 would have to travel at over 100 mph and even at that
speed would take close to an hour to catch up. (do the math) For more
typical Fast Guys you are talking about a Couple of Hours >>
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Visit my Healey Adventure site at www.jamesfwerner.com
From Ed Santoro <esantoro at drbc.state.nj.us>
Date: Thu, 07 Sep 2000 10:20:07 -0700
Subject: Re: Jim's Excellent Austin Healey webpage
Don: You were not kidding !!!! Jim Werners website is Great !!! I
would love to get jim's email address to chat with him. I am thinking
of setting up a "works car" and would love to discuss it with him or
anyone on the list who can give me some pointers. Thanks, EDS
"Donald L. Yarber" wrote:
> Sorry. I forgot to put the address of Jim's webpage. It is below:
>
> http://hometown.aol.com/bgahc/jimwerner.html
--
Edward D. Santoro, M.S.
Monitoring Coordinator
Delaware River Basin Commission
25 State Police Drive
West Trenton, NJ
08628
Tel:609 883-9500 ext 268
Fax:609 883-9522
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 11:56:14 EDT
Subject: Re: Road Rules
In a message dated 9/6/00 9:51:12 PM, dickb@cheerful.com writes:
<< A better plan would be to let the Fast Guys start FIRST and then after
they had their "jollies" they can park on the shoulder and wait for the
"peleton" >>
What the heck is a "Peleton?"
Regardless of the word, that's the way we do it, and it usually works out.
We specify where the next rest stop or gas stop will be and the fast guys
wait there.
However, on our recent trip up to Ocean Shores, I was driving with the fast
group, led by Jim Albeck, and twice we had problems. First time, we stopped
at the first real gas station in the town specified, got gassed up, and stood
around, then watched the main phalanx (better word) cruise by. On the CBs,
they told us they didn't like the brand we had picked and they would drive on
to search out their favorite brand. Needless to tell, one person ran out of
gas before they found the right brand. Then, with us fasties out ahead
again, we pulled in to the specified restaurant and after fifteen minutes
decided we would just order. Needless to say, eventually one of the other
group came in to tell us that after they had taken care of the gas problem,
they changed their mind on the restaurant they wanted. So we finished eating,
got back on the road, and arrived in to the final destination a good hour
ahead of them.
So, moral of this tale is, If you really want to "caravan" -- one of the joys
of vintage touring -- define your route and rules ahead of time, and don't
change them on the fly.
Cheers
Gary
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 12:06:02 EDT
Subject: Re: OEM Tire Search for BJ8
In a message dated 9/7/00 6:55:47 AM, gdrhodes@attglobal.net writes:
<< I'm still looking for original type whitewall tires (Dunlop Roadspeed
RS5 5.90x15 with 3/4" whitewall) for my 67 BJ8.....for show/originality
as it was shipped, not for regular driving. Latest search venue was Lime
Rock Vintage Festial this past weekend. Given the rarity of these tires,
I'm now willing to try and collect/assemble a set one at a time. >>
Unless you intend to only mount the tires for the short drive from the prep
and trailer field onto the show field, and don't intend to ever drive them in
traffic, every tire expert I've talked to recommends against using old tires
-- even NOS. Over the years, they will have hardened and at best won't grip
on the road, and at worst, could fail precipitously. Ka-bam!
Best bet, as has been suggested, is to buy a set of reproduction Dunlop
Roadspeed RS5s and have the narrow whitewall put on them. These tires are
made with modern materials and are speed-rated to over 100 mph.
Cheers
Gary
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 13:02:41 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Road Rules
Gary
I didn't mean to get too esoteric. Peleton is the main body of riders in the
Tour de France (or any other bicycle road race) which is behind the breakaway
riders - i.e. "the Pack". I think phalanx actually means the entire group, ,
or an attack force - everyone else is support or "stragglers"
Your tale decribes to me a typical pig-headed attitude by your fellow
caravaners. They won't follow the established rules; think they know better
than the more experienced drivers;are unable to supress their "independence" to
the group objective, etc
BTW, it's about a month since I posted my Firestone Alert and at the time you
said that you had Wilderness tires on you leased Explorer and had been given
the run-around by your dealer, tire-dealer and leasing company. I hope by now
you have had them replaced one way or another and are driving in safety.
Frankly I wish the same for those who ran their mouths at me about there being
no problem and it all being a Communist Plot or an attempt by me to manufacture
a class-action lawsuit. I would hate to think of any LBC-owners who are still
pressing their luck by driving on Firestones.
If there is any doubt in anyone's mind that Firestone and Ford have filthy
hands in this whole affair - and have had them for many, many years - they
don't believe what they read in the newspapers or what they can see on TV. The
hearings that are now going on are disgusting in my opinion and I really doubt
that Firestone will be seen or heard of a year from now. I only hope the CEO
of Bridgestone doesn't commit hari-kiri when he gets home to Japan.
Regards,
Dick
---- you wrote:
>
> In a message dated 9/6/00 9:51:12 PM, dickb@cheerful.com writes:
>
> << A better plan would be to let the Fast Guys start FIRST and then after
> they had their "jollies" they can park on the shoulder and wait for the
> "peleton" >>
>
> What the heck is a "Peleton?"
>
> Regardless of the word, that's the way we do it, and it usually works out.
> We specify where the next rest stop or gas stop will be and the fast guys
> wait there.
>
> However, on our recent trip up to Ocean Shores, I was driving with the fast
> group, led by Jim Albeck, and twice we had problems. First time, we stopped
> at the first real gas station in the town specified, got gassed up, and stood
> around, then watched the main phalanx (better word) cruise by. On the CBs,
> they told us they didn't like the brand we had picked and they would drive on
> to search out their favorite brand. Needless to tell, one person ran out of
> gas before they found the right brand. Then, with us fasties out ahead
> again, we pulled in to the specified restaurant and after fifteen minutes
> decided we would just order. Needless to say, eventually one of the other
> group came in to tell us that after they had taken care of the gas problem,
> they changed their mind on the restaurant they wanted. So we finished eating,
> got back on the road, and arrived in to the final destination a good hour
> ahead of them.
>
> So, moral of this tale is, If you really want to "caravan" -- one of the joys
> of vintage touring -- define your route and rules ahead of time, and don't
> change them on the fly.
>
> Cheers
> Gary
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 13:23:35 EDT
Subject: about Firestone/or any tire issue (real question)
In a message dated 9/7/00 10:05:47, dickb@cheerful.com writes:
<< If there is any doubt in anyone's mind that Firestone and Ford have filthy
hands in this whole affair - and have had them for many, many years - they
don't believe what they read in the newspapers or what they can see on TV.
The hearings that are now going on are disgusting in my opinion and I really
doubt that Firestone will be seen or heard of a year from now. I only hope
the CEO of Bridgestone doesn't commit hari-kiri when he gets home to Japan.
Regards,
Dick >>
I've never been a fan of Firestone tires and have been following, when I can,
some of the hearings. I saw some questioners asking a lot of question in a
not very scientific or accurate way, making the legal talk of the firestone
people look pretty bad about failure rates and complaints. I've not yet heard
anyone ask, or even cite what the industry average failure rate is, almost as
if Firestone is the only tire that fails.
Yes, the positive correlation between the replacement workers and the double
rate of failure from the Decatur plant is disturbing. That is a problem that
appears directly related, and the possibility of some coinciding event
(different chemical batches, etc.) seems implausible.
Have you (anyone) heard any industry data on quality issues or
accidents/deaths caused by tires? I find it hard to believe that
Firestone/Bridgestone is the tire company that has tire failures.
Rick
San Diego
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 11:43:15 -0600
Subject: Re: Road Rules
....some even complain about driving their cars ?? !!!
----- Original Message -----
From: <dickb@cheerful.com>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>
Cc: "austin healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2000 11:02 AM
Subject: Re: Road Rules
>
> Gary
>
> I didn't mean to get too esoteric. Peleton is the main body of riders in
the Tour de France (or any other bicycle road race) which is behind the
breakaway riders - i.e. "the Pack". I think phalanx actually means the
entire group, , or an attack force - everyone else is support or
"stragglers"
>
> Your tale decribes to me a typical pig-headed attitude by your fellow
caravaners. They won't follow the established rules; think they know better
than the more experienced drivers;are unable to supress their "independence"
to the group objective, etc
>
> BTW, it's about a month since I posted my Firestone Alert and at the time
you said that you had Wilderness tires on you leased Explorer and had been
given the run-around by your dealer, tire-dealer and leasing company. I
hope by now you have had them replaced one way or another and are driving in
safety.
>
> Frankly I wish the same for those who ran their mouths at me about there
being no problem and it all being a Communist Plot or an attempt by me to
manufacture a class-action lawsuit. I would hate to think of any LBC-owners
who are still pressing their luck by driving on Firestones.
>
> If there is any doubt in anyone's mind that Firestone and Ford have filthy
hands in this whole affair - and have had them for many, many years - they
don't believe what they read in the newspapers or what they can see on TV.
The hearings that are now going on are disgusting in my opinion and I really
doubt that Firestone will be seen or heard of a year from now. I only hope
the CEO of Bridgestone doesn't commit hari-kiri when he gets home to Japan.
>
> Regards,
>
> Dick
>
> ---- you wrote:
> >
> > In a message dated 9/6/00 9:51:12 PM, dickb@cheerful.com writes:
> >
> > << A better plan would be to let the Fast Guys start FIRST and then
after
> > they had their "jollies" they can park on the shoulder and wait for the
> > "peleton" >>
> >
> > What the heck is a "Peleton?"
> >
> > Regardless of the word, that's the way we do it, and it usually works
out.
> > We specify where the next rest stop or gas stop will be and the fast
guys
> > wait there.
> >
> > However, on our recent trip up to Ocean Shores, I was driving with the
fast
> > group, led by Jim Albeck, and twice we had problems. First time, we
stopped
> > at the first real gas station in the town specified, got gassed up, and
stood
> > around, then watched the main phalanx (better word) cruise by. On the
CBs,
> > they told us they didn't like the brand we had picked and they would
drive on
> > to search out their favorite brand. Needless to tell, one person ran
out of
> > gas before they found the right brand. Then, with us fasties out ahead
> > again, we pulled in to the specified restaurant and after fifteen
minutes
> > decided we would just order. Needless to say, eventually one of the
other
> > group came in to tell us that after they had taken care of the gas
problem,
> > they changed their mind on the restaurant they wanted. So we finished
eating,
> > got back on the road, and arrived in to the final destination a good
hour
> > ahead of them.
> >
> > So, moral of this tale is, If you really want to "caravan" -- one of the
joys
> > of vintage touring -- define your route and rules ahead of time, and
don't
> > change them on the fly.
> >
> > Cheers
> > Gary
> >
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
>
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Thu, 07 Sep 2000 10:46:51 -0700
Subject: Re: Road Rules
My experience may be limited but based on it, I would vote for Jim's
15 minute rule. Where would the faster drivers rather wait for the
others? Waiting before leaving for the next leg makes it much more
likely that all cars will end up at the same place at the same time
(see Gary's letter for examples of what happens when the fast crowd
wait at the "next" stop). Maybe if the fast crowd has other plans
there should be two groups and they just get together at the end of
the day. Unmet expectations are the source of frustration.
Two years ago Loreen and I drove a non-LBC as the 'sag wagon' at the
end of a train of Healeys, some driven and a few on trailers, from San
Diego to Oregon. Herding Healeys at 55 mph isn't very exciting but it
has its compensations. There is time to experience the scenery. The
group traveled at the rate of the slowest vehicle.
This summer Loreen and I drove our BJ7 2600 miles from San Diego to
Ocean Shores and back, some times with just one other Healey, and some
times with more than ten. The fast crowd, when there was one, left
when they chose to, which was usually first. This worked out OK,
except when the whole group got over about ten cars. But I think
there was less stress on all concerned in the arrangement where all
traveled together. Traveling as a group isn't for everyone, or every
time, but when in a group there need to be rules (call them guidelines
if 'rules' gets your back up) that everyone knows and tries to follow,
mostly.
-Roland
On Thu, 7 Sep 2000 10:00:01 EDT, Jim wrote:
:: Dick,
::
:: These are Road Rules and number four is deliberate. It's my way of saying
:: screw 'em. you always have someone who has to drive faster than the rest and
:: pressure those who are not comfortable at that speed. I can drive fast but
:at
:: the end of the day I would rather say I supported my friends instead of
:: arriving at the destination six minutes ahead of everyone.
::
:: You are correct, the fifteen minute late start is a no win situation and
:it's
:: meant to be that way.
:: Jim
::
From BGAHC at aol.com
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 14:01:07 EDT
Subject: Re: Road Rules/Firestone Tires
dickb@cheerful.com writes:
<< Frankly I wish the same for those who ran their mouths at me about there
being no problem and it all being a Communist Plot or an attempt by me to
manufacture a class-action lawsuit >>
Imagine how we would all feel if we had found this out about a Dunlop SP20 or
Michelin XZX.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Visit my Healey Adventure site at www.jamesfwerner.com
From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 11:22:06 -0700
Subject: RE: OEM Tire Search for BJ8
Have you tried Coker tire? 800-251-6336.
Jonathan Lane
Retail Sales
Moss Motors, Ltd.
(800) 235-6954 x3240
(805) 692-2525 - Fax
lanej@mossmotors.com
-----Original Message-----
From: gdrhodes@attglobal.net [mailto:gdrhodes@attglobal.net]
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2000 6:52 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: OEM Tire Search for BJ8
I'm still looking for original type whitewall tires (Dunlop Roadspeed
RS5 5.90x15 with 3/4" whitewall) for my 67 BJ8.....for show/originality
as it was shipped, not for regular driving. Latest search venue was Lime
Rock Vintage Festial this past weekend. Given the rarity of these tires,
I'm now willing to try and collect/assemble a set one at a time. I know
that sometimes these tires were used as spares (even with the ww turned
inside) and that may have allowed a few to survive. If anyone knows
where I might find one or more, I'll appreciate any leads. I have
gotten suggestions for the alternative of shaving and painting the ww on
an appropriate blackwall Dunlop, to approximate the original, but I'd
really like to find the real thing. Thanks.
Gayle Rhodes (1967 BJ8, very original, but a little more to go)
From "RANDALL NEVIS" <randallt at uswest.net>
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 11:51:38 -0700
Subject: Diagnose #4
Have enjoyed the diagnoses, here is one for you all, But Dave knows the
answer, so Dave let the rest think about it.
Have a 1960 Frogeye, got it last year. The other owners had the engine
rebuilt about five years ago. Didn't drive it much because of an over
heating problem, no one could figure it out, so I got a real great deal on
this car. So I went to work on trying to figure out why it over heats.
Checked the thermostat, water pump, cap, visual on hoses, timming etc.
Nothing...So anyone out ther figure out what it turned out to be?
Randall
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Thu, 07 Sep 2000 11:48:27 -0700
Subject: Re: Road Rules
Sure hope Goodyear/Michelin jumps back in so I can keep watching F-1 and
CART racing. Hate to see them try to navigate around Spa or Laguna Seca on
just the rims<g>
bk
------------------------
At 10:02 AM 9/7/00 , you wrote:
>Gary
>
>I didn't mean to get too esoteric. Peleton is the main body of riders in
>the Tour de France (or any other bicycle road race) which is behind the
>breakaway riders - i.e. "the Pack". I think phalanx actually means the
>entire group, , or an attack force - everyone else is support or "stragglers"
>
>Your tale decribes to me a typical pig-headed attitude by your fellow
>caravaners. They won't follow the established rules; think they know
>better than the more experienced drivers;are unable to supress their
>"independence" to the group objective, etc
>
>BTW, it's about a month since I posted my Firestone Alert and at the time
>you said that you had Wilderness tires on you leased Explorer and had been
>given the run-around by your dealer, tire-dealer and leasing company. I
>hope by now you have had them replaced one way or another and are driving
>in safety.
>
>Frankly I wish the same for those who ran their mouths at me about there
>being no problem and it all being a Communist Plot or an attempt by me to
>manufacture a class-action lawsuit. I would hate to think of any
>LBC-owners who are still pressing their luck by driving on Firestones.
>
>If there is any doubt in anyone's mind that Firestone and Ford have filthy
>hands in this whole affair - and have had them for many, many years - they
>don't believe what they read in the newspapers or what they can see on
>TV. The hearings that are now going on are disgusting in my opinion and I
>really doubt that Firestone will be seen or heard of a year from now. I
>only hope the CEO of Bridgestone doesn't commit hari-kiri when he gets
>home to Japan.
>
>Regards,
>
>Dick
>
> ---- you wrote:
> >
> > In a message dated 9/6/00 9:51:12 PM, dickb@cheerful.com writes:
> >
> > << A better plan would be to let the Fast Guys start FIRST and then after
> > they had their "jollies" they can park on the shoulder and wait for the
> > "peleton" >>
> >
> > What the heck is a "Peleton?"
> >
> > Regardless of the word, that's the way we do it, and it usually works
> out.
> > We specify where the next rest stop or gas stop will be and the fast guys
> > wait there.
> >
> > However, on our recent trip up to Ocean Shores, I was driving with the
> fast
> > group, led by Jim Albeck, and twice we had problems. First time, we
> stopped
> > at the first real gas station in the town specified, got gassed up, and
> stood
> > around, then watched the main phalanx (better word) cruise by. On the CBs,
> > they told us they didn't like the brand we had picked and they would
> drive on
> > to search out their favorite brand. Needless to tell, one person ran
> out of
> > gas before they found the right brand. Then, with us fasties out ahead
> > again, we pulled in to the specified restaurant and after fifteen minutes
> > decided we would just order. Needless to say, eventually one of the other
> > group came in to tell us that after they had taken care of the gas
> problem,
> > they changed their mind on the restaurant they wanted. So we finished
> eating,
> > got back on the road, and arrived in to the final destination a good hour
> > ahead of them.
> >
> > So, moral of this tale is, If you really want to "caravan" -- one of
> the joys
> > of vintage touring -- define your route and rules ahead of time, and don't
> > change them on the fly.
> >
> > Cheers
> > Gary
> >
>
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------
From Alan F Cross <AlanX at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 19:56:45 +0100
Subject: Firestone tyres - is it bad or is it paranoia?
Some say Firestone are all bad by definition. Some say it's just a US
problem and we in Europe have nothing to worry about.
The supplier of my recently acquired F560s (five off) says I have
nothing to worry about, but I'm tempted to get that in writing and lodge
it with my will!
The worry is the frequent mention of 15-inch tyres having the problem.
Are you guys running tyres on your Healeys that have been specifically
mentioned as having problems, or are your concerns based your tyres
being Firestone period?
Anyone heard of anything to incriminate or vindicate the F560? I really
would like to live long enough to be a problem to my kids, and perhaps
have them inherit a straight Healey.
Alan F Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK
H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny"
From "Eyvind Larssen" <seel at online.no>
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 21:23:26 +0200
Subject: SV: Firestone tyres - is it bad or is it paranoia?
> Some say Firestone are all bad by definition. Some say it's just a US
> problem and we in Europe have nothing to worry about.
>
> Alan F Cross
> Wokingham, Berkshire, UK
> H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny"
Alan,
same thing happened right now here in Norway. Firestone called back the same
tires here, so I guess its an universal problem.
Eyvind Larssen 60BT7
From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 12:23:58 -0700
Subject: RE: Road Rules
Actually a Phalanx was a sort of "wall of shields" held by peasants. It was
used by Greek warriors to protect a huge pack of archers behind them.
By the way, since the Firestone question seems to have popped up again, can
we keep it civil this time??
Jonathan Lane
Retail Sales
Moss Motors, Ltd.
(800) 235-6954 x3240
(805) 692-2525 - Fax
lanej@mossmotors.com
-----Original Message-----
From: dickb@cheerful.com [mailto:dickb@cheerful.com]
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2000 10:03 AM
To: Editorgary@aol.com
Cc: austin healey list
Subject: Re: Road Rules
Gary
I didn't mean to get too esoteric. Peleton is the main body of riders in
the Tour de France (or any other bicycle road race) which is behind the
breakaway riders - i.e. "the Pack". I think phalanx actually means the
entire group, , or an attack force - everyone else is support or
"stragglers"
Your tale decribes to me a typical pig-headed attitude by your fellow
caravaners. They won't follow the established rules; think they know better
than the more experienced drivers;are unable to supress their "independence"
to the group objective, etc
BTW, it's about a month since I posted my Firestone Alert and at the time
you said that you had Wilderness tires on you leased Explorer and had been
given the run-around by your dealer, tire-dealer and leasing company. I
hope by now you have had them replaced one way or another and are driving in
safety.
Frankly I wish the same for those who ran their mouths at me about there
being no problem and it all being a Communist Plot or an attempt by me to
manufacture a class-action lawsuit. I would hate to think of any LBC-owners
who are still pressing their luck by driving on Firestones.
If there is any doubt in anyone's mind that Firestone and Ford have filthy
hands in this whole affair - and have had them for many, many years - they
don't believe what they read in the newspapers or what they can see on TV.
The hearings that are now going on are disgusting in my opinion and I really
doubt that Firestone will be seen or heard of a year from now. I only hope
the CEO of Bridgestone doesn't commit hari-kiri when he gets home to Japan.
Regards,
Dick
---- you wrote:
>
> In a message dated 9/6/00 9:51:12 PM, dickb@cheerful.com writes:
>
> << A better plan would be to let the Fast Guys start FIRST and then after
> they had their "jollies" they can park on the shoulder and wait for the
> "peleton" >>
>
> What the heck is a "Peleton?"
>
> Regardless of the word, that's the way we do it, and it usually works out.
> We specify where the next rest stop or gas stop will be and the fast guys
> wait there.
>
> However, on our recent trip up to Ocean Shores, I was driving with the
fast
> group, led by Jim Albeck, and twice we had problems. First time, we
stopped
> at the first real gas station in the town specified, got gassed up, and
stood
> around, then watched the main phalanx (better word) cruise by. On the CBs,
> they told us they didn't like the brand we had picked and they would drive
on
> to search out their favorite brand. Needless to tell, one person ran out
of
> gas before they found the right brand. Then, with us fasties out ahead
> again, we pulled in to the specified restaurant and after fifteen minutes
> decided we would just order. Needless to say, eventually one of the other
> group came in to tell us that after they had taken care of the gas
problem,
> they changed their mind on the restaurant they wanted. So we finished
eating,
> got back on the road, and arrived in to the final destination a good hour
> ahead of them.
>
> So, moral of this tale is, If you really want to "caravan" -- one of the
joys
> of vintage touring -- define your route and rules ahead of time, and don't
> change them on the fly.
>
> Cheers
> Gary
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 16:06:45 EDT
Subject: Re: Road Rules
In a message dated 9/7/00 10:05:20 AM, dickb@cheerful.com writes:
<< I didn't mean to get too esoteric. Peleton is the main body of riders in
the Tour de France (or any other bicycle road race) which is behind the
breakaway riders - i.e. "the Pack". I think phalanx actually means the
entire group, , or an attack force - everyone else is support or "stragglers"
>>
thanks -- a brand new word -- I have to replace the one that I have -- any
decent dictionary should have had that one.
Cheers
Gary
From "RL Chrysler" <lchrysl at fhs.csu.McMaster.CA>
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 16:15:51 -0400
Subject: Re: Tech session
Gosh, Don, I wish I could make it but it's a bit too far for a 1 day thing,
coming from Southern Ontario. The car is presently in 12 storage boxes, the
attic of my garage, and the chassis is in nice dry storage nearby, so it'll
be a couple of years to get some pictures!
Hope you all have a good turn out from this wide open invitiation!<g>
Rich Chrysler
----- Original Message -----
From: <Drtrite@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2000 9:52 AM
Subject: Tech session
>
> Just a reminder that this Saturday is our regular tech session at Dick
> Solomon's. Be there to get your share of coffee and donuts!
>
> If you have some pictures of your car please bring them. Tim and I will
scan
> them and post them on the club web site.
>
> Don Lenschow
>
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 16:57:24 EDT
Subject: Tech Session #2
Sorry about the tech session notice going to the Healey list. Hit wrong
Healey list.
But, if you want to come down to Texas for a good cup of coffee and some
donuts I'll see you Saturday morning.
Regards,
Don Lenschow
NTAHC
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 17:20:14 -0500
Subject: Re: Tech Session #2
hi don-
you better make sure those list guys r.s.v.p. where i'll know how many extra
donuts to get.
jerry
----- Original Message -----
From: Drtrite@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Tech Session #2
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 16:57:24 EDT
Sorry about the tech session notice going to the Healey list. Hit wrong
Healey list.
But, if you want to come down to Texas for a good cup of coffee and some
donuts I'll see you Saturday morning.
Regards,
Don Lenschow
NTAHC
From "David" <david_m at radiantsoundworks.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 19:16:14 -0400
Subject: Need some more opinions....
Hi All,
A few weeks back I wrote to the list pleading for a generator pulley, and
for advice on my toe-out problem. Well since that time I found a new pulley
and was able to adjust my steering. I had also posted some pictures of my
newly rebuilt engine.
Now that you know who I am, I hope you can help me with my latest problem.
On or around Aug 26, I get her started. After a little bit of tuning she was
running beautifully. I haven't felt my Healey feel that good ever! The
steering felt great, and the engine was purring....she even idled smoothly.
I have been updating my little web site with some more pictures, although
it's nothing like Mr. Werner's beautiful site.
Today after about 400 or 500 miles of around town driving, I decided that
she was ready to show off at work. That's about 47 miles of highway
cruising. I never exceeded 60....and I kept changing my engine speed. She
felt good. Then about half-way there something went very wrong. I lost a
cylinder. I pulled over and checked my ignition and carburetors....I could
find nothing wrong. I prayed that I have a fouled plug for some crazy
reason. When I got to work I did a bit more checking and found that if I put
my hand over the exhaust pipe from the rear three cylinders, I got
SUCTION...A BAD VALVE....oh God! To make this story shorter, in the end I
wound up putting her on a ramp truck for a $185 ride home.
I just came up from the garage. The head is back off. The exhaust valve on
number 5 was stuck open. It siezed into the guide so hard that it bent the
pushrod. I have brand new valves with brand new original style cast iron
guides. I know....but my machine shop insisted that they have seen a ton of
bad guides of the newer material...all on british cars. Regardless...cast
iron worked in 1964, and it should work reasonable well today?
I spoke to the machine shop on the phone and they have no explanation. I
asked if they checked the clearance when they install new valves with newly
installed guides, and they said they do...and did.
Guys....what the hell went wrong? I got the valve out of the guide and there
are two narrow scores opposite of each other on the stem. With the valve and
guide squeaky clean, the valve still binds up in the guide. The clearance is
simply wrong. And mind you this is stone cold! Tonight I plan on taking all
of the valves out and one by one seeing how they feel.
I'm looking for advice on what to do now. I have one new valve, guide,
pushrod, and gasket set coming in tomorrow. If the others feel okay, should
I assume that I just had a dud and just replace the parts and reassemble?
What is the proper way to measure the clearance? My Bentley manual states
the valve guide clearance for the exhaust to be 1 to 2 mils. I have a dial
gage with a magnetic base, but I am not sure what the correct procedure is.
Do I measure for a side to side movement of that amount? Where...at the
rocker side or the seat side?
Thoughts?
Thanks in advance....and you can check out my little site if you'd like, but
it doesn't compare to Jim's. It's also not done. I have about 15 or 20 more
pictures to document the work. I made the pictures smaller for faster
downloading....if you want to see more detail you can click on the pic for a
bigger one. I'll get back to updating the site after she's running again.
www.radiantsoundworks.com/AustinHealey.html
Dave
BJ8...apart AGAIN!
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 19:57:47 EDT
Subject: NO LBC - Gun Lovers ONLY
Sorry to bomb the List(s), but one of my customer's (MGTD) has just come
into posession of something VERY rare and intriguing. This weapon is SOLID
steel except for the ivory inlays in the "butt" !! SOLID. The "barrel"
(octagon) [LBC content] rest in a carved out grove!!!! The "etching" is
REAL. Description and Link will be sent to those folks requesting same.
The "carving" is UNREAL" !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Cheers..............
Ed
From Joseph Elmer <Joelmer at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 07 Sep 2000 20:10:34 -0400
Subject: Re: Diagnose #4
Head gasket incorrectly installed when rebuilt: also maybe needed a good
flushing of all the rust and crud that accumulated in the block over 30
years. Joe Elmer
RANDALL NEVIS wrote:
> Have enjoyed the diagnoses, here is one for you all, But Dave knows the
> answer, so Dave let the rest think about it.
>
> Have a 1960 Frogeye, got it last year. The other owners had the engine
> rebuilt about five years ago. Didn't drive it much because of an over
> heating problem, no one could figure it out, so I got a real great deal on
> this car. So I went to work on trying to figure out why it over heats.
> Checked the thermostat, water pump, cap, visual on hoses, timming etc.
> Nothing...So anyone out ther figure out what it turned out to be?
>
> Randall
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 20:13:52 EDT
Subject: Re: Jim Werner's webpage
One of the best!
John
100-Six Erika the Red
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 21:31:15 EDT
Subject: Re: Diagnose #4
In a message dated 9/7/00 11:50:30 AM, randallt@uswest.net writes:
<< Checked the thermostat, water pump, cap, visual on hoses, timming etc.
Nothing...So anyone out ther figure out what it turned out to be? >>
Symptons consistent with clogged water passages in engine.
Gary
From Bill Holt <lbcholt at one.net>
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 21:44:50 -0400
Subject: Re: Road Rules
><< I didn't mean to get too esoteric. Peleton is the main body of riders in
>the Tour de France
>
>thanks -- a brand new word -- I have to replace the one that I have -- any
>decent dictionary should have had that one.
>
>Cheers
>Gary
Correction. Before you add that word, Gary, the word is spelled
P-E-L-O-T-O-N.
Bill Holt
From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 20:17:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Stopping to Help
But don't British sports car drivers gather their cars together and
drive far away from home for the challenge of solving breakdowns . . .
somewhat like auto race spectators go to see the wrecks?
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 23:59:59 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: about Firestone/or any tire issue (real question)
Rick
All I know about this is what I have read and seen during the hearings. - plus
ordinary Logic.
I agree that the questioners weren't very adept and had sub-agendas,
especially regarding NHTSA, but the two Americans for Firestone were incredibly
evasive and downright lying.
It can't be that Firestone STILL "has no idea why the treads come completely
off the carcass", as they insist. I could dream up all sorts of methodology to
replicate the circumstances - such as spin the tires at increasing speeds, at
decreasing PSIs, at increasing temperatures - until a tread broke loose - all
the while filming at high speed. I'm sure that every manufacturer including
Denman and Hoosier, let alone Bridgestone/Firestone, are Constantly doing
stress tests and sampling of their production tires.
Ford put on a good face, while trying to put All the blame on Firestone, but
you notice that Ford is Still equipping its SUVs with Firestone tires aren't
they. Would you put Firestones on your SUVs if you were Ford in light of what
was said yesterday? Impossible, yet all Jac Nasser would say is that they are
"day to day" with Firestone.
Have you heard or read one single word to make you think that a replacement
Firestone Wilderness is any different than the one taken off? I haven't, and
since Firestone and Ford insist that they have no idea what is causing the
problem how do they know they aren't making and installing defective tires
Right Now?
They don't !!
There have always been and always be tread separations, but they are noticeable
bulges in sidewalls etc.
The problem here is the car manufacturers have not been willing to stand behind
the tires on the car they sell (read your Warranty), and the tire companies run
away from claims as fast as they are made. I noticed a large bulge on the
sidewall of a Michelin 16" OEM tire on my Dodge Grand Caravan at aout 5,000
miles. The Dodge Dealer sent me to the Michelin dealer who said "You must have
hit a pot-hole" "Not covered" (I had to shell out $125 for a new tire - unless
I wanted to file a lawsuit)
The Tire Companies have built a fool-proof system. As they testified
yesterday, they Do NOT warrant tires for any specific mileage. 30,40,50,60,000
mile tires are an invention of marketing and done at the dealer level. All
adjustments are "Customer Satisfaction" if at all, meaning we (the
manufacturer) didn't do anything wrong but we're giving you a few bucks off a
new tire to keep you happy. They have been running this scam as long as I've
been driving. If you complain about rapid treadwear they "adjust" against the
full retail price (same with batteries BTW), which could e as much as twice
what an ordinary Joe might pay for the same tire if he walked in off the street.
So the "Customer Satisfaction" ends up costing everyone exactly Nothing -
except the end-user.
A good friend of mine is an Interstate Battery DISTRIBUTOR and he told me the
only difference between the various grades of batteries IS THE PRICE. The guts
are all the same. Price determines "months".
What we are seeing is a tragic case of Consumer Quality Control cooupled with
Cost Benefit Analysis. That was the case with the Firestone 500 tire - the
Pinto gastank and lots of products.
It's just that most of the time you end up stalled by the side of the road or
with an inoperative AC or your windows won't go up and down. In the case of
tires you can also end up DEAD
---- you wrote:
>
> In a message dated 9/7/00 10:05:47, dickb@cheerful.com writes:
>
> << If there is any doubt in anyone's mind that Firestone and Ford have filthy
> hands in this whole affair - and have had them for many, many years - they
> don't believe what they read in the newspapers or what they can see on TV.
> The hearings that are now going on are disgusting in my opinion and I really
> doubt that Firestone will be seen or heard of a year from now. I only hope
> the CEO of Bridgestone doesn't commit hari-kiri when he gets home to Japan.
>
> Regards,
>
> Dick >>
>
> I've never been a fan of Firestone tires and have been following, when I can,
> some of the hearings. I saw some questioners asking a lot of question in a
> not very scientific or accurate way, making the legal talk of the firestone
> people look pretty bad about failure rates and complaints. I've not yet heard
> anyone ask, or even cite what the industry average failure rate is, almost as
> if Firestone is the only tire that fails.
> Yes, the positive correlation between the replacement workers and the double
> rate of failure from the Decatur plant is disturbing. That is a problem that
> appears directly related, and the possibility of some coinciding event
> (different chemical batches, etc.) seems implausible.
> Have you (anyone) heard any industry data on quality issues or
> accidents/deaths caused by tires? I find it hard to believe that
> Firestone/Bridgestone is the tire company that has tire failures.
>
> Rick
> San Diego
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From Robert Dobrowski <rsdslp at juno.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 21:25:04 -0700
Subject: Re: Diagnose #4
The vacuum and/or mechanical advance wasn't working so the engine was
running retarded at cruise.
On Thu, 7 Sep 2000 11:51:38 -0700 "RANDALL NEVIS" <randallt@uswest.net>
writes:
>
> Have enjoyed the diagnoses, here is one for you all, But Dave knows
> the
> answer, so Dave let the rest think about it.
>
> Have a 1960 Frogeye, got it last year. The other owners had the
> engine
> rebuilt about five years ago. Didn't drive it much because of an
> over
> heating problem, no one could figure it out, so I got a real great
> deal on
> this car. So I went to work on trying to figure out why it over
> heats.
> Checked the thermostat, water pump, cap, visual on hoses, timming
> etc.
> Nothing...So anyone out ther figure out what it turned out to be?
>
> Randall
>
________________________________________________________________
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Thu, 07 Sep 2000 21:49:10 -0700
Subject: Re: Road Rules
Roland:
As much as I like to go it alone, the fun of driving in the group can't be
duplicated.
I can suffer driving at the slowest speed to be part of the fun and excitement
of
driving with 10 other Healeys.
Ron Rader
Roland Wilhelmy wrote:
> My experience may be limited but based on it, I would vote for Jim's
> 15 minute rule. Where would the faster drivers rather wait for the
> others? Waiting before leaving for the next leg makes it much more
> likely that all cars will end up at the same place at the same time
> (see Gary's letter for examples of what happens when the fast crowd
> wait at the "next" stop). Maybe if the fast crowd has other plans
> there should be two groups and they just get together at the end of
> the day. Unmet expectations are the source of frustration.
>
> Two years ago Loreen and I drove a non-LBC as the 'sag wagon' at the
> end of a train of Healeys, some driven and a few on trailers, from San
> Diego to Oregon. Herding Healeys at 55 mph isn't very exciting but it
> has its compensations. There is time to experience the scenery. The
> group traveled at the rate of the slowest vehicle.
>
> This summer Loreen and I drove our BJ7 2600 miles from San Diego to
> Ocean Shores and back, some times with just one other Healey, and some
> times with more than ten. The fast crowd, when there was one, left
> when they chose to, which was usually first. This worked out OK,
> except when the whole group got over about ten cars. But I think
> there was less stress on all concerned in the arrangement where all
> traveled together. Traveling as a group isn't for everyone, or every
> time, but when in a group there need to be rules (call them guidelines
> if 'rules' gets your back up) that everyone knows and tries to follow,
> mostly.
>
> -Roland
>
> On Thu, 7 Sep 2000 10:00:01 EDT, Jim wrote:
>
> :: Dick,
> ::
> :: These are Road Rules and number four is deliberate. It's my way of saying
> :: screw 'em. you always have someone who has to drive faster than the rest
>and
> :: pressure those who are not comfortable at that speed. I can drive fast but
>at
> :: the end of the day I would rather say I supported my friends instead of
> :: arriving at the destination six minutes ahead of everyone.
> ::
> :: You are correct, the fifteen minute late start is a no win situation and
>it's
> :: meant to be that way.
> :: Jim
> ::
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2000 00:42:12 -0400
Subject: Re: Diagnose #4
Yank the 289 and put the 4 cylinder back in. RayfixitanddribeitFeehan.
-----Original Message-----
From: RANDALL NEVIS <randallt@uswest.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, September 07, 2000 2:56 PM
Subject: Diagnose #4
>
>Have enjoyed the diagnoses, here is one for you all, But Dave knows the
>answer, so Dave let the rest think about it.
>
>Have a 1960 Frogeye, got it last year. The other owners had the engine
>rebuilt about five years ago. Didn't drive it much because of an over
>heating problem, no one could figure it out, so I got a real great deal on
>this car. So I went to work on trying to figure out why it over heats.
>Checked the thermostat, water pump, cap, visual on hoses, timming etc.
>Nothing...So anyone out ther figure out what it turned out to be?
>
>Randall
>
>
From "William A Boylan" <WNBOYLAN at prodigy.net>
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2000 04:30:49 -0700
Subject: Re: Road Rules
Here is my $.02 worth:
Let the fast drivers go there own way, and pretty much the same for the
slow ones. I think that common courtesy would dictate that if you expect to
be included in a group, you should not expect the group to adjust their
activities to accommodate you. At the same time, at the outset, there should
be some guidelines that are easy to understand, and these guidelines should
be adhered to. If we say we are leaving Mom & Pops grocery at 07:00, then we
should plan on leaving at 07:00, not at 07:10.
Bill Boylan
60 BT7 (In Restoration)
----- Original Message -----
From: Ron Rader <rader@interworld.net>
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>; Healey, List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2000 9:49 PM
Subject: Re: Road Rules
>
> Roland:
> As much as I like to go it alone, the fun of driving in the group can't be
> duplicated.
> I can suffer driving at the slowest speed to be part of the fun and
excitement of
> driving with 10 other Healeys.
> Ron Rader
>
>
> Roland Wilhelmy wrote:
>
> > My experience may be limited but based on it, I would vote for Jim's
> > 15 minute rule. Where would the faster drivers rather wait for the
> > others? Waiting before leaving for the next leg makes it much more
> > likely that all cars will end up at the same place at the same time
> > (see Gary's letter for examples of what happens when the fast crowd
> > wait at the "next" stop). Maybe if the fast crowd has other plans
> > there should be two groups and they just get together at the end of
> > the day. Unmet expectations are the source of frustration.
> >
> > Two years ago Loreen and I drove a non-LBC as the 'sag wagon' at the
> > end of a train of Healeys, some driven and a few on trailers, from San
> > Diego to Oregon. Herding Healeys at 55 mph isn't very exciting but it
> > has its compensations. There is time to experience the scenery. The
> > group traveled at the rate of the slowest vehicle.
> >
> > This summer Loreen and I drove our BJ7 2600 miles from San Diego to
> > Ocean Shores and back, some times with just one other Healey, and some
> > times with more than ten. The fast crowd, when there was one, left
> > when they chose to, which was usually first. This worked out OK,
> > except when the whole group got over about ten cars. But I think
> > there was less stress on all concerned in the arrangement where all
> > traveled together. Traveling as a group isn't for everyone, or every
> > time, but when in a group there need to be rules (call them guidelines
> > if 'rules' gets your back up) that everyone knows and tries to follow,
> > mostly.
> >
> > -Roland
> >
> > On Thu, 7 Sep 2000 10:00:01 EDT, Jim wrote:
> >
> > :: Dick,
> > ::
> > :: These are Road Rules and number four is deliberate. It's my way of
saying
> > :: screw 'em. you always have someone who has to drive faster than the
rest and
> > :: pressure those who are not comfortable at that speed. I can drive
fast but at
> > :: the end of the day I would rather say I supported my friends instead
of
> > :: arriving at the destination six minutes ahead of everyone.
> > ::
> > :: You are correct, the fifteen minute late start is a no win situation
and it's
> > :: meant to be that way.
> > :: Jim
> > ::
>
From "John Sims" <J_L_Sims at email.msn.com>
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2000 05:28:17 -0700
Subject: Towing
Just a quick note to thank all the listers who gave me advise on towing my
BN6 from Las Vegas to New Jersey. I disconnected the drive shaft and put it
on a tow dolly and was able to make the trip with no problems -- except --
90 miles out I stopped at a Truck Stop in Kingman, Arizona and just as I was
getting out of my car, a guy walked up and said -- recognize this. I said --
sure it looks like an exhaust system for a Healey -- Aw S@#$.
Anyway, my true love is safely esconced in a garage in New Jersey while we
are waiting to get into our new house. I want to publicly thank Ed Santoro
and his friends for giving me the storage and for other advice that they
have given me.
Makes me proud of our Healey fraternity
John Sims, BN6
Las Vegas oops Aberdeen, NJ
From GLOWNSDALE at aol.com
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2000 08:59:28 EDT
Subject: Re: Need some more opinions....
Dave,
I believe that you experienced valve galling on your initial startup. This
is not that uncommon after a complete engine rebuild. Careful sizing of the
valve guide to the valve stem can minimize the possibility of this
occurrence. However, careful prelubrication, pressurizing the oil system
before the initial startup, and short warmups and shutdowns before initial
driving can prevent this from occurring.
Your machine shop may have done everything correctly. If the initial
startup prep work is not done meticulously, a great deal of wear and/or
damage can be done to the engine internally during the initial startup and
drive-in period.
This occurred with one of my Lotus overhead twin-cam race engines years
ago, and I learned a very expensive lesson about pre-startup preparation. I
keep the valve on my shelf at the shop as a reminder to myself to be very
careful. I believe that you may learned a similar lesson that will stay with
you for years.
Let me know if I can help with advice on your next rebuild.
Best regards,
Gary L
From "Douglas W. Flagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2000 09:42:55 -0400
Subject: Re:66 BJ8 For Sale
I should have available by tomorrow a .jpg file showing the '66 BJ8 being
offered by Mrs. Rounds for sale. For those of you who may be interested
in this beautiful German exported Healey please contact me off the list.
The car is located on the west coast. It has 72 spoke chromed wire wheels
w/Michelin tyres, badge bar with a pair of Lucas lamps, factory style
luggage rack, and wooden steering wheel. Also, has the original locking
steering column ignition. Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
From "S.HUTCHINGS" <hutching at myna.com>
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2000 10:24:19 -0400
Subject: Fuel in France
This is a bit off topic, but I hope nobody minds me using the resources of
the list.
I'll be in France for two weeks as of next Tuesday, and I wondered if there
were any listers out there
based in France who could give me an idea of how serious the fuel blockade is.
We fly to Toulouse, and I wonder .....how far will we get from the airport?
Regards, Stephen
From "S.HUTCHINGS" <hutching at myna.com>
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2000 10:26:24 -0400
Subject: Re; Stopping to help
People who go to races to see wrecks are not racing fans, they're
called"Ghouls".
Stephen
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2000 08:35:00 -0600
Subject: Re: Stopping to Help
Pete,
repeat after me...run-brake, run-brake, run-brake
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{) 54 BN1
Click below for webpage and mopeds:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pete Cowper" <pcowper@webtv.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2000 9:17 PM
Subject: Stopping to Help
>
> But don't British sports car drivers gather their cars together and
> drive far away from home for the challenge of solving breakdowns . . .
> somewhat like auto race spectators go to see the wrecks?
>
> Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
>
>
From "Donald L. Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2000 09:50:44 -0500
Subject: Fuel in France
Stephen wrote:
We fly to Toulouse, and I wonder .....how far will we get from the airport?
Regards, Stephen
I hope you get all the way to Toulouse.
Don
BN7
From "Joe Farley" <Joe at Farley.net>
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2000 11:27:06 -0700
Subject: RE: about Firestone/or any tire issue (real question)
Actually there are differences in the batteries, all lead acid batteries
shed material from the plates as a result of the chemical process within
the battary. This material falls to the bottom and eventually builds up
and shorts the plates.
The difference between the 24, 36, or 48 month batteries is the depth of
the trough at the bottom of the battery. The deeper the trough the longer
it takes for the build up to short out the plates.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of dickb@cheerful.com
> Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2000 9:00 PM
> To: WilKo@aol.com; austin healey list
> Subject: Re: about Firestone/or any tire issue (real question)
>
> A good friend of mine is an Interstate Battery DISTRIBUTOR and he
> told me the only difference between the various grades of
> batteries IS THE PRICE. The guts are all the same. Price
> determines "months".
>
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2000 15:18:34 EDT
Subject: Truck Safety - serious paranoia (little LBC content)
If you want a source for serious on-the-highway safety in your LBC, consider
the
report that aired on PBS Nightly News Hour last night. Over 5,000 people are
killed on the highways every year in accidents directly attributable to
mechanical and safety defects of commercial trucks. Yet there is no
comprehensive authority or funding for the new agency that has replaced the
ICC having oversight authority over interstate highway commerce that would
allow them to inspect trucks, receive or share data from individual state
oversight authorities. When states inspect commercial trucks, they report
that between 20 and 25 percent are unsafe enough to warrant being taken out
of service until repairs are made (frayed brake hoses, poor tires, tie-downs
in poor condition, lights not working, etc.)
So the next time you're passing one of those big semis on the highway in your
little British car, just consider that the odds are about one in four or five
that the truck is running in an unsafe condition. Makes the odds of dying
because of Firestone 15 inch AT tires, though quite real, seem very small by
comparison. Maybe this is something we should all write our congresspersons
about.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Editor, British Car Magazine
From Herman Farrer <herman at hfphoto.com>
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2000 15:33:28 -0400
Subject: RE: about Firestone/or any tire issue (real question)
>
>The difference between the 24, 36, or 48 month batteries is the depth of
>the trough at the bottom of the battery. The deeper the trough the longer
>it takes for the build up to short out the plates.
>
> > A good friend of mine is an Interstate Battery DISTRIBUTOR and he
>> told me the only difference between the various grades of
>> batteries IS THE PRICE. The guts are all the same. Price
>> determines "months".
>>
I asked the same question of my Interstate distributor and he replied
that batteries are the same. A more expensive battery gets you a
longer warrentee.
Herman
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2000 15:47:40 EDT
Subject: Pineapple Upside Down Healey Meet
Like to go to a Healey Meet in March? One with lots of sun, but no cars?
We're planning the first (who knows, it might be annual) Pineapple Upside
Down Healey Meet on Oahu in Hawaii. March 1-4 (Thursday, Friday, Saturday,
and Sunday) at Turtle Bay Hilton. Rooms will be $145 per night or less
(depending on numbers) and we may be able to work a package air fare out of
LAX.
Can't bring our cars, of course, but at least we'll have a chance to see the
British Cars of Oahu (and see if Perry and Kimberley Small--our local hosts--
actually have a Healey).
If you're interested, at all, email me and I'll give you more details. If
you have any
Healey friends without email who you think might enjoy a few days to kick
back and relax in Hawaii, let them know.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2000 13:58:16 -0600
Subject: Re: Truck Safety - serious paranoia (little LBC content)
Gary,
Not a bad idea but I would think more effective if we keep it at the state
level or better yet just contact the State Patrol on ones CB when an unsafe
vehicle of any kind is using the highways..
Had a Chrysler van with a space saver tire on the front right pass me at
over 70MPH last evening...looked like a Soccer Mom...that's really scary!
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{) 54 BN1
Click below for webpage and mopeds:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 08, 2000 1:18 PM
Subject: Truck Safety - serious paranoia (little LBC content)
>
> If you want a source for serious on-the-highway safety in your LBC,
consider
> the
> report that aired on PBS Nightly News Hour last night. Over 5,000 people
are
> killed on the highways every year in accidents directly attributable to
> mechanical and safety defects of commercial trucks. Yet there is no
> comprehensive authority or funding for the new agency that has replaced
the
> ICC having oversight authority over interstate highway commerce that would
> allow them to inspect trucks, receive or share data from individual state
> oversight authorities. When states inspect commercial trucks, they report
> that between 20 and 25 percent are unsafe enough to warrant being taken
out
> of service until repairs are made (frayed brake hoses, poor tires,
tie-downs
> in poor condition, lights not working, etc.)
>
> So the next time you're passing one of those big semis on the highway in
your
> little British car, just consider that the odds are about one in four or
five
> that the truck is running in an unsafe condition. Makes the odds of dying
> because of Firestone 15 inch AT tires, though quite real, seem very small
by
> comparison. Maybe this is something we should all write our
congresspersons
> about.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
> Editor, British Car Magazine
>
From Bill Holt <lbcholt at one.net>
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2000 15:59:31 -0400
Subject: Re: Truck Safety - serious paranoia (little LBC content)
I avoid semis on the highway regardless of what I'm driving. Unless I
invest in an armored vehicle, my chances of surviving any incident with a
semi are pretty slim.
Bill Holt
>So the next time you're passing one of those big semis on the highway in
your
>little British car, just consider that the odds are about one in four or
five
>that the truck is running in an unsafe condition. Makes the odds of dying
>because of Firestone 15 inch AT tires, though quite real, seem very small by
>comparison. Maybe this is something we should all write our congresspersons
>about.
>
>Cheers
>Gary Anderson
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2000 16:18:34 -0400
Subject: Re: about Firestone/or any tire issue (real question)
I've got to chime in with a major disagreement on this one. There is a
significant difference between good batteries and junk batteries. Just lift
them to get a comparison. The more lead, the better the battery. A deep
cycle Rolls/Surette battery is a lot heavier than its Sears/Interstate
equivalent (except they aren't equivalent).
Lee
'62 BT7 Tri-carb
-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Farley <Joe@Farley.net>
To: dickb@cheerful.com <dickb@cheerful.com>; Healey List
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, September 08, 2000 2:27 PM
Subject: RE: about Firestone/or any tire issue (real question)
>
>Actually there are differences in the batteries, all lead acid batteries
>shed material from the plates as a result of the chemical process within
>the battary. This material falls to the bottom and eventually builds up
>and shorts the plates.
>
>The difference between the 24, 36, or 48 month batteries is the depth of
>the trough at the bottom of the battery. The deeper the trough the longer
>it takes for the build up to short out the plates.
>
>
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
>> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of dickb@cheerful.com
>> Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2000 9:00 PM
>> To: WilKo@aol.com; austin healey list
>> Subject: Re: about Firestone/or any tire issue (real question)
>>
>> A good friend of mine is an Interstate Battery DISTRIBUTOR and he
>> told me the only difference between the various grades of
>> batteries IS THE PRICE. The guts are all the same. Price
>> determines "months".
>>
>
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2000 16:24:16 -0400
Subject: Side curtain rehab
My PO promised me a new set of side curtains, but I've been trying to rehab
one with new glass and new rubber gaskets to try and save him some bucks.
I'm having a lot of trouble figuring out how the new gasket is supposed to
be installed. The rubber is shaped as if there were a groove in the bottom
of the main groove to hold the gasket in place, but the frame doesn't seem
to have a groove.
Is there a magic trick to this, or is a special tool needed? My first
Healey tour is tomorrow (Shore to Shore 2000 with the Capital Area Austin
Healey Club), and I would like some protection is case the weather guesser
is wrong.
Lee
'62 BT7 Tri-carb
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2000 16:34:13 -0400
Subject: Re: Truck Safety - serious paranoia (little LBC content) LOTS OF LBC
CONTENT!!!
Gary and the other Regulators -
You guys are standing into big trouble here. The last thing a Healey owner
should want is the government (state or federal) getting into more safety
checking. There isn't one of our beloved LBCs that can meet current
regulations inacted to increase "safety".
I took my best friend (retired cop) for a ride in my Tri-carb last week.
After doing a sedate 55 mph in the right lane of the DC Beltway, he
announced that I'd scared him to death, and that those little cars are "too
dangerous for today's roads!". And he isn't even a Clinton libera!!! In
today's "not my falult" society, five of five LBCs would be judged to be
running in an unsafe condition!!
Lee
'62 BT7 Tri-carb
>... just consider that the odds are about one in four or five
>that the truck is running in an unsafe condition. Makes the odds of dying
>because of Firestone 15 inch AT tires, though quite real, seem very small
by
>comparison. Maybe this is something we should all write our congresspersons
>about.
From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2000 13:25:20 -0700
Subject: RE: about Firestone/or any tire issue (real question)
I just replaced the Die-hard in my B-GT after 8 years of service! I
remember when we had floods here in Santa Barbara about 5 years ago I pulled
the car out of a huge puddle with the starter and spent 45 minutes trying to
get the car going the battery never gave me any indication that it might be
losing power. The new Die-Hard was about $65 and if it lasts half as well
as the old one I will be very, very pleased.
Jonathan Lane
Retail Sales
Moss Motors, Ltd.
(800) 235-6954 x3240
(805) 692-2525 - Fax
lanej@mossmotors.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Lee S. Mairs [mailto:lmairs@ix.netcom.com]
Sent: Friday, September 08, 2000 1:19 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: Re: about Firestone/or any tire issue (real question)
I've got to chime in with a major disagreement on this one. There is a
significant difference between good batteries and junk batteries. Just lift
them to get a comparison. The more lead, the better the battery. A deep
cycle Rolls/Surette battery is a lot heavier than its Sears/Interstate
equivalent (except they aren't equivalent).
Lee
'62 BT7 Tri-carb
-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Farley <Joe@Farley.net>
To: dickb@cheerful.com <dickb@cheerful.com>; Healey List
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, September 08, 2000 2:27 PM
Subject: RE: about Firestone/or any tire issue (real question)
>
>Actually there are differences in the batteries, all lead acid batteries
>shed material from the plates as a result of the chemical process within
>the battary. This material falls to the bottom and eventually builds up
>and shorts the plates.
>
>The difference between the 24, 36, or 48 month batteries is the depth of
>the trough at the bottom of the battery. The deeper the trough the longer
>it takes for the build up to short out the plates.
>
>
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
>> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of dickb@cheerful.com
>> Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2000 9:00 PM
>> To: WilKo@aol.com; austin healey list
>> Subject: Re: about Firestone/or any tire issue (real question)
>>
>> A good friend of mine is an Interstate Battery DISTRIBUTOR and he
>> told me the only difference between the various grades of
>> batteries IS THE PRICE. The guts are all the same. Price
>> determines "months".
>>
>
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2000 15:05:08 -0600
Subject: Re: Truck Safety - serious paranoia (little LBC content) LOTS OF LBC
CONTENT!!!
Lee,
I'd bet that 5 out of 6 late models with 40K or greater mileage is far more
unsafe than any enthusiast's Healey .
Wanna see scary, go hang around a brake repair shop for a while......
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{) 54 BN1
Click below for webpage and mopeds:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs@ix.netcom.com>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 08, 2000 2:34 PM
Subject: Re: Truck Safety - serious paranoia (little LBC content) LOTS OF
LBC CONTENT!!!
>
> Gary and the other Regulators -
> You guys are standing into big trouble here. The last thing a Healey
owner
> should want is the government (state or federal) getting into more safety
> checking. There isn't one of our beloved LBCs that can meet current
> regulations inacted to increase "safety".
>
> I took my best friend (retired cop) for a ride in my Tri-carb last week.
> After doing a sedate 55 mph in the right lane of the DC Beltway, he
> announced that I'd scared him to death, and that those little cars are
"too
> dangerous for today's roads!". And he isn't even a Clinton libera!!! In
> today's "not my falult" society, five of five LBCs would be judged to be
> running in an unsafe condition!!
>
> Lee
> '62 BT7 Tri-carb
>
>
> >... just consider that the odds are about one in four or five
> >that the truck is running in an unsafe condition. Makes the odds of
dying
> >because of Firestone 15 inch AT tires, though quite real, seem very small
> by
> >comparison. Maybe this is something we should all write our
congresspersons
> >about.
>
>
>
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2000 17:20:32 -0400
Subject: Re: Truck Safety - serious paranoia (little LBC content) LOTS OF LBC
CONTENT!!!
>Lee,
> I'd bet that 5 out of 6 late models with 40K or greater mileage is far
more
>unsafe than any enthusiast's Healey .
I don't argue this for a second. I would agreed. However... The problem is
that a Healey enthusiast isn't going to be "da Judge" of your bet. It will
be some bureaucrat looking to make a name for his/herself "making the roads
safe for the ignorant common folk" (Healey enthusiasts like you and me
included.)
Lee
62 BT7 Tri-carb
From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2000 14:17:53 -0700
Subject: Club Booth at Palo Alto Meet?
I'm attending the All British Meet in Palo Alto this Sunday. Alas, I'll be
without my Healey as it's in the shop awaiting new paint. Having just
joined GGAHC a few months ago I would like to meet some of my fellow bay
area club mates. Does anyone know if the Golden Gate Club will be hosting a
tent or table or kegger or whatever? I look forward to seeing some of you
there.
Randy Harris aka Coop
From Herman Farrer <herman at hfphoto.com>
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2000 17:32:57 -0400
Subject: Re: Truck Safety - serious paranoia (little LBC content) LOTS OF
>
>I took my best friend (retired cop) for a ride in my Tri-carb last week.
>After doing a sedate 55 mph in the right lane of the DC Beltway, he
>announced that I'd scared him to death, and that those little cars are "too
dangerous for today's roads!".
Lee,
Your problem was that you were in the right lane doing 55 on a road
where if it isn't at a standstill, many cars & trucks are doing 65-75
mph. The Beltway my test track. After I've completed a repair, the
first thing I do is jump on the Beltway and head for the left. It's a
lot less scary passing a semi at 65 mph than being passed by one
doing the same or more when you are stuck at 55!
Hope to see you and everyone else at Shore 2 Shore 2000 this weekend.
For more info visit the Web site below.
Herman
--
Lucas trained Webmaster
Capital Area Austin Healey Club
http://lightning.prohosting.com/~caahc
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2000 17:33:43 EDT
Subject: Re: Truck Safety - serious paranoia (little LBC content) LOTS OF LBC
CONTENT!!!
In a message dated 09/08/2000 4:02:03 PM Central Daylight Time,
frogeye@gateway.net writes:
<< Wanna see scary, go hang around a brake repair shop for a while...... >>
Now THERE is a SERIOUS "trueism", Dave!!!!
Ed
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2000 17:42:15 EDT
Subject: Re: Truck Safety - serious paranoia (little LBC content)
In a message dated 09/08/2000 2:54:47 PM Central Daylight Time,
frogeye@gateway.net writes:
<< Had a Chrysler van with a space saver tire on the front right pass me at
over 70MPH last evening...looked like a Soccer Mom...that's really scary! >>
He*l, Dave, that's NORMAL around here !!! Even seen a newer Mustang on FOUR
of them "donuts" - AT SPEED ?!?!?!?
Ed
From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2000 14:54:44 -0700
Subject: RE: Truck Safety - serious paranoia (little LBC content)
Picture this: Soccer mom gets a flat in the SUV, which makes her late for
the game so She's driving 70 on the mini-spare and calling the coach to
explain why they don't have a goalie all while trying to control 8 impatient
screaming soccer players in the back seat of the suburban and trying to
remember the right exit.
What is truly the dangerous factor here? I doubt that it is the car.
Jonathan Lane
Retail Sales
Moss Motors, Ltd.
(800) 235-6954 x3240
(805) 692-2525 - Fax
lanej@mossmotors.com
-----Original Message-----
From: JustBrits@aol.com [mailto:JustBrits@aol.com]
Sent: Friday, September 08, 2000 2:42 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Truck Safety - serious paranoia (little LBC content)
In a message dated 09/08/2000 2:54:47 PM Central Daylight Time,
frogeye@gateway.net writes:
<< Had a Chrysler van with a space saver tire on the front right pass me at
over 70MPH last evening...looked like a Soccer Mom...that's really scary!
>>
He*l, Dave, that's NORMAL around here !!! Even seen a newer Mustang on FOUR
of them "donuts" - AT SPEED ?!?!?!?
Ed
From hspethmann at t-online.de (Achim Spethmann)
Date: Sat, 9 Sep 2000 00:20:04 +0200
Subject: Re: Fuel in France
I'm preparing my Healey for a rally in France starting Sep 27 to Oct 6 and
including about 2600 km in the beautiful scenery of the "Massiv Central". So
I'm
instantly praying, that they reach an agreement soon. But the French labor
unions are always very resolute and tenacious against the stubborn government.
At the moment the situation seems to be really serious. About 95% of the gas
stations of Elf and Total-Fina are empty, only the stations in the Paris region
and along the big highways are able to sell some fuel.
That's what we can read and see here in Germany.
Achim in Germany
1964 BJ8 MKIII
From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2000 15:31:10 -0700
Subject: Re: Truck Safety - serious paranoia
In the Healey heading down the Altamont Pass (big, fast, scary California
freeway) on the way to Stockton a few weeks ago. I had an SUV on my bumper
an 18 wheeler directly in front of me and one on each side of me - I was
completely boxed in. The noise was unbearable. Had one of those guys needed
to change lanes I would have been toast.
Coop
From "rons" <arjayarjay at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri Sep 8 17:02:17 2000
Subject: 'Safety Guage
From Brian Mix <brianmix at home.com>
Date: Fri, 08 Sep 2000 16:23:18 -0700
Subject: Re: 'Safety Guage
Brian
http://www.mixed-media.net/100Lemans/
rons wrote:
> Listers -- on the wiring diagram/schematic for my BN1, a 'safety guage' is
> 'drawn' as a circle with a bulb ion it. The so-called guage is clustered
> within the dashboard grouping of instruments. Can anyone tell me how to
> identify it (what it looks like in three dimensions,) what its purpose is
> and how does it do it. (2 out of 3 will suffice). TIA
> Ron
> BN1
From "Pagel, John" <John.Pagel at imotors.com>
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2000 16:25:06 -0700
Subject: RE: 'Safety Guage
It's the oil pressure/water temp gauge in the dash...... They called
it the "safety guage"
From "Edrick Adams" <je.adams at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2000 19:43:35 -0400
Subject: Re: Truck Safety - serious paranoia (little LBC content) LOTS OF LBC
CONTENT!!!
Go Lee!!!
In this 'modern' society of ours, replete with do-gooders and lawyers, the
very last thing we need is more government involvement in any aspect of our
lives. My personal credo is to maintain my car in the condition where I'm
comfortable at 80 mph or above and stay away from questionable situations
even if it means temporarily exceeding the speed of those around me 'til I'm
in the clear. Then I slow down to a speed more radar friendly.
Ed, BN-1
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2000 19:30:04 EDT
Subject: Re: Truck Safety - serious paranoia
In a message dated 9/8/00 3:33:54 PM Pacific Daylight Time, coop1@dnai.com
writes:
Here in California the trucking industry has the legislature and the
California Highway Patrol running scared. Need some powerful group like the
AAA/CSAA to take them on.
I'm tired of:
1. The CHP stopped along side the interstate ticketing a meek, little old
lady in a LBC while the 18 wheelers roar by a 80 MPH, 20 feet behind the car
in front of them.
2. An 18 wheeler 20 feet behind my Erika, "jake braking" to let us know that
75 MPH (in a 55 MPH truck limit zone) is not fast enough for him.
3. Gravel trucks and truckers hauling earth moving equipment dropping rocks
and dirt on me and Erika every time they hit a slight bump in the roadway
surface.
4. A caravan of five 18 wheelers with 20 feet between each along side me as
I'm trying to merge Erika onto the freeway and rapidly heading for the
shoulder ditch or bridge railing.
I'm sure you can add you own fun trucker situations.
John
100-Six Erika the Red
<<
In the Healey heading down the Altamont Pass (big, fast, scary California
freeway) on the way to Stockton a few weeks ago. I had an SUV on my bumper
an 18 wheeler directly in front of me and one on each side of me - I was
completely boxed in. The noise was unbearable. Had one of those guys needed
to change lanes I would have been toast.
Coop >>
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2000 18:33:33 -0500
Subject: RE: 'Safety Guage
Hi,
Unless I'm totally off-base, the safety gauge is the oil pressure/coolant
temperature combination gauge. In size it is about the same as the fuel
gauge.
The reason it shows up electrically as just a bulb is that both the temp
measurement and pressure are non-electrical.
Hope this helps,
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: rons [mailto:arjayarjay@worldnet.att.net]
Sent: Monday, August 27, 1956 3:46 PM
To: Austin Healey
Subject: 'Safety Guage
Listers -- on the wiring diagram/schematic for my BN1, a 'safety guage' is
'drawn' as a circle with a bulb ion it. The so-called guage is clustered
within the dashboard grouping of instruments. Can anyone tell me how to
identify it (what it looks like in three dimensions,) what its purpose is
and how does it do it. (2 out of 3 will suffice). TIA
Ron
BN1
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Fri, 08 Sep 2000 16:38:20 -0700
Subject: Re: Club Booth at Palo Alto Meet?
Don't recall the club doing anything, but I'll be there, '67 3000, BRG with
British front plate. Don Reichel just told me he'll be there with his
bugeye. I suspect "Erika the Red" will be there, John?
How many beers should I bring? <g>
bk
---------------------------------
At 02:17 PM 9/8/00 , Coop1 wrote:
>I'm attending the All British Meet in Palo Alto this Sunday. Alas, I'll be
>without my Healey as it's in the shop awaiting new paint. Having just
>joined GGAHC a few months ago I would like to meet some of my fellow bay
>area club mates. Does anyone know if the Golden Gate Club will be hosting a
>tent or table or kegger or whatever? I look forward to seeing some of you
>there.
>Randy Harris aka Coop
>
From "Masucci, Dave" <dmasucci at pinpointco.com>
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2000 09:19:18 -0400
Subject: RE: Need some more opinions....
Gary Hi,
It's Dave from the Healey list....I'm writing from work hence the different
address.
You may have a point. I put rebuild lube over everything that moves....BUT
the valves. As that came back from the machine shop assembled, I didn't
consider that. I did crank the motor over without the ignition connected.
And I had oil pressure before I actual did start the engine. But those
valves may have run dry for a bit.
Tonight I will get the remainder of the valves out for inspection, and I
will let you all know.
Thanks,
Dave
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2000 20:37:39 EDT
Subject: Re: Truck Safety - serious paranoia
In a message dated 9/8/00 3:33:54 PM, coop1@dnai.com writes:
<< In the Healey heading down the Altamont Pass (big, fast, scary California
freeway) on the way to Stockton a few weeks ago. I had an SUV on my bumper
an 18 wheeler directly in front of me and one on each side of me - I was
completely boxed in. The noise was unbearable. Had one of those guys needed
to change lanes I would have been toast.
Coop >>
Been there -- I usually wear ear plugs when I drive -- cuts out the low
noises created by truck engines and tires, while leaving the upper register
(conversation and scary noises) hearable.
On our trip back from Oregon on I5 last week, I started experimenting and
discovered I could almost always free myself from the pods of traffic created
when 18-wheelers are being tracked by RVs and SUVs that think they absolutely
should be able to pass the trucks, but find that it takes them a long time,
thus tieing up traffic behind them. By simply hanging back, I usually stay
in the holes in between these rolling behemoths.
Cheers
gary
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2000 20:41:03 EDT
Subject: Re: 'Safety Guage
In a message dated 9/8/00 4:03:26 PM, arjayarjay@worldnet.att.net writes:
<< Listers -- on the wiring diagram/schematic for my BN1, a 'safety guage' is
'drawn' as a circle with a bulb ion it. The so-called guage is clustered
within the dashboard grouping of instruments. Can anyone tell me how to
identify it (what it looks like in three dimensions,) what its purpose is
and how does it do it. (2 out of 3 will suffice). TIA >>
Ooooh, an easy one even I can answer -- the safety gauge is the dual water
temperature/oil pressure gauge on the left hand side of the instrument
cluster (unless it's been installed in place of the gas gauge, which I've
seen happen). It is about two inches in diameter and has two needles. The
connection to the wiring harness is only for the illuminating light, since
the gauge hooks up to the engine with an oil pressure tube and a coil-wrapped
tube that goes to the radiator top tank.
Does that help?
Cheers
Gary
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2000 20:45:51 EDT
Subject: Re: Truck Safety - serious paranoia
In a message dated 9/8/00 4:32:15 PM, JSoderling@aol.com writes:
<<
I'm sure you can add you own fun trucker situations.
John
100-Six Erika the Red >>
Now keep in mind that 1 out of every 4 of those trucks has faulty brakes,
faulty signal lights, or load tie-downs that are not in good condition. The
lead-in to the story on public television showed what happened to three cars
when a load of concrete pipe broke loose from a truck when the brakes locked
up and the tie-downs broke. NOT a pretty sight.
Definitely calls for some defensive driving, but I wouldn't want that darned
old government interfering in their rights to drive whatever the hell they
please in the pursuit of their livelihoods.
Safe driving, everyone.
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2000 21:03:49 EDT
Subject: Re: Truck Safety - serious paranoia
In a message dated 09/08/2000 7:48:45 PM Central Daylight Time,
Editorgary@aol.com writes:
<< Now keep in mind that 1 out of every 4 of those trucks has faulty brakes,
faulty signal lights, or load tie-downs that are not in good condition. >>
Darn, Gary. Here in the Chi Market Area, we are "fortunate(?)" enough to
have them babies that "lose" the "hold-down" pin (forget chain(s)) that keep
the dump bed down on the trailer chassis.
Last "correct" count I am aware of only had NINE beds raising from chassis'.
One overpass CLOSED 'cause of "structual damage";
FOUR overhead (as in across the ENTIRE interstate) Directional/Informational
signs are no longer available for the "viewing public";
One fatel accident;
One "Tollway Booth Removed".
Shoot, "everyone" knows them der 18 wheelers are "safe"!!!
Cheers..............
Ed
PS: License Exams and Issuance thereof NOT withstanding!!
PPS: Got an MG Lister going to Ind via Southern route from out by you.
Wanted to go to Twin Cities from Ind. via Chi and I-294. FLAT out advised:
>From Indy go to Champaign, IL; North to I-80; West to I-39; Then head Noth to
p/u I-90. Ya ain't "lived" (no pun intended!!) 'til you've drive the
Borman in any LBC.
From "JISah102" <ah102 at home.com>
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2000 21:11:06 -0400
Subject: Re: Truck Safety - serious paranoia
----- Original Message -----
>
>
> <<
> I'm sure you can add you own fun trucker situations.
> John
> 100-Six Erika the Red >>
>
Try saying FUN TRUCKER 10 times fast.
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Sat, 9 Sep 2000 00:33:54 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: (no subject)
Jaime
I thought the ad was pretty clear - but here goes:
My single filament Halogens (H-1156) are made by NARDA in Germany. Narda is a
Huge Bulb manufacturer.
My twin-filament halogens (H-1157) are made by the largest bulb manufacturer in
Korea. They supply all of the bulbs in Hyundais and Daewoos.
Both types are brand-new and have the exact same base as the 1157s/1156s/1056s/
1057s etc., etc., etc., you are familiar with - namely BA15s and BAY15 bases.
Installing my bulbs is exactly the same as replacing the bulbs you have in your
lights now.
Your BJ8Phase2 has white and yellow lenses in the front and red and yellow
lenses in the rear. The red ones take H1157 (twin filament) - you take off the
lens, twist out the old bulbs and twist in the Halogens. For the whites and
the yellows you remove the lenses, twist out the old bulbs and twist in the new
H1156s(single filament).
If you are still unclear please feel free to call me at 612-571-4227.
H1156 are $30/pair and H1157 are $35/pair both including packing and shipping.
Checks payable to Dick Brill
Best regards,
Dick B
---- you wrote:
> Hello Dick,
> I read with interest your ad in HM...
> I want to get it straight. I own a 66 BJ8 with the original lights.
> Will the lights you offer simpy require a simple twist for replacement? They
> are simply modified bulbs?
>
> Would either the 1 filament or double filament fit my car? I would be
> interested in buying the better one, of course.
>
> Sorry for my candor and ignorance about this issue.
>
> Thanks for the help.
>
> Jaime
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Sat, 9 Sep 2000 00:39:26 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Fwd: Safety at the Gas Pump
I'm forwarding this for the List's information.
---- you wrote:
> Received this from a friend, checked it out and found the email
> address given had change. You can read it here or go to:
> http://www.bp.com/consumerissues/safety.htm
>
> I don't believe we down here have to worry about it except for a few
> days a year, but those of you up North ought to take heed.
>
> Stan
> +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
> Safety at the Gas Pump
>
> The following is reprinted with permission from Oil Express, a
> publication of the Oil Price Information Service.
>
> For years, pumping gasoline into a car's fuel tank has been considered
> a necessary but perfectly safe chore that's performed 16-18 billion
> times a year by American consumers. Now suddenly, it isn't so safe
> any more.
>
> Within the last few months, the Petroleum Equipment Institute (PEI)
> has received nearly 40 reports of gasoline vapors igniting as
> customers fuel up. Nebraska's State Fire Marshal reports 10 such
> incidents in the last year alone, and several since 1997, some leading
> to serious injuries and major damage.
>
> Fires at stations with underground tanks have been limited to the
> dispenser, vehicle and nearby objects. But at outlets with
> aboveground tanks, "damage has been extensive, as tanks failed and
> exploded," the Fire Marshal says.
>
> Now BP Amoco is warning of the dangers after a series of flash fires
> at outlets in the Kansas City area and other parts of the Midwest.
> What's causing the fires has yet to be determined but BP Amoco, the
> American Petroleum Institute and PEI have suggested that static
> electricity may build up during the fueling process during cold, dry
> weather if customers re-enter their cars while fueling. If the
> customer exits his vehicle without touching a metal door or other
> object before he removes the nozzle, he may carry the static charge
> back to the nozzle, igniting the vapors, they say.
>
> BP Amoco is advising customers not to re-enter their cars while
> fueling and to stay near the vehicle while filling up. If they have
> to return to their cars, they should discharge any potential static
> build-up by touching a metal part of the vehicle before touching the
> nozzle again, says the company. Fact sheets are also being offered at
> Amoco stations in the Midwest and on the refiner's Web site (
> http://www.amoco.com/consumersafety ).
>
> The fires reported to PEI during the last five months or so did not
> involve open flames and all the vehicle engines had been turned off,
> says executive VP Bob Renkes. Oil companies and fire authorities
> concluded that static build-up was the cause in every single incident.
>
> However, questions are being raised about why flash fires are suddenly
> occurring. Experts are asking whether a change in chemical
> composition may have affected fuel conductivity, or whether the finish
> on driveways is not dissipating static. Tires are being looked at
> too. Tires are being made with less carbon, which is conductive, and
> more silicon, which does not conduct electricity. Non-conductive
> plastic filler inlets on fuel tanks are also under scrutiny.
>
> by Carole Donoghue, Oil Express Copyright 2000, Oil Price
> Information Service
>
>
>
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Sat, 9 Sep 2000 00:57:51 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: RE: about Firestone/or any tire issue (real question)
Joe
In other words AIR, right --- and Price.
Dick
---- you wrote:
> Actually there are differences in the batteries, all lead acid batteries
> shed material from the plates as a result of the chemical process within
> the battary. This material falls to the bottom and eventually builds up
> and shorts the plates.
>
> The difference between the 24, 36, or 48 month batteries is the depth of
> the trough at the bottom of the battery. The deeper the trough the longer
> it takes for the build up to short out the plates.
>
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> > [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of dickb@cheerful.com
> > Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2000 9:00 PM
> > To: WilKo@aol.com; austin healey list
> > Subject: Re: about Firestone/or any tire issue (real question)
> >
> > A good friend of mine is an Interstate Battery DISTRIBUTOR and he
> > told me the only difference between the various grades of
> > batteries IS THE PRICE. The guts are all the same. Price
> > determines "months".
> >
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Sat, 9 Sep 2000 01:47:21 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Truck Safety - serious paranoia (little LBC content) LOTS OF LBC
CONTENT!!!
Ed, I sure hope your 47 year old shock towers, spindles, hubs, steering gear,
etc can stand up to your "technique", which I assume calls for speeds in excess
of 80 mph.
How will I know it's you when you fliver past me? I'd like to stay way clear.
Do you think the Ghost of Ayn Rand can ride with both you and Lee for Devine
Protection? After all you are on opposite coasts aren't you?
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
> Go Lee!!!
>
> In this 'modern' society of ours, replete with do-gooders and lawyers, the
> very last thing we need is more government involvement in any aspect of our
> lives. My personal credo is to maintain my car in the condition where I'm
> comfortable at 80 mph or above and stay away from questionable situations
> even if it means temporarily exceeding the speed of those around me 'til I'm
> in the clear. Then I slow down to a speed more radar friendly.
>
> Ed, BN-1
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Lee S. Mairs <lmairs@ix.netcom.com>
> To: Editorgary@aol.com <Editorgary@aol.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Friday, September 08, 2000 4:30 PM
> Subject: Re: Truck Safety - serious paranoia (little LBC content) LOTS OF
> LBC CONTENT!!!
>
>
> >
> >Gary and the other Regulators -
> >You guys are standing into big trouble here. The last thing a Healey owner
> >should want is the government (state or federal) getting into more safety
> >checking. There isn't one of our beloved LBCs that can meet current
> >regulations inacted to increase "safety".
> >
> >I took my best friend (retired cop) for a ride in my Tri-carb last week.
> >After doing a sedate 55 mph in the right lane of the DC Beltway, he
> >announced that I'd scared him to death, and that those little cars are "too
> >dangerous for today's roads!". And he isn't even a Clinton libera!!! In
> >today's "not my falult" society, five of five LBCs would be judged to be
> >running in an unsafe condition!!
> >
> >Lee
> >'62 BT7 Tri-carb
> >
> >
> >>... just consider that the odds are about one in four or five
> >>that the truck is running in an unsafe condition. Makes the odds of dying
> >>because of Firestone 15 inch AT tires, though quite real, seem very small
> >by
> >>comparison. Maybe this is something we should all write our
> congresspersons
> >>about.
> >
> >
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Sat, 9 Sep 2000 02:01:02 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Truck Safety - serious paranoia
Gary - or should I call you "my fellow Do-Gooder"
I know what a non-lawyer is called, but what is a non-Do-Gooder called?
I guess a Do-Badder, right?
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 9/8/00 4:32:15 PM, JSoderling@aol.com writes:
>
> <<
> I'm sure you can add you own fun trucker situations.
> John
> 100-Six Erika the Red >>
>
> Now keep in mind that 1 out of every 4 of those trucks has faulty brakes,
> faulty signal lights, or load tie-downs that are not in good condition. The
> lead-in to the story on public television showed what happened to three cars
> when a load of concrete pipe broke loose from a truck when the brakes locked
> up and the tie-downs broke. NOT a pretty sight.
>
> Definitely calls for some defensive driving, but I wouldn't want that darned
> old government interfering in their rights to drive whatever the hell they
> please in the pursuit of their livelihoods.
>
> Safe driving, everyone.
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
Date: Sat, 9 Sep 2000 12:53:10 +1000
Subject: Re: Truck Safety - serious paranoia
Things must be different up North than here in Australia.
In Queensland at least, all commercial vehicles must have a safety
inspection certificate each year to renew the registration so trucks are,
generally, not the problem (although a lot can go wrong in 12 months).
When travelling I have always found the truckers are the ones who make room
for you and realise that they have limitations so keep to the slow lane and
"wave" past faster traffic etc. and are aware of their surroundings, after
all it is their profession.
The ones to worry about are retires on the once-a-year trip dragging a
caravan (trailer home?) who have no idea what the rear vision mirrors are
for, who stop and turn without warning, travel in the wrong lane, more
interested in the scenery than the traffic etc.
I must agree that around town its "Mum's Taxi's" that are the biggest
concern. Get past them as quickly as possible.
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
From "jack_rosen" <jack_rosen at hotmail.com>
Date: Sat, 9 Sep 2000 08:03:47 -0400
Subject: Re: Safety at the Gas Pump
Dick and List,
I've seen that spark at least a hundred times
in my own vehicles here in Michigan, every winter.
I often wondered why we didn't hear more about
cars popping at the pumps.
It would seem that it would take some 'vapor puddling'
like inside the driver's compartment from an open door
during filling that would provide the 'container' for enough
vapors to collect.
Like leaving the door cracked open during filling as well
as the other conditions.
Thanks for pointing out that it can happen, I've already
had 2 "flame on's" in my life already around vehicles and
they're absolutely no fun at all.
A Healey trunk(boot) looks like a perfect vapor container to me,
although the're going to be grounded, most of the fillers run inside
the trunk with no 'metal jacket' like the modern vehicles have
to keep the vapors outside.
I wonder how many Healey fueling systems have a 'varnish'
built up around the outside of the filler tubes as proof that the
gas can get by the gasket(old) and dribble some gas down
the side of the filler neck and into the trunk.
BTW, how many Healey trunks(boots) out there smell like
gas ?? (every one I've met, darn near)
Best not throw the battery switch while at the station eh ?
- - - or maybe ever again !!
Maybe we all need bilge venting and don't know it.
Jack
----- Original Message -----
From: <dickb@cheerful.com>
To: "austin healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2000 12:39 AM
Subject: Fwd: Safety at the Gas Pump
>
> I'm forwarding this for the List's information.
>
> ---- you wrote:
> > Received this from a friend, checked it out and found the email
> > address given had change. You can read it here or go to:
> > http://www.bp.com/consumerissues/safety.htm
> >
> > I don't believe we down here have to worry about it except for a few
> > days a year, but those of you up North ought to take heed.
> >
> > Stan
> > +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
> > Safety at the Gas Pump
> >
> > The following is reprinted with permission from Oil Express, a
> > publication of the Oil Price Information Service.
> >
> > For years, pumping gasoline into a car's fuel tank has been considered
> > a necessary but perfectly safe chore that's performed 16-18 billion
> > times a year by American consumers. Now suddenly, it isn't so safe
> > any more.
> >
> > Within the last few months, the Petroleum Equipment Institute (PEI)
> > has received nearly 40 reports of gasoline vapors igniting as
> > customers fuel up. Nebraska's State Fire Marshal reports 10 such
> > incidents in the last year alone, and several since 1997, some leading
> > to serious injuries and major damage.
> >
> > Fires at stations with underground tanks have been limited to the
> > dispenser, vehicle and nearby objects. But at outlets with
> > aboveground tanks, "damage has been extensive, as tanks failed and
> > exploded," the Fire Marshal says.
> >
> > Now BP Amoco is warning of the dangers after a series of flash fires
> > at outlets in the Kansas City area and other parts of the Midwest.
> > What's causing the fires has yet to be determined but BP Amoco, the
> > American Petroleum Institute and PEI have suggested that static
> > electricity may build up during the fueling process during cold, dry
> > weather if customers re-enter their cars while fueling. If the
> > customer exits his vehicle without touching a metal door or other
> > object before he removes the nozzle, he may carry the static charge
> > back to the nozzle, igniting the vapors, they say.
> >
> > BP Amoco is advising customers not to re-enter their cars while
> > fueling and to stay near the vehicle while filling up. If they have
> > to return to their cars, they should discharge any potential static
> > build-up by touching a metal part of the vehicle before touching the
> > nozzle again, says the company. Fact sheets are also being offered at
> > Amoco stations in the Midwest and on the refiner's Web site (
> > http://www.amoco.com/consumersafety ).
> >
> > The fires reported to PEI during the last five months or so did not
> > involve open flames and all the vehicle engines had been turned off,
> > says executive VP Bob Renkes. Oil companies and fire authorities
> > concluded that static build-up was the cause in every single incident.
> >
> > However, questions are being raised about why flash fires are suddenly
> > occurring. Experts are asking whether a change in chemical
> > composition may have affected fuel conductivity, or whether the finish
> > on driveways is not dissipating static. Tires are being looked at
> > too. Tires are being made with less carbon, which is conductive, and
> > more silicon, which does not conduct electricity. Non-conductive
> > plastic filler inlets on fuel tanks are also under scrutiny.
> >
> > by Carole Donoghue, Oil Express Copyright 2000, Oil Price
> > Information Service
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
>
From SAINTADUB at aol.com
Date: Sat, 9 Sep 2000 08:46:35 EDT
Subject: Re: Fuel in France
Hi Stephen and Achim,
I don't know what will be the future but the situation has good chance to be
cleared after the week end, and it will take at least two days to refuel the
gas stations.
The situation is more critical for diesel engine than for unleaded gas;
anyway, come with some lead substitute if you need leaded petrol, it's
becoming hard to find "old style" petrol in France.
Good luk in our beautifull country,
Philippe
60 BT7
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Sat, 9 Sep 2000 10:03:02 -0400
Subject: Re: 'Safety Guage
> Hi,
>
> Unless I'm totally off-base, the safety gauge is the oil pressure/coolant
> temperature combination gauge. In size it is about the same as the fuel
> gauge.
>
> The reason it shows up electrically as just a bulb is that both the temp
> measurement and pressure are non-electrical.
>
> Hope this helps,
>
> Adnan
Adnan,
The reason it show up electrical is that there is a bulb which goes into a
socket attached to the gauge.
Keith Pennell
From howard young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
Date: Sat, 09 Sep 2000 09:39:24 -0500
Subject: truck safety,etc.
personally,my motto"never drive faster than your guardian angel can
fly!"..........HoYo
From "RL Chrysler" <lchrysl at fhs.csu.McMaster.CA>
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2000 20:36:58 -0400
Subject: Re: 'Safety Guage
The safety gauge is simply the combination oil pressure / water temp. gauge
with an illumination bulb indicated in it. Oil pressure in top half, temp.
in bottom half.
Rich Chrysler
From "S.HUTCHINGS" <hutching at myna.com>
Date: Sat, 9 Sep 2000 10:54:06 -0400
Subject: Re; Re; Fuel in France
Thank you Philippe, and Achim, for your replies on the fuel situation in
France. My main concern
was that the Airports could eventually run out of fuel, but the big problem
seems to be with diesel.
I won't have my Healey with me, unfortunately, but perhaps that's just as well!
Regards, Stephen, BJ8
From Mike Tobin <bt7 at pppatch.com>
Date: Sat, 09 Sep 2000 12:11:19 -0400
Subject: Re: Road Rules/Firestone Tires
At 02:01 PM 09/07/2000 Thursday -0400, BGAHC@aol.com wrote:
>
>Imagine how we would all feel if we had found this out about a Dunlop SP20 or
>Michelin XZX.
Actually, we've suffered three cases of tread separation at speed - two
with Michelins. Within a span of three days we had two Michelin XASs shed
their treads on our Jag 420, one in the front, one in back. When the rear
one went I pulled over only because I wanted to see what the "thump" was,
the Jag didn't seem to notice.
The non-Michelin incident was a few weeks ago with a 16" Uniroyal on our
Suburban - but my wife knows how to drive a truck, so she had a few
exciting moments, nothing more.
Cheers,
Mike Tobin
Pepperell, MA
>Thanks,
>
>Jim Werner
>Louisville, KY
>Visit my Healey Adventure site at www.jamesfwerner.com
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Sat, 9 Sep 2000 11:04:58 -0700
Subject: Re: Safety at the Gas Pump
Interesting, I've thought about these many times and wondered as well
...."BTW, how many Healey trunks(boots) out there smell like gas ?? (every
one I've met, darn near) Best not throw the battery switch while at the
station eh ?- - - or maybe ever again !!"....Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "jack_rosen" <jack_rosen@hotmail.com>
To: <dickb@cheerful.com>; "austin healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2000 5:03 AM
Subject: Re: Safety at the Gas Pump
>
> Dick and List,
>
> I've seen that spark at least a hundred times
> in my own vehicles here in Michigan, every winter.
>
> I often wondered why we didn't hear more about
> cars popping at the pumps.
>
> It would seem that it would take some 'vapor puddling'
> like inside the driver's compartment from an open door
> during filling that would provide the 'container' for enough
> vapors to collect.
>
> Like leaving the door cracked open during filling as well
> as the other conditions.
>
> Thanks for pointing out that it can happen, I've already
> had 2 "flame on's" in my life already around vehicles and
> they're absolutely no fun at all.
>
> A Healey trunk(boot) looks like a perfect vapor container to me,
> although the're going to be grounded, most of the fillers run inside
> the trunk with no 'metal jacket' like the modern vehicles have
> to keep the vapors outside.
>
> I wonder how many Healey fueling systems have a 'varnish'
> built up around the outside of the filler tubes as proof that the
> gas can get by the gasket(old) and dribble some gas down
> the side of the filler neck and into the trunk.
>
> BTW, how many Healey trunks(boots) out there smell like
> gas ?? (every one I've met, darn near)
>
> Best not throw the battery switch while at the station eh ?
> - - - or maybe ever again !!
>
> Maybe we all need bilge venting and don't know it.
>
>
> Jack
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <dickb@cheerful.com>
> To: "austin healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2000 12:39 AM
> Subject: Fwd: Safety at the Gas Pump
>
>
> >
> > I'm forwarding this for the List's information.
> >
> > ---- you wrote:
> > > Received this from a friend, checked it out and found the email
> > > address given had change. You can read it here or go to:
> > > http://www.bp.com/consumerissues/safety.htm
> > >
> > > I don't believe we down here have to worry about it except for a few
> > > days a year, but those of you up North ought to take heed.
> > >
> > > Stan
> > > +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
> > > Safety at the Gas Pump
> > >
> > > The following is reprinted with permission from Oil Express, a
> > > publication of the Oil Price Information Service.
> > >
> > > For years, pumping gasoline into a car's fuel tank has been considered
> > > a necessary but perfectly safe chore that's performed 16-18 billion
> > > times a year by American consumers. Now suddenly, it isn't so safe
> > > any more.
> > >
> > > Within the last few months, the Petroleum Equipment Institute (PEI)
> > > has received nearly 40 reports of gasoline vapors igniting as
> > > customers fuel up. Nebraska's State Fire Marshal reports 10 such
> > > incidents in the last year alone, and several since 1997, some leading
> > > to serious injuries and major damage.
> > >
> > > Fires at stations with underground tanks have been limited to the
> > > dispenser, vehicle and nearby objects. But at outlets with
> > > aboveground tanks, "damage has been extensive, as tanks failed and
> > > exploded," the Fire Marshal says.
> > >
> > > Now BP Amoco is warning of the dangers after a series of flash fires
> > > at outlets in the Kansas City area and other parts of the Midwest.
> > > What's causing the fires has yet to be determined but BP Amoco, the
> > > American Petroleum Institute and PEI have suggested that static
> > > electricity may build up during the fueling process during cold, dry
> > > weather if customers re-enter their cars while fueling. If the
> > > customer exits his vehicle without touching a metal door or other
> > > object before he removes the nozzle, he may carry the static charge
> > > back to the nozzle, igniting the vapors, they say.
> > >
> > > BP Amoco is advising customers not to re-enter their cars while
> > > fueling and to stay near the vehicle while filling up. If they have
> > > to return to their cars, they should discharge any potential static
> > > build-up by touching a metal part of the vehicle before touching the
> > > nozzle again, says the company. Fact sheets are also being offered at
> > > Amoco stations in the Midwest and on the refiner's Web site (
> > > http://www.amoco.com/consumersafety ).
> > >
> > > The fires reported to PEI during the last five months or so did not
> > > involve open flames and all the vehicle engines had been turned off,
> > > says executive VP Bob Renkes. Oil companies and fire authorities
> > > concluded that static build-up was the cause in every single incident.
> > >
> > > However, questions are being raised about why flash fires are suddenly
> > > occurring. Experts are asking whether a change in chemical
> > > composition may have affected fuel conductivity, or whether the finish
> > > on driveways is not dissipating static. Tires are being looked at
> > > too. Tires are being made with less carbon, which is conductive, and
> > > more silicon, which does not conduct electricity. Non-conductive
> > > plastic filler inlets on fuel tanks are also under scrutiny.
> > >
> > > by Carole Donoghue, Oil Express Copyright 2000, Oil Price
> > > Information Service
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------
> >
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Sat, 9 Sep 2000 16:02:21 EDT
Subject: Re: Club Booth at Palo Alto Meet?
In a message dated 9/8/00 4:54:49 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
bkatz@handsonresearch.com writes:
<< I suspect "Erika the Red" will be there, John? >>
She will be there as "the lady in red" looking for introductions to some good
looking Big Healeys.
From AGOrendi at aol.com
Date: Sat, 9 Sep 2000 17:21:25 EDT
Subject: Re: Fuel in France
Hi,
as of today, Sept. 9, the blockade is finished. Enjoy the country, the food
and the wine in particular.
By the way, I am not French, but living in France.
Regards...Andreas
From dave <dmosher at videotron.ca>
Date: Sat, 09 Sep 2000 18:16:39 -0400
Subject: Re: Fuel in France
Hi All,
I just got back from France an hour ago, and I can tell you that in much of the
countryside there isn't a drop to find. There is some in the larger cities
(Paris, Lyon) and some along the toll-heavy autoroutes but beware finding fuel
along the pretty country roads and little villages.
Happy driving,
Dave Mosher
"S.HUTCHINGS" wrote:
> This is a bit off topic, but I hope nobody minds me using the resources of
> the list.
> I'll be in France for two weeks as of next Tuesday, and I wondered if there
> were any listers out there
> based in France who could give me an idea of how serious the fuel blockade is.
> We fly to Toulouse, and I wonder .....how far will we get from the airport?
> Regards, Stephen
From John Trifari <john4 at home.com>
Date: Sat, 09 Sep 2000 06:23:52 -0700
Subject: Re: 3rd brake light
John--check out the Whitney catalog. They have a thing in there called
a Logic Circuit ( part #13PA8974T). It's essentially a great big AND
gate--power to the brake light is generated only if the circuit
receives inputs fom both left and right rear lights (ie if the brake
lights are lit). If a directional is lit, no power gopes to the brake
lihgt. Sure saves running a line under the chassis from the brake light
switch. John Trifari 1955 BN1 (with third brake light/won't leave home
without it)/1965 BJ8 under restoration
JSoderling@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 9/5/00 1:51:35 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
> mbrouill@ix.netcom.com writes:
>
> Mike,
> I just wired it to the brake light terminal on the flasher relay. I'm not
> sure how you would wire it to include directional signals. Although I
> believe Len Hartnett (listed in the AHUSA Resource Book) did split a
> different LED 3rd brake light to have the ends used as directional signals
> and the center part as a 3rd brake light. I don't know how he did it, or if
> it could be done on the Suburban light.
> John
> 100-Six Erika the Red
> <<
> I've been meaning to send you a note since seeing the article. I too have
> been staring at every car going by looking at their brake light bar and
> thought the GM bar was the best one. When you looked at wiring it up, was
> it just one continuos light or could you wire in the directionals also to
> the light bar?
>
> Mike Brouillette
> 59 BT7
> Bedford, NH >>
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 9 Sep 2000 14:20:26 +0100
Subject: Re: Oh Dear - my O/D just clicks
Alan
I am coming to this subject rather late because I have been down in
Perranporth meeting our North american visitors.
Yes the points do disconnect the Pick or Pull coil of the Solenoid but
the missing rubber stop problem is nothing to do with this. The problem
is that the armature is too far out of the solenoid if the bung is
missing and this creates too long a magnetic circuit. The full current
of about 20 Amps will be applied but this is not always enough to pull
the armature into the solenoid. The full current will then remain on and
the coil will overheat and maybe burn out.
I respectfully disagree with Mike because I have suffered from this
problem on more than one occassion over the years. If the buffer is
replaced or better still the casting tapped out 10-32 and a screw and
locknut fitted a costly and unnecessary solenoid replacement will be
avoided.
All the best
>Not strictly correct on the solenoid diagnosis. The points in the top of
>the solenoid serve to disconnect the "Pull" coil, therefore if they fail
>the solenoid will only use a very low current and not pull the armature
>up
>strongly.
>I have seen some sollenoids operate with just the hold coil but the
>setup
>on these is very critical. I believe this is where all the "If the
>little
>rubber stop is missing " ideas come from.
>When the solenoid is working correctly it comes in with a serious clack
>and the armature will pull in even if it is just into the solenoid
>casing.
>
>I would bet that you need a new solenoid.
>MAKE SURE THAT YOU ADJUST IT CORRECTLY AFTER INSTALLATION.
>
>--
>Regards,
>
>Mike Salter
>http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
>Alan F Cross wrote:
>
>> On my BJ8...
>>
>> Overdrive used to come in occasionally, then rarely, now never.
>>
>> I've checked and sorted all three switches (dash, gearbox, throttle),
>> and put a lamp on the dash which proves I'm delivering 12v to the
>> solenoid.
>>
>> With the engine off I can hear the solenoid (no, not the relay) go
>> 'click' - but a pal's BJ8 goes with a good 'CLACK'. Am I right in
>> suspecting the switch *inside* the solenoid, the one that reduces the
>> actuating current to holding current? If the contacts had gone bad I'd
>> only ever deliver the holding current.
>>
>> Does this sound familiar, and what sort of a job is it to fix it?
>>
>> Any other ideas?
>>
>> T I A.
>> Alan F Cross
>> Wokingham, Berkshire, UK
>> H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny"
--
John Harper
From BGAHC at aol.com
Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 07:25:57 EDT
Subject: Thanks from the Healey Adventure Site
I just wanted to thank everyone for their kind comments regarding the new
Healey Adventure Site. Almost 2000 hits in the first five days!
The old Bluegrass Club Site was my first attempt at a web page. It had been
created in an old America On Line HTML editor that AOL stopped supporting
over a year ago. That left me locked out, unable to update the pages and the
site had grown so big it was confusing.
So I redid the site, changed the name, part technical and part taking my toys
and going elsewhere reasons, and now I have 40 times the file space and room
for unlimited expansion.
I would like to create a site that helps promote our marque and support the
owners/restorers of our cars. I also want it to be a fun site for those enjoy
Healeys and Healey Adventures. Many of the postings on this list are very
informative and well written. I can create a web page from an email for you
in about three minutes. If you would like to submit an article for
publication I would be happy to do it. If you would like to cut and paste
from a thread on a topic and provide a summation for future reference I would
welcome that also. Also I would welcome any bits of Healey artifacts such as
the Healey Christmas Art, Healey Babes, and unique Healey related photos that
you would like to share with the world. All I need is a scan in JPG or snail
mail me a copy and I can scan it.
Again Thanks. After publication on Monday my old 166mhz computer went up in
smoke (literally). This week has been spent rebuilding on a new 733 MHz. I
lost a ton of bookmarks and saved emails so if you have a link to add please
let me know. My final site "To Do List" is now stuck in a melted hard drive
and I'm sure I missed someone's request.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Visit my Healey Adventure site at www.jamesfwerner.com
From "rons" <arjayarjay at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sat, 09 Sep 2000 16:42:34 +0000
Subject: Thanks
I asked about the 'safety guage' and received about ten answers, every one
of them correct. Just goes to show, if you want to know something about an
Austin-Healey, this is the list to be on. Thanks again, one and all. Ron BN1.
From BGAHC at aol.com
Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 13:24:34 EDT
Subject: Brake Light Switch replacement
Someone on the list recommended replacing the brake light switch with one
from a VW. I think it was a Bug from 67 - 71 as I remember. Faster response
and lower cost was the reason given.
I was just asked about it and since the answer is permanently stored in my
melted hard drive can someone refresh my memory? I think a part number was
given also. Is it a direct swap or does it require an adapter?
Second Question that was asked - An old Healey Highlights listed a tech tip
for installing four way emergency flashers. Once again the old directory is
in my melted hard drive, does any one have one and could refer us to the
issue? The online directory from the old AHCUSA site is not up yet on the new
site.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Visit my Healey Adventure site at www.jamesfwerner.com
From "CATUDALJ" <CATUDALJ at email.msn.com>
Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 14:12:56 -0400
Subject: Re: Brake Light Switch replacement
On your 2d question, my index of HH says that the Mar 76 issue has an
article by j. Watson on 4 way flasher installation.
Joe
----- Original Message -----
From: <BGAHC@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2000 1:24 PM
Subject: Brake Light Switch replacement
>
> Someone on the list recommended replacing the brake light switch
with one
> from a VW. I think it was a Bug from 67 - 71 as I remember. Faster
response
> and lower cost was the reason given.
>
> I was just asked about it and since the answer is permanently stored
in my
> melted hard drive can someone refresh my memory? I think a part
number was
> given also. Is it a direct swap or does it require an adapter?
>
> Second Question that was asked - An old Healey Highlights listed a
tech tip
> for installing four way emergency flashers. Once again the old
directory is
> in my melted hard drive, does any one have one and could refer us to
the
> issue? The online directory from the old AHCUSA site is not up yet
on the new
> site.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Werner
> Louisville, KY
> Visit my Healey Adventure site at www.jamesfwerner.com
From LBCarNut <LBCarNut at carolina.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 15:17:55 -0400
Subject: Re: Brake Light Switch replacement
For the brake light switch
NAPA #SL-144 Pressure switch screw terminals.
NAPA #SL-147 Pressure switch spade terminals.
does not look exactly like original but fits.
Peter Samaroo
Charlotte NC
59 Bugeye
59 100-6
BGAHC@aol.com wrote:
>
> Someone on the list recommended replacing the brake light switch with one
> from a VW. I think it was a Bug from 67 - 71 as I remember. Faster response
> and lower cost was the reason given.
>
> I was just asked about it and since the answer is permanently stored in my
> melted hard drive can someone refresh my memory? I think a part number was
> given also. Is it a direct swap or does it require an adapter?
>
> Second Question that was asked - An old Healey Highlights listed a tech tip
> for installing four way emergency flashers. Once again the old directory is
> in my melted hard drive, does any one have one and could refer us to the
> issue? The online directory from the old AHCUSA site is not up yet on the new
> site.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Werner
> Louisville, KY
> Visit my Healey Adventure site at www.jamesfwerner.com
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 15:37:30 EDT
Subject: Re: Brake Light Switch replacement
In a message dated 9/10/2000 14:21:12 Central Daylight Time,
LBCarNut@carolina.rr.com writes:
<< For the brake light switch
NAPA #SL-144 Pressure switch screw terminals.
NAPA #SL-147 Pressure switch spade terminals.
does not look exactly like original but fits. >>
Peter,
Do you know if they have the British pipe thread or American? There is one
thread per inch differance.
Don
NTAHC
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 16:08:20 -0400
Subject: Fw: Side curtain rehab
Lee,
I have the same problem with my tri-carb, but I figured it was just me being
stupid. If you figure out how to get the rubber gasket installed I would
appreciate hearing the answer.
Terry
62 BT7 Tri-carb
>"Lee S. Mairs" wrote:
>
>> My PO promised me a new set of side curtains, but I've been trying to
rehab
>> one with new glass and new rubber gaskets to try and save him some bucks.
>> I'm having a lot of trouble figuring out how the new gasket is supposed
to
>> be installed. The rubber is shaped as if there were a groove in the
bottom
>> of the main groove to hold the gasket in place, but the frame doesn't
seem
>> to have a groove.
>>
>> Is there a magic trick to this, or is a special tool needed? My first
>> Healey tour is tomorrow (Shore to Shore 2000 with the Capital Area Austin
>> Healey Club), and I would like some protection is case the weather
guesser
>> is wrong.
>> Lee
>> '62 BT7 Tri-carb
>
From BGAHC at aol.com
Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 16:44:26 EDT
Subject: Re: Brake Light Switch replacement
CATUDALJ@email.msn.com writes:
<< On your 2nd question, my index of HH says that the Mar 76 issue has an
article by j. Watson on 4 way flasher installation. >>
Thanks!! I found it and scanned a copy. Made a web page while I was at it
and you can see that at
http://hometown.aol.com/bluegrassclub/jwha_4way_flashers.html.
It is not a poor quality scan. That is how primitive Healey Highlights was in
the 70's.
Anyone know if there is a hard copy index of the Tech Articles available?
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Visit my Healey Adventure site at www.jamesfwerner.com
From BGAHC at aol.com
Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 18:00:31 EDT
Subject: Re: Brake Light Switch replacement
In a message dated 9/10/00 3:39:23 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Drtrite@aol.com
writes:
<< NAPA #SL-144 Pressure switch screw terminals.
NAPA #SL-147 Pressure switch spade terminals.
does not look exactly like original but fits. >>
Peter,
Do you know if they have the British pipe thread or American? There is one
thread per inch difference >>
I would have assumed the VW version would be metric threads and would not
work, anyone tried that one?
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Visit my Healey Adventure site at www.jamesfwerner.com
From NPaul72464 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 19:10:36 EDT
Subject: Side Curtain Rehab
It's been awhile since I replaced the rubber, but I know it was made a lot
easier by soaping it.
Ned
1960 BN7
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 19:37:53 -0400
Subject: Park plug boots
Hi all,
I am looking for a set of champion waterproof spark plug covers champ #
WC187. Does any body have any resources or a set lying around ? They are
the right angle kind with a clamp attached over the boot on the wire end.
Thanks Carroll 64 BJ8
From "mterry" <mterry at bpsinet.com>
Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 18:39:58 -0500
Subject: Re: Side Curtain Rehab
silicone lubricant makes the job much easier...
----- Original Message -----
From: <NPaul72464@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2000 6:10 PM
Subject: Side Curtain Rehab
>
> It's been awhile since I replaced the rubber, but I know it was made a lot
> easier by soaping it.
>
> Ned
> 1960 BN7
From BillHUCK at aol.com
Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 19:49:26 EDT
Subject: Hot 100
A problem. 90° Minnesota Saturday. Gauge rising to 212° on BN1. Ignition
cutting out, probably coil overheating. Using stock fan & 180 thermostat.
Suggestions? Bill Huck, BJ8, BT7, BN1
From "P.M. Pollock" <pollpete at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 17:13:15 -0700
Subject: Re: Hot 100
OK Bill, I'll give it a shot.
>From Band-Aid to Major Surgery:
1. Turn on the heater (got me across the Nevada desert),
2. Check hoses for pinches or blockages (including internal swelling),
3. Test thermostat (remove & test in 180 degree water),
4. Check timing (best to use a strobe),
5. Upgrade fan (at this point the N. Texas Healey Club will recommend a
"Texas Cooler", probably good advice),
6. Clean and recore (or replace) radiator,
7. Rebuild engine, cleaning out the block and head water passages (my
number one cylinder had about 1/3 of the block wall area mounded with crud,
mostly remains of radiator sealants I'd stupidly used over the years),
8. Do as Austin and I did when he was brand spanking new- move to
California.
Now the real experts can chime in filling in the holes I've no doubt left.
Good luck,
Pete Pollock
BJ7
N. California
BillHUCK@aol.com wrote:
> A problem. 90° Minnesota Saturday. Gauge rising to 212° on BN1. Ignition
> cutting out, probably coil overheating. Using stock fan & 180 thermostat.
> Suggestions? Bill Huck, BJ8, BT7, BN1
From "Gordon Lawry." <lawryr at erols.com>
Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 19:48:48 -0500
Subject:
Just wondering if anyone has any advise about a 64 sprite that won't stay in
4th gear. I am acquiring the car this November and I don't know anything about
Austin Healeys. Thanks, Gordon
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 21:41:53 -0400
Subject: Re: Side Curtain Rehab
You might also try talcum powder. It works well on rubber parts generally.
Keith Pennell
----- Original Message -----
From: mterry <mterry@bpsinet.com>
To: <NPaul72464@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2000 7:39 PM
Subject: Re: Side Curtain Rehab
>
> silicone lubricant makes the job much easier...
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <NPaul72464@aol.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2000 6:10 PM
> Subject: Side Curtain Rehab
>
>
> >
> > It's been awhile since I replaced the rubber, but I know it was made a
lot
> > easier by soaping it.
> >
> > Ned
> > 1960 BN7
>
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 20:49:59 -0500
Subject: Re: Park plug boots
carroll-
i believe norman nock has these.
jerry wall
----- Original Message -----
From: "bjcap" <bjcap@frontiernet.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Park plug boots
Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 19:37:53 -0400
Hi all,
I am looking for a set of champion waterproof spark plug covers champ #
WC187. Does any body have any resources or a set lying around ? They are
the right angle kind with a clamp attached over the boot on the wire end.
Thanks Carroll 64 BJ8
From "jack_rosen" <jack_rosen at hotmail.com>
Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 22:28:31 -0400
Subject: Re: Hot 100
Bill & List,
Sometimes the lower rad hose will be 'sucked flat'
due to age and the internal spring 'deteriorating'
(rusting away).
Of course, this is while the pump is running at max,
like overheating at speed.
Can cause a rather insidious problem that's hard
to find.
Try to squeeze the lower hose shut, if you can flatten
it at all, replace it.
move the coil to the fenderwell temporairily to check
it out for the cutting out problem.
jack rosen
----- Original Message -----
From: "P.M. Pollock" <pollpete@ix.netcom.com>
To: <BillHUCK@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2000 8:13 PM
Subject: Re: Hot 100
OK Bill, I'll give it a shot.
>From Band-Aid to Major Surgery:
1. Turn on the heater (got me across the Nevada desert),
2. Check hoses for pinches or blockages (including internal swelling),
3. Test thermostat (remove & test in 180 degree water),
4. Check timing (best to use a strobe),
5. Upgrade fan (at this point the N. Texas Healey Club will recommend a
"Texas Cooler", probably good advice),
6. Clean and recore (or replace) radiator,
7. Rebuild engine, cleaning out the block and head water passages (my
number one cylinder had about 1/3 of the block wall area mounded with crud,
mostly remains of radiator sealants I'd stupidly used over the years),
8. Do as Austin and I did when he was brand spanking new- move to
California.
Now the real experts can chime in filling in the holes I've no doubt left.
Good luck,
Pete Pollock
BJ7
N. California
BillHUCK@aol.com wrote:
> A problem. 90° Minnesota Saturday. Gauge rising to 212° on BN1. Ignition
> cutting out, probably coil overheating. Using stock fan & 180 thermostat.
> Suggestions? Bill Huck, BJ8, BT7, BN1
From "Wayne Irons" <wayne at royal.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 23:29:56 -0400
Subject: Lighting problem solved. For now.
Well, continuing the saga of my bad turn signals and brake lights. I
decided to take a peek under the car to discover if there was a short in the
rearward harness. Despite the cotton covering being worn away, the plastic
coating on the wires is sound. I was actually hoping that would be it!
Especially since I tore the interior of the car apart to get at the wires
from the top instead of the bottom. Crawling under a car this short makes
me nervous. At least I now have an excuse to get the seat adjusters
unjammed and lubed.
So, I decided to poke around a bit under the bonnet with my tester, and when
I shoved the probe into the fuse block, CLICK! The signal started to blink.
It turns out that my conclusion from weeks ago was correct. The fuse block
is corroded and the current was not getting thru. A little buffing and it's
all better!
Wayne Irons
Stage Manager
Little Shop of Horrors
The Pennington Players, Inc
609-737-PLAY
From "Tim Moran" <timoran at ticnet.com>
Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 22:44:06 -0500
Subject: The Modified Austin Healey Registry
9-10-2000 @ 11:00 PM CDT
An open invitation to all Austin Healey enthusiasts.
For those of you who may have an interest in the "other side" of Healeying,
the Modified Healey Registry is re-activating eGroups.com, an Email message
system that we used earlier in the year.
To send an Email to the Modified Members group or to an individual, the
Email Address is
v8healeys@eGroups.com
The Internet web site address, for checking or viewing Email and pictures is
www.egroups.com/group/v8healeys.
eGgroups is and works similar to this list in that it is free and will
re-distribute sent Emails.
eGroups will store ALL messages in on-line, readily viewable, archives
sorted by calendar month. It will also allow using different sort criteria
to follow past message threads.
eGroups Email and files may be accessed from your office or from any
Internet connection, anywhere in the world. There is no need to wait until
you get home to see what the latest message thread is.
eGroups is different from this list service in that it will allow users to
freely customize their settings, for example whether to receive or not
receive Email. Now there is no need to let your inbox fill up while you are
on vacation, but the messages are still viewable to you.
One of the most beneficial differences however, is that eGroups will accept
and display pictures, sound files, and movie clips, either as message
attachments, or in accessible file folders, separate from the message base.
Since we just started re-using this service a week ago, message traffic is
low.
As always, you are invited to visit the Modified Healey Registry Web Site at
www.modifiedhealeys.austin1.com and view our member's cars. We have
pictures and articles of 85 cars posted on the web site now with many more
being added.
While there is a lot to be said for preserving the Austin Healey Marque
unchanged, I think that you will find that our members have made
modifications with class and good taste as well as making undeniable
improvements in performance and reliability.
While you may not agree with "screwing up" a perfectly good Healey, keep in
mind that many, probably most, of these cars were NOT "perfectly" good
Healeys when they were modified. Most were missing engines, other driveline
components, or major body parts.
MOST of them were snatched from the jaws of the crusher.
Look at Zora, car number 6, on the Modified Healey Registry Web Site
www.modifiedhealeys.austin1.com ) for example:
Who would have taken the time and spent the money to bring that crumpled
hulk back to a driveable, raceable, condition ?
Who would have had the ingenuity to put the radiator in the trunk for better
weight distribution, improved handling, and driver comfort ?
Who would regularly race, and win, against the latest computer aided
designed and manufactured performance cars on the road ?
Only someone who REALLY loves Healeys.
A lot of Richard's yuppie competitors in their $60,000 Vipers, Cobra Kits,
and Porsches, have a new-found respect for a 40 year old, $5,000, Austin
Healey. For many of them, a car that is older than they are.
Please stop by for a visit and a chat.
Tim Moran
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 04:34:55 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Lighting problem solved. For now.
Wayne
I smiled when I read your diagnosis.
Usually folks who buy Halogen bulbs from me blame me and my bulbs for
everything from slow flashers to failed turn signals and brakes lights - and I
suggest that they remove the corrosion at each socket - at the fuse box
contacts - check the flasher control box contacts, brake switch contacts, etc.
Accumulated corrosion increases resistance and produces all sorts of vexing
results.
Glad you solved it.
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
> Well, continuing the saga of my bad turn signals and brake lights. I
> decided to take a peek under the car to discover if there was a short in the
> rearward harness. Despite the cotton covering being worn away, the plastic
> coating on the wires is sound. I was actually hoping that would be it!
> Especially since I tore the interior of the car apart to get at the wires
> from the top instead of the bottom. Crawling under a car this short makes
> me nervous. At least I now have an excuse to get the seat adjusters
> unjammed and lubed.
>
> So, I decided to poke around a bit under the bonnet with my tester, and when
> I shoved the probe into the fuse block, CLICK! The signal started to blink.
> It turns out that my conclusion from weeks ago was correct. The fuse block
> is corroded and the current was not getting thru. A little buffing and it's
> all better!
>
>
>
> Wayne Irons
> Stage Manager
> Little Shop of Horrors
> The Pennington Players, Inc
> 609-737-PLAY
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From "David Brown" <david at cablelogic.com.au>
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 16:52:45 +0800
Subject: RE: Fuel Pump
To all that responded...Thankyou
I tried most of the suggestions but could not fault anything but I do think
that what Dick suggested was the problem - "air leak". I checked the fuel
line connections and made sure there were no air leaks. Started her up she
idled beautifully, applied load and still kept going finally put her out on
the road and she ran fine, am still going 100 miles later, so far so good.
100% improvement compared to previous.
Thanks again for the help.
Dave
-----Original Message-----
From: dickb@cheerful.com [mailto:dickb@cheerful.com]
Sent: Wednesday, 30 August 2000 3:01 PM
To: David Brown; austin healey list
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump
David
Fuel Pump is OK. Carbs are OK, although you might check the float levels
just to be sure. (If the tangs are bent so the float chambers only fill
partially, your description make some sense.
"Most likely your problem is an airleak between the pickup in the tank and
the pump."
Let the List know if this is a Fix.
DickB
From "Eyvind Larssen" <seel at online.no>
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 14:13:57 +0200
Subject: SV: quizz #5
Roland,
stalls in my mind, is similar to what happends to a propeller aircraft when it
getting to a too high altitude thus thinner air...it stalls... wount go
furter..... still runs though.
So the answer would be... yes it still runs.... and no...it wount rev. past
3000 rpms., and yes... it seems temperature related, and no, I cant find
ANYTHING wrong with the ignition - system. I have even changed allmost
EVERYTHING on the ignition-side.
Listers... I will go through all the motions mentioned in your replies. I will
get back to you all when I find out what couses the problem. It may take some
time though....
Regards
Eyvind Larssen 60 BT7
Subject: Re: quizz #5
I am still thinking about this. It would appear to be temperature,
not time-related, which rules out fuel flow problems, unless there is
something about your fuel pump getting overheated that causes it to
pump less efficiently when hot.
You say "It stalls ...." at these various speeds at the various
temperatures. Do you mean that it is unwilling to rev higher than
these speeds, or that at those engine speeds the engine begins to lose
power, misses, or otherwise ceases to function? "Stalls" to me means
that the engine stops, but that may not be what you intend to
describe, so I am asking. Fuel starvation wouldn't likely make your
engine stop at a specific rpm/temp. It would more likely be electric
or some other mechanical process.
-Roland
On Wed, 6 Sep 2000 14:52:11 +0200, you wrote:
:: Thing is.. when cold... it reaches 4000 rpms.. no prob.... when 160 F.. it
:stalls at 3000 rpms..... when 190 F.. it stalls at 2000-2500 rpms.
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 09:35:16 -0400
Subject: Re:
"Gordon Lawry." wrote:
> Just wondering if anyone has any advise about a 64 sprite that won't stay in
>4th gear. I am acquiring the car this November and I don't know anything
>about Austin Healeys. Thanks, Gordon
Hi Gordon,
I had a similar problem with my bugeye race car, which uses a close ratio rib
cage box, several years ago. This started after a gearbox rebuild and took a
while to find. As I recall the
following was the resolution.
The 2 main ball bearings on a ribcage box look almost identical however they
have different part numbers the front one is 2A3245 and the rear one is 22A465.
The rear bearing has an extension
of the inner race which, when installed, positions the 3rd motion shaft further
forward. If the less expensive and more readily front bearing is substituted
for the rear the sliding hub cannot
move far enough to fully engage the teeth of the 4th gear.
This problem does not apply to the smooth case box which uses the same bearing
both ends.
This may be your problem.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From Jim Rowan <jimrowan at uic.edu>
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 09:03:25 -0500
Subject: Re: Truck Safety - serious paranoia
Was at a Brit car show yesterday and volunteered to drive a friends Mini
home. I never turn down a chance to drive a Mini! Anyway, on the ride home
we were
convoying it in the slow lane, as we should be in 850 Minis, doing 60 mph.
In the lane to the left
we had a Shell tanker truck heavily tail-gating some sap gaping at our
convoy and behind
us was a line of about 50 military hummers. Thanks to the straight-cut
gearbox in the mini I was
driving I couldn't even hear the tanker or hummers. I dislike traveling on
expressways/tollways
because too often Brit car convoys become a rolling gapers delay to the
point I fear causing
an accident. It especially bad with the Mini's. We had a traveller, a
pickup, a saloon, and an
Jag XK140. People come flying up to us and then slam on the brakes to get a
look. Scary!
Cheers,
James
From Joseph Elmer <Joelmer at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 10:09:17 -0400
Subject: Re: SV: quizz #5
Eyvind: drive it up to operating temperature (when the dying at 3000 rpm
occurs). Take a length of vacuum hose (about 3') and stick one end in your
ear. With the engine at idle, probe around the intake manifold gasket, carb
mount, and any other place
air could be getting into the intake side after the carb jets. Rev the engine
to 3000 rpm and repeat the process to see if you can identify air leaking into
the system due to the metal heating. Another way to check for this problem
that I've heard but
have not tried is to rev the car to 3000 rpm, take a can of propane and spray
it selectively at places where air may be leaking into the system. If there is
an air leaking in the rev's will rise as the propane is sucked in. As I say, I
haven't tried this
so if you blow up the car or burn off your eyebrows, your on your own. Maybe
you can find a mechanic experienced in this technique rather than do it
yourself. I think the problem is due to some component not torqued correctly
permitting warping of the
metal at a connection. Joe Elmer
Eyvind Larssen wrote:
> Roland,
> stalls in my mind, is similar to what happends to a propeller aircraft when
>it getting to a too high altitude thus thinner air...it stalls... wount go
>furter..... still runs though.
> So the answer would be... yes it still runs.... and no...it wount rev. past
>3000 rpms., and yes... it seems temperature related, and no, I cant find
>ANYTHING wrong with the ignition - system. I have even changed allmost
>EVERYTHING on the ignition-side.
>
> Listers... I will go through all the motions mentioned in your replies. I
>will get back to you all when I find out what couses the problem. It may take
>some time though....
> Regards
> Eyvind Larssen 60 BT7
>
> Subject: Re: quizz #5
>
> I am still thinking about this. It would appear to be temperature,
> not time-related, which rules out fuel flow problems, unless there is
> something about your fuel pump getting overheated that causes it to
> pump less efficiently when hot.
>
> You say "It stalls ...." at these various speeds at the various
> temperatures. Do you mean that it is unwilling to rev higher than
> these speeds, or that at those engine speeds the engine begins to lose
> power, misses, or otherwise ceases to function? "Stalls" to me means
> that the engine stops, but that may not be what you intend to
> describe, so I am asking. Fuel starvation wouldn't likely make your
> engine stop at a specific rpm/temp. It would more likely be electric
> or some other mechanical process.
>
> -Roland
>
> On Wed, 6 Sep 2000 14:52:11 +0200, you wrote:
>
> :: Thing is.. when cold... it reaches 4000 rpms.. no prob.... when 160 F.. it
>stalls at 3000 rpms..... when 190 F.. it stalls at 2000-2500 rpms.
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 10:26:53 -0400
Subject: Re: Truck Safety - serious paranoia
>...People come flying up to us and then slam on the brakes to get a
>look. Scary!
Yeah, but that is the best part of owning a Healey!
Lee
'62 BT7 Tri-carb
From Jim Rowan <jimrowan at uic.edu>
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 09:35:37 -0500
Subject: Re: Truck Safety - serious paranoia
Remember this is in the state (Illinois) where our great Governor, former
Sec. of State, is in deep doodoo for his workers handing out CDL's like
they were
cracker jack prizes. A few dollars, a wink, a nod and congrats
you are a legal over the road driver.Seems about every week some former DMV
worker is sentenced in the "money for licenses" scandal.
The state is now in the process of re-testing tens of thousands of drivers
who obtained their licenses under Ryan's watch. It was known nationwide/
internationally that if you wanted a CDL go to Illinois, the land of Honest
Abe.
Wisconsin is even thinking of suing our state over this insanity.
These "drivers" have been responsible for some HORRIBLE
accidents, nationwide. They ARE still out there!
Cheers,
James
At 09:03 PM 09/08/2000 -0400, JustBrits@aol.com wrote:
>
>In a message dated 09/08/2000 7:48:45 PM Central Daylight Time,
>Editorgary@aol.com writes:
>
><< Now keep in mind that 1 out of every 4 of those trucks has faulty brakes,
> faulty signal lights, or load tie-downs that are not in good condition. >>
>
>Darn, Gary. Here in the Chi Market Area, we are "fortunate(?)" enough to
>have them babies that "lose" the "hold-down" pin (forget chain(s)) that keep
>the dump bed down on the trailer chassis.
>
>Last "correct" count I am aware of only had NINE beds raising from chassis'.
>
>One overpass CLOSED 'cause of "structual damage";
>FOUR overhead (as in across the ENTIRE interstate) Directional/Informational
>signs are no longer available for the "viewing public";
>One fatel accident;
>One "Tollway Booth Removed".
>
>Shoot, "everyone" knows them der 18 wheelers are "safe"!!!
>
>Cheers..............
>
> Ed
>
>PS: License Exams and Issuance thereof NOT withstanding!!
>PPS: Got an MG Lister going to Ind via Southern route from out by you.
>Wanted to go to Twin Cities from Ind. via Chi and I-294. FLAT out advised:
>
>>From Indy go to Champaign, IL; North to I-80; West to I-39; Then head
Noth to
>p/u I-90. Ya ain't "lived" (no pun intended!!) 'til you've drive the
>Borman in any LBC.
From Jim Rowan <jimrowan at uic.edu>
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 09:56:50 -0500
Subject: Re: Truck Safety - serious paranoia
On regular roads (25-45 mph) it's ok but on the expressways
where people are doing 80-90 on average
it's dangerous. If you're not doing 75 you're just
a rolling chicane round here. This is on the tollway
around O'Hare where the limit is 55 not 65.
Cheers,
James
At 10:26 AM 09/11/2000 -0400, you wrote:
>
>>...People come flying up to us and then slam on the brakes to get a
>>look. Scary!
>
>Yeah, but that is the best part of owning a Healey!
>Lee
>'62 BT7 Tri-carb
>
From hm.heim at t-online.de (Helga & Martin Heim)
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 17:39:55 +0200
Subject: Non Healey content - need help with distributor identification
Hi all !
might someone of you identify a 6 cyl. distributor marked DX6A 40235. Sounds
Lucas for me but can't find in the Holden catalogue.
The distributor is in a Alfa Romeo 6C a friend of mine has in his workshop.
So could anybody tell me if it is a Lucas, from which car and may be from
when (I thought I could see '51 an the body)
Any help is appreciated
Martin
Germany
From BillHUCK at aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 12:21:57 EDT
Subject: Speedometer/100
Anyone know how to remove the odometer adjust screw so that I can repair the
unit.
Bill Huck
From Martin Johnson <MJohnson at cfworks.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 09:52:06 -0700
Subject: RE: Truck Safety - serious paranoia
My .02 which is actually worth less than that:
I drive 140 miles a day, 70 miles each way to work on I-5 through Los
Angeles. My daily driver is a de-smogged '68 Fairlane fastback (very, very
retro '60's, baby), which has enough steel to make ten Daewoos. I figure if
I'm going to wear out a car in four years, why not one that can be ditched,
or rebuilt cheap? Plus, I don't give a darn if it gets a scratch.
Naturally, 'cause I don't care, nothing ever happens to it. I do like how
people avoid my car! I drive in the fast lane, and I stay away from those
guys. I think I'm being fair when I state that about 30% of the truckers
are jerks that drive VERY agressively, and the rest are curteous
professonals that keep to the right, let folks merge, and have the
appearance of driving safely. A further observation is that the unsafe
truckers usually are driving rigs that look like hell, company name in duct
tape or magic marker on the cab door, and other signs of pride in ownership.
I've heard that many that operate in the harbor area hauling containers from
the docks are Mexican registered trucks that have zero enforced safety
requirements. I tend to believe that because it's easy to believe it once
you try and share the highway with those rolling wrecks, who ignore the
speed limit. The safe truckers generally have clean trucks, and look to be
owner-operated long distance haulers. Maybe they drive nice because they
have something to lose?
Martin Johnson
-----Original Message-----
From: Editorgary@aol.com [mailto:Editorgary@aol.com]
Sent: Friday, September 08, 2000 5:46 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Truck Safety - serious paranoia
In a message dated 9/8/00 4:32:15 PM, JSoderling@aol.com writes:
<<
I'm sure you can add you own fun trucker situations.
John
100-Six Erika the Red >>
Now keep in mind that 1 out of every 4 of those trucks has faulty brakes,
faulty signal lights, or load tie-downs that are not in good condition. The
lead-in to the story on public television showed what happened to three cars
when a load of concrete pipe broke loose from a truck when the brakes locked
up and the tie-downs broke. NOT a pretty sight.
Definitely calls for some defensive driving, but I wouldn't want that darned
old government interfering in their rights to drive whatever the hell they
please in the pursuit of their livelihoods.
Safe driving, everyone.
From "jack_rosen" <jack_rosen at hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 16:42:28 -0400
Subject: Re: quizz #5
Eyvind & List
Valve lash too tight, causing valves not to seat at
higher temperature. Take compression readings when
hot to test.
Coil defective, heat problem, move to fenderwell temporarily.
Exhaust restriction, (I once found the 'blanked' piece from a muffler,
the 'slug' from the punchout for the tailpipe still inside) it would
block the output intermittently and cause this kind of 'limiting'.
Fuel restriction or 'sucking air'.
The 'manifold leaks' mentioned would only cause a lousy idle,
more than they would cause high speed problems and they
usually 'seat' better as the engine gets hotter and the parts
expand into contact better.(unless bolts are missing or loose).
jack rosen
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eyvind Larssen" <seel@online.no>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Roland Wilhelmy" <rwil@cts.com>
Sent: Monday, September 11, 2000 8:13 AM
Subject: SV: quizz #5
>
> Roland,
> stalls in my mind, is similar to what happends to a propeller aircraft
when it getting to a too high altitude thus thinner air...it stalls... wount
go furter..... still runs though.
> So the answer would be... yes it still runs.... and no...it wount rev.
past 3000 rpms., and yes... it seems temperature related, and no, I cant
find ANYTHING wrong with the ignition - system. I have even changed allmost
EVERYTHING on the ignition-side.
>
> Listers... I will go through all the motions mentioned in your replies. I
will get back to you all when I find out what couses the problem. It may
take some time though....
> Regards
> Eyvind Larssen 60 BT7
>
>
>
> Subject: Re: quizz #5
>
>
> I am still thinking about this. It would appear to be temperature,
> not time-related, which rules out fuel flow problems, unless there is
> something about your fuel pump getting overheated that causes it to
> pump less efficiently when hot.
>
> You say "It stalls ...." at these various speeds at the various
> temperatures. Do you mean that it is unwilling to rev higher than
> these speeds, or that at those engine speeds the engine begins to lose
> power, misses, or otherwise ceases to function? "Stalls" to me means
> that the engine stops, but that may not be what you intend to
> describe, so I am asking. Fuel starvation wouldn't likely make your
> engine stop at a specific rpm/temp. It would more likely be electric
> or some other mechanical process.
>
> -Roland
>
> On Wed, 6 Sep 2000 14:52:11 +0200, you wrote:
>
> :: Thing is.. when cold... it reaches 4000 rpms.. no prob.... when 160 F..
it stalls at 3000 rpms..... when 190 F.. it stalls at 2000-2500 rpms.
>
>
>
>
From "McNamara" <mcnamara at wcnet.org>
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 17:13:36 -0400
Subject: Bugeye color schemes
Hello,
Can anyone tell me the "official" interior/exterior color schemes available
for bugeyes. Or where I can find this information?
thanks
Dan
From "John Noblin" <jnoblin1 at my-deja.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 14:39:10 -0700
Subject: BJ8 Oil & Tire Question
A couple of quick questions:
1) What's the oil of choice for daily, or at least weekly, drivers in a hot
climate?
2) I just put new tires on my Healey and found one that I have not seen
mentioned in any of the recent tire threads. I got a Goodrich Touring TA in a
175/80/15 for $40 ea. from Tire Rack. There's a little rub at full lock, but
they look great and the spare fits in the trunk fully inflated. My only
concern: there's a lot of that sidewall flex induced wobble or shimmy or
whatever you call it. The old tires were 155SR15. Does everyone get this sway
with a taller sidewall?
Thanks,
John Noblin
BJ8
Jackson, Mississippi
--== Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ ==--
Before you buy.
From "Sam Marble" <samncyna at netzero.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 18:49:36 -0400
Subject: Re: Bugeye color schemes
Dan: The best reference is a book called Original Sprite and Midget
by Terry Horler published by Bay View Books (ISBN 1-870979-45-1) which
is still in production. You may also try contacting the Concours
Registry which has contacts identified in HEALEY MARQUE.
The trouble is that some color combinations were phased in and others
out during the production period so you need to know the production
timeframe for a particular car to be accurate if that's what you are
trying to do.
Sam AN5, AN6, AN8
----- Original Message -----
From: McNamara <mcnamara@wcnet.org>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 11, 2000 5:13 PM
Subject: Bugeye color schemes
>
> Hello,
> Can anyone tell me the "official" interior/exterior color schemes
available
> for bugeyes. Or where I can find this information?
> thanks
> Dan
>
____________NetZero Free Internet Access and Email_________
Download Now http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html
Request a CDROM 1-800-333-3633
___________________________________________________________
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 19:23:48 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: BJ8 Oil & Tire Question
John
1) - 20W-50 - modern equivalent of 30W30 specified in the manual
2) - I'm surprised that there is now a Goodrich Touring TA in 175 x 15 -
especially at only $40. I was under the impression that the only available 175
x 15 was a Michelin ZX at over $100.
Were you told that your Goodrich's are a newly introduced size or were they
some sortrt of old stock that Tire rack found for you?
The only tire cause of shimmy, wobble or shake would be due to tread
separation, belt separation or most likely - tire/wheel/hub inbalance.
Even more likely would be worn front end parts,, such as tie-rod ends; loose
front shock absorbers; slop in the idler arm bearing (see if it moves up and
down rather than side to side when you move the steering wheel from side to
side).
If the shocks are moving where tey are bolted to the mounting plates, Don't
Drive your car until you get it fixed properly, meaning rewelding of the cage
nuts or installation of welded plates under the stock mounting.
Were you driving your BJ8 on 590 x 15 Dunlops Roadspeeds - the ones that came
with the car?
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
> A couple of quick questions:
>
> 1) What's the oil of choice for daily, or at least weekly, drivers in a hot
>climate?
>
> 2) I just put new tires on my Healey and found one that I have not seen
>mentioned in any of the recent tire threads. I got a Goodrich Touring TA in a
>175/80/15 for $40 ea. from Tire Rack. There's a little rub at full lock, but
>they look great and the spare fits in the trunk fully inflated. My only
>concern: there's a lot of that sidewall flex induced wobble or shimmy or
>whatever you call it. The old tires were 155SR15. Does everyone get this
>sway with a taller sidewall?
>
> Thanks,
> John Noblin
> BJ8
> Jackson, Mississippi
>
>
> --== Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ ==--
> Before you buy.
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From "JISah102" <ah102 at home.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 19:31:12 -0400
Subject: Re: Bugeye color schemes
Dan: Much of the information can be found in Don Pikovnik's Austin-Healey
Color Guide. Coloramic Process Inc. Austinburg, OH 440-275-1199 or
donp@ncweb.com
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: McNamara <mcnamara@wcnet.org>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 11, 2000 5:13 PM
Subject: Bugeye color schemes
>
> Hello,
> Can anyone tell me the "official" interior/exterior color schemes
available
> for bugeyes. Or where I can find this information?
> thanks
> Dan
>
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 21:15:09 EDT
Subject: Re: BJ8 Oil & Tire Question
In a message dated 9/11/00 2:41:33 PM, jnoblin1@my-deja.com writes:
<<
1) What's the oil of choice for daily, or at least weekly, drivers in a hot
climate >>
I run 20w50 in California all year round.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From Charlie Baldwin <ewsinc at blazenet.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 21:25:12 -0400
Subject: Shore to Shore 2000
Hats off to Michael Oritt, Gary Palsgrove and the rest of the Capital
Area Austin Healey Club for their two day event this past weekend.
Thanks to all of you for your hospitality and for throwing a good party.
I'd like to challenge more of the Healey owners in the area, especially
those from northern Maryland, Pennsylvania, and Delaware to attend their
event next year. Also thanks to Inan and Bruce Phillips for having the
crab feast at their house in Saint Michaels.
Charlie Baldwin
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 21:23:20 EDT
Subject: Travel to Northwest Meet
For those of you traveling up from Oregon to the Northwest Meet, when do you
expect to drive back home? Genie and I will be driving the BN7 back, which
is now at Earl Kagna's, and if it's convenient, we would enjoy traveling back
south with other Healeys, at least as far as Portland.
Cheers
Gary
From "pfico" <ryoung at oro.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 18:27:32 -0700
Subject: Re: Brake Light Switch replacement
Jim -
I checked VW part no. 113-945-515H stop lamp switch against the Healey
switch and find the VW thread is different pitch (being metric) and very
slightly smaller in diameter, maybe .003 - .004", on the leading threads.
I'd say the VW switch would work in a pinch but only in an emergency.
My .02p worth.
Rich Young
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 20:40:18 -0700
Subject: Re: Travel to Northwest Meet
Suggestion for all coming north, fill up south and bring your own booze.
Also Gary, the "All British Run" to Whistler is the 23rd just in case you
happen to be hanging around, wink wink nod nod. Hopefully the weather will
be as nice as last year, looks like 6 or 7 Healeys will be going...Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 11, 2000 6:23 PM
Subject: Travel to Northwest Meet
>
> For those of you traveling up from Oregon to the Northwest Meet, when do
you
> expect to drive back home? Genie and I will be driving the BN7 back,
which
> is now at Earl Kagna's, and if it's convenient, we would enjoy traveling
back
> south with other Healeys, at least as far as Portland.
>
> Cheers
> Gary
>
From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 23:22:10 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Brake Light Switch Replacement
I took my non-functioning original 1960 brake light switch off and
flushed out all the black semi-solid goop. It has been working fine for
about 5 more years now.
Glad to share this money-saving tip as it helps get me in a frugal
Scottish mood to prance around in my kilt this Saturday at the Fresno
Highland Games.
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 22:34:45 +0100
Subject: Re: Auxillary Fuel Pump
There was a very similar arrangement made available as a Le Mans feature
for a 100. This came with a special 15 gallon tank. I am very fortunate
to have one of these and find it most useful. However if one wishes to
have both pumps available should one fail at the "pull of a switch" one
has to have at least 5 gallons left in the tank!
>
>The factory 100S set up had the pumps in "parallel" with a switch and a
>light to indicate which pump was active. I say "parallel" because each pump
>had its own line to the gas tank and one tube extended higher in the tank
>than the other. That way, one pump was the "reserve".
>I have also had pumps in series on other cars without problems. Each could
>suck or push through the other.
>Ken Freese
>100S
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Donald L. Yarber [mailto:dyarber@dynasty.net]
>Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2000 2:23 PM
>To: Healey List
>Subject: Auxillary Fuel Pump
>
>
>
>I've seen several messages that indicated some of you Healey owners have
>installed a "second" fuel pump in case one fails. I am in the process of
>doing just that, however I am perplexed. Do you install the second pump in
>series or parallel? That is, do you put one after the other or split the
>fuel line, run it to the second pump, then back to the fuel line?
>
>As a guess, I would think that the back pressure on the first pump from the
>carbs would shut it down and then the back pressure from that would shut the
>second one down, and when the demand returned both would start again. Is
>that correct? Please advise or I'll remain forever in the darkness of
>confusion.
>
>Don
>BN7
--
John Harper
From "kirk kvam" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2000 07:30:00 -0700
Subject: Re: Travel to Northwest Meet (CAUTION)
Neil suggests you bring your own booz.
Don't try to enter Canada with too much booz as they will deny you entry if
they think
you have too much and that you might be selling it. (Canadian Taxes)
Several years ago while traveling in the motothome with several people the
Canadian customes inspected my liquor locker. They thought I had too much
and wanted to confiscate it or pour it out. Needless to say, I did'nt visit
Canada.
Kirk Kvam
----- Original Message -----
From: "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg@telus.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 11, 2000 8:40 PM
Subject: Re: Travel to Northwest Meet
>
> Suggestion for all coming north, fill up south and bring your own booze.
> Also Gary, the "All British Run" to Whistler is the 23rd just in case you
> happen to be hanging around, wink wink nod nod. Hopefully the weather will
> be as nice as last year, looks like 6 or 7 Healeys will be going...Neil
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, September 11, 2000 6:23 PM
> Subject: Travel to Northwest Meet
>
>
> >
> > For those of you traveling up from Oregon to the Northwest Meet, when do
> you
> > expect to drive back home? Genie and I will be driving the BN7 back,
> which
> > is now at Earl Kagna's, and if it's convenient, we would enjoy traveling
> back
> > south with other Healeys, at least as far as Portland.
> >
> > Cheers
> > Gary
> >
>
From Martin Johnson <MJohnson at cfworks.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2000 07:40:47 -0700
Subject: RE: Brake Light Switch Replacement
Aye Laddie, an' do na' be prancin' too high in yer kilt if yer regimental.
An' some futher advice: If ye drive yer Healey tae the games, be sure an'
smooth out the backside o' yer kilt afore ye sit on yer leather seats, else
ye may toast the family jewels, an' wrinkle yer pleats. Neither condition
is very Scotsmanlike.
-----Original Message-----
From: pcowper@webtv.net [mailto:pcowper@webtv.net]
Sent: Monday, September 11, 2000 11:22 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Brake Light Switch Replacement
I took my non-functioning original 1960 brake light switch off and
flushed out all the black semi-solid goop. It has been working fine for
about 5 more years now.
Glad to share this money-saving tip as it helps get me in a frugal
Scottish mood to prance around in my kilt this Saturday at the Fresno
Highland Games.
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2000 08:08:42 -0700
Subject: Re: Travel to Northwest Meet (CAUTION)
That would be a 40 for each adult...Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "kirk kvam" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg@telus.net>; <Editorgary@aol.com>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2000 7:30 AM
Subject: Re: Travel to Northwest Meet (CAUTION)
> Neil suggests you bring your own booz.
>
> Don't try to enter Canada with too much booz as they will deny you entry
if
> they think
> you have too much and that you might be selling it. (Canadian Taxes)
> Several years ago while traveling in the motothome with several people the
> Canadian customes inspected my liquor locker. They thought I had too much
> and wanted to confiscate it or pour it out. Needless to say, I did'nt
visit
> Canada.
>
> Kirk Kvam
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg@telus.net>
> To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, September 11, 2000 8:40 PM
> Subject: Re: Travel to Northwest Meet
>
>
> >
> > Suggestion for all coming north, fill up south and bring your own booze.
> > Also Gary, the "All British Run" to Whistler is the 23rd just in case
you
> > happen to be hanging around, wink wink nod nod. Hopefully the weather
will
> > be as nice as last year, looks like 6 or 7 Healeys will be going...Neil
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
> > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Monday, September 11, 2000 6:23 PM
> > Subject: Travel to Northwest Meet
> >
> >
> > >
> > > For those of you traveling up from Oregon to the Northwest Meet, when
do
> > you
> > > expect to drive back home? Genie and I will be driving the BN7 back,
> > which
> > > is now at Earl Kagna's, and if it's convenient, we would enjoy
traveling
> > back
> > > south with other Healeys, at least as far as Portland.
> > >
> > > Cheers
> > > Gary
> > >
> >
>
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2000 12:40:38 EDT
Subject: Re: Travel to Northwest Meet (CAUTION)
In a message dated 9/12/2000 09:37:57 Central Daylight Time,
62BT7@prodigy.net writes:
<< They thought I had too much
and wanted to confiscate it or pour it out. Needless to say, I did'nt visit
Canada.
>>
Take it out of cabinet and drink it, drive on.
From bchapin at smartstuff.com (Brian Chapin)
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2000 10:49:49 -0700
Subject: Tonneau cover details
I need help understanding the tonneau cover for my BJ8. The first one I
bought came with no snaps fastened to the cover itself, a bag full of
hardware (snaps and studs) and an instruction sheet. As I looked over the
cover I noticed that it was not sewn well and sent it back.
The second cover came yesterday. It has some snaps installed in the cover
and some in bags. No studs are included. It seems to match my car pretty
well - but I have questions.
First about the cover, its design and how it works. There are two sets of
flaps sewn into the cover. The first set (two flaps) are about 8 - 10
inches long and run across cover. They each have two snaps installed.
There are no slits through the cover under the snaps. These seem to match
the studs installed below the rear seats and would appear to secure the
cover when passengers are sitting in the seats (keeping the cover taught).
Is this correct?
The second set of flaps are smaller and have a slit underneth through the
cover. The are near the door post on each side. Each has two snaps
intalled (different snaps - more traditional snaps - not the kind designed
to fit over a post). What are these flaps for? And where do they snap?
Just behind each door there are two tenax studs in the chrome panel. The
tonneau cover has no snap installed in this location. The cover in this
location has overlapping vinly panels - one that covers the top pf the
door and one that extends around from the rear shroud. They overlap for
about 3 - 4 inches when the top is up. Which gets the snap installed?
I have a bunch of other questions but they can wait (and may be resolved
if I get the above sorted out).
Many thanks
Brian
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2000 12:05:21 -0700
Subject: Re: Tonneau cover details
At 10:49 AM 9/12/00 , Brian Chapin wrote:
>I need help understanding the tonneau cover for my BJ8. The first one I
>bought came with no snaps fastened to the cover itself, a bag full of
>hardware (snaps and studs) and an instruction sheet. As I looked over the
>cover I noticed that it was not sewn well and sent it back.
>
>The second cover came yesterday. It has some snaps installed in the cover
>and some in bags. No studs are included. It seems to match my car pretty
>well - but I have questions.
>
>First about the cover, its design and how it works. There are two sets of
>flaps sewn into the cover. The first set (two flaps) are about 8 - 10
>inches long and run across cover. They each have two snaps installed.
>There are no slits through the cover under the snaps. These seem to match
>the studs installed below the rear seats and would appear to secure the
>cover when passengers are sitting in the seats (keeping the cover taught).
>Is this correct?
Correct.
>The second set of flaps are smaller and have a slit underneth through the
>cover. The are near the door post on each side. Each has two snaps
>intalled (different snaps - more traditional snaps - not the kind designed
>to fit over a post). What are these flaps for? And where do they snap?
These are to allow the seat belts to come through when you are driving with
the tonneau on the car. There should be a slot under the flap where the
belt runs through. The snaps hold the flap down when you aren't using the hole.
>Just behind each door there are two tenax studs in the chrome panel. The
>tonneau cover has no snap installed in this location. The cover in this
>location has overlapping vinly panels - one that covers the top pf the
>door and one that extends around from the rear shroud. They overlap for
>about 3 - 4 inches when the top is up. Which gets the snap installed?
My original tonneau is fitted this way: The flap that goes over the door
edge extends rearward and has an enlarged circular reinforcing grommet.
This fits OVER the circumference of the tenax hex head. Then, the rear flap
is pulled over this and has the standard tenax female snap, like those used
on the rear.
Let me know if you want some digi pix, I can send some.
>I have a bunch of other questions but they can wait (and may be resolved
>if I get the above sorted out).
>
>Many thanks
>
>Brian
>
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2000 15:26:53 -0400
Subject: Re: Tonneau cover details
Brian Chapin wrote:
> I need help understanding the tonneau cover for my BJ8. The first one I
> bought came with no snaps fastened to the cover itself, a bag full of
> hardware (snaps and studs) and an instruction sheet. As I looked over the
> cover I noticed that it was not sewn well and sent it back.
>
> The second cover came yesterday. It has some snaps installed in the cover
> and some in bags. No studs are included. It seems to match my car pretty
> well - but I have questions.
>
> First about the cover, its design and how it works. There are two sets of
> flaps sewn into the cover. The first set (two flaps) are about 8 - 10
> inches long and run across cover. They each have two snaps installed.
> There are no slits through the cover under the snaps. These seem to match
> the studs installed below the rear seats and would appear to secure the
> cover when passengers are sitting in the seats (keeping the cover taught).
> Is this correct?
>
> The second set of flaps are smaller and have a slit underneth through the
> cover. The are near the door post on each side. Each has two snaps
> intalled (different snaps - more traditional snaps - not the kind designed
> to fit over a post). What are these flaps for? And where do they snap?
>
> Just behind each door there are two tenax studs in the chrome panel. The
> tonneau cover has no snap installed in this location. The cover in this
> location has overlapping vinly panels - one that covers the top pf the
> door and one that extends around from the rear shroud. They overlap for
> about 3 - 4 inches when the top is up. Which gets the snap installed?
>
> I have a bunch of other questions but they can wait (and may be resolved
> if I get the above sorted out).
>
> Many thanks
>
> Brian
Hi Brian,
The answer to your first question is yes.
The second set of flaps with slots I do not recall. Sounds like that tonneau
has seat belt holes for when the tonneau is domed down to the heel panel.
As I recall the overlapping flaps at the back of the door both go onto the
tenax post just rear of the door. The section that comes from the door has a
large eyelet which goes over the post, then the flap from the rear has a tenax
fastener which snaps onto the post.. The idea is that you unlatch the eyelet
when you want to use the car with the rear section still in place this allows
you to open and close the door.
I think this is all correct however I am relying on my somewhat questionable
memory as my BJ8 is away on the set of a TV show called "Anything I Can Do"
and won't be back for a few months, so if someone spies and error feel
free....
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2000 12:53:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: RE: Wearing the kilt in the Healey
--WebTV-Mail-23665-2523
Aye . . . but I dunno if the Healey sha be my steed. Mon Porsche 911
under-dash air conditioning vents be aimed right proudly when wearing
the kilt.
Peter Macintosh Cowper
(1960 BT7, 1974 911S)
--WebTV-Mail-23665-2523
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Message-ID: <71B3BEAEDE83D2119DA10004ACAE76411E0D20@EXCHANGE>
From: Martin Johnson <MJohnson@cfworks.com>
To: "'pcowper@webtv.net'" <pcowper@webtv.net>, healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Brake Light Switch Replacement
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2000 07:40:47 -0700
MIME-Version: 1.0
X-Mailer: Internet Mail Service (5.5.2650.21)
Aye Laddie, an' do na' be prancin' too high in yer kilt if yer regimental.
An' some futher advice: If ye drive yer Healey tae the games, be sure an'
smooth out the backside o' yer kilt afore ye sit on yer leather seats, else
ye may toast the family jewels, an' wrinkle yer pleats. Neither condition
is very Scotsmanlike.
-----Original Message-----
From: pcowper@webtv.net [mailto:pcowper@webtv.net]
Sent: Monday, September 11, 2000 11:22 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Brake Light Switch Replacement
I took my non-functioning original 1960 brake light switch off and
flushed out all the black semi-solid goop. It has been working fine for
about 5 more years now.
Glad to share this money-saving tip as it helps get me in a frugal
Scottish mood to prance around in my kilt this Saturday at the Fresno
Highland Games.
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
--WebTV-Mail-23665-2523--
From Ed Santoro <esantoro at drbc.state.nj.us>
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2000 16:13:37 -0700
Subject: Re: Tonneau cover details
Brian: The first set of flaps running across the cover are meant to attaché to
the
tenax connectors at the bottom of the rear seats to taught the cover with
the passenger seats exposed. The two smaller flaps over openings in the
cover are to provide access for over-the-shoulder straps that are part of a
3 point seat belt system. The side flaps covering the doors when the
tonneau is fully in place extend under the side flaps that surround the rear
of the cover and require grommets. These grommets are placed over the tenax
stud on the side of the shroud behind the door and are held in place by the
tenax connector anchored to the back flap.
I hope this helps, EDS
Bill Katz wrote:
> At 10:49 AM 9/12/00 , Brian Chapin wrote:
>
> >I need help understanding the tonneau cover for my BJ8. The first one I
> >bought came with no snaps fastened to the cover itself, a bag full of
> >hardware (snaps and studs) and an instruction sheet. As I looked over the
> >cover I noticed that it was not sewn well and sent it back.
> >
> >The second cover came yesterday. It has some snaps installed in the cover
> >and some in bags. No studs are included. It seems to match my car pretty
> >well - but I have questions.
> >
> >First about the cover, its design and how it works. There are two sets of
> >flaps sewn into the cover. The first set (two flaps) are about 8 - 10
> >inches long and run across cover. They each have two snaps installed.
> >There are no slits through the cover under the snaps. These seem to match
> >the studs installed below the rear seats and would appear to secure the
> >cover when passengers are sitting in the seats (keeping the cover taught).
> >Is this correct?
>
> Correct.
>
> >The second set of flaps are smaller and have a slit underneth through the
> >cover. The are near the door post on each side. Each has two snaps
> >intalled (different snaps - more traditional snaps - not the kind designed
> >to fit over a post). What are these flaps for? And where do they snap?
>
> These are to allow the seat belts to come through when you are driving with
> the tonneau on the car. There should be a slot under the flap where the
> belt runs through. The snaps hold the flap down when you aren't using the
>hole.
>
> >Just behind each door there are two tenax studs in the chrome panel. The
> >tonneau cover has no snap installed in this location. The cover in this
> >location has overlapping vinly panels - one that covers the top pf the
> >door and one that extends around from the rear shroud. They overlap for
> >about 3 - 4 inches when the top is up. Which gets the snap installed?
>
> My original tonneau is fitted this way: The flap that goes over the door
> edge extends rearward and has an enlarged circular reinforcing grommet.
> This fits OVER the circumference of the tenax hex head. Then, the rear flap
> is pulled over this and has the standard tenax female snap, like those used
> on the rear.
>
> Let me know if you want some digi pix, I can send some.
>
> >I have a bunch of other questions but they can wait (and may be resolved
> >if I get the above sorted out).
> >
> >Many thanks
> >
> >Brian
> >
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2000 16:35:59 EDT
Subject: The Car's the Star
In a message dated 9/12/00 12:26:50 PM, magicare@home.com writes:
<< I think this is all correct however I am relying on my somewhat
questionable
memory as my BJ8 is away on the set of a TV show called "Anything I Can Do"
and won't be back for a few months, so if someone spies and error feel
free.... >>
Ohhh -- tell us the story -- is your car going to be a TV star?
Did anyone ever figure out who belongs to the Blue/White BJ 8(?) on the Wells
Fargo Commercial?
From BGAHC at aol.com
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2000 16:36:22 EDT
Subject: Need someone in St. Louis
Hi!
Need someone knowledgeable in St. Louis who can look at a Healey for someone
from Canada and provide an evaluation before he makes the journey to look at
it.
Sorry to bother the whole list but when my old computer died recently I lost
all my email addresses. Never thought about backing them up, I will from now
on.
I know McElwee and Lore are on the list, can someone help him out? Please
contact me and I will forward.
Since I have no address book information if I ever exchanged emails with you
send me a blank email so I can paste in the address and start rebuilding the
information.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Visit my Healey Adventure site at www.jamesfwerner.com
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2000 17:15:50 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: BJ8 Oil & Tire Question
John
re the Goodrich tires ----I learn something new every day.
re your shake rattle and roll ----it sounds to me like worn tie-rod ends or the
moving parts in the vertical link assembly - maybe even looseness of the front
wheel bearings, i.e. the castle nut is not the proper pre-load distance.
Did you have this area apart? Did you replace the shims and/or adjust the
castle nuts per the book, i.e. tighten to drag point and then back off one flat
before inserting the cotter key - OR did you have someone else replace the
front wheel bearings - if so recheck them yourself. I also am suspect of your
idler arm - if it is has a worn bearing surface it will allow a lot of wheel
movement from side to side while the steering wheel remains in place.
DickB
---- you wrote:
> Dick,
> Thanks for your reply.
>
> The tires did not appear to be a closeout or new model. I spoke with a guy
>named Martin at the Tire Rack who is a Healey owner. I had all the sizes,
>heights and widths from the Bluegrass Healey Tire Guide. 175 80 15 appeared
>to be a widely used size, so he checked the computer and found these. They
>were not in stock at the time but I had them in about 10 days, so they must
>not have been hard to get. 5 tires, delivered, for $245! I get a slight rub
>at full lock, but I understand that is common. I could have gone smaller, but
>these look great in the fenders.
>
> Regarding my handling question, how do I determine where the problem is? I
>don't think it is belt separation in new tires and they balanced fine, so I
>don't think it is the wheel.
>
> To clarify the situation, it only occurs when I wiggle the steering wheel. I
>know what you're thinking, but driver-induced shimmy is not the answer I'm
>looking for. I'm just comparing it to how it felt with the old tires, 155 SR
>15 ZXs (old). When I turn the wheel back and forth at most any speed I get
>this "swinging back and forth" feeling like there is a lot of flex in the
>sidewalls. Shock bolts are tight. I checked them while the wheels were off.
>
> Any other suggestions, or is this normal with a tire that is a couple of
>inches taller?
>
> Thanks,
> John Noblin
> 65 BJ8
> Jackson, MS
>
> On Mon, 11 Sep 2000 19:23:48 dickb wrote:
> >John
> >
> >1) - 20W-50 - modern equivalent of 30W30 specified in the manual
> >
> >2) - I'm surprised that there is now a Goodrich Touring TA in 175 x 15 -
>especially at only $40. I was under the impression that the only available
>175 x 15 was a Michelin ZX at over $100.
> >
> >Were you told that your Goodrich's are a newly introduced size or were they
>some sortrt of old stock that Tire rack found for you?
> >
> >The only tire cause of shimmy, wobble or shake would be due to tread
>separation, belt separation or most likely - tire/wheel/hub inbalance.
> >
> >Even more likely would be worn front end parts,, such as tie-rod ends; loose
>front shock absorbers; slop in the idler arm bearing (see if it moves up and
>down rather than side to side when you move the steering wheel from side to
>side).
> >
> >If the shocks are moving where tey are bolted to the mounting plates, Don't
>Drive your car until you get it fixed properly, meaning rewelding of the cage
>nuts or installation of welded plates under the stock mounting.
> >
> >Were you driving your BJ8 on 590 x 15 Dunlops Roadspeeds - the ones that
>came with the car?
> >
> >DickB
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ---- you wrote:
> >>
> >> A couple of quick questions:
> >>
> >> 1) What's the oil of choice for daily, or at least weekly, drivers in a
>hot climate?
> >>
> >> 2) I just put new tires on my Healey and found one that I have not seen
>mentioned in any of the recent tire threads. I got a Goodrich Touring TA in a
>175/80/15 for $40 ea. from Tire Rack. There's a little rub at full lock, but
>they look great and the spare fits in the trunk fully inflated. My only
>concern: there's a lot of that sidewall flex induced wobble or shimmy or
>whatever you call it. The old tires were 155SR15. Does everyone get this
>sway with a taller sidewall?
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >> John Noblin
> >> BJ8
> >> Jackson, Mississippi
> >>
> >>
> >> --== Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ ==--
> >> Before you buy.
> >>
> >
> >
> >----------------------------------------------------------------
> >Get your free email from AltaVista at http://altavista.iname.com
> >
>
>
> --== Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ ==--
> Before you buy.
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2000 17:33:25 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: BJ8 Oil & Tire Question
John
Further to my earlier comments -
Get out ofyour mind that this is a tire related problem (other than defective
tires of severe inbalance)
The height difference between 175/80x15 and 155SR15 is only TWO TENTHS of an
Inch times 80% or 16/100 of an inch (.16") - NOT a matter of inchES.
DickB
---- you wrote:
> Dick,
> Thanks for your reply.
>
> The tires did not appear to be a closeout or new model. I spoke with a guy
>named Martin at the Tire Rack who is a Healey owner. I had all the sizes,
>heights and widths from the Bluegrass Healey Tire Guide. 175 80 15 appeared
>to be a widely used size, so he checked the computer and found these. They
>were not in stock at the time but I had them in about 10 days, so they must
>not have been hard to get. 5 tires, delivered, for $245! I get a slight rub
>at full lock, but I understand that is common. I could have gone smaller, but
>these look great in the fenders.
>
> Regarding my handling question, how do I determine where the problem is? I
>don't think it is belt separation in new tires and they balanced fine, so I
>don't think it is the wheel.
>
> To clarify the situation, it only occurs when I wiggle the steering wheel. I
>know what you're thinking, but driver-induced shimmy is not the answer I'm
>looking for. I'm just comparing it to how it felt with the old tires, 155 SR
>15 ZXs (old). When I turn the wheel back and forth at most any speed I get
>this "swinging back and forth" feeling like there is a lot of flex in the
>sidewalls. Shock bolts are tight. I checked them while the wheels were off.
>
> Any other suggestions, or is this normal with a tire that is a couple of
>inches taller?
>
> Thanks,
> John Noblin
> 65 BJ8
> Jackson, MS
>
> On Mon, 11 Sep 2000 19:23:48 dickb wrote:
> >John
> >
> >1) - 20W-50 - modern equivalent of 30W30 specified in the manual
> >
> >2) - I'm surprised that there is now a Goodrich Touring TA in 175 x 15 -
>especially at only $40. I was under the impression that the only available
>175 x 15 was a Michelin ZX at over $100.
> >
> >Were you told that your Goodrich's are a newly introduced size or were they
>some sortrt of old stock that Tire rack found for you?
> >
> >The only tire cause of shimmy, wobble or shake would be due to tread
>separation, belt separation or most likely - tire/wheel/hub inbalance.
> >
> >Even more likely would be worn front end parts,, such as tie-rod ends; loose
>front shock absorbers; slop in the idler arm bearing (see if it moves up and
>down rather than side to side when you move the steering wheel from side to
>side).
> >
> >If the shocks are moving where tey are bolted to the mounting plates, Don't
>Drive your car until you get it fixed properly, meaning rewelding of the cage
>nuts or installation of welded plates under the stock mounting.
> >
> >Were you driving your BJ8 on 590 x 15 Dunlops Roadspeeds - the ones that
>came with the car?
> >
> >DickB
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ---- you wrote:
> >>
> >> A couple of quick questions:
> >>
> >> 1) What's the oil of choice for daily, or at least weekly, drivers in a
>hot climate?
> >>
> >> 2) I just put new tires on my Healey and found one that I have not seen
>mentioned in any of the recent tire threads. I got a Goodrich Touring TA in a
>175/80/15 for $40 ea. from Tire Rack. There's a little rub at full lock, but
>they look great and the spare fits in the trunk fully inflated. My only
>concern: there's a lot of that sidewall flex induced wobble or shimmy or
>whatever you call it. The old tires were 155SR15. Does everyone get this
>sway with a taller sidewall?
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >> John Noblin
> >> BJ8
> >> Jackson, Mississippi
> >>
> >>
> >> --== Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ ==--
> >> Before you buy.
> >>
> >
> >
> >----------------------------------------------------------------
> >Get your free email from AltaVista at http://altavista.iname.com
> >
>
>
> --== Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ ==--
> Before you buy.
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2000 17:54:26 EDT
Subject: Re: BJ8 Oil & Tire Question (sidewall flex)
John,
Sidewall flex is the phenomena that you are experiencing. Don't let anyone
tell you otherwise.
Tires with taller sidewalls, or slower speed ratings (particularly "touring"
grade tires) will have a pronounced sidewall flex that a good driver can
feel. When you wiggle the wheel the car will definitely sway or
twist-whatever you want to call it. I know the feeling well.
The difference when I changed my 195/60's with my 165 SR's was very apparent.
It is not a tire "problem" just a characteristic of the design of the tires.
You may sort of "get used to" the amount of sidewall flex, but you will never
be able to forget it. You will seek out Z rated tires to get less flex, or
even better, lower profile. An aspect ratio of 80 is really tall and
definitely going to give you a lot of flex.
Rick
San Diego
In a message dated 9/12/00 14:36:07, dickb@cheerful.com writes:
<<
John
Further to my earlier comments -
Get out ofyour mind that this is a tire related problem (other than defective
tires of severe inbalance)
The height difference between 175/80x15 and 155SR15 is only TWO TENTHS of an
Inch times 80% or 16/100 of an inch (.16") - NOT a matter of inchES.
DickB
---- you wrote:
> Dick,
> Thanks for your reply.
>
> The tires did not appear to be a closeout or new model. I spoke with a guy
named Martin at the Tire Rack who is a Healey owner. I had all the sizes,
heights and widths from the Bluegrass Healey Tire Guide. 175 80 15 appeared
to be a widely used size, so he checked the computer and found these. They
were not in stock at the time but I had them in about 10 days, so they must
not have been hard to get. 5 tires, delivered, for $245! I get a slight rub
at full lock, but I understand that is common. I could have gone smaller,
but these look great in the fenders.
>
> Regarding my handling question, how do I determine where the problem is? I
don't think it is belt separation in new tires and they balanced fine, so I
don't think it is the wheel.
>
> To clarify the situation, it only occurs when I wiggle the steering wheel.
I know what you're thinking, but driver-induced shimmy is not the answer I'm
looking for. I'm just comparing it to how it felt with the old tires, 155 SR
15 ZXs (old). When I turn the wheel back and forth at most any speed I get
this "swinging back and forth" feeling like there is a lot of flex in the
sidewalls. Shock bolts are tight. I checked them while the wheels were off.
>
> Any other suggestions, or is this normal with a tire that is a couple of
inches taller?
>
> Thanks,
> John Noblin
> 65 BJ8
> Jackson, MS
>
> On Mon, 11 Sep 2000 19:23:48 dickb wrote:
> >John
> >
> >1) - 20W-50 - modern equivalent of 30W30 specified in the manual
> >
> >2) - I'm surprised that there is now a Goodrich Touring TA in 175 x 15 -
especially at only $40. I was under the impression that the only available
175 x 15 was a Michelin ZX at over $100.
> >
> >Were you told that your Goodrich's are a newly introduced size or were
they some sortrt of old stock that Tire rack found for you?
> >
> >The only tire cause of shimmy, wobble or shake would be due to tread
separation, belt separation or most likely - tire/wheel/hub inbalance.
> >
> >Even more likely would be worn front end parts,, such as tie-rod ends;
loose front shock absorbers; slop in the idler arm bearing (see if it moves
up and down rather than side to side when you move the steering wheel from
side to side).
> >
> >If the shocks are moving where tey are bolted to the mounting plates,
Don't Drive your car until you get it fixed properly, meaning rewelding of
the cage nuts or installation of welded plates under the stock mounting.
> >
> >Were you driving your BJ8 on 590 x 15 Dunlops Roadspeeds - the ones that
came with the car?
> >
> >DickB
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ---- you wrote:
> >>
> >> A couple of quick questions:
> >>
> >> 1) What's the oil of choice for daily, or at least weekly, drivers in a
hot climate?
> >>
> >> 2) I just put new tires on my Healey and found one that I have not seen
mentioned in any of the recent tire threads. I got a Goodrich Touring TA in
a 175/80/15 for $40 ea. from Tire Rack. There's a little rub at full lock,
but they look great and the spare fits in the trunk fully inflated. My only
concern: there's a lot of that sidewall flex induced wobble or shimmy or
whatever you call it. The old tires were 155SR15. Does everyone get this
sway with a taller sidewall?
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >> John Noblin
> >> BJ8
> >> Jackson, Mississippi
> >>
> >>
> >> --== Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ ==--
> >> Before you buy.
> >>
> >
> >
> >----------------------------------------------------------------
> >Get your free email from AltaVista at http://altavista.iname.com
> >
>
>
> --== Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ ==--
> Before you buy.
>
>>
From "JISah102" <ah102 at home.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2000 18:12:03 -0400
Subject: Re: BJ8 Oil & Tire Question
My Tire reference (eurotire) indicates 175R15 diameter is 25.98", and 155R15
diameter is 24.80, The difference being 1.18" which results in ~0.60" ride
height. It's not a couple of inches, but seems to me it might be
significant . Can anyone substantiate my numbers?
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: <dickb@cheerful.com>
> The height difference between 175/80x15 and 155SR15 is only TWO TENTHS of
an Inch times 80% or 16/100 of an inch (.16") - NOT a matter of inchES.
>
> DickB
>
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2000 18:57:49 EDT
Subject: Re: BJ8 Oil & Tire Question
While your numbers are calculated well, the tire height is only a part of the
equation. The design of the tire and the hardness of the compound also
contribute to the amount of sidewall flex.
Different designs are indicated by the designation of the tire as a passenger
tire, touring, high performance, etc. Tires with higher speed ratings should
also have stiffer sidewalls.
I have changed tire brands with other cars and found greatly differing
sidewall flex. The last most drastic difference was on my BMW 325is where I
went with a plus one conversion (195/14/65 to 205/15/45) using BF Goodrich
touring T/A tires and was really bothered by the horrible sidewall flex and
"shimmy" or "twist", and that was a shorter sidewall!
I'm now driving that car with Pirelli P600's and the sidewalls are much
stiffer giving great lateral stability.
Rick
San Diego
In a message dated 9/12/00 15:17:38, ah102@home.com writes:
<<
My Tire reference (eurotire) indicates 175R15 diameter is 25.98", and 155R15
diameter is 24.80, The difference being 1.18" which results in ~0.60" ride
height. It's not a couple of inches, but seems to me it might be
significant . Can anyone substantiate my numbers?
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: <dickb@cheerful.com>
> The height difference between 175/80x15 and 155SR15 is only TWO TENTHS of
an Inch times 80% or 16/100 of an inch (.16") - NOT a matter of inchES.
>
> DickB
>
>>
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2000 19:10:29 EDT
Subject: Re: BJ8 Oil & Tire Question
Well, my tires have air in them and I will be using Castrol 20-50 for a trip
out to the Southeastern Classic. Round trip about 2900 miles. I'll give an in
depth report on tires and oil when I return.
Until then I'll just enjoy driving.
Don
NTAHC
Tri Healey meet two days after return will log another 1000 miles.
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2000 20:43:50 EDT
Subject: AHCA Mileage Award
In a message dated 9/12/00 4:12:47 PM, Drtrite@aol.com writes:
<< Round trip about 2900 miles. I'll give an in
depth report on tires and oil when I return.
Until then I'll just enjoy driving.
Don
NTAHC
Tri Healey meet two days after return will log another 1000 miles. >>
Sounds like another vote for revising/supplementing the ACHA mileage award to
take into account annual mileage as well as just that for a single round trip.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From MBran89793 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2000 20:59:54 EDT
Subject: Re: Tonneau cover details
In a message dated 9/12/00 4:16:00 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
esantoro@drbc.state.nj.us writes:
<< The first set of flaps running across the cover are meant to attaché to the
tenax connectors at the bottom of the rear seats to taught the cover with
the passenger seats exposed. >>
Hi Ed-
I think if you will check the fasteners and studs should be the
"Lift-the-Dot" type, not Tenax in this particular application.
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
President & Delegate of Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club
Concours Committee Chairman- Judges & Judging
AHCA Liaison for Concours
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2000 20:31:07 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8 Oil & Tire Question
YOU GO LENNIE !!
----- Original Message -----
From: Drtrite@aol.com
To: ah102@home.com, dickb@cheerful.com, jnoblin1@my-deja.com,
healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: BJ8 Oil & Tire Question
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2000 19:10:29 EDT
Well, my tires have air in them and I will be using Castrol 20-50 for a trip
out to the Southeastern Classic. Round trip about 2900 miles. I'll give an in
depth report on tires and oil when I return.
Until then I'll just enjoy driving.
Don
NTAHC
Tri Healey meet two days after return will log another 1000 miles.
From LBCarNut <LBCarNut at carolina.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2000 22:07:06 -0400
Subject: Brake light switch
Don,
It looks like the NAPA SL-144 brake light switch thread is 27 TPI, .3
inches long and .4 inches wide. I hope to see you at SouthEastern. I
will be arriving there on Monday 18th, when are you planning on getting
there? My 100-6 is not ready so I will have the green Bugeye.
Peter Samaroo
CAHC
Drtrite@aol.com wrote:
>
> Well, my tires have air in them and I will be using Castrol 20-50 for a trip
> out to the Southeastern Classic. Round trip about 2900 miles. I'll give an in
> depth report on tires and oil when I return.
>
> Until then I'll just enjoy driving.
>
> Don
> NTAHC
> Tri Healey meet two days after return will log another 1000 miles.
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2000 22:32:48 EDT
Subject: Re: Brake light switch
In a message dated 09/12/2000 9:12:56 PM Central Daylight Time,
LBCarNut@carolina.rr.com writes:
<< 27 TPI, >>
Let's make SURE That "socket" gets totallt "fu*ked" up. Anybody check the
THREAD "PITCH", nah!!
Yep, it will go in. What it does on the way OUT??
Oh well, as Paul Harvey says:
"...and now you know the REST of the story...!".
Ed
PS: BTW, Peter, "IF" your cars is as pictured and related, ME, NO freaking
way.
'Course, being an "expert" please go forward and save a "few" dollars
(er, should that be
'pence'??).
From Robert Dobrowski <rsdslp at juno.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2000 20:27:48 -0700
Subject: Re: BJ8 Oil & Tire Question
How about .63 inches on the radius
175 - 155 =20 mm
20 mm / 25.4 mm/in * .8 = .63 in
On Tue, 12 Sep 2000 17:33:25 -0400 (EDT) dickb@cheerful.com writes:
>
> John
>
> Further to my earlier comments -
>
> Get out ofyour mind that this is a tire related problem (other than
> defective tires of severe inbalance)
>
> The height difference between 175/80x15 and 155SR15 is only TWO
> TENTHS of an Inch times 80% or 16/100 of an inch (.16") - NOT a
> matter of inchES.
>
> DickB
>
>
>
>
> ---- you wrote:
> > Dick,
> > Thanks for your reply.
> >
> > The tires did not appear to be a closeout or new model. I spoke
> with a guy named Martin at the Tire Rack who is a Healey owner. I
> had all the sizes, heights and widths from the Bluegrass Healey Tire
> Guide. 175 80 15 appeared to be a widely used size, so he checked
> the computer and found these. They were not in stock at the time
> but I had them in about 10 days, so they must not have been hard to
> get. 5 tires, delivered, for $245! I get a slight rub at full lock,
> but I understand that is common. I could have gone smaller, but
> these look great in the fenders.
> >
> > Regarding my handling question, how do I determine where the
> problem is? I don't think it is belt separation in new tires and
> they balanced fine, so I don't think it is the wheel.
> >
> > To clarify the situation, it only occurs when I wiggle the
> steering wheel. I know what you're thinking, but driver-induced
> shimmy is not the answer I'm looking for. I'm just comparing it to
> how it felt with the old tires, 155 SR 15 ZXs (old). When I turn
> the wheel back and forth at most any speed I get this "swinging back
> and forth" feeling like there is a lot of flex in the sidewalls.
> Shock bolts are tight. I checked them while the wheels were off.
> >
> > Any other suggestions, or is this normal with a tire that is a
> couple of inches taller?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > John Noblin
> > 65 BJ8
> > Jackson, MS
> >
> > On Mon, 11 Sep 2000 19:23:48 dickb wrote:
> > >John
> > >
> > >1) - 20W-50 - modern equivalent of 30W30 specified in the manual
> > >
> > >2) - I'm surprised that there is now a Goodrich Touring TA in 175
> x 15 - especially at only $40. I was under the impression that the
> only available 175 x 15 was a Michelin ZX at over $100.
> > >
> > >Were you told that your Goodrich's are a newly introduced size or
> were they some sortrt of old stock that Tire rack found for you?
> > >
> > >The only tire cause of shimmy, wobble or shake would be due to
> tread separation, belt separation or most likely - tire/wheel/hub
> inbalance.
> > >
> > >Even more likely would be worn front end parts,, such as tie-rod
> ends; loose front shock absorbers; slop in the idler arm bearing
> (see if it moves up and down rather than side to side when you move
> the steering wheel from side to side).
> > >
> > >If the shocks are moving where tey are bolted to the mounting
> plates, Don't Drive your car until you get it fixed properly,
> meaning rewelding of the cage nuts or installation of welded plates
> under the stock mounting.
> > >
> > >Were you driving your BJ8 on 590 x 15 Dunlops Roadspeeds - the
> ones that came with the car?
> > >
> > >DickB
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ---- you wrote:
> > >>
> > >> A couple of quick questions:
> > >>
> > >> 1) What's the oil of choice for daily, or at least weekly,
> drivers in a hot climate?
> > >>
> > >> 2) I just put new tires on my Healey and found one that I have
> not seen mentioned in any of the recent tire threads. I got a
> Goodrich Touring TA in a 175/80/15 for $40 ea. from Tire Rack.
> There's a little rub at full lock, but they look great and the spare
> fits in the trunk fully inflated. My only concern: there's a lot of
> that sidewall flex induced wobble or shimmy or whatever you call it.
> The old tires were 155SR15. Does everyone get this sway with a
> taller sidewall?
> > >>
> > >> Thanks,
> > >> John Noblin
> > >> BJ8
> > >> Jackson, Mississippi
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> --== Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ ==--
> > >> Before you buy.
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> > >----------------------------------------------------------------
> > >Get your free email from AltaVista at http://altavista.iname.com
> > >
> >
> >
> > --== Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ ==--
> > Before you buy.
> >
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 07:36:13 -0600
Subject: Fw: CHAIN LTR WORTH THE READ
> Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2000 7:34 AM
> Subject: FW: CHAIN LTR WORTH THE READ
>
>
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Stephenson, Larry [mailto:LarryStephenson@jis.nashville.org]
> > Sent: Monday, August 28, 2000 9:52 AM
> > To: Acevedo, Luis; 'Cole Burgess'; Covington, BIll (County Clerk);
> > 'David Chambers'; 'Don Belcher'; 'Jack Spann'; 'Nelson Keen'; Robinson,
> > Norman; 'Sam at home'; 'Tommy Lamar'; Wallace, Ted; 'Wanda Jones'
> > Subject: FW: CHAIN LTR WORTH THE READ
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Just for grins:
> >
> > > > >>This chain letter was started in hopes of bringing
> > > > >>relief to other tired and
> > > > >>discouraged men. Unlike most chain letters, this one
> > > > >>does not cost anything.
> > > > >>Just send a copy of this letter to five of your
> > > > >>friends who are equally
> > > > >>tired and discontented. Then bundle up your wife or
> > > > >>girlfriend and send her to
> > > > >>the man whose name appears at the top of the
> > > > >>following list, and add your
> > > > >>name to the bottom of the list.
> > > > >>
> > > > >>When your turn comes, you will receive 15,625 women.
> > > > >>One of them is
> > > > >>bound to be better than the one you already have. At
> > > > >>the writing of this letter,
> > > > >>a friend of mine had already received 184 women, of
> > > > >>whom 4 were worth keeping.
> > > > >>REMEMBER this chain brings luck. One man's pit bull
> > > > >>died, and the next
> > > > >>day he received a Playboy swimsuit model. An
> > > > >>unmarried Jewish man living with
> > > > >>his widowed mother was able to choose between a
> > > > >>Hooters waitress and a
> > > > >>Hollywood super model.
> > > > >>
> > > > >>You can be lucky too, but DO NOT BREAK THE CHAIN!
> > > > >>One man broke the
> > > > >>chain, and got his own wife back again.
> > > > >>
> > > > >>Let's keep it going, men! Just add your name to the
> > > > >>list below!
> > > > >>
> > > > >>
> > > > >>Bill Clinton
> > > > >>1600 Pennsylvania Ave.
> > > > >>Washington DC
> > > > >>
> > > > >>William Jefferson Clinton
> > > > >>1600 Pennsylvania Ave.
> > > > >>Washington DC
> > > > >>
> > > > >>W. J. Clinton
> > > > >>1600 Pennsylvania Ave.
> > > > >>Washington DC
> > > > >>
> > > > >>William Clinton
> > > > >>1600 Pennsylvania Ave.
> > > > >>Washington DC
> > > > >>
> > > > >>W. Jefferson Clinton
> > > > >>1600 Pennsylvania Ave.
> > > > >>Washington DC
> > > > >>
> > > > >>William J. Clinton
> > > > >>1600 Pennsylvania Ave.
> > > > >>Washington DC
> > > > >>
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
From jclose at sduhsd.k12.ca.us
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 08:38:49 -0800
Subject: Tire Question
Hello Listers - On my BN6, I have Goodyear Eagle GT+4 tires, P195-70-R15. My
real axle is offset approx. 1/4" to the left. As a result of this
offset/oversize tire combination, my right rear tire is very close to its inside
fender well and rubs occasionally. What shall I do to remedy this? I do not
desire to switch to smaller tires. Suggestions, please? Thanks - JohnC
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 07:50:59 -0700
Subject: RE: Tire Question
If the bump box bolt heads have their paint polished away, you could try
some countersink arrangement or half height heads.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: jclose@sduhsd.k12.ca.us [mailto:jclose@sduhsd.k12.ca.us]
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2000 9:39 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Tire Question
Hello Listers - On my BN6, I have Goodyear Eagle GT+4 tires, P195-70-R15. My
real axle is offset approx. 1/4" to the left. As a result of this
offset/oversize tire combination, my right rear tire is very close to its
inside
fender well and rubs occasionally. What shall I do to remedy this? I do not
desire to switch to smaller tires. Suggestions, please? Thanks - JohnC
From "Donald L. Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 11:02:38 -0500
Subject: pinging under load
This question goes to the list because I'm getting conflicting info from
people (not Healey mechanics) but other mechanics.
I have got the Old Red Devil running pretty good. (Except now my overdrive
doesn't work again). It is still pinging, however, under load. Not when I
take off in low, nor when I shift to second, but usually when I shift to
third or fourth it pings a little before taking thrust.
I've asked some local back alley mechanics and a couple of guys who call
themselves mechanics, but none are familiar with Austin Healeys.
Some say it's just the low octane gas. Some say to retard the timing more,
some say it's too far retarded. I'm beginning to think I'm the one who is
retarded.
What say you, list?????
Don
BN7
From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 13:41:36 EDT
Subject: Bearing dimensions?
The engine for my 1966 BJ8 is getting closer! My machinist has asked for the
connecting rod big end bore diameter, and the bore diameter of the main bearing
caps. I have looked in my Bently manual and it appears it is not listed. Am I
looking in the wrong place or can someone help me out?
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
From "Karlsson Magnus" <healey at telia.com>
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 20:29:15 +0200
Subject: SV: pinging under load
Don,
First I would determine what your actual timing is set to, then change it in
accordance with the workshop manual. It sure sounds like your timing is set a
little too advanced.
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
----- Original Message -----
From: Donald L. Yarber <dyarber@dynasty.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2000 6:02 PM
Subject: pinging under load
>
> This question goes to the list because I'm getting conflicting info from
> people (not Healey mechanics) but other mechanics.
>
> I have got the Old Red Devil running pretty good. (Except now my overdrive
> doesn't work again). It is still pinging, however, under load. Not when I
> take off in low, nor when I shift to second, but usually when I shift to
> third or fourth it pings a little before taking thrust.
>
> I've asked some local back alley mechanics and a couple of guys who call
> themselves mechanics, but none are familiar with Austin Healeys.
>
> Some say it's just the low octane gas. Some say to retard the timing more,
> some say it's too far retarded. I'm beginning to think I'm the one who is
> retarded.
>
> What say you, list?????
>
> Don
> BN7
>
From NPaul72464 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 14:43:58 EDT
Subject: Pinging under load
I believe it's either that the octane is too low or the timing is too
advanced.
Ned Paulsen
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 11:56:25 -0700
Subject: Re: pinging under load
On my car I gave it a tune-up, valves adjusted, carbs setup, plugs cleaned
and adjusted and then static timed it. It pings with everthing but the
highest octane gas. I try to use 94 if I can get it 92 if not, anything else
rattles on accelertation. I have been retarded for as long as I can
remember, remember....what was I talking about. Well that's my opinion
and......I can't remember...Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Donald L. Yarber" <dyarber@dynasty.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2000 9:02 AM
Subject: pinging under load
>
> This question goes to the list because I'm getting conflicting info from
> people (not Healey mechanics) but other mechanics.
>
> I have got the Old Red Devil running pretty good. (Except now my
overdrive
> doesn't work again). It is still pinging, however, under load. Not when
I
> take off in low, nor when I shift to second, but usually when I shift to
> third or fourth it pings a little before taking thrust.
>
> I've asked some local back alley mechanics and a couple of guys who call
> themselves mechanics, but none are familiar with Austin Healeys.
>
> Some say it's just the low octane gas. Some say to retard the timing
more,
> some say it's too far retarded. I'm beginning to think I'm the one who is
> retarded.
>
> What say you, list?????
>
> Don
> BN7
>
>
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 15:25:58 -0400
Subject: Re: Tire Question
John,
Have had the same prob on my BJ8 for many years. The car has been fitted
with Jag E Type wheels with 185/15 Michelin Red Lines (many years ago). I
finally got tired of the rubbing and had a machine shop make 1/4 inch Al
spacers to place behind the hubs. Only rarely rubs when going at a diagonal
across two large elevation changes, like the foot of my driveway.
The 1/4 inch is rather marginal as far as the hub nuts catching enough
thread. If I had it to do over again I believe I would have gone to a 3/16
thickness. If you have the material they would be rather easy to make for
yourself.
Keith Pennell
----- Original Message -----
From: <jclose@sduhsd.k12.ca.us>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2000 12:38 PM
Subject: Tire Question
>
>
> Hello Listers - On my BN6, I have Goodyear Eagle GT+4 tires, P195-70-R15.
My
> real axle is offset approx. 1/4" to the left. As a result of this
> offset/oversize tire combination, my right rear tire is very close to its
inside
> fender well and rubs occasionally. What shall I do to remedy this? I do
not
> desire to switch to smaller tires. Suggestions, please? Thanks - JohnC
>
>
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 15:38:22 EDT
Subject: Re: pinging under load
In a message dated 9/13/00 10:09:56 AM, dyarber@dynasty.net writes:
<< Not when I
take off in low, nor when I shift to second, but usually when I shift to
third or fourth it pings a little before taking thrust.
>>
Any chance that your vacuum advance isn't working properly?
Cheers
Gary
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 15:56:40 EDT
Subject: Tire bounce
When I am pushing it in a moderate to tight left turn it feels like the front
left tire is bouncing, even on perfectly smoot pavement--the shock is
transmitted to the wheel which goes from side to side several times, perhaps
3"-4". Is this due to shocks, springs or what?
Thanks--Michael, BN1
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 16:00:27 -0400
Subject: Re: pinging under load
"Donald L. Yarber" wrote:
> This question goes to the list because I'm getting conflicting info from
> people (not Healey mechanics) but other mechanics.
>
> I have got the Old Red Devil running pretty good. (Except now my overdrive
> doesn't work again). It is still pinging, however, under load. Not when I
> take off in low, nor when I shift to second, but usually when I shift to
> third or fourth it pings a little before taking thrust.
>
> I've asked some local back alley mechanics and a couple of guys who call
> themselves mechanics, but none are familiar with Austin Healeys.
>
> Some say it's just the low octane gas. Some say to retard the timing more,
> some say it's too far retarded. I'm beginning to think I'm the one who is
> retarded.
>
> What say you, list?????
>
> Don
> BN7
Hi Don,
I would suggest that you set the timing to 5/8" BTDC static then fill up with
the highest octane fuel that you can buy at the pump and see if the problem
goes away.
Retarding the ignition is not really a great solution because you will loose
power and the engine will run hotter.
If the above does not solve the problem I would recommend that you have your
distributor tested for correct vacuum and centrifugal advance.
We find that the premium fuel that we can get here in Canada will work fine in
a correctly tuned Healey with the timing set to spec.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From BGAHC at aol.com
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 16:29:32 EDT
Subject: Re: pinging under load
dyarber@dynasty.net writes:
<< Some say it's just the low octane gas. Some say to retard the timing
more, >>
Don,
You have to use premium fuel and if it still occurs your timing is too far
advanced.
Whatever it is fix it, I want to see this car on Saturday. Just bought a
digital camera today and intend to snap photos.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Visit my Healey Adventure site at www.jamesfwerner.com
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 15:30:26 -0500
Subject: Re: Tire Question
It sounds as if you need RELIEF !! Take a small sledge
and.............................
----- Original Message -----
From: jclose@sduhsd.k12.ca.us
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Tire Question
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 08:38:49 -0800
Hello Listers - On my BN6, I have Goodyear Eagle GT+4 tires, P195-70-R15. My
real axle is offset approx. 1/4" to the left. As a result of this
offset/oversize tire combination, my right rear tire is very close to its
inside
fender well and rubs occasionally. What shall I do to remedy this? I do not
desire to switch to smaller tires. Suggestions, please? Thanks - JohnC
From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 16:33:21 EDT
Subject: Re: pinging under load
Don,
It sure sounds like an advance problem to me. Perhaps the mechanical advance
is not functioning. Does the car idle smoothly, or does it search around a
bit? If it searches, then the springs on the weights are too light. Does the
timing mark move around a lot when you check it with a strobe timing light?
Yes- bad springs. No- weights stuck or working properly.
If the vacuum advance is connected to the wrong port, it could also cause your
problems. Full advance with the throttle open would do what you are saying.
Does the engine speed at idle increase or decrease when you unplug the vacuum
line to the advance unit?
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 15:38:05 -0500
Subject: Re: pinging under load
if the ping is just momentary, i'd say you were right on the money. what you
don't want is continual detonation which could lead to a hole in a piston.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Donald L. Yarber" <dyarber@dynasty.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: pinging under load
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 11:02:38 -0500
This question goes to the list because I'm getting conflicting info from
people (not Healey mechanics) but other mechanics.
I have got the Old Red Devil running pretty good. (Except now my overdrive
doesn't work again). It is still pinging, however, under load. Not when I
take off in low, nor when I shift to second, but usually when I shift to
third or fourth it pings a little before taking thrust.
I've asked some local back alley mechanics and a couple of guys who call
themselves mechanics, but none are familiar with Austin Healeys.
Some say it's just the low octane gas. Some say to retard the timing more,
some say it's too far retarded. I'm beginning to think I'm the one who is
retarded.
What say you, list?????
Don
BN7
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 17:24:09 EDT
Subject: Re: Tire bounce--Chaapter two
In a message dated 9/13/00 5:08:26 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
frogeye@gateway.net writes:
The bushing at the top of the short link is almost gone and only about 1/3rd
of it is still in place. When I pull on the top of the left tire while it is
on the ground I both hear and feel a distinct clunk and get about 1/4" of
movement at the same time. When I release the tire the clunk happens agbain
and the tire goes back in. This condition is not present on the right
front. Would this correspond to changes in camber/caster due to bad bushing?
And while replacing the front bushings should I use the newer nylon ones?
From "Bill Gildea " <bgildea at portjeff.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 18:14:50 -0400
Subject: RE: Wearing the kilt in the Healey
Aye, to the A/C in in your Germanic Speedster but take heed that at full blast
the lilt o' your kilt could giv ya' at least 2 octives higher voice!
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: pcowper@webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
Reply-To: pcowper@webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2000 12:53:05 -0700 (PDT)
>
>
>--WebTV-Mail-23665-2523
>
>Aye . . . but I dunno if the Healey sha be my steed. Mon Porsche 911
>under-dash air conditioning vents be aimed right proudly when wearing
>the kilt.
>
>Peter Macintosh Cowper
>(1960 BT7, 1974 911S)
>
>
>--WebTV-Mail-23665-2523
>Content-Disposition: Inline
>
>Received: from smtpin-101-2.bryant.webtv.net (209.240.198.96) by
> storefull-142.iap.bryant.webtv.net with WTV-SMTP; Tue, 12 Sep 2000
> 07:46:18 -0700 (PDT)
>Received: by smtpin-101-2.bryant.webtv.net (WebTV_Postfix) id B245B153; Tue,
> 12 Sep 2000 07:46:17 -0700 (PDT)
>Delivered-To: pcowper@webtv.net
>Received: from exchange.cfworks.com (mail.cfworks.com [204.1.211.252]) by
> smtpin-101-2.bryant.webtv.net (WebTV_Postfix) with ESMTP id
> CC1E419F for <pcowper@webtv.net>; Tue, 12 Sep 2000 07:46:16 -0700 (PDT)
>Received: by EXCHANGE with Internet Mail Service (5.5.2650.21) id <SWTMS648>;
> Tue, 12 Sep 2000 07:40:47 -0700
>Message-ID: <71B3BEAEDE83D2119DA10004ACAE76411E0D20@EXCHANGE>
>From: Martin Johnson <MJohnson@cfworks.com>
>To: "'pcowper@webtv.net'" <pcowper@webtv.net>, healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: RE: Brake Light Switch Replacement
>Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2000 07:40:47 -0700
>MIME-Version: 1.0
>X-Mailer: Internet Mail Service (5.5.2650.21)
>
>Aye Laddie, an' do na' be prancin' too high in yer kilt if yer regimental.
>An' some futher advice: If ye drive yer Healey tae the games, be sure an'
>smooth out the backside o' yer kilt afore ye sit on yer leather seats, else
>ye may toast the family jewels, an' wrinkle yer pleats. Neither condition
>is very Scotsmanlike.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: pcowper@webtv.net [mailto:pcowper@webtv.net]
>Sent: Monday, September 11, 2000 11:22 PM
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: Brake Light Switch Replacement
>
>
>
>I took my non-functioning original 1960 brake light switch off and
>flushed out all the black semi-solid goop. It has been working fine for
>about 5 more years now.
>
>Glad to share this money-saving tip as it helps get me in a frugal
>Scottish mood to prance around in my kilt this Saturday at the Fresno
>Highland Games.
>
>Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
>
>--WebTV-Mail-23665-2523--
>
From "Sofnet User" <shemberone at sofnet.com>
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 23:21:28 GMT
Subject: Fwd: Fw: CHAIN LTR WORTH THE READ
****** Forwarded Message Follows *******
>To: "Randy Wolfe" <rwolfe@lanl.gov>, <katrina@swcp.com>, "Clark-Susan
>Chipman"
<cchipman1@stny.rr.com>, "Michael Urban Trueworthy"
<mtruewo1@maine.rr.com>,
"Robert Owen Walters" <RowBoat53@aol.com>
>From: "frogeye" <frogeye@gateway.net>
>Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 07:36:13 -0600
>
>
>
>> Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2000 7:34 AM
>> Subject: FW: CHAIN LTR WORTH THE READ
>>
>>
>> >
>> >
>> > -----Original Message-----
>> > From: Stephenson, Larry [mailto:LarryStephenson@jis.nashville.org]
>> > Sent: Monday, August 28, 2000 9:52 AM
>> > To: Acevedo, Luis; 'Cole Burgess'; Covington, BIll (County Clerk);
>> > 'David Chambers'; 'Don Belcher'; 'Jack Spann'; 'Nelson Keen'; Robinson,
>> > Norman; 'Sam at home'; 'Tommy Lamar'; Wallace, Ted; 'Wanda Jones'
>> > Subject: FW: CHAIN LTR WORTH THE READ
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Just for grins:
>> >
>> > > > >>This chain letter was started in hopes of bringing
>> > > > >>relief to other tired and
>> > > > >>discouraged men. Unlike most chain letters, this one
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>> > > > >>name to the bottom of the list.
>> > > > >>
>> > > > >>When your turn comes, you will receive 15,625 women.
>> > > > >>One of them is
>> > > > >>bound to be better than the one you already have. At
>> > > > >>the writing of this letter,
>> > > > >>a friend of mine had already received 184 women, of
>> > > > >>whom 4 were worth keeping.
>> > > > >>REMEMBER this chain brings luck. One man's pit bull
>> > > > >>died, and the next
>> > > > >>day he received a Playboy swimsuit model. An
>> > > > >>unmarried Jewish man living with
>> > > > >>his widowed mother was able to choose between a
>> > > > >>Hooters waitress and a
>> > > > >>Hollywood super model.
>> > > > >>
>> > > > >>You can be lucky too, but DO NOT BREAK THE CHAIN!
>> > > > >>One man broke the
>> > > > >>chain, and got his own wife back again.
>> > > > >>
>> > > > >>Let's keep it going, men! Just add your name to the
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>> > > > >>
>> > > > >>
>> > > > >>Bill Clinton
>> > > > >>1600 Pennsylvania Ave.
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>> > > > >>1600 Pennsylvania Ave.
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>> > > > >>1600 Pennsylvania Ave.
>> > > > >>Washington DC
>> > > > >>
>> > > > >>William Clinton
>> > > > >>1600 Pennsylvania Ave.
>> > > > >>Washington DC
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>> > > > >>W. Jefferson Clinton
>> > > > >>1600 Pennsylvania Ave.
>> > > > >>Washington DC
>> > > > >>
>> > > > >>William J. Clinton
>> > > > >>1600 Pennsylvania Ave.
>> > > > >>Washington DC
>> > > > >>
>> > > > >
>> > > > >
>> > > > >
>> > > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
>
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 20:03:58 EDT
Subject: Re: pinging under load
In a message dated 09/13/2000 3:01:35 PM Central Daylight Time,
magicare@home.com writes:
<< We find that the premium fuel that we can get here in Canada will work
fine in
a correctly tuned Healey with the timing set to spec. >>
Ditto, "down here" , Mike!!
Ed
From Joseph Elmer <Joelmer at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 20:06:19 -0400
Subject: Re: pinging under load
Is advancing too much. Try retarding it a little.
"Donald L. Yarber" wrote:
> This question goes to the list because I'm getting conflicting info from
> people (not Healey mechanics) but other mechanics.
>
> I have got the Old Red Devil running pretty good. (Except now my overdrive
> doesn't work again). It is still pinging, however, under load. Not when I
> take off in low, nor when I shift to second, but usually when I shift to
> third or fourth it pings a little before taking thrust.
>
> I've asked some local back alley mechanics and a couple of guys who call
> themselves mechanics, but none are familiar with Austin Healeys.
>
> Some say it's just the low octane gas. Some say to retard the timing more,
> some say it's too far retarded. I'm beginning to think I'm the one who is
> retarded.
>
> What say you, list?????
>
> Don
> BN7
From Joseph Elmer <Joelmer at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 20:09:11 -0400
Subject: Re: SV: pinging under load
Is there some way to determine the degree of advance under the conditions that
are producing the ping? (Third, forth gear - some load on the engine) Hard to
tell what the vacuum
advance is doing with the car parked.
Karlsson Magnus wrote:
> Don,
>
> First I would determine what your actual timing is set to, then change it in
>accordance with the workshop manual. It sure sounds like your timing is set a
>little too advanced.
>
> Magnus Karlsson
> SWEDEN
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Donald L. Yarber <dyarber@dynasty.net>
> To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2000 6:02 PM
> Subject: pinging under load
>
> >
> > This question goes to the list because I'm getting conflicting info from
> > people (not Healey mechanics) but other mechanics.
> >
> > I have got the Old Red Devil running pretty good. (Except now my overdrive
> > doesn't work again). It is still pinging, however, under load. Not when I
> > take off in low, nor when I shift to second, but usually when I shift to
> > third or fourth it pings a little before taking thrust.
> >
> > I've asked some local back alley mechanics and a couple of guys who call
> > themselves mechanics, but none are familiar with Austin Healeys.
> >
> > Some say it's just the low octane gas. Some say to retard the timing more,
> > some say it's too far retarded. I'm beginning to think I'm the one who is
> > retarded.
> >
> > What say you, list?????
> >
> > Don
> > BN7
> >
From Peter Brauen <pbrauen at telepak.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 19:10:35 -0500
Subject: Re: Tire Question
Hi all,
I have encountered this problem a few times, and early (pre-phase 2 BJ8)
Healeys have an easy solution: Check and renew the panhard rod bushes and
make sure that the brackets are not bent. If this does not center the axle
properly, consider using some washers behind the bushings to bias the axle
one way or the other. Hope this helps.
Peter (BMC Restorations)
Hello Listers - On my BN6, I have Goodyear Eagle GT+4 tires,
P195-70-R15. My
real axle is offset approx. 1/4" to the left. As a result of this
offset/oversize tire combination, my right rear tire is very close to
its inside
fender well and rubs occasionally. What shall I do to remedy this? I do
not
desire to switch to smaller tires. Suggestions, please? Thanks - JohnC
From Joseph Elmer <Joelmer at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 20:17:29 -0400
Subject: pinging under load
Along with the idea that pinging indicates too much advance, does a real
snappy exhaust tone just short of backfiring when decelerating indicate
the timing is too retarded?
Joe Elmer, BN1
From "David" <david_m at radiantsoundworks.com>
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 22:07:01 -0700
Subject: Re: pinging under load
Guys...a hole in the piston is the easy problem. When I ignored pinging it
melted the piston...the rings broke....and it destroyed the cylinder.
Pinging is an ugly thing for sure!
You can review the damage at my site if you wish.
www.radiantsoundworks.com/AustinHealey.html
Dave
BJ8
TR4A
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <dyarber@dynasty.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2000 1:38 PM
Subject: Re: pinging under load
>
> if the ping is just momentary, i'd say you were right on the money. what
you don't want is continual detonation which could lead to a hole in a
piston.
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: "Donald L. Yarber" <dyarber@dynasty.net>
> To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: pinging under load
> Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 11:02:38 -0500
>
>
> This question goes to the list because I'm getting conflicting info from
> people (not Healey mechanics) but other mechanics.
>
> I have got the Old Red Devil running pretty good. (Except now my
overdrive
> doesn't work again). It is still pinging, however, under load. Not when
I
> take off in low, nor when I shift to second, but usually when I shift to
> third or fourth it pings a little before taking thrust.
>
> I've asked some local back alley mechanics and a couple of guys who call
> themselves mechanics, but none are familiar with Austin Healeys.
>
> Some say it's just the low octane gas. Some say to retard the timing
more,
> some say it's too far retarded. I'm beginning to think I'm the one who is
> retarded.
>
> What say you, list?????
>
> Don
> BN7
>
>
>
>
From "Donald L. Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 21:45:06 -0500
Subject: Pinging Under Load Answers and Suggestions
Thanks everyone for the suggestions. The consensus of opinion was that the
timing is too far advanced and needs to be retarded. I put the timing light
on it tonight and tomorrow I will take it out for a trial run to see what
the results are. Special thanks to frogeye for his advice on how to use a
timing light.
Don
BN7
From "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 20:05:35 -0700
Subject: Re: pinging under load
I tend to agree. You may be shifting into 3rd and 4th a little too
early (under the power curve) and lugging the engine down a bit. This
could cause a perfectly tuned engine to ping momentarily. This type
of problem or most other mechanical maladies aren't pecular to just
Healeys, so you don't have to offer excuses for your mechanic friends.
Just be thankful that you have them.
Mark Fawcett
'60 BT7 under restoration and not running
----- Original Message -----
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <dyarber@dynasty.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2000 1:38 PM
Subject: Re: pinging under load
>
> if the ping is just momentary, i'd say you were right on the money.
what you don't want is continual detonation which could lead to a hole
in a piston.
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: "Donald L. Yarber" <dyarber@dynasty.net>
> To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: pinging under load
> Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 11:02:38 -0500
>
>
> This question goes to the list because I'm getting conflicting info
from
> people (not Healey mechanics) but other mechanics.
>
> I have got the Old Red Devil running pretty good. (Except now my
overdrive
> doesn't work again). It is still pinging, however, under load. Not
when I
> take off in low, nor when I shift to second, but usually when I
shift to
> third or fourth it pings a little before taking thrust.
>
> I've asked some local back alley mechanics and a couple of guys who
call
> themselves mechanics, but none are familiar with Austin Healeys.
>
> Some say it's just the low octane gas. Some say to retard the
timing more,
> some say it's too far retarded. I'm beginning to think I'm the one
who is
> retarded.
>
> What say you, list?????
>
> Don
> BN7
>
>
>
From "RR Moss" <rr_moss at hotmail.com>
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2000 03:37:07 GMT
Subject: West German Export cars
Hello Doug,
I am starting a Registry for West German Export cars which "Covers mainly
the cars from September 1961 which had separate amber lens direction
indicators."
The information collected will be used to help inquiries of other owners of
similar vehicles concerning their current or former cars.
I would be happy to discuss this registry in more detail with anyone who
would care to contact me.
If you are interested can you advise me the following;
Chassis#
Body #
Batch #
color
Extras
Country previously registered
Regards,
Ralph Roden
West German Export Cars Registry
Steve Byers wrote;
Hi, Ralph --
Much luck with your registry. I think everything that can be done to
collect and preserve data on the cars is a good thing, and I welcome your
interest in starting such a registry. I myself do NOT own a WGEMC, but I
have at least one or two cars listed in the global BJ8 registry that appear
to be WGEMC. I would be glad to research my database and provide the
information I have, as well as letting you know if any other turn up in the
future in my search for ALL BJ8s. In return, I would only ask that if you
become aware of any BJ8s that you let me know about that. It's possible
that most WGEMC cars stayed in Germany. I have a listing of the members of
the A-H Club of Germany with the VINs of the cars, but in most cases no way
of knowing whether the cars were original to Germany. I have tried to
follow up with the German owners in only a couple of cases.
Steve Byers
BJ8 Registry
-----Original Message-----
From: Douglas W. Flagg <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, September 08, 2000 9:56 AM
Subject: Re:66 BJ8 For Sale
>
>I should have available by tomorrow a .jpg file showing the '66 BJ8 being
>offered by Mrs. Rounds for sale. For those of you who may be interested
>in this beautiful German exported Healey please contact me off the list.
>The car is located on the west coast. It has 72 spoke chromed wire wheels
>w/Michelin tyres, badge bar with a pair of Lucas lamps, factory style
>luggage rack, and wooden steering wheel. Also, has the original locking
>steering column ignition. Thanks.
>
>Happy Healeying,
>
>Doug
>
_________________________________________________________________________
From "Karlsson Magnus" <healey at telia.com>
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2000 09:08:42 +0200
Subject: SV: SV: pinging under load
If the timing is set according to the workshop manual and using premium gas,
there should be no pinging regardless of gear, load or revs used. When correct
timing has been established and pinging still occurs, it´s time to look for
other problems like faulty vacuum unit, wrong weights, wrong springs, wrong
baseplate or wrong distributor. The vacuum unit can be tested when stationary
using a vacuum testing device. If there is something wrong with the vacuum unit
I found that it can be left unhooked. This will not affect the "feel" of the
engine.
Magnus karlsson
SWEDEN
----- Original Message -----
From: Joseph Elmer <Joelmer@worldnet.att.net>
To: Karlsson Magnus <healey@telia.com>
Cc: Healey Lista <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2000 2:09 AM
Subject: Re: SV: pinging under load
> Is there some way to determine the degree of advance under the conditions
>that are producing the ping? (Third, forth gear - some load on the engine)
>Hard to tell what the vacuum
> advance is doing with the car parked.
>
> Karlsson Magnus wrote:
>
> > Don,
> >
> > First I would determine what your actual timing is set to, then change it
>in accordance with the workshop manual. It sure sounds like your timing is set
>a little too advanced.
> >
> > Magnus Karlsson
> > SWEDEN
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Donald L. Yarber <dyarber@dynasty.net>
> > To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2000 6:02 PM
> > Subject: pinging under load
> >
> > >
> > > This question goes to the list because I'm getting conflicting info from
> > > people (not Healey mechanics) but other mechanics.
> > >
> > > I have got the Old Red Devil running pretty good. (Except now my
>overdrive
> > > doesn't work again). It is still pinging, however, under load. Not when
>I
> > > take off in low, nor when I shift to second, but usually when I shift to
> > > third or fourth it pings a little before taking thrust.
> > >
> > > I've asked some local back alley mechanics and a couple of guys who call
> > > themselves mechanics, but none are familiar with Austin Healeys.
> > >
> > > Some say it's just the low octane gas. Some say to retard the timing
>more,
> > > some say it's too far retarded. I'm beginning to think I'm the one who is
> > > retarded.
> > >
> > > What say you, list?????
> > >
> > > Don
> > > BN7
> > >
>
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2000 04:30:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: West German Export cars
Ralph,
I've mentioned your registry and contact info in my column in Austin-Healey
Magazine. It should hit members' mailboxes within a couple of weeks. Let
us know how many you turn up.
Cheers,
Reid
On Thu, 14 Sep 2000 03:37:07 GMT, RR Moss wrote:
>
> Hello Doug,
>
> I am starting a Registry for West German Export cars which "Covers mainly
> the cars from September 1961 which had separate amber lens direction
> indicators."
>
> The information collected will be used to help inquiries of other owners
of
> similar vehicles concerning their current or former cars.
> I would be happy to discuss this registry in more detail with anyone who
> would care to contact me.
>
> If you are interested can you advise me the following;
> Chassis#
> Body #
> Batch #
> color
> Extras
> Country previously registered
>
> Regards,
>
> Ralph Roden
> West German Export Cars Registry
>
>
> Steve Byers wrote;
> Hi, Ralph --
> Much luck with your registry. I think everything that can be done to
> collect and preserve data on the cars is a good thing, and I welcome your
> interest in starting such a registry. I myself do NOT own a WGEMC, but I
> have at least one or two cars listed in the global BJ8 registry that
appear
> to be WGEMC. I would be glad to research my database and provide the
> information I have, as well as letting you know if any other turn up in
the
> future in my search for ALL BJ8s. In return, I would only ask that if
you
> become aware of any BJ8s that you let me know about that. It's possible
> that most WGEMC cars stayed in Germany. I have a listing of the members
of
> the A-H Club of Germany with the VINs of the cars, but in most cases no
way
> of knowing whether the cars were original to Germany. I have tried to
> follow up with the German owners in only a couple of cases.
>
> Steve Byers
> BJ8 Registry
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Douglas W. Flagg <dwflagg@juno.com>
> To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Friday, September 08, 2000 9:56 AM
> Subject: Re:66 BJ8 For Sale
>
>
> >
> >I should have available by tomorrow a .jpg file showing the '66 BJ8
being
> >offered by Mrs. Rounds for sale. For those of you who may be interested
> >in this beautiful German exported Healey please contact me off the list.
> >The car is located on the west coast. It has 72 spoke chromed wire
wheels
> >w/Michelin tyres, badge bar with a pair of Lucas lamps, factory style
> >luggage rack, and wooden steering wheel. Also, has the original locking
> >steering column ignition. Thanks.
> >
> >Happy Healeying,
> >
> >Doug
> >
> _________________________________________________________________________
>
>
_______________________________________________________
Say Bye to Slow Internet!
http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html
From michael adams <maxxadams at excite.com>
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2000 06:05:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: RE: Wearing the kilt in the Healey
On Wed, 13 Sep 2000 18:14:50 -0400, Bill Gildea wrote:
> Only if he is wear'n a dancers kilt!
Pipe Major Michael Adams Clan MacNeil Pipe Band Ret.
> Aye, to the A/C in in your Germanic Speedster but take heed that at full
blast the lilt o' your kilt could giv ya' at least 2 octives higher voice!
>
>
> ---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
> From: pcowper@webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
> Reply-To: pcowper@webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
> Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2000 12:53:05 -0700 (PDT)
>
> >
> >
> >--WebTV-Mail-23665-2523
> >
> >Aye . . . but I dunno if the Healey sha be my steed. Mon Porsche 911
> >under-dash air conditioning vents be aimed right proudly when wearing
> >the kilt.
> >
> >Peter Macintosh Cowper
> >(1960 BT7, 1974 911S)
> >
> >
> >--WebTV-Mail-23665-2523
> >Content-Disposition: Inline
> >
> >Received: from smtpin-101-2.bryant.webtv.net (209.240.198.96) by
> > storefull-142.iap.bryant.webtv.net with WTV-SMTP; Tue, 12 Sep 2000
> > 07:46:18 -0700 (PDT)
> >Received: by smtpin-101-2.bryant.webtv.net (WebTV_Postfix) id B245B153;
Tue,
> > 12 Sep 2000 07:46:17 -0700 (PDT)
> >Delivered-To: pcowper@webtv.net
> >Received: from exchange.cfworks.com (mail.cfworks.com [204.1.211.252])
by
> > smtpin-101-2.bryant.webtv.net (WebTV_Postfix) with ESMTP id
> > CC1E419F for <pcowper@webtv.net>; Tue, 12 Sep 2000 07:46:16 -0700 (PDT)
> >Received: by EXCHANGE with Internet Mail Service (5.5.2650.21) id
<SWTMS648>;
> > Tue, 12 Sep 2000 07:40:47 -0700
> >Message-ID: <71B3BEAEDE83D2119DA10004ACAE76411E0D20@EXCHANGE>
> >From: Martin Johnson <MJohnson@cfworks.com>
> >To: "'pcowper@webtv.net'" <pcowper@webtv.net>, healeys@autox.team.net
> >Subject: RE: Brake Light Switch Replacement
> >Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2000 07:40:47 -0700
> >MIME-Version: 1.0
> >X-Mailer: Internet Mail Service (5.5.2650.21)
> >
> >Aye Laddie, an' do na' be prancin' too high in yer kilt if yer
regimental.
> >An' some futher advice: If ye drive yer Healey tae the games, be sure
an'
> >smooth out the backside o' yer kilt afore ye sit on yer leather seats,
else
> >ye may toast the family jewels, an' wrinkle yer pleats. Neither
condition
> >is very Scotsmanlike.
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: pcowper@webtv.net [mailto:pcowper@webtv.net]
> >Sent: Monday, September 11, 2000 11:22 PM
> >To: healeys@autox.team.net
> >Subject: Re: Brake Light Switch Replacement
> >
> >
> >
> >I took my non-functioning original 1960 brake light switch off and
> >flushed out all the black semi-solid goop. It has been working fine for
> >about 5 more years now.
> >
> >Glad to share this money-saving tip as it helps get me in a frugal
> >Scottish mood to prance around in my kilt this Saturday at the Fresno
> >Highland Games.
> >
> >Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
> >
> >--WebTV-Mail-23665-2523--
> >
_______________________________________________________
Say Bye to Slow Internet!
http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html
From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2000 07:14:50 -0700
Subject: RE: Tire bounce--Chaapter two
I've been using the polyurethane bushings on my cars for years. I swear by
them.
Jonathan Lane
Retail Sales
Moss Motors, Ltd.
(800) 235-6954 x3240
(805) 692-2525 - Fax
lanej@mossmotors.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Awgertoo@aol.com [mailto:Awgertoo@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2000 2:24 PM
To: frogeye@gateway.net
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Tire bounce--Chaapter two
In a message dated 9/13/00 5:08:26 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
frogeye@gateway.net writes:
The bushing at the top of the short link is almost gone and only about 1/3rd
of it is still in place. When I pull on the top of the left tire while it
is
on the ground I both hear and feel a distinct clunk and get about 1/4" of
movement at the same time. When I release the tire the clunk happens agbain
and the tire goes back in. This condition is not present on the right
front. Would this correspond to changes in camber/caster due to bad
bushing?
And while replacing the front bushings should I use the newer nylon ones?
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2000 11:20:37 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Tire bounce--Chaapter two
Michael
The links are only operative when there is a upward or downward load on One
front wheel as opposed to the other. The noise you hear when you pull on the
top of the left tire - is not associated with either an Up load or a Down load,
so it must be related to the spindles/hubs, kingpins, trunions, etc. You could
disconnect the sway bar and re-perform your "pull" test to satisfy yourself
that what I say is correct.
I use uerethane bushings and they transfer more weight to the Off wheel since
they are not compressable as are the stock rubber bushings. But they also
transfer more force to the threaded ends of the links and you may discover that
your links self-destruct (especially in hard cornering such as gymkanas) and
the threaded end/outer link/nut "disappear" after a hard drive.
Dick
---- you wrote:
>
> In a message dated 9/13/00 5:08:26 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> frogeye@gateway.net writes:
>
> The bushing at the top of the short link is almost gone and only about 1/3rd
> of it is still in place. When I pull on the top of the left tire while it is
> on the ground I both hear and feel a distinct clunk and get about 1/4" of
> movement at the same time. When I release the tire the clunk happens agbain
> and the tire goes back in. This condition is not present on the right
> front. Would this correspond to changes in camber/caster due to bad bushing?
> And while replacing the front bushings should I use the newer nylon ones?
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2000 13:08:38 -0500
Subject: Fwd: Tire bounce--Chaapter two
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej@mossmotors.com>
To: "'Awgertoo@aol.com'" <Awgertoo@aol.com>, frogeye@gateway.net
Subject: Tire bounce--Chaapter two
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2000 07:14:50 -0700
I've been using the polyurethane bushings on my cars for years. I swear by
them.
Jonathan Lane
Retail Sales
Moss Motors, Ltd.
(800) 235-6954 x3240
(805) 692-2525 - Fax
lanej@mossmotors.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Awgertoo@aol.com [mailto:Awgertoo@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2000 2:24 PM
To: frogeye@gateway.net
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Tire bounce--Chaapter two
In a message dated 9/13/00 5:08:26 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
frogeye@gateway.net writes:
The bushing at the top of the short link is almost gone and only about 1/3rd
of it is still in place. When I pull on the top of the left tire while it
is
on the ground I both hear and feel a distinct clunk and get about 1/4" of
movement at the same time. When I release the tire the clunk happens agbain
and the tire goes back in. This condition is not present on the right
front. Would this correspond to changes in camber/caster due to bad
bushing?
And while replacing the front bushings should I use the newer nylon ones?
From "Donald L. Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2000 13:44:46 -0500
Subject: Pinging and Timing
Hey Gang: I started to re-set my timing (static time) this morning and
guess what I found..
(This may have been a good one for the Diagnostic Experts)
The bolt that holds the pinch washer (distributor plate) had some stripped
threads right about where it should have tightened up. The last time I
static timed it I thought it was tight when the nut got snug, apparently it
was just on the stripped threads. The distributor was so loose I could turn
it easily! That may have been the reason for the ping under load??? The
timing had slipped.
I put a new bolt on it, reset the timing (static timed it) about 5/8 " BTDC
and she started right up. I took it for a 30 mile round trip trial run and
it runs fine. (Filled up with 93 Octane at $1.65 per gallon) and brought it
home.
Next item on the list: Tackle the transmission oil leak so my overdrive
will work again.
Don
BN7
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2000 15:26:33 EDT
Subject: Re: Tire bounce--Chaapter two
In a message dated 9/14/00 11:20:46 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
dickb@cheerful.com writes:
<< The noise you hear when you pull on the top of the left tire - is not
associated with either an Up load or a Down load, so it must be related to
the spindles/hubs, kingpins, trunions, etc. >>
Dick--
How did one guy get so smart? The noise is in the front hub--probably a bad
bearing and/or too much tolerance between the races. Unfortunately I cannot
pull the hub so I must repair to my repair shop on Monday for this to be
fixed. We'll see what if any affect it has on the other symptom--
Best--Michael
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2000 17:22:13 -0400
Subject: Re: pinging under load
Gary et al,
How does one check that out?
Keith Pennell
> Any chance that your vacuum advance isn't working properly?
>
> Cheers
> Gary
From "rons" <arjayarjay at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2000 14:49:25 +0000
Subject: Re: Tire bounce--Chaapter two
Dear Awgertoo --
How right you are! Dickb is amazing. He is the smartest guy I know and I've
known him over 30 years. When he gets in involved in something he absorbs
it. At one time we sailed together on big boat races in Lake Michigan. First
thing I knew, he was involved in not just sailing but building a
multi-milion dollar boat for a friend. And that's only one anecdote -- I've
got more.
Ron
BN1
----------
>From: Awgertoo@aol.com
>To: dickb@cheerful.com
>Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: Tire bounce--Chaapter two
>Date: Thu, Sep 14, 2000, 7:26 PM
>
>
> In a message dated 9/14/00 11:20:46 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> dickb@cheerful.com writes:
>
> << The noise you hear when you pull on the top of the left tire - is not
> associated with either an Up load or a Down load, so it must be related to
> the spindles/hubs, kingpins, trunions, etc. >>
>
> Dick--
>
> How did one guy get so smart? The noise is in the front hub--probably a bad
> bearing and/or too much tolerance between the races. Unfortunately I cannot
> pull the hub so I must repair to my repair shop on Monday for this to be
> fixed. We'll see what if any affect it has on the other symptom--
>
> Best--Michael
From Peter Brauen <pbrauen at telepak.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2000 18:03:36 -0500
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Tire Question
Hi John,
Just to follow up, there is no actual adjustment that can be made by
merely tightening the panhard rod nuts (unless they were left loose, of
course), as the shaft is shouldered on the ends. However, placing a washer
that will fit OVER the step in the shaft and behind the bushing will over
compress the bushings slightly and pull the axle over. I would recommend
doing this equally to both ends (outer in your case) to minimize the
tendency to destroy the bushings. Remember that if there is a 1/4"
difference between the two sides, you only have to move the axle 1/8" to
equalize the gap. Do make sure that the mounting brackets are not bent or
broken first. Good luck!
Peter (BMC Restorations)
-----Original Message-----
From: jclose@sduhsd.k12.ca.us <jclose@sduhsd.k12.ca.us>
To: pbrauen@telepak.net <pbrauen@telepak.net>
Date: Thursday, September 14, 2000 8:21 AM
Subject: Re[2]: Tire Question
Excellent suggestion, Peter. I had another look at my Healey yesterday,
and I
think all I need to do is tighten (shorten) the panhard rod to shift the
axle to
the right, by about 1/4". I think there's enough adjustment left to do
this, but
if not, I'll just try the extra washers, as you recommend. Thanks
again - JohnC
From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2000 13:18:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: RE: Wearing the kilt in the Healey
Enough titillating comments!
My Macintosh Ancient Hunting kilt was made by Hugh MacPherson at 17 West
Maitland Street, Edinburgh in 1936 for my father. He lived at the
family farm Gogar Mains of which the Edinburgh airport has now eaten up
all but about 400 acres. James Prentiss and Sons presently own it.
Gogar Mains had stone fireplaces. Scotland is cold. My 1936 kilt is
heavy, heavy wool.
Wearing my kilt in an Austin-Healey driving 50 miles through the 90
degree heat of California's Great Central Valley is not an option.
"Think" slipping into an arctic mummy bag to ride across the Nevada
desert to Snowmass in an Austin-Healey on a summer afternoon.
I'm glad my flippant comment has provided such amusement. Even my Texas
Kooler can't permit wearing the kilt.
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2000 16:12:32 -0600
Subject: Re: pinging under load
It can be done with a timing light and your distributor and/or with a
distributor machine, if you can find someone with one, you'll also need the
distributor Specs for your car.
I'd first check to see that the engine fitted has the correct distributor.
Then check it's preformance with a timing light vis-a-vie the spec sheet.
(remember that it's twice spec at the crank! ) Check the vaccum advance
too,if you want.
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{) 54 BN1
Click below for webpage and mopeds:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <dyarber@dynasty.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2000 3:22 PM
Subject: Re: pinging under load
>
>
> Gary et al,
>
> How does one check that out?
>
> Keith Pennell
> > Any chance that your vacuum advance isn't working properly?
> >
> > Cheers
> > Gary
>
>
From <costan0 at attglobal.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2000 19:11:51 -0700
Subject: cranshaft oil restrictor plugs
The MOSS book indicates that the crankshaft should have 6 oil restricter
plugs in the oil holes. Were these in all the crankshafts because mine has
none?
My machinist says to get all the oil you can to the bearings.
Jerry
From "Tim Moran" <timoran at ticnet.com>
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2000 21:26:35 -0500
Subject: Re: Wearing the kilt in the Healey
Pete,
>>>Even my Texas Kooler can't permit wearing the kilt.
Then you need our new "Texas SOOPER Cooler" !
Just kidding of course....
Tim Moran
www.NTAHC.austin1.com
From rfeibusch at loop.com (Richard Feibusch)
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2000 21:47:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Los Angeles British Meet 2000
THE GREATER LOS ANGELES BRITISH CAR MEET
Sunday, September 24th 2000
Woodley Park * Van Nuys, California
Be part of one of the biggest, one-day, all British lawn events in
California. Over 500 classic, quirky and thoroughly lovable British cars
are expected to fill Woodley Park in Van Nuys, for the 17th Annual Greater
Los Angeles British Car Meet.
Don't have a show car? Don't worry! Daily drivers, vintage racers, street
rods & works-in-progress are as welcome as Concours quality show cars.
Great British food, live jazz, vendors and more fun than you'll be able to
stand! People's Choice awards will be given in six classes.
There is no preregistration. Cars will be placed on the field at 9:00AM and
the fun goes on all day. The registration fee is only $20 per car, at the
gate. All participants receive a meet memento. Spectators park and attend
free.
Woodley Park is located in Van Nuys, just north of the Ventura Freeway
(101), on Woodley Avenue between Burbank Blvd. and Victory Blvd. From the
San Diego Freeway (405), take the Burbank Blvd. exit west, drive to Woodley
Ave. and turn right. Look for the park entrance to the right.
If you need more information, call: 310-392-6605 or email us at:
rfeibusch@loop.com
From robert hughes <dhugh at mail.tscnet.com>
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2000 22:37:41 -0700
Subject: Steering box
Well, I went out into the garage last night and noticed a pool
(more like a large smear) of oil under the left front corner of
my BJ8, directly under the steering box. The lower collar of the
box where the rocker shaft comes through is wet, also. I assume
that the oil seal has gone. Does anyone know if I can replace
the seal in the car, or do I have to pull the whole steering
mechanism out per the manual? Is the oil seal the only part I
need to replace?
Thanks,
Robert Hughes
1965 BJ8
Y Ddriag Goch
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 08:12:36 -0400
Subject: Re: Steering box
robert hughes wrote:
> Well, I went out into the garage last night and noticed a pool
> (more like a large smear) of oil under the left front corner of
> my BJ8, directly under the steering box. The lower collar of the
> box where the rocker shaft comes through is wet, also. I assume
> that the oil seal has gone. Does anyone know if I can replace
> the seal in the car, or do I have to pull the whole steering
> mechanism out per the manual? Is the oil seal the only part I
> need to replace?
> Thanks,
>
> Robert Hughes
> 1965 BJ8
> Y Ddriag Goch
Hi again Robert,
Glad to hear about the solution to your tach problem. The steering box
will be a little more difficult.
The bottom seal on the steering box is a real bear to replace. I have
never tackled it in place although it may be possible.
We remove the box and replace the seal with a pair of lip seals. Very
often the shaft is pitted in the area where the seal runs, which of
course contributes to the leakage problem.
One of the most difficult tasks is the removal of the steering lever
from the rocker shaft. These are a tapered spline. We have a special
puller for the job but they are bloody tight let me tell you.
Be sure to protect the end of the thread before you start applying any
force.... it is very easy to crush because it has a couple of split pin
holes in it.
Bet of a few hours of work for this one. As I recall we charge it out at
about 7 hours usually because of the amount of time it takes to remove
and replace the grille.
Good luck.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 08:36:19 -0400
Subject: Re: cranshaft oil restrictor plugs
Hi Jerry,
As far as I am aware oil restrictors were used in all the cranks.
As I understand these are very important. If they are not used the centrifugal
force generated on the oil in the crankshaft drillings at high RPM can result
in air being draw into the main bearings which will eventually cause bearing
failure.
If you decide to use the crank without the restrictors. Please let me know if
it works out. I have never been brave enough to try it. ;-)
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/ (not working at the moment)
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
costan0@attglobal.net wrote:
> The MOSS book indicates that the crankshaft should have 6 oil restricter
> plugs in the oil holes. Were these in all the crankshafts because mine has
> none?
> My machinist says to get all the oil you can to the bearings.
>
> Jerry
From "Donald L. Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 07:10:20 -0500
Subject: Newburgh, Indiana SirBrit
>From the Evansville, In. Courier:
"Don't be surprised this weekend if you see folks wearing T-shirts sporting
the slogan, "The Best British Cars By a Dam Site".
In reference, of course, to the British Cars that will be at the Newburgh
Lock and Dam on the Ohio River, a few miles upstream from Evansville.
Hope to see a bunch of you Healey owners there. Look for me in my partially
finished "work -in-process" 62 BN7 "Old Red Devil".
bearing Kentucky Antique Auto plates M-645.
Please don't laugh at my car. It gets highly upset and sometimes refuses to
run. It really isn't the car's fault that its owner hasn't finished
installing new door panels or seals, boot deck and carpets, or polished the
knock offs.
My wife and I will probably stop at the Cracker Barrel for breakfast before
motoring on out to the dam car show. The weather man has promised a
beautiful Sunny day. Happy Healeying!
Don
BN7
From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 06:43:50 -0700
Subject: RE: Los Angeles British Meet 2000
So who's planning on attending this thing? I am hoping to have the Healey
there but may end up taking my faithful MGB-GT.
If you go, look for a rather scruffy red BN7 with new Moss Carpets and Seats
or a BRG GT with a MGC hood.
See you there!
Jonathan Lane
-----Original Message-----
From: rfeibusch@loop.com [mailto:rfeibusch@loop.com]
Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2000 9:48 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Cc: R.E.M.I.N.D.E.R@stevie.loop.com
Subject: Los Angeles British Meet 2000
THE GREATER LOS ANGELES BRITISH CAR MEET
Sunday, September 24th 2000
Woodley Park * Van Nuys, California
Be part of one of the biggest, one-day, all British lawn events in
California. Over 500 classic, quirky and thoroughly lovable British cars
are expected to fill Woodley Park in Van Nuys, for the 17th Annual Greater
Los Angeles British Car Meet.
Don't have a show car? Don't worry! Daily drivers, vintage racers, street
rods & works-in-progress are as welcome as Concours quality show cars.
Great British food, live jazz, vendors and more fun than you'll be able to
stand! People's Choice awards will be given in six classes.
There is no preregistration. Cars will be placed on the field at 9:00AM and
the fun goes on all day. The registration fee is only $20 per car, at the
gate. All participants receive a meet memento. Spectators park and attend
free.
Woodley Park is located in Van Nuys, just north of the Ventura Freeway
(101), on Woodley Avenue between Burbank Blvd. and Victory Blvd. From the
San Diego Freeway (405), take the Burbank Blvd. exit west, drive to Woodley
Ave. and turn right. Look for the park entrance to the right.
If you need more information, call: 310-392-6605 or email us at:
rfeibusch@loop.com
From "mel" <mel5 at mindspring.com>
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 10:23:05 -0400
Subject: Door Alighnment
My BJ8 is completely apart and the frame was repaired. Actually, the front
frame cross member was replaced and the frame was welded and strengthened
where needed and both rockers and door strikers have been replaced. The
question I need answered is, does the engine and trans. need to be in the
car to get the doors to fit properly?
Thanks for any help on this.
Mel Brunet
From "Gary & Jan Smith" <gary-jan at exit109.com>
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 10:33:27 -0400
Subject: Re: cranshaft oil restrictor plugs
I find this topic very interesting.
I have heard of "competition" Healeys
that ran very low oil pressure and
never blew up. I looked at the
one crank I have access to now
and it has the restrictors.
As a former MGB racer, I would
try removing them for competition
under the theory that more oil flow
is better. I think that lower than spec
oil pressure at the gauge would
definitely result but this would not
bother someone who know
what was done. In the
old days real racers would try
almost anything for more power
or reliability, and if the motor
blew up they would not do it
a second time. In these times
I do not think this approach is
appropriate for Healeys any more.
Does any competition oriented
owner know what the result
or removing these restrictors is?
Gary Smith
64 and 66 BJ8s
-----Original Message-----
From: costan0@attglobal.net <costan0@attglobal.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, September 14, 2000 10:22 PM
Subject: cranshaft oil restrictor plugs
>
>The MOSS book indicates that the crankshaft should have 6 oil restricter
>plugs in the oil holes. Were these in all the crankshafts because mine has
>none?
>My machinist says to get all the oil you can to the bearings.
>
>
>Jerry
>
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 07:50:15 -0700
Subject: Re: Los Angeles British Meet 2000
I'm planning to go. A friend with Alpine went last year and said it was
a kick. Look for a yellow with black coves BJ7 and license plate "AUSTIN
H"
Can't wait to see those "British" street rods ;)
CYA,
John Loftus
Laguna Beach
"Lane, Jonathan" wrote:
>
> So who's planning on attending this thing? I am hoping to have the Healey
> there but may end up taking my faithful MGB-GT.
>
> If you go, look for a rather scruffy red BN7 with new Moss Carpets and Seats
> or a BRG GT with a MGC hood.
>
> See you there!
>
> Jonathan Lane
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rfeibusch@loop.com [mailto:rfeibusch@loop.com]
> Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2000 9:48 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Cc: R.E.M.I.N.D.E.R@stevie.loop.com
> Subject: Los Angeles British Meet 2000
>
> THE GREATER LOS ANGELES BRITISH CAR MEET
> Sunday, September 24th 2000
> Woodley Park * Van Nuys, California
>
> Be part of one of the biggest, one-day, all British lawn events in
> California. Over 500 classic, quirky and thoroughly lovable British cars
> are expected to fill Woodley Park in Van Nuys, for the 17th Annual Greater
> Los Angeles British Car Meet.
>
> Don't have a show car? Don't worry! Daily drivers, vintage racers, street
> rods & works-in-progress are as welcome as Concours quality show cars.
> Great British food, live jazz, vendors and more fun than you'll be able to
> stand! People's Choice awards will be given in six classes.
>
> There is no preregistration. Cars will be placed on the field at 9:00AM and
> the fun goes on all day. The registration fee is only $20 per car, at the
> gate. All participants receive a meet memento. Spectators park and attend
> free.
>
> Woodley Park is located in Van Nuys, just north of the Ventura Freeway
> (101), on Woodley Avenue between Burbank Blvd. and Victory Blvd. From the
> San Diego Freeway (405), take the Burbank Blvd. exit west, drive to Woodley
> Ave. and turn right. Look for the park entrance to the right.
>
> If you need more information, call: 310-392-6605 or email us at:
> rfeibusch@loop.com
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 09:02:38 -0700
Subject: Re: Steering box
Robert, just for humour sake why not check the olive nut, where the
trafficator wiring comes through the steering box. If its loose the oil will
run down the steering box. Worth a try and it could save you a lot of
time....Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "robert hughes" <dhugh@mail.tscnet.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2000 10:37 PM
Subject: Steering box
>
> Well, I went out into the garage last night and noticed a pool
> (more like a large smear) of oil under the left front corner of
> my BJ8, directly under the steering box. The lower collar of the
> box where the rocker shaft comes through is wet, also. I assume
> that the oil seal has gone. Does anyone know if I can replace
> the seal in the car, or do I have to pull the whole steering
> mechanism out per the manual? Is the oil seal the only part I
> need to replace?
> Thanks,
>
> Robert Hughes
> 1965 BJ8
> Y Ddriag Goch
>
>
From Paul Smiith <texan at dallas.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 11:23:45 -0600
Subject: Can you help?
Hi, I am not a Healey owner, but I'm one who loves to see classic British
automobiles.
I wish I could attend some of those shows you folks are talking about. As a
photographer,
I would have a ball in a place filled with those beauties. Alas, I am now too
old to think
about going.
I have a son living in Nairobi, Kenya. Recently he saw a 1960 Austin Healy
"Sport"
for sale. The owner says "mint" condition, and his asking price is $4,600. My
son
asked me to see if I could find out a ballpark figure for the value of such a
car in
the United States. If it is worth the bother, he would buy it and airfreight
it to the U.S.
He and I will be most grateful for any advice you can give.
Thanks,
Paul Smith -- Cedar Hill, Texas
http://texan.homepage.com
"A Horse of a Different Color"
From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 12:28:13 EDT
Subject: Re: Steering box
This thread has me curious. I was wondering how difficult it would be to
remove the end plate from the steering box. The gasket on mine is shot, but I
have been afraid to take this off and replace it as I don't know what I might
find inside. I guess it all goes back to that time in child hood I decided to
take aprt my alarm clock. The resulting explosion of springs and gears was a
powerful learning experience.
Anyone done this before? Are there any problems with the removal?
TIA
Tim
In a message dated Fri, 15 Sep 2000 12:21:27 PM Eastern Daylight Time, "Neil
Trelenberg" <neilberg@telus.net> writes:
<<
Robert, just for humour sake why not check the olive nut, where the
trafficator wiring comes through the steering box. If its loose the oil will
run down the steering box. Worth a try and it could save you a lot of
time....Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "robert hughes" <dhugh@mail.tscnet.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2000 10:37 PM
Subject: Steering box
>
> Well, I went out into the garage last night and noticed a pool
> (more like a large smear) of oil under the left front corner of
> my BJ8, directly under the steering box. The lower collar of the
> box where the rocker shaft comes through is wet, also. I assume
> that the oil seal has gone. Does anyone know if I can replace
> the seal in the car, or do I have to pull the whole steering
> mechanism out per the manual? Is the oil seal the only part I
> need to replace?
> Thanks,
>
> Robert Hughes
> 1965 BJ8
> Y Ddriag Goch
>
>
>>
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 10:29:34 -0700
Subject: Re: Truck Safety - serious paranoia
Jim,
We were in the UK last week when the LAST Mini rolled off the assembly line to
much fanfare. That night at the local pub in Bath, all the patrons could talk
about was the demise of the "lovely little car". Dangerous or not, you still
see hundreds of them on the wrong side of the road!
Terry
Jim Rowan wrote:
> Was at a Brit car show yesterday and volunteered to drive a friends Mini
> home. I never turn down a chance to drive a Mini! Anyway, on the ride home
> we were
> convoying it in the slow lane, as we should be in 850 Minis, doing 60 mph.
> In the lane to the left
> we had a Shell tanker truck heavily tail-gating some sap gaping at our
> convoy and behind
> us was a line of about 50 military hummers. Thanks to the straight-cut
> gearbox in the mini I was
> driving I couldn't even hear the tanker or hummers. I dislike traveling on
> expressways/tollways
> because too often Brit car convoys become a rolling gapers delay to the
> point I fear causing
> an accident. It especially bad with the Mini's. We had a traveller, a
> pickup, a saloon, and an
> Jag XK140. People come flying up to us and then slam on the brakes to get a
> look. Scary!
>
> Cheers,
> James
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 10:35:37 -0700
Subject: RE: Steering box
It is possible that the bearing balls will fall out if the retainer is not
in good condition. Also if there is a stress on the steering column because
of its alignment, you might have trouble putting the bearing race back in.
You might have no problems but be prepared to take it out of the car if
necessary.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: Healybj8@aol.com [mailto:Healybj8@aol.com]
Sent: Friday, September 15, 2000 9:28 AM
To: neilberg@telus.net; dhugh@mail.tscnet.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Steering box
This thread has me curious. I was wondering how difficult it would be to
remove the end plate from the steering box. The gasket on mine is shot, but
I have been afraid to take this off and replace it as I don't know what I
might find inside. I guess it all goes back to that time in child hood I
decided to take aprt my alarm clock. The resulting explosion of springs and
gears was a powerful learning experience.
Anyone done this before? Are there any problems with the removal?
TIA
Tim
In a message dated Fri, 15 Sep 2000 12:21:27 PM Eastern Daylight Time, "Neil
Trelenberg" <neilberg@telus.net> writes:
<<
Robert, just for humour sake why not check the olive nut, where the
trafficator wiring comes through the steering box. If its loose the oil will
run down the steering box. Worth a try and it could save you a lot of
time....Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "robert hughes" <dhugh@mail.tscnet.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2000 10:37 PM
Subject: Steering box
>
> Well, I went out into the garage last night and noticed a pool
> (more like a large smear) of oil under the left front corner of
> my BJ8, directly under the steering box. The lower collar of the
> box where the rocker shaft comes through is wet, also. I assume
> that the oil seal has gone. Does anyone know if I can replace
> the seal in the car, or do I have to pull the whole steering
> mechanism out per the manual? Is the oil seal the only part I
> need to replace?
> Thanks,
>
> Robert Hughes
> 1965 BJ8
> Y Ddriag Goch
>
>
>>
From hm.heim at t-online.de (Helga & Martin Heim)
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 20:16:01 +0200
Subject: Need spanner size
Hi all,
as I'm now in the stage to put my motor back together and
unfortunately not familiar with all those half/quarter/third etc. of
inches I would like to ask you 'imperial' guys which is the correct
spanner size for the large nut on the crank. And which is the correct
size for the nut to tighten the cam gear ?
Please specify if it's AF or WW. Or is this a stupid question ? Are
all Healey nuts and bolts AF ?
Hope someone can enlighten me.
Best regards
Martin
Germany
From Brian Mix <brianmix at home.com>
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 11:35:37 -0700
Subject: Extra Galley plug???
Hi Guys,
After reassembling the rear of my engine block, (back plate, new rear oil
seal, etc) my mechanic found an "extra" galley plug in the box from the
machine shop.
It is 3/8 of and inch and has a straight screw driver slot in it.
The question is: Does a 4 cylinder Healey block have a spot for a 3/8 plug
under the back plate somewhere???
I can't find one in any of the books, and I think the plug is from some other
poor guys engine that was in the same shop.
Anybody have a 4 cyl block laying around they could look at?
Brian
From "P.M. Pollock" <pollpete at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 11:28:55 -0700
Subject: Re: Steering box
When I rebuilt my box I neglected to have the pitting on the shaft filled,
naively presuming the new seal would ride on the smooth area where the old
seal rode. Sure. So now the box gives a small but steady leak and one
might imagine that the seal could have a short life.
Thus the question. How about taking a Band-Aid approach: fill the box
with grease and rely on the foam ring to catch the seepage? If so, which
grease?
Pete Pollock
BJ7
N. California
Michael Salter wrote:
> robert hughes wrote:
>
> > Well, I went out into the garage last night and noticed a pool
> > (more like a large smear) of oil under the left front corner of
> > my BJ8, directly under the steering box. The lower collar of the
> > box where the rocker shaft comes through is wet, also. I assume
> > that the oil seal has gone. Does anyone know if I can replace
> > the seal in the car, or do I have to pull the whole steering
> > mechanism out per the manual? Is the oil seal the only part I
> > need to replace?
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Robert Hughes
> > 1965 BJ8
> > Y Ddriag Goch
>
> Hi again Robert,
>
> Glad to hear about the solution to your tach problem. The steering box
> will be a little more difficult.
> The bottom seal on the steering box is a real bear to replace. I have
> never tackled it in place although it may be possible.
> We remove the box and replace the seal with a pair of lip seals. Very
> often the shaft is pitted in the area where the seal runs, which of
> course contributes to the leakage problem.
> One of the most difficult tasks is the removal of the steering lever
> from the rocker shaft. These are a tapered spline. We have a special
> puller for the job but they are bloody tight let me tell you.
> Be sure to protect the end of the thread before you start applying any
> force.... it is very easy to crush because it has a couple of split pin
> holes in it.
> Bet of a few hours of work for this one. As I recall we charge it out at
> about 7 hours usually because of the amount of time it takes to remove
> and replace the grille.
> Good luck.
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 15:07:18 -0400
Subject: Re: Steering box
Hey Nel,
I did the same thing...Mine was a Wesclock Big Ben...I was picking up parts of
that sucker for days...However I actually did get it back together with the
assistance of my ever so patient, now departed, Dad.
The end cover of your steering box is not quite as difficult, but none the less
a little tricky.
If you undo the stator cable connectors then remove the stator locking nut and
olive you can remove the end cover. Make sure that you keep everything clean.
You will find that the cover has a thin paper gasket and a bunch of brass shims
under it and a ball bearing race. The shims are used to adjust the end float of
the steering shaft.
We find that the end platees can get ever so slightly bowed, especially if
someone tightens the bolts with too few shims. You should check it for flatness.
I have never been quite able to understand why a paper gasket is used but
hey... I didn't design these things.
I would only change the shim thickness if there is a problem with play.
Like the aforementioned alarm clock assembly can present problems if you are
not careful.
I always very lightly coat each shim with shellac before assembly. Stops leaks
of the kind you are describing. You should be able to tighten the 4 screws by
hand until the end plate is all the way home. If you can't you have something
wrong and using the threads to pull it home will result in large bills for
replacement parts.
Good luck...
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/ (not working at present)
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Healybj8@aol.com wrote:
> This thread has me curious. I was wondering how difficult it would be to
>remove the end plate from the steering box. The gasket on mine is shot, but I
>have been afraid to take this off and replace it as I don't know what I might
>find inside. I guess it all goes back to that time in child hood I decided to
>take aprt my alarm clock. The resulting explosion of springs and gears was a
>powerful learning experience.
>
> Anyone done this before? Are there any problems with the removal?
>
> TIA
>
> Tim
>
> In a message dated Fri, 15 Sep 2000 12:21:27 PM Eastern Daylight Time, "Neil
>Trelenberg" <neilberg@telus.net> writes:
>
> <<
> Robert, just for humour sake why not check the olive nut, where the
> trafficator wiring comes through the steering box. If its loose the oil will
> run down the steering box. Worth a try and it could save you a lot of
> time....Neil
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "robert hughes" <dhugh@mail.tscnet.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2000 10:37 PM
> Subject: Steering box
>
> >
> > Well, I went out into the garage last night and noticed a pool
> > (more like a large smear) of oil under the left front corner of
> > my BJ8, directly under the steering box. The lower collar of the
> > box where the rocker shaft comes through is wet, also. I assume
> > that the oil seal has gone. Does anyone know if I can replace
> > the seal in the car, or do I have to pull the whole steering
> > mechanism out per the manual? Is the oil seal the only part I
> > need to replace?
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Robert Hughes
> > 1965 BJ8
> > Y Ddriag Goch
> >
> >
>
> >>
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 15:10:40 -0400
Subject: Re: Steering box
Hey Nel,
I did the same thing...Mine was a Wesclock Big Ben...I was picking up parts of
that sucker for days...However I actually did get it back together with the
assistance of my ever so patient, now departed, Dad.
The end cover of your steering box is not quite as difficult, but none the less
a little tricky.
If you undo the stator cable connectors then remove the stator locking nut and
olive you can remove the end cover. Make sure that you keep everything clean.
You will find that the cover has a thin paper gasket and a bunch of brass shims
under it and a ball bearing race. The shims are used to adjust the end float of
the steering shaft.
We find that the end platees can get ever so slightly bowed, especially if
someone tightens the bolts with too few shims. You should check it for flatness.
I have never been quite able to understand why a paper gasket is used but
hey... I didn't design these things.
I would only change the shim thickness if there is a problem with play.
Like the aforementioned alarm clock assembly can present problems if you are
not careful.
I always very lightly coat each shim with shellac before assembly. Stops leaks
of the kind you are describing. You should be able to tighten the 4 screws by
hand until the end plate is all the way home. If you can't, you have something
wrong and using the threads to pull it home will result in large bills for
replacement parts.
Good luck...
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/ (not working at present)
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Healybj8@aol.com wrote:
> This thread has me curious. I was wondering how difficult it would be to
>remove the end plate from the steering box. The gasket on mine is shot, but I
>have been afraid to take this off and replace it as I don't know what I might
>find inside. I guess it all goes back to that time in child hood I decided to
>take aprt my alarm clock. The resulting explosion of springs and gears was a
>powerful learning experience.
>
> Anyone done this before? Are there any problems with the removal?
>
> TIA
>
> Tim
>
> In a message dated Fri, 15 Sep 2000 12:21:27 PM Eastern Daylight Time, "Neil
>Trelenberg" <neilberg@telus.net> writes:
>
> <<
> Robert, just for humour sake why not check the olive nut, where the
> trafficator wiring comes through the steering box. If its loose the oil will
> run down the steering box. Worth a try and it could save you a lot of
> time....Neil
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "robert hughes" <dhugh@mail.tscnet.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2000 10:37 PM
> Subject: Steering box
>
> >
> > Well, I went out into the garage last night and noticed a pool
> > (more like a large smear) of oil under the left front corner of
> > my BJ8, directly under the steering box. The lower collar of the
> > box where the rocker shaft comes through is wet, also. I assume
> > that the oil seal has gone. Does anyone know if I can replace
> > the seal in the car, or do I have to pull the whole steering
> > mechanism out per the manual? Is the oil seal the only part I
> > need to replace?
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Robert Hughes
> > 1965 BJ8
> > Y Ddriag Goch
> >
> >
>
> >>
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 15:13:34 EDT
Subject: Wheel Bounce--continued
Having been encouraged by several listers to pull the front hub myself I set
to it this morning. After removing the crown nut and washer I began to
employ some of the methods suggested--two broomsticks, prybars, banging
outward on knockoff--all with no success. I finally drilled and tapped an
old knockoff for a piece of 1/2" all-thread and pushed the hub off with
relative ease.
The good news is that the outer bearing was definitely shot and the source of
both the wheel wobble and funky noises, and I had a replacement on hand. The
bad news is that the inner race of the inner bearing was frozen to the swivel
axle, and I had to destroy the inner oil seal, drive out the outer race and
assemble the bearing on the axle, then fit the hub without being able to
replace the seal.
Needless to say, even with a new outer bearing the wheel does not sound quite
right, and I cannot drive it because of the missing seal.
So, after 4 hours of work I am back where I started: Headed for the mechanic
on a trailer Monday, but it certainly was a learning experience.
My sincere thanks to those who suggested that I make the attempt.
Michael, BN1
From rscaglione at safjp.gov.ar
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 16:13:33 -0300
Subject: Change from miles to kilometers
Hi:
To any of the list that could help me
Now, facing to restor my BJ8 dashboard, I've realized that would be
convenient for me to change my original speedometer into kilometers instead
of miles. ( I am not in USA).
I would like to know if there is an easy and cheap procedure to make that
change. (optimist guy).
I will appreciate any cooperation
Thanks
Rob
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 16:11:08 -0400
Subject: Re: Wheel Bounce--continued
Aren't you glad that you don't do this for a living!!!! ;-)
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/ (not working at present)
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> Having been encouraged by several listers to pull the front hub myself I set
> to it this morning. After removing the crown nut and washer I began to
> employ some of the methods suggested--two broomsticks, prybars, banging
> outward on knockoff--all with no success. I finally drilled and tapped an
> old knockoff for a piece of 1/2" all-thread and pushed the hub off with
> relative ease.
>
> The good news is that the outer bearing was definitely shot and the source of
> both the wheel wobble and funky noises, and I had a replacement on hand. The
> bad news is that the inner race of the inner bearing was frozen to the swivel
> axle, and I had to destroy the inner oil seal, drive out the outer race and
> assemble the bearing on the axle, then fit the hub without being able to
> replace the seal.
>
> Needless to say, even with a new outer bearing the wheel does not sound quite
> right, and I cannot drive it because of the missing seal.
> So, after 4 hours of work I am back where I started: Headed for the mechanic
> on a trailer Monday, but it certainly was a learning experience.
> My sincere thanks to those who suggested that I make the attempt.
>
> Michael, BN1
From francois wildi <fwildi at yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 13:13:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: ah3000 (BJ7) exhaust fasteners
Hi,
I am putting on a new exhaust on an healey that has had new
outriggers fitted. Therefore, there is no trace of where and how the
exhaust was originally fitted.
I have a Falcon SS exhaust and the right mountings with rubber, but I
do not know where I am supposed to bolt the them. I do not know where
I'd put the nuts I case I had to drill the outriggers.
Can anyoune help?
Thanks in advance
Francois
__________________________________________________
Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!
From GLOWNSDALE at aol.com
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 16:42:43 EDT
Subject: Re: Truck Safety - serious paranoia
We recently experienced Large Truck Safety Paranoia up close and personal.
last Sunday, we were returning from a Healey club outing in Chattanooga on
I-75. A semi-trailer rig passed the lead Healey, which my wife was driving
and lost a rear tire from the rim. The tire smacked the Healey in the left
front, bending the bumper, shroud, and fender back into the tire and locking
the steering wheel in one position. My son and I were following closely
behind in his Sprite and narrowly missed the tire when it unwrapped and flew
toward him. Autocross experience does pay off !! His high speed chicane
maneuver saved his car from incurring damage as well. We watched as an SUV
also made a rather dangerous maneuver to avois the tire.
The good news is that my wife was able to bring the Healey to a safe stop and
no-one was injured. The bad news is that her beloved Teal Blue Healey, which
many of you know she has had since 1975, is bent and now sitting at a repair
shop.
So, when someone talks about large truck paranoia, believe it! An 85 pound
tire hitting an aluminum shroud on a Healey makes a nasty sound and leaves a
terrible black mark on the car. Fortunately, we did not have to test the
Triplex windscreen. I would shudder to think of those consequences.
We wish that none of you will face a similar experience in your Healeys.
Best regards,
Gary Lownsdale
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 16:58:41 EDT
Subject: Re: Truck Safety - serious paranoia
In a message dated 9/15/00 4:46:46 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
GLOWNSDALE@aol.com writes:
<< We recently experienced Large Truck Safety Paranoia up close and personal.
last Sunday, we were returning from a Healey club outing in Chattanooga on
I-75. A semi-trailer rig passed the lead Healey, which my wife was driving
and lost a rear tire from the rim. >>
Gary--
Last Saturday I was driving across the Chesapeake Bay Bridge while returning
from a Capital Club Healey Club event on Maryland's Eastern Shore (plug!).
An SUV was about 200' in front of me when all of a sudden his right rear
tire entirely self-destructed, leaving him running on the wheel itself!
Luckily the tire, which was literally smoking, got hung up in the bridge
superstructure and I passed it safely. I shudder to think what it would have
done to my car had it worked out otherwise. BTW--I did not get the tire's
brand...
Michael
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 17:17:55 -0400
Subject: Rear end low
After running over a dead possum and dragging him over half our Hounds and
Hare rally course this weekend, I've decided that I have to get the rear end
a little higher off the ground. A 2X4 would be an insurmountable object if
it wasn't lying on its side!
My Michelin 185 series tires are brand new and look cool; however, I've got
to get another inch under the frame or there won't be one soon. A guy from
Norfolk had a tall set of Swedish tires on the back of his Healey at the
Shore 2 Shore 2000 CAAHC rendezvous last weekend, but I've lost his name and
card.
Anybody have recommendations? (Avoiding dead possums won't be much help!)
Lee
'62 BT7 Tri-carb
From Paul Smiith <texan at dallas.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 16:14:22 -0600
Subject: Thanks, everybody!
Many thanks to all who came back promptly with good information. I forwarded
several
of your emails to my son in Nairobi.
Paul Smith
http://texan.homepage.com
"A Horse of a Different Color"
From "Donald L. Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 16:23:50 -0500
Subject: Truck Safety (et al)
Gary Lownsdale's experience with a tire unraveling from a truck and damaging
his wife's AH brought to mind a misadventure that happened to me. His note
about the windshield is what brought unpleasant memories racing back into
this old befuddled mind.
I was on the 605 (San Gabriel River) Freeway northbound in 1976 on my way
home from work. A lumber truck was ahead of me. Suddenly a 4 x 8 sheet of
1/2 " plywood got airborne and came right at my windshield. Had I continued
at the rate of speed I was driving, the plywood no doubt would have gone
through the windshield and probably decapitated me. I stomped on the gas
pedal and thank God the Old Red Devil responded with a quick burst and the
plywood hit the cross piece on top of my windshield a glancing blow and the
last I saw of it was when it hit the pavement behind me and was immediately
hit by another truck.
The only thing that happened to my Austin Healey was a cracked windshield
that I was able to replace for the paltry sum of $75. I consider myself
extremely lucky and have said silent prayers in thanks many times since
then. As a matter of fact I just said one before I started writing this.
Don
BN7
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 17:19:31 -0500
Subject: Rubber rubble
Hi,
As part of my BJ8 restoration I purchased a new fuel flex line that goes
between the two carbs. I happened to look at it today and noticed that the
rubber end caps had cracked and turned into an intricate mosaic of hardened
rubber with particles lying around on the carbs. This within four months
of installation.
I recently went through this with all the steering boots; brand new rubber
disintegrating after a year of being installed (and not even flexed). Is
this the way it is with replacement rubber parts for our cars or have I just
been shopping at the wrong stores?
If anyone has a source of good rubber bits, I'd really love to hear.
Thanks,
Adnan
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 17:29:41 -0500
Subject: RE: Steering box
I used Penrite Steering Box Lube (thick as taffy and took a week to fill up,
bit by bit). Haven't driven the car but from the way the goo looked, I
have high expectations. Perry has used STP oil treatment with excellent
results.
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: P.M. Pollock [mailto:pollpete@ix.netcom.com]
Sent: Friday, September 15, 2000 11:29 AM
To: Michael Salter
Cc: robert hughes; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Steering box
When I rebuilt my box I neglected to have the pitting on the shaft filled,
naively presuming the new seal would ride on the smooth area where the old
seal rode. Sure. So now the box gives a small but steady leak and one
might imagine that the seal could have a short life.
Thus the question. How about taking a Band-Aid approach: fill the box
with grease and rely on the foam ring to catch the seepage? If so, which
grease?
Pete Pollock
BJ7
N. California
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 19:02:54 -0400
Subject: Re: Rubber rubble
Hi, Adnan, and welcome back!
I, too, have been amazed and disappointed at how quickly some of the
replacement rubber parts self-destruct -- even without actual use. I can't
understand why anyone would go to the trouble and expense to reproduce the
original moulds, and then use a cheap quality rubber. I don't have any
specific recommendations, just the observation. I'm tempted to say that the
bad stuff comes from third world countries, but I don't have any proof.
Most of the parts that I get from the usual suppliers that have Made in UK
labels are good quality.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
HBJ7L/20111
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: Merchant, Adnan <Adnan.Merchant@mkg.com>
To: 'healeys@Autox.team.net' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, September 15, 2000 6:33 PM
Subject: Rubber rubble
>
>Hi,
>
>As part of my BJ8 restoration I purchased a new fuel flex line that goes
>between the two carbs. I happened to look at it today and noticed that
the
>rubber end caps had cracked and turned into an intricate mosaic of hardened
>rubber with particles lying around on the carbs. This within four months
>of installation.
>
>I recently went through this with all the steering boots; brand new rubber
>disintegrating after a year of being installed (and not even flexed). Is
>this the way it is with replacement rubber parts for our cars or have I
just
>been shopping at the wrong stores?
>
>If anyone has a source of good rubber bits, I'd really love to hear.
>
>Thanks,
>Adnan
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 20:36:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Change from miles to kilometers
Hola, Roberto!
I think you have in mind to replace the faceplate of your speedo with one in
KPH, but here's what I did once on my '69 Dodge Charger when I was taking it
deep into Mexico: I calculated the proper locations on the speedo glass and
cut thin strips of electrical tape to stick on the glass and show me where
the proper kph's were. If you're looking for an easy and cheap procedure,
asi es!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
HBJ7L/20111
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: rscaglione@safjp.gov.ar <rscaglione@safjp.gov.ar>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, September 15, 2000 3:54 PM
Subject: Change from miles to kilometers
>
>Hi:
>To any of the list that could help me
>Now, facing to restor my BJ8 dashboard, I've realized that would be
>convenient for me to change my original speedometer into kilometers instead
>of miles. ( I am not in USA).
>I would like to know if there is an easy and cheap procedure to make that
>change. (optimist guy).
>I will appreciate any cooperation
>Thanks
>Rob
>
From "Michael Lempert" <mdlempert at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 17:56:51 -0400
Subject: Re: Rear end low
Hello Lee. I guess dead possums should be easier to avoid than live ones,
but that's not the issue. You didn't say what profile you had on the 185
size tires. I have 185/70SR15 Vredestein Sprints on my BT7 all round. The
ride height seems fine. Are you sure your springs are okay ?
While traveling out in CA last year I stopped by the Nock's and had tires
put on my BN2. They're Goodyear Eagle GT P195/70R15 and fill the rear wheel
wells nicely. A 195/70 will have a higher wall height than a 185/70.
Unfortunately they were too much for the front as the rubbing was excessive.
Regards,
Mike L.
>After running over a dead possum and dragging him over half our Hounds and
>Hare rally course this weekend, I've decided that I have to get the rear
end
>a little higher off the ground. A 2X4 would be an insurmountable object if
>it wasn't lying on its side!
>My Michelin 185 series tires are brand new and look cool; however, I've got
>to get another inch under the frame or there won't be one soon. A guy from
>Norfolk had a tall set of Swedish tires on the back of his Healey at the
>Shore 2 Shore 2000 CAAHC rendezvous last weekend, but I've lost his name
and
>card.
>Anybody have recommendations? (Avoiding dead possums won't be much help!)
>Lee
>'62 BT7 Tri-carb
From Peter Brauen <pbrauen at telepak.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 20:23:39 -0500
Subject: Re: cranshaft oil restrictor plugs
Hi all,
I would not remove the restrictors without installing a high flow oil
pump. You do not want to oversupply the rod bearings at the expense of the
valve train. As the rod bearings wear, and they will eventually, regardless
of flow, more and more pressure will be lost resulting in accelerated wear
in the rest of the engine. I'm no engine designer, but I suspect the
restrictors are precisely to limit that occurrence.
Peter (BMC Restorations)
-----Original Message-----
From: Gary & Jan Smith <gary-jan@exit109.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>;
costan0@attglobal.net <costan0@attglobal.net>
Date: Friday, September 15, 2000 9:52 AM
Subject: Re: cranshaft oil restrictor plugs
I find this topic very interesting.
I have heard of "competition" Healeys
that ran very low oil pressure and
never blew up. I looked at the
one crank I have access to now
and it has the restrictors.
As a former MGB racer, I would
try removing them for competition
under the theory that more oil flow
is better. I think that lower than spec
oil pressure at the gauge would
definitely result but this would not
bother someone who know
what was done. In the
old days real racers would try
almost anything for more power
or reliability, and if the motor
blew up they would not do it
a second time. In these times
I do not think this approach is
appropriate for Healeys any more.
Does any competition oriented
owner know what the result
or removing these restrictors is?
Gary Smith
64 and 66 BJ8s
-----Original Message-----
From: costan0@attglobal.net <costan0@attglobal.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, September 14, 2000 10:22 PM
Subject: cranshaft oil restrictor plugs
>
>The MOSS book indicates that the crankshaft should have 6 oil
restricter
>plugs in the oil holes. Were these in all the crankshafts because mine
has
>none?
>My machinist says to get all the oil you can to the bearings.
>
>
>Jerry
>
From Peter Brauen <pbrauen at telepak.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 19:58:49 -0500
Subject: Re: Need spanner size
Hi Martin,
While a good selection of SAE and Whitworth wrenches are essential to
working on your Healey, the larger the nut, the less important the exact
size is. Simply measure across the flats of the nut (in millimeters if you
wish) and order that size socket from a local tool supplier. My personal
preference is for six-sided sockets and spanners, as they are less likely to
round off the nut if not exactly sized. Good luck!
Peter (BMC Restorations)
-----Original Message-----
From: Helga & Martin Heim <hm.heim@t-online.de>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, September 15, 2000 1:44 PM
Subject: Need spanner size
Hi all,
as I'm now in the stage to put my motor back together and
unfortunately not familiar with all those half/quarter/third etc. of
inches I would like to ask you 'imperial' guys which is the correct
spanner size for the large nut on the crank. And which is the correct
size for the nut to tighten the cam gear ?
Please specify if it's AF or WW. Or is this a stupid question ? Are
all Healey nuts and bolts AF ?
Hope someone can enlighten me.
Best regards
Martin
Germany
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 22:47:59 -0400
Subject: Door alignment
Mel,
Since somewhat major welding was done to the frame,taking that into
consideration I would provide weight to the engine compartment or the
engine/tranny installed. If the suspention is on the car either leave it on
the wheels or place the four hubs ( w/ protection to the splines) on the
jackstands so the frame is at its natural stance. The cars were orig.
assembled and painted at the same time then engine installed. The doors are
fairly easy to align. I stress the fact of placing stands on the hubs
rather than the frame because of distortion, once you ajust the doors, let
it down, the frame will naturally settle and your doors won't shut.
Good luck Carroll ( Top Down Restorations)
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 23:08:21 -0400
Subject: grease in steering box
Pete,
The problem with filling the steering box with grease is twofold. First,
unless you drill and tap the lower collar for a grease fitting there is no
way grease will reach the bushing. Secondly, the moving parts inside
the steering box will push the grease to the limit of their travel, leaving
the working surfaces unlubricated.
If you leak is minor a better band-aid might be STP in the box instead
of gear oil, which will get to where oil needs to go but will probably just
slow the leak down. The only sure cure is resurfacing the shaft.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
>Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 11:28:55 -0700
>From: "P.M. Pollock" <pollpete@ix.netcom.com>
>Subject: Re: Steering box
>When I rebuilt my box I neglected to have the pitting on the shaft filled,
>naively presuming the new seal would ride on the smooth area where >the old
>seal rode. Sure. So now the box gives a small but steady leak and one
>might imagine that the seal could have a short life.
>Thus the question. How about taking a Band-Aid approach: fill the >box with
grease and rely on the foam ring to catch the seepage? If so, >which grease?
>Pete Pollock
>BJ7
>N. California
From rfeibusch at loop.com (Richard Feibusch)
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 20:40:47 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: BATTLE OF BRITAIN 2000
BATTLE OF BRITAIN 2000
60th Anniversary Celebration
The Museum of Flying in Santa Monica, California
ANNUAL ALL BRITISH CAR SHOW on OCTOBER 1st. 2000
You are invited to join other British Car Owners in supporting the Museum
of Flying and the Royal Air Force Benevolent Fund in this annual All
British Car Show. This year is a special event to honor the flyers and
planes that took part in the Battle of Britain.
There will be a full day of events including flying demonstrations by
aircraft including Spitfires, a Messerchmitt Bf-109e, Hawker Hurricane and
Tiger Moth. Registration fee includes admission to the Museum.
Pre-registration is required to ensure that there will be spaces for all
who attend. To prevent congestion when the museum opens it's doors to the
public, all cars must be on site by 9.30 a.m. Exhibition will be in the
museum front parking lot, buildings and airport apron. Unfortunately due to
time and space constraints cars cannot be grouped by marque. There are
plans to offer photographs of your car next to a Spitfire, so please plan
to be on site early. The success of this event depends on you.
There will be awards given by the event sponsors for unique examples of
various marques, but there will be no concours judging. Daily drivers are
appreciated, the idea is to have fun and meet other owners.
The event is limited to the first 200 vehicles, so please fill out the
information below and mail or fax with credit card payment only to:
Kelvin Dodd
Moss Motors
P.O. Box 847
Goleta, CA 93117
fax: 805-692-2520
For further information please call: 800-235-6954 X 3023
*********************************************************
PRE-REGISTRATION FORM
BATTLE OF BRITAIN 2000
60th Anniversary
At the Museum of Flying in Santa Monica, CA.
OCTOBER 1st, 2000
CAR SHOW SPONSORED BY MOSS MOTORS.
With the support of the Southern California MG Club.
PRE-REGISTRATION FORM
Name _______________________________
Address _______________________________
City, State, Zip ____________________________
Telephone _______________________________
e-mail (if avail.) __________________________
Car Make, Model, Yr__________________________
Interesting Points __________________________
_____________________________________________
_____________________________________________
Club Affiliations ___________________________
_____________________________________________
Registration Fee. $20.00 per car.
Includes admission to the museum
Make check payable to:
The Museum of Flying
Mail to:
Kelvin Dodd
Moss Motors
P.O. Box 847
Goleta, CA 93117
Or:
MC VISA DISC AMEX _____________________
Exp. _____________________
fax. 805-692-2520
Please do not e-mail credit card information.
PROCEEDS BENEFIT:
THE MUSEUM OF FLYING and THE RAF BENEVOLENT FUND
From "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 20:48:45 -0700
Subject: Re: cranshaft oil restrictor plugs
What do these oil restrictors plugs look like. I have my engine apart
and I do not have anything in the oil holes. As a matter of fact the
oil holes in the crankshaft journals have been "radiused" (sp) for
better oiling.
----- Original Message -----
From: Peter Brauen <pbrauen@telepak.net>
To: Gary & Jan Smith <gary-jan@exit109.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 15, 2000 6:23 PM
Subject: Re: cranshaft oil restrictor plugs
>
> Hi all,
> I would not remove the restrictors without installing a high
flow oil
> pump. You do not want to oversupply the rod bearings at the expense
of the
> valve train. As the rod bearings wear, and they will eventually,
regardless
> of flow, more and more pressure will be lost resulting in
accelerated wear
> in the rest of the engine. I'm no engine designer, but I suspect the
> restrictors are precisely to limit that occurrence.
> Peter (BMC Restorations)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gary & Jan Smith <gary-jan@exit109.com>
> To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>;
> costan0@attglobal.net <costan0@attglobal.net>
> Date: Friday, September 15, 2000 9:52 AM
> Subject: Re: cranshaft oil restrictor plugs
>
>
>
> I find this topic very interesting.
> I have heard of "competition" Healeys
> that ran very low oil pressure and
> never blew up. I looked at the
> one crank I have access to now
> and it has the restrictors.
>
> As a former MGB racer, I would
> try removing them for competition
> under the theory that more oil flow
> is better. I think that lower than spec
> oil pressure at the gauge would
> definitely result but this would not
> bother someone who know
> what was done. In the
> old days real racers would try
> almost anything for more power
> or reliability, and if the motor
> blew up they would not do it
> a second time. In these times
> I do not think this approach is
> appropriate for Healeys any more.
>
> Does any competition oriented
> owner know what the result
> or removing these restrictors is?
>
> Gary Smith
> 64 and 66 BJ8s
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: costan0@attglobal.net <costan0@attglobal.net>
> To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Thursday, September 14, 2000 10:22 PM
> Subject: cranshaft oil restrictor plugs
>
>
> >
> >The MOSS book indicates that the crankshaft should have 6 oil
> restricter
> >plugs in the oil holes. Were these in all the crankshafts
because mine
> has
> >none?
> >My machinist says to get all the oil you can to the bearings.
> >
> >
> >Jerry
> >
>
>
From "jack_rosen" <jack_rosen at hotmail.com>
Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 03:00:19 -0400
Subject: Re: Rubber rubble
Maybe it's the Andromeda Strain.
jr
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 15, 2000 7:02 PM
Subject: Re: Rubber rubble
>
> Hi, Adnan, and welcome back!
>
> I, too, have been amazed and disappointed at how quickly some of the
> replacement rubber parts self-destruct -- even without actual use. I
can't
> understand why anyone would go to the trouble and expense to reproduce the
> original moulds, and then use a cheap quality rubber. I don't have any
> specific recommendations, just the observation. I'm tempted to say that
the
> bad stuff comes from third world countries, but I don't have any proof.
> Most of the parts that I get from the usual suppliers that have Made in UK
> labels are good quality.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> HBJ7L/20111
> Havelock, NC USA
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Merchant, Adnan <Adnan.Merchant@mkg.com>
> To: 'healeys@Autox.team.net' <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Friday, September 15, 2000 6:33 PM
> Subject: Rubber rubble
>
>
> >
> >Hi,
> >
> >As part of my BJ8 restoration I purchased a new fuel flex line that goes
> >between the two carbs. I happened to look at it today and noticed that
> the
> >rubber end caps had cracked and turned into an intricate mosaic of
hardened
> >rubber with particles lying around on the carbs. This within four
months
> >of installation.
> >
> >I recently went through this with all the steering boots; brand new
rubber
> >disintegrating after a year of being installed (and not even flexed).
Is
> >this the way it is with replacement rubber parts for our cars or have I
> just
> >been shopping at the wrong stores?
> >
> >If anyone has a source of good rubber bits, I'd really love to hear.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Adnan
>
>
From "JISah102" <ah102 at home.com>
Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 08:21:48 -0400
Subject: Re: Rear end low
New springs or add a leaf.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: Lee S. Mairs <lmairs@ix.netcom.com>
To: Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 15, 2000 5:17 PM
Subject: Rear end low
>
> After running over a dead possum and dragging him over half our Hounds and
> Hare rally course this weekend, I've decided that I have to get the rear
end
> a little higher off the ground. A 2X4 would be an insurmountable object
if
> it wasn't lying on its side!
> My Michelin 185 series tires are brand new and look cool; however, I've
got
> to get another inch under the frame or there won't be one soon. A guy
from
> Norfolk had a tall set of Swedish tires on the back of his Healey at the
> Shore 2 Shore 2000 CAAHC rendezvous last weekend, but I've lost his name
and
> card.
> Anybody have recommendations? (Avoiding dead possums won't be much help!)
> Lee
> '62 BT7 Tri-carb
>
>
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at connect.comdek.net.au>
Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 20:49:40 +0800
Subject: Re: Rubber rubble
Afraid that's not allways the case Steve.
My steering linkage rubbers came from the old country and were installed
only 4 months ago. They are already showing signs of perishing and the car
is still on the stands.
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
BT7 in resto
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Byers <byers@cconnect.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 16, 2000 7:02 AM
Subject: Re: Rubber rubble
>
> Hi, Adnan, and welcome back!
>
> I, too, have been amazed and disappointed at how quickly some of the
> replacement rubber parts self-destruct -- even without actual use. I
can't
> understand why anyone would go to the trouble and expense to reproduce the
> original moulds, and then use a cheap quality rubber. I don't have any
> specific recommendations, just the observation. I'm tempted to say that
the
> bad stuff comes from third world countries, but I don't have any proof.
> Most of the parts that I get from the usual suppliers that have Made in UK
> labels are good quality.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> HBJ7L/20111
> Havelock, NC USA
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Merchant, Adnan <Adnan.Merchant@mkg.com>
> To: 'healeys@Autox.team.net' <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Friday, September 15, 2000 6:33 PM
> Subject: Rubber rubble
>
>
> >
> >Hi,
> >
> >As part of my BJ8 restoration I purchased a new fuel flex line that goes
> >between the two carbs. I happened to look at it today and noticed that
> the
> >rubber end caps had cracked and turned into an intricate mosaic of
hardened
> >rubber with particles lying around on the carbs. This within four
months
> >of installation.
> >
> >I recently went through this with all the steering boots; brand new
rubber
> >disintegrating after a year of being installed (and not even flexed).
Is
> >this the way it is with replacement rubber parts for our cars or have I
> just
> >been shopping at the wrong stores?
> >
> >If anyone has a source of good rubber bits, I'd really love to hear.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Adnan
>
>
From rfeibusch at loop.com (Richard Feibusch)
Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 09:44:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: 21st Annual San Diego British Car Day
The 21st Annual San Diego British Car Day
Sunday, October 1, 2000, 10:00am to 2:00pm
Fairbrook Farm,
4949 South Mission Road
Bonsall, California
This beautiful site offers the perfect setting to display your pride and
joy, and see hundreds of other fine British cars. Bring your own picnic
lunch, or enjoy the food offered by food vendor. Numerous regalia, parts
and hobby related vendors will be on hand to tempt your pocketbook.
This year's raffle will feature the best prizes ever!!!! A portion of this
year's raffle proceeds will be divided amongst 3 local charities.
Pre-Registration is $10.00 Day-of-Show Registration is $15.00, "Walk-in" is
$2.00. Your advance registration not only saves you $5.00, but also gains
you "express admittance!" Registration and Entrance beginning at 9:00am.
To get to Fairbrook Farm, take Hwy 76 east from Interstate 5, or Hwy 76
west from Interstate 15. Turn north on South Mission Road, proceed north .4
mile.
For more information contact Steve Kirby at: DKirby210@aol.com
We do have a web site!!!
Check out http://www.sandiegobritishcarday.org/
Or call:
Steve 760-746-9028
Maggie 858-566-6619
Joe 909-693-9094
Paul 619-575-5625
From "Eyvind Larssen" <seel at online.no>
Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 18:54:09 +0200
Subject: SV: Truck Safety - feel free to delete..
> Gary Lownsdale's experience with a tire unraveling from a truck and damaging
> his wife's AH brought to mind a misadventure that happened to me.
> A lumber truck was ahead of me. Suddenly a 4 x 8 sheet of
> 1/2 " plywood got airborne and came right at my windshield.
Oh well... it might happen in other cars too..... I got my head injured by a
rock comming loose from a lumber truck. We were doing 40 mph.... meeting with a
truck doing 40 mph.. when all of a sudden the truck lost a 7 lbs stone. The
stone hit the road...the windshield..... the top of my head.. and came to a
holt in the backseat. Still has the stone on my mantelpiece.. kinda morbid..
huh?
Got myself three hrs. on the operation table... and one night at intensive care.
Oh well.... trucks... be VERY afraid.......
Eyvind Larssen 60BT7.
From "Eyvind Larssen" <seel at online.no>
Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 19:01:31 +0200
Subject: SV: Rubber rubble
Subject: Re: Rubber rubble
Rubber disintegration usually comes from age.
All rubber will age. Really.. it should be stamped ; "best before......". Could
be that the rubber has been subjected to years of light and air on a dusty
shelf before it hits the end-user.
Eyvind Larssen 60BT7
From "Ron Schonscheck" <schonny at y2consult.com>
Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 03:04:09 -0600
Subject: Re: Rubber rubble
I've had exactly the same problem with that fuel hose too.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant@mkg.com>
To: "'healeys@Autox.team.net'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 15, 2000 4:19 PM
Subject: Rubber rubble
>
> Hi,
>
> As part of my BJ8 restoration I purchased a new fuel flex line that goes
> between the two carbs. I happened to look at it today and noticed that
the
> rubber end caps had cracked and turned into an intricate mosaic of
hardened
> rubber with particles lying around on the carbs. This within four months
> of installation.
>
> I recently went through this with all the steering boots; brand new rubber
> disintegrating after a year of being installed (and not even flexed). Is
> this the way it is with replacement rubber parts for our cars or have I
just
> been shopping at the wrong stores?
>
> If anyone has a source of good rubber bits, I'd really love to hear.
>
> Thanks,
> Adnan
>
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 16:52:26 -0400
Subject: RE: ah3000 (BJ7) exhaust fasteners
Francois,
Here's where mine are:
Front:
Bolted to the floor with the rubber block 1 1/4" behind the
outrigger, 8 1/2" from the frame rail (to the inboard side of the
rubber block.
Middle:
Bolted to the outrigger with the rubber block 10" from the frame
rail.
Rear:
Bolted to the diagonal part of the rear cross member 2 1/2" outboard
of the frame rail (on the diagonal).
Before installing the middle and rear brackets, I would recommend that
you layout the exhaust system and see how the parts will line up.
When I installed a Falcon system on my car I found that the attachment
points were not in the same places as those on the old system.
I had to improvise a bit with some extra bits to make the pipes
line up properly.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of francois wildi
Sent: Friday, September 15, 2000 4:13 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: ah3000 (BJ7) exhaust fasteners
Hi,
I am putting on a new exhaust on an healey that has had new
outriggers fitted. Therefore, there is no trace of where and how the
exhaust was originally fitted.
I have a Falcon SS exhaust and the right mountings with rubber, but I
do not know where I am supposed to bolt the them. I do not know where
I'd put the nuts I case I had to drill the outriggers.
Can anyoune help?
Thanks in advance
Francois
__________________________________________________
Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 17:28:28 EDT
Subject: Re: Truck Safety - serious paranoia
List,
We need to be asking the NHTSA and our legislators why we need to be putting
up with this hazard on our highways!!! Surely technology is available to
manufacture truck tires that don't disintegrate. Or, inspections could be
required by truckers to change out tires before they wear to a point of
disintegration. I've never thought about this hazard when drive my Healey
before. I frequently see pieces of truck tire on and along the freeway.
<<
We recently experienced Large Truck Safety Paranoia up close and personal.
last Sunday, we were returning from a Healey club outing in Chattanooga on
I-75. A semi-trailer rig passed the lead Healey, which my wife was driving
and lost a rear tire from the rim. The tire smacked the Healey in the left
front, bending the bumper, shroud, and fender back into the tire and locking
the steering wheel in one position. My son and I were following closely
behind in his Sprite and narrowly missed the tire when it unwrapped and flew
toward him. Autocross experience does pay off !! His high speed chicane
maneuver saved his car from incurring damage as well. We watched as an SUV
also made a rather dangerous maneuver to avois the tire. >>
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 22:04:49 -0400
Subject: Re: Door Alighnment
Mel,
In my opinion the engine and tranny should have been in place for all the
fram work except maybe the front frame crossmember. No special need for
them to fit the floors.
Keith Pennell
----- Original Message -----
From: mel <mel5@mindspring.com>
To: healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 15, 2000 10:23 AM
Subject: Door Alighnment
>
> My BJ8 is completely apart and the frame was repaired. Actually, the front
> frame cross member was replaced and the frame was welded and strengthened
> where needed and both rockers and door strikers have been replaced. The
> question I need answered is, does the engine and trans. need to be in the
> car to get the doors to fit properly?
>
> Thanks for any help on this.
>
> Mel Brunet
>
>
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 23:26:14 -0700
Subject: Re: pinging under load
Most Chevrons and all Petro-Canada's in Canada. With 94 I never get any
pinging in any gear, even lugging in 3rd....Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Allen Edwards" <allen@allen-edwards.com>
To: "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg@telus.net>
Cc: "Donald L. Yarber" <dyarber@dynasty.net>; "Healey List"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 15, 2000 9:05 PM
Subject: Re: pinging under load
> Where do you get 94 octane?
>
> Neil Trelenberg wrote:
> >
> > On my car I gave it a tune-up, valves adjusted, carbs setup, plugs
cleaned
> > and adjusted and then static timed it. It pings with everthing but the
> > highest octane gas. I try to use 94 if I can get it 92 if not, anything
else
> > rattles on accelertation. I have been retarded for as long as I can
> > remember, remember....what was I talking about. Well that's my opinion
> > and......I can't remember...Neil
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Donald L. Yarber" <dyarber@dynasty.net>
> > To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2000 9:02 AM
> > Subject: pinging under load
> >
> > >
> > > This question goes to the list because I'm getting conflicting info
from
> > > people (not Healey mechanics) but other mechanics.
> > >
> > > I have got the Old Red Devil running pretty good. (Except now my
> > overdrive
> > > doesn't work again). It is still pinging, however, under load. Not
when
> > I
> > > take off in low, nor when I shift to second, but usually when I shift
to
> > > third or fourth it pings a little before taking thrust.
> > >
> > > I've asked some local back alley mechanics and a couple of guys who
call
> > > themselves mechanics, but none are familiar with Austin Healeys.
> > >
> > > Some say it's just the low octane gas. Some say to retard the timing
> > more,
> > > some say it's too far retarded. I'm beginning to think I'm the one
who is
> > > retarded.
> > >
> > > What say you, list?????
> > >
> > > Don
> > > BN7
> > >
> > >
>
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 08:34:03 -0400
Subject: Re: Truck Safety - serious paranoia
List -
I suggest we leave well enough alone.
How about those folks who will appeal to the NHTSA to get those small cars
off the road that don't have collapsible steering wheels, seat belts, air
bags, catalytic converters and the myriad of other safety items and
anti-ozone layer depletion devices installed?
People drive at their own risk - some safe, some unsafe. I for one do not
want to give away my ability to choose the level of risk I wish to assume.
Are you ready for some bureaucratic dweeb to tell you what must be done to
your precious Healey before you can drive it on the highway?
Not me.
Lee Mairs
'62 BT7 Tri-carb
(w/o lots of now dictated safety/anti-pollution devices
From "Clint Hatton, Jr." <chatton at epix.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 10:56:01 -0400
Subject: Looking for Ed Driver
Sorry to bomb the list. Would someone or Ed Driver himself please send
me his email address? Thanks, Clint
From Barry Pate <jbpate at attglobal.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 11:25:33 -0400
Subject: Battery
Anyone have any suggestions on a standard, off-the-shelf brand of
battery that will fit a BJ8 battery holder and meets ampacity for cold
weather starting.I seem to remember the battery being very high
amperage. Barry Pate 1967 BJ8
--
GIF89aHH
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 12:41:26 EDT
Subject: Re: Truck Safety - serious paranoia
In a message dated 9/17/00 8:30:59 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
lmairs@ix.netcom.com writes:
<< People drive at their own risk - some safe, some unsafe. >>
And in doing so they risk the safety of others, and that's the point!
Michael (Your left-wing friend)
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 11:27:22 -0700
Subject: Re: Battery
Just about any of them will get the job done for several years. I use
an Interstate/Optima gelled electrolyte battery because it doesn't
leak acid or acid vapors into the boot area. It can be installed and
operated on its side if need be. It costs about twice what an
ordinary lead-acid battery would but it's worth it to me. A good
warrantee. It is a bit smaller than the BJ7 battery box but ample
cold cranking amps.
-Roland
On Sun, 17 Sep 2000 11:25:33 -0400, you wrote:
::
:: Anyone have any suggestions on a standard, off-the-shelf brand of
:: battery that will fit a BJ8 battery holder and meets ampacity for cold
:: weather starting.I seem to remember the battery being very high
:: amperage. Barry Pate 1967 BJ8
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 14:30:59 -0400
Subject: Re: Battery
Hi, Barry -
For what it's worth, I'm using an Autozone Duralast #34-DS battery (580 cold
cranking amps) in my BJ8. Put it in last October and so far it's doing
fine.
Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: Barry Pate <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sunday, September 17, 2000 11:36 AM
Subject: Battery
>
>Anyone have any suggestions on a standard, off-the-shelf brand of
>battery that will fit a BJ8 battery holder and meets ampacity for cold
>weather starting.I seem to remember the battery being very high
>amperage. Barry Pate 1967 BJ8
>
>--
>GIF89aHH
>
>
From "Edrick Adams" <je.adams at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 18:30:05 -0400
Subject: Re: Truck Safety - serious paranoia (little LBC content) LOTS OF LBC
CONTENT!!!
Just watch out for a spruce green 100 LeMans conversion. Not much in excess
of 80! Ayn Rand doesn't provide protection other than of political sanity,
so we can't count on her in this situation.
Air? the space is under the plates, not above.
From: dickb@cheerful.com <dickb@cheerful.com>
Date: Saturday, September 09, 2000 1:52 AM
Subject: Re: Truck Safety - serious paranoia (little LBC content) LOTS OF
LBC CONTENT!!!
>
>Ed, I sure hope your 47 year old shock towers, spindles, hubs, steering
gear, etc can stand up to your "technique", which I assume calls for speeds
in excess of 80 mph.
>
>How will I know it's you when you fliver past me? I'd like to stay way
clear.
>
>Do you think the Ghost of Ayn Rand can ride with both you and Lee for
Devine Protection? After all you are on opposite coasts aren't you?
>
>DickB
>
From "mel" <mel5 at mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 19:09:15 -0400
Subject: Door alignment
Thanks to all who responded. I was hoping that the doors could be installed
without eng. and tran. but I see that that is not the case.
Thank again
Mel Brunet
67 BJ8
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 19:32:20 -0400
Subject: Re: Truck Safety - serious paranoia
> << People drive at their own risk - some safe, some unsafe. >>
> And in doing so they risk the safety of others, and that's the point!
Risking other's lives is surely not the reason for air bags, seat belts and
helmet laws despite what Michael, the Fellow Traveler from the Socialist
Republic of St. Leonard's Creek, says!
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 20:20:30 -0500
Subject: Re: Door alignment
hi mel-
the way an old california hotrodder and master metal worker named eddie miller
handled a situation like this was to preload the chassis with a 100 lb. bag of
concrete placed at the x on the frame. eddie always preloaded the chassis
before installing inner sills etc.,
----- Original Message -----
From: "mel" <mel5@mindspring.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Door alignment
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 19:09:15 -0400
Thanks to all who responded. I was hoping that the doors could be installed
without eng. and tran. but I see that that is not the case.
Thank again
Mel Brunet
67 BJ8
From Don Paye <dpaye at crocker.com>
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 21:26:01 -0400
Subject: car cover for 100
I am looking for a source of a new car cover for a Healey 100. I do not want
to purchase just a small car generic cover but rather one that is fitted to
100's or any large Healey. Would appreciate name and phone numbers for
contact. Hopefully this would be a source that doesn't charge big prices.
Thanks for any assistance.
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 21:42:41 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Truck Safety - serious paranoia
What do you suppose is the reason for all you mention plus cut-off switches,
safety nets,fuel cells, wired-up suspensions, roll-cages, full crush bodywork,
etc mandated by NASCAR, USAC, IMSA, FIA, CART, etc., etc., to say nothing of
any properly run gymkana at a local event- or are they also part of the
Socialist Republic.
You should have the decency to paint your LBC something like day-glo orange
with electric flashing warning signs so the rest of us can stay off the roads
when you want to "exercise your free will"
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
> > << People drive at their own risk - some safe, some unsafe. >>
> > And in doing so they risk the safety of others, and that's the point!
>
> Risking other's lives is surely not the reason for air bags, seat belts and
> helmet laws despite what Michael, the Fellow Traveler from the Socialist
> Republic of St. Leonard's Creek, says!
>
>
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 21:45:34 EDT
Subject: Re: Truck Safety - serious paranoia
In a message dated 09/17/2000 8:30:59 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
lmairs@ix.netcom.com writes:
<< People drive at their own risk - some safe, some unsafe. I for one do not
want to give away my ability to choose the level of risk I wish to assume. >>
Here here! I couldn't agree more. I am tired of stupid laws being passed
because someone was being stupid. Less government IS better. Take
responsibilites for your own actions, and live with the consequences.
Can we now stop the whole tire thing. I am getting VERY tired of it. :o)
Tim
From Peter Brauen <pbrauen at telepak.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 20:46:25 -0500
Subject: Tire safety (no real LBC content)
Hi all,
Check out the most recent developments at:
www.debsfunpages.com/funpic79.htm
Peter
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 21:46:38 EDT
Subject: Re: Truck Safety - serious paranoia
In a message dated 9/17/00 8:30:59 AM, lmairs@ix.netcom.com writes:
<<How about those folks who will appeal to the NHTSA to get those small cars
off the road that don't have collapsible steering wheels, seat belts...,>>
Sounds like 1967 all over again to me.
Rick
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 22:24:57 -0400
Subject: Re: car cover for 100
Don,
Bought my most recent cover from
Covercraft Industries
100 Enterprise Blvd
Pauls Valley, OK 73075
405-238-9651
The fit and quality is good, although the weight of fabric is less than what
I was hoping for. I got the tan (almost blonde in color) flannel cover as I
wanted a very soft to the paint finish in the garage cover. I do not use it
outdoors so water repellency and breathing is not important. Other kinds
are available from the people.
It seems that there are about 4 basic fitted covers and all are made by the
same people, probably in the far east. They all seem to use the same
fabrics. There are several companies which handle them, so I suggest you
shop by price.
However, there is one company up in the New Hampshire or Conn area who makes
their own. I can never think of their name when I have to. I bought my
first cover from them back in 1990 or so for the BJ8. It is a well fitted
cover and of a heavier material than this recent one. Also, a shade darker
in tan color. Their cost with mirror pockets was around $175, but I was
leary that the pockets would be properly placed. They would not sell me
material by the yard so I could have mirror pockets made, so I went with
Covercraft on the recent one. $145 including an extra yd of material for
pockets. Had friend make and install the pockets.
Hope this helps.
Keith Pennell
----- Original Message -----
From: Don Paye <dpaye@crocker.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: Don Paye <dpaye@crocker.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 17, 2000 9:26 PM
Subject: car cover for 100
>
> I am looking for a source of a new car cover for a Healey 100. I do not
want
> to purchase just a small car generic cover but rather one that is fitted
to
> 100's or any large Healey. Would appreciate name and phone numbers for
> contact. Hopefully this would be a source that doesn't charge big prices.
>
> Thanks for any assistance.
>
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 22:27:45 EDT
Subject: Letterman's Healeys
Healeyophiles,
This month's FORZA, a Ferrari magazine, has a feature on David Letterman's
Ferraris.
But according to the article, he also owns three Healeys. One was identified
as a Sprite, the other two weren't described. Anybody know what he has?
Boy, sure would make a great story for some British car magazine to feature
(nudge, nudge, wink, wink, Gary,) Maybe even a Top Ten Reasons for Driving a
Healey?
Rick
Don't own a Ferrari, but I can dream can't I?
From "Tim Moran" <timoran at ticnet.com>
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 21:18:28 -0500
Subject: TEXAS KOOLER 1st EVER FALL SPECIAL
The North Texas Austi-Healey Club is pleased to announce
our first ever FALL WEBSITE reduced price special.
The famous TEXAS KOOLER will be delivered by priority
mail to the domestic address of your choice.
This reduced price special offer is effective from now until
October 15, 2000. To determine the reduced price you
need to visit our website at www.ntahc.austin1.com
You will also find the address where you can send your check.
From "Tim Moran" <timoran at ticnet.com>
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 21:32:40 -0500
Subject: NAME CHANGE = v8healeys@eGroups.com
9-17-2000 @ 9:00 PM CDT
!-!-!-!-! NOTICE !-!-!-!-!
Those of you who are interested in Modified Healeys.
Effective TONIGHT, 9-17-2000, the name and Email
address of this Healey eGRoup forum has changed
FROM v8healeys@eGroups.com
TO modifiedhealeys@eGroups.com
This name change is being made to make
this eGroups.com more compatible with the
www.modifiedhealeys.austin1.com Web Site.
It will also enable on-line search engines to
better locate this eGroup and the Web Site.
This eGroup will also be more receptive to the
current and future members whose Healeys are
modified, but do not have a V8 installed.
The notification and the new name is also posted
on the www.modifiedhealeys.austin1.com web site.
I hope that you all will keep coming back.
Tim Moran
timoran@ticnet.com
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 23:17:25 -0400
Subject: Re: Letterman's Healeys
----- Original Message -----
From: <HealeyRic2@aol.com>
> Don't own a Ferrari, but I can dream can't I?
Rick,
My only desire to own a Ferrari is the number of Healeys and body massages I
could get by selling it!!!
No apologies, but Ferraris and cars with engines in rear have never done
anything for me.
Keith Pennell
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 20:27:14 -0700
Subject: Re: car cover for 100
have had good luck with North Coast Tarpaulin Works
1229 Morena Blvd.
San Diego CA 92110
(800) 231-5180
Several different types of materials and a "tailor" on the premises to
sew in pockets for outside mirrors, grommets for antennas, etc. to
match your particular setup. Nice snug fit. I have two covers from
them.
-Roland
BN1, BJ7
On Sun, 17 Sep 2000 21:26:01 -0400, you wrote:
::
:: I am looking for a source of a new car cover for a Healey 100. I do not want
:: to purchase just a small car generic cover but rather one that is fitted to
:: 100's or any large Healey. Would appreciate name and phone numbers for
:: contact. Hopefully this would be a source that doesn't charge big prices.
::
:: Thanks for any assistance.
::
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 21:36:58 -0700
Subject: Re: Los Angeles British Meet 2000
and a BRG BJ8 with new plates "65 Healy"
yes, I know it is spelled wrong but that was the best i could do.
Ron Rader
John Loftus wrote:
> I'm planning to go. A friend with Alpine went last year and said it was
> a kick. Look for a yellow with black coves BJ7 and license plate "AUSTIN
> H"
>
> Can't wait to see those "British" street rods ;)
>
> CYA,
> John Loftus
> Laguna Beach
>
> "Lane, Jonathan" wrote:
> >
> > So who's planning on attending this thing? I am hoping to have the Healey
> > there but may end up taking my faithful MGB-GT.
> >
> > If you go, look for a rather scruffy red BN7 with new Moss Carpets and Seats
> > or a BRG GT with a MGC hood.
> >
> > See you there!
> >
> > Jonathan Lane
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: rfeibusch@loop.com [mailto:rfeibusch@loop.com]
> > Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2000 9:48 PM
> > To: healeys@autox.team.net
> > Cc: R.E.M.I.N.D.E.R@stevie.loop.com
> > Subject: Los Angeles British Meet 2000
> >
> > THE GREATER LOS ANGELES BRITISH CAR MEET
> > Sunday, September 24th 2000
> > Woodley Park * Van Nuys, California
> >
> > Be part of one of the biggest, one-day, all British lawn events in
> > California. Over 500 classic, quirky and thoroughly lovable British cars
> > are expected to fill Woodley Park in Van Nuys, for the 17th Annual Greater
> > Los Angeles British Car Meet.
> >
> > Don't have a show car? Don't worry! Daily drivers, vintage racers, street
> > rods & works-in-progress are as welcome as Concours quality show cars.
> > Great British food, live jazz, vendors and more fun than you'll be able to
> > stand! People's Choice awards will be given in six classes.
> >
> > There is no preregistration. Cars will be placed on the field at 9:00AM and
> > the fun goes on all day. The registration fee is only $20 per car, at the
> > gate. All participants receive a meet memento. Spectators park and attend
> > free.
> >
> > Woodley Park is located in Van Nuys, just north of the Ventura Freeway
> > (101), on Woodley Avenue between Burbank Blvd. and Victory Blvd. From the
> > San Diego Freeway (405), take the Burbank Blvd. exit west, drive to Woodley
> > Ave. and turn right. Look for the park entrance to the right.
> >
> > If you need more information, call: 310-392-6605 or email us at:
> > rfeibusch@loop.com
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 21:46:51 -0700
Subject: Re: Letterman's Healeys
At 08:17 PM 9/17/00 , Keith Pennell wrote:
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <HealeyRic2@aol.com>
>
> > Don't own a Ferrari, but I can dream can't I?
>
>Rick,
>
>My only desire to own a Ferrari is the number of Healeys and body massages I
>could get by selling it!!!
>
>No apologies, but Ferraris and cars with engines in rear have never done
>anything for me.
>
>Keith Pennell
--------------------------
I guess Colin Chapman was off the mark then when he introduced us to
rear-engined race cars, and why they continue to be the best performing
cars. Come on, you have no desire to own a Ferrari? I'd take one in a
heartbeat.
bk
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 21:53:37 -0700
Subject: Re: Battery
the optima has performed well for me also.
Ron rader
Roland Wilhelmy wrote:
> Just about any of them will get the job done for several years. I use
> an Interstate/Optima gelled electrolyte battery because it doesn't
> leak acid or acid vapors into the boot area. It can be installed and
> operated on its side if need be. It costs about twice what an
> ordinary lead-acid battery would but it's worth it to me. A good
> warrantee. It is a bit smaller than the BJ7 battery box but ample
> cold cranking amps.
>
> -Roland
>
> On Sun, 17 Sep 2000 11:25:33 -0400, you wrote:
>
> ::
> :: Anyone have any suggestions on a standard, off-the-shelf brand of
> :: battery that will fit a BJ8 battery holder and meets ampacity for cold
> :: weather starting.I seem to remember the battery being very high
> :: amperage. Barry Pate 1967 BJ8
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at slip.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 21:55:49 -0700
Subject: Top Ten, was: Letterman's Healeys
WRT:
> (nudge, nudge, wink, wink, Gary,) Maybe even a Top Ten Reasons for Driving a
> Healey?
OK, I'll bite:
10. Guys with Mercedes/BMWs/Porsches/SUVs get really pissed-off when their
wives/girlfriends
do a double-take on your Healey
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@slip.net (home)
San Jose, CA. bspidell@teknema.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: <HealeyRic2@aol.com>
To: <spridgets@autox.team.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 17, 2000 7:27 PM
Subject: Letterman's Healeys
>
> Healeyophiles,
>
> This month's FORZA, a Ferrari magazine, has a feature on David Letterman's
> Ferraris.
> But according to the article, he also owns three Healeys. One was identified
> as a Sprite, the other two weren't described. Anybody know what he has?
> Boy, sure would make a great story for some British car magazine to feature
> (nudge, nudge, wink, wink, Gary,) Maybe even a Top Ten Reasons for Driving a
> Healey?
>
> Rick
> Don't own a Ferrari, but I can dream can't I?
>
From "Karlsson Magnus" <healey at telia.com>
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 09:05:40 +0200
Subject: SV: Rubber rubble
Years ago I spoke with a chemist who were working in the rubber industry. He
told me that they would put anti-age agents into the rubber in order to make it
last. Manufacturers that aren´t that concerned with quality often skips this I
was told. I have also spoken about this problem with one major supplier in the
UK. He was well aware of the problem and said this is the way it is and that
one has to get used to change the rubber parts at regular intervals.
I think the problem is unnecessary and could easily be solved if the suppliers
used good quality rubber.
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
From <CCruz at tribune.com>
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 08:26:42 -0500
Subject: Austin Versus Healey
Good morning Listers,
I'm in the process of considering the acquisition of another "toy". The
Healey is getting lonely and since the nights are getting colder... well you
know. One of the cars being considered is a '50 Austin Panel Van. Doing
some research over the weekend I began to think about something (ya, I know
- not necessarily a good thing). I thought I could benefit from a history
lesson and what better place to start then with all the historians on this
list.
It's obvious from list List, the AHCA, AHCUSA and all the Healey events that
Healey-owners hold Donald Healey in very high regards, the "father" of our
cars. I have to admint this connection with a person is one of the many
mystics that make owning one of Donald's cars a true pleasure.
I'm curious if anyone knows why a similar affection is not held for the
"Austin" half of the marquee? Is "Austin" a real individual or just
corporation personified? Any history buffs out there willing to share with
the rest of us? Hopefully this makes for an interesting thread.
Best regards,
Carlos Cruz
'60 AH 3KBN7
Naperville, Illinois
From "Donald L. Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 08:27:13 -0500
Subject: Government Restraints
At the risk of "getting involved" I want to put in my two cents worth. I am
not taking sides in this issue, just wanted to make a point.
dickb wrote: > What do you suppose is the reason for all you mention plus
cut-off switches, safety nets,fuel cells, wired-up suspensions, roll-cages,
full crush bodywork, etc mandated by NASCAR, USAC, IMSA, FIA, CART, etc.,
etc., to say nothing of any properly run gymkana at a local event- or are
they also part of the Socialist Republic.<
These sanctions by the above mention organizations are all self imposed
sanctions. They are mandated by the organizations mentioned for the well
being of the participants. They are not government imposed, therefore the
government does not add a huge staff of people (supported by taxpayers) to
"control" these sanctions.
That is the difference.
Don
BN7
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 10:08:18 -0400
Subject: Re: SV: Rubber rubble
Karlsson Magnus wrote:
> Years ago I spoke with a chemist who were working in the rubber industry. He
>told me that they would put anti-age agents into the rubber in order to make
>it last. Manufacturers that aren´t that concerned with quality often skips
>this I was told. I have also spoken about this problem with one major supplier
>in the UK. He was well aware of the problem and said this is the way it is and
>that one has to get used to change the rubber parts at regular intervals.
>
> I think the problem is unnecessary and could easily be solved if the
>suppliers used good quality rubber.
>
> Magnus Karlsson
> SWEDEN
For my 2 cents worth.
I see on this group lots of listers seeking sources for one product or another
and suffixing their inquiry with " I don't want to pay much"
IMHO this is a large part of the cause for problems with rapidly deteriorating
rubber and generally inferior quality repro parts occur.
I am quite sure the "anti aging compounds" and the extra cost of including them
in a product adds considerably to the cost of production.
As a supplier of parts we are constantly confronted with the "But Joe's
Discount Auto Parts and Hot Tub Supply" has that very same item for 20% less.
I'm not paying your exorbitant prices."
So next time we go to buy that item we beat up on our source, usually the
manufacturer. He, then, in order to keep us happy and stay in business is
forced to either produce the same part for less money or, more likely, drop the
line.
Lucas is gone, Smith's is gone, BMC is gone, Armstrong is gone, Laycock
DeNormanville is I believe gone, etc., etc.
I don't have a solution to this problem but at least this may help to
illuminate the cause.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 10:11:17 -0400
Subject: Re: Heater trunk material
We are working on it at present and expect to be back within one month....sorry
about the delay.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
"M.E. & E.A. Driver" wrote:
> Hi Mike
>
> I had not looked closely at all the ducting in my BJ8, it turns out that
> the rear heater ducting is Kopex - with the remainder the PO choice. By the
> way when will Precision Sportscar be back on the web?
>
> Thanks very much for the response.
>
> Kind regards
> Ed
> Saskatoon
>
From "kirk kvam" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 08:35:54 -0700
Subject: Re: Letterman's Healeys
Bill Katz writes he would take one in a heartbear.
He will have "HEARTFAILURE" when he gets the bill for the first minor tune.
Kirk Kvam
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 17, 2000 9:46 PM
Subject: Re: Letterman's Healeys
>
> At 08:17 PM 9/17/00 , Keith Pennell wrote:
>
>
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: <HealeyRic2@aol.com>
> >
> > > Don't own a Ferrari, but I can dream can't I?
> >
> >Rick,
> >
> >My only desire to own a Ferrari is the number of Healeys and body
massages I
> >could get by selling it!!!
> >
> >No apologies, but Ferraris and cars with engines in rear have never done
> >anything for me.
> >
> >Keith Pennell
>
> --------------------------
> I guess Colin Chapman was off the mark then when he introduced us to
> rear-engined race cars, and why they continue to be the best performing
> cars. Come on, you have no desire to own a Ferrari? I'd take one in a
> heartbeat.
>
> bk
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
From Jim Rowan <jimrowan at uic.edu>
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 10:33:37 -0500
Subject: Re: Battery
What sold me on the Optima was a buddy who has a
'41 Lincoln V12 that when through batteries like no tomorrow.
He installed an Optima and it's started no problem for the
past 4 years. Figured if it could start
the gargantuan V12 it should last a few years in a 948 Sprite.
Exide makes a copy of Interstates (Optima) spiral cell batteries
but don't be fooled.
Never again with Exide after their "used batteries rebadged as
new batteries" episode.
Cheers,
James
At 09:53 PM 09/17/2000 -0700, Ron Rader wrote:
>
>the optima has performed well for me also.
>Ron rader
>
>Roland Wilhelmy wrote:
>
>> Just about any of them will get the job done for several years. I use
>> an Interstate/Optima gelled electrolyte battery because it doesn't
>> leak acid or acid vapors into the boot area. It can be installed and
>> operated on its side if need be. It costs about twice what an
>> ordinary lead-acid battery would but it's worth it to me. A good
>> warrantee. It is a bit smaller than the BJ7 battery box but ample
>> cold cranking amps.
>>
>> -Roland
>>
>> On Sun, 17 Sep 2000 11:25:33 -0400, you wrote:
>>
>> ::
>> :: Anyone have any suggestions on a standard, off-the-shelf brand of
>> :: battery that will fit a BJ8 battery holder and meets ampacity for cold
>> :: weather starting.I seem to remember the battery being very high
>> :: amperage. Barry Pate 1967 BJ8
From Jim Rowan <jimrowan at uic.edu>
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 10:58:45 -0500
Subject: Re: Truck Safety - serious paranoia
Also beware pickup trucks. About a month ago I was traveling behind some
ford pickup on the tollway, speed limit 65. I was about 3 secs behind him when
the entire plastic bedliner lifted out of the truck flew up about 20 ft
and did a pirouette over the roof of my car narrowly missing me.
Keep in mind I am driving a Miata (Sprite was in the garage) which provides
little roof protection.
I pulled over to regain my bodily functions and calm down. The pickup
truck kept right on going not even stopping. Meanwhile people were
swerving across lanes to miss the bedliner now laying on the road.
I called the State patrol and informed them of the incident. When they
arrived I gave them a description of the pickup but no plate # I was to
busy watching this ominous black shape descend upon me to get it.
There is no way that the person driving the pickup didn't know he lost his
bedliner.
The whole pickup jumped sideways when the bedliner was ripped out with
an all-mighty roar. How he could drive off with a clear conscience knowing
he could have just killed a score of drivers or at least caused an accident
amazes
me. I no longer drive behind pickups, big rigs, SUV's specifically Ford
Explorers.
Cheers,
James
At 04:42 PM 09/15/2000 -0400, you wrote:
>We recently experienced Large Truck Safety Paranoia up close and personal.
>last Sunday, we were returning from a Healey club outing in Chattanooga on
>I-75. A semi-trailer rig passed the lead Healey, which my wife was driving
>and lost a rear tire from the rim. The tire smacked the Healey in the left
>front, bending the bumper, shroud, and fender back into the tire and locking
>the steering wheel in one position. My son and I were following closely
>behind in his Sprite and narrowly missed the tire when it unwrapped and flew
>toward him. Autocross experience does pay off !! His high speed chicane
>maneuver saved his car from incurring damage as well. We watched as an SUV
>also made a rather dangerous maneuver to avois the tire.
>
>The good news is that my wife was able to bring the Healey to a safe stop and
>no-one was injured. The bad news is that her beloved Teal Blue Healey, which
>many of you know she has had since 1975, is bent and now sitting at a repair
>shop.
>
>So, when someone talks about large truck paranoia, believe it! An 85 pound
>tire hitting an aluminum shroud on a Healey makes a nasty sound and leaves a
>terrible black mark on the car. Fortunately, we did not have to test the
>Triplex windscreen. I would shudder to think of those consequences.
>
>We wish that none of you will face a similar experience in your Healeys.
>
>Best regards,
>Gary Lownsdale
From "Brian Collins" <bcolins at airmail.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 12:11:37 -0500
Subject: STP in Steering box?
Seems to me I read somewhere that a fellow list member had found STP to be a
suitable non leaking lube for out steering boxes. Can anyone speak from
experience on this---I haven't been able to find the steering box lube
supposedly marketed by Penrite.
Brian
From "Brad Weldon" <bweldon at georgefox.edu>
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 10:28:55 -0700
Subject: flying bedliners (was RE: Truck Safety - serious paranoia)
> Jim Rowan wrote...
> I was traveling behind some
> ford pickup on the tollway, speed limit 65. I was about 3
> secs behind him when
> the entire plastic bedliner lifted out of the truck flew up
> about 20 ft
> and did a pirouette over the roof of my car narrowly missing me.
I hate to be a "me too", but some things in life are pressed too deep in
memory to forget.
I witnessed the same thing a few years ago while driving south on I-5 south
of Portland. I was heading home early because of an approaching wind storm.
I'm doing 60mph heading south, bucking a hugh headwind (southernly ~50-60
mph). So it feels like 110 mph. I'm in the far right lane, a pickup passes
me in the left lane and about 100 feet ahead of me --- FOOM... there goes
his bedliner up, up and away! Lands in the middle and left lanes upside
down. Fortunately, not much traffic that afternoon...
Brad (we're not in Kansas anymore Toto!)
55 bn1
AHCUSA Webmaster
http://www.healey.org/
From "P.M. Pollock" <pollpete at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 11:05:27 -0700
Subject: Re: Truck Safety -(little LBC content)
Can't resist passing this on.
About 40 years ago my Dad was on the road into Billings, Montana. Two-lane
highway, pretty day, letting the semi ahead of him break trail. Next thing he
knows his windshield is dark brown and he can hardly breath for the stench.
It was a cattle truck.
The dung was so thick his wipers couldn't move it. He managed to stay on the
road and drive on into Billings sticking his head out the left window- didn't
stop because the stuff was so thick even on the doors he figured he'd take a
bath in it just exiting.
He drove into the first gas station. The attendant saw him coming and gestured
for him to head over to a hose and roll up the window, then hosed it off. Said
it happened all the time.
Beats rocks.
Pete Pollock
BJ7
N. California
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 15:07:43 -0400
Subject: Re: Austin Versus Healey
Hi Carlos,
Here is a little that I remember.
Austin was Herbert Austin who, much like William Morris, was one of the few who
succeeded in the automobile manufacturing business in England early last
century.
Morris became Lord Nuffield. I don't know if Austin was ever knighted.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
CCruz@tribune.com wrote:
> Good morning Listers,
>
> I'm in the process of considering the acquisition of another "toy". The
> Healey is getting lonely and since the nights are getting colder... well you
> know. One of the cars being considered is a '50 Austin Panel Van. Doing
> some research over the weekend I began to think about something (ya, I know
> - not necessarily a good thing). I thought I could benefit from a history
> lesson and what better place to start then with all the historians on this
> list.
>
> It's obvious from list List, the AHCA, AHCUSA and all the Healey events that
> Healey-owners hold Donald Healey in very high regards, the "father" of our
> cars. I have to admint this connection with a person is one of the many
> mystics that make owning one of Donald's cars a true pleasure.
>
> I'm curious if anyone knows why a similar affection is not held for the
> "Austin" half of the marquee? Is "Austin" a real individual or just
> corporation personified? Any history buffs out there willing to share with
> the rest of us? Hopefully this makes for an interesting thread.
>
> Best regards,
> Carlos Cruz
> '60 AH 3KBN7
> Naperville, Illinois
From "Karlsson Magnus" <healey at telia.com>
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 21:18:22 +0200
Subject: SV: SV: Rubber rubble
Mike,
I couldn´t agree more with what you are saying. Unfortunately it was quite a
long time since I spoke with the chemist so I don´t remember about costs but
you are most likely right in that it would cost more to include anti-age
agents. An annoying problem without a simple solution.
Magnus Karlsson
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Salter <magicare@home.com>
To: Karlsson Magnus <healey@telia.com>
Cc: Healey Lista <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 18, 2000 4:08 PM
Subject: Re: SV: Rubber rubble
>
> Karlsson Magnus wrote:
>
> > Years ago I spoke with a chemist who were working in the rubber industry.
>He told me that they would put anti-age agents into the rubber in order to
>make it last. Manufacturers that aren´t that concerned with quality often
>skips this I was told. I have also spoken about this problem with one major
>supplier in the UK. He was well aware of the problem and said this is the way
>it is and that one has to get used to change the rubber parts at regular
>intervals.
> >
> > I think the problem is unnecessary and could easily be solved if the
>suppliers used good quality rubber.
> >
> > Magnus Karlsson
> > SWEDEN
>
> For my 2 cents worth.
>
> I see on this group lots of listers seeking sources for one product or
>another and suffixing their inquiry with " I don't want to pay much"
> IMHO this is a large part of the cause for problems with rapidly
>deteriorating rubber and generally inferior quality repro parts occur.
> I am quite sure the "anti aging compounds" and the extra cost of including
>them in a product adds considerably to the cost of production.
> As a supplier of parts we are constantly confronted with the "But Joe's
>Discount Auto Parts and Hot Tub Supply" has that very same item for 20% less.
>I'm not paying your exorbitant prices."
> So next time we go to buy that item we beat up on our source, usually the
>manufacturer. He, then, in order to keep us happy and stay in business is
>forced to either produce the same part for less money or, more likely, drop
>the line.
> Lucas is gone, Smith's is gone, BMC is gone, Armstrong is gone, Laycock
>DeNormanville is I believe gone, etc., etc.
> I don't have a solution to this problem but at least this may help to
>illuminate the cause.
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
>
From CNAArndt at aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 18:09:08 EDT
Subject: BN1/2 ORIG. BUMPER/CLUTCH PARTS
Hi all
A few years ago I made up a small batch of brackets that were fitted inside
the rear bumpers of the BN1/2's. These were made up for the few of us that
were interested in originality and completeness when restoring our cars. It
appeared that very many cars were missing these brackets due to the fact that
they could be misplaced or lost if the bumper overridders were taken off. I
seem to remember that I made up about twenty pairs of these brackets that
usually traded for other parts over the past seven years. I ran out of them
last year and since then I have received quite a few requests to make up some
more.
Anyway, I was discussing this with Roger Moment and he expressed an interest
in not only the brackets but the special carriage bolts that are used to
attach the original bumper overridders. Anyway, I have access to a couple of
local craftsman that are willing to do a small run of these parts. I
currently have over half the number of people committed to make a small run
economically feasible and I thought that with the world wide reach of the
Healey List that I would see if any one else would be interested. Since I
don't have any pictures available as of yet I will attempt to describe what I
am offering.
1. Bumper Overridder Support Brackets: There are two loose brackets inside
the rear bumper that support the nut and washers that hold on the
overridders. Also, there are six more of these brackets that are welded
inside of the bumpers (four on the front and two on the rear) that are used
to mount the bumpers to the bumper brackets on the car. Each bracket is
about 2" X 3" with small tabs bent over on each end. The two loose brackets
have a 5/8'" hole in the center while the six "captive" brackets have a 1"
long 3/8" UNF stud welded in the center. Most of the time when an original
bumper is straightened prior to being re-chromed, these brackets, many in
poor shape to begin with, are cut out and then re-welded in. I've talked
already with a few people interested in purchasing all eight of these for
their cars. I hope to get the cost down to about $4.00/bracket if there is
enough interest .
2. Bumper Overridder Carriage Bolts: These four bolts were unique to the
BN1/2's and will only fit the original overridders since the after market
ones are attached with a regular Hex bolt that screws into a captive nut in
the overridder. The two short bolts (1 & 1/2") hold the front overridders on
and two long bolts (2") hold the rear ones on. Each bolt is a special high
domed head, 7/16" UNF thread carriage bolt that is not available through any
supplier. I am hopping to get the cost of a set of four bolts plus nuts and
washers down to about $25.00.
3. Original Style Clutch Rods and Lever: The only clutch operating rods and
lever available for many years, that I am aware of, have been manufactured
by Kilmartin in Australia. The clutch operating lever and long rod that
Kilmartin makes are very close to the originals, however the short rod is
made out of square steel stock instead of 5/16" steel rod like the original.
The reason for this is that the original rods were very prone to breaking
because of the stress put on this thin steel rod. My machinist is making up
a few sets of these clutch rods out of a very strong stainless steel that
will look identical to the originals but will be designed not to break like
the originals. I already have about six people interested in these items
(two clutch rods and the operating lever), but if anyone else is interested
in original looking, quality parts designed to last, let me know since the
price will go down the more I have made. No specific quote yet on price yet,
however my machinist and I think that they will be in the range of what the
various vendors currently sell the Kilmartin parts for.
My apologies for the rather lengthy post however I knew of now way to get
this information out to as many potentially interested people in such short
time. BTW the cost of these items will reflect the actual cost of
manufacturing plus my expenses, i.e. there is no profit margin built in! All
of these parts will be made as close to or better than original in both
quality and materials. I would have had these items made up for myself and a
couple of others, but this way a lot more people benefit with better parts
for their cars. Please contact me off list with any question you might have.
Cheers
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA (San Diego Austin Healey Club)
cnaarndt@aol.com
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 17:10:44 -0500
Subject: Re: Austin Versus Healey
the reason DMH and the rest of the HEALEY family is held in such high regard is
because of that personal contact. a vast number of healey owners were
personally acquainted with DMH as well as Geoff and margo, bic and mary and
john and joy. had herbert austin spent as much time in the usa as DMH and had
austin derived the major portion of their sales from this country, there is a
slight possibility he might have attracted a small % of the healey following,
however, remember he would be working without those " fabulous lines".
DMH loved the usa and from the late 40's to his death spent almost as much time
over here as he did in the uk.
----- Original Message -----
From: <CCruz@tribune.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Austin Versus Healey
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 08:26:42 -0500
Good morning Listers,
I'm in the process of considering the acquisition of another "toy". The
Healey is getting lonely and since the nights are getting colder... well you
know. One of the cars being considered is a '50 Austin Panel Van. Doing
some research over the weekend I began to think about something (ya, I know
- not necessarily a good thing). I thought I could benefit from a history
lesson and what better place to start then with all the historians on this
list.
It's obvious from list List, the AHCA, AHCUSA and all the Healey events that
Healey-owners hold Donald Healey in very high regards, the "father" of our
cars. I have to admint this connection with a person is one of the many
mystics that make owning one of Donald's cars a true pleasure.
I'm curious if anyone knows why a similar affection is not held for the
"Austin" half of the marquee? Is "Austin" a real individual or just
corporation personified? Any history buffs out there willing to share with
the rest of us? Hopefully this makes for an interesting thread.
Best regards,
Carlos Cruz
'60 AH 3KBN7
Naperville, Illinois
From "Graham Healey" <Graham_Healey at lse.com.au>
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 09:26:17 +1100
Subject: RE: Austin Versus Healey
I do not remember what happened to the man behind Austin, only that Leonard
Lord took over the running of the company in around 1939 and he was
instrumental in the joining of Austin & Healey. So its a bit like the MG's
there was no face behind the company in its later stages. This is what makes
Healey's so remarkable, that Donald Healey was the "Man" from start to
finish. There were very few British car companies that were like this.
Morgan, Lotus for sure, any more?
Regards
Graham
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: 19-Sep-2000 5:08
To: CCruz@tribune.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Austin Versus Healey
Hi Carlos,
Here is a little that I remember.
Austin was Herbert Austin who, much like William Morris, was one of the few
who
succeeded in the automobile manufacturing business in England early last
century.
Morris became Lord Nuffield. I don't know if Austin was ever knighted.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
CCruz@tribune.com wrote:
> Good morning Listers,
>
> I'm in the process of considering the acquisition of another "toy". The
> Healey is getting lonely and since the nights are getting colder... well
you
> know. One of the cars being considered is a '50 Austin Panel Van. Doing
> some research over the weekend I began to think about something (ya, I
know
> - not necessarily a good thing). I thought I could benefit from a
history
> lesson and what better place to start then with all the historians on this
> list.
>
> It's obvious from list List, the AHCA, AHCUSA and all the Healey events
that
> Healey-owners hold Donald Healey in very high regards, the "father" of our
> cars. I have to admint this connection with a person is one of the many
> mystics that make owning one of Donald's cars a true pleasure.
>
> I'm curious if anyone knows why a similar affection is not held for the
> "Austin" half of the marquee? Is "Austin" a real individual or just
> corporation personified? Any history buffs out there willing to share
with
> the rest of us? Hopefully this makes for an interesting thread.
>
> Best regards,
> Carlos Cruz
> '60 AH 3KBN7
> Naperville, Illinois
From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 18:47:46 EDT
Subject: Re: STP in Steering box?
In a message dated 09/18/2000 1:21:17 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
bcolins@airmail.net writes:
<< Seems to me I read somewhere that a fellow list member had found STP to be
a
suitable non leaking lube for out steering boxes. Can anyone speak from
experience on this >>
Naw, it leaks out, just more slowly as it it much more viscous than the gear
oil.
Tim
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 15:47:30 -0700
Subject: Re: SV: Rubber rubble
Smith's is revived, at least to some degree. I have dealt with these
people, and they seem to be trying to serve and to please us old car
owners. (some temp gauge bulbs are too big to fit in the big Healey
head, so they redid one to fit my BJ7, no add'l charge) Try:
http://private.supersites.net/mssn2/goweroaks/home.htm
click on "About: Gower Oaks Ltd." for background\
You could also look at the Classic series of instruments.
Speaking of prices, their prices, delivered to San Diego, were
slightly over 50% of Moss' list price.
-Roland
On Mon, 18 Sep 2000 10:08:18 -0400, you wrote:
:: Lucas is gone, Smith's is gone, BMC is gone, Armstrong is gone, Laycock
:DeNormanville is I believe gone, etc., etc.
From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 19:04:58 EDT
Subject: Re: Truck Safety - serious paranoia
In a message dated 09/18/2000 12:53:15 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
jimrowan@uic.edu writes:
<< Also beware pickup trucks. About a month ago I was traveling behind some
ford pickup on the tollway, speed limit 65. I was about 3 secs behind him
when
the entire plastic bedliner lifted out of the truck flew up about 20 ft
and did a pirouette over the roof of my car narrowly missing me. >>
I couldn't agree more being a truck owner. Too many times people tail gate
so closely to me in my truck that I can't even see their hood! I have a mat
which I keep covered with something heavy to prevent it from being sucked
out, but stuff does get sucked out on occasion.
I recall one time (which I am not particularly proud of, but still find
humorous none the less) when some girl was tail gating me extremely closely.
( I have had trailered cars give me more space than this!) This was on I-20
and we were doing around 70 mph. I was annoyed, so I started changing my
speed hoping that this girl would either pass or back off. No luck, she
stuck on my rear bumper like she was racing stock cars at Daytona.
Well it seems that there was a empty beer can in the back of my truck that
day for some reason. ;o) A dead soldier from the weekend football tail gate
party. Well since this car was so close it distrubed the air flow in the
back of the truck. The next thing I know this can gets caught in the vortex
of air, gets sucked out and bounces off the hood of her car. It did about
three loops behind the cab of my truck before it exited, and the look on this
gal's face was priceless. Needless to say she backed wwwaaaayyyy off and I
didn't have any more trouble with her. If she had been following the proper
2-second distance this probably never would have happened, so I figured she
learned her lesson in tail gaiting.
Moral of the story, if you can't see around the truck, back off. Bad things
happen when you anger the truck gods.
Tim
From skip saunders <tfs at mitre.org>
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 19:22:14 -0400
Subject: Re: tailgating - was trucks paranoia
I told myself I wasn't going to get involved in this thread... But if
you don't have beer can ready to fly out of your truck bed, there is a
much better solution... and it works for nearly all cars.
If I find someone is tailgating too close to me, I simply wash my front
windscreen. At nearly any speed over 30mph, the spray on the
windshield has enough splash and misting action, that some of the water
finds its way to the tailgater's windshield...
I figure I'm doing three good things:
Cleaning my windshield, so I have a better view of any road hazards
ahead;
Cleaning the other guy's/gal's windshield so he/she can better see my
tail-lights/brake-lights if there were a problem there....
and I'm reminding him/her in a very gentle way that they are too close.
Tends to work pretty well....
-Skip-
From Joseph Elmer <Joelmer at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 19:31:47 -0400
Subject: Re: STP in Steering box?
I use STP in the steering box of my BN1 and have no problems.
Brian Collins wrote:
> Seems to me I read somewhere that a fellow list member had found STP to be a
> suitable non leaking lube for out steering boxes. Can anyone speak from
> experience on this---I haven't been able to find the steering box lube
> supposedly marketed by Penrite.
> Brian
From "Thomas Mulligan" <tpmul at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 19:46:32 -0400
Subject: Re: STP in Steering box?
Moss sells the Penrite steering box lube.
Tough to get in the box though.
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: Brian Collins <bcolins@airmail.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 18, 2000 1:11 PM
Subject: STP in Steering box?
>
> Seems to me I read somewhere that a fellow list member had found STP to be
a
> suitable non leaking lube for out steering boxes. Can anyone speak from
> experience on this---I haven't been able to find the steering box lube
> supposedly marketed by Penrite.
> Brian
>
>
From "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec at globalserve.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 20:38:58 -0400
Subject: Re: Austin Versus Healey
Sir William Lyons - the guy behind Jags from start to finish.
Mike L.
60A,67E,59Bug
----- Original Message -----
From: Graham Healey <Graham_Healey@lse.com.au>
To: 'Michael Salter' <magicare@home.com>; <CCruz@tribune.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: September 18, 2000 6:26 PM
Subject: RE: Austin Versus Healey
>
> I do not remember what happened to the man behind Austin, only
that Leonard
> Lord took over the running of the company in around 1939 and he
was
> instrumental in the joining of Austin & Healey. So its a bit
like the MG's
> there was no face behind the company in its later stages. This
is what makes
> Healey's so remarkable, that Donald Healey was the "Man" from
start to
> finish. There were very few British car companies that were like
this.
> Morgan, Lotus for sure, any more?
>
> Regards
> Graham
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Michael Salter
> Sent: 19-Sep-2000 5:08
> To: CCruz@tribune.com
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Austin Versus Healey
>
>
>
> Hi Carlos,
> Here is a little that I remember.
> Austin was Herbert Austin who, much like William Morris, was one
of the few
> who
> succeeded in the automobile manufacturing business in England
early last
> century.
> Morris became Lord Nuffield. I don't know if Austin was ever
knighted.
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
>
> CCruz@tribune.com wrote:
>
> > Good morning Listers,
> >
> > I'm in the process of considering the acquisition of another
"toy". The
> > Healey is getting lonely and since the nights are getting
colder... well
> you
> > know. One of the cars being considered is a '50 Austin Panel
Van. Doing
> > some research over the weekend I began to think about
something (ya, I
> know
> > - not necessarily a good thing). I thought I could benefit
from a
> history
> > lesson and what better place to start then with all the
historians on this
> > list.
> >
> > It's obvious from list List, the AHCA, AHCUSA and all the
Healey events
> that
> > Healey-owners hold Donald Healey in very high regards, the
"father" of our
> > cars. I have to admint this connection with a person is one
of the many
> > mystics that make owning one of Donald's cars a true pleasure.
> >
> > I'm curious if anyone knows why a similar affection is not
held for the
> > "Austin" half of the marquee? Is "Austin" a real individual
or just
> > corporation personified? Any history buffs out there willing
to share
> with
> > the rest of us? Hopefully this makes for an interesting
thread.
> >
> > Best regards,
> > Carlos Cruz
> > '60 AH 3KBN7
> > Naperville, Illinois
>
>
>
>
>
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 18:11:50 -0700
Subject: Re:Rubber rubble
Hi all,
This thread reminds me of the old joke about the American Indian father
who was answering a question from his son by explaining they name their
children for the first thing they see after the moment of conception.
"In the case of your sister, your mother and I saw a deer and her name
became Running Doe. Does that answer your question, Broken Rubber?"
But back to the topic. There are alternatives to thermoset rubbers that
have been used for at least the last 10 years on automobiles for
weatherstriping, bellows, trim, engine ducting, etc. The are called
thermoplastic rubbers, require no vulcanization and can be processed
with injection mold, blow mold and extrusion tooling. The soft handles
on power tools and kitchen tools are usually made with this type of
material and the durometer or softness can be varied to a great degree.
Here is a link to one company who makes these materials:
http://www.aestpe.com
and some automotive case studies to show some applications.
http://www.aestpe.com/aes/Xauto_casestudies.html
My understanding is that it is less expensive to make parts with
thermoplastic rubber and the U.V., ozone, heat, cold and most mechanical
properties are superior to rubber. The parts can look better than
traditional rubber because the parts come out of the mold with crisp
details. It would be great if the manufactures would use up-to-date
materials that we didn't need to replace so often. I suppose the only
recourse is to complain when the quality is not up to standards.
I doubt that material and additive cost is very significant to the
pricing of molded LBC parts. The quantities produced and purchased every
year are relatively low and everyone wants to make it worth their while
and I would guess that labor and total markup is the major price
component.
Regards,
John Loftus
Karlsson Magnus wrote:
>
> Mike,
>
> I couldn´t agree more with what you are saying. Unfortunately it was quite a
>long time since I spoke with the chemist so I don´t remember about costs but
>you are most likely right in that it would cost more to include anti-age
>agents. An annoying problem without a simple solution.
From tom Blaskovics <u2347 at wvnvm.wvnet.edu>
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 21:14:54 -0400
Subject: Inertial Seat Belts
Sorry to bust the list but...................
Several months ago I kind soul sent me a couple of jpegs that show how he had
attached a seat belt to his BJ7/8. Could that kind person do so again.
I have just finished the car and the last thing on the "todo" list are the
seatbelts.
Thanks
Tom Blaskovics (U2347@WVNVM.WVNET.EDU)
ACHA, ACHUSA
BJ7 Registry
HBJ7L/22380
Back on the Road in July
MB 450 SL
Morgantown, WV
From Charles Rice <crice at glasgow-ky.com>
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 23:29:41 -0500
Subject: British car meets
I will be in central Indiana Saturday Sep 30. I notice two listings for
British car meets that day, as follows:
1. Indy British Car Days (no location given)
2. Indy British Motor Days, Casmp Belzer, IN.
Is there anyone in the Indianapolis area that can offer information on
these events, locations in particular. I can't find "Camp Belzer" on
any maps I have.
Thanks! Charles Rice
From "kirk kvam" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 21:53:31 -0700
Subject: Re: Austin Versus Healey/MARGO
THAT'S MARGO WITH A "T"
"MARGOT" HEALEY
Kirk Kvam
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <CCruz@tribune.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 18, 2000 3:10 PM
Subject: Re: Austin Versus Healey
>
> the reason DMH and the rest of the HEALEY family is held in such high
regard is because of that personal contact. a vast number of healey owners
were personally acquainted with DMH as well as Geoff and margo, bic and mary
and john and joy. had herbert austin spent as much time in the usa as DMH
and had austin derived the major portion of their sales from this country,
there is a slight possibility he might have attracted a small % of the
healey following, however, remember he would be working without those "
fabulous lines".
>
> DMH loved the usa and from the late 40's to his death spent almost as much
time over here as he did in the uk.
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: <CCruz@tribune.com>
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Austin Versus Healey
> Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 08:26:42 -0500
>
>
> Good morning Listers,
>
> I'm in the process of considering the acquisition of another "toy". The
> Healey is getting lonely and since the nights are getting colder... well
you
> know. One of the cars being considered is a '50 Austin Panel Van. Doing
> some research over the weekend I began to think about something (ya, I
know
> - not necessarily a good thing). I thought I could benefit from a
history
> lesson and what better place to start then with all the historians on this
> list.
>
> It's obvious from list List, the AHCA, AHCUSA and all the Healey events
that
> Healey-owners hold Donald Healey in very high regards, the "father" of our
> cars. I have to admint this connection with a person is one of the many
> mystics that make owning one of Donald's cars a true pleasure.
>
> I'm curious if anyone knows why a similar affection is not held for the
> "Austin" half of the marquee? Is "Austin" a real individual or just
> corporation personified? Any history buffs out there willing to share
with
> the rest of us? Hopefully this makes for an interesting thread.
>
> Best regards,
> Carlos Cruz
> '60 AH 3KBN7
> Naperville, Illinois
>
>
>
>
From "kirk kvam" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 21:59:06 -0700
Subject: Re: Austin Versus Healey/Henry Austin
I believe it was Henry Austin as I have a 1924 Christmas card signed by him
with his portrate.
Kirk Kvam
----- Original Message -----
From: "Graham Healey" <Graham_Healey@lse.com.au>
To: "'Michael Salter'" <magicare@home.com>; <CCruz@tribune.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 18, 2000 3:26 PM
Subject: RE: Austin Versus Healey
>
> I do not remember what happened to the man behind Austin, only that
Leonard
> Lord took over the running of the company in around 1939 and he was
> instrumental in the joining of Austin & Healey. So its a bit like the MG's
> there was no face behind the company in its later stages. This is what
makes
> Healey's so remarkable, that Donald Healey was the "Man" from start to
> finish. There were very few British car companies that were like this.
> Morgan, Lotus for sure, any more?
>
> Regards
> Graham
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Michael Salter
> Sent: 19-Sep-2000 5:08
> To: CCruz@tribune.com
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Austin Versus Healey
>
>
>
> Hi Carlos,
> Here is a little that I remember.
> Austin was Herbert Austin who, much like William Morris, was one of the
few
> who
> succeeded in the automobile manufacturing business in England early last
> century.
> Morris became Lord Nuffield. I don't know if Austin was ever knighted.
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
>
> CCruz@tribune.com wrote:
>
> > Good morning Listers,
> >
> > I'm in the process of considering the acquisition of another "toy". The
> > Healey is getting lonely and since the nights are getting colder... well
> you
> > know. One of the cars being considered is a '50 Austin Panel Van.
Doing
> > some research over the weekend I began to think about something (ya, I
> know
> > - not necessarily a good thing). I thought I could benefit from a
> history
> > lesson and what better place to start then with all the historians on
this
> > list.
> >
> > It's obvious from list List, the AHCA, AHCUSA and all the Healey events
> that
> > Healey-owners hold Donald Healey in very high regards, the "father" of
our
> > cars. I have to admint this connection with a person is one of the many
> > mystics that make owning one of Donald's cars a true pleasure.
> >
> > I'm curious if anyone knows why a similar affection is not held for the
> > "Austin" half of the marquee? Is "Austin" a real individual or just
> > corporation personified? Any history buffs out there willing to share
> with
> > the rest of us? Hopefully this makes for an interesting thread.
> >
> > Best regards,
> > Carlos Cruz
> > '60 AH 3KBN7
> > Naperville, Illinois
>
>
>
>
From KingPinion at aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 01:14:46 EDT
Subject: Re: Letterman's Healeys
I beleive one or two of the Healeys were restored by Peter's Marina Motors
over in Marina Del Rey. I remember Peter showing me a couple of pictures
taken during various stages of the project. I like his work. He a pretty
sharp cat and knows his $#*%. I here Letterman keeps em' stored in an
airport garage or mini hanger (not Area 51)
From "Kent McLean" <kentmclean at mindspring.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 01:41:47 -0400
Subject: British car meet in Westminster VT?
Gentlepeople,
In years past there was a British car meet in held Westminster VT sponsored
by the MG Car Museum. It was usually held on Columbus Day weekend. Does
anyone know if it is still being held? I couldn't find anything on it doing
a web search.
Thank you.
Kent McLean
'56 100, BN2 in bits and pieces and piles of rust
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 05:39:09 -0500
Subject: Re: Austin Versus Healey/Henry Austin
that's portrait with an i
----- Original Message -----
From: "kirk kvam" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Graham Healey" <Graham_Healey@lse.com.au>,
"'Michael Salter'" <magicare@home.com>, <CCruz@tribune.com>
Subject: Austin Versus Healey/Henry Austin
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 21:59:06 -0700
I believe it was Henry Austin as I have a 1924 Christmas card signed by him
with his portrate.
Kirk Kvam
----- Original Message -----
From: "Graham Healey" <Graham_Healey@lse.com.au>
To: "'Michael Salter'" <magicare@home.com>; <CCruz@tribune.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 18, 2000 3:26 PM
Subject: RE: Austin Versus Healey
>
> I do not remember what happened to the man behind Austin, only that
Leonard
> Lord took over the running of the company in around 1939 and he was
> instrumental in the joining of Austin & Healey. So its a bit like the MG's
> there was no face behind the company in its later stages. This is what
makes
> Healey's so remarkable, that Donald Healey was the "Man" from start to
> finish. There were very few British car companies that were like this.
> Morgan, Lotus for sure, any more?
>
> Regards
> Graham
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Michael Salter
> Sent: 19-Sep-2000 5:08
> To: CCruz@tribune.com
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Austin Versus Healey
>
>
>
> Hi Carlos,
> Here is a little that I remember.
> Austin was Herbert Austin who, much like William Morris, was one of the
few
> who
> succeeded in the automobile manufacturing business in England early last
> century.
> Morris became Lord Nuffield. I don't know if Austin was ever knighted.
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
>
> CCruz@tribune.com wrote:
>
> > Good morning Listers,
> >
> > I'm in the process of considering the acquisition of another "toy". The
> > Healey is getting lonely and since the nights are getting colder... well
> you
> > know. One of the cars being considered is a '50 Austin Panel Van.
Doing
> > some research over the weekend I began to think about something (ya, I
> know
> > - not necessarily a good thing). I thought I could benefit from a
> history
> > lesson and what better place to start then with all the historians on
this
> > list.
> >
> > It's obvious from list List, the AHCA, AHCUSA and all the Healey events
> that
> > Healey-owners hold Donald Healey in very high regards, the "father" of
our
> > cars. I have to admint this connection with a person is one of the many
> > mystics that make owning one of Donald's cars a true pleasure.
> >
> > I'm curious if anyone knows why a similar affection is not held for the
> > "Austin" half of the marquee? Is "Austin" a real individual or just
> > corporation personified? Any history buffs out there willing to share
> with
> > the rest of us? Hopefully this makes for an interesting thread.
> >
> > Best regards,
> > Carlos Cruz
> > '60 AH 3KBN7
> > Naperville, Illinois
>
>
>
>
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 05:52:35 -0500
Subject: Re: Austin Versus Healey/Henry Austin
you may have a card from henry, however, Sir Herbert was the one at austin.
maybe the card was from Henry J Kaiser. remember the "Henry J" ?
----- Original Message -----
From: "kirk kvam" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Graham Healey" <Graham_Healey@lse.com.au>,
"'Michael Salter'" <magicare@home.com>, <CCruz@tribune.com>
Subject: Austin Versus Healey/Henry Austin
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 21:59:06 -0700
I believe it was Henry Austin as I have a 1924 Christmas card signed by him
with his portrate.
Kirk Kvam
----- Original Message -----
From: "Graham Healey" <Graham_Healey@lse.com.au>
To: "'Michael Salter'" <magicare@home.com>; <CCruz@tribune.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 18, 2000 3:26 PM
Subject: RE: Austin Versus Healey
>
> I do not remember what happened to the man behind Austin, only that
Leonard
> Lord took over the running of the company in around 1939 and he was
> instrumental in the joining of Austin & Healey. So its a bit like the MG's
> there was no face behind the company in its later stages. This is what
makes
> Healey's so remarkable, that Donald Healey was the "Man" from start to
> finish. There were very few British car companies that were like this.
> Morgan, Lotus for sure, any more?
>
> Regards
> Graham
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Michael Salter
> Sent: 19-Sep-2000 5:08
> To: CCruz@tribune.com
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Austin Versus Healey
>
>
>
> Hi Carlos,
> Here is a little that I remember.
> Austin was Herbert Austin who, much like William Morris, was one of the
few
> who
> succeeded in the automobile manufacturing business in England early last
> century.
> Morris became Lord Nuffield. I don't know if Austin was ever knighted.
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
>
> CCruz@tribune.com wrote:
>
> > Good morning Listers,
> >
> > I'm in the process of considering the acquisition of another "toy". The
> > Healey is getting lonely and since the nights are getting colder... well
> you
> > know. One of the cars being considered is a '50 Austin Panel Van.
Doing
> > some research over the weekend I began to think about something (ya, I
> know
> > - not necessarily a good thing). I thought I could benefit from a
> history
> > lesson and what better place to start then with all the historians on
this
> > list.
> >
> > It's obvious from list List, the AHCA, AHCUSA and all the Healey events
> that
> > Healey-owners hold Donald Healey in very high regards, the "father" of
our
> > cars. I have to admint this connection with a person is one of the many
> > mystics that make owning one of Donald's cars a true pleasure.
> >
> > I'm curious if anyone knows why a similar affection is not held for the
> > "Austin" half of the marquee? Is "Austin" a real individual or just
> > corporation personified? Any history buffs out there willing to share
> with
> > the rest of us? Hopefully this makes for an interesting thread.
> >
> > Best regards,
> > Carlos Cruz
> > '60 AH 3KBN7
> > Naperville, Illinois
>
>
>
>
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at connect.comdek.net.au>
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 20:02:44 +0800
Subject: Re: STP in Steering box?
Penrite do have a product called 'Steering Box Lube' and is "A high
viscosity 'self levelling' grease containing non-corrosive extreme pressure
additives to provide film strength. Suitable for veteran/vintage and some
classic car steering boxes'.
Haven't tried it myself but keep looking or try the grease that is used for
CV joints. Molydenum di sulphide base I believe. Sticks to anything and
doesn't leak out of the steering box.
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
BT7 in restoration
----- Original Message -----
From: Brian Collins <bcolins@airmail.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2000 1:11 AM
Subject: STP in Steering box?
>
> Seems to me I read somewhere that a fellow list member had found STP to be
a
> suitable non leaking lube for out steering boxes. Can anyone speak from
> experience on this---I haven't been able to find the steering box lube
> supposedly marketed by Penrite.
> Brian
>
>
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 08:38:22 -0400
Subject: Re: Austin Versus Healey/Henry Austin
The old gray cells have failed again. It was Herbert Austin.
b. 8 Nov. 1866 son of a poor Buckinghamshire farmer.
Educated at Rotherham Grammar School and Brampton Commercial College.
Apprenticed with Great Northern Railway but never started his apprenticeship
because he sailed to Australia with his uncle Walter Simpson.
Perfected, with Frederick York Wolseley, a mechanical sheering system.
Established, back in England, The Wolseley Tool & Motor Company to manufacture
the sheering system.
Wolseley resigned and Austin expanded the company into the manufacture of
automobiles after building two experimental three wheelers in 1896. His first
was one of the first to have a gate gear change that was in the "E" pattern.
His second car was was offered for sale at the 1896 National Cycle Show at
Crystal Palace but it is thought that none sold.
The first Wolseley four wheeler was built in 1899.
Production at Wolseley was up to 10 cars a week when Austin left to start the
Austin Motor Company.
The Austin company produced thousands of cars including the famous "Austin
Seven" of which 60,000 had been built by 1928 and were being built under licence
in France as the Rosengard, Germany as the Dixi, America as the Bantam and Japan
as the Datsun.
Became Lord Austin of Longbridge in 1936.
Production by 1939 was approaching 100,000 per year.
Was still "in harness" when he died of a heart attack in 1941.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
kirk kvam wrote:
> I believe it was Henry Austin as I have a 1924 Christmas card signed by him
> with his portrate.
>
> Kirk Kvam
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Graham Healey" <Graham_Healey@lse.com.au>
> To: "'Michael Salter'" <magicare@home.com>; <CCruz@tribune.com>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, September 18, 2000 3:26 PM
> Subject: RE: Austin Versus Healey
>
> >
> > I do not remember what happened to the man behind Austin, only that
> Leonard
> > Lord took over the running of the company in around 1939 and he was
> > instrumental in the joining of Austin & Healey. So its a bit like the MG's
> > there was no face behind the company in its later stages. This is what
> makes
> > Healey's so remarkable, that Donald Healey was the "Man" from start to
> > finish. There were very few British car companies that were like this.
> > Morgan, Lotus for sure, any more?
> >
> > Regards
> > Graham
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> > [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Michael Salter
> > Sent: 19-Sep-2000 5:08
> > To: CCruz@tribune.com
> > Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: Austin Versus Healey
> >
> >
> >
> > Hi Carlos,
> > Here is a little that I remember.
> > Austin was Herbert Austin who, much like William Morris, was one of the
> few
> > who
> > succeeded in the automobile manufacturing business in England early last
> > century.
> > Morris became Lord Nuffield. I don't know if Austin was ever knighted.
> > --
> > Regards,
> >
> > Mike Salter
> > http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> > >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> >
> >
> > CCruz@tribune.com wrote:
> >
> > > Good morning Listers,
> > >
> > > I'm in the process of considering the acquisition of another "toy". The
> > > Healey is getting lonely and since the nights are getting colder... well
> > you
> > > know. One of the cars being considered is a '50 Austin Panel Van.
> Doing
> > > some research over the weekend I began to think about something (ya, I
> > know
> > > - not necessarily a good thing). I thought I could benefit from a
> > history
> > > lesson and what better place to start then with all the historians on
> this
> > > list.
> > >
> > > It's obvious from list List, the AHCA, AHCUSA and all the Healey events
> > that
> > > Healey-owners hold Donald Healey in very high regards, the "father" of
> our
> > > cars. I have to admint this connection with a person is one of the many
> > > mystics that make owning one of Donald's cars a true pleasure.
> > >
> > > I'm curious if anyone knows why a similar affection is not held for the
> > > "Austin" half of the marquee? Is "Austin" a real individual or just
> > > corporation personified? Any history buffs out there willing to share
> > with
> > > the rest of us? Hopefully this makes for an interesting thread.
> > >
> > > Best regards,
> > > Carlos Cruz
> > > '60 AH 3KBN7
> > > Naperville, Illinois
> >
> >
> >
> >
From CNAArndt at aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 08:43:49 EDT
Subject: Re: STP in Steering box?
In a message dated 09/19/2000 5:05:30 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
jarowe@connect.comdek.net.au writes:
<< Penrite do have a product called 'Steering Box Lube' and is "A high
viscosity 'self levelling' grease containing non-corrosive extreme pressure
additives to provide film strength. Suitable for veteran/vintage and some
classic car steering boxes'. >>
Penrite used to feature a 100S in their advertisements along with some other
non-descript 20's sedan. I believe the one that I saw was in Hemming's Motor
News a few years ago.
Curt
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 08:59:30 -0400
Subject: RE: Austin Versus Healey/Henry Austin
I knew there had to be a reason I like British cars... Nov. 8 is my birthday
also...;-)
Steve
61 BN7
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Salter [mailto:magicare@home.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2000 8:38 AM
To: kirk kvam
Cc: Graham Healey; CCruz@tribune.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Austin Versus Healey/Henry Austin
The old gray cells have failed again. It was Herbert Austin.
b. 8 Nov. 1866 son of a poor Buckinghamshire farmer.
Educated at Rotherham Grammar School and Brampton Commercial College.
Apprenticed with Great Northern Railway but never started his apprenticeship
because he sailed to Australia with his uncle Walter Simpson.
Perfected, with Frederick York Wolseley, a mechanical sheering system.
Established, back in England, The Wolseley Tool & Motor Company to
manufacture
the sheering system.
Wolseley resigned and Austin expanded the company into the manufacture of
automobiles after building two experimental three wheelers in 1896. His
first
was one of the first to have a gate gear change that was in the "E" pattern.
His second car was was offered for sale at the 1896 National Cycle Show at
Crystal Palace but it is thought that none sold.
The first Wolseley four wheeler was built in 1899.
Production at Wolseley was up to 10 cars a week when Austin left to start
the
Austin Motor Company.
The Austin company produced thousands of cars including the famous "Austin
Seven" of which 60,000 had been built by 1928 and were being built under
licence
in France as the Rosengard, Germany as the Dixi, America as the Bantam and
Japan
as the Datsun.
Became Lord Austin of Longbridge in 1936.
Production by 1939 was approaching 100,000 per year.
Was still "in harness" when he died of a heart attack in 1941.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
kirk kvam wrote:
> I believe it was Henry Austin as I have a 1924 Christmas card signed by
him
> with his portrate.
>
> Kirk Kvam
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Graham Healey" <Graham_Healey@lse.com.au>
> To: "'Michael Salter'" <magicare@home.com>; <CCruz@tribune.com>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, September 18, 2000 3:26 PM
> Subject: RE: Austin Versus Healey
>
> >
> > I do not remember what happened to the man behind Austin, only that
> Leonard
> > Lord took over the running of the company in around 1939 and he was
> > instrumental in the joining of Austin & Healey. So its a bit like the
MG's
> > there was no face behind the company in its later stages. This is what
> makes
> > Healey's so remarkable, that Donald Healey was the "Man" from start to
> > finish. There were very few British car companies that were like this.
> > Morgan, Lotus for sure, any more?
> >
> > Regards
> > Graham
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> > [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Michael Salter
> > Sent: 19-Sep-2000 5:08
> > To: CCruz@tribune.com
> > Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: Austin Versus Healey
> >
> >
> >
> > Hi Carlos,
> > Here is a little that I remember.
> > Austin was Herbert Austin who, much like William Morris, was one of the
> few
> > who
> > succeeded in the automobile manufacturing business in England early last
> > century.
> > Morris became Lord Nuffield. I don't know if Austin was ever knighted.
> > --
> > Regards,
> >
> > Mike Salter
> > http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> > >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> >
> >
> > CCruz@tribune.com wrote:
> >
> > > Good morning Listers,
> > >
> > > I'm in the process of considering the acquisition of another "toy".
The
> > > Healey is getting lonely and since the nights are getting colder...
well
> > you
> > > know. One of the cars being considered is a '50 Austin Panel Van.
> Doing
> > > some research over the weekend I began to think about something (ya, I
> > know
> > > - not necessarily a good thing). I thought I could benefit from a
> > history
> > > lesson and what better place to start then with all the historians on
> this
> > > list.
> > >
> > > It's obvious from list List, the AHCA, AHCUSA and all the Healey
events
> > that
> > > Healey-owners hold Donald Healey in very high regards, the "father" of
> our
> > > cars. I have to admint this connection with a person is one of the
many
> > > mystics that make owning one of Donald's cars a true pleasure.
> > >
> > > I'm curious if anyone knows why a similar affection is not held for
the
> > > "Austin" half of the marquee? Is "Austin" a real individual or just
> > > corporation personified? Any history buffs out there willing to
share
> > with
> > > the rest of us? Hopefully this makes for an interesting thread.
> > >
> > > Best regards,
> > > Carlos Cruz
> > > '60 AH 3KBN7
> > > Naperville, Illinois
> >
> >
> >
> >
From <CCruz at tribune.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 08:29:36 -0500
Subject: RE: Austin Versus Healey/Henry Austin
Thank you everyone for the responses. Michael, I especially enjoyed the
history lesson. Knowing more about the people behind the machines makes
owning these old cars that much more enjoyable.
Thanks again,
Carlos Cruz
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Salter [mailto:magicare@home.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2000 7:38 AM
To: kirk kvam
Cc: Graham Healey; Cruz, Carlos; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Austin Versus Healey/Henry Austin
The old gray cells have failed again. It was Herbert Austin.
b. 8 Nov. 1866 son of a poor Buckinghamshire farmer.
Educated at Rotherham Grammar School and Brampton Commercial College.
Apprenticed with Great Northern Railway but never started his apprenticeship
because he sailed to Australia with his uncle Walter Simpson.
Perfected, with Frederick York Wolseley, a mechanical sheering system.
Established, back in England, The Wolseley Tool & Motor Company to
manufacture
the sheering system.
Wolseley resigned and Austin expanded the company into the manufacture of
automobiles after building two experimental three wheelers in 1896. His
first
was one of the first to have a gate gear change that was in the "E" pattern.
His second car was was offered for sale at the 1896 National Cycle Show at
Crystal Palace but it is thought that none sold.
The first Wolseley four wheeler was built in 1899.
Production at Wolseley was up to 10 cars a week when Austin left to start
the
Austin Motor Company.
The Austin company produced thousands of cars including the famous "Austin
Seven" of which 60,000 had been built by 1928 and were being built under
licence
in France as the Rosengard, Germany as the Dixi, America as the Bantam and
Japan
as the Datsun.
Became Lord Austin of Longbridge in 1936.
Production by 1939 was approaching 100,000 per year.
Was still "in harness" when he died of a heart attack in 1941.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
kirk kvam wrote:
> I believe it was Henry Austin as I have a 1924 Christmas card signed by
him
> with his portrate.
>
> Kirk Kvam
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Graham Healey" <Graham_Healey@lse.com.au>
> To: "'Michael Salter'" <magicare@home.com>; <CCruz@tribune.com>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, September 18, 2000 3:26 PM
> Subject: RE: Austin Versus Healey
>
> >
> > I do not remember what happened to the man behind Austin, only that
> Leonard
> > Lord took over the running of the company in around 1939 and he was
> > instrumental in the joining of Austin & Healey. So its a bit like the
MG's
> > there was no face behind the company in its later stages. This is what
> makes
> > Healey's so remarkable, that Donald Healey was the "Man" from start to
> > finish. There were very few British car companies that were like this.
> > Morgan, Lotus for sure, any more?
> >
> > Regards
> > Graham
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> > [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Michael Salter
> > Sent: 19-Sep-2000 5:08
> > To: CCruz@tribune.com
> > Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: Austin Versus Healey
> >
> >
> >
> > Hi Carlos,
> > Here is a little that I remember.
> > Austin was Herbert Austin who, much like William Morris, was one of the
> few
> > who
> > succeeded in the automobile manufacturing business in England early last
> > century.
> > Morris became Lord Nuffield. I don't know if Austin was ever knighted.
> > --
> > Regards,
> >
> > Mike Salter
> > http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> > >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> >
> >
> > CCruz@tribune.com wrote:
> >
> > > Good morning Listers,
> > >
> > > I'm in the process of considering the acquisition of another "toy".
The
> > > Healey is getting lonely and since the nights are getting colder...
well
> > you
> > > know. One of the cars being considered is a '50 Austin Panel Van.
> Doing
> > > some research over the weekend I began to think about something (ya, I
> > know
> > > - not necessarily a good thing). I thought I could benefit from a
> > history
> > > lesson and what better place to start then with all the historians on
> this
> > > list.
> > >
> > > It's obvious from list List, the AHCA, AHCUSA and all the Healey
events
> > that
> > > Healey-owners hold Donald Healey in very high regards, the "father" of
> our
> > > cars. I have to admint this connection with a person is one of the
many
> > > mystics that make owning one of Donald's cars a true pleasure.
> > >
> > > I'm curious if anyone knows why a similar affection is not held for
the
> > > "Austin" half of the marquee? Is "Austin" a real individual or just
> > > corporation personified? Any history buffs out there willing to
share
> > with
> > > the rest of us? Hopefully this makes for an interesting thread.
> > >
> > > Best regards,
> > > Carlos Cruz
> > > '60 AH 3KBN7
> > > Naperville, Illinois
> >
> >
> >
> >
From Tomdamit at aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 09:44:56 EDT
Subject: Healey motorcycle
Hey folks. Is it possible that Donald, Geoff et al produced a motorcycle?
I've come across a "Healey 1000 SQ4". It appears to be based on an Ariel
Square four.
From "kirk kvam" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 07:04:55 -0700
Subject: Re: Austin Versus Healey/Henry Austin
Hi Jerry
I (i) did that, for just that reason, sharp minds/eyes travel in small
Healey circles
and yes I do remember the Henry J as the Kaiser / Frazer (do you remember
Frazer ?) assembly plant was located at the WW II Douglas Aircraft
plant approximately one mile from my house in Long Beach CA.
Kirk
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <62BT7@prodigy.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2000 3:39 AM
Subject: Re: Austin Versus Healey/Henry Austin
> that's portrait with an i
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: "kirk kvam" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
> To: "Graham Healey" <Graham_Healey@lse.com.au>,
> "'Michael Salter'" <magicare@home.com>, <CCruz@tribune.com>
> Subject: Austin Versus Healey/Henry Austin
> Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 21:59:06 -0700
>
>
> I believe it was Henry Austin as I have a 1924 Christmas card signed by
him
> with his portrate.
>
> Kirk Kvam
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Graham Healey" <Graham_Healey@lse.com.au>
> To: "'Michael Salter'" <magicare@home.com>; <CCruz@tribune.com>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, September 18, 2000 3:26 PM
> Subject: RE: Austin Versus Healey
>
>
> >
> > I do not remember what happened to the man behind Austin, only that
> Leonard
> > Lord took over the running of the company in around 1939 and he was
> > instrumental in the joining of Austin & Healey. So its a bit like the
MG's
> > there was no face behind the company in its later stages. This is what
> makes
> > Healey's so remarkable, that Donald Healey was the "Man" from start to
> > finish. There were very few British car companies that were like this.
> > Morgan, Lotus for sure, any more?
> >
> > Regards
> > Graham
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> > [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Michael Salter
> > Sent: 19-Sep-2000 5:08
> > To: CCruz@tribune.com
> > Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: Austin Versus Healey
> >
> >
> >
> > Hi Carlos,
> > Here is a little that I remember.
> > Austin was Herbert Austin who, much like William Morris, was one of the
> few
> > who
> > succeeded in the automobile manufacturing business in England early last
> > century.
> > Morris became Lord Nuffield. I don't know if Austin was ever knighted.
> > --
> > Regards,
> >
> > Mike Salter
> > http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> > >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> >
> >
> > CCruz@tribune.com wrote:
> >
> > > Good morning Listers,
> > >
> > > I'm in the process of considering the acquisition of another "toy".
The
> > > Healey is getting lonely and since the nights are getting colder...
well
> > you
> > > know. One of the cars being considered is a '50 Austin Panel Van.
> Doing
> > > some research over the weekend I began to think about something (ya, I
> > know
> > > - not necessarily a good thing). I thought I could benefit from a
> > history
> > > lesson and what better place to start then with all the historians on
> this
> > > list.
> > >
> > > It's obvious from list List, the AHCA, AHCUSA and all the Healey
events
> > that
> > > Healey-owners hold Donald Healey in very high regards, the "father" of
> our
> > > cars. I have to admint this connection with a person is one of the
many
> > > mystics that make owning one of Donald's cars a true pleasure.
> > >
> > > I'm curious if anyone knows why a similar affection is not held for
the
> > > "Austin" half of the marquee? Is "Austin" a real individual or just
> > > corporation personified? Any history buffs out there willing to
share
> > with
> > > the rest of us? Hopefully this makes for an interesting thread.
> > >
> > > Best regards,
> > > Carlos Cruz
> > > '60 AH 3KBN7
> > > Naperville, Illinois
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
From Jim Rowan <jimrowan at uic.edu>
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 09:14:48 -0500
Subject: Re: tailgating - was trucks paranoia
Works even better if you have a rear washer
then you don't have to dirty up you newly washed
car. My old CRX rear washer nozzle was at a perfect
angle.
Cheers,
James
At 07:22 PM 09/18/2000 -0400, skip saunders wrote:
>
>I told myself I wasn't going to get involved in this thread... But if
>you don't have beer can ready to fly out of your truck bed, there is a
>much better solution... and it works for nearly all cars.
>
>If I find someone is tailgating too close to me, I simply wash my front
>windscreen. At nearly any speed over 30mph, the spray on the
>windshield has enough splash and misting action, that some of the water
>finds its way to the tailgater's windshield...
>
>I figure I'm doing three good things:
>
>Cleaning my windshield, so I have a better view of any road hazards
>ahead;
>
>Cleaning the other guy's/gal's windshield so he/she can better see my
>tail-lights/brake-lights if there were a problem there....
>
>and I'm reminding him/her in a very gentle way that they are too close.
>
>Tends to work pretty well....
>-Skip-
From "Bob Judd" <bob.judd at quokka.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 07:31:29 -0700
Subject: RE: Austin Versus Healey
Sydney Allard who's great hybred beasts blew away Ferraris in the early
1950s. Sydney's first notable car was a Bugatti with twin rear wheels and a
Steyr air-cooled aircraft engine. His own cars ran the gamut from a
bulbous, long nose two seater with a flat-head Ford V-8 (L-type) to the
great J-2s and J-2xs and J-2rs to dragsters.
Bob Judd
BN2 V8
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Lupynec [mailto:mlupynec@globalserve.net]
Sent: Monday, September 18, 2000 5:39 PM
To: Graham Healey; 'Michael Salter'; CCruz@tribune.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Austin Versus Healey
Sir William Lyons - the guy behind Jags from start to finish.
Mike L.
60A,67E,59Bug
----- Original Message -----
From: Graham Healey <Graham_Healey@lse.com.au>
To: 'Michael Salter' <magicare@home.com>; <CCruz@tribune.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: September 18, 2000 6:26 PM
Subject: RE: Austin Versus Healey
>
> I do not remember what happened to the man behind Austin, only
that Leonard
> Lord took over the running of the company in around 1939 and he
was
> instrumental in the joining of Austin & Healey. So its a bit
like the MG's
> there was no face behind the company in its later stages. This
is what makes
> Healey's so remarkable, that Donald Healey was the "Man" from
start to
> finish. There were very few British car companies that were like
this.
> Morgan, Lotus for sure, any more?
>
> Regards
> Graham
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Michael Salter
> Sent: 19-Sep-2000 5:08
> To: CCruz@tribune.com
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Austin Versus Healey
>
>
>
> Hi Carlos,
> Here is a little that I remember.
> Austin was Herbert Austin who, much like William Morris, was one
of the few
> who
> succeeded in the automobile manufacturing business in England
early last
> century.
> Morris became Lord Nuffield. I don't know if Austin was ever
knighted.
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
>
> CCruz@tribune.com wrote:
>
> > Good morning Listers,
> >
> > I'm in the process of considering the acquisition of another
"toy". The
> > Healey is getting lonely and since the nights are getting
colder... well
> you
> > know. One of the cars being considered is a '50 Austin Panel
Van. Doing
> > some research over the weekend I began to think about
something (ya, I
> know
> > - not necessarily a good thing). I thought I could benefit
from a
> history
> > lesson and what better place to start then with all the
historians on this
> > list.
> >
> > It's obvious from list List, the AHCA, AHCUSA and all the
Healey events
> that
> > Healey-owners hold Donald Healey in very high regards, the
"father" of our
> > cars. I have to admint this connection with a person is one
of the many
> > mystics that make owning one of Donald's cars a true pleasure.
> >
> > I'm curious if anyone knows why a similar affection is not
held for the
> > "Austin" half of the marquee? Is "Austin" a real individual
or just
> > corporation personified? Any history buffs out there willing
to share
> with
> > the rest of us? Hopefully this makes for an interesting
thread.
> >
> > Best regards,
> > Carlos Cruz
> > '60 AH 3KBN7
> > Naperville, Illinois
>
>
>
>
>
From Fred Hunter <fhunter at kcnet.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 09:56:19 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey motorcycle
Tomdamit@aol.com wrote:
>
> Hey folks. Is it possible that Donald, Geoff et al produced a motorcycle?
> I've come across a "Healey 1000 SQ4". It appears to be based on an Ariel
> Square four.
Tom:
Anything's possible, I guess. Donald, Geoff and Roger Menadue were all
inveterate tinkerers.
What's the story behind this supposed "Healey 1000 Square 4"? Which
parts does the owner claim are Healey, and which parts Ariel SQ 4? And
what does the title say it is?
This would be a very interesting find if it can be substantiated that it
really is a Healey modified SQ4.
Best regards,
Fred Hunter
Why is it
When you
Try to pass
The guy in front
Goes twice as fast?
--Burma-Shave--
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 07:55:04 -0700
Subject: RE: Healey motorcycle
I have a book that covers this motorcycle. No connection to the Healey's we
all know and love mentioned in the book.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: Fred Hunter [mailto:fhunter@kcnet.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2000 7:56 AM
To: Tomdamit@aol.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net; JH67HEALEY@aol.com
Subject: Re: Healey motorcycle
Tomdamit@aol.com wrote:
>
> Hey folks. Is it possible that Donald, Geoff et al produced a motorcycle?
> I've come across a "Healey 1000 SQ4". It appears to be based on an Ariel
> Square four.
Tom:
Anything's possible, I guess. Donald, Geoff and Roger Menadue were all
inveterate tinkerers.
What's the story behind this supposed "Healey 1000 Square 4"? Which
parts does the owner claim are Healey, and which parts Ariel SQ 4? And
what does the title say it is?
This would be a very interesting find if it can be substantiated that it
really is a Healey modified SQ4.
Best regards,
Fred Hunter
Why is it
When you
Try to pass
The guy in front
Goes twice as fast?
--Burma-Shave--
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 11:17:11 EDT
Subject: Re: BN1/2 ORIG. BUMPER/CLUTCH PARTS
In a message dated 9/18/00 3:14:04 PM, CNAArndt@aol.com writes:
<<
3. Original Style Clutch Rods and Lever: The only clutch operating rods and
lever available for many years, that I am aware of, have been manufactured
by Kilmartin in Australia. The clutch operating lever and long rod that
Kilmartin makes are very close to the originals, however the short rod is
made out of square steel stock instead of 5/16" steel rod like the original.
The reason for this is that the original rods were very prone to breaking
because of the stress put on this thin steel rod. My machinist is making up
a few sets of these clutch rods out of a very strong stainless steel that
will look identical to the originals but will be designed not to break like
the originals. I already have about six people interested in these items
(two clutch rods and the operating lever), but if anyone else is interested
in original looking, quality parts designed to last, let me know since the
price will go down the more I have made. No specific quote yet on price yet,
however my machinist and I think that they will be in the range of what the
various vendors currently sell the Kilmartin parts for. >>
*******************************
The square rod was not a Kilmartin design. The change from the round 5/16 rod
to the square rod was by Healey back in the early 60's.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>Br
itishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From "David" <david_m at radiantsoundworks.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 11:58:59 -0400
Subject: "average"
> Why is it
> When you
> Try to pass
> The guy in front
> Goes twice as fast?
> --Burma-Shave--
>
Because...unfortunately he's an "average" human....an "average" driver.
There are more of them than anything else. No thought goes into driving by
"average" humans. No thought....just reactive human emotions. Not
ideal....VERY annoying....but reality none-the-less. We are all guilty of
such annoying foolishness at one time or another. The "thinkers" catch
themselves more often than not. The mindless just do it....over and over and
over....day after day....year after year. Blind....mindless..."driving"?
That's life!
Why do drivers do all of the stupid things that they do? I question it every
single day....and the above is the only answer that I am ever able to come
to. Sorry for the pessimism....you caught me at the right (?) time I guess!
Dave
BJ8
TR4A
From skip saunders <tfs at mitre.org>
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 11:59:26 -0400
Subject: Re: Austin Versus Healey
At the British Invasion meeting in Vermont last year, I met a new fellow
with last name Allard, no relation to Sydney, who has bought the rights
to the name and all the molds for creating new Allard cars...He came to
Vermont with a new Allard outfitted with a Cadillac engine... He's going
to go into "production" and sell them new... I've forgotten the prices
and delivery details, and I really don't any more info, but I'd guess
that he will be advertising somewhere sometime before too long.
-Skip-
Bob Judd wrote:
>
> Sydney Allard who's great hybred beasts blew away Ferraris in the early
> 1950s. Sydney's first notable car was a Bugatti with twin rear wheels and a
> Steyr air-cooled aircraft engine. His own cars ran the gamut from a
> bulbous, long nose two seater with a flat-head Ford V-8 (L-type) to the
> great J-2s and J-2xs and J-2rs to dragsters.
>
> Bob Judd
> BN2 V8
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael Lupynec [mailto:mlupynec@globalserve.net]
> Sent: Monday, September 18, 2000 5:39 PM
> To: Graham Healey; 'Michael Salter'; CCruz@tribune.com
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Austin Versus Healey
>
> Sir William Lyons - the guy behind Jags from start to finish.
>
> Mike L.
> 60A,67E,59Bug
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Graham Healey <Graham_Healey@lse.com.au>
> To: 'Michael Salter' <magicare@home.com>; <CCruz@tribune.com>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: September 18, 2000 6:26 PM
> Subject: RE: Austin Versus Healey
>
> >
> > I do not remember what happened to the man behind Austin, only
> that Leonard
> > Lord took over the running of the company in around 1939 and he
> was
> > instrumental in the joining of Austin & Healey. So its a bit
> like the MG's
> > there was no face behind the company in its later stages. This
> is what makes
> > Healey's so remarkable, that Donald Healey was the "Man" from
> start to
> > finish. There were very few British car companies that were like
> this.
> > Morgan, Lotus for sure, any more?
> >
> > Regards
> > Graham
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> > [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Michael Salter
> > Sent: 19-Sep-2000 5:08
> > To: CCruz@tribune.com
> > Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: Austin Versus Healey
> >
> >
> >
> > Hi Carlos,
> > Here is a little that I remember.
> > Austin was Herbert Austin who, much like William Morris, was one
> of the few
> > who
> > succeeded in the automobile manufacturing business in England
> early last
> > century.
> > Morris became Lord Nuffield. I don't know if Austin was ever
> knighted.
> > --
> > Regards,
> >
> > Mike Salter
> > http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> > >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> >
> >
> > CCruz@tribune.com wrote:
> >
> > > Good morning Listers,
> > >
> > > I'm in the process of considering the acquisition of another
> "toy". The
> > > Healey is getting lonely and since the nights are getting
> colder... well
> > you
> > > know. One of the cars being considered is a '50 Austin Panel
> Van. Doing
> > > some research over the weekend I began to think about
> something (ya, I
> > know
> > > - not necessarily a good thing). I thought I could benefit
> from a
> > history
> > > lesson and what better place to start then with all the
> historians on this
> > > list.
> > >
> > > It's obvious from list List, the AHCA, AHCUSA and all the
> Healey events
> > that
> > > Healey-owners hold Donald Healey in very high regards, the
> "father" of our
> > > cars. I have to admint this connection with a person is one
> of the many
> > > mystics that make owning one of Donald's cars a true pleasure.
> > >
> > > I'm curious if anyone knows why a similar affection is not
> held for the
> > > "Austin" half of the marquee? Is "Austin" a real individual
> or just
> > > corporation personified? Any history buffs out there willing
> to share
> > with
> > > the rest of us? Hopefully this makes for an interesting
> thread.
> > >
> > > Best regards,
> > > Carlos Cruz
> > > '60 AH 3KBN7
> > > Naperville, Illinois
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 13:07:02 EDT
Subject: upcoming events
When is the Hershey Show?
When is the Carlisle Show?
Thanks--Michael
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 10:12:14 -0700
Subject: Re: Austin Versus Healey
http://www.allardj2x.com/
------------------------
At 08:59 AM 9/19/00 , skip saunders wrote:
>At the British Invasion meeting in Vermont last year, I met a new fellow
>with last name Allard, no relation to Sydney, who has bought the rights
>to the name and all the molds for creating new Allard cars...He came to
>Vermont with a new Allard outfitted with a Cadillac engine... He's going
>to go into "production" and sell them new... I've forgotten the prices
>and delivery details, and I really don't any more info, but I'd guess
>that he will be advertising somewhere sometime before too long.
>
>-Skip-
>
>Bob Judd wrote:
> >
> > Sydney Allard who's great hybred beasts blew away Ferraris in the early
> > 1950s. Sydney's first notable car was a Bugatti with twin rear wheels
> and a
> > Steyr air-cooled aircraft engine. His own cars ran the gamut from a
> > bulbous, long nose two seater with a flat-head Ford V-8 (L-type) to the
> > great J-2s and J-2xs and J-2rs to dragsters.
> >
> > Bob Judd
> > BN2 V8
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Michael Lupynec [mailto:mlupynec@globalserve.net]
> > Sent: Monday, September 18, 2000 5:39 PM
> > To: Graham Healey; 'Michael Salter'; CCruz@tribune.com
> > Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: Austin Versus Healey
> >
> > Sir William Lyons - the guy behind Jags from start to finish.
> >
> > Mike L.
> > 60A,67E,59Bug
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Graham Healey <Graham_Healey@lse.com.au>
> > To: 'Michael Salter' <magicare@home.com>; <CCruz@tribune.com>
> > Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: September 18, 2000 6:26 PM
> > Subject: RE: Austin Versus Healey
> >
> > >
> > > I do not remember what happened to the man behind Austin, only
> > that Leonard
> > > Lord took over the running of the company in around 1939 and he
> > was
> > > instrumental in the joining of Austin & Healey. So its a bit
> > like the MG's
> > > there was no face behind the company in its later stages. This
> > is what makes
> > > Healey's so remarkable, that Donald Healey was the "Man" from
> > start to
> > > finish. There were very few British car companies that were like
> > this.
> > > Morgan, Lotus for sure, any more?
> > >
> > > Regards
> > > Graham
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> > > [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Michael Salter
> > > Sent: 19-Sep-2000 5:08
> > > To: CCruz@tribune.com
> > > Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> > > Subject: Re: Austin Versus Healey
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Hi Carlos,
> > > Here is a little that I remember.
> > > Austin was Herbert Austin who, much like William Morris, was one
> > of the few
> > > who
> > > succeeded in the automobile manufacturing business in England
> > early last
> > > century.
> > > Morris became Lord Nuffield. I don't know if Austin was ever
> > knighted.
> > > --
> > > Regards,
> > >
> > > Mike Salter
> > > http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> > > >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> > >
> > >
> > > CCruz@tribune.com wrote:
> > >
> > > > Good morning Listers,
> > > >
> > > > I'm in the process of considering the acquisition of another
> > "toy". The
> > > > Healey is getting lonely and since the nights are getting
> > colder... well
> > > you
> > > > know. One of the cars being considered is a '50 Austin Panel
> > Van. Doing
> > > > some research over the weekend I began to think about
> > something (ya, I
> > > know
> > > > - not necessarily a good thing). I thought I could benefit
> > from a
> > > history
> > > > lesson and what better place to start then with all the
> > historians on this
> > > > list.
> > > >
> > > > It's obvious from list List, the AHCA, AHCUSA and all the
> > Healey events
> > > that
> > > > Healey-owners hold Donald Healey in very high regards, the
> > "father" of our
> > > > cars. I have to admint this connection with a person is one
> > of the many
> > > > mystics that make owning one of Donald's cars a true pleasure.
> > > >
> > > > I'm curious if anyone knows why a similar affection is not
> > held for the
> > > > "Austin" half of the marquee? Is "Austin" a real individual
> > or just
> > > > corporation personified? Any history buffs out there willing
> > to share
> > > with
> > > > the rest of us? Hopefully this makes for an interesting
> > thread.
> > > >
> > > > Best regards,
> > > > Carlos Cruz
> > > > '60 AH 3KBN7
> > > > Naperville, Illinois
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
From "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virginnet.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 18:41:16 +0100
Subject: RE: Truck Safety - Paranoids do have enemies
Friend of mine was towing a howitzer back from
manoeuvres. Gun crew had attached it to the end of
the winch drag line instead of the rigid hook.
As the combo lumbered along the strain began to tell on
the winch and the cable began to pay out......
Now, his excuse was that the gun didn't show up in his mirror
while he was on the straight and that as long as he kept rolling
the cable stayed taut enough to keep the gun from dragging.
But, when he slowed for a roundabout, the gun kept going!
It overtook him on the outside and lurched straight over the central
reservation until the cable caught on the truck's front and then it
swung\pivoted across his front and stopped on the road a distance in
front of him.
Nobody was hurt. Miracle.Cable would have beheaded a Healey driver.
The gun was largely undamaged-howitzers are sturdy things by
the very nature of their operating environment. The roundabout
looked pretty wrecked-barely a shrub or a sign left standing.
Friend's pride was damaged.
Simon Lachlan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Healybj8@aol.com
Sent: 19 September 2000 00:05
To: jimrowan@uic.edu; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Truck Safety - serious paranoia
In a message dated 09/18/2000 12:53:15 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
jimrowan@uic.edu writes:
<< Also beware pickup trucks. About a month ago I was traveling behind some
ford pickup on the tollway, speed limit 65. I was about 3 secs behind him
when
the entire plastic bedliner lifted out of the truck flew up about 20 ft
and did a pirouette over the roof of my car narrowly missing me. >>
I couldn't agree more being a truck owner. Too many times people tail gate
so closely to me in my truck that I can't even see their hood! I have a
mat
which I keep covered with something heavy to prevent it from being sucked
out, but stuff does get sucked out on occasion.
I recall one time (which I am not particularly proud of, but still find
humorous none the less) when some girl was tail gating me extremely closely.
( I have had trailered cars give me more space than this!) This was on I-20
and we were doing around 70 mph. I was annoyed, so I started changing my
speed hoping that this girl would either pass or back off. No luck, she
stuck on my rear bumper like she was racing stock cars at Daytona.
Well it seems that there was a empty beer can in the back of my truck that
day for some reason. ;o) A dead soldier from the weekend football tail gate
party. Well since this car was so close it distrubed the air flow in the
back of the truck. The next thing I know this can gets caught in the vortex
of air, gets sucked out and bounces off the hood of her car. It did about
three loops behind the cab of my truck before it exited, and the look on
this
gal's face was priceless. Needless to say she backed wwwaaaayyyy off and I
didn't have any more trouble with her. If she had been following the proper
2-second distance this probably never would have happened, so I figured she
learned her lesson in tail gaiting.
Moral of the story, if you can't see around the truck, back off. Bad things
happen when you anger the truck gods.
Tim
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 13:50:16 EDT
Subject: Re: RE: Truck Safety - Paranoids do have enemies
In a message dated 9/19/00 10:45:54, simon.lachlan@virginnet.co.uk writes:
<< Nobody was hurt. Miracle.Cable would have beheaded a Healey driver.
The gun was largely undamaged-howitzers are sturdy things by
the very nature of their operating environment. The roundabout
looked pretty wrecked-barely a shrub or a sign left standing.
Friend's pride was damaged. >>
That's exactly why I NEVER use my Healey to tow my Howitzer!
From CNAArndt at aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 16:00:47 EDT
Subject: Re: BN1/2 ORIG. BUMPER/CLUTCH PARTS
In a message dated 09/19/2000 8:21:12 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
HLYDOC@aol.com writes:
<< The square rod was not a Kilmartin design. The change from the round 5/16
rod
to the square rod was by Healey back in the early 60's. >>
Hi David
Thanks for the information regarding the the square style rod being a
replacement by the factory, and in fact I thought the same thing might be the
case for many years. The only difference I thought was that the upgraded
short clutch rod was a 1/4" X 3/4" heavy piece of steel bar stock with an
double bend in it to make the proper offset and two pins pressed into either
end. If you have any other information on the exact style of this
replacement rod I would like to know. Maybe the rod in my car, albeit very
nicely made, was an attempt by the PO to fix the problem himself.
Does anyone else out there have the type of short clutch rod that I have
described?
Cheers
Curt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1
From "Donald L. Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 15:53:15 -0500
Subject: Purchasing rights to "Old" car names
Skip Saunders wrote:
has bought the rights
to the name and all the molds for creating new Allard cars...He came to
Vermont with a new Allard outfitted with a Cadillac engine... He's going
to go into "production" and sell them new...
Do you guys know that the Packard name has been purchased and re-sold on
e-bay at auction. They are making a new ultra-luxurious Packard that will
sell for $175,000.
Don
BN7
BTW I thought the SirBrit meet in Newburgh, IN was very successful, a lot
of fun for me. The Old Red Devil wasn't there for show, but I paid the
registration fee anyway and parked down by all the really nice Healeys.
Don
From "Graham Healey" <Graham_Healey at lse.com.au>
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 08:49:19 +1100
Subject: RE: Healey motorcycle
Sorry, no motorcycles. just cars and boats
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Tomdamit@aol.com
Sent: 19-Sep-2000 11:45
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Cc: JH67HEALEY@aol.com
Subject: Healey motorcycle
Hey folks. Is it possible that Donald, Geoff et al produced a motorcycle?
I've come across a "Healey 1000 SQ4". It appears to be based on an Ariel
Square four.
From "Pritchard, Donald" <dpritchard at oceprinting.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 17:51:03 -0400
Subject: RE: upcoming events
Hi Michel,
Which Carlisle show are you talking about ? the one at Carlisle Fairgrounds
or the one at Allenbury (Meeting of the Marquees)? The Meeting of the
Marquees is Sunday September 24th.
Here is the address for Carlisle Fairgrounds: http://www.carsatcarlisle.com/
Here is the address for The Antique Automobile Club of America, who runs the
Hershey show: http://www.aaca.org <http://www.aaca.org>
Don Pritchard
'73 J-H
-----Original Message-----
From: Awgertoo@aol.com [SMTP:Awgertoo@aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2000 1:07 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: upcoming events
When is the Hershey Show?
When is the Carlisle Show?
Thanks--Michael
From Tomdamit at aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 18:56:39 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey motorcycle
Well, if no connection to "our" Healeys, whose Healeys are these????
From Peter Brauen <pbrauen at telepak.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 18:17:57 -0500
Subject: Getting STP in your steering box
Hi All,
Try this for getting the STP in your steering box: Take your grease gun
apart and place an empty tube in the gun. Draw back the rod 'till it locks.
Now pour in the STP (or similar). Screw the pump end back on. Release the
rod. Open the bleed screw to let out the excess air. Start pumping! Let the
lube settle for a few minutes and work the wheel back and forth, then top
off. An air powered gun makes it even faster;-)
Peter (BMC Restorations)
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 19:30:49 EDT
Subject: Was Letterman, Now "Top 10 Reasons for Driving a Healey"
With apologies to Dave:
10. Could have avoided quadruple bypass by undertaking exercise program
consisting
of pushing car to side of road whenever fuel pump quits.
9. Erecting top qualifies for credits toward advanced mechanical engineering
degree.
8. Bugeyes easily cured through laser surgery.
7. Ride height allows close-up view of SUVs shedding tire treads.
6. Always a chance you'll be mistaken for Harrison Ford.
5. Two words - "babe magnet".
4. Neither Al Gore nor George W drove one while in college.
3. Scuttle shake mixes perfect martinis.
2. "Cats" still running on Spridget list.
1. Triumph made better sportscars ...... for me to poop on!
(okay, it's a Conan reference, but who cares?
Rick
From "Alexis Zarkades" <zdesign at mediaone.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 19:40:12 -0400
Subject: RE: First Healey Meet
The wife and I attended our first Healey meet on
Cape Cod, Healey people were great made us very
comfortable the whole week end.
A couple of things happened that I would like to
get some info on. This was the first time I've
had the car on the highway, it ran great,
however when I engaged the overdrive it seemed
to go in and out, after a while when I was doing
55 mph it seemed o.k.
The second thing is when I went to lock up
car up for the evening the lock tumbler came out
of the driver's side door. Do I have to take the
panel off of the inside to reinstall it?
Thanks
Nick Zarkades
New to Healeys
BJ8 1965
From "CATUDALJ" <CATUDALJ at email.msn.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 20:11:30 -0400
Subject: Re: First Healey Meet
Nick:
Yes you have to take the panel off. There is a small screw that is
behind a lock lever that screws into the key barell from the inside.
there is also a lock nut there to keep the bolt into the barell. if
the lock nut gets loose then every time you turn the key the inside
bolt turns and gets loose
Joe
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alexis Zarkades" <zdesign@mediaone.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2000 7:40 PM
Subject: RE: First Healey Meet
>
> The wife and I attended our first Healey meet on
> Cape Cod, Healey people were great made us very
> comfortable the whole week end.
>
> A couple of things happened that I would like to
> get some info on. This was the first time I've
> had the car on the highway, it ran great,
> however when I engaged the overdrive it seemed
> to go in and out, after a while when I was doing
> 55 mph it seemed o.k.
>
> The second thing is when I went to lock up
> car up for the evening the lock tumbler came out
> of the driver's side door. Do I have to take the
> panel off of the inside to reinstall it?
>
> Thanks
> Nick Zarkades
> New to Healeys
> BJ8 1965
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 20:30:46 EDT
Subject: Re: Purchasing rights to "Old" car names
In a message dated 09/19/2000 3:56:57 PM Central Daylight Time,
dyarber@dynasty.net writes:
<< The Old Red Devil wasn't there for show,>>
Most aren't, Don.
<< but I paid the registration fee anyway >>
As well you should. "Events" are for EVERYONE!!!
<<and parked down by all the really nice Healeys. >>
ALL Healeys are "...nice..." !! PERIOD !!!
Cheers..............
Ed
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 18:46:37 -0500
Subject: Re: Getting STP in your steering box
Hi Peter
You can use a very similar technique to fill the transmission\OD but
substituting 30 w oil for the STP.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
Peter Brauen wrote:
>
> Hi All,
> Try this for getting the STP in your steering box: Take your grease gun
> apart and place an empty tube in the gun. Draw back the rod 'till it locks.
> Now pour in the STP (or similar). Screw the pump end back on. Release the
> rod. Open the bleed screw to let out the excess air. Start pumping! Let the
> lube settle for a few minutes and work the wheel back and forth, then top
> off. An air powered gun makes it even faster;-)
> Peter (BMC Restorations)
From Charlie Baldwin <ewsinc at blazenet.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 20:50:32 -0400
Subject: Re: upcoming events
Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> When is the Hershey Show?
> When is the Carlisle Show?
>
> Thanks--Michael
Michael,
If you've never been to Hershey its something unlike any other car
show/flea market. People come from all over the world because it is
probably the best all around car thing there is.
Its best to come on Friday or even Thursday and stay through Saturday
which is the day of the car show. If you come don't forget your rain
gear; that means a full rain suit and some sort of water proof footwear
that extends well above the ankle. If it rains, and it almost always
does, you will be happy you did. Part of the entertainment is seeing
vehicles get stuck in the mud and the tractors pull them out.
There probably won't be many Healey parts there, though there are
usually cars for sale and some in the show.
Let me know if you're coming; we can meet somewhere.
Charlie
From "Tim Moran" <timoran at ticnet.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 19:37:15 -0500
Subject: Re: Getting STP in your steering box
> Take your grease gun
> apart and place an empty tube in the gun. Draw back the rod 'till it
locks.
> Now pour in the STP (or similar). Screw the pump end back on. Release the
> rod. Open the bleed screw to let out the excess air. Start pumping! Let
the
> lube settle for a few minutes and work the wheel back and forth, then top
> off. An air powered gun makes it even faster;-)
*********************************
No Offense, but THAT sounds like a LOT of work.
I'd heat it in a pan of warm, NOT BOILING, water on the stove. Wear a glove
and
pour it in through a funnel. When it hits the cold steering box, it'll
stiffen up.
Tim
From "Joe Chretien" <bighealey at capecod.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 21:26:58 -0400
Subject: RE: First Healey Meet
Nick, you didn't tell everyone about the "trophy ;-)" you won for your lock
cylinder mishap. :-) ;-) See ya again at the next meet!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Alexis Zarkades
Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2000 7:40 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: First Healey Meet
The wife and I attended our first Healey meet on
Cape Cod, Healey people were great made us very
comfortable the whole week end.
A couple of things happened that I would like to
get some info on. This was the first time I've
had the car on the highway, it ran great,
however when I engaged the overdrive it seemed
to go in and out, after a while when I was doing
55 mph it seemed o.k.
The second thing is when I went to lock up
car up for the evening the lock tumbler came out
of the driver's side door. Do I have to take the
panel off of the inside to reinstall it?
Thanks
Nick Zarkades
New to Healeys
BJ8 1965
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 22:19:36 -0400
Subject: Re: Getting STP in your steering box
There's actually a "suck-in and pump-out" tool made for thicker oils,
about the size of a grease gun, used for gearboxes, steering boxes, etc.
Now one of those with warm STP...
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim Moran <timoran@ticnet.com>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2000 8:37 PM
Subject: Re: Getting STP in your steering box
>
>
> > Take your grease gun
> > apart and place an empty tube in the gun. Draw back the rod 'till it
> locks.
> > Now pour in the STP (or similar). Screw the pump end back on. Release
the
> > rod. Open the bleed screw to let out the excess air. Start pumping! Let
> the
> > lube settle for a few minutes and work the wheel back and forth, then
top
> > off. An air powered gun makes it even faster;-)
> *********************************
> No Offense, but THAT sounds like a LOT of work.
>
> I'd heat it in a pan of warm, NOT BOILING, water on the stove. Wear a
glove
> and
> pour it in through a funnel. When it hits the cold steering box, it'll
> stiffen up.
>
> Tim
>
>
From Bob Haskell <bhaskell at iquest.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 22:23:01 -0500
Subject: Re: British car meets
Charles Rice wrote:
>
> I will be in central Indiana Saturday Sep 30. I notice two listings for
>
> British car meets that day, as follows:
> 1. Indy British Car Days (no location given)
> 2. Indy British Motor Days, Casmp Belzer, IN.
> Is there anyone in the Indianapolis area that can offer information on
> these events, locations in particular. I can't find "Camp Belzer" on
> any maps I have.
> Thanks! Charles Rice
Charles,
The events are one and the same. The event actually in two locations. On
Saturday, Sept 30th, things take place at the Brickyard Crossing Inn adjacent
to the Indianapolis Motor Speedway. The speedway is on the west side of Indy
at 16th Street and Georgetown Road. The inn is just east of the speedway on
16th Street. The events on Saturday include tech sessions, rallye/tour and
lap(s) around the F1 track. There's an awards banquet and a "night before" get
together after.
The car show is on Sunday, Oct 1st, at Camp Belzer. Camp Belzer is a boy scout
camp on the north east side of Indy. There's quite a bit of construction on
465 over there, so I'm not exactly sure how one can actually get there. If the
exit is open, you'd get off I-465 at 56th Street and head East. Then turn
North at Boy Scout Road. The camp is on Boy Scout Road.
Contact Don Haynam (317) 887-3867 - mgdr@quiknet.com for addition info.
Hope to see you there,
Bob Haskell
'60 AH BT-7 MkI
'64 Mini Cooper S RHD
'80 MGB LE
bhaskell@iquest.net
SOL Healey (URL http://www.team.net/www/healey) web apprentice
From Robert Dobrowski <rsdslp at juno.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 20:37:13 -0700
Subject: Re: "average"
I have to disagree. These people aren't the average driver out there.
They are the very poor driving minority. It is just that their inability
to drive in a sane and predictable manner leaves such a strong impression
on you that you forget about the majority of drivers out there that are
driving in a reasonable, predictable and safe manner. If the police would
just give up on the speed traps and seek out and pull over the truely bad
drivers, our roads would be significantly safer.
On Tue, 19 Sep 2000 11:58:59 -0400 "David"
<david_m@radiantsoundworks.com> writes:
>
> > Why is it
> > When you
> > Try to pass
> > The guy in front
> > Goes twice as fast?
> > --Burma-Shave--
> >
>
> Because...unfortunately he's an "average" human....an "average"
> driver.
> There are more of them than anything else. No thought goes into
> driving by
> "average" humans. No thought....just reactive human emotions. Not
> ideal....VERY annoying....but reality none-the-less. We are all
> guilty of
> such annoying foolishness at one time or another. The "thinkers"
> catch
> themselves more often than not. The mindless just do it....over and
> over and
> over....day after day....year after year.
> Blind....mindless..."driving"?
> That's life!
>
> Why do drivers do all of the stupid things that they do? I question
> it every
> single day....and the above is the only answer that I am ever able
> to come
> to. Sorry for the pessimism....you caught me at the right (?) time I
> guess!
>
> Dave
>
> BJ8
> TR4A
>
________________________________________________________________
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 00:20:48 -0400
Subject: Re: "average"
Hey Robert what's wrong with speed traps? Aren't they there to ensure that
everybody drives safely in accordance with road conditions? The truly
dangerous drivers are the ones who set their own speed limits. They're the
ones who take chances, make frequent lane changes, and endanger law abiding
drivers. If speed charges your battery take up racing. The youngest Healey
is some 32 years old. To me they're cruise mobiles at least on public roads.
Or as some people would have it, chick magnets. I know you're going to say I
can drive my car at any speed on any road and I'm perfectly in control. Not
so. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Dobrowski <rsdslp@juno.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, September 19, 2000 11:48 PM
Subject: Re: "average"
>
>I have to disagree. These people aren't the average driver out there.
>They are the very poor driving minority. It is just that their inability
>to drive in a sane and predictable manner leaves such a strong impression
>on you that you forget about the majority of drivers out there that are
>driving in a reasonable, predictable and safe manner. If the police would
>just give up on the speed traps and seek out and pull over the truely bad
>drivers, our roads would be significantly safer.
>
>On Tue, 19 Sep 2000 11:58:59 -0400 "David"
><david_m@radiantsoundworks.com> writes:
>>
>> > Why is it
>> > When you
>> > Try to pass
>> > The guy in front
>> > Goes twice as fast?
>> > --Burma-Shave--
>> >
>>
>> Because...unfortunately he's an "average" human....an "average"
>> driver.
>> There are more of them than anything else. No thought goes into
>> driving by
>> "average" humans. No thought....just reactive human emotions. Not
>> ideal....VERY annoying....but reality none-the-less. We are all
>> guilty of
>> such annoying foolishness at one time or another. The "thinkers"
>> catch
>> themselves more often than not. The mindless just do it....over and
>> over and
>> over....day after day....year after year.
>> Blind....mindless..."driving"?
>> That's life!
>>
>> Why do drivers do all of the stupid things that they do? I question
>> it every
>> single day....and the above is the only answer that I am ever able
>> to come
>> to. Sorry for the pessimism....you caught me at the right (?) time I
>> guess!
>>
>> Dave
>>
>> BJ8
>> TR4A
>>
>
>________________________________________________________________
>http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
>
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 08:20:12 +0100
Subject: Re: BN1/2 ORIG. BUMPER/CLUTCH PARTS
This subject is getting terribly confused. The subject is BN1/2 Clutch
parts but we are getting references to early 60s cars which had a
completely different clutch operating system. Is it time for a reset?
For what it is worth, my own opinion is that the original set up does
not cause any problems if correctly fitted, properly maintained and
lubricated and not damaged over bumps in the road. My present system was
rebuilt as original 48,000 miles back and is still in good shape.
All the best
>
><< The square rod was not a Kilmartin design. The change from the round 5/16
>rod
> to the square rod was by Healey back in the early 60's. >>
>
>Hi David
>
>Thanks for the information regarding the the square style rod being a
>replacement by the factory,
I do not believe this to be true for a BN1/2
> and in fact I thought the same thing might be the
>case for many years. The only difference I thought was that the upgraded
>short clutch rod was a 1/4" X 3/4" heavy piece of steel bar stock with an
>double bend in it to make the proper offset and two pins pressed into either
>end. If you have any other information on the exact style of this
>replacement rod I would like to know. Maybe the rod in my car, albeit very
>nicely made, was an attempt by the PO to fix the problem himself.
>
>Does anyone else out there have the type of short clutch rod that I have
>described?
>
>Cheers
>
>Curt
>Carlsbad, CA
>'55 BN1
>
--
John Harper
From "Lance Werner" <brshwrks at bellatlantic.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 07:02:48 -0400
Subject: Re: Austin Versus Healey
Is there a similar list for Jags
lance
54bn1
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Lupynec <mlupynec@globalserve.net>
To: Graham Healey <Graham_Healey@lse.com.au>; 'Michael Salter'
<magicare@home.com>; <CCruz@tribune.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 18, 2000 8:38 PM
Subject: Re: Austin Versus Healey
>
> Sir William Lyons - the guy behind Jags from start to finish.
>
> Mike L.
> 60A,67E,59Bug
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Graham Healey <Graham_Healey@lse.com.au>
> To: 'Michael Salter' <magicare@home.com>; <CCruz@tribune.com>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: September 18, 2000 6:26 PM
> Subject: RE: Austin Versus Healey
>
>
> >
> > I do not remember what happened to the man behind Austin, only
> that Leonard
> > Lord took over the running of the company in around 1939 and he
> was
> > instrumental in the joining of Austin & Healey. So its a bit
> like the MG's
> > there was no face behind the company in its later stages. This
> is what makes
> > Healey's so remarkable, that Donald Healey was the "Man" from
> start to
> > finish. There were very few British car companies that were like
> this.
> > Morgan, Lotus for sure, any more?
> >
> > Regards
> > Graham
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> > [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Michael Salter
> > Sent: 19-Sep-2000 5:08
> > To: CCruz@tribune.com
> > Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: Austin Versus Healey
> >
> >
> >
> > Hi Carlos,
> > Here is a little that I remember.
> > Austin was Herbert Austin who, much like William Morris, was one
> of the few
> > who
> > succeeded in the automobile manufacturing business in England
> early last
> > century.
> > Morris became Lord Nuffield. I don't know if Austin was ever
> knighted.
> > --
> > Regards,
> >
> > Mike Salter
> > http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> > >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> >
> >
> > CCruz@tribune.com wrote:
> >
> > > Good morning Listers,
> > >
> > > I'm in the process of considering the acquisition of another
> "toy". The
> > > Healey is getting lonely and since the nights are getting
> colder... well
> > you
> > > know. One of the cars being considered is a '50 Austin Panel
> Van. Doing
> > > some research over the weekend I began to think about
> something (ya, I
> > know
> > > - not necessarily a good thing). I thought I could benefit
> from a
> > history
> > > lesson and what better place to start then with all the
> historians on this
> > > list.
> > >
> > > It's obvious from list List, the AHCA, AHCUSA and all the
> Healey events
> > that
> > > Healey-owners hold Donald Healey in very high regards, the
> "father" of our
> > > cars. I have to admint this connection with a person is one
> of the many
> > > mystics that make owning one of Donald's cars a true pleasure.
> > >
> > > I'm curious if anyone knows why a similar affection is not
> held for the
> > > "Austin" half of the marquee? Is "Austin" a real individual
> or just
> > > corporation personified? Any history buffs out there willing
> to share
> > with
> > > the rest of us? Hopefully this makes for an interesting
> thread.
> > >
> > > Best regards,
> > > Carlos Cruz
> > > '60 AH 3KBN7
> > > Naperville, Illinois
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 08:15:00 EDT
Subject: Re: "average"
Sorry, but that is a bunch of horsesh*t. You obviously have not spent any time
driving in NJ. I have been taking notes on this very thing for some time, and
I have found that a vast majority of NJ drivers can't make a decision. I can
make it...I can't make it...I can make it...I'm pulling out...I can't make
it...BANG! Why do you think our insurance rates in NJ are the highest in the
country? Too many poor drivers. Besides, there is only so much an 8000LB
truck (SUV) can do to get out of the way. The reason for the SUV craze in NJ
is directly related to chances of survival...the biggest bully wins. Except
this schoolyard mentality ends up in death instead of a black eye...more often
than not because of stupidity and/or indecision.
Anyone that can't control a minor skid should not be driving anything but a
tricycle. If one can drift their vehicle through a corner I feel pretty safe
driving next to them. Also, how many drivers can you count in a day that feel
that turn signals are an option? Maybe we should remove them from automobiles
since at least 75% of drivers here, including police, refuse to use them. Or
they turn the signal on as they are turning...gee thanks, but it is supposed to
be an advance warning device not a 'yes you are in fact witnessing a left turn'.
The driving out here and every other place that I have driven (Midwest, West)
is lazy. People seem to just want to point and shoot, instead of actually
controlling.
Ok flame away.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
MX5
<<
I have to disagree. These people aren't the average driver out there.
They are the very poor driving minority. It is just that their inability
to drive in a sane and predictable manner leaves such a strong impression
on you that you forget about the majority of drivers out there that are
driving in a reasonable, predictable and safe manner. >>
From "JISah102" <ah102 at home.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 08:09:47 -0400
Subject: Re: BN1/2 ORIG. BUMPER/CLUTCH PARTS
My original BN1 clutch linkage is still strong after 100,000 + miles.
Faithful lubrication is important.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: John Harper <John@jharper.demon.co.uk>
To: <CNAArndt@aol.com>
Cc: <HLYDOC@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2000 3:20 AM
Subject: Re: BN1/2 ORIG. BUMPER/CLUTCH PARTS
>
>
> This subject is getting terribly confused. The subject is BN1/2 Clutch
> parts but we are getting references to early 60s cars which had a
> completely different clutch operating system. Is it time for a reset?
>
> For what it is worth, my own opinion is that the original set up does
> not cause any problems if correctly fitted, properly maintained and
> lubricated and not damaged over bumps in the road. My present system was
> rebuilt as original 48,000 miles back and is still in good shape.
>
>
> All the best
> >
> ><< The square rod was not a Kilmartin design. The change from the round
5/16
> >rod
> > to the square rod was by Healey back in the early 60's. >>
> >
> >Hi David
> >
> >Thanks for the information regarding the the square style rod being a
> >replacement by the factory,
>
> I do not believe this to be true for a BN1/2
>
> > and in fact I thought the same thing might be the
> >case for many years. The only difference I thought was that the upgraded
> >short clutch rod was a 1/4" X 3/4" heavy piece of steel bar stock with an
> >double bend in it to make the proper offset and two pins pressed into
either
> >end. If you have any other information on the exact style of this
> >replacement rod I would like to know. Maybe the rod in my car, albeit
very
> >nicely made, was an attempt by the PO to fix the problem himself.
> >
> >Does anyone else out there have the type of short clutch rod that I have
> >described?
> >
> >Cheers
> >
> >Curt
> >Carlsbad, CA
> >'55 BN1
> >
>
> --
> John Harper
From "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec at globalserve.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 09:42:41 -0400
Subject: Re: "average"
Half the time when I signal, the dolt in the next lane immediately
speeds up to close the gap I'm moving into. And these dolts are
usually from the "drive by the rule - don't speed crowd".
Mike L.
60A,67E,59Bug
----- Original Message -----
From: <Csooch1@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: September 20, 2000 8:15 AM
Subject: Re: "average"
>
> Sorry, but that is a bunch of horsesh*t. You obviously have not
spent any time driving in NJ. I have been taking notes on this
very thing for some time, and I have found that a vast majority of
NJ drivers can't make a decision. I can make it...I can't make
it...I can make it...I'm pulling out...I can't make it...BANG!
Why do you think our insurance rates in NJ are the highest in the
country? Too many poor drivers. Besides, there is only so much
an 8000LB truck (SUV) can do to get out of the way. The reason
for the SUV craze in NJ is directly related to chances of
survival...the biggest bully wins. Except this schoolyard
mentality ends up in death instead of a black eye...more often
than not because of stupidity and/or indecision.
>
> Anyone that can't control a minor skid should not be driving
anything but a tricycle. If one can drift their vehicle through a
corner I feel pretty safe driving next to them. Also, how many
drivers can you count in a day that feel that turn signals are an
option? Maybe we should remove them from automobiles since at
least 75% of drivers here, including police, refuse to use them.
Or they turn the signal on as they are turning...gee thanks, but
it is supposed to be an advance warning device not a 'yes you are
in fact witnessing a left turn'.
>
> The driving out here and every other place that I have driven
(Midwest, West) is lazy. People seem to just want to point and
shoot, instead of actually controlling.
>
> Ok flame away.
> Cheers,
> Chris
> BJ8
> XJ6
> MX5
> <<
> I have to disagree. These people aren't the average driver out
there.
> They are the very poor driving minority. It is just that their
inability
> to drive in a sane and predictable manner leaves such a strong
impression
> on you that you forget about the majority of drivers out there
that are
> driving in a reasonable, predictable and safe manner. >>
>
>
>
From "John J. Black" <helejohn at neteze.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 07:33:03 -0700
Subject: Waterloo Drivetrain Systems/British European Motors
Hi Guys
As many of you know Waterloo Drivetrain of Austin TX was recently sold to a
company in northern California. I am leased to tell you
that the move has now been made, both the business and I are now relocated.
The old website has also been updated and changed a good bit so if you have
not visited in a while it is worth a look, but please be aware that the
server has now also changed. Any feedback will be appreciated.
I have found (apart from one earthquake!) an abundance of LBC'c in the
Sonoma valley yet NO British car clubs?? Any clubs that are around seem to
be located in, or very near SF, no surprise really but I think that we guys
should at least have a go at starting a club for the enthusiasts in the wine
country!
We are located in Rohnert Park near Santa Rosa and this would seem to be a
good general location for such a club. We are so close to the race tracks,
the coast and some well established events that it could be a very social
club with a lot of interesting things to do, plus of course meeting like
minded people you get the extra pair of hands/eye/ears/reference material
that you may need for your project car or simply to keep it on the road.
YOU KNOW IT MAKES SENSE! so why not do it.
Regards
John J Black
Waterloo Drivetrain Systems
http://www.waterloo-dtr.com
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 09:30:13 -0400
Subject: Re: "average"
If you have to drift your vehicle through a corner you're going too fast.
Slow down. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
-----Original Message-----
From: Csooch1@aol.com <Csooch1@aol.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, September 20, 2000 8:19 AM
Subject: Re: "average"
>
>Sorry, but that is a bunch of horsesh*t. You obviously have not spent any
time driving in NJ. I have been taking notes on this very thing for some
time, and I have found that a vast majority of NJ drivers can't make a
decision. I can make it...I can't make it...I can make it...I'm pulling
out...I can't make it...BANG! Why do you think our insurance rates in NJ
are the highest in the country? Too many poor drivers. Besides, there is
only so much an 8000LB truck (SUV) can do to get out of the way. The reason
for the SUV craze in NJ is directly related to chances of survival...the
biggest bully wins. Except this schoolyard mentality ends up in death
instead of a black eye...more often than not because of stupidity and/or
indecision.
>
>Anyone that can't control a minor skid should not be driving anything but a
tricycle. If one can drift their vehicle through a corner I feel pretty
safe driving next to them. Also, how many drivers can you count in a day
that feel that turn signals are an option? Maybe we should remove them from
automobiles since at least 75% of drivers here, including police, refuse to
use them. Or they turn the signal on as they are turning...gee thanks, but
it is supposed to be an advance warning device not a 'yes you are in fact
witnessing a left turn'.
>
>The driving out here and every other place that I have driven (Midwest,
West) is lazy. People seem to just want to point and shoot, instead of
actually controlling.
>
>Ok flame away.
>Cheers,
>Chris
>BJ8
>XJ6
>MX5
><<
>I have to disagree. These people aren't the average driver out there.
>They are the very poor driving minority. It is just that their inability
>to drive in a sane and predictable manner leaves such a strong impression
>on you that you forget about the majority of drivers out there that are
>driving in a reasonable, predictable and safe manner. >>
>
>
>
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 09:31:42 -0400
Subject: Re: "average"
It's called territoriality. Our nature .RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Lupynec <mlupynec@globalserve.net>
To: Csooch1@aol.com <Csooch1@aol.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, September 20, 2000 10:01 AM
Subject: Re: "average"
>
>Half the time when I signal, the dolt in the next lane immediately
>speeds up to close the gap I'm moving into. And these dolts are
>usually from the "drive by the rule - don't speed crowd".
>
>Mike L.
>60A,67E,59Bug
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <Csooch1@aol.com>
>To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: September 20, 2000 8:15 AM
>Subject: Re: "average"
>
>
>>
>> Sorry, but that is a bunch of horsesh*t. You obviously have not
>spent any time driving in NJ. I have been taking notes on this
>very thing for some time, and I have found that a vast majority of
>NJ drivers can't make a decision. I can make it...I can't make
>it...I can make it...I'm pulling out...I can't make it...BANG!
>Why do you think our insurance rates in NJ are the highest in the
>country? Too many poor drivers. Besides, there is only so much
>an 8000LB truck (SUV) can do to get out of the way. The reason
>for the SUV craze in NJ is directly related to chances of
>survival...the biggest bully wins. Except this schoolyard
>mentality ends up in death instead of a black eye...more often
>than not because of stupidity and/or indecision.
>>
>> Anyone that can't control a minor skid should not be driving
>anything but a tricycle. If one can drift their vehicle through a
>corner I feel pretty safe driving next to them. Also, how many
>drivers can you count in a day that feel that turn signals are an
>option? Maybe we should remove them from automobiles since at
>least 75% of drivers here, including police, refuse to use them.
>Or they turn the signal on as they are turning...gee thanks, but
>it is supposed to be an advance warning device not a 'yes you are
>in fact witnessing a left turn'.
>>
>> The driving out here and every other place that I have driven
>(Midwest, West) is lazy. People seem to just want to point and
>shoot, instead of actually controlling.
>>
>> Ok flame away.
>> Cheers,
>> Chris
>> BJ8
>> XJ6
>> MX5
>> <<
>> I have to disagree. These people aren't the average driver out
>there.
>> They are the very poor driving minority. It is just that their
>inability
>> to drive in a sane and predictable manner leaves such a strong
>impression
>> on you that you forget about the majority of drivers out there
>that are
>> driving in a reasonable, predictable and safe manner. >>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
From Norman Cay <normcay at earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 08:15:48 -0700
Subject: Re: Waterloo Drivetrain Systems/British European Motors
John.
Please let us know your address in Rohnert Park.
I have offices in Ukiah and Saratoga (Ca) and I go past you weekly. I would like
to stop in some time
norm cay BN1, BN2, MkII Jag
John J. Black wrote:
> Hi Guys
> As many of you know Waterloo Drivetrain of Austin TX was recently sold to a
> company in northern California. I am leased to tell you
> that the move has now been made, both the business and I are now relocated.
> The old website has also been updated and changed a good bit so if you have
> not visited in a while it is worth a look, but please be aware that the
> server has now also changed. Any feedback will be appreciated.
>
> I have found (apart from one earthquake!) an abundance of LBC'c in the
> Sonoma valley yet ............
From BANJOJOHN at aol.com
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 11:39:58 EDT
Subject: Looking for Jolly Roger
Last spring I talked to a guy, I think from Texas, named Roger Miller. I've
lost his number. If he is on the list, or if someone on the list knows him,
please respond off the list. I think his e-mail was Jollyroger@ ? (don't
know the rest) but I'm not sure of that either.
TIA
John O'Brien
'61 bugeye
From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 12:06:03 EDT
Subject: Re: "average"
Ray,
Once again the safety buff has missed the point. I said "If one can drift
their vehicle through a corner I feel pretty safe driving next to them". That
means that if the person driving next to me on the highway is CAPABLE of
driving his/her vehicle to the limit, then I feel safer than if they have never
controlled a skid before. Anyone can drive fast in a straight line, but it
takes skill to push to the edge without going over. More skill is what is
needed along with a knowledge of what the vehicle can and can't do. Would you
agree that it would be better to know how to drive out of a skid, than to never
have tried it...until sliding towards someone in panic?
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8...never driven yet
XJ6...doesn't like to drift, but can do it
MX5...drifts very nicely
>>If you have to drift your vehicle through a corner you're going too fast.
Slow down. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.<<
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 12:06:07 EDT
Subject: Re: "average"
In a message dated 9/20/00 9:51:34 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
mlupynec@globalserve.net writes:
<< Half the time when I signal, the dolt in the next lane immediately
speeds up to close the gap I'm moving into. And these dolts are
usually from the "drive by the rule - don't speed crowd".
>>
They need to be shot out of hand.... Down here in Southern Maryland the rule
seems to be to drive just slightly under the speed limit in the left land,
adjusting your speed to another car in the right lane so as to block any
chances of passing.
Michael
From JRLNJ at aol.com
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 12:14:15 EDT
Subject: Windows Rattling
Has anyone on the list used a non-stock inner window seal to stop the glass
from rattling? I tried a new Moss seal, and it wasn't thick enough to do the
job on my car.
Any suggestions?
Ray
BJ8
From CNAArndt at aol.com
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 12:45:43 EDT
Subject: Re: BN1/2 ORIG. BUMPER/CLUTCH PARTS
In a message dated 09/20/2000 4:38:32 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
John@jharper.demon.co.uk writes:
<< This subject is getting terribly confused. The subject is BN1/2 Clutch
parts but we are getting references to early 60s cars which had a
completely different clutch operating system. Is it time for a reset?>>
John, with all due respect what was referred to was the possibility that
due to the high failure rate of the original short clutch rod that BMC may
have redesigned its replacement in the early sixties using 1/2" square bar
stock versus the original 5/16" steel rod. Whether this design is BMC's
or Kilmartins is not the point, what I feel is important is having a
replacement part made that looks exactly like the original but manufactured
with better quality materials that will last. Like Rich Chrysler, I plan to
drive
the heck out of my concours car when it's finally finished.
<<For what it is worth, my own opinion is that the original set up does
not cause any problems if correctly fitted, properly maintained and
lubricated and not damaged over bumps in the road. My present system was
rebuilt as original 48,000 miles back and is still in good shape. >>
Once again John, a lot of ifs and I don't disagree with you statement.
Unfortunately very many of the typical 70 to 80Kmile original cars do not
have their original clutch rod and if the do they have either been repaired
or are worn to a point that repair or replacement is required. I have seen
original clutch rods from no less than four low mile (< 50K) and in all but
one, a BN2 with 27K original miles, these pieces needed to be repaired
or replaced.
I have also corresponded with one owner who many years ago used his
car as a daily driver (20K per year) who stated that there was a very high
failure rate and that the dealers, at least, were very well aware of it since
they had to replace them!
>>My original BN1 clutch linkage is still strong after 100,000 + miles.
Faithful lubrication is important.<<
This statement from Jim at ah102@home.com appears to be the exception
rather than the rule. We should all have maintained our cars this well and
I'm certain after too many years and too many thousands of dollars restoring
my car I will.
Enough for now
Curt
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 13:25:20 -0400
Subject: Re: Windows Rattling
Hi Ray,
You may want to take a look at the 3 nylon guides that support the glass in the
window channel.
I have always found that if they and the channel are in good condition there is
very little window rattle.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
JRLNJ@aol.com wrote:
> Has anyone on the list used a non-stock inner window seal to stop the glass
> from rattling? I tried a new Moss seal, and it wasn't thick enough to do the
> job on my car.
> Any suggestions?
> Ray
> BJ8
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 14:05:04 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Government Restraints
A couple of questions:
1) Do you think ALL of the participants in the events/races I mentioned would
Voluntarily adhere to these safety regulations - which are crafted to protect
the drivers, the Other drivers, the spectators, the track personnel,marshals,
corner workers, etc - or do you think there would be some who would want to
participate bareheaded, w/o seat belts, rollbars, etc., and in vehicles that
could not pass the rigorous inspection procedures --- just for Fun?
2)Do you think the cars and people in them - on the public highways - are
entitled to the same protections as the other cars, drivers and myriad of folks
mentioned in 1)?
Assuming you answered 1) NO and 2) Yes, how would you propose to achieve such a
state of roadworthiness and safety for All of US , Other Than by Governmental
Regulation.
All of the safety rules I originally listed are designed to codify Common
Sense, because some of us have None - and thus place other drivers and their
passengers at great risk.
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
> At the risk of "getting involved" I want to put in my two cents worth. I am
> not taking sides in this issue, just wanted to make a point.
>
> dickb wrote: > What do you suppose is the reason for all you mention plus
> cut-off switches, safety nets,fuel cells, wired-up suspensions, roll-cages,
> full crush bodywork, etc mandated by NASCAR, USAC, IMSA, FIA, CART, etc.,
> etc., to say nothing of any properly run gymkana at a local event- or are
> they also part of the Socialist Republic.<
>
> These sanctions by the above mention organizations are all self imposed
> sanctions. They are mandated by the organizations mentioned for the well
> being of the participants. They are not government imposed, therefore the
> government does not add a huge staff of people (supported by taxpayers) to
> "control" these sanctions.
>
> That is the difference.
>
> Don
> BN7
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 11:30:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: "average"
On Wed, 20 Sep 2000 12:06:07 EDT, Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
<< Down here in Southern Maryland the rule seems to be to drive just
slightly under the speed limit in the left lane, adjusting your speed to
another car in the right lane so as to block any chances of passing. >>
That's not unique to southern Maryland! When I was in flight school at Fort
Rucker, Alabama 1975-76, driving my new 1974 Alfa Romeo Spider 2000 around
the state, I encountered the same thing. Recall that this was just a couple
of years after we coined the phrase "gas lines" and imposed the %@$&* 55 MPH
speed limit. Anyway it was really remarkable the way those
Alabamans/Alabamites/Alabamonians used to get side by side and putt along at
annoying slow speeds. I figure that they were just trying to provoke the
driver of that thar funny liddle furn car, and I used to call it the
"Alabama Mobile Road Block." They were so good at it that they must have
practiced when I wasn't around. It was probably part of the driving test.
;-)
Reid
_______________________________________________________
Say Bye to Slow Internet!
http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html
From Peter Brauen <pbrauen at telepak.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 14:16:39 -0500
Subject: Re: Getting STP in your steering box
Hi Tim,
Since I have a gun dedicated to that task it is no trouble at all.
Besides, my wife gets really PISSED when she catches me with oily stuff in
the pots and pans :-)
Peter (BMC Restorations)
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Moran <timoran@ticnet.com>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, September 19, 2000 8:58 PM
Subject: Re: Getting STP in your steering box
> Take your grease gun
> apart and place an empty tube in the gun. Draw back the rod 'till it
locks.
> Now pour in the STP (or similar). Screw the pump end back on. Release
the
> rod. Open the bleed screw to let out the excess air. Start pumping!
Let
the
> lube settle for a few minutes and work the wheel back and forth, then
top
> off. An air powered gun makes it even faster;-)
*********************************
No Offense, but THAT sounds like a LOT of work.
I'd heat it in a pan of warm, NOT BOILING, water on the stove. Wear a
glove
and
pour it in through a funnel. When it hits the cold steering box, it'll
stiffen up.
Tim
From BGAHC at aol.com
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 15:36:45 EDT
Subject: Re: Purchasing rights to "Old" car names
dyarber@dynasty.net writes:
<< BTW I thought the SirBrit meet in Newburgh, IN was very successful, a lot
of fun for me. The Old Red Devil wasn't there for show, but I paid the
registration fee anyway and parked down by all the really nice Healeys.
Don >>
It was a nice show. We all enjoyed meeting you and Shirley and don't ever
apologize for your car. First, it was great that you made the show. Condition
of car isn't important, the fact that you are doing something with it and
enjoying yourself is. It drove there just as well as the high dollar paint
job ones did.
Second, most of us started with much less than you have and admire your
willingness to learn new things about how to maintain and restore your car.
The journey of restoration is just as much fun as the end product. Besides in
a whole string of cookie cutter BJ8's you had a two seat tri-carb, always an
unusual car.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Visit my Healey Adventure site at www.jamesfwerner.com
From cstinehelfer at bajamarine.com
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 15:57:02 -0400
Subject: stp and such
I have nuked these types of products with excellent results (stp, 90 weight
gear oil, ect...) Just be sure to remove the foil seal first!!!
(and don't leave it in too long - it explodes if the lid is on tight; bad
for kitchen appliances and spousal relations...)
Chris
Hi Tim,
Since I have a gun dedicated to that task it is no trouble at all.
Besides, my wife gets really PISSED when she catches me with oily stuff in
the pots and pans :-)
Peter (BMC Restorations)
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Moran <timoran@ticnet.com>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, September 19, 2000 8:58 PM
Subject: Re: Getting STP in your steering box
> Take your grease gun
> apart and place an empty tube in the gun. Draw back the rod 'till it
locks.
> Now pour in the STP (or similar). Screw the pump end back on. Release
the
> rod. Open the bleed screw to let out the excess air. Start pumping!
Let
the
> lube
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 14:16:42 -0500
Subject: Re: Purchasing rights to "Old" car names
Jim
Well said!
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
(semi cookie cutter BJ8 hopefully on the road this afternoon)
BGAHC@aol.com wrote:
>
> dyarber@dynasty.net writes:
>
> << BTW I thought the SirBrit meet in Newburgh, IN was very successful, a lot
> of fun for me. The Old Red Devil wasn't there for show, but I paid the
> registration fee anyway and parked down by all the really nice Healeys.
>
> Don >>
>
> It was a nice show. We all enjoyed meeting you and Shirley and don't ever
> apologize for your car. First, it was great that you made the show. Condition
> of car isn't important, the fact that you are doing something with it and
> enjoying yourself is. It drove there just as well as the high dollar paint
> job ones did.
>
> Second, most of us started with much less than you have and admire your
> willingness to learn new things about how to maintain and restore your car.
> The journey of restoration is just as much fun as the end product. Besides in
> a whole string of cookie cutter BJ8's you had a two seat tri-carb, always an
> unusual car.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Werner
> Louisville, KY
> Visit my Healey Adventure site at www.jamesfwerner.com
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 19:32:07 -0400
Subject: BJ8 fuel tank sending unit
Hello, Healeyphiles --
Just had a call from someone who is looking for a metal float at the end of
the arm of the fuel tank sending unit in his BJ8. His original has
apparently fallen into the tank, and he prefers to find another one rather
than trying to fish his out of the tank. Hey, I'm just the messenger!
If anyone can help --- float or used sending unit, please contact me off
list and I'll put you in touch.
Thanks,
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 19:34:59 -0400
Subject: Re: Windows Rattling
I have found that to be the case on my car as well. After replacing all
the guides, the only window rattle I get now is when I slam the door.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC USA
>Hi Ray,
>
>You may want to take a look at the 3 nylon guides that support the glass in
the
>window channel.
>I have always found that if they and the channel are in good condition
there is
>very little window rattle.
>--
>Regards,
>
>Mike Salter
>http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
>JRLNJ@aol.com wrote:
>
>> Has anyone on the list used a non-stock inner window seal to stop the
glass
>> from rattling? I tried a new Moss seal, and it wasn't thick enough to do
the
>> job on my car.
>> Any suggestions?
>> Ray
>> BJ8
>
>
>
>
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 16:40:35 -0700
Subject: Tire related: It was just a matter of time
Check this out.
Formula One teams put on
notice about danger of
underinflated tires
September 20, 2000
BY HERB GOULD STAFF REPORTER
Formula One tire supplier Bridgestone, which has been feeling
the heat of
tire failures on Ford Explorers using its Firestone tires, is
trying to avoid
any further disasters, public-relations and otherwise, when
Formula One
runs its U.S. Grand Prix at Indianapolis Motor Speedway on Sunday.
The tiremaker has warned F-1 teams about running their tires
below the
recommended pressure at Indy.
"If they want to reduce the pressure, then they have to be
very careful,"
Bridgestone technical manager Yoshihiko Ichikawa said. "We will
recommend a pressure, but we are not the people who make final
decisions about pressures. If they [run low pressures], that
is their
responsibility."
Low tire pressure has been linked to many of the
Explorer-Firestone
problems.
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 19:45:39 -0400
Subject: Re: pinging under load
Due to some discussion on the list not too long ago, I advanced my timing
just a hair to see if it would have any effect on the running temp of the
engine. I did see some very slight improvement (which could also be
attributed to the cooler ambient temps we've been having), but on the other
hand I also have pinging now under load where I didn't have any before. I'm
going to retard the timing to the original position, but just haven't yet
had the time to do so. The only time it pings is when I let the rpms drop
too low for the gear selected, and I'm using premium gas.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: Donald L. Yarber <dyarber@dynasty.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, September 13, 2000 1:19 PM
Subject: pinging under load
>
>This question goes to the list because I'm getting conflicting info from
>people (not Healey mechanics) but other mechanics.
>
>I have got the Old Red Devil running pretty good. (Except now my overdrive
>doesn't work again). It is still pinging, however, under load. Not when I
>take off in low, nor when I shift to second, but usually when I shift to
>third or fourth it pings a little before taking thrust.
>
>I've asked some local back alley mechanics and a couple of guys who call
>themselves mechanics, but none are familiar with Austin Healeys.
>
>Some say it's just the low octane gas. Some say to retard the timing more,
>some say it's too far retarded. I'm beginning to think I'm the one who is
>retarded.
>
>What say you, list?????
>
>Don
>BN7
>
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 20:03:40 -0400
Subject: Re: "average"
I have to say that of the "Pennsylvania to South Carolina" string of states
that I usually drive in, Maryland seems to be the worst for drivers cruising
leisurely in what used to be considered the "passing" lane; but the disease
is spreading.
Reid -- while I was living there (at the same time as you were), I learned
that the word is "Alabamian". And the rolling roadblock WAS part of the
driving test!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Native and current Tar Heel
Ex-Alabamian (God's country)
-----Original Message-----
From: Reid Trummel <AHCUSA@excite.com>
To: Awgertoo@aol.com <Awgertoo@aol.com>; mlupynec@globalserve.net
<mlupynec@globalserve.net>; Csooch1@aol.com <Csooch1@aol.com>;
healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, September 20, 2000 2:47 PM
Subject: Re: "average"
>
>On Wed, 20 Sep 2000 12:06:07 EDT, Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
>
><< Down here in Southern Maryland the rule seems to be to drive just
>slightly under the speed limit in the left lane, adjusting your speed to
>another car in the right lane so as to block any chances of passing. >>
>
>That's not unique to southern Maryland! When I was in flight school at
Fort
>Rucker, Alabama 1975-76, driving my new 1974 Alfa Romeo Spider 2000 around
>the state, I encountered the same thing. Recall that this was just a
couple
>of years after we coined the phrase "gas lines" and imposed the %@$&* 55
MPH
>speed limit. Anyway it was really remarkable the way those
>Alabamans/Alabamites/Alabamonians used to get side by side and putt along
at
>annoying slow speeds. I figure that they were just trying to provoke the
>driver of that thar funny liddle furn car, and I used to call it the
>"Alabama Mobile Road Block." They were so good at it that they must have
>practiced when I wasn't around. It was probably part of the driving test.
>;-)
>
>Reid
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________________
>Say Bye to Slow Internet!
>http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html
>
>
From "Michael Lempert" <mdlempert at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 20:10:18 -0400
Subject: Fw: Status of 3.5 Gear Sets
It appears that this message didn't make it to the list when I first sent it
yesterday. My apologies if you get it more than once.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------
Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2000 4:54 PM
Subject: Status of 3.5 Gear Sets
> Hi gang. Last week marked an important milestone, passing the 90 order
> mark
> for the 3.5 gears. With a few more on the fence, I think we'll have the
> magic 100
> orders within a week or two. Congratulations, at first I didn't think we
> could get the numbers.
>
> I've asked that the contract be prepared to go to production. Of course I
> won't totally commit until I've received enough deposits from the
> participants to minimize the financial risk to myself. I'm sure you
> understand. This may be the hard part; I hope we don't have too many
> drop-outs.
>
> I was told today that we might expect a four month process timeframe from
> the factory. I imagine this could be sooner or later depending on when
they
> fit us into their production schedule. It will give me time to collect
> deposits and receive additional orders.
>
> If you're already a participant, you'll receive two copies of this email
> (as a lister and as a participant) and another email with some suggestions
> on how
> we can do the financial transfers. If you are a participant and don't
> receive the other email, please let me know so I can correct my project
> alias address list. If you are not yet a participant but would like to
> join in, let me know. While the target number we need is 100, it is a
> minimum - we
> can produce as many as we need above 100.
>
> I received an email from a gent in South Carolina who asked some good
> questions. Not being very familiar with the technical aspects of gear
> manufacture, I appreciated someone asking the type of questions that he
> did. This resulted in some additional technical information that I can
now
> share. While I still don't fully appreciate the terms used in the
> industry, I believe the answers I received indicate a quality process.
> Those questions and answers are as follows:
>
> Q: What material will be used ?
> A: 86/20 steel
>
> Q: What heat treating or case hardening technique will be used ?
> A: Same heat process as used on their OEM gears (they considered their
> process details to be proprietary)
>
> Q: What is the type of gearing that will be cut ?
> A: Hypoid as original, using five cut Gleason Machine.
>
> Q: Are they run in or polished ?
> A: They are run in. A polishing compound is used during the lapping
> process for a match mated gear set.
>
> Q: Are they matched mated for set up ?
> A: They will be specific gear aligned, not hunting pattern.
>
> I hope this helps, but please don't ask me to explain what it all means.
>
> Regards,
> Mike Lempert
>
> Following is a list of current participants.
>
> 2 Mike Lempert
> 1 Jim Smith
> 2 Robert Barback
> 1 Dr. Carl Rubino
> 2 John Vrugtman
> 1 Jack Jakobsen
> 2 Ray Juncal
> 2 Bob McElwee
> 1 John Heffron
> 1 Roland Wilhelmy
> 2 Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
> 1 Mark Fawcett
> 1 Fred Scheuble
> 1 Colin O'Brien
> 2 Skip Saunders
> 1 John Loftus
> 1 Reid Trummel
> 1 Marshall Dixon
> 1 Alfred Haymond
> 1 Jim Cox
> 1 Bill Wycoff
> 1 Bob Spidell
> 11 Bob Yule
> 1 Pete Pollock
> 1 Dave Bowers
> 1 Steve Byers
> 2 Ed-JustBrits
> 1 Bob Dobrowski
> 1 Richard J. Hockert
> 1 Greg Poorten
> 1 Bruce Starke
> 1 Al Toepfer
> 2 Joe Smathers
> 2 Ed Santoro
> 1 Jerry Slater
> 1 Ed Driver
> 1 Bob Judd
> 1 Randy Hicks
> 1 Bob Bridger
> 1 Mike Blair
> 1 Jerry Wall
> 1 Don Koos
> 1 Tom Taff
> 1 Stuart Shepherd
> 1 Dave Ritchey
> 1 Bret Blades
> 1 Ed Resh
> 1 Chris Kellner
> 1 Dick Solomon
> 1 Don Bundrant
> 1 Terry Blubaugh
> 1 Gary Shunk
> 2 Charlie Botts
> 1 Ed Battiston
> 1 Rick Snover
> 1 Michael Oritt
> 1 Mike O'Connell
> 1 David Williams
> 1 George Covell
> 1 John Cowley
> 1 Tom Carnahan
> 2 Sid Shadle
> 1 John Carter
> 1 Peter Roses
> 1 Bill Kelly
> 1 Ron Rowland
> 1 Dave Ehret
> 1 Pete Sandy
> 1 John Tiffany
> 1 Chris Gibson
>
>
>
>
>
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 20:34:12 EDT
Subject: Re: Windows Rattling
In a message dated 09/20/2000 12:24:12 PM Central Daylight Time,
magicare@home.com writes:
<< You may want to take a look at the 3 nylon guides that support the glass
in the
window channel. >>
Mike got to it first, but YEP!!
Cheers...........
Ed
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 21:21:00 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Logic and Left-leaning loonies
Michael
I congratulate you for finding some sort of argument in Brother Mairs post. I
sure couldn't.
The best I could come up with is : "We all should be allowed to drive as if
ourselves and our vehicles were the only ones on the road. Therefore any
attempt to regulate for the benefit of the rest of Mankind is an impinging on
"Individual Freedom", and is therefore unacceptable."
In other words, an inept restatement of "I'm selfish and I like myself that
way, so won't everyone stop bothering me, Wha, wha, wha"
On reflection BedWetter is a good one-word tag at that.
Dick
---- you wrote:
> In a message dated 9/20/00 11:29:44 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> lmairs@ix.netcom.com writes:
>
> << I don't know if it is the legal training that debilitates Michael and
> Brill's ability to follow logical arguments (and Brill once called me a
> troglodyte!) . Surgeons have the same problem. I think it may be something
> in their personality/training that gives them a God-like power that they
> know best, and that the common man is incapable of making free will
> decisions - or certainly free will decisions that are congruent with their
> (Brill/Oritt) beliefs. My younger brother has the very same problem. It
> allows them to shunt aside well-formed, logical arguments with a dismissive
> "Nanny nanny poo poo". Or as my wife once said, "Only an economist would
> say that. You people don't have hearts!". The problem really is that an
> economist is trained to find the cloud amongst the silver lining. Policies
> that sound wonderful at first blush to the untrained mind, are virtually
> always accompanied by unintended consequences. Mike and Brill reject this
> out of hand. >>
>
> Yeah, well at least I am not a bedwetter!
>
> Your friend--Michael
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 21:48:46 -0400
Subject: Re: "average"
Here is one of my pet peeves. Turn signals.
During my driver's training courses I seem to recall that the turn signal
was to communicate your intention to make a turn or change lanes, but you
still had to yield the right of way. Today it seems that the turn signal
gives you the right of way to do these things no matter what. That is, if
she has her signal on she has the right of way to pull in front of you.
Right? Has this all changed in the past 40 years?
Keith Pennell
----- Original Message -----
From: <Csooch1@aol.com>
Also, how many drivers can you count in a day that feel that turn signals
are an option?
From NPaul72464 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 21:56:44 EDT
Subject: Re: Getting STP in your steering box
I have a trick for getting the Penrite steering box oil in. I heat up the
oil in boiling water and pour it into a pump type oil can and pump it in.
Goes pretty easily. Still takes awhile to totally fill.
Ned Paulsen
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 22:21:15 EDT
Subject: Re: "average"
In a message dated 09/20/2000 8:52:40 PM Central Daylight Time,
pennell@whro.net writes:
<< Has this all changed in the past 40 years >>
Well, "...He*l, yes, Keith..." !!! Where have you
been!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!?????????
Enquiring minds NEED to know!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?
ROTFLMAO, I am
Just Me
From Fred Crowley <oldwolf at airmail.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 22:07:35 -0500
Subject: Big Healey Cams
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--------------5755A0F24C7674F3809AB0E9
Does anyone have a used cam for a 2912 cc engine that they'd be willing
to sell. It must be regrindable and the bearing surfaces should be
within spec. You can reply off the list.
Thanks Fred
--------------5755A0F24C7674F3809AB0E9
name="oldwolf.vcf"
Content-Description: Card for Fred Crowley
Content-Disposition: attachment;
filename="oldwolf.vcf"
begin:vcard
n:Crowley;Fred
x-mozilla-html:FALSE
org:Corinthian Vintage Auto Racing
adr:;;;;;;
version:2.1
email;internet:oldwolf@airmail.net
title:Team Healey Texas
fn:Fred Crowley
end:vcard
--------------5755A0F24C7674F3809AB0E9--
From type79 at ix.netcom.com
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 00:06:27 -0700
Subject: Re: Tire related: It was just a matter of time
I don't know the source of the quoted piece but this link is a more accurate and
objective report on the special tires being supplied for the F1 race at
Indianapolis.
http://www.formula1.com/news/headlines00/usa/s3259.html
As anyone familiar with the upcoming F1 race already knows, the teams will be
exposed to new issues running on a banked circuit, albeit only partially banked,
for the first time in the modern era Grand Prix racing.
This weekend will be a historic event and an important race for many different
reasons. None of the drivers have ever driven this circuit, none of the teams
have
tested there, the banking as already mentioned, and of course, the close battle
between the two 2-time champions, one of which may become the first 3-time
consecutive champion since Fangio in the 50's.
Incredible.
2:00pm Sunday 9-24-2000
jay fishbein
wallingford, ct
Bill Katz wrote:
> Check this out.
>
> Formula One teams put on
> notice about danger of
> underinflated tires
>
> September 20, 2000
>
> BY HERB GOULD STAFF REPORTER
>
> Formula One tire supplier Bridgestone, which has been feeling
> the heat of
> tire failures on Ford Explorers using its Firestone tires,
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 22:36:15 -0700
Subject: Re: Tire related: It was just a matter of time
I can't wait for the race. I saw a few years of F1 in Long Beach back in
the early 80's when I lived in LA. CART doesn't even come close, and don't
get me started on the IRL. I agree, it should be quite interesting for the
drivers. I think Speedvision will be covering practice on Friday and Saturday.
Anyone know if they offer the special "Bernie vision" here in the US?
(That's the extra feeds you can get with different camera shots and stuff.)
---------------------------
At 12:06 AM 9/21/00 , type79@ix.netcom.com wrote:
>I don't know the source of the quoted piece but this link is a more
>accurate and
>objective report on the special tires being supplied for the F1 race at
>Indianapolis.
>http://www.formula1.com/news/headlines00/usa/s3259.html
>
>As anyone familiar with the upcoming F1 race already knows, the teams will be
>exposed to new issues running on a banked circuit, albeit only partially
>banked,
>for the first time in the modern era Grand Prix racing.
>
>This weekend will be a historic event and an important race for many different
>reasons. None of the drivers have ever driven this circuit, none of the
>teams have
>tested there, the banking as already mentioned, and of course, the close
>battle
>between the two 2-time champions, one of which may become the first 3-time
>consecutive champion since Fangio in the 50's.
>
>Incredible.
>
>2:00pm Sunday 9-24-2000
>
>jay fishbein
>wallingford, ct
>
>Bill Katz wrote:
>
> > Check this out.
> >
> > Formula One teams put on
> > notice about danger of
> > underinflated tires
> >
> > September 20, 2000
> >
> > BY HERB GOULD STAFF REPORTER
> >
> > Formula One tire supplier Bridgestone, which has been feeling
> > the heat of
> > tire failures on Ford Explorers using its Firestone tires,
From Chris & Dawne Yusi <chris at ucbrothers.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 22:51:10 -0700
Subject: Mstr.Cyl.Q/Rubber Stripping/Hardtop Hardware
Here's an easy one, listers. I'm rebuilding my master cylinders with
a kit from Moss. Where is the packet of red Girling grease supposed
to be applied? The plunger does not return with just the spring and
hydraulic fluid lubing the new seals, but I thought I'd ask before I
introduce anything other than hydraulic fluid into the system.
I'm also looking for the rubber (?) stripping for around the door
sills and the edge of the engine compartment (where the hood meets
the shroud). Are there low-cost alternatives to original?
Finally, I need one front and one rear hook for a hardtop. The front
base is in place. I just need the hinged hook assembly. In the
rear, I'm missing the hook, washer and wing nut. Any help would be
appreciated.
TIA,
Chris
'61 BT7 (Still Nameless - Considering "Boom-Boom" as in Boomerang)
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 08:45:15 +0100
Subject: Re: BN1/2 ORIG. BUMPER/CLUTCH PARTS
Curt
I do not wish to get into a lengthy discussion so I will just eloborate
on my main point. The BN2 ceased production and the BN4 took over in the
summer of 1956. The BN4 (100/6) had a hydraulic clutch system which
virtually eliminated any linkage of the type found on BN1/2.
To the best of my knowledge, confirmed by the documentation, no
modification was ever made to the BN1/2 linkage.
This is why I say that any mention of a square section bar is confusing
people.
However I should add that whilst I do not have modified linkage I do
have a beefed up operating arm on the clutch operating cross shaft. The
originals were very prone to cracking at the hole where the return
spring fitted.
Regarding modified linkage if owners feel that it can be improved then
they should follow their convictions.
All the best
>
><< This subject is getting terribly confused. The subject is BN1/2 Clutch
> parts but we are getting references to early 60s cars which had a
> completely different clutch operating system. Is it time for a reset?>>
>
> John, with all due respect what was referred to was the possibility that
> due to the high failure rate of the original short clutch rod that BMC may
> have redesigned its replacement in the early sixties using 1/2" square bar
> stock versus the original 5/16" steel rod. Whether this design is BMC's
> or Kilmartins is not the point, what I feel is important is having a
> replacement part made that looks exactly like the original but manufactured
> with better quality materials that will last. Like Rich Chrysler, I plan to
>drive
> the heck out of my concours car when it's finally finished.
>
> <<For what it is worth, my own opinion is that the original set up does
> not cause any problems if correctly fitted, properly maintained and
> lubricated and not damaged over bumps in the road. My present system was
> rebuilt as original 48,000 miles back and is still in good shape. >>
>
> Once again John, a lot of ifs and I don't disagree with you statement.
> Unfortunately very many of the typical 70 to 80Kmile original cars do not
> have their original clutch rod and if the do they have either been repaired
> or are worn to a point that repair or replacement is required. I have seen
> original clutch rods from no less than four low mile (< 50K) and in all but
> one, a BN2 with 27K original miles, these pieces needed to be repaired
> or replaced.
>
> I have also corresponded with one owner who many years ago used his
> car as a daily driver (20K per year) who stated that there was a very high
> failure rate and that the dealers, at least, were very well aware of it since
> they had to replace them!
>
> >>My original BN1 clutch linkage is still strong after 100,000 + miles.
> Faithful lubrication is important.<<
>
> This statement from Jim at ah102@home.com appears to be the exception
> rather than the rule. We should all have maintained our cars this well and
> I'm certain after too many years and too many thousands of dollars restoring
> my car I will.
>
> Enough for now
>
> Curt
>
>
--
John Harper
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 20:32:28 +1000
Subject: Re: Getting STP in your steering box
Is it necessary to drain all the oil from the box first ?
>
> I have a trick for getting the Penrite steering box oil in. I heat up the
> oil in boiling water and pour it into a pump type oil can and pump it in.
> Goes pretty easily. Still takes awhile to totally fill.
> Ned Paulsen
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 05:53:25 -0500
Subject: Re: Mstr.Cyl.Q/Rubber Stripping/Hardtop Hardware
the girling lube goes inside the rubber boots as a rubber preservative.
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris & Dawne Yusi <chris@ucbrothers.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Mstr.Cyl.Q/Rubber Stripping/Hardtop Hardware
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 22:51:10 -0700
Here's an easy one, listers. I'm rebuilding my master cylinders with
a kit from Moss. Where is the packet of red Girling grease supposed
to be applied? The plunger does not return with just the spring and
hydraulic fluid lubing the new seals, but I thought I'd ask before I
introduce anything other than hydraulic fluid into the system.
I'm also looking for the rubber (?) stripping for around the door
sills and the edge of the engine compartment (where the hood meets
the shroud). Are there low-cost alternatives to original?
Finally, I need one front and one rear hook for a hardtop. The front
base is in place. I just need the hinged hook assembly. In the
rear, I'm missing the hook, washer and wing nut. Any help would be
appreciated.
TIA,
Chris
'61 BT7 (Still Nameless - Considering "Boom-Boom" as in Boomerang)
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 07:51:39 -0400
Subject: Suspension question
Since I only have, and ever driven one Healey, it's hard to compare how they
should handle on the open road. Now admittedly, mine seems to handle rough.
But I have noticed at highway speed a tendency for the front end to float.
Is this normal? Currently I am running without a front sway bar, would this
help? I believe I had it installed the wrong way, because the end links
were at a sever angle. Could this have been a problem also?... TIA
Steve Kocik
'61 BN7
From "Douglas W. Flagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 08:02:32 -0400
Subject: Re: BN1/2 ORIG. BUMPER/CLUTCH PARTS
John,
Are we making this more complicated than it really is? I fail to see the
confusion and understand completely what Curt is suggesting. There are
other sources that have already produced the 5/16" rod in stainless. It
is the efforts of Curt and others who have made available to us obsolete
parts and improvements on originals that we otherwise would not have
access to. It is one thing to correct an inaccuracy, but another to
castigate. So, let's forget the lengthy discussions and move on,
appreciating the talent available to this list.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
On Thu, 21 Sep 2000 08:45:15 +0100 John Harper <John@jharper.demon.co.uk>
writes:
>
>
>Curt
>
>I do not wish to get into a lengthy discussion so I will just
>eloborate
>on my main point. The BN2 ceased production and the BN4 took over in
>the
>summer of 1956. The BN4 (100/6) had a hydraulic clutch system which
>virtually eliminated any linkage of the type found on BN1/2.
>
>To the best of my knowledge, confirmed by the documentation, no
>modification was ever made to the BN1/2 linkage.
>
>This is why I say that any mention of a square section bar is
>confusing
>people.
>
>However I should add that whilst I do not have modified linkage I do
>have a beefed up operating arm on the clutch operating cross shaft.
>The
>originals were very prone to cracking at the hole where the return
>spring fitted.
>
>Regarding modified linkage if owners feel that it can be improved then
>they should follow their convictions.
>
>All the best
>>
>><< This subject is getting terribly confused. The subject is BN1/2
>Clutch
>> parts but we are getting references to early 60s cars which had a
>> completely different clutch operating system. Is it time for a
>reset?>>
>>
>> John, with all due respect what was referred to was the possibility
>that
>> due to the high failure rate of the original short clutch rod that
>BMC may
>> have redesigned its replacement in the early sixties using 1/2"
>square bar
>> stock versus the original 5/16" steel rod. Whether this design is
>BMC's
>> or Kilmartins is not the point, what I feel is important is having a
>
>> replacement part made that looks exactly like the original but
>manufactured
>> with better quality materials that will last. Like Rich Chrysler, I
>plan to
>>drive
>> the heck out of my concours car when it's finally finished.
>>
>> <<For what it is worth, my own opinion is that the original set up
>does
>> not cause any problems if correctly fitted, properly maintained and
>> lubricated and not damaged over bumps in the road. My present system
>was
>> rebuilt as original 48,000 miles back and is still in good shape. >>
>>
>> Once again John, a lot of ifs and I don't disagree with you
>statement.
>> Unfortunately very many of the typical 70 to 80Kmile original cars
>do not
>> have their original clutch rod and if the do they have either been
>repaired
>> or are worn to a point that repair or replacement is required. I
>have seen
>> original clutch rods from no less than four low mile (< 50K) and in
>all but
>> one, a BN2 with 27K original miles, these pieces needed to be
>repaired
>> or replaced.
>>
>> I have also corresponded with one owner who many years ago used his
>> car as a daily driver (20K per year) who stated that there was a
>very high
>> failure rate and that the dealers, at least, were very well aware of
>it since
>> they had to replace them!
>>
>> >>My original BN1 clutch linkage is still strong after 100,000 +
>miles.
>> Faithful lubrication is important.<<
>>
>> This statement from Jim at ah102@home.com appears to be the
>exception
>> rather than the rule. We should all have maintained our cars this
>well and
>> I'm certain after too many years and too many thousands of dollars
>restoring
>> my car I will.
>>
>> Enough for now
>>
>> Curt
>>
>>
>
>--
>John Harper
________________________________________________________________
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
From "JISah102" <ah102 at home.com>
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 08:47:01 -0400
Subject: Re: Suspension question
Steve: When properly set up, with good springs, shocks, kingpins, etc,
(radial tires also) The big healey is a delight to drive, handles like it
should....a Heavy Sportscar. I have noticed that the front end gets light
(feels like it wants to lift) at very high speeds...90 to 120 MPH, but at
normal highway speeds, there should be no float. Turn the triangle brackets
for the sway bar around the right way, and the links should line up
properly.
Good Luck
Jim, BN1, BN2, BN6, BN7
----- Original Message -----
From: Kocik, Stephen W <Stephen.Kocik@unisys.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2000 7:51 AM
Subject: Suspension question
>
> Since I only have, and ever driven one Healey, it's hard to compare how
they
> should handle on the open road. Now admittedly, mine seems to handle
rough.
> But I have noticed at highway speed a tendency for the front end to float.
> Is this normal? Currently I am running without a front sway bar, would
this
> help? I believe I had it installed the wrong way, because the end links
> were at a sever angle. Could this have been a problem also?... TIA
>
> Steve Kocik
> '61 BN7
>
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 09:00:54 -0400
Subject: Re: Getting STP in your steering box
Greg,
No need for the exrta effort, the steering box will drain itself.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: Greg Bankin <gregbankin@primus.com.au>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2000 6:32 AM
Subject: Re: Getting STP in your steering box
>
> Is it necessary to drain all the oil from the box first ?
>
> Greg Bankin
> gregbankin@primus.com.au
> Sunshine Coast
> Queensland
> Australia
>
> '58 BN4
>
From "Dr. C Rubino" <ruvino at recorder.ca>
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 09:28:07 -0400
Subject:
Fellow Healey Owners-a poser
Last week I travelled to a car show just west of Toronto by entering the
States from Canada just East of Lake Ontario and travelling West to Niagara
Falls on the South side of the Lake. Great trip.
In total the mileage was 400 and I drove straight through (stopping for gas
only).
On arrival I found I was leaking oil (previously not much of a leaker) from
the transmission area and oil was blowing out the valve cover gasket and
dripping off the back of the engine.
Now in total my tranny fluid may have been down 5 ounces and my engine oil
one litre.
I subsequently drove an additional 200 miles without incident. When I got
home I put cardboard under the car and the next day there were about twenty
randomly placed drips. A day later only one (this is more like normal).
It is possible that the oil around the transmission was also the oil blowing
out of the valve cover gasket and that my tranny was just a little low on
oil to begin with.
I havn't had time to get it up on a rack to check things out.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Carl Rubino
'57 BN-4 (Longbridge)
From Jim Rowan <jimrowan at uic.edu>
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 09:44:36 -0500
Subject: Re: Tire related: It was just a matter of time
and I'll be there in the main grandstand. Can't wait to see
them coming out of turn 13 and going by full tilt over 200mph,
19K rpm. Course this won't happen as rain is forecast for the
entire weekend. Any sporting event or car show/ralleye I attend is
besieged by torrential rain. So the Bridgestone full wets will get a work out.
Cheers,
James
At 12:06 AM 09/21/2000 -0700, you wrote:
>
>I don't know the source of the quoted piece but this link is a more accurate
>and
>objective report on the special tires being supplied for the F1 race at
>Indianapolis.
>http://www.formula1.com/news/headlines00/usa/s3259.html
>
>As anyone familiar with the upcoming F1 race already knows, the teams will be
>exposed to new issues running on a banked circuit, albeit only partially
>banked,
>for the first time in the modern era Grand Prix racing.
>
>This weekend will be a historic event and an important race for many different
>reasons. None of the drivers have ever driven this circuit, none of the
>teams have
>tested there, the banking as already mentioned, and of course, the close
battle
>between the two 2-time champions, one of which may become the first 3-time
>consecutive champion since Fangio in the 50's.
>
>Incredible.
>
>2:00pm Sunday 9-24-2000
>
>jay fishbein
>wallingford, ct
From "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec at globalserve.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 10:51:14 -0400
Subject: Re: Lucas oil
Presume you were at British Car Day. I heard there were 1200 Brit
cars. I was the Iris Blue Bug Eye.
20 drips? In the LBC world, a pittance. However, reduction after
sitting a day denotes you are "pumping" oil, rather than static
drip leaking and that is further supported by the 1 litre lost in
the sump. Also, I would guess that blowing out the rear rocker
would contaminate the tranni.
Start her up and or drive to replicate the symptoms. Check your
breather tube, oil cap for exhaust pressure. Check your rad for
bubbles or oil contamination. Look for water or combustion
contamination in the oil. Combinations of these point to broken
head gasket or rings. Then its time for a compression test.
I have also found oil leaks sometimes are very insidious in
disguising their source. A complete clean up and degreasing,
followed by a short run often more accurately will show the exact
source. I have regasketed a diff only to eventually find a
microscopic casting crack 1/16 inches above the flange bolt. I
have changed a sump gasket to and still was leaking from an
accessory/block joint just above the sump gasket.
Mike L.
60A,67E,59Bug
----- Original Message -----
From: Dr. C Rubino <ruvino@recorder.ca>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: September 21, 2000 9:28 AM
>
> Fellow Healey Owners-a poser
>
> Last week I travelled to a car show just west of Toronto by
entering the
> States from Canada just East of Lake Ontario and travelling West
to Niagara
> Falls on the South side of the Lake. Great trip.
>
> In total the mileage was 400 and I drove straight through
(stopping for gas
> only).
>
> On arrival I found I was leaking oil (previously not much of a
leaker) from
> the transmission area and oil was blowing out the valve cover
gasket and
> dripping off the back of the engine.
>
> Now in total my tranny fluid may have been down 5 ounces and my
engine oil
> one litre.
>
> I subsequently drove an additional 200 miles without incident.
When I got
> home I put cardboard under the car and the next day there were
about twenty
> randomly placed drips. A day later only one (this is more like
normal).
>
> It is possible that the oil around the transmission was also the
oil blowing
> out of the valve cover gasket and that my tranny was just a
little low on
> oil to begin with.
>
> I havn't had time to get it up on a rack to check things out.
>
> Any thoughts would be appreciated.
>
> Carl Rubino
> '57 BN-4 (Longbridge)
>
>
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 11:20:11 EDT
Subject: Re: Suspension question
In a message dated 9/21/00 4:53:29 AM, Stephen.Kocik@unisys.com writes:
<<
Since I only have, and ever driven one Healey, it's hard to compare how they
should handle on the open road. Now admittedly, mine seems to handle rough.
But I have noticed at highway speed a tendency for the front end to float.
Is this normal? Currently I am running without a front sway bar, would this
help? I believe I had it installed the wrong way, because the end links
were at a sever angle. Could this have been a problem also?... TIA
Steve Kocik
'61 BN7
*************************************************
Yes with out the sway bar the car will feeel very unstable going down the
road and the faster you go the worse it will be. The sway bar links should be
straight up, if they are at a sharp angle the triangle bracket that is
attached to the lower control arm that the sway bar attaches to is on the
wrong side of the car. It should attach with the short straight side of the
bracket goes towards the center of the car.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>Br
itishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From Ward Stebner <liason at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 09:00:54 -0600
Subject: Looking for John Hunt
If you are lurking on the list John, please send me an email.
Ward Stebner
From Rohan Marr <rohan at marketocracy.com>
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 08:54:56 -0700
Subject: New to list .. Hi
Hi All,
I just wanted to introduce myself and say Hi and ask some advice.
I am an Aussie living in the US and have recently relocated from Los
Angeles to San Fran (well Los Altos actually). You will be happy to
note that while my belongings were sent via crate and truck, myself
and my 1956 100-6 BN4 (tri-carb, RHD) drove the eventful journey from
LA via the 101.
Now that I am up here in N Cal I would love some recommendations for
local groups/clubs and also reliable references to mechanics who KNOW
what they are looking at when they open my hood.
Thanks in advance.
(I almost joined the SoCal AH Club but I feel that might just be too far away)
Rohan '56 BN4
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 12:05:34 EDT
Subject: Re: New to list .. Hi
G'day Mate (I guess I have been watching too much Olympics),
Glad to have you here. I live in North Carolina and probably won't meet up
with you until 2002 at the joint International Meet in Lake Tahoe on the
California border.
I am writing to encourage you to join Austin-Healey Club of America for their
magazine. I am enclosing their web site which will also get you to many
others for local events.
Welcome!
Rudy Streng
BN1, BN4 ( only 2 carbs)
http://www.healeyclub.org
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 09:30:52 -0700
Subject: Re: Tire related: It was just a matter of time
So if you stay home will we get to see them race in the dry?<g>
If it rains there is little doubt who is the rain meister.
bk
-------------------------------------
At 07:44 AM 9/21/00 , Jim Rowan wrote:
>and I'll be there in the main grandstand. Can't wait to see
>them coming out of turn 13 and going by full tilt over 200mph,
>19K rpm. Course this won't happen as rain is forecast for the
>entire weekend. Any sporting event or car show/ralleye I attend is
>besieged by torrential rain. So the Bridgestone full wets will get a work out.
>
>Cheers,
>James
>
>At 12:06 AM 09/21/2000 -0700, you wrote:
> >
> >I don't know the source of the quoted piece but this link is a more
> accurate
> >and
> >objective report on the special tires being supplied for the F1 race at
> >Indianapolis.
> >http://www.formula1.com/news/headlines00/usa/s3259.html
> >
> >As anyone familiar with the upcoming F1 race already knows, the teams
> will be
> >exposed to new issues running on a banked circuit, albeit only partially
> >banked,
> >for the first time in the modern era Grand Prix racing.
> >
> >This weekend will be a historic event and an important race for many
> different
> >reasons. None of the drivers have ever driven this circuit, none of the
> >teams have
> >tested there, the banking as already mentioned, and of course, the close
>battle
> >between the two 2-time champions, one of which may become the first 3-time
> >consecutive champion since Fangio in the 50's.
> >
> >Incredible.
> >
> >2:00pm Sunday 9-24-2000
> >
> >jay fishbein
> >wallingford, ct
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 11:56:01 -0500
Subject: Re: Suspension question
Steve:
The "float" that you are experiencing along with the roughness on city
streets is due to wear in the suspension components. I expect that you have:
a) too much play in your steering box;
b) worn bushes in the kingpins, trunions and A arm ends.
c) wheel Timkin bearings could also be out of adjustment
The roughness is from parts bouncing against one another and bad rubber
bushes. The float is a combination of the former plus the steering box
adjustment. The copper alloy bushes in the kingpin are also suspect for
both items. The sway bar is of little effect in a straight line on the
highway. It transfers weight in hard cornering situations.
Best regards.
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
>But I have noticed at highway speed a tendency for the front end to float.
>
> Steve Kocik
> '61 BN7
>
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 12:53:52 EDT
Subject: Re: Suspension question
In a message dated 9/21/00 4:53:26 AM, Stephen.Kocik@unisys.com writes:
<< Since I only have, and ever driven one Healey, it's hard to compare how
they
should handle on the open road. Now admittedly, mine seems to handle rough.
But I have noticed at highway speed a tendency for the front end to float.
Is this normal? Currently I am running without a front sway bar, would this
help? I believe I had it installed the wrong way, because the end links
were at a sever angle. Could this have been a problem also?... TIA
Steve Kocik
'61 BN7 >>
While the front antiroll bar can make changes in the way the car turns more
than it affects straight line driving, the floating is usually caused by the
front dampers. When the wheels can't stay on the ground the car will feel
very light at speed. Have someone drive along side and they will probably see
your front wheels hopping quite a bit.
You can have the dampers re-filled with oil very simply and (if the rest of
the bits are in decent shape) you should get a marked improvement.
Yes, switch the antiroll bar brackets to the opposite sides and that thing
oughtta line up ok.
Rick
San Diego
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 13:01:19 EDT
Subject: Re: oil on the floor
In a message dated 9/21/00 9:34:16 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
ruvino@recorder.ca writes:
<< It is possible that the oil around the transmission was also the oil
blowing
out of the valve cover gasket and that my tranny was just a little low on
oil to begin with. >>
Your engine oil--especially if detergent type--will have a dirty appearance
whereas tranny oil will be clean. Thus, you should not have any problem
distinguishing the source--if not the cause!
Michael, BN1
From CNAArndt at aol.com
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 13:11:34 EDT
Subject: Re: BN1/2 ORIG. BUMPER/CLUTCH PARTS
In a message dated 09/21/2000 12:52:57 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
John@jharper.demon.co.uk writes:
<< Regarding modified linkage if owners feel that it can be improved then
they should follow their convictions. >>
John
>From this statement I still feel that you are a bit confused, so let me
attempt to clarify. What I am trying to offer is a just like original, but
with stronger materials, round 5/16'" short clutch rod just like what was
supplied on our cars as new, i.e. I am NOT modifying anything! The
references made to the 1/2" square rod were only to let people know that
their only replacement option currently available was this stronger but
incorrect rod made by Kilmartin of Australia. Another fact about the
Kilmartin short rod that I haven't even mentioned is that it is about 1/2"
shorter than the originals. This was just another reason for me to try and
reproduce a correct part that wasn't currently available.
Where the confusion may have arisen was in David Nock's statement that this
square rod was not a Kilmartin design but possibly a BMC replacement in the
early sixties. This is his statement, not mine and to perfectly clear here
is the quote.
"The square rod was not a Kilmartin design. The change from the round 5/16
rod
to the square rod was by Healey back in the early 60's".
What he means here has NO reference to the six cylinder cars, but rather is a
statement that BMC may have, after possibly exhausting the stocks of original
spare clutch rods, have redesigned this short rod to be stronger. This would
have been part of the factory spares and product support that any large auto
manufacturer would have supported. Once again this is NOT a statement of
fact but David Nock's opinion and in fact I asked him where he got his
information from!
Here is a perfect example: My '95 Saturn Coupe recently had a cracked head,
(sound familiar all you 100 people), and when I took it to the dealer for
repairs they said that there was a was a design flaw in the casting and that
they had redesigned the head and would replace my cracked one free of charge,
(five years later!).
>>The BN2 ceased production and the BN4 took over in the
summer of 1956. The BN4 (100/6) had a hydraulic clutch system which
virtually eliminated any linkage of the type found on BN1/2.<<
I think that we all know this, however this statement has nothing to do with
the BMC's parts support of a discontinued model
>>To the best of my knowledge, confirmed by the documentation, no
modification was ever made to the BN1/2 linkage.<<
Thanks for this information, that is all David Nock and I were trying to do
was to find out IF in fact there ever was a factory modified clutch rod.
Nothing more, nothing less.
<<This is why I say that any mention of a square section bar is confusing
people.<<
This square bar is the whole point, it is not the correct part and is why I'm
spending a lot of time and effort to offer folks the option of the proper (as
original) part.
I hope this clears thing up once and for all and all I can say regarding this
confusion is the old quote, "England and America, two people separated by a
common language"
Cheers
Curt
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 13:59:48 -0400
Subject: Re:
Hi Carl,
I would think that your diagnosis is correct. Most cars blow the oil from engine
leaks all over the place in highway use when the engine is hot.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
"Dr. C Rubino" wrote:
> Fellow Healey Owners-a poser
>
> Last week I travelled to a car show just west of Toronto by entering the
> States from Canada just East of Lake Ontario and travelling West to Niagara
> Falls on the South side of the Lake. Great trip.
>
> In total the mileage was 400 and I drove straight through (stopping for gas
> only).
>
> On arrival I found I was leaking oil (previously not much of a leaker) from
> the transmission area and oil was blowing out the valve cover gasket and
> dripping off the back of the engine.
>
> Now in total my tranny fluid may have been down 5 ounces and my engine oil
> one litre.
>
> I subsequently drove an additional 200 miles without incident. When I got
> home I put cardboard under the car and the next day there were about twenty
> randomly placed drips. A day later only one (this is more like normal).
>
> It is possible that the oil around the transmission was also the oil blowing
> out of the valve cover gasket and that my tranny was just a little low on
> oil to begin with.
>
> I havn't had time to get it up on a rack to check things out.
>
> Any thoughts would be appreciated.
>
> Carl Rubino
> '57 BN-4 (Longbridge)
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 15:25:51 EDT
Subject: Re: New to list .. Hi
Welcome to sunny northern Calif. were you can enjoy driving with the top
down almost year round. We do have a Austin Healey club here in the Bay Area
that is afiliated with AHCA.
I am the president of the local club The Golden Gate Austin Healey Club
for membership you can contact our editor John Triffari at 1-408-541-9608.
We are having a tour this weekend up to Ironstone winery in Murphys, they
are having a concors up there on saturday, we are also doing a tour of the
Sierra foothills on October 7 , I am leading both trips if you would like to
join us plese give me a call at my shop @1-209-948-8767
We are also sponsoring the 50th anniversary International Healey meet in
Lake tahoe in June of 2002
As far as a Healey repair shop in the area we are only about 1.5 hours
from you and have been restoring Healeys for many years
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>Br
itishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 14:46:37 -0500
Subject: Re: Tire related: It was just a matter of time
i wish you could come to tx to visit and bring the rain with you !!
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Rowan <jimrowan@uic.edu>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Tire related: It was just a matter of time
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 09:44:36 -0500
and I'll be there in the main grandstand. Can't wait to see
them coming out of turn 13 and going by full tilt over 200mph,
19K rpm. Course this won't happen as rain is forecast for the
entire weekend. Any sporting event or car show/ralleye I attend is
besieged by torrential rain. So the Bridgestone full wets will get a work out.
Cheers,
James
At 12:06 AM 09/21/2000 -0700, you wrote:
>
>I don't know the source of the quoted piece but this link is a more accurate
>and
>objective report on the special tires being supplied for the F1 race at
>Indianapolis.
>http://www.formula1.com/news/headlines00/usa/s3259.html
>
>As anyone familiar with the upcoming F1 race already knows, the teams will be
>exposed to new issues running on a banked circuit, albeit only partially
>banked,
>for the first time in the modern era Grand Prix racing.
>
>This weekend will be a historic event and an important race for many different
>reasons. None of the drivers have ever driven this circuit, none of the
>teams have
>tested there, the banking as already mentioned, and of course, the close
battle
>between the two 2-time champions, one of which may become the first 3-time
>consecutive champion since Fangio in the 50's.
>
>Incredible.
>
>2:00pm Sunday 9-24-2000
>
>jay fishbein
>wallingford, ct
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 15:04:52 -0500
Subject: Re: BN1/2 ORIG. BUMPER/CLUTCH PARTS
wheeew !! i'm sure glad i've got a SIX that doesn't have one of them funny
rods !!
----- Original Message -----
From: CNAArndt@aol.com
To: John@jharper.demon.co.uk
Subject: BN1/2 ORIG. BUMPER/CLUTCH PARTS
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 13:11:34 EDT
In a message dated 09/21/2000 12:52:57 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
John@jharper.demon.co.uk writes:
<< Regarding modified linkage if owners feel that it can be improved then
they should follow their convictions. >>
John
>From this statement I still feel that you are a bit confused, so let me
attempt to clarify. What I am trying to offer is a just like original, but
with stronger materials, round 5/16'" short clutch rod just like what was
supplied on our cars as new, i.e. I am NOT modifying anything! The
references made to the 1/2" square rod were only to let people know that
their only replacement option currently available was this stronger but
incorrect rod made by Kilmartin of Australia. Another fact about the
Kilmartin short rod that I haven't even mentioned is that it is about 1/2"
shorter than the originals. This was just another reason for me to try and
reproduce a correct part that wasn't currently available.
Where the confusion may have arisen was in David Nock's statement that this
square rod was not a Kilmartin design but possibly a BMC replacement in the
early sixties. This is his statement, not mine and to perfectly clear here
is the quote.
"The square rod was not a Kilmartin design. The change from the round 5/16
rod
to the square rod was by Healey back in the early 60's".
What he means here has NO reference to the six cylinder cars, but rather is a
statement that BMC may have, after possibly exhausting the stocks of original
spare clutch rods, have redesigned this short rod to be stronger. This would
have been part of the factory spares and product support that any large auto
manufacturer would have supported. Once again this is NOT a statement of
fact but David Nock's opinion and in fact I asked him where he got his
information from!
Here is a perfect example: My '95 Saturn Coupe recently had a cracked head,
(sound familiar all you 100 people), and when I took it to the dealer for
repairs they said that there was a was a design flaw in the casting and that
they had redesigned the head and would replace my cracked one free of charge,
(five years later!).
>>The BN2 ceased production and the BN4 took over in the
summer of 1956. The BN4 (100/6) had a hydraulic clutch system which
virtually eliminated any linkage of the type found on BN1/2.<<
I think that we all know this, however this statement has nothing to do with
the BMC's parts support of a discontinued model
>>To the best of my knowledge, confirmed by the documentation, no
modification was ever made to the BN1/2 linkage.<<
Thanks for this information, that is all David Nock and I were trying to do
was to find out IF in fact there ever was a factory modified clutch rod.
Nothing more, nothing less.
<<This is why I say that any mention of a square section bar is confusing
people.<<
This square bar is the whole point, it is not the correct part and is why I'm
spending a lot of time and effort to offer folks the option of the proper (as
original) part.
I hope this clears thing up once and for all and all I can say regarding this
confusion is the old quote, "England and America, two people separated by a
common language"
Cheers
Curt
From JohnbS7257 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 16:36:00 EDT
Subject: Healey Emblem
Does anyone have a good image of the Healey Emblem? JPEG or TIFF or whatever.
John Stevens
"Ruby" BJ8 27621
JohnbS7257@aol.com
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 16:45:42 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey Emblem
In a message dated 9/21/00 1:40:06 PM, JohnbS7257@aol.com writes:
<<
Does anyone have a good image of the Healey Emblem? JPEG or TIFF or whatever.
John Stevens
"Ruby" BJ8 27621
JohnbS7257@aol.com >>
At my website there is a PDF of an old Healey ad that you can download... If
you have Adobe Illustrator you can open the file as a drawing and extract the
vector art of the script.
I also constructed a 3D looking one that I've seen in use on other people's
websites.
Rick
San Diego
members.aol.com/wilko
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 15:24:01 -0700
Subject: Re: "average"
I absolutely agree that you're better off being able to handle a panic
situation. But driving your vehicle to the edge on ordinary roads is
courting disaster. Do it on the race track. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Csooch1@aol.com>
To: <feehanr@cadvision.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2000 9:06 AM
Subject: Re: "average"
> Ray,
> Once again the safety buff has missed the point. I said "If one can drift
their vehicle through a corner I feel pretty safe driving next to them".
That means that if the person driving next to me on the highway is CAPABLE
of driving his/her vehicle to the limit, then I feel safer than if they have
never controlled a skid before. Anyone can drive fast in a straight line,
but it takes skill to push to the edge without going over. More skill is
what is needed along with a knowledge of what the vehicle can and can't do.
Would you agree that it would be better to know how to drive out of a skid,
than to never have tried it...until sliding towards someone in panic?
> Cheers,
> Chris
> BJ8...never driven yet
> XJ6...doesn't like to drift, but can do it
> MX5...drifts very nicely
>
> >>If you have to drift your vehicle through a corner you're going too
fast.
> Slow down. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.<<
>
>
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 15:25:09 -0700
Subject: Re: "average"
Sounds like road rage Mike! RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <mlupynec@globalserve.net>; <Csooch1@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2000 9:06 AM
Subject: Re: "average"
>
> In a message dated 9/20/00 9:51:34 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> mlupynec@globalserve.net writes:
>
> << Half the time when I signal, the dolt in the next lane immediately
> speeds up to close the gap I'm moving into. And these dolts are
> usually from the "drive by the rule - don't speed crowd".
> >>
> They need to be shot out of hand.... Down here in Southern Maryland the
rule
> seems to be to drive just slightly under the speed limit in the left land,
> adjusting your speed to another car in the right lane so as to block any
> chances of passing.
>
> Michael
>
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 15:30:32 -0700
Subject: Re: "average"
Absolutely too many drivers feel that activating their turn signal gives
them the right of way. Then there are the other ones who are half way into a
lane change before the turn signal comes on. I just laugh at them and try to
stay out of their way. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: <Csooch1@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2000 6:48 PM
Subject: Re: "average"
>
> Here is one of my pet peeves. Turn signals.
>
> During my driver's training courses I seem to recall that the turn signal
> was to communicate your intention to make a turn or change lanes, but you
> still had to yield the right of way. Today it seems that the turn signal
> gives you the right of way to do these things no matter what. That is, if
> she has her signal on she has the right of way to pull in front of you.
> Right? Has this all changed in the past 40 years?
>
> Keith Pennell
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Csooch1@aol.com>
> Also, how many drivers can you count in a day that feel that turn signals
> are an option?
>
>
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 18:02:04 -0500
Subject: FLASH --Tx Kooler first ever fall special --FLASH
The first two astute buyers and really cool guys to hop on the web site special
are Ed from NM and Dan from WI. Each will find a super neat sports shirt from
the Last Texas Healey Round Up of the 90's in their package as a BONUS !! We
have a few more Bonii left so get your check in the mail now.
After you check out the Kooler info on www.ntahc.austin1.com scroll on down and
take a gander at the nifty Healey Wings watch. Only $29.95 additional to your
check. Talk about the Healey time of your life......
After you complete your shopping, click on some of the past events -- there are
lot's of good pics. Y'all come see us !!
Happy Healeying,
your friends in north texas
From BillHUCK at aol.com
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 21:03:15 EDT
Subject: SU float chamber
After tuning SU's by the book, I invariably find that, after removing the
two needle/bell assembly's, that the liquid level in the jet areas differ
after purging and switching on the ignition. Thirty years ago I ignored the
finding. Ten years ago I decided to go off standard and adjust the floats so
that the fluid levels were equal.
Maybe my concern is meaningless. Any thoughts? Bill Huck - BJ8,
BN1, BT7
From JohnbS7257 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 21:10:41 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey Emblem
I guess I should have been more specific. What I am looking for is the wings
from the front of the car which have the model in them. Such as Austin
Healey, 3000 MkIII.
Sorry and thanks to those who have answered.
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 21:31:46 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey Emblem
In a message dated 9/21/00 9:12:58 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
JohnbS7257@aol.com writes:
<< Such as Austin Healey, 3000 MkIII. >>
Which reminds me: How and when did "Austin-Healey" become "Austin Healey"?
Michael, BN1 (Austin-Healey)
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 22:10:12 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey Emblem
In a message dated 09/21/2000 8:35:03 PM Central Daylight Time,
Awgertoo@aol.com writes:
<< Which reminds me: >>
In any of a dozen books, Michael!!
Ed
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 22:15:08 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey Emblem
In a message dated 09/21/2000 8:35:03 PM Central Daylight Time,
Awgertoo@aol.com writes:
<< How and when did "Austin-Healey" become "Austin Healey"? >>
Michael:
My SINCEREST apologies !!!!! This getting up a 3:30 AM and still being up
NOW is, in fact, getting to me !!!
Now, I ARE gonna re-take reading lessons, I guess !-?-!-?-!-?-!-?-!-?
Again, sorry.................
Cheers................
Dyslectic Ed
PS: but please notice THIS time I included "hyphen" !!
From "Phil Nase" <pnase at enter.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 22:16:06 -0400
Subject: tune up
I just completed (almost) a tune up on my BN1. Including valve adjustment,
new points, condenser, rotor and plugs. Now I'm adjusting the carbs. I'm
going by the book, which is to say the owners' manual and also an SU carb
manual I have.
I have it all set up and it sounds about right however, last night I used a
color tune for the first time and I can't get anything but a hint of blue on
any cylinder. Mostly they are yellow (rich). Has anyone had this problem
before. I leaned out the carbs until the idle got irregular and still the
color tune was showing yellow. The only thing I've done that is unusual is
to gap the plugs +.005 to .030 because of the sport coil. (The carbs were
rebuilt two years ago except for some minor play in the throttle shafts.)
Bye the way I went back to the "old" method. I would like to get it correct
though. I hate to think I'm one of those guys no one wants to follow on
tours. Especially since we are usually leading them. Any and all help is
appreciated. Thanks.
Phil Nase
1955 BN1
(running rich)
From Rick Snover <rsnover at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 20:41:56 -0700
Subject: Re: Healey Emblem
Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> Which reminds me: How and when did "Austin-Healey" become "Austin Healey"?
>
> Michael, BN1 (Austin-Healey)
According to Mike Lawrence, on page 59 of his book "Essential
Austin-Healey 100 & 3000":
"...Pedants may like to know that 'Austin-Healey' had mysteriously
lost
its hyphen when the [3000] MkII was introduced..."
The only reason I knew where to find that is that I used it as a trivia
question earlier this year.
Rick (BT7 Austin Healey 3000 Mk II, AN5 Austin-Healey Sprite vintage
racer)
Editor, Healey Hearsay (Austin-Healey Club of San Diego)
http://www.sdhealey.org
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 19:45:29 +0100
Subject: Re: BN1/2 ORIG. BUMPER/CLUTCH PARTS
Curt
If I have to eat humble pie or apologise to somebody to get out of this
one I will.
Yes I agree it was David Nock's suggestion that there was a possible
modification in the 60s that started all this.
I also would like to know where David got this idea from.
I am now going to stick my neck out again.
I was based at BMC Service for about four years in the early 1960s
keeping their early computer systems going. There were long periods when
the equipment went well and the BMC management wanted me out of sight,
not touching the equipment but within quick call if something should go
wrong.
This gave me the unique opertunity to wander through all the Austin-
Healey records. Just to give you an example I tracked down a BN1 3.667:1
Crown Wheel and Pinion which was going to scrap so that the bin could be
reutilised. I paid 7/6d for the pair which would be around 1US$. But I
digress. What I discovered was that post manufacturing Austin-Healey
modifications were rare. In fact I only found a very small number that
were not recorded in Austin Service Journals. Those that I did find were
in fact common to later use of the same part. For example some engine
parts were used on such vehicles as an EA van. If you ordered a part for
a 100 which was common to the still current EA van you would have been
sent the modified part.
However when it comes to the BN1/2 Clutch Linkage my recollection is
that there were no unrecorded modifications which is why I thought that
the statement would have caused confusion.
I wish you luck with your reproduced parts. Carry on the good work.
All the best
In message <4b.11794d5.26fb9b46@aol.com>, CNAArndt@aol.com writes
>In a message dated 09/21/2000 12:52:57 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
>John@jharper.demon.co.uk writes:
>
><< Regarding modified linkage if owners feel that it can be improved then
> they should follow their convictions. >>
>
>John
>
>From this statement I still feel that you are a bit confused, so let me
>attempt to clarify. What I am trying to offer is a just like original, but
>with stronger materials, round 5/16'" short clutch rod just like what was
>supplied on our cars as new, i.e. I am NOT modifying anything! The
>references made to the 1/2" square rod were only to let people know that
>their only replacement option currently available was this stronger but
>incorrect rod made by Kilmartin of Australia. Another fact about the
>Kilmartin short rod that I haven't even mentioned is that it is about 1/2"
>shorter than the originals. This was just another reason for me to try and
>reproduce a correct part that wasn't currently available.
>
>Where the confusion may have arisen was in David Nock's statement that this
>square rod was not a Kilmartin design but possibly a BMC replacement in the
>early sixties. This is his statement, not mine and to perfectly clear here
>is the quote.
>
>"The square rod was not a Kilmartin design. The change from the round 5/16
>rod
>to the square rod was by Healey back in the early 60's".
>
>What he means here has NO reference to the six cylinder cars, but rather is a
>statement that BMC may have, after possibly exhausting the stocks of original
>spare clutch rods, have redesigned this short rod to be stronger. This would
>have been part of the factory spares and product support that any large auto
>manufacturer would have supported. Once again this is NOT a statement of
>fact but David Nock's opinion and in fact I asked him where he got his
>information from!
>
>Here is a perfect example: My '95 Saturn Coupe recently had a cracked head,
>(sound familiar all you 100 people), and when I took it to the dealer for
>repairs they said that there was a was a design flaw in the casting and that
>they had redesigned the head and would replace my cracked one free of charge,
>(five years later!).
>
>>>The BN2 ceased production and the BN4 took over in the
>summer of 1956. The BN4 (100/6) had a hydraulic clutch system which
>virtually eliminated any linkage of the type found on BN1/2.<<
>
>I think that we all know this, however this statement has nothing to do with
>the BMC's parts support of a discontinued model
>
>>>To the best of my knowledge, confirmed by the documentation, no
>modification was ever made to the BN1/2 linkage.<<
>
>Thanks for this information, that is all David Nock and I were trying to do
>was to find out IF in fact there ever was a factory modified clutch rod.
>Nothing more, nothing less.
>
><<This is why I say that any mention of a square section bar is confusing
>people.<<
>
>This square bar is the whole point, it is not the correct part and is why I'm
>spending a lot of time and effort to offer folks the option of the proper (as
>original) part.
>
>I hope this clears thing up once and for all and all I can say regarding this
>confusion is the old quote, "England and America, two people separated by a
>common language"
>
>Cheers
>
>Curt
--
John Harper
From "Andy King" <healey-100 at hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 21:13:22 -1000
Subject: Re: BN1/2 ORIG. BUMPER/CLUTCH PARTS (Solution)
Well on my first restoration I found a square rod made of mild steel, I
thought it was home made, but it was very well made. So I can say I have
seen both the flimsy round stock and the stronger square bar stock linkage.
Has anyone done as I have done and taken a spare 100 brake linkage push rod
flipped it around and screwed a threaded rod in the end that used to hook
up to the master cylinder and attached that to the yoke on the throw out
arm, slid the forked end over the frame mounted bellcrank? It's way strong,
looks very factory as it matches the brake pushrod parts. (This is on a
left hand drive car.) I will soon be able to send a pic if somebody wants
to post it.
Andy King
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <CNAArndt@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2000 10:04 AM
Subject: Re: BN1/2 ORIG. BUMPER/CLUTCH PARTS
>
> wheeew !! i'm sure glad i've got a SIX that doesn't have one of them
funny rods !!
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: CNAArndt@aol.com
> To: John@jharper.demon.co.uk
> Subject: BN1/2 ORIG. BUMPER/CLUTCH PARTS
> Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 13:11:34 EDT
>
>
> In a message dated 09/21/2000 12:52:57 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
> John@jharper.demon.co.uk writes:
>
> << Regarding modified linkage if owners feel that it can be improved then
> they should follow their convictions. >>
>
> John
>
> From this statement I still feel that you are a bit confused, so let me
> attempt to clarify. What I am trying to offer is a just like original,
but
> with stronger materials, round 5/16'" short clutch rod just like what was
> supplied on our cars as new, i.e. I am NOT modifying anything! The
> references made to the 1/2" square rod were only to let people know that
> their only replacement option currently available was this stronger but
> incorrect rod made by Kilmartin of Australia. Another fact about the
> Kilmartin short rod that I haven't even mentioned is that it is about 1/2"
> shorter than the originals. This was just another reason for me to try
and
> reproduce a correct part that wasn't currently available.
>
> Where the confusion may have arisen was in David Nock's statement that
this
> square rod was not a Kilmartin design but possibly a BMC replacement in
the
> early sixties. This is his statement, not mine and to perfectly clear
here
> is the quote.
>
> "The square rod was not a Kilmartin design. The change from the round 5/16
> rod
> to the square rod was by Healey back in the early 60's".
>
> What he means here has NO reference to the six cylinder cars, but rather
is a
> statement that BMC may have, after possibly exhausting the stocks of
original
> spare clutch rods, have redesigned this short rod to be stronger. This
would
> have been part of the factory spares and product support that any large
auto
> manufacturer would have supported. Once again this is NOT a statement of
> fact but David Nock's opinion and in fact I asked him where he got his
> information from!
>
> Here is a perfect example: My '95 Saturn Coupe recently had a cracked
head,
> (sound familiar all you 100 people), and when I took it to the dealer for
> repairs they said that there was a was a design flaw in the casting and
that
> they had redesigned the head and would replace my cracked one free of
charge,
> (five years later!).
>
> >>The BN2 ceased production and the BN4 took over in the
> summer of 1956. The BN4 (100/6) had a hydraulic clutch system which
> virtually eliminated any linkage of the type found on BN1/2.<<
>
> I think that we all know this, however this statement has nothing to do
with
> the BMC's parts support of a discontinued model
>
> >>To the best of my knowledge, confirmed by the documentation, no
> modification was ever made to the BN1/2 linkage.<<
>
> Thanks for this information, that is all David Nock and I were trying to
do
> was to find out IF in fact there ever was a factory modified clutch rod.
> Nothing more, nothing less.
>
> <<This is why I say that any mention of a square section bar is confusing
> people.<<
>
> This square bar is the whole point, it is not the correct part and is why
I'm
> spending a lot of time and effort to offer folks the option of the proper
(as
> original) part.
>
> I hope this clears thing up once and for all and all I can say regarding
this
> confusion is the old quote, "England and America, two people separated by
a
> common language"
>
> Cheers
>
> Curt
>
>
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 05:40:04 -0500
Subject: Re: FLASH --Tx Kooler first ever fall special --FLASH
this isn't patent medicine -- it's just a 6 blade molded plastic fan which
draws significantly more ambient air through the radiator than the four blade
metal fan. it also helps to close your cooling system with a collection bottle
and have a radiator in good condition.
----- Original Message -----
From: Awgertoo@aol.com
To: jwbn6@iopener.net
Subject: FLASH --Tx Kooler first ever fall special --FLASH
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 19:33:40 EDT
Jerry--
I am not from Missouri, but I am skeptical about miracle cures. I presently
am running a Moss six-bladed fan on my 100, and I would like to know how your
cooler is different and why it will purportedly end all of my problems. My
car runs between 170-180 when moving, but as with many Healeys it is prone to
overheat when sitting still.
Can you convince me--I am more than willing to listen...
Michael
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 05:55:20 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey Emblem
hi ed-
youv'e got to quit reducing things to the lowest common denominator !!
----- Original Message -----
From: JustBrits@aol.com
To: Awgertoo@aol.com, JohnbS7257@aol.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Healey Emblem
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 22:10:12 EDT
In a message dated 09/21/2000 8:35:03 PM Central Daylight Time,
Awgertoo@aol.com writes:
<< Which reminds me: >>
In any of a dozen books, Michael!!
Ed
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 07:26:44 -0400
Subject: Indy meet
I understand that there is a British car meet 30 Sept in Indianapolis.
Does anyone have details that they could forward to me of line.
Many thanks.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
From JohnbS7257 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 09:02:09 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey Emblem
Thanks to all who sent images. Got what I needed.
John Stevens
"Ruby" BJ8 27621
JohnbS7257@aol.com
From "Masucci, Dave" <dmasucci at pinpointco.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 12:02:13 -0400
Subject: RE: "average"
You see Ray...fundamental difference. You find that unsafe. I find other's
inability to practice and control a car in such situations unsafe.
Unpredictable situations happen. You may find yourself in a situation that
to avoid a collision...all of sudden you're in a skid. Do you then consider
yourself out of control? What if then there's another hard immovable object
that you're about to "drift" into? I know how to handle many of those
situations. And please don't tell me that if that person "hadn't been going
so fast line"!!!
Do.....nope, I'll refrain.
Dave
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 13:49:58 EDT
Subject: Austin-Healey vs Austin Healey
Perhaps I should have phrased my question: WHY did they do this? Most
likely a mistake by a supplier and they just didn't want to waste the money,
but it is quite a thing to change the name's offical spelling after so many
years.
Thanks for the comeback--Michael
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 14:00:54 EDT
Subject: Re: Austin-Healey vs Austin Healey
How's about some hair splitting?
Along the lines of Austin-Healey vs Austin Healey - or worse Austin Healy,
there are many misused Healey terms in the Healey community.
Among the biggest is the designation (used only by enthusiasts-huh...) 100/4,
100-4 and the like. That car is the Hundred, or 100.
The other biggie is the term 100/6 or 100-6. S/B 100-Six.
I know. I do it too. You can even see me using it wrong at my website. 'Not
judging, just makin' the observation. Admitting is the first step to a cure.
Rick
San Diego
In a message dated 9/22/00 10:52:55 AM, Awgertoo@aol.com writes:
<<
Perhaps I should have phrased my question: WHY did they do this? Most
likely a mistake by a supplier and they just didn't want to waste the money,
but it is quite a thing to change the name's offical spelling after so many
years.
Thanks for the comeback--Michael >>
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 11:42:12 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Austin-Healey vs Austin Healey
I've always preferred Austin-Healey with the dash since that's how the
marque name started out with a badge fixed to the bonnet of the 1952 London
Motor Show car. However, the "Austin-Healey script" as used on the sales
brochures did not include the dash, even in the early days. (Sorry if this
ground has already been covered; I missed the earlier parts of this
discussion.)
Anyway, later they dropped the dash, probably due to a mistake or oversight,
although it might have been a deliberate decision. I've never heard a
definite answer to this one.
There's nothing wrong with "100-6"; it appears in factory literature just as
"100-Six" does occasionally. "100/6" (with a stroke) would be wrong,
though.
100-4, 100/4 and, heaven forbid, 100-Four" are all incorrect though as that
car was, as you noted, named "100" (or "Hundred"; never "One Hundred") with
NO suffix.
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
http://www.healey.org
>
> How's about some hair splitting?
>
> Along the lines of Austin-Healey vs Austin Healey - or worse Austin
Healy,
> there are many misused Healey terms in the Healey community.
>
> Among the biggest is the designation (used only by enthusiasts-huh...)
100/4,
> 100-4 and the like. That car is the Hundred, or 100.
>
> The other biggie is the term 100/6 or 100-6. S/B 100-Six.
>
> I know. I do it too. You can even see me using it wrong at my website.
'Not
> judging, just makin' the observation. Admitting is the first step to a
cure.
>
> Rick
> San Diego
>
>
>
> In a message dated 9/22/00 10:52:55 AM, Awgertoo@aol.com writes:
>
> <<
> Perhaps I should have phrased my question: WHY did they do this? Most
> likely a mistake by a supplier and they just didn't want to waste the
money,
> but it is quite a thing to change the name's offical spelling after so
many
> years.
>
> Thanks for the comeback--Michael >>
>
_______________________________________________________
Say Bye to Slow Internet!
http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 15:12:21 -0400
Subject: [Fwd: Austin-Healey vs Austin Healey]
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--------------A8F5DCE17685DF2A5F99D6B5
--------------A8F5DCE17685DF2A5F99D6B5
Content-Disposition: inline
X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000
Message-ID: <39CBAEDF.A5D602DA@home.com>
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 15:11:27 -0400
From: Michael Salter <magicare@home.com>
X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en] (Win98; U)
X-Accept-Language: en
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: Reid Trummel <AHCUSA@excite.com>
Subject: Re: Austin-Healey vs Austin Healey
References: <24560386.969648132338.JavaMail.imail@swirly>
However all the handbooks have AUSTIN-HEALEY on the cover ;-)
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Reid Trummel wrote:
> I've always preferred Austin-Healey with the dash since that's how the
> marque name started out with a badge fixed to the bonnet of the 1952 London
> Motor Show car. However, the "Austin-Healey script" as used on the sales
> brochures did not include the dash, even in the early days. (Sorry if this
> ground has already been covered; I missed the earlier parts of this
> discussion.)
>
> Anyway, later they dropped the dash, probably due to a mistake or oversight,
> although it might have been a deliberate decision. I've never heard a
> definite answer to this one.
>
> There's nothing wrong with "100-6"; it appears in factory literature just as
> "100-Six" does occasionally. "100/6" (with a stroke) would be wrong,
> though.
>
> 100-4, 100/4 and, heaven forbid, 100-Four" are all incorrect though as that
> car was, as you noted, named "100" (or "Hundred"; never "One Hundred") with
> NO suffix.
>
> Cheers,
> Reid Trummel
> http://www.healey.org
>
> >
> > How's about some hair splitting?
> >
> > Along the lines of Austin-Healey vs Austin Healey - or worse Austin
> Healy,
> > there are many misused Healey terms in the Healey community.
> >
> > Among the biggest is the designation (used only by enthusiasts-huh...)
> 100/4,
> > 100-4 and the like. That car is the Hundred, or 100.
> >
> > The other biggie is the term 100/6 or 100-6. S/B 100-Six.
> >
> > I know. I do it too. You can even see me using it wrong at my website.
> 'Not
> > judging, just makin' the observation. Admitting is the first step to a
> cure.
> >
> > Rick
> > San Diego
> >
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 9/22/00 10:52:55 AM, Awgertoo@aol.com writes:
> >
> > <<
> > Perhaps I should have phrased my question: WHY did they do this? Most
> > likely a mistake by a supplier and they just didn't want to waste the
> money,
> > but it is quite a thing to change the name's offical spelling after so
> many
> > years.
> >
> > Thanks for the comeback--Michael >>
> >
>
> _______________________________________________________
> Say Bye to Slow Internet!
> http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html
--------------A8F5DCE17685DF2A5F99D6B5--
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 15:12:01 EDT
Subject: Re: Austin-Healey vs Austin Healey
In a message dated 9/22/00 2:04:53 PM Eastern Daylight Time, WilKo@aol.com
writes:
<< How's about some hair splitting along the lines of Austin-Healey vs
Austin Healey >>
Rick:
If you read my original post you would see that I asked how and
when the badge-name "Austin-Healey" became transformed into "Austin Healey".
If you think that is hair-splitting, so be it! I would just like an answer
if someone on the list knows. And given that the correct name for all
Austin-Healeys is hyphenated does it not make you wonder why all of the
later-series cars are incorrectly badged? Enquuiring minds wanna know!
Michael Oritt, BN1 (Austin-Healey)
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 12:29:50 -0700
Subject: looking for Richard Dryman
Is Richard Dryman on the list?
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 14:45:05 -0500
Subject: Re: FLASH --Tx Kooler first ever fall special --FLASH
hi don- no modifications required. the original fan has 4 bolts, you use the
same ones on the kooler. if your bn7 has the original waterpump, it may have a
bolt on pulley. you may have to remove the center bolt, install fan with the 4
bolts and then replace the center pulley bolt.
happy healeying,
jerry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Donald L. Yarber" <dyarber@dynasty.net>
To: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Subject: FLASH --Tx Kooler first ever fall special --FLASH
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 07:13:12 -0500
Jerry: Is there a modification needed to attach the Texas Cooler to a BN7
fan pulley?? I don't want to do a lot of modifying.
Don
BN7
From "Dr. C Rubino" <ruvino at recorder.ca>
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 16:50:07 -0400
Subject:
Thanks to Mike, Doug, Michael, Mr. Finespanner and Awgertoo for your
responses to my inquiry re oil drips.
Sometimes I forget the the big Healey is a brute and can take a lot of
whacking around so I often panick quickly and think the worst.
You have all provided me with peice of mind and things to do this Saturday.
Carl Rubino
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 17:19:11 EDT
Subject: Re: Austin-Healey vs Austin Healey
In a message dated 9/22/00 11:03:54 AM, WilKo@aol.com writes:
<< The other biggie is the term 100/6 or 100-6. S/B 100-Six. >>
That one IS open to some discussion, since it doesn't say
100-SIX on the insigniae on the car -- it says 100-6. (My editor at
Motorbooks checked on this when they were trying to do the title for our book
-- He says that they found "100-6" used in BMC literature as well as 100-Six,
though I couldn't say where off-hand at the moment.
However, if I'd be interested in hearing your basis for averring that it
should be ONLY 100-Six.
Cheers
Gary
From "Phil Nase" <pnase at enter.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 17:29:46 -0400
Subject: hazardous waste
We just tried to take 2 gallons of used antifreeze to our local Pep Boys for
disposal. They no longer accept it and they don't know of anyone who does.
Are other localities experiencing the same situation?
Phil
Quakertown, Pa
From Rohan Marr <rohan at marketocracy.com>
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 14:27:08 -0700
Subject: Re: FLASH --Tx Kooler first ever fall special --FLASH
I can highly recommend the fan. It made a BIG difference to my
overheating BN4 after I had already tried a more modern flex-style
fan. I must admit that I have a spacer to locate the fan closer to
the radiator, clear the fan belt and center the unit on the pulley.
Rohan.
At 2:45 PM -0500 9/22/00, Jerry Wall wrote:
>hi don- no modifications required. the original fan has 4 bolts,
>you use the same ones on the kooler. if your bn7 has the original
>waterpump, it may have a bolt on pulley. you may have to remove the
>center bolt, install fan with the 4 bolts and then replace the
>center pulley bolt.
>
>happy healeying,
>
>jerry
>----- Original Message -----
>
>From: "Donald L. Yarber" <dyarber@dynasty.net>
>To: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
>Subject: FLASH --Tx Kooler first ever fall special --FLASH
>Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 07:13:12 -0500
>
>Jerry: Is there a modification needed to attach the Texas Cooler to a BN7
>fan pulley?? I don't want to do a lot of modifying.
>
>Don
>BN7
>
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 18:39:34 EDT
Subject: 2 products
Hi group,
Recently I watched Speedvision at a friend's home and saw a couple of
infomercials that were very interesting.
The first was ZMAX, an oil, gas and transmission additive that seemed to do
amazing cleaning and lubing of the internal parts of the car.
The second one was a car polish that did not bead water on the finish; it
caused a sheeting and drying action that left the paint spotless.
Have any of you listers tried either of these products and do you have a
comment or two?
Thanks,
Rudy in NC
From "Ron Yates" <dipstickdigest at ctaz.com>
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 16:23:21 -0700
Subject: Re: Austin-Healey vs Austin Healey
Hi Guys
I'm going to stir the pot a little with my contribution.
I've been doing research for a book about the racing Healeys in
California circa 1953-1962.
In going through racing programs and race results, I've seen the cars listed
as many ways as possible, but very seldom saw the six cylinder car listed as
a 100 Six. In nearly all cases it was listed as a 100-6 and never with a
stroke (100/6). Sometimes it was listed as a 100, and if you didn't know the
car you wouldn't be able to tell the difference when it came to the
displacement column as the 100's and 100-6's raced in the same events.
In fairness to the SCCA and Cal Club they could only put into the
program what was on the entry sheet. So I think the drivers who raced the
early six cylinder cars had a fair idea of the nomenclature. Then a guy
brought his car from Sebring in '58 and that went in to the programs as a
100-6MM. That entry is a valid one as well (that thread went around about a
year and a half ago).
There were exceptions to the rule of course. There was one driver who
kept listing his 100S as an A-90! He knew better, but he was trying to yank
a chain here and there. He also had a pair of headlight covers that very
closely resembled part(s) of the female torsoand were painted accordingly.
Quite out of place in todays politically correct, sterile racing world.
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <WilKo@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 22, 2000 2:19 PM
Subject: Re: Austin-Healey vs Austin Healey
>
>
> In a message dated 9/22/00 11:03:54 AM, WilKo@aol.com writes:
>
> << The other biggie is the term 100/6 or 100-6. S/B 100-Six. >>
>
> That one IS open to some discussion, since it doesn't say
> 100-SIX on the insigniae on the car -- it says 100-6. (My editor at
> Motorbooks checked on this when they were trying to do the title for our
book
> -- He says that they found "100-6" used in BMC literature as well as
100-Six,
> though I couldn't say where off-hand at the moment.
> However, if I'd be interested in hearing your basis for averring that it
> should be ONLY 100-Six.
>
> Cheers
> Gary
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 19:30:49 EDT
Subject: Re: Austin-Healey vs Austin Healey
In a message dated 09/22/2000 4:25:28 PM Central Daylight Time,
Editorgary@aol.com writes:
<<
That one IS open to some discussion, since it doesn't say
100-SIX on the insigniae on the car -- it says 100-6. (My editor at
Motorbooks checked on this when they were trying to do the title for our
book
-- He says that they found "100-6" used in BMC literature as well as
100-Six,
though I couldn't say where off-hand at the moment.
However, if I'd be interested in hearing your basis for averring that it
should be ONLY 100-Six.
>>
Well, Gary, I don't have orgs handy much less magnifying glass but maybe this
will assist.
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=123055&a=901962&p=13187051
Cheers...........
Ed
From "RL Chrysler" <lchrysl at fhs.csu.McMaster.CA>
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 21:06:51 -0400
Subject: Hundred Parts Needed
Hello all,
I am in need of a good heater core and a pair of horns for a BN2. My heater
core is irrepairably rotted. I know new ones are now available, but I'd
prefer an original if possible.
The horns (hi and lo note) were the same parts from the beginning of the
Hundred through to the introduction of the 3000 Mk2.
Can anyone help?
Rich Chrysler
From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 22:47:52 -0400
Subject: Hundred Parts Needed
Ron, there are still plenty of nuts in racing today- not being used
as fasteners.
Alain Giguere BN7
soon to be 40-4 or 40/four
From David Neale <dneale at pacbell.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 20:11:34 -0700
Subject: Re: Oil Sump
I am looking for an oil sump for a 6 cylinder engine rebuild for my BN7.
Does anyone have one, in good condition, taking up valuable space in your
garage that could use a good home??
Thank you all.
DAVID NEALE
BN7
BJ8
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 23:39:59 EDT
Subject: 100-Six name (long. Full of facts)
On the subject of the 100-Six name (as opposed to 100-6 or other variants)
I have just done some research of my rather extensive library of Healey
materials.
To qualify my findings I should mention that I am a senior graphic designer
with a major software company and work quite a bit on branding issues and
legal wranglings related to trademark and copyright law applications.
In such cases there is most commonly only one acceptable name per brand and
that (to be protected as such) must be maintained consistently whenever
applied.
Also, the logo and the name are two separate items and are to be protected
and required to be used as such. Example Coca-Cola is the "name" the cool
looking swirly letters are the "logo" You wouldn't be expected to read a
paragraph about Coca-Cola and suddenly run into those swirly letters. (yes, I
realize that 100-6 can be easily typed, that's not the point. One could also
argue that using a script font would look like the Coke logo. yeah, right)
In the case of 100-SIX here's what I've found:
The BMC materials (for public uses) that I have all have the name printed
(when used in text, not as a "logo" like the "flash" using 100-6) as 100-Six
starting from the introductory brochure (1405/E)
BMC are also careful to use quote marks around the car name.
The early 3000 brochure calls the 3000 the successor to the "Austin Healey
(no hyphen) 100-Six". BMC pub 1124 E/C
Owner's Handbook #97H 996J uses "100-Six"
AKD 931 (BN6 supplement) only has the flash logo and makes no use of the
name.
The flash is "logo" and not text and should not be used as text.
AKD 947 (Blue covered hard bound owner's Handbook-BN6) uses 100-Six as well.
>From the standpoint of legal usage precedent (which contributes to the
integrity of the brand) that is more than enough evidence to support the name
as officially being 100-Six and not 100-6.
Of books published later that write of the car the name "100-Six" is used
exclusively by the following:
Browning/Needham Healeys and Austin-Healeys
Clausager Original Austin-Healey
Healey My World of Cars
Browning The Works Big Healeys
Healey Austin Healey The Story of the Big Healeys
Healey The Healey Story
Robson Austin-Healey 100 &3000 Series
McLavin/Tipping Austin-Healey 100 & 3000
Heilig Austin-Healey 100 & 3000 (has an
instance of display type using 100-6)
The cheesy book by Wheatley, "Austin-Healey 100/6 & 3000 All the Big
6-cylinder Models" as you can see, uses 100/6
In the Gold Portfolio "Austin Healey 100 & 100/6" the Editors use 100/6 while
the period literature (not BMC) use mostly 100-six. Keep in mind that these
are independent magazine publishers.
That's why I would say that 100-Six is the only correct name for that car.
Rick
San Diego
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 00:14:25 -0500
Subject: Re: 100-Six name (long. Full of facts)
...................as further proof, my TX license tags read 100-SIX !!
----- Original Message -----
From: WilKo@aol.com
Subject: 100-Six name (long. Full of facts)
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 23:39:59 EDT
On the subject of the 100-Six name (as opposed to 100-6 or other variants)
I have just done some research of my rather extensive library of Healey
materials.
To qualify my findings I should mention that I am a senior graphic designer
with a major software company and work quite a bit on branding issues and
legal wranglings related to trademark and copyright law applications.
In such cases there is most commonly only one acceptable name per brand and
that (to be protected as such) must be maintained consistently whenever
applied.
Also, the logo and the name are two separate items and are to be protected
and required to be used as such. Example Coca-Cola is the "name" the cool
looking swirly letters are the "logo" You wouldn't be expected to read a
paragraph about Coca-Cola and suddenly run into those swirly letters. (yes, I
realize that 100-6 can be easily typed, that's not the point. One could also
argue that using a script font would look like the Coke logo. yeah, right)
In the case of 100-SIX here's what I've found:
The BMC materials (for public uses) that I have all have the name printed
(when used in text, not as a "logo" like the "flash" using 100-6) as 100-Six
starting from the introductory brochure (1405/E)
BMC are also careful to use quote marks around the car name.
The early 3000 brochure calls the 3000 the successor to the "Austin Healey
(no hyphen) 100-Six". BMC pub 1124 E/C
Owner's Handbook #97H 996J uses "100-Six"
AKD 931 (BN6 supplement) only has the flash logo and makes no use of the
name.
The flash is "logo" and not text and should not be used as text.
AKD 947 (Blue covered hard bound owner's Handbook-BN6) uses 100-Six as well.
>From the standpoint of legal usage precedent (which contributes to the
integrity of the brand) that is more than enough evidence to support the name
as officially being 100-Six and not 100-6.
Of books published later that write of the car the name "100-Six" is used
exclusively by the following:
Browning/Needham Healeys and Austin-Healeys
Clausager Original Austin-Healey
Healey My World of Cars
Browning The Works Big Healeys
Healey Austin Healey The Story of the Big Healeys
Healey The Healey Story
Robson Austin-Healey 100 &3000 Series
McLavin/Tipping Austin-Healey 100 & 3000
Heilig Austin-Healey 100 & 3000 (has an
instance of display type using 100-6)
The cheesy book by Wheatley, "Austin-Healey 100/6 & 3000 All the Big
6-cylinder Models" as you can see, uses 100/6
In the Gold Portfolio "Austin Healey 100 & 100/6" the Editors use 100/6 while
the period literature (not BMC) use mostly 100-six. Keep in mind that these
are independent magazine publishers.
That's why I would say that 100-Six is the only correct name for that car.
Rick
San Diego
From "Lance Werner" <brshwrks at bellatlantic.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 07:40:07 -0400
Subject: Book
Hi all:
Does anyone know where I can find a copy of Austin-Healey Guide by Donald
Healey and Tommy Wisdom. I believe the title is correct and I know for sure
the authors are right. Thanks
lance
54 bn1
From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 08:56:31 EDT
Subject: Re: hazardous waste
In a message dated 09/22/2000 5:29:46 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
pnase@enter.net writes:
<< We just tried to take 2 gallons of used antifreeze to our local Pep Boys
for
disposal. They no longer accept it and they don't know of anyone who does.
Are other localities experiencing the same situation? >>
Yup,
This is a common problem everywhere it seems. I have never had a
satisfactory solution to anti-freeze disposal.
I usually use my old anti-freeze to kill grass where I don't want grass.
Wait for a dry day to do this as if you do it on a rainy day it can get
washed into streams and such.
I have also heard that you should dump it into the sanitary sewer. I don't
know if this is right, but glycol is bio-degradable, and the bugs at the
local WTP probably can handle this.
DO NOT dump it into the storm sewer.
I'd be curious to find out what the right answer is.
Tim Wallace
'67 BJ8
Fuquay-Varina, NC
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 10:11:14 -0400
Subject: Re: 2 products
It is my experience that if there was something good to add to oil, then
competition would force the manufacturers to put it in themselves. Check
out the American Petroleum Institute website for info on engine oils.
This brings to mind an old saying I got from the Diesel Doctor - "There is
nothing in a can that can fix a sick engine!"
Lee
'62 BT7 Tri-carb
> Recently I watched Speedvision at a friend's home and saw a couple of
> infomercials that were very interesting.
> The first was ZMAX, an oil, gas and transmission additive that seemed to
do
> amazing cleaning and lubing of the internal parts of the car.
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 10:24:57 -0400
Subject: Re: hazardous waste
Most of the marinas in Maryland have state-supported recycle tanks. These
usually have a tank for oil and a tank for anti-freeze.
Lee
'62 BT7 Tri-carb
----- Original Message -----
From: <Healybj8@aol.com>
To: <pnase@enter.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 23, 2000 8:56 AM
Subject: Re: hazardous waste
>
> In a message dated 09/22/2000 5:29:46 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> pnase@enter.net writes:
>
> << We just tried to take 2 gallons of used antifreeze to our local Pep
Boys
> for
> disposal. They no longer accept it and they don't know of anyone who
does.
> Are other localities experiencing the same situation? >>
>
> Yup,
>
> This is a common problem everywhere it seems. I have never had a
> satisfactory solution to anti-freeze disposal.
>
> I usually use my old anti-freeze to kill grass where I don't want grass.
> Wait for a dry day to do this as if you do it on a rainy day it can get
> washed into streams and such.
>
> I have also heard that you should dump it into the sanitary sewer. I
don't
> know if this is right, but glycol is bio-degradable, and the bugs at the
> local WTP probably can handle this.
>
> DO NOT dump it into the storm sewer.
>
> I'd be curious to find out what the right answer is.
>
> Tim Wallace
> '67 BJ8
> Fuquay-Varina, NC
From dwflagg at juno.com
Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2000 10:26:11 -0400
Subject: Re:6 Cylinder Bumpers
A friend has a complete set of bumpers with overriders for the 6 cylinder
Healeys. These are straight with no dents and some surface rust. A little
cleaning and you would have a right nice set to put on your car. If
interested please contact me off the list. Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 07:55:30 -0700
Subject: Re: "average"
If you learned how to do these manuvers by getting involved in situations on
the road perhaps you should consider another means of transportation. By the
way could you let me know when you're driving so I can stay home?
RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Masucci, Dave" <dmasucci@pinpointco.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2000 9:02 AM
Subject: RE: "average"
>
> You see Ray...fundamental difference. You find that unsafe. I find other's
> inability to practice and control a car in such situations unsafe.
> Unpredictable situations happen. You may find yourself in a situation that
> to avoid a collision...all of sudden you're in a skid. Do you then
consider
> yourself out of control? What if then there's another hard immovable
object
> that you're about to "drift" into? I know how to handle many of those
> situations. And please don't tell me that if that person "hadn't been
going
> so fast line"!!!
>
> Do.....nope, I'll refrain.
>
>
> Dave
>
From Bill Pollock <wjpollock at erols.com>
Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 11:04:28 -0400
Subject: Re: hazardous waste
Yes. In our little town here in Ct we now have only 1 full service station who
might take. Our town runs a waste oil disposal tank,but not antifreeze. Use to
have a locally owned parts store who took it for several years,be they went out
of business. We have three supermarket type parts stores now,including a Pep
Boys which is the worse of the three in teams of help and my opinion quality of
goods. Nne of them of course want to know about safe disposal of waste
products.
Bill Pollock
Phil Nase wrote:
> We just tried to take 2 gallons of used antifreeze to our local Pep Boys for
> disposal. They no longer accept it and they don't know of anyone who does.
> Are other localities experiencing the same situation?
>
> Phil
> Quakertown, Pa
From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 08:14:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: 100-Six name (long. Full of facts)
Jerry
I suggest you check out Derek Job's site at
http://members.home.net/djob/ This site focuses on the 100-6 only and
Derek has done a fantastic job in setting it up in a most professional
manner. Enjoy.
Scott Morris; '62 BT7
--- Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net> wrote:
>
> ...................as further proof, my TX license tags read 100-SIX
> !!
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: WilKo@aol.com
> Subject: 100-Six name (long. Full of facts)
> Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 23:39:59 EDT
>
>
> On the subject of the 100-Six name (as opposed to 100-6 or other
> variants)
> I have just done some research of my rather extensive library of
> Healey
> materials. .........
=====
J. Scott Morris
Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
__________________________________________________
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com/
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at slip.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 08:37:46 -0700
Subject: Re: 2 products
Check out:
www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-additives.html
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@slip.net (home)
San Jose, CA. bspidell@teknema.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs@ix.netcom.com>
To: <CAWS52803@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>; <british-cars@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 23, 2000 7:11 AM
Subject: Re: 2 products
>
> It is my experience that if there was something good to add to oil, then
> competition would force the manufacturers to put it in themselves. Check
> out the American Petroleum Institute website for info on engine oils.
>
> This brings to mind an old saying I got from the Diesel Doctor - "There is
> nothing in a can that can fix a sick engine!"
>
> Lee
> '62 BT7 Tri-carb
>
>
> > Recently I watched Speedvision at a friend's home and saw a couple of
> > infomercials that were very interesting.
> > The first was ZMAX, an oil, gas and transmission additive that seemed to
> do
> > amazing cleaning and lubing of the internal parts of the car.
>
>
>
From Joseph Elmer <Joelmer at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 13:00:29 -0400
Subject: hood hinges
Anybody looking to sell a set of hood hinges and hinge brackets for a
100-4?
From "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 10:29:13 -0700
Subject: Re: hazardous waste
Try the local radiator repair shop. They would need a disposal
service themselves and may take the antifreeze for a small fee.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Pollock <wjpollock@erols.com>
To: Phil Nase <pnase@enter.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 23, 2000 8:04 AM
Subject: Re: hazardous waste
>
> Yes. In our little town here in Ct we now have only 1 full service
station who
> might take. Our town runs a waste oil disposal tank,but not
antifreeze. Use to
> have a locally owned parts store who took it for several years,be
they went out
> of business. We have three supermarket type parts stores
now,including a Pep
> Boys which is the worse of the three in teams of help and my opinion
quality of
> goods. Nne of them of course want to know about safe disposal of
waste
> products.
>
> Bill Pollock
>
> Phil Nase wrote:
>
> > We just tried to take 2 gallons of used antifreeze to our local
Pep Boys for
> > disposal. They no longer accept it and they don't know of anyone
who does.
> > Are other localities experiencing the same situation?
> >
> > Phil
> > Quakertown, Pa
>
>
>
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 14:58:05 EDT
Subject: Re: Austin-Healey vs Austin Healey
In a message dated 9/22/00 11:46:09 AM, AHCUSA@excite.com writes:
<< There's nothing wrong with "100-6"; it appears in factory literature just
as
"100-Six" does occasionally. "100/6" (with a stroke) would be wrong,
though. >>
Okay, folks. Wilko suggested I go look up the term in Geoff Healey's books,
so I went to his first book Austin-Healey The Story of the Big Healey. I
also checked the German publication that shows a pretty extensive set of
factory marketing literature. I think these are dependable sources because
Geoff wrote the book to "set the record straight" and, of course, he was
still involved in decisions when this model name would have been selected.
The marketing literature is what I think should be relied on for brand names
and model terms, since the marketing folks were the ones who had the
authority to invent and promulgate these terms.
Bottom line, we're all at least a little wrong. Based on the standard
marketing brochure, issued when the car was introduced, (shown in
<<Schrader-Motor-Chronik Austin Healey>> page 31 and used throughout Geoff
Healey's book)
The proper name for the first model Healey with a six-cylinder engine is...
Austin Healey 100 Six
Note that the S is capitalized and there are no hyphens. I'm making note of
that and will hereby launch a pedantry campaign to insist that everyone use
this term properly.
Just as a side note, on page 34 of the same book, showing the first brochure
for the 3000, the car is introduced as ' The incomparable Austin-Healey
"3000" ' Note the inclusion of the hyphen.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 15:30:56 EDT
Subject: Re: hazardous waste
In a message dated 9/23/00 7:18:21 AM, lmairs@ix.netcom.com writes:
<<
Most of the marinas in Maryland have state-supported recycle tanks. These
usually have a tank for oil and a tank for anti-freeze.
Lee
'62 BT7 Tri-carb >>
Paul Kile, one of our technical advisors and the environmental safety officer
for a major manufacturing company in Sacramental, wrote an article on auto
maintenance and the environment for us in our August-September issue this
year. His advice was, first, remember that ethylene glycol is the most
poisonous substance you work with around your car and is deadly to pets and
extremely dangerous-to-deadly to small children, so use it with care, keep it
protected, and clean up any spills immediately. For disposal, he says that if
you're on an urban sewer system, it is safe for you to pour it into the sink
or toilet -- urban treatment systems can easily handle dilute Eth. glycol. --
but do not do that if you're on a septic system, and don't pour it into the
street drain system or into the ground. Many local areas have hazmat
disposal facilities, so call your local trash collection agency to find out
what is available and recommended for your area. He also notes that there
are new substances that are much safer to use and dispose of, so look for
those products when you do your next radiator flush.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
editor, British Car Magazine
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 15:27:55 -0500
Subject: Re: hazardous waste
Hi Gary
Paul is absolutely correct. If one looks at food chain models for example
the potential damage is staggering - we tend to factor in only what counts
to us "ourselves, our pets, our loved ones and lovers" while excluding all
those other and most times vital components, seen and unseen, in the
environment.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 9/23/00 7:18:21 AM, lmairs@ix.netcom.com writes:
>
> <<
> Most of the marinas in Maryland have state-supported recycle tanks. These
> usually have a tank for oil and a tank for anti-freeze.
> Lee
> '62 BT7 Tri-carb >>
>
> Paul Kile, one of our technical advisors and the environmental safety officer
> for a major manufacturing company in Sacramental, wrote an article on auto
> maintenance and the environment for us in our August-September issue this
> year. His advice was, first, remember that ethylene glycol is the most
> poisonous substance you work with around your car and is deadly to pets and
> extremely dangerous-to-deadly to small children, so use it with care, keep it
> protected, and clean up any spills immediately. For disposal, he says that if
> you're on an urban sewer system, it is safe for you to pour it into the sink
> or toilet -- urban treatment systems can easily handle dilute Eth. glycol. --
> but do not do that if you're on a septic system, and don't pour it into the
> street drain system or into the ground. Many local areas have hazmat
> disposal facilities, so call your local trash collection agency to find out
> what is available and recommended for your area. He also notes that there
> are new substances that are much safer to use and dispose of, so look for
> those products when you do your next radiator flush.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
> editor, British Car Magazine
From "Tim W" <twicentowich at home.com>
Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 18:47:51 -0700
Subject: engine numbers
I am hoping that someone can help to identify the two engines (removed from
healeys) which I have. They are both 6 cylinders and have the 6 port heads.
The numbers do not seem to match anything in the reference manuals. The
numbers are HR122 18894 and 29/NO/H15053. I have been told that perhaps one
is a Wolsley engine with a healey head?
Thanks in advance for any help.
Tim
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2000 12:18:33 EDT
Subject: Re: Hundred Parts Needed
Rich , i have horns in varios condiyions and oe heater cores available
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>Br
itishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2000 14:47:17 EDT
Subject: Re: 100-Six name (long. Full of facts)
In a message dated 9/22/00 8:42:30 PM Pacific Daylight Time, WilKo@aol.com
writes:
<<
That's why I would say that 100-Six is the only correct name for that car.
Rick
San Diego >>
BMC WORKSHOP MANUAL (AKD 1179H) for the Austin-Healey '100-SIX and '3000'
also only uses 100-Six in text. It uses a hyphen in Austin-Healey.
John
100- Six Erika the Red
From D Job <djob at home.com>
Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2000 14:50:09 -0400
Subject: 100-Six etc...
Both Rick and Gary provide excellant summaries of the situation. Just to
add my 2c worth I notice that an original sales brochure published by
the Austin Motor Company uses 100 Six throughout, similarly an ad for
the new six port car featuring John Bolster also uses 100 Six. The ad is
also published by the Austin Motor Company. Both these are 1958
documents, (I don'have a 1956 brochure maybe someone can look one out).
Other ads put out by dealers such as Hambro of New York use 100-Six and
100-SIX but not 100 Six. The official Austin Motor Company owner's
handbook, which one would think would be definitive, uses 100-SIX and
100-Six, the capitalised version is used in the titles and the lower
case version is used in the text. So the Austin Motor Company itself
used 100 Six, 100-SIX and 100-Six!!!!! I don't think its going to
possible to pin down the "right" version. My preference is 100-Six. I
think we can all agree its not 100-6 or 100/6.
cheers Derek 58 BN4 "MM" (...and thats another story)
100-Six web site
http://members.home.net/djob
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2000 17:20:19 -0400
Subject: BJ8 drive train available
Hello, Healeyphiles -
I have been contacted by the owner of a BJ8 that has been a "Nasty Boy"
since 1979. It has a Nissan 280Z engine. The owner says he still has the
original engine, gearbox, and overdrive if anyone is interested in them. If
so, contact me and I'll put you in touch.
Steve Byers
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2000 17:46:07 -0400
Subject: BJ8 drive train...I forgot
The BJ8 drive train that is available is located in Evergreen, Colorado USA
Steve Byers
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
From "Masucci, Dave" <dmasucci at pinpointco.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 08:01:52 -0400
Subject: RE: "average"
Okay Mr. Feehan...now the bashing and insults start huh? Now you're
struggling to create situations that I never spoke of "getting involved in
situations".
You are what you are sir...I won't insult you. You just did that quite
nicely all by yourself.
Dave
BJ8
TR4A
David R. Masucci
Senior RF Engineer
PinPoint Corporation
One Fortune Drive - Billerica, MA 01821
phone: (978) 901-0028 ext: 363
fax: (978) 901-0050
email: dave.masucci@pinpointco.com
http://www.pinpointco.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Ray Feehan [mailto:feehanr@cadvision.com]
Sent: Saturday, September 23, 2000 10:56 AM
To: Masucci, Dave; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: "average"
If you learned how to do these manuvers by getting involved in situations on
the road perhaps you should consider another means of transportation. By the
way could you let me know when you're driving so I can stay home?
RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Masucci, Dave" <dmasucci@pinpointco.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2000 9:02 AM
Subject: RE: "average"
>
> You see Ray...fundamental difference. You find that unsafe. I find other's
> inability to practice and control a car in such situations unsafe.
> Unpredictable situations happen. You may find yourself in a situation that
> to avoid a collision...all of sudden you're in a skid. Do you then
consider
> yourself out of control? What if then there's another hard immovable
object
> that you're about to "drift" into? I know how to handle many of those
> situations. And please don't tell me that if that person "hadn't been
going
> so fast line"!!!
>
> Do.....nope, I'll refrain.
>
>
> Dave
>
From "Masucci, Dave" <dmasucci at pinpointco.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 08:07:12 -0400
Subject: FW: "average"
I won't insult you Ray ...but if you're going to start bashing people with
differing opinions, let all see it! Why can't you discuss something so
relevant to CARS and DRIVING without insults?????????
Dave
If you drove next to me you'd have to be driving the posted speed limit.
Obviously not something you do. The majority rules.
Rayfixitanddriveitfeehan.
From "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virginnet.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 16:59:10 +0100
Subject: Choke cable trivia
I don't know what the repro choke cables are like
elsewhere, but the one on offer in the UK are pretty
naff. The knobs are slightly large and the "C" is
too large (much) and is a transfer, not inset as per
original. None of this is important, but these little
things can niggle??
My choke cable had been borderline for some time, hence
the search. It finally broke last Saturday afternoon. As
the car only requires choke to start and for +/- 10 seconds
thereafter, I was able to use my wife as an alternate.
However, she'd never fit in the engine compartment so I
had to look for a solution.
The cable had broken right at the end of the portion that
goes through the dash.
I could\can not determine if the rod is originally round
and crimped after the cable is put in or if it is soldered in.
No matter...I was able to:
drill out the first .5inch of the rod
put knob in mole wrench (heat sink)
put wrench in vice
solder the cable in using plumbing flux, solder and a small blow lamp.
Once the solder had been filed dowm, I'd challenge anyone to detect
the mend.
I suppose that "Tippex" is a universally used product?
(It's the stuff that you use over typos once you've gone to print).
If you clean the knob off thoroughly with a degreasing agent and
then paint over the area of the "C" or "S" or whatever, you can remove
the surplus with the edge of a blunt(ish) knife. The "C" will remain
in pristine white and give a very decent result. I've tried this
before with paint and not been happy with the result.
Hope this works for someone.
Simon.
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 10:09:01 -0600
Subject: Roadrunner 1000
Well, what a treat. Spent most of Sat. chasing through the northren
mountains of New Mexico with Phil Coomb's and his newly aquired 100S. What a
wonderful hairy chested car DMH had spawned. I had no idea that the 100
engine could spin up to 6000RPM with such a long stroke. I suspect that
pieces of my plain jane 100 engine would have been in Colorado if I tried
that with mine. The S is really a nice purpose built automobile. It just
looks right. In fact the judges at the Sun. show agreed and gave Phil two
awards for it. One of which was the prize for the car that the judges would
most like to take home with them. I'd concur.
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{) 54 BN1
Click below for webpage and mopeds:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
From jclose at sduhsd.k12.ca.us
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 10:39:37 -0800
Subject: Door -Scuttle Seals
Hello Listers - I'm having difficulty installing these. Those copper split
rivets are not my best friends in the world just now; it's difficult to position
the seals and get the rivets in. I'd appreciate any tricks or techniques you
could send my way. JohnC, BN6
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 09:30:08 -0700
Subject: Re: FW: "average"
ENOUGH!! Who the F**K cares about this crap? Take it off-line, all of you.
-------------------------------------
At 05:07 AM 9/25/00 , you wrote:
>I won't insult you Ray ...but if you're going to start bashing people with
>differing opinions, let all see it! Why can't you discuss something so
>relevant to CARS and DRIVING without insults?????????
>
>Dave
>
>
>If you drove next to me you'd have to be driving the posted speed limit.
>Obviously not something you do. The majority rules.
>Rayfixitanddriveitfeehan.
From Rohan Marr <rohan at marketocracy.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 10:07:58 -0700
Subject: Thanks to those who stopped!!
Hi All,
Well my first trip up here in sunny Northern Cal was an adventure. I
just want to thank those (you know who you are) who kindly stopped
when they saw my silver 100 SIX (everyone happy with that) with the
bonnet up on the side of the road.
I have ridden and raced motorcycles my whole life and have also
noticed in that community that there a few unspoken rules and one is
if you see someone broken down you pull over and see if they are OK.
I am gad to say that there are those in the Healey community who have
the same ethics.
It is all about Karma.
Thanks
Rohan
BN4 (RHD, TriCarb
PS Just to throw another log on the fire of the naming of Healeys ...
my grille has the dash [-] between Austin and Healey as more of a
tilde as in Austin~Healey.
From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 10:19:11 -0700
Subject: Woodley park and Car events in General.
Well, I had a great drive down to Woodley park in the BN7 yesterday, though
she looked a bit scruffy at the end of all that shiny paint and chrome. She
is making progress though. She sounded great, lots of power and never ran
hot, though I wish I could say the same thing about the driver!
Anyway, I got into a discussion with some friends about car events and the
activities that we have at them. I know that for many people these events
are great ways of looking at cars and judging (informally or not) the
originality of the cars etc. Though I seemed to talk to a number of people
who were disappointed that there were not many non club specific events that
emphasized driving the cars; tours and autocrosses and stuff.. I'm curious
what people would like to see at these events. What kinds of activities do
you want to do? What do other events do that you like and don't like? Moss
used to put on a great event in Buelton that had a nice mix and I am trying
to get them to do it again. I would be interested to hear what people like.
Jonathan Lane
'60 BN7
From JMcD206 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 13:48:04 EDT
Subject: Side Curtain Repair
Hi,
The Side Curtains that I got with my BN4 are in pretty bad shape. The frames
have been painted and need to be stripped and refinished. The question is how
do you remove the plexiglass? Do you bend it enough to get out of the channel?
It does not look like the frame itself opens any where. The plexiglass is in
pretty good shape. Besides soap and water what do you clean that stuff with?
Thanks,
Jim McDermott
1957 100-Six BN4
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 11:03:12 -0700
Subject: Re: FW: "average"
Well put Bill, but could you say it in fewer words!!
Terry Blubaugh
Bill Katz wrote:
> ENOUGH!! Who the F**K cares about this crap? Take it off-line, all of you.
>
> -------------------------------------
> At 05:07 AM 9/25/00 , you wrote:
>
> >I won't insult you Ray ...but if you're going to start bashing people with
> >differing opinions, let all see it! Why can't you discuss something so
> >relevant to CARS and DRIVING without insults?????????
> >
> >Dave
> >
> >
> >If you drove next to me you'd have to be driving the posted speed limit.
> >Obviously not something you do. The majority rules.
> >Rayfixitanddriveitfeehan.
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 14:27:08 EDT
Subject: Re: Choke cable trivia
In a message dated 9/25/00 9:09:22 AM, simon.lachlan@virginnet.co.uk writes:
<< I suppose that "Tippex" is a universally used product?
(It's the stuff that you use over typos once you've gone to print).
If you clean the knob off thoroughly with a degreasing agent and
then paint over the area of the "C" or "S" or whatever, you can remove
the surplus with the edge of a blunt(ish) knife. The "C" will remain
in pristine white and give a very decent result. >>
The U.S. product is called "Wite-out" (How do you know a blonde has been
using your computer? From the Wite-out on the screen.") Sounds like it would
work well on the shift-pattern on shift knobs, as well.
Incidentally, your use of Naff led me to look it up in my new "British
English from A to Zed." dictionary. Found it right off (means cheap or
tatty), and also learned that it can be used as a euphemism for the f-word
(or the b-word in Brit) before the word "off" and that it relates to another
slang term, "Naafi," used for "canteen" (which in turn is Brit for snack bar)
since the Navy, Army, and Air Force Institute ran the canteens during World
War II.
Learning a new term makes a Monday worth getting up for.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Editor, British Car Magazine
From "Masucci, Dave" <dmasucci at pinpointco.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 14:35:11 -0400
Subject: Tire mounting/balancing
does anyone know a good tire shop in eastern Massachusetts area? I need
mounting and balancing for my Healey wire wheels. I need a place that won't
be annoyed that I didn't buy my tires from them.
Thanks!
Dave
BJ8
TR4A
David R. Masucci
Senior RF Engineer
PinPoint Corporation
One Fortune Drive - Billerica, MA 01821
phone: (978) 901-0028 ext: 363
fax: (978) 901-0050
email: dave.masucci@pinpointco.com
http://www.pinpointco.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of JMcD206@aol.com
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2000 1:48 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Side Curtain Repair
Hi,
The Side Curtains that I got with my BN4 are in pretty bad shape. The
frames have been painted and need to be stripped and refinished. The
question is how do you remove the plexiglass? Do you bend it enough to get
out of the channel? It does not look like the frame itself opens any where.
The plexiglass is in pretty good shape. Besides soap and water what do you
clean that stuff with?
Thanks,
Jim McDermott
1957 100-Six BN4
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 14:59:44 EDT
Subject: Re: Woodley park and Car events. Long Response
In a message dated 9/25/00 10:24:28 AM, lanej@mossmotors.com writes:
<< Though I seemed to talk to a number of people
who were disappointed that there were not many non club specific events that
emphasized driving the cars; tours and autocrosses and stuff.. I'm curious
what people would like to see at these events. What kinds of activities do
you want to do? What do other events do that you like and don't like? Moss
used to put on a great event in Buelton that had a nice mix and I am trying
to get them to do it again. I would be interested to hear what people like.
>>
It has been a long time since there were good multi-event weekends in a lot
of regions. We attended the Portland All-British Field Meet over Labor Day,
which had six hundred cars for the car show on Saturday. They have a complete
weekend event. It takes place at Portland Int'l Raceway, with several
inexpensive hotels just across the interstate from it. Activities started
with registration on Friday night and a coldcuts buffet supper included in
the registration fee, then the popular choice show on Saturday followed by a
barbq and awards Saturday night. Sunday morning the field had been converted
into a swap meet, while a casual rally took off for the countryside and an
autocross was held on a portion of the track. Really great event.
Buellton was nice and its absence leaves a large hole in the California
calendar. We used to be able to go to the NorCal Sports Car Olympics until
sports cars got redefined by them to be rice-rockets for autocross and modern
sedans for rallying.
Our magazine sponsored a British Car tour the day before the Palo Alto
British Car Day as we've done for three years now, and had over 75 cars out
for the 100 mile tour.
What's great about all these is the variety of cars that participate, from
scruffy Spitfires to pristine Astons. On our event a number of people missed
lunch because they never came in from the parking lot after the tour.
Anything to get more of these multi-marque driving events back on the calendar
would be appreciated.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 15:01:55 EDT
Subject: Re: Side Curtain Repair
In a message dated 9/25/00 10:51:05 AM, JMcD206@aol.com writes:
<< Hi,
The Side Curtains that I got with my BN4 are in pretty bad shape. The frames
have been painted and need to be stripped and refinished. The question is
how do you remove the plexiglass? Do you bend it enough to get out of the
channel? It does not look like the frame itself opens any where. The
plexiglass is in pretty good shape. Besides soap and water what do you clean
that stuff with? >>
Just bend it out. Meguire's and Griot's both make good plastic polish to
remove light scratches from plexiglass. It is also pretty easy to get
replacements made, though you may have trouble putting on new slide knobs.
Replacement felt for the channels and rubber seals are pretty readily
available.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From "ray feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 13:23:48 -0600
Subject: Re: FW: "average"
Easy, he might take that as an insult! RayfixitanddrriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2000 12:03 PM
Subject: Re: FW: "average"
>
> Well put Bill, but could you say it in fewer words!!
>
> Terry Blubaugh
>
> Bill Katz wrote:
>
> > ENOUGH!! Who the F**K cares about this crap? Take it off-line, all of
you.
> >
> > -------------------------------------
> > At 05:07 AM 9/25/00 , you wrote:
> >
> > >I won't insult you Ray ...but if you're going to start bashing people
with
> > >differing opinions, let all see it! Why can't you discuss something so
> > >relevant to CARS and DRIVING without insults?????????
> > >
> > >Dave
> > >
> > >
> > >If you drove next to me you'd have to be driving the posted speed
limit.
> > >Obviously not something you do. The majority rules.
> > >Rayfixitanddriveitfeehan.
>
>
From "Masucci, Dave" <dmasucci at pinpointco.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 15:30:30 -0400
Subject: RE: FW: "average"
You guys (some of you) are a bunch of cranky little buttholes for
crying-out-loud! I tried to bring up a discussion. I get bashed by one child
and now I get foul language from another.
Excuse me...I thought this was about the love of cars and driving. I thought
we could have intelligent DISCUSSIONS that are relevant to what this is (or
should be) all about. Instead Mr. Feehan bashes anyone with differing
opinions, and Bill gets angry and let's his foul mouth spew. And TERRY
APPLAUDS IT! Now I know why I usually don't read this stuff...and why I
respond and get involved even less.
My father drove Healeys for 40 years. He loved these cars....and so do I.
It's a passion....it's a hobby...it's part of life. Thank God he was never
exposed to this...he would have been disillusioned. To some...this is a
passion of love of the machinery and all that goes with it. I guess to
others...well......I won't go down there with you.
I'll make you happy Bill and Terry. Go back to repeating and rehashing the
same irrelevant information over and over...go back to bashing and calling
each other names....and I'll shut up and go back in my garage!
I'm disgusted,
Dave
David R. Masucci
Senior RF Engineer
PinPoint Corporation
One Fortune Drive - Billerica, MA 01821
phone: (978) 901-0028 ext: 363
fax: (978) 901-0050
email: dave.masucci@pinpointco.com
http://www.pinpointco.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Terry Blubaugh
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2000 2:03 PM
To: Bill Katz
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: FW: "average"
Well put Bill, but could you say it in fewer words!!
Terry Blubaugh
Bill Katz wrote:
> ENOUGH!! Who the F**K cares about this crap? Take it off-line, all of you.
>
> -------------------------------------
> At 05:07 AM 9/25/00 , you wrote:
>
> >I won't insult you Ray ...but if you're going to start bashing people
with
> >differing opinions, let all see it! Why can't you discuss something so
> >relevant to CARS and DRIVING without insults?????????
> >
> >Dave
> >
> >
> >If you drove next to me you'd have to be driving the posted speed limit.
> >Obviously not something you do. The majority rules.
> >Rayfixitanddriveitfeehan.
From "Edrick Adams" <je.adams at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 15:59:15 -0400
Subject: Re: Tire mounting/balancing
Just happen to have the spot for you! Wheel Repair Service of New England
317
Southbridge St
Auburn, MA
01501
(508)832-4949 ask for Fred (owner) or Scott
Good people that can balance and/or tune wire wheels.
Ed
-----Original Message-----
From: Masucci, Dave <dmasucci@pinpointco.com>
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, September 25, 2000 2:41 PM
Subject: Tire mounting/balancing
>
>does anyone know a good tire shop in eastern Massachusetts area? I need
>mounting and balancing for my Healey wire wheels. I need a place that won't
>be annoyed that I didn't buy my tires from them.
>
>Thanks!
>
>Dave
>
>BJ8
>TR4A
>
>
> David R. Masucci
> Senior RF Engineer
>
> PinPoint Corporation
> One Fortune Drive - Billerica, MA 01821
> phone: (978) 901-0028 ext: 363
> fax: (978) 901-0050
> email: dave.masucci@pinpointco.com
>
> http://www.pinpointco.com
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
>[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of JMcD206@aol.com
>Sent: Monday, September 25, 2000 1:48 PM
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Side Curtain Repair
>
>
>
>Hi,
>The Side Curtains that I got with my BN4 are in pretty bad shape. The
>frames have been painted and need to be stripped and refinished. The
>question is how do you remove the plexiglass? Do you bend it enough to get
>out of the channel? It does not look like the frame itself opens any
where.
>The plexiglass is in pretty good shape. Besides soap and water what do you
>clean that stuff with?
>
>Thanks,
>Jim McDermott
>1957 100-Six BN4
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 15:48:26 EDT
Subject: Re:Disgusted
In a message dated 9/25/00 12:32:53 PM, dmasucci@pinpointco.com writes:
<< I'm disgusted,
Dave >>
Dave -- Don't give up on the list just because it is a reflection of human
nature. I'm sure we're all involved in a number of personal and professional
organizations, both formal and informal. In my own experience, every one of
these organizations has a large number of people who are committed to the
overall goals of the organization and behave according to the norms of
etiquette prescribed by the organization. Unfortunately, organizations are
the means by which all of us satisfy a variety of different personal needs,
from amusement and education to ego gratification and stress reduction. in
addition, participants come to these organizations from a variety of
different backgrounds with differing understandings of what is acceptable
human interaction and what isn't. And all of us have some days when we
engage the clutch on our mouths without making sure our brain is in gear.
So I hope the contributers will continue to participate and the rest of you
will continue to monitor the list for useful information, and I'll continue
my own practice of reading with one finger poised over the delete key for use
when I encounter off-message or off-color responses. I trust others will
read my messages with the same finger ready.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From "Masucci, Dave" <dmasucci at pinpointco.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 16:07:39 -0400
Subject: RE: FW: "average"
As a matter of fact...Ray, Terry, and Bill, you all have a great day. You're
obviously all men of great stature!
Dave
David R. Masucci
Senior RF Engineer
PinPoint Corporation
One Fortune Drive - Billerica, MA 01821
phone: (978) 901-0028 ext: 363
fax: (978) 901-0050
email: dave.masucci@pinpointco.com
http://www.pinpointco.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of ray feehan
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2000 3:24 PM
To: Terry Blubaugh; Bill Katz
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: FW: "average"
Easy, he might take that as an insult! RayfixitanddrriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2000 12:03 PM
Subject: Re: FW: "average"
>
> Well put Bill, but could you say it in fewer words!!
>
> Terry Blubaugh
>
> Bill Katz wrote:
>
> > ENOUGH!! Who the F**K cares about this crap? Take it off-line, all of
you.
> >
> > -------------------------------------
> > At 05:07 AM 9/25/00 , you wrote:
> >
> > >I won't insult you Ray ...but if you're going to start bashing people
with
> > >differing opinions, let all see it! Why can't you discuss something so
> > >relevant to CARS and DRIVING without insults?????????
> > >
> > >Dave
> > >
> > >
> > >If you drove next to me you'd have to be driving the posted speed
limit.
> > >Obviously not something you do. The majority rules.
> > >Rayfixitanddriveitfeehan.
>
>
From "RL Chrysler" <lchrysl at fhs.csu.McMaster.CA>
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 16:27:52 -0400
Subject: Re: Side Curtain Repair
> The Side Curtains that I got with my BN4 are in pretty bad shape. The
frames have been painted and need to be stripped and refinished. The
question is how do you remove the plexiglass? Do you bend it enough to get
out of the channel? It does not look like the frame itself opens any where.
The plexiglass is in pretty good shape. Besides soap and water what do you
clean that stuff with?
>
> Thanks,
> Jim McDermott
> 1957 100-Six BN4
>
I always found that if you can move each panel to the middle of the frame,
you can bend (flex) the plexi enough to get it to pop out. A bit of frame
flexing in the vertical plane helps a bit too.
Soap and water, and a very gentle drying is about all you can do, though
I've heard of some folks using a furniture polish on them, though I haven't
tried it.
Rich Chrysler
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 13:55:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Woodley park and Car events in General.
Jonathan,
I too enjoyed the Woodley park event. It is becoming
my favorite event of the year. I also drove by BN7,
but could only stay for the early morning hours.
Many of the cars are not show quality, but daily
drivers or works in progress. The owner that takes
the time to trailer a bucket of parts in my eyes gets
the prize of the day. This year I enjoyed the blue
Aston Martin looking coupe with no doors, hood or
trunk, fresh paint and a temporary registration.
As a spectator, one of the things that I didn't enjoy
is the grouping of cars by make and model. A long
line up of TR3s or Healeys for that matter is not as
interesting as seeing the cars integrated with the
other makes.
I support your efforts to bring back the Moss event.
By the way, what was Jay Leno driving?
Dean
60 BN7 (White w/driving lights and a hood strap)
-- "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej@mossmotors.com> wrote:
>
> Well, I had a great drive down to Woodley park in
> the BN7 yesterday, though
> she looked a bit scruffy at the end of all that
> shiny paint and chrome. She
> is making progress though. She sounded great, lots
> of power and never ran
> hot, though I wish I could say the same thing about
> the driver!
>
> Anyway, I got into a discussion with some friends
> about car events and the
> activities that we have at them. I know that for
> many people these events
> are great ways of looking at cars and judging
> (informally or not) the
> originality of the cars etc. Though I seemed to
> talk to a number of people
> who were disappointed that there were not many non
> club specific events that
> emphasized driving the cars; tours and autocrosses
> and stuff.. I'm curious
> what people would like to see at these events. What
> kinds of activities do
> you want to do? What do other events do that you
> like and don't like? Moss
> used to put on a great event in Buelton that had a
> nice mix and I am trying
> to get them to do it again. I would be interested
> to hear what people like.
>
> Jonathan Lane
> '60 BN7
__________________________________________________
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com/
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 14:40:43 -0700
Subject: Re: Woodley park and Car events in General.
Dean,
Jay Leno brought his McLaren F1. Dark grey metallic w/single center seat
layout. I went to check it out and when I came back to my BJ7 there were
a few lads from Speedvision video taping my car!? Turns out they were
filming for an upcoming show called the Hemmings Review or something.
They didn't seem deterred that my car is not perfect and falls into the
10 - 15 foot category so I was happy to play along for an interview. Who
knows, might only make it to the editing room floor but they said they
would send me a tape and info on the air date.
I thought the same thing about the grouping of the cars. I have a friend
who's neighbour puts on the event and I'll see if he would consider
changing things in the future.
Cheers,
John Loftus
Dean Caccavo wrote:
>
> Jonathan,
>
> I too enjoyed the Woodley park event. It is becoming
> my favorite event of the year. I also drove by BN7,
> but could only stay for the early morning hours.
>
> Many of the cars are not show quality, but daily
> drivers or works in progress. The owner that takes
> the time to trailer a bucket of parts in my eyes gets
> the prize of the day. This year I enjoyed the blue
> Aston Martin looking coupe with no doors, hood or
> trunk, fresh paint and a temporary registration.
>
> As a spectator, one of the things that I didn't enjoy
> is the grouping of cars by make and model. A long
> line up of TR3s or Healeys for that matter is not as
> interesting as seeing the cars integrated with the
> other makes.
>
> I support your efforts to bring back the Moss event.
>
> By the way, what was Jay Leno driving?
>
> Dean
> 60 BN7 (White w/driving lights and a hood strap)
>
> -- "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej@mossmotors.com> wrote:
> >
> > Well, I had a great drive down to Woodley park in
> > the BN7 yesterday, though
> > she looked a bit scruffy at the end of all that
> > shiny paint and chrome. She
> > is making progress though. She sounded great, lots
> > of power and never ran
> > hot, though I wish I could say the same thing about
> > the driver!
> >
> > Anyway, I got into a discussion with some friends
> > about car events and the
> > activities that we have at them. I know that for
> > many people these events
> > are great ways of looking at cars and judging
> > (informally or not) the
> > originality of the cars etc. Though I seemed to
> > talk to a number of people
> > who were disappointed that there were not many non
> > club specific events that
> > emphasized driving the cars; tours and autocrosses
> > and stuff.. I'm curious
> > what people would like to see at these events. What
> > kinds of activities do
> > you want to do? What do other events do that you
> > like and don't like? Moss
> > used to put on a great event in Buelton that had a
> > nice mix and I am trying
> > to get them to do it again. I would be interested
> > to hear what people like.
> >
> > Jonathan Lane
> > '60 BN7
>
> __________________________________________________
> Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
> http://im.yahoo.com/
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 18:19:17 EDT
Subject: BN1 Scuttle Seals
I have received conflicting opinions from two people who should know as to
whether or not the BN1 had the dog-legged metal scuttle seal, as did the BN2
(This is the gutter that keeps the rain from dripping onto your knee). Moss
shows it on p. 115 of its AHY-13 catalogue. Will it fit on a BN1 and if so
does anyone know of a source for the attendant rubber seal, along with the
seal that fits on the door bottom?
Michael Oritt--BN1
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 15:35:03 -0700
Subject: RE: FW: "average"
Interesting car related topics I can deal with, it's the endless drivel
that ensued I take exception to.
And I never called anyone a name, I just wanted the incessant banter to
stop or go somewhere it belongs, offline.
bk
------------------------
At 12:30 PM 9/25/00 , you wrote:
>You guys (some of you) are a bunch of cranky little buttholes for
>crying-out-loud! I tried to bring up a discussion. I get bashed by one child
>and now I get foul language from another.
>
>Excuse me...I thought this was about the love of cars and driving. I thought
>we could have intelligent DISCUSSIONS that are relevant to what this is (or
>should be) all about. Instead Mr. Feehan bashes anyone with differing
>opinions, and Bill gets angry and let's his foul mouth spew. And TERRY
>APPLAUDS IT! Now I know why I usually don't read this stuff...and why I
>respond and get involved even less.
>
>My father drove Healeys for 40 years. He loved these cars....and so do I.
>It's a passion....it's a hobby...it's part of life. Thank God he was never
>exposed to this...he would have been disillusioned. To some...this is a
>passion of love of the machinery and all that goes with it. I guess to
>others...well......I won't go down there with you.
>
>I'll make you happy Bill and Terry. Go back to repeating and rehashing the
>same irrelevant information over and over...go back to bashing and calling
>each other names....and I'll shut up and go back in my garage!
>
>I'm disgusted,
>
>Dave
>
>
> David R. Masucci
> Senior RF Engineer
>
> PinPoint Corporation
> One Fortune Drive - Billerica, MA 01821
> phone: (978) 901-0028 ext: 363
> fax: (978) 901-0050
> email: dave.masucci@pinpointco.com
>
> http://www.pinpointco.com
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
>[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Terry Blubaugh
>Sent: Monday, September 25, 2000 2:03 PM
>To: Bill Katz
>Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: FW: "average"
>
>
>
>Well put Bill, but could you say it in fewer words!!
>
>Terry Blubaugh
>
>Bill Katz wrote:
>
> > ENOUGH!! Who the F**K cares about this crap? Take it off-line, all of you.
> >
> > -------------------------------------
> > At 05:07 AM 9/25/00 , you wrote:
> >
> > >I won't insult you Ray ...but if you're going to start bashing people
>with
> > >differing opinions, let all see it! Why can't you discuss something so
> > >relevant to CARS and DRIVING without insults?????????
> > >
> > >Dave
> > >
> > >
> > >If you drove next to me you'd have to be driving the posted speed limit.
> > >Obviously not something you do. The majority rules.
> > >Rayfixitanddriveitfeehan.
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 17:42:33 -0500
Subject: Re: Side Curtain Repair
Hi Gary
Do you know whether Griot's is North America wide or restricted to the USA?
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
'65 BJ8
P.S. My 4/4 was plexi side screens that need a little attention
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 9/25/00 10:51:05 AM, JMcD206@aol.com writes:
>
> << Hi,
> The Side Curtains that I got with my BN4 are in pretty bad shape. The frames
> have been painted and need to be stripped and refinished. The question is
> how do you remove the plexiglass? Do you bend it enough to get out of the
> channel? It does not look like the frame itself opens any where. The
> plexiglass is in pretty good shape. Besides soap and water what do you clean
> that stuff with? >>
>
> Just bend it out. Meguire's and Griot's both make good plastic polish to
> remove light scratches from plexiglass. It is also pretty easy to get
> replacements made, though you may have trouble putting on new slide knobs.
> Replacement felt for the channels and rubber seals are pretty readily
> available.
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
From A2Garrison at aol.com
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 19:43:52 EDT
Subject: Re: "Flashers"
Dick
Over the weekend I installed a new flasher from Moss. The turn signals now
operate at a normal (and much safer) flash rate. I was surprised to see a
Lucas label on the new flasher with the same part number and wattage of the
original unit.
Prior to ordering the flasher from Moss I had followed your suggestion and
purchased an inexpensive one from NAPA. Although the NAPA unit did work, it
caused the dash light to be on all the time except while flashing and it did
not have the L bracket for mounting like the original.
Thanks for the help.
Alan Garrison
BN6 (or is it BN-6?)
<< Earlier this year I purchased a set of halogen lamps from you for my 100-6
> and am very satisfied with them with one exception. On the standard bulbs
> the turn signals flashed at a typical rate of about once per second. With
> the halogens they now flash at a very slow rate, approximately 2 seconds on
> and 1 second off. I still use the original Lucas flasher no. FL5 12v 42w
> 35010A dated 7/58 (who says that their stuff doesn't work?).
>
> Is there another flasher that I should use that will provide a normal flash
> rate or is my original just too old to handle halogen bulbs and in need of
> replacement? >>
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 16:47:02 -0700
Subject: Whistler Run...
Gary, the "All British Run" to Whistler B.C. was a great success again this
year. The weather was great for this time of year, not a cloud all day. The
temperature was a bit nippy for the morning run but the chill only apparent
in a Healey to the upper body. Approx. 280 cars showed up including 11 Big
Healeys and 2 Bug Eyes. Probably our best Healey turnout yet. It seems there
are usely other events coinciding with this date, like the "Northwest Meet"
;-) in Victoria. It's to bad you couldn't make it, maybe another time. There
were Washington cars as well as some from Oregon (Metropolitans).
Accommodations were made available for those wishing to spend the night but
most left in the late afternoon. It's a very laid back day, no competitions,
very few hoods up, just a gathering for fun after a 175 mile round trip run
through some of the most beautiful scenery that B.C. has to offer. The
gathering takes place at the Whistler Upper Village Concourse which is
surrounded by Alpine styled buildings and majestic mountain peaks....truly
awing even for a local resident. There are a number of restaurants to grab a
bite or you can just pack a bottle of wine and picnic lunch, as we did. It's
actually just a big do nothing day with the main purpose, the drive there
and home. The variation of cars is remarkable from Mini's to Rolls and
everything in between, including concours and daily drivers. Seen my first
Allard "Palm Beach" this trip, one of 68 produced. Its been an annual event
for the last 8 years on the 3rd saturday of Sept. Anyone in the Vancouver
area during that time should take the trip, even without a LBC...Neil
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 20:24:18 -0400
Subject: Re: "Flashers"
Funny thing.... the people who designed the original flasher unit knew what they
were doing. What a concept
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
A2Garrison@aol.com wrote:
> Dick
>
> Over the weekend I installed a new flasher from Moss. The turn signals now
> operate at a normal (and much safer) flash rate. I was surprised to see a
> Lucas label on the new flasher with the same part number and wattage of the
> original unit.
>
> Prior to ordering the flasher from Moss I had followed your suggestion and
> purchased an inexpensive one from NAPA. Although the NAPA unit did work, it
> caused the dash light to be on all the time except while flashing and it did
> not have the L bracket for mounting like the original.
>
> Thanks for the help.
>
> Alan Garrison
> BN6 (or is it BN-6?)
>
> << Earlier this year I purchased a set of halogen lamps from you for my 100-6
> > and am very satisfied with them with one exception. On the standard bulbs
> > the turn signals flashed at a typical rate of about once per second. With
> > the halogens they now flash at a very slow rate, approximately 2 seconds on
> > and 1 second off. I still use the original Lucas flasher no. FL5 12v 42w
> > 35010A dated 7/58 (who says that their stuff doesn't work?).
> >
> > Is there another flasher that I should use that will provide a normal flash
> > rate or is my original just too old to handle halogen bulbs and in need of
> > replacement? >>
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 20:52:10 -0400
Subject: Re: Side Curtain Repair
I purchased new plexi for my BT7's side curtains from Gary Hemphill along
with new rubber gaskets. The old beat up one is now only marginally worse
than the new one that came with the car. I polished the heck out of the
frame before installing the gaskets, and then popped in the plexi. Worked
out great.
I then paid a friend's wife to make me a soft bag for them using upholstery
material.
Lee
62 BT7 Tri-carb
----- Original Message -----
From: "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver@sk.sympatico.ca>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2000 6:42 PM
Subject: Re: Side Curtain Repair
>
> Hi Gary
>
> Do you know whether Griot's is North America wide or restricted to the
USA?
>
> Kind regards
> Ed
> Saskatoon
> '65 BJ8
>
> P.S. My 4/4 was plexi side screens that need a little attention
>
>
>
> Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > In a message dated 9/25/00 10:51:05 AM, JMcD206@aol.com writes:
> >
> > << Hi,
> > The Side Curtains that I got with my BN4 are in pretty bad shape. The
frames
> > have been painted and need to be stripped and refinished. The question
is
> > how do you remove the plexiglass? Do you bend it enough to get out of
the
> > channel? It does not look like the frame itself opens any where. The
> > plexiglass is in pretty good shape. Besides soap and water what do you
clean
> > that stuff with? >>
> >
> > Just bend it out. Meguire's and Griot's both make good plastic polish to
> > remove light scratches from plexiglass. It is also pretty easy to get
> > replacements made, though you may have trouble putting on new slide
knobs.
> > Replacement felt for the channels and rubber seals are pretty readily
> > available.
> > Cheers
> > Gary Anderson
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 20:55:59 EDT
Subject: Re: "Flashers"
In a message dated 09/25/2000 7:30:49 PM Central Daylight Time,
magicare@home.com writes:
<< What a concept >>
Doctor "WHOM", Mike?!?!?!?! <VBG w/smirk> !!
Kinda think the "KISS Rule" STILL applies !!!
Cheers...............
Ed (whom cannot, does not want to, NOR will 'reinvent' the wheel)
From BGAHC at aol.com
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 21:02:42 EDT
Subject: Healey Adventure updates
Of the eighty plus pages in the Healey Adventure Site the one that has
received the most hits (2054) is Healey Babes. So for your viewing pleasure I
have added two new pages. You can check them out at
http://hometown.aol.com/bgahc/jimwerner.html then go to Healey Babes. Be sure
to admire the cars.
I also added a page about the SIR Brit car show that several of us
participated in two weeks ago. You will find both under "New Pages."
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Visit my Healey Adventure site at www.jamesfwerner.com
From "Ron Schonscheck" <schonny at y2consult.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 11:38:16 -0600
Subject: Re: Re:Disgusted
Well said Gary, the right attitude but sometimes hard to adhere to. Let's
stay focused. Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2000 1:48 PM
Subject: Re:Disgusted
>
>
> In a message dated 9/25/00 12:32:53 PM, dmasucci@pinpointco.com writes:
>
> << I'm disgusted,
>
> Dave >>
>
> Dave -- Don't give up on the list just because it is a reflection of human
> nature. I'm sure we're all involved in a number of personal and
professional
> organizations, both formal and informal. In my own experience, every one
of
> these organizations has a large number of people who are committed to the
> overall goals of the organization and behave according to the norms of
> etiquette prescribed by the organization. Unfortunately, organizations are
> the means by which all of us satisfy a variety of different personal
needs,
> from amusement and education to ego gratification and stress reduction. in
> addition, participants come to these organizations from a variety of
> different backgrounds with differing understandings of what is acceptable
> human interaction and what isn't. And all of us have some days when we
> engage the clutch on our mouths without making sure our brain is in gear.
>
> So I hope the contributers will continue to participate and the rest of
you
> will continue to monitor the list for useful information, and I'll
continue
> my own practice of reading with one finger poised over the delete key for
use
> when I encounter off-message or off-color responses. I trust others will
> read my messages with the same finger ready.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
>
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 21:48:47 EDT
Subject: Re: BN1 Scuttle Seals
In Volume 25 -- CARS, Body, p.32 of the Austin Service Journal, it states
that the new, improved design scuttel seals were fitted startin at body
11143, which would have been an early BN2, I believe. The new design is
retro-fitted to the earlier cars. However, this will require not only
obtaining all the bracketry, etc. but also cutting off the "U" channel along
the edge of the scuttle where it meets the straight portion of the door.
Roger
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 21:51:11 EDT
Subject: Re: Side Curtain Repair
In a message dated 9/25/00 4:41:32 PM, edriver@sk.sympatico.ca writes:
<< Hi Gary
Do you know whether Griot's is North America wide or restricted to the USA?
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
'65 BJ8 >>
Pretty sure they're North America since they're based in the northwest. Check
www.griotsgarage.com
Cheers
Gary
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 15:28:49 -0700
Subject: Anyone see the new R&T?
Check out P.S. on the last page.
/// HANDS-ON RESEARCH \\\
Reviewer's Guides, Competitive Analysis, Beta Testing
E-mail: info@handsonresearch.com Web: www.handsonresearch.com
Phn: 650-991-1858 Fax: 650-991-1868
From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 19:08:19 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: On the road again!
Hi Ed;
I'm glad that your engine rebuild is done and that your back on the
road. If you hit the road as often as you can, then you are going to
have a hoot.
When the weather is halfway decent, I always try to get out for a run.
So far this year I've put roughly 5,000 miles on my '62 BT7. I expect
to drive it until the first salt hits the pavement, which is usually
sometime in December.
On Sunday, September 17th a group of us from Simcoe headed for British
Car Day at Bronte Provincial Park just outside of Toronto. Over 1200
cars were on hand - I tell you, it was sensory overload. About 30
Austin Healey's showed up and Martyn Ridley's gorgeous Bugeye, restored
by him and Rich Chrysler, took 1st place in class. And I'm told Blair
Harber's fantastic polished aluminum 100 race restoration took best of
show. Some shots of the day can be found on our club web site at
http://home.golden.net/~bjslater/ahcso/index.html Russ Bamsey attended
as a vendor and spent most of the day demonstrating his cut-out
Armstrong shock and how he rebuilds them. A number of the vendors
were guys just selling off excess parts and 'stuff' from their
restorations; quite a few 'deals' were made.
Back in August, Barb and I attended Summit 2000 in Kingston and had a
great time. Two speakers at the event were ex-works drivers and raced
Austin Healey's back in the '50's and '60's - Ed Leavens and Hugh
Sutherland. Hugh is the only remaining 100S 'original' owner and has
invited us to pay him a visit in late October to enjoy his 40x80 garage
with roughly 25 cars in various stages of repair. I expect the visit
to be most entertaining.
If you are planning a trip east Ed, drop me a line and I'll let you
know all the events that are going on and try to set up a suitable
welcome for you.
Take care and enjoy the roads
Scott
--- "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver@sk.sympatico.ca> wrote:
Hi Fellows
Well finally after months of waiting, asking questions, ordering parts,
helping with the tear down, etc., etc. The engine re build is over.
The car made it to the streets Friday afternoon, and by this
afternoon(Sunday) I logged a 151 miles at speeds at 45 mph or lower
with the rpm range below 3k in all gears. The Deleco alternator
suggestion fellows was a great one - night driving although not my
favourite sure is easier (I plan on changing the seal beams to Bosch
quartz ones). The Dennis Welch Road/Rally cam sure is interesting, you
sure know when it comes into play.
I have my name down for 3.5 rear end Michael Lempert is co-ordinating
but I think the way the car is now operating I'm going to drop out.
I was going to come East but with snow here Thursday and its potential,
and not having time to put on at least a thousand miles before heading
out on a holiday I have up it on hold until next year.
Hope this note finds you fellows in good health and excellent humour.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
=====
J. Scott Morris
Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
__________________________________________________
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com/
From "RL Chrysler" <lchrysl at fhs.csu.McMaster.CA>
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 22:21:49 -0400
Subject: Re: BN1 Scuttle Seals
> I have received conflicting opinions from two people who should know as to
> whether or not the BN1 had the dog-legged metal scuttle seal, as did the
BN2
> (This is the gutter that keeps the rain from dripping onto your knee).
Moss
> shows it on p. 115 of its AHY-13 catalogue. Will it fit on a BN1 and if
so
> does anyone know of a source for the attendant rubber seal, along with the
> seal that fits on the door bottom?
>
> Michael Oritt--BN1
Hello Michael, and other interested owners,
The BN1 up to car body #11142 used a simple rectangular cross section
sealing rubber about 1/4" wide by about 3/4" high. They are listed in the
parts book on page "Doors 3" as 2 of part #14B2747, Sealing Rubbers, door to
scuttle. These were both glued and crimped into place with a "J" shaped
aluminum strip, rivetted through the shroud scuttle edge and into the inner
steel. This strip, strangely not noted in the parts list, ran from only the
edge of the cockpit rail back to just short of the windscreen post, maybe 7"
or so, and the door rolled edge closed just against it, pinching it betwen
the door skin and the scuttle edge.
Over the years, I've seen this aluminum "J" shaped strip gone from many
cars, probably because they were lost when the shroud was removed for repair
or restoration.
>From car body #11143 on, the dog legged metal strips with the accompanying
rubber seals and support bracket onto the door hinge pillar that Michael
mentions were used. These rubbers are available from a number of suppliers
as a pair of straight running lengths, and must be modified, cut, angled
into the corners, bonded together, and so on. Lots of fun, to say the least!
The quarter round seals for the bottom casings of the doors are also quite
available, and simply contact glue to the lower door casing to inner door
skin edge. When the door closes, the seal makes contact with the outer edge
of the alloy door threshold trim plate.
If anyone wants to contact me off list I can let you know where I get these
parts. How's that for "politically correct!" <grin>
Rich Chrysler
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 22:46:31 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Side Curtain Repair
Jim
The side curtains that came along with my basket-case BT7 were in terrible
shape.
I removed the plexi by popping them out by bending them, i.e. pushing at the
mid-point until the edges jumped out of the tracks.
I sanded the frames with ever finer paper and then steel wool and then buffed
them on a buffing wheel. You can then clear-coat them - I didn't bother.
I made new windows out of Rohm and Haas plexi that I got at the hardware store
(intended for stormdoor glass replacements. ) You cut that material with a
hook-knife and a straight-edge and then break it at the score-line - just like
glass. You can then sand the edges smooth.
For the tabs, I cut small squares of the scraps and Crazy-glued them in place.
The finished product has stood up for ten years and look like new (of course I
keep them in the trunk and have only used them once - in a hurricane <G>)
Hope this helps
DickB
BT7 Tri-Carb
---- you wrote:
>
> Hi,
> The Side Curtains that I got with my BN4 are in pretty bad shape. The frames
>have been painted and need to be stripped and refinished. The question is how
>do you remove the plexiglass? Do you bend it enough to get out of the
>channel? It does not look like the frame itself opens any where. The
>plexiglass is in pretty good shape. Besides soap and water what do you clean
>that stuff with?
>
> Thanks,
> Jim McDermott
> 1957 100-Six BN4
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From Dmrams at aol.com
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 22:46:23 EDT
Subject: Re: "Flashers"
The difference between a part that "fits in the car" and the correct part for
the car.
Doug Ramsay 60AN5
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 22:52:07 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Choke cable trivia
Simon
A little further trivia - I put the "C" on my replacement knob by taking a 3/8"
diameter piece of steel tubing, cutting a 3/8" notch in one end with a hacksaw,
heated it and pressed it into the end of the knob to make the "C" and then
filled it in with a white paint-stick (the kind you can use to replenish the
marking on a golf iron) . and wiped off the excess.
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 9/25/00 9:09:22 AM, simon.lachlan@virginnet.co.uk writes:
>
> << I suppose that "Tippex" is a universally used product?
> (It's the stuff that you use over typos once you've gone to print).
> If you clean the knob off thoroughly with a degreasing agent and
> then paint over the area of the "C" or "S" or whatever, you can remove
> the surplus with the edge of a blunt(ish) knife. The "C" will remain
> in pristine white and give a very decent result. >>
>
> The U.S. product is called "Wite-out" (How do you know a blonde has been
> using your computer? From the Wite-out on the screen.") Sounds like it would
> work well on the shift-pattern on shift knobs, as well.
>
> Incidentally, your use of Naff led me to look it up in my new "British
> English from A to Zed." dictionary. Found it right off (means cheap or
> tatty), and also learned that it can be used as a euphemism for the f-word
> (or the b-word in Brit) before the word "off" and that it relates to another
> slang term, "Naafi," used for "canteen" (which in turn is Brit for snack bar)
> since the Navy, Army, and Air Force Institute ran the canteens during World
> War II.
>
> Learning a new term makes a Monday worth getting up for.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
> Editor, British Car Magazine
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 22:57:08 EDT
Subject: Re: BN1 Scuttle Seals
In a message dated 9/25/00 9:48:47 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Rmoment writes:
<< However, this will require not only obtaining all the bracketry, etc. but
also cutting off the "U" channel along the edge of the scuttle where it meets
the straight portion of the door. >>
Roger--
The "bracketry" is--I take it--the scallop shell-shaped bracket that holds
the dog-legged channel piece? If so, then is the channel attached to the
scuttle only by the bracket or is it riveted to it as well? And what about
the rubber--do you know where it can be obtained?
Thanks--Michael
From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 23:06:55 -0400
Subject: NOS Distributor
Moss has some NOS Lucas distributors, I would go for it, since mine
is not in great condition.
Any thoughts on the price 350$....seems a bit steep.
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 23:19:37 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: BN1 Scuttle Seals
Michael
Walt Blanck - an early President of AHCA - has the correct scuttle seals and
made up a nice instruction sheet. (I'm avoiding your questions about BN1/2 -
Rich Chrysler will know)
Walt can be reached at 847-918-9291.
Please say hi from me to Walt and Jeanette
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
> I have received conflicting opinions from two people who should know as to
> whether or not the BN1 had the dog-legged metal scuttle seal, as did the BN2
> (This is the gutter that keeps the rain from dripping onto your knee). Moss
> shows it on p. 115 of its AHY-13 catalogue. Will it fit on a BN1 and if so
> does anyone know of a source for the attendant rubber seal, along with the
> seal that fits on the door bottom?
>
> Michael Oritt--BN1
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From BGAHC at aol.com
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 23:35:01 EDT
Subject: Re: Side Curtain Repair
dickb@cheerful.com writes:
<< I removed the plexi by popping them out by bending the >>
Just a footnote on materials. Plexiglas is often used as a generic name for a
specific product. Plexiglas scratches easy. You want to specify Lexan for is
better scratch resistance.
In one of my previous occupations I ran a para-transit company and had a
division that did fixed route bus transportation for the local bus company.
All the buses had lexan windows and the local automotive glass shop stocked
the material and cut them at a very reasonable cost. Stay away from the
hardware store type Plexiglas and let the professionals cut it, it's not
worth the hassle.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Visit my Healey Adventure site at www.jamesfwerner.com
From CNAArndt at aol.com
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 23:51:42 EDT
Subject: Re: Woodley park and Car events in General.
In a message dated 09/25/2000 1:57:03 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
healeybn7@yahoo.com writes:
<< By the way, what was Jay Leno driving? >>
Dean
Nothing special, just a jet black Maclaren F1 which he drove to the event.
BTW, I didn't think that they were legal to drive on public highways here in
the U.S.
Curt Arndt
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 00:02:46 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: "Flashers"
Alan
I'm glad everything worked out OK.
In 999 out of 1000 Halogen Bulb replacements I've arranged the original Lucas
Flasher worked just fine. But I always offer the "NAPA fix" when pressed since
I don't know anything about the condition of the particular Lucas
flashers/wiring/Flasher Control Box, etc.
Your dashlight staying on is a new one on me. I haven't a clue <G>
Regards,
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
> Dick
>
> Over the weekend I installed a new flasher from Moss. The turn signals now
> operate at a normal (and much safer) flash rate. I was surprised to see a
> Lucas label on the new flasher with the same part number and wattage of the
> original unit.
>
> Prior to ordering the flasher from Moss I had followed your suggestion and
> purchased an inexpensive one from NAPA. Although the NAPA unit did work, it
> caused the dash light to be on all the time except while flashing and it did
> not have the L bracket for mounting like the original.
>
> Thanks for the help.
>
> Alan Garrison
> BN6 (or is it BN-6?)
>
> << Earlier this year I purchased a set of halogen lamps from you for my 100-6
> > and am very satisfied with them with one exception. On the standard bulbs
> > the turn signals flashed at a typical rate of about once per second. With
> > the halogens they now flash at a very slow rate, approximately 2 seconds on
> > and 1 second off. I still use the original Lucas flasher no. FL5 12v 42w
> > 35010A dated 7/58 (who says that their stuff doesn't work?).
> >
> > Is there another flasher that I should use that will provide a normal flash
> > rate or is my original just too old to handle halogen bulbs and in need of
> > replacement? >>
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 21:12:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Austin-Healey vs. Austin Healey
I'm certainly glad that Gary-Anderson set us straight.
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 00:36:09 EDT
Subject: British Car Mag
Gary,
Just a follow up note to my meeting you and subscribing to British Car
Magazine at the Palo Alto British Car Meet. I've read the two free issues
and the Oct/Nov issue and was taken by the really interesting features
articles and the great department writers!!
Every article was worthy reading. Especially enjoyed the Race at the Base,
Modifies Healeys and your article on Tires for British Cars in the Oct/dNov
2000 issue; Roger Moment's article on Wheels and Splines in the Dec/Jan 1999
issue; and the Jaguar XJ-S, "Wacky" About Arnolts and the Rack and Pinion
articles in the Apr/May 2000 issue.
Looking forward to the Dec/Jan 2001 issue. Great magazine.
Hope to see you at a future Healey or LBC event. By the way, the GGAHC has
had some great activities this year.
John
100-Six Erika the Red
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 21:38:56 -0700
Subject: Re: Woodley park and Car events in General.
I like having the cars group by marque. With that many cars you may not get
to see all of them and this way you can look at the groups that you are
interested in.
Ron Rader
John Loftus wrote:
> Dean,
>
> Jay Leno brought his McLaren F1. Dark grey metallic w/single center seat
> layout. I went to check it out and when I came back to my BJ7 there were
> a few lads from Speedvision video taping my car!? Turns out they were
> filming for an upcoming show called the Hemmings Review or something.
> They didn't seem deterred that my car is not perfect and falls into the
> 10 - 15 foot category so I was happy to play along for an interview. Who
> knows, might only make it to the editing room floor but they said they
> would send me a tape and info on the air date.
>
> I thought the same thing about the grouping of the cars. I have a friend
> who's neighbour puts on the event and I'll see if he would consider
> changing things in the future.
>
> Cheers,
> John Loftus
>
> Dean Caccavo wrote:
> >
> > Jonathan,
> >
> > I too enjoyed the Woodley park event. It is becoming
> > my favorite event of the year. I also drove by BN7,
> > but could only stay for the early morning hours.
> >
> > Many of the cars are not show quality, but daily
> > drivers or works in progress. The owner that takes
> > the time to trailer a bucket of parts in my eyes gets
> > the prize of the day. This year I enjoyed the blue
> > Aston Martin looking coupe with no doors, hood or
> > trunk, fresh paint and a temporary registration.
> >
> > As a spectator, one of the things that I didn't enjoy
> > is the grouping of cars by make and model. A long
> > line up of TR3s or Healeys for that matter is not as
> > interesting as seeing the cars integrated with the
> > other makes.
> >
> > I support your efforts to bring back the Moss event.
> >
> > By the way, what was Jay Leno driving?
> >
> > Dean
> > 60 BN7 (White w/driving lights and a hood strap)
> >
> > -- "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej@mossmotors.com> wrote:
> > >
> > > Well, I had a great drive down to Woodley park in
> > > the BN7 yesterday, though
> > > she looked a bit scruffy at the end of all that
> > > shiny paint and chrome. She
> > > is making progress though. She sounded great, lots
> > > of power and never ran
> > > hot, though I wish I could say the same thing about
> > > the driver!
> > >
> > > Anyway, I got into a discussion with some friends
> > > about car events and the
> > > activities that we have at them. I know that for
> > > many people these events
> > > are great ways of looking at cars and judging
> > > (informally or not) the
> > > originality of the cars etc. Though I seemed to
> > > talk to a number of people
> > > who were disappointed that there were not many non
> > > club specific events that
> > > emphasized driving the cars; tours and autocrosses
> > > and stuff.. I'm curious
> > > what people would like to see at these events. What
> > > kinds of activities do
> > > you want to do? What do other events do that you
> > > like and don't like? Moss
> > > used to put on a great event in Buelton that had a
> > > nice mix and I am trying
> > > to get them to do it again. I would be interested
> > > to hear what people like.
> > >
> > > Jonathan Lane
> > > '60 BN7
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
> > http://im.yahoo.com/
From "ray feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 23:52:09 -0600
Subject: Re: FW: "average"
Dave, you've got to get out more. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Masucci, Dave" <dmasucci@pinpointco.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2000 1:30 PM
Subject: RE: FW: "average"
>
> You guys (some of you) are a bunch of cranky little buttholes for
> crying-out-loud! I tried to bring up a discussion. I get bashed by one
child
> and now I get foul language from another.
>
> Excuse me...I thought this was about the love of cars and driving. I
thought
> we could have intelligent DISCUSSIONS that are relevant to what this is
(or
> should be) all about. Instead Mr. Feehan bashes anyone with differing
> opinions, and Bill gets angry and let's his foul mouth spew. And TERRY
> APPLAUDS IT! Now I know why I usually don't read this stuff...and why I
> respond and get involved even less.
>
> My father drove Healeys for 40 years. He loved these cars....and so do I.
> It's a passion....it's a hobby...it's part of life. Thank God he was never
> exposed to this...he would have been disillusioned. To some...this is a
> passion of love of the machinery and all that goes with it. I guess to
> others...well......I won't go down there with you.
>
> I'll make you happy Bill and Terry. Go back to repeating and rehashing the
> same irrelevant information over and over...go back to bashing and calling
> each other names....and I'll shut up and go back in my garage!
>
> I'm disgusted,
>
> Dave
>
>
> David R. Masucci
> Senior RF Engineer
>
> PinPoint Corporation
> One Fortune Drive - Billerica, MA 01821
> phone: (978) 901-0028 ext: 363
> fax: (978) 901-0050
> email: dave.masucci@pinpointco.com
>
> http://www.pinpointco.com
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Terry Blubaugh
> Sent: Monday, September 25, 2000 2:03 PM
> To: Bill Katz
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: FW: "average"
>
>
>
> Well put Bill, but could you say it in fewer words!!
>
> Terry Blubaugh
>
> Bill Katz wrote:
>
> > ENOUGH!! Who the F**K cares about this crap? Take it off-line, all of
you.
> >
> > -------------------------------------
> > At 05:07 AM 9/25/00 , you wrote:
> >
> > >I won't insult you Ray ...but if you're going to start bashing people
> with
> > >differing opinions, let all see it! Why can't you discuss something so
> > >relevant to CARS and DRIVING without insults?????????
> > >
> > >Dave
> > >
> > >
> > >If you drove next to me you'd have to be driving the posted speed
limit.
> > >Obviously not something you do. The majority rules.
> > >Rayfixitanddriveitfeehan.
>
>
From "David" <david_m at radiantsoundworks.com>
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 06:06:11 -0400
Subject: Yup....tires....again!
Thanks to people who wrote offline....and Gary your letter was very good
advice.
I know tires have been discussed many times (now I'm rehashing!!!), and I
have checked out the archives on the subject before, but I want to ask one
question. Yesterday I was all set to buy the Michelin ZX 175R15's, but then
I read the article in British car stating that many run 185/70R15's. Also
Coker tire only had three of the ZX's and didn't know when they'd get more.
The article mentioned Michelins for the other sizes, but what about the
185's? Does anyone have a recommendation? I drive a phase 2 BJ8.
Thanks,
Dave
BJ8
TR4A
----- Original Message -----
From: Ron Schonscheck <schonny@y2consult.com>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2000 1:38 PM
Subject: Re: Re:Disgusted
>
> Well said Gary, the right attitude but sometimes hard to adhere to. Let's
> stay focused. Ron
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, September 25, 2000 1:48 PM
> Subject: Re:Disgusted
>
>
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 9/25/00 12:32:53 PM, dmasucci@pinpointco.com writes:
> >
> > << I'm disgusted,
> >
> > Dave >>
> >
> > Dave -- Don't give up on the list just because it is a reflection of
human
> > nature. I'm sure we're all involved in a number of personal and
> professional
> > organizations, both formal and informal. In my own experience, every
one
> of
> > these organizations has a large number of people who are committed to
the
> > overall goals of the organization and behave according to the norms of
> > etiquette prescribed by the organization. Unfortunately, organizations
are
> > the means by which all of us satisfy a variety of different personal
> needs,
> > from amusement and education to ego gratification and stress reduction.
in
> > addition, participants come to these organizations from a variety of
> > different backgrounds with differing understandings of what is
acceptable
> > human interaction and what isn't. And all of us have some days when we
> > engage the clutch on our mouths without making sure our brain is in
gear.
> >
> > So I hope the contributers will continue to participate and the rest of
> you
> > will continue to monitor the list for useful information, and I'll
> continue
> > my own practice of reading with one finger poised over the delete key
for
> use
> > when I encounter off-message or off-color responses. I trust others
will
> > read my messages with the same finger ready.
> >
> > Cheers
> > Gary Anderson
> >
>
>
From "Donald L. Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 06:45:05 -0500
Subject: Invention Help Needed NOT HEALEY RELATED DELETE IF NOT INTERESTED
Hi Gang:
For the past three years I have tried unsuccessfully to get someone with
electrical engineering background to help me develop a prototype for an
invention. The basic concept was fed into a marketing success planner
computer program and 100 questions were answered regarding it. The results
of the test were excellent. I personally think it has huge market
potential.
I don't have the money it takes to hire a professional prototype engineer so
all efforts would be under a "sweat equity" plan: 50/50 deal.
If interested please contact me off the list
Don
BN7
dyarber@dynasty.net
From "Eyvind Larssen" <seel at online.no>
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 14:14:01 +0200
Subject: NO LBC-content
None whatsoever...... just a DIFFERENT AH-page for you all.....
http://www.monsterx.com/austinhealy/
Was surfin' the net today...
E.Larssen 60BT7
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 08:20:31 EDT
Subject: Fwd: NO LBC-content
--part1_a4.9e62c0a.2701ee8f_boundary
In a message dated 9/26/00 8:18:17 AM Eastern Daylight Time, Awgertoo writes:
<< In a message dated 9/26/00 8:11:53 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
seel@online.no writes:
<< None whatsoever...... just a DIFFERENT AH-page for you all.....
http://www.monsterx.com/austinhealy/
Was surfin' the net today...
>>
Seeing as how we are running out of Healey decendants to entertain us,
perhaps these guys should be invited to do the Concours judging at the next
Conclave!
Michael Oritt, St. Leonard, MD (ducking) >>
--part1_a4.9e62c0a.2701ee8f_boundary
Content-Disposition: inline
Return-path: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
From: Awgertoo@aol.com
Full-name: Awgertoo
Message-ID: <bc.acb130a.2701ee09@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 08:18:17 EDT
Subject: Re: NO LBC-content
To: seel@online.no
MIME-Version: 1.0
X-Mailer: AOL 4.0 for Windows 95 sub 111
In a message dated 9/26/00 8:11:53 AM Eastern Daylight Time, seel@online.no
writes:
<< None whatsoever...... just a DIFFERENT AH-page for you all.....
http://www.monsterx.com/austinhealy/
Was surfin' the net today...
>>
Seeing as how we are running out of Healey decendants to entertain us,
perhaps these guys should be invited to do the Concours judging at the next
Conclave!
Michael Oritt, St. Leonard, MD (ducking)
Michael
--part1_a4.9e62c0a.2701ee8f_boundary--
From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 06:39:45 -0700
Subject: RE: NOS Distributor
They're going like hotcakes so apparently the price isn't that bad. If you
want one let me know quickly. They are a limited supply.
Jonathan Lane
Retail Sales
Moss Motors, Ltd.
(800) 235-6954 x3240
(805) 692-2525 - Fax
lanej@mossmotors.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Alain Giguère [mailto:agig@sympatico.ca]
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2000 8:07 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: NOS Distributor
Moss has some NOS Lucas distributors, I would go for it, since mine
is not in great condition.
Any thoughts on the price 350$....seems a bit steep.
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 07:48:41 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Woodley park and Car events in General.
Curt,
I saw him pull up in a red single seater rear engine
open wheel car around 9:30am. Definately not a
Maclaren. He must have come back later with more
toys. Wish I could have stayed around...
Dean
> << By the way, what was Jay Leno driving? >>
>
> Dean
>
> Nothing special, just a jet black Maclaren F1 which
> he drove to the event.
> BTW, I didn't think that they were legal to drive on
> public highways here in
> the U.S.
>
> Curt Arndt
__________________________________________________
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com/
From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 08:18:32 -0700
Subject: Re: Yup....tires....again!
> I read the article in British car stating that many run 185/70R15's. Also
> Coker tire only had three of the ZX's and didn't know when they'd get
more.
> The article mentioned Michelins for the other sizes, but what about the
> 185's? Does anyone have a recommendation? I drive a phase 2 BJ8.
Dave.
I run 185/70/15 Yokohama 321s on my '66 BJ8 and like them very much. The
car was wearing Dunlop 165/15. There is a noticeable improvement in ride
quality and handling - they look cool too:>). Coop
From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 08:20:50 -0700
Subject: RE: Woodley park and Car events in General.
I was a little unsure about the grouping by marque as well. I showed up
with some friends with a supercharged TD, a TR4, a GT6 and an Austin Marina.
We ended up scattered all over the park which made it a little difficult to
hang out with my car and my friends at the same time.
Plus my car just looked so out of place surrounded by shiny new paint, new
chrome Healeys. I think someone actually scowled at us when we pulled in.
I was a little hurt. Oh well, at least the interior is coming along well.
Jonathan Lane
-----Original Message-----
From: Ron Rader [mailto:rader@interworld.net]
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2000 9:39 PM
To: John Loftus
Cc: Dean Caccavo; 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Subject: Re: Woodley park and Car events in General.
I like having the cars group by marque. With that many cars you may not get
to see all of them and this way you can look at the groups that you are
interested in.
Ron Rader
John Loftus wrote:
> Dean,
>
> Jay Leno brought his McLaren F1. Dark grey metallic w/single center seat
> layout. I went to check it out and when I came back to my BJ7 there were
> a few lads from Speedvision video taping my car!? Turns out they were
> filming for an upcoming show called the Hemmings Review or something.
> They didn't seem deterred that my car is not perfect and falls into the
> 10 - 15 foot category so I was happy to play along for an interview. Who
> knows, might only make it to the editing room floor but they said they
> would send me a tape and info on the air date.
>
> I thought the same thing about the grouping of the cars. I have a friend
> who's neighbour puts on the event and I'll see if he would consider
> changing things in the future.
>
> Cheers,
> John Loftus
>
> Dean Caccavo wrote:
> >
> > Jonathan,
> >
> > I too enjoyed the Woodley park event. It is becoming
> > my favorite event of the year. I also drove by BN7,
> > but could only stay for the early morning hours.
> >
> > Many of the cars are not show quality, but daily
> > drivers or works in progress. The owner that takes
> > the time to trailer a bucket of parts in my eyes gets
> > the prize of the day. This year I enjoyed the blue
> > Aston Martin looking coupe with no doors, hood or
> > trunk, fresh paint and a temporary registration.
> >
> > As a spectator, one of the things that I didn't enjoy
> > is the grouping of cars by make and model. A long
> > line up of TR3s or Healeys for that matter is not as
> > interesting as seeing the cars integrated with the
> > other makes.
> >
> > I support your efforts to bring back the Moss event.
> >
> > By the way, what was Jay Leno driving?
> >
> > Dean
> > 60 BN7 (White w/driving lights and a hood strap)
> >
> > -- "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej@mossmotors.com> wrote:
> > >
> > > Well, I had a great drive down to Woodley park in
> > > the BN7 yesterday, though
> > > she looked a bit scruffy at the end of all that
> > > shiny paint and chrome. She
> > > is making progress though. She sounded great, lots
> > > of power and never ran
> > > hot, though I wish I could say the same thing about
> > > the driver!
> > >
> > > Anyway, I got into a discussion with some friends
> > > about car events and the
> > > activities that we have at them. I know that for
> > > many people these events
> > > are great ways of looking at cars and judging
> > > (informally or not) the
> > > originality of the cars etc. Though I seemed to
> > > talk to a number of people
> > > who were disappointed that there were not many non
> > > club specific events that
> > > emphasized driving the cars; tours and autocrosses
> > > and stuff.. I'm curious
> > > what people would like to see at these events. What
> > > kinds of activities do
> > > you want to do? What do other events do that you
> > > like and don't like? Moss
> > > used to put on a great event in Buelton that had a
> > > nice mix and I am trying
> > > to get them to do it again. I would be interested
> > > to hear what people like.
> > >
> > > Jonathan Lane
> > > '60 BN7
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
> > http://im.yahoo.com/
From "P.M. Pollock" <pollpete at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 08:49:56 -0700
Subject: Re: Disgusted
Long message, about lists not Healeys.
This first paragraph is being added after I "slept upon" my original message.
That I am adding it illustrates a point I try to make below. Having had a
chance
to mull over my draft it occurs to me- obviously belatedly I should think- that
anyone on the List who has ever felt his ire rise in response to a post could
easily take this message to be a lecture directed personally at him. This would
seem to be especially true of the individuals who have recently suffered a spat.
Please believe me when I state that I intend no such thing. As I attempt to
describe below, I suspect there are some fundamental pitfalls to e-mail in
general and lists/newsgroups in particular to which we all are subject and which
may trap any one of us at any time into an escalating dispute. Certainly some
people are thicker skinned or rougher textured and others have shorter fuses,
but
I believe there is much, much more going on here than individual
characteristics. If you can, please don't take the following as a lecture. It
is intended as a description of some insights that I think are substantially
accurate and that have been very useful to me and is offered in the hope you may
find them useful too.
I've been ruminating about this message for some years, since long before
joining
this list. So besides seconding EditorGary's words of wisdom- and that they
are-
here's my 2 cents.
I'll wager most Listers are and have been regular list members only on this
list. Having been a lurker/member of several lists and newsgroups for some time
certain observations have formed in my aging brain.
About the first day on the first newsgroup visited I can remember thinking,
"Boy,
there sure are some [bowdlerized people] in this group!" (Hereinafter referred
to as "jerks".)
Now, my use of that word means someone quite offensive with few redeeming
features and I realize that we all will earn that description occasionally.
However, it is very, very difficult for me to imagine one who loves an
Austin-Healey as qualifying in the fundamental, as opposed to momentary, sense.
On another topic I referred to our beasts as "character-building" while,
actually, it's a symbiosis: I suspect it takes a fair degree of character -in
the best senses- to appreciate them in the first place and stick with them, once
past the "pretty face" stage. In my experience they need a small but constant
amount of patience, attention and respect, for which you will be rewarded with
as fine a friend as you'll ever have.
So why the occasional nasty squabbles?
Well, firstly an observation: "nasty" is not the right word, these are pretty
tame by net standards. I doubt you could find an unmoderated list/newsgroup
with
a similar participation level that is any calmer. For mild examples of what I'm
referring to, try going through the archives of
http://www.climatechangedebate.org/ .
Here's my theory.
Say we all have a Healey meet and end up in EditorGary's offices (if we can find
them- he keeps them well hidden <g>) hoisting a Real Ale or two. Same subjects,
same interests and disinterests, same passions, same beliefs. Same discussions.
Same angers? I think not. A radically different setting.
1. We're all on neutral ground in a social setting, guests (and Gary host),
not in the laid back comfort of our disheveled den where few but our most
intimate friends or associates ever tread.
2. We are able to speak in complete sentences.
The neutral ground observation is probably obvious, but nonetheless worth
pondering. Consciously or not, one truly does behave in a much more careful and
circumspect manner in a public social setting, let alone as a guest, than when
one is on his own turf where he is used to fully relaxing.
The complete sentences observation refers to what I think is the way most of us
largely compose our messages, as if we were speaking to an intimate on our turf.
But we are not speaking to an intimate nor is he on our turf or even in our
presence.
Most of us are not intimates- even after "knowing" each other for years on a
list- except in a very truncated sense of the concept. We don't have the subtle
and unconscious knowledge of each other that comes from regular face to face
conversation.
Not being face to face, when my fingers blurt my latest witticism you can't see
I'm sprawled in my easy chair, legs spread, hands behind my head and a grin on
my
face with one eyebrow raised. For all you know I'm sitting bolt upright on the
edge of my chair, legs tight together, arms tightly crossed, face wearing a
scowl. Hence my use of the net "<g>" convention for "grin" when I teased Gary
about how hard his offices are to find. An enormous amount of "verbal"
conversation is non-verbal. If we write anything the least ambiguous it is apt
to be misconstrued by someone. And we will write ambiguities, most of them
completely unconsciously. We will.
Because of these differences from spoken conversation coupled with my tendency
to
lapse unconsciously into the mode of casual verbal speech I long ago adopted the
practice of attempting, usually successfully I think, to make myself proofread
my
message at least twice looking as much or more for ambiguities as for typos.
Successfully in that I make myself do it, mind you, not that I always spot the
problem words. A couple of weeks ago I made a truly fine groaner of a pun which
Ed caught and "groaned" back at me privately. I, of course, replied in such a
way as to imply it was cleverly deliberate. "Subtle" I think I called it, as
good a description as any, while in fact, it had slipped past the proofread.
(Too subtle for the author but, as any good deconstructionist will tell you,
authors know not what they write, anyway.) In that case the pun was neutral, I
believe, and sufficiently awful/good that it would have stayed in, but what of
the other items I miss? One never knows.
Lastly (you mean you've stayed this far?), note what I did in that preceding
paragraph. If I had a deconstructionist professor sitting in my parlor
-unlikely
to be sure, but possible*- I certainly would not make that kidding-on-the-square
joke (i.e. take that gentle poke) at his profession without first making an
assessment as to whether he might be unusually thin-skinned and would equally
certainly have delivered it in a friendly and gently teasing manner. Pretty
hard
to do in print. So given that several hundred people are likely to read this
message, there may be a deconstructionist among them, and my perceptions of the
character of the philosophy or its adherents may be somewhat less than
comprehensive or accurate, upon my proofread perhaps I should have excised the
comment. It is not that I shouldn't make jokes or tease at all- far from it.
It's just that I should be unusually consciously thoughtful and circumspect in
doing so. It is not only -as Gary accurately put it- that we sometimes "engage
the clutch on our mouths without making sure our brain is in gear", but also as
if, in the use of e-mail, especially group e-mail, we need to switch to a
completely different set of gears. We need a super-low, with synchro (!).
The other side of this coin is that, when I find myself starting to emotionally
suspect "jerk", I try to remind myself of these problems of the printed word and
its often unintended or easily misunderstood ambiguities. Maybe the writer
didn't
see a possible interpretation or nuance of his words. Maybe the problematical
aspect is wholly a product of my twisted little mind (I've been through law
school [excise?]). So I try to think twice before reaching my conclusion and,
more so than in other contexts, find myself suspending judgment. Perhaps
because
of this, notwithstanding the squabbles, for me nobody on this list has yet come
close to earning that epithet. (But don't worry, I'll keep an open mind.)
Hope these observations may be of use. This way of looking at it has helped me
to keep my ire to a very small minimum and, as I've not yet been a flame target
in any group, maybe to minimize provoking others. No doubt my turn will come to
be kissed, quite possibly now, and little doubt that when it finally occurs I
will have earned it, at least in part. I will certainly, of course, react only
with the utmost dignity and restraint. <g>
Pete Pollock
BJ7
N. California
* http://www.csse.monash.edu.au/community/postmodern.html
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 9/25/00 12:32:53 PM, dmasucci@pinpointco.com writes:
>
> << I'm disgusted,
>
> Dave >>
>
> Dave -- Don't give up on the list just because it is a reflection of human
> nature. I'm sure we're all involved in a number of personal and professional
> organizations, both formal and informal. In my own experience, every one of
> these organizations has a large number of people who are committed to the
> overall goals of the organization and behave according to the norms of
> etiquette prescribed by the organization. Unfortunately, organizations are
> the means by which all of us satisfy a variety of different personal needs,
> from amusement and education to ego gratification and stress reduction. in
> addition, participants come to these organizations from a variety of
> different backgrounds with differing understandings of what is acceptable
> human interaction and what isn't. And all of us have some days when we
> engage the clutch on our mouths without making sure our brain is in gear.
>
> So I hope the contributers will continue to participate and the rest of you
> will continue to monitor the list for useful information, and I'll continue
> my own practice of reading with one finger poised over the delete key for use
> when I encounter off-message or off-color responses. I trust others will
> read my messages with the same finger ready.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 12:00:38 EDT
Subject: Re: Woodley park and Car events in General.
In a message dated 9/25/00 8:54:47 PM, CNAArndt@aol.com writes:
<< Dean
Nothing special, just a jet black Maclaren F1 which he drove to the event.
BTW, I didn't think that they were legal to drive on public highways here in
the U.S.
Curt Arndt >>
just for trivia -- there is a new DOT regulation that allows buyers to bring
in cars manufactured after 1973, provided that they were never legal in this
country in any form, were manufactured in very small numbers, are intended
for "show and demonstration purposes only" and will not be driven more than
2500 miles a year. Out here it's referred to as the "Ellison loophole" since
reportedly it was put through by Larry Ellison and his well-heeled friends
who wanted to drive specific cars but didn't want to pay to have them
crash-tested and adapted to U.S. regs.
I'm not sure how they manage to get around California's separate regs on
emissions testing.
Cheers
gary
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 12:33:20 EDT
Subject: Re: RE: Woodley park and Car events in General.
In a message dated 9/26/00 8:26:28 AM, lanej@mossmotors.com writes:
<<
I was a little unsure about the grouping by marque as well. I showed up
with some friends with a supercharged TD, a TR4, a GT6 and an Austin Marina.
We ended up scattered all over the park which made it a little difficult to
hang out with my car and my friends at the same time. >>
I've often thought that it would be interesting to group cars by the year of
manufacture so you could see what else a person might have been looking at
when he bought the car new. After all, today we decide to buy a marque then
decide which year and model to buy. Then, they decided to buy a car and
looked around at what was for sale that year. When I bought my first sports
car in 1968, for example, I had to decide among an MGB, a Fiat 124 Spider, a
Datsun 2000, and a Sunbeam Alpine.
When I went to the Vancouver Island British Car Meet last weekend, I noticed
that they parked the featured marque together in the middle, but then parked
everyone else in order of arrival. Made for some interesting juxtapositions,
but friends with different cars who came together got to park together.
Cheers
Gary
From John Trifari <john4 at home.com>
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 10:19:19 -0700
Subject: Re: Yup....tires....again!
David--I have Yokohama 185-15s on my BN1. Try British Wire Wheel in Watsonville
CA John Trifari
David wrote:
> Thanks to people who wrote offline....and Gary your letter was very good
> advice.
>
> I know tires have been discussed many times (now I'm rehashing!!!), and I
> have checked out the archives on the subject before, but I want to ask one
> question. Yesterday I was all set to buy the Michelin ZX 175R15's, but then
> I read the article in British car stating that many run 185/70R15's. Also
> Coker tire only had three of the ZX's and didn't know when they'd get more.
> The article mentioned Michelins for the other sizes, but what about the
> 185's? Does anyone have a recommendation? I drive a phase 2 BJ8.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dave
>
> BJ8
> TR4A
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Ron Schonscheck <schonny@y2consult.com>
> To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, September 25, 2000 1:38 PM
> Subject: Re: Re:Disgusted
>
> >
> > Well said Gary, the right attitude but sometimes hard to adhere to. Let's
> > stay focused. Ron
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
> > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Monday, September 25, 2000 1:48 PM
> > Subject: Re:Disgusted
> >
> >
> > >
> > >
> > > In a message dated 9/25/00 12:32:53 PM, dmasucci@pinpointco.com writes:
> > >
> > > << I'm disgusted,
> > >
> > > Dave >>
> > >
> > > Dave -- Don't give up on the list just because it is a reflection of
> human
> > > nature. I'm sure we're all involved in a number of personal and
> > professional
> > > organizations, both formal and informal. In my own experience, every
> one
> > of
> > > these organizations has a large number of people who are committed to
> the
> > > overall goals of the organization and behave according to the norms of
> > > etiquette prescribed by the organization. Unfortunately, organizations
> are
> > > the means by which all of us satisfy a variety of different personal
> > needs,
> > > from amusement and education to ego gratification and stress reduction.
> in
> > > addition, participants come to these organizations from a variety of
> > > different backgrounds with differing understandings of what is
> acceptable
> > > human interaction and what isn't. And all of us have some days when we
> > > engage the clutch on our mouths without making sure our brain is in
> gear.
> > >
> > > So I hope the contributers will continue to participate and the rest of
> > you
> > > will continue to monitor the list for useful information, and I'll
> > continue
> > > my own practice of reading with one finger poised over the delete key
> for
> > use
> > > when I encounter off-message or off-color responses. I trust others
> will
> > > read my messages with the same finger ready.
> > >
> > > Cheers
> > > Gary Anderson
> > >
> >
> >
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 11:04:42 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: RE: Woodley park and Car events in General.
On Tue, 26 Sep 2000 12:33:20 EDT, Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
<< I've often thought that it would be interesting to group cars by the year
of manufacture so you could see what else a person might have been looking
at when he bought the car new. >>
That's a good idea, but my favorite way to group cars is by a suggestion
that I think Rudy Streng originally made years ago: Group them by color.
This applies to those events where there is a "Popular Choice" vote by
participants. This way the red cars would not automatically take first
place in every class. ;-)
Cheers,
Reid
Red/black Healey (goes in red class)
Blue Healey
Red Healey with white stripe
_______________________________________________________
Say Bye to Slow Internet!
http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html
From "James Sailer" <sailer at srv.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 12:10:53 -0600
Subject: Re: Healey Name
Well........ after some more extensive driving of my BJ8(and encounters
while driving) I have after 2 years come up with (at least for now) an
appropriate name....... Sheena ....... Don't ask.
Having too much fun with her for it to be legal (well maybe not the speed
limit part - but who cares in Idaho, Wyo, and Montana).
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8 - Sheena
From Bill Holt <lbcholt at one.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 14:10:42 -0400
Subject: Re: Healey Adventure updates
I'm "Heal-ed"!!
http://hometown.aol.com/bgahc/jwha_hly_girl_.html
Bill Holt
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 14:26:59 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey Repair Shop names
Seeing as how we have done car names and house names--how about Healey Repair
Shop names? My suggestion would be:
"Time Wounds all Healeys"
Michael (ducking)
From JH67HEALEY at aol.com
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 14:59:14 EDT
Subject: Re: Yup....tires....again!
Dave, I just went through looking for 5-new ZX 175R15's this past weekend and
Coker did only have the 3 in stock, I was with Alan Hendrix would does have
some in stock though. I had to settle for 165's SP-20 to get home on. One
thing everyone should realize is, tire maintanance. I learned the hard way
last weds on my way to Myrtle Beach to attend the So. Eastern Classic. I
experienced a total tire seperation on my newly aquired BN-7 Tri-Carb
2-seater, at 80mph on the rear left, the Healey survived with very minor
damage that is hardly noticable, but one big lesson learned here, maintain
and change the tires on your Healey to what the manufacturer says, I was
fortunate to be with Alan Hendrix who dated the tires, they were 3yrs old
before they were purchased, and that was 8yrs ago, although they all look
great and are low milage tires, change them. The money is well spent to
protect your Healey and yourself. I spoke to Robbie Cook last nite who was
following me, he says he is still picking rubber out of his teeth and off his
Healey. Dont risk it.
John S. Hunt
62 BN-7 Tri-Carb 2 Seater
67 BJ-8 3000 MK-III
53 Nash Healey LeMans Coupe
58 Healey SportsBoat
From "James Sailer" <sailer at srv.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 13:19:57 -0600
Subject: Re: Healey Name - Ooops
OOps Re Healey Names
My significant other advised me I got Sheena confused with Xena.......
And Xena it is.....
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8 - Xena
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 14:21:51 -0600
Subject: 1959 Bugeye for sale-still
Ok you guys. This is the last chance to buy a really nice automobile. You
can practically double your money for the price I'm asking. The car can be
seen on my web pages. It's the gray one. Green one is sold. Please contact
me off the list if interested.
This car was a bolt by bolt, screw by screw restoration. It is essentially
a new car.
It has 1275 engine w/ powermax pistons,road cam,1 1/2inch SU's,headers,
ribcase(re-built),disc brks frnt, wire wheels,Michelin 155/13's,3.9:1
rear,new upholstery,top,tonneau,side curtains,carpets,trim, 2 stage Sikkens
paint,rare LesLeston wood rim steering wheel. Many parts painstakingly
restored to original condition. The price of parts alone is more than the
asking price. Zero rust. Great fun.
Deadbeat customers force immediate sale.
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{) 54 BN1
Click below for webpage and mopeds:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
From Martin Johnson <MJohnson at cfworks.com>
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 13:11:19 -0700
Subject: RE: Healey Name - Ooops
Xena the amazon? That's appropriate!
-----Original Message-----
From: James Sailer [mailto:sailer@srv.net]
Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2000 12:20 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: Re: Healey Name - Ooops
OOps Re Healey Names
My significant other advised me I got Sheena confused with Xena.......
And Xena it is.....
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8 - Xena
From "James Sailer" <sailer at srv.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 14:42:21 -0600
Subject: RE: Healey Name - Ooops
Exactly...............
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8 - Xena
-----Original Message-----
From: Martin Johnson [mailto:MJohnson@cfworks.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2000 2:11 PM
To: 'James Sailer'; Healey List
Subject: RE: Healey Name - Ooops
Xena the amazon? That's appropriate!
From "jim t.p. ryan" <ryan at jimryan.com>
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 14:05:20 -0700
Subject: Re: 1959 Bugeye for sale-still
No bugeye at that link...
Sincerely,
Jim Ryan
64 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: frogeye frogeye@gateway.net
Sent: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 14:21:51 -0600
To: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: 1959 Bugeye for sale-still
Ok you guys. This is the last chance to buy a really nice automobile. You
can practically double your money for the price I'm asking. The car can be
seen on my web pages. It's the gray one. Green one is sold. Please contact
me off the list if interested.
This car was a bolt by bolt, screw by screw restoration. It is essentially
a new car.
It has 1275 engine w/ powermax pistons,road cam,1 1/2inch SU's,headers,
ribcase(re-built),disc brks frnt, wire wheels,Michelin 155/13's,3.9:1
rear,new upholstery,top,tonneau,side curtains,carpets,trim, 2 stage Sikkens
paint,rare LesLeston wood rim steering wheel. Many parts painstakingly
restored to original condition. The price of parts alone is more than the
asking price. Zero rust. Great fun.
Deadbeat customers force immediate sale.
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{) 54 BN1
Click below for webpage and mopeds:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
___________________________________________________________________________
Visit http://www.visto.com/info, your free web-based communications center.
Visto.com. Life on the Dot.
From "Masucci, Dave" <dmasucci at pinpointco.com>
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 17:36:37 -0400
Subject: RE: Yup....tires....again!
Well I've been going around and around about tires for weeks. Thanks to all
who gave their opinions. I finally decided on the safe side and went with
the Michelin ZX 175R15's. Those wider Yokahamas sure sounded nice, and if I
had the wider 72 spoke wheels, that would have been my choice. But I was
afraid that the yokos just wouldn't have worked out right with my stock
rims. So I took the safe road. I'm sure it'll be quite the improvement.
I CAN'T WAIT!!!
Dave
BJ8...gettin' better all the time
TR4A...someday I'll get back to finishing that one.
David R. Masucci
Senior RF Engineer
PinPoint Corporation
One Fortune Drive - Billerica, MA 01821
phone: (978) 901-0028 ext: 363
fax: (978) 901-0050
email: dave.masucci@pinpointco.com
http://www.pinpointco.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of JH67HEALEY@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2000 2:59 PM
To: david_m@radiantsoundworks.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Yup....tires....again!
Dave, I just went through looking for 5-new ZX 175R15's this past weekend
and
Coker did only have the 3 in stock, I was with Alan Hendrix would does have
some in stock though. I had to settle for 165's SP-20 to get home on. One
thing everyone should realize is, tire maintanance. I learned the hard way
last weds on my way to Myrtle Beach to attend the So. Eastern Classic. I
experienced a total tire seperation on my newly aquired BN-7 Tri-Carb
2-seater, at 80mph on the rear left, the Healey survived with very minor
damage that is hardly noticable, but one big lesson learned here, maintain
and change the tires on your Healey to what the manufacturer says, I was
fortunate to be with Alan Hendrix who dated the tires, they were 3yrs old
before they were purchased, and that was 8yrs ago, although they all look
great and are low milage tires, change them. The money is well spent to
protect your Healey and yourself. I spoke to Robbie Cook last nite who was
following me, he says he is still picking rubber out of his teeth and off
his
Healey. Dont risk it.
John S. Hunt
62 BN-7 Tri-Carb 2 Seater
67 BJ-8 3000 MK-III
53 Nash Healey LeMans Coupe
58 Healey SportsBoat
From "P.M. Pollock" <pollpete at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 14:55:31 -0700
Subject: Re: Disgusted
Naw... Anybody who can field strip an SU fuel pump's points can cope with
anything.
Pete
Jerry Wall wrote:
> hey pete-
>
> wow! i hope you type faster than i. it would take me a day and a 1/2 to put
>something like that together. it may be too esoteric for most of us healey
>owner/mechanics.
>
> happy healeying,
>
> jerry
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: "P.M. Pollock" <pollpete@ix.netcom.com>
> Subject: Disgusted
> Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 08:49:56 -0700
>
>
> Long message, about lists not Healeys.
From "P.M. Pollock" <pollpete at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 14:58:14 -0700
Subject: Re: Disgusted / OPEN LETTER TO ALL (who care's)
Kirk (and Mike)-
Thanks for the replies and please humor me if I take one more strike against
this dead horse.
What I described was a set of musings that had grown in me as I first used
newsgroups. Fortunately for me (so far) they grew faster and affected me more
strongly than the many, many threads and choices of language that were raising
my hackles. As I look back on it and remember messages I composed, but
mercifully never sent, I could very easily, with a fully sincere belief in my
own rectitude, have fallen into the apparent role that troubles you. I put
those ideas out on the premise that there would be at least a few people on the
list to whom similar ideas had not yet occurred and who might find them of use
as they have been to me.
As to my use of "apparent role": There are people on some lists who are jerks,
I think the usual term is "troll", deliberate troublemakers. But consider a
person who has strong opinions and is, by nature, blunt in their manner of
speech. Nothing "wrong" (bad, immoral, unethical) about either characteristic
although both can be somewhat harder than whatever the norm is to deal with,
doubly or exponentially so together. Now add people who tend to be somewhat
more sensitive than whatever is the norm or who have just had a rotten day.
Last add the "e-mail fog" effect I'm trying to model that tends to
substantially, shall we say, "sharpen" messages more or less at random in
greater or lesser degree. A recipe for initial misunderstandings or exaggerated
responses plus incremental escalation. I think this is most of the trouble one
sees on lists, and so far for me, all of the trouble on this one.
I've had that message in mind for a long time -exchanged elements of it with old
friends by e-mail- but this is the first newsgroup/list whose members I have
held in sufficiently high regard to send it and risk ending up chewing on my
insole. Maybe the biggest complement I could pay to the List members is that
the guy who is most apt to irritate me is a person whom I have come to see as
someone I would be delighted to have as a neighbor, notwithstanding that we
would no doubt give each other fits from time to time.
Thanks again,
Pete Pollock
BJ7
N. California
kirk kvam wrote:
> Hey Pete,
>
> If you understand all that you wrote, why have you wasted all the time and
> sleep composing your response.
>
> You know it will only go up in smoke, in ONE eye (ear) and out some other
> anatomical orifice.
>
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 15:45:24 -0700
Subject: Re: RE: Woodley park and Car events in General.
Interesting analogy, even though tongue in cheek there is something about
red sports cars that the public likes. I can't vouch for taking first place
in any class but interesting never-the-less...Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Reid Trummel" <AHCUSA@excite.com>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2000 11:04 AM
Subject: Re: RE: Woodley park and Car events in General.
>
> On Tue, 26 Sep 2000 12:33:20 EDT, Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>
> << I've often thought that it would be interesting to group cars by the
year
> of manufacture so you could see what else a person might have been looking
> at when he bought the car new. >>
>
>
> That's a good idea, but my favorite way to group cars is by a suggestion
> that I think Rudy Streng originally made years ago: Group them by color.
> This applies to those events where there is a "Popular Choice" vote by
> participants. This way the red cars would not automatically take first
> place in every class. ;-)
>
> Cheers,
> Reid
> Red/black Healey (goes in red class)
> Blue Healey
> Red Healey with white stripe
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________
> Say Bye to Slow Internet!
> http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html
>
>
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 15:38:31 -0700
Subject: Re: RE: Woodley park and Car events in General.
The "All British Field Meet" at Vandusen Gardens in Vancouver (450 cars)
groups the marque and also groups within a marque. The 100-4, 6 cyl side
curtain and 6 cyl roll up are the 3 grps within a group. The total Big
Healeys are approx 25-30, Mg and Morgan do much the same. This way the clubs
are together for good or bad, anyway that's the way they do it here. Minter
Gardens "Concours D'Elegance" does the same. Seems to work out ok...Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2000 9:33 AM
Subject: Re: RE: Woodley park and Car events in General.
>
>
> In a message dated 9/26/00 8:26:28 AM, lanej@mossmotors.com writes:
>
> <<
> I was a little unsure about the grouping by marque as well. I showed up
> with some friends with a supercharged TD, a TR4, a GT6 and an Austin
Marina.
> We ended up scattered all over the park which made it a little difficult
to
> hang out with my car and my friends at the same time. >>
>
> I've often thought that it would be interesting to group cars by the year
of
> manufacture so you could see what else a person might have been looking at
> when he bought the car new. After all, today we decide to buy a marque
then
> decide which year and model to buy. Then, they decided to buy a car and
> looked around at what was for sale that year. When I bought my first
sports
> car in 1968, for example, I had to decide among an MGB, a Fiat 124 Spider,
a
> Datsun 2000, and a Sunbeam Alpine.
>
> When I went to the Vancouver Island British Car Meet last weekend, I
noticed
> that they parked the featured marque together in the middle, but then
parked
> everyone else in order of arrival. Made for some interesting
juxtapositions,
> but friends with different cars who came together got to park together.
>
> Cheers
> Gary
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 19:15:43 EDT
Subject: Fwd: Disgusted / OPEN LETTER TO ALL (who care's)
--part1_e6.b524ef6.2702881f_boundary
In a message dated 9/26/00 6:32:23 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Awgertoo writes:
<< Pete--
I think that it is the perceived anonymity of our list that sometimes brings
out the worst in some of us (myself excluded, of course!) However, as I have
come to learn at gatherings such as Conclave, Encounter, etc., several
"listers still have a few brain cells left and after meeting someone new I
have often been greeted with "Oh, you're the guy who writes all those (fill
in the blank) messages on the list", the words "inane" "stupid" and the like
seldom being mentioned but often implied by facial expressions and/or
snickers to their friends. My point is, if we never think we will be held
responsible for what we say then we are tempted to be intemperate in our
actions. And sooner or later we will meet up with those whom we offend so
freely.
But I have learned that sometimes merely writing an email is thereapeutic
and purges the pent-up bad feeling that seems to arise within me--I just need
to keep my finger off the "send" trigger and instead delete my message!
This is called "restraint of pen and tongue" and serves me well quite
often--in fact, more often than not.
Thanks for your (fill in the blank) thoughts--
Michael Oritt, St. Leonard, MD (the guy who writes all the stupid, inane
messages!) >>
--part1_e6.b524ef6.2702881f_boundary
Content-Disposition: inline
Return-path: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
From: Awgertoo@aol.com
Full-name: Awgertoo
Message-ID: <4f.1480e6b.27027df7@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 18:32:23 EDT
Subject: Re: Disgusted / OPEN LETTER TO ALL (who care's)
To: pollpete@ix.netcom.com
MIME-Version: 1.0
X-Mailer: AOL 4.0 for Windows 95 sub 111
Pete--
I think that it is the perceived anonymity of our list that sometimes brings
out the worst in some of us (myself excluded, of course!) However, as I have
come to learn at gatherings such as Conclave, Encounter, etc., several
"listers still have a few brain cells left and after meeting someone new I
have often been greeted with "Oh, you're the guy who writes all those (fill
in the blank) messages on the list", the words "inane" "stupid" and the like
seldom being mentioned but often implied by facial expressions and/or
snickers to their friends. My point is, if we never think we will be held
responsible for what we say then we are tempted to be intemperate in our
actions. And sooner or later we will meet up with those whom we offend so
freely.
But I have learned that sometimes merely writing an email is thereapeutic and
purges the pent-up bad feeling that seems to arise within me--I just need to
keep my finger off the "send" trigger and instead delete my message! This
is called "restraint of pen and tongue" and serves me well quite often--in
fact, more often than not.
Thanks for your (fill in the blank) thoughts--
Michael Oritt, St. Leonard, MD (the guy who writes all the stupid, inane
messages!)
--part1_e6.b524ef6.2702881f_boundary--
From Brian Mix <brianmix at home.com>
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 16:32:03 -0700
Subject: Upcoming So. Cal Event
Just in case you are in the Southern California area this Sunday stop buy the
"San Diego British Car Day" (it's actually in Bonsall).
This is a great "casual" event. No concore, just a fun day with tons of cars
from across the pond.
http://www.sandiegobritishcarday.org/
Brian
From A2Garrison at aol.com
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 20:27:50 EDT
Subject: Re: "Flashers"
Doug
The Moss flasher was the same size as original with screw terminals and had a
reasonably close "L" bracket to original. The major difference was that the
bracket had a slotted mounting hole such that you would not have to remove
the mounting screw to replace the flasher. The label is gray with black
lettering. It mounted in its original location with no modifications to the
wiring harness.
Alan Garrison
BN6
In a message dated 09/25/2000 8:40:44 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
dwflagg@juno.com writes:
<< Are you saying that the flasher you ordered from Moss is as per original?
I had ordered one a year or so back and it had a green Lucas sticker on
it and was much larger that original and, I believe, did not have the
correct "L" bracket. Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug >>
From A2Garrison at aol.com
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 20:27:54 EDT
Subject: Healey Spotted in Centralia, WA
My sister and brother-in-law from Michigan were vacationing on the West coast
last week and spotted a gorgeous Florida green over white Healey parked
downtown on Monday. From the pictures they took it appears to be a BN6.
Although they met the driver, who was very gracious to wait while my
brother-in-law went to get their camera, they did not remember his name.
Apparently he was on his way back home to Eugene, OR after having been to a
meet. Anyone on the list?
Alan Garrison
BN6
From dwflagg at juno.com
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 20:40:42 -0400
Subject: Re: 6 Cylinder Bumpers
I inadvertently deleted a post from a gentleman who was looking for just
a front bumper for his 6 cylinder Healey. Could you please contact me off
the list. Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 16:48:41 -0400
Subject: Re: Woodley park and Car events in General.
I doubt they are. But after all, we are not talking your average Joe. If
he is ticketed - so what? Pay the fine! He can afford it!
Keith Pennell
> Dean
>
> Nothing special, just a jet black Maclaren F1 which he drove to the event.
> BTW, I didn't think that they were legal to drive on public highways here
in
> the U.S.
>
> Curt Arndt
From "Charles N. Hall" <hallc at vianet.on.ca>
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 22:19:08 -0400
Subject: Restorable Healey wanted
From:
Charles Hall
Bracebridge, Ontario
Canada
hallc@vianet.on.ca
120 miles north of Toronto
Looking for Large Healey to rebuild for own driving pleasure.
Skilled in all areas of mechanics and body.
Any condition considered.
Restored cars are above financial limits.
From "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 21:33:32 -0700
Subject: 2000 Battle of Britain
Where in Santa Monica is this event taking place next weekend?
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at connect.comdek.net.au>
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 12:57:14 +0800
Subject: Dash top covering BT7
Hi all
I know this topic has been covered many times before and I have looked up
the archives but I still need some more information.
Can someone tell me the size of the piece of timber that goes along the rear
edge of the plywood that forms the base of the dash top. Also, what size and
shape is the rubber moulding that is somehow fastened to the rear edge of
this piece of wood?
TIA
Regards
JohnRowe
Perth
Western Australia
BT7 coming together.
From Healeyguy at aol.com
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 02:48:04 EDT
Subject: Re: 100 Head Crack Repair
Listers
Looking for the collective wisdom of the list. After a valve adjustment on a
fresh (about 200 miles) 100 engine I noticed what appeared to be very small
bubbles coming from the top of the head casting between the exhaust valve
springs of cylinders 2 and 3. The dreaded 100 cracked head. The crack appears
to be about 2-1/2 inches long arcing around the number three valve spring.
The head had been milled and supposedly checked for cracks on the combustion
chamber side but obviously not the top. The question is: What is the success
rate for a welded repair of the top of the head? Have any of you 100 owners /
mechanics been down this road before? The water jacket must be close to the
surface in that area as I'm certain that is what the bubbles were. Thanks
and...
Aloha
Perry
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 00:15:19 -0700
Subject: Re: 2000 Battle of Britain
I am fairly certain that it is at the Santa Monica airport, north side.
The museum of Flying.
Ron Rader
1965 BJ8...... "Bee Jay"
Mark Fawcett wrote:
> Where in Santa Monica is this event taking place next weekend?
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 08:42:21 +0100
Subject: Re: 100 Head Crack Repair
Perry
Many owners in the UK have tried welding but the success rate has not
been high. Some heads have cracked again almost straight away and some
much later but there are very few around that I am aware of that are
still sound.
By all means give welding a try but you may be throwing good money after
bad.
However as you crack does not appear to have reached a combustion
chamber why not try one of the new chemical solutions. I have been told
that there are some very advanced preparations now available that have
few drawbacks.
All the best
>
>Listers
>Looking for the collective wisdom of the list. After a valve adjustment on a
>fresh (about 200 miles) 100 engine I noticed what appeared to be very small
>bubbles coming from the top of the head casting between the exhaust valve
>springs of cylinders 2 and 3. The dreaded 100 cracked head. The crack appears
>to be about 2-1/2 inches long arcing around the number three valve spring.
>The head had been milled and supposedly checked for cracks on the combustion
>chamber side but obviously not the top. The question is: What is the success
>rate for a welded repair of the top of the head? Have any of you 100 owners /
>mechanics been down this road before? The water jacket must be close to the
>surface in that area as I'm certain that is what the bubbles were. Thanks
>and...
>Aloha
>Perry
--
John Harper
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 11:12:47 EDT
Subject: Re: Dash top covering BT7
We have both of the wood pieces available for the dash top new
The rubber originaly was flat on the backside where it is attached to the
wood panel and about 1/2 high and round towards the driver. you can use a 1/2
square foam seal and after you install the vinyl it will take its round shape
as original.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From "Douglas W. Flagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 12:36:51 -0400
Subject: Re:6 Cylinder Bumpers
Mr. Garrison....give me shout off the list. Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
From "Douglas W. Flagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 12:40:37 -0400
Subject: Re:German Export Healey
To all those who responded with reference to Gordy Rounds '67 BJ8, the
car has been sold. It has found a good home in the San Diego area.
Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
From Jim Morrison <nljm at home.com>
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 10:17:18 -0700
Subject: Re: Healey Spotted in Centralia, WA
They most likely met Tom and Nancy Santee, returning home to Oregon from the
Vancouver Island English Car Meet on Sunday, Sept 17, in Victoria, BC, . Their
car is a beautifully restored 10-Six and those are the original colors.
Jim Morrison
North Vancouver, BC
A2Garrison@aol.com wrote:
> My sister and brother-in-law from Michigan were vacationing on the West coast
> last week and spotted a gorgeous Florida green over white Healey parked
> downtown on Monday. From the pictures they took it appears to be a BN6.
> Although they met the driver, who was very gracious to wait while my
> brother-in-law went to get their camera, they did not remember his name.
> Apparently he was on his way back home to Eugene, OR after having been to a
> meet. Anyone on the list?
>
> Alan Garrison
> BN6
From Alan_Hantke at i2.com
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 10:15:22 -0700
Subject: BT7 side shifter transmission question (quiz, except I don't have the
I've got a little problem on the transmission I've rebuilt for my BT7.
Although this is a side shifter,
the problem is actually germane to all of the later AH transmissions....
The issue resides entirely within the sliding 3rd/4th hub selector.
Unfortunately the manual(s)
don't have a good terminology for the TWO components that make up the
slider so I'll have to
do this myself. For the sake of clarity, let's call the top member that
actually engages the splines
of the 3rd and 4th teeth the 'slider'; this is the guy the shifting fork
actually moves. It slides back
and forth on something I'll call the 'hub', which itself has some play on
the shaft. It is that play that
allows the synchros to do their job
OK... now that the terminology is out of the way I'll describe the
problem.... After I finished putting
the transmission together I tried it out on the bench. R-1-2-3-4 all seem
to work great, but when
it 4 and I rotated the shaft around of a bit I heard a sudden THUNK and the
shafts suddendly got
hard to turn. What's this? That can't be, I thought... I'll have to open
it up again!
This is what I found. The slider was riding right up on the side of the
laygear, being pushed there
by it's (the hub/slider) 3 detent ball bearings which were almost free.
Basically what had happened
is that the hub slid (back) such that it was being pressed into the 3rd
gear's synchro (!) which allowed
the slider to slide so far forward that the ball bearing were able to press
the two pieces apart even
more. If this had been in the car, the net effect would have been some
worn slider/laygear from being
pressed together, and a 3rd synchro that would have rapidly failed due to
the car still being in 4th but
the 3rd synchro engaged. Once the synchro wore enough, the hub and slider
would could, theoretically
have been pushed far enough apart that their 3 ball bearings and springs
would have been able to
get out and float around the gear box.... Hmmm.... not a pretty sight with
all those rotating gears. You
get the idea!
So, that is the problem. I *think* that the issue is that the distance
between the 3rd and 4th gears is too
far apart. This would allow the hub to be able to slide too far towards
the 3rd (etc etc). The only
problem is that there isn't any adjustment for this separation that I can
find (well, we'll get into a theory
in a bit). Some of the people who are reading this *might* be saying, no,
the synchro could be too
thin too. I thought of that, but the synchro is new and in good shape
(i.e. doesn't look as though it was
not manufactured correctly). You might also be saying that the bearings
were not in all the way which
would result in the input and mainshaft (output shaft) being too far apart
(3rd and 4th). Unfortunately I checked that
too. The bearings are seated properly and on their retainer. And yes, the
'mainshaft distance collar' (number
45 on the MOSS catalogs, #85 on the A-H parts manual). The split collar on
the outside of the transmission,
under the cup held in by the retaining C-clip (manuals show a nut for some
reason, but every tranny I've seen
has the split collar), appears to be in fairly good shape; besides, if
anything, the split collar would PULL the
input and mainshaft FURTHER apart!
One could, I suppose, take the position that 'rattling' the first motion
shaft back and forth isn't a good test and
that the problem would not exist in the real world; the theory would be
that the components would be under pressure
and hence the hub and slider would not go in different directions.
Unfortunately this seems both risky and not
quite true. Any transition from the motor pushing to the motor idling
could be interpreted as a 'rattle' that would
cause the components to have a momentary 'nothing happening' state.
Lastly, in case you are wondering, yes, the shifter did pop down
further....... past it's detent. HEY! I think I
got it! I didn't have the bell housing or the adapter plate on when I
tried my test! I bet that the shifting fork
is precluded from that much travel!
WOW! This list is G-R-E-A-T!!!!! I was going to put out the question in
the hopes that someone could help
and here I go and figure it out while writing this. Well, I'll post this
in the hopes that someone else will learn
from my, ah, stupidity.
--alan
BTW, the synchros in a side shifter are bonze
From MBran89793 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 13:27:18 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey Spotted in Centralia, WA
In a message dated 9/27/00 1:19:58 PM Eastern Daylight Time, nljm@home.com
writes:
<< a beautifully restored 10-Six and those are the original colors. >>
Can't resist this one.
And in what years were the 10-Six manufactured?
Marion
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 08:58:14 -0400
Subject: Re: RE: Woodley park and Car events in General.
> When I bought my first sports
> car in 1968, for example, I had to decide among an MGB, a Fiat 124 Spider,
a
> Datsun 2000, and a Sunbeam Alpine.
Gary -
Did you buy the Sunbeam Alpine?
Lee
'62 BT7 Tri-carb
(who once lusted for an Alpine...)
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 16:15:33 -0400
Subject: Re: BT7 side shifter transmission question (quiz, except I don't have
theanswer!) LONG
Alan,
If fitting the bellhousing doesn't sufficiently limit the travel of the
selector rod you can add a buffer pad to the bellhousing, in the bottom of
the hole that the rods protrude into. The factory manual shows this as item
3 on the illustration for the center shift gearbox components. A piece of
rubber 1/8" to 3/16" thick will work, but
be careful not to make it too thick or the slider will not move far enough
forward for the spring-loaded balls to index.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: <Alan_Hantke@i2.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>; <owner-healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2000 1:15 PM
Subject: BT7 side shifter transmission question (quiz, except I don't have
theanswer!) LONG
>
>
>
> I've got a little problem on the transmission I've rebuilt for my BT7.
> Although this is a side shifter,
> the problem is actually germane to all of the later AH transmissions....
>
> The issue resides entirely within the sliding 3rd/4th hub selector.
> Unfortunately the manual(s)
> don't have a good terminology for the TWO components that make up the
> slider so I'll have to
> do this myself. For the sake of clarity, let's call the top member that
> actually engages the splines
> of the 3rd and 4th teeth the 'slider'; this is the guy the shifting fork
> actually moves. It slides back
> and forth on something I'll call the 'hub', which itself has some play on
> the shaft. It is that play that
> allows the synchros to do their job
>
> OK... now that the terminology is out of the way I'll describe the
> problem.... After I finished putting
> the transmission together I tried it out on the bench. R-1-2-3-4 all seem
> to work great, but when
> it 4 and I rotated the shaft around of a bit I heard a sudden THUNK and
the
> shafts suddendly got
> hard to turn. What's this? That can't be, I thought... I'll have to open
> it up again!
>
> This is what I found. The slider was riding right up on the side of the
> laygear, being pushed there
> by it's (the hub/slider) 3 detent ball bearings which were almost free.
> Basically what had happened
> is that the hub slid (back) such that it was being pressed into the 3rd
> gear's synchro (!) which allowed
> the slider to slide so far forward that the ball bearing were able to
press
> the two pieces apart even
> more. If this had been in the car, the net effect would have been some
> worn slider/laygear from being
> pressed together, and a 3rd synchro that would have rapidly failed due to
> the car still being in 4th but
> the 3rd synchro engaged. Once the synchro wore enough, the hub and slider
> would could, theoretically
> have been pushed far enough apart that their 3 ball bearings and springs
> would have been able to
> get out and float around the gear box.... Hmmm.... not a pretty sight with
> all those rotating gears. You
> get the idea!
>
> So, that is the problem. I *think* that the issue is that the distance
> between the 3rd and 4th gears is too
> far apart. This would allow the hub to be able to slide too far towards
> the 3rd (etc etc). The only
> problem is that there isn't any adjustment for this separation that I can
> find (well, we'll get into a theory
> in a bit). Some of the people who are reading this *might* be saying, no,
> the synchro could be too
> thin too. I thought of that, but the synchro is new and in good shape
> (i.e. doesn't look as though it was
> not manufactured correctly). You might also be saying that the bearings
> were not in all the way which
> would result in the input and mainshaft (output shaft) being too far apart
> (3rd and 4th). Unfortunately I checked that
> too. The bearings are seated properly and on their retainer. And yes,
the
> 'mainshaft distance collar' (number
> 45 on the MOSS catalogs, #85 on the A-H parts manual). The split collar
on
> the outside of the transmission,
> under the cup held in by the retaining C-clip (manuals show a nut for some
> reason, but every tranny I've seen
> has the split collar), appears to be in fairly good shape; besides, if
> anything, the split collar would PULL the
> input and mainshaft FURTHER apart!
>
> One could, I suppose, take the position that 'rattling' the first motion
> shaft back and forth isn't a good test and
> that the problem would not exist in the real world; the theory would be
> that the components would be under pressure
> and hence the hub and slider would not go in different directions.
> Unfortunately this seems both risky and not
> quite true. Any transition from the motor pushing to the motor idling
> could be interpreted as a 'rattle' that would
> cause the components to have a momentary 'nothing happening' state.
>
> Lastly, in case you are wondering, yes, the shifter did pop down
> further....... past it's detent. HEY! I think I
> got it! I didn't have the bell housing or the adapter plate on when I
> tried my test! I bet that the shifting fork
> is precluded from that much travel!
>
> WOW! This list is G-R-E-A-T!!!!! I was going to put out the question in
> the hopes that someone could help
> and here I go and figure it out while writing this. Well, I'll post this
> in the hopes that someone else will learn
> from my, ah, stupidity.
>
> --alan
>
>
> BTW, the synchros in a side shifter are bonze
>
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 16:26:39 EDT
Subject: Re: Woodley park and Car events in General.
In a message dated 9/27/00 12:10:19 PM, lmairs@ix.netcom.com writes:
<< > When I bought my first sports
> car in 1968, for example, I had to decide among an MGB, a Fiat 124 Spider,
a
> Datsun 2000, and a Sunbeam Alpine.
Gary -
Did you buy the Sunbeam Alpine?
Lee
'62 BT7 Tri-carb
(who once lusted for an Alpine...) >>
For the benefit of all (who also were young and stupid once themselves, I'll
bet), I thought the Sunbeam Alpine was cute but woefully underpowered.
Likewise, the Fiat 124 (besides, no one even raced the Fiat to my knowledge
then). Got it down to the MGB and Datsun. My vertically-challenged wife of
the time couldn't reach the pedals on the MGB and the seat tracks couldn't be
adjusted forward because of the tranny tunnel. So we bought the Datsun 2000
(in any case, it was being raced by Bob Sharp in C-production, against
Corvettes for heaven's sake, and the MGB was E-prod or something.) Turned
out the Datsun went through the too-light clutches about every 10,000 miles
-- required the engine to be pulled to change -- and the exhaust was made of
a low-quality tin foil and rusted out at about the same rate. But when it
was running, it was great. Oh, the Fiat 124 beat me handily in autocrosses,
because it handled much better than the Datsun. (all I could figure was that
Bob Sharp was basically redesigning and remanufacturing the Datsuns before he
raced them)
Cheers
Gary
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 16:49:28 -0500
Subject: Re: BT7 side shifter transmission question (quiz, except I don't have
the
hi alan-
it certainly made me feel good to be able to help a fellow lister with a
problem. this is a lot better than all that shouting, name calling and
gnashing of teeth. again, glad to be of help.
----- Original Message -----
From: Alan_Hantke@i2.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net, owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: BT7 side shifter transmission question (quiz, except I don't have the
answer!) LONG
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 10:15:22 -0700
I've got a little problem on the transmission I've rebuilt for my BT7.
Although this is a side shifter,
the problem is actually germane to all of the later AH transmissions....
The issue resides entirely within the sliding 3rd/4th hub selector.
Unfortunately the manual(s)
don't have a good terminology for the TWO components that make up the
slider so I'll have to
do this myself. For the sake of clarity, let's call the top member that
actually engages the splines
of the 3rd and 4th teeth the 'slider'; this is the guy the shifting fork
actually moves. It slides back
and forth on something I'll call the 'hub', which itself has some play on
the shaft. It is that play that
allows the synchros to do their job
OK... now that the terminology is out of the way I'll describe the
problem.... After I finished putting
the transmission together I tried it out on the bench. R-1-2-3-4 all seem
to work great, but when
it 4 and I rotated the shaft around of a bit I heard a sudden THUNK and the
shafts suddendly got
hard to turn. What's this? That can't be, I thought... I'll have to open
it up again!
This is what I found. The slider was riding right up on the side of the
laygear, being pushed there
by it's (the hub/slider) 3 detent ball bearings which were almost free.
Basically what had happened
is that the hub slid (back) such that it was being pressed into the 3rd
gear's synchro (!) which allowed
the slider to slide so far forward that the ball bearing were able to press
the two pieces apart even
more. If this had been in the car, the net effect would have been some
worn slider/laygear from being
pressed together, and a 3rd synchro that would have rapidly failed due to
the car still being in 4th but
the 3rd synchro engaged. Once the synchro wore enough, the hub and slider
would could, theoretically
have been pushed far enough apart that their 3 ball bearings and springs
would have been able to
get out and float around the gear box.... Hmmm.... not a pretty sight with
all those rotating gears. You
get the idea!
So, that is the problem. I *think* that the issue is that the distance
between the 3rd and 4th gears is too
far apart. This would allow the hub to be able to slide too far towards
the 3rd (etc etc). The only
problem is that there isn't any adjustment for this separation that I can
find (well, we'll get into a theory
in a bit). Some of the people who are reading this *might* be saying, no,
the synchro could be too
thin too. I thought of that, but the synchro is new and in good shape
(i.e. doesn't look as though it was
not manufactured correctly). You might also be saying that the bearings
were not in all the way which
would result in the input and mainshaft (output shaft) being too far apart
(3rd and 4th). Unfortunately I checked that
too. The bearings are seated properly and on their retainer. And yes, the
'mainshaft distance collar' (number
45 on the MOSS catalogs, #85 on the A-H parts manual). The split collar on
the outside of the transmission,
under the cup held in by the retaining C-clip (manuals show a nut for some
reason, but every tranny I've seen
has the split collar), appears to be in fairly good shape; besides, if
anything, the split collar would PULL the
input and mainshaft FURTHER apart!
One could, I suppose, take the position that 'rattling' the first motion
shaft back and forth isn't a good test and
that the problem would not exist in the real world; the theory would be
that the components would be under pressure
and hence the hub and slider would not go in different directions.
Unfortunately this seems both risky and not
quite true. Any transition from the motor pushing to the motor idling
could be interpreted as a 'rattle' that would
cause the components to have a momentary 'nothing happening' state.
Lastly, in case you are wondering, yes, the shifter did pop down
further....... past it's detent. HEY! I think I
got it! I didn't have the bell housing or the adapter plate on when I
tried my test! I bet that the shifting fork
is precluded from that much travel!
WOW! This list is G-R-E-A-T!!!!! I was going to put out the question in
the hopes that someone could help
and here I go and figure it out while writing this. Well, I'll post this
in the hopes that someone else will learn
from my, ah, stupidity.
--alan
BTW, the synchros in a side shifter are bonze
From "Harrison, Ian" <Ian.Harrison at li.csiro.au>
Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 08:52:27 +1100
Subject: FW: 100 Head Crack Repair
Perry,
although I haven't had a similar experience with a Healey I tend to agree
with John, that a chemical solution may work.
I had a 1946 Mk1V 3.5L Jag that had a head water jacket crack/leak.
I consulted several experts and came up with a product sold by bearing
retailers and used by the Australian Army to glue their quick deployment
bridges together. It's also used to glue human orthopedic and prosthetics
devices in medical applications.
The head never experienced problems again "whilst I owned it". According to
the documentation supplied, the product can withstand enormous heat and
physical abuse, it seemed to work well in the head application!
Unfortunately I can't remember the product name, but if you're interested, I
can track it down again, not-withstanding it may only be available in
Australia. I'm sure that a similar product will be available in the US.
Ian
BN4
-----Original Message-----
From: Healeyguy@aol.com [mailto:Healeyguy@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, 27 September 2000 17:48
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: 100 Head Crack Repair
Listers
Looking for the collective wisdom of the list. After a valve adjustment on a
fresh (about 200 miles) 100 engine I noticed what appeared to be very small
bubbles coming from the top of the head casting between the exhaust valve
springs of cylinders 2 and 3. The dreaded 100 cracked head. The crack
appears
to be about 2-1/2 inches long arcing around the number three valve spring.
The head had been milled and supposedly checked for cracks on the combustion
chamber side but obviously not the top. The question is: What is the success
rate for a welded repair of the top of the head? Have any of you 100 owners
/
mechanics been down this road before? The water jacket must be close to the
surface in that area as I'm certain that is what the bubbles were. Thanks
and...
Aloha
Perry
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 17:16:47 -0500
Subject: Re: 100 Head Crack Repair
HEY PERRY.... The folks at Indy Cylinder Heads in Indiniapolis (sp)
Indiana... did my Race car head last year and it's Cast Iron...
I just got back from my second trip to the Salt this Year and went 228 mph
on a 230 mph record with that Head... it's Fine the other Head dropped a
Valve seat.... but the repaired one is absolutely FINE... Give them a Call
they can fix about anything and to be honest it's the only place I would
send any Cast Iron Stuff for Repair....
Keith Turk...
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Harper" <John@jharper.demon.co.uk>
To: <Healeyguy@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2000 2:42 AM
Subject: Re: 100 Head Crack Repair
>
>
> Perry
>
> Many owners in the UK have tried welding but the success rate has not
> been high. Some heads have cracked again almost straight away and some
> much later but there are very few around that I am aware of that are
> still sound.
>
> By all means give welding a try but you may be throwing good money after
> bad.
>
> However as you crack does not appear to have reached a combustion
> chamber why not try one of the new chemical solutions. I have been told
> that there are some very advanced preparations now available that have
> few drawbacks.
>
> All the best
> >
> >Listers
> >Looking for the collective wisdom of the list. After a valve adjustment
on a
> >fresh (about 200 miles) 100 engine I noticed what appeared to be very
small
> >bubbles coming from the top of the head casting between the exhaust valve
> >springs of cylinders 2 and 3. The dreaded 100 cracked head. The crack
appears
> >to be about 2-1/2 inches long arcing around the number three valve
spring.
> >The head had been milled and supposedly checked for cracks on the
combustion
> >chamber side but obviously not the top. The question is: What is the
success
> >rate for a welded repair of the top of the head? Have any of you 100
owners /
> >mechanics been down this road before? The water jacket must be close to
the
> >surface in that area as I'm certain that is what the bubbles were. Thanks
> >and...
> >Aloha
> >Perry
>
> --
> John Harper
>
From Alan_Hantke at i2.com
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 15:28:03 -0700
Subject: Re: BT7 side shifter transmission question (quiz, except I don't have
Thanks for the feedback (everyone).....
Yes, I am aware of the little plastic stop to which you refer. I don't
know what I was thinking
about when I was 'testing' my unit.... I should have known better. Adnan
actually informed
me that this issue has even been on the list before; for that I apologize,
but I still think that
sometimes a few of these issues can be revisited so that they are in our
minds (or those of
new subscribers).
Once again, thanks to all who have responded and let me know I was on the
right track.
--Alan
"Mr. Finespanner"
<MrFinespanner@pro To: <Alan_Hantke@i2.com>
digy.net> cc: "healey list"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent by: Subject: Re: BT7 side shifter
transmission question (quiz,
owner-healeys@auto except I don't have theanswer!)
LONG
x.team.net
09/27/00 01:15 PM
Please respond to
"Mr. Finespanner"
Alan,
If fitting the bellhousing doesn't sufficiently limit the travel of the
selector rod you can add a buffer pad to the bellhousing, in the bottom of
the hole that the rods protrude into. The factory manual shows this as
item
3 on the illustration for the center shift gearbox components. A piece of
rubber 1/8" to 3/16" thick will work, but
be careful not to make it too thick or the slider will not move far enough
forward for the spring-loaded balls to index.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: <Alan_Hantke@i2.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>; <owner-healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2000 1:15 PM
Subject: BT7 side shifter transmission question (quiz, except I don't have
theanswer!) LONG
>
>
>
> I've got a little problem on the transmission I've rebuilt for my BT7.
> Although this is a side shifter,
> the problem is actually germane to all of the later AH transmissions....
>
> The issue resides entirely within the sliding 3rd/4th hub selector.
> Unfortunately the manual(s)
> don't have a good terminology for the TWO components that make up the
> slider so I'll have to
> do this myself. For the sake of clarity, let's call the top member that
> actually engages the splines
> of the 3rd and 4th teeth the 'slider'; this is the guy the shifting fork
> actually moves. It slides back
> and forth on something I'll call the 'hub', which itself has some play on
> the shaft. It is that play that
> allows the synchros to do their job
>
> OK... now that the terminology is out of the way I'll describe the
> problem.... After I finished putting
> the transmission together I tried it out on the bench. R-1-2-3-4 all
seem
> to work great, but when
> it 4 and I rotated the shaft around of a bit I heard a sudden THUNK and
the
> shafts suddendly got
> hard to turn. What's this? That can't be, I thought... I'll have to
open
> it up again!
>
> This is what I found. The slider was riding right up on the side of the
> laygear, being pushed there
> by it's (the hub/slider) 3 detent ball bearings which were almost free.
> Basically what had happened
> is that the hub slid (back) such that it was being pressed into the 3rd
> gear's synchro (!) which allowed
> the slider to slide so far forward that the ball bearing were able to
press
> the two pieces apart even
> more. If this had been in the car, the net effect would have been some
> worn slider/laygear from being
> pressed together, and a 3rd synchro that would have rapidly failed due to
> the car still being in 4th but
> the 3rd synchro engaged. Once the synchro wore enough, the hub and
slider
> would could, theoretically
> have been pushed far enough apart that their 3 ball bearings and springs
> would have been able to
> get out and float around the gear box.... Hmmm.... not a pretty sight
with
> all those rotating gears. You
> get the idea!
>
> So, that is the problem. I *think* that the issue is that the distance
> between the 3rd and 4th gears is too
> far apart. This would allow the hub to be able to slide too far towards
> the 3rd (etc etc). The only
> problem is that there isn't any adjustment for this separation that I can
> find (well, we'll get into a theory
> in a bit). Some of the people who are reading this *might* be saying,
no,
> the synchro could be too
> thin too. I thought of that, but the synchro is new and in good shape
> (i.e. doesn't look as though it was
> not manufactured correctly). You might also be saying that the bearings
> were not in all the way which
> would result in the input and mainshaft (output shaft) being too far
apart
> (3rd and 4th). Unfortunately I checked that
> too. The bearings are seated properly and on their retainer. And yes,
the
> 'mainshaft distance collar' (number
> 45 on the MOSS catalogs, #85 on the A-H parts manual). The split collar
on
> the outside of the transmission,
> under the cup held in by the retaining C-clip (manuals show a nut for
some
> reason, but every tranny I've seen
> has the split collar), appears to be in fairly good shape; besides, if
> anything, the split collar would PULL the
> input and mainshaft FURTHER apart!
>
> One could, I suppose, take the position that 'rattling' the first motion
> shaft back and forth isn't a good test and
> that the problem would not exist in the real world; the theory would be
> that the components would be under pressure
> and hence the hub and slider would not go in different directions.
> Unfortunately this seems both risky and not
> quite true. Any transition from the motor pushing to the motor idling
> could be interpreted as a 'rattle' that would
> cause the components to have a momentary 'nothing happening' state.
>
> Lastly, in case you are wondering, yes, the shifter did pop down
> further....... past it's detent. HEY! I think I
> got it! I didn't have the bell housing or the adapter plate on when I
> tried my test! I bet that the shifting fork
> is precluded from that much travel!
>
> WOW! This list is G-R-E-A-T!!!!! I was going to put out the question in
> the hopes that someone could help
> and here I go and figure it out while writing this. Well, I'll post this
> in the hopes that someone else will learn
> from my, ah, stupidity.
>
> --alan
>
>
> BTW, the synchros in a side shifter are bonze
>
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.QUINN at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 09:33:00 +1100
Subject: Re: 100 Head Crack Repair
G'day Perry
I don't get much of a chance to respond to the more technical questions, but
I
have had a little experience with cracked cylinder heads.
In another life time when I had a 100 I managed to blow the engine in a big
way. During the rebuild I managed to find three cylinder heads to choose
from.
All were cracked and it was a matter of choosing the best one.
This turned out to be a head that had been extensively modified for
competition. Port and polished, shaved to an inch of its life and even water
inlet holes over each inlet valve. However it was still cracked.
The engine builder was quite happy to repair the crack with what was called
stitch welding, When finished it looked as if someone had stitched the
surface
of the head with new metal. The engine was rebuilt and finally balanced and
only the Good Lord knew its compression.
I was as mad a cut snake back then, interested in a spot of motor sport and
thought nothing of revving the engine out to 6 grand. It never let me down
over four years and I never had to take the head off again. The car (Chassis
No 150616) was bought be a fellow countryman of yours and I think is in the
UK.
The water inlets over the exhaust valves worked very well and engine never
got
hot. It also works well in six cylinder cars for those who want to go to
extremes at solving their overheating problems.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia (Full of tourists and sport at the moment)
ps That was me waving at the rowing finals the other day.
>>> Healeyguy@aol.com 27/09/00 17:48:04 >>>
Listers
Looking for the collective wisdom of the list. After a valve adjustment on a
fresh (about 200 miles) 100 engine I noticed what appeared to be very small
bubbles coming from the top of the head casting between the exhaust valve
springs of cylinders 2 and 3. The dreaded 100 cracked head. The crack
appears
to be about 2-1/2 inches long arcing around the number three valve spring.
The head had been milled and supposedly checked for cracks on the combustion
chamber side but obviously not the top. The question is: What is the success
rate for a welded repair of the top of the head? Have any of you 100 owners
/
mechanics been down this road before? The water jacket must be close to the
surface in that area as I'm certain that is what the bubbles were. Thanks
and...
Aloha
Perry
From "P.M. Pollock" <pollpete at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 16:33:29 -0700
Subject: Re: BT7 side shifter transmission question (quiz, except I don't
Alan_Hantke@i2.com wrote:
> but I still think that sometimes a few of these issues can be revisited so
>that they are in our
> minds (or those of new subscribers).
Alan-
Speaking only for my own addled pate, repeats are fine. Seems I need to hear
it multiple times before it's
likely to sink in past short-term memory. As the Bellman said: "What I tell
you three times is true."
Pete Pollock
BJ7
N. California
From rfeibusch at loop.com (Richard Feibusch)
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 12:15:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: San Diego British Car Day 2000
The 21st Annual San Diego British Car Day
Sunday, October 1, 2000, 10:00am to 2:00pm
Fairbrook Farm,
4949 South Mission Road
Bonsall, California
This beautiful site offers the perfect setting to display your pride and
joy, and see hundreds of other fine British cars. Bring your own picnic
lunch, or enjoy the food offered by food vendor. Numerous regalia, parts
and hobby related vendors will be on hand to tempt your pocketbook.
This year's raffle will feature the best prizes ever!!!! A portion of this
year's raffle proceeds will be divided amongst 3 local charities.
Pre-Registration is $10.00 Day-of-Show Registration is $15.00, "Walk-in" is
$2.00. Your advance registration not only saves you $5.00, but also gains
you "express admittance!" Registration and Entrance beginning at 9:00am.
To get to Fairbrook Farm, take Hwy 76 east from Interstate 5, or Hwy 76
west from Interstate 15. Turn north on South Mission Road, proceed north .4
mile.
For more information contact Steve Kirby at: DKirby210@aol.com
We do have a web site!!!
Check out http://www.sandiegobritishcarday.org/
Or call:
Steve 760-746-9028
Maggie 858-566-6619
Joe 909-693-9094
Paul 619-575-5625
From dyaarl anderson <dyaarl at mediaone.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 16:08:40 -0400
Subject: items for sale
I have a grill badge from the Automobile association if New Zealand
dating from the 50s for $45 plus shipping, I also have a BN4 grill with
no dings for $150. plus shipping and a top surround with no dings for
$50 plus shipping. Please contact my off list. The grill and surround
need polishing.
Cheers Dyaarl
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 21:19:13 -0400
Subject: Re: items for sale
Be careful. If you read the back or bottom of that AA badge you will find
that it is the property of the Automobile Association of New Zealand!!
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
dyaarl anderson wrote:
> I have a grill badge from the Automobile association if New Zealand
> dating from the 50s for $45 plus shipping, I also have a BN4 grill with
> no dings for $150. plus shipping and a top surround with no dings for
> $50 plus shipping. Please contact my off list. The grill and surround
> need polishing.
>
> Cheers Dyaarl
From Ward Stebner <liason at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 17:58:07 -0600
Subject: Shock link color
Just wondering if someone can tell me whether the rear shock links are
painted black (including the bolts and nuts) on a 1956 Hundred? Also,
are the front sway bar links black or zinc plated on a 1956 Hundred?
Thanks in advance.
Ward Stebner
1956 Healey Hundred
Saskatoon, Canada
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 21:32:27 -0400
Subject: Shenandoah British Car Day at Waynesboro, VA
Hello, Healeyphiles and Spridgeteers!
Can someone tell me the date of the Fall show at Waynesboro, VA this year?
I have heard it will be the 7th of October, but don't have anything
official.
Thanks!
Steve Byers
Havelock, NC
From CNAArndt at aol.com
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 21:51:46 EDT
Subject: Re: 100 Head Crack Repair
Perry
I believe that I may have the person for you. I first heard about him from
my friend Phil Gallant here in Oceanside, CA. Phil comes with a lot of
credibility since he not only owns a very nice 100M and Bugeye but owns two
original Shelby Cobras which he races on the vintage circuit. From my
experience if Phil Gallant recommends a vendor, be assured that the quality
will be first rate and the expense very reasonable.
To the point, Phil recommends Jim Snyder in San Diego who in Phil's own words
is not an welder but an absolute artist! Anyway a club member just had his
100 head done by Jim for about $350-400.00, which I feel is reasonable.
Anyway, this has prompted me to take my three boat anchor heads down to his
shop to see what he can do with them. I also believe that Jim does quite a
bit of work for the San Diego Automotive Museum.
If you are interested, I planned on a trip down to his shop in the near
future and I will check things out for you if you wish. Contact me off list
if you are interested.
Cheers
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
In a message dated 09/26/2000 11:50:27 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
Healeyguy@aol.com writes:
<< Listers
Looking for the collective wisdom of the list. After a valve adjustment on a
fresh (about 200 miles) 100 engine I noticed what appeared to be very small
bubbles coming from the top of the head casting between the exhaust valve
springs of cylinders 2 and 3. The dreaded 100 cracked head. The crack
appears
to be about 2-1/2 inches long arcing around the number three valve spring.
The head had been milled and supposedly checked for cracks on the combustion
chamber side but obviously not the top. The question is: What is the success
rate for a welded repair of the top of the head? Have any of you 100 owners
/
mechanics been down this road before? The water jacket must be close to the
surface in that area as I'm certain that is what the bubbles were. Thanks
and...
Aloha
Perry >>
From Eric Kolb <macman at magpage.com>
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 22:48:01 -0400
Subject: Looking for a Project Healey
Hello listers,
I am looking for a project healey in the philadelphia area, though i
will go
as far as 2 hours away. I will consider any condition. I am not looking
far a
restored car though, because it is no fun driving an old car around if
you don't
know it inside and out and how to fix it when you are half way home and
something breaks! Besides, you get to worry about if you really knew
what you
were doing when put that brake mc back together properly. :-)
-Eric Kolb
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 20:10:50 -0700
Subject: temperature gauge tweaking
Hi all,
I tested my temperature gauge by removing the sending unit, putting it
in near boiling water and comparing the instrument gauge with a cooking
thermometer. The instrument gauge is reading about 30 degrees too cold.
Is there a way to adjust the temperature gauge?
Thanks,
John Loftus
BJ7
From Healeyguy at aol.com
Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 00:02:58 EDT
Subject: Re: 100 Head Crack Repair-Update
Listers
Thanks to John H, John C, Andy, Dave, Brian, Roland, Ian, Keith and Patrick
on the responses to my question. I have also talked to one of the local motor
rebuilders and done some homework on the web. There appears to be two current
basic approaches to repairing a non-combustion chamber cast iron head crack.
There is the route that takes you to a highly skilled welder of cast iron
(read few and far between) that requires the head to be preheated to
amazingly high temperatures, 1200 to 1800 degrees F. (Will a 45 year old head
withstand that?) Or use a method that was originated in the 20's, probably
earlier on non-auto related cast iron stuff, that involves drilling, tapping
and installing with red Locktite (they didn't have that in the 20's!)
overlapping plugs along the length of the crack. This is called cold welding
or stitching in the cast iron repair business. There are several suppliers
out there with neat plugs and associated paraphernalia and a lot more machine
shops capable of doing the repair. The consensus is that welds are tricky to
do and often recrack in adjacent material. The cold welding (stitching) is
very reliable as long as you can get a drill and tap to the crack location,
and all (I didn't check with them all, just quoting some literature) of the
major engine and head rebuilders use that method. So as the Queen said to
Alice, "Off with her head!" Which reminds me I haven't a name for the red
car. Maybe "Red" is her nickname. I'll keep you apprised of the progress and
if anyone else has input, please send it along.
Aloha
Perry
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 17:05:12 +1000
Subject: Re: 100 Head Crack Repair
>
> ps That was me waving at the rowing finals the other day.
>
I was wondering who that was.
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 06:05:39 -0700
Subject: RE: Healey Spotted in Centralia, WA
Let's get it right. That's 10-6.
Sheesh.
Jonathan Lane
Retail Sales
Moss Motors, Ltd.
(800) 235-6954 x3240
(805) 692-2525 - Fax
lanej@mossmotors.com
-----Original Message-----
From: MBran89793@aol.com [mailto:MBran89793@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2000 10:27 AM
To: nljm@home.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Healey Spotted in Centralia, WA
In a message dated 9/27/00 1:19:58 PM Eastern Daylight Time, nljm@home.com
writes:
<< a beautifully restored 10-Six and those are the original colors. >>
Can't resist this one.
And in what years were the 10-Six manufactured?
Marion
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 07:56:37 -0600
Subject: Re: Healey Spotted in Centralia, WA
Breaker, Breaker That's a big 10-4 Come back
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{) 54 BN1
Click below for webpage and mopeds:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej@mossmotors.com>
To: <MBran89793@aol.com>; <nljm@home.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 28, 2000 7:05 AM
Subject: RE: Healey Spotted in Centralia, WA
>
> Let's get it right. That's 10-6.
>
> Sheesh.
>
> Jonathan Lane
> Retail Sales
> Moss Motors, Ltd.
> (800) 235-6954 x3240
> (805) 692-2525 - Fax
> lanej@mossmotors.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: MBran89793@aol.com [mailto:MBran89793@aol.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2000 10:27 AM
> To: nljm@home.com; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Healey Spotted in Centralia, WA
>
>
>
> In a message dated 9/27/00 1:19:58 PM Eastern Daylight Time, nljm@home.com
> writes:
>
> << a beautifully restored 10-Six and those are the original colors. >>
>
> Can't resist this one.
> And in what years were the 10-Six manufactured?
>
> Marion
>
From "Donald L. Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 09:31:35 -0500
Subject: Cell Phones and Accidents (Only partially concerns Austin Healeys)
I ran across this article regarding the use of cell phones and thought it
might provoke some discussion on the list as to whether or not cell phones
are worth having as an emergency tool or whether they create more
emergencies than they solve.
Discussion is now open.
In a study on rats, a researcher has found that microwaves similar to those
emitted by cell phones were associated with "diminished long-term memory and
navigation skills."
In the study by Henry Lai, a professor of bioengineering at the University
of Washington in Seattle, 100 microwave-exposed rats were placed in a large
tank of water and trained to swim to a submerged platform. The water was
clouded with powdered milk in order to force the rats to rely on memory to
find their way to the platform. The rats were then allowed four attempts to
locate the platform during six training sessions.
When Lai compared the rats' navigation skills with those that had not been
exposed to microwaves, he found the irradiated rats were significantly
slower in finding the platform during the training sessions. They also
tended to spend more time attempting to climb the wall of the pool, or
swimming along the wall.
Researchers then removed the platform and watched what happened when the
rats were put back into the pool. They found the microwave-exposed rats
behaved more randomly and were less inclined to search for the platform.
"They seemed to have trouble making a map in their heads so they could
recall where the platform was," Lai said.
The Lai study follows an earlier round of reports that linked cell phones to
cancer. However, even scientists active in establishing health risks agree
that the most significant risk of cell phones is in the number of road
accidents associated with their use.
Don
BN7 (Had thought about getting a cellphone)
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 10:41:06 EDT
Subject: Re: Cell Phones and Accidents (Only partially concerns Austin Healeys)
What is the first thing you do when you have an accident on LBJ Freeway in
north Dallas?
Hang up the cell phone!
From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 08:01:46 -0700
Subject: 141-050 overdrive throttle switch.
Hey, this is that wierd little overdrive kickdown switch that we list as
unavailable in our catalog, but it looks like we stumbled on to a couple of
them and might be able to get more. If anyone needs one let me know.
Jonathan Lane
Retail Sales
Moss Motors, Ltd.
(800) 235-6954 x3240
(805) 692-2525 - Fax
lanej@mossmotors.com
From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 08:20:48 -0700
Subject: RE: 141-050 overdrive throttle switch.
By the way, cost on these things is not cheap. They are $187.50. They are
made in the UK but are not NOS Lucas. They do look pretty good though.
Jonathan Lane
Retail Sales
Moss Motors, Ltd.
(800) 235-6954 x3240
(805) 692-2525 - Fax
lanej@mossmotors.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Lane, Jonathan [mailto:lanej@mossmotors.com]
Sent: Thursday, September 28, 2000 8:02 AM
To: Healeys (E-mail)
Subject: 141-050 overdrive throttle switch.
Hey, this is that wierd little overdrive kickdown switch that we list as
unavailable in our catalog, but it looks like we stumbled on to a couple of
them and might be able to get more. If anyone needs one let me know.
Jonathan Lane
Retail Sales
Moss Motors, Ltd.
(800) 235-6954 x3240
(805) 692-2525 - Fax
lanej@mossmotors.com
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 11:45:34 EDT
Subject: RE: Healey Spotted in Centralia, WA (10-6)
hmmm...
I was thinking that Gary I had done a fair job with showing the proper use os
the spelled out "Six" for the "100".
I guess on the "10" that you go could use either "6" or "Six".
But for answer to original post without being silly, the 100 Six was made
from '56-'59.
Rick
San Diego
In a message dated 9/28/00 6:11:52 AM, lanej@mossmotors.com wrote:
<<
Let's get it right. That's 10-6.
Sheesh.
Jonathan Lane
Retail Sales
Moss Motors, Ltd.
(800) 235-6954 x3240
(805) 692-2525 - Fax
lanej@mossmotors.com
-----Original Message-----
From: MBran89793@aol.com [mailto:MBran89793@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2000 10:27 AM
To: nljm@home.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Healey Spotted in Centralia, WA
In a message dated 9/27/00 1:19:58 PM Eastern Daylight Time, nljm@home.com
writes:
<< a beautifully restored 10-Six and those are the original colors. >>
Can't resist this one.
And in what years were the 10-Six manufactured?
Marion
>>
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 12:15:23 EDT
Subject: Re: Cell Phones and Accidents (Only partially concerns Austin Healeys)
In a message dated 9/28/00 7:33:41 AM, dyarber@dynasty.net writes:
<<
The Lai study follows an earlier round of reports that linked cell phones to
cancer. However, even scientists active in establishing health risks agree
that the most significant risk of cell phones is in the number of road
accidents associated with their use.
Don
BN7 (Had thought about getting a cellphone) >>
Now only if it were true that extended cell phone use caused infertility.
Something I've also wished about rap music played at very high volumes from
passing cars.
If anyone is seriously worried about this risk, the consensus is that cell
phone use would have to be almost continuous to have any negative effects.
Of course, it appears that some people use them that way, but i doubt most of
us do. If you were really concerned, you could always get the optional
earphone/microphone and just keep the cellphone away from your brain.
But, let's not argue cell phone medical studies, please.
Sorry I brought it up.
Cheers
Gary
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 15:31:03 -0400
Subject: RE: Cell Phones and Accidents (Only partially concerns Austin Hea
I can't remember the car I drove here in and I can't find my cell phone. ;-)
Between the cell phone and the beer I have drunk in my youth.. I'm all out
of
brain cells... Please don't put me in a tank of powdered milk....
Can I have another lager??!!! ;-)
Steve
'61 BN7
-----Original Message-----
From: Donald L. Yarber [mailto:dyarber@dynasty.net]
Sent: Thursday, September 28, 2000 10:32 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: Cell Phones and Accidents (Only partially concerns Austin
Healeys)
I ran across this article regarding the use of cell phones and thought it
might provoke some discussion on the list as to whether or not cell phones
are worth having as an emergency tool or whether they create more
emergencies than they solve.
Discussion is now open.
In a study on rats, a researcher has found that microwaves similar to those
emitted by cell phones were associated with "diminished long-term memory and
navigation skills."
In the study by Henry Lai, a professor of bioengineering at the University
of Washington in Seattle, 100 microwave-exposed rats were placed in a large
tank of water and trained to swim to a submerged platform. The water was
clouded with powdered milk in order to force the rats to rely on memory to
find their way to the platform. The rats were then allowed four attempts to
locate the platform during six training sessions.
When Lai compared the rats' navigation skills with those that had not been
exposed to microwaves, he found the irradiated rats were significantly
slower in finding the platform during the training sessions. They also
tended to spend more time attempting to climb the wall of the pool, or
swimming along the wall.
Researchers then removed the platform and watched what happened when the
rats were put back into the pool. They found the microwave-exposed rats
behaved more randomly and were less inclined to search for the platform.
"They seemed to have trouble making a map in their heads so they could
recall where the platform was," Lai said.
The Lai study follows an earlier round of reports that linked cell phones to
cancer. However, even scientists active in establishing health risks agree
that the most significant risk of cell phones is in the number of road
accidents associated with their use.
Don
BN7 (Had thought about getting a cellphone)
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 13:13:04 -0700
Subject: published cam timing
I have been using desktop dyno software and the predictions are right on for
the 100S and the assumptions I've made about it. But, not for the 3000. What
cfm does a HD8 carb flow? Are the shop manual specs for the camshaft events
taken from the point of lift off from the seat or at .050 (typical American
spec) away from the seat.
Thanks,
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
From jclose at sduhsd.k12.ca.us
Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 15:18:56 -0800
Subject: Re:RE: Cell Phones and Accidents (Only partially concerns Au
Only after you've found the platform.
From "Jack Rosen" <jack_rosen at hotmail.com>
Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 21:13:30 GMT
Subject: Re: Cell Phones and Accidents (Only partially concerns Austin Healeys)
Its been my contention that the Brain Tumors
come first, then people go buy cell phones.
jr
>From: "Donald L. Yarber" <dyarber@dynasty.net>
>Reply-To: "Donald L. Yarber" <dyarber@dynasty.net>
>To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Cell Phones and Accidents (Only partially concerns Austin Healeys)
>Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 09:31:35 -0500
>
>I ran across this article regarding the use of cell phones and thought it
>might provoke some discussion on the list as to whether or not cell phones
>are worth having as an emergency tool or whether they create more
>emergencies than they solve.
>
>Discussion is now open.
>
>In a study on rats, a researcher has found that microwaves similar to those
>emitted by cell phones were associated with "diminished long-term memory
>and
>navigation skills."
>
>In the study by Henry Lai, a professor of bioengineering at the University
>of Washington in Seattle, 100 microwave-exposed rats were placed in a large
>tank of water and trained to swim to a submerged platform. The water was
>clouded with powdered milk in order to force the rats to rely on memory to
>find their way to the platform. The rats were then allowed four attempts to
>locate the platform during six training sessions.
>
>When Lai compared the rats' navigation skills with those that had not been
>exposed to microwaves, he found the irradiated rats were significantly
>slower in finding the platform during the training sessions. They also
>tended to spend more time attempting to climb the wall of the pool, or
>swimming along the wall.
>
>Researchers then removed the platform and watched what happened when the
>rats were put back into the pool. They found the microwave-exposed rats
>behaved more randomly and were less inclined to search for the platform.
>
>"They seemed to have trouble making a map in their heads so they could
>recall where the platform was," Lai said.
>
>The Lai study follows an earlier round of reports that linked cell phones
>to
>cancer. However, even scientists active in establishing health risks agree
>that the most significant risk of cell phones is in the number of road
>accidents associated with their use.
>
>Don
>BN7 (Had thought about getting a cellphone)
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________________
From MRunci at aol.com
Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 19:13:18 EDT
Subject: British Car Mechanic in Portland ME
Fellow Listers:
A friend from the UK who is touring the northeastearn US in his prewar Alvis
as part of an organized car club tour blew his head gasket today. While he
has a replacement with him, we are looking for an experienced British car
mechanic in the Portland ME area to do the job.
Does anyone on this list have any suggestions?
Matt Runci '67 BJ8
'56 BN2
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 18:24:00 -0500
Subject: Re: published cam timing
Ken:
The Bentley manual specs on the cam are taken seat to seat. The lift is
.368 at the valve, the gap is .012 and the valve timing is straight up.
The carbs/manifold/head flow a lot less than you might think. For a rough
estimate without a flow bench use the hp at the flywheel times 125% equals
the total maximum flow of both carbs in CFMs at 14.7 inches water. In the
AH, it's the head that restricts the system flow not the carbs.
When you see the big flow numbers published by the US carb manufacturers,
they are measuring the flow at 2 of even 2.5 bar - real misleading. A
Holley 750, for example, may only flow about 300 or 325 CFM at 14.7 inches
of water.
Best regards,
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
What
>cfm does a HD8 carb flow? Are the shop manual specs for the camshaft events
>taken from the point of lift off from the seat or at .050 (typical American
>spec) away from the seat.
>Thanks,
>
>Ken Freese
>65 BJ8
>
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 20:27:16 EDT
Subject: Setting timing in the field
The other day my distributor clamp came loose, allowing it to disenegage from
the camshaft drive. I was able to reengage it and get started again but my
timing was off. So my question is: How do I reset--approximately-- the
timing in the field (without a light)?
Michael Oritt, BN1
From "Ron Schonscheck" <schonny at y2consult.com>
Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 10:28:49 -0600
Subject: Re: Cell Phones and Accidents (Only partially concerns Austin Healeys)
I'd stay away from um.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Rosen" <jack_rosen@hotmail.com>
To: <dyarber@dynasty.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 28, 2000 3:13 PM
Subject: Re: Cell Phones and Accidents (Only partially concerns Austin
Healeys)
>
> Its been my contention that the Brain Tumors
> come first, then people go buy cell phones.
>
> jr
>
>
>
> >From: "Donald L. Yarber" <dyarber@dynasty.net>
> >Reply-To: "Donald L. Yarber" <dyarber@dynasty.net>
> >To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> >Subject: Cell Phones and Accidents (Only partially concerns Austin
Healeys)
> >Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 09:31:35 -0500
> >
> >I ran across this article regarding the use of cell phones and thought it
> >might provoke some discussion on the list as to whether or not cell
phones
> >are worth having as an emergency tool or whether they create more
> >emergencies than they solve.
> >
> >Discussion is now open.
> >
> >In a study on rats, a researcher has found that microwaves similar to
those
> >emitted by cell phones were associated with "diminished long-term memory
> >and
> >navigation skills."
> >
> >In the study by Henry Lai, a professor of bioengineering at the
University
> >of Washington in Seattle, 100 microwave-exposed rats were placed in a
large
> >tank of water and trained to swim to a submerged platform. The water was
> >clouded with powdered milk in order to force the rats to rely on memory
to
> >find their way to the platform. The rats were then allowed four attempts
to
> >locate the platform during six training sessions.
> >
> >When Lai compared the rats' navigation skills with those that had not
been
> >exposed to microwaves, he found the irradiated rats were significantly
> >slower in finding the platform during the training sessions. They also
> >tended to spend more time attempting to climb the wall of the pool, or
> >swimming along the wall.
> >
> >Researchers then removed the platform and watched what happened when the
> >rats were put back into the pool. They found the microwave-exposed rats
> >behaved more randomly and were less inclined to search for the platform.
> >
> >"They seemed to have trouble making a map in their heads so they could
> >recall where the platform was," Lai said.
> >
> >The Lai study follows an earlier round of reports that linked cell phones
> >to
> >cancer. However, even scientists active in establishing health risks
agree
> >that the most significant risk of cell phones is in the number of road
> >accidents associated with their use.
> >
> >Don
> >BN7 (Had thought about getting a cellphone)
> >
> >
> >
>
> _________________________________________________________________________
>
>
>
From "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 18:33:16 -0700
Subject: Re: 141-050 overdrive throttle switch.
These OD throttle switches are available from AH Spares in the UK for
69.50 UKP plus shipping, about $120 total. http://www.ahspares.co.uk
I've used them a number of times and although the shipping costs make
you cringe, it's still cheaper than the US sources although you must
be willing to wait 2 weeks. There's alot to be said for Moss Motor's
overnight and 2 day shipping.
Mark Fawcett
----- Original Message -----
From: Lane, Jonathan <lanej@mossmotors.com>
To: Healeys (E-mail) <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 28, 2000 8:20 AM
Subject: RE: 141-050 overdrive throttle switch.
>
>
>
> By the way, cost on these things is not cheap. They are $187.50.
They are
> made in the UK but are not NOS Lucas. They do look pretty good
though.
>
> Jonathan Lane
> Retail Sales
> Moss Motors, Ltd.
> (800) 235-6954 x3240
> (805) 692-2525 - Fax
> lanej@mossmotors.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Lane, Jonathan [mailto:lanej@mossmotors.com]
> Sent: Thursday, September 28, 2000 8:02 AM
> To: Healeys (E-mail)
> Subject: 141-050 overdrive throttle switch.
>
>
>
> Hey, this is that wierd little overdrive kickdown switch that we
list as
> unavailable in our catalog, but it looks like we stumbled on to a
couple of
> them and might be able to get more. If anyone needs one let me
know.
>
> Jonathan Lane
> Retail Sales
> Moss Motors, Ltd.
> (800) 235-6954 x3240
> (805) 692-2525 - Fax
> lanej@mossmotors.com
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 00:24:42 -0400
Subject: Re: Setting timing in the field
Michael,
A good seat of the pants procedure, which only works well on 4 cylinder
cars, is to reposition the distributor so that the motor runs, then advance
(rotate clockwise) until it just pings, then back off a tad and tighten the
clamp. If it pings once you have started back on the road you can turn the
little spring-loaded knurled knob on the side of the distributor (fastening
the vacuum advance) towards
"R" (clockwise) to retard, without loosening the clamp again and re-twisting
the whole distributor. If the little nubbie is still there to
make it click the formula is 5 clicks per degree of timing.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 28, 2000 8:27 PM
Subject: Setting timing in the field
>
> The other day my distributor clamp came loose, allowing it to disenegage
from
> the camshaft drive. I was able to reengage it and get started again but
my
> timing was off. So my question is: How do I reset--approximately-- the
> timing in the field (without a light)?
>
> Michael Oritt, BN1
From "William A Boylan" <WNBOYLAN at prodigy.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 22:08:52 -0700
Subject: Re: Cell Phones and Accidents (Only partially concerns Austin Healeys)
Good lord man, haven't you got anything beter to do?
B. Boylan
60BT7
----- Original Message -----
From: Donald L. Yarber <dyarber@dynasty.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 28, 2000 7:31 AM
Subject: Cell Phones and Accidents (Only partially concerns Austin Healeys)
>
> I ran across this article regarding the use of cell phones and thought it
> might provoke some discussion on the list as to whether or not cell phones
> are worth having as an emergency tool or whether they create more
> emergencies than they solve.
>
> Discussion is now open.
>
> In a study on rats, a researcher has found that microwaves similar to
those
> emitted by cell phones were associated with "diminished long-term memory
and
> navigation skills."
>
> In the study by Henry Lai, a professor of bioengineering at the University
> of Washington in Seattle, 100 microwave-exposed rats were placed in a
large
> tank of water and trained to swim to a submerged platform. The water was
> clouded with powdered milk in order to force the rats to rely on memory to
> find their way to the platform. The rats were then allowed four attempts
to
> locate the platform during six training sessions.
>
> When Lai compared the rats' navigation skills with those that had not been
> exposed to microwaves, he found the irradiated rats were significantly
> slower in finding the platform during the training sessions. They also
> tended to spend more time attempting to climb the wall of the pool, or
> swimming along the wall.
>
> Researchers then removed the platform and watched what happened when the
> rats were put back into the pool. They found the microwave-exposed rats
> behaved more randomly and were less inclined to search for the platform.
>
> "They seemed to have trouble making a map in their heads so they could
> recall where the platform was," Lai said.
>
> The Lai study follows an earlier round of reports that linked cell phones
to
> cancer. However, even scientists active in establishing health risks agree
> that the most significant risk of cell phones is in the number of road
> accidents associated with their use.
>
> Don
> BN7 (Had thought about getting a cellphone)
>
>
>
From "Graham Healey" <Graham_Healey at lse.com.au>
Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 16:44:44 +1100
Subject: IF YOU GET A TRAFFIC TICKET
This was sent to me by a friend & I thought some might be interested. Of
course non of "Us Speed!!" or drive recklessly, we are all just Mr/Mrs/Miss
Average, we all drive with the correct tyres, drive without using cell
phones, and really love Truck drivers.
So because of that non can slate me for sending this message????????
Cheers to all
Graham
IF YOU GET A TRAFFIC TICKET
> >
> > Just thought I would share this with you. As you know work
> > in the ticket enforcement division and in the course of my
> > investigation into "fines, their payment methods, and how
> > points are assessed against drivers
> > licenses" we discovered something very interesting.
> >
> > So if you ever get in the following situation, you have an out.
> >
> > We discovered that this procedure works in every state. Read
> > it and try it, you have nothing to lose but the points on
> > your license.
> >
> > THIS IS HOW IT WORKS:
> > If you get a speeding ticket or went through a red light or
> > whatever the case may be, and you are going to get points on
> > your license, then there is a method to ensure that you DO
> > NOT get any points.
> >
> > When you get your fine, send in the check to pay for it and
> > if the fine is say, $79, then make the check out for $82 or
> > some small amount over the fine. The system will then have to
> > sen you back a check for the difference, but here is the trick!
> >
> > ***DO NOT CASH THE REFUND CHECK!!!***
> >
> > Throw it away!! Points are not assessed to your license
> > until all financial transactions are complete. If you do
> > not cash the check, then the transactions are NOT complete.
> > However, the system has gotten its money
> > and is happy and will not bother you any more.
> >
> > This information came to our attention from a very reliable
> > computer company that sets up the standard database used by
> > each states' DMV.
From "Steve Jowett" <enquiries at ukhealey.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 09:59:44 +0100
Subject: Re: 141-050 overdrive throttle switch.
The kick down (throttle s/w) are now re-manufactured and available in the
UK. Priced around £64.00 UK. Comes with lever.
Steve Jowett
UK Healey Centre
www.ukhealey.co.uk
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 09:23:53 -0400
Subject: Valve guide clearances "long"
My turn to ask for some help from the group.
I'm having some serious problems with the valve guide clearances on an
MGB engine. The following is a summary of the problem to date as
included in a letter to the vehicle owner.
Any factual input would be appreciated. I am aware that there are
several references to additional clearance requirements for bronze valve
guides on the net but no realistic analyses of the underlying cause of
problems.
Here are the letter contents.
"A study of the notes and documents associated with the problem that you
are having with your car confirms the following.
1. The original cylinder head that you brought to us had a large radial
crack emanating from the number 2 cylinder exhaust valve guide drilling.
2. In the replacement head that we provided, AND THAT YOU FITTED, the
number 2 exhaust valve seized in its guide very soon after the engine
was started after installation of the head.
3. After we had removed and replaced the same head FOR YOU, AT NO CHARGE
TO YOU, and provided additional clearance in that guide the same valve
again seized in its guide after a few minutes of highway driving.
>From these facts alone we can conclude
1. Number 2 exhaust valve is the only valve that has given problems.
2. These problems began relatively recently because the engine has run
satisfactorily in its existing, modified state, for some ten years prior
to this problem.
3. If this problem was due to insufficient clearance between the valves
and the guides and the guides and valves were being subject to the same
conditions either number 1, 3 or 4 would have seized before number 2
during the last incident because number 2 has been provided with more
clearance than the other three.
4. As the head casting, valves, and guides have all been changed and the
problem persists it is unlikely that those components, all of which
could have been suspect, are the root cause of the problem.
5. Very possibly the area around the exhaust valve, the exhaust valve
itself, or the exhaust port in general around number 2 valve and number
2 valve only, is being seriously over heated.
6. It is possible that providing additional but excessive clearance for
the valve in number 2 exhaust guide will resolve the problem however
this is really a process of treating the symptom not the cause and other
problems, such as the cracking of the replacement head in a similar
fashion to the previous head are likely to occur.
As I previously stated the correct procedure for resolving this problem
is to look elsewhere for a cause. Continuing to make modifications to
treat a symptom will not result in a satisfactory resolution.
The engine in your car has been extensively modified from its original
configuration including the installation of a Weber DCOE twin choke
carburetor and aftermarket manifolds.
As I previously indicated we believe that this is the most likely source
of the problem. If a jet in this carburetor had become blocked or
partially blocked this would cause a lean mixture on one pair of
cylinders at some particular operating condition. As explained earlier
the carburetor and inlet manifold configuration that you have installed
to this engine is well know to provide a leaner mixture to the inner
pair of cylinders, thus number 2 cylinder would have a very lean mixture
in these circumstances.
Lean mixtures causes massive increases in combustion and therefore
exhaust temperatures. This condition may only be detectable during an
extensive rolling road test with thermocouples attached to each exhaust
header pipe. It is most unlikely that someone unfamiliar with this
modified vehicle’s performance characteristics would detect any problem
when driving the car particularly when the louder than normal exhaust
noise is considered. Furthermore you indicated in your e-mail of 25 Sept
that “After making a horrible backfiring noise the car stopped.” If
indeed the problem was a blocked jet this can cause backfiring and it is
very likely that this backfiring blew the obstruction from the jet
making a conclusive analysis of the problem very improbable.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 10:32:11 EDT
Subject: Broken Spoke Question
Hi,
I have 48 spoke chrome wheels on my Erika. After a 250 mile drive in the
Sierras last Saturday, I notice yesterday that one (1) spoke (short spoke) is
broken on a rear wheel.
Question. Is it safe to continue to drive with a single broken spoke, or
should I have it repaired immediately?
Thanks
John
100-Six Erika the Red
From "Ron Schonscheck" <schonny at y2consult.com>
Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 00:40:00 -0600
Subject: Re: Valve guide clearances "long"
Very interesting in that I race am MGB and last year I had a very similar
problem. Can't remember if it was #2 or not but I pulled the head 4 times,
the machine shop who is quite reputable enlarged the bronze guides each time
with no permanent fix. The last time we went back to the standard inserts
and I am still running it. I have used bronze guides in all kinds of
engines for many years and never had this problem before so I don't
understand this. Good Luck
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@home.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 29, 2000 7:23 AM
Subject: Valve guide clearances "long"
>
> My turn to ask for some help from the group.
>
> I'm having some serious problems with the valve guide clearances on an
> MGB engine. The following is a summary of the problem to date as
> included in a letter to the vehicle owner.
>
> Any factual input would be appreciated. I am aware that there are
> several references to additional clearance requirements for bronze valve
> guides on the net but no realistic analyses of the underlying cause of
> problems.
> Here are the letter contents.
>
> "A study of the notes and documents associated with the problem that you
> are having with your car confirms the following.
>
> 1. The original cylinder head that you brought to us had a large radial
> crack emanating from the number 2 cylinder exhaust valve guide drilling.
>
> 2. In the replacement head that we provided, AND THAT YOU FITTED, the
> number 2 exhaust valve seized in its guide very soon after the engine
> was started after installation of the head.
> 3. After we had removed and replaced the same head FOR YOU, AT NO CHARGE
> TO YOU, and provided additional clearance in that guide the same valve
> again seized in its guide after a few minutes of highway driving.
>
> >From these facts alone we can conclude
>
> 1. Number 2 exhaust valve is the only valve that has given problems.
> 2. These problems began relatively recently because the engine has run
> satisfactorily in its existing, modified state, for some ten years prior
> to this problem.
> 3. If this problem was due to insufficient clearance between the valves
> and the guides and the guides and valves were being subject to the same
> conditions either number 1, 3 or 4 would have seized before number 2
> during the last incident because number 2 has been provided with more
> clearance than the other three.
> 4. As the head casting, valves, and guides have all been changed and the
> problem persists it is unlikely that those components, all of which
> could have been suspect, are the root cause of the problem.
> 5. Very possibly the area around the exhaust valve, the exhaust valve
> itself, or the exhaust port in general around number 2 valve and number
> 2 valve only, is being seriously over heated.
> 6. It is possible that providing additional but excessive clearance for
> the valve in number 2 exhaust guide will resolve the problem however
> this is really a process of treating the symptom not the cause and other
> problems, such as the cracking of the replacement head in a similar
> fashion to the previous head are likely to occur.
>
> As I previously stated the correct procedure for resolving this problem
> is to look elsewhere for a cause. Continuing to make modifications to
> treat a symptom will not result in a satisfactory resolution.
> The engine in your car has been extensively modified from its original
> configuration including the installation of a Weber DCOE twin choke
> carburetor and aftermarket manifolds.
> As I previously indicated we believe that this is the most likely source
> of the problem. If a jet in this carburetor had become blocked or
> partially blocked this would cause a lean mixture on one pair of
> cylinders at some particular operating condition. As explained earlier
> the carburetor and inlet manifold configuration that you have installed
> to this engine is well know to provide a leaner mixture to the inner
> pair of cylinders, thus number 2 cylinder would have a very lean mixture
> in these circumstances.
> Lean mixtures causes massive increases in combustion and therefore
> exhaust temperatures. This condition may only be detectable during an
> extensive rolling road test with thermocouples attached to each exhaust
> header pipe. It is most unlikely that someone unfamiliar with this
> modified vehicle's performance characteristics would detect any problem
> when driving the car particularly when the louder than normal exhaust
> noise is considered. Furthermore you indicated in your e-mail of 25 Sept
> that "After making a horrible backfiring noise the car stopped." If
> indeed the problem was a blocked jet this can cause backfiring and it is
> very likely that this backfiring blew the obstruction from the jet
> making a conclusive analysis of the problem very improbable.
>
>
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
>
>
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 11:26:12 -0400
Subject: Re: Broken Spoke Question
JSoderling@aol.com wrote:
> Hi,
> I have 48 spoke chrome wheels on my Erika. After a 250 mile drive in the
> Sierras last Saturday, I notice yesterday that one (1) spoke (short spoke) is
> broken on a rear wheel.
> Question. Is it safe to continue to drive with a single broken spoke, or
> should I have it repaired immediately?
> Thanks
> John
> 100-Six Erika the Red
Hi John,
It may be that that particular spoke was cracked or somehow previously damaged
causing the failure but I have found that 48 spoke wheels have trouble handling
the side loads imparted by modern tires when anything but very moderate driving
is involved. You have to drive a car with old style bias ply tires to realize
just how far tire technology has come.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 08:33:17 -0700
Subject: RE: Broken Spoke Question
I have never thought that the 48 spoke wheels are really strong enough for
the weight and power of a big Healey. Plus when they chrome the spokes they
have a tendency to get brittle. The new Dunlop chromies are using stainless
spokes now so they are better, but I would still be reluctant to use 48
spoke wheels.
Jonathan Lane
-----Original Message-----
From: JSoderling@aol.com [mailto:JSoderling@aol.com]
Sent: Friday, September 29, 2000 7:32 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net; magicare@home.com
Subject: Broken Spoke Question
Hi,
I have 48 spoke chrome wheels on my Erika. After a 250 mile drive in the
Sierras last Saturday, I notice yesterday that one (1) spoke (short spoke)
is
broken on a rear wheel.
Question. Is it safe to continue to drive with a single broken spoke, or
should I have it repaired immediately?
Thanks
John
100-Six Erika the Red
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 08:11:36 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Broken Spoke Question
John,
The 48-spoke wheels are already marginal. They were not all that strong
originally, and given that almost everyone now fits them with radial tires
that cause much greater stress to the wheels, the 48-spoke wheels
particularly should be a frequent inspection point for owners.
If you have one broken spoke it is likely that you have others that are also
not bearing their share of the load (not properly adjusted) and/or are close
to breaking themselves. I would recommend taking it VERY easy on your
wheels and getting it repaired as soon as practicable. If the wheels were
on the car when you bought it, and you therefore don't know their age or how
they were treated in the past, you might consider getting all of them tuned
or even replacing them with safer, stronger 60-spoke wheels.
Cheers,
Reid
On Fri, 29 Sep 2000 10:32:11 EDT, JSoderling@aol.com wrote:
>
> Hi,
> I have 48 spoke chrome wheels on my Erika. After a 250 mile drive in the
> Sierras last Saturday, I notice yesterday that one (1) spoke (short
spoke) is
> broken on a rear wheel.
> Question. Is it safe to continue to drive with a single broken spoke, or
> should I have it repaired immediately?
> Thanks
> John
> 100-Six Erika the Red
>
>
_______________________________________________________
Say Bye to Slow Internet!
http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 11:39:05 EDT
Subject: Re: Broken Spoke Question
Adding to what Mike said, what that means is basically that the wheel is
pretty weak. More than likely if a spoke has broken the wheel is flexing too
much laterally. The car drive that way for a long time, but it's not a good
idea.
A respoke is in order, or better, new 60 spoke wheels.
Rick
San Diego
In a message dated 9/29/00 8:27:01 AM, magicare@home.com wrote:
<<
JSoderling@aol.com wrote:
> Hi,
> I have 48 spoke chrome wheels on my Erika. After a 250 mile drive in the
> Sierras last Saturday, I notice yesterday that one (1) spoke (short spoke)
is
> broken on a rear wheel.
> Question. Is it safe to continue to drive with a single broken spoke, or
> should I have it repaired immediately?
> Thanks
> John
> 100-Six Erika the Red
Hi John,
It may be that that particular spoke was cracked or somehow previously damaged
causing the failure but I have found that 48 spoke wheels have trouble
handling
the side loads imparted by modern tires when anything but very moderate
driving
is involved. You have to drive a car with old style bias ply tires to realize
just how far tire technology has come.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>
From Olin Kane <kanes at frontier.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 09:55:46 -0600
Subject: Re: Broken Spoke Question
The correct answer is to repair immediately. However, I'm sure that there
are many, many wire wheel cars out there running around on broken
spokes. I have had several myself and did not notice them immediately. I
don't think a broken spoke is a dangerous situation particularly in normal
driving situations.
The best way to determine if you have a broken spoke is to rotate the tires
occasionally. When you remove the wheel, the broken end that has been
trapped under the wheel hub will fall onto the garage floor.
At 10:32 AM 9/29/00 -0400, JSoderling@aol.com wrote:
>Hi,
>I have 48 spoke chrome wheels on my Erika. After a 250 mile drive in the
>Sierras last Saturday, I notice yesterday that one (1) spoke (short spoke) is
>broken on a rear wheel.
>Question. Is it safe to continue to drive with a single broken spoke, or
>should I have it repaired immediately?
>Thanks
>John
>100-Six Erika the Red
>
Olin Kane
BJ7
Durango, CO
From JMcD206 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 12:05:29 EDT
Subject: Re: Broken Spoke Question
John,
I just got my 100-Six in July. When I drove it to our Club meeting one of the
members noticed that I had 6 broken spokes. He advised me to get the wheel off
as soon as I could. I drove very gingerly home (about 6 miles).
I counted the broken spokes again when I got the car in the garage and I had 13
broken spokes on the same wheel.
Bottom line.---get fix or replaced.
Jim McDermott
1957 100-Six BN4
Cascade Austin Healey Club
In a message dated Fri, 29 Sep 2000 10:34:41 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
JSoderling@aol.com writes:
<<
Hi,
I have 48 spoke chrome wheels on my Erika. After a 250 mile drive in the
Sierras last Saturday, I notice yesterday that one (1) spoke (short spoke) is
broken on a rear wheel.
Question. Is it safe to continue to drive with a single broken spoke, or
should I have it repaired immediately?
Thanks
John
100-Six Erika the Red
>>
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 12:16:12 -0400
Subject: racin'
SVRA races at Summit Point, West (by God) Virginia this weekend;
Morgan is featured marque, I believe.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
From "S.HUTCHINGS" <hutching at myna.com>
Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 13:18:46 -0400
Subject: Just a test
This is just a test to see if my E-mail is working.
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 13:19:44 -0400
Subject: roadside reset correcton
Gary, Michael, and folks,
I re-read my post on setting timing in the field and realized I should have
phrased things a little different. Instead of "advance (rotate clockwise)
until it just pings" I should have said "advance...until it just begins to
stumble or run rough." Sorry about that. It only "pings" under load.
Gary, I've never tried this procedure on a 6 cylinder. The guru who
enlightened me said it was valid only for 4's, and I was too involved in
other things right then to ask him why. My guess, and it's just a guess, is
that you have to rotate the distributor much further on a 6 cylinder car
before you get to bad running, since a 6 cylinder motor is innately more
smoother-running than a 4 cylinder. Next time I'm tuning I'll give it a
shot and report findings.
And here's another approach: I know a Healey guy that had a pretty neat
personal technique for setting his timing. As a student he could not afford
an expensive tool like a timing light, so he would set a glass half full (or
half empty, depending on your outlook) of water on the valve cover and
adjust the distributor until the agitation of the water surface was at
minimum. I suspect this gave him a setting just slightly retarded from dead
on. Again, I'll check next tune.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <MrFinespanner@prodigy.net>
Sent: Friday, September 29, 2000 12:07 PM
Subject: Re: Setting timing in the field
>
> In a message dated 9/28/00 9:25:44 PM, MrFinespanner@prodigy.net writes:
>
> << A good seat of the pants procedure, which only works well on 4 cylinder
> cars, is to reposition the distributor so that the motor runs, then
advance
> (rotate clockwise) until it just pings, then back off a tad and tighten
the
> clamp. >>
>
> any reason why it wouldn't work on a six-cylinder?
> Cheers
> gary
From "John R. Draxler" <jdrax at badger.tds.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 12:19:47 -0500
Subject: wire harness layout
wondering if someone could help me with some sort of picture or diagram as
to where the dash and engine compartment wire harness lays and is fastened
down.
I have a shop manual which is only of use to see what hooks to what colorwise.
need to see the layout
=============================
also what is the best seat cover set to purchase, need foam also
http://www.tbirdranch.com
John R. Draxler (Thunderbird Ranch)
7158 Hwy. B, Pittsville, WI 54466
715-884-6546 (9am to 6pm Central)
Subscribe to my newsletter at : http://www.tbirdranch.com
"have a terrific day" and may the Lord guide your footsteps
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 10:42:38 -0700
Subject: RE: wire harness layout
John,
Check the Austin Healey Club USA web page for article indexes. I think there
were a very good set of drawings in the club magazine by member.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: John R. Draxler [mailto:jdrax@badger.tds.net]
Sent: Friday, September 29, 2000 10:20 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: wire harness layout
wondering if someone could help me with some sort of picture or diagram as
to where the dash and engine compartment wire harness lays and is fastened
down.
I have a shop manual which is only of use to see what hooks to what
colorwise.
need to see the layout
=============================
also what is the best seat cover set to purchase, need foam also
http://www.tbirdranch.com
John R. Draxler (Thunderbird Ranch)
7158 Hwy. B, Pittsville, WI 54466
715-884-6546 (9am to 6pm Central)
Subscribe to my newsletter at : http://www.tbirdranch.com
"have a terrific day" and may the Lord guide your footsteps
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 14:00:52 -0400
Subject: Re: Setting timing in the field
Yo Herman,
Yes, those clamps can get pretty gnarly over time. The clamping surface
on the distributor can also get chingered, making it had to turn and
reluctant to take and hold a setting. It's a good idea to yank the
distributor and clamp, get the clamp spread back to round, and dress any
nasties
sticking up on the clamping surface that may be hindering movement (without
cutting down into it). You may also find the clamp as NOS somewhere that
has been supplying Lucas for a while; the old Lucas number is 421191. They
used to go for $2-3 back in the good ol' days.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: Herman Farrer <herman@hfphoto.com>
To: Mr. Finespanner <MrFinespanner@prodigy.net>
Sent: Friday, September 29, 2000 1:25 PM
Subject: Re: Setting timing in the field
> Hey Doug,
>
> I have just the opposite problem. I loosen the bolt on the clamp and
> can barely more the distributor. I could get enough movement to time
> the car, but know there should be a lot more adjustment. Is it a
> matter of prying the clamp apart?
>
> Herman
>
>
> >
> >> The other day my distributor clamp came loose, allowing it to
disenegage
> >from
> >> the camshaft drive. I was able to reengage it and get started again
but
> >my
> >> timing was off. So my question is: How do I reset--approximately--
the
> >> timing in the field (without a light)?
> >>
> >> Michael Oritt, BN1
>
> --
> Herman Farrer Photography
> (301) 588-1923
> 9012 Sudbury Road
> Silver Spring, MD 20901-3819
> http://www.hfphoto.com
From John Harper <john at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 15:45:07 +0100
Subject: Re: Setting timing in the field
Michael
I had this same problem years ago when I had an engine with the earlier
single bolt fixing distributor clamp. The problem was that the clamp
would tighten slightly on the skew and without warning the distributor
would "pop out". The camshaft would push the distributor up sufficiently
high for the teeth to disengage and all timing would be lost.
The technique I used was to take the plugs out and turn the engine with
a thumb over number one plug hole until there was obvious pressure under
my thumb meaning that the engine was on the compression stroke. it was
possible to get some idea when the cylinder stopped "pumping" and this
would be around top dead centre number one cylinder. The distubutor
could then be replaced with the distributor arm pointing at number one
plug lead. The arm would have to be set away from this initially so that
the arm ended up in the correct place when the distibutor was fully
home. The distubutor should be left a little loose and turned well
towards a retarded position before the engine was started.
Assuming that the engine would run the distributor should be turned
slowly towards the advanced position listening for revs to increase. If
one goes too far the revs will no longer increase and may decrease. Also
as one sets the ignition too far advanced one should be able to hear a
harshness creep in. Move the distrubtor back and forth trying for
highest revs and minimum harsh sound. This setting should be fairly
close to optimum and will certainly "get you home".
Another subsciber suggested advancing until the engine "pings". My
experience is that a standard 100 engine will not so much ping as go
progessively "harsh" as I describe above.
However using the "ping" technique is very useful when experimenting
with optimum tuning. The old technique of driving at full throttle up a
slow incline at about 50 mph to see whether a slight "ping" is evident
works well in my opinion. No "ping" means that you might be able to add
a little more advance. Heavy "ping" may well mean that you are too far
advanced.
Finally be careful not to run too far advanced. Your engine may not like
it.
All the best
>
>The other day my distributor clamp came loose, allowing it to disenegage from
>the camshaft drive. I was able to reengage it and get started again but my
>timing was off. So my question is: How do I reset--approximately-- the
>timing in the field (without a light)?
>
>Michael Oritt, BN1
--
John Harper
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 13:16:30 -0500
Subject: RE: wire harness layout
John,
What model of Healey do you have? I have made a video tape of the wiring
layout for a '67 BJ8, if that is relevant.
Let me know if you would like to borrow it; I can pop it in the mail.
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: John R. Draxler [mailto:jdrax@badger.tds.net]
Sent: Friday, September 29, 2000 10:20 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: wire harness layout
wondering if someone could help me with some sort of picture or diagram as
to where the dash and engine compartment wire harness lays and is fastened
down.
I have a shop manual which is only of use to see what hooks to what
colorwise.
need to see the layout
=============================
also what is the best seat cover set to purchase, need foam also
http://www.tbirdranch.com
John R. Draxler (Thunderbird Ranch)
7158 Hwy. B, Pittsville, WI 54466
715-884-6546 (9am to 6pm Central)
Subscribe to my newsletter at : http://www.tbirdranch.com
"have a terrific day" and may the Lord guide your footsteps
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 14:48:53 -0400
Subject: Re: Setting timing
"Mr. Finespanner" wrote:
> Yo Herman,
> Yes, those clamps can get pretty gnarly over time. The clamping surface
> on the distributor can also get chingered, making it had to turn and
> reluctant to take and hold a setting. It's a good idea to yank the
> distributor and clamp, get the clamp spread back to round, and dress any
> nasties
> sticking up on the clamping surface that may be hindering movement (without
> cutting down into it). You may also find the clamp as NOS somewhere that
> has been supplying Lucas for a while; the old Lucas number is 421191. They
> used to go for $2-3 back in the good ol' days.
> Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Herman Farrer <herman@hfphoto.com>
> To: Mr. Finespanner <MrFinespanner@prodigy.net>
> Sent: Friday, September 29, 2000 1:25 PM
> Subject: Re: Setting timing in the field
>
> > Hey Doug,
> >
> > I have just the opposite problem. I loosen the bolt on the clamp and
> > can barely more the distributor. I could get enough movement to time
> > the car, but know there should be a lot more adjustment. Is it a
> > matter of prying the clamp apart?
> >
> > Herman
> >
> >
> > >
> > >> The other day my distributor clamp came loose, allowing it to
> disenegage
> > >from
> > >> the camshaft drive. I was able to reengage it and get started again
> but
> > >my
> > >> timing was off. So my question is: How do I reset--approximately--
> the
> > >> timing in the field (without a light)?
> > >>
> > >> Michael Oritt, BN1
> >
> > --
> > Herman Farrer Photography
> > (301) 588-1923
> > 9012 Sudbury Road
> > Silver Spring, MD 20901-3819
> > http://www.hfphoto.com
Another note on those clamps.
Because the expansion rate of the aluminium that the distributor is made of is
so much higher than the rest of the engine materials Lucas left a cavity under
the area on the distributor where the clamp tightens. The idea was to allow a
little resilience so the clamp would not come loose when the distributor cooled
down.
The problem is that if you over tighten the clamp bolt more than absolutely
necessary the small flange will break off the distributor.
This is a bear to repair and involves machining the distributor body and
installing a collar.
Do not over tighten distributor clamp bolts.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 14:59:20 EDT
Subject: Re: Broken Spoke Question
In a message dated 9/29/00 10:34:41 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
JSoderling@aol.com writes:
<< Is it safe to continue to drive with a single broken spoke, or
should I have it repaired immediately? >>
John--
Many years ago I had a Healey with chrome wires (brass) that were prone to
break. The biggest problem was flat tires caused by centrifugal throwing the
outer end of the broken spoke into the tube! And I am sure that a busted
spoke has got to impose some additional loading on the opposite side of the
wheel. My opinion is: Fix it!
Michael
From "rons" <arjayarjay at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 13:57:26 +0000
Subject: Re: Broken Spoke Question
Hey, John -- Since I'm rebuilding a BN1 (notice I didn't say 'restoring')
broken spokes is one of the multitude of peskly little things I didn't
notice when I bought the car.
I took wheels off to have them sandblasted prior to powder coating and
after they came back to me I noticed half a dozen broken shorts. Since years
ago I had an E Jag, For 8 hours I watched over the shoulder of an old pro
who 'trued' the wheels by actually grinding rubber off a set of brand new
tires then adusting the spokes one by one. When he was done he said I had
what amounted was four gyroscopes. You could see it when he spun the wheel
on his jig. The tread was perfectly visible no matter what speed the tires
turned. He said I could take my hands off the wheel at 100 mph. I did that
just to see if what he had said was true. It was. That car had an
unbelievable agile feel throughout the steereing range.
Now with all this stored know-how, for example, one turn of a nipple is
1/16", truing only after replacing the old tires with new ones and then
'grinding' those tires to a 'perfect' round, I was ready to tackle the BN1
spokes. I went so far as top purchase a 'spoke' wrench from Moss. (It turns
out to be a fairly long 1/4" wrench which, as you will see if I can ever get
to the end of this sage, doesn't matter either way. Sent off to Moss, got
the spokes and nipples and wrench. Now I'm ready. I took me about 10 minutes
to figure out I couldn't remove the long spokes necessary to replace the
shorts. They were all welded together with years and years of our old enemy
rust. No matter what I used I could not free them up. Twisting the nipple, I
watched as the spokes twisted around rather than come free. I had to saw off
a few longs to replace the broken shorts.
Whether or not I have the correct tension on the new spokes is
problematical. I simply 'tuned' them by ear.As I tightened each nipple, I
struck the spoke with a small hammer. When the new one ones 'pinged' with as
sharp a note as the old ones I called it 'tuned.' Whether or not the old
ones are the correct tension in the first place is also problematical since
I can get a different ping from varying spokes.
Bottom line: The short spokes cost $3.95 ea, nipples were $3, I think and
the wrench was $14. The point here is you can probably replace a few spokes
and be well ahead, but if you plan to 'rebuild' them by replacing all the
spokes you're looking at something over $300 per wheel. My goodness, you can
buy new ones for that and save yourself all the headaches and uncertainties
of the original 48 spokers. Personally, I would recommend three things (a)
replace those spokes immediately or (b) go to 60 spokes and (c) buy a new
wheel or wheels. And keep them out of water.
----------
>From: JSoderling@aol.com
>To: healeys@autox.team.net, magicare@home.com
>Subject: Broken Spoke Question
>Date: Fri, Sep 29, 2000, 2:32 PM
>
>
> Hi,
> I have 48 spoke chrome wheels on my Erika. After a 250 mile drive in the
> Sierras last Saturday, I notice yesterday that one (1) spoke (short spoke) is
> broken on a rear wheel.
> Question. Is it safe to continue to drive with a single broken spoke, or
> should I have it repaired immediately?
> Thanks
> John
> 100-Six Erika the Red
>
>
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 17:14:13 -0400
Subject: Re: Broken Spoke Question
Hold it....don't put 60 spoke wheels on cars with front drums. They do not clear
the drum!!
I know you were just checking to see if I am awake......
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
rons wrote:
> Hey, John -- Since I'm rebuilding a BN1 (notice I didn't say 'restoring')
> broken spokes is one of the multitude of peskly little things I didn't
> notice when I bought the car.
>
> I took wheels off to have them sandblasted prior to powder coating and
> after they came back to me I noticed half a dozen broken shorts. Since years
> ago I had an E Jag, For 8 hours I watched over the shoulder of an old pro
> who 'trued' the wheels by actually grinding rubber off a set of brand new
> tires then adusting the spokes one by one. When he was done he said I had
> what amounted was four gyroscopes. You could see it when he spun the wheel
> on his jig. The tread was perfectly visible no matter what speed the tires
> turned. He said I could take my hands off the wheel at 100 mph. I did that
> just to see if what he had said was true. It was. That car had an
> unbelievable agile feel throughout the steereing range.
>
> Now with all this stored know-how, for example, one turn of a nipple is
> 1/16", truing only after replacing the old tires with new ones and then
> 'grinding' those tires to a 'perfect' round, I was ready to tackle the BN1
> spokes. I went so far as top purchase a 'spoke' wrench from Moss. (It turns
> out to be a fairly long 1/4" wrench which, as you will see if I can ever get
> to the end of this sage, doesn't matter either way. Sent off to Moss, got
> the spokes and nipples and wrench. Now I'm ready. I took me about 10 minutes
> to figure out I couldn't remove the long spokes necessary to replace the
> shorts. They were all welded together with years and years of our old enemy
> rust. No matter what I used I could not free them up. Twisting the nipple, I
> watched as the spokes twisted around rather than come free. I had to saw off
> a few longs to replace the broken shorts.
>
> Whether or not I have the correct tension on the new spokes is
> problematical. I simply 'tuned' them by ear.As I tightened each nipple, I
> struck the spoke with a small hammer. When the new one ones 'pinged' with as
> sharp a note as the old ones I called it 'tuned.' Whether or not the old
> ones are the correct tension in the first place is also problematical since
> I can get a different ping from varying spokes.
>
> Bottom line: The short spokes cost $3.95 ea, nipples were $3, I think and
> the wrench was $14. The point here is you can probably replace a few spokes
> and be well ahead, but if you plan to 'rebuild' them by replacing all the
> spokes you're looking at something over $300 per wheel. My goodness, you can
> buy new ones for that and save yourself all the headaches and uncertainties
> of the original 48 spokers. Personally, I would recommend three things (a)
> replace those spokes immediately or (b) go to 60 spokes and (c) buy a new
> wheel or wheels. And keep them out of water.
> ----------
> >From: JSoderling@aol.com
> >To: healeys@autox.team.net, magicare@home.com
> >Subject: Broken Spoke Question
> >Date: Fri, Sep 29, 2000, 2:32 PM
> >
>
> >
> > Hi,
> > I have 48 spoke chrome wheels on my Erika. After a 250 mile drive in the
> > Sierras last Saturday, I notice yesterday that one (1) spoke (short spoke)
>is
> > broken on a rear wheel.
> > Question. Is it safe to continue to drive with a single broken spoke, or
> > should I have it repaired immediately?
> > Thanks
> > John
> > 100-Six Erika the Red
> >
> >
From "JISah102" <ah102 at home.com>
Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 18:03:06 -0400
Subject: Re: Broken Spoke Question
I used 60 Spoke Daytons on my BN1 with the narrow drums. No problem,
I have also used 60 spoke Daytons with special offset from British Wire
Wheel on my BN6. Also no problem.
HOWEVER, why not go all the way to 72 spoke?. They are stronger, wider,
and clear the drums fine.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Salter <magicare@home.com>
To: rons <arjayarjay@worldnet.att.net>
Cc: <JSoderling@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 29, 2000 5:14 PM
Subject: Re: Broken Spoke Question
>
> Hold it....don't put 60 spoke wheels on cars with front drums. They do not
clear
> the drum!!
> I know you were just checking to see if I am awake......
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
>
>
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 19:01:47 EDT
Subject: Re: Broken Spoke Question
When I bought my 100-Six over 23 years ago, it had 72 spoke chrome wheels.
The inner 12 spokes rub on the front brake drum and only this past year did
any of the spokes break. I should put a spacer on them to move the wheel out
a bit.
Rudy Streng
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 19:17:09 EDT
Subject: Re: Broken Spoke Question
In a message dated 9/29/00 2:14:07 PM, magicare@home.com writes:
<<
Hold it....don't put 60 spoke wheels on cars with front drums. They do not
clear
the drum!!
I know you were just checking to see if I am awake..... >>
Does that mean that everyone in the world who owns a healey up through the
100 Sixes is driving on 48 spoke wheels? I don't think so. So how are they
managing to get their 60 spoke wheels around the drums. For that matter, how
did they do it way back when on the 100 Six rally cars that ran on 60 spoke
wheels?
I can't remember how I did it, but I think I remember putting a set of 165x15
Dunlops, mounted on 60 spoke wheels, on my 100.
What am I missing here?
Cheers
gary
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 19:40:50 EDT
Subject: Re: Broken Spoke Question
In a message dated 09/29/2000 5:04:06 PM Central Daylight Time,
ah102@home.com writes:
<< HOWEVER, why not go all the way to 72 spoke?. >>
Why go to 72?? I've got WAT over 75K on my 60s!! Including two drivers and
flat out autocrossing on radials. Nadda prob w/spokes.
Ed
PS. Instead of replying to 4 people AND the List, I removed all but the
List. Is there some problem that you cannot do same??
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 19:39:52 -0400
Subject: Re: Broken Spoke Question
Hi Gary,
I have only had experience with Dunlop wheels and have always found that 60's
interfere with the front drum on anything but the early BN1.
72 spoke are usually fine unless the inner taper on the splined hub is badly
worn.
I don't know about the rally cars. Perhaps they had especially laced wheels or
longer splined hubs. Remember there were also 54 spoke wheels back then too.
I'm sure someone out there knows the answer.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 9/29/00 2:14:07 PM, magicare@home.com writes:
>
> <<
> Hold it....don't put 60 spoke wheels on cars with front drums. They do not
> clear
> the drum!!
> I know you were just checking to see if I am awake..... >>
>
> Does that mean that everyone in the world who owns a healey up through the
> 100 Sixes is driving on 48 spoke wheels? I don't think so. So how are they
> managing to get their 60 spoke wheels around the drums. For that matter, how
> did they do it way back when on the 100 Six rally cars that ran on 60 spoke
> wheels?
>
> I can't remember how I did it, but I think I remember putting a set of 165x15
> Dunlops, mounted on 60 spoke wheels, on my 100.
>
> What am I missing here?
> Cheers
> gary
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 19:46:43 EDT
Subject: Re: Broken Spoke Question
In a message dated 09/29/2000 3:47:36 PM Central Daylight Time,
arjayarjay@worldnet.att.net writes:
<< I took wheels off to have them sandblasted prior to powder coating >>
Now there is the LARGEST waste of $$$ that could possibly be spent on a WW
car (unless all powdercoating is done prior to assembly and even then I would
seriously doubt un-damaged assembly could be attainted!!).
Cheers............
Ed
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 19:48:28 EDT
Subject: Re: Broken Spoke Question
In a message dated 09/29/2000 6:43:45 PM Central Daylight Time,
JustBrits@aol.com writes:
<< I've got WAT over 75K >>
Well, that should be "way" !!! oops!! Sorry.
Ed
From "John A. Vrugtman" <javrugtman at widomaker.com>
Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 20:12:30 -0400
Subject: Re: Shenandoah British Car Day at Waynesboro, VA
You got it right, Saturday the 7th, always a great show. We'll be there.
John & Cindy
Williamsburg, VA
Steve Byers wrote:
> Hello, Healeyphiles and Spridgeteers!
>
> Can someone tell me the date of the Fall show at Waynesboro, VA this year?
> I have heard it will be the 7th of October, but don't have anything
> official.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Steve Byers
> Havelock, NC
From Joseph Elmer <Joelmer at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 20:51:57 -0400
Subject: Re: 141-050 overdrive throttle switch.
$120? Just bend the prongs back, open up case, clean up the points, and
make sure the cam isn't loose. Something is odd when you can buy a TV
set for 120 bucks and a simple set of points with a cam costs as much.
Mark Fawcett wrote:
> These OD throttle switches are available from AH Spares in the UK for
> 69.50 UKP plus shipping, about $120 total. http://www.ahspares.co.uk
> I've used them a number of times and although the shipping costs make
> you cringe, it's still cheaper than the US sources although you must
> be willing to wait 2 weeks. There's alot to be said for Moss Motor's
> overnight and 2 day shipping.
>
> Mark Fawcett
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Lane, Jonathan <lanej@mossmotors.com>
> To: Healeys (E-mail) <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, September 28, 2000 8:20 AM
> Subject: RE: 141-050 overdrive throttle switch.
>
> >
> >
> >
> > By the way, cost on these things is not cheap. They are $187.50.
> They are
> > made in the UK but are not NOS Lucas. They do look pretty good
> though.
> >
> > Jonathan Lane
> > Retail Sales
> > Moss Motors, Ltd.
> > (800) 235-6954 x3240
> > (805) 692-2525 - Fax
> > lanej@mossmotors.com
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Lane, Jonathan [mailto:lanej@mossmotors.com]
> > Sent: Thursday, September 28, 2000 8:02 AM
> > To: Healeys (E-mail)
> > Subject: 141-050 overdrive throttle switch.
> >
> >
> >
> > Hey, this is that wierd little overdrive kickdown switch that we
> list as
> > unavailable in our catalog, but it looks like we stumbled on to a
> couple of
> > them and might be able to get more. If anyone needs one let me
> know.
> >
> > Jonathan Lane
> > Retail Sales
> > Moss Motors, Ltd.
> > (800) 235-6954 x3240
> > (805) 692-2525 - Fax
> > lanej@mossmotors.com
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 20:13:32 -0500
Subject: Re: Broken Spoke Question
oh shucks !! i thought WAT was for wide angle tires.
----- Original Message -----
From: JustBrits@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Broken Spoke Question
Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 19:48:28 EDT
In a message dated 09/29/2000 6:43:45 PM Central Daylight Time,
JustBrits@aol.com writes:
<< I've got WAT over 75K >>
Well, that should be "way" !!! oops!! Sorry.
Ed
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 21:16:52 -0400
Subject: John bull strap
Hello all,
can someone please help with the rubber John Bull strap that holds the
water temp capillary to the heater hose. How do it properly fasten. Do you
pull through till the set of barbs goes into the hole and then put the end
"t" into the second hole ?
Perplexed with this oddity,
Carroll
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 22:02:42 EDT
Subject: Re: Broken Spoke Question
In a message dated 9/29/00 5:14:23 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
magicare@home.com writes:
<< Hold it....don't put 60 spoke wheels on cars with front drums. They do not
clear
the drum!!
I know you were just checking to see if I am awake...... >>
Mike--
British Wire Wheels suppplied a set of 60-spoke wires for my BN1--they have a
special size hub (Dayton) that fits just fine.
Michael
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2000 00:06:45 EDT
Subject: Broken Spoke Replys
Thanks to all who responded, especially Del Border, who gave a very practical
response to my real question. My gut feeling was that it is O.K. to run with
one broken/missing spoke (however I had no experience to draw on).
However, I decided to take Erika down this evening to my wire wheel expert,
Jose Cruze, owner of Rite-Way Wire Wheel in Walnut Creek, CA., and made an
appointment Monday to have it replaced. He confirmed that its O.K. to drive
with one spoke missing as long as you don't drive too aggressive. However,
he said you need to remove the broken spoke (which he did) as it can be a
hazard if it comes loose while driving, and it may also damage the tube.
I had previously looked into 60 spoke wheels (a friend had a nearly new set
of four with new Michelin ZX's for $300) but British Wire Wheel advised that
the normal 60-spoke wheels do not fit on front drums.
Does anyone have a set of good 72-spoke Chrome wires for sale?
Thanks
John
100-Six Erika the Red
From "Edrick Adams" <je.adams at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2000 01:36:30 -0400
Subject: Re: Broken Spoke Question
I'm running 60 spoke wheels with clearance built-in on my BN-1 . They do
not use spacers but are laced with enough adjustment (plus or minus[?] about
1/4") in the offset to ensure lack of interference. When I had them relaced
recently at Dayton they had no trouble repeating the condition. Was under
the impression this was a well known fix.
Ed
-----Original Message-----
From: Editorgary@aol.com <Editorgary@aol.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net <>
Date: Friday, September 29, 2000 7:19 PM
Subject: Re: Broken Spoke Question
>
>
>In a message dated 9/29/00 2:14:07 PM, magicare@home.com writes:
>
><<
>Hold it....don't put 60 spoke wheels on cars with front drums. They do not
>clear
>the drum!!
>I know you were just checking to see if I am awake..... >>
>
>Does that mean that everyone in the world who owns a healey up through the
>100 Sixes is driving on 48 spoke wheels? I don't think so. So how are they
>managing to get their 60 spoke wheels around the drums. For that matter,
how
>did they do it way back when on the 100 Six rally cars that ran on 60 spoke
>wheels?
>
>I can't remember how I did it, but I think I remember putting a set of
165x15
>Dunlops, mounted on 60 spoke wheels, on my 100.
>
>What am I missing here?
>Cheers
>gary
>
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2000 09:23:08 -0400
Subject: Re: Healey Spotted in Centralia, WA
197 through 199! Sorry. Couldn't resist either.
Keith Pennell
----- Original Message -----
From: <MBran89793@aol.com>
To: <nljm@home.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2000 1:27 PM
Subject: Re: Healey Spotted in Centralia, WA
>
> In a message dated 9/27/00 1:19:58 PM Eastern Daylight Time, nljm@home.com
> writes:
>
> << a beautifully restored 10-Six and those are the original colors. >>
>
> Can't resist this one.
> And in what years were the 10-Six manufactured?
>
> Marion
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2000 07:55:01 -0600
Subject: Re: Broken Spoke Question
Ed,
Right you are. As per usual, much ado over nothing, eh other ED ? Just like
a bicycle wheel, our spoked auto wheels can be dished. Dishing is the amount
of offset in or out from the center line of the hub. This is accomplished by
the amount of tension on spokes when built. They don't magically just all
end up at the correct dish because someone taps them with a tuning fork and
then, yada yada. Jeez!!
Jaguar specified offset in their manuals. Never seen it a Healey manual
though.
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{) 54 BN1
Click below for webpage and mopeds:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
----- Original Message -----
From: "Edrick Adams" <je.adams@worldnet.att.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 29, 2000 11:36 PM
Subject: Re: Broken Spoke Question
>
> I'm running 60 spoke wheels with clearance built-in on my BN-1 . They do
> not use spacers but are laced with enough adjustment (plus or minus[?]
about
> 1/4") in the offset to ensure lack of interference. When I had them
relaced
> recently at Dayton they had no trouble repeating the condition. Was under
> the impression this was a well known fix.
>
> Ed
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Editorgary@aol.com <Editorgary@aol.com>
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net <>
> Date: Friday, September 29, 2000 7:19 PM
> Subject: Re: Broken Spoke Question
>
>
> >
> >
> >In a message dated 9/29/00 2:14:07 PM, magicare@home.com writes:
> >
> ><<
> >Hold it....don't put 60 spoke wheels on cars with front drums. They do
not
> >clear
> >the drum!!
> >I know you were just checking to see if I am awake..... >>
> >
> >Does that mean that everyone in the world who owns a healey up through
the
> >100 Sixes is driving on 48 spoke wheels? I don't think so. So how are
they
> >managing to get their 60 spoke wheels around the drums. For that matter,
> how
> >did they do it way back when on the 100 Six rally cars that ran on 60
spoke
> >wheels?
> >
> >I can't remember how I did it, but I think I remember putting a set of
> 165x15
> >Dunlops, mounted on 60 spoke wheels, on my 100.
> >
> >What am I missing here?
> >Cheers
> >gary
> >
>
>
From Tom Dooley <tdooley at ispchannel.com>
Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2000 08:44:00 -0700
Subject: Re: 141-050 overdrive throttle switch.
If both were being mass produced in maquiladoras in Mexico by
$.80 per hour labor, and the price remained the same, that would
be odd. %-)
Cheers,
Tommy
Joseph Elmer wrote:
>
> $120? Just bend the prongs back, open up case, clean up the points, and
> make sure the cam isn't loose. Something is odd when you can buy a TV
> set for 120 bucks and a simple set of points with a cam costs as much.
> Mark Fawcett wrote:
> > These OD throttle switches are available from AH Spares in the UK for
> > 69.50 UKP plus shipping, about $120 total. http://www.ahspares.co.uk
> > I've used them a number of times and although the shipping costs make
> > you cringe, it's still cheaper than the US sources although you must
> > be willing to wait 2 weeks. There's alot to be said for Moss Motor's
> > overnight and 2 day shipping.
> Mark Fawcett
>> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Lane, Jonathan <lanej@mossmotors.com>
> > To: Healeys (E-mail) <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Thursday, September 28, 2000 8:20 AM
> > Subject: RE: 141-050 overdrive throttle switch.
> By the way, cost on these things is not cheap. They are $187.50.
> > They are
> > > made in the UK but are not NOS Lucas. They do look pretty good
> > though.
> > Jonathan Lane
> > > Retail Sales
> > > Moss Motors, Ltd.
> > > (800) 235-6954 x3240
> > > (805) 692-2525 - Fax
> > > lanej@mossmotors.com
> > >
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Lane, Jonathan [mailto:lanej@mossmotors.com]
> > > Sent: Thursday, September 28, 2000 8:02 AM
> > > To: Healeys (E-mail)
> > > Subject: 141-050 overdrive throttle switch.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Hey, this is that wierd little overdrive kickdown switch that we
> > list as
> > > unavailable in our catalog, but it looks like we stumbled on to a
> > couple of
> > > them and might be able to get more. If anyone needs one let me
> > know.
> > >
> > > Jonathan Lane
> > > Retail Sales
> > > Moss Motors, Ltd.
> > > (800) 235-6954 x3240
> > > (805) 692-2525 - Fax
> > > lanej@mossmotors.com
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2000 12:06:46 -0400
Subject: Re: 141-050 overdrive throttle switch.
Hear, hear, Tom,
I bet the die to make the metal casing would cost over $10K
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
Tom Dooley wrote:
> If both were being mass produced in maquiladoras in Mexico by
> $.80 per hour labor, and the price remained the same, that would
> be odd. %-)
>
> Cheers,
>
> Tommy
>
> Joseph Elmer wrote:
> >
> > $120? Just bend the prongs back, open up case, clean up the points, and
> > make sure the cam isn't loose. Something is odd when you can buy a TV
> > set for 120 bucks and a simple set of points with a cam costs as much.
> > Mark Fawcett wrote:
> > > These OD throttle switches are available from AH Spares in the UK for
> > > 69.50 UKP plus shipping, about $120 total. http://www.ahspares.co.uk
> > > I've used them a number of times and although the shipping costs make
> > > you cringe, it's still cheaper than the US sources although you must
> > > be willing to wait 2 weeks. There's alot to be said for Moss Motor's
> > > overnight and 2 day shipping.
> > Mark Fawcett
> >> > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Lane, Jonathan <lanej@mossmotors.com>
> > > To: Healeys (E-mail) <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: Thursday, September 28, 2000 8:20 AM
> > > Subject: RE: 141-050 overdrive throttle switch.
> > By the way, cost on these things is not cheap. They are $187.50.
> > > They are
> > > > made in the UK but are not NOS Lucas. They do look pretty good
> > > though.
> > > Jonathan Lane
> > > > Retail Sales
> > > > Moss Motors, Ltd.
> > > > (800) 235-6954 x3240
> > > > (805) 692-2525 - Fax
> > > > lanej@mossmotors.com
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: Lane, Jonathan [mailto:lanej@mossmotors.com]
> > > > Sent: Thursday, September 28, 2000 8:02 AM
> > > > To: Healeys (E-mail)
> > > > Subject: 141-050 overdrive throttle switch.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Hey, this is that wierd little overdrive kickdown switch that we
> > > list as
> > > > unavailable in our catalog, but it looks like we stumbled on to a
> > > couple of
> > > > them and might be able to get more. If anyone needs one let me
> > > know.
> > > >
> > > > Jonathan Lane
> > > > Retail Sales
> > > > Moss Motors, Ltd.
> > > > (800) 235-6954 x3240
> > > > (805) 692-2525 - Fax
> > > > lanej@mossmotors.com
From BGAHC at aol.com
Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2000 12:21:54 EDT
Subject: Healey Webmasters
I have been redesigning some of my sites and thought I would use the list to
communicate to all the Healey Webmasters the new URL's. Please change your
links to reflect the new URL's.
http://hometown.aol.com/BGAHC/index.html is the old Bluegrass Club Site that
is now a link to the Healey Adventure Site. If you have it just change the
name to "Healey Adventure".
The direct route to the Healey Adventure Site is
http://hometown.aol.com/bgahc/jimwerner.html.
It can also be reached directly through http://jamesfwerner.com/ but the
Hometown AOL link is faster.
The URL for the totally new Bluegrass Club site is
http://hometown.aol.com/bluegrassclub/BluegrassClub_index.html. That is the
only way to reach it.
I also have the British Sports Car Club of Kentucky site under final
construction. It can be reached at
http://hometown.aol.com/bsccofky/BSCC_index.html
I also added a mailing list feature to both the Bluegrass Club and BSCC.
Similar to this team.net list, it is a discussion list for members of the
clubs that has been well received. If you would like to create a list for
your club contact me off the list and I will send you the information.
I'm now giving up this cyber-Healey stuff and going out to play with my real
cars.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Visit my Healey Adventure site at www.jamesfwerner.com
From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2000 12:26:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Broken Spoke Question - Experience
To answer the question of how long and far one can drive with broken
spokes . . .
When I bought my 1960 BT7 for $834.75 including tax and license on
February 12, 1968 at "Bill Small Auto Sales" in Santa Ana, California
(still have receipt), my 48 spoke wire wheels contained from 39 to 45
unbroken spokes.
I drove from Los Angeles up over the Ridge Route to Visalia and for
several months longer on the "missing spokes" 48 spoke wheels with four
new 6.00-15 bias ply recaps at "sport car speeds" as I was only 20 years
old. A few months later I was roaring through the Sierra foothills near
Badger and upon bottoming out in a dip in the road, collapsed one of the
rear wires. It was now wobbling and banging against the inner body.
Since I didn't have a spare tire (age 20 remember), I switched the wheel
with a front one and slowly drove about 10 or 15 miles out to Lemon Cove
where there was a phone. The tire harmlessly wobbled and banged about
on the lighter and roomier front position. A friend with another
Austin-Healey 3000 let me jack up his car and borrow one of his wheels
to get my car home (he was also age 20 with no spare).
I bought two new 60 spoke painted wheels from BMC (still 1968) and drove
with the two best (43 to 45 spoke) front 48 spoke wheels back and forth
from Visalia to Humboldt State College up in Arcata for another year at
"Sports Car Speeds" before getting two more 60 spoke wheels. Due to the
violent shaking I've always had between 55 and 65 mph I usually kept it
up around 75 to 80 mph.
As a 52 year old California Attorney now, I must warn all . . . "Don't
try this at home on your own car."
When I bought the last two 60 spoke wires I mounted four Michelin X
1.85-15 tires. I found that the front 60 spoke wires would hit the
outer top of the disc brake calipers when cornering with the radial
tires. They wore off all the paint on the corner of the caliper and
could be heard making a rapid "tink-tink-tink" sound on hard cornering.
I bought four new 72 spoke NOS painted Dunlop wheels from the "Austin
Healey Club - Pacific Centre" during March 1977 for $286.00 for all four
wheels (I still have my cashier's check receipt, I only mention this to
make you people sick). The club found a horde of about 100 brand new
sets in England and bought and shipped them to the club in San Jose.
I found that the original painted Dunlop 72 spoke wire wheels had enough
clearance between the spokes and the front disc brake caliper to slip
your little finger between them. Much better than the 60 spoke wheels.
I also prefer the looks of the 72 spoke wheels from a distance as all
the spokes appear to go out straight, compared to the more angled spokes
of the 60 spoke rims.
>From the various messages concerning front drum clearance, it appears
that many of the new rims available today have differing offsets from
the "original" 60 spoke Dunlop wheels I bought back in 1968 & 69.
I hope this bit of history helps someone determine the relative strength
of the 48-60-72 original wire wheels.
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
From "Donald L. Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2000 16:21:16 -0500
Subject: 100 mile trip
I took the "Old Red Devil" on a 100 mile run today. What a beautiful Fall
Day in Western Kentucky. I took twisting back roads to Madisonville, had
breakfast at the Cracker Barrel then took the Pennyrile Parkway back to
Henderson, filled up with gas, then to Geneva, Corydon, Morganfield and back
home. The only problem...28 miles from home the fuel pump quit on me.
Fortunately I had installed a parallel fuel pump and with a little rigging I
managed to get on home.
Round trip did not leak or burn any oil. Mark was right on when I left and
right on when I got back. Overdrive worked perfectly. Running temperature
was around 190.
Can anyone tell me (since my speedometer is broken) about how fast I was
going on the Parkway in fourth gear and overdrive at 3000 rpms??
Thanks,
Don
BN7
From "RL Chrysler" <lchrysl at fhs.csu.McMaster.CA>
Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2000 18:29:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Broken Spoke Question - Experience
Hello Listers,
With all due respect to all who have voiced their opinions and experiences
in the last few days, I'd like to add my own 2 cents worth.
Many of you know that I like, prefer, own, drive Hundreds (that's 100/4's to
the uninitiated). These cars came with drum brakes all around, and were
originally fitted with 48 spoke wheels.
Back in the mid 1980's, I came across a terrific package deal, including 3
Hundreds, and by actual count, 276 boxes and crates of Hundred parts, almost
all of it used stuff.
I kept the best Hundred of the deal, fully restored her, and had my choice
of some 28 wheels, all originals, most of them pretty good. By good, I mean
they were reasonably true, had no rust, broken spokes, poor splines, or
accident damage. I chose the best 6, had them carefully powder blasted and
painted.
When the car was completed, I installed Pirelli P3, 165X15 tires and was on
the road. Any of you who know me know that I drive my cars, everywhere and
anywhere as long as it's not in salt conditions.
These wheels started breaking spokes.
What to do....I bought a set of new Dunlop 48 spoke wheels, and yes they
were some of today's India manufactured ones.
I has the almost new tires and tubes reinstalled on these new wheels, had
them only bubble balanced, and the problem was solved. I never experienced
any broken spokes again.
I have imported and installed this same combination on a number of Hundreds
for other people, and have never heard of a problem from theirs either.
I will say that I'm not one to take my car into gymkhanas or slalom courses
with these 48 spoke wheels, but all kinds of public road driving, even quite
"vigorous" driving ha never given me a problem.
I really do prefer the look of the 48 spoke wheel on a Hundred. The 60 and
even more so, the 72 spoke wheel looks too heavy and "busy" on the light,
clean lines of the car.
On a six cylinder model, the issue may be different, and probably the 60
spoke wheel would be a good compromise, but the car is heavier, the
proportions give the car a heavier look, and the 60 spoke wheel looks more
in place.
I think the bottom line here may have to do with aged and fatigued wheels
not standing up compared to new ones.
Just my 2 cents worth.
Rich Chrysler
From "John R. Draxler" <jdrax at badger.tds.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2000 23:00:18 -0500
Subject: BJ8 vent window parts
Looking for all the little parts that go on the bottom of the vent window
stem, the springs, washers and nuts etc. for a 3000 BJ8, 1967
need these for one vent window
also, does anyone have a nice grill, grill surround and upper grill
moulding for the same car?
Is there someone who would be interested in purchasing the old shocks off
this car. They are the originals. We put new ones on.
http://www.tbirdranch.com
John R. Draxler (Thunderbird Ranch)
7158 Hwy. B, Pittsville, WI 54466
715-884-6546 (9am to 6pm Central)
Subscribe to my newsletter at : http://www.tbirdranch.com
"have a terrific day" and may the Lord guide your footsteps
From SIGDACMUNSTER at aol.com
Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 01:57:49 EDT
Subject: 100/4 QUESTION ?
HELLO LISTERS.
HOPEFULLY SOMEONE CAN ANSWER MY HUNDRED QUESTION.
I RECENTLY INHERITED A 1954 100/4 WITH NO PAPERWORK, I THINK ITS A BN2. NOW
I HAVE BEEN TOLD THIS CAR IS VERY RARE. HOW DO I FIND OUT MORE ABOUT THIS
VEHICLE. THANKS FOR ANY INFO.
THANKS AGAIN RICK
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