Heard Saxon
Enterprise, FL
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From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 01 May 2003 08:45:35 -0500
Subject: Steve Buyers
Steve, I ran across a one owner Texas BJ8 for your registry. Please
contact me off line. Thanks.
Best to all,
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
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From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
Date: Thu, 1 May 2003 09:03:19 -0500
Subject: Re: Any Lawyers in our group?
pss.......who am i gonna sue for these 27 here at the house i'm not gonna
sell to???
----- Original Message -----
From: "Heard Saxon" <heard@datatrontech.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2003 8:12 AM
Subject: Re: Any Lawyers in our group?
> You might also keep in mind that he could be a subscriber to this
list......
>
>
>
> Heard Saxon
> Enterprise, FL
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From "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios at snet.net>
Date: Thu, 1 May 2003 10:38:53 -0400
Subject: Myrtle Beach SC
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From TimWardUK at aol.com
Date: Thu, 1 May 2003 11:33:00 EDT
Subject: Re: Any Lawyers in our group?
>
> You might also keep in mind that he could be a subscriber to this list......
>
>
>
In which case, he also would have received some good advice!
Tim Ward
Warwick House
12 Mill Road
Kislingbury
Northants. NN7 4BB
Tel: 07855 388 751
www.TimWardAssociates.com
www.SixSigmaWorks.co.uk
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From "Bill Puetz" <bpuetz at msn.com>
Date: Thu, 1 May 2003 12:05:21 -0500
Subject: Water Pumps
Thanks!
Bill Puetz
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From Simonlachlan at aol.com
Date: Thu, 1 May 2003 13:19:46 EDT
Subject: Re: Any Lawyers in our group?
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From Jim Wood <jwood_kc at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 1 May 2003 10:26:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Proper color for convertible top frame
Thanks in advance
Jim Wood
'67 BJ8
__________________________________
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From Mark Marousky <markmarousky at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 1 May 2003 10:43:20 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: For Sale 1964 BJ8 $2700
Here are the specifics...
The car is 1964 BJ8 Phase I. The car is mostly complete. To the best of my
knowledge it has the original engine, trans and rear end. It does not run but
it did fire up and sputter before I bought it 4-5 years ago. The car is in
very rough shape. The trunk floor, floors, and sills must all be replaced.
The front end sheet metal also needs to be worked on. To
be properly restored the car will have to be completly dismantled. It needs a
complete restoration. It is certainly not driveable. I can provide some
pictures of the car sometime next week if anyone is interested.
The car is located in Gainesville Florida (North Cetral Florida).
I'd like to get $2700 for the car. However, I would consider selling the car
for less to anyone in the Jacksonville area that can provide me with a solid
job lead. With the economy in the toilet I need all the
help I can get.
Please contact me at the following phone number or e-mail address for more
information....
mmarousky@yahoo.com
352 375-3157
Thanks,
Mark Marousky
---------------------------------
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From "norman cay" <normcay at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 1 May 2003 11:47:16 -0700
Subject: wire wheels
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From "tfelts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
Date: Thu, 1 May 2003 14:45:36 -0400
Subject: Re: Any Lawyers in our group?
tom
-----Original Message-----
From: HoYo <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: Heard Saxon <heard@datatrontech.net>; Healey List
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, May 01, 2003 10:40 AM
Subject: Re: Any Lawyers in our group?
>I doubt it. sounds more like a Jag or P-Word (porsche) prick , i mean
>guy............................HoYo
>ps apologies to those who it doesn't apply to....
>
> pss.......who am i gonna sue for these 27 here at the house i'm not gonna
>sell to???
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Heard Saxon" <heard@datatrontech.net>
>To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2003 8:12 AM
>Subject: Re: Any Lawyers in our group?
>
>
>> You might also keep in mind that he could be a subscriber to this
>list......
>>
>>
>>
>> Heard Saxon
>> Enterprise, FL
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From "Terence H. & Suzanne F. McCool" <cm18 at epix.net>
Date: Thu, 1 May 2003 15:13:58 -0400
Subject: Petronix
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From "Ph.J.Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl>
Date: Thu, 1 May 2003 22:02:47 +0200
Subject: Front wheel hub/disc
Can anyone give me the recommended torque figure for the five bolts holding
the brake disk onto the wheel hub on a wire wheel BJ8? Can't find this figure
anywhere in the documentation I hold.
I also need the minimum thickness of the brake discs. I'm sure I saw that
figure somewhere, but can't remember where....
Thanks
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
1964 BJ8 29432
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
Date: Thu, 01 May 2003 14:46:37 -0600
Subject: Re: wire wheels
There should be a number on their web site
http://www.hendrixwirewheel.com
Dave Russell
norman cay wrote:
> I am looking for a phone number for Hendricks (sp?) They don't appear to
> advertise in the Austin-Healey Magazine.
> Thanks,
> Norm Cay
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From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "tfelts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>; "Heard Saxon" <heard@datatrontech.net>;
Date: Thu, 1 May 2003 15:50:21 -0500
Subject: Re: Any Lawyers in our group?
> Easy there HOYO---there are some of us on this list who own Jags also.
> Never really thought of myself as a prick---but you just never know.
>
> tom
> -----Original Message-----
> From: HoYo <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
> To: Heard Saxon <heard@datatrontech.net>; Healey List
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Thursday, May 01, 2003 10:40 AM
> Subject: Re: Any Lawyers in our group?
>
>
> >I doubt it. sounds more like a Jag or P-Word (porsche) prick , i mean
> >guy............................HoYo
> >ps apologies to those who it doesn't apply to....
> >
> > pss.......who am i gonna sue for these 27 here at the house i'm not
gonna
> >sell to???
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Heard Saxon" <heard@datatrontech.net>
> >To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> >Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2003 8:12 AM
> >Subject: Re: Any Lawyers in our group?
> >
> >
> >> You might also keep in mind that he could be a subscriber to this
> >list......
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Heard Saxon
> >> Enterprise, FL
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "tfelts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>; "Heard Saxon" <heard@datatrontech.net>;
Date: Thu, 1 May 2003 15:52:39 -0500
Subject: Re: Proper color for convertible top frame
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From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "tfelts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>; "Heard Saxon" <heard@datatrontech.net>;
Date: Thu, 1 May 2003 15:57:04 -0500
Subject: clarification/legaleze
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "tfelts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>; "Heard Saxon" <heard@datatrontech.net>;
Date: Thu, 1 May 2003 15:57:33 -0500
Subject: Re: wire wheels
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From BTARH2O at aol.com
From: "tfelts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>; "Heard Saxon" <heard@datatrontech.net>;
Date: Thu, 1 May 2003 17:28:03 EDT
Subject: Re: clarification/legaleze
>'battle lines ,bein' drawn')........HoHoHoYo
>ps.......still not sure 'bout those P-word owners.....;?*)
Which side of the battle line does my P-1800 Volvo put me? Must be the Poor
Side huh?
Bob T
63 BJ7
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From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: <BTARH2O@aol.com>
To: <hoyo@bellsouth.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 1 May 2003 16:32:25 -0500
Subject: Re: clarification/legaleze
>
> In a message dated 5/1/03 3:59:34 PM, hoyo@bellsouth.net writes:
>
> >'battle lines ,bein' drawn')........HoHoHoYo
> >ps.......still not sure 'bout those P-word owners.....;?*)
>
> Which side of the battle line does my P-1800 Volvo put me? Must be the
Poor
> Side huh?
>
> Bob T
> 63 BJ7
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From JAnde63063 at aol.com
From: <BTARH2O@aol.com>
To: <hoyo@bellsouth.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 1 May 2003 17:37:02 EDT
Subject: Re: wire wheels
Hendrix Wire Wheel phone number 336-852-8909. The Web site is
www.Hendrixwirewheel.com.
Jerry Anderson
Hendrix Wire Wheel
BN4
JH-5
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: <BTARH2O@aol.com>
To: <hoyo@bellsouth.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 1 May 2003 18:57:40 -0400
Subject: Re: Water Pumps
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Puetz
To: Healey List
Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2003 1:05 PM
Subject: Water Pumps
I have to replace the water pump on my '67 BJ8. Is there likely to be any
qualitative difference between the various sources? Any recommendations?
Thanks!
Bill Puetz
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From "George" <leavcast at infomagic.net>
From: <BTARH2O@aol.com>
To: <hoyo@bellsouth.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 1 May 2003 16:46:18 -0700
Subject: BN1 demister removal
George Castleberry
Flagstaff, AZ
1954 BN1L-157155
1973 GMC Painted Desert
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From Douglas W Flagg <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: <BTARH2O@aol.com>
To: <hoyo@bellsouth.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 1 May 2003 20:01:08 -0400
Subject: Re: Any Lawyers in our group?
It would seem to me that any reasonable person would understand a change
of heart about selling a Healey. Attempts at threats are the ignorant
person's way of dealing. I would suggest that if the deposit check did
not have a notation as to it's purpose, or even if it did, not cashing it
would make the "deal" incomplete. I would assume the lack of a receipt
for the transaction would also further strengthen the change of heart. Of
course the other possibility is that he (the buyer) is the Democratic
minority speaker!!
Doug
On Thu, 1 May 2003 15:50:21 -0500 "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net> writes:
> Hi Tom ,
> that's why my ps disclaimer.......for those like you (and me ,
> hopefully.....one day!)
> HoYo
> p.s. Sue me!!! ;^)
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "tfelts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
> To: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>; "Heard Saxon"
> <heard@datatrontech.net>;
> "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2003 1:45 PM
> Subject: Re: Any Lawyers in our group?
>
>
> > Easy there HOYO---there are some of us on this list who own Jags
> also.
> > Never really thought of myself as a prick---but you just never
> know.
> >
> > tom
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: HoYo <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
> > To: Heard Saxon <heard@datatrontech.net>; Healey List
> > <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Date: Thursday, May 01, 2003 10:40 AM
> > Subject: Re: Any Lawyers in our group?
> >
> >
> > >I doubt it. sounds more like a Jag or P-Word (porsche) prick , i
> mean
> > >guy............................HoYo
> > >ps apologies to those who it doesn't apply to....
> > >
> > > pss.......who am i gonna sue for these 27 here at the house i'm
> not
> gonna
> > >sell to???
> > >----- Original Message -----
> > >From: "Heard Saxon" <heard@datatrontech.net>
> > >To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > >Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2003 8:12 AM
> > >Subject: Re: Any Lawyers in our group?
> > >
> > >
> > >> You might also keep in mind that he could be a subscriber to
> this
> > >list......
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> Heard Saxon
> > >> Enterprise, FL
>
________________________________________________________________
The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
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Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today!
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From "Ron Fine Esq." <RonFineEsq at earthlink.net>
From: <BTARH2O@aol.com>
To: <hoyo@bellsouth.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 01 May 2003 17:14:51 -0700
Subject: Tips for spring installation
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: <BTARH2O@aol.com>
To: <hoyo@bellsouth.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 1 May 2003 20:21:48 -0400
Subject: Re: Good book/tips for machine shop?
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: WilKo@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, April 30, 2003 8:59 PM
Subject: Good book/tips for machine shop?
Hi guys,
I've got almost all my parts together for my engine rebuild. I've got a
qualified shop lined up to do the work.
Is there a good shop book that I can give them as a resource for specific
needs that an Austin Healey engine may have? They do plenty of other
engines,
just not a lot of experience with the 3000.
Or any things you guys can think of that they should keep an eye out for?
Thanks,
Rick
San Diego
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: <BTARH2O@aol.com>
To: <hoyo@bellsouth.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 1 May 2003 18:19:57 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Front wheel hub/disc
You only need to torque them down as much as a regular
wheel on any car... abut 40 - 50 ft-lbs (i.e. easy but
firm hand tightening with any standard socket wrench).
Of course you should use new lock nuts as well, every
time. Do not tighten them more than this, it can
damage the bolts - I know, I've replaced four axle
hubs (front and rear) on my BN1 because the PO loved
to tighten those bolts to probably 150 ft-lbs - and
bolts on each of one the hubs stripped or broke.
Absolutely uneccessary.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "Ph.J.Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl> wrote:
> Listers,
>
> Can anyone give me the recommended torque figure for
> the five bolts holding
> the brake disk onto the wheel hub on a wire wheel
> BJ8? Can't find this figure
> anywhere in the documentation I hold.
> I also need the minimum thickness of the brake
> discs. I'm sure I saw that
> figure somewhere, but can't remember where....
> Thanks
>
> Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
> 1964 BJ8 29432
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From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: <BTARH2O@aol.com>
To: <hoyo@bellsouth.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 1 May 2003 20:42:26 -0500
Subject: Fw: Questions on your 57'
Since I have not dealt with this portion of my own '57 BN4 project yet, I
thought I'd pass this on to the rest of you.....
Please respond to Seth at: tomsimport@ipinc.net
Thanks,
Scott Helms
----- Original Message -----
From: BritCarWeek
To: Scott H.
Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2003 8:37 PM
Subject: Fw: Questions on your 57'
----- Original Message -----
From: Tom's Import Toy Sales
To: BritCarWeek@arczip.com
Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2003 5:58 PM
Subject: Questions on your 57'
Good afternoon,
My name is Seth & my dad & I are restoring a 57' 100-6.
We are down to installing the top frame, but we can't seem to
get it to fit right. We can't figure out how the hook on the top frame
should hook to the car
If you could shed some light it would be great.
thanks Seth
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: <BTARH2O@aol.com>
To: <hoyo@bellsouth.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 1 May 2003 18:52:36 -0700
Subject: Re: Tips for spring installation
John Snyder
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Fine Esq." <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2003 5:14 PM
Subject: Tips for spring installation
> Hello List. I am starting a new project this weekend installing new
> rear springs in my 61BN7. Any tips or suggestions from anyone will be
> appreciated. Is there anything in particular I should watch out for or
> pay any special attention??
> Ron
> BN7
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: <BTARH2O@aol.com>
To: <hoyo@bellsouth.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 1 May 2003 20:33:23 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: separating steering column tube
__________________________________
The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo.
http://search.yahoo.com
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From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
From: <BTARH2O@aol.com>
To: <hoyo@bellsouth.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 01 May 2003 21:41:26 -0700
Subject: Re: Tips for spring installation
If you have not removed the front bolts you may need a Sawzall. Try a
little liquid wrench, perhaps a little heat. I did and eventually realized
that a Sawzall was the fastest, easiest, and best solution. You can buy the
bolts. Get extras though, they are cheap. I had to redo something and when
I reused the new bolt it stripped; I do have a tendency to over tighten
things however.
John
'62 BT7
At 05:14 PM 5/1/03 -0700, Ron Fine Esq. wrote:
>Hello List. I am starting a new project this weekend installing new
>rear springs in my 61BN7. Any tips or suggestions from anyone will be
>appreciated. Is there anything in particular I should watch out for or
>pay any special attention??
>Ron
>BN7
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: <BTARH2O@aol.com>
To: <hoyo@bellsouth.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2003 15:57:30 +1000
Subject: Lucas Distributors, Pertronix, ignition advance curves, Healeys
I apologise up front - this is a long and reasonably detailed post. Tried to
post it last night - but it didn't go through.
If you believe that a Pertronix ignitor fixes "everything" relating to wear in
a 35- 50 year old distributor - and want to keep believing that - then delete
this post now - and may you forever remain in Lucas darkness.
This post is about why it is important "WHEN" the spark gets fired (rather
than just 'what' fires the spark) - and is an attempt to explain what problems
an electronic ignition (Pertronix, Lumenition etc) or a dual points
distributor will cure - and the problems they CAN'T cure - and how to cure
those problems. With all the recent posts - I thought documenting this would
help.
Firstly - I'm not anti -Pertronix or anti-electronic ignition - I just want
to explain what I have discovered myself over the past year or so - and
demystify some of this stuff.
Pertronix part number for a positive earth Pertronix for a BJ8 Lucas 25D
distributor is LU 162AP12 - I bought a Pertronix from Aaron Couper at
coupers-cars.com (in the USA) about this time last year:
http://www.coupers-cars.com/Catalog%20Templates/Pertronix%20Units_products.ht
m
It was $US70 plus freight & taxes No commercial interest yaddah yaddah - best
price I could find - and Aaron is a Kiwi (like Mike Salter!) - so he's a good
bloke!.
But before you rush out and buy one - think about this - what problem are you
trying to solve?
Most people buy a Pertronix - and spend their $US70 plus freight (or more) -
basically to compensate for the fact that their 35 - 50 year old distributor
is worn out. Your distributor shaft bearings, shaft, distributor cam etc are
worn - and so the shaft wobbles. The distributor runs at half engine rpm -
you'd expect its bearings to be worn out after 35- 50 years of driving!.
So why not fix the distributor?
By fitting a Pertronix - you eliminate the mechanical actuation of the
mechanical points (and the condensor) - and replace them with a very accurate
electronic 'switch'. The wobbly mechanical shaft now doesn't mechanically open
and close the points - and you don't have to maintain the points. That's one
problem solved - 'how' the spark is fired.
But - what determines WHEN that spark gets fired?. Its your advance curve -
determined by two weights, pivoting on posts, retained by 2 springs - which
spin in and out at different RPMs - and a cam and post which limit the
movement to a 'maximum' advance. How does the wobbly old worn shaft/ bearings/
Cam/ springs and worn spring posts in the distributor decide WHEN to fire the
spark? The same way that it did before you fitted the Pertronix - by just
wobbling around!. You haven't fixed that problem!
So what are the advantage of fitting a Pertronics inside your Lucas
distributor - or fitting a modern twin point distributor instead of your
Lucas?:
1. a pertronix removes shaft/cam wear as a SPARK IGNITION consistency factor
- by changing HOW the spark is fired - by changing from mechanical actuation
of mechanical points, to optical . But it doesn't remove the shaft/cam wear -
or post/pivot wear, lack of spring tension etc - which affects WHEN the spark
is fired - i.e. the advance curve itself. The Mallory twin point - being brand
new - isn't worn - so it also solves the 'wear' problem.
2. you can't get points bounce with a Pertronix - as it is a hall effect
rather than mechanical points. A dual point eg Mallory distributor also cures
points bounce by halving the amount of work each set of points does. Both are
great to extend revs past say 6,400 rpm on a 6 cylinder engine, and past
7,500rpm on a 4 cylinder engine.
3. a pertronix is cheaper (at around $US70) than a full distributor rebuild
with a complete advance curve regraph (at around $US150 - or so) The Mallory
is dearer still - at around $US200 plus you still need to set the advance
curve of the Mallory to match your engine.
4. a much more consistent 15 KV is maintained at eg 6,000 rpm at the spark
plug - whereas points systems reduce KVA at higher rpm. Both Perrtronix and
dual point Mallory will provide this consistency.
A Pertronix DOESN'T address the effect that the wear in the distributor has
on the actual advance curve itself - i.e. the amount of advance an engine
requires at any particular revs. Your worn out old distributor decides that -
and we just ascertained that your motivation to put in a Pertronix was to
compensate for the worn out bearings/ cam/ shaft!!! But you've ignored the
springs, action plate posts, weights and the wear means you no longer have the
advance curve provided 35 - 50 years ago. And lets face it - if you don't have
a standard camshaft grind, and a standard compression ratio - and aren't
running 100 octane RON (NOT AKI - and not MON) leaded fuel (check in your
owners handbook!) - then that curve isn't correct anyway!.
The correct solution to 1. above - to solve BOTH issues - is the old fashioned
'rebuilding your distributor' method! Replace the worn out bearing/ worn
shaft/ action plate posts/pivots. Then regraph to suit your Healey engine.
Regarding 2 and 4. Is points points bbbounce actually a problem? I don't
believe it is with a road going 6 cyl big Healey with a standard crankshaft.
Points
bounce is only a problem on high revving cars - eg 4 cylinder racing sprites,
or Healey 3000's with Denis Welch's steel bottom end - which go regularly
past 7,000 rpm on the track, and get points bounce - which a Pertronics
solves. On a 6 cylinder engine you don't get points bounce with standard
points until around 6,200 - 6,400 rpm - at which time a standard crankshaft
cures the points bounce - by breaking......... Suffice to say - if you intend
to rev your 100/4 over 7,000 rpm - or your 6 cylinder healey over 6,500 rpm
regularly - then get a pertronix or a Mallory dual point.
Personally - on a BJ8 which sees 5,800 rpm regularly - a correctly set up
Lucas distributor is fine - remember - that was the same distributor which
Formula Juniors and Cooper S and Healeys used in International motorsport
during the 1960s!. Its just that todays ones are 35 - 40 years older and need
to be rebuilt!
I'm not knocking Pertronix - I'm keeping the one I have for a Sprite -
Pertronix solves the points bounce issue better than anything else, in a
standard appearance distributor. But it won't 'fix' your advance curve -
which is probably now way off due to the wear in posts / bearings / lack of
spring tension / worn bearings worn distributor cam - And it won't compensate
for the higher performance camshaft you fitted last rebuild. A rebuild , and a
regraph of your distributor to suit your engines specs, however, will.
In Summary -
- If you have a worn out old 80,000 mile old distributor, and change it to a
Pertronics/Lumenition/ electronic actuation system - your car will definitely
run better, and smoother than before you fitted the Pertronix. In fact - the
more worn out your old distributor is - the happier you'll be with the
Pertronix - hence all the positive postings.
- If you put a new (rebuilt to spec) points based Lucas distributor, with a
correct advance curve to suit the cam timing, compression ratio and the fuel
you run in your engine in 2003, into your car - and then tuned your car, reset
your carbs etc - you'll pick up noticeable seat of the pants bhp and get
better fuel economy, and the car will be smoother.
- If you put a new (rebuilt to spec) points based Lucas distributor, with a
correct advance curve etc in your car - drove it and got used to the
improvements - and then removed the points & condensor from your rebuilt
regraphed Lucas distributor - and fitted a pertronix - you would notice no
difference under 6,000 rpm There would be no measurable improvement. NONE. No
additional smoothness etc - no improvements at all - not until you were
revving past 6,000 rpm.
- If you have a worn out old 80,000 mile old distributor, with a Pertronics
fitted - and you got it rebuilt with a correct advance curve to suit the cam
timing, compression ratio and the fuel you run in your engine in 2003 - and
then tuned your car, reset your carbs etc - you'll probably pick up noticeable
bhp and get better fuel economy - and you would never have a points bounce
problem, and you would be able to continue making great BHP over 6,000rpm
(provided your engine was capable of it).
Getting the advance curve set to a sensible specification - for your engine
spec - and for your use of your Healey - and for the fuel you use - makes a
big difference. Ask anyone who has had their advance curve regraphed. If you
can't find someone 'local' to do this - Barry Campbell from the Austin Healey
Owners Club here in Sydney has done this for over 40 other healey people.
Barry has a large commercial Distributor analyser machine - which he has
converted to extremely accurate digital readouts (rather than swinging
needles).
And he understands advance curves and Healey engines - and has done heaps of
dyno and road testing.
And - aside from being a good bloke - Barry is retired and spends a
ridiculous, non commercial, amount of time doing this stuff. Did I mention
that Barry is fastidious ? : ) With the Australian peso - that makes
it pretty affordable (around $US100 - $US190 plus freight of approx $US25 -
depending on whats wrong, what model it is, and what parts/ machining is
required on your one - sometimes he has exchange or outright sale ones -
mostly BJ8 type) to get you distributor as close to 'perfect' as possible.
Barry built the distributor in my BJ8 (actually - he has built me a few -
we've tried several advance curves and done a lot of testing!)
The black & white car now has a 6 cylinder version of the no vacuum advance
Lucas 23D4 - a 23D6 - a Lucas mechanical advance only distributor. Totally
legal in all historic racing. The 23D4 is what the early/mid 1960's mini
cooper S had, and all the works Sprites/ Minis etc - with a fixed plate, no
Vacuum advance...)
So I now have one of the 'mythical' works type Lucas 23D6 distributors (as
fitted to the triple webered DHMCo prepared Sebring/ Lemans 3000's) in my BJ8
- with an advance curve tailored for my engine specs........... and no vacuum
advance. You see - you can't run a standard Healey/ Lucas Vacuum advance with
triple webers on a Healey - but that's another story... And if I ever got a
Dennis Welch steel bottom end - I'd put the Pertronix LU 162AP12 inside
it....
No commercial interest in any of this - yaddah yaddah - just passing on stuff
which may help others.
Best regards
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
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From "ENQUIRIES" <enquiries at ukhealey.co.uk>
From: <BTARH2O@aol.com>
To: <hoyo@bellsouth.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 2 May 2003 09:23:31 +0100
Subject: Re: separating steering column tube
Cheers.
Steve Jowett UK HEALEY
AUSTIN HEALEY - MG - TRIUMPH - JAGUAR
ASTON MARTIN
www.ukhealey.co.uk
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From "tfelts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, May 02, 2003 2:47 AM
Subject: Lucas Distributors, Pertronix, ignition advance curves, Healeys and
Chris wrote: "Most people buy a Pertronix - and spend their $US70 plus
freight (or more) -
basically to compensate for the fact that their 35 - 50 year old distributor
is worn out."
I doubt this Chris. I bought mine for reliability and the fact that I
didn't have to adjust points frequently.
FWIT
Tom
>
>
>______________________________________
>
>Chris Dimmock
>Sydney Australia
>
>http://www.myaustinhealey.com
>______________________________________
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From TimWardUK at aol.com
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 2 May 2003 04:54:42 EDT
Subject: Re: Lucas Distributors, Pertronix, ignition advance curves,
> I doubt this Chris. I bought mine for reliability and the fact that I
> didn't have to adjust points frequently.
>
> FWIT
> Tom
Nothing is infallible. My Pertronix failed after less than a year in the
middle of France. I have a new one, but I am still carrying the points etc.
in case I have to rebuild again. I like the points adjusting point! But I
think that Chris is also right about old distributors
Tim Ward
Warwick House
12 Mill Road
Kislingbury
Northants. NN7 4BB
Tel: 07855 388 751
www.TimWardAssociates.com
www.SixSigmaWorks.co.uk
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 2 May 2003 19:45:30 +1000
Subject: Re: Lucas Distributors, Pertronix, ignition advance curves,
I'm curious why you signed off as "FWIT Tom"? In Australia, I probably
wouldn't have called you that......
Best regards
Chris
> Chris wrote: "Most people buy a Pertronix - and spend their $US70 plus
> freight (or more) -
> basically to compensate for the fact that their 35 - 50 year old
distributor
> is worn out."
>
> I doubt this Chris. I bought mine for reliability and the fact that I
> didn't have to adjust points frequently.
>
> FWIT
> Tom
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 2 May 2003 05:05:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Lucas Distributors, Pertronix, ignition advance curves,
Also sorry to hear your Pertronix went bad, but
they'll replace it no cost if it goes bad.... I keep
points in the trunk as well. FYI points can go bad on
the road too!
cheers,
Alan
--- tfelts <tfelts@prodigy.net> wrote:
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
> To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Friday, May 02, 2003 2:47 AM
> Subject: Lucas Distributors, Pertronix, ignition
> advance curves, Healeys and
> myths. A long post...
>
>
> Chris wrote: "Most people buy a Pertronix - and
> spend their $US70 plus
> freight (or more) -
> basically to compensate for the fact that their 35 -
> 50 year old distributor
> is worn out."
>
> I doubt this Chris. I bought mine for reliability
> and the fact that I
> didn't have to adjust points frequently.
>
> FWIT
> Tom
> >
> >
> >______________________________________
> >
> >Chris Dimmock
> >Sydney Australia
> >
> >http://www.myaustinhealey.com
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From "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson at earthlink.net>
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 2 May 2003 05:11:13 -0700
Subject: RE: Tips for spring installation
Best,
Greg
67 BJ8
> -----Original Message-----
>
> Hello List. I am starting a new project this weekend installing new
> rear springs in my 61BN7. Any tips or suggestions from anyone will be
> appreciated. Is there anything in particular I should watch out for or
> pay any special attention??
> Ron
> BN7
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 2 May 2003 08:17:31 -0400
Subject: California plates
If there is anyone on the list with the following California license plates on
their Healey, please contact me:
1HMR086
3WYE960
CJC339
RDUMCAR
UZN808
Thanks, and Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
Havelock, NC
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From "James Sailer" <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 2 May 2003 09:02:40 -0600
Subject: Interior rear quarter panels
A quick question. Did 3000s equipped with leather interiors originally come
with interior rear quarter panels that did not have the heat embossed
squares? It seems there are several books with photos that show plain rear
panels in leather equipped cars (and it makes sense since squares would
contrast with the rib design on the leather back seat). I'd love some
feedback as I am equipping my BJ8 with a leather interior.
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
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From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 2 May 2003 08:11:28 -0700
Subject: RE: Hub Extensions
I just wanted to post the fix for the hub extension threading problem. Fred
had e-mailed me his fix, and this worked great.
Valve lapping paste, I never would have thought of this! Here's a copy of
Fred's fix.
Frank,
I ran into the very same problem with my passenger side rear knock-off. I
interchanged everything the same as you and there appeared to be no problem.
The knock-off would thread on a turn or two and then jamb.
I took extra fine valve grinding paste and applied it liberally to the hub.
I wrapped the knock-off ears in duct tape. I threaded the knock-off as far
as it would go and then smacked the knock-off lightly with a heavy hammer
and a wooden block so that it moved about a quarter turn. I backed off ,
repeatedly rotated the knock-off back and forth, by hand now, in the new
position time and again. Then I checked both sets of threads and repeated
the process. More paste, 1/4 turn extra, back off, work it by hand and so
on and so on. When the knock-off was about half way home, I checked the hub
with the front knock-off and everything was still fine.
This process took me about a 1/2 hour. By the way, I did the last 2 full
turns with the wheel remove. Repeat the process until the knock-off bottoms
out. I checked the rear hub with the front knock-off, things were ok. I
put the knock-off from the rear on the front and there was still no problem.
Be absolutely sure you clean both of the knock-offs and the hubs THOROUGHLY
when you are finished. This prevents continuing the cutting process each
time you remove and replace the knock-off.
I did this process on my car about 6 years ago and no problem of any kind.
It must have something to do with the right rear hub thread cutting process.
When done, I found the threads were very sharp and the 2 knocks-off were
still interchangeable.
Good luck. If you have question, email me. Let me know how it turns out
for you.
Fred
-----Original Message-----
From: Golding, Frank [mailto:frank.golding@plantronics.com]
Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2003 1:35 PM
To: List Healeys
Subject: Hub Extensions
List,
Can't get the Knock Offs to thread onto my new rear hub extensions.
When starting my restoration I found that I had two spun wheels, after
checking the spline on the hub extensions I decided to replace all 4 hub
extensions & Knock Offs. I purchased new hub extensions and Knock-Offs (12
TPI) from Ah Spares a few months back.
Both left & right knock-offs screw onto the respective front hub extensions
with no problem. Yet the Knock offs will not screw onto the new rear
extensions. I checked the TPI on the rear hub extensions, and they are both
12 threads per inch. Since both right and both left Knock offs will screw
onto the front extensions, I must say the knock-offs are good. I also used
my wire wheel to clean up the threads on one of the rear extensions,
thinking that might help, but to no avail.
Has any-one run into this problem before, and have any suggestions, short of
returning the extensions to England?
Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
Cheers,
Frank Golding
1960 BN7 # 10610
Running chassis on track for May 18th 2003!
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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 02 May 2003 09:26:46 -0600
Subject: Re: Lucas Distributors, Pertronix, ignition advance
An excellent review of a problem which confronts most of us but which is sorely
overlooked when we spend thousands on an engine re-build, the distributor. Over
the last three years I have followed the discussions on Pertronix ignition
system
with interest, I've spoken to a excellent mechanic here (he's a close friend as
well) about electronic system replacements for our "vintage" car, Tom's bottom
line, and one I've always subscribed to is that the Lucas distributors were used
in cars that ran at races such as Le Mans without problems. Therefore maintained
properly there is no need for a substitute. Again thanks for the very
instructive
post.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
'65 BJ8
'89 Morgan 4/4
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From "Paul Negus" <Paul.Negus at iplbath.com>
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 2 May 2003 16:57:35 +0100
Subject: Subject: RE: Hub Extensions
This is exactly what the Healey racing team did as part of standard
preparation, so that the knock-offs would rotate easily when the cars came into
the pits for a tyre change. I can't remember where I read it - could be
Browning and Needham's book?
Regards
Paul
Date: Fri, 2 May 2003 08:11:28 -0700
From: "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding@plantronics.com>
Subject: RE: Hub Extensions
List,
I just wanted to post the fix for the hub extension threading problem. Fred
had e-mailed me his fix, and this worked great.
Valve lapping paste, I never would have thought of this! Here's a copy of
Fred's fix.
Frank,
I ran into the very same problem with my passenger side rear knock-off. I
interchanged everything the same as you and there appeared to be no problem.
The knock-off would thread on a turn or two and then jamb.
I took extra fine valve grinding paste and applied it liberally to the hub.
I wrapped the knock-off ears in duct tape. I threaded the knock-off as far
as it would go and then smacked the knock-off lightly with a heavy hammer
and a wooden block so that it moved about a quarter turn. I backed off ,
repeatedly rotated the knock-off back and forth, by hand now, in the new
position time and again. Then I checked both sets of threads and repeated
the process. More paste, 1/4 turn extra, back off, work it by hand and so
on and so on. When the knock-off was about half way home, I checked the hub
with the front knock-off and everything was still fine.
This process took me about a 1/2 hour. By the way, I did the last 2 full
turns with the wheel remove. Repeat the process until the knock-off bottoms
out. I checked the rear hub with the front knock-off, things were ok. I
put the knock-off from the rear on the front and there was still no problem.
Be absolutely sure you clean both of the knock-offs and the hubs THOROUGHLY
when you are finished. This prevents continuing the cutting process each
time you remove and replace the knock-off.
I did this process on my car about 6 years ago and no problem of any kind.
It must have something to do with the right rear hub thread cutting process.
When done, I found the threads were very sharp and the 2 knocks-off were
still interchangeable.
Good luck. If you have question, email me. Let me know how it turns out
for you.
Fred
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 2 May 2003 09:51:50 -0700
Subject: RE: Lucas Distributors
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From "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard at Coalfiresystems.com>
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 2 May 2003 11:11:57 -0600
Subject: More Door Gap Questions
Thank you in advance!
Ken
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From "tfelts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 2 May 2003 13:52:52 -0400
Subject: Re: Lucas Distributors, Pertronix, ignition advance curves,
Actually, I meant FWIW.
tom
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>; tfelts
<tfelts@prodigy.net>
Date: Friday, May 02, 2003 6:14 AM
Subject: Re: Lucas Distributors, Pertronix, ignition advance curves, Healeys
and myths. A long post...
>Hi Tom,
>
>I'm curious why you signed off as "FWIT Tom"? In Australia, I probably
>wouldn't have called you that......
>
>Best regards
>
>Chris
>
>
>
>> Chris wrote: "Most people buy a Pertronix - and spend their $US70 plus
>> freight (or more) -
>> basically to compensate for the fact that their 35 - 50 year old
>distributor
>> is worn out."
>>
>> I doubt this Chris. I bought mine for reliability and the fact that I
>> didn't have to adjust points frequently.
>>
>> FWIT
>> Tom
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From "tfelts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 2 May 2003 13:56:36 -0400
Subject: Re: Lucas Distributors, Pertronix, ignition advance curves,
I also carry extra points and a spare Pertronix, just in case, but after 6
years, have needed neither.
Cheers
tom
-----Original Message-----
From: TimWardUK@aol.com <TimWardUK@aol.com>
To: tfelts@prodigy.net <tfelts@prodigy.net>; cd3000@bigpond.net.au
<cd3000@bigpond.net.au>; healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, May 02, 2003 5:20 AM
Subject: Re: Lucas Distributors, Pertronix, ignition advance curves, Healeys
and myths...
>In a message dated 02/05/2003 09:46:21 GMT Standard Time,
tfelts@prodigy.net
>writes:
>
>
>> I doubt this Chris. I bought mine for reliability and the fact that I
>> didn't have to adjust points frequently.
>>
>> FWIT
>> Tom
>
>Nothing is infallible. My Pertronix failed after less than a year in the
>middle of France. I have a new one, but I am still carrying the points etc.
>in case I have to rebuild again. I like the points adjusting point! But I
>think that Chris is also right about old distributors
>Tim Ward
>Warwick House
>12 Mill Road
>Kislingbury
>Northants. NN7 4BB
>Tel: 07855 388 751
>
>www.TimWardAssociates.com
>www.SixSigmaWorks.co.uk
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From "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios at snet.net>
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 2 May 2003 14:49:37 -0400
Subject: Myrtle
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From "nick klein" <klein.ns at worldnet.att.net>
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 2 May 2003 12:34:08 -0700
Subject: Gas tank advice?
Nick Klein (BUNDRGN)
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From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 02 May 2003 13:53:52 -0700
Subject: Re: Gas tank advice?
I had my tank cleaned and coated by the Radiator Doctor on Park Avenue in
San Jose. You can get kits to do it yourself. One problem, however, is the
screen filter on the pickup pipe inside the tank. That became coated and
caused a fuel flow problem. I figured out a way to clean it but it involves
drilling a hole in the pickup fitting on top of the tank. I believe the
Radiator Doctor charges about $125-150 dollars and the kits are about $75.
There are people that have had them coated successfully but I would
recommend that you replace the tank. There is a guy that sells tanks on
Ebay (around $225 dollars with tax and shipping) and they seem OK to me. I
have one in the garage if you would like to come by and look at it. Drop me
a line with you telephone number if you are interested and I will call. I
should be home most of the weekend just working on the healey.
John
'62 BT7
At 12:34 PM 5/2/03 -0700, you wrote:
>Fifteen years ago when I bought my Healey, I removed the gas tank, flushed it
>out and sloshed some sealant around in it. I don't recall what it was though.
>Last weekend on a trip down to Santa Barbara I noticed that the fuel filter
>harbored some rust colored sediment. I cleaned it out and had the same
>situation when I returned home to San Jose.
>I used hi test gasoline and CD2 lead substitute which I eliminated on my last
>two fill-ups to see if it could have been the CD2.
>The sediment is uniform in size (not flakes), very small, almost sludge like
>but still solid.
>I'm planning to remove the tank and have it flushed.
>Question: What is the process for doing this? Are there businesses who do
>this? Can one do it themselves with very hot water and then air dry it with
>hot air?
>Suggestions please.
>
>Nick Klein (BUNDRGN)
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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 2 May 2003 17:12:12 -0500
Subject: Derrington Wheel---cleaning out the garage.
Anyone interested at $175? If that is high,.........make me an offer.
Brian Collins
Dallas, TX
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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 2 May 2003 17:55:47 -0500
Subject: Yikes!!----Steering wheel is sold!! Thanks
Thanks,
Brian
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 2 May 2003 18:56:04 -0400
Subject: See my crash on Speed NOW
Mike Salter
AHS3903
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From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 02 May 2003 16:21:00 -0700
Subject: Frame Repair
Well, I made an engine cradle and I am taking and cataloging photos of the
Healey to start the disassembly and restoration. I just checked the
archives and did not find much on frame repair, at least for my problem.
The frame, where the inner 'A' arm is attached, between the front shock
mount and engine mount has collapsed on the inside. The 'A' mount tore off
and took some of the frame with it.
What is the best way to fix this? I have seen frame sections that are about
5' long, but installing that means removing and replacing the engine mount,
the chassis mount, and the front cross members.
When making this type of frame repair do people put a metal plate inside
the frame and weld to that?
Any ideas would be very much appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
John
'62 BT7
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From "George" <leavcast at infomagic.net>
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 2 May 2003 16:17:38 -0700
Subject: 100-4 harness routing
George Castleberry
Flagstaff, AZ
1954 BN1L-157155
1973 GMC Painted Desert
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From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 02 May 2003 16:28:26 -0700
Subject: Tri-Carb jet clearance
The clearance between the third carburetor jet, nearest the fire wall, and
the steering column tube is so close that it rubs if I don't flatten the
black plastic part of the jet a little bit. The steering column lines up
with the dash hole nicely, I have new rubber motor mounts and shimmed them
slightly to lift the engine but the clearance is still very tight.
Is it possible that the metal motor mounts are two short, i.e. from a
different model year for a healey? I have a '62 BT7. Has anyone else
experienced this and how did you fix it?
Thanks again.
John
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 02 May 2003 16:40:40 -0700
Subject: Re: Gas tank advice?
Good to see you on the list!
I have cleaned out Healey tanks a couple of times. I would suggest the
procedure if you suspect that you've gotten a bad load of gas.
Run the car 'till the tank is almost empty, and empty it into a drain pan
through the drain bolt on the bottom of the 'hump' - take a look at what
comes out with the gas. I suspect that you may find that the sealer you
used years ago is beginning to break down, and the tank itself is rusting.
Remove the tank, remove the sending unit, and run water through a garden
hose into it and slosh it around and out the fill tube spiggot until you
think that you have all of the loose sediment, etc. out. This part can be
very entertaining for the neighbours!
You can either run a hair dryer on hot setting for about an hour or so
jammed into the fill pipe spiggot, or do another slosh or two with about a
half gallon of methyl hydrate each time. This will remove all traces of
moisture from the tank. Be aware that either method may well do further
damage to the lining stuff that you used, depending on what it was. In
addition, I would add a bit of methyl hydrate to the first tank of gas as a
precaution.
If you see nothing further in the fuel filter after doing this, you know
that you got some crud with a recent fill-up, and you're all done with a
minimumun cost. If you still see junk in the fuel filter, I would recommend
a new tank, rather than spending significant money to re-seal the old one -
I've heard of too many problems with reduced tank capacity, feed tube
blockage, etc, etc.
If you decide you need to replace the tank, consider an aluminum
replacement. I have seen the ones that Moss supplies, I think for about
$350 US, and they are excellent. If you decide to go this route, be sure to
get a couple of good coats of paint on both the tank and the boot floor to
eliminate the possibility of electrolytic corrosion from dissimilar metals
in the boot.
Is BUNDRGN planning to be at Eureka in July?
Cheers,
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "nick klein" <klein.ns@worldnet.att.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 02, 2003 12:34 PM
Subject: Gas tank advice?
Fifteen years ago when I bought my Healey, I removed the gas tank, flushed
it
out and sloshed some sealant around in it. I don't recall what it was
though.
Last weekend on a trip down to Santa Barbara I noticed that the fuel filter
harbored some rust colored sediment. I cleaned it out and had the same
situation when I returned home to San Jose.
I used hi test gasoline and CD2 lead substitute which I eliminated on my
last
two fill-ups to see if it could have been the CD2.
The sediment is uniform in size (not flakes), very small, almost sludge like
but still solid.
I'm planning to remove the tank and have it flushed.
Question: What is the process for doing this? Are there businesses who do
this? Can one do it themselves with very hot water and then air dry it with
hot air?
Suggestions please.
Nick Klein (BUNDRGN)
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 2 May 2003 19:45:31 EDT
Subject: Re: Tri-Carb jet clearance
Dick Hosmer
BT7L18556
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From Ptuleysr at cs.com
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 2 May 2003 20:03:42 EDT
Subject: extra parts
oil pan - hit in bottom and leaks, will need metal work.
4 seater BT7 rear seat back wood frame - no upholestry -
BT7 door side panels made of masonite - not sure if original - don't think so
gasoline pipe cover (cardboard) for trunk
Price
60BT7
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 2 May 2003 18:58:44 -0500
Subject: Stator tube vibration revisited
Thanks to those who responded with suggestions, turns out it was the inner
steering column bouncing against the outer, so I was in the ballpark, the
fix was to adjust my steering column lower on the top (under the dash) end,
apparently there was enough bend in it to cause it to hit.
Only problem is now I have the steering wheel very close to my thighs, I
suspect I can adjust at the bottom the steering box then and then adjust at
the top up a half inch or so, but right now I am just happy I can drive
without the car sounding like it is coming apart.
Not really asking for advice, just posing a solution to a possible problem
for others, and expressing my eleation is solving a problem that perplexed
me for some time.
Happy (and relatively quiet) Healying
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 2 May 2003 18:35:45 -0700
Subject: The sun came out to play
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 2 May 2003 18:38:49 -0700
Subject: Re: Tri-Carb jet clearance
Had the same problem when I installed the engine in my BN7 MK2.
Do not cut any material off the jet base. Look at the screw-on panels where
the steering column passes through the fire wall seal. You will see that
the hole for the seal is off-set. If you rotate these panels 180 degrees,
and loosen the clamp at the steering gear box, you can move the steering
column outboard just enough to clear the rear jet.
The bad news is that you have to pull the steering column assy to do this.
I suppose you could cut these thin metal panels, and split them , rotate
them, and reinstall them while leaving the seals on the steering column.
John Snyder
> Me Again.
>
> The clearance between the third carburetor jet, nearest the fire wall, and
> the steering column tube is so close that it rubs if I don't flatten the
> black plastic part of the jet a little bit. The steering column lines up
> with the dash hole nicely, I have new rubber motor mounts and shimmed them
> slightly to lift the engine but the clearance is still very tight.
>
> Is it possible that the metal motor mounts are two short, i.e. from a
> different model year for a healey? I have a '62 BT7. Has anyone else
> experienced this and how did you fix it?
>
> Thanks again.
> John
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From NPaul72464 at aol.com
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 2 May 2003 21:50:16 EDT
Subject: Re: Tri-Carb jet clearance
Ned Paulsen
Rochester, NY
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 2 May 2003 22:31:08 EDT
Subject: Re: 100-4 harness routing
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 2 May 2003 23:09:42 -0400
Subject: Re: See my crash on Speed NOW
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From MeditionM at netscape.net
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 02 May 2003 23:09:50 -0400
Subject: RE: separating steering column tube
joe mulqueen <joemulqueen@yahoo.com> wrote:
>Hello,
>I'm still wondering if anyone ever separated the
>steering column outer tube from the box. I'm not sure
>if it's threaded or pressed in. I was thinking of
>powdercoating the tube separately if possible.
>Thanks for any ideas,
>Joe Mulqueen
>'60 BT7
>Redondo Beach
__________________________________________________________________
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From <Joe at farley.net>
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 2 May 2003 20:34:19 -0700
Subject: RE: See my crash on Speed NOW
http://www.speedtv.com
Select Program schedule and you can search for what ever you like
You can also enter your zip code so times are in your local time zone.
e.g, I put in targa and came up with:
Time Program Description 2 Programs Found
Saturday, May 10, 2003
10:00 pm Targa Newfoundland
Monday, May 12, 2003
1:00 pm Targa Newfoundland
=============================================
Joe@Farley.net
'66 BJ8
'77 C77/R @ DVO
NIL DESPERANDVM ET ILLIGITIMVM CABERVNDON EL MONDO
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From Larry Hewlett <hewlettlj at shaw.ca>
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 02 May 2003 21:36:11 -0700
Subject: re:separating steering column tube
Regards
Larry Hewlett
BJ7
Peachland, B.C.
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2003 00:23:22 +1000
Subject: Re: any AH 3000 with Brookland screens out there
But there is an original factory aeroscreen used for 100s, cast with the
AH - as per the 100 Special tuning booklet - currently on eBay.
A lovely period piece for your genuine 100M or 100 LeMans
Two blokes are going hammer & tongs at it - the bidding is over $US700 (this
is not a typo - over seven hundred US dollars)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=10076&item
=2412935135
Item number is 2412935135 if that link doesn't work
And - the reserve is not yet met !!! and there are 4 days to go!
I feel another rash of 100M 'comments' coming on..............
No commercial interest in this auction - just, well, bewilderment
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2003 9:07 AM
Subject: any AH 3000 with Brookland screens out there
> Anybody have a 3000 with Brooklands windscreens that might email me a
pic??
>
> TIA
> Brian Collins
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 May 2003 18:49:16 +1000
Subject: Lucas Distributors, Vacuum advance, and triple webers - another
Ken - At the risk of curing your insomnia.......
The vacuum advance unit on your Lucas distributor works by a vacuum causing
the diaphragm to pull on a rod/spring attached to the distributor baseplate,
rotating the base plate in the opposite direction to the shaft rotation, and
thereby advancing the ignition timing. As the vacuum decreases, the return
spring pushes the distributor base plate back into it's original position.
There are two 'potential' sources for the vacuum to operate this vacuum
advance unit - you can get it either at the carb butterfly ("ported vacuum")
or from the inlet manifold ("manifold port")
Healeys were configured with Lucas ignition distributors with a vacuum
advance which required a supply of "Ported vacuum" (like most SU equipped
BMC cars of the 1960s). They got their vacuum from a tiny little tap, right
behind the butterfly, operating as a venturi, directly on one of the SU carb
throats. Typically - you had at least 2 cylinders (eg 100/4, Sprite,
tricarbs etc) 'sucking' through one carb - and sometime 3 cylinders sucking
through one carb (100/6, BJ8 etc).
The "ported vacuum" method supplies the vacuum to operate the vacuum advance
unit in such a way to give additional ignition advance under part throttle
conditions. The higher the revs, on the road, at light throttle - the more
vacuum the ported vacuum pickup supplies.
There is, nominally no vacuum at idle, at the ported vacuum pickup position
on the SU (as the throttle is effectively 'closed' where the venturi is) -
but once the throttle is opened (light throttle), the vacuum rises and the
vacuum advance on the distributor starts to work. At light engine load -
minimal throttle opening - (eg highway cruising) more advance means better
fuel economy - and the Healey vacuum advance is designed to give your engine
up to 8 degrees more advance.
Most Healey 3000s have a "5 - 12 - 8 vacuum advance" - which means that it
doesn't start operating until vacuum reaches 5 Hg/in (inches of mercury)
and gives a maximum 8 crankshaft degrees of vacuum actuated advance, at a
maximum vacuum reading of 12 Hg/in (inches of mercury)
The 'other' sort of vacuum setup is where the distributor vacuum pickup was
tapped directly from the intake manifold (not the carb throat at the
butterfly) - and is
usually found (usually) on post 1970's cars - when car makers started to get
'green'. In this scenario, with a 'manifold port'- Vacuum is highest at
idle, and under deceleration - and vacuum reduces under throttle opening -
down to no vacuum at wide open throttle on the road. When you open the
throttle the manifold vacuum drops - i.e. the 'manifold port' has the strong
vacuum reading with the butterfly closed - i.e. at idle and under
deceleration.
i.e. a 'Manifold port' provides vacuum at exactly the OPPOSITE engine
throttle position to 'ported vacuum'. Manifold port vacuum advance was
typically for distributors which had more total mechanical advance, than
those distributors using SU carb ported vacuum - and the total vacuum
advance is usually a much smaller number than 8 - 10 degrees.
So - what does this all mean if you have a standard Healey distributor, with
Vacuum advance, and triple webers ??
When you put 3 webers on a 6 cylinder Healey - you no longer have the
correct 'ported manifold' pickup - because that was on the SUs you removed.
You also now have one inlet manifold runner per cylinder - each cylinder has
its own inlet - previously - two or 3 cylinders all 'sucked' through the
same manifold.
So what will happen if you drill a hole in one of the 6 inlet manifolds and
tap in your old vacuum pickup, and connect it to your 'I'm expecting ported
vacuum - not manifold vacuum' Healey distributor???
Well - your vacuum advance on your Healey distributor will now operate
exactly OPPOSITE to when it was designed to operate. It will advance itself
from idle before you open the throttle - and decrease the advance at light
cruising throttle - the exact opposite to what your engine wants..........
When you lift off the throttle - you'll get more advance (and it'll probably
start pinging!).... Your car will now have too much advance at idle (i.e. up
to 8 degrees too much); and too little advance for good fuel economy when
cruising at highway speed with a light throttle opening.
As a result - it won't idle very happily (as there is too much advance at
idle speeds) - and it'll almost certainly be pinging on gentle takeoff/ low
revs and when you get off the throttle .... and you'll be cursing your
webers (when your ignition is actually causing the problem).
So - if you have 3 webers on a Healey 3000 never connect your 'ported
vacuum' distributor's vacuum advance to a manifold vacuum port - because the
manifold vacuum port will make the Healey vacuum advance unit operate
exactly the OPPOSITE to how it was designed - and make your engine's advance
curve 'wrong' - and your car will ping and your engines lack of ability to
idle will be a frustration......
On my Healey with triple webers, it has always had the vacuum advance unit
'disconnected' from the Healey 25D6 BJ8 distributor. But with all the
stuffing about with Distributors, advance curves and engine testing work
I've been doing lately with Barry, I did some extra research.
Lucas had actually designed a distributor with no vacuum advance facility
fitted - it utilised mechanical advance only - the fabled 23D6 (6 cyl) and
23D4 (4 cyl). If you just 'disconnect' the vacuum advance in your Lucas 25D
BJ8 distributor - you still have 2 sliding base plates in your distributor-
which can now vibrate unless you lock them together.
So where do you get a 23D6 Lucas distributor? Well - Lucas made the 4
cylinder & 6 cylinder 23D and 25D distributors use near identical
interchangeable components.... but to my knowledge only the 23D4 was used on
production cars (Cooper S and Lotus Cortina etc). So you get a 4 cylinder
'Cooper S' 23D4 non vacuum advance distributor, and you rebuild it putting 6
cylinder 'guts' in it (and therefore making it into a 23D6) , and put on a 6
cyl side entry cap. Pretty neat trick eh!!
Who said a vacuum cleaner was the only product that Lucas designed that
didn't suck?
If you are lucky enough to have a close look at a genuine ex-works Donald
Healey Motor company built, triple webered Healey 3000 racecar - like Joe
Armor's ex Sebring BJ8 based 'Healey GT' here in Australia - you'll see that
a Lucas 23D6 is just what Geoff and Donald Healey fitted on the triple
webered Healeys they built back in 1965 for Sebring.
Best regards
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
IMPORTANT: This email is intended for the use of the individual
addressee(s) named above and may contain information that is
confidential, privileged or unsuitable for overly sensitive persons with
no sense of humour or irrational religious or environmental beliefs. Any
publication, distribution or copying of this email without prior
authorisation
or acknowledgement may be deemed to be an irritating social faux pas. Mate.
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From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 May 2003 05:58:26 EDT
Subject: Re: Gas tank advice?
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 May 2003 09:51:11 EDT
Subject: Re: Lucas Distributors, Vacuum advance, etc.
Sounds like you might be able to answer a couple of simple questions.
(1) Will I achieve any meaningful power increase by installing a BJ8 cam in
my otherwise stock tri-carb? The car will be a Sunday driver, not meant for
racing.
(2) If I swap cams, should I also swap distributors?
(3) What is the proper (set by timing light) advance for a 3000 running
nonleaded 92 RON (research octane number) gasoline, with a lead substitute?
This is only a temporary measure - see below.
I'm harvesting a spare BJ8 engine picked up years ago, so cost is not an
issue. I realize that if one had to pay retail for these parts, it probably
wouldn't be worth it. I will be having the "extra" head completely rebuilt
for use with unleaded gas, to be swapped into the car as soon as I can.
Thanks very much in advance.
Dick Hosmer
BT7L18556
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From "James Shope" <healeymanjim at JoiMail.com>
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 May 2003 07:56:43 -0700
Subject: bj7 voltage regulator
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From "John" <john4 at attbi.com>
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 May 2003 08:13:25 -0700
Subject: Marin Tour May 4
For more information contact Randy Harris at (510) 339-1414 or by email at
coop1@rcn.com
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From "James Shope" <healeymanjim at JoiMail.com>
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 May 2003 08:12:37 -0700
Subject: bj7 voltage regulator
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From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 May 2003 12:58:24 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: extra parts
You may want to hang onto that oil pan and use it to weld a Sump Protection
Plate. Some time ago
I acquired a "Austin Service Journal" in which bulletin A/306 dated 11 Nov.
1960 detailed the
conversion of the oil pan. I have attached a .pdf file about the conversion.
Alternatively, writeups can be found at either of the following fantastic web
sites.
Jim Werner's http://hometown.aol.com/bgahc/jimwerner.html
Ed at JustBrits http://www.justbrits.com/sump/sumpplate.htm
--Scott
--- Ptuleysr@cs.com wrote: << I have the following left over from fixing up my
60 BT7. I replaced
the items so you can be sure the condition of this is not real good. They would
be OK for someone
on a budget. Pics are available to interested parties.
oil pan - hit in bottom and leaks, will need metal work. ........ Price
60BT7 >>
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name
of Oil Pan Protection Plate..pdf]
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From Ronald Fine <ronfineesq at earthlink.net>
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 03 May 2001 10:14:24 -0700
Subject: Fuel Filter for 61BN7
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 May 2003 13:10:43 EDT
Subject: A Different Distributor Question
On my BJ8 my distributor body actually cracked while I was driving. (too much
shaft wear) I used a 25D distributor body that was NOS for a Sprite ($25)
and swapped the internals with my old distributor.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
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From "Kip Williams" <kipannette at hotmail.com>
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 03 May 2003 18:08:33 +0000
Subject: Re: Tri-Carb jet clearance
_________________________________________________________________
MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE*
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From "K.B., '67 BJ8" <TheBeast at oomax.com>
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 May 2003 11:57:08 -0700
Subject: Measurement Conversion
So Ive converted my handy Metric to U.S. & Imperial conversion chart and
used BIG FONTS.
It has fractional / decimal / mm equivalents from 1/64 to 3 and prints out
nicely on 2 sheets of 8.5 x 11 (215.9 x 279.4mm) paper.
Ive attached it as a PDF file, but if that doesnt come through, drop me an
email request and Ill email it back direct.
Enjoy!
K.B., 67 BJ8
TheBeast@oomax.com
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name
of conversion.pdf]
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 May 2003 12:09:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Intersting Shock bolts
__________________________________
The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo.
http://search.yahoo.com
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From Douglas W Flagg <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 May 2003 15:19:09 -0400
Subject: Re:Non-Healey Dash
Happy Healeying,
Doug
'56 BN2
________________________________________________________________
The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today!
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 May 2003 15:56:54 -0400
Subject: Re: See my crash on Speed NOW
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From "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete at skynet.be>
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 May 2003 23:10:03 +0200
Subject: Specials
I have a special request : does any of you guys know about any works cars
for sale or unique, special Healeys. I am aware that every Healey is special
to us all and this is the reason we cherish them so much. I am looking for
one of these for a friend of mine.
Best regards and enjoy the spring driving weather,
Bruno Verstraete
Zurich (Switzerland)
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From NPaul72464 at aol.com
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 May 2003 18:31:52 EDT
Subject: Re: Fuel Filter for 61BN7
The fuel filter on my BN7 is, as you suggest, between the metal fuel line and
the flex line at # 1 carb. I put in a WIX 33011 filter which fit perfectly.
Ned Paulsen
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From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 May 2003 19:36:31 -0400
Subject: Door opening finishing plates
How are the channels for the draft excluder rubber strips installed/attached?
Is the sill finishing plate attached only on the inside edge or is it also
attached with screws on the outside edge?
How is the door column finishing plate installed? Are the screws along the
outer edge tapped into the fender where it wraps around the column, or into
the column itself?
Do the screws holding the column finishing plate go through the beading
installed under the outer edge of the plate?
The car was purchased with these pieces missing, & squinting at the pictures
in the Anderson/Moment book isn't working either.
Does anyone happen to have a digital photo of these aluminum plates
installed?
Thanks,
Mick Vander Ploeg
'57 Longbridge BN4
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 4 May 2003 12:35:15 +1000
Subject: Re: A Different Distributor Question
Generally speaking:
With the engine stopped, or eg dizzy on bench:
The lighter spring is always under tension.
The heavier spring is lose on its pins and therefore not under tension.
As soon as the engine starts to turn, the centrifugal force overcomes the
light spring and the ignition starts to advance. As the ignition starts to
advance, the slack in the stronger spring is taken up and the stronger
spring - now working with the weaker spring - slows the rate of ignition
advance from that point on. The arm on the cam limits the total mechanical
advance in the distributor at a predefined number of degrees - by hitting a
stop.
Loosening a spring, tightening a spring, fitting springs of different size
wire diameter, length and number of coils, and swapping springs across to
the other post; are typically methods of changing the advance curve - i.e.
how much advance you have at a different number of rpm. It is a very time
consuming and incredibly detailed 'trial & error' job. You can often
achieve the same curve any number of ways, using different components.
The main reason that 35 year old distributors are worn out is because people
haven't maintained them. The workshop manual says:
Every 3,000 miles you should:
1 - lightly smear the distributor cam with engine oil - or grease (where
the points block rubs)
2 - pull the rotor button, and add a few drops of light machine oil to
lubricate the cam bearing
3 - lightly lubricate the contact breaker pivot.
Even if you have a Pertronix fitted - you still need to do 2. above - i.e.
pull the rotor and oil the cam bearing (don't undo the screw - just wipe it
out & put 3 or 4 drops of oil in the 'hole'; on top of the screw under the
rotor.) The advance weights are connected by pins to the cam - they are not
directly connected to the mainshaft - and this cam slopping around (because
the baring is worn and is not being lubricated) is affecting your advance
curve.
Maintenance of the cam bearing is scheduled TWICE as often as
filing/adjusting the points - and fitting a Pertronix doesn't exempt you
from it!
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jwhlyadv@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 04, 2003 3:10 AM
Subject: A Different Distributor Question
> A Different Distributor Question - Two small springs on the advance
weights
> on a BJ8. One is heavier than the other. Which goes where? I used the
lighter
> spring to allow advance and the heavier spring to return the weights as a
> best guess.
>
> On my BJ8 my distributor body actually cracked while I was driving. (too
much
> shaft wear) I used a 25D distributor body that was NOS for a Sprite ($25)
> and swapped the internals with my old distributor.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Werner
> Louisville, KY
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 May 2003 22:11:03 -0500
Subject: Re: A Different Distributor Question
Mark
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From "Pamela Holmes" <holmes at mcn.org>
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 May 2003 20:22:51 -0700
Subject: Healey Screensaver
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
Clear Day Bkgrd.JPG]
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 May 2003 23:31:42 -0700
Subject: Pinion seal
Can the pinion seal be replaced without removing wheels, drums, half shafts,
etc? Can it be done in the car by disconnecting the driveshaft, removing the
pinion nut, and then the seal?
Thanks for any advice
Keith Pennell
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 03 May 2003 23:46:32 -0400
Subject: Re: Healey Screensaver
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pamela Holmes" <holmes@mcn.org>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 03, 2003 11:22 PM
Subject: Healey Screensaver
| Good Evening,
| My computer decided to bite the big one and I have lost the neat Austin
Healey
| Screen Saver. The Healey is sitting next to a lake with alot of beautiful
| trees in the background. Anybody have any idea's what site it is from.
Thank
| you Pamela Holmes
|
|
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From "Pamela Holmes" <holmes at mcn.org>
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 May 2003 20:50:32 -0700
Subject: Re: Healey Screensaver
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From "R. Poague" <rapoague at gte.net>
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 May 2003 22:24:44 -0700
Subject: Re: Pinion seal
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 03, 2003 11:31 PM
Subject: Pinion seal
> Listers,
>
> Can the pinion seal be replaced without removing wheels, drums, half
shafts,
> etc? Can it be done in the car by disconnecting the driveshaft, removing
the
> pinion nut, and then the seal?
>
> Thanks for any advice
> Keith Pennell
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From "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson at earthlink.net>
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 May 2003 23:17:11 -0700
Subject: RE: Intersting Shock bolts
Best,
Greg
67 BJ8
> -----Original Message-----
>
> I just visited "Luky's Hardware" in Burbank, CA.
> Previously "Joe Factor" but in a new location, this
> place has lots of new, unusual, surplus hardware -
> many are aircraft grade (that's the best, right?). I
> found a few styles I'm considering for my front shock
> mounts. All are 3/8"-24 but are different head
> styles. Some have shoulders. One has a patch lock.
> If anyone wants to see, I've taken a pic. And if
> anyone not in the area wants some, I may go back in
> the near future.
> Joe Mulqueen
> '60 BT7
> Torrance, CA
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From "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson at earthlink.net>
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 May 2003 23:17:12 -0700
Subject: RE: Pinion seal
Best,
Greg
67 BJ8
> -----Original Message-----
>
> Listers,
>
> Can the pinion seal be replaced without removing wheels, drums,
> half shafts,
> etc? Can it be done in the car by disconnecting the driveshaft,
> removing the
> pinion nut, and then the seal?
>
> Thanks for any advice
> Keith Pennell
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From "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson at earthlink.net>
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 May 2003 23:17:14 -0700
Subject: RE: Healey Screensaver
Best,
Greg
67 BJ8
> -----Original Message-----
>
> Go to www.healey.org and look under the album tag for Healey wallpaper.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 4 May 2003 00:30:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Tight shackle pin bushings
__________________________________
The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo.
http://search.yahoo.com
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 4 May 2003 05:10:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Intersting Shock bolts
You might this this a bit funny, but I have a few
aircraft grade aluminum bolts on my BJ8 from C-130s
that flew in Laos and Vietnam in the 70s...! They
really are amazing quality... But be a little
careful, I wouldn't use the aluminum ones on your
shock mounts.. I don't know if they can take the load
over time. Steel ones should be fine.
Cheers,
Alan
--- joe mulqueen <joemulqueen@yahoo.com> wrote:
> I just visited "Luky's Hardware" in Burbank, CA.
> Previously "Joe Factor" but in a new location, this
> place has lots of new, unusual, surplus hardware -
> many are aircraft grade (that's the best, right?).
> I
> found a few styles I'm considering for my front
> shock
> mounts. All are 3/8"-24 but are different head
> styles. Some have shoulders. One has a patch lock.
>
> If anyone wants to see, I've taken a pic. And if
> anyone not in the area wants some, I may go back in
> the near future.
> Joe Mulqueen
> '60 BT7
> Torrance, CA
>
> __________________________________
> The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo.
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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 4 May 2003 10:03:38 -0500
Subject: What is my complete HEALEY TRI-CARB set up worth?
It is in original UN-RESTORED grungy condition and has been packed away in a
box for at least 15 years. What is this set up worth?
Brian
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From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Healeyolic
Date: Sun, 4 May 2003 09:33:03 -0700
Subject: RE: Healey Screensaver
With GOD-like qualities John was able to answer Pamela's question 4 minutes
before it was posted. If only parts would mysteriously arrive at my doorstep
before I needed them, I'd die a happy Healey man... Or it could be a glitch
in the mail server. You make the call.
Best,
Greg
67 BJ8
> -----Original Message-----
>
> Go to www.healey.org and look under the album tag for Healey wallpaper.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
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From "Rick Neves" <Rick at genomictechnologies.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Healeyolic
Date: Sun, 4 May 2003 14:45:59 -0400
Subject: Footwell Repair on BN2
The seam is raised and creates an uneven surface for the footwell to rest on.
Do I cut a slice out of the footwell section to accommodate the raised seam?
or
Do I hack off the foot well repair section to the right of the seam?
Rick Neves
'56 BN-2
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From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Healeyolic
Date: Sun, 4 May 2003 16:49:00 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: What is my complete HEALEY TRI-CARB set up worth?
On April 20th, an eBay auction closed for a 100% complete set with HS4 Carbs --
Intake Manifolds
-- Exhaust Manifolds Head Shield -- Linkage -- Balance Tube -- Choke Hardware
-- Coopers Air
Cleaners. It was described as "...the most complete set-up you will find
anywhere. The linkage,
balance tube and air cleaners have been professionally plated. The breathers
even have the
original "Coopers" decals." It closed with 209 reviews and only 1 bid at $400
US and without the
reserve having been met. The auction Item number is 2411323174 and the link is
:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2411323174
Based on that result, the price would seem to be no higher than $400; and yours
is in an
"...original UN-RESTORED grungy condition."
Good luck.
--Scott Morris ['62 BT7 Tricarb]
--- Brian Collins <bc1@sbcglobal.net> wrote: << I have a complete Tri-carb set
up including
exhaust manifolds, intake manifolds, carbs, air filters, misc. plumbing, and
even throttle and
choke cables. It is in original UN-RESTORED grungy condition and has been
packed away in a box for
at least 15 years. What is this set up worth? Brian >>
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
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From "Haber, David J." <David.Haber at vtmednet.org>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Healeyolic
Date: Sun, 4 May 2003 17:02:02 -0400
Subject: Flooded engine
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From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Healeyolic
Date: Sun, 4 May 2003 14:32:09 -0700
Subject: RE: Flooded engine
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Haber, David J.
Sent: Sunday, May 04, 2003 2:02 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Flooded engine
Any suggestions on how to start a flooded engine? Or what to do if it
won't start? Thanks
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From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Sun, 4 May 2003 16:36:52 -0500
Subject: Re: What is my complete HEALEY TRI-CARB set up worth?
> Brian;
>
> On April 20th, an eBay auction closed for a 100% complete set with HS4
Carbs -- Intake Manifolds
> -- Exhaust Manifolds Head Shield -- Linkage -- Balance Tube -- Choke
Hardware -- Coopers Air
> Cleaners. It was described as "...the most complete set-up you will find
anywhere. The linkage,
> balance tube and air cleaners have been professionally plated. The
breathers even have the
> original "Coopers" decals." It closed with 209 reviews and only 1 bid at
$400 US and without the
> reserve having been met. The auction Item number is 2411323174 and the
link is :
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2411323174
>
> Based on that result, the price would seem to be no higher than $400; and
yours is in an
> "...original UN-RESTORED grungy condition."
>
> Good luck.
>
> --Scott Morris ['62 BT7 Tricarb]
>
> --- Brian Collins <bc1@sbcglobal.net> wrote: << I have a complete
Tri-carb set up including
> exhaust manifolds, intake manifolds, carbs, air filters, misc. plumbing,
and even throttle and
> choke cables. It is in original UN-RESTORED grungy condition and has been
packed away in a box for
> at least 15 years. What is this set up worth? Brian >>
>
>
> =====
> J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
>
> ______________________________________________________________________
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From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Sun, 4 May 2003 19:16:51 -0500
Subject: Re: bj7 voltage regulator
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8...running great!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> help is needed. just drove from portland to las vegas in my friends newly
> purchased bj7. blew a generator and regulator about 200 miles from home
and
> limped in on battery. got generator rebuilt locally, but need to know
where
> to purchase new regulator. moss has none and haven,t got to anybody else
yet.
> any suggestions will be appreciated. healeymanjim 66bj8
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From Chad Jester <triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Sun, 4 May 2003 17:36:28 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Odd BN6 Carburetor problem
---------------------------------
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From LarryRPH at aol.com
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Sun, 4 May 2003 20:39:03 EDT
Subject: Re: Flooded engine
You may have a bigger problem than you think - depending on how the engine
got flooded in the first place and how long you may been cranking it.
You say it won't start. You fail to mention whether the starter is turning
the engine over.
I would suggest that you stop the flooding and stop trying to start it for
now. Take out all the plugs and blow air into each cyclinder. Clean or
replace the plugs after checking for correct gap. Check timing and test to
see you are getting a spark from one of the plugs before you put it back into
engine.
Next , I would drain all the oil. as you may have diluted it with gas
leaking back into the oil pan from all the flooding. Cars have been known
to be set on fire by gasoline mixing with the oil. - also the lubricating
properties of the oil may have been compromised by gasoline dilution.
There are other things that could be tried but why not start with these
basics. Let me know how you do with these suggestions
Larry Wysocki
BN 6
BJ 7
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Sun, 4 May 2003 21:15:43 EDT
Subject: Re: Odd BN6 Carburetor problem
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
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From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Sun, 4 May 2003 21:24:16 EDT
Subject: Re: What is my complete HEALEY TRI-CARB set up worth?
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Sun, 4 May 2003 19:14:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: BN1 Gearbox Supplier
I posted about a week ago regarding my BN1 gearbox
which appears to be on the fritz.
Someone on this list suggested a gearbox supplier in
the UK and gave a website for me to check information.
I think it was one of the list members from Sweden or
Norway who had this information.
Can this person post the information again? I would
like to have a back up source for parts as I start
breaking into the gearbox.
Thank You...
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
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From "ROBERT HAY" <jerryhay at msn.com>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Sun, 4 May 2003 22:26:40 -0400
Subject: Batttery replacement
Thanks in advance,
Jerry
BT7 14299
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Sun, 4 May 2003 21:41:45 -0500
Subject: New Rear Spring Help
Thanks for your advise,
Mark,
58-MGA
60-MGA
76-MGB
74.5-MGBGT
60-BT7
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Sun, 4 May 2003 21:22:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Batttery replacement
The original size battery for a four seater is all but
non existent anymore. If you are not worried about
concours standards, I'd get any standard sized battery
from your local auto parts supplier - any standard
battery will fit back there because they are all
smaller batteries these days.
If you are looking for a battery suggestion, I'd get
an Optima or an Exide Orbital... very durable
batteries and they don't gass off or leak acid.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- ROBERT HAY <jerryhay@msn.com> wrote:
> I am replacing the battery for my BT7; can someone
> save me the trouble of
> measuring by supplying the original size. A brand
> name/model number would be
> helpful.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Jerry
>
> BT7 14299
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Sun, 4 May 2003 21:29:12 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: re. Tight shackle pin bushings
When I did my rear suspension I had a devil of a time
keeping the pin free to turn and still getting the
shackle pins bolted on. It just took (lots of)
time and some fine adjustments to keep it free moving.
If you can't turn the pin, then you have alignment
issues. Pop out the bushings and re-insert them until
they line up right. My problem was with the end
clearance. When I tightened on the shackles it didn't
have clearance to turn freely. I ended up filing off
some of the bushing to allow clearance to keep the pin
free moving. I'm working from memory but I think that
was the final solution. Well, I hope so. Haven't test
driven the car yet and checked to see if it
stillnmoves ok. Anyone else have ideas?
Ryan
BJ7
----- Original Message -----
From: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 04, 2003 3:30 AM
Subject: Tight shackle pin bushings
> Hello,
> I replaced the metal "press in" bushings in the rear
> spring hangers on my BT7 but now I can't install the
> shackle pins without pressing/beating them in (they
> should be free to rotate). I'm not sure if there
was
> a size problem with the loose parts (I didn't check)
> or the bushings distorted when I pressed 'em in.
Any
> one else ever have this problem?
> Thanks,
> Joe Mulqueen
> '60 BT7
> Torrance, CA
__________________________________
The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo.
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Sun, 04 May 2003 22:07:13 -0700
Subject: Re: Batttery replacement
Blue One Hundred wrote:
> Jerry -
>
> If you are looking for a battery suggestion, I'd get
> an Optima or an Exide Orbital... very durable
> batteries and they don't gass off or leak acid.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
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From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Mon, 05 May 2003 17:35:52 +1000
Subject: Update to Healey Site
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 06:55:32 -0500
Subject: Re: BN1 Gearbox Supplier
Alan,
I would contact Hardy Engineering in the UK. They are the only ones
that I know of who carries a lot of spare parts for these gearboxes +
lots of knowledge. Thinking about the rarity of your box I would speak
to them before keeping driving.
Hardy Engineering
enquiry@hardyengineering.co.uk
01372 378927
01372 376794
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
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From "David Zuiderveld" <davzu29 at earthlink.net>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 09:03:37 -0400
Subject: Driving light installation
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From "James Sailer" <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 07:57:56 -0600
Subject: BJ8 Progress and Misc Questions
Well my BJ8 is coming along... Did my usual friday visit to the body shop to
see progress on the final body prep and paint.. (rolling chassis underneath
completely done).. All final body preparations are complete and the car is
being blocked .... we replaced a dogleg.. took out some plastic (about 10
lbs) etc in this final stage and refitted all panels. nice panel gaps...
the only inconsistent gaps are around the boot.. but I don't think anyone
would notice.... All misc parts for final assembly are complete, sitting in
baggies, boxes and on shelves awaiting installation.. My heritage interior
is in boxes (although I need to return the smooth faced rear interior panels
for heat embossed ones... seems Heritage believes that leather interior cars
had smooth rear panels .. however I can find no build information that
sustantiates this ..except they say there are a number of photos that cleary
show it... who knows..)...
The only thing I am still considering rebuilding (or haing rebuilt) is my
distributor.. this has been a topic lately so I am peaked .... Anybody know
a good place to send it off to to get looked at (states)..?? Am still
searching for an NOS horn button but may need to get an aftermarket one..
minie is totally crazed and will detract ..... My new dash will get
partially assembled this weekend and placed on the shelf with the rest of
the part.... It is superb....
I will be needing a new tonneau.. anyone have expereince with where a
quality one can be had? Robbins, everflex from UK?
I have seen several postings concerning fuels filters... I am planning to
install mine just before the fuel pump. There is will decrease potential
for fuel pump problems, decrease the number of junctions near the carbs...
(loosening junctions near a hot exhaust manifold .. brrrrr...) .. Hopefully
this will be more of a non-issue as I am fitting a new aluminum gas tank....
Well. I hope to see final paint on the car soon... Maybe the red byu the
end of the week.. followed by the black coves next week... On the non-healey
side.. I have been having a total blast with my new Cooper S! license
plate 2FUNN
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8 coming along
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From Brian Burke <wharf-st at shaw.ca>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Mon, 05 May 2003 07:18:51 -0700
Subject: Footwell Repair
Brian
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 10:40:09 -0700
Subject: Re: What is my complete HEALEY TRI-CARB set up worth?
Nothing. Box it all up and send it to me. I will reim you for shipping.
:)
Keith Pennell
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 10:55:56 -0700
Subject: Re: Driving light installation
Some time back I added two driving lights to BN7 and I had the same Qs as
yours. I have lost all the replies but the gist of it is that the switch is
not designed to handle the amount of current for driving lights. I was
advised to go from hot source through a relay then to the lights, which I
did.
Perhaps other listers will shed more light on your Qs.
Keith Pennell
> I just purchsed a set of driving lights for my BJ-8 and am wondering about
the
> best way to make the electrical connections. I've thought of replacing my
> 1-postition panel light switch with a 2-position switch in an effort to
keep
> the interior original looking. I plan on using an in-line fuse for
safety.
> Is it all right to pick up power for these new lights off the panel
switch?
> Would there be a better option? I assume ground can be placed almost
> anywhere.
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 11:00:06 -0700
Subject: Re: Odd BN6 Carburetor problem
This is what is called an auxilliary choke, thermochoke, or automatic choke
here in the US. It was used in mid 1959 for about 3 months. I was not
aware they were installed on any BN6s. I have it on my BN7. If you will
look you will note you have no choke cable anywhere!
As far as the leak goes see the shop manuals on adjustments and then see if
it continues to leak.
If I can be of any further help let me know.
Keith Pennell
> List, I am working on a BN6 for a friend. The rear carb has some odd
device on it that appears to richen or lean the fuel mixture under certain
conditions. It has 3 rubber lines coming off it that go to the intake
manifold. This device is leaking fuel, and I'm wondering if it is really
necessary. Other vehicles I've worked on with SU carburetors do not have
this item. I would appreciate hearing from anyone who has encountered
problems with this device, and what you did to repair or eliminate the
device. Thanks! Chad Jester
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 11:01:20 -0700
Subject: Pinions seal reprise
Keith Pennell
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From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 10:14:03 -0500
Subject: Re: What is my complete HEALEY TRI-CARB set up worth?
> > I have a complete Tri-carb set up including exhaust manifolds, intake
> > manifolds, carbs, air filters, misc. plumbing, and even throttle and
choke
> > cables.
> >
> > It is in original UN-RESTORED grungy condition and has been packed away
in
> a
> > box for at least 15 years. What is this set up worth?
>
> Nothing. Box it all up and send it to me. I will reim you for shipping.
> :)
>
> Keith Pennell
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 08:31:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: re. New Rear Spring Help
Date: Sun, 4 May 2003 21:41:45 -0500
From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre"
<mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
Subject: New Rear Spring Help
Listers,
I just received a new set of original spec rear
springs from Moss for my Bt7. I carefully looked them
over and checked for the packing material between
leaves , which there is and the eye bolt bushings are
already installed, a plus. How ever I noticed that
one spring had a rattle to it as I was inspecting it..
This was coming from the very end leaf that is
wrapped around the eye bolt bushing and clamped down
with the end leaf clamp. I can move this end clamp a
little by hand,as well as the wrap- around-leaf ,on
the end. I can actually pinch this leaf at the clamp
with my fingers and visually see about an eighth of
an inch gap between leaves, open and close. Also I can
move this same leaf side-to-side about a sixteenth to
an eighth inch. This is the only end of these new
springs that does this. It seems to me that this area
was not properly pressed as well as clamped, but I'm
no expert in this area. Can I get some input on
whether or not I should expect this to correct itself
from the weight of the car or should I return to
sender.
Thanks for your advise,
__________________________________
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from Augusta Ga.
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Mon, 05 May 2003 12:14:19 -0400
Subject: e-mail needed
-
Thanks
Tom Blaskovics
AHCUSA,ACHA
BJ7 Registry
HBJ7L/22380
Morgantown, WV
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 12:13:00 -0400
Subject: RE: Driving light installation
This info was posted a while ago, but for your driving lamp project I
thought it might be worth posting again.
If you need a wiring diagram, I'd be happy to draw one for you if you send
me an SASE or a fax number to transmit it to. I can also take some JPEG
photos and send 'em along.
In my car, I installed an SPST (single-pole, single throw) relay with a 12-V
coil very close to the voltage regulator, and put a 35-A circuit breaker
just before the relay contacts. A small SPST toggle switch in the cockpit
feeds -12-V
from the blue-white (UW) wire feeding the lamp on the speedo bulb, so that
when the standard lamps are dipped using the footswitch, the feed to the
relay also goes off, thus simultaneously dipping the driving lights. The
other side of the relay goes to chassis ground (+).
The two driving lamps are wired in parallel, with either lamp's return
grounded to the chassis (+). That way there's only one feed to get -12-V
from the relay's output.
I also installed an in-line fuse from the bulb in the speedometer to the
toggle switch, and placed a 3-A fuse in it to protect the switch wiring and
the relay coil.
You can get very small circuit breakers and nice enclosed relays at any
2-way radio shop. Try and find a friendly parts department person or radio
installer. I use a Motorola relay and circuit breaker because they're both
sealed against dust and dirt. However, an open frame relay is also suitable.
Make sure the relay has at least 15-A contacts. If you see a relay that has
two poles (DPST), for example, and each is rated at, say, 5-A, you can
parallel the pair of contacts to give you a higher current-carrying
capability.
Use heavy wiring from the relay to the driving lamps, to ensure a low
voltage drop to the high-current lamps. I use stranded #10 gauge wire that's
glass insulated. It's a tad of overkill, but very nice. Makes a good
installation. You can get it from a fire/burglar alarm installation shop.
While you're at it, get some Nylon hold-down clamps, and be sure to use
grommets at any point where the wiring runs through the firewall or splash
pan.
In the case of the pair of Lucas 576 lamps on my Blue Mainie BT7, the feed
wires come out through the lamp stems so there's no need to put grommets on
the splash pan. On my old BJ8, I had installed Hella lamps and the wiring
for them went through grommets in holes in the front bumper's splash pan.
Try to solder all connections, and be sure to insulate them with high
temperature tape.
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
AI2Q http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 12:48:09 EDT
Subject: Re: Driving light installation
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Mon, 05 May 2003 10:15:24 -0700
Subject: Re: Driving light installation
We just did this on a friends' BJ8. We went the same route - changed the
panel switch to a headlight switch. You definitely need to wire through a
lighting relay, as the factory / dealers did when the cars were new.
This would mean that only the relay current would be routed through the new
switch - the power for the lights would be provided from the fuse block (or
the dipswitch wiring, depending upon what may be legal in your area) through
the relay. The installation of an in-line fuse is highly adviseable in this
power feed to the lights. The ground is done through the chassis - you have
to make sure that there is a good ground at the light mounting points.
We wired the new switch so that the centre position enabled the panel
lighting circuit, and that the down position enabled both the panel lights
and the driving light relay - worked like a damn, and no holes to drill for
another switch!
I could provide further information if required.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Zuiderveld" <davzu29@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 05, 2003 6:03 AM
Subject: Driving light installation
I just purchsed a set of driving lights for my BJ-8 and am wondering about
the
best way to make the electrical connections. I've thought of replacing my
1-postition panel light switch with a 2-position switch in an effort to keep
the interior original looking. I plan on using an in-line fuse for safety.
Is it all right to pick up power for these new lights off the panel switch?
Would there be a better option? I assume ground can be placed almost
anywhere.
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From Ronald Fine <ronfineesq at earthlink.net>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Mon, 05 May 2003 11:02:15 -0700
Subject: Rear Shock O ring seal
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 15:11:48 -0400
Subject: Re: Interior rear quarter panels
Leather interiors were not installed in cars (at least, in BJ8s) destined for
the North American market. Some cars that were "Personal Export Delivery" ---
i.e., where delivery was taken by the original owner in the U.K. for eventual
export to the States, did come with leather interior installed as an option.
I presume that the original owners of these cars specified leather (hide
upholstery, as it is called on the BMIHT certificates). I do not know whether
such a "leather interior" included the interior panels, or were just the seat
coverings, but I think it was just the seat coverings. Consequently, the
interior panels should have been the normal vinyl (Ambla), with the rear
panels embossed with the square pattern.
If you want to pursue this with the current owners of the "Personal Export
Delivery" cars with hide upholstery, please let me know. Perhaps some of
these cars still have the original interior.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: James Sailer
To: Healey List
Sent: Friday, May 02, 2003 11:02 AM
Subject: Interior rear quarter panels
Hi All,
A quick question. Did 3000s equipped with leather interiors originally
come
with interior rear quarter panels that did not have the heat embossed
squares? It seems there are several books with photos that show plain rear
panels in leather equipped cars (and it makes sense since squares would
contrast with the rib design on the leather back seat). I'd love some
feedback as I am equipping my BJ8 with a leather interior.
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
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From "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble at intel.com>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 11:30:53 -0700
Subject: britfeat
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From "Haber, David J." <David.Haber at vtmednet.org>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 15:49:55 -0400
Subject: Spark Plugs
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 16:10:34 -0400
Subject: Re: Driving light installation
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 16:13:05 EDT
Subject: Spark plug gap
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
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From BillHUCK at aol.com
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 16:31:50 EDT
Subject: Throw-out bearing
Here is my plan:
Use strong magnet through the aluminum housing to move clip toward starter
side.
Pick out clip with small magnet through starter pinion cover hole.
Thereafter drive the car with confidence, seeing no reason why the bearing
should come loose.
Thanks for any experience or opinions. Bill Huck
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From john mann <jemann58 at yahoo.com>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 14:00:19 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: part eeded
---------------------------------
The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo.
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from the battery connection on the back of the starter solenoid.
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 17:07:33 EDT
Subject: Re: Driving light installation
Gary Shunk '67 BJ8 #38427 N.J.
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Mon, 05 May 2003 17:25:59 -0400
Subject: Re: Odd BN6 Carburetor problem
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Chad Jester" <triumph74tr6@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 05, 2003 2:00 PM
Subject: Re: Odd BN6 Carburetor problem
| Chad,
|
| This is what is called an auxilliary choke, thermochoke, or automatic
choke
| here in the US. It was used in mid 1959 for about 3 months. I was not
| aware they were installed on any BN6s. I have it on my BN7. If you will
| look you will note you have no choke cable anywhere!
|
| As far as the leak goes see the shop manuals on adjustments and then see
if
| it continues to leak.
|
| If I can be of any further help let me know.
|
| Keith Pennell
|
|
| > List, I am working on a BN6 for a friend. The rear carb has some odd
| device on it that appears to richen or lean the fuel mixture under certain
| conditions. It has 3 rubber lines coming off it that go to the intake
| manifold. This device is leaking fuel, and I'm wondering if it is really
| necessary. Other vehicles I've worked on with SU carburetors do not have
| this item. I would appreciate hearing from anyone who has encountered
| problems with this device, and what you did to repair or eliminate the
| device. Thanks! Chad Jester
|
|
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 16:57:17 -0400
Subject: Re: Spark plug gap
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 05, 2003 4:13 PM
Subject: Spark plug gap
> I run a Mallory Unilite distributor--with an MSD "Blaster" coil--I've read
> that a higher-output coil permits an increased plug gap--short of trial
and
> error how can I determine what the proper gap should be?
>
> Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 17:38:44 -0400
Subject: OD R and R without removing gearbox.
I couldn't find anything in the archives.
To the guy who made the recommendation (or anyone else).....any advice or
special tricks? I'm going to try it tomorrow on my BN6.
Jim
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From Alex Hope <AHope at jaques.com.au>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 09:27:29 +1000
Subject: RE: BJ8 Progress and Misc Questions
Alex Hope
-----Original Message-----
From: James Sailer [mailto:heliskier@direcway.com]
Sent: Monday, 5 May 2003 11:58 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: BJ8 Progress and Misc Questions
Greetings all....
Well my BJ8 is coming along... Did my usual friday visit to the body shop to
see progress on the final body prep and paint.. (rolling chassis underneath
completely done).. All final body preparations are complete and the car is
being blocked .... we replaced a dogleg.. took out some plastic (about 10
lbs) etc in this final stage and refitted all panels. nice panel gaps...
the only inconsistent gaps are around the boot.. but I don't think anyone
would notice.... All misc parts for final assembly are complete, sitting in
baggies, boxes and on shelves awaiting installation.. My heritage interior
is in boxes (although I need to return the smooth faced rear interior panels
for heat embossed ones... seems Heritage believes that leather interior cars
had smooth rear panels .. however I can find no build information that
sustantiates this ..except they say there are a number of photos that cleary
show it... who knows..)...
The only thing I am still considering rebuilding (or haing rebuilt) is my
distributor.. this has been a topic lately so I am peaked .... Anybody know
a good place to send it off to to get looked at (states)..?? Am still
searching for an NOS horn button but may need to get an aftermarket one..
minie is totally crazed and will detract ..... My new dash will get
partially assembled this weekend and placed on the shelf with the rest of
the part.... It is superb....
I will be needing a new tonneau.. anyone have expereince with where a
quality one can be had? Robbins, everflex from UK?
I have seen several postings concerning fuels filters... I am planning to
install mine just before the fuel pump. There is will decrease potential
for fuel pump problems, decrease the number of junctions near the carbs...
(loosening junctions near a hot exhaust manifold .. brrrrr...) .. Hopefully
this will be more of a non-issue as I am fitting a new aluminum gas tank....
Well. I hope to see final paint on the car soon... Maybe the red byu the
end of the week.. followed by the black coves next week... On the non-healey
side.. I have been having a total blast with my new Cooper S! license
plate 2FUNN
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8 coming along
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From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 19:27:44 EDT
Subject: Re: Driving light installation
http://home.attbi.com/~justbrits/ahbj8.html
Happy Healeying,
Rick
In a message dated 5/5/03 9:02:52 AM, davzu29@earthlink.net writes:
<<I just purchsed a set of driving lights for my BJ-8 and am wondering about
the
best way to make the electrical connections. I've thought of replacing my
1-postition panel light switch with a 2-position switch in an effort to keep
the interior original looking. I plan on using an in-line fuse for safety.
Is it all right to pick up power for these new lights off the panel switch?
Would there be a better option? I assume ground can be placed almost
anywhere.>>
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From "Warren Dietz" <flyhihealey at hotmail.com>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Mon, 05 May 2003 20:19:43 -0400
Subject: Re: Battery replacement
Warren
67 BJ8
>From: "ROBERT HAY" <jerryhay@msn.com>
>>Date: Sun, 4 May 2003 22:26:40 -0400
>
>I am replacing the battery for my BT7; can someone save me the trouble of
>measuring by supplying the original size. A brand name/model number would
>be
>helpful.
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Jerry
>
>BT7 14299
>
_________________________________________________________________
STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE*
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From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 20:48:48 -0400
Subject: test - do not read
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From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Mon, 05 May 2003 18:14:17 -0700
Subject: Google and the List - Non-Healey but related somewhat
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From Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 18:10:13 -0700
Subject: brake bleeding
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 18:22:47 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Pedal Bracket Fastener Question
__________________________________
The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo.
http://search.yahoo.com
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 18:46:18 -0700
Subject: Re: OD R and R without removing gearbox.
John Snyder
----- Original Message -----
From: "AH102" <bluechipracing@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 05, 2003 2:38 PM
Subject: OD R and R without removing gearbox.
> I seem to remember a post where the lister claimed that the overdrive can
be
> removed and replaced without removing the transmission.
>
> I couldn't find anything in the archives.
>
> To the guy who made the recommendation (or anyone else).....any advice or
> special tricks? I'm going to try it tomorrow on my BN6.
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 22:10:55 EDT
Subject: Looking for a 100-M
Any leads appreciated. No financial interest on my part, just helping out a
fellow enthusiast.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
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From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 19:29:30 -0700
Subject: Wire Gauge for Ammeter
TIA,
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 22:37:35 EDT
Subject: Conclave Update
1. We've reached 200 registrations, including 98 for the Summit Point Speed
events.
2. Our Guest Speaker at the awards presentation is none other than (drum
roll....) the inimicable Burt Levy, who will also be doing the color
commentary at Summit, which promises to be interesting.
3. We have two Tech sessions planned--one with an allstar panel of experts,
including our very own Mike Salter of Precision Sportscar, Bruce Phillips of
Healey Surgeons and Jeff Burns of Motorhead, and a second which will be
delivered by Denis Welch.
4. The Potomac River Cruise has reached capacity--any pending registrations
for this event will be cheerfully refunded.
Hope to see many of you in DC--Michael Oritt
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From "Kufchak" <leemar at bendcable.com>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 20:13:30 -0700
Subject: Speedometer
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 20:22:09 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: brake bleeding
I had the same problem until I followed the procedure
outlined in the factory manual. When I followed that
procedure, the brakes bled perfectly. I have more
pedal pressure than I've had in years!
Apparently the 100-4 system is very susceptible to
retaining air. the way to bleed it is as follows:
1) Bleed Left Rear first.
Make sure you DON'T run out of fluid in the reservoir
at any time, otherwise you will have to restart the
whole process again.
I have also heard that cranking the rear brake
adjusters so that the rear brake shoes are tight on
the drum helps the bleeding process as well. I did
this.
2) Bleed Right Rear next
3) Bleed Right front
4) Bleed Left front last.
Anytime you bleed the brakes on the 100-4, you should
follow this procedure. It's not like my BJ8 where you
can just bleed the one part where you've been
working....
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz@earthlink.net>
wrote:
> I installed a new master cylinder on my 100-4 and
> can't seem to get the
> system to bleed . I lubricated the pump but there is
> too much air in
> the lines or something. Can anyone suggest an
> approach that might help
> thanx ,Jonathan
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Mon, 05 May 2003 21:45:44 -0600
Subject: Re: Batttery replacement
Bill lawrence
Blue One Hundred wrote:
> Jerry -
>
> The original size battery for a four seater is all but
> non existent anymore. If you are not worried about
> concours standards, I'd get any standard sized battery
> from your local auto parts supplier - any standard
> battery will fit back there because they are all
> smaller batteries these days.
>
> If you are looking for a battery suggestion, I'd get
> an Optima or an Exide Orbital... very durable
> batteries and they don't gass off or leak acid.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
> --- ROBERT HAY <jerryhay@msn.com> wrote:
> > I am replacing the battery for my BT7; can someone
> > save me the trouble of
> > measuring by supplying the original size. A brand
> > name/model number would be
> > helpful.
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> >
> > Jerry
> >
> > BT7 14299
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 21:05:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Speedometer
Drive the car with the cable disconnected from the
back of the spedometer while you are looking at it.
If the cable spins, then the problem is with your
speedo.
If the cable doesn't spin (try pinching it between
your fingers and see if it stops), then either your
cable is broken or your right angle drive is fried.
both of these parts are easily replaced. If it's the
speedo or the right angle drive, send it to a speedo
shop or a healey specialist for repair.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Kufchak <leemar@bendcable.com> wrote:
> My speedometer and odometer on my 66BJ8 just quit.
> I looked for the obvious -
> cable loose from the speedo, but still connected.
> Any ideas on how I can
> troubleshoot? Thanks, Lee
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From "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson at earthlink.net>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 21:08:01 -0700
Subject: RE: Throw-out bearing
Best,
Greg
67 BJ8
> -----Original Message-----
>
> After installing a rebuilt gearbox/overdrive in my BN1, and while
> attaching
> the clutch operating lever, I heard the throw-out bearing
> retaining clip hit
> the bell housing. One retaining clip is still on.
>
> Here is my plan:
> Use strong magnet through the aluminum housing to move clip
> toward starter
> side.
> Pick out clip with small magnet through starter pinion cover hole.
> Thereafter drive the car with confidence, seeing no reason why
> the bearing
> should come loose.
> Thanks for any experience or opinions. Bill Huck
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 21:09:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: BJ8 Progress and Misc Questions
I sent mine from California to Barry in Brisbane,
Australia. Chris was great help and you can see in
his recent posts, why I relied on his advice.
With internet speed and global shipping - no reason to
think locally any more:)
Dean
>
> The only thing I am still considering rebuilding (or
> haing rebuilt) is my
> distributor.. this has been a topic lately so I am
> peaked .... Anybody know
> a good place to send it off to to get looked at
> (states)..??
__________________________________
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From Jerry Rude <gdrude at pacbell.net>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Mon, 05 May 2003 21:21:54 -0700
Subject: Exhaust system question
I remember a thread, some time ago, about fitting a BJ7 exhaust onto a
BJ8. I looked through the archives, but no luck. Can anyone tell me if
I can fit the BJ7 (ie. Monza) type exhaust?? They look way cool, and
should sound better than the stock BJ8.
Thanks in advance,
Jerry Rude
BJ8
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From Jerry Rude <gdrude at pacbell.net>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Mon, 05 May 2003 21:33:18 -0700
Subject: Silicon clutch/brake fluid
I had a poor experience using silicone brake fluid in a clutch
application some time ago. The clutch master and slave rubber failed
prematurely, having worn out. I was thinking at the time (about 15
years ago) that it was due to the poor lubricating quality of the
silicone.
I know a number of folks on this list have had good experience using
silicone fluid, and I'm wondering if some might be able to tell me which
brand they use?
Thanks,
Jerry Rude
BJ8
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 22:06:43 -0700
Subject: Re: Google and the List - Non-Healey but related somewhat
Type in your phone number with dashes (xxx-xxx-xxxx) and unless you have an
unlisted phone number, you may find your address, links to a map to your
house, any web sites you have, and maybe some documents you generated.
Privacy? What privacy??
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
----- Original Message -----
From: "john spaur" <jmsdarch@infoasis.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 05, 2003 6:14 PM
Subject: Google and the List - Non-Healey but related somewhat
> I read an article about privacy and what can be found on Google when you
do
> a (your) name search. I plugged my name into the search window and it
> pulled up some postings that I made to the Healey list. When I clicked on
> them it took me to the search archives. Interesting, now you have another
> way of searching the archives; by whatever name you want to use from our
> healey list.
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 22:39:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Exhaust system question
Aside from the downpipes being smaller on a BJ7, there
should be no problems with bolting it right up because
I believe all of the mountings are in the same
positions on both cars. So just be sure the system
you buy comes with the downpipes, otherwise they
probably won't mate together.
If I recall, Monza used to make a system specifically
for the BJ8 with larger downpipes....
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I remember a thread, some time ago, about fitting a
> BJ7 exhaust onto a
> BJ8. I looked through the archives, but no luck.
> Can anyone tell me if
> I can fit the BJ7 (ie. Monza) type exhaust?? They
> look way cool, and
> should sound better than the stock BJ8.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Jerry Rude
> BJ8
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From "Eckert Josef,T5" <Josef.Eckert at t-mobile.de>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 08:07:13 +0200
Subject: Re: Special Healeys for sale
As far as I know there are two "Special" Healeys for sale at the moment. Both
sellers may give you prove that these are genuine cars.
One is for sale in Germany. It is offered as a genuine 100/S, chassis number
3801. Totally restored in 1992. One additional information from my side: They
have it for sale for about 2 years now. See www.carpoint.de, then Aktuelle
Angebote.
The other is for sale in Italy. It is offered as the genuine works project car
X230. This is said to be a prototype made from factory with double headlights
and de dijon rear axle that did not go into production. See www.autospeak.it,
then Car List.
Both dealers will send you more information by e-mail.
Please do your own inquiries to prove the statements given in the advertising
(usual disclaimer). I am not at all involved in the business or having any
financial interest by selling one of these cars.
Josef Eckert
Koenigswinter, GERMANY
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 05:36:15 -0400
Subject: RE: Wire Gauge for Ammeter
According to "Automobile Construction and Operation" Third Edition the
gauge of wire required for 30 amps ( the rated output of a BJ8
generator) is 20 gauge for 0.75 meters, 16 gauge for 1.5 meters and 14
gauge for 3 meters.
I don't think I would go below 16 gauge and be sure to make the very
best of connections that are well insulated.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: 5-May-03 10:30 PM
To: healeylist
Subject: Wire Gauge for Ammeter
Any electrical types know what an acceptable wire gauge for leads
to/from
an ammeter would be (yep, the current from the generator to the battery
will pass through it).
TIA,
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com
(work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 06:01:01 -0400
Subject: RE: Silicon clutch/brake fluid
One of the books that I use as a reference is the "automotive Handbook"
published by Bosch. This book has hundreds of pages of formulae and
other information that for the most part is so complicated that I
absolutely do not understand it, but it does have this to say about
Silicon Brake Fluids.
"Because silicone fluids - like mineral oils - do not absorb moisture,
they were sometimes used as brake fluids in the past. The disadvantages
associated with these products include palpably higher compressibility
and less satisfactory lubrication properties. These factors also reduce
their suitability for use as hydraulic fluid in many systems.
A critical factor for brake fluids based on silicone or mineral oils is
the absorption of free water in a fluid state, as the water forms vapor
bubbles when it heats up to more than 100 degrees C and freezes when it
cools to less than 0 degrees C."
The book then goes on to discuss things like
"If the free OH (Hydroxyl) groups are partially esterified with boric
acid this results in components which can be used to produce
substantially better DOT4 fluids (chemically reactive with water and
thus capable of neutralizing the effects of moisture. As the DOT 4 brake
fluid's boiling point drops much more slowly than that of a DOT 3 fluid,
its service life is longer."
They do seem to know what they are talking about so I, for one, intend
to continue to abide by their recommendations and not use or recommend
silicone fluid.
Anybody know what "esterified" means?
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jerry Rude
Sent: 6-May-03 12:33 AM
To: healeylist
Subject: Silicon clutch/brake fluid
Hi all,
I had a poor experience using silicone brake fluid in a clutch
application some time ago. The clutch master and slave rubber failed
prematurely, having worn out. I was thinking at the time (about 15
years ago) that it was due to the poor lubricating quality of the
silicone.
I know a number of folks on this list have had good experience using
silicone fluid, and I'm wondering if some might be able to tell me which
brand they use?
Thanks,
Jerry Rude
BJ8
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From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 06:29:03 -0400
Subject: RE: BN1 Gearbox Supplier
Have you tried Sports and Classics in Darien, CT?
(203-655-8731). When I was working on my BJ7 gearbox
a few years back, he had a pretty decent stock of NOS
gears.
HTH,
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Greg Lemon
Sent: Monday, May 05, 2003 7:56 AM
To: Blue One Hundred; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: BN1 Gearbox Supplier
Alan, don't know if Magnus re-sent it, but here is the post on Hardy
Engineering, I saved it for future refefence:
Alan,
I would contact Hardy Engineering in the UK. They are the only ones
that I know of who carries a lot of spare parts for these gearboxes +
lots of knowledge. Thinking about the rarity of your box I would speak
to them before keeping driving.
Hardy Engineering
enquiry@hardyengineering.co.uk
01372 378927
01372 376794
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 07:20:49 -0400
Subject: RE: BN1 Gearbox Supplier
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Peter Schauss
Sent: 6-May-03 6:29 AM
To: Greg Lemon; Blue One Hundred; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: BN1 Gearbox Supplier
Alan,
Have you tried Sports and Classics in Darien, CT?
(203-655-8731). When I was working on my BJ7 gearbox
a few years back, he had a pretty decent stock of NOS
gears.
HTH,
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Greg Lemon
Sent: Monday, May 05, 2003 7:56 AM
To: Blue One Hundred; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: BN1 Gearbox Supplier
Alan, don't know if Magnus re-sent it, but here is the post on Hardy
Engineering, I saved it for future refefence:
Alan,
I would contact Hardy Engineering in the UK. They are the only ones
that I know of who carries a lot of spare parts for these gearboxes +
lots of knowledge. Thinking about the rarity of your box I would speak
to them before keeping driving.
Hardy Engineering
enquiry@hardyengineering.co.uk
01372 378927
01372 376794
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
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From Larry Dickstein <lonejacklarry at kcweb.net>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Tue, 06 May 2003 06:46:07 -0500
Subject: Re: Google and the List - Non-Healey but related somewhat
> I read an article about privacy and what can be found on Google when you do
> a (your) name search. I plugged my name into the search window and it
> pulled up some postings that I made to the Healey list. When I clicked on
> them it took me to the search archives.
Even more interesting is to "plug" your phone number, as in, xxx-xxx-xxxx and
see
what happens. You can even click on "map" and it will show where you live.
Interesting stuff.
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
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From "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson at earthlink.net>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 05:05:49 -0700
Subject: RE: Silicon clutch/brake fluid
> -----Original Message-----
>
> Anybody know what "esterified" means?
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
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From Bill Rister <brister at hal-pc.org>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Tue, 06 May 2003 07:09:57 -0700
Subject: Re: brake bleeding
- Bill
60 BT7 61 AN5
Jonathan and Carole Quandt wrote:
>I installed a new master cylinder on my 100-4 and can't seem to get the
>system to bleed . I lubricated the pump but there is too much air in
>the lines or something. Can anyone suggest an approach that might help
>thanx ,Jonathan
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From "tfelts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 08:53:28 -0400
Subject: Re: Driving light installation
-----Original Message-----
From: Rebeltown@aol.com <Rebeltown@aol.com>
To: davzu29@earthlink.net <davzu29@earthlink.net>; healeys@autox.team.net
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, May 05, 2003 7:14 PM
Subject: Re: Driving light installation
>Since I use my driving lights whenever I need the high beams, I control
them
>through the foot operated high beam switch. They now come on when the
highs
>do and I only have to operate one switch when oncoming traffic approaches,
>and no non original looking switches and can keep both hands on the wheel.
>Use a relay to supply power to the lights and use a fuse. I get my power
>from the battery connection on the back of the starter solenoid.
>
>Gary Shunk '67 BJ8 #38427 N.J.
>
.
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From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 06:06:51 -0700
Subject: Re: Silicon clutch/brake fluid
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> I think I heard that term once on the TV show "The Jefferson's"
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> >
> > Anybody know what "esterified" means?
> >
> > Michael Salter
> > www.precisionsportscar.com
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From Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Tue, 06 May 2003 06:36:26 -0700
Subject: May 10th Marin County Healey run
Tracy
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From "David Zuiderveld" <davzu29 at earthlink.net>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 09:41:53 -0400
Subject: Driving light installation
David Z.
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From "Eckert Josef,T5" <Josef.Eckert at t-mobile.de>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 15:59:23 +0200
Subject: test, please delete
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From Jim Wood <jwood_kc at yahoo.com>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 07:00:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Oil Pressure
1. Should I be concerned with these pressure readings?
2. Would a higher weight oil be recommended, say
20w50?
3. Should I try to connect another oil pressure guage
to confirm the accuracy of the rebuilt guage I
installed in the dash?
Other recommendations?
jim Wood
'67 BJ8
__________________________________
The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo.
http://search.yahoo.com
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Wed, 7 May 2003 00:45:18 +1000
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure
Did you use an 'oil additive'?
I experienced almost exactly what you are describing about 7 or 8 years ago,
but not after an engine rebuild - after a normal oil and filter change. I
had added a bottle of some 'super duper you beaut oil additive'. Pressure
was fine before I changed the oil, and fine after I changed it and started
the engine up - just as you described. Then after I drove it about 4 or 5
miles the oil pressure dropped to about 10 lbs at idle - and didn't go over
30 .
I pulled the (new) oil filter which had now been on the car less than 1
hour - the stock Healey 'felt one' - and it was full of this bloodyadditive.
The additive - which had 'solid' coppery looking bits in it had blocked the
oil filter!
I drained the oil, bought more oil and a new filter, threw the additive in
the garbage bin, and the problem went away back to 30 - 40 at idle, 60 at
driving.
Beware snakeoil additives - especially those with solids -
teflon/lead/copper/ blah blah metal coating whatever.
In terms of engine oil, I have found the best results from penrite HPR50
(peak of Sydney summer) and HPR40 (rest of the time).
If you used an additive Jim - I suspect the additive has blocked the
filter - change the oil and the filter - and see if the problem goes away.
Best regards
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Wood" <jwood_kc@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2003 12:00 AM
Subject: Oil Pressure
> I have a question about the oil pressure in a newly
> rebuilt engine in my BJ8. When I first start, the
> engine holds about 40lbs at idle which increases to
> over 60 with higher RPMs. After driving a mile or so,
> the pressure at idle drops between 10 and 20, and the
> higher rpm range is between 30 and 40lbs.
>
> 1. Should I be concerned with these pressure readings?
> 2. Would a higher weight oil be recommended, say
> 20w50?
> 3. Should I try to connect another oil pressure guage
> to confirm the accuracy of the rebuilt guage I
> installed in the dash?
> Other recommendations?
>
> jim Wood
> '67 BJ8
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From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Tue, 06 May 2003 09:44:15 -0500
Subject: where does it go?
I'm hoping some of you can help me troubleshoot a problem I've been having
with my carbs. One of my two SUs (specifically the HD6 nearest the
firewall) is failing to maintain an adequate level of damper oil. It takes
very little time (about 20 minutes) for the damper to run dry, fouling up
the piston. The problem started last fall during my last long drive of the
year. Prior to that the car ran just fine. The problem continued shortly
after bring the car out of hibernation this past weekend. All the fluids
were inspected and topped off if neeed prior to a short warm up drive on
Saturday.
I took the carbs apart to the point of removing the dash pots, pistons to
find everything coated in a black, burnt coating. After cleaning everything
there was nothing noticably wrong with the set ups other than a missing
washer inside one piston (the washer under the spring). There appeared to
be no cracks in the piston or the piston rod and the needle seemed to be
seated well with no play at all. Also, I did not notice any ridges or other
deformities on the needles.
My questions to the group are these: Where does the damper oil go? I
suspect its bleeding out somewhere and burning up in the piston chamber - is
that correct. What have been the causes and thus the remedies from others
having experienced similar problems?
As always, your insights and suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Cheers,
Carlos Cruz
'60 BN7
_________________________________________________________________
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From "Peter C." <nosimport at mailbag.com>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Tue, 06 May 2003 10:16:09 -0500
Subject: Re:Rear Shock O ring seal
#114 Buna 3/32"x 5/8" x 13/16"
Peter C.
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From Jon McLeroy <jfm at ballistic.com>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Tue, 06 May 2003 10:26:48 -0500
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure
You didn't mention what oil you were using, 30W or a multi grade. But if
you are thinking of using a 20w/50 why not try Penrite's HPR 20W/60. I
believe you will see a good stable increase in your oil pressure and its
formulation is the best for these engines.
If you would like more information about Penrite products please let me
have your mailing address and I will send you a brochure packet including a
Penrite Lubrication Recommendation Sheet for your Healey.
Thanks and God Bless
Jon
Classic Auto Lubes
12803 CR 1222
Tyler, Tx, 75709
Ph: 903-561-4858
Fax: 903-561-7177
Email: jfm@ballistic.com
www.classicautolubes.com
At 07:00 AM 5/6/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>I have a question about the oil pressure in a newly
>rebuilt engine in my BJ8. When I first start, the
>engine holds about 40lbs at idle which increases to
>over 60 with higher RPMs. After driving a mile or so,
>the pressure at idle drops between 10 and 20, and the
>higher rpm range is between 30 and 40lbs.
>
>1. Should I be concerned with these pressure readings?
>2. Would a higher weight oil be recommended, say
>20w50?
>3. Should I try to connect another oil pressure guage
>to confirm the accuracy of the rebuilt guage I
>installed in the dash?
>Other recommendations?
>
>jim Wood
>'67 BJ8
>
>
>__________________________________
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 11:31:43 EDT
Subject: Re: Silicon clutch/brake fluid
If we all followed the instructions that come with all brake fluids then we
would not have any problems, the fluid is to be replaced every 18 months.
Also when was the last time you spilled brake fluid on the paint of your car
???????
As long as you wash it off imediatly you will not damage the paint.
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
IF there are attached files and you are unable to open please use.
<A HREF="http://www.stuffit.com/expander/";>StuffIt Expander: Unzip zip,
access StuffIt filb&</A>
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From "tfelts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 12:39:12 -0400
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure
tom
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Wood <jwood_kc@yahoo.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, May 06, 2003 10:45 AM
Subject: Oil Pressure
>I have a question about the oil pressure in a newly
>rebuilt engine in my BJ8. When I first start, the
>engine holds about 40lbs at idle which increases to
>over 60 with higher RPMs. After driving a mile or so,
>the pressure at idle drops between 10 and 20, and the
>higher rpm range is between 30 and 40lbs.
>
>1. Should I be concerned with these pressure readings?
>2. Would a higher weight oil be recommended, say
>20w50?
>3. Should I try to connect another oil pressure guage
>to confirm the accuracy of the rebuilt guage I
>installed in the dash?
>Other recommendations?
>
>jim Wood
>'67 BJ8
>
>
>__________________________________
>The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo.
>http://search.yahoo.com
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From "James Shope" <healeymanjim at JoiMail.com>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 11:13:04 -0700
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure
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From "Ron Davies, DDS" <rdavies1 at cox.net>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 12:28:17 -0700
Subject: bj8 oil pan
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From Jim Wood <jwood_kc at yahoo.com>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 12:56:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Oil Pressure follow-up
The engine rebuild included a new oil pump, new
rockers and rocker shaft. The crank was turned and
bearings replaced. new pistons with gapless rings,
etc. etc. about $4,800 by the time it was done.
I don't know what grade or brand oil is currently in
it, and plan to replace it soon.
Since this is my first healey, I am relying heavily on
the experience of others. The pressure seemed on the
low side, and most responses seem to agree, however, I
have not yet seen a response that suggests what a
"good" pressure reading would be, particularly after
the engine is good and warm.
Thanks,
Jim Wood
__________________________________
The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo.
http://search.yahoo.com
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 16:31:27 EDT
Subject: Re: bj8 oil pan
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
IF there are attached files and you are unable to open please use.
<A HREF="http://www.stuffit.com/expander/";>StuffIt Expander: Unzip zip,
access StuffIt filb&</A>
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 18:22:04 -0400
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure follow-up
I had my BJ8 engine completely rebuilt in 1999 (but no new oil pump), and was
a bit disappointed to find that I had about the same oil pressure as you are
getting. After 27,685 miles I still have the same readings on the gauge: 60
psi at startup, cold and dropping to just a hair under 40 on the gauge when
hot and cruising. At an idle RPM of 600 hot, my gauge drops almost to zero,
while at 1000 RPM I get just under 20 psi. I have always used Castrol
20W-50.
After being mislead into thinking my car has been running hot all these years
by a mis-calibrated temp gauge, I'm inclined to think my oil pressure gauge is
also out of adjustment; however, my recollection is that I had slightly higher
pressures indicated on the gauge before the engine was rebuilt.
Good luck!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Wood
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2003 3:56 PM
Subject: Oil Pressure follow-up
Thanks for the tremendous response. Many have asked
the same questions about the engine rebuild. It was
rebuilt a year ago. I have since finished most of the
restoration, and am to the point where I can finally
do more than run the engine in the garage or roll back
and forth in the driveway.
The engine rebuild included a new oil pump, new
rockers and rocker shaft. The crank was turned and
bearings replaced. new pistons with gapless rings,
etc. etc. about $4,800 by the time it was done.
I don't know what grade or brand oil is currently in
it, and plan to replace it soon.
Since this is my first healey, I am relying heavily on
the experience of others. The pressure seemed on the
low side, and most responses seem to agree, however, I
have not yet seen a response that suggests what a
"good" pressure reading would be, particularly after
the engine is good and warm.
Thanks,
Jim Wood
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 18:28:40 -0400
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure follow-up
Steve and all --
My memory is no better than anyone else's here, and worse than most, so please
bear with me...
...but the best I recall, every Healey or MG that I owned or drove in the '60s
(and I sold 'em during the summer of '66) had oil pressure that always seemed
a little low.
I think that 40 psi when hot is pretty much normal, and 45 psi is excellent.
Happy to be contradicted.
--
John Miller
Between Healeys
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From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 15:31:56 -0700
Subject: BODY TAG?
3001
9494
I believe this tag was on the the car whe I bought it, then I installedd the
engine and trans from another car.
Can anyone tell me what it stands for?
Thanks in Advance,
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 19:35:49 -0400
Subject: Re: Brake fluid
When I changed to silicone fluid in 1989, I flushed a few quarts of rubbing
alcohol through the lines and components after draining the DOT3 fluid, and
before installing the silicone. I have never had any problem with leaks.
In answer to the question: "How frequently do you spill brake fluid on your
paint job?", my answer is: every time I'm given the opportunity!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
---- Original Message -----
From: James Shope
To: healeys
Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2003 2:13 PM
i used silicone brake fluid for many years in my bj8 as i was in the
military
and it was readily available and "very" cheap. most military vehicles used
it. was always replacing brake and clutch rubber parts until i switched to
silicone. i didn't race so never was concerned about compressibility, but
it
sure stopped all those leaks from the master cylinders, servos, etc. when
i
moved to las vegas and was no longer worried about water settling in the
lowest part of the system, i put castrol back in after rebuilding the
servo.
within a month i had to replace clutch master and slave, a couple of wheel
cylinder kits and the brake master cylinder kit. don't know if the change
was
the cause, but seems okay now. i have also had other owners say that it
doesn't matter if you use american brake fluid in english cars, since they
rubber is all buna and not live rubber anymore. i am not going to take the
chance. does anyone have any intel on this? healeymanjim bj8
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 18:10:45 -0500
Subject: Re: BODY TAG?
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 18:11:02 -0500
Subject: Re: Silicon clutch/brake fluid
I swear, though I can't find them now, that I had read (don't get worked up
just repeating what I had heard) that silicone brake fluid was a better
lubricant than standard. Now I am a little confused, but will just continue
to monitor the car and see what happens.
No great amount of experience, just one story.
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 18:14:24 -0500
Subject: Re: BODY TAG?
Other may be able to ad more detail.
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
> I'm going to be applying to Heritgae trust to try and get the original VIN
> for my car. I know the Engine Trans are donors from another car and they
can
> trace the engine # and I can use that, but on my firewall is a tag with
>
> 3001
> 9494
>
> I believe this tag was on the the car whe I bought it, then I installedd
the
> engine and trans from another car.
> Can anyone tell me what it stands for?
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 20:21:03 -0400
Subject: Re: BODY TAG?
BMIHT can tell you the original VIN that belonged to that body plate, and it
is the numbers off the body plate that you should give to BMIHT.
If you give them the engine number, they will give you back a certificate for
the car that originally had that engine installed.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: I Erbs
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2003 6:31 PM
Subject: BODY TAG?
I'm going to be applying to Heritgae trust to try and get the original VIN
for my car. I know the Engine Trans are donors from another car and they
can
trace the engine # and I can use that, but on my firewall is a tag with
3001
9494
I believe this tag was on the the car whe I bought it, then I installedd
the
engine and trans from another car.
Can anyone tell me what it stands for?
Thanks in Advance,
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From Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 16:40:44 -0700
Subject: oil pressure
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From Douglas W Flagg <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 19:45:01 -0400
Subject: Re: BODY TAG?
Doug
'56 BN2
> > I'm going to be applying to Heritgae trust to try and get the
> original VIN
> > for my car. I know the Engine Trans are donors from another car
> and they
> can
> > trace the engine # and I can use that, but on my firewall is a tag
> with
> >
> > 3001
> > 9494
> >
> > I believe this tag was on the the car whe I bought it, then I
> installedd
> the
> > engine and trans from another car.
> > Can anyone tell me what it stands for?
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________
The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today!
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From "tfelts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 19:53:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Silicon clutch/brake fluid
Also, what does "never had good luck" mean so I can watch out for it?
Regards
tom
-----Original Message-----
From: HLYDOC@aol.com <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: gdrude@pacbell.net <gdrude@pacbell.net>; healeys@autox.team.net
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, May 06, 2003 12:34 PM
Subject: Re: Silicon clutch/brake fluid
> We have been rebuilding brakes for many years and have NEVER had good
>luck the few times that we have used silicone fluid at the request of the
>owners.
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Wed, 7 May 2003 10:18:25 +1000
Subject: Re: Interior rear quarter panels
My BJ8 still has most of its original factory fitted hide (leather)
interior. The only interior replacements have been the centre arm rest,
which was recovered about 4 years ago; and the vinyl 'armrests' on the tops
of the doors - which were badly split. The front and rear seats etc all
still original.
The leather hide was only used on the exposed top surface of the front
seats, and center arm rests, and rear seats and rear fold down back rest. ie
the non obvious parts - like 'back' of the front seats - are actually ambla
vinyl - only the 'front, top' of the seats (where you sit, where your back
rests) is leather. Door trims, top of dash etc are all vinyl as per std. The
rear panels are vinyl embossed with the square pattern.
If you have any specific questions - just ask & I'll have a look.
Hope this helps. The original body production windscreen card for my BJ8 -
with "Interior - black (hide)" is here:
http://www.myaustinhealey.com/histintro.html
Best regards
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2003 5:11 AM
Subject: Re: Interior rear quarter panels
> Hi, Jim -
>
> Leather interiors were not installed in cars (at least, in BJ8s) destined
for
> the North American market. Some cars that were "Personal Export
Delivery" ---
> i.e., where delivery was taken by the original owner in the U.K. for
eventual
> export to the States, did come with leather interior installed as an
option.
> I presume that the original owners of these cars specified leather (hide
> upholstery, as it is called on the BMIHT certificates). I do not know
whether
> such a "leather interior" included the interior panels, or were just the
seat
> coverings, but I think it was just the seat coverings. Consequently, the
> interior panels should have been the normal vinyl (Ambla), with the rear
> panels embossed with the square pattern.
>
> If you want to pursue this with the current owners of the "Personal Export
> Delivery" cars with hide upholstery, please let me know. Perhaps some of
> these cars still have the original interior.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC USA
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: James Sailer
> To: Healey List
> Sent: Friday, May 02, 2003 11:02 AM
> Subject: Interior rear quarter panels
>
>
> Hi All,
>
> A quick question. Did 3000s equipped with leather interiors originally
> come
> with interior rear quarter panels that did not have the heat embossed
> squares? It seems there are several books with photos that show plain
rear
> panels in leather equipped cars (and it makes sense since squares would
> contrast with the rib design on the leather back seat). I'd love some
> feedback as I am equipping my BJ8 with a leather interior.
>
> Jim Sailer
> 66 BJ8
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From "Turney, John" <John.Turney at shawgrp.com>
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 06:01:01 -0400
Subject: RE: Silicon clutch/brake fluid
"Anybody know what "esterified" means?"
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------------------------------
Esters are made from the reaction of alcohols with an acid, which removes
the OH (hydroxyl) group from the acid to form the ester. Usually, organic
acids are used, but inorganic acids, such as boric acid can also be used.
Aren't you glad you asked?
I use silicone fluid in my clutch and brakes to prevent the corrosion
associated with DOT3 and DOT4 fluids, and their paint removal properties.
I've used it on several LBCs, but I've only noticed some loss of braking on
the Healey, which is probably due to water in the system.
John, BN4
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 21:41:24 -0400
Subject: Re: Google and the List - Non-Healey but related somewhat
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Marge and/or Len
To: Healeys Mailing List
Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2003 1:06 AM
Subject: Re: Google and the List - Non-Healey but related somewhat
Whew! Did that just now. Amazing! Not only List postings, but found me
under AHCUSA members cars; 2002 All British Car Show, Dixon, CA,
Participants Choice Awards Winners; my name in an article written by a
couple relating to their trip from San Diego, CA, to Ocean Shores, WA,
(2000) that must have appeared in one of the Club magazines. If I had
looked at all 1760 listings under Len and the 21,500 under Leonard, I'm
sure
I would have found many more.
Type in your phone number with dashes (xxx-xxx-xxxx) and unless you have an
unlisted phone number, you may find your address, links to a map to your
house, any web sites you have, and maybe some documents you generated.
Privacy? What privacy??
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Tue, 06 May 2003 18:13:41 -0700
Subject: Re: oil pressure
So what to conclude? Some worn-out engines have low oil pressure;
some well-built new engines show low oil pressure readings too but
continue to run well for a long time? This thread should have begun
in late fall so it could warm us through the winter.
-Roland
On Tue, 6 May 2003 16:40:44 -0700, fourqz wrote:
::Low oil pressure the slayer of Healeys. if your pressure at idle is
::below 20 lbs nothing can save you. throw money, juanito
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From "Sid Bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 19:36:48 -0600
Subject: HINGES
Sid
BJ8
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From "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson at earthlink.net>
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 19:56:14 -0700
Subject: RE: bj8 oil pan
Best,
Greg
67 BJ8
> -----Original Message-----
>
> Hi:
> Did a search on "bj8 oil pan" and came up wanting.
> I need a new one for my 67 BJ8. It had been "repaired" with JB Weld.
> I'd love some recommendations as to sources.
> Thx
> Ron
> BJ837444
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From "Allen Adams" <aadamsjr at earthlink.net>
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 19:55:43 -0700
Subject: Re: brake bleeding
Al Adams
1963 BJ7
----- Original Message -----
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 05, 2003 8:22 PM
Subject: Re: brake bleeding
> Johnathan -
>
> I had the same problem until I followed the procedure
> outlined in the factory manual. When I followed that
> procedure, the brakes bled perfectly. I have more
> pedal pressure than I've had in years!
>
> Apparently the 100-4 system is very susceptible to
> retaining air. the way to bleed it is as follows:
>
> 1) Bleed Left Rear first.
>
> Make sure you DON'T run out of fluid in the reservoir
> at any time, otherwise you will have to restart the
> whole process again.
>
> I have also heard that cranking the rear brake
> adjusters so that the rear brake shoes are tight on
> the drum helps the bleeding process as well. I did
> this.
>
> 2) Bleed Right Rear next
>
>
> 3) Bleed Right front
>
> 4) Bleed Left front last.
>
> Anytime you bleed the brakes on the 100-4, you should
> follow this procedure. It's not like my BJ8 where you
> can just bleed the one part where you've been
> working....
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
> --- Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz@earthlink.net>
> wrote:
> > I installed a new master cylinder on my 100-4 and
> > can't seem to get the
> > system to bleed . I lubricated the pump but there is
> > too much air in
> > the lines or something. Can anyone suggest an
> > approach that might help
> > thanx ,Jonathan
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 22:08:17 -0500
Subject: New Rear Spring Help
Thanks, Mark
> Listers,
> I just received a new set of original spec rear springs from
> Moss for my Bt7.
> I carefully looked them over and checked for the packing material between
> leaves , which there is and the eye bolt bushings are already installed,
a
> plus.
> How ever I noticed that one spring had a rattle to it as I was
> inspecting it.. This was coming from the very end leaf that is wrapped
> around the eye bolt bushing and clamped down with the end leaf clamp. I
can
> move this end clamp a little by hand,as well as the wrap- around-leaf ,on
> the end. I can actually pinch this leaf at the clamp with my fingers and
> visually see about an eighth of an inch gap between leaves, open and
close.
> Also I can move this same leaf side-to-side about a sixteenth to an eighth
> inch. This is the only end of these new springs that does this.
> It seems to me that this area was not properly pressed as well as
> clamped, but I'm no expert in this area. Can I get some input on
whether
> or not I should expect this to correct itself from the weight of the car
or
> should I return to sender.
>
> Thanks for your advise,
> Mark,
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From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 23:13:45 -0400
Subject: RE: Oil Pressure follow-up
FWIW, they changed the type of oil pump used in these engines
at some time during the BN7/BT7 production run. The later pumps
are said to provide slightly lower oil pressure. My oil pump
was replaced when I had the engine rebuilt. Based on the part number on
the invoice from my rebuilder, I suspect that I may have the earlier style.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of John Miller
Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2003 6:29 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure follow-up
On Tuesday, May 06, 2003 18:22, BJ8Healeys wrote:
> I had my BJ8 engine completely rebuilt in 1999 (but no new oil pump), and
> was a bit disappointed to find that I had about the same oil pressure as
> you are getting. After 27,685 miles I still have the same readings on the
> gauge: 60 psi at startup, cold and dropping to just a hair under 40 on
the
> gauge when hot and cruising. At an idle RPM of 600 hot, my gauge drops
> almost to zero, while at 1000 RPM I get just under 20 psi. I have always
> used Castrol 20W-50.
Steve and all --
My memory is no better than anyone else's here, and worse than most, so
please
bear with me...
...but the best I recall, every Healey or MG that I owned or drove in the
'60s
(and I sold 'em during the summer of '66) had oil pressure that always
seemed
a little low.
I think that 40 psi when hot is pretty much normal, and 45 psi is excellent.
Happy to be contradicted.
--
John Miller
Between Healeys
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 20:29:41 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure follow-up
There are four (five?) common mechanical issues that
relate to oil pressure. These are the things you
should check.
1) Oil weight. If you are using a low weight oil like
20 or 30 WT, your oil pressure will be very low at
idle when it gets warm. Using a high weight multi
weight like 20W-50 will solve many of these problems.
2) Oil pump. If you did not replace your oil pump on
your rebuild, this could be a source of your low
pressure. The pump body is aluminum and the
gears/rotary vane are steel. As motors wear and send
particles into the oil, they wear out the aluminum
bodies of the oil pumps and they lose pressure.
Replaceing gears or the rotary vane alone(depending on
which pump you've installed) may not fix the problem -
best to install a new pump always.
3) Oil pressure relief valve and spring. In my
experience, this little valve and spring have been the
cause of more low pressure symptoms in Healeys than
any other factor. Did you replace the oil pressure
spring and valve in your motor? did you check to see
if the oil pressure galley on the block is worn or
scored? this may very well cause the problems you
describe. The easiest solution is to replace the
spring and valve plunger (these are VERY low cost) and
see if that fixes your problem.
4) Mechanical wear. Probably not an issue with your
motor since it has been recently rebuilt, but if the
main bearings are worn or incorrectly sized, or the
rocker shaft and bushes are worn, these may cause low
pressure as well. An easy check is to see if your
rocker shaft is gushing oil when the motor is in
operation. If so, your rocker shaft should be
rebuilt...
5) Guage (probable fifth) - it is possible the span on
your guage is incorrect and it is reading the wrong
oil pressure. It can't hurt to have the guage checked
by a specialist...
Hope that helps,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Jim Wood <jwood_kc@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Thanks for the tremendous response. Many have asked
> the same questions about the engine rebuild. It was
> rebuilt a year ago. I have since finished most of
> the
> restoration, and am to the point where I can finally
> do more than run the engine in the garage or roll
> back
> and forth in the driveway.
>
> The engine rebuild included a new oil pump, new
> rockers and rocker shaft. The crank was turned and
> bearings replaced. new pistons with gapless rings,
> etc. etc. about $4,800 by the time it was done.
>
> I don't know what grade or brand oil is currently in
> it, and plan to replace it soon.
>
> Since this is my first healey, I am relying heavily
> on
> the experience of others. The pressure seemed on
> the
> low side, and most responses seem to agree, however,
> I
> have not yet seen a response that suggests what a
> "good" pressure reading would be, particularly after
> the engine is good and warm.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Wood
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 23:59:08 -0700
Subject: Re: Silicon clutch/brake fluid
John and Michael,
You are right in that esters are made from acids and alcohols, but the acid
must be organic. Even though the reference mentions boric acid, I fail to
see what ester could form. The reaction of an alcohol with an inorganic
acid results in the formation of unsaturated hydrocarbons, at least for a
few concentrated inorganic acids. In addition, the hydroxyl group is
removed from the alcohol molecule, not the acid. The ionizeable H of the
acid splits off with the hydroxyl group to form water as a byproduct.
Picky, I know but Michael asked.
Keith Pennell
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 21:04:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: brake bleeding
The left rear IS the furthest on ALL LHD healeys
because the hydralic brake union is located on the
opposite side of the engine bay from the Reservoir and
the Master Cylinder. That means the length of
hydralic fluid travel to the left rear brake piston is
the furthest on the car eventhough as the crow flies
the Reservoir is closer than the right rear.
In actuality, because of how the piping is set on the
rear axle, the length of travel to Left rear is
furthest for all RHD healeys as well.
Look at this schematic for the BN1 and you will see
what I am talking about:
http://www.mossmotors.com/cgi-bin/db2www/mossmotors/MossUSA/Shop/ViewProducts.mac/report?T=76738&ModelID=10000&PlateID=2376
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Allen Adams <aadamsjr@earthlink.net> wrote:
> Alan,
> Are you bleeding a right hand drive car? I ask
> because I was under the
> impresssion that you always start from the wheel
> cylinder furthest from the
> master cylinder which on a left hand drive car would
> be the RIGHT rear wheel
> cylinder and then work your way to the closest to
> the master cylinder (i.e.
> right rear, left rear, right front, left front).
>
> Al Adams
> 1963 BJ7
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Blue One Hundred"
> <international_investor@yahoo.com>
> To: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
> <fourqz@earthlink.net>;
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, May 05, 2003 8:22 PM
> Subject: Re: brake bleeding
>
>
> > Johnathan -
> >
> > I had the same problem until I followed the
> procedure
> > outlined in the factory manual. When I followed
> that
> > procedure, the brakes bled perfectly. I have more
> > pedal pressure than I've had in years!
> >
> > Apparently the 100-4 system is very susceptible to
> > retaining air. the way to bleed it is as follows:
> >
> > 1) Bleed Left Rear first.
> >
> > Make sure you DON'T run out of fluid in the
> reservoir
> > at any time, otherwise you will have to restart
> the
> > whole process again.
> >
> > I have also heard that cranking the rear brake
> > adjusters so that the rear brake shoes are tight
> on
> > the drum helps the bleeding process as well. I
> did
> > this.
> >
> > 2) Bleed Right Rear next
> >
> >
> > 3) Bleed Right front
> >
> > 4) Bleed Left front last.
> >
> > Anytime you bleed the brakes on the 100-4, you
> should
> > follow this procedure. It's not like my BJ8 where
> you
> > can just bleed the one part where you've been
> > working....
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Alan
> >
> > '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
> >
> > --- Jonathan and Carole Quandt
> <fourqz@earthlink.net>
> > wrote:
> > > I installed a new master cylinder on my 100-4
> and
> > > can't seem to get the
> > > system to bleed . I lubricated the pump but
> there is
> > > too much air in
> > > the lines or something. Can anyone suggest an
> > > approach that might help
> > > thanx ,Jonathan
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From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 21:15:22 -0700
Subject: Re: BODY TAG?
Hello, Ira -
3001 is the "batch" number. A series of bodies had this same number.
9494 would be the specific body number of your car, and is unique to that
chassis.
BMIHT can tell you the original VIN that belonged to that body plate, and it
is the numbers off the body plate that you should give to BMIHT.
If you give them the engine number, they will give you back a certificate
for
the car that originally had that engine installed.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: I Erbs
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2003 6:31 PM
Subject: BODY TAG?
I'm going to be applying to Heritgae trust to try and get the original VIN
for my car. I know the Engine Trans are donors from another car and they
can
trace the engine # and I can use that, but on my firewall is a tag with
3001
9494
I believe this tag was on the the car whe I bought it, then I installedd
the
engine and trans from another car.
Can anyone tell me what it stands for?
Thanks in Advance,
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From HealeyBJ7 at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 7 May 2003 06:07:14 EDT
Subject: Directional flashers
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From HealeyBJ7 at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 7 May 2003 06:09:54 EDT
Subject: Not Healey - MG related
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 7 May 2003 06:12:06 -0500
Subject: Re: brake bleeding
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from 2 different companies. The part numbers P 149-P12 and PLU242P12 don't
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 7 May 2003 07:28:14 -0400
Subject: Petronix
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From "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble at intel.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 7 May 2003 04:45:06 -0700
Subject: paper or felt
Thanks,
Fred
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From "Mark Endicott" <mark at nashvilletn.org>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 7 May 2003 07:30:01 -0500
Subject: Re: Petronix
I went through this with my BN1 a couple years ago and the Pertronix unit
that fit my Dist. didn't mount in place of the points. It mounted on the
opposite side. I got it from LBCar Co (Jeff Zorn) I remember sending him
the details after we got the right one but I can't find my copy now. Jeff
may have kept it. Mine was for Neg, Ground. 4032 dist as I recall.
Mark
Nashville BN1
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terence H. & Suzanne F. McCool" <cm18@epix.net>
> List
> On my quest for a petronix ignition for my 100-M built 11/55 I can report
> the following. My dist # is 40422. I rec two different petronix
ignitions
> from 2 different companies. The part numbers P 149-P12 and PLU242P12
don't
> fit. I have sent jeff Zorn a tracing of the points so maybe he can match
it
> up. I was only looking at the Petronix to save me trouble, as I am
somewhat
> lazy and figured I would never have to replace the points or adjust them,
> however it seems as it is going to be easier to replace and adjust them to
> get the electronic unit. For those of you who wanted to know what I found
> out I'm sorry the news isn't better. Will try again later when I have
more
> time and if I do find the correct unit I will post it
> Regards
> Terry 100-M
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From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 7 May 2003 06:03:39 -0700
Subject: Re: Petronix
Did you talk to Skip at Shadetree Motors? I got my Pertronix from him
(for my BJ8).
Shadetree Motors, Ltd.
3895 Mammoth Cave Court
Pleasanton, CA 94588
USA
Tel: 925-846-1309
Fax: 925-846-1309
Contact: Skip Kelsey <kelsey@shadetreemotors.com>
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terence H. & Suzanne F. McCool" <cm18@epix.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2003 4:28 AM
Subject: Petronix
> List
> On my quest for a petronix ignition for my 100-M built 11/55 I can report
> the following. My dist # is 40422. I rec two different petronix ignitions
> from 2 different companies. The part numbers P 149-P12 and PLU242P12 don't
> fit. I have sent jeff Zorn a tracing of the points so maybe he can match it
> up. I was only looking at the Petronix to save me trouble, as I am somewhat
> lazy and figured I would never have to replace the points or adjust them,
> however it seems as it is going to be easier to replace and adjust them to
> get the electronic unit. For those of you who wanted to know what I found
> out I'm sorry the news isn't better. Will try again later when I have more
> time and if I do find the correct unit I will post it
> Regards
> Terry 100-M
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From Jim Wood <jwood_kc at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 7 May 2003 06:05:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Oil Pressure, another chapter
The water temp climbed to about 190 while I was out,
and I am wondering if the radiator was too full when I
started. any ideas?
Thanks again for your continued support.
Jim Wood
'67 BJ8
__________________________________
The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo.
http://search.yahoo.com
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From Douglas W Flagg <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 09:12:34 -0400
Subject: Re: Air Filters
Happy Healeying,
Doug
'56 BN2
________________________________________________________________
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Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today!
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From "James Sailer" <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 7 May 2003 07:32:33 -0600
Subject: Re: Exhaust system question
I installed a BJ7 Monza exhaust on my BJ8. It was pretty smooth but some
rework was necessary (but fun). My BJ8 downpipes were the correct diameter
to simply slip into the Monza (so they must be the same as a BJ7. The
downpipes however have a greater separation BETWEEN them horizontally that
the Monza pipes. Therefore, I had to have the front pipes of the Monza
"moved apart," I simply lined it up by eye with the downpipes (installed),
bolted up the back end of the Monza system to the car, took some
measurements, and went to the local pipeshop and had them cut (I believe it
was) the outboard pipe, and move it outward and inch or so (do your own line
up and measurement). Then, I had to shorten (again I believe it was the
outboard) the DOWNPIPE by about 3 inches and shorten the other monza pipe
about 3 inches. (This may sound complicated but it was a pleasant saturday
morning job). Lining it up and bolting the rear up, then eyeballing the
front will do it easily for you. One last item: I found that the rear exit
was set at or slightly behind my rear bumper. This is no big deal if you go
bumperless or with bumperettes. However, with the standard bumper I got a
lot of carbon building up on my bumper. So before I reinstall (as I finish
my restoration) I will be lengthening the exaust system just before the
final exhaust tips about 2 or 3 inches (final fitting will tell in about a
month). Was it worth it.. sure from my perspective. It was a fun job and
sounds great.
Jim Sailer 66 BJ8
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From "C. Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 7 May 2003 09:33:07 -0500
Subject: Did I stump the Experts?
It's been a few days since my last posting regarding the vanishing damper oil.
Only two responses with possible suggestions. It's got me wondering if I
stumped everyone?
One Lister suggested that the leak may be around the seat of the needle
assembly. I haven't taken the needle assembly off, but looking at the
cut-away diagrams in the Haynes AH 3000 and SU manuals, it doesn't look as
though the assembly recesses enough to access the piston rod. Is that true?
Or is this how the damper oil normally departs the piston rod?
Any other suggestions, leads, ideas or banter is greatly appreciated. I am so
looking forward to getting the car back on the road. My original posting
details are below if that helps.
Cheers,
Carlos Cruz
'60 BN7
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
I'm hoping some of you can help me troubleshoot a problem I've been having
with my carbs. One of my two SUs (specifically the HD6 nearest the firewall)
is failing to maintain an adequate level of damper oil. It takes very little
time (about 20 minutes) for the damper to run dry, fouling up the piston. The
problem started last fall during my last long drive of the year. Prior to that
the car ran just fine. The problem continued
shortly after bring the car out of hibernation this past weekend. All the
fluids were inspected and topped off if need prior to a short warm up drive on
Saturday.
I took the carbs apart to the point of removing the dash pots, pistons to find
everything coated in a black, burnt coating. After cleaning everything there
was nothing noticeably wrong with the set ups other than a missing washer
inside one piston (the washer under the spring). There appeared to be no
cracks in the piston or the piston rod and the needle seemed to be seated well
with no play at all. Also, I did not notice any ridges or
other deformities on the needles.
My questions to the group are these: Where does the damper oil go? I suspect
its bleeding out somewhere and burning up in the piston chamber - is that
correct. What have been the causes and thus the remedies from others having
experienced similar problems?
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From "James Shope" <healeymanjim at JoiMail.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 7 May 2003 08:13:20 -0700
Subject: oil pressure
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 7 May 2003 09:48:06 -0400
Subject: RE: Google and the List - Non-Healey but related somewhat
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
Amateur Radio AI2Q
http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
.-.-.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of BJ8Healeys
Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2003 9:41 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Google and the List - Non-Healey but related somewhat
Yeah, but MapQuest puts the red star at the wrong end of my street....
They'll never find me!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Marge and/or Len
To: Healeys Mailing List
Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2003 1:06 AM
Subject: Re: Google and the List - Non-Healey but related somewhat
Whew! Did that just now. Amazing! Not only List postings, but found me
under AHCUSA members cars; 2002 All British Car Show, Dixon, CA,
Participants Choice Awards Winners; my name in an article written by a
couple relating to their trip from San Diego, CA, to Ocean Shores, WA,
(2000) that must have appeared in one of the Club magazines. If I had
looked at all 1760 listings under Len and the 21,500 under Leonard, I'm
sure
I would have found many more.
Type in your phone number with dashes (xxx-xxx-xxxx) and unless you have
an
unlisted phone number, you may find your address, links to a map to your
house, any web sites you have, and maybe some documents you generated.
Privacy? What privacy??
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
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From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 7 May 2003 08:40:02 -0700
Subject: Seat Rails
I'm getting ready to install my new seat rails, and have all the required
hardware.
Question: Does the sheet metal strip, with 3 holes (same width and length as
the wood), go on top of the floor pan, (between the wood and the rail), or
under the floor?
Cheers,
Frank Golding
1960 BN7 # 10610
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 7 May 2003 12:23:20 -0400
Subject: Vacation
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From MBran89793 at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 7 May 2003 13:04:54 EDT
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure, another chapter
> The water temp climbed to about 190 while I was out,
> and I am wondering if the radiator was too full when I
> started. any ideas?
>
Hi Jim-
First off be sure and check that your water pump is not leaking. Sometimes
when Healeys are not used for an extended period of time the water pump seals
will leak.
If you filled the radiator to the top and use the 7 lb. filler cap, you can
be assured that there will be some coolant discharge after the engine has
been run for a period of time.
Most Healey owners have learned thru the years to only fill the radiator to
about 1" below the filler neck. This will allow room for the coolant to
expand without discharging too much.
A coolant recovery system is a very good solution for the overflow problem. I
have run a recovery system (Of my own design) on my BJ8, "Blackie," for years
with great results.
If you are interested in making up a recovery system for your car please
contact me off line and I'll give you a list of parts needed.
Marion Brantley
BJ8
BT7x2
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From MBran89793 at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 7 May 2003 13:16:40 EDT
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure, another chapter (Coolant Problem)
Sorry about that, I forgot to change to the 2nd topic.
> In a message dated 5/7/2003 9:08:01 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> jwood_kc@yahoo.com writes:
>
>
> > The water temp climbed to about 190 while I was out,
> > and I am wondering if the radiator was too full when I
> > started. any ideas?
> >
>
> Hi Jim-
>
> First off be sure and check that your water pump is not leaking. Sometimes
> when Healeys are not used for an extended period of time the water pump
> seals
> will leak.
> If you filled the radiator to the top and use the 7 lb. filler cap, you can
>
> be assured that there will be some coolant discharge after the engine has
> been run for a period of time.
> Most Healey owners have learned thru the years to only fill the radiator to
>
> about 1" below the filler neck. This will allow room for the coolant to
> expand without discharging too much.
> A coolant recovery system is a very good solution for the overflow problem.
> I
> have run a recovery system (Of my own design) on my BJ8, "Blackie," for
> years
> with great results.
> If you are interested in making up a recovery system for your car please
> contact me off line and I'll give you a list of parts needed.
>
> Marion Brantley
> BJ8
> BT7x2
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 07 May 2003 11:32:27 -0600
Subject: Re: Seat Rails
I believe that it goes between the wood & the floor pan & on top of the
floor tar paper. There are shouldered nuts which come up through the
floor from the bottom. From the top, rail, wood, metal strip, tar paper,
floor pan, shouldered nuts & washers.
Dave Russell
Golding, Frank wrote:
> List,
> Question: Does the sheet metal strip, with 3 holes (same width and length as
> the wood), go on top of the floor pan, (between the wood and the rail), or
> under the floor?
>
> Cheers,
>
> Frank Golding
> 1960 BN7 # 10610
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From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 7 May 2003 10:41:54 -0700
Subject: RE: Seat Rails
This brings up another question, after the tar paper is laid down does it
get painted body color, or is it just plain tar paper with no paint? Might
sound like a silly question, but what the heck, won't know the answer unless
I ask, or spend a bunch of time reviewing the books.
Cheers,
Frank
1960 BN7 # 10610
-----Original Message-----
From: Dave & Marlene [mailto:rusd@velocitus.net]
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2003 10:32 AM
To: Golding, Frank
Cc: Healey List
Subject: Re: Seat Rails
Frank,
I believe that it goes between the wood & the floor pan & on top of the
floor tar paper. There are shouldered nuts which come up through the
floor from the bottom. From the top, rail, wood, metal strip, tar paper,
floor pan, shouldered nuts & washers.
Dave Russell
Golding, Frank wrote:
> List,
> Question: Does the sheet metal strip, with 3 holes (same width and length
as
> the wood), go on top of the floor pan, (between the wood and the rail), or
> under the floor?
>
> Cheers,
>
> Frank Golding
> 1960 BN7 # 10610
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "IRA ERBS" <IErbs at vansd.org>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 07 May 2003 11:14:02 -0700
Subject: test ignore
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From bighealey3k at netscape.net (Larry Wendland)
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 07 May 2003 14:24:14 -0400
Subject: RE: Did I stump the Experts?
Larry
'67 BJ8
"C. Cruz" <ahrdstr@hotmail.com> wrote:
>Mornin' Listers,
>
>It's been a few days since my last posting regarding the vanishing damper oil.
>Only two responses with possible suggestions. It's got me wondering if I
>stumped everyone?
>
>One Lister suggested that the leak may be around the seat of the needle
>assembly. I haven't taken the needle assembly off, but looking at the
>cut-away diagrams in the Haynes AH 3000 and SU manuals, it doesn't look as
>though the assembly recesses enough to access the piston rod. Is that true?
>Or is this how the damper oil normally departs the piston rod?
>
>Any other suggestions, leads, ideas or banter is greatly appreciated. I am so
>looking forward to getting the car back on the road. My original posting
>details are below if that helps.
>
>Cheers,
>Carlos Cruz
>'60 BN7
>
>-----------------------------------------------------------------------
>I'm hoping some of you can help me troubleshoot a problem I've been having
>with my carbs. One of my two SUs (specifically the HD6 nearest the firewall)
>is failing to maintain an adequate level of damper oil. It takes very little
>time (about 20 minutes) for the damper to run dry, fouling up the piston. The
>problem started last fall during my last long drive of the year. Prior to that
>the car ran just fine. The problem continued
>shortly after bring the car out of hibernation this past weekend. All the
>fluids were inspected and topped off if need prior to a short warm up drive on
>Saturday.
>
>I took the carbs apart to the point of removing the dash pots, pistons to find
>everything coated in a black, burnt coating. After cleaning everything there
>was nothing noticeably wrong with the set ups other than a missing washer
>inside one piston (the washer under the spring). There appeared to be no
>cracks in the piston or the piston rod and the needle seemed to be seated well
>with no play at all. Also, I did not notice any ridges or
>other deformities on the needles.
>
>My questions to the group are these: Where does the damper oil go? I suspect
>its bleeding out somewhere and burning up in the piston chamber - is that
>correct. What have been the causes and thus the remedies from others having
>experienced similar problems?
__________________________________________________________________
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 7 May 2003 15:14:05 EDT
Subject: Re: HINGES
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
IF there are attached files and you are unable to open please use.
<A HREF="http://www.stuffit.com/expander/";>StuffIt Expander: Unzip zip,
access StuffIt filb&</A>
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From "Edward Kiessling" <e.kiessling at worldnet.att.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 8 May 2003 03:16:28 -0400
Subject: oil leak
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From "Turney, John" <John.Turney at shawgrp.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 7 May 2003 13:05:51 -0700
Subject: FW: Silicon clutch/brake fluid
You're right. I meant to say the acid removes the hydroxyl from the
alcohol. DUH!
It's been a very, very long time since I took organic chemistry, so I went
to my old textbook. The first reaction in my Morrison and Boyd (1965) for
ester formation is ethyl alcohol + cold sulfuric acid to form ethyl hydrogen
sulfate + water. I assume that boric acid might also work similarly.
In concentrated acids, dehydration occurs.
I think the compound in DOT4 fluid that started this was polyethylene glycol
monomethyl borate ester (CAS # 71243-41-9) which shows up on a MSDS for
Johnsens DOT4 Brake Fluid (URL is
http://www.technicalchemical.com/msds/5034.pdf). I don't find it listed
elsewhere on the web, so you're on your own from here.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: Keith Pennell [mailto:pennell@whro.net]
Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2003 11:59 PM
To: Turney, John; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Silicon clutch/brake fluid
> "Anybody know what "esterified" means?"
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
>
> Esters are made from the reaction of alcohols with an acid, which removes
> the OH (hydroxyl) group from the acid to form the ester. Usually, organic
> acids are used, but inorganic acids, such as boric acid can also be used.
> Aren't you glad you asked?
>
> John, BN4
John and Michael,
You are right in that esters are made from acids and alcohols, but the acid
must be organic. Even though the reference mentions boric acid, I fail to
see what ester could form. The reaction of an alcohol with an inorganic
acid results in the formation of unsaturated hydrocarbons, at least for a
few concentrated inorganic acids. In addition, the hydroxyl group is
removed from the alcohol molecule, not the acid. The ionizeable H of the
acid splits off with the hydroxyl group to form water as a byproduct.
Picky, I know but Michael asked.
Keith Pennell
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 7 May 2003 16:48:03 -0400
Subject: Re: BODY TAG?
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666 (3223 BJ8 81544)
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: I Erbs
To: BJ8Healeys
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2003 12:15 AM
Subject: RE: BODY TAG?
Anyone out there know if the tags are for a MKI or a 100-6 body?
3001
9494
I Erbs
It could be a MKI 3000
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of BJ8Healeys
Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2003 5:21 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: BODY TAG?
Hello, Ira -
3001 is the "batch" number. A series of bodies had this same number.
9494 would be the specific body number of your car, and is unique to that
chassis.
BMIHT can tell you the original VIN that belonged to that body plate, and
it
is the numbers off the body plate that you should give to BMIHT.
If you give them the engine number, they will give you back a certificate
for
the car that originally had that engine installed.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: I Erbs
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2003 6:31 PM
Subject: BODY TAG?
I'm going to be applying to Heritgae trust to try and get the original
VIN
for my car. I know the Engine Trans are donors from another car and they
can
trace the engine # and I can use that, but on my firewall is a tag with
3001
9494
I believe this tag was on the the car whe I bought it, then I installedd
the
engine and trans from another car.
Can anyone tell me what it stands for?
Thanks in Advance,
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 7 May 2003 17:00:06 -0400
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure, another chapter
It's possible to add a closed cooling/overflow system, if you wish. For info,
go here:
http://members.aol.com/bgahc/01_jwha_coolantrecovery.html
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Wood
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2003 9:05 AM
Subject: Oil Pressure, another chapter
Last night I replaced the original rebuild oil with
Castrol 20-50. I could see an immediate increase of
about 10 lbs pressure. 50 at idle when cold, and 20
at idle when hot. When I returned home to the
garage, feeling pretty good about the improved oil
pressure, I was surprised to find a pool of antifreeze
quickly accumulating under the radiator.
The water temp climbed to about 190 while I was out,
and I am wondering if the radiator was too full when I
started. any ideas?
Thanks again for your continued support.
Jim Wood
'67 BJ8
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
from list member Marion Brantley. I just modified it a bit and wrote it up
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 7 May 2003 18:33:19 -0400
Subject: Coolant overflow system
Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: BJ8Healeys
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2003 5:00 PM
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure, another chapter
Hi, Jim -
Congrats on the oil pressure improvement. That's more like what many of us
are seeing as normal.
The pool of antifreeze is most likely just a venting of excess fluid. Once
the radiator vents to its preferred level, it should not overflow in the
future. If the leaking continues, look for weeping from the water pump hole
or a leaky radiator/hoses.
It's possible to add a closed cooling/overflow system, if you wish. For
info,
go here:
http://members.aol.com/bgahc/01_jwha_coolantrecovery.html
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Wood
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2003 9:05 AM
Subject: Oil Pressure, another chapter
Last night I replaced the original rebuild oil with
Castrol 20-50. I could see an immediate increase of
about 10 lbs pressure. 50 at idle when cold, and 20
at idle when hot. When I returned home to the
garage, feeling pretty good about the improved oil
pressure, I was surprised to find a pool of antifreeze
quickly accumulating under the radiator.
The water temp climbed to about 190 while I was out,
and I am wondering if the radiator was too full when I
started. any ideas?
Thanks again for your continued support.
Jim Wood
'67 BJ8
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 7 May 2003 15:42:19 -0700
Subject: RE: BODY TAG?
My Mark 1 BN7 built in June of 1960 does not have the model type on the body
plate. Therefore I would say this is not true for all cars.
Frank Golding
1960 BN7 # 10610
-----Original Message-----
From: BJ8Healeys [mailto:sbyers@ec.rr.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2003 1:48 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: BODY TAG?
It's probably for a 100-6. According to Clausager (page 88), the Mark 1
body
tags also had the model type indicated on the body plate between the batch
and body numbers (e.g., 3039 BN7 7268). This later pattern carried
through
to the end of BJ8 production.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666 (3223 BJ8 81544)
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: I Erbs
To: BJ8Healeys
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2003 12:15 AM
Subject: RE: BODY TAG?
Anyone out there know if the tags are for a MKI or a 100-6 body?
3001
9494
I Erbs
It could be a MKI 3000
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of BJ8Healeys
Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2003 5:21 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: BODY TAG?
Hello, Ira -
3001 is the "batch" number. A series of bodies had this same number.
9494 would be the specific body number of your car, and is unique to that
chassis.
BMIHT can tell you the original VIN that belonged to that body plate, and
it
is the numbers off the body plate that you should give to BMIHT.
If you give them the engine number, they will give you back a certificate
for
the car that originally had that engine installed.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: I Erbs
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2003 6:31 PM
Subject: BODY TAG?
I'm going to be applying to Heritgae trust to try and get the original
VIN
for my car. I know the Engine Trans are donors from another car and they
can
trace the engine # and I can use that, but on my firewall is a tag with
3001
9494
I believe this tag was on the the car whe I bought it, then I installedd
the
engine and trans from another car.
Can anyone tell me what it stands for?
Thanks in Advance,
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 7 May 2003 18:23:30 -0500
Subject: British Car Week
If by chance you head out of the house on May 24 to begin your daily routine,
and you feel that you may have forgotten something very important, it just
might be your British car! May 24 is a very significant date this year because
it is the beginning of the 7th Annual British Car Week event that continues
through June 1. If you happen to wake up on June 2 and you're feeling
disappointed because the fun has come to an end, please don't worry. You can
go ahead and continue driving your little British car to your hearts desire.
As I'm reminded every year, if you're one of those enthusiasts who drive your
car regularly throughout the year, and you just don't see the point, then
you're probably one of those lucky enthusiast who live closer to the equator.
Unfortunately for many of us, we have to wait until all traces of that nasty
road salt has been washed away by the spring showers before we feel
comfortable rolling out our toys out of storage for the season.
As most of you know by now, British Car Week is an occasion to set aside all
of your worldly distractions, and spend some quality time on the roads of your
community with your little pride and joy. By getting yourself and your British
car out of the house or garage for some unforgettable fun, you're not only
doing yourself a great favor by enjoying a great part of life, but you will
also help spread awareness of these wonderfully charming pieces of British
motoring history for all to see and appreciate. Take the show on the road!!
With the help of Richard Gordon of Colorado and Joe Curry of Arizona, we now
have a nifty British Car Week sticker for those who would like to help spread
British car awareness wherever they go. It is a 3" vinyl, removable sticker
that can be placed on the inside of your window to be viewed from the outside.
For those who are interested, the image is one in the same that can be viewed
at the web page listed below. British Car Week is a not for profit endeavor.
Any measurable proceeds will go toward ordering more stickers to help promote
our hobby.
http://users.arczip.com/zntech/logo.html
The cost is $5 each (includes S&H - USA), and can be ordered by sending a
check to:
Scott Helms
60920 Walnut Farm Court
South Bend, IN 46614
A special thanks to all British car friends/enthusiasts who have been so
helpful spreading the word about our beloved British cars and related events.
Please feel free to pass this message on to others.
See you on the road......
Scott Helms
BritCarWeek@arczip.com
http://users.arczip.com/zntech/britishcarweek.html
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From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 7 May 2003 16:46:34 -0700
Subject: Horns
Does anyone out there have a set of original Healey horns they are willing
to sell at a reasonable price. I have one horn, but the plate with the
lettering is missing, therefore I don't know if it's a high or low note
horn. For that matter, I don't even know if it works.
If you can help, please contact me off the list.
Cheers,
Frank Golding
1960 BN7 # 10610
Back on the road this July after 22 years! Headed for HR2003 in Eureka.
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 08 May 2003 00:08:10 +0000
Subject: RE: BODY TAG?
> List,
>
> My Mark 1 BN7 built in June of 1960 does not have the model type on the body
> plate. Therefore I would say this is not true for all cars.
>
> Frank Golding
> 1960 BN7 # 10610
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: BJ8Healeys [mailto:sbyers@ec.rr.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2003 1:48 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: BODY TAG?
>
>
> It's probably for a 100-6. According to Clausager (page 88), the Mark 1
> body
> tags also had the model type indicated on the body plate between the batch
> and body numbers (e.g., 3039 BN7 7268). This later pattern carried
> through
> to the end of BJ8 production.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666 (3223 BJ8 81544)
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC USA
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: I Erbs
> To: BJ8Healeys
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2003 12:15 AM
> Subject: RE: BODY TAG?
>
>
> Anyone out there know if the tags are for a MKI or a 100-6 body?
> 3001
> 9494
> I Erbs
> It could be a MKI 3000
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of BJ8Healeys
> Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2003 5:21 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: BODY TAG?
>
>
> Hello, Ira -
> 3001 is the "batch" number. A series of bodies had this same number.
> 9494 would be the specific body number of your car, and is unique to that
> chassis.
>
> BMIHT can tell you the original VIN that belonged to that body plate, and
> it
> is the numbers off the body plate that you should give to BMIHT.
>
> If you give them the engine number, they will give you back a certificate
> for
> the car that originally had that engine installed.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC USA
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: I Erbs
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2003 6:31 PM
> Subject: BODY TAG?
>
>
> I'm going to be applying to Heritgae trust to try and get the original
> VIN
> for my car. I know the Engine Trans are donors from another car and they
> can
> trace the engine # and I can use that, but on my firewall is a tag with
>
> 3001
> 9494
>
> I believe this tag was on the the car whe I bought it, then I installedd
> the
> engine and trans from another car.
> Can anyone tell me what it stands for?
>
> Thanks in Advance,
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 7 May 2003 20:51:41 EDT
Subject: UNstuck, but not yet perfect, clutch (longish)
However (after numerous short test trips around the neighborhood) it behaved
well enough to be able to drive the car the 120+ miles from Novato, CA to
Colusa, CA, which was my immediate goal.
We had a window in our rainy weather today, and I seized the opportunity
(with my faithful wife following in our pickup, cell phone and CSAA card at
hand) to attempt the dash. It was a little chilly in the morning, so had
gotten out my jacket, etc., (car has no usable top at present) but finally
made the whole trip in a tee-shirt! I did get passed by a lot of mundane
vehicles, but, I didn't care a lick - I was in a Healey, and they weren't!!
That was me on E80, N505, and N5, just after midday.
During the two hours at 3000 in 4thOD the temp gauge never went over 180, and
oil pressure hovered right around 50. The engine seems to be in reasonably
good shape. NO smoking at all, though the exhaust pipes are a little darker
than I'd like. The OD, after sitting for 13 years, worked flawlessly, in and
out, from the very first switch-flip to the last kick-down. Brakes worked
fine, though I never had to stop short.
Now that I have it home, and the move is nearly complete, I can begin to
start my gradual overhaul. Already did the fan belt (I'd forgotten how much
fun that is) so radiator hoses and hydraulic lines will be next. Later this
year will be taking my spare head to Norman Nock for rebuilding to unleaded
specification.
Dick Hosmer
BT7L18556
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From "Gary R. Brierton" <gbrierton at hotmail.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 7 May 2003 20:56:39 -0400
Subject: UNstuck, but not yet perfect, clutch (longish)
Gary B. (the rall(e)y god)
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From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 7 May 2003 18:53:10 -0700
Subject: RE: BODY TAG?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of fawcett1187@attbi.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2003 5:08 PM
To: Golding, Frank
Cc: 'BJ8Healeys'; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: BODY TAG?
My BT7 built in April 1959 does not have a model type either.
--
Mark
Carson, CA
-
-
> List,
>
> My Mark 1 BN7 built in June of 1960 does not have the model type on the
body
> plate. Therefore I would say this is not true for all cars.
>
> Frank Golding
> 1960 BN7 # 10610
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: BJ8Healeys [mailto:sbyers@ec.rr.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2003 1:48 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: BODY TAG?
>
>
> It's probably for a 100-6. According to Clausager (page 88), the Mark 1
> body
> tags also had the model type indicated on the body plate between the
batch
> and body numbers (e.g., 3039 BN7 7268). This later pattern carried
> through
> to the end of BJ8 production.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666 (3223 BJ8 81544)
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC USA
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: I Erbs
> To: BJ8Healeys
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2003 12:15 AM
> Subject: RE: BODY TAG?
>
>
> Anyone out there know if the tags are for a MKI or a 100-6 body?
> 3001
> 9494
> I Erbs
> It could be a MKI 3000
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of BJ8Healeys
> Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2003 5:21 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: BODY TAG?
>
>
> Hello, Ira -
> 3001 is the "batch" number. A series of bodies had this same number.
> 9494 would be the specific body number of your car, and is unique to
that
> chassis.
>
> BMIHT can tell you the original VIN that belonged to that body plate,
and
> it
> is the numbers off the body plate that you should give to BMIHT.
>
> If you give them the engine number, they will give you back a
certificate
> for
> the car that originally had that engine installed.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC USA
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: I Erbs
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2003 6:31 PM
> Subject: BODY TAG?
>
>
> I'm going to be applying to Heritgae trust to try and get the original
> VIN
> for my car. I know the Engine Trans are donors from another car and
they
> can
> trace the engine # and I can use that, but on my firewall is a tag
with
>
> 3001
> 9494
>
> I believe this tag was on the the car whe I bought it, then I
installedd
> the
> engine and trans from another car.
> Can anyone tell me what it stands for?
>
> Thanks in Advance,
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 7 May 2003 22:21:31 EDT
Subject: Re: Directional flashers
* * * * * * * * * *
Tech Talk by Norman Nock $30.00 + S H
A Collection on my tech. articles, that have been in various magazines along
with factory and Lucas bulletins about how things work. In easy to
understand writing. 221 pages Call me for more information at 209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 07 May 2003 21:46:33 -0600
Subject: Re: BODY TAG?
In that case the tag is incorrect for a BN1 or BN2. I guess the only option left
would be to check the numbers on the back of the cockpit moulding pieces, the
edge of the bonnet, or the boot lid prop rod bracket. If these pieces are
original they will bear the original body number for the car. BMIHT will be able
to give you a Heritage certificate based on that information.
If you have the body number the 100 register can tell you the probable batch
number.
Bill Lawrence
BJ8Healeys wrote:
> It's probably for a 100-6. According to Clausager (page 88), the Mark 1 body
> tags also had the model type indicated on the body plate between the batch
> and body numbers (e.g., 3039 BN7 7268). This later pattern carried through
> to the end of BJ8 production.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666 (3223 BJ8 81544)
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC USA
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: I Erbs
> To: BJ8Healeys
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2003 12:15 AM
> Subject: RE: BODY TAG?
>
> Anyone out there know if the tags are for a MKI or a 100-6 body?
> 3001
> 9494
> I Erbs
> It could be a MKI 3000
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of BJ8Healeys
> Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2003 5:21 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: BODY TAG?
>
> Hello, Ira -
> 3001 is the "batch" number. A series of bodies had this same number.
> 9494 would be the specific body number of your car, and is unique to that
> chassis.
>
> BMIHT can tell you the original VIN that belonged to that body plate, and
> it
> is the numbers off the body plate that you should give to BMIHT.
>
> If you give them the engine number, they will give you back a certificate
> for
> the car that originally had that engine installed.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC USA
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: I Erbs
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2003 6:31 PM
> Subject: BODY TAG?
>
> I'm going to be applying to Heritgae trust to try and get the original
> VIN
> for my car. I know the Engine Trans are donors from another car and they
> can
> trace the engine # and I can use that, but on my firewall is a tag with
>
> 3001
> 9494
>
> I believe this tag was on the the car whe I bought it, then I installedd
> the
> engine and trans from another car.
> Can anyone tell me what it stands for?
>
> Thanks in Advance,
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 07 May 2003 22:00:33 -0600
Subject: Re: Did I stump the Experts?
Bill Lawrence
Larry Wendland wrote:
> Take the damper piston out of the damper and clean out the oil and fill the
>oil chamber with gasoline and see if it leaks out while holding it in you
>hand. This way you can see it from all sides. It may have a hairline crack
>that can not be seen easily. The oil may not leak out untill exposed to a
>vaccum or the action of the piston. If need be push a cork or some type of
>stopper in top of the oil chamber to apply some pressrue to the oil chamber.
>Hope this helps.
>
> Larry
> '67 BJ8
>
> "C. Cruz" <ahrdstr@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> >Mornin' Listers,
> >
> >It's been a few days since my last posting regarding the vanishing damper
>oil.
> >Only two responses with possible suggestions. It's got me wondering if I
> >stumped everyone?
> >
> >One Lister suggested that the leak may be around the seat of the needle
> >assembly. I haven't taken the needle assembly off, but looking at the
> >cut-away diagrams in the Haynes AH 3000 and SU manuals, it doesn't look as
> >though the assembly recesses enough to access the piston rod. Is that true?
> >Or is this how the damper oil normally departs the piston rod?
> >
> >Any other suggestions, leads, ideas or banter is greatly appreciated. I am
>so
> >looking forward to getting the car back on the road. My original posting
> >details are below if that helps.
> >
> >Cheers,
> >Carlos Cruz
> >'60 BN7
> >
> >-----------------------------------------------------------------------
> >I'm hoping some of you can help me troubleshoot a problem I've been having
> >with my carbs. One of my two SUs (specifically the HD6 nearest the firewall)
> >is failing to maintain an adequate level of damper oil. It takes very little
> >time (about 20 minutes) for the damper to run dry, fouling up the piston.
>The
> >problem started last fall during my last long drive of the year. Prior to
>that
> >the car ran just fine. The problem continued
> >shortly after bring the car out of hibernation this past weekend. All the
> >fluids were inspected and topped off if need prior to a short warm up drive
>on
> >Saturday.
> >
> >I took the carbs apart to the point of removing the dash pots, pistons to
>find
> >everything coated in a black, burnt coating. After cleaning everything there
> >was nothing noticeably wrong with the set ups other than a missing washer
> >inside one piston (the washer under the spring). There appeared to be no
> >cracks in the piston or the piston rod and the needle seemed to be seated
>well
> >with no play at all. Also, I did not notice any ridges or
> >other deformities on the needles.
> >
> >My questions to the group are these: Where does the damper oil go? I
>suspect
> >its bleeding out somewhere and burning up in the piston chamber - is that
> >correct. What have been the causes and thus the remedies from others having
> >experienced similar problems?
>
> __________________________________________________________________
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 8 May 2003 00:07:08 -0700
Subject: Re: brake bleeding
Seems to me the location of the brake union in the engine compt is
irrelevent as both rear brakes are fed from a common line from that union.
As you noted the real reason is that the plumbing for lines on the rear axle
housing is a longer run for the left rear.
Keith Pennell
> Al -
>
> The left rear IS the furthest on ALL LHD healeys
> because the hydralic brake union is located on the
> opposite side of the engine bay from the Reservoir and
> the Master Cylinder. That means the length of
> hydralic fluid travel to the left rear brake piston is
> the furthest on the car eventhough as the crow flies
> the Reservoir is closer than the right rear.
>
> In actuality, because of how the piping is set on the
> rear axle, the length of travel to Left rear is
> furthest for all RHD healeys as well.
>
> Look at this schematic for the BN1 and you will see
> what I am talking about:
>
>
http://www.mossmotors.com/cgi-bin/db2www/mossmotors/MossUSA/Shop/ViewProduct
s.mac/report?T=76738&ModelID=10000&PlateID=2376
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 7 May 2003 23:10:25 -0500
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure, another chapter
On the temp at 190, a rebuilt engine will often run hotter at first with
tighter rings etc. so it may actually run coller as it is broken in.
As others have said, the coolant could very well be normal overflow. My
coolant return system is from an off the shelf deal avialable at many auto
parts stores, I think less than ten bucs for clear plastic overflow tank,
tubing and clamps, mounted min between back of the left front fenderwell and
the firewall on drivers side, not too noticeable.
Water leaks are usually pretty easy to find look under the hood and under
the car with flashlight when it occurs and you should be able to see where
it it coming out.
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 8 May 2003 00:18:00 -0700
Subject: Re: Seat Rails
Metal strip goes between the floor and the wood strip. While you are at it,
replace the wood strip with one of the same width and length but tapered
from about 1 inch thickness in the front to 1/4 at the rear. Provides a
little thigh support and a slight recline for a more comf driving position.
Keith Pennell
> List,
>
> I'm getting ready to install my new seat rails, and have all the required
> hardware.
>
> Question: Does the sheet metal strip, with 3 holes (same width and length
as
> the wood), go on top of the floor pan, (between the wood and the rail), or
> under the floor?
>
> Cheers,
>
> Frank Golding
> 1960 BN7 # 10610
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 8 May 2003 15:28:32 +1000
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure
I used to use a Ryco 'felt' filter element - R206VB (rather than the paper
R236P element) in the original Healey oilf filter canister. I don't know
what brand/ part numbers you used - but RYCO has the market share here in
Australia.
Aside from original appearance - the advantage of the original old canister
arrangement was that it had a felt element available - which filters down to
a much smaller size (in microns) than a paper element. I can't remember the
numbers now - but there is actually quite a large diffference in the size
(in microns) that the felt element R206VB would filter - compared to the
paper element R236P - and thats why RYCO made 2 different elements for the
same filter.
So when RYCO discontinued manufacturing the felt element R206VB - and these
felt elements were getting harder/ impossible to find - I started to look at
the options. If I was going to get a paper element - instead of felt - why
not just get a modern disposeable setup?
It is the first time in over 20 years of healeys ownership that I have
changed from the original canister with element to a modern spin off
'allinone' type.
During the rebuild of my car in 1998, I looked at the various adaptor
blocks, and the spin off filters that they used.
I finally fitted a spinoff adaptor, that uses a modern Ryco Z10/ Z89A
spinoff type filter, with the anti drain back valve. The Z10/ Z89A is the
same filter as used by the 5.0 litre V8 AU Ford falcon, 4.7 litre Jeep
Cherokee, most 1990s Audis and most 1990s Volvos). These are all reasonably
high performance engines; all reasonably common in Australia.
I got my adaptor for the engine block from the 'Healey Factory' in
Melbourne - and the elements are available at most auto parts outlets - and
a range of brands etc are available. I'm sure there are numerous other
alternatives out there.
The original canister system was always a pain - if you didn't get
everything assembled perfectly - you got leaks from the canister (and i
never found a source for the rubber O ring if you did accidentally crimp the
O ring) - and it was just such a messy and time consuming job - I dreaded
having to do it the scheduled twice a year. I really hated doing it from
under the car - the only way I found to do it properly was to pull the whole
thing off the engine block, clean it, degrease & blow out, and remove &
refit the element on the bench - make a new gasket; reassemble and then bolt
it back onto the engine block.
As there was now no compelling technical reason (for me) to stay with an
original canister (ie no felt element for better filtration) - why bother
with the grief associated with using/ changing the original one? So I went
for the modern easy, never leaks, cheaper alternative.
I now change my oil filter regularly (every 6 months on the button!),
because it only takes a few minutes, and I don't have to grovel around on
the garage floor under the car getting dripped on!
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Zuiderveld" <davzu29@earthlink.net>
To: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>; "Jim Wood" <jwood_kc@yahoo.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2003 10:12 AM
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure
> Chirs, What make of filter do you are now use?
>
> DZ
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
> To: "Jim Wood" <jwood_kc@yahoo.com>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2003 10:45 AM
> Subject: Re: Oil Pressure
>
>
> > Hi Jim,
> >
> > Did you use an 'oil additive'?
> >
> > I experienced almost exactly what you are describing about 7 or 8 years
> ago,
> > but not after an engine rebuild - after a normal oil and filter change.
> I
> > had added a bottle of some 'super duper you beaut oil additive'.
Pressure
> > was fine before I changed the oil, and fine after I changed it and
started
> > the engine up - just as you described. Then after I drove it about 4 or
5
> > miles the oil pressure dropped to about 10 lbs at idle - and didn't go
> over
> > 30 .
> >
> > I pulled the (new) oil filter which had now been on the car less than 1
> > hour - the stock Healey 'felt one' - and it was full of this
> bloodyadditive.
> > The additive - which had 'solid' coppery looking bits in it had blocked
> the
> > oil filter!
> >
> > I drained the oil, bought more oil and a new filter, threw the additive
in
> > the garbage bin, and the problem went away back to 30 - 40 at idle, 60
at
> > driving.
> >
> > Beware snakeoil additives - especially those with solids -
> > teflon/lead/copper/ blah blah metal coating whatever.
> >
> > In terms of engine oil, I have found the best results from penrite HPR50
> > (peak of Sydney summer) and HPR40 (rest of the time).
> >
> > If you used an additive Jim - I suspect the additive has blocked the
> > filter - change the oil and the filter - and see if the problem goes
away.
> >
> > Best regards
> >
> > Chris
> > ______________________________________
> >
> > Chris Dimmock
> > Sydney Australia
> >
> > http://www.myaustinhealey.com
> > ______________________________________
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Jim Wood" <jwood_kc@yahoo.com>
> > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2003 12:00 AM
> > Subject: Oil Pressure
> >
> >
> > > I have a question about the oil pressure in a newly
> > > rebuilt engine in my BJ8. When I first start, the
> > > engine holds about 40lbs at idle which increases to
> > > over 60 with higher RPMs. After driving a mile or so,
> > > the pressure at idle drops between 10 and 20, and the
> > > higher rpm range is between 30 and 40lbs.
> > >
> > > 1. Should I be concerned with these pressure readings?
> > > 2. Would a higher weight oil be recommended, say
> > > 20w50?
> > > 3. Should I try to connect another oil pressure guage
> > > to confirm the accuracy of the rebuilt guage I
> > > installed in the dash?
> > > Other recommendations?
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From Lou G <lgalper1 at cox.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 07 May 2003 23:55:27 -0700
Subject: Tonneau Covers !
Everflex vinyl is Made in England and close to original
Sunfast cloth looks very 'show car'
What's everyone's first choice ??
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From "R.J. Denton" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 08 May 2003 04:12:38 -0500
Subject: Re: Tonneau Covers !
Lou G wrote:
> We have a choice for our tonneaus and tops....
>
> Everflex vinyl is Made in England and close to original
>
> Sunfast cloth looks very 'show car'
>
> What's everyone's first choice ??
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From "john" <john.metcalfe3 at ntlworld.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 8 May 2003 07:04:22 -0700 (Pacific Daylight Time)
Subject: Cracked Cylinder Head
I have a cylinder head with a crack from the valve seating to the cooling
cavity is this worth repairing or should the unit be replaced. If it can be
repaired what is the best way to do it.
Also what is involved in converting this head to use unleaded fuel and is it
worth doing.
All help and advice gratefully accepted
John Metcalfe
BN4 BT7
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of
IMSTP.gif]
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From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 8 May 2003 08:29:41 -0700
Subject: RE: BODY TAG?
I must retract my statement from yesterday, that's what I get for relying on
memory. The fact of the matter is my car's body plate or tag does have the
model type. Sorry, I did not intend to mislead anyone.
Frank Golding
Body # 3047 BN7 / 9737
1960 BN7 # 10610
-----Original Message-----
From: Golding, Frank
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2003 3:42 PM
To: 'BJ8Healeys'; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: BODY TAG?
List,
My Mark 1 BN7 built in June of 1960 does not have the model type on the body
plate. Therefore I would say this is not true for all cars.
Frank Golding
1960 BN7 # 10610
-----Original Message-----
From: BJ8Healeys [mailto:sbyers@ec.rr.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2003 1:48 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: BODY TAG?
It's probably for a 100-6. According to Clausager (page 88), the Mark 1
body
tags also had the model type indicated on the body plate between the batch
and body numbers (e.g., 3039 BN7 7268). This later pattern carried
through
to the end of BJ8 production.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666 (3223 BJ8 81544)
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: I Erbs
To: BJ8Healeys
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2003 12:15 AM
Subject: RE: BODY TAG?
Anyone out there know if the tags are for a MKI or a 100-6 body?
3001
9494
I Erbs
It could be a MKI 3000
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of BJ8Healeys
Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2003 5:21 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: BODY TAG?
Hello, Ira -
3001 is the "batch" number. A series of bodies had this same number.
9494 would be the specific body number of your car, and is unique to that
chassis.
BMIHT can tell you the original VIN that belonged to that body plate, and
it
is the numbers off the body plate that you should give to BMIHT.
If you give them the engine number, they will give you back a certificate
for
the car that originally had that engine installed.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: I Erbs
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2003 6:31 PM
Subject: BODY TAG?
I'm going to be applying to Heritgae trust to try and get the original
VIN
for my car. I know the Engine Trans are donors from another car and they
can
trace the engine # and I can use that, but on my firewall is a tag with
3001
9494
I believe this tag was on the the car whe I bought it, then I installedd
the
engine and trans from another car.
Can anyone tell me what it stands for?
Thanks in Advance,
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Brian Burke <wharf-st at shaw.ca>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 08 May 2003 09:12:14 -0700
Subject: Cylinder Head
Brian
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From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding@plantronics.com>
To: "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding@plantronics.com>; "'BJ8Healeys'"
Date: Thu, 8 May 2003 11:15:53 -0500
Subject: RE: BODY TAG?
> List,
>
> I must retract my statement from yesterday, that's what I get for relying
on
> memory. The fact of the matter is my car's body plate or tag does have
the
> model type. Sorry, I did not intend to mislead anyone.
>
> Frank Golding
> Body # 3047 BN7 / 9737
> 1960 BN7 # 10610
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Golding, Frank
> Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2003 3:42 PM
> To: 'BJ8Healeys'; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: BODY TAG?
>
>
> List,
>
> My Mark 1 BN7 built in June of 1960 does not have the model type on the
body
> plate. Therefore I would say this is not true for all cars.
>
> Frank Golding
> 1960 BN7 # 10610
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: BJ8Healeys [mailto:sbyers@ec.rr.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2003 1:48 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: BODY TAG?
>
>
> It's probably for a 100-6. According to Clausager (page 88), the Mark 1
> body
> tags also had the model type indicated on the body plate between the
batch
> and body numbers (e.g., 3039 BN7 7268). This later pattern carried
> through
> to the end of BJ8 production.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666 (3223 BJ8 81544)
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC USA
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: I Erbs
> To: BJ8Healeys
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2003 12:15 AM
> Subject: RE: BODY TAG?
>
>
> Anyone out there know if the tags are for a MKI or a 100-6 body?
> 3001
> 9494
> I Erbs
> It could be a MKI 3000
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of BJ8Healeys
> Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2003 5:21 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: BODY TAG?
>
>
> Hello, Ira -
> 3001 is the "batch" number. A series of bodies had this same number.
> 9494 would be the specific body number of your car, and is unique to
that
> chassis.
>
> BMIHT can tell you the original VIN that belonged to that body plate,
and
> it
> is the numbers off the body plate that you should give to BMIHT.
>
> If you give them the engine number, they will give you back a
certificate
> for
> the car that originally had that engine installed.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC USA
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: I Erbs
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2003 6:31 PM
> Subject: BODY TAG?
>
>
> I'm going to be applying to Heritgae trust to try and get the original
> VIN
> for my car. I know the Engine Trans are donors from another car and
they
> can
> trace the engine # and I can use that, but on my firewall is a tag
with
>
> 3001
> 9494
>
> I believe this tag was on the the car whe I bought it, then I
installedd
> the
> engine and trans from another car.
> Can anyone tell me what it stands for?
>
> Thanks in Advance,
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "IRA ERBS" <IErbs at vansd.org>
From: "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding@plantronics.com>
To: "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding@plantronics.com>; "'BJ8Healeys'"
Date: Thu, 08 May 2003 10:33:26 -0700
Subject: Re: BODY TAG?
>>> "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net> 05/08/03 09:15AM >>>
Well,
since you retracted your statement so quickly,
you pro'lly won't be sued!
HoYo
----- Original Message -----
From: "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding@plantronics.com>
To: "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding@plantronics.com>; "'BJ8Healeys'"
<sbyers@ec.rr.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2003 10:29 AM
Subject: RE: BODY TAG?
> List,
>
> I must retract my statement from yesterday, that's what I get for
relying
on
> memory. The fact of the matter is my car's body plate or tag does
have
the
> model type. Sorry, I did not intend to mislead anyone.
>
> Frank Golding
> Body # 3047 BN7 / 9737
> 1960 BN7 # 10610
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Golding, Frank
> Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2003 3:42 PM
> To: 'BJ8Healeys'; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: BODY TAG?
>
>
> List,
>
> My Mark 1 BN7 built in June of 1960 does not have the model type on
the
body
> plate. Therefore I would say this is not true for all cars.
>
> Frank Golding
> 1960 BN7 # 10610
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: BJ8Healeys [mailto:sbyers@ec.rr.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2003 1:48 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: BODY TAG?
>
>
> It's probably for a 100-6. According to Clausager (page 88), the
Mark 1
> body
> tags also had the model type indicated on the body plate between
the
batch
> and body numbers (e.g., 3039 BN7 7268). This later pattern
carried
> through
> to the end of BJ8 production.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666 (3223 BJ8 81544)
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC USA
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: I Erbs
> To: BJ8Healeys
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2003 12:15 AM
> Subject: RE: BODY TAG?
>
>
> Anyone out there know if the tags are for a MKI or a 100-6 body?
> 3001
> 9494
> I Erbs
> It could be a MKI 3000
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of BJ8Healeys
> Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2003 5:21 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: BODY TAG?
>
>
> Hello, Ira -
> 3001 is the "batch" number. A series of bodies had this same
number.
> 9494 would be the specific body number of your car, and is unique
to
that
> chassis.
>
> BMIHT can tell you the original VIN that belonged to that body
plate,
and
> it
> is the numbers off the body plate that you should give to BMIHT.
>
> If you give them the engine number, they will give you back a
certificate
> for
> the car that originally had that engine installed.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC USA
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: I Erbs
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2003 6:31 PM
> Subject: BODY TAG?
>
>
> I'm going to be applying to Heritgae trust to try and get the
original
> VIN
> for my car. I know the Engine Trans are donors from another car
and
they
> can
> trace the engine # and I can use that, but on my firewall is a
tag
with
>
> 3001
> 9494
>
> I believe this tag was on the the car whe I bought it, then I
installedd
> the
> engine and trans from another car.
> Can anyone tell me what it stands for?
>
> Thanks in Advance,
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "john" <john.metcalfe3@ntlworld.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 8 May 2003 12:58:26 -0500
Subject: Cracked Cylinder Head
> I could do with some sound advice from the list I am working on a
> restoration of a BT7 located in the UK
>
> I have a cylinder head with a crack from the valve seating to the cooling
> cavity is this worth repairing or should the unit be replaced. If it can
be
> repaired what is the best way to do it.
>
> Also what is involved in converting this head to use unleaded fuel and is
it
> worth doing.
>
> All help and advice gratefully accepted
>
>
>
> John Metcalfe
> BN4 BT7
>
> [demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name
of IMSTP.gif]
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From Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: "john" <john.metcalfe3@ntlworld.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 08 May 2003 14:26:16 -0400
Subject: re: oil pressure
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From "Olin Brimberry" <olin.brimberry.b at bayer.com>
From: "john" <john.metcalfe3@ntlworld.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 8 May 2003 15:12:50 -0400
Subject: Horn Button, Steering wheel, speedo and air cleaners
I would be interested in used options (good condition of course) if anyone can
help.
Best Regards,
Olin Brimberry
1962 BT7
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From "Ray Bradbery" <rbradber at bigpond.net.au>
From: "john" <john.metcalfe3@ntlworld.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 9 May 2003 05:37:15 +1000
Subject: Horn Button
Regards
Ray Bradbery
Sydney, Australia
1927 MG 14/28
1949 MGTC
1951 MGTD
1958 Morris Minor Pickup
1959 Austin Healey 3000
1968 MGB V8
2002 MGTF 160
2002 BMW 330i
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.478 / Virus Database: 275 - Release Date: 6/05/2003
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at sbcglobal.net>
From: "john" <john.metcalfe3@ntlworld.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 08 May 2003 12:38:50 -0700
Subject: Re: oil pressure
Have you done the checks that Norm recommends to see if you need a new
rocker shaft and bushings? In my opinion and experience, 20 psi at
idle is fine. What do you think it should be? Do you know that your
gauge is accurate? (again something that Norm talks about in his tech
talk pages). Don't spend your money until you have some reason to
spend it.
-Roland
BN1, BJ7
On Thu, 08 May 2003 14:26:16 -0400, Steven wrote:
::Hi on my 58bn4 my oil pressure is 55 at start up and 45 to 55 running at 4200
:and hot at idle a low 20lbs. To me 20lbs is low. I just recieved my new teck
:talk book from Norman Nock (great book) and I`am going to change out my
:rocker arm asembly. I know this is going to help bring up my pressure the way
:the oil was pissing out of top of my rocker arms.Thank Steve 100-6
: also Mike at BCS Thanks for your help
::
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From "IRA ERBS" <IErbs at vansd.org>
From: "john" <john.metcalfe3@ntlworld.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 08 May 2003 14:04:20 -0700
Subject: Re: Horn Button
>>> "Ray Bradbery" <rbradber@bigpond.net.au> 05/08/03 12:37PM >>>
I am in the final stages of restoring my 1959 BN7. Car is all painted
(for
the second time) and we are in the process of assembling. The surround
for
the horn button (looks like black bakelite) has a piece missing. I have
been
attempting to find a replacement but the supplier in Australia (The
Healey
Factory) doesn't stock them. Does anyone know if these are available or
will
I need to repair the existing one somehow?
Regards
Ray Bradbery
Sydney, Australia
1927 MG 14/28
1949 MGTC
1951 MGTD
1958 Morris Minor Pickup
1959 Austin Healey 3000
1968 MGB V8
2002 MGTF 160
2002 BMW 330i
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.478 / Virus Database: 275 - Release Date: 6/05/2003
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From Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: "Roland Wilhelmy" <rwil@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Steven Tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Thu, 08 May 2003 17:13:48 -0400
Subject: Re: oil pressure
> Steve-
>
> Have you done the checks that Norm recommends to see if you need a new
> rocker shaft and bushings? In my opinion and experience, 20 psi at
> idle is fine. What do you think it should be? Do you know that your
> gauge is accurate? (again something that Norm talks about in his tech
> talk pages). Don't spend your money until you have some reason to
> spend it.
>
> -Roland
> BN1, BJ7
> On Thu, 08 May 2003 14:26:16 -0400, Steven wrote:
>
> ::Hi on my 58bn4 my oil pressure is 55 at start up and 45 to 55 running at
4200 and hot at idle a low 20lbs. To me 20lbs is low. I just recieved my new
teck talk book from Norman Nock (great book) and I`am going to change
out my rocker arm asembly. I know this is going to help bring up my pressure
the way the oil was pissing out of top of my rocker arms.Thank Steve 100-6
also Mike at BCS Thanks for your help
> ::
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Roland Wilhelmy" <rwil@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Steven Tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Thu, 08 May 2003 14:23:01 -0700
Subject: Re: Horn Button
-Roland
On Fri, 9 May 2003 05:37:15 +1000, Ray Bradbery wrote:
::I am in the final stages of restoring my 1959 BN7....The surround for
::the horn button (looks like black bakelite) has a piece missing. I have been
::attempting to find a replacement but the supplier in Australia (The Healey
::Factory) doesn't stock them. Does anyone know if these are available or will
::I need to repair the existing one somehow?
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From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: "Roland Wilhelmy" <rwil@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Steven Tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Thu, 8 May 2003 17:49:45 EDT
Subject: Re: Horn Button
The fellow you need to contact is Dave Pigden, here in San Diego, California.
He sells the outer trafficator or steering column control piece. His e-mail
address is,
eby@ixpres.com.
I have rebuilt dozens of these assemblies over the years and I can tell you
from experience that repairing the broken outer Bakelite piece is difficult
at best. I use either "JB Weld" or "PC7" and then either dye the epoxy
black, but only if it is a small area or the only other option is to paint
the entire piece after the repairs are complete.
Cheers,
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
In a message dated 5/8/03 2:25:31 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
rwil@sbcglobal.net writes:
<< There is a supplier who surfaces on eBay every couple of months. He
has a stock of horn button surrounds in a very sturdy and well made
black plastic (not Bakelite). Sorry but I was unable to locate a name
or address in my files.
-Roland
On Fri, 9 May 2003 05:37:15 +1000, Ray Bradbery wrote:
::I am in the final stages of restoring my 1959 BN7....The surround for
::the horn button (looks like black bakelite) has a piece missing. I have
been
::attempting to find a replacement but the supplier in Australia (The Healey
::Factory) doesn't stock them. Does anyone know if these are available or
will
::I need to repair the existing one somehow?
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From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
From: "Roland Wilhelmy" <rwil@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Steven Tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Thu, 8 May 2003 15:20:04 -0700
Subject: RE: Horn Button
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: IRA ERBS [mailto:IErbs@vansd.org]
Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2003 2:04 PM
To: rbradber@bigpond.net.au
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Horn Button
Vic Wright in Portland, OR has lots of bits and pieces. He rebuilt my
trafficator and it look new. I don't have his number at work, but will
repost tonight if someone else has not done so. He has an ad in the
Healey Club of America Magazine. He's a great guy and will give you an
estimate up front
>>> "Ray Bradbery" <rbradber@bigpond.net.au> 05/08/03 12:37PM >>>
I am in the final stages of restoring my 1959 BN7. Car is all painted
(for
the second time) and we are in the process of assembling. The surround
for
the horn button (looks like black bakelite) has a piece missing. I have
been
attempting to find a replacement but the supplier in Australia (The
Healey
Factory) doesn't stock them. Does anyone know if these are available or
will
I need to repair the existing one somehow?
Regards
Ray Bradbery
Sydney, Australia
1927 MG 14/28
1949 MGTC
1951 MGTD
1958 Morris Minor Pickup
1959 Austin Healey 3000
1968 MGB V8
2002 MGTF 160
2002 BMW 330i
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From "Healey, Graham" <Graham.Healey at lse.com.au>
From: "Roland Wilhelmy" <rwil@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Steven Tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Fri, 9 May 2003 09:22:53 +1000
Subject: British Car Auction
1967 Austin Healey 3000 Mk3. John Healey's personal car. Blue over white.
Left hand drive. Runs well. Good condition. Car will be auctioned at
Brooklands UK on June 2nd, The car will be in the catalogue to be produced
along with other classic cars.
http://www.british-car-auctions.co.uk/ the car has not yet been added to the
list but will be shortly.
British Car Auctions Ltd
Auction Centre,
Blackbushe Airport.
Blackwater'
Camberley,
Surrey GU17 9LG
UK
Tel 01252 878555.
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From "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe at earthlink.net>
From: "Roland Wilhelmy" <rwil@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Steven Tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Thu, 8 May 2003 19:37:36 -0400
Subject: Indy 500 Tickets
I have 2 sets of 2 seats to the Indianapolis 500, May 25, 2003 that I will not
be using this year . Specifically, they are in the Paddock Box # 16, Row S,
seat 9 and 10. The second set is Paddock Box # 16, Row T, seat 9 and 10.
These seats are at the start/finish line, across from the pits, the
ceremonies, the 500 Queens seats, the scoring tower and the winners circle.
All the celebrities are interviewed here and so on. This is where Paul Page
does his thing and that "private" sings "Back Home Again In Indiana". As you
can see, these seats are about 20 rows from the fence and track surface. You
can see into turn #1 and the exit of turn # 4 and of course all of the pits.
Just so you know, you are able to "feel" the cars as they run and as an
important aside, you will certainly "hear" the cars.
I have owned these seats for more than 30 years and have another set of seats
just above these. The face value of the seats is $85.00. I could sell the
seats at the track for a great deal more. All I am asking for, from a member
of the list, is the face value. Therefore, $170 per set. I will sell them
only in sets of 2.
I will be at the BGAHC meet in Georgetown, May 16, 17 and 18 for anyone's
convenience. We can make other arrangements if needed. I retain all renewal
rights to the seats and they are not refundable. To prevent any problems or
hard feelings, only cash or certified check is acceptable.
If anyone is interested, contact me off list.
Thanks,
Fred
'63 BJ7
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From "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe at earthlink.net>
From: "Roland Wilhelmy" <rwil@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Steven Tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Thu, 8 May 2003 21:28:36 -0400
Subject: Indy 500 Tickets
I have 2 sets of 2 seats to the Indianapolis 500, May 25, 2003 that I will not
be using this year . Specifically, they are in the Paddock Box # 16, Row S,
seat 9 and 10. The second set is Paddock Box # 16, Row T, seat 9 and 10.
These seats are at the start/finish line, across from the pits, the
ceremonies, the 500 Queens seats, the scoring tower and the winners circle.
All the celebrities are interviewed here and so on. This is where Paul Page
does his thing and that "private" sings "Back Home Again In Indiana". As you
can see, these seats are about 20 rows from the fence and track surface. You
can see into turn #1 and the exit of turn # 4 and of course all of the pits.
Just so you know, you are able to "feel" the cars as they run and as an
important aside, you will certainly "hear" the cars.
I have owned these seats for more than 30 years and have another set of seats
just above these. The face value of the seats is $85.00. I could sell the
seats at the track for a great deal more. All I am asking for, from a member
of the list, is the face value. Therefore, $170 per set. I will sell them
only in sets of 2.
I will be at the BGAHC meet in Georgetown, May 16, 17 and 18 for anyone's
convenience. We can make other arrangements if needed. I retain all renewal
rights to the seats and they are not refundable. To prevent any problems or
hard feelings, only cash or certified check is acceptable.
If anyone is interested, contact me off list.
Thanks,
Fred
'63 BJ7
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Roland Wilhelmy" <rwil@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Steven Tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Thu, 8 May 2003 22:25:30 EDT
Subject: Re: Horn Button
* * * * * * * * * *
Tech Talk by Norman Nock $30.00 + S H
A Collection on my tech. articles, that have been in various magazines along
with factory and Lucas bulletins about how things work. In easy to
understand writing. 221 pages Call me for more information at 209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
When I am in a used book store , I always go looking for old , British Car
books.
Sometime ago I found one about LUCAS ignition . The store owner told me he
had had these books 10 years and never sold one , so I purchased his complete
stock .
This book tells just about everything you would need to know about " HOW
IT WORKS ''. For example , the coil - function and troubleshooting ,
distributors , centrifugal and vacuum advance , high performance engines ,
timing light . electronic ignition , trouble shooting .
The last 41 pages list over 1,000 distributors by part number, model ,
centrifugal advance degrees at three different R.P.M , and at what R.P.M
there is zero advance .
Copies are available for $ 15.00 + S.H Norman Nock - British Car
Specialists
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From "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe at earthlink.net>
From: "Roland Wilhelmy" <rwil@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Steven Tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Thu, 8 May 2003 21:55:10 -0400
Subject: Indy 500 Tickets
I have 2 sets of 2 seats to the Indianapolis 500, May 25, 2003 that I will not
be using this year. Specifically, they are in the Paddock Box #16, Row S,
seats 9 and 10. The second set in Paddock Box # 16, Row T, seats 9 and 10.
These seats are at the start/finish line, across from the pits, the 500 Queens
seats, the scoring tower and the winners circle. All the celebrities are
interviewed across the way and so on. This is where Paul Page does his thing
and that "private" sings "Back Home In Indiana". As you can see, these seats
are about 20 rows from the finish and the track surface. You can see into
turn # 1 and the exit of turn # 4 and all of the main straight. Just so you
know, you are able to "feel" the cars as they run and as an important aside,
you will certainly "hear" the cars.
I have owned these seats for over 30 years and have another set of seats near
these. The face value of each seat is $85.00. I could sell the seats at the
track for a great deal more. I am asking for just the face value of the sets,
thus, each set is $170.00. I will sell them only in the 2 seat sets.
I will be at the BGAHC meet in Georgetown, Ky, May 16, 17 and 18 for your
convenience. We can make other arrangements if needed. I retain all renewal
rights to the seats and they are not refundable. To prevent any problems,
misunderstandings or bad feelings, only cash or certified check is
acceptable.
If anyone is interested, please contact me off list.
Thanks,
Fred
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Roland Wilhelmy" <rwil@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Steven Tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Thu, 8 May 2003 21:35:56 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure, another chapter
That's normal, especially when running with a 180 +
thermostat. Leave an air gap of about an inch and a
half from the neck of the radiator cap ... this will
reduce antifreeze overflow on shutdown.
Alan
--- Jim Wood <jwood_kc@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Last night I replaced the original rebuild oil with
> Castrol 20-50. I could see an immediate increase of
> about 10 lbs pressure. 50 at idle when cold, and 20
> at idle when hot. When I returned home to the
> garage, feeling pretty good about the improved oil
> pressure, I was surprised to find a pool of
> antifreeze
> quickly accumulating under the radiator.
>
> The water temp climbed to about 190 while I was out,
> and I am wondering if the radiator was too full when
> I
> started. any ideas?
>
> Thanks again for your continued support.
>
> Jim Wood
> '67 BJ8
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Roland Wilhelmy" <rwil@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Steven Tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Thu, 8 May 2003 22:12:42 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure
I must applaud the fact that you finally took that
final step out of the Stone age! I was actually
suprised you hadn't done this earlier considering your
car seems to have one of the most advanced set ups for
a healey out there....
Cheers,
Alan
--- Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au> wrote:
> Hi David,
>
> I used to use a Ryco 'felt' filter element - R206VB
> (rather than the paper
> R236P element) in the original Healey oilf filter
> canister. I don't know
> what brand/ part numbers you used - but RYCO has the
> market share here in
> Australia.
>
> Aside from original appearance - the advantage of
> the original old canister
> arrangement was that it had a felt element available
> - which filters down to
> a much smaller size (in microns) than a paper
> element. I can't remember the
> numbers now - but there is actually quite a large
> diffference in the size
> (in microns) that the felt element R206VB would
> filter - compared to the
> paper element R236P - and thats why RYCO made 2
> different elements for the
> same filter.
>
> So when RYCO discontinued manufacturing the felt
> element R206VB - and these
> felt elements were getting harder/ impossible to
> find - I started to look at
> the options. If I was going to get a paper element -
> instead of felt - why
> not just get a modern disposeable setup?
>
> It is the first time in over 20 years of healeys
> ownership that I have
> changed from the original canister with element to a
> modern spin off
> 'allinone' type.
>
> During the rebuild of my car in 1998, I looked at
> the various adaptor
> blocks, and the spin off filters that they used.
>
> I finally fitted a spinoff adaptor, that uses a
> modern Ryco Z10/ Z89A
> spinoff type filter, with the anti drain back
> valve. The Z10/ Z89A is the
> same filter as used by the 5.0 litre V8 AU Ford
> falcon, 4.7 litre Jeep
> Cherokee, most 1990s Audis and most 1990s Volvos).
> These are all reasonably
> high performance engines; all reasonably common in
> Australia.
>
> I got my adaptor for the engine block from the
> 'Healey Factory' in
> Melbourne - and the elements are available at most
> auto parts outlets - and
> a range of brands etc are available. I'm sure there
> are numerous other
> alternatives out there.
>
> The original canister system was always a pain - if
> you didn't get
> everything assembled perfectly - you got leaks from
> the canister (and i
> never found a source for the rubber O ring if you
> did accidentally crimp the
> O ring) - and it was just such a messy and time
> consuming job - I dreaded
> having to do it the scheduled twice a year. I really
> hated doing it from
> under the car - the only way I found to do it
> properly was to pull the whole
> thing off the engine block, clean it, degrease &
> blow out, and remove &
> refit the element on the bench - make a new gasket;
> reassemble and then bolt
> it back onto the engine block.
>
> As there was now no compelling technical reason (for
> me) to stay with an
> original canister (ie no felt element for better
> filtration) - why bother
> with the grief associated with using/ changing the
> original one? So I went
> for the modern easy, never leaks, cheaper
> alternative.
>
> I now change my oil filter regularly (every 6 months
> on the button!),
> because it only takes a few minutes, and I don't
> have to grovel around on
> the garage floor under the car getting dripped on!
>
> Chris
> ______________________________________
>
> Chris Dimmock
> Sydney Australia
>
> http://www.myaustinhealey.com
> ______________________________________
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "David Zuiderveld" <davzu29@earthlink.net>
> To: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>; "Jim
> Wood" <jwood_kc@yahoo.com>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2003 10:12 AM
> Subject: Re: Oil Pressure
>
>
> > Chirs, What make of filter do you are now use?
> >
> > DZ
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
> > To: "Jim Wood" <jwood_kc@yahoo.com>
> > Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2003 10:45 AM
> > Subject: Re: Oil Pressure
> >
> >
> > > Hi Jim,
> > >
> > > Did you use an 'oil additive'?
> > >
> > > I experienced almost exactly what you are
> describing about 7 or 8 years
> > ago,
> > > but not after an engine rebuild - after a
> normal oil and filter change.
> > I
> > > had added a bottle of some 'super duper you
> beaut oil additive'.
> Pressure
> > > was fine before I changed the oil, and fine
> after I changed it and
> started
> > > the engine up - just as you described. Then
> after I drove it about 4 or
> 5
> > > miles the oil pressure dropped to about 10 lbs
> at idle - and didn't go
> > over
> > > 30 .
> > >
> > > I pulled the (new) oil filter which had now been
> on the car less than 1
> > > hour - the stock Healey 'felt one' - and it was
> full of this
> > bloodyadditive.
> > > The additive - which had 'solid' coppery looking
> bits in it had blocked
> > the
> > > oil filter!
> > >
> > > I drained the oil, bought more oil and a new
> filter, threw the additive
> in
> > > the garbage bin, and the problem went away back
> to 30 - 40 at idle, 60
> at
> > > driving.
> > >
> > > Beware snakeoil additives - especially those
> with solids -
> > > teflon/lead/copper/ blah blah metal coating
> whatever.
> > >
> > > In terms of engine oil, I have found the best
> results from penrite HPR50
> > > (peak of Sydney summer) and HPR40 (rest of the
> time).
> > >
> > > If you used an additive Jim - I suspect the
> additive has blocked the
> > > filter - change the oil and the filter - and see
> if the problem goes
> away.
> > >
> > > Best regards
> > >
> > > Chris
> > > ______________________________________
> > >
> > > Chris Dimmock
> > > Sydney Australia
> > >
> > > http://www.myaustinhealey.com
> > > ______________________________________
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Jim Wood" <jwood_kc@yahoo.com>
> > > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2003 12:00 AM
>
=== message truncated ===
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From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: "Roland Wilhelmy" <rwil@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Steven Tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Thu, 8 May 2003 19:17:34 -0700
Subject: RE: BODY TAG?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of ynotink
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2003 8:47 PM
To: BJ8Healeys
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: BODY TAG?
That sounds reasonable to me. My early BN1 is from batch number 4407 and
body
number 554. Any later 100s would have had a higher batch number. If they
started
the batch numbering series again when they started 100-6 production that
would
explain the lower batch number (3001) and the larger body number (9494).
In that case the tag is incorrect for a BN1 or BN2. I guess the only option
left
would be to check the numbers on the back of the cockpit moulding pieces,
the
edge of the bonnet, or the boot lid prop rod bracket. If these pieces are
original they will bear the original body number for the car. BMIHT will be
able
to give you a Heritage certificate based on that information.
If you have the body number the 100 register can tell you the probable batch
number.
Bill Lawrence
BJ8Healeys wrote:
> It's probably for a 100-6. According to Clausager (page 88), the Mark 1
body
> tags also had the model type indicated on the body plate between the
batch
> and body numbers (e.g., 3039 BN7 7268). This later pattern carried
through
> to the end of BJ8 production.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666 (3223 BJ8 81544)
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC USA
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: I Erbs
> To: BJ8Healeys
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2003 12:15 AM
> Subject: RE: BODY TAG?
>
> Anyone out there know if the tags are for a MKI or a 100-6 body?
> 3001
> 9494
> I Erbs
> It could be a MKI 3000
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of BJ8Healeys
> Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2003 5:21 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: BODY TAG?
>
> Hello, Ira -
> 3001 is the "batch" number. A series of bodies had this same number.
> 9494 would be the specific body number of your car, and is unique to
that
> chassis.
>
> BMIHT can tell you the original VIN that belonged to that body plate,
and
> it
> is the numbers off the body plate that you should give to BMIHT.
>
> If you give them the engine number, they will give you back a
certificate
> for
> the car that originally had that engine installed.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC USA
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: I Erbs
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2003 6:31 PM
> Subject: BODY TAG?
>
> I'm going to be applying to Heritgae trust to try and get the original
> VIN
> for my car. I know the Engine Trans are donors from another car and
they
> can
> trace the engine # and I can use that, but on my firewall is a tag
with
>
> 3001
> 9494
>
> I believe this tag was on the the car whe I bought it, then I
installedd
> the
> engine and trans from another car.
> Can anyone tell me what it stands for?
>
> Thanks in Advance,
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From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: "Roland Wilhelmy" <rwil@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Steven Tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Thu, 8 May 2003 21:00:05 -0700
Subject: more on body tags
3001
9494
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From "John" <john4 at attbi.com>
From: "Roland Wilhelmy" <rwil@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Steven Tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Thu, 8 May 2003 17:11:17 -0700
Subject: Golden GAte AHC--event alert
MARIN TOUR SATURDAY MAY 10
A drive through Western Marin County's San Geronimo Valley and the Point Reyes
National Seashore starts Saturday May 10 at 11 AM.
The trip will go north up Sir Francis Drake Blvd. through San
Anselmo, Kentfield, Ross and Fairfax. The tour will head over White's Hill
into the San Geronimo Valley, and then down a two-lane western Marin backroad
through redwood forests, gently rolling hills and pristine farmland past
historic villages of San Geronimo, Forest Knolls, Lagunitas, Olima and Point
Reyes Station.
Before reaching the seashore, the tour will stop for a 30 Minute break
at Samuel P. Taylor State Park.
At the Pacific Ocean the tour will visit historic Point Reyes
Station, then proceed along Tomales Bay to Inverness and the Point Reyes
National Seashore.
There will a picnic stop at the Drake's Bay/Point Reyes Lighthouse so
bring along food and drink. Those who wish to do so may take a 5 minute
park-provided shuttle to the Point Reyes Lighthouse.
This segment of the trip will last 90 minutes, including our stop in
the Redwoods and visit to Point Reyes Village. It will be another 20-30
minutes to historic Drake's Bay. The trip will end at Drake's Bay, and those
on the tour can return to the Bay Area via Highway 1 through Bolinas and
Stinson Beach and over the hill to Mill Valley or eastbound on the same Sir
Francis Drake Blvd.
The tour starts in the parking lot of the Larkspur Ferry Terminal.
Arrival time is between 10:30 AM and 11 AM. The tour departs promptly at 11
AM.
Directions: The Larkspur Golden Gate Ferry Terminal is located in
southern Marin, just off of Hwy 101 (the south side) at Sir Francis Drake
Blvd. near Larkspur Landing Shopping Center.
For more information contact Randy Harris at (510) 339-1414 or by
email at coop1@rcn.com
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From MeditionM at netscape.net
From: "Roland Wilhelmy" <rwil@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Steven Tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Fri, 09 May 2003 01:18:13 -0400
Subject: Pipe threads
Don't want to contaminate the brake fluid
Ken Mason
BJ7 in work
__________________________________________________________________
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From "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe at earthlink.net>
From: Fred Wescoe
To: British-cars
Date: Thu, 8 May 2003 22:04:48 -0400
Subject: Indy 500 Tickets
I posted a note to the list on April 30 on Indy 500 tickets and many
responded. Things have changed a bit and to that end, I am reposting for
anyone interested.
I have 2 sets of 2 seats to the Indianapolis 500, May 25, 2003 that I will not
be using this year . Specifically, they are in the Paddock Box # 16, Row S,
seat 9 and 10. The second set is Paddock Box # 16, Row T, seat 9 and 10.
These seats are at the start/finish line, across from the pits, the
ceremonies, the 500 Queens seats, the scoring tower and the winners circle.
All the celebrities are interviewed here and so on. This is where Paul Page
does his thing and that "private" sings "Back Home Again In Indiana". As you
can see, these seats are about 20 rows from the fence and track surface. You
can see into turn #1 and the exit of turn # 4 and of course all of the pits.
Just so you know, you are able to "feel" the cars as they run and as an
important aside, you will certainly "hear" the cars.
I have owned these seats for more than 30 years and have another set of seats
just above these. The face value of the seats is $85.00. I could sell the
seats at the track for a great deal more. All I am asking for, from a member
of the list, is the face value. Therefore, $170 per set. I will sell them
only in sets of 2.
I will be at the BGAHC meet in Georgetown, May 16, 17 and 18 for anyone's
convenience. We can make other arrangements if needed. I retain all renewal
rights to the seats and they are not refundable. To prevent any problems or
hard feelings, only cash or certified check is acceptable.
If anyone is interested, contact me off list.
Thanks,
Fred
'63 BJ7
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Fred Wescoe
To: British-cars
Date: Fri, 9 May 2003 02:32:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Pipe threads
In general brake pipe fittings are designed work
without dope or tape... or any other type of sealer.
Your fittings should seal completely without the aid
of any type of sealer - this is for your own safety as
you may get a false sense of safety if a sealant is
working to seal the system and then over time wears
out... you then run out of brake fluid, and then ...
I'll spare you the sordid details.
Your brake pipes should seal with an easy but slight
firm twist of the wrench - 25 to 30 ft lbs of torque
should be more than enough.
If your system is still leaking after that... that
means you may have a mismatch between your piping (did
you buy new pipes?) and union, as there are a couple
different brake union seat shapes floating around...
although for the most part everything should work and
seat properly.
You won't contaminate your brake fluid if your brake
system is properly configured.
Good Luck,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- MeditionM@netscape.net wrote:
> Healey folks
> Regarding the pipe threads on the five-way in the
> brake lines....
> Is this connection made dry, with thread dope,
> teflon tape....?
> If dope, what dope
>
> Don't want to contaminate the brake fluid
> Ken Mason
> BJ7 in work
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Fred Wescoe
To: British-cars
Date: Fri, 9 May 2003 08:01:21 EDT
Subject: BCW rallye & picnic June 1st update
UPDATED PAGE!
The Second Annual celebration of British Car Week in Southern Maryland will
take place at Little Cove Farm in Saint Leonard, MD.on Sunday, June 1st,
2003. We again invite the entire British Car community to take a pleasant
drive in the lovely Southern Maryland countryside and join us for a relaxed,
free-form picnic with other LBC (Little British Car) owners and their
families. And on your way down you're also welcome to participate in "The
Great Patuxent Valley Rallye" which will start that morning near Upper
Marlboro, MD. and end at the farm front gate.
The main event is a picnic at Little Cove Farm, and all are invited to pack
family and/or pets aboard, bring whatever they may want to eat, drink and
play with, and come out for a day of fun and fellowship with others who enjoy
driving and owning vintage vehicles. This year we will be setting up large
tents and picnic tables to provide shade and comfortable seating. We'll also
have more to do and enjoy: Live music ("Fiddler Miriam" O'Conner and the Joe
Curta Band), hayrides, nature walks, a beekeeper's exhibit, etc. If you're
coming directly to the picnic, arrive anytime after 10:00 A.M.
The rallye is of the "Observation" type--there are no distances to measure,
average speeds to maintain or the like. Rather, you'll be given a set of
simple driving instructions and asked to supply answers to questions relating
to what you will see along the 50-mile course. All you need to bring is a
pencil and a sense of humor--you can even run it without a navigator, but
having someone to help you find the answers will be more fun. Rallye Drivers
can get an early start any time after 9:30 AM-last car out by 10:15 AM-just
show up at the Marlboro Crossing Shopping Center in front of the Giant
Store-The Rallye will take about 1-1/2 hours to run on rural roads along the
shores of the Patuxent River in Southern Maryland's lovely countryside. The
course ends at our farm and awards will be presented at the picnic during the
afternoon.
Last year we had about 65 cars--This year we are expecting many more, and you
can help make it so: Pass the word along to your friends and fellow car-club
members, and have this event placed on your club's calendar and in its
newsletter: The web address for this page is: <A
HREF="http://www.chesapeake.net/%7Eoritt/%20";>www.chesapeake.net/~oritt/ </A>
TO REACH THE PICNIC: Saint Leonard, MD, is about midway between Prince
Frederick and Solomons Island on Route 4 (less than an hour from the Capital
Beltway or Annapolis). Turn west off of Route 4 at Parran Road, go about 1
mile to a T-intersection at Mackall Road, turn left and go 2 miles to Garrity
Road, turn left and go 1/4 mile to Little Cove Farm at 2455 Garrity Road --
Just follow the British flags!
TO REACH THE RALLYE: From Route 4 and US 301 (near Upper Marlboro) go south
on 301 about 1/10 mile and enter the Giant Supermarket parking lot (east side
of 301). The Driver's Meeting will commence at 10:00 AM and cars will start
immediately thereafter. Driving the rallye will take about an hour and a half
and the course ends at the farm -- We guarantee that you can't get lost!
We look forward to seeing you--Michael and Mary Oritt. For further
information email us at: <A HREF="http:///";>awgertoo@aol.com</A><A
HREF="http://www.chesapeake.net/~oritt/contactus.htm";> </A>
This page was updated May 7th - No further updates are expected, and this
event will happen RAIN OR SHINE
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From Drtrite at aol.com
From: Fred Wescoe
To: British-cars
Date: Fri, 9 May 2003 08:30:54 EDT
Subject: Re: Pipe threads
<< Regarding the pipe threads on the five-way in the brake lines....
Is this connection made dry, with thread dope, teflon tape....?
If dope, what dope
>>
Should be a dry seal pipe thread. British and American pipe threads are NOT
the same pitch. If you used American parts they will go together, but will
not seal.
Don
NTAHC
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From William Moyer <William.Moyer at millersville.edu>
From: Fred Wescoe
To: British-cars
Date: Fri, 9 May 2003 10:10:47 -0400
Subject: Healey media sighting
Bill Moyer, BJ7
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: Fred Wescoe
To: British-cars
Date: Fri, 9 May 2003 11:43:37 EDT
Subject: Panel lamps
Anyone have the modern US number for the high beam indicator lamp?
Manual says they are 2.2w Lucas 4732.
NAPA (or equivalent) sez: ??
TIA,
Dick Hosmer
BT7L18556
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From "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson at thicko.com>
From: Fred Wescoe
To: British-cars
Date: Fri, 9 May 2003 10:47:45 -0500
Subject: Just in Time video
With the recent passing of my friend Roger Menadue, I have been contacted by
a number of folks interested in having the video 'Just In Time' back "in
print".
http://www.thicko.com/videos.htm
Since technology marches on... I will re-issue this in DVD format. It's not
likely I'll do PAL for some of our European folks.. as the cost of the
transfer gets to be prohibitive... but an NTSC DVD should play fine in your
computer. Please disregard the $ and format info on that page on thicko.com,
as I don't have time right now to update it.
At this point, I'm considering making a run of 25... I could certainly do
more if there's enough interest. The cost each will be $25 plus shipping,
and I take Paypal or personal checks. All proceeds (not just profit) goes to
memorial funds in Geoff Healey and Roger Menadue's name. (read... this costs
me money out of pocket everytime I do it... which is small payment, in my
mind, for the the friendships I had with these two great individuals of
automotive history.)
What you should expect upon viewing is a remarkable look at an automotive
archeological dig of one of the first Austin Healey Special Test cars. It
was filmed on hi-8 video format, so it shows its age, quality wise. It also
contains some great Healey family home movie footage of the car, given to me
to use with permission by Geoff. I remember being REAL pissed off when some
club dickhead reviewed it for the magazine Chatter and compared it
(unfavorably of course)to Francis Ford Coppala's "Tucker". (Remind me to
club him like a baby seal..). Considering Coppala's budget was
$14,000,000.00 and mine was $50... enough said.
Please contact me directly at wsthompson@thicko.com to pre-order... so I can
get a better handle on quantities to dupe. Thanks.
WST
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: Fred Wescoe
To: British-cars
Date: Fri, 9 May 2003 12:06:21 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey media sighting
<< For those of us who collect such things, my latest media sighting is in the
X-Men 2 movie. Probably the same car as was seen briefly in the first X-Men
movie. The garage at the school for young mutants has a large selection of
nice cars and among them is a red Healey. You see the car from the rear in
the first movie and the front in the second film. Probably a total of 3
seconds, but its there.
Bill Moyer, BJ7 >>
I just watched the first X-Men movie...It's an MGA. :(
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From "john" <john.metcalfe3 at ntlworld.com>
From: Fred Wescoe
To: British-cars
Date: Fri, 9 May 2003 09:24:05 -0700 (Pacific Daylight Time)
Subject: Cracked Cylinder Head
I had the head tested and there are other cracks which I did not notice were
there. So I will be retiring this one and investing in a new one.
Once again thanks to all
John Metcalfe
BN4 BT7
I could do with some sound advice from the list I am working on a
restoration of a BT7 located in the UK
I have a cylinder head with a crack from the valve seating to the cooling
cavity is this worth repairing or should the unit be replaced. If it can be
repaired what is the best way to do it.
Also what is involved in converting this head to use unleaded fuel and is it
worth doing.
All help and advice gratefully accepted
John Metcalfe
BN4 BT7
.
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of
IMSTP.gif]
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From "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson at thicko.com>
From: Fred Wescoe
To: British-cars
Date: Fri, 9 May 2003 11:45:15 -0500
Subject: Video address
I do NOT have the PO box anymore...
so
If you'd like to mail a check...
Wm. Severin Thompson
20560 W. Woodland Ave.
Lake Villa, IL 60046
or use Paypal
wsthompson@thicko.com
Thanks
WST
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From Rohan Marr <rohan at marketocracy.com>
From: Fred Wescoe
To: British-cars
Date: Fri, 9 May 2003 10:08:58 -0700
Subject: Re: Healey media sighting
> I just watched the first X-Men movie...It's an MGA. :(
>
I have to agree I have the DVD of X1 and froze it on the frame with the
suspected Healey and came to the conclusion it is an MGA. However
having just seen the X2 movie it is definitely a Healey with a vertical
grill so a late 6 cylinder (well later than my Longbridge anyway).
Looks like they tried to go for consistency with a red car ... doesn't
matter what kind of red car.
Rohan
*******************************
Rohan Marr
('56 Longbridge BN4-O/28579)
aka 'Helouise'
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From "IRA ERBS" <IErbs at vansd.org>
From: Fred Wescoe
To: British-cars
Date: Fri, 09 May 2003 10:23:11 -0700
Subject: picture of lucas switch hiiden setting
I always suspected this setting existed, now I have proof,
I ERBS
Ft Vancouver HS
5700 E. 18th
Vancouver,WA 98861
360.313.4000
"Your assumptions are your windows on the world. Scrub
them off every once in a while, or the light won't come
in."
- Isaac Asimov
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From "Peter C." <nosimport at mailbag.com>
From: Fred Wescoe
To: British-cars
Date: Fri, 09 May 2003 13:33:10 -0500
Subject: Lever shock core, buying..
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From Don Manning <manningbb at shaw.ca>
From: Fred Wescoe
To: British-cars
Date: Fri, 09 May 2003 11:56:51 -0700
Subject: RE: Healey media sighting
The car you saw is my BN7. A vehicle sourcing company was looking for a
Red Healey with chrome wires, mine was available, and it fit their
needs. It was not used in the first movie.
Cheers!
Don Manning
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: Fred Wescoe
To: British-cars
Date: Fri, 9 May 2003 15:45:36 EDT
Subject: Re: Just in Time video
I have this directly several times and it keeps getting returned.
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
IF there are attached files and you are unable to open please use.
<A HREF="http://www.stuffit.com/expander/";>StuffIt Expander: Unzip zip,
access StuffIt filb&</A>
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: Fred Wescoe
To: British-cars
Date: Fri, 09 May 2003 12:27:39 -0600
Subject: Re: Panel lamps
If the lamp is a miniature screw base, try Radio Shack #272-1127, #52
bulb. For a brighter bulb try R.S. #272-1134, #1487. The numbers 52 &
1487 should be standard numbers which you can cross reference to NAPA or
somewhere.
Dave Russell
BN2
RAHosmer@aol.com wrote:
> Hi,
>
> Anyone have the modern US number for the high beam indicator lamp?
> Manual says they are 2.2w Lucas 4732.
> NAPA (or equivalent) sez: ??
>
> TIA,
>
> Dick Hosmer
> BT7L18556
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: Fred Wescoe
To: British-cars
Date: Fri, 9 May 2003 16:29:51 -0400
Subject: Re: Pipe threads
I don't think there is a threaded connection on my BJ8 that I don't use teflon
tape on, including the brake lines. I use it both as an anti-leak method, as
well as to ensure the parts won't be frozen together the next time I need to
remove them.
Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
----- Original Message -----
From: MeditionM@netscape.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Friday, May 09, 2003 1:18 AM
Subject: Pipe threads
Healey folks
Regarding the pipe threads on the five-way in the brake lines....
Is this connection made dry, with thread dope, teflon tape....?
If dope, what dope
Don't want to contaminate the brake fluid
Ken Mason
BJ7 in work
__________________________________________________________________
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From Joel Seguine <jseguine at umich.edu>
From: Fred Wescoe
To: British-cars
Date: Fri, 09 May 2003 17:05:42 -0400
Subject: Weber Trade
I'm looking to trade for an equally serviceable 40DCOE. If you're
interested, e-mail a reply with a phone number and I'll call so we can
discuss it, or give me some particulars in your message.
Thanks.
--
Joel Seguine
734-730-3410
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: Fred Wescoe
To: British-cars
Date: Fri, 09 May 2003 17:47:33 -0400
Subject: Re: Video address
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson@thicko.com>
To: "Healey list Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Spridget List"
<spridgets@autox.team.net>; "Team-Thicko@Autox.Team.Net"
<team-thicko@autox.team.net>; "Vintage-Race@Autox.Team.Net"
<vintage-race@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 09, 2003 12:45 PM
Subject: Video address
| To all,
|
| I do NOT have the PO box anymore...
|
| so
|
| If you'd like to mail a check...
|
| Wm. Severin Thompson
| 20560 W. Woodland Ave.
| Lake Villa, IL 60046
|
| or use Paypal
|
| wsthompson@thicko.com
|
| Thanks
|
| WST
|
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From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: Fred Wescoe
To: British-cars
Date: Fri, 9 May 2003 18:48:30 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Front wheel hub/disc
Subject : RE: Disk rotor thickness
>From : "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
Date : Mon, 17 Jun 2002 10:55:15 -0400
We are getting a little confused here. All 3000's up to BJ8 Phase 2 used a
rotor that was 0.375"
thick to start and the factory recommendation is that the minimum thickness,
after grinding,
should be 0.335" or more. In other words no more than 0.040"
in total should be removed.
The later MkIII cars started with 0.500" rotors; the same brake as was used on
early TR6s.
Although the minimum thickness does not seem to show up in the Healey Manual
most Triumph and
Girling literature indicates that the minimum thickness for these discs is
0.450" i.e. no more
than 0.050" should be removed in total.
I think that you can get away with a bit more on the later rotors but...should
you have a problem
and get taken to task over a brake failure I wouldn't like to bet on your
chances if it could be
proven that you knew that the rotors were machined below the recommended
minimum.
--Michael Salter www.precisionsportscar.com
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--- "Ph.J.Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl> wrote: << Listers, ....... I
also need the minimum
thickness of the brake discs. I'm sure I saw that figure somewhere, but can't
remember where....
Thanks Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands 1964 BJ8 29432 >>
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
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From Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
From: Fred Wescoe
To: British-cars
Date: Fri, 9 May 2003 17:07:44 -0700
Subject: flyweel 1/4 timing mark
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From Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
From: Fred Wescoe
To: British-cars
Date: Fri, 9 May 2003 17:19:38 -0700
Subject: dist. drive dog bush
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From David Woerpel <dwoerpel at wi.net>
From: Fred Wescoe
To: British-cars
Date: Fri, 09 May 2003 21:16:25 -0500
Subject: sightings; Racine WI
These belong to any listers????
Dave
59 :{)
59 MGA 1500
Burlington WI
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: Fred Wescoe
To: British-cars
Date: Fri, 09 May 2003 20:52:55 -0600
Subject: Re: dist. drive dog bush
This is a hard part to find. The AH number is 1K114. Creck with Mike
Salter at info@precisionsportscar.com or maybe Hemphill at
1-800-943-2539. Maybe they can help.
Dave Russell
Jonathan and Carole Quandt wrote:
> I am having trouble finding the steel bushing that is pressed into the
> block on a 100-4 which holds the tip of the dist.drive dog. Does anyone
> have one on the shelf or know of a domestic source ? O.D 1-1/16",
> tapered end, hole in side for set screw thanx jonathan
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From BANJOJOHN at aol.com
From: Fred Wescoe
To: British-cars
Date: Fri, 9 May 2003 23:19:30 EDT
Subject: Re: Silicon clutch/brake fluid
John O'Brien
'61 bugeye
'65 BJ8
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: Fred Wescoe
To: British-cars
Date: Fri, 9 May 2003 23:34:43 -0700
Subject: Tapered strip under seat rails
The other day I replied to someone about making tapered wood strips to replace
the ones under the seat rails.
I should have mentioned that if doing that it will be necessary to add longer
studs to the rails to mount them on the floor. Since I had to replace several
studs due to stripped threads, that was of no particular issue for me.
I apologize if there was any confusion.
Keith Pennell
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From "Esko & Megan Cate" <enmcate at attbi.com>
From: Fred Wescoe
To: British-cars
Date: Fri, 9 May 2003 20:56:17 -0700
Subject: Convertible top
Esko
BJ&
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From tom mitchell <3000mk3 at bighealey.org>
From: Fred Wescoe
To: British-cars
Date: Sat, 10 May 2003 00:14:51 -0400
Subject: Re: Tapered strip under seat rails
Anyway I cheated and used those long or thick nuts, I'm not quite sure what
the are called, a turnbuckle? I believe you usually see going diagonally on
screens doors to tighten them?
I had to replace a couple of my rail studs, so I had two choices. Longer
studs or this turnbuckle. I also wanted to seal out the water from the
threads. So after careful measuring and trimming to size, I was able to use
bolts with washers from below, with of course some anti-seize. So hopefully
no rust on the threads. OK OK, maybe not as much rust. Anyway it looks nice
and clean, I even painted over them to match the under-floors to help
sealing. I figured if needed that the paint (washer stays in play, it's NBD
to repaint) would be easier to break free, then rust.
___________ ____________
(_______ \_______________/ ______ )
(_____ Tom Mitchell ____)
(SouthEast Michigan Austin Healey Club)
( mailto: tommitchell@bighealey.org )
At 11:34 PM 5/9/2003 -0700, Keith Pennell wrote:
>Listers,
>
>The other day I replied to someone about making tapered wood strips to replace
>the ones under the seat rails.
>
>I should have mentioned that if doing that it will be necessary to add longer
>studs to the rails to mount them on the floor. Since I had to replace several
>studs due to stripped threads, that was of no particular issue for me.
>
>I apologize if there was any confusion.
>
>Keith Pennell
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: Fred Wescoe
To: British-cars
Date: Sat, 10 May 2003 14:49:23 +1000
Subject: Re: oil pressure
I use Penrite HRP-40 and its due for an oil change. This engine has done
over 30 competition events, and over 10,000 miles in the past 5 years since
its rebuild - so its well run in.
Just thought that may help.
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steven Tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 09, 2003 4:26 AM
Subject: re: oil pressure
> Hi on my 58bn4 my oil pressure is 55 at start up and 45 to 55 running at
4200 and hot at idle a low 20lbs. To me 20lbs is low. I just recieved my new
teck talk book from Norman Nock (great book) and I`am going to change
out my rocker arm asembly. I know this is going to help bring up my pressure
the way the oil was pissing out of top of my rocker arms.Thank Steve 100-6
also Mike at BCS Thanks for your help
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: Fred Wescoe
To: British-cars
Date: Fri, 09 May 2003 22:46:46 -0600
Subject: Re: more on body tags
Bill Lawrence
I Erbs wrote:
> P375 is stamped on the plate of the boot lid stay
> So where else can I look for #s stamped? I can't locate the email that
> mentioned other locations
> TIA
> Ira
>
> 3001
> 9494
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: Fred Wescoe
To: British-cars
Date: Sat, 10 May 2003 01:10:42 -0700
Subject: Re: Tapered strip under seat rails
But only the middle and front studs.
Keith again
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: Fred Wescoe
To: British-cars
Date: Sat, 10 May 2003 01:23:34 -0700
Subject: Re: Trafficator
Thanks for the replay but you are too late!!!
I went out to the garage and right away found the tab you spoke of on the
thin piece. I did not have to bend it. Rotated the thin piece around to
expose the screw heads as you said. Removed the screws and voila!
The first terminal screw fell inside. Tweezers (very helpful all the way
through) was able to put it back in. From then on I used a thin metal plate
to hold the screws in the holes. It all went together quite easily! Of
course, once all four leads were on and tightened I had to remove them to
put the thin brass ring back in position!!! :)
Your tip on the thin plate rotation made things go beautifully!!! You guys
should tackle this if you need to replace the traf har!
Thanks a million
Keith
> Keith,
>
> Are you talking about removing it from the car, or disassembly of the unit
> itself so as to restore it? If you just want to put in a new harness, you
> won't have to take the unit apart if, and only if you are very careful.
>
> The first thing you will have to do is to remove the three grub screws
from
> the back of the unit and pull it away from the metal stator tube. The
tricky
> part now is that when you remove the 4 nuts that hold the wire leads to
the
> back of the trafficator, the brass contact pieces inside may fall away
inside
> the unit and then the only option is to take the thing apart. If as you
> loosen each lead (nut) on the back side you move the trafficator lever to
a
> position to hold the contact in place, it won't fall out. This should be
> obvious when you are looking at the back of the trafficator and move the
> lever either side of center you will see that it lines up with each three
of
> the nuts holding the wire leads.
>
> It may look like it will stay in place but when you try to put the new
lead
> on you may push the contact into the unit itself. You then attach the new
> lead replacing the small nut and washer and move on to the next contact
again
> moving the lever so it lines up the nut you are removing. Confused yet.
It
> is a three position lever so that will take care of three of the leads and
> the forth one won't be a problem since it is a long screw and won't be
able
> to back out.
>
> If you disassemble the entire unit there are a lot of little parts so you
> might want to disassemble it in a large cardboard box so as not to loose
any
> small bits. Remember how it came apart since it goes together the same
way,
> LOL. It should come apart easily so don't force anything. Or better yet,
if
> you get frustrated or are so inclined box the thing up and send it to me
and
> I'll make it like new. It will only cost you the shipping each way and a
> beer or two at the next Healey meet we're at together.
>
> Good luck.
>
> Curt
>
> In a message dated 5/9/03 8:28:48 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
pennell@whro.net
> writes:
>
> << Curt,
>
> I found your reply to traf disassembly in the archives. Tomorrow I plan
to
> disassemble friend's to install new har. Any other tips to pass along?
>
> Keith Pennell >>
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From "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl>
From: Fred Wescoe
To: British-cars
Date: Sat, 10 May 2003 11:10:13 +0200
Subject: Re: Front wheel hub/disc
Thanks very much for your help. As a matter of fact a lister from New
Zealand pointed out to me that the minimum thickness is shown in the
Workshop Manual. Presently I don't have the message nor the manual at hand,
but I do remember the minimum shown there is in the region of 8.5 mm or
0.345 inches. Presently my discs are nearly 11 mm thick and very rusted
after 11 years in a damp garage, so I have ample material available to clean
up. That is, when I follow the manual and not the Girling litterature
Michael refers to....
Thanks again and kind regards,
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
1964 BJ8 29432
----- Original Message -----
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "Ph.J.Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>; "Healey users website"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 10, 2003 12:48 AM
Subject: Re: Front wheel hub/disc
> Hi Jack; From archives, I found the following comments by Michael Salter.
They should do the
> trick.
> --Scott Morris
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------
>
> Subject : RE: Disk rotor thickness
> From : "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
> Date : Mon, 17 Jun 2002 10:55:15 -0400
> We are getting a little confused here. All 3000's up to BJ8 Phase 2 used
a rotor that was 0.375"
> thick to start and the factory recommendation is that the minimum
thickness, after grinding,
> should be 0.335" or more. In other words no more than 0.040"
> in total should be removed.
>
> The later MkIII cars started with 0.500" rotors; the same brake as was
used on early TR6s.
> Although the minimum thickness does not seem to show up in the Healey
Manual most Triumph and
> Girling literature indicates that the minimum thickness for these discs is
0.450" i.e. no more
> than 0.050" should be removed in total.
>
> I think that you can get away with a bit more on the later rotors
but...should you have a problem
> and get taken to task over a brake failure I wouldn't like to bet on your
chances if it could be
> proven that you knew that the rotors were machined below the recommended
minimum.
>
> --Michael Salter www.precisionsportscar.com
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: Fred Wescoe
To: British-cars
Date: Sat, 10 May 2003 06:06:29 -0500
Subject: NO HEALEY CONTENT DELETE IF YOU WANT (but please read it first)
Some of you may remember me, Don Yarber, the guy with the BN7 that I sold.
Some of you may remember that I was (am) involved heavily in the writing
world.
My first novel, "Bodies and Beaches" will be for sale soon. It is a self
published deal and I will be handling the sales from home. I am offering an
autographed copy (not that autographs mean a hoot, $1.50 and an autograph
will buy you a cup of coffee at "Cracker Barrel")
It doesn't have anything to do with cars. It is a private detective novel,
a throw back to the old "knock-em-down and drag-em-out" guys like Spillane
and Prather. I can't promise you will enjoy it, but I enjoyed writing it
and hope that some of my old friends on this list will be interested enough
to send me a check or money order for $7.95 to purchase it.
I will be selling the book for $7.95. That includes shipping it to you
Before you delete this, I promise to donate .50 (fifty cents) from each sale
to a list member to Mark for the continuation of this great list.
Please allow two weeks for delivery.
Thanks a bunch. Contact me off list for my address.
Don
BN7 (sold)
"Life is not measured by the breaths we take but by the things that take our
breath away"
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Fred Wescoe
To: British-cars
Date: Sat, 10 May 2003 08:19:56 -0400
Subject: RE: Front wheel hub/disc
I think you have misunderstood the relevant information on "Minimum Disc
Thickness" The minimum disc thickness of .335in (8.51mm) referred to in
Section MMM7 of your Workshop Manual applies to cars fitted with the
earlier Girling 14 brakes. These brakes used 0.375 in thick rotors and
were discontinued at car number HBJ8 26705.
Your car HBJ8 29432 should be fitted with Girling 16 brakes. (The brake
model is cast on the outside of the caliper).
The Girling 16 brake used 0.500 (12.7mm) in thick rotors. The minimum
thickness for your rotors, assuming that the correct brakes are still
fitted to the car, is 0.450 in (11.4 mm). If yours are less than 11mm I
would recommend new rotors.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jaap Aeckerlin
Sent: 10-May-03 5:10 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net; J. Scott Morris
Subject: Re: Front wheel hub/disc
Scott,
Thanks very much for your help. As a matter of fact a lister from New
Zealand pointed out to me that the minimum thickness is shown in the
Workshop Manual. Presently I don't have the message nor the manual at
hand,
but I do remember the minimum shown there is in the region of 8.5 mm or
0.345 inches. Presently my discs are nearly 11 mm thick and very rusted
after 11 years in a damp garage, so I have ample material available to
clean
up. That is, when I follow the manual and not the Girling litterature
Michael refers to....
Thanks again and kind regards,
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
1964 BJ8 29432
----- Original Message -----
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "Ph.J.Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>; "Healey users website"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 10, 2003 12:48 AM
Subject: Re: Front wheel hub/disc
> Hi Jack; From archives, I found the following comments by Michael
Salter.
They should do the
> trick.
> --Scott Morris
>
------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
-----------------------
>
> Subject : RE: Disk rotor thickness
> From : "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
> Date : Mon, 17 Jun 2002 10:55:15 -0400
> We are getting a little confused here. All 3000's up to BJ8 Phase 2
used
a rotor that was 0.375"
> thick to start and the factory recommendation is that the minimum
thickness, after grinding,
> should be 0.335" or more. In other words no more than 0.040"
> in total should be removed.
>
> The later MkIII cars started with 0.500" rotors; the same brake as was
used on early TR6s.
> Although the minimum thickness does not seem to show up in the Healey
Manual most Triumph and
> Girling literature indicates that the minimum thickness for these
discs is
0.450" i.e. no more
> than 0.050" should be removed in total.
>
> I think that you can get away with a bit more on the later rotors
but...should you have a problem
> and get taken to task over a brake failure I wouldn't like to bet on
your
chances if it could be
> proven that you knew that the rotors were machined below the
recommended
minimum.
>
> --Michael Salter www.precisionsportscar.com
>
------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
------------------------
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From "Bob, Kim, Rob, Bandit and Pepper" <thewalkers at qwest.net>
From: Fred Wescoe
To: British-cars
Date: Sat, 10 May 2003 17:33:04 -0700
Subject: test - just delete it
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From "Ron Davies, DDS" <rdavies1 at cox.net>
From: Fred Wescoe
To: British-cars
Date: Sat, 10 May 2003 19:21:16 -0700
Subject: location/inspection of oil pressure relief valve
Ronald O. Davies
67 BJ8
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From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: Fred Wescoe
To: British-cars
Date: Sat, 10 May 2003 23:52:56 -0400
Subject: RE: location/inspection of oil pressure relief valve
HTH,
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Ron Davies, DDS
Sent: Saturday, May 10, 2003 10:21 PM
To: Healeys
Subject: location/inspection of oil pressure relief valve
I've been advised to check my oil pressure relief valve and spring on my 67
BJ8 since my oil pressure starts at 80lbs and stays there until full warmup.
I've looked at the M*** parts catalogue and can't tell where it's located on
the car.
Can someone give me a good description of location and possible pitfalls
involved in removing and checking it?
Thanks
Ronald O. Davies
67 BJ8
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From "Joh Polmans" <j.polmans at hetnet.nl>
From: Fred Wescoe
To: British-cars
Date: Sun, 11 May 2003 13:21:29 +0200
Subject: need help
I found out that the body of my 60BT7 is on the left rear side among 1 inch
lower than the right rear side of the body.
What will be wrong ??
If I look at the baxk of the car, you can see it very well that the car is
lower at the left left side.
How to loose this problem ??
Joh Polmans
the Netherlands
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From tom mitchell <3000mk3 at bighealey.org>
From: Fred Wescoe
To: British-cars
Date: Sun, 11 May 2003 09:41:45 -0400
Subject: Re: need help
Tom
At 01:21 PM 5/11/2003 +0200, Joh Polmans wrote:
>Listers,
>
>I found out that the body of my 60BT7 is on the left rear side among 1 inch
>lower than the right rear side of the body.
>What will be wrong ??
>If I look at the back of the car, you can see it very well that the car is
>lower at the left left side.
>
>How to loose this problem ??
>
>Joh Polmans
>the Netherlands
___________ ____________
(_______ \_______________/ ______ )
(_____ Tom Mitchell ____)
(SouthEast Michigan Austin Healey Club)
( mailto: tommitchell@bighealey.org )
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From Rob Molyneux <rwmolyneux at shaw.ca>
From: Fred Wescoe
To: British-cars
Date: Sun, 11 May 2003 09:24:28 -0500
Subject: 100 Chassis and Engine numbers
Chassis BN1L152456
Engine 1B231510
Les is now rebuilding the engine, and hopes to have the car on the road this
summer. Any information on the engine would be appreciated.
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From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Rob Molyneux" <rwmolyneux@shaw.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 11 May 2003 09:51:41 -0500
Subject: 100 Chassis and Engine numbers
> A friend purchased what he believes to be a 1953 100/4 way back in 1972.
At that time he understood that the engine had been replaced with one from a
later 100/4. With the numbers provided can anyone confirm this?
>
> Chassis BN1L152456
> Engine 1B231510
>
> Les is now rebuilding the engine, and hopes to have the car on the road
this summer. Any information on the engine would be appreciated.
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From "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
From: "Rob Molyneux" <rwmolyneux@shaw.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 11 May 2003 12:26:20 -0400
Subject: Re: need help
Tom
<
Ditto with my BJ8 Tom. Wonder if it has to do with the one inch change in
the rear suspension on the Phase 2 cars?
Scot
'66 BJ8
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From Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
From: "Rob Molyneux" <rwmolyneux@shaw.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 11 May 2003 10:07:22 -0700
Subject: Healey lists to port
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Rob Molyneux" <rwmolyneux@shaw.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 11 May 2003 12:25:49 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey lists to port
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From "Joh Polmans" <j.polmans at hetnet.nl>
From: "Rob Molyneux" <rwmolyneux@shaw.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 11 May 2003 20:15:39 +0200
Subject: need help 2
Joh
60 BT7
The Netherlands
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From Ronald Fine <ronfineesq at earthlink.net>
From: "Rob Molyneux" <rwmolyneux@shaw.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 11 May 2003 12:20:38 -0700
Subject: Installing points fuel pump
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From Ptuleysr at cs.com
From: "Rob Molyneux" <rwmolyneux@shaw.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 11 May 2003 15:16:07 EDT
Subject: spare wheel staple
Thanks,
Price
60BT7
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From "Ed Adams" <JE.Adams at worldnet.att.net>
From: Rob Molyneux <rwmolyneux@shaw.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sunday, May 11, 2003 10:55 AM
Subject: Re: 100 Chassis and Engine numbers
Please let him know that with his permission and cooperation, I'm very
interested in adding his car and it's particulars to the A-H 100 Registry
I'm managing. The data being collected includes - Owner & owner's address,
Contact info (e-mail
preferred), Model (BN-1or 2), Serial/chassis #, engine #, Body(five
digits) and Batch #s(four digits) (both on tag attached to the right side of
firewall and adjacent to the voltage regulator), Build date (if known),
colors - original (if known) & present. Basically, whatever is included on
the BMIHT certificate plus any changes/modifications that would help
identify the car or be of general interest in a report. Any history you may
have on the car -previous owners and addresses - would be most helpful as
well.
This is an independent Registry, not "owned" by any of the clubs, with the
goal of registering 'all' BN-1s & 2s, associated stray numbered parts and
cars known to have been written off, presently or previously owned by
members of any/all clubs or non-club members.
All standard privacy issues (generally and primarily Owner's name
address and contact info) observed. His name and address would only be
made available outside of this Register with his specific prior permission.
If you have other privacy issues, they too, can be accommodated.
Certain car data, only, may be shared with other Registries, with an
organized club, or with individuals on a case by case basis, where it might
be
helpful in understanding the history of the Marque or an individual car. It
is my intention to improve feedback and general responsiveness, from a
responsible Registry, to the Healey family of enthusiasts
Thank you, your cooperation will be greatly appreciated.
Ed Adams ( je.adams@att.net )
A-H 100 Registry
Member: AHCUSA, AHSTC, AHCA
BN-1L 227550 LeMans
(t) 570-945-3808
RR#1, Box 19
Dalton, PA 18414
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From Marty Filardi <marty_filardi at yahoo.com>
From: Rob Molyneux <rwmolyneux@shaw.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 11 May 2003 15:06:01 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: BJ8 distributor lubrication
__________________________________
The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo.
http://search.yahoo.com
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From "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson at thicko.com>
From: Judy Cull [mailto:vscda@iserv.net]
To: Rick Gurolnick; Carl Braun; Lowell Blossom; John Golanty;
Date: Sun, 11 May 2003 18:02:55 -0500
Subject: VSCDA Member
For those of you who raced with Gary Dewey in Group 3 at Grattan or worked
with his at Spring Brake 2003 as an instructor, I have some not good news.
Gary died yesterday from a heart attack. He was in his very early 50's like
52 I think.
His wife is Sherrie
Address is:
9780 Rolling Hills Dr
Alto, MI 49302
There will be a Memorial Service this Wed.
Judy
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Judy Cull [mailto:vscda@iserv.net]
To: Rick Gurolnick; Carl Braun; Lowell Blossom; John Golanty;
Date: Sun, 11 May 2003 18:22:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Installing points fuel pump
This may not be the answer you are looking for, but
after years of grief trying to keep the SU pump on my
BJ8 working regularly... I finally decided to ditch it
for a solid state pump. I bought a Facet one, this is
it:
http://www.jcwhitney.com/item.jhtml?ITEMID=4661&BQ=jcw2
I think you can get these pumps at NAPA and
Carquest.... they work positive or negative ground and
take about 15 minutes to hook up... and are much more
durable than the SU pumps.
You should at least get a Facet as a cheap road-side
emergency back up to your SU... and be sure to get the
lowest pressure one (as I've selected on the JCWhitney
link)... as the high pressure ones may flood your
float bowls and waste gas...
The funny thing about these Facet pumps is I believe
they bolt right up to the BN7 and BT7 mounts.... my
BJ8 is a little different but I got it to work.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Ronald Fine <ronfineesq@earthlink.net> wrote:
> Help is needed to properly install or adjust new
> points in a original
> fuel pump in my 61BN7. The pump was working but I
> could see the old
> points were shot so I bought new points from Moss.
> They only list one
> type. The new points were different from the old
> and the factory manual
> indicates that my old ones were the proper points
> for the "early pump"
> and the points Moss sent me appear to be for a
> "Later" pump. Are these
> points interchangeable?? I did install the new ones
> and they appeared
> to work but I soon discovered that once the pump
> filled the float
> chambers it stopped pumping. Then when I ran out of
> gas and stopped the
> car I turned the ignition key off and on again the
> pump sprang to life
> filling the float chambers again. I did this
> several times to get back
> home and the question is, do I have the right points
> and if so, is there
> an adjustment I can make? The factory manual was
> not very helpful to
> me. Any assistance is always appreciated. I was so
> looking forward to a
> nice day out in sunny L.A.
> Ron , 61BN7
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: Judy Cull [mailto:vscda@iserv.net]
To: Rick Gurolnick; Carl Braun; Lowell Blossom; John Golanty;
Date: Sun, 11 May 2003 22:07:57 EDT
Subject: Re: BJ8 distributor lubrication
"Shipping charges will apply if out side of the continental United States"
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: Judy Cull [mailto:vscda@iserv.net]
To: Rick Gurolnick; Carl Braun; Lowell Blossom; John Golanty;
Date: Sun, 11 May 2003 19:07:24 -0700
Subject: Re: spare wheel staple
I verified this on a car of mine which just came out of the paint shop.
(for those of you in the Cascade Club; the green car is home!!)
John Snyder
> Would someone show me where the spare wheel securing staple is mounted on
my
> 60BT7. I have a staple and two screws but cannot figure what to mount it
to
> in the trunk.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Price
> 60BT7
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: Judy Cull [mailto:vscda@iserv.net]
To: Rick Gurolnick; Carl Braun; Lowell Blossom; John Golanty;
Date: Sun, 11 May 2003 22:18:22 EDT
Subject: Re: Installing points fuel pump
* * * * * * * * * *
Tech Talk by Norman Nock $30.00 + S H
A Collection on my tech. articles, that have been in various magazines along
with factory and Lucas bulletins about how things work. In easy to
understand writing. 221 pages Call me for more information at 209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: Judy Cull [mailto:vscda@iserv.net]
To: Rick Gurolnick; Carl Braun; Lowell Blossom; John Golanty;
Date: Sun, 11 May 2003 20:20:52 -0600
Subject: Re: Installing points fuel pump
It sounds as if the pump contacts are not reliably toggling. There is a
good adjustment procedure here. Scroll down to near the bottom.
http://www.mgcars.org.uk/electrical/body_pump.html
The "SU Workshop Manual" covers all aspects of carbs & pumps. It is
available from several common vendors. It all depends upon how serious
you are about knowing how the stuff works.
I have found that if the SU pump is in good condition & properly
adjusted it will provide years of reliable operation. The later pumps
such as the AZX series are definitely reliable. I do however keep a
cheap Facet pump in the car as a spare for others who may need it.
Dave Russell
BN2
Ronald Fine wrote:
> Help is needed to properly install or adjust new points in a original
> fuel pump in my 61BN7. ---- do I have the right points and if so, is there
> an adjustment I can make? The factory manual was not very helpful to
> me. Any assistance is always appreciated.
> Ron , 61BN7
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From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: Judy Cull [mailto:vscda@iserv.net]
To: Rick Gurolnick; Carl Braun; Lowell Blossom; John Golanty;
Date: Sun, 11 May 2003 19:30:25 -0700
Subject: Bay Area Radiator Shop
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: Judy Cull [mailto:vscda@iserv.net]
To: Rick Gurolnick; Carl Braun; Lowell Blossom; John Golanty;
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 00:38:06 EDT
Subject: Re: 100 Chassis and Engine numbers
The 1B231510 engine is probably from a BN-2 produced around late March or
early April 1956.
Les should submit the chassis number to the British Motor Industry Heritage
Trust and request a certificate. It will tell him the original
configuration, colors, etc. Let me know if he needs help in doing so.
I would be very interested in the body number, which is stamped in several
places, the easiest to find being on the edge of the (engine) hood. I
suspect the body number is around #2020. Let me know if Les needs help in
finding the number.
Regards.
Steve Mickelson
Helping with the BN-1 and BN-2 Registries
In a message dated 5/11/03 7:23:55 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
rwmolyneux@shaw.ca writes:
> A friend purchased what he believes to be a 1953 100/4 way back in 1972. At
> that time he understood that the engine had been replaced with one from a
> later 100/4. With the numbers provided can anyone confirm this?
>
> Chassis BN1L152456
> Engine 1B231510
>
> Les is now rebuilding the engine, and hopes to have the car on the road
> this summer. Any information on the engine would be appreciated.
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From "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson at earthlink.net>
From: Judy Cull [mailto:vscda@iserv.net]
To: Rick Gurolnick; Carl Braun; Lowell Blossom; John Golanty;
Date: Sun, 11 May 2003 22:32:53 -0700
Subject: RE: Healey lists to port
Greg
> -----Original Message-----
>
> It is fairly common for the cars to have the springs sag on the driver's
> side, even if the driver isn't that big. Maybe switch the leaf
> springs from
> side to side and eventually it will even out?
>
> Greg Lemon
> 54 BN1
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Judy Cull [mailto:vscda@iserv.net]
To: Rick Gurolnick; Carl Braun; Lowell Blossom; John Golanty;
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 00:04:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: RE: Healey lists to port
If you were really slick, you'd pour 200 lbs of lead
shot in the rocker panels before the race to hide it
from the NASCAR officials like Richard Petty does!
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Greg Wilkinson <wilkinson@earthlink.net> wrote:
> I think I'd rather put 150 lbs. of rocks in the
> passenger side than change
> the springs again. If I put 300 lbs. will it even
> out twice as fast? ;~)
>
> Greg
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> >
> > It is fairly common for the cars to have the
> springs sag on the driver's
> > side, even if the driver isn't that big. Maybe
> switch the leaf
> > springs from
> > side to side and eventually it will even out?
> >
> > Greg Lemon
> > 54 BN1
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Judy Cull [mailto:vscda@iserv.net]
To: Rick Gurolnick; Carl Braun; Lowell Blossom; John Golanty;
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 06:21:21 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey lists to port
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From Bill Rister <brister at hal-pc.org>
From: Judy Cull [mailto:vscda@iserv.net]
To: Rick Gurolnick; Carl Braun; Lowell Blossom; John Golanty;
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 08:13:04 -0700
Subject: Sprite List
Thank you
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From "Pamela Holmes" <holmes at mcn.org>
From: Judy Cull [mailto:vscda@iserv.net]
To: Rick Gurolnick; Carl Braun; Lowell Blossom; John Golanty;
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 06:24:53 -0700
Subject: Healey Silverstone parts
Cheers,
Joel Holmes
60 BT7
60 Morris 2-Dr
58 Morris Pick-up
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
Joel & Pamela Holmes.vcf]
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: Judy Cull [mailto:vscda@iserv.net]
To: Rick Gurolnick; Carl Braun; Lowell Blossom; John Golanty;
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 10:11:26 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey lists to port, and other weighty subjects
Sounds exciting, but, even if RP did/does what you said, the logic escapes
me. If his car was weighed with the lead, and he then presumably took it out,
wouldn't he have some tall explaining to do when the car was weighed after
the race?
I have a friend who used to race Formula Jr. in the sixties (and finally
became West Coast champion) who was in the enviable position (VERY slight of
build) of being able to ADD weight to his car, almost unheard of in FJ.
Dick Hosmer
BT7L18556
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: Judy Cull [mailto:vscda@iserv.net]
To: Rick Gurolnick; Carl Braun; Lowell Blossom; John Golanty;
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 10:49:06 -0400
Subject: Re: Healey Silverstone parts
Good Luck, Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pamela Holmes" <holmes@mcn.org>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2003 9:24 AM
Subject: Healey Silverstone parts
> Can anyone suggest a parts supplier for Healey Silverstone mechanical
parts.
> I'm helping a friend get his 50 Silverstone back on the road after 13
years of
> sitting in his garage and it looks like a brake system rebuild to start
with.
> Thanks for the help.
>
> Cheers,
> Joel Holmes
> 60 BT7
> 60 Morris 2-Dr
> 58 Morris Pick-up
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: Judy Cull [mailto:vscda@iserv.net]
To: Rick Gurolnick; Carl Braun; Lowell Blossom; John Golanty;
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 11:10:54 EDT
Subject: Re: flyweel 1/4 timing mark
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
IF there are attached files and you are unable to open please use.
<A HREF="http://www.stuffit.com/expander/";>StuffIt Expander: Unzip zip,
access StuffIt filb&</A>
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From "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson at thicko.com>
From: Judy Cull [mailto:vscda@iserv.net]
To: Rick Gurolnick; Carl Braun; Lowell Blossom; John Golanty;
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 10:11:52 -0500
Subject: RE: Just in Time video
Thank you for your quick replies to this offer. I had over 50+ orders in 24
hours.
Apparently, the club in the UK is having a memorial service for Roger on May
18th. It appears if I make a quick trip to the city today, I can have DVD's
ready to ship by mid-week... including getting one over to the UK for the
service.
Some of you have already paid via PayPal, or mailed checks. Thank you. Those
of you that have not, now is a good time to do so.
Shipping costs will be $3.95 for USPS Priority mail in the US. Those of you
outside of the US, toss in a few extra bucks, and we'll call it even. This
isn't business... it's charity.
I'll consider a run of 75 DVDs at this piont, in order to serve orders that
have not yet been made. If any of you clubs out there would like to order a
quantity for resale to your locals, please do so quickly so I can account
for this in my duplication.
PayPal to
wsthompson@thicko.com
Checks to
Wm. Severin Thompson
20560 W. Woodland Ave.
Lake Villa, IL 60046
USA
Thanks.
WST
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: Judy Cull [mailto:vscda@iserv.net]
To: Rick Gurolnick; Carl Braun; Lowell Blossom; John Golanty;
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 11:19:42 EDT
Subject: Re: Bay Area Radiator Shop
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
IF there are attached files and you are unable to open please use.
<A HREF="http://www.stuffit.com/expander/";>StuffIt Expander: Unzip zip,
access StuffIt filb&</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER at netl.doe.gov>
From: Judy Cull [mailto:vscda@iserv.net]
To: Rick Gurolnick; Carl Braun; Lowell Blossom; John Golanty;
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 11:46:41 -0400
Subject: Re: Installing points fuel pump
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: Judy Cull [mailto:vscda@iserv.net]
To: Rick Gurolnick; Carl Braun; Lowell Blossom; John Golanty;
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 10:54:08 -0500
Subject: To Tar Paper or Not To Tar Paper and Gas Gauge Tank Sending
Jack
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a
name of winmail.dat]
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From "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER at netl.doe.gov>
From: Judy Cull [mailto:vscda@iserv.net]
To: Rick Gurolnick; Carl Braun; Lowell Blossom; John Golanty;
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 11:57:49 -0400
Subject: Re: Installing points fuel pump
Is there some way that my ham-handed diagnostic technique can be mitigated by
repair/replacement of whatever I've fried, or should I just figure I've learned
some kind of lesson about being ignorant and pretending I'm not?
Randy Cooper
BT7 and either (a) spare fuel pumps or (b) toasted garbage
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From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: Judy Cull [mailto:vscda@iserv.net]
To: Rick Gurolnick; Carl Braun; Lowell Blossom; John Golanty;
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 11:52:12 -0500
Subject: repost items for sale /address & phone #
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: Judy Cull [mailto:vscda@iserv.net]
To: Rick Gurolnick; Carl Braun; Lowell Blossom; John Golanty;
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 11:14:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: brake line set 4sale/trade
__________________________________
The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo.
http://search.yahoo.com
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: Judy Cull [mailto:vscda@iserv.net]
To: Rick Gurolnick; Carl Braun; Lowell Blossom; John Golanty;
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 12:55:07 -0600
Subject: Re: Installing points fuel pump
I will give you the same advice that I sent to Ron a while back. Go to
this link.
http://www.mgcars.org.uk/electrical/body_pump.html
In all likelyhood the arc suppression diode is blown. This link explains
how it works, how to replace it, & how to adjust the points. Note that
the diode is installed differently for pos & neg ground cars.
If it is an older pump with a capacitor instead of a diode the polarity
shouldn't matter.
Dave Russell
BN2
Randolph Cooper wrote:
> All,
> In the boxes of spares and junk I inherited when I bought my project I had a
>couple of SU electric fuel pumps that looked pretty new-ish. In the process
>of determining whether or not they worked, I was less than sensitive about the
>consequences of inappropriate grounding, and, if they worked before, they
>certainly don't work now.
>
> Is there some way that my ham-handed diagnostic technique can be mitigated by
>repair/replacement of whatever I've fried, or should I just figure I've
>learned some kind of lesson about being ignorant and pretending I'm not?
>
> Randy Cooper
> BT7 and either (a) spare fuel pumps or (b) toasted garbage
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: Judy Cull [mailto:vscda@iserv.net]
To: Rick Gurolnick; Carl Braun; Lowell Blossom; John Golanty;
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 13:10:47 -0600
Subject: Re: To Tar Paper or Not To Tar Paper and Gas Gauge Tank Sending
http://www.mainstreet-audio.com/dynamat/
You can also put a layer of foam carpet padding over the Dynamat. These
cars need all of the heat blocking that they can get.
I personally would get a new sending unit. If you like a challenge your
unit could be rewound but the wire is extremely fine & it is hard to
anchor it in place. More work than I would want to do after trying it once.
Dave Russell
BN2
Brashear, Jack, N wrote:
> Do I need to install "tar paper" or not before the carpets (made 'em
> myself and they look great) go in?? Second, the little coil in my gas
> gauge tank sending unit is apparently shorted so that I have no
> variance in resistance anywhere along it. Has anyone ever rewound
> one of these?? Are new coils available for purchase?? Does anyone
> have an entire good used sending unit for sale?? Please help me out,
> I'm getting really antsy to drive this old girl again after 25 years.
> Thanks,
>
> Jack
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From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
From: Judy Cull [mailto:vscda@iserv.net]
To: Rick Gurolnick; Carl Braun; Lowell Blossom; John Golanty;
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 12:13:56 -0700
Subject: Cam/Valve timing for 29D-RU-H (3000)
How can I be sure my cam/valve timing is correct prior to putting the engine
back in the car? Per the service manual, the slot and key between the cam
gear and shaft are at TDC, and the same for the crank (slot and key at TDC).
The timing mark for the cam gear is at the top, and the timing mark on the
crank gear is at the bottom. I checked Norm's tech talk, and on his diagram
"A" side it calls for 13 links and 16 on the "B" side, these are the number
of links between the link above and below the timing dots on the two gears.
Does this all sound correct? I plan to drop the engine back in the car on
Wednesday, and just want to be sure.
Cheers,
Frank
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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: Judy Cull [mailto:vscda@iserv.net]
To: Rick Gurolnick; Carl Braun; Lowell Blossom; John Golanty;
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 14:43:16 -0500
Subject: splash apron for front of MK1 3000
Brian Collins
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Judy Cull [mailto:vscda@iserv.net]
To: Rick Gurolnick; Carl Braun; Lowell Blossom; John Golanty;
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 14:55:28 -0500 (cdt)
Subject: Re: Cam/Valve timing for 29D-RU-H (3000)
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From "Horn, Granville" <GHorn at ci.kent.wa.us>
From: Judy Cull [mailto:vscda@iserv.net]
To: Rick Gurolnick; Carl Braun; Lowell Blossom; John Golanty;
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 13:07:43 -0700
Subject: RE: splash apron for front of MK1 3000
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From "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt at erols.com>
From: Judy Cull [mailto:vscda@iserv.net]
To: Rick Gurolnick; Carl Braun; Lowell Blossom; John Golanty;
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 16:42:25 -0400
Subject: inlet manifold fitting
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From "Classic-Car-World Ltd" <enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk>
From: Judy Cull [mailto:vscda@iserv.net]
To: Rick Gurolnick; Carl Braun; Lowell Blossom; John Golanty;
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 23:15:54 +0100
Subject: Healey 100/6 BN4 (Modified)
http://adcache.collectorcartraderonline.com/10/4/4/47438344.htm
Scary!! :o)
Tom
Tom McCay
Classic-Car-World Ltd
Tel: 01522 888178
Fax: 0870 7059115
E-mail: enquiries@classic-car-world.co.uk
URL: http://www.classic-car-world.co.uk
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: Judy Cull [mailto:vscda@iserv.net]
To: Rick Gurolnick; Carl Braun; Lowell Blossom; John Golanty;
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 08:15:08 +1000
Subject: RE: Healey Silverstone parts
I would suggest that you friend gets in contact with whatever club caters for
Rileys as that's where the breaks came from along with most of the other
mechanicals. The Riley club here in Australia is particularly active in spares
and if you want to pay for shipping cots etc I could see what I can do.
There is also a specific club in the UK called the Association of Healey Owners
that carry quite bit of the unique Healey parts like the front suspension bits
etc.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
-----Original Message-----
From: Pamela Holmes [mailto:holmes@mcn.org]
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2003 11:25 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Healey Silverstone parts
Can anyone suggest a parts supplier for Healey Silverstone mechanical parts.
I'm helping a friend get his 50 Silverstone back on the road after 13 years of
sitting in his garage and it looks like a brake system rebuild to start with.
Thanks for the help.
Cheers,
Joel Holmes
60 BT7
60 Morris 2-Dr
58 Morris Pick-up
**********************************************************************
This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain
privileged information or confidential information or both. If you
are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender.
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From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: Judy Cull [mailto:vscda@iserv.net]
To: Rick Gurolnick; Carl Braun; Lowell Blossom; John Golanty;
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 19:19:22 -0400
Subject: Re: Healey 100/6 BN4 (Modified)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Classic-Car-World Ltd" <enquiries@classic-car-world.co.uk>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2003 6:15 PM
Subject: Healey 100/6 BN4 (Modified)
> Found this on the MG list & thought it might be of interest to the group.
>
> http://adcache.collectorcartraderonline.com/10/4/4/47438344.htm
>
> Scary!! :o)
>
> Tom
> Tom McCay
> Classic-Car-World Ltd
> Tel: 01522 888178
> Fax: 0870 7059115
> E-mail: enquiries@classic-car-world.co.uk
> URL: http://www.classic-car-world.co.uk
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Judy Cull [mailto:vscda@iserv.net]
To: Rick Gurolnick; Carl Braun; Lowell Blossom; John Golanty;
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 19:35:01 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey 100/6 BN4 (Modified)
> He's gonna lose some serious concours points. The blower's not even painted
> Healey engine green!
>
I like the auxiliary instrument panel.
Michael
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From Bruce Steele <bsteele2 at pacbell.net>
From: Judy Cull [mailto:vscda@iserv.net]
To: Rick Gurolnick; Carl Braun; Lowell Blossom; John Golanty;
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 17:41:35 -0700
Subject: Re: Healey 100/6 BN4 (Modified)
Bruce Steele
bsteele2@pacbell.net
----- Original Message -----
From: Classic-Car-World Ltd
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2003 3:15 PM
Subject: Healey 100/6 BN4 (Modified)
Found this on the MG list & thought it might be of interest to the group.
http://adcache.collectorcartraderonline.com/10/4/4/47438344.htm
Scary!! :o)
Tom
Tom McCay
Classic-Car-World Ltd
Tel: 01522 888178
Fax: 0870 7059115
E-mail: enquiries@classic-car-world.co.uk
URL: http://www.classic-car-world.co.uk
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: Judy Cull [mailto:vscda@iserv.net]
To: Rick Gurolnick; Carl Braun; Lowell Blossom; John Golanty;
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 19:03:40 -0600
Subject: Re: Healey 100/6 BN4 (Modified)
You missed the most interesting gear shift lever - hard to keep ones hands off
it
- wink!
Kind regards
Ed
Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 5/12/2003 7:22:31 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com writes:
>
> > He's gonna lose some serious concours points. The blower's not even painted
> > Healey engine green!
> >
>
> I like the auxiliary instrument panel.
>
> Michael
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From "James Shope" <healeymanjim at JoiMail.com>
From: Judy Cull [mailto:vscda@iserv.net]
To: Rick Gurolnick; Carl Braun; Lowell Blossom; John Golanty;
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 19:59:06 -0700
Subject: voltage regulator
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: Judy Cull [mailto:vscda@iserv.net]
To: Rick Gurolnick; Carl Braun; Lowell Blossom; John Golanty;
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 21:48:26 -0600
Subject: Re: voltage regulator
Bill Lawrence
James Shope wrote:
> need help. went to put on new voltage regulator on friends bj7 and vaguely
> remembered that you are supposed to polarize them first. looked for
> instructions but none with package and nothing in my manual. anybody know the
> exact steps to take. any help will be appreciated. thanks. healeymanjim
> bj8.
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: Judy Cull [mailto:vscda@iserv.net]
To: Rick Gurolnick; Carl Braun; Lowell Blossom; John Golanty;
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 22:34:12 -0600
Subject: Re: voltage regulator
Dave Russell
James Shope wrote:
> need help. went to put on new voltage regulator on friends bj7 and vaguely
> remembered that you are supposed to polarize them first. looked for
> instructions but none with package and nothing in my manual. anybody know the
> exact steps to take. any help will be appreciated. thanks. healeymanjim
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Judy Cull [mailto:vscda@iserv.net]
To: Rick Gurolnick; Carl Braun; Lowell Blossom; John Golanty;
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 23:11:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Healey 100/6 BN4 (Modified)
http://www.ntahc.org/modifiedhealeys/Photos/126Marian/Marian.htm
Alan
--- Classic-Car-World Ltd
<enquiries@classic-car-world.co.uk> wrote:
> Found this on the MG list & thought it might be of
> interest to the group.
>
>
http://adcache.collectorcartraderonline.com/10/4/4/47438344.htm
>
> Scary!! :o)
>
> Tom
> Tom McCay
> Classic-Car-World Ltd
> Tel: 01522 888178
> Fax: 0870 7059115
> E-mail: enquiries@classic-car-world.co.uk
> URL: http://www.classic-car-world.co.uk
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bill Rister <brister at hal-pc.org>
From: Judy Cull [mailto:vscda@iserv.net]
To: Rick Gurolnick; Carl Braun; Lowell Blossom; John Golanty;
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 07:13:02 -0700
Subject: Engine Problem
Any clue as to what to look for?
- Bill Rister
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From BANJOJOHN at aol.com
From: Judy Cull [mailto:vscda@iserv.net]
To: Rick Gurolnick; Carl Braun; Lowell Blossom; John Golanty;
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 08:22:42 EDT
Subject: Re: Engine Problem
Just my 2 cents worth
John O'Brien
'61 bugeye
'65 BJ8
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Judy Cull [mailto:vscda@iserv.net]
To: Rick Gurolnick; Carl Braun; Lowell Blossom; John Golanty;
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 09:04:41 -0400
Subject: RE: Engine Problem
What you are describing sounds to me as though you have a fuel delivery
problem.
I would recommend that you hook up a fuel pressure gauge close to the
carburetor, most mechanics have one, and check that the fuel pressure
remains above 2 p.s.i. when the problem occurs.
If it does not, look into line blockages or a bad pump.
If it does, take a careful look at the float chamber, fuel jet or needle
and seat.
I think the compression thing is a red herring and I would leave that
alone for now.
Hope that helps.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bill Rister
Sent: 13-May-03 10:13 AM
To: AH Net
Subject: Engine Problem
I've asked for the Sprite email address with no response.
Since my Sprite is a Healey and the engine is four cylinder, perhaps
someone will/can give me a clue as to what to do. My 948 engine had
been sitting for around a year. After going through all the
preliminaries... hand crank, etc. I started it. Points were clean and
correct. The engine idles strong but upon acceleration loses power.
Same when driving.. 1st and 2nd are strong but 3rd and 4th lose power
and the engine occasionally backfires. Firing order is 1-3-4-2.
Compression consistantly reads 150 on 1,3 and 4. It reads 140 on 2 for
just a second and then jumps to 150 and remains there.
Any clue as to what to look for?
- Bill Rister
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: Judy Cull [mailto:vscda@iserv.net]
To: Rick Gurolnick; Carl Braun; Lowell Blossom; John Golanty;
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 08:35:56 -0500
Subject: My Book (No Healey Content)
After I posted my note that my book is available I realized that a lot of
folks know the scams that are being perpetrated on the internet and might
not be willing to send money for something they may never receive.
If you are interested in purchasing my book, send me your snail mail address
and I'll send you a copy...THEN you can send me a check for $7.95. I'll
assume the risk instead of any of you.
Again, I will donate 50 cents from each sale to Mark (List Manager) for
continuation of this list.
Thanks
Don
"Life is not measured by the breaths we take but by the things that take our
breath away"
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From NPaul72464 at aol.com
From: Judy Cull [mailto:vscda@iserv.net]
To: Rick Gurolnick; Carl Braun; Lowell Blossom; John Golanty;
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 10:59:57 EDT
Subject: Re: voltage regulator
Ned Paulsen
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: Judy Cull [mailto:vscda@iserv.net]
To: Rick Gurolnick; Carl Braun; Lowell Blossom; John Golanty;
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 11:02:17 EDT
Subject: Re: voltage regulator
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
IF there are attached files and you are unable to open please use.
<A HREF="http://www.stuffit.com/expander/";>StuffIt Expander: Unzip zip,
access StuffIt filb&</A>
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt at erols.com>
From: Judy Cull [mailto:vscda@iserv.net]
To: Rick Gurolnick; Carl Braun; Lowell Blossom; John Golanty;
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 11:06:14 -0400
Subject: inlet manifold fitting thread
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
From: Judy Cull [mailto:vscda@iserv.net]
To: Rick Gurolnick; Carl Braun; Lowell Blossom; John Golanty;
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 10:46:10 -0700
Subject: Head bolt
The inside of my engine that I rebuilt 11 years ago, looks like new (well
almost), never fired it after the rebuild. This engine has been sleeved all
6 cylinders, new standard sized pistons, all the head work done, crank
ground, balanced, etcetera. No rust or corrosion on the inside. After a
quick paint job tonight, and some other minor work, it will be ready to drop
back in the chassis on Wednesday.
Question: After replacing the head bolts with a new set, I noticed that one
bolt, middle on manifold side, stands proud of the others by about 2
threads. At first it was up by about 4 threads, and I was able to get it in
a bit further, but that's about as far as it will go. I did not check in
the hole, or try to clean out the threads. Could this present a problem?
Should I pull the head back off and try to get the bolt to go down the last
couple of threads?
Cheers,
Frank
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From Jim Wood <jwood_kc at yahoo.com>
From: Judy Cull [mailto:vscda@iserv.net]
To: Rick Gurolnick; Carl Braun; Lowell Blossom; John Golanty;
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 10:52:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Condensation in fuel guage
Any ideas???
Jim Wood
'67 BJ8
__________________________________
The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo.
http://search.yahoo.com
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From Bill Rister <brister at hal-pc.org>
From: Judy Cull [mailto:vscda@iserv.net]
To: Rick Gurolnick; Carl Braun; Lowell Blossom; John Golanty;
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 12:57:03 -0700
Subject: Re: Engine Problems
I had failed to note that a new fuel tank was installed but before
installation new flex lines were installed on the electric fuel pump,
the steel line was flushed and blown out, and the Weber carb had been
completely dismantled, cleaned and rebuilt.
The majority suggest fuel problems, so I'll re-check the carb, gaskets,
etc first. Then we'll go from there.
Again, thank you to everyone
- Bill Rister
'60 BT7 '61 AN5
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From "Alan Schultz" <alan at andysnet.net>
From: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>
To: "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 14:21:56 -0500
Subject: Engine Problem
> I've asked for the Sprite email address with no response.
> Since my Sprite is a Healey and the engine is four cylinder, perhaps
> someone will/can give me a clue as to what to do. My 948 engine had
> been sitting for around a year. After going through all the
> preliminaries... hand crank, etc. I started it. Points were clean and
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Alan Schultz" <alan at andysnet.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 14:30:56 -0500
Subject: Re: Engine Problem
> If you have SU carbs I suggest you pull the diaphrams and check for splits
> in the material. I had this happen on a Spitfire I owned a couple of years
> ago.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>
> To: "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2003 9:13 AM
> Subject: Engine Problem
>
>
> > I've asked for the Sprite email address with no response.
> > Since my Sprite is a Healey and the engine is four cylinder, perhaps
> > someone will/can give me a clue as to what to do. My 948 engine had
> > been sitting for around a year. After going through all the
> > preliminaries... hand crank, etc. I started it. Points were clean and
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From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 13:02:01 -0700
Subject: Re: Condensation in fuel guage
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Wood" <jwood_kc@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2003 10:52 AM
Subject: Condensation in fuel guage
> For some reason I have been having condensation
> forming behind the face on the fuel guage. What is
> strange to me is that when the car sits, no moisture
> is visible. Shortly after I start it up, still parked
> in the garage, I notice the guage start to fog up a
> little, and after I drive a while, I will notice that
> it is clear. This cycle has repeated itself several
> times, but the fuel guage is the only one affected.
>
> Any ideas???
>
> Jim Wood
> '67 BJ8
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From MBran89793 at aol.com
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 16:04:49 EDT
Subject: Re: Condensation in fuel guage
> Shortly after I start it up, still parked
> in the garage, I notice the guage start to fog up a
> little, and after I drive a while, I will notice that
> it is clear.
Hi-
If you find out what causes this please tell us.
The fuel guage in my BJ8, "Blackie," also has this happen quite frequently
but I haven't noticed any ill effects from it. The guage even registers
correctly most of the time.
Marion Brantley
BT7(2)
BJ8
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From nickz at attbi.com
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 20:54:20 +0000
Subject: Nut & lock washer for choke cable
Thx.
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From Ptuleysr at cs.com
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 17:40:43 EDT
Subject: parts to trade
Leftovers:
Used:
1. rear BT7 backrest frame - wood - bought another (shouldn't
have - this one would have been fine with a little
work. I had to rework the new one I bought from H.......)
2. tachometer - doesn't work - bought another
3. right and left door latch assy - bought by mistake
4. headlamp mounting ring -
5. headlamp bucket
6. headlamp rim
7. headlamp mounting ring -diff type?
8. seat pan for right hand seat (Bought new ones from H.....
because they told me this one might not work with their stuff. It would have
been fine.)
9. rear view mirror ( Mirror OK - has diff style of mounting
flange than repo from M....)
10. ash tray
11. pair of air deflectors
12. water pump pulley (New water pump had integral pully)
13. rear squab for BJ7 or BJ8 (I got the car in pieces. I don't
know how this got mixed in.)
14. packing piece for seat slide
New parts: All from M...
1. 12 foot roll of fender isolation material (used some on my
car but have a lot left.)
2. six feet shut face finisher - black (from M...)
3. bumper mounting bracket - left hand rear
Wanted for my 60 BT7:
1. shut face finisher plate inside left side only.
2. grease cup front wire wheel
3. shims for front wire wheel bearing adjustment
4. seal kit - door to scuttle
5. soft top - wood top bow
6. soft top - retaining rail
7. soft top - clamp set
8. battery clamp rods
9. rear seat back retaining plate
10. turn signal lever - really need button only
11. anti-roll bar links
12. bushings etc for anti roll bar (I have the roll bar
itself.)
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 17:42:36 -0400
Subject: RE: Nut & lock washer for choke cable
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of nickz@attbi.com
Sent: 13-May-03 4:54 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Nut & lock washer for choke cable
Could someone tell me where to get a nut and lock washer for the choke
pull. I have to buy the whole unit from Moss just to get the nut and
washer
which I think is a waste of money. If someone knows the metric thread
size I could check the local hardware store. I would like to have it in
hand
before I pull the cable.
Thx.
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 18:46:24 EDT
Subject: Re: Nut & lock washer for choke cable
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
IF there are attached files and you are unable to open please use.
<A HREF="http://www.stuffit.com/expander/";>StuffIt Expander: Unzip zip,
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 18:42:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Engine Problems
Definitely check your fuel filter. I see these things
clog up fuel flow all the time... esp. when they
haven't been changed in a long time. Also your fuel
pump might be on the fritz.
Alan
--- Bill Rister <brister@hal-pc.org> wrote:
> Thanks to all who responded ..both to my quest for
> the Sprite address
> and to my 948cc engine problem.
> All replies have been printed and I'll definitely
> consider all suggestions.
>
> I had failed to note that a new fuel tank was
> installed but before
> installation new flex lines were installed on the
> electric fuel pump,
> the steel line was flushed and blown out, and the
> Weber carb had been
> completely dismantled, cleaned and rebuilt.
>
> The majority suggest fuel problems, so I'll re-check
> the carb, gaskets,
> etc first. Then we'll go from there.
>
> Again, thank you to everyone
> - Bill Rister
> '60 BT7 '61 AN5
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From DrBerkowitz at aol.com
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 22:53:04 -0400
Subject: overdrive malfunction
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 22:50:15 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: overdrive malfunction
Overdrive units rarely go bad. I'd check a few things
FIRST before ripping the thing out and sending it to a
shop to tear down.
There are usually three things that effect their
everyday performance:
1) Lack of gearbox oil - When was the last time you
checked your gearbox oil? If shifiting into OD is
slow or you have to be off the clutch... you may have
hardly any oil in your gearbox. Also you may have
poor performance here if the oil you are using is
incorrect. You should use 30WT or 20W-50 oil in your
gearbox... nothing else. If you are using hypoid gear
oil or something like that... it may cause slow
shifting and will ruin your OD over time.
2) Solenoid misadjustment - You may wish to check if
your OD solenoid is operating within the parameters as
described in the shop manual. Just be careful when
adjusting this because you can burn it out if you
adjust the down plunger setting too far.
3) Relay adjustments. Most healeys have two relays
associated with the OD. One relay cuts the OD
solenoid in and out. Sounds like that one is working.
The other relay, called the throttle relay, cuts out
the OD when you switch the OD off and then step on the
throttle (i.e. gas pedal). Sounds like this relay is
working but is simply out of adjustment. Again, refer
to your shop manual and it will explain how this
throttle relay should be adjusted.
Hope that helps,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- DrBerkowitz@aol.com wrote:
> When up or downshifting the O.D. it feels like
> something lets go before it actually engages. The
> only way to up shift into O.D. is to let off the gas
> pedal and then hit the switch. To downshift out of
> O.D. I have to depress the clutch hit the switch and
> rev the engine. The O.D. never drops out while
> driving. Any suggestions. Also does any one know
> of someone, preferable on or near Long Island, that
> can bench test an overdrive. I have a second unit
> which I have never used. I just don't want to do the
> switch unless I know it works. Thanks
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From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 14 May 2003 04:21:44 EDT
Subject: Re: overdrive malfunction
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 14 May 2003 07:10:01 -0400
Subject: RE: overdrive malfunction
>From your description I suspect that the fault in your overdrive is
caused by a failed unidirection clutch. This clutch located inside the
annulus gear is required to ensure that the input shaft to the overdrive
unit can never turn faster than the output shaft. This prevents the
engine overspeeding if the overdrive is engaged under power.
To correct this problem the overdrive unit has to be removed and
disassembled.
If the problem is that the engine speed drops away (with closed
throttle) then a more likely cause is insufficient overdrive unit oil
pressure. This should be checked as per the instructions in the WS
manual.
Low oil pressure in the overdrive can be caused by many things but the
most likely are low oil level or scoring of the accumulator bores.
Dr ;-) Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of DrBerkowitz@aol.com
Sent: 13-May-03 10:53 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: overdrive malfunction
When up or downshifting the O.D. it feels like something lets go before
it actually engages. The only way to up shift into O.D. is to let off
the gas pedal and then hit the switch. To downshift out of O.D. I have
to depress the clutch hit the switch and rev the engine. The O.D. never
drops out while driving. Any suggestions. Also does any one know of
someone, preferable on or near Long Island, that can bench test an
overdrive. I have a second unit which I have never used. I just don't
want to do the switch unless I know it works. Thanks
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From "Mell Ward" <russward at lineone.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 14 May 2003 18:27:53 +0100
Subject: Fw: Roger Menadue Service
Following this their will be a cavalcade of Cars to The Honiley Court Hotel,
Honiley Nr Warwick.
Anyone that knew Roger and would like to say a few words is very welcome to
send an e-mail and we will display them for all to read at the luncheon.
Mell Ward
UK Club
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From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 14 May 2003 10:32:48 -0700
Subject: RE: Head bolt
I want to thank those that replied about my stud (not bolt) question.
This evening I will pull the head, pull the stud, blow out the hole,
carefully chase the threads with the tap, lightly grease the threads, and
re-assemble.
Thank you all for the advice, it's greatly appreciated!
Cheers,
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: Golding, Frank
Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2003 10:46 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Head bolt
List,
The inside of my engine that I rebuilt 11 years ago, looks like new (well
almost), never fired it after the rebuild. This engine has been sleeved all
6 cylinders, new standard sized pistons, all the head work done, crank
ground, balanced, etcetera. No rust or corrosion on the inside. After a
quick paint job tonight, and some other minor work, it will be ready to drop
back in the chassis on Wednesday.
Question: After replacing the head bolts with a new set, I noticed that one
bolt, middle on manifold side, stands proud of the others by about 2
threads. At first it was up by about 4 threads, and I was able to get it in
a bit further, but that's about as far as it will go. I did not check in
the hole, or try to clean out the threads. Could this present a problem?
Should I pull the head back off and try to get the bolt to go down the last
couple of threads?
Cheers,
Frank
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From "Michael E. Williams" <michaelwilliams at attbi.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 00:52:19 -0400
Subject: Holes In Firewall
The firewall of my BN1 has a number of holes (maybe a dozen in all) that
should not be there. Some are small but a few are almost an inch in
diameter! Only the PO(s) no what the reasons were for all these holes
(several were for a custom bonnet closure and release mechanism that I have
removed) but it is quite a mess. Some of the larger holes are not even round
so using a blanking plug won't work. Is there a way that these can be
patched? What method could be used? Could it be done with the engine in
place? (the wiring and everything coming through the firewall has been
removed).
--Michael
'55 BN1
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 09:45:23 -0400
Subject: RE: Holes In Firewall
When repairing holes in steel cabinets of old radios that I restore, I use
ordinary fiberglass patch material, a.k.a Bondo. After it hardens it can be
machined, sanded, and smoothed before painting. It adheres like crazy to
rough edges, and can be finished to a very smooth surface with "red lead"
compound prior to painting. I usually back up the hole with a scrap of
cardboard before applying the epoxy, and remove the cardboard after the
Bondo sets.
Good luck with your project.
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
Amateur Radio AI2Q
http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
.-.-.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Michael E. Williams
Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2003 12:52 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: Holes In Firewall
Listers,
The firewall of my BN1 has a number of holes (maybe a dozen in all) that
should not be there. Some are small but a few are almost an inch in
diameter! Only the PO(s) no what the reasons were for all these holes
(several were for a custom bonnet closure and release mechanism that I have
removed) but it is quite a mess. Some of the larger holes are not even round
so using a blanking plug won't work. Is there a way that these can be
patched? What method could be used? Could it be done with the engine in
place? (the wiring and everything coming through the firewall has been
removed).
--Michael
'55 BN1
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From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 10:13:41 -0400
Subject: Brake drum balancing
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 07:27:03 -0700
Subject: RE: Holes In Firewall
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From Brian Burke <wharf-st at shaw.ca>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 07:30:29 -0700
Subject: Holes in firewall
Brian
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 11:12:53 EDT
Subject: Re: Holes In Firewall
I would first try applying a piece of shim stock to the interior side with
some Devcon or JB weld. THen i would fill the holes on the engine side with
some body filler. Then you could smooth it out and paint. On the inside there
is a piece of tar paper material that will cover up the patch work.
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
IF there are attached files and you are unable to open please use.
<A HREF="http://www.stuffit.com/expander/";>StuffIt Expander: Unzip zip,
access StuffIt filb&</A>
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 10:31:10 -0500
Subject: RE: Holes In Firewall
-----Original Message-----
From: Freese, Ken [mailto:Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com]
Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2003 9:27 AM
To: 'Michael E. Williams'; Healey List
Subject: RE: Holes In Firewall
Michael,
You could make up a polished aluminum sheet to cover up the extra holes like
on a 100S!
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a
name of winmail.dat]
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From "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell at talk21.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 04:31:33 +0100
Subject: BJ7 steering box
Regards
Pete Lovewell BJ7
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From "IRA ERBS" <IErbs at vansd.org>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 10:01:16 -0700
Subject: Re: BJ7 steering box
>>> "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com> 05/14/03 08:31PM >>>
Hello,
Can anyone advise whether it is possible to replace the bush at the end
of the
output shaft on the steering box ie. the one just above the lever
arm,
without having to remove the steering column from the vehicle?
Regards
Pete Lovewell BJ7
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From Olin Kane <kanes at frontier.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 11:51:09 -0600
Subject: Re: BJ7 steering box
It's a job removing the steering column but possible with normal tools.
Olin Kane
BJ7
Durango, CO
At 04:31 AM 5/15/2003 +0100, Peter Lovewell wrote:
>Hello,
>Can anyone advise whether it is possible to replace the bush at the end of the
>output shaft on the steering box ie. the one just above the lever arm,
>without having to remove the steering column from the vehicle?
>
>Regards
>
>Pete Lovewell BJ7
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From "Esko & Megan Cate" <enmcate at attbi.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 11:55:03 -0700
Subject: Parts list to PDF or other electronic form?
Esko
BJ7
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from Hyundai--some of the usual sources make ones that crack immediately.
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 12:36:37 -0700
Subject: Re: BJ7 steering box
I bought a new brake hone and honed my bush to the right size. It took about
half an hour. If your peg shaft is seriously worn at the location of the
bush, this might not work.
The unworn end of the peg shaft just above the splines is a larger diameter
than the worn area by the seal & bush. It would likely be possible to
_carefully_ file or grind the unworn area down to match the dia. of the worn
area. I'm only talking a few thou here.
New peg shafts are available from British sources and maybe from Healey
Surgeons or Hemphills. If you have to have your shaft ground, you'll need to
take it to a crank grinder.
Doing all this the right way is likely to cost at least a couple hundred $.
I did it the "wrong" way, used STP in the box and it hasn't leaked a drop in
a year and a half and 3 thou miles or so.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
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From James E Austin <ahbugeye1 at juno.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 16:01:24 -0400
Subject: hub locknut torque
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From "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson at thicko.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 16:20:34 -0500
Subject: RE: Just in Time video
The DVD's are in!. Cool. I expect to find time to ship them beginning next
week. If you planned or promised to use Paypal, or send a check, and have
not done so, now would be a good time. Thanks to all of you who paid
promptly.
A copy of "Just In Time" was sent via Fed Ex to England in order to arrive
in time for Sunday's luncheon in honor of Roger's life with family, friends,
and club members.
For those of you catching up... the info on the video's content is here.
But, the mailing address and price is different. See below. (Originally it
was done in the early 90's on VHS, now on DVD)
http://www.thicko.com/videos.htm
Cost is $25.oo + 3.95 shipping in the US... toss in a couple extra bucks if
you reside outside the US. All proceeds go to charity. Toss in extra bucks
if you're really feeling generous.
PayPal to
wsthompson@thicko.com
Checks to
Wm. Severin Thompson
20560 W. Woodland Ave.
Lake Villa, IL 60046
USA
Thanks.
WST
Thanks.
WST
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From "Robert D. Hughes" <dhugh at tscnet.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 14:38:55 -0700
Subject: Re: BJ7 steering box
Robert Hughes
65 BJ8
<< I did it the "wrong" way, used STP in the box and it hasn't leaked a drop in
>a year and a half and 3 thou miles or so. >>
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From Olin Kane <kanes at frontier.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 16:16:01 -0600
Subject: Re: BJ7 steering box
Be careful with the hone also. The brake hone will work OK if not very
much material has to be removed. The longer you work with a hone, the less
the bushing looks like a cylinder and the more it looks like an hour glass.
If a lot of meat has to be removed, it's better to do most of it with a
reamer and finish with a hone.
As an aside, if you need to rebuild the steering box, then take a careful
look at the steering idler also. It comes off easily and uses the same
bushings as the steering box.
Olin Kane
BJ7
Durango, CO
At 12:36 PM 5/15/2003 -0700, Steve Gerow wrote:
>Pete,
>Removing the steering shaft & box isn't that hard. Just takes a while. I
>used a $10 Harbor Freight 3-size pickle fork to take the rods off, and a
>cheapo pittman puller from the same source that was a little too wide to do
>the job, but I shimmed up the arm with a cold chisel in between the puller
>and the arm and it worked fine. All of this is easy on the bench but
>impossible under the car. Check the archives for discussion of tie rod boots
>from Hyundai--some of the usual sources make ones that crack immediately.
>
>I bought a new brake hone and honed my bush to the right size. It took about
>half an hour. If your peg shaft is seriously worn at the location of the
>bush, this might not work.
>
>The unworn end of the peg shaft just above the splines is a larger diameter
>than the worn area by the seal & bush. It would likely be possible to
>_carefully_ file or grind the unworn area down to match the dia. of the worn
>area. I'm only talking a few thou here.
>
>New peg shafts are available from British sources and maybe from Healey
>Surgeons or Hemphills. If you have to have your shaft ground, you'll need to
>take it to a crank grinder.
>
>Doing all this the right way is likely to cost at least a couple hundred $.
>I did it the "wrong" way, used STP in the box and it hasn't leaked a drop in
>a year and a half and 3 thou miles or so.
>--
>Steve Gerow
>Pasadena CA
>59 BN6
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 17:37:53 -0500
Subject: Re: Holes In Firewall
Obviously a little low rent, but it all depends on what you want to achieve
and the time and effort you want to take, many possibilities, I jsut thought
I would throw one out at the other end of the spectrum.
If I wasn't going to take the car apart, I would personally probably do the
rubber grommets, even if some of the holes arent exactly round, a grommet of
the aproximately correct size should flex to fit.
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 16:59:40 -0600
Subject: Re: hub locknut torque
Dave Russell
BN2
James E Austin wrote:
> Can someone provide me with the torque requirement for the rear hub
> locknut. I searched the archives and was unable to find this information,
> nor is it listed in the workshop manual. I am also wondering if any type
> gasket dressing is used on the thin paper joint gasket or if it is
> installed as is.
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From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 19:10:36 -0500
Subject: British Car Week Stickers Are Available!!
For those of you who didn't happen to have the opportunity to read my British
Car Week message that was sent to the lists late last week (shame on you), the
British Car Week stickers are now available!! For more details on how to
obtain your own "nifty" British Car Week windscreen sticker, you can point
your mouse to:
http://users.arczip.com/zntech/logo.html
These are really cool, and shouldn't be missed!! Get'em now while supplies
last!!
......okay, back to your regular scheduled British car reading.......
Much thanks,
Scott Helms
http://users.arczip.com/zntech/britishcarweek.html
At 03:37 AM 5/15/2003 richardngordon@comcast.net wrote:
Hi Scott,
Got the new British Car Week stickers today. They are great. I like that they
can put on either side of the glass and are removable and reusable. Put one
on the BT7 for this weekends drive with the Rocky Mountain AH club and one on
the Jeep to advertise. Nice job!
Richard
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From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 19:25:41 -0500
Subject: Trying to find clutch part
I am looking for what is called a pedal clevis. This is the piece that
threads onto the master cylinder pushrod, and "straddles" the pedal. Then
you put the clevis pin through it and secure with a cotter pin. Anyone know
the part I am talking about? I know that I can order one, but I swear that
I saw one in a bubble pack at a local auto store...Forged Pedal Clevis is
what it said. The Help! brand by Motormite is what I thoughtI saw it in,
but I can't find anyone local that knows what I am talking about. Anyone
have a part number or suggestion...besides going to the salvage yard for a
$2 part? I already looked through the Motormite catalog with no luck.
Thanks,
Chris
BJ8
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 18:09:40 -0700
Subject: Re: BJ7 steering box
Coupla reactions:
My boots were shot, but the pickle fork was tight enough it hardly touched
the boots. I'd used Sili Kroil on the nuts before and the tie rod came
undone relatively easily.
I like owning the tools and these cost about $17 total.
As I recall, I removed about 10 thousandths with the hone. I agree the
method is not the best, but the bush cost only a few bucks and I figured if
I screwed up, I could always do it the expensive way. I just kept honing and
testing with the pittman shaft.
The main thing that I didn't take into account was the larger diameter of
the unworn part of the pittman shaft which had to go thru the hole in the
bush, and then rattled when the worn part aligned with the bush. It would be
easy to file or grind this small area down--so the worn part would be the
largest diameter of the shaft which has to go through the bush. I'd use duct
tape to mask off the critical area to avoid any scratches.
Maybe my steering idler had been replaced before--it had no leakage or
noticeable play.
Another interesting thing--the seals from both Moss and VB are a new type, a
very thin Chicago Rawhide seal. I thought the one from Moss looked wimpy and
someone here said the larger, original, style was available from VB so I
ordered one there too.
They were both the same and there was plenty of room, so I stacked them both
in one on top of the other. No leakage.
I heard last weekend about a place called Metro Rubber, I think, that sells
good rubber parts for the Healeys that don't crack.
Another possibility would be to install a Speedi-Sleeve or a Redi-Sleeve on
the shaft after it was mounted in the box--outside the bush. This could fix
a rough sealing groove. Haven't done this.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
>
> You can remove the rods with a pickle fork but it's a crude method and
> generally ruins the boots. A better way is to go to Autozone and they will
> loan you a set of pittman pullers free that will do a much better job. They
> have a nice tool loan program, gear pullers, etc.
>
> Be careful with the hone also. The brake hone will work OK if not very
> much material has to be removed. The longer you work with a hone, the less
> the bushing looks like a cylinder and the more it looks like an hour glass.
> If a lot of meat has to be removed, it's better to do most of it with a
> reamer and finish with a hone.
>
> As an aside, if you need to rebuild the steering box, then take a careful
> look at the steering idler also. It comes off easily and uses the same
> bushings as the steering box.
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From WC1996 at aol.com
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 21:15:44 EDT
Subject: Steering Wheel
Any suggestions (short of removing and painting) for getting a faded bakelite
steering wheel back to black? Can I use black shoe polish on it?
Alan
100/4 BN2
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From Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 18:36:11 -0700
Subject: steering weel
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 18:43:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Trying to find clutch part
I don't know if this will help you, but you can start
with this:
http://www.motormitedormancatalog.com
And then get your local parts supplier to order what
you need..
Good Luck,
Alan
--- Chris Masucci <sooch@houston.rr.com> wrote:
> Hi guys,
>
> I am looking for what is called a pedal clevis.
> This is the piece that
> threads onto the master cylinder pushrod, and
> "straddles" the pedal. Then
> you put the clevis pin through it and secure with a
> cotter pin. Anyone know
> the part I am talking about? I know that I can
> order one, but I swear that
> I saw one in a bubble pack at a local auto
> store...Forged Pedal Clevis is
> what it said. The Help! brand by Motormite is what
> I thoughtI saw it in,
> but I can't find anyone local that knows what I am
> talking about. Anyone
> have a part number or suggestion...besides going to
> the salvage yard for a
> $2 part? I already looked through the Motormite
> catalog with no luck.
>
> Thanks,
> Chris
> BJ8
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From MeditionM at netscape.net
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 16 May 2003 02:47:42 -0400
Subject: RE: hub locknut torque
James E Austin <ahbugeye1@juno.com> wrote:
>Can someone provide me with the torque requirement for the rear hub
>locknut. I searched the archives and was unable to find this information,
>nor is it listed in the workshop manual. I am also wondering if any type
>gasket dressing is used on the thin paper joint gasket or if it is
>installed as is.
__________________________________________________________________
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From MeditionM at netscape.net
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 16 May 2003 02:56:07 -0400
Subject: RE: Trying to find clutch part
"Chris Masucci" <sooch@houston.rr.com> wrote:
>Hi guys,
>
>I am looking for what is called a pedal clevis. This is the piece that
>threads onto the master cylinder pushrod, and "straddles" the pedal. Then
>you put the clevis pin through it and secure with a cotter pin. Anyone know
>the part I am talking about? I know that I can order one, but I swear that
>I saw one in a bubble pack at a local auto store...Forged Pedal Clevis is
>what it said. The Help! brand by Motormite is what I thoughtI saw it in,
>but I can't find anyone local that knows what I am talking about. Anyone
>have a part number or suggestion...besides going to the salvage yard for a
>$2 part? I already looked through the Motormite catalog with no luck.
>
>Thanks,
>Chris
>BJ8
__________________________________________________________________
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From "tfelts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 08:09:20 -0400
Subject: Fw: VSCDA Member
Our thoughts are with Sherry now.
Tom
-----Original Message-----
From: Wm. Severin Thompson <wsthompson@thicko.com>
To: Vintage-Race <vintage-race@autox.team.net>; Healeys@Autox.Team.Net
<healeys@autox.team.net>; Team-Thicko@Autox.Team.Net
<team-thicko@autox.team.net>
Date: Sunday, May 11, 2003 8:01 PM
Subject: FW: VSCDA Member
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Judy Cull [mailto:vscda@iserv.net]
>Sent: Sunday, May 11, 2003 5:16 PM
>To: Rick Gurolnick; Carl Braun; Lowell Blossom; John Golanty;
>baxterbeat@earthlink.com; fisherj@voyager.net
>Subject: VSCDA Member
>
>
>For those of you who raced with Gary Dewey in Group 3 at Grattan or worked
>with his at Spring Brake 2003 as an instructor, I have some not good news.
>
>Gary died yesterday from a heart attack. He was in his very early 50's
like
>52 I think.
>
>His wife is Sherrie
>Address is:
>9780 Rolling Hills Dr
>Alto, MI 49302
>
>There will be a Memorial Service this Wed.
>
>Judy
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From Bill Rister <brister at hal-pc.org>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 16 May 2003 06:43:35 -0700
Subject: Re: Steering Wheel
- Bill
'60 BT7 '61 AN5
WC1996@aol.com wrote:
>I know this subject has probably come up before, but I do not remember seeing
>it.
>
>Any suggestions (short of removing and painting) for getting a faded bakelite
>steering wheel back to black? Can I use black shoe polish on it?
>
>Alan
>100/4 BN2
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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 16 May 2003 06:21:10 -0500
Subject: Suggestions for protection from hail damage when car is parked
As I am in Texas, I live in fear of hailstorms. I have thought of putting
some thick foam rubber padding or similar under the cover, but, this would
absorb water that made its way through the cover.
Any Suggestions from the group?
Please respond to bc1@sbcglobal.net
Thanks in advance,
Brian Collins
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From alan at andysnet.net
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 16 May 2003 07:27:49 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: Suggestions for protection from hail damage when car is
Alan HBJ8L/34297 (Aint-it-fun)
> For the time being, I am parking my Healey outside until I make space in
> the
> garage. I have a new "weatherproof" cover for it and as the top is not
> yet
> on the car, just the top bows to give some shape to the cover and the
> tonneau are on the car.
>
> As I am in Texas, I live in fear of hailstorms. I have thought of putting
> some thick foam rubber padding or similar under the cover, but, this would
> absorb water that made its way through the cover.
>
> Any Suggestions from the group?
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From "Bill Park" <bpark at ebtech.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 16 May 2003 08:28:13 -0400
Subject: Re: Suggestions for protection from hail damage when car is
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 16 May 2003 10:18:53 -0400
Subject: Re:
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Park" <bpark@ebtech.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 16, 2003 8:28 AM
> Help! I have broken a piston in my 100/4! I discovered pieces in the sump
> while doing an oil change. No noises, oil burning, or loss of compression.
> Rather than do a whole engine job, I'd like to try to replace only this
> piston. The engine was rebuilt about 10 years ago - new rings, bearings,
but
> same rods and pistons. Does anyone have a spare piston - 3 or 4 rings?
Thanks.
> ( This is my first posting to the list, although I've been a subscriber
for a
> year, and I've owned my healey since 1978.)
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 16 May 2003 09:21:20 -0700
Subject: Metro Rubber Parts
Email me off-list if you'd like a copy.
I sent one to Jim Werner and hopefully he'll post it on his web site.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
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From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 16 May 2003 12:40:50 EDT
Subject: Re: Steering Wheel
Even though most of the plastic type parts on your car are Bakelite, the
steering wheel rim isn't one of them. What I have used on Bakelite in the
past is either shoe polish or India ink. The shoe polish will help to
re-moisturize the Bakelite part but will not do a very good job of dying it
black. Remember from my other posts and articles that Bakelite is a natural
plastic and usually has a filler in it i.e., wood or saw dust, and thus will
dry out with age.
India ink does a better job of blackening the part, but the best product that
I have found is "Fiebing's" Leather Dye, which can be found at most hardware
stores, shoe care and repair shops. You might try this on the rim, but I
don't know how well it will work since the plastic rim is not as porous as
Bakelite.
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5 :{)
In a message dated 5/15/03 6:23:02 PM Pacific Daylight Time, WC1996@aol.com
writes:
<< I know this subject has probably come up before, but I do not remember
seeing it.
Any suggestions (short of removing and painting) for getting a faded bakelite
steering wheel back to black? Can I use black shoe polish on it?
Alan
100/4 BN2 >>
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 16 May 2003 10:09:23 -0700
Subject: to Those who requested rubber parts list
This will take a day or two.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
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From "eugene faust" <ejfaust at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 16 May 2003 18:09:39 -0400
Subject: Front Shocks
Gene
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 16 May 2003 18:42:45 -0400
Subject: RE: Front Shocks
I would advise against trying to remove the arms from one shock to
install them on another. One comes off easily but the other is not meant
to be removed. If the shocks that you were hoping to use have different
arms then they will be different shocks with different rates and
probably will not be suitable for your Healey.
Heating any suspension parts is not advisable but is however often done
and in most cases you will get away with it.
I would recommend that you save your shekels and get a pair of rebuilt
shocks from a reliable supplier. Having the front end of your Healey
come apart at speed is not likely to be a pleasant experience.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
BTW it is seldom necessary to heat the outer trunnion to get the bolt
out. The problem is that the bolt jams when you apply pressure as a
result of the bending of the arms. If you place a heavy lump of steel on
the arm next to the head of the bolt you will usually find that he bolt
is easily driven out by tapping on the threaded end I usually leave the
nut but loosened a few turns on to avoid crushing the threads.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of eugene faust
Sent: 16-May-03 6:10 PM
To: Healeys
Subject: Front Shocks
I need to replace the front shocks on my BN2. In order to remove the
upper trunnion bolts I had to use the heat wrench to get the end of
the shock arm red hot before I could drive the bolts out. Subsequently,
I was told that I probably weakened the shock arm and should not reuse
the arm. Is this true?
If its true then I have another problem. I have a pair of new shocks
but the shock arms are about = inch shorter that the arms on the shocks
I removed from the Healey. My plan was to use the old arms on the new
shocks and it looks like I am going to have to use the heat wrench to
remove both the old and new arms off their respective shocks.
Any thoughts out there?
Gene
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 16 May 2003 17:37:36 -0600
Subject: Re: Front Shocks
The non clamped arm is not designed to be easily removed, I wouldn't try
it. Above all, don't apply any heat to the shock.
Either the new shocks or the old ones are the wrong model for your car.
Similar shocks were used on other cars but they have different arm
lengths. The stock shock arms on my BN2 measure about 8.5 inches c to c.
You need to measure & find out which of yours are the correct shocks.
Shocks which have shorter than standard arms (from another car model)
are sometimes used on race cars to reduce camber, but not on a stock car.
I suggest that you invest in a shop manual for your car & read it before
doing any further damage, & put the heat wrench away.
Good luck,
Dave Russell
eugene faust wrote:
> I need to replace the front shocks on my BN2. In order to remove the
> upper trunnion bolts I had to use the heat wrench to get the end of
> the shock arm red hot before I could drive the bolts out. Subsequently,
> I was told that I probably weakened the shock arm and should not reuse
> the arm. Is this true?
> If its true then I have another problem. I have a pair of new shocks
> but the shock arms are about = inch shorter that the arms on the shocks
> I removed from the Healey. My plan was to use the old arms on the new
> shocks and it looks like I am going to have to use the heat wrench to
> remove both the old and new arms off their respective shocks.
> Any thoughts out there?
>
> Gene
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From Chris Dimmock <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 17 May 2003 09:43:41 +1000
Subject: Re: Front Shocks
Scroll down to the article on front suspension, camber & tyres.
http://www.myaustinhealey.com/Austin_Healey_technical_articles.html
1/2 an inch reduction in arm length is nearly 3 degrees - so if you had 1
degree positive camber when you started - fitting those shocks will give you
lots of negative camber (I have the same shocks). I suspect the shocks with
short arms came off a Wolseley sedan. You should NEVER need to put heat on a
shock arm to remove a bolt (just drive it out) - and the 'fixed arm' is
connected to the shaft by fine spines, and you'll need a press to remove it.
If you try to heat it, you'll fry the shaft seal.
Hope this helps
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "eugene faust" <ejfaust@worldnet.att.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 17, 2003 8:09 AM
Subject: Front Shocks
> I need to replace the front shocks on my BN2. In order to remove the
> upper trunnion bolts I had to use the heat wrench to get the end of
> the shock arm red hot before I could drive the bolts out. Subsequently,
> I was told that I probably weakened the shock arm and should not reuse
> the arm. Is this true?
> If its true then I have another problem. I have a pair of new shocks
> but the shock arms are about = inch shorter that the arms on the shocks
> I removed from the Healey. My plan was to use the old arms on the new
> shocks and it looks like I am going to have to use the heat wrench to
> remove both the old and new arms off their respective shocks.
> Any thoughts out there?
>
> Gene
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From "James R. Holekamp" <jholekamp at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 16 May 2003 21:20:47 -0500
Subject: overdirve malfunction
Dr ;-) Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com"
To acquire an Oil Pressure Gauge for the A Type Overdrive see:
http://www.geocities.com/jholekamp/index.html
This tool will make it possible to check the oil pressure per the
workshop manual, with the overdrive unit still in the car. Overdrive oil
pressure or lack of, is a key diagnostic indication.
brgds, Jay
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From James E Austin <ahbugeye1 at juno.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 17 May 2003 11:38:45 -0400
Subject: Re: hub locknut torque
Sam Austin
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 17 May 2003 09:17:44 -0700
Subject: Last Call for Rubber Parts List
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 17 May 2003 17:08:23 +0000
Subject: Healey Rendevous @ Eureka road trip
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From Andrew Katz <andrewk at limitedslip.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 17 May 2003 16:35:00 -0600
Subject: BJ7 glazing rubber #!@## trouble
I'm new to the list but have already found the archives useful, so I
thank you already for the help!
I have a BJ7 and am reworking the windows. I got the window out of it's
metal frame (it was falling out on one side) and cleaned up the frame
and the window. I have the glazing rubber from Moss and am trying to
get the window back into the frame using the glazing rubber. I taped
the rubber to the window and am trying to press it into the frame, BUT
WITH NO LUCK :-(
Is there a trick to getting this to work? I assume it is basically a
compression fit, But just pushing on it isn't working.
Any ideas?
thanks -- Andrew
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From Andrew Katz <andrewk at limitedslip.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 17 May 2003 16:42:01 -0600
Subject: BJ7 glazing rubber trouble
I'm new to the list but have already found the archives useful, so I
thank you already for the help!
I have a BJ7 and am reworking the windows. I got the window out of it's
metal frame (it was falling out on one side) and cleaned up the frame
and the window. I have the glazing rubber from Moss and am trying to
get the window back into the frame using the glazing rubber. I taped
the rubber to the window and am trying to press it into the frame, BUT
WITH NO LUCK :-(
Is there a trick to getting this to work? I assume it is basically a
compression fit, But just pushing on it isn't working.
Any ideas?
thanks -- Andrew
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From Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 17 May 2003 18:47:29 -0400
Subject: oil pressure again
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 17 May 2003 18:53:23 -0400
Subject: Re: BJ7 glazing rubber #!@## trouble
I didn't see the mention of lots of soapy water, which is very helpful in
cases like this.
--
John Miller
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 17 May 2003 17:05:16 -0700
Subject: Rubber List Keeps Bouncing Along
If you are having problems opening the attachments, they are Acrobat PDF
format. If they aren't opening properly from within your email program or by
double-clicking, then open Adobe Acrobat Reader first, then navigate to the
file from within the Open dialog, open from there.
Thank you for your patience. I've received so many emails I can't respond to
any of them personally.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
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From "Pete Ryner" <pryner at interfold.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 17 May 2003 18:54:13 -0600
Subject: RE: BJ7 glazing rubber #!@## trouble
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From "Bob, Kim, Rob, Bandit and Pepper" <thewalkers at qwest.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 17 May 2003 18:22:54 -0700
Subject: Body Work Tools
Thank you and best regards,
Bob Walker
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 17 May 2003 22:08:49 EDT
Subject: Re: Body Work Tools
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From DrBerkowitz at aol.com
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 17 May 2003 23:39:27 -0400
Subject: further overdrive malfunction symptoms
After reading some of the responses I thought of the following other symptoms:
After the unit engages overdrive it never drops out unless I shift it out.
The other thing that I have noticed is if I pop the clutch from a stand still
it feels like something is slipping in the drive train. The engine, clutch
and transmission are all new or recently rebuilt. My thought is that perhaps
whatever is causing the O.D. to shift the way it does is also causing the
slippage.
Please post comments. THanks
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 18 May 2003 02:47:07 EDT
Subject: Re: further overdrive malfunction symptoms
Rick
San Diego.
In a message dated 5/17/03 20:42:21, DrBerkowitz@aol.com writes:
<< When up or downshifting the O.D. it feels like something lets go before it
actually engages. The only way to up shift into O.D. is to let off the gas
pedal and then hit the switch. To downshift out of O.D. I have to depress the
clutch hit the switch and rev the engine. The O.D. never drops out while
driving. Any suggestions. Also does any one know of someone, preferable on
or near Long Island, that can bench test an overdrive. I have a second unit
which I have never used. I just don't want to do the switch unless I know it
works.
After reading some of the responses I thought of the following other symptoms:
After the unit engages overdrive it never drops out unless I shift it out.
The other thing that I have noticed is if I pop the clutch from a stand still
it feels like something is slipping in the drive train. The engine, clutch
and transmission are all new or recently rebuilt. My thought is that perhaps
whatever is causing the O.D. to shift the way it does is also causing the
slippage.
Please post comments. THanks >>
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From "Warren Dietz" <flyhihealey at hotmail.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 18 May 2003 06:57:29 -0400
Subject: Re: BJ7 glazing rubber #!@## trouble
Warren- 67 BJ8
> > I have a BJ7 and am reworking the windows. I got the window out of it's
> > metal frame (it was falling out on one side) and cleaned up the frame
> > and the window. I have the glazing rubber from Moss and am trying to
> > get the window back into the frame using the glazing rubber. I taped
> > the rubber to the window and am trying to press it into the frame, BUT
> > WITH NO LUCK :-(
>
>I didn't see the mention of lots of soapy water, which is very helpful in
>cases like this.
>--
>John Miller
_________________________________________________________________
Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*.
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From tom mitchell <3000mk3 at bighealey.org>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 18 May 2003 08:29:30 -0400
Subject: Re: BJ7 glazing rubber #!@## trouble
I know there are many ways to accomplish this, yet this process worked for me.
Their suggestion was to use four small ratchet straps to pull the window
into place. Two in each direction. Worked like a charm. You can get these
straps almost anywhere.
____________ _____________
(_______ \_______________/ ______ )
(_____ Tom Mitchell ____)
(SouthEast Michigan Austin Healey Club)
(mailto:tommitchell@bighealey.org )
At 04:35 PM 5/17/2003 -0600, Andrew Katz wrote:
>Hi all,
>
>I'm new to the list but have already found the archives useful, so I
>thank you already for the help!
>
>I have a BJ7 and am reworking the windows. I got the window out of it's
>metal frame (it was falling out on one side) and cleaned up the frame
>and the window. I have the glazing rubber from Moss and am trying to
>get the window back into the frame using the glazing rubber. I taped
>the rubber to the window and am trying to press it into the frame, BUT
>WITH NO LUCK :-(
>
>Is there a trick to getting this to work? I assume it is basically a
>compression fit, But just pushing on it isn't working.
>
>Any ideas?
>
>thanks -- Andrew
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From Rebeltown at aol.com
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 18 May 2003 08:47:40 EDT
Subject: Re: BJ7 glazing rubber #!@## trouble
Gary Shunk '67 BJ8 #38427 N.J.
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From "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino at ripnet.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 18 May 2003 10:11:07 -0400
Subject: heater box
I am looking at the schematic in the M*** catalogue and it looks like the box
is attached to the firewall by bolts but in looking in the engine compartment
I can't see anything coming through. I am getting a little to old (not as
flexible as I used to be) to get up under the dash and I would like to avoid
removing the facia panel if at all.
Thanks
Carl
BN-4-(L), 1957
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From "Jim McDermott" <jmcd206 at msn.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 18 May 2003 10:34:03 -0700
Subject: Re: heater box
There are 2 bolts and 4 screws that hold the heater box in. All are within
the cockpit, none go through the firewall. The 2 screws are in the lower
part of the "L" channel on either side of the box and they go into captive
nuts in the air box the runs across the Cockpit side of the firewall. The
two bolts go through the top of the "L" channel on either side and attach to
a tab that comes from the top of the cowel (sp).
I just put one in yesterday and it is much easier with the Facia off.
Jim McDermott
BN4
>From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
>Reply-To: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
>To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: heater box
>Date: Sun, 18 May 2003 10:11:07 -0400
>
>The heater box has come loose a little and bounces when I hit a bump.
>
>I am looking at the schematic in the M*** catalogue and it looks like the
>box
>is attached to the firewall by bolts but in looking in the engine
>compartment
>I can't see anything coming through. I am getting a little to old (not as
>flexible as I used to be) to get up under the dash and I would like to
>avoid
>removing the facia panel if at all.
>
>Thanks
>
>Carl
>BN-4-(L), 1957
_________________________________________________________________
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 18 May 2003 18:24:08 -0600
Subject: Re: further overdrive malfunction symptoms
I know that you have received quite a few responses on the OD problem.
There is one that nobody has mentioned. I copied it directly from Moss
Motors "Tech tips" & pasted it below with credit to Ken Gillanders. It
does describe several of your symptoms (the car) & is fairly easy to
check. The other possibility is a defective Sprague clutch which is not
so easy to fix.
Regards,
Dave Russell
BN2
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Tech Tips/Assistance
Please Select a Tech Tip Article
<< Austin-Healey 100, 3000 << Overdrive << Overdrive Faults - A-type
(By viewing these technical notes, you agree with the terms stated in
our disclaimer.)
Overdrive Faults
Fully 90% of overdrive problems that are not electrical faults are
traceable to either the gear oil level being tool low, or an improper
adjustment of the solenoid, so we'll skip these and concentrates on the
others.
An overdrive that fails to engage can sometime be traced to dirt between
the check ball and seat in the pressure regulator valve, or sometimes to
a badly worn pump. Both are quite rare, though possible, so don't
overlook them. Worn or broken rings on the operating pistons or the
accumulator piston can make for a lazy-shifting or slipping unit.
----However, the real winner is a partially or completely blocked bypass
port in the operating valve. The valve, which is activated by the
solenoid through the operating shaft and lever, has a small hole bored
in it (about .018") which is very easily blocked by dirt, etc. The
results of blockage can be really fun to find. First, partial or
intermittent blocking results in slow engagement, but most noticeable is
that there is no compression-assisted slowdown. The unit appears to hang
between overdrive and direct drive and feels like it is not in gear.
Basically, what is happening is that the partially blocked valve will
not allow the oil to return to the sump fast enough, and the pressure
build-up above the valve tries to engage the overdrive while the unit's
springs try to engage directly, and there we hang beween the two. The
fun begins when the bypass port becomes completely blocked. Above a
certain speed, the pressure above the valve becomes high enough to
engage overdrive, no matter what you do or where the switch is.
Fortunately, the valve blockage is easy to repair. With the transmission
tunnel removed, the access to the valve is on the right side of the top
of the overdrive unit and is under a 7/16" plug. Under the plug is a
spring and check ball assembly which can be removed with a small magnet.
After it is cleaned, it can simply be set back in place, hole-in end
facing up, followed by the ball and spring assembly. It is very
straightforward and easy to remedy once you find it.
Ken Gillanders
Temple City, CA
-----------------------------------------------------------------
DrBerkowitz@aol.com wrote:
> I recently posted the following: When up or downshifting the O.D. it
> feels like something lets go before it actually engages. The only
> way to up shift into O.D. is to let off the gas pedal and then hit
> the switch. To downshift out of O.D. I have to depress the clutch hit
> the switch and rev the engine. The O.D. never drops out while
> driving. Any suggestions. The other thing that I have noticed is
> if I pop the clutch from a stand still it feels like something is
> slipping in the drive train.
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From tom mitchell <3000mk3 at bighealey.org>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 18 May 2003 20:44:18 -0400
Subject: Re: BJ7 glazing rubber #!@## trouble
I'm guessing Feb or March issue.
I hope this helps
____________ _____________
(_______ \_______________/ ______ )
(_____ Tom Mitchell ____)
(SouthEast Michigan Austin Healey Club)
(mailto:tommitchell@bighealey.org )
At 10:48 AM 5/18/2003 -0600, M.E. & E.A. Driver wrote:
>Hi Tom
>
>Which newsletter are you specifically referring to? Could you provide this
>reference?
>
>Kind regards
>Ed
>
>
>tom mitchell wrote:
>
> > Andrew,
> > One of the Healey newsletters about four months ago had a complete
> > description on the process from beginning to end. I have it around here
> > somewhere.....It might be out in my garage, since I was using it. Let me
> > know and I'll see if I can dig it up.
> >
> > I know there are many ways to accomplish this, yet this process worked
> for me.
> > Their suggestion was to use four small ratchet straps to pull the window
> > into place. Two in each direction. Worked like a charm. You can get these
> > straps almost anywhere.
> >
> > ____________ _____________
> > (_______ \_______________/ ______ )
> > (_____ Tom Mitchell ____)
> > (SouthEast Michigan Austin Healey Club)
> > (mailto:tommitchell@bighealey.org )
> >
> > At 04:35 PM 5/17/2003 -0600, Andrew Katz wrote:
> > >Hi all,
> > >
> > >I'm new to the list but have already found the archives useful, so I
> > >thank you already for the help!
> > >
> > >I have a BJ7 and am reworking the windows. I got the window out of it's
> > >metal frame (it was falling out on one side) and cleaned up the frame
> > >and the window. I have the glazing rubber from Moss and am trying to
> > >get the window back into the frame using the glazing rubber. I taped
> > >the rubber to the window and am trying to press it into the frame, BUT
> > >WITH NO LUCK :-(
> > >
> > >Is there a trick to getting this to work? I assume it is basically a
> > >compression fit, But just pushing on it isn't working.
> > >
> > >Any ideas?
> > >
> > >thanks -- Andrew
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From Charlie Baldwin <ewsinc at suscom.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 18 May 2003 20:51:51 -0400
Subject: Re: further overdrive malfunction symptoms
DrBerkowitz@aol.com wrote:
>I recently posted the following:
>When up or downshifting the O.D. it feels like something lets go before it
>actually engages. The only way to up shift into O.D. is to let off the gas
>pedal and then hit the switch. To downshift out of O.D. I have to depress the
>clutch hit the switch and rev the engine. The O.D. never drops out while
>driving. Any suggestions. Also does any one know of someone, preferable on
>or near Long Island, that can bench test an overdrive. I have a second unit
>which I have never used. I just don't want to do the switch unless I know it
>works.
>
>After reading some of the responses I thought of the following other symptoms:
> After the unit engages overdrive it never drops out unless I shift it out.
>The other thing that I have noticed is if I pop the clutch from a stand still
>it feels like something is slipping in the drive train. The engine, clutch
>and transmission are all new or recently rebuilt. My thought is that perhaps
>whatever is causing the O.D. to shift the way it does is also causing the
>slippage.
>Please post comments. THanks
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 18 May 2003 18:37:57 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: BJ7 glazing rubber #!@## trouble
Working with the glazing rubber that Moss and the
other suppliers sell seems to always be too thick and
too difficult to work with.
After futzing with my BJ8 windows for a few days, I
finally trashed the supplied glazing rubber and went
and got a bicycle inner tube, split it on the inside
seam, and seated the window in the cut tube with black
silicone, and then tapped it into the channel, which
also had a bead of black silicone in it. After the
silicone sets, cut off the excess silicone and tube
rubber with a blade... and it'll look like a factory
job and take you about 10 minutes to do!!
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Andrew Katz <andrewk@limitedslip.com> wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I'm new to the list but have already found the
> archives useful, so I
> thank you already for the help!
>
> I have a BJ7 and am reworking the windows. I got the
> window out of it's
> metal frame (it was falling out on one side) and
> cleaned up the frame
> and the window. I have the glazing rubber from Moss
> and am trying to
> get the window back into the frame using the glazing
> rubber. I taped
> the rubber to the window and am trying to press it
> into the frame, BUT
> WITH NO LUCK :-(
>
> Is there a trick to getting this to work? I assume
> it is basically a
> compression fit, But just pushing on it isn't
> working.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> thanks -- Andrew
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 18 May 2003 23:10:48 -0600
Subject: Interesting OD problems
I ran into a couple of interesting problems today. Maybe someone else
has had the same thing happen. Maybe the later Healeys didn't have the
problem O ring?
My AH BN2 started failing to shift out of OD after many miles of perfect
operation. The operating lever which the solenoid moves was so stiff in
operation that it would not return to the non OD position. There is only
a light spring on top of the ball valve to return the assembly. After
about a hour of working the shaft with penetrating oil & no improvement,
I removed the LH outer cover where the lever exits & the O ring shaft
seal had apparently swelled enough to cause very stiff shaft operation.
I reamed out the seal ID slightly to get free shaft operation, reset the
ball valve travel & all is well.
While I was at it I discovered that the rubber stop bumper which limits
de-energized travel of the solenoid was missing. Having no idea about
proper bumper thickness, I just put a bumper in which looked about
right. Test drove & found that when shifting out of OD it would free
wheel. Removed the too thick bumper & everything is fine. The bumper was
limiting the down stroke of the operating valve & the ball was still
blocking the relief port in the center of the valve so that the OD
operating pistons could not fully retract. Not sure about the need for
the bumper. Later models have a screw stop adjustment. The shop manual
gives a clearance of .25" but it doesn't seem to hurt anything for the
solenoid to drop down further. I think that the car has gone many miles
without the rubber bumper with no problems.
Dave Russell
BN2
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From Larry Hewlett <hewlettlj at shaw.ca>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 18 May 2003 22:24:35 -0700
Subject: On The Road
Finished putting it together last night and entered a local car show today. Won
1st in sports car class so needless to say am very satisfied with the result.
Thanks to all those on the List who have assisted me with their advice and
opinions. The List is such a great resource to draw from.
Regards
Larry Hewlett
BJ7
Peachland, B.C.
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 00:33:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: MP3 installation
I was thinking of connecting it using an earphone jack
to RCA adaptor with my existing Amplifier already in
the car.
Has anyone made this conversion? Any tips?
I figure it's perfect because I'll be able to keep the
facia looking original if I do this.
Thanks in Advance,
Alan
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 00:40:41 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Waxoyl Question
My BJ8 is with me here in Hong Kong, and it is very
humid here. I am now thinking that spraying waxoyl in
lots of places on the frame, bolts and nuts, and in
the engine compartment is a good idea.
A few questions for those who have used it:
1) Will WAXOYL remove/treat existing rust?
2) Will it keep out the moisture in a super-humid
climate... or am I better of NOT using WAXOYL in this
case (i.e. I don't want to trap water between air
pockets in the WAXOYL and my car).
3) is this stuff easy to apply?
Thanks for your advice and any other suggestions you
may have will be appreciated.
Thanks,
Alan
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From John Harper <AH at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 08:06:48 +0100
Subject: Re: Interesting OD problems
Please see below
>
>I ran into a couple of interesting problems today. Maybe someone else
>has had the same thing happen. Maybe the later Healeys didn't have the
>problem O ring?
>
>My AH BN2 started failing to shift out of OD after many miles of perfect
>operation. The operating lever which the solenoid moves was so stiff in
>operation that it would not return to the non OD position. There is only
>a light spring on top of the ball valve to return the assembly. After
>about a hour of working the shaft with penetrating oil & no improvement,
>I removed the LH outer cover where the lever exits & the O ring shaft
>seal had apparently swelled enough to cause very stiff shaft operation.
>I reamed out the seal ID slightly to get free shaft operation, reset the
>ball valve travel & all is well.
>
>While I was at it I discovered that the rubber stop bumper which limits
>de-energized travel of the solenoid was missing. Having no idea about
>proper bumper thickness, I just put a bumper in which looked about
>right. Test drove & found that when shifting out of OD it would free
>wheel. Removed the too thick bumper & everything is fine. The bumper was
>limiting the down stroke of the operating valve & the ball was still
>blocking the relief port in the center of the valve so that the OD
>operating pistons could not fully retract. Not sure about the need for
>the bumper. Later models have a screw stop adjustment. The shop manual
>gives a clearance of .25" but it doesn't seem to hurt anything for the
>solenoid to drop down further.
It does matter a great deal. If the solenoid plunger gets too low it may
not be lifted when current is applied to the coil. This leaves the high
current coil in circuit and often leads to the solenoid being burnt out.
On my own cars I have replaced this buffer with a screw and lock nut
after cutting a thread in the hole. You can then adjust the clearance
accurately.
All the best
> I think that the car has gone many miles
>without the rubber bumper with no problems.
>
>Dave Russell
>BN2
>
--
John Harper
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 12:55:03 +0100
Subject: Re: Interesting OD problems
FYI, this is what is fitted on my '67 BJ8. I was concerned that this
might not be original, but it turns out that it is probably a late
factory mod on the earlier rubber bumper.
These pics may help if you are going to re-engineer your stop.
http://www.proaxis.demon.co.uk/healey/
--
Alan F Cross
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From "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson at earthlink.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 05:15:45 -0700
Subject: RE: MP3 installation
Best,
Greg
67 BJ8
> -----Original Message-----
>
> I'm thinking of trashing my CD player (it's broken
> anyway) and simply using a portable MP3 player as my
> stereo receiver. I can buy very cool portable battery
> powered units here in Hong Kong (i.e. SARS city) from
> $100- $300 depending on the brand.
>
> I was thinking of connecting it using an earphone jack
> to RCA adaptor with my existing Amplifier already in
> the car.
>
> Has anyone made this conversion? Any tips?
>
> I figure it's perfect because I'll be able to keep the
> facia looking original if I do this.
>
> Thanks in Advance,
>
> Alan
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 22:42:02 +1000
Subject: Re: MP3 installation
Don't ask me! I've only had a spin off oil filter for a few years - and I
still only have an AM radio!!
Ever notice how AM Radios only play 60's music anyway? That's what I call a
"Period accessory!"
You'll NEVER hear eminem whining and bleating about his mother on AM radio.
Well - I haven't - but then again, I don't get to hear much over the side
exhaust, and the induction roar of triple webers.....
But I just recently got one of those Elvis multi-jointed dancin' dolls (like
on the Audi Advert) for the windscreen though -
http://www.scores.de/movie/elvis_audi_werbung.shtml
Now that's Cool!
If Healers were meant to play MP3 rap music - they wouldn't have invented
multjointed Elvis dolls!
: )
And with a 300 degree cam, and triple webers - Elvis IS dancing on the
Healey dash at the traffic lights!! And even the
baseball-cap-on-backwards-hyundai/honda/toyota(insert-your-favourite-rice-bo
y-brand-here)-drivin-homeboys - with eminem blaring from their 90,000,000
hyperwatt stereos - (I don't know how to convert watts to horsepower or
torque - but I'm positive that their stereo 'power' exceeds their rear wheel
horse'power'...) - are still reduced to a smile at the lights......
Best regards
Chris
'The King' is alive and well and on my dashboard...........
----- Original Message -----
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 19, 2003 5:33 PM
Subject: MP3 installation
> I'm thinking of trashing my CD player (it's broken
> anyway) and simply using a portable MP3 player as my
> stereo receiver. I can buy very cool portable battery
> powered units here in Hong Kong (i.e. SARS city) from
> $100- $300 depending on the brand.
>
> I was thinking of connecting it using an earphone jack
> to RCA adaptor with my existing Amplifier already in
> the car.
>
> Has anyone made this conversion? Any tips?
>
> I figure it's perfect because I'll be able to keep the
> facia looking original if I do this.
>
> Thanks in Advance,
>
> Alan
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From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 08:50:08 -0500
Subject: Waxoyl Question
>WAXOYL is exactly what the name implies. It is oil with some wax in
>it. I mixed up a batch using mineral oil, 30 weight motor oil and
>parafin. I used some mineral spirits to adjust the consistency between
>painting and spraying.
>
>1) Will WAXOYL remove/treat existing rust?
It will not remove rust by itself but will treat it and stop further oxidation.
>2) Will it keep out the moisture in a super-humid
>climate..
Yes, the oil provides a barrier against oxidation. The wax holds the oil
in place.
>3) is this stuff easy to apply? It can be painted or sprayed.
I experimented with a raw piece of .060 sheet metal. I dipped half of the
metal into a WAXOYL solution, then suspended the piece in an out of the way
area of the shop near an outside door. Six months later, the WAXOYL had
actually crept uphill on the piece by an inch from where it had been
treated, perhaps indicating that the solution does penetrate. The treated
portion showed no rust. The untreated portion was completely covered with
rust.
Best regards,
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
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From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 10:23:28 -0400
Subject: Brake drum balancing again
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From "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER at netl.doe.gov>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 10:40:34 -0400
Subject: Re: Waxoyl Question
Randy Cooper
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 10:13:49 -0500
Subject: RE: Trying to find clutch part, try Pegasus
-----Original Message-----
From: Blue One Hundred [mailto:international_investor@yahoo.com]
Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2003 8:44 PM
To: Chris Masucci; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Trying to find clutch part
--- Chris Masucci <sooch@houston.rr.com> wrote:
> Hi guys,
>
> I am looking for what is called a pedal clevis.
> This is the piece that
> threads onto the master cylinder pushrod, and
> "straddles" the pedal. Then
> you put the clevis pin through it and secure with a
> cotter pin. Anyone know
> the part I am talking about? I know that I can
> order one, but I swear that
> I saw one in a bubble pack at a local auto
> store...Forged Pedal Clevis is
> what it said. The Help! brand by Motormite is what
> I thoughtI saw it in,
> but I can't find anyone local that knows what I am
> talking about. Anyone
> have a part number or suggestion...besides going to
> the salvage yard for a
> $2 part? I already looked through the Motormite
> catalog with no luck.
>
> Thanks,
> Chris
> BJ8
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a
name of winmail.dat]
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From "eugene faust" <ejfaust at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 11:52:17 -0400
Subject: Air filter
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From Meemeb at aol.com
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 11:59:41 EDT
Subject: Chrome Platers
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From WhoCares56 at aol.com
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 12:03:16 EDT
Subject: Horn button ring
Thanks in advance,
Carroll
BN1 #484
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From "R.J. Denton" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 12:20:33 -0500
Subject: Re: Chrome Platers
Bob Denton
Meemeb@aol.com wrote:
> Can any0ne recommend a good chrome plater that they were pleased with the
> results and the price? I prefer a local plater within a 60 mile radius of
> Cincinnati, Ohio but if necessary will ship my parts outside of this area.
> Thanks for any advice you can provide.
> Bernie
> BJ8
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 11:31:49 -0500
Subject: CHROME PLATER
Don
BN7 (sold)
(My book is selling fast. Please e-mail me off line if you are interested
in a copy)
"Life is not measured by the breaths we take but by the things that take our
breath away"
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From brouillette at attbi.com
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 16:32:04 +0000
Subject: Re: Chrome Platers
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 13:13:15 -0400
Subject: Re: Air filter
Good Luck,
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "eugene faust" <ejfaust@worldnet.att.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 19, 2003 11:52 AM
Subject: Air filter
> I would like to put an air filter on the inlet to the cold air box in my
> 100M. I realize that this is heretical but has anyone come up with a
> plausible way of doing that?
>
> Thanks,
> Gene
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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 12:38:41 -0500
Subject: What is the best way to locate the dash top tonneau fasteners
I have looked at my new dash top and it looks like the holes drilled through
the shroud under the dash pad might be poorly located for this dash pad.
Of Course, I have already tossed the old rotten dash pad. --dumb move.
Any suggestions on how to locate the dash top tonneau fasteners
AND
should there be any other fasteners other than the mirror holding the dash
top down? if so, where are they located.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Brian Collins
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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 12:59:24 -0500
Subject: Location of front tonneau fasteners-----car is MKI 3000 BT7
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From "R.J. Denton" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 14:28:01 -0500
Subject: transport
Contact me off line, please.
Bob Denton
foxriverkid@earthlink.net
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 12:41:43 -0600
Subject: Re: Air filter
It may be heretical but a good filter is a necessity if you live where
there is dust. I guess that they didn't have dust in England. There are
a couple of things that you could do. Denis Welch UK has a rectangular
air box to round hose adapter which incorporates a truncated cone oiled
foam filter in the adapter. The DW hose is 4.5 inch, the stock hose is 4
inch. It is hard to get room for this larger diameter hose & adapter.
Really hard.
The DW web site --- http://www.bighealey.co.uk/
I tried this setup & found that the DW filter would not flow enough air
for my engine. DW says that their filter can flow enough air to supply
up to 150 horsepower, but I doubt it. Another Healey owner simply used
the stock air hose & stuffed the DW filter, small end first, into the
front end of the hose (behind the grill)
Since I had already installed the adapter & larger hose, I clamped an
AFE (Advanced Flow Engineering) filter to the front of the hose. The
filter that I used was much larger than needed but doesn't need
cleaning very often. I did put wing nuts on the top grill retaining
studs so that I could easily remove the grill to service the filter.
The AFE web site ----- http://www.afefilters.com/Universal.asp
The AFE #20-35508 filter would work for your stock hose. I think that
the AFE is much better than the DW filter. It is of similar construction
& material to the K&N filters but more sturdy than the K&N. I actually
ordered the AFE filter from-- http://www.usdieselparts.com/afefilters.cfm
The AFE #20-35508 filter is;
3.5" flange ID
4.0" flange OD
5" Base diameter
3.5" top diameter
8" long
Dave Russell
BN2
eugene faust wrote:
> I would like to put an air filter on the inlet to the cold air box in
> my 100M. I realize that this is heretical but has anyone come up
> with a plausible way of doing that?
>
> Thanks, Gene
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 16:23:17 EDT
Subject: Re: Air filter
> I tried this setup &found that the DW filter would not flow enough air
> for my engine. DW says that their filter can flow enough air to supply
> up to 150 horsepower, but I doubt it. Another Healey owner simply used
> the stock air hose &stuffed the DW filter, small end first, into the
> front end of the hose (behind the grill)
>
Dave--
I'm not sure to whom you are referring, but that was my ultimate solution, as
I had a very difficult time conforming the DW hose to the tortuous route from
grille to the adapter (as well as fitting the adapter between the shroud and
the Cold Air Box inlet), and never wanted to have to remove it to access the
filter. As it is, the DW filter stuffs nicely into the mouth of the stock
hose, and I periodically remove it from the hose, clean and oil it.
How did you determine that yours was not passing enough air to the
engine--what was the symptom? I doubt I am running anything like 150 HP.
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 17:08:03 -0400
Subject: Re: MP3 installation -vs- horsepower - No Healey Content
90,000,000 watts/1000/1000 = 90 MW = 1,440,000 lb/hr (653360 kg/hr)
steam/ 35 = 41,143 HP. NOW YOU'RE TALKIN'.
CB
ps: please check my math, long weekend under the car.
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 14:46:19 -0600
Subject: Re: Air filter
Yes, I was referring to you.
As I said, I think that the 150 HP limit quoted by DW is too high. My
engine may be putting out around 150. The symptoms were that the engine
would go progressively richer above 5,000 rpm & completely miss-fire.
Removing the DW filter returned things to normal. I did this test about
four times to be sure. When I replaced the DW filter with the AFE filter
everything is good. The wing nuts on the grille top make it really easy
to remove it for service. Don't even have to jack the car up.
I got the adapter & large hose in by making a shroud support bracket
which had more offset & leaving out the top left radiator to wheel well
support and using a more flexible 4.5 inch hose from JCW. It is a pretty
straight shot with no kinks.
Regards,
Dave Russell
BN2
Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 5/19/2003 2:44:14 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> rusd@velocitus.net writes:
>
>> I tried this setup &found that the DW filter would not flow enough air
>> for my engine. DW says that their filter can flow enough air to supply
>> up to 150 horsepower, but I doubt it. Another Healey owner simply used
>> the stock air hose & stuffed the DW filter, small end first, into the
>> front end of the hose (behind the grille)
>
>
>
> Dave--
>
> I'm not sure to whom you are referring, but that was my ultimate
> solution, as I had a very difficult time conforming the DW hose to the
> tortuous route from grille to the adapter (as well as fitting the
> adapter between the shroud and the Cold Air Box inlet), and never wanted
> to have to remove it to access the filter. As it is, the DW filter
> stuffs nicely into the mouth of the stock hose, and I periodically
> remove it from the hose, clean and oil it.
>
> How did you determine that yours was not passing enough air to the
> engine--what was the symptom? I doubt I am running anything like 150 HP.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 18:27:54 EDT
Subject: 100 Front Bow
I've thought of fabricating a reinforcing plate with the correct amount of
curvature and fastening it to the inside face of the bow in order to reshape
it, but there must be a better way. Anyone been here?
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 17:52:56 -0500
Subject: Re: Waxoyl Question
My understanding waxoyl can stop or slow down already started rust, works
well inside parts (frame rails rockers, door bottoms, etc.)
As far as applying it you may need to heat it (say in a large pan of hot
water) to get it to spray and flow like it is supposed to, even then I would
do it on a hot to warm day so it sprays and spreads around better.
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
> This Waxoyl sounds like some kind of magic elixir. Where can it be
> found and what kind of prices are generally asked?
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From "Jim LeBlanc" <jleblanc at midsouth.rr.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 19:15:30 -0500
Subject: Re: Air filter
The filter I started with was the K&N 7 x 2 inch chrome filter. Get rid of
the chrome and paint it dull or flat black. With modifications it will fit
in front of the air hose and over the steering box. A clamp that holds the
hose to the filter assembly clamps to a metal extension that is screwed to
the fender well. The air filter is very hard to see and many sharp Healey
people miss it.
I really recommend and emphasize having an air filter for the 100-M. Over
the years I have serviced a '54 Corvette with the speedo showing an original
29,000 miles. The car was a second owner car and passed from uncle to
nephew. The Corvette comes standard with three side draft carbs. After 29K
miles (no air filters as it is stock without them) the engine was worn out.
In 1982 my M came to me with 60K miles. At the time the engine was on its
second rebuild and in need of its third. Air filters make a difference.
The K & N air filter is standard for the standard Chevy two barrel 2 inch
diameter. It fits the middle 50's Chevy 6 with a downdraft carb.
To modify it for the M, take a discarded 6 cylinder 4 inch heater tube metal
flange or make a suitable flange from sheet metal. I believe these flanges
come off the heater motor. I would check with a well known Healey
dismantlers to find one of these. Then screw the flange to the back of the
K&N. Cut out the extra metal to give the filter body a 4 inch diameter hole.
The standard hose from your usual supplier is a 4 inch diameter tube and is
long enough to make two air tubes. You will need two tries. This is the tube
leading from the front to the air vent on the standard 100-4. Some people
tell me this is the wrong hose - I tend to agree and ignore the point.
The circumference of the box is about 3 1/2. So special effort is required
to take up the slack. Just shape the hose to the box, remove a triangle from
each corner and fold about 1/2 inch or more back into the hose. The double
layer takes up the extra circumference. Now you can put the standard clamp
over the 4 inch tube. Now it will have the right inner circumference.
I have sent pictures to Eugene, feel free to reply directly to me for that
set of pictures.
There is much more to tell about fitting the hose and installing the air
filter. It is a difficult task and the reason why so few original 100-M cold
air boxes escaped the wrath of their first owners. Usually to R&R the cold
air box I require 8 hours. To form a new tube, add 2 hours.
Best Regards,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M with K&N hidden filter.
----- Original Message -----
From: "eugene faust" <ejfaust@worldnet.att.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 19, 2003 10:52 AM
Subject: Air filter
I would like to put an air filter on the inlet to the cold air box in my
100M. I realize that this is heretical but has anyone come up with a
plausible way of doing that?
Thanks,
Gene
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From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 19:33:53 -0500
Subject: Re: Trying to find clutch part, try Pegasus
Chris
BJ8
p.s. took the Healey for a drive up and down the street yesterday...even my
wife said it sounded cool!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear@garverengineers.com>
To: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
Cc: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 19, 2003 10:13 AM
Subject: RE: Trying to find clutch part, try Pegasus
> Hi Guys, Pegasus Racing www.pegasusautoracing.com has what you're looking
> for...I just bought a clevis and a pushrod for myself from their catalog.
The
> pushrods atr 5/16-24 threaded and are therefore adjustable in length.
They
> specifically fit Tilton and Lockheed MCs but the mushroom looks like it
could
> be ground to match Girling MCs. They come in two or three different
lengths.
> Good luck,
> Jack
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Blue One Hundred [mailto:international_investor@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2003 8:44 PM
> To: Chris Masucci; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Trying to find clutch part
>
>
>
> --- Chris Masucci <sooch@houston.rr.com> wrote:
> > Hi guys,
> >
> > I am looking for what is called a pedal clevis.
> > This is the piece that
> > threads onto the master cylinder pushrod, and
> > "straddles" the pedal. Then
> > you put the clevis pin through it and secure with a
> > cotter pin. Anyone know
> > the part I am talking about? I know that I can
> > order one, but I swear that
> > I saw one in a bubble pack at a local auto
> > store...Forged Pedal Clevis is
> > what it said. The Help! brand by Motormite is what
> > I thoughtI saw it in,
> > but I can't find anyone local that knows what I am
> > talking about. Anyone
> > have a part number or suggestion...besides going to
> > the salvage yard for a
> > $2 part? I already looked through the Motormite
> > catalog with no luck.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Chris
> > BJ8
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From "John" <john4 at attbi.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 18:16:24 -0700
Subject: e-mail addresses
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 18:35:13 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: 100 Front Bow
I see the battle continues with the 100!
Have you checked to see if there is a crack in the
steel frame of your top bow somewhere? The front bow
can crack and cause the symptoms you speak of - I had
the left front bow corner on my 100 break
completely... I took it to a shop and had it rewelded
for about $100.
You might also consider replacing the wooden bow...
maybe it's just warped!
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> The front bow on my top (hood) seems to have changed
> shape over the
> winter--there is a gap of approximately 3/8" in the
> center, despite my having
> raked the windshield as far forward as possible in
> order to increase its
> height in the center. I believe there is a steel
> angle that reinforces the
> wood in the bow, but both have apparently changed
> shape. Though I can pull
> the bow down by hand so that the seal is in
> acceptable contact with the top
> of the glass frame, once I release it the top bows
> back up in the middle.
>
> I've thought of fabricating a reinforcing plate with
> the correct amount of
> curvature and fastening it to the inside face of the
> bow in order to reshape
> it, but there must be a better way. Anyone been
> here?
>
> Best--Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans
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From Pat & Gary Rice <patgaryrice at earthlink.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 22:34:21 -0700
Subject: Re: Gas Tank
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 20 May 2003 01:59:28 EDT
Subject: Re: Gas Tank
Rick
San Diego
In a message dated 5/19/03 22:39:23, patgaryrice@earthlink.net writes:
<< Prefer supplier on West Coast, since that's
where I am. Would appreciate any info and how well the replacements fit up
to the gas line. Happy Healeying
Gary Rice
1961 MK1
HBT7L
Ventura, Ca. >>
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 23:46:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Gas Tank
you must have missed it. here's the one on ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33556&item=2416039130
I've never bought from these guys specifically, but
the Hecho en Mexico tank in my BJ8 is 10 years old
now... still working great.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Pat & Gary Rice <patgaryrice@earthlink.net> wrote:
> Listers; Tired of battling rust in gas tank
> blocking the pick up and filter
> to the fuel pump. Want to purchase new tank. I
> must have deleted
> discussions on tanks from e-bay for $225 or so.
> Searched e-bay. Only one
> mentioning Healey 6 cylinder tanks was temporarily
> out of stock. Would
> someone fill me in on their source. I have M***
> catalog and know prices.
> Would like to get something less expensive for my
> HBT7L, if possible. Saw
> an ad in Hemmings Motor news for a supplier in
> Oregon or Washington with
> alloy tanks reasonbly priced. Prefer supplier on
> West Coast, since that's
> where I am. Would appreciate any info and how well
> the replacements fit up
> to the gas line. Happy Healeying
> Gary Rice
> 1961 MK1
> HBT7L
> Ventura, Ca.
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From "tfelts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 21:11:05 -0400
Subject: test only--delete
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 20 May 2003 13:59:13 +0000
Subject: timing or carb adj?
--
Mark
59 BT7
Carson, CA
-
-
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 20 May 2003 07:49:04 -0700
Subject: RE: Gas Tank
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 20 May 2003 09:05:34 -0700
Subject: Re: What is the best way to locate the dash top tonneau
The dash top is held down by the mirror, the Tenax stud at the center,
front, inner corner of the right half of the Tonneau cover, the pairs of
screws holding turnbucklles at the front outboard corners of same, and a
screw at each front, outboard corner of the dash top, near the windshield
posts.
John Snyder
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 19, 2003 10:38 AM
Subject: What is the best way to locate the dash top tonneau fasteners
> Foolishly, when I moved last week, I put all my Healey reference material
> in a box somewhere---haven't found them yet.
>
> I have looked at my new dash top and it looks like the holes drilled
through
> the shroud under the dash pad might be poorly located for this dash pad.
> Of Course, I have already tossed the old rotten dash pad. --dumb move.
>
> Any suggestions on how to locate the dash top tonneau fasteners
>
> AND
>
> should there be any other fasteners other than the mirror holding the dash
> top down? if so, where are they located.
>
> Thanks in advance for your help.
>
> Brian Collins
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From NPaul72464 at aol.com
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 20 May 2003 12:55:04 EDT
Subject: Re: timing or carb adj?
Ned Paulsen
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 20 May 2003 13:37:30 EDT
Subject: 100 Front Bow problem--solution found
At the local West Marine store I purchased two stainless-steel lifeline
fittings that accomodate 1/8" 1x19 wire, and a piece of wire about 11-1/4"
long.
One fitting has jaws to be used with a clevis pin and the other terminates in a
threaded stud. I assembled the parts with the press-tool that they have in
the store for a total length of 14" overall of the assembly.
I knocked the rubber buffer out of the bottom hole of the center triangular
chrome rail bracket and attached the jaws-end to it with a short clevis pin. I
then drilled a 1/4" hole in the scuttle just forward of the rear-view mirror,
erected the top and passed the threaded terminal down through it, reached
behind the dashboard and ran a knurled nut up the stud from underneath with a
fender- washer behind it to spread the load. By simply tightening the nut I
drew
the top down to the windshield against the seal.
The top now fits perfectly against the windscreen frame, the device takes
about a minute to attach and another minute to "install". The only visual
difference is a piece of 1/8" wire running between the scuttle and the top bow
just
inside the windsshield, similar to the rod on older Porsche cabriolets. The
1/4" hole is pretty hard to spot--only you and I know that it is there.
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
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From Andrew Katz <andrewk at limitedslip.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 20 May 2003 11:53:26 -0600
Subject: knob removal
Thanks for the wonderful suggestions on my BJ7 window seating issues!
(Got it to work using multiple 2.5 inch pieces of the glazing rubber,
lot's of Windex, and a large recoilless rubber mallet, btw)
Current Issue: I am changing out all the worn knobs on my BJ7 dash.
They appear to be held on with a pin inserted into the hole. Frankly, I
expected to find a small screw. How does one get these pins out? Unlike
the door handles where you can just use a punch to push them out, the
hole is only on one side.
I suppose the answer is simple and I just haven't thought of it, so any
help is greatly appreciated!
thanks -- Andrew
ps - the workshop manual doesn't seem to cover the dash at all. Is
there a resource for removal and installation guidance of the
components and fascia?
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 20 May 2003 14:16:21 EDT
Subject: Re: knob removal
<< Current Issue: I am changing out all the worn knobs on my BJ7 dash.
They appear to be held on with a pin inserted into the hole. Frankly, I
expected to find a small screw. How does one get these pins out? >>
The pins are spring loaded and attached to the shaft.
Push in the pin and pull the knob simultaneously.
Rick
San Diego
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From MBran89793 at aol.com
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 20 May 2003 14:13:47 EDT
Subject: Re: knob removal
> How does one get these pins out?
The pins do not come out. Just depress the pin slightly and pull the knob
off.
When you reinstall depress the pin enough to get the new know started and
when it reaches the proper point the pin will engage into the hole that locks
it in place.
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
BT7 (2)
BJ8 "Blackie"
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From Andrew Katz <andrewk at limitedslip.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 20 May 2003 12:20:10 -0600
Subject: Re: knob removal
Thanks so much! -- Andrew
On Tuesday, May 20, 2003, at 12:13 PM, MBran89793@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 5/20/2003 2:02:51 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> andrewk@limitedslip.com writes:
>
> How does one get these pins out?
>
>
>
> The pins do not come out. Just depress the pin slightly and pull the
> knob off.
> When you reinstall depress the pin enough to get the new know started
> and when it reaches the proper point the pin will engage into the hole
> that locks it in place.
>
> Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
> BT7 (2)
> BJ8 "Blackie"
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 20 May 2003 13:25:00 -0700
Subject: Virus Warning
Looked fishy to me. Called Earthlink and they advised that this is a virus
that came out yesterday.
Don't open it and update you definitions if you haven't done so recently.
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 20 May 2003 15:28:35 -0500
Subject: Re: timing or carb adj?
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From "Bill Park" <bpark at ebtech.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 20 May 2003 16:29:41 -0400
Subject: Correct engine #s
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From KevinFitzgerald <kevin at fitzgerald.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 20 May 2003 18:25:18 -0400
Subject: Fuel Pump
Thanks,
Kevin
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From "Ron Fine Esq." <RonFineEsq at earthlink.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 20 May 2003 16:47:59 -0700
Subject: Retrofit diode to fuel pump.
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 20 May 2003 17:06:38 -0600
Subject: Re: 100 Front Bow problem--solution found
Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> Thanks to those who responded concerning my "arched" front bow, and I was
> glad to learn that this is a common problem in 100's. An elegant and simple
> solution came to me last night and it took me about an hour's work and $30 in
> parts to remedy the situation--at least to my satisfaction--as follows:
>
> At the local West Marine store I purchased two stainless-steel lifeline
> fittings that accomodate 1/8" 1x19 wire, and a piece of wire about 11-1/4"
>long.
> One fitting has jaws to be used with a clevis pin and the other terminates in
>a
> threaded stud. I assembled the parts with the press-tool that they have in
> the store for a total length of 14" overall of the assembly.
>
> I knocked the rubber buffer out of the bottom hole of the center triangular
> chrome rail bracket and attached the jaws-end to it with a short clevis pin.
>I
> then drilled a 1/4" hole in the scuttle just forward of the rear-view mirror,
> erected the top and passed the threaded terminal down through it, reached
> behind the dashboard and ran a knurled nut up the stud from underneath with a
> fender- washer behind it to spread the load. By simply tightening the nut I
>drew
> the top down to the windshield against the seal.
>
> The top now fits perfectly against the windscreen frame, the device takes
> about a minute to attach and another minute to "install". The only visual
> difference is a piece of 1/8" wire running between the scuttle and the top
>bow just
> inside the windsshield, similar to the rod on older Porsche cabriolets. The
> 1/4" hole is pretty hard to spot--only you and I know that it is there.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
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From "Dallas Congleton" <dcong996 at earthlink.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 20 May 2003 19:11:22 -0400
Subject: New Book
Dallas Congleton
1967 HBJ8L/41193
1953 MGTD/25937
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 20 May 2003 19:12:30 EDT
Subject: Re: 100 Front Bow problem--solution found
<< ?????????????????????????????? >>
I'll second that. and raise you one WTF?!
Rick
San Diego
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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 20 May 2003 17:13:07 -0600
Subject: Re: Virus Warning
I have had two in the last day, one "re: movie from support@microsoft.com"
and the other subject line I have forgotten but with the same e-mail address.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
'65 BJ8
Marge and/or Len wrote:
> WARNING! Received an e-mail from : Support @ microsoft.com, Subject: Your
> password. Text: All information is in the attached file.
>
> Looked fishy to me. Called Earthlink and they advised that this is a virus
> that came out yesterday.
>
> Don't open it and update you definitions if you haven't done so recently.
>
> (The Other) Len
> Vacaville, CA, USA
> 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 20 May 2003 17:20:27 -0600
Subject: New Worm -Microsoft
Check out the story on this new worm carried by CBC radio, click on the blue
line of text
CBC News: Worm disguised as Microsoft e-mail spreads
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
'65 BJ8
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From LarryRPH at aol.com
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 20 May 2003 20:01:28 -0400
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump
You can get an electronic pump at NAPA, autozone, Pep boys, etc for about $35.
They work just as well as the originals.
Just tell them what you need and they will steer you straight.
Larry Wysocki
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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 20 May 2003 20:48:10 EDT
Subject: Re: Correct engine #s
Engine 1B225769M would have originally been in BN1_-225769 built about May,
1955.
Engine 1B232108M would have been in BN2_-232108 built about late April, 1956.
Engine 1B232317 would have been in BN2_-232317 built about early May 1956.
Regards.
Steve Mickelson
Still trying to help with the BN1/BN2 Registries
Getting further and further behind.
In a message dated 5/20/2003 1:33:53 PM Pacific Standard Time,
bpark@ebtech.net writes:
> In looking for a piston for my 100 engine, I discovered I have 2 engines
> with
> the numbers attached. If someone is looking for the correct engine for
> their
> car, I might have it. The first 2 are blocks, cranks and pans - i.e. no
> heads
> or carbs, etc. Pistons are stuck in blocks. If these are of interest to
> anyone, I'd like to be rid of them.
> Numbers are 1B232317M, and 1B225769M.
> I also have #1B232108M rebuilt to 100M specs - cam &carbs. I intended to
> use
> this in a project car, but may not. If it is the correct engine for
> someone's
> car, I think I'd part with it.
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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 20 May 2003 18:51:59 -0600
Subject: CBC story on worm - microsoft
Well as Ed Justbrits just asked what blue line, I agree it wasn't there.
Obviously the code attached to the description was stripped, for those
interested try:
http://cbc.ca/stories/2003/05/20/Consumers/computerworm_030520
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
'65 BJ8
'89 Morgan 4/4
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 20 May 2003 19:04:18 -0600
Subject: Re: Retrofit diode to fuel pump.
The down side to installing a diode is that the pump becomes polarity
sensitive. You can't switch pos & neg ground without changing the diode.
The up side is that you should have much longer life of the points in
the pump & more reliable operation with the diode.
Take your choice,
Dave Russell
BN2
Ron Fine Esq. wrote:
> Looking for opinions: I am about to rebuild the original fuel pump on
> my 61BN7. I purchased a kit from a supplier who suggested that I retro
> fit a diode. The original fuel pump does not have a diode or
> condenser. I have the diode. Any opinions on this topic??
> Thanks,
> Ron
> 61BN7
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 20 May 2003 18:17:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Retrofit diode to fuel pump.
I know it's OEM heresy, but I swear by the solid state
Facet pumps. Super easy to install and they never go
bad. Have had one in my BJ8 for 7 years now... and
cheap & small enough for me to keep a spare Facet pump
in the trunk. Works both positive or negative ground.
Get the 25 GPH model - any higher output may cause
float bowl flooding. And I know these fit right up to
BT7 mounts... so they may bolt right up to your BN7
mounts as well...
http://www.jcwhitney.com/item.jhtml?ITEMID=4661&BQ=jcw1
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "Ron Fine Esq." <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net> wrote:
> Looking for opinions: I am about to rebuild the
> original fuel pump on
> my 61BN7. I purchased a kit from a supplier who
> suggested that I retro
> fit a diode. The original fuel pump does not have a
> diode or
> condenser. I have the diode. Any opinions on this
> topic??
> Thanks,
> Ron
> 61BN7
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 20 May 2003 18:25:59 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: timing or carb adj?
You may also want to check your vacuum advance to see
if it is working. When the throttle is closed you
need maximum advance to make sure the mixture burns
enough while it is still in the cylinder... but if
your vacuum advance is not working fully... the
mixture will enter the exhaust only partially burned
and it will pop when it hits the cold fresh oxygen in
the air surrounding the tail pipe.
Other things to check are your coil (is it old and
wearing out? Low voltage here will cause similar
symptoms) ... also check your condensor if you are
running points... do the points look burnt at all?
Hope that helps,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- fawcett1187@attbi.com wrote:
> Listers,
> I've resently adjusted the valves (.012), carbs and
> the timing. I now back fire
> and rumble from the tail pipe on deceleration. Which
> do you think is the most
> likely cause?
>
> --
> Mark
> 59 BT7
> Carson, CA
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 02:17:22 +0000
Subject: It was carb adjust, not timing
> I get a backfire when a carb is too lean. A way to check is to pull the
> choke out a little and see if it stops.
>
> Ned Paulsen
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 20 May 2003 22:24:42 EDT
Subject: Re: Retrofit diode to fuel pump.
> Get the 25 GPH model - any higher output may cause float bowl flooding.
I believe it is the operating pressure that is the critical factor. I got
the 3-5 psi model on advice from those in the know--works just fine.
Best--Michael
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From "Ron Davies, DDS" <rdavies1 at cox.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 20 May 2003 19:57:01 -0700
Subject: RE: CBC story on worm - microsoft
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From Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 00:05:44 -0400
Subject: Battery cable grommet
In my continuing effort to make the trunk interior of my BJ8 as original as
possible I pose a question to the list.
The area of interest is the point were the negative battery cable goes into
the inner fender wall. There is a triangular metal grommet that is painted
black along with a rubber grommet that fits into it that attaches to the
wall.
Question: Is this integral grommet placed directly on the wall under the
armacord and out of view OR screwed in over the armacord and in plain view?
I have seen both ways on BJ8's and wonder which is correct. Maybe someone
with an unrestored car can take a look?
Scot
'66 BJ8
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From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 01:19:00 EDT
Subject: Re: Battery cable grommet
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From MeditionM at netscape.net
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Bill Rister" <brister@hal-pc.org>; "AH Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 02:45:50 -0400
Subject: Throttle linkage
Can anyone out there give me the correct finish for the throttle linkage from
the pedal to the carbs on a BJ7. How about the bearing mounts on the shaft
mounted to the alcove on the firewall. Painted? Plated (with what)?
What is the finish on the door latch striker plates mounted to the shut face?
Ken Mason
BJ7 someday
__________________________________________________________________
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From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 06:21:31 -0500
Subject: Re: 100 Front Bow problem--solution found
> ??????????????????????????????
>
> Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> > Thanks to those who responded concerning my "arched" front bow, and I
was
> > glad to learn that this is a common problem in 100's. An elegant and
simple
> > solution came to me last night and it took me about an hour's work and
$30 in
> > parts to remedy the situation--at least to my satisfaction--as follows:
> >
> > At the local West Marine store I purchased two stainless-steel lifeline
> > fittings that accomodate 1/8" 1x19 wire, and a piece of wire about
11-1/4" long.
> > One fitting has jaws to be used with a clevis pin and the other
terminates in a
> > threaded stud. I assembled the parts with the press-tool that they have
in
> > the store for a total length of 14" overall of the assembly.
> >
> > I knocked the rubber buffer out of the bottom hole of the center
triangular
> > chrome rail bracket and attached the jaws-end to it with a short clevis
pin. I
> > then drilled a 1/4" hole in the scuttle just forward of the rear-view
mirror,
> > erected the top and passed the threaded terminal down through it,
reached
> > behind the dashboard and ran a knurled nut up the stud from underneath
with a
> > fender- washer behind it to spread the load. By simply tightening the
nut I drew
> > the top down to the windshield against the seal.
> >
> > The top now fits perfectly against the windscreen frame, the device
takes
> > about a minute to attach and another minute to "install". The only
visual
> > difference is a piece of 1/8" wire running between the scuttle and the
top bow just
> > inside the windsshield, similar to the rod on older Porsche cabriolets.
The
> > 1/4" hole is pretty hard to spot--only you and I know that it is there.
> >
> > Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
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From "Jim LeBlanc" <jleblanc at midsouth.rr.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 09:13:00 -0500
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump
Years ago I posted a note that described fule pump tests. The conclusion I
drew is that the originals need to be replaced as the coils deteriorate with
use and heat.
The pumps are installed right over the exhaust system and heat up under
exhaust conditions and use. Just run a pump, pumping water and you will find
that after 20 minutes or so, it will seize. Then let it cool and the life
cycle deteriorates. Eventually it will only pump for a few minutes before
seizing. The heating and cooling cycles of normal use kills the pump.
However those cheap aftermarket pumps just keep working.
On my car (that is seldom driven) I run two pumps inline.
Best Regards,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M
----- Original Message -----
From: <LarryRPH@aol.com>
To: "KevinFitzgerald" <kevin@fitzgerald.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 20, 2003 7:01 PM
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump
Kevin,
You can get an electronic pump at NAPA, autozone, Pep boys, etc for about
$35. They work just as well as the originals.
Just tell them what you need and they will steer you straight.
Larry Wysocki
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From "James Sailer" <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 08:51:51 -0600
Subject: re: Gas Tank
I ended up buying an alloy tank for my BJ8... lloks nice... not installed
yet as my BJ8 has just getting its final paint (today ---)
http://www.bpnorthwest.com/
No financial interest..
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8 - soon to be red/black
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From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 20:50:28 +0100
Subject: Back again
I just got back on again after being unceremoniously dropped from the
list. I was wondering if anyone else had had this problem? It's the
second time that it has happened to me since Christmas......
Now DON'T get personal ;-)
Peter Dzwig
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From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 13:43:14 -0700
Subject: Chrome Plating SJ CA
Can anyone recommend a company in the San Jose CA., area for chrome plating?
I need to get my bumpers and some other items plated for my restoration
project.
Cheers,
Frank Golding
1960 BN7 # 10610
On the road for HR2003
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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 18:46:14 -0500
Subject: Lexan windshield
anyway, here is my question: I broke one perfectly good windshield, figure I
am capable of breaking another, so, I am contemplating using LEXAN. A
friend of mine used it in his Nasty Boy and it looks good after 7 years of
use.
Any thoughts on this?
Brian Collins
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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 18:50:18 -0500
Subject: Need a good forum or list for Jaguar
Can anyone suggest a good forum or list for DIY repairs on the 89 XJS?
Thanks in advance,
Brian
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From "Jim Lesher" <cleona44 at hotmail.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 19:59:12 -0400
Subject: need engine stand or engine dolly
_________________________________________________________________
Add photos to your messages with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*.
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 20:39:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Lexan windshield
Sure sorry to hear that. Thoughts? I'm thinkin' there are hundreds of
thousands of roadsters and convertibles running around with glass
windshields, so you know it works. I wouldn't use Lexan on any vehicle that
had windshield wipers.
Isn't there a glass shop within driving distance? And next time, you'll want
to be sure the glass isn't stressed when the frame is attached to the car.
--
John
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 17:56:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Back again
If you run an "out of the office" message from your
work email, the lists's system will sense it and drop
you from the list to prevent an endless cycle of:
message from the list - "out of office" response from
your email server to the list - and then receiving
that same message back again from the lists' server
and so on and so on...
Best not to access the list server from your work
email, or an email where you'll have the server
generate auto messages....
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Peter Dzwig <pdzwig@summaventures.com> wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I just got back on again after being unceremoniously
> dropped from the
> list. I was wondering if anyone else had had this
> problem? It's the
> second time that it has happened to me since
> Christmas......
>
> Now DON'T get personal ;-)
>
> Peter Dzwig
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From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 21:20:59 -0400
Subject: Re: Need a good forum or list for Jaguar
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2003 7:50 PM
Subject: Need a good forum or list for Jaguar
> I recently purchased a 12 cylinder XJS convertible from some friends who
> were in a pinch. The A/C is blowing up through the defroster vents and
the
> cruise control is inoperative in an otherwise immaculate car. I know
that
> on Mercedes, this problem occurs when a vacuum diaphragm is leaking and
the
> a/c defaults to the German DOT required defroster mode,.
>
> Can anyone suggest a good forum or list for DIY repairs on the 89 XJS?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Brian
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From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 21:34:40 -0400
Subject: Air filter?
Thanks for any opinions,
Mick Vander Ploeg
'57 BN4...being re-assembled.
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From "James Shope" <healeymanjim at JoiMail.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 20 May 2003 20:48:59 -0700
Subject: carbs or timing
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From "Neal Grotenhuis" <grotenhuis at attbi.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 21:54:58 -0400
Subject: RE: need engine stand or engine dolly
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Jim Lesher
Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2003 7:59 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: need engine stand or engine dolly
I need to get or make an engine stand or dolly for a six cylinder engine.
What are the recommendations or comments from this wise and learned group
TIA
Jim lesher
_________________________________________________________________
Add photos to your messages with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*.
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 23:03:34 -0400
Subject: Potential PVGP Regalia Sales Items
I volunteer with the Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix committee selling
regalia from past PVGP events. Our effort is called Vintage-Vintage and we
have been very successful in the past several years adding to the event total,
which is donated entirely to charities (Allegheny Valley School and The Autism
Society).
Two points:
Anyone needing to complete (or initiate) a collection of PVGP items,
please let me know what you might need. Our stock includes dash plaques,
posters, pins, programs, shirts, patches, etc. Some items are out of stock,
but we will try to accommodate your needs.
I am looking for donations of race and auto related items (see list above)
to sell at our booths during race week. Anything that might be gathering dust
or finally just in your way would be appreciated. All items are accepted from
any club or race track, or from personal stashes.
Again, all proceeds go to charity.
Hope to see a lot of you at PVGP this year (our 21st), dates are 19 and 20
July but activities go on all the week before.
Please contact me with any questions, or send 'stuff' to;
Charley Braum
109 Clay Street
Elizabeth, PA, USA
15037
cbaustin@sgi.net
412 405 7589 - leave a
message
And please let your friends and acquaintances know, thanks again.
CB
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From "Kufchak" <leemar at bendcable.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 19:38:06 -0700
Subject: Publicity
If you are interested in doing the same, talk to your local newspaper staff.
You might be happy with the results. If anyone is interested, I can forward
the article, just let me know. Lee.
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 20:06:06 -0700
Subject: Re: Air filter?
At the time, Road & Track used to refer to them as "Gravel Strainers". There
you have it. They keep the aggregate from accruing.
I bet you could use oil-soaked upholstery foam inside of them.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
> From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
> Reply-To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
> Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 21:34:40 -0400
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Air filter?
>
> I just received new air filter elements for my '57 BN4, and am totally blown
> away by the size of the screen. What are these intended to filter out?
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 20:59:16 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Air filter?
If you are seeking to place a cleanable or replaceable
filter element ... there are many companies and models
out there available for your car other than K&N,
albeit K&N probably makes the single BEST filter for
your car. You don't want to futz around with the
original filter screens because it is a sealed unit..
and you want your filters to be easily cleaned and
replaced.
If originality is a concern, the best thing to do is
to take the original filters OFF the car and keep them
safe somewhere. Go get an aftermarket filter and use
that when you drive the car, and then spend the 10
minutes switching the original filters onto the car if
you are going to have it concours judged.
You can get all kinds of aftermarket filters for your
car... try:
www.mossmotors.com
www.holden.co.uk
www.scparts.co.uk
www.sumidel.com
Victoria British in Kansas has a big selection also...
and most healey specialists can help you out as well.
I have never allowed an original style air filter to
be mounted on any of my healeys (except the BN1, which
had a good original filter set up)!
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Mick VanderPloeg <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com> wrote:
> I just received new air filter elements for my '57
> BN4, and am totally blown
> away by the size of the screen. What are these
> intended to filter out?
> What's the point of soaking these things in oil?
> Does the oil drip over the
> screen & assist in the filtration process? As far
> as I can tell, it's just a
> window screen with felt on the edges. Is there
> anything out there that
> replaces the element but fits in the original air
> filter housing? Has anyone
> done something with the original element to keep out
> objects smaller than
> large mosquitoes, such as, wrapping it in some other
> type of filter material?
> Maybe these are more effective than they look & I'm
> worried for no reason. If
> so, let me know, and I'll go ahead an install them
> as is. Otherwise, are
> there options other than replacing the entire
> assembly with a K&N filter?
>
> Thanks for any opinions,
>
> Mick Vander Ploeg
> '57 BN4...being re-assembled.
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From Doug Ingram <dougi at shaw.ca>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 21:48:00 -0700
Subject: Re: Need a good forum or list for Jaguar
The best resource on the web, by far:
http://www.jag-lovers.org/
Doug Ingram
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2003 4:50 PM
Subject: Need a good forum or list for Jaguar
> I recently purchased a 12 cylinder XJS convertible from some friends who
> were in a pinch. The A/C is blowing up through the defroster vents and
the
> cruise control is inoperative in an otherwise immaculate car. I know
that
> on Mercedes, this problem occurs when a vacuum diaphragm is leaking and
the
> a/c defaults to the German DOT required defroster mode,.
>
> Can anyone suggest a good forum or list for DIY repairs on the 89 XJS?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Brian
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 23:11:27 -0600
Subject: Re: Air filter?
Here is an article on adapting K&N elements to the existing cans. You
may want to think about it. The original screens & or horsehair don't do
much, oiled or not oiled. If you drive where there is dust, good filters
can easily double or triple the life of an engine.
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/carbs/cb201.htm
Dave Russell
Mick VanderPloeg wrote:
> I just received new air filter elements for my '57 BN4, and am totally blown
> away by the size of the screen. What are these intended to filter out?
> What's the point of soaking these things in oil? Does the oil drip over the
> screen & assist in the filtration process? As far as I can tell, it's just a
> window screen with felt on the edges. Is there anything out there that
> replaces the element but fits in the original air filter housing? Has anyone
> done something with the original element to keep out objects smaller than
> large mosquitoes, such as, wrapping it in some other type of filter material?
> Maybe these are more effective than they look & I'm worried for no reason. If
> so, let me know, and I'll go ahead an install them as is. Otherwise, are
> there options other than replacing the entire assembly with a K&N filter?
>
> Thanks for any opinions,
>
> Mick Vander Ploeg
> '57 BN4...being re-assembled.
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From "John Soderling" <jsoderling at ca.astound.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 22:27:29 -0700
Subject: Re: Air filter?
> I just received new air filter elements for my '57 BN4, and am totally
blown
> away by the size of the screen. What are these intended to filter out?
> What's the point of soaking these things in oil? Does the oil drip over
the
> screen & assist in the filtration process? As far as I can tell, it's
just a
> window screen with felt on the edges. Is there anything out there that
> replaces the element but fits in the original air filter housing? Has
anyone
> done something with the original element to keep out objects smaller than
> large mosquitoes, such as, wrapping it in some other type of filter
material?
> Maybe these are more effective than they look & I'm worried for no reason.
If
> so, let me know, and I'll go ahead an install them as is. Otherwise, are
> there options other than replacing the entire assembly with a K&N filter?
>
> Thanks for any opinions,
>
> Mick Vander Ploeg
> '57 BN4...being re-assembled.
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From Pat & Gary Rice <patgaryrice at earthlink.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 23:44:11 -0700
Subject: RE: Gas tank
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From "A.Clinton UK Racing Castings" <ukracingcastings at btinternet.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 09:29:37 +0100
Subject: remove
remove
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of
btzhsepa.gif]
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of
Network Blitz Bkgrd.gif]
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 05:53:51 -0400
Subject: Re: Publicity
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kufchak" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2003 10:38 PM
Subject: Publicity
| I thought it might be a good idea to get a little publicity for these
| wonderful cars we enjoy, so I contacted one of the people who write for
our
| local newspaper, asking if he was interested in preparing an article. Was
he!
| He came to my house and we talked about Austin Healeys, then he took some
| photos. I think the crowning touch was when I took him for a short drive
| around our neighborhood. Blue sky, temperature in the 70's, top down,
that
| Austin Healey sound, he was sold. The article came out today and it was a
1/2
| page with a great photo. Although there were a few minor errors, only an
AH
| afficionado would notice, and I think he really caught the essence of
owning
| one of these jewels.
|
| If you are interested in doing the same, talk to your local newspaper
staff.
| You might be happy with the results. If anyone is interested, I can
forward
| the article, just let me know. Lee.
| |
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From "Lynn and Jean Neff" <lynnandjean at warpnet.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 05:24:36 -0500
Subject: Back again, again
It was pretty boring without this list!
Lynn BT7
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From N0040 at aol.com
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 07:46:50 EDT
Subject: Re: Back again
Happened to me about 4-5 times in a two month period last year.
Then you start to get paranoid about what you had said ... :>0
Never had an "out of office" message on any of my emails. Hasn't happened
since then (jinx !!).
If you don't see 25-30 messages / day, or 60 after a weekend, you've probably
been unceremonially dropped.
Regards,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
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From "James Sailer" <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 07:32:29 -0600
Subject: Need BJ8 Dash Screw
I am in need of one posidrive chrome screw used to hold the chrome trim
around the dash of my BJ8. Anyone have an extra, or know where I can get
one?
Thanks.
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 09:26:49 -0400
Subject: Re: Air filter?
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Soderling" <jsoderling@ca.astound.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 22, 2003 1:27 AM
Subject: Re: Air filter?
> Mick,
> I have a 1957 BN4 and I put on the Longflow chrome foam air cleaners (part
> #9-1088) for HD6 S.U. carbs shown page 27 of the 2003 spring/summer
edition
> of the Victoria British, LTD catalog. $30 buck each. They have a
washable
> foam filter and look good. You have to drill a new hole in the back of one
> for the crankcase vent tube. They provide the attachment hardware and
plug
> to make it work. Easy to do.
> Vrooom vrooom,
> John
>
>
> > I just received new air filter elements for my '57 BN4, and am totally
> blown
> > away by the size of the screen. What are these intended to filter out?
> > What's the point of soaking these things in oil? Does the oil drip over
> the
> > screen & assist in the filtration process? As far as I can tell, it's
> just a
> > window screen with felt on the edges. Is there anything out there that
> > replaces the element but fits in the original air filter housing? Has
> anyone
> > done something with the original element to keep out objects smaller
than
> > large mosquitoes, such as, wrapping it in some other type of filter
> material?
> > Maybe these are more effective than they look & I'm worried for no
reason.
> If
> > so, let me know, and I'll go ahead an install them as is. Otherwise,
are
> > there options other than replacing the entire assembly with a K&N
filter?
> >
> > Thanks for any opinions,
> >
> > Mick Vander Ploeg
> > '57 BN4...being re-assembled.
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from the front to get out from the rear and it just doesn't want to
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 10:49:00 -0400
Subject: Grille surround removal
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 11:18:05 EDT
Subject: Re: Publicity
David Nock
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 09:30:54 -0700
Subject: Re: Grille surround removal
John Snyder
> Hello Listers,
> I've checked the shop manual and list archives and can't solve my
> problem. I'm trying to remove the chrome grille surround assembly on my
> BN7 Mk II. The nuts are removed from the backside (top and bottom) and
> looking from the backside I can see the mounting tabs top and bottom
> which would prevent pulling it out from the front. So... I'm pushing it
> from the front to get out from the rear and it just doesn't want to
> move. If I push any harder I'm afraid I'll damage the shroud opening.
> Any thoughts before I use a larger hammer?
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From "R.J. Denton" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 13:23:42 -0500
Subject: Re: Grille surround removal
Bob Denton
John Snyder wrote:
> The grill surround will only come out from the front. The grill itself
> comes out from the back. You must remove the grill first, then the grill
> surround. There are 2 very small nuts at the outboard ends of the "grill
> hood" (item #60 in the Moss catalog,) which must be removed b/4 the grill
> surround and grill hood are removes as a unit. Then push the top of the
> surround/hood rocking it forward, then lift it up to clear the bottom tabs.
> A larger hammer, or any hammer, is not a good solution :-)
>
> John Snyder
>
> > Hello Listers,
> > I've checked the shop manual and list archives and can't solve my
> > problem. I'm trying to remove the chrome grille surround assembly on my
> > BN7 Mk II. The nuts are removed from the backside (top and bottom) and
> > looking from the backside I can see the mounting tabs top and bottom
> > which would prevent pulling it out from the front. So... I'm pushing it
> > from the front to get out from the rear and it just doesn't want to
> > move. If I push any harder I'm afraid I'll damage the shroud opening.
> > Any thoughts before I use a larger hammer?
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 10:30:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: RE: need engine stand or engine dolly
I did the same (Harbor Freight). I would go for the
2000lb model as that 6 cylinder is long and heavy. If
you are in So-Cal you can borrow mine...
Dean
BN7
--- Neal Grotenhuis <grotenhuis@attbi.com> wrote:
> www.harborfreight.com A search on engine stands
> yields 5 results. I got
> mine there; the 2000 lb model. It worked well for
> my rebuild.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of
> Jim Lesher
> Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2003 7:59 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: need engine stand or engine dolly
>
>
> I need to get or make an engine stand or dolly for a
> six cylinder engine.
> What are the recommendations or comments from this
> wise and learned group
> TIA
> Jim lesher
>
>
__________________________________
The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo.
http://search.yahoo.com
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From Richard Gordon <HealeyHundred at comcast.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 12:21:47 -0600
Subject: Help sending to sprite lists...
Les Leston Wood rimmed steering wheel.
A few years ago I was able to purchase a superb example of the Les
Leston wood rimmed steering wheel. I came off of a 1966 Austin-Healey
Sprite and was originally intended specifically for that use. It is in
excellent condition and can be used as is. The more discerning might
want to do a light sanding and re-varnishing. It comes with a complete
mounting hub (not the horn or emblem). I would prefer to see it go to
a loving Sprite home where it would be appreciated for it's beauty and
originality. I paid approximately $325.00 for it. A modern equivalent
would run nearly double that. Feel free to make me an offer. If it
can't find a new home with one of you, I will put it on e-Bay in a week
or so. You can contact me directly at HealeyHundred@comcast.net, or by
phone at 303-756-7427 during the day time. Sorry to bomb the list, but
wanted to offer it here before having to put it on e-Bay.
Images at: http://homepage.mac.com/juli_richard_gordon/PhotoAlbum6.html
Click on the image to get a larger view.
Thanks,
Richard Gordon
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 12:38:10 -0700
Subject: Re: Grille surround removal
John Snyder
----- Original Message -----
From: "R.J. Denton" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
Cc: "daniel white" <dwhite4949@earthlink.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 22, 2003 11:23 AM
Subject: Re: Grille surround removal
> The Moss surround will not be long enough to fit properly, nor will the
Victoria
> Bristish piece fit. Actually the only replacement piece will be either NOS
or
> used if you care about it fitting.
>
> Bob Denton
>
> John Snyder wrote:
>
> > The grill surround will only come out from the front. The grill itself
> > comes out from the back. You must remove the grill first, then the
grill
> > surround. There are 2 very small nuts at the outboard ends of the
"grill
> > hood" (item #60 in the Moss catalog,) which must be removed b/4 the
grill
> > surround and grill hood are removes as a unit. Then push the top of the
> > surround/hood rocking it forward, then lift it up to clear the bottom
tabs.
> > A larger hammer, or any hammer, is not a good solution :-)
> >
> > John Snyder
> >
> > > Hello Listers,
> > > I've checked the shop manual and list archives and can't solve my
> > > problem. I'm trying to remove the chrome grille surround assembly on
my
> > > BN7 Mk II. The nuts are removed from the backside (top and bottom)
and
> > > looking from the backside I can see the mounting tabs top and bottom
> > > which would prevent pulling it out from the front. So... I'm pushing
it
> > > from the front to get out from the rear and it just doesn't want to
> > > move. If I push any harder I'm afraid I'll damage the shroud opening.
> > > Any thoughts before I use a larger hammer?
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 17:03:03 -0400
Subject: Re: Condensation in fuel guage
Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Wood
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2003 1:52 PM
Subject: Condensation in fuel guage
For some reason I have been having condensation
forming behind the face on the fuel guage. What is
strange to me is that when the car sits, no moisture
is visible. Shortly after I start it up, still parked
in the garage, I notice the guage start to fog up a
little, and after I drive a while, I will notice that
it is clear. This cycle has repeated itself several
times, but the fuel guage is the only one affected.
Any ideas???
Jim Wood
'67 BJ8
__________________________________
The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo.
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From Magnus Karlsson <492karlsson at telia.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 23 May 2003 00:08:18 +0200
Subject: Re: Condensation in fuel guage
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From alan at andysnet.net
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 17:20:37 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Austin Healey Bugeye Site
Alan HBJ8L/34297 (Aint-it-fun)
Almost ready to drive over LBC week. Been working on it (her? him?) for 3
years. Had it out for a few very short drives within walking distance of
house.
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 19:12:57 EDT
Subject: Healey Open Roads Grill Badge
eBay Motors item 2416184400
David Nock
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From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 20:21:23 -0400
Subject: RE: Condensation in fuel guage
Gary R. Cox
Bradenton, FL
'67 BJ8 (registered for Conclave 2003)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of BJ8Healeys
Sent: Thursday, May 22, 2003 5:03 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Condensation in fuel guage
Hi, Jim -
I'll add my experience to yours and the others who have chimed in:
My BJ8 fuel gauge (and only the fuel gauge) has done this for the 19 years I
have owned my car. It seems to be a common characteristic of BJ8s, and
nobody has an explanation for it so far. I once broke my gauge while
trying
to get the moisture out of it, had to send it off for repair, and when it
returned, it did exactly the same thing and still does.
Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Wood
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2003 1:52 PM
Subject: Condensation in fuel guage
For some reason I have been having condensation
forming behind the face on the fuel guage. What is
strange to me is that when the car sits, no moisture
is visible. Shortly after I start it up, still parked
in the garage, I notice the guage start to fog up a
little, and after I drive a while, I will notice that
it is clear. This cycle has repeated itself several
times, but the fuel guage is the only one affected.
Any ideas???
Jim Wood
'67 BJ8
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 18:00:50 -0700
Subject: Condensation in fuel guage
Same here, except it's 23 years for me! I always thought that this fuel
gauge fogging had something to do with living in a west-coast rain forest,
so to speak.
I recall another lister speculating awhile back that it was possibly a
result of heat generated by the little coils inside the instrument - that
would explain why the fogging goes away fairly quickly after start up, but
where does it come from, especially if the car has been sitting for a long
period?
Another problem: Why only BJ8's? My other Healey's never had a sign of
fuel gauge fogging, and the whole set-up is pretty much the same as far as I
can tell on the earlier cars - same little coils in the gauge.
Sounds like a challenge to me! How about an anti-fog coating on the inside
of the gauge glass?
Any comments?
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 22, 2003 2:03 PM
Subject: Re: Condensation in fuel guage
Hi, Jim -
I'll add my experience to yours and the others who have chimed in:
My BJ8 fuel gauge (and only the fuel gauge) has done this for the 19 years I
have owned my car. It seems to be a common characteristic of BJ8s, and
nobody has an explanation for it so far. I once broke my gauge while
trying
to get the moisture out of it, had to send it off for repair, and when it
returned, it did exactly the same thing and still does.
Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Wood
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2003 1:52 PM
Subject: Condensation in fuel guage
For some reason I have been having condensation
forming behind the face on the fuel guage. What is
strange to me is that when the car sits, no moisture
is visible. Shortly after I start it up, still parked
in the garage, I notice the guage start to fog up a
little, and after I drive a while, I will notice that
it is clear. This cycle has repeated itself several
times, but the fuel guage is the only one affected.
Any ideas???
Jim Wood
'67 BJ8
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From DrBerkowitz at aol.com
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 21:39:52 EDT
Subject: Condensation in fuel guage
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From Tysonoxford at aol.com
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 21:42:10 EDT
Subject: project wanted
Mal Bruce
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From "Ron Davies, DDS" <rdavies1 at cox.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 19:22:26 -0700
Subject: A great compliment--
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From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 19:33:58 -0700
Subject: Re: Condensation in fuel guage
----- Original Message -----
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
Cc: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 22, 2003 6:00 PM
Subject: Condensation in fuel guage
> Jim / Steve:
>
> Same here, except it's 23 years for me! I always thought that this fuel
> gauge fogging had something to do with living in a west-coast rain forest,
> so to speak.
>
> I recall another lister speculating awhile back that it was possibly a
> result of heat generated by the little coils inside the instrument - that
> would explain why the fogging goes away fairly quickly after start up, but
> where does it come from, especially if the car has been sitting for a long
> period?
>
> Another problem: Why only BJ8's? My other Healey's never had a sign of
> fuel gauge fogging, and the whole set-up is pretty much the same as far as
I
> can tell on the earlier cars - same little coils in the gauge.
>
> Sounds like a challenge to me! How about an anti-fog coating on the
inside
> of the gauge glass?
>
> Any comments?
>
> Earl Kagna
> Victoria, B. C. Canada
> '62 BT7 tri-carb
> '67 BJ8
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, May 22, 2003 2:03 PM
> Subject: Re: Condensation in fuel guage
>
>
> Hi, Jim -
> I'll add my experience to yours and the others who have chimed in:
> My BJ8 fuel gauge (and only the fuel gauge) has done this for the 19 years
I
> have owned my car. It seems to be a common characteristic of BJ8s, and
> nobody has an explanation for it so far. I once broke my gauge while
> trying
> to get the moisture out of it, had to send it off for repair, and when it
> returned, it did exactly the same thing and still does.
>
> Happy Healeying!
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC USA
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jim Wood
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2003 1:52 PM
> Subject: Condensation in fuel guage
>
>
> For some reason I have been having condensation
> forming behind the face on the fuel guage. What is
> strange to me is that when the car sits, no moisture
> is visible. Shortly after I start it up, still parked
> in the garage, I notice the guage start to fog up a
> little, and after I drive a while, I will notice that
> it is clear. This cycle has repeated itself several
> times, but the fuel guage is the only one affected.
>
> Any ideas???
>
> Jim Wood
> '67 BJ8
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From "Ron Davies, DDS" <rdavies1 at cox.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 19:26:23 -0700
Subject: RE: Condensation in fuel guage
Jim / Steve:
Same here, except it's 23 years for me! I always thought that this fuel
gauge fogging had something to do with living in a west-coast rain forest,
so to speak.
I recall another lister speculating awhile back that it was possibly a
result of heat generated by the little coils inside the instrument - that
would explain why the fogging goes away fairly quickly after start up, but
where does it come from, especially if the car has been sitting for a long
period?
Another problem: Why only BJ8's? My other Healey's never had a sign of
fuel gauge fogging, and the whole set-up is pretty much the same as far as I
can tell on the earlier cars - same little coils in the gauge.
Sounds like a challenge to me! How about an anti-fog coating on the inside
of the gauge glass?
Any comments?
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 23 May 2003 12:35:12 +1000
Subject: Condensation in fuel gauge
I am really surprised that the archives are not referred to more often.
A couple of years back I wrote a perfectly logical treatise that explained
where all this fog was coming from. Anyone who lives in the UK, Australia, New
Zealand will know instantly what's happening.
It's because Austin-Healeys and Smiths gauges were originally designed to run
on petrol. As soon as our good friends in North America started using gas all
sorts of problems arose. Petrol is a liquid and gas, well it's a gas and
therefore wants to escape each time you run over a bump or the like. It
certainly doesn't help being left hand drive either as the wire carrying the
gas has further to run from the gas tank and therefore has more places to
escape from. The most obvious place is through the gas gauge in the form of
fog. If you were to convert your gas tank and gas gauge over to petrol you
would have no further problem - I guarantee it.
You guys have done it all wrong, as North Americans also have far worse fuel
economy than what we have. Our cars go quite a bit further on a gallon of
petrol than your cars do on a gallon of gas. Even when we buy a gallon we get
more as well.
Swap over from gas and you'll soon notice the difference.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
**********************************************************************
This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain
privileged information or confidential information or both. If you
are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender.
**********************************************************************
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 20:38:34 -0600
Subject: Re: Condensation in fuel guage
I suspect that the moisture in the gage is caused by the gage slightly
heating & cooling & thus breathing & drawing in moist air. The heating
is caused by the current flowing in the gage coils. When it gets warm
the condensation vaporizes. This is the only gage that has electrical
coils in it.
Dave Russell
BJ8Healeys wrote:
> Hi, Jim -
> It seems to be a common characteristic of BJ8s, and
> nobody has an explanation for it so far.
>
> Happy Healeying!
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC USA
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 20:43:13 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: project wanted
Boy, would it!
Alan
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From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 23 May 2003 01:14:52 EDT
Subject: Re: Condensation in fuel guage
I like Patrick Quinn's explanation a whole lot more. LOL.
Cheers,
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 :{)
In a message dated 5/22/03 7:42:39 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
rusd@velocitus.net writes:
<< I suspect that the moisture in the gage is caused by the gage slightly
heating & cooling & thus breathing & drawing in moist air. The heating
is caused by the current flowing in the gage coils. When it gets warm
the condensation vaporizes. This is the only gage that has electrical
coils in it.
Dave Russell >>
In a message dated 5/22/03 7:38:25 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au writes:
<< G'day
I am really surprised that the archives are not referred to more often.
A couple of years back I wrote a perfectly logical treatise that explained
where all this fog was coming from. Anyone who lives in the UK, Australia, New
Zealand will know instantly what's happening.
It's because Austin-Healeys and Smiths gauges were originally designed to
run on petrol. As soon as our good friends in North America started using gas
all sorts of problems arose. Petrol is a liquid and gas, well it's a gas and
therefore wants to escape each time you run over a bump or the like. It
certainly
doesn't help being left hand drive either as the wire carrying the gas has
further to run from the gas tank and therefore has more places to escape from.
The most obvious place is through the gas gauge in the form of fog. If you were
to convert your gas tank and gas gauge over to petrol you would have no
further problem - I guarantee it.
You guys have done it all wrong, as North Americans also have far worse fuel
economy than what we have. Our cars go quite a bit further on a gallon of
petrol than your cars do on a gallon of gas. Even when we buy a gallon we get
more as well.
Swap over from gas and you'll soon notice the difference.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1 >>
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 23:14:02 -0600
Subject: Re: Condensation in fuel gauge
Bill lawrence
"Quinn, Patrick" wrote:
> G'day
>
> I am really surprised that the archives are not referred to more often.
>
> A couple of years back I wrote a perfectly logical treatise that explained
>where all this fog was coming from. Anyone who lives in the UK, Australia, New
>Zealand will know instantly what's happening.
>
> It's because Austin-Healeys and Smiths gauges were originally designed to run
>on petrol. As soon as our good friends in North America started using gas all
>sorts of problems arose. Petrol is a liquid and gas, well it's a gas and
>therefore wants to escape each time you run over a bump or the like. It
>certainly doesn't help being left hand drive either as the wire carrying the
>gas has further to run from the gas tank and therefore has more places to
>escape from. The most obvious place is through the gas gauge in the form of
>fog. If you were to convert your gas tank and gas gauge over to petrol you
>would have no further problem - I guarantee it.
>
> You guys have done it all wrong, as North Americans also have far worse fuel
>economy than what we have. Our cars go quite a bit further on a gallon of
>petrol than your cars do on a gallon of gas. Even when we buy a gallon we get
>more as well.
>
> Swap over from gas and you'll soon notice the difference.
>
> Regards
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
>
> 1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
> 1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
> **********************************************************************
> This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain
> privileged information or confidential information or both. If you
> are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender.
> **********************************************************************
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 22:26:44 -0700
Subject: Re: Condensation in fuel gauge
Tried petrol a couple of years back (I live in 'British' Columbia) - didn't
work - fuel gauge still fogged. Switched back to gas, especially when
travelling in the US.
Good point regarding the superior fuel economy with Imperial gallons, but it
didn't help us Canadians when we went metric and now have to think in
litres! One advantage is that when we fill up the tank (either petrol or
gas), we have a lot more of them, and so should be able to go a lot further
on a tank.
I think I'll run a test this weekend: disconnect the wire to the fuel gauge
and see if the fog stays in the tank. If not, I may have to call on you for
help!
Cheers,
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 22, 2003 7:35 PM
Subject: Condensation in fuel gauge
G'day
I am really surprised that the archives are not referred to more often.
A couple of years back I wrote a perfectly logical treatise that explained
where all this fog was coming from. Anyone who lives in the UK, Australia,
New Zealand will know instantly what's happening.
It's because Austin-Healeys and Smiths gauges were originally designed to
run on petrol. As soon as our good friends in North America started using
gas all sorts of problems arose. Petrol is a liquid and gas, well it's a gas
and therefore wants to escape each time you run over a bump or the like. It
certainly doesn't help being left hand drive either as the wire carrying the
gas has further to run from the gas tank and therefore has more places to
escape from. The most obvious place is through the gas gauge in the form of
fog. If you were to convert your gas tank and gas gauge over to petrol you
would have no further problem - I guarantee it.
You guys have done it all wrong, as North Americans also have far worse fuel
economy than what we have. Our cars go quite a bit further on a gallon of
petrol than your cars do on a gallon of gas. Even when we buy a gallon we
get more as well.
Swap over from gas and you'll soon notice the difference.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
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From MeditionM at netscape.net
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 23 May 2003 02:46:35 -0400
Subject: Need Finish Help
__________________________________________________________________
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From DLthm at aol.com
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 23 May 2003 02:49:05 EDT
Subject: Gas / Petrol
Dave Latham
Wales UK.
53 BN1
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From LarryRPH at aol.com
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 23 May 2003 06:38:19 EDT
Subject: Re: Condensation in fuel guage
The condensation on the face of the fuel gauge is caused the electric coils
inside the device.
This phenomenon is not limited to BJ 8's. I have a BJ 7 and a BN 6 and they
both do the same thing. The gauge is not air tight and the moisture comes
from the environment.
I have the same thing happen to a Movado wristwatch especially when I am in
a very humid area. Anyone else notice this in a battery powered watch?
Larry Wysocki
PS Earl, are you going to conclave in DC ?
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 23 May 2003 06:58:38 -0400
Subject: RE: Gas / Petrol
If we don't want our fuel gauges to fog up we need to move to Wales.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of DLthm@aol.com
Sent: 23-May-03 2:49 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Gas / Petrol
I Like Patrick's ideas about Gas / V / Petrol but my problem is
compounded as
I have a girlfriend who lives in California. She stay with me in the UK
several months of the year and it has taken months to understand the
meaning of
trunks (UK swim gear) hoods (UK head gear) Gas (UK cooking and heating
fuel)
Fender (UK fire surround).
I cry when I stay in her home town, San Diego at the price of their gas,
its
about a quarter of what our petrol costs and still they moan about it
being
expensive.
The other problem is that my Yank still after weeks here gets in the
wrong
side of the car when a passenger, when she first asked about staying
with me she
said her main concern was driving on the "wrong" side of the road, she
soon
found out that the country lanes where I live in rural Wales has no
"wrong" or
"right" side most lanes are single track ! By the way I have not seen
fog in
my fuel gage.
Dave Latham
Wales UK.
53 BN1
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 23 May 2003 07:04:05 -0400
Subject: RE: Need Finish Help
As far as I have been able to tell both the door striker plates, which
we used to make, and the throttle linkages, including the choke control
parts, were zinc plated, as were many other parts.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of MeditionM@netscape.net
Sent: 23-May-03 2:47 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Need Finish Help
I have posted this inquiry recently but have received no responses. I
am at that point in the restoration of my BJ7 where I need to know what
finish is standard on the throttle linkage and the door striker plates.
I have several publications (i.e.: The Originality Guide For
Restorations And Registry Inspections and The Austin Healey
b&Restoration Guide by Anderson and Moment), but they are silent on the
subject. Can anyone out there with a proper car raise the hood and/or
open the door and let me know the answer to the finish on the throttle
linkage from the pedal through the carbs, and what finish is on the door
latch striker plate.
Thanks
Ken Mason
__________________________________________________________________
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From "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson at earthlink.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 23 May 2003 05:30:27 -0700
Subject: RE: Gas / Petrol
> -----Excerpt Original Message-----
>
> The other problem is that my Yank still after weeks here gets in
> the wrong
> side of the car when a passenger,
>
> Dave Latham
> Wales UK.
> 53 BN1
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From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 23 May 2003 07:28:40 -0500
Subject: Re: Condensation in fuel gauge
HoYo
----- Original Message -----
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 22, 2003 9:35 PM
Subject: Condensation in fuel gauge
> G'day
>
> I am really surprised that the archives are not referred to more often.
>
> A couple of years back I wrote a perfectly logical treatise that explained
where all this fog was coming from. Anyone who lives in the UK, Australia,
New Zealand will know instantly what's happening.
>
> It's because Austin-Healeys and Smiths gauges were originally designed to
run on petrol. As soon as our good friends in North America started using
gas all sorts of problems arose. Petrol is a liquid and gas, well it's a gas
and therefore wants to escape each time you run over a bump or the like. It
certainly doesn't help being left hand drive either as the wire carrying the
gas has further to run from the gas tank and therefore has more places to
escape from. The most obvious place is through the gas gauge in the form of
fog. If you were to convert your gas tank and gas gauge over to petrol you
would have no further problem - I guarantee it.
>
> You guys have done it all wrong, as North Americans also have far worse
fuel economy than what we have. Our cars go quite a bit further on a gallon
of petrol than your cars do on a gallon of gas. Even when we buy a gallon we
get more as well.
>
> Swap over from gas and you'll soon notice the difference.
>
> Regards
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
>
> 1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
> 1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
> **********************************************************************
> This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain
> privileged information or confidential information or both. If you
> are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender.
> **********************************************************************
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From "James Sailer" <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 23 May 2003 07:00:21 -0600
Subject: Subject: Condensation in fuel gauge
Jams painted on my BJ8... will be next week before the final paint goes on
though...
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
93 Land Rover D110
03 Mini Cooper S - license plate 2FUNN
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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 23 May 2003 10:04:03 -0500
Subject: Best way to attch hood hinges to fire wall mounting points
Michael said that many simply use a threaded fastener there, but could not
determine what I needed or if they had it...........SO,..
Any suggestions on what to use behind the fire wall to attach the hood
hinges to the chassis/body?
Thanks in advance,
Brian
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 23 May 2003 12:16:26 EDT
Subject: Re: Best way to attch hood hinges to fire wall mounting points
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
IF there are attached files and you are unable to open please use.
<A HREF="http://www.stuffit.com/expander/";>StuffIt Expander: Unzip zip,
access StuffIt filb&</A>
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From Jim Wood <jwood_kc at yahoo.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 23 May 2003 09:35:02 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Another BJ8 guage question
In case you can't tell, I am just now at the fun point
in an 18 month restoration where I am getting to know
how this this old girl operates outside of the garage.
I have a new Heritage interior on order, but that
hasn't stopped me from enjoying a maiden voyage with
the old seats temporarily bolted down.
We passed our state inspection with the old seats
temporarily in place and we can now operate legally on
the streets in Kansas City. The first time on the
highway where I was able to get the speed up to 60 or
so, I could see that the wheels are in need of
balancing, but otherwise the old girl ran quite well.
I also realized quickly that the rear seat pans need
to be bolted down too, but that's a simple fix.
I also found that the bullet style mirrors I bought
from VB look nice, unfortunately they are quite
useless, except perhaps for looking at the shoes of
the patrol officer that pulled me over just to get a
closer look at the car. (good thing it is legal).
Life is good....
Jim Wood
'67 BJ8
__________________________________
The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo.
http://search.yahoo.com
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From "Ed Adams" <JE.Adams at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 23 May 2003 13:57:09 -0400
Subject: Re: Best way to attch hood hinges to fire wall mounting points
Ed A
The
>clevis pins or anti rattle washers that create the pivot point for the hood
>hinges behind the fire wall. Moss says N/A as well.
>
>Michael said that many simply use a threaded fastener there, but could not
>determine what I needed or if they had it...........SO,..
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Fri, 23 May 2003 14:20:04 -0400
Subject: Best way to attch hood hinges to fire wall mounting points MK1
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From Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Fri, 23 May 2003 11:46:04 -0700
Subject: Fwd: Dist drive bush
> From: Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz@earthlink.net>
> Date: Thu May 22, 2003 4:32:54 PM US/Pacific
> To: info@precisionsportscar.com
> Subject: Dist drive bush
>
> Thanks for your help Michael. After e-mailing various firms in England
> the best I could do was a good used unit from D.W . Some of the
> responses were interesting,one did not know it existed ,one said that
> in ten years they had never replaced one,you seemed to have found a
> need now and then ,so you may be an authority on the subject. I would
> think that this problem effects camshaft wear on many clapped out
> motors that are rebuilt by unsuspecting enthusiasts . One problem you
> might give advise on is the alignment of the set screw hole when
> resetting the bush.It seems to me that the bush may have been tapped
> in position at the factory. Have you done something like drill an
> easement for the set screw ? thank you so much for your advise Yours
> Jonathan Quandt
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From "Ron Fine Esq." <RonFineEsq at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Fri, 23 May 2003 13:42:57 -0700
Subject: Question about old fuel pump.
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From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Fri, 23 May 2003 21:19:07 +0100
Subject: Re: Back again, again
Peter Dzwig
Lynn and Jean Neff wrote:
>I thought I was the only one dropped from the list...for no reason. There was
>no "out of the office" communication either.
>
>It was pretty boring without this list!
>
>Lynn BT7
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From daniel white <dwhite4949 at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Fri, 23 May 2003 18:23:36 -0400
Subject: Grille surround removed
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From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Fri, 23 May 2003 23:42:04 -0400
Subject: Old English White
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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sat, 24 May 2003 00:58:22 -0500
Subject: bar badges wanted
Brian in Dallas.
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From "John Rowe" <jarowe at westnet.com.au>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sat, 24 May 2003 15:29:29 +0800
Subject: Bruno Verstraete
If you're out there please send me your email address.
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
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From "John Rowe" <jarowe at westnet.com.au>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sat, 24 May 2003 15:31:13 +0800
Subject: NEW AHC Western Australia web site
Check it out at www.temco.com.au/AHCWA
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
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From "Classic-Car-World Ltd" <enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sat, 24 May 2003 09:39:33 +0100
Subject: Re: Old English White
http://carport.virtualave.net/67mgb/67dupontpaintcode.jpg
http://www.mg-midget.com/paint.html
http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/paint.htm
Kindest regards
Tom
Tom McCay
Classic-Car-World Ltd
Tel: 01522 888178
Fax: 0870 7059115
E-mail: enquiries@classic-car-world.co.uk
URL: http://www.classic-car-world.co.uk
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dennis Broughel" <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 24, 2003 4:42 AM
Subject: Old English White
> Dear List:
> Does anyone on the list have the PPG numbers for old english white.
> I've checked the archives and can't find anything. On my 1960 duPont
> paint chart there are 2 Ivory chips, one for a big healey and the other
> for a sprite. They are different shades and different numbers but not
> PPG numbers
> thanks in advance.....Dennis Broughel........Bn-4..........45281
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From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sat, 24 May 2003 11:07:20 -0700
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump
Did you happen to measure a change in impedance as the pump "deteriorated?"
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> I will second the motion to use an aftermarket pump. But I keep the original
> in good condition and inline for concours judging.
>
> Years ago I posted a note that described fule pump tests. The conclusion I
> drew is that the originals need to be replaced as the coils deteriorate with
> use and heat.
>
> The pumps are installed right over the exhaust system and heat up under
> exhaust conditions and use. Just run a pump, pumping water and you will find
> that after 20 minutes or so, it will seize. Then let it cool and the life
> cycle deteriorates. Eventually it will only pump for a few minutes before
> seizing. The heating and cooling cycles of normal use kills the pump.
>
> However those cheap aftermarket pumps just keep working.
>
> On my car (that is seldom driven) I run two pumps inline.
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Jim LeBlanc
> 1956 100-M
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sat, 24 May 2003 14:12:02 -0400
Subject: Test only. Please ignore.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
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From "ROBERT HAY" <jerryhay at msn.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sat, 24 May 2003 16:12:13 -0400
Subject: Starters
Jerry
BT7
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From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Healey Chat Group; BGAHCList
Date: Sat, 24 May 2003 13:26:05 -0700
Subject: Starters
In the never ending saga of 40 year old cars, any opinions on the hi-torque
starters vs. a rebuilt stock one? With a new battery. all I get is a
single
click. This is the original starter, so I guess I'm due.
Jerry
BT7
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From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: Healey Chat Group; BGAHCList
Date: Sat, 24 May 2003 16:33:34 -0500
Subject: Test only. Please ignore.
> Test only!@!
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: Healey Chat Group; BGAHCList
Date: Sat, 24 May 2003 15:48:56 -0600
Subject: Re: Starters
The single click could be caused by bad cable connections, a bad battery
cut off switch,a bad cable, or a a bad solenoid. It may not be the
starter at all.
The benefits of hi torque (gear reduction) starters are kind of
subjective. If you feel that faster turnover, less battery load, great
reliability, & 7 pounds less weight justifies the considerable extra
cost, go for the modern starter. However check out the other possible
causes of your problem first.
I personally love my reduction gear starter. It sounds like I think a
starter should sound & really gets things moving. Not everyone may agree.
Dave Russell
BN2
ROBERT HAY wrote:
> In the never ending saga of 40 year old cars, any opinions on the hi-torque
> starters vs. a rebuilt stock one? With a new battery. all I get is a single
> click. This is the original starter, so I guess I'm due.
>
> Jerry
>
> BT7
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From "Ron Davies, DDS" <rdavies1 at cox.net>
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: Healey Chat Group; BGAHCList
Date: Sat, 24 May 2003 17:29:40 -0700
Subject: vinyl vs leather
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From "Rick Neves" <Rick at genomictechnologies.com>
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: Healey Chat Group; BGAHCList
Date: Sat, 24 May 2003 20:44:45 -0400
Subject: Helaey Blue - Ice Blue Mettalic for '56 BN2
I have been interested in painting my BN-2, when its complete, with the
appropriate color Healey blue for the era. The chip color for ice Blue
Metallic BU2 looks like the color of the middle Healey on the cover. I'm more
interested in the Healey 100 which is closest in the photo and I thought that
was the BU-2 color but now I'm not sure.
Can anyone provide me with the colors of these cars that are on the cover?
Sincerely
Rick Neves
'56 BN-2 in progress
Millis, MA 02054
V 508.376.2541
F 508.376.5319
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From Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: Healey Chat Group; BGAHCList
Date: Sat, 24 May 2003 21:06:45 -0400
Subject: Tire again
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: Healey Chat Group; BGAHCList
Date: Sat, 24 May 2003 21:10:22 EDT
Subject: June 1st British Car Week rallye & picnic
Best--Michael Oritt
CELEBRATE "BRITISH CAR WEEK IN SOUTHERN MARYLAND"
SUNDAY, JUNE 1ST, 2003--RAIN OR SHINE
UPDATED PAGE!
The Second Annual celebration of British Car Week in Southern Maryland will
take place at Little Cove Farm in Saint Leonard, MD.on Sunday, June 1st, 2003.
We again invite the entire British Car community to take a pleasant drive in
the lovely Southern Maryland countryside and join us for a relaxed, free-form
picnic with other LBC (Little British Car) owners and their families. And on
your way down you're also welcome to participate in "The Great Patuxent Valley
Rallye" which will start that morning near Upper Marlboro, MD. and end at the
farm front gate.
The main event is a picnic at Little Cove Farm, and all are invited to pack
family and/or pets aboard, bring whatever they may want to eat, drink and play
with, and come out for a day of fun and fellowship with others who enjoy
driving and owning vintage vehicles. This year we will be setting up large
tents
and picnic tables to provide shade and comfortable seating. We'll also have
more
to do and enjoy: Live music ("Fiddler Miriam" O'Conner and the Joe Curta
Band), hayrides, nature walks, a beekeeper's exhibit, etc. If you're coming
directly to the picnic, arrive anytime after 10:00 A.M.
Mary and I are supporters of the local hospice agency, CALVERT HOSPICE. We
have placed miniature Hospice Houses at the entrance to the farm and at our
house. We ask, in the spirit of community and doing for others, that you
please
consider making a donation to the Calvert Hospice House Building Campaign.
When
built, this new Hospice House will serve the community to provide care for
those terminally ill who cannot afford it. You can put your donation in the
front
door of the miniature Hospice Houses on the way in or at the house. We thank
you so very much.
The rallye is of the "Observation" type--there are no distances to measure,
average speeds to maintain or the like. Rather, you'll be given a set of
simple
driving instructions and asked to supply answers to questions relating to
what you will see along the 50-mile course. All you need to bring is a pencil
and
a sense of humor--you can even run it without a navigator, but having someone
to help you find the answers will be more fun. Rallye Drivers can get an
early start any time after 9:30 AM-last car out by 10:15 AM-just show up at
the
Marlboro Crossing Shopping Center in front of the Giant Store-The Rallye will
take about 1-1/2 hours to run on rural roads along the shores of the Patuxent
River in Southern Maryland's lovely countryside. The course ends at our farm
and
awards will be presented at the picnic during the afternoon.
Last year we had about 65 cars--This year we are expecting many more, and you
can help make it so: Pass the word along to your friends and fellow car-club
members, and have this event placed on your club's calendar and in its
newsletter: The web address for this page is: <A
HREF="http://www.chesapeake.net/%7Eoritt/%20";>www.chesapeake.net/~oritt/ </A>
TO REACH THE PICNIC: Saint Leonard, MD, is about midway between Prince
Frederick and Solomons Island on Route 4 (less than an hour from the Capital
Beltway or Annapolis). Turn west off of Route 4 at Parran Road, go about 1
mile to a
T-intersection at Mackall Road, turn left and go 2 miles to Garrity Road,
turn left and go 1/4 mile to Little Cove Farm at 2455 Garrity Road -- Just
follow
the British flags!
TO REACH THE RALLYE: From Route 4 and US 301 (near Upper Marlboro) go south
on 301 about 1/10 mile and enter the Giant Supermarket parking lot (east side
of 301). The Driver's Meeting will commence at 10:00 AM and cars will start
immediately thereafter. Driving the rallye will take about an hour and a half
and the course ends at the farm -- We guarantee that you can't get lost!
We look forward to seeing you--Michael and Mary Oritt. For further
information email us at: <A HREF="http:///";>awgertoo@aol.com</A><A
HREF="http://www.chesapeake.net/~oritt/contactus.htm";> </A>
This page was updated May 19th - No further updates are expected, and this
event will happen
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: Healey Chat Group; BGAHCList
Date: Sat, 24 May 2003 18:37:53 -0700
Subject: Re: vinyl vs leather
"Ron Davies, DDS" wrote:
> I'm getting ready to do the interior of my BJ8.
>
> Thanks,
> Ron
> 67 BJ8
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From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: Healey Chat Group; BGAHCList
Date: Sat, 24 May 2003 22:25:29 -0400
Subject: RE: Tire again
Peter Schauss
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Steven Tjepkema
Sent: Saturday, May 24, 2003 9:07 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Tire again
Hi everybody I know we did this before but I an going for tires this week
and I need everybodys input. It`s for a 58bn4 100-6 72 spoke. I
here a lot of talk about Michelin zx 175x15 Thanks for your input Steve
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: Healey Chat Group; BGAHCList
Date: Sat, 24 May 2003 22:26:56 -0600
Subject: Re: Tire again
This is kind of like asking what is your favorite beer? A very
subjective choice. I like the Michelin 175 ZX. It is a little closer to
the original diameter than the 165 tires & makes ground clearance
better, if this is important. Wet traction is good & they are quiet.
Dave Russell
BN2
Steven Tjepkema wrote:
> Hi everybody I know we did this before but I an going for tires this
> week and I need everybodys input. It`s for a 58bn4 100-6 72 spoke. I
> here a lot of talk about Michelin zx 175x15 Thanks for your input
> Steve
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: Healey Chat Group; BGAHCList
Date: Sun, 25 May 2003 00:34:54 EDT
Subject: Re: Starters
* * * * * * * * * *
Tech Talk by Norman Nock $30.00 + S H
A Collection on my tech. articles, that have been in various magazines along
with factory and Lucas bulletins about how things work. In easy to understand
writing. 221 pages Call me for more information at 209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
When I am in a used book store , I always go looking for old , British Car
books.
Sometime ago I found one about LUCAS ignition . The store owner told me he
had had these books 10 years and never sold one , so I purchased his complete
stock .
This book tells just about everything you would need to know about " HOW
IT WORKS ''. For example , the coil - function and troubleshooting ,
distributors , centrifugal and vacuum advance , high performance engines ,
timing light
. electronic ignition , trouble shooting .
The last 41 pages list over 1,000 distributors by part number, model ,
centrifugal advance degrees at three different R.P.M , and at what R.P.M there
is
zero advance .
Copies are available for $ 15.00 + S.H Norman Nock - British Car
Specialists
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From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: Healey Chat Group; BGAHCList
Date: Sun, 25 May 2003 01:01:46 EDT
Subject: Re: vinyl vs leather
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: Healey Chat Group; BGAHCList
Date: Sun, 25 May 2003 09:53:19 -0500
Subject: Re: Tire again
You can look up specs on the web at places like the tire rack (.com) or the
specific manufacturers sites.
I have run both tires on British cars and have been pleased with either.
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: Healey Chat Group; BGAHCList
Date: Sun, 25 May 2003 09:01:00 -0700
Subject: Re: vinyl vs leather
You didn't indicate the colour of your interior trim.
If red, fading over time is a consideration, with any material. If black or
blue, (or the grey, for that matter), fading is not a huge problem.
Bear in mind that most of our Healeys are now 'hobby' cars and don't get the
use that they did in the first part of their lives - we care for them a lot
better these days. Also, if it took 35+ years to get to this point, are we
really going to worry about what the car is going to look like 35 years from
now? Not me!
Rader makes a good point about the smell. I am about to redo my BJ8, which
still has it's original ambla (vinyl) trim - it's in really good shape for a
high-mileage car (it's a golden beige car - black trim), good enough to be
re-installed.
I've already made the decision to install a leather interior, either from
Heritage, or from AH Spares in the UK - a couple of friends have used them
here in BJ8's - they are excellent kits.
Also, I saw a BJ8 last weekend with a newly installed red vinyl interior
from Heritage - it was excellent.
Choices, choices ---------------------
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Davies, DDS" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 24, 2003 5:29 PM
Subject: vinyl vs leather
I'm getting ready to do the interior of my BJ8.
It has vinyl and it held up rather well. The stitching is giving way
finally.
Now I have to decide whether to go leather or vinyl this time.
I'm told that leather fades rather quickly if you drive with the top down
alot as I do in So Calif.
Any experienced input greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Ron
67 BJ8
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From "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete at skynet.be>
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: Healey Chat Group; BGAHCList
Date: Sun, 25 May 2003 18:05:02 +0200
Subject: Overdrive on 2nd gear
my dad mentioned to me that my MK3 has overdrive not only on 3 and 4th gear
but also on 2nd gear.
After a moment of disbelief and checking had to admit that this is correct
and working nicely.
I must admit that in the Swiss mountains this feature is actually quite
pleasant.
Would this show a problem of the overdrive or one of these weird Healey
things.
Anyone else having this feature?
Regards,
Bruno
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: Healey Chat Group; BGAHCList
Date: Sun, 25 May 2003 12:16:51 -0700
Subject: Re: Tire again
Greg,
I have noticed this too over the years. As you know the width of the tire
is given through the sidewall, not the rubber on the road. Why do you
suppose that the rubber on the road for any given size has increased over
the years?
Keith Pennell
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: Healey Chat Group; BGAHCList
Date: Sun, 25 May 2003 13:22:53 -0400
Subject: Re: Tire again
This is kind of a tricky area. It's commonly said that a wider tread puts
more rubber on the road, but really, it just changes the shape of the patch,
not its area.
The area of the contact patch varies with inflation pressure, not tire width,
and will be approximately the same for a given pressure, for any reasonable
width (there are some effects of rubber elasticity that start to be
significant at extreme [e.g., racing slick] widths.)
Some reasons for wider tread?
1) Less flexing of the tire
2) Higher cornering loads, and
3) They 're thought to be cool. :-)
4) Lots of others I can't think of at the moment...
--
John Miller
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From "Rick Neves" <Rick at genomictechnologies.com>
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: Healey Chat Group; BGAHCList
Date: Sun, 25 May 2003 14:01:32 -0400
Subject: Healey Blue Color
I have been interested in painting my BN-2, when its complete, with the
appropriate color Healey blue for the era. The chip color for ice Blue
Metallic BU2 looks like the color of the middle Healey on the cover. I'm more
interested in the Healey 100 which is closest in the photo and I thought that
was the BU-2 color but now I'm not sure.
Can anyone provide me with the colors of these cars that are on the cover?
Sincerely
Rick Neves
'56 BN-2 in progress
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: Healey Chat Group; BGAHCList
Date: Sun, 25 May 2003 11:11:44 -0700
Subject: Re: Overdrive on 2nd gear
You need to check the gearbox switch on the transmission - it may have been
bypassed. If this is the case, overdrive will be enabled anytime the
drivers switch is in the on position, including for first gear as well.
The problem is that overdrive could inadvertently remain engaged when
reverse gear is used - this will immediately destroy the one way clutch in
the overdrive - an expensive proposition indeed!
The only other possibility that I can think of is that someone has gone to a
lot of trouble to modify the shift lever mechanism to give overdrive in 2nd
gear - I would doubt that.
In any case, you need to check it out.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
From: "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete@skynet.be>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 25, 2003 9:05 AM
Subject: Overdrive on 2nd gear
Hi Healey listers,
my dad mentioned to me that my MK3 has overdrive not only on 3 and 4th gear
but also on 2nd gear.
After a moment of disbelief and checking had to admit that this is correct
and working nicely.
I must admit that in the Swiss mountains this feature is actually quite
pleasant.
Would this show a problem of the overdrive or one of these weird Healey
things.
Anyone else having this feature?
Regards,
Bruno
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: Healey Chat Group; BGAHCList
Date: Sun, 25 May 2003 12:23:39 -0600
Subject: Re: Overdrive on 2nd gear
The only time that I had this 'feature" was when the gear box switch was
out of adjustment. The OD likely works on first & reverse also. If you
try to use reverse with OD engaged, there may be some serious damage.
Dave Russell
BN2
Bruno Verstraete wrote:
> Hi Healey listers,
>
> my dad mentioned to me that my MK3 has overdrive not only on 3 and 4th gear
> but also on 2nd gear.
> After a moment of disbelief and checking had to admit that this is correct
> and working nicely.
> I must admit that in the Swiss mountains this feature is actually quite
> pleasant.
> Would this show a problem of the overdrive or one of these weird Healey
> things.
>
> Anyone else having this feature?
>
> Regards,
> Bruno
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: Healey Chat Group; BGAHCList
Date: Sun, 25 May 2003 15:15:53 -0400
Subject: RE: Overdrive on 2nd gear
The gearbox on your car has a switch to prevent the overdrive being used
in 1st, 2nd or reverse gears. Yours is apparently not working.
Reverse gear will damage the overdrive badly and rapidly.
The unit is designed to accept only a certain amount of torque and the
torque multiplication provided by the gearbox in 1st or 2nd gear
produces torque numbers that greater that the maximum load for which the
unit was designed.
It might last for a good while if you resist using high throttle but
eventually the unit will probably suffer from the experience.
Cheers,
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bruno Verstraete
Sent: 25-May-03 12:05 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Overdrive on 2nd gear
Hi Healey listers,
my dad mentioned to me that my MK3 has overdrive not only on 3 and 4th
gear
but also on 2nd gear.
After a moment of disbelief and checking had to admit that this is
correct
and working nicely.
I must admit that in the Swiss mountains this feature is actually quite
pleasant.
Would this show a problem of the overdrive or one of these weird Healey
things.
Anyone else having this feature?
Regards,
Bruno
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: Healey Chat Group; BGAHCList
Date: Sun, 25 May 2003 15:22:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Overdrive on 2nd gear
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete@skynet.be>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 25, 2003 12:05 PM
Subject: Overdrive on 2nd gear
> Hi Healey listers,
>
> my dad mentioned to me that my MK3 has overdrive not only on 3 and 4th
gear
> but also on 2nd gear.
> After a moment of disbelief and checking had to admit that this is correct
> and working nicely.
> I must admit that in the Swiss mountains this feature is actually quite
> pleasant.
> Would this show a problem of the overdrive or one of these weird Healey
> things.
>
> Anyone else having this feature?
>
> Regards,
> Bruno
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From "Rick Neves" <Rick at genomictechnologies.com>
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: Healey Chat Group; BGAHCList
Date: Sun, 25 May 2003 17:04:21 -0400
Subject: Repair Panels vs. New Panel on rear quarter
On the other hand, I've heard some of the horror stories about trying to fit
all new panels onto a Healey and that a lot of the original panels were hand
picked at the factory and that the original panels are best to keep if you
can.
The question is do I purchase whole new panels for ~590 USD or go the repair
route which is ~190USD just for the parts?
Sincerely
Rick Neves
'56 BN-2
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: Healey Chat Group; BGAHCList
Date: Sun, 25 May 2003 17:24:06 -0500
Subject: Re: Repair Panels vs. New Panel on rear quarter
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From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: Healey Chat Group; BGAHCList
Date: Sun, 25 May 2003 19:06:33 -0500
Subject: Trunk Liner/Interior Installation
I very recently received my very nicely tailored trunk liner set and interior
pieces for my '57 BN4 restoration project from Heritage, but there were no
installation instructions provided. Do any of you happen to know of any
helpful instructions that are readily available?
Much thanks,
Scott Helms
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From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete@skynet.be>;
Date: Sun, 25 May 2003 17:06:28 -0700
Subject: Re: Overdrive on 2nd gear
> Just think for a moment,
>
> Back in the 50's / 60's going from a three (3) speed column
> shift tranny to a four (4) speed floor shift was the ticket to
> becoming the Big Dog on the block.
>
> The Big Dogs now have six (6) speed trannys and they think
> they are something large.
>
> We (Healey Dogs) have had eight (8) speed trannys since 1954
> and think nothing of it.
>
> Appears the Big Dogs have a way to go to catch up with our
> oldies but goodies LBC's
>
> Beware though, the reverse gear gremlins will ruin your whole day
> (and transmission) if left in this configuration. ;~(
>
> Kirk
>
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete@skynet.be>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, May 25, 2003 9:05 AM
> Subject: Overdrive on 2nd gear
>
>
> > Hi Healey listers,
> >
> > my dad mentioned to me that my MK3 has overdrive not only on 3 and 4th
> gear
> > but also on 2nd gear.
> > After a moment of disbelief and checking had to admit that this is
correct
> > and working nicely.
> > I must admit that in the Swiss mountains this feature is actually quite
> > pleasant.
> > Would this show a problem of the overdrive or one of these weird Healey
> > things.
> >
> > Anyone else having this feature?
> >
> > Regards,
> > Bruno
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete@skynet.be>;
Date: Sun, 25 May 2003 18:49:00 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Trunk Liner/Interior Installation
I'm not sure about BN4s, but I've installed them in my
BN1 and BJ8. It's pretty straightforward - use a
contact adhesive (like 3M upholstry adhesive) and
stick all the pieces in place except for the piece
covering the gas tank... which should remain unfixed.
I don't recall if the BN4 has the trunk floor wood
piece... if so then you have to do the gas tank cover
piece differently than I described.
The general rule of thumb is to put in the small
pieces and pieces with no edge trim first, and then
finish with pieces that have edge trim... that will
cover overlap from the small pieces. "Dart" edges
that have to fit in tight corners to get a smooth
finish.
Depending on your kit, you may have to trim it a bit
here and there, but usually I've found the trunk kits
to fit pretty well...
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com> wrote:
> Hello,
>
> I very recently received my very nicely tailored
> trunk liner set and interior
> pieces for my '57 BN4 restoration project from
> Heritage, but there were no
> installation instructions provided. Do any of you
> happen to know of any
> helpful instructions that are readily available?
>
> Much thanks,
>
> Scott Helms
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete@skynet.be>;
Date: Sun, 25 May 2003 18:52:15 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Repair Panels vs. New Panel on rear quarter
If I recall correctly, it is only early BN1s that have
the fitting problems from the factory. By the BN2
they were mostly ironed out... so you can probably get
any good used BN2-BJ8 rear factory fender and it'll
probably fit right up.
The fitting problems are that some aftermarket rear
fenders don't fit that well...
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com> wrote:
> Both rear quarter panels on my '56 BN2 need repair
> around the front dog leg
> and the rear bowl areas. The right side has the
> added complication that it
> needs repairs above the swage line, above where the
> repair section normally
> goes. So that will require some special attention.
>
> On the other hand, I've heard some of the horror
> stories about trying to fit
> all new panels onto a Healey and that a lot of the
> original panels were hand
> picked at the factory and that the original panels
> are best to keep if you
> can.
>
> The question is do I purchase whole new panels for
> ~590 USD or go the repair
> route which is ~190USD just for the parts?
>
>
> Sincerely
>
> Rick Neves
> '56 BN-2
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From "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson at earthlink.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete@skynet.be>;
Date: Sun, 25 May 2003 19:33:32 -0700
Subject: RE: vinyl vs leather
> -----Original Message-----
>
> but the leather feels and smells sooo good.
> what ever you do get the Heritage interior. it is by far superior
> to everything
> else.
> Ron
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From DrBerkowitz at aol.com
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete@skynet.be>;
Date: Mon, 26 May 2003 00:45:50 EDT
Subject: 1950 Dodge
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From DrBerkowitz at aol.com
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete@skynet.be>;
Date: Mon, 26 May 2003 00:48:59 EDT
Subject: Electric fans
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From "Bob, Kim, Rob, Bandit and Pepper" <thewalkers at qwest.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete@skynet.be>;
Date: Sun, 25 May 2003 22:09:30 -0700
Subject: Hinge Pins and Washers
Can anyone advise where I can get new door hinge pins and washers for a
'59 BN-7. Is refurbishing the old ones a big deal? I assume one can
press out the old pins with an arbor press, and do the same to put in
the new pins and stake them in place. It looks like someone over the
past 24 years spent a good while leaning on the door while it was open,
so the bottom of the doors meet the C pillar with the correct clearance,
but the top of the doors hit the door fascia, and the top hinges look
bent outward. I am getting ready to cut out the rockers/sills/front
outrigger, and it will be easier to deal with if the outer panels are
aligned correctly before I do all this, I think.
Thanks in advance, and best regards,
Bob Walker
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From "Bob, Kim, Rob, Bandit and Pepper" <thewalkers at qwest.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete@skynet.be>;
Date: Sun, 25 May 2003 22:12:20 -0700
Subject: Hinge Pins and Washers
Can anyone advise where I can get new door hinge pins and washers for a
'59 BN-7. Is refurbishing the old ones a big deal? I assume one can
press out the old pins with an arbor press, and do the same to put in
the new pins and stake them in place. It looks like someone over the
past 24 years spent a good while leaning on the door while it was open,
so the bottom of the doors meet the C pillar with the correct clearance,
but the top of the doors hit the door fascia, and the top hinges look
bent outward. I am getting ready to cut out the rockers/sills/front
outrigger, and it will be easier to deal with if the outer panels are
aligned correctly before I do all this, I think.
Thanks in advance, and best regards,
Bob Walker
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From "Ross Maylor" <obiedog at telusplanet.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete@skynet.be>;
Date: Sun, 25 May 2003 23:41:02 -0600
Subject: 1950 Austin Atlantic A90 Convertible
Ross Maylor
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete@skynet.be>;
Date: Mon, 26 May 2003 16:43:51 +1000
Subject: RE: 1950 Austin Atlantic A90 Convertible
Let's just say that if I had an AH 100 I would jump at the opportunity to buy a
vehicle with the same engine (almost), same gearbox (almost), same suspension
(almost) and a squillion nuts and bolts that are exactly the same.
Also wouldn't mind an A90 Atlantic for its own sake too.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
-----Original Message-----
From: Ross Maylor [mailto:obiedog@telusplanet.net]
Sent: Monday, May 26, 2003 3:41 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: 1950 Austin Atlantic A90 Convertible
One of these cars is for sale locally and is very rough and ready for the
crusher. It has the 2.6 litre engine with 4 speed trany. Is this engine
similar to those used in early BN1s? Would any other parts be of value to
Healey owners.
Ross Maylor
**********************************************************************
This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain
privileged information or confidential information or both. If you
are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender.
**********************************************************************
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete@skynet.be>;
Date: Mon, 26 May 2003 00:17:53 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Harness routing question
__________________________________
The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo.
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From Chris Dimmock <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete@skynet.be>;
Date: Mon, 26 May 2003 19:01:42 +1000
Subject: Re: 1950 Austin Atlantic A90 Convertible
...and I'm sure Alan will make you an offer on the Gearbox!!
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: "Ross Maylor" <obiedog@telusplanet.net>; "Healey List"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 26, 2003 4:43 PM
Subject: RE: 1950 Austin Atlantic A90 Convertible
> G'day
>
> Let's just say that if I had an AH 100 I would jump at the opportunity to
buy a vehicle with the same engine (almost), same gearbox (almost), same
suspension (almost) and a squillion nuts and bolts that are exactly the
same.
>
> Also wouldn't mind an A90 Atlantic for its own sake too.
>
> Regards
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ross Maylor [mailto:obiedog@telusplanet.net]
> Sent: Monday, May 26, 2003 3:41 PM
> To: Healey List
> Subject: 1950 Austin Atlantic A90 Convertible
>
>
> One of these cars is for sale locally and is very rough and ready for the
> crusher. It has the 2.6 litre engine with 4 speed trany. Is this engine
> similar to those used in early BN1s? Would any other parts be of value to
> Healey owners.
>
> Ross Maylor
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete@skynet.be>;
Date: Mon, 26 May 2003 02:44:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Electric fans
This issue comes up regularly on this list. General
consensus is electric fans are a bad idea because the
pancake motors cover up too much of the radiator -
leading to the car actually running hotter when you've
installed one.
If you insist on installing one, best thing to do is
to mount it on the cross braces about 4-5 inches in
front of the radiator to allow sufficient airflow to
all of the core.
if your car runs hot, try this: replace the core with
a high efficiency core or a four row core, get a texas
cooler fan blade, and replace the thermostat with a
balanced sleeve thermostat from british car
specialists ... if they still have any left. Also
cleaning out your water jacket in the motor is a good
idea also... You do this and your car will run very
cool, trust me.
Regards,
Alan
--- DrBerkowitz@aol.com wrote:
> I have seen adds in Moss catalogues for electric
> fans for our beloved hot
> running Healeys. I have tried California fans and
> oil coolers to no avail. Has
> any one tried adding an electric fan. If so how did
> you install it and did it
> really help.
> Thanks
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete@skynet.be>;
Date: Mon, 26 May 2003 06:02:10 -0500
Subject: Re: Electric fans
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete@skynet.be>;
Date: Mon, 26 May 2003 06:45:36 -0500
Subject: TEXAS KOOLER website address correction
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete@skynet.be>;
Date: Mon, 26 May 2003 08:21:11 -0500
Subject: Re: Hinge Pins and Washers
Good Luck, Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob, Kim, Rob, Bandit and Pepper <thewalkers@qwest.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 26, 2003 12:12 AM
Subject: Hinge Pins and Washers
> All -
>
>
> Can anyone advise where I can get new door hinge pins and washers for a
> '59 BN-7. Is refurbishing the old ones a big deal? I assume one can
> press out the old pins with an arbor press, and do the same to put in
> the new pins and stake them in place. It looks like someone over the
> past 24 years spent a good while leaning on the door while it was open,
> so the bottom of the doors meet the C pillar with the correct clearance,
> but the top of the doors hit the door fascia, and the top hinges look
> bent outward. I am getting ready to cut out the rockers/sills/front
> outrigger, and it will be easier to deal with if the outer panels are
> aligned correctly before I do all this, I think.
>
> Thanks in advance, and best regards,
>
> Bob Walker
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From "Ron Davies, DDS" <rdavies1 at cox.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete@skynet.be>;
Date: Mon, 26 May 2003 07:21:03 -0700
Subject: bmc radio repair-conversion
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From NPaul72464 at aol.com
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete@skynet.be>;
Date: Mon, 26 May 2003 10:52:39 EDT
Subject: Re: Electric fans
Ned Paulsen
'60BN7
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete@skynet.be>;
Date: Mon, 26 May 2003 08:52:23 -0700
Subject: Re: Harness routing question
John Snyder
> I'm installing a wire harness on my '60 BT7 chassis
> rebuild and not sure the routing of the undercar
> segment as it travels up the engine compartment.
> Specifically, what's the route between the most fwd
> frame rail clip and the main harness connections near
> the fuseblock? Does a clip attach to a heatshield?
> Or is the metal tab (with a hole in it) in the corner
> of the firewall near the gas pedal linkage a grommet
> mounting location?
> Thanks for any help!
> Joe Mulqueen
> '60 BT7
> Torrance, CA
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From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete@skynet.be>;
Date: Mon, 26 May 2003 09:40:24 -0700
Subject: RE: Electric fans
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of NPaul72464@aol.com
Sent: Monday, May 26, 2003 7:53 AM
To: international_investor@yahoo.com; DrBerkowitz@aol.com;
healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Electric fans
...it will also run a lot cooler if you have the air deflectors installed.
Someone on the list mentioned this awhile back and I never even knew there
was
such a thing since I bought my car without them. I installed them and what
a
difference!
Ned Paulsen
'60BN7
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From "Bob, Kim, Rob, Bandit and Pepper" <thewalkers at qwest.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete@skynet.be>;
Date: Mon, 26 May 2003 10:02:07 -0700
Subject: test - delete
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete@skynet.be>;
Date: Mon, 26 May 2003 13:37:31 EDT
Subject: Re: Electric fans
IF you have installed a flex fan , oil coler, new style radiator, thermostat,
then possible your gauge is reading in error. This is very common for these
gauges to be off calibration. Install another thermostat in the neck of the
radiator and run the engine, when at operating temperatuure compare the gauge
on
the dash with the one in the radiator.
If you do still have a heating prioblem then it is time to find out why.
Because if all this stuff is done then it will not overheat.
We install a special radiator core and change the neck on the radiator on all
the radiators that we do in the shop, as well as a special thermostat that
makes all the coolant go thru the radiator when open. Usually with these
changes
most of the heating problems are gone.
There is a problem with installing a electric fan in front of the radiator as
well. The Healey radiator is just enough to cool the engine if everything is
perfect. If you install a fan in front of the radiator you will be blocking
off part of the radiator with the motor of the fan.
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete@skynet.be>;
Date: Mon, 26 May 2003 13:39:33 EDT
Subject: Re: Electric fans
IF you have installed a flex fan , oil coler, new style radiator, thermostat,
then possible your gauge is reading in error. This is very common for these
gauges to be off calibration. Install another thermostat in the neck of the
radiator and run the engine, when at operating temperatuure compare the gauge
on
the dash with the one in the radiator.
If you do still have a heating prioblem then it is time to find out why.
Because if all this stuff is done then it will not overheat.
We install a special radiator core and change the neck on the radiator on all
the radiators that we do in the shop, as well as a special thermostat that
makes all the coolant go thru the radiator when open. Usually with these
changes
most of the heating problems are gone.
There is a problem with installing a electric fan in front of the radiator as
well. The Healey radiator is just enough to cool the engine if everything is
perfect. If you install a fan in front of the radiator you will be blocking
off part of the radiator with the motor of the fan.
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete@skynet.be>;
Date: Mon, 26 May 2003 13:48:37 -0400
Subject: Tire thanks
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From Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete@skynet.be>;
Date: Mon, 26 May 2003 14:10:32 -0400
Subject: Tire again
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From "Ron Davies" <rdavies1 at cox.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete@skynet.be>;
Date: Mon, 26 May 2003 11:32:48 -0700
Subject: vinyl-leather
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete@skynet.be>;
Date: Mon, 26 May 2003 14:11:53 -0500
Subject: Re: Tire again
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From OldHealeys at aol.com
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete@skynet.be>;
Date: Mon, 26 May 2003 16:16:27 EDT
Subject: Re: 1950 Austin Atlantic A90 Convertible
Bill Emerson
Author, The Healey Book
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From "Ross Maylor" <obiedog at telusplanet.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete@skynet.be>;
Date: Mon, 26 May 2003 14:50:41 -0600
Subject: Further on 1950 Austin Atlantic A90 Convertible
Ross (just what I need is another project) Maylor
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete@skynet.be>;
Date: Mon, 26 May 2003 14:43:09 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: re. Re: Repair Panels vs. New Panel on rear quarter
Date: Sun, 25 May 2003 18:52:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: Blue One Hundred
<international_investor@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Repair Panels vs. New Panel on rear
quarter
Rick -
If I recall correctly, it is only early BN1s that have
the fitting problems from the factory. By the BN2
they were mostly ironed out... so you can probably get
any good used BN2-BJ8 rear factory fender and it'll
probably fit right up....
Alan
__________________________________
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete@skynet.be>;
Date: Mon, 26 May 2003 15:43:17 -0600
Subject: Re: Tire thanks
I have 175R-15 Michelin ZX tires on Dayton 4.5" 60 spoke wheels. The
mounted tires measure 4.625" tread width & 6.375" sidewall width. There
is no rubbing under any conditions. I run the dealer recommended 28 to
30 PSI on all four.
Dave Russell
Steven Tjepkema wrote:
> Thanks again for all your responses I think I an going the michelin
> way but I need to know how How wide is it. and will I have any
> rubbing in turns and what tire pressure. Thanks again Steven 58bn4
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete@skynet.be>;
Date: Mon, 26 May 2003 16:02:50 -0600
Subject: Re: Tire again
You are correct - Michelin doesn't make the tire anymore. I believe that
the 175 ZX is handled by Coker Tire Co. They licensed the rights to
manufacture from Michelin. In any event, I got the tires from Hendrix.
British Wire Wheel also has the ZX. See links;
http://www.hendrixwirewheel.com/
http://www.coker.com/
http://www.coker.com/default2.asp
http://www.britishwirewheel.com/tires.htm
Dave Russell
Steven Tjepkema wrote:
> Hi i check the Michelin web site and they don`t make these tire anymore.Steven
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete@skynet.be>;
Date: Mon, 26 May 2003 21:06:08 EDT
Subject: Re: Hinge Pins and Washers
"Shipping charges will apply if out side of the continental United States"
* * * * * * * * * *
Tech Talk by Norman Nock $30.00 + S H SOLD OVER 1500
A Collection on my tech. articles, that have been in various magazines along
with factory and Lucas bulletins about how things work. In easy to understand
writing. 221 pages Call me for more information at 209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete@skynet.be>;
Date: Mon, 26 May 2003 18:21:21 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: bmc radio repair-conversion
http://www.antiquecarradio.com/
Alan
--- "Ron Davies, DDS" <rdavies1@cox.net> wrote:
> I did an archive search for bmc, radio, repair,
> conversion without luck.
> I've heard that there are places that can take your
> non-working BMC radio
> (67 BJ8 pos gnd)
> keep the face but convert it to am/fm. Anyone on the
> list done this? Do I
> have to convert to neg gnd before I convert the
> radio? Rather not.
> Thanks in Advance.
> Ron
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete@skynet.be>;
Date: Mon, 26 May 2003 19:31:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: vinyl-leather
any BJ8 shipped to a US Healey Dealer would have had a
Vinyl interior. Maybe only in very rare instances did
a handful of cars have leather interiors special
ordered by owners from the factory.
In the rest of the world (i.e. UK), however, leather
interiors were very common for BJ8s, and usually it
was the front seats only.... and apparently only the
top sides of the front seats at that.
By the way, you should note that original leather
seats for the BJ8 do not have the square cutout
pattern and do not have the silver piping....
Regards,
Alan
--- Ron Davies <rdavies1@cox.net> wrote:
> Getting ready to do the uphostery on my 67 BJ8.
> The Heritage Certificate says it had Blue
> (Ambla)interior. I believe Ambla
> means Vinyl?
> I was wondering if it was ever proper to have
> leather front seats and vinyl
> back seats? Anyone done this?
> Thanks
> Ron
> Blue/Blue 67 BJ8
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From "Warren Dietz" <flyhihealey at hotmail.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete@skynet.be>;
Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 05:57:31 -0400
Subject: Right front end noise
I have a noise that seems to be coming from the right front wheel area? It's
audible only at highway speeds turning left and more pronounced with a
passenger and/or higher speeds(more load)?
Sraightaway and right turns no sound. Low speed no sound? Has the sound of
humming or grinding? Actually this has been evident for a long time.(years)
Maybe I'm just noticing it more because I'm preparing for the trip to
Conclave in D.C., or it has actually gotten worse?
Any ideas? Thanks.
Warren - 67 BJ8
_________________________________________________________________
Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*.
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete@skynet.be>;
Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 05:41:06 -0500
Subject: Re: Right front end noise
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete@skynet.be>;
Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 04:05:19 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Right front end noise
Don't make your middle name become "Danger."
Sounds like your right front end wheel bearings are
worn. Worn bearings can operate flawlessly for years
and then freeze up one strange day and your wheel will
go flying off $$$ - If you hear some humming or
grinding ... FIX IT!
You get more noise when making turns because the wheel
hub itself is shifting around on the loose and worn
bearings on the front spindle as you make the turn.
These bearings are very cheap and easy to replace (for
a british mechanic). Get it inspected, fixed and
packed. Don't just simply tighten the hub fixing
nut... if it's been like this for years you should
replace the bearings.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Warren Dietz <flyhihealey@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Listers;
>
> I have a noise that seems to be coming from the
> right front wheel area? It's
> audible only at highway speeds turning left and more
> pronounced with a
> passenger and/or higher speeds(more load)?
>
> Sraightaway and right turns no sound. Low speed no
> sound? Has the sound of
> humming or grinding? Actually this has been evident
> for a long time.(years)
> Maybe I'm just noticing it more because I'm
> preparing for the trip to
> Conclave in D.C., or it has actually gotten worse?
>
> Any ideas? Thanks.
>
> Warren - 67 BJ8
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete@skynet.be>;
Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 07:14:28 -0400
Subject: RE: Right front end noise
http://www.steelman-js.com/html/chassisear-engineearii_1.htm
If you remove and thoroughly clean the bearings you will probably be
able to see the imperfections(s) that are causing the noise.
A well lubricated wheel bearing can grumble away for years without
actually failing.
Hope that helps.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Warren Dietz
Sent: 27-May-03 5:58 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Right front end noise
Listers;
I have a noise that seems to be coming from the right front wheel area?
It's
audible only at highway speeds turning left and more pronounced with a
passenger and/or higher speeds(more load)?
Sraightaway and right turns no sound. Low speed no sound? Has the sound
of
humming or grinding? Actually this has been evident for a long
time.(years)
Maybe I'm just noticing it more because I'm preparing for the trip to
Conclave in D.C., or it has actually gotten worse?
Any ideas? Thanks.
Warren - 67 BJ8
_________________________________________________________________
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From LarryRPH at aol.com
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete@skynet.be>;
Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 07:36:09 EDT
Subject: Re: Right front end noise
<<
Sounds like your right front end wheel bearings are
worn. Worn bearings can operate flawlessly for years
and then freeze up one strange day and your wheel will
go flying off $$$ - If you hear some humming or
grinding ... FIX IT!
>>
Warren, I agree with Alan. This is a very dangerous situation! I had a wheel
leave the car because of a shot bearing. Fortunately, it was at a speed of
only 10-15 MPH and out of a turn on a rural road. I would not drive the car
another mile without repair!
Larry Wysocki
BN 6
BJ 7
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From "Dick Gaier" <dgaier at romarindserv.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete@skynet.be>;
Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 08:24:17 -0400
Subject: speaker
Dick 66BJ8
Dick Gaier
Romar Industrial Services
P.O. Box 111494
Pittsburgh, PA 15238
Phone: 724-226-1600
Fax: 724-226-9170
E-mail: dgaier@romarindserv.com
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete@skynet.be>;
Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 10:43:26 -0700
Subject: RE: Right front end noise
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete@skynet.be>;
Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 12:15:08 -0600
Subject: Re: Michelin 175 R15
OK, I'll go along with this.
Dave Russell
Jaap Aeckerlin wrote:
> In my humble opinion Michelin still manufactures 175 R15 ZX tires. I just
> bought five with "made in the United Kingdom" on their side wall. The change
> is that Michelin do not want to get involved in the direct sales any more,
> so they are using a kind of dealers now to sell their "classics". In The
> Netherlands, for example, you now have to go to a company named'" Oldtimer
> B.V." to place your order whereas in the past Michelin itself used to accept
> any order for "old" tires. They still do special "classic" manufacturing
> runs once in a while.
>
> Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
> 1964 BJ8 29432
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete@skynet.be>;
Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 14:42:40 -0500
Subject: Re: speaker
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From "IRA ERBS" <IErbs at vansd.org>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete@skynet.be>;
Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 13:26:42 -0700
Subject: RE: Right front end noise
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From "Warren Dietz" <flyhihealey at hotmail.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete@skynet.be>;
Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 20:54:27 -0400
Subject: Re: Right front end noise
Thanks all.
I GET THE MESSAGE! Just scared the grease right out of my grease cup!
Checked with a local NAPA auto parts and was told that they have a match
for the Timken bearing numbers for about $7 ea.(not Timken bearings). Is it
best to stick with the Timken? Should I replace the oil seal? Any other
suggestions,as always,is greatly appreciated.
I've already pulled the hub but will not have time to take apart and clean
up till tomorrow. I did extract a post from the archives by Roger Moment
that seems to be quite informative on this subject.
Will keep looking for the route to Conclave with all right hand turns just
as a back up plan.
Warren 67-BJ8
_________________________________________________________________
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From <bate1025 at bellsouth.net>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 21:24:05 -0400
Subject: slipping clutch
I have a 100-6 where the clutch with 8k miles on it is slipping when hot.
Could this indicate oil is in the housing? If so, what should be done to
prevent oil leakage in the future? Can repair be done without going into the
engine? Can it be anything else?
BTW, I usually start off on level or downhill in 2nd, as I heard it saves the
syncro.
John Bates
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 21:30:24 EDT
Subject: Re: Fw: slipping clutch
<< Could this indicate oil is in the housing? If so, what should be done to
prevent oil leakage in the future? Can repair be done without going into the
engine? Can it be anything else?
BTW, I usually start off on level or downhill in 2nd, as I heard it saves the
syncro.
John Bates >>
Could be oil on the clutch.
Rear main oil seal conversion can be done with engine in car. (factory has no
oil seal on rair main)
Could be worn clutch from starting in second. There is no synchro, or
anything else that is saved by not using first gear to start.
Well, theoretically you could reduce the number of clutch actuations by not
using as many gears. but if the initial clutch use has more slipping due to
using the taller 2nd gear ration to get the car moving...
Many use 2nd gear 'cause 1st is just a stump puller...
it's probably oil. you get a tell tale stain on your garage floor?
Rick
San Diego
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From MBran89793 at aol.com
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 22:24:13 EDT
Subject: Re: Right front end noise
> Is it
> best to stick with the Timken? Should I replace the oil seal? Any other
> suggestions,as always,is greatly appreciated.
>
Hi Warren-
My personal preference is Timken bearings.
Replace the oil seals too.
Why not do both sides and have real peace of mind.
There is a Timken web site <www.directindustry.com> that should be able to
help you locate a dealer near you.
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
BJ8-"Blackie"
BT7 (2)
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 21:45:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Right front end noise
The bearing is pretty common and whatever Napa sells
should be fine. You definitnely want to replace the
oil seal so be sure to get that from a healey
supplier. You'll also want someone to pack the
bearing for you, maybe Napa will do this as a free
service?
The key thing you have to do when replacing the
bearing is make sure you have about 5 bearing shims
handy (there should be some shims in there already!)
so that when you are bolting the thing back together,
you get the applied force on the bearing correct. You
will iterate the number of shims to use until you can
get the cotter pin hole to line up with the castle nut
at around 15-20 ft-lbs of torque (check the manual for
the procedure).
Good Luck!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Warren Dietz <flyhihealey@hotmail.com> wrote:
> " Fix it immediately!!!! >Very dangerous"
>
> Thanks all.
>
> I GET THE MESSAGE! Just scared the grease right
> out of my grease cup!
>
> Checked with a local NAPA auto parts and was told
> that they have a match
> for the Timken bearing numbers for about $7 ea.(not
> Timken bearings). Is it
> best to stick with the Timken? Should I replace the
> oil seal? Any other
> suggestions,as always,is greatly appreciated.
>
> I've already pulled the hub but will not have time
> to take apart and clean
> up till tomorrow. I did extract a post from the
> archives by Roger Moment
> that seems to be quite informative on this subject.
>
> Will keep looking for the route to Conclave with all
> right hand turns just
> as a back up plan.
>
> Warren 67-BJ8
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 00:47:05 EDT
Subject: Re: Right front end noise
* * * * * * * * * *
Tech Talk by Norman Nock $30.00 + S H sold over 1500
A Collection on my tech. articles, that have been in various magazines along
with factory and Lucas bulletins about how things work. In easy to understand
writing. 221 pages Call me for more information at 209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
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From Alex Hope <AHope at jaques.com.au>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 15:52:31 +1000
Subject: BN1 transmission
Is it normal for early BN1 gearboxes to have the extra bolt hole in the bell
housing flange near the starter motor like this one ?
Did the starter motor have the third mounting bolt ?
Alex Hope
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From "Warren Dietz" <flyhihealey at hotmail.com>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 06:15:39 -0400
Subject: Re: Right front end noise
Can these be duplicated by a local auto parts??
Warren
67-BJ8
_________________________________________________________________
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From LarryRPH at aol.com
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 07:18:37 EDT
Subject: Re: Right front end noise
<< Checked with a local NAPA auto parts and was told that they have a match
for the Timken bearing numbers for about $7 ea.(not Timken bearings). Is it
best to stick with the Timken? Should I replace the oil seal? Any other
suggestions,as always,is greatly appreciated.
>>
I would stay with Timken. I would replace the oil seal and of course the
race.Do a complete job and you shouldn't have to go back there for another 40
years!.
One other point, do not overtighten the hub nut and use do use the shims as
necessary to to get a smooth fit!
Happy Healeying
Larry Wysocki
BN 6
BJ 7
Ps. How is the other front wheel?
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 06:22:02 -0500
Subject: Re: Right front end noise
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From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 07:35:25 EDT
Subject: Re: Right front end noise
> You'll also want someone to pack the
> bearing for you, maybe Napa will do this as a free
> service?
>
I don't understand this statement? Anyone can pack a bearing themselves,
and it is something you should learn to do. If you don't want to get greasy,
or don't own grease, then take it somewhere and have the job done and keep a
mechanic employeed!
What is the list coming to?
John, Oostburg, WI
Home of:
'60 AH 3000
'60 Austin Mini
2003 Mini Cooper S
'69 Austin America
'80 Triumph TR8 Coupe
'80 Triumph TR7 DHC
'57 BMW Isetta
'39 Dodge Coupe
'86 Jaguar XJ6
(more always welcome!)
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 07:38:05 -0400
Subject: RE: slipping clutch
A leaking front seal on the gearbox (a scroll seal on your car I
believe) is a very likely cause of clutch slip. Oil from the front of
the gearbox will run right along the shaft and onto the clutch disc.
For the engine rear seal to leak into the clutch the oil has to make its
way past the flywheel so the rate of leakage has to be fairly
substantial to have much effect.
The reason for starting in second gear is to save the countershaft
(layshaft) 1st gear. These are prone to excessive wear because the gear
has only 13 teeth.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of bate1025@bellsouth.net
Sent: 27-May-03 9:24 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Fw: slipping clutch
----- Original Message -----
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2003 9:22 PM
Subject: slipping clutch
I have a 100-6 where the clutch with 8k miles on it is slipping when
hot.
Could this indicate oil is in the housing? If so, what should be done
to
prevent oil leakage in the future? Can repair be done without going
into the
engine? Can it be anything else?
BTW, I usually start off on level or downhill in 2nd, as I heard it
saves the
syncro.
John Bates
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "ROBERT HAY" <jerryhay at msn.com>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 08:54:49 -0400
Subject: In line fuse
Jerry
BT7
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 09:21:54 -0400
Subject: Re: slipping clutch
Jim
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From "James Shope" <healeymanjim at JoiMail.com>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 07:44:48 -0700
Subject: bj8 registry
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From N0040 at aol.com
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 11:48:44 EDT
Subject: Re: bj8 registry
Hi Steve,
Regards,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 12:03:22 -0400
Subject: BT7 registry?
I have called him twice since I sent him the details for my BT7, and he says
"he's getting around to it," but nothing further happens. One year has
passed, with no apparent movement.
Might there be someone else who could handle this BN7-BT7-I registry?
Apparently Mister Naretta has other things to attend to, which is
understandable.
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
Amateur Radio AI2Q
http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
.-.-.
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From "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino at ripnet.com>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 12:32:48 -0400
Subject: valve lash noise
Carl
BN-4(L)
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 12:37:42 EDT
Subject: Re: BT7 registry?
<< but nothing further happens. >>
What did you want to happen?
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From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 12:58:20 EDT
Subject: 100/Six Registry (BN4 & BN6)
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 11:14:03 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Bushing Reamer 4Sale
When I installed new bushings on my chassis, the
shackle pins simply would not go in. The nominal dia
is 9/16" dia but you need a bit more for running
clearance. Anyway, I thought of using a 9/16" drill
and just "hogging" out the hole, but wanted something
more precise (and not shaped like an hourglass).
Also, a 9/16" drill bit won't fit a 3/8 drill motor.
Anyway, I used the reamer for my car and I don't think
I'll need it again anytime soon. It's adjustable from
17/32" to 19/32". I bought it for $27 at a tool
supply shop. Anyone want it for $20 plus mail let me
know. Comes in small box with reciept.
Regards,
Joe Mulqueen
'60 BT7
Torrance, CA
__________________________________
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From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 11:54:34 -0700
Subject: Air Filters
Last week's discussion of air filters got me wondering, do most of you
Healey owners who drive your cars regularly use aftermarket filters? I
serviced my stock air filters this weekend and it looks as though they
wouldn't keep out small pets! Some listers recommended the longflow filters
sold by VB. Is this a good choice for my BN7 (HD6 carbs)? Any other
recommendations for this application?
Thanks,
John
_________________________________________________________________
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From "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 20:54:57 +0200
Subject: Re: Right front end noise
Are you sure about the torque figures? My manual states 'between 40 and 70
ftlbs'
Also don't see why Timken should be the only acceptable bearing make. I just
purchased SKF bearings for my front wheels. There are hardly any bad bearing
manufacturers nowadays.
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
1964 BJ8 29432
----- Original Message -----
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Warren Dietz" <flyhihealey@hotmail.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2003 6:45 AM
Subject: Re: Right front end noise
.. You will iterate the number of shims to use until you can
> get the cotter pin hole to line up with the castle nut
> at around 15-20 ft-lbs of torque (check the manual for
> the procedure).
>
> Good Luck!
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
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From Richard Gordon <HealeyHundred at comcast.net>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 13:03:26 -0600
Subject: Not Healey, but, Mini...
Richard
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From Richard Gordon <HealeyHundred at comcast.net>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 13:07:20 -0600
Subject: Re: Air Filters
Richard
On Wednesday, May 28, 2003, at 12:54 PM, John Peak wrote:
> Last week's discussion of air filters got me wondering, do most of you
> Healey owners who drive your cars regularly use aftermarket filters?
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From Bill Rister <brister at houston.rr.com>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 14:59:13 -0700
Subject: Re: Air Filters
John Peak wrote:
>List,
>
>Last week's discussion of air filters got me wondering, do most of you
>Healey owners who drive your cars regularly use aftermarket filters? I
>serviced my stock air filters this weekend and it looks as though they
>wouldn't keep out small pets! Some listers recommended the longflow filters
>sold by VB. Is this a good choice for my BN7 (HD6 carbs)? Any other
>recommendations for this application?
>
>Thanks,
>John
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 16:21:32 -0400
Subject: RE: BT7 registry?
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
Amateur Radio AI2Q
http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
.-.-.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of WilKo@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2003 12:38 PM
To: alexmm@adelphia.net; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: BT7 registry?
In a message dated 5/28/03 9:08:26 AM, alexmm@adelphia.net writes:
<< but nothing further happens. >>
What did you want to happen?
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From Larry Hewlett <hewlettlj at shaw.ca>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 14:19:20 -0700
Subject: Re: Air Filters
Regards
Larry Hewlett
BJ7
Peachland
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 17:59:45 -0400
Subject: Registries; was: Re: 100/Six Registry (BN4 & BN6)
Yes, the registries (and the keepers of them) are a strange breed. If you
have an interest in the statistics of the cars -- their original production,
or how they are configured and distributed around the world today --- or in
learning something about the history of your own car, then the registries can
be a very valuable resource, indeed (just ask the BJ8 owner in Germany who
recently received a complete ownership history of his car back through 7
owners in the USA to the original). That is, provided the keepers of them are
interested in using the data for the benefit of enthusiasts, and aggressive
enough to collect enough data to matter. That all depends on the personal
attitude of the registrar, and how interested he is in having the registry be
more than just a collection of useless information, accessible to no one but
the keeper of the data. For those who do not have such interests, keeping a
registry probably seems like a very peculiar and unproductive way to enjoy the
hobby, but I can tell them otherwise.
It's pretty obvious that the actual or potential value of a registry is
directly proportional to the number of cars it contains, and in the specific
details of each that are captured. The BJ8 Registry now has a record of
4,534 individual BJ8s worldwide, which is only 71 cars short of a full 26% of
total original production, and still growing at the rate of about 20 cars per
month. That is getting into the statistically significant range.
I know there are some BJ8 owners on the list whose cars are not included in
the registry. If you are not convinced of the value to the hobby of
collecting data on them all in one location, then please give me the
oppportunity to convince you. Anyone who cares to can go to this website to
see what is requested, and can input the data directly online if they choose.
http://www.britishcarforum.com/bj8quest.html
(There is also an on-line form for BJ7 owners at
http://www.britishcarforum.com/bj7quest.html)
If any of the other registrars who are on this list wish to have an on-line
form created for them, just contact Basil of the British Car Forum. You can
get his address at the forum home page, http://www.britishcarforum.com
There is no other resource available to Healey owners that can provide a link
between former and later owners of the cars, especially those separated by
many years, than the registries. They deserve the support of all enthusiasts
of the marque.
Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: CAWS52803@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2003 12:58 PM
Subject: 100/Six Registry (BN4 & BN6)
The Registries are a strange breed. There isn't much activity and interest
unless you have that specific Healey model. The world wouldn't be much
different if we didn't have them, but I guess, is better off that we do!
My only Registry activity of value is when someone is researching a
Hundred/Six that they owned previously and are curious to know its
whereabouts. Even
then, I don't disclose the information without the current owner's
permission.
Rudy Streng
Lenoir, NC
100/Six Registrar
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From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 18:31:36 -0400
Subject: RE: valve lash noise
I lived with it for about about 24k miles until I had the engine
rebuilt. My machinist, in fact, confirmed that I had a worn camshaft.
HTH,
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Dr. Carl Rubino
Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2003 12:33 PM
To: healeys
Subject: valve lash noise
Last fall before I put the car away I had thought the noise from the valves
was excessive but decided to wait till spring to set the clearances. Have
done
so two different ways (TDC and 13 formula). Clearances were good both ways.
Still the valve noise seems excessive. Now I know I get very paranoid (self
diagnosed) when I hear or think I hear strange or excessive noise in
relationshp to the car. What else could result in noisy valves or should I
just forget about it and plug my ears?
Carl
BN-4(L)
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 15:57:02 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Right front end noise
--- Jaap Aeckerlin <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl> wrote:
> Alan,
>
> Are you sure about the torque figures? My manual
> states 'between 40 and 70
> ftlbs'
>
> Also don't see why Timken should be the only
> acceptable bearing make. I just
> purchased SKF bearings for my front wheels. There
> are hardly any bad bearing
> manufacturers nowadays.
> Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
> 1964 BJ8 29432
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Blue One Hundred"
> <international_investor@yahoo.com>
> To: "Warren Dietz" <flyhihealey@hotmail.com>;
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2003 6:45 AM
> Subject: Re: Right front end noise
>
>
> .. You will iterate the number of shims to use
> until you can
> > get the cotter pin hole to line up with the castle
> nut
> > at around 15-20 ft-lbs of torque (check the manual
> for
> > the procedure).
> >
> > Good Luck!
> >
> > Alan
> >
> > '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 16:00:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: re. Re: Tire again
Date: Mon, 26 May 2003 16:02:50 -0600
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
Subject: Re: Tire again
Steve,
You are correct - Michelin doesn't make the tire
anymore. I believe that the 175 ZX is handled by Coker
Tire Co. They licensed the rights to.......
__________________________________
Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
http://calendar.yahoo.com
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 19:36:06 EDT
Subject: Re: re. Re: Tire again
Dick Hosmer
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 17:59:41 -0600
Subject: Re: Registries; was: Re: 100/Six Registry (BN4 & BN6)
OK convince me. What information do you have published or can send out?
Number of each type, year, color , trim, geographic location, etc. The
most common excuse seems to be that it is a privacy/security issue &
things must be kept secret. If so -- the registry is of very little use
to me.
I sent info on my car to several different registries & never even got
acknowledgement that anything was received. Certainly no offers to
provide past history on my car. Forgive me if I have this all wrong.
Dave Russell
BN2
BJ8Healeys wrote:
> Yes, the registries (and the keepers of them) are a strange breed. If you
> have an interest in the statistics of the cars -- their original production,
> or how they are configured and distributed around the world today --- then
> please give me the oppportunity to convince you.
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC USA
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 17:01:59 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: re. Re: Tire again
__________________________________
Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
http://calendar.yahoo.com
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 20:10:45 EDT
Subject: Re: re. Re: Tire again
> I'm REALLY sorry to hear that about Coker, having just sprung for five
> 175-15
> ZXs (which SEEM to be OK). Anyone else have information/experience as to
> their tire quality
I'm currently running two sets of them, one on my car and the other on my
wife's BN7. They seem fine to me--had them shaved and balanced by Hendrix Wire
Wheel.
Best--Michael Oritt
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From Chris Dimmock <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 10:53:40 +1000
Subject: Re: Air Filters
I use Unifilters - the 'pod' or 'sock' type with no base on the ram tubes on
my triple webers. They also make foam covers for standard air cleaners. I
have used their products on various sprites, 100s and 3000 - webers and SUs
over the past 18 years. Their website gives you a good listing of what they
have & prices.
http://www.unifilter.com
If you talk to them about your requirement, you'll find that there are red
foam filters, green foam, and dual foam. Red is coarser - Green is finer
(filters to a smaller number of microns) , and dual foam (red on the
outside, green on the inside) is serious off road/ speedway stuff. No
commercial interest - their Australian operation has always been very
helpful, their employees are members of various clubs, they are very
knowledgeable & genuinely want to understand & help.
Hope this helps
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Gordon" <HealeyHundred@comcast.net>
To: "John Peak" <johnepeak@hotmail.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 29, 2003 5:07 AM
Subject: Re: Air Filters
> I have been using the stock filters since 1989. About 3 years ago I
> found a motorcycle filter that is foam bubber and fits neatly over the
> original air filters. They can even be coated with oil and do a very
> good job of filtering out all the little stuff. They are easy to
> remove for car shows and for cleaning. Any thoughts...good or bad?
>
> Richard
>
>
> On Wednesday, May 28, 2003, at 12:54 PM, John Peak wrote:
>
> > Last week's discussion of air filters got me wondering, do most of you
> > Healey owners who drive your cars regularly use aftermarket filters?
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From "Rick" <WebmasterRick at attbi.com>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 20:15:31 -0500
Subject: Re: Registries; was: Re: 100/Six Registry (BN4 & BN6)
" <<That all depends on the personal
attitude of the registrar, and how interested he is in... >>
Huummm, Steve, THAT line says it ALL in regards to "The Registrar" of BT-7s.
He is way to important to "take care of business" because he is too busy
building "fake" cars and "tending" to "business" as Vice
President/Competition/Safety for AHCA!!
Ed
'63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey) & (Listed in BJ-7 Registery<G>)
Founding Member & Delegate, ILLINI Chapter-AHCA (24+ years)
Member, AHCUSA
Ed Kaler, Proprietor
" Just Brits "
Please visit my web site at:
www.justbrits.com
"
Regards...........
Rick
'73 Midget (no name yet)
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 21:12:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Registries; was: Re: 100/Six Registry (BN4 & BN6)
Well, personal data can be a "damned if you do, and damned if you don't" sort
of thing in relation to the registries. Some people will absolutely not
provide any information to a registry if there is a chance that their personal
data (name, address, telephone, e-mail) can be published for the world to see,
or made available to third parties without their knowledge or permission.
For some reason, there are even some owners who do not want anyone else to
know the VIN of their car. Consequently, the policy of the AHCA (and, I
think, of the AHCUSA) is that such data (i.e., the personal stuff) will not
be shared with anyone without prior permission from the person involved.
That's understandable, doncha think? The UK even has laws that prevent
release of personal data, and that puts a crimp in cooperation between
registries that would allow one integrated database.
However, there are others who say that if they can't get such information from
a registry, then what good is it, and consequently THEY don't want to
participate. The key to making this work, in my opinion and experience, is
having someone who is willing to be the "middle man" to collect and protect
the data, yet do the legwork to make the data useful to those who have a need
for it.
I do not believe that the majority of BJ8 owners would object to a former or a
later owner of the same car knowing their address/phone/e-mail so that they
could get in touch with them about the car, unless perhaps they were aware of
something illegal. The prohibition on releasing personal data without first
getting permission can be a real time-consuming headache. What if a current
owner is interested in the history of his car, and the registry has a record
of six previous owners? Wouldn't the registrar have to write to all six and
get their concurrence before releasing the information? You can see the
problem here. But, again, what good is a registry if not to serve as a
"clearinghouse" in cases like this? I am willing to spend the time necessary
to make the BJ8 registry of value to BJ8 owners, but not all current
registrars are so inclined to go that far.
I have frequently gleaned statistics about the cars from the BJ8 registry
database and published them on this list for all who were interested. I will
respond to any specific questions that are put to me about a specific VIN, or
concerning general statistics. Everything in the database is generally
available to anybody, except for personal data relative to owners. For that,
I deal with it one on one.
Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
From: Dave & Marlene
To: BJ8Healeys
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2003 7:59 PM
Subject: Re: Registries; was: Re: 100/Six Registry (BN4 & BN6)
Steve,
OK convince me. What information do you have published or can send out?
Number of each type, year, color , trim, geographic location, etc. The
most common excuse seems to be that it is a privacy/security issue &
things must be kept secret. If so -- the registry is of very little use
to me.
I sent info on my car to several different registries & never even got
acknowledgement that anything was received. Certainly no offers to
provide past history on my car. Forgive me if I have this all wrong.
Dave Russell
BN2
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 18:24:34 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: valve lash noise
What type of noise is it? Squeeking or clacking?
Squeeking is a very common problem with 6-cylinders
because some parts of the very long rocker shaft can
get a little light with lubrication over time... it's
not a very serious problem usually, and will go away
with use.
Clacking can be indicative of a worn cam, lifters or
guides...
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com> wrote:
> Last fall before I put the car away I had thought
> the noise from the valves
> was excessive but decided to wait till spring to set
> the clearances. Have done
> so two different ways (TDC and 13 formula).
> Clearances were good both ways.
> Still the valve noise seems excessive. Now I know I
> get very paranoid (self
> diagnosed) when I hear or think I hear strange or
> excessive noise in
> relationshp to the car. What else could result in
> noisy valves or should I
> just forget about it and plug my ears?
>
> Carl
> BN-4(L)
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 21:40:13 EDT
Subject: Re: Registries; was: Re: 100/Six Registry (BN4 & BN6)
> what good is a registry if not to serve as a
> "clearinghouse" in cases like this? I am willing to spend the time
> necessary
> to make the BJ8 registry of value to BJ8 owners, but not all current
> registrars are so inclined to go that far.
>
I applaud Steve's effort and only wish that the same thing existed for our
100's. Look at all the "Factory M's" that come on ebay and in the national
mags. A prospective buyer has no way of knowing whether the car is authentic
short of seeing a Heritage Certificate, or ordering one from the BMIHT by which
time the car willhave probably been sold--and inasmuch as some of the real car
numbers were allegedly "stolen" by unscrupulous restorers to misrepresent the
bona fides of some "manufactured" M's even that is proof of nothing. OTOH, if
a database existed the value of the real M cars would increase and probably so
too would that of "stock" 100's in their own right. As it is, the M/LeMans
registry information is only available by purchasing a membership from the
keeper, and still there is no guarantee of authenticity.
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 22:57:58 -0400
Subject: Re: Registries; was: Re: 100/Six Registry (BN4 & BN6)
I hadn't heard about that. There is already a Federal Driver's Privacy
Protection Act that the various state Departments of Motor Vehicles abide by.
Different states are interpreting this act in different ways, but one effect
is to prevent the DMVs who so choose to interpret it that way from releasing
ANY personal information available in vehicle registration records to anybody.
It's hard to imagine that a current legitimate owner of a vehicle could be
prevented from learning anything about the prior history of his property from
state records because of this act, but it happens.
Some states, like North Carolina, Florida, and Tennessee allow exceptions for
certain legitimate reasons, as long as the data isn't published or "used to
contact persons involved". Others, like Oregon, South Dakota, and
Louisiana say they don't release no personal data to nobody, nohow. Without
the personal information, the records are useless for tracing history (or for
practically anything an owner would care about).
Even some states where records might otherwise be available are not much help,
because they keep registration records for such a short period of time before
they are destroyed (California, 4 years; Virginia, 10 years, Georgia, 2
years). North Carolina has registration records back to 1964 and will
provide a copy of their complete file on a car (copies of titles, liens,
annual registrations, etc.) for only 5 bucks. Tennessee records go back 50
years!
I encourage any owner of a car who is remotely interested in the history of
his car to get it while it's available (or for no other reason than the
altruistic one that a later owner might like to know). Most owners are
interested in the history of their cars, and so much of that history has
already been irrevocably lost that it's important to save as much as possible
(and when you find out about your BJ8, send the information to me for
preservation for posterity).
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: Gary R. Cox
To: BJ8Healeys
Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2003 10:37 PM
Subject: RE: Registries; was: Re: 100/Six Registry (BN4 & BN6)
Hi Steve...
Everyone today is extremely sensitive to personal data being made available
without their permission. I guess rightfully so.
The Federal Gramm-Leach-Bliley Act just had major changes, which just went
into effect last Friday. I'm not sure if you are or the BJ8 registry is
affected by the act...
But most business that collect & store personal, non-public data are
dealing/reeling/scurrying with how to implement the new revisions to the
law.
Gary R. Cox
Bradenton, FL
'67 BJ8 (readying for Conclave 2003)
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 22:49:52 -0600
Subject: Re: re. Re: Tire again
I got Michelin 175 ZX tires mounted, trued, & balanced & on Dayton
wheels from Hendrix W W. As far as I know, the tires came from Coker. I
don't know where Coker got them. They are the straightest & best
balanced of any tires that I have had on any car.
Dave Russell
BN2
joe mulqueen wrote:
> ....just beware that licensing the mfg doesn't mean
> quality is always the same. I've bought reproduction
> tires from them in my past (MGA and '60 vette) and
> they had excess runout both in dia and side to side
> (and it wasn't the rims). The replacements they sent
> me weren't any better. The end result was nice
> "parade" tires but not very good at highway speeds.
> Regards,
> Joe Mulqueen
> '60 BT7 ongoing project
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From "Paul Negus" <Paul.Negus at iplbath.com>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 09:43:19 +0100
Subject: Re: re. Re: Tire again
The Avon Tyre company in Melksham, England, was bought a few years ago by
Cooper Tires. Avon specialise in small production runs, so you see a lot of
Avon tyres on low volume cars such as Rolls Royces and Aston Martins in the UK.
I had a chance to tour the factory a couple of years ago and they were
producing tyres for all of the big name manufacturers, (as well as some very
mean looking racing tyres for single seaters, saloons and superbikes).
It's possible therefore that these Michelins came from the Melksham factory,
made for Michelin by Avon.
(Is this a form of "badge engineering"?!)
Regards
Paul
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 12:15:08 -0600
>From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
>Subject: Re: Michelin 175 R15
>
>Jack,
>
>OK, I'll go along with this.
>
>Dave Russell
>Jaap Aeckerlin wrote:
> In my humble opinion Michelin still manufactures 175 R15 ZX tires. I just
> bought five with "made in the United Kingdom" on their side wall. The change
> is that Michelin do not want to get involved in the direct sales any more,
> so they are using a kind of dealers now to sell their "classics". In The
> Netherlands, for example, you now have to go to a company named'" Oldtimer
> B.V." to place your order whereas in the past Michelin itself used to accept
> any order for "old" tires. They still do special "classic" manufacturing
> runs once in a while.
>
> Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
> 1964 BJ8 29432
------------------------------
>Date: Mon, 26 May 2003 16:02:50 -0600
>From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
>Subject: Re: Tire again
>
>Steve,
>
>You are correct - Michelin doesn't make the tire anymore. I believe that
> the 175 ZX is handled by Coker Tire Co. They licensed the rights to
>manufacture from Michelin. In any event, I got the tires from Hendrix.
>British Wire Wheel also has the ZX. <snip>
>Dave Russell
>Steven Tjepkema wrote:
> Hi i check the Michelin web site and they don`t make these tire anymore.Steven
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From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 09:30:04 -0400
Subject: Re: RE: slipping clutch
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 10:15:12 -0400
Subject: RE: Registries; was: Re: 100/Six Registry (BN4 & BN6)
Vy 73, AI2Q, Alex in Kennebunk, Maine QRP-L #687
http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
.-.-.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Dave & Marlene
Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2003 8:00 PM
To: BJ8Healeys
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Registries; was: Re: 100/Six Registry (BN4 & BN6)
Steve,
OK convince me. What information do you have published or can send out?
Number of each type, year, color , trim, geographic location, etc. The
most common excuse seems to be that it is a privacy/security issue &
things must be kept secret. If so -- the registry is of very little use
to me.
I sent info on my car to several different registries & never even got
acknowledgement that anything was received. Certainly no offers to
provide past history on my car. Forgive me if I have this all wrong.
Dave Russell
BN2
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 09:08:30 -0700
Subject: suggested LA excursion
They're in the burned-over areas from the recent brush fires, and must
represent a confluence of the fires and just the right amount of rain. I
think we'll seldom, if ever, see such a display again.
I understand they're even better in the Grapevine area.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
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From Richard Gordon <HealeyHundred at comcast.net>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 13:20:56 -0600
Subject: Re: Air Filters
The brand of foam air filters that I have been using is "TwinAir"
Found a website that you can check out for yourself:
http://www.dual-star.com/index2/Brand/KTM/lc4_twinair.htm They slip
right over the factory air filters. Looks like the company has cleaner
and oiler also.
What do you think?
Richard
On Wednesday, May 28, 2003, at 03:19 PM, Larry Hewlett wrote:
> Richard
> Do you have any brand name of the filter or motorcycle (make and
> model) it came from?? Sounds like it be a lot more convenient and
> faster than changing filter units.
>
> Regards
> Larry Hewlett
> BJ7
> Peachland
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 16:07:17 -0400
Subject: Healey sighting
We are back from the Beaulieu auto jumble and it was well worth the trip.
Even though it rained all day that did not slow down the attendance. There
where some very good buys in the sale section and I came very close to
getting a pristine 1932 Austin Seven for 3500 BP. A guy was talking to the
seller when I walked up so I waited around for half an hour for him to
leave. Finally he got out his checkbook and the sale was made. I came back
ten minutes later and he had driven it away. I did get some good pictures
though. If, by chance, any of you know of a good post thirty Austin Seven
for sale please let me know. We had such a good time we plan to go back in
Sept for the big show. Cheers, JL
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7III
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From JAnde63063 at aol.com
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 16:45:56 EDT
Subject: Re: Air Filters
I use the filters from VB on my BN4 with 29K engine and HD8's. Stock filters
are a joke. When we upgrade a customers Healey in our Shop we use this filter.
Jerry Anderson
Hendrix Wire Wheel
Greensboro, NC
BN4
JH-5
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From alan at andysnet.net
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 17:19:37 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: RE: Registries; was: Re: 100/Six Registry (BN4 & BN6)
I then took a scraper to the upper right hand shock tower and located what
I thought were the last 4 digits (#3429) but couldn't find the fifth
digit. I figured it had to be the first digit that was missing and that it
would be a 2,3 or 4. I again sent off to Heritage Trust and received
another certificate. Wrong again, the certificate said the car had solid
wheels and wrong color. Steve suggested I find the rear axle number or
gearbox number and he would narrow the search down to within a range. That
I did and the number 3429 just did not fit the sequence. Back to the shock
tower which I scaped clean. Voila!! The missing digit was at the end of
3429 and not at the front.
Did all of this make a difference. I have a real peace of mind knowing
that the Wisconsin DMV title has the correct VIN number and the cars
ownership is clearly defined as me.
I want to sincerely thank Steve for all the help he gave me in solving the
VIN puzzle. Thanks you Steve.
Alan Schultz HBJ8L/34297
> From my point of view, you've hit the proverbial nail on the head Dave!
>
> Vy 73, AI2Q, Alex in Kennebunk, Maine QRP-L #687
> http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
>
> .-.-.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Dave & Marlene
> Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2003 8:00 PM
> To: BJ8Healeys
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Registries; was: Re: 100/Six Registry (BN4 & BN6)
>
>
> Steve,
>
> OK convince me. What information do you have published or can send out?
> Number of each type, year, color , trim, geographic location, etc. The
> most common excuse seems to be that it is a privacy/security issue &
> things must be kept secret. If so -- the registry is of very little use
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 19:54:31 -0400
Subject: Re: Registries; was: Re: 100/Six Registry (BN4 & BN6)
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Golding, Frank
To: 'alan@andysnet.net' ; Alex
Cc: 'Dave & Marlene' ; 'BJ8Healeys' ; healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, May 29, 2003 7:37 PM
Subject: RE: Registries; was: Re: 100/Six Registry (BN4 & BN6)
List,
These registries can be quite helpful. For example when I sent off my
information to the clubs last year, I listed my car number as the VIN # on my
California title H18111, Silly me. Bill Bolton of the tri card registry
questioned this, as the number 18111 is a car registered to an owner in
England. As it turns out, my car, was registered with the engine number and
not the car number on the title. The numbers were all confirmed by obtaining
the Heritage Trust Certificate, and comparing all numbers with those on the
engine, car & body. All match up.
Frank Golding
1960 BN7
Car # H-BN7-L/10610
Engine # 29D-RU-H/18111
Body # 3047BN7/9737
Gearbox # 9397
Rear Axle # 970343
OD # Darn it's not in my resource book! Maybe next time?
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 20:43:12 -0400
Subject: Healey Sighting
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7III
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 20:50:45 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey Sighting
<< http://www.mmscc.com/images/healybig.JPG >>
I remember seeing that car in the Moss newsletter about 5-8 years back. It's
also on the nasty boy's website (I seem to think...)
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 20:52:58 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey Sighting
<< Michael and Steve. Try this. http://www.mmscc.com/images/healybig.JPG
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7III >>
Here it is:
http://www.ntahc.org/modifiedhealeys/Photos/4Joppa/Joppa1.htm
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From John Kuzman <jjkbj7 at yahoo.com>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 18:18:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Stator Tube Confusion
---------------------------------
Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
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From Larry Hewlett <hewlettlj at shaw.ca>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 18:34:43 -0700
Subject: Re: Air Filters
Larry
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 19:54:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Stator Tube Confusion
> I cannot see, nor feel what I have
> been lead to believe should be the other piece of
> stator tube. Should the end be visible?
The tube is very hard to see from the steering wheel
side... maybe you would be able to see it with a
flashlight
> There is a portion of about 2 in. of tube at the end
> that protrudes from the steering box. Is a 2 in.
> protrusion normal?
No - this is probably part of the reason why it's not
connecting at the top. the end of the tube should be
flush with the "olive nut" on the end of the gearbox.
> Does the 6.5 in. stator tube permanently affixed to
> the assembly go inside, or outside the other stator
> tube piece?
The 6.5 in. stator tube slides over the outside of the
main stator tube in the steering column. It is not
permanently affixed and should slide freely in and out
with the steering wheel - making it adjustable. The
four notches in the 6.5 in stator will slide into a
channel slot that's cut about 4-6 inches long on the
main stator tube.
> If I need to replace the longer piece, is this as
> simple as just loosening the nut on the end by the
> steering box and either pulling it out from the end
> of the steering box or pulling it up from the
> steering column on the wheel end and sliding a new
> one in place?
the only way to do it without removing the whole
steering assembly is to pull the stator tub out
through the steering wheel side. It is easy to remove
- simply remove the "olive nut" on the steering box
end of the tube.... and remove the "olive" on the end
of the tube (its a tight fit but it should slide off
with only a small amount of effort). Beware - if you
remove the olive nut, oil will empty out of your
steering box.
> Right now, the assembly is installed, but the entire
> assembly rotates freely (the old one did this as
> well) and the turn signal knob gets hung up on the
> heads of the steering wheel fasteners.
It should not hang up - this is easy to fix... loosen
the control head assembly grub screws (in the steering
box - allen screws most likely) and pull the control
head out slightly.. then tighten the grub screws down
again and they should clear the screw heads used to
hold your moto lita in place.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
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From "James Shope" <healeymanjim at JoiMail.com>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 21:26:26 -0700
Subject: tire again
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From John Harper <AH at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 30 May 2003 07:58:34 +0100
Subject: Re: Registries; was: Re: 100/Six Registry (BN4 & BN6)
I would like to respond to some of the points made recently on the
subject of Registers.
I admit that I do not always respond to all inputs on an individual
basis but that does not mean that input is not appreciated. I would like
to thank again all those who have sent me information for the UK 100
Register.
The reason I do not respond to every input is because I often receive so
many at times that I need all my time to cover specific queries. These I
always try to answer and as soon as I can. Normally this is just a few
days unless of course I am away from home.
Dave - In your case you sent me your car details on 24 June 2002. I most
likely did not respond specifically to this but I have sent you comments
on technical issues. Three around the 10 August 2002 and two recently
around 19 May 2003.
I do not recall you asking me for previous information about your BN2
but as I did not have any, this point is academic.
Somebody said that nothing was ever published by Register Secretaries.
Well please go and look at
http://www.jharper.demon.co.uk/chassis1.htm
This gives the chassis number of all 100s where we have worthwhile
information about a car. Yes I know that this is only a start but it is
now proving quite useful. Often I get queries saying that they have
found their chassis number on our list and can we tell them more. If
they are not the current owner then we have to seek permission before
doing this.
As I said - only a start. However I see no real reason why we cannot
soon publish the associated body numbers, colours etc. but we have to
take things slowly. A few UK members were a little concerned about
publishing just the chassis numbers but objections have virtually ceased
now that the system is in use. Given a little more time I expect there
to be no real objections about adding more car information. Having said
this it is very unlikely that we would ever publish owner information.
UK law does not allow it and even if it did there would be far too many
objections to allow this to happen.
Obviously I cannot speak for other registers but if 100 owners send
information to the UK Register it would be most appreciated and if there
are registration or technical queries that are within our power to help
with, we will do all we can to respond in a reasonable period of time.
I hope this answers some of the points raised recently.
All the best
>
>OK convince me. What information do you have published or can send out?
>Number of each type, year, color , trim, geographic location, etc. The
>most common excuse seems to be that it is a privacy/security issue &
>things must be kept secret. If so -- the registry is of very little use
>to me.
>
>I sent info on my car to several different registries & never even got
>acknowledgement that anything was received. Certainly no offers to
>provide past history on my car. Forgive me if I have this all wrong.
>
>Dave Russell
>BN2
>
--
John Harper
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From RAntal243 at aol.com
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 30 May 2003 12:35:59 EDT
Subject: cockpit flooding
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From "Turney, John" <John.Turney at shawgrp.com>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 30 May 2003 09:38:13 -0700
Subject: Re: Stator Tube Confusion
You have the same setup as on my BN4.
The short stator tube (6.5 in.) goes outside the long stator tube (app. 4.5 ft
long). The long tube will have a slot in the top in which those four
indentations slide. The long tube is held by the nut and "olive" at the
steering box. Approximately 2 inches of protrusion is normal.
Just loosen that nut and the long tube should slide. If not, you'll have to
remove the nut and free up the olive. BTW, once you take the nut and olive
loose, you may have some oil drain out from the steering box. The top of the
long tube isn't normally visible, because it's about 4 in. down inside the
steering column. If you push the long tube up the column, you may get it high
enough to see. You may have to use the wires to help pull it up.
Once you get it to the point you can see the end, then you can line up the
indentations and slot. (On mine, the long tube broke off at the base of the
slot and had to be replaced. I got a new one from British Car Specialists,
although there may be other sources.) Once you get them back together, slide
the assembly down until the long tube protrudes from the bottom again. You may
need to use the wires to help guide the lower end of the tube through the
bottom hole in the steering box. Make sure the lower end is clean and dry, and
reattach the olive and nut. The olive and nut should keep the long tube from
rotating and seal the opening so the oil doesn't leak out. If there's oil on
the lower end of the long tube, the olive and nut won't stop rotation and
you'll be tempted to keep tightening until the nut breaks to stop the rotation
(No need to ask how I know that).
To keep from having the turn signal lever hanging up on the steering wheel
fasteners, you will have to fiddle with the three set screws in the hub that
hold the horn/turn signal assembly and pull the assembly out just enough to
clear. I recall the steering wheel screws are oval head. If that doesn't
work, you may have to exchange them for flat head screws.
Once you have everything together, check the oil level in the steering box.
John, BN4
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 18:18:08 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Kuzman <jjkbj7@yahoo.com>
Subject: Stator Tube Confusion
Hello List!
I have finally completed my dashbord restoration project and the installation
of a new Moto Lita wheel. Now I have an issue with the control head assembly
for a BJ7 with adjustable steering.
The assembly has a 6.5 in. tube that has four in-line indentations on the end
which is inserted into the column. I cannot see, nor feel what I have been lead
to believe should be the other piece of stator tube. Should the end be visible?
There is a portion of about 2 in. of tube at the end that protrudes from the
steering box. Is a 2 in. protrusion normal?
Does the 6.5 in. stator tube permanently affixed to the assembly go inside, or
outside the other stator tube piece?
If I need to replace the longer piece, is this as simple as just loosening the
nut on the end by the steering box and either pulling it out from the end of
the steering box or pulling it up from the steering column on the wheel end and
sliding a new one in place?
Right now, the assembly is installed, but the entire assembly rotates freely
(the old one did this as well) and the turn signal knob gets hung up on the
heads of the steering wheel fasteners.
I checked the archives, and while I found some information, I am still
confused. Any and all guidance would be appreciated. Thanks.
John - BJ7
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 30 May 2003 16:34:10 -0400
Subject: Re: Stator Tube Confusion
2 inches of protrusion sounded like a lot to me, so I checked both my BJ7 and
my BJ8. The BJ7 steering box has about 1 inch total protrusion, from the
front surface of the box to the very (unthreaded) end of the tube. The BJ8
has what appears to be even less, although it is harder to get a good look at.
I would say it is about 3/4 inch. That may be why you can't see or feel the
upper end of the stator tube, because it protrudes too much at the bottom.
Your turn signal assembly is turning because the short tube is probably not
mated with the long tube. You might be able to fix this by loosening the nut
and olive at the front of the steering box and pushing the tube back about an
inch or so.
I have never had any problem finding the end of the tube to guide in the short
tube from the turn signal assembly. I have never disturbed the long tube from
either steering box; they both came to me the way they are, so they have been
that way at least 20 years.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: John Kuzman
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, May 29, 2003 9:18 PM
Subject: Stator Tube Confusion
Hello List!
I have finally completed my dashbord restoration project and the
installation of a new Moto Lita wheel. Now I have an issue with the control
head assembly for a BJ7 with adjustable steering.
The assembly has a 6.5 in. tube that has four in-line indentations on the
end which is inserted into the column. I cannot see, nor feel what I have been
lead to believe should be the other piece of stator tube. Should the end be
visible?
There is a portion of about 2 in. of tube at the end that protrudes from the
steering box. Is a 2 in. protrusion normal?
Does the 6.5 in. stator tube permanently affixed to the assembly go inside,
or outside the other stator tube piece?
If I need to replace the longer piece, is this as simple as just loosening
the nut on the end by the steering box and either pulling it out from the end
of the steering box or pulling it up from the steering column on the wheel end
and sliding a new one in place?
Right now, the assembly is installed, but the entire assembly rotates freely
(the old one did this as well) and the turn signal knob gets hung up on the
heads of the steering wheel fasteners.
I checked the archives, and while I found some information, I am still
confused. Any and all guidance would be appreciated. Thanks.
John - BJ7
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From brouillette at attbi.com
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 30 May 2003 20:50:13 +0000
Subject: Healey in passing today heading toward NH
Mike Brouillette
59 BT7
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From RAntal243 at aol.com
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 30 May 2003 17:04:40 EDT
Subject: Re: cockpit flooding
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 30 May 2003 17:04:49 -0400
Subject: Re: cockpit flooding
Whenever I wash my car on an incline, with the front end on the upslope, I get
water into the floors via the bonnet hinges (with the bonnet down). Not that
that is your source of leakage, but it's a possibility.
I would suggest that you explore under the dash area with a flashlight the
next time you find evidence of water leaking in. You might be able to see
some drops reflected in the light and determine the source that way. I found
the source of my leak when I found water drops on the bottom of the hinge
housings inside the cockpit.
Good luck!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: RAntal243@aol.com
To: Healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Friday, May 30, 2003 12:35 PM
Subject: cockpit flooding
Greetings list,
I've owned a 65 BJ8 for more than 20 years and in all that time the
cockpit has predictably flooded (and i do mean flooded) whenever I drive in
the
rain. I've replaced the windshield/body rubber gasket, the gaskets at the
base
of the windshield wiper posts, the gaskets at the base of the windshield
washers to no avail. The water definitely enters at the front or lateral
sides of
the cockpit and not from the rear. Any suggestions would be greatly
appreciated.....Thank, Noah and the Ark.
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From "John P. New" <jnew at hazelden.ca>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: 30 May 2003 18:16:14 -0400
Subject: Rear axle vertical travel
This weekend I am removing the rear leaf springs on my Phase II BJ8 to
have them re-arched to compensate for a ride height that is too high. I
wanted to get some opinions on the where the rear axle, at rest, should
lay between the frame (lower stop) and the bump box (upper stop).
Currently, there is 0.5" between the bottom of the rear axle and the
rubber pad on the frame; there is 3.5" between the rubber bumper on the
top of the rear axle and the bump box. This would equate to a total of
four inches of vertical travel.
My question is: Should the axle be dead centre between the two stops
(i.e. as much travel down as up) or something else?
I would love to lower the rear end by about 1.25" (to get the wheel
wells to match up with the tires), which would put the axle slightly
lower than centre by about .25". If there is something wrong with this,
I need to to know!
John P. New
London, Ontario, Canada
'67 BJ8
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 30 May 2003 18:27:46 -0700
Subject: Re: Stator Tube Confusion
IMHO the stator tube should protrude from the box only about 1/2 inch. And
with the aid of a flashlight you can see the end of it if you view down the
steering tube.
Look at the teats on the short piece. If they are flattened out or rounded
on the sides from improper installation or wear as is often the case, the
slot in the stator tube will be hard to find and/or the head assembly will
rotate.
Since your traf has been rotating for a while, if I were you I would pull
the stator tube. It cannot come out forward because it runs into the
shroud. You must pull it up through the cockpit. Then check to see how
well the two pieces mate up. This will tell you once and for all what needs
to be done to solve your prob.
Another issue you may be having is one which I encountered recently when
installing my Derrington wheel with new Le Carra boss. The 3 set screws
were not catching the flat plate of the traf assembly as the mating surface
of the boss was too far inward. Wound up having to cut and insert a piece
of pasteboard behind the flat plate. Everything fine now.
Keith Pennell
> Hello List!
> I have finally completed my dashbord restoration project and the
installation of a new Moto Lita wheel. Now I have an issue with the control
head assembly for a BJ7 with adjustable steering.
> The assembly has a 6.5 in. tube that has four in-line indentations on the
end which is inserted into the column. I cannot see, nor feel what I have
been lead to believe should be the other piece of stator tube. Should the
end be visible?
> There is a portion of about 2 in. of tube at the end that protrudes from
the steering box. Is a 2 in. protrusion normal?
> Does the 6.5 in. stator tube permanently affixed to the assembly go
inside, or outside the other stator tube piece?
> If I need to replace the longer piece, is this as simple as just loosening
the nut on the end by the steering box and either pulling it out from the
end of the steering box or pulling it up from the steering column on the
wheel end and sliding a new one in place?
> Right now, the assembly is installed, but the entire assembly rotates
freely (the old one did this as well) and the turn signal knob gets hung up
on the heads of the steering wheel fasteners.
> I checked the archives, and while I found some information, I am still
confused. Any and all guidance would be appreciated. Thanks.
> John - BJ7
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 30 May 2003 17:40:04 -0600
Subject: Re: Rear axle vertical travel
There is actually a little more total travel than the apparent 4 inches.
Since the bump stop is fairly thick & soft, it is best to use some of
this give as compression (bump) travel.
I try to get around 1.5" of up (rebound) travel. If the up is too little
the axle is constantly banging on the rebound stop. If it is too much
the axle is constantly bottoming on the bump stop. Your numbers are
close to this 1.5 inches & should work. Keep in mind that fuel, luggage
& passenger weight will affect this ride height. As a check, the numbers
usually given for the BJ8 are around 28 inches from ground to fender
opening. If you get it too low it will be dragging it's tail & precious
ground clearance will be lost.
Kind of hard to get it just right. It might take a couple of spring
adjustments & the springs may sag a little more after use for a time. I
think that most people just take whatever the springs give them & live
with it.
It takes really good shocks to control the rebound as much as possible
since rebound travel is so little.
Dave Russell
John P. New wrote:
> List,
>
> This weekend I am removing the rear leaf springs on my Phase II BJ8 to
> have them re-arched to compensate for a ride height that is too high. I
> wanted to get some opinions on the where the rear axle, at rest, should
> lay between the frame (lower stop) and the bump box (upper stop).
>
> Currently, there is 0.5" between the bottom of the rear axle and the
> rubber pad on the frame; there is 3.5" between the rubber bumper on the
> top of the rear axle and the bump box. This would equate to a total of
> four inches of vertical travel.
>
> My question is: Should the axle be dead centre between the two stops
> (i.e. as much travel down as up) or something else?
>
> I would love to lower the rear end by about 1.25" (to get the wheel
> wells to match up with the tires), which would put the axle slightly
> lower than centre by about .25". If there is something wrong with this,
> I need to to know!
>
> John P. New
> London, Ontario, Canada
> '67 BJ8
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From <lists at autox.team.net>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 30 May 2003 19:00:29 -0600
Subject: Forwarded: slipping clutch
http://www.team.net/posting.html
Reply to author, not me.
mjb.
----
------- Start of forwarded message -------
From: <bate1025@bellsouth.net>
Subject: slipping clutch
Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 21:18:49 -0400
My 100-6 clutch with 8k miles on it is slipping when hot. Does this
indicate oil is in the housing? If so, what should be done to prevent
oil leakage in the future? Can repair be done without going into the
engine? Can it be anything else?
John Bates
------- End of forwarded message -------
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From "Kufchak" <leemar at bendcable.com>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 30 May 2003 19:09:46 -0700
Subject: Dash Refinish
I have a copy of Jim Werner's refinishing instructions where he used
Envirotex. The finish on my current dash is cracked badly (looks like cracked
glass), and I don't know what kind of epoxy the PO had used, whether Envirotex
or something else. Does anyone have any experience with this product over
time? Does it crack? Should I use this product or polyester, shellac,
lacquer, or what? Clearly, anything I use has to be UV resistant, and I don't
want to try something and find out it didn't work, then do it again. Any
suggestions?
Thanks, Lee
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 30 May 2003 22:51:09 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Dash Refinish
I used spray can water-based urethane that I bought at
Home depot about 7 years ago (don't know if you can
still buy it.. it was called Diamond Finish I think).
I applied about 10 or 15 coats total over two or three
weeks and block sanded the surface flat between each
coat. This was important because the wood continued
to soak in the urethane over the three weeks.
I used progressively finer sand paper starting with
something like 400 or 600 and the final coats I was
sanding with 1000 grit (or higher if you can find it).
I would sand out any orange peel or imperfection on
each coat starting with the third coat.
The last coat I sanded with the finest sandpaper I
could find and then followed up with polishing
compound until it was glassy smooth. I may have even
used car wax or brasso as the final polishing agent
after the polishing compound... I don't remember.
The resultant finish was as flat as glass with a deep
finish like original. It hasn't cracked or faded one
bit since... looks as beautiful the day I applied it,
and I can clean it with strong cleaners like 409
without any worry.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Kufchak <leemar@bendcable.com> wrote:
> The dash on my BJ8 is cracked and needs to be
> refinished. I pulled the
> passenger side (what a job with the hidden
> fasteners) and tried some stripper.
> Evidently the PO had used an epoxy finish because
> the stripper didn't touch
> it. I resorted to a heat gun and have removed all
> of the epoxy. Now to the
> interesting part.
>
> I have a copy of Jim Werner's refinishing
> instructions where he used
> Envirotex. The finish on my current dash is cracked
> badly (looks like cracked
> glass), and I don't know what kind of epoxy the PO
> had used, whether Envirotex
> or something else. Does anyone have any experience
> with this product over
> time? Does it crack? Should I use this product or
> polyester, shellac,
> lacquer, or what? Clearly, anything I use has to be
> UV resistant, and I don't
> want to try something and find out it didn't work,
> then do it again. Any
> suggestions?
>
> Thanks, Lee
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From "David Masucci" <david_m at radiantsoundworks.com>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 06:37:31 -0400
Subject: Re: Dash Refinish
All I can tell you is that I refinished mine with Envirotex about 3 years
ago, and it still looks perfect. I really can't tell you about its long term
durability however.
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kufchak" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 30, 2003 10:09 PM
Subject: Dash Refinish
> The dash on my BJ8 is cracked and needs to be refinished. I pulled the
> passenger side (what a job with the hidden fasteners) and tried some
stripper.
> Evidently the PO had used an epoxy finish because the stripper didn't
touch
> it. I resorted to a heat gun and have removed all of the epoxy. Now to
the
> interesting part.
>
> I have a copy of Jim Werner's refinishing instructions where he used
> Envirotex. The finish on my current dash is cracked badly (looks like
cracked
> glass), and I don't know what kind of epoxy the PO had used, whether
Envirotex
> or something else. Does anyone have any experience with this product over
> time? Does it crack? Should I use this product or polyester, shellac,
> lacquer, or what? Clearly, anything I use has to be UV resistant, and I
don't
> want to try something and find out it didn't work, then do it again. Any
> suggestions?
>
> Thanks, Lee
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From KingR44916 at aol.com
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 07:19:36 EDT
Subject: Smitty Conversion
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 07:33:39 EDT
Subject: Re: Smitty Conversion
> Looking to do a conversion on my 3000 bj8 ,can anyone tell me what is the
> exact # of the Toyota trans that they used .Also does the driveshaft have to
> be
> changed
There's a very good article to be found here: <A
HREF="http://www.austinhealeyclub.co.uk/tech_toyota.html";>Click here: Technical
5 Speed</A>
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans w/Smitty's conversion
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From "Terence H. & Suzanne F. McCool" <cm18 at epix.net>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 07:40:01 -0400
Subject: Petronix
I have been corresponding with Jeff Zorn of LBC Co about the petronix for my
100-M. I have added a email I rec'd from Jeff yesterday and I'm not going
to send my dist to petronix now that the weather is nice. My question is
does anyone have an extra old style, that takes the two piece points, they
could sent to petronix? Probably just the plate would have to go. It seems
petrominx wants to get the correct setup for us and I have to commend Jeff
for being more then diligent and quickly responding. I have good digital
pics of my dist with the points in and out if you would want to make sure
they are the same. If you are interested in doing this email me directly
and I can email you the pics
Regards and Happy Healeying!
Terry 100-M
Terry,
I have spoken to pertronix about this several times now and the kit I sent
you should work on it from what they can tell. Can you send the
distriubutor to them and they will have a look at it to see if there is
something strange on it and then get back to me about it?
If you can please send it to :
Mr. Marvin Grebow
c/o Pertronix
440 E. Arrow Highway
San Dimas, Ca 91773
Put a note in there that this has been discussed with John and Jeff Zorn
from Little British Car Co and for them to get back to me at 248-489-0022.
send a copy of this email with it please
> > > >
> > > > > Jeff
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From Tlfelts at aol.com
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 07:51:37 EDT
Subject: Re: Dash Refinish----TEST do not read
>
> The dash on my BJ8 is cracked and needs to be refinished. I pulled the
> passenger side (what a job with the hidden fasteners) and tried some
> stripper.
> Evidently the PO had used an epoxy finish because the stripper didn't touch
> it. I resorted to a heat gun and have removed all of the epoxy. Now to the
> interesting part.
>
> I have a copy of Jim Werner's refinishing instructions where he used
> Envirotex. The finish on my current dash is cracked badly (looks like
> cracked
> glass), and I don't know what kind of epoxy the PO had used, whether
> Envirotex
> or something else. Does anyone have any experience with this product over
> time? Does it crack? Should I use this product or polyester, shellac,
> lacquer, or what? Clearly, anything I use has to be UV resistant, and I
> don't
> want to try something and find out it didn't work, then do it again. Any
> suggestions?
>
> Thanks, Lee
>
test---test
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From Tlfelts at aol.com
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 07:54:04 EDT
Subject: Re: Dash Refinish----=TEST TEST do not read
>
> Lee,
All I can tell you is that I refinished mine with Envirotex about 3 years
ago, and it still looks perfect. I really can't tell you about its long term
durability however.
test test
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 07:17:04 -0500
Subject: Re: Smitty Conversion
----- Original Message -----
From: <KingR44916@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 31, 2003 6:19 AM
Subject: Smitty Conversion
> Looking to do a conversion on my 3000 bj8 ,can anyone tell me what is the
> exact # of the Toyota trans that they used .Also does the driveshaft have
to be
> changed. thanks
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From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 09:36:02 -0500
Subject: 100-4 or two-seater aluminum??? need help identifying!
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
63 BJ-7
Sturgeon Bay, WI.
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From "John P. New" <jnew at hazelden.ca>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: 31 May 2003 11:21:37 -0400
Subject: Re: Rear axle vertical travel
Thanks for the great info. I just wanted to clarify a few things.
When you measure the 1.5" rebound travel, I believe that is the distance
between the bottom of the rear axle and the frame, correct? And, how
laden is the car? Full gas tank, spare in the trunk and two occupants?
If I lower the rear end by 1.25", the top of the fender opening will be
at 27.5", fairly close to the number you gave.
Thanks again,
John P. New
London, Ontario, Canada
'67 BJ8
On Fri, 2003-05-30 at 19:40, Dave & Marlene wrote:
> John,
> The Healeys are woefully short on axle travel & everything is a compromise.
>
> There is actually a little more total travel than the apparent 4 inches.
> Since the bump stop is fairly thick & soft, it is best to use some of
> this give as compression (bump) travel.
>
> I try to get around 1.5" of up (rebound) travel. If the up is too little
> the axle is constantly banging on the rebound stop. If it is too much
> the axle is constantly bottoming on the bump stop. Your numbers are
> close to this 1.5 inches & should work. Keep in mind that fuel, luggage
> & passenger weight will affect this ride height. As a check, the numbers
> usually given for the BJ8 are around 28 inches from ground to fender
> opening. If you get it too low it will be dragging it's tail & precious
> ground clearance will be lost.
>
> Kind of hard to get it just right. It might take a couple of spring
> adjustments & the springs may sag a little more after use for a time. I
> think that most people just take whatever the springs give them & live
> with it.
>
> It takes really good shocks to control the rebound as much as possible
> since rebound travel is so little.
> Dave Russell
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 11:41:59 EDT
Subject: Re: Rear axle vertical travel
While moving my tri-carb to its' new home, my wife (who was following me in
case of trouble) reported that the car looked fine as to tracking, etc. but
that it was low on the left side. I kinda laughed it off (I weigh more than I
used to) but did some checking in the garage and there is about 3/4" difference
(25-1/2" vs. 26-1/4"). The car has new 175-15 tires, and there is some heavy
stuff in the trunk. Does anyone know the ground to fender dimension for a BT7?
Is 3/4" difference enough to cause panic, or is it just something I should
take care of in the future? Car will be driven VERY little, as I gradually go
through things. Thanks.
Dick Hosmer
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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 11:51:15 EDT
Subject: Re: 100-4 or two-seater aluminum??? need help identifying!
If these are indeed from 100-4 models:
Body #45 is a very early car made about August or September 1953. The
chassis number was probably about 14020X.
There is are some photos of the "remains of body #45" on Larry Varley's
website.
<A HREF="http://www.users.bigpond.com/acmefluid/45.html";>Click here: Austin
Healey number 45</A>
Perhaps Larry (varley@cosmos.net.au) has additional information.
Body #4979 would most likely be from a BN-1 made in July 1954, chassis number
around 1593XX. John Harper (john@jharper.demon.co.uk) may have additional
information in the UK Registry.
Regards.
Steve Mickelson
Trying to help the BN-1/BN-2 Registries
But way behind at the moment
In a message dated 5/31/2003 7:39:39 AM Pacific Standard Time,
dicksonr@uwm.edu writes:
> by the front, 4979. The other has a two digit number of 45. It possibly
> may
> have had more digits but there is a little corrosion after the second digit.
> I
> would say it looks only like two digits though. Any help identifying these
> pieces will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!!!
>
>
> Randy Dickson
> Healey Archaeologist
> 63 BJ-7
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 09:19:35 -0700
Subject: Re: 100-4 or two-seater aluminum??? need help identifying!
John Snyder
----- Original Message -----
> I bought a truck load of spares last year from a couple of friends and I
do
> not know which car these aluminum trim pieces go to. I have two pieces
that
> are the same. They are both rear alum. trim pieces that go accross the
back of
> the cockpit. They are one piece and not the two piece type on the
four-seater
> roadsters. Thus, I was wondering if they could be for two seater
roadsters or
> a 100-4. They are about 9 inches from front to back (give or take an
inch) and
> about 4 feet accross. One has a four digit number stamped inside the ride
side
> by the front, 4979. The other has a two digit number of 45. It possibly
may
> have had more digits but there is a little corrosion after the second
digit. I
> would say it looks only like two digits though. Any help identifying
these
> pieces will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!!!
>
>
> Randy Dickson
> Healey Archaeologist
> 63 BJ-7
> Sturgeon Bay, WI.
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 13:03:59 EDT
Subject: Re: 100-4 or two-seater aluminum??? need help identifying!
Since my BT7 wore a roll-bar for many years, the rear cockpit is no longer
"concourse-original" anyhow, though the rear seat pans were not disturbed, only
the seat back was affected by the diagonal backbrace. At some point I will
need a top, and a tonneau cover; but they could be postponed until I decided
what
I would do about the BT-BN bit.
At the very least, I AM going to reengineer the spare into the rear cockpit,
in a manner similar to the 100S.
Any thoughts about the panel work? Would it be feasible to start with a BN
shroud and "splice" it to the installed BT item with two small horizontal
joints (heliarc) near the trunk lid corners? This should eliminate an awful
lot of
fiddling with the wings, etc. Since absolute concourse correctness is not the
goal (just having it very neatly done will suffice) is this practical?
Thanks in advance.
Dick Hosmer
BT7L18556
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From Ronald Fine <ronfineesq at earthlink.net>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 10:23:15 -0700
Subject: New Down Pipes
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 11:29:51 -0600
Subject: Re: 100-4 or two-seater aluminum??? need help identifying!
The "approximate" dimensions of the 100-4 trim are the same as yours.
Dave Russell
dicksonr@uwm.edu wrote:
> I bought a truck load of spares last year from a couple of friends and I do
> not know which car these aluminum trim pieces go to. I have two pieces that
> are the same. They are both rear alum. trim pieces that go accross the back
>of
> the cockpit. They are one piece and not the two piece type on the
>four-seater
> roadsters. Thus, I was wondering if they could be for two seater roadsters
>or
> a 100-4. They are about 9 inches from front to back (give or take an inch)
>and
> about 4 feet accross. One has a four digit number stamped inside the ride
>side
> by the front, 4979. The other has a two digit number of 45. It possibly may
> have had more digits but there is a little corrosion after the second digit.
>I
> would say it looks only like two digits though. Any help identifying these
> pieces will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!!!
>
>
> Randy Dickson
> Healey Archaeologist
> 63 BJ-7
> Sturgeon Bay, WI.
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 11:39:53 -0600
Subject: Re: Rear axle vertical travel
Yes, measured between bottom of axle & top of rebound bumper. This
bumper has very little give.
I would think that the load should be the same as that which the car is
going to be loaded for the majority of the time. Probably full tank,
spare, & two occupants. Again, as with all things Healey -- a compromise.
Dave Russell
John P. New wrote:
> Dave,
>
> Thanks for the great info. I just wanted to clarify a few things.
>
> When you measure the 1.5" rebound travel, I believe that is the distance
> between the bottom of the rear axle and the frame, correct? And, how
> laden is the car? Full gas tank, spare in the trunk and two occupants?
>
> If I lower the rear end by 1.25", the top of the fender opening will be
> at 27.5", fairly close to the number you gave.
>
> Thanks again,
>
> John P. New
> London, Ontario, Canada
> '67 BJ8
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at sbcglobal.net>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 10:54:26 -0700
Subject: Re: New Down Pipes
Here's my plan (as someone once said): I have an original down pipe
and I will take it with me to the best hotrod muffler shop I can find.
I will have them make up an exact match. Somewhere I will find some
of that flexible tubine needed at the exit end. Maybe the shop will
stock it in the right size.
-Roland
BN1 in recovery, BJ7
On Sat, 31 May 2003 10:23:15 -0700, you wrote:
::I just received two new mild steel down pipes for my 61BN7 from my
::favorite California distributor. I was told by the sales person that
::all of these come from England. I was disappointed with the quality.
::They were manufactured on a very primitive pipe bending machine that
::could not make a smooth bend. The bends are accomplished by a series of
::small indentations or scallops on the inside of the curve. They don't
::look anything like the original pipes. I know that any modern muffler
::shop can bend pipe smoothly without such indentations. Question is has
::anyone else purchased mild steel down pipes recently from another source
::that don't look like they were made in some high school shop class??
::Any help is always appreciated.
::Ron
::61BN7
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 12:10:41 -0600
Subject: Re: Rear axle vertical travel
Due to manufacturing variations & repair operations over the years, the
fender opening height is not a very reliable indicator. Neither is
bumper level.
The ride height numbers usually given are 28 inches for the late BJ8
(phase 2) & 27 inches for all others.
A lot of cars seem to be lower on the left side. Actually, very few cars
are level. It has been attributed to unbalanced load over a number of
years (driver only) & a number of other wierd things. I wonder if RHD
cars sag to the right? Mostly people just live with it. It may be a
combination of front & rear springs, not just the rear. If it bothers
you enough, really looks tilted going down the road, sometimes
interchanging the rear springs will help. Sometimes interchanging the
front springs will help. Others have replace springs & still not gotten
the car level.
I try for unnessary perfection & changed the rear springs twice &
lowered the right front by 1/2 inch. Also adjusted bumper heights. Lot
of work for not much gain.
Dave Russell
RAHosmer@aol.com wrote:
> List,
>
> While moving my tri-carb to its' new home, my wife (who was following me in
> case of trouble) reported that the car looked fine as to tracking, etc. but
> that it was low on the left side. I kinda laughed it off (I weigh more than I
> used to) but did some checking in the garage and there is about 3/4"
>difference
> (25-1/2" vs. 26-1/4"). The car has new 175-15 tires, and there is some heavy
> stuff in the trunk. Does anyone know the ground to fender dimension for a
>BT7?
> Is 3/4" difference enough to cause panic, or is it just something I should
> take care of in the future? Car will be driven VERY little, as I gradually go
> through things. Thanks.
>
> Dick Hosmer
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From BillHUCK at aol.com
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 14:12:04 EDT
Subject: Re: Dash Refinish
I had a badly delaminated '67 dash. I carefully picked off the bad stuff
then poured the above onto the bare wood areas. Perfect result. New and old
areas indistinquishable. No sanding required. Still perfect ten years later.
Bill Huck
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From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 15:59:52 -0400
Subject: Front fender beading
Thanks,
Mick Vander Ploeg
'57 BN4, going back together.
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From "John" <john4 at attbi.com>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 11:56:42 -0700
Subject: JUNE 2003 Healey Happenings
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name
of June_2003.pdf]
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From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 16:13:14 -0400
Subject: Braided Stainless Brake Hoses
Thanks,
Mick Vander Ploeg
'57 BN4
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 17:20:45 EDT
Subject: Re: 100-4 or two-seater aluminum??? need help identifying!
<< Any thoughts about the panel work? Would it be feasible to start with a
BN
shroud and "splice" it to the installed BT item with two small horizontal
joints (heliarc) near the trunk lid corners? This should eliminate an awful
lot of
fiddling with the wings, etc. Since absolute concourse correctness is not the
goal (just having it very neatly done will suffice) is this practical?
Thanks in advance. >>
Seems like a job that could be done. That shroud could be spliced as you
describe. No need to mess with the wings. Chassis parts to use for the battery
compartment, door, and spare tire hole for a BN6-7 could be bought from a few
different suppliers. If you find a rear shroud complete, that would work also.
Good luck,
Rick
San Diego
BN6 http://members.aol.com/wilko
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 17:22:32 EDT
Subject: Re: New Down Pipes
<< Question is has
anyone else purchased mild steel down pipes recently from another source
that don't look like they were made in some high school shop class??
Any help is always appreciated.
Ron
61BN7 >>
I bought a set from a popular CA supplier that look as you describe. Since
I've installed them, I've never seen them (except where the flex pipe has
recently broken. they are about 10 years old.)
Rick
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From "Bob Johnson" <robert.w.johnson at earthlink.net>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 17:37:44 -0400
Subject: ignition coils
The car will crank with the wiring to the coil hooked up either way (wht-blk
wire to pos or neg). What happens if you reverse the connections?
Bob Johnson
BJ8
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 17:09:45 -0600
Subject: Re: ignition coils
Not much of anything will happen if the coil is hooked up backward.
Theoretically you will have a slightly better spark with the coil
correctly connected.
Dave Russell
Bob Johnson wrote:
> BJ8
> 2 questions: (I wish the archives were not so hard to get through)
> Is sw on the wiring diagram negative or positive?
>
> The car will crank with the wiring to the coil hooked up either way (wht-blk
> wire to pos or neg). What happens if you reverse the connections?
>
> Bob Johnson
> BJ8
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 17:40:18 -0500
Subject: Re: Front fender beading
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From Covesgarage at wmconnect.com
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 20:56:08 EDT
Subject: 66 bj8
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 22:08:58 EDT
Subject: Re: ignition coils
When I am in a used book store , I always go looking for old , British Car
books.
Sometime ago I found one about LUCAS ignition . The store owner told me he
had had these books 10 years and never sold one , so I purchased his complete
stock .
This book tells just about everything you would need to know about " HOW
IT WORKS ''. For example , the coil - function and troubleshooting ,
distributors , centrifugal and vacuum advance , high performance engines ,
timing light
. electronic ignition , trouble shooting .
The last 41 pages list over 1,000 distributors by part number, model ,
centrifugal advance degrees at three different R.P.M , and at what R.P.M there
is
zero advance .
Copies are available for $ 15.00 + S.H Norman Nock - British Car
Specialists
* * * * * * * * * *
Tech Talk by Norman Nock $30.00 + S H OVER 1500 SOLD
A Collection on my tech. articles, that have been in various magazines along
with factory and Lucas bulletins about how things work. In easy to understand
writing. 221 pages Call me for more information at 209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
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From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 22:13:30 -0500
Subject: Fwd: Re: cockpit flooding
My 63 BJ7 used to take on water back in 1969. It was coming in off the road
and spraying in through a rusted crack in the footwell box. It would spray
in like a geyser when I hit standing water such as a deep puddle.
Scott Dickson
64 Austin Healey 3000 BJ7
65 Jaguar E-Type OTS
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From Larry Hewlett <hewlettlj at shaw.ca>
From: bate1025@bellsouth.net
To: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 21:41:26 -0700
Subject: Silent Horns
Thanks
Larry Hewlett
63 BJ7
Peachland, B.C.
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|
