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From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2003 08:09:21 -0400
Subject: serial numbers on 100 cylinder heads
Allen BN2/M
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2003 08:54:48 -0400
Subject: Re: Buying a car on eBay
Greg. I also found my car in a local paper but I would never have known
about it if it had not been for this list. I put a note on the list that I
was looking for this car and a fellow lister notified me that an ad came up
in his town. He then went and looked at the car for me and gave it high
marks. The car turned out to be close to perfect at what I consider a good
price. The car never was on Ebay or Hemmings or the internet which I think
would probably driven up the price. So, one of the best tools for buying or
selling a Healey could very well be this list. I have no problem with folks
placing wanted or for sale items on the list be they parts or complete cars
as long as the subject line says "for sale" or "wanted" so that those not
interested can hit the delete key. In fact, I would like to see more of it.
Who better to trust than a fellow lister?
James Lea, happy Healey owner. Rockport Maine. 1962 BT7 II
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From John Harper <AH at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2003 14:06:17 +0100
Subject: Re: serial numbers on 100 cylinder heads
I have not heard of this before and I do not believe it to be a general
Austin feature. However there might be somebody out there that knows
more?
If however you were talking about the block you would find a number
behind where the water pump fits which matches the main bearing caps.
Having said this there seems to be no real pattern to this numbering. It
seems to just be a way of keeping blocks and main bearing caps together.
All the best
>I found a four-digit die-stamped serial number with the prefix 'S' on the
>raised rim of the head when I had the valve cover off. Is there any
>information on how these were matched to engine, batch or body numbers? Does
>BIHT have records Iof this nature? Alternately, is there any general time line
>of when specific serial number ranges were produced?
>
>Allen BN2/M
>
--
John Harper
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2003 09:44:08 EDT
Subject: Re: SouthEastern Classic
I'll bring extra Kentucky Bourbon to celebrate.
See You there!
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 01 Sep 2003 09:50:44 -0400
Subject: Re: Check this out
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark J. Bradakis" <mjb@autox.team.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 01, 2003 1:52 AM
Subject: Check this out
| Labor Day weekend here in America, and instead of having a nice holiday
| I am laboring away on various things, some related to the Team.Net
services.
| Within a few weeks I hope to be sending out an announcement to all
subscribers
| about server updates, cleaning up the web pages and such. But for now,
try
| out what could be a permanent addition to the Team.Net services:
|
| http://www.team.net/the-local
|
| You'll need to register to do more than just take a quick look.
|
| mjb.
|
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From Bob Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 01 Sep 2003 10:26:20 -0700
Subject: Re: SouthEastern Classic
Go down to Claremont and get some Jim Beam small batch bourbon. Booker's
is especially tasty.
Bob D.
Jwhlyadv@aol.com wrote:
>Thanks for all the advice. I called The Switzerland Inn and was lucky enough
>to get a room because someone had just called and canceled.
>
>I'll bring extra Kentucky Bourbon to celebrate.
>
>See You there!
>
>Thanks,
>
>Jim Werner
>Louisville, KY
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From Meemeb at aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2003 10:29:40 EDT
Subject: Chrome Platers Recommendation
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From "Greg Wilkinson" <gregwilkinson at adelphia.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2003 07:47:04 -0700
Subject: RE: Insulation/Dynamat
Best,
Greg
67 BJ8
-----Original Message-----
Can anyone tell me how many square feet of insulation it will take to
cover the floor, doors, etc. of my BJ7?
Also, any suggestions on what type of insulation to get. I have heard
about Dynamat but I was curious about other brands that may be available.
Win Graham
'63 BJ7
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From Bob Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 01 Sep 2003 10:46:04 -0700
Subject: Re: Chrome Platers Recommendation
Bob D.
Meemeb@aol.com wrote:
>I have heard some real horror stories about lost parts and poor results from
>chrome plating companies. Can anyone on the list give a recommendation on who
>to send my parts to that is reliable and does quality work at reasonable
>prices. Thanks.
>Bernie
>Cincinnati, Ohio
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From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2003 07:58:22 -0700
Subject: "A Car Is Reborn"
Just caught part of the last episode, where they put the finishing touches on
a 6-month frame-off on an "abandoned" E-Series Jag. Think it was a 10 or
11 part series, and in each episode they road tested a British classic. In the
last show the driver/evaluator picked the "best" car. Was pleasantly surprised
that the Big Healey--couldn't tell exactly what it was, looked like a BT7,
maybe--
came in second! This in a competition with MGB-GT (V8), Lotus Elan, Triumph
(250 or Stag, not sure), and several relatively exotic LBCs. The winner
was--get
this--a Lotus Cortina ... apparently a great handler but pretty spugly (to me,
at
least ... I'm sure they're beautiful to some). Kinda surprised, but they
(apparently)
didn't include a Mini (which might have won the "competition").
Yes, the show was hosted by the same, slightly corny but entertaining guy on
the "A Plane Is Born" and "A Chopper Is Born" series (good shows, all).
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
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From "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK at peoplepc.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2003 11:05:30 -0400
Subject: Re: serial numbers on 100 cylinder heads
I have 760 stamped on the raised edge close to one of the rear stud holes,
also B and OK by the water pipe valve hole. Down in the center are the part
number 1B2291 (I think) and J667, maybe the batch number, also the foundry
logo and up the otherway looks like 29-12-55, maybe the date of manufacture.
The head numbers have no connection with the engine number used in the
records as far as I know.
regards,
Peter Davis
----- Original Message -----
From: Allen C Miller, Jr. <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 01, 2003 8:09 AM
Subject: serial numbers on 100 cylinder heads
> I found a four-digit die-stamped serial number with the prefix 'S' on the
> raised rim of the head when I had the valve cover off. Is there any
> information on how these were matched to engine, batch or body numbers?
Does
> BIHT have records Iof this nature? Alternately, is there any general time
line
> of when specific serial number ranges were produced?
>
> Allen BN2/M
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From Bob Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 01 Sep 2003 11:09:55 -0700
Subject: Re: SouthEastern Classic
Bob Denton
Pat Davis wrote:
>Also "Knob Creek" small batch at JB Claremont but avoid Sunday when they
>cannot sell it. Take a look at the ageing warehouse and inhale the vapors.
>
>Peter Davis
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Bob Denton <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
>To: <Jwhlyadv@aol.com>
>Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Monday, September 01, 2003 1:26 PM
>Subject: Re: SouthEastern Classic
>
>
>
>
>>Jim,
>>
>>Go down to Claremont and get some Jim Beam small batch bourbon. Booker's
>>is especially tasty.
>>
>>Bob D.
>>
>>Jwhlyadv@aol.com wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>Thanks for all the advice. I called The Switzerland Inn and was lucky
>>>
>>>
>enough
>
>
>>>to get a room because someone had just called and canceled.
>>>
>>>I'll bring extra Kentucky Bourbon to celebrate.
>>>
>>>See You there!
>>>
>>>Thanks,
>>>
>>>Jim Werner
>>>Louisville, KY
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From "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK at peoplepc.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2003 11:19:02 -0400
Subject: Re: Chrome Platers Recommendation
Keystone Automotive at Kenilworth NJ did a good job in reasonable time and
cost. Call Vic Villalta at 908-276-6166. www.keystone-auto.com. Take a
photo of all the parts with descriptions before you send them and include a
copy with the shipment. Nu-chrome Corp in Fall River, MA, 508-324-0002,
www.nu-chrome.com, did a good job on my bumpers and other parts but took a
really long time and mislaid a few parts for a while, also sent me two parts
not mine.
regards,
Peter
----- Original Message -----
From: <Meemeb@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 01, 2003 10:29 AM
Subject: Chrome Platers Recommendation
> I have heard some real horror stories about lost parts and poor results
from
> chrome plating companies. Can anyone on the list give a recommendation on
who
> to send my parts to that is reliable and does quality work at reasonable
> prices. Thanks.
> Bernie
> Cincinnati, Ohio
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From carlalony2 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2003 11:14:40 EDT
Subject: RE: Chrome Plating
Lony Taylor
1963 BJ-7
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
Classic White.jpg]
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From Bob Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 01 Sep 2003 11:15:50 -0700
Subject: Re: SouthEastern Classic
Whiskey trivia.
Bob Denton
Pat Davis wrote:
>Also "Knob Creek" small batch at JB Claremont but avoid Sunday when they
>cannot sell it. Take a look at the ageing warehouse and inhale the vapors.
>
>Peter Davis
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Bob Denton <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
>To: <Jwhlyadv@aol.com>
>Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Monday, September 01, 2003 1:26 PM
>Subject: Re: SouthEastern Classic
>
>
>
>
>>Jim,
>>
>>Go down to Claremont and get some Jim Beam small batch bourbon. Booker's
>>is especially tasty.
>>
>>Bob D.
>>
>>Jwhlyadv@aol.com wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>Thanks for all the advice. I called The Switzerland Inn and was lucky
>>>
>>>
>enough
>
>
>>>to get a room because someone had just called and canceled.
>>>
>>>I'll bring extra Kentucky Bourbon to celebrate.
>>>
>>>See You there!
>>>
>>>Thanks,
>>>
>>>Jim Werner
>>>Louisville, KY
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2003 11:20:56 -0400
Subject: Vibrating oil pressure needle, fixed!
A week or so ago, I reported a vibrating oil pressure needle after bleeding
the air out of the gauge line in an attempt to get a higher reading on the
gauge.
I just disconnected the line at the gauge and allowed some air back in, and
the needle is steady again. It appears that the air in the line does act as
an accumulator to dampen the pressure pulses in the line. Since the pressure
is still just below 60 cold, and a hair under 40 hot, I guess I'm happy with
that.
Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
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From John Harper <AH at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2003 17:11:19 +0100
Subject: Re: Vibrating oil pressure needle, fixed!
Just for a matter of interest early post war Austins had problems of
'knock' which sounded like a mechanical fault and got owners worried.
This happened when the predecessors of 'our' four cylinder engine were
fitted to Austin 16s. The change that cured this was to reduce the hole
in the union which connects the flexible oil pipe to the block down to
1/32" diameter. This change carried right through to the 100. The part
number appears to be different on the six cylinder engine so I wonder if
this very small diameter hole continued after the 100?
All the best
>
>A week or so ago, I reported a vibrating oil pressure needle after bleeding
>the air out of the gauge line in an attempt to get a higher reading on the
>gauge.
>I just disconnected the line at the gauge and allowed some air back in, and
>the needle is steady again. It appears that the air in the line does act as
>an accumulator to dampen the pressure pulses in the line. Since the pressure
>is still just below 60 cold, and a hair under 40 hot, I guess I'm happy with
>that.
>
>
>
>Happy Healeying!
>
>Steve Byers
>HBJ8L/36666
>BJ8 Registry
>Havelock, NC USA
>
--
John Harper
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From <esantoro at drbc.state.nj.us>
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2003 9:30:20 --0700
Subject: Your details
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2003 12:12:10 -0400
Subject: Trade anyone? Sailboat for an A-H 3000?
If anyone's interested in all the nifty details of the boat, please contact
me off list (I can then send you JPEGs and the description).
The boat is presently in the water at a dock in South Portland, Maine,
within reach of Boston, Cape Cod, Buzzards Bay, Long Island Sound, and
points south. However, I also have a factory cradle for the vessel, so it
can be shipped overland just like a sportscar (the cradle is ideal for
winter storage, too).
Thanks for the bandwidth.
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
Amateur Radio AI2Q
http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
.-.-.
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From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2003 11:27:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Vapor Lock
". . . car started sputtering and stalling out with some mild backfire.
Restarted each time and we reached our destination and filled the car up
as we were low on Gas. Same issue next day, car ran fine in
mountains all day but same symptoms occurred when we were low on gas."
* * * * * * * * * *
Dirt or debris can clog one of the floats and make the engine stumble
and appear to be laboring (good analogy today on Labor Day), but with
two carburetors the car will keep on running somewhat feebly on the
other carburetor. Normally a fuel starvation will just cause the car to
sputter and die . . . a back fire would seem to indicate that there is
surplus fuel, but a momentary lack of ignition. When the ignition
returns, all the unburned fuel that has been sucked through the intake
and sent unburned out the exhaust valve finally catches fire and
explodes in the exhaust system.
Perhaps someone on the list has some experience with whether a weak fuel
pump will quit drawing fuel when it loses the "weight" of a full tank of
gas helping the pump to generate pressure.
Filling the tank with fresh gasoline from a gasoline station's
underground tank will lower the temperature of the gasoline in the car's
fuel tank as the 70 degree or so new fuel mixes with the warm gasoline
in the car's tank. This will prevent vapor lock until the new
gasoline's temperature rises up with the outside temperature.
For a more vivid explanation of what is going on with a backfire through
the tailpipe:
When I was a college student (1966-71) I drove a school bus for the
local elementary and high school district. I drove a 73 passenger
Gillig Coach that had a huge 534 cubic inch Ford Industrial V-8 gasoline
engine mounted in the rear. Very little room for exhaust system or
mufflers with a rear engine, so the twin pipes exiting the rear bumper
were really loud (but wonderful sounding to all the teenage college
student drivers). One of the previous drivers on my route taught me a
cool trick. After loading up all the farm kids west of Highway 99, I
would unload all the elementary school kids at the rural elementary
school then head back into Visalia on the freeway. The interchange
between Highway 99 and Highway 198 heading into town had a "subway"
under the railroad tracks that threaded through the interchange. In our
flat agricultural valley, the only "hills" we encountered were the
freeway on and off ramps. After unloading all the little kids, the high
school girls would all sit in the full width bench seat at the rear of
the bus right over the rear engine. As I drove down into the subway
tunnel under the railroad tracks at 55-60 mph, I would shut off the
ignition key and let the bus barrel down into the tunnel still coasting
in gear. Just as the rear end of the bus was in the concrete subway
tunnel under the railroad tracks I would switch the ignition back on and
the engine would resume life with a huge backfire explosion. The girls
in the backseat would all scream. Quite satisfying. Of course that
engine averaged 2.5 mpg so there would be a lot of unburned gasoline
sucked through the engine and out into the exhaust system in the 8 to 10
seconds it was coasting in gear.
I have never been able to figure out why you never see young college
kids driving school buses anymore. Good thing I am a lawyer now, as I am
not sure whether the Statute of Limitations on terrorizing teenage girls
has expired yet.
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
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From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 01 Sep 2003 16:19:44 -0400
Subject: Longbridge head
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From "M Lempert" <mlempert at bellsouth.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2003 16:15:39 -0400
Subject: Re: Buying a car on eBay
Looking at the sellers feedback record is one indication of their character
(I also pay attention to the way they respond to negative feedback). I've
bought two cars on ebay. I pretty much got what I expected. I bought two
other cars sight unseen, one Healey was less than accurately described ,
but I paid a very low price and eventually made a tidy sum on its sale
(after restoring). The other is my BN2 which came from Alaska. I guess I
took a big risk not having seen it or had the ability to have it checked
out. But again the money I offered took the risk into account. It turned
out to be a wonderful driver.
On another occasion I think I averted a screwing. I was going to bid on a
"Fully restored" Mach ! out of Utah. The seller had no feedback (an
indication to be cautious) and the car curiously had no bids, despite being
a reasonable price for such a car. I emailed the guy and told him I was
going to bid, but I would have the car verified by an independent
appraiser - and it would need to be as described before I completed the
transaction. He took the auction down shortly thereafter, responding that
he sold it locally. Somehow I doubt it.
So what it comes down to is you need to take measures to decrease your risk.
ebay provides the arena, but it doesn't attempt to take the place of using
good judgment.
Regards,
Mike Lempert
Charleston, SC
'56 BN2
'59 BN7
'60 Bugeye
'67 Mustang
'70 E-Type
'79 Midget
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From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2003 17:32:43 -0400
Subject: Battery Ground Switch Warning
I verified with a multimeter that the battery ground switch did not break
continuity to ground from the coil (wish I'd have thought of that before I
hotted anything up), removed the white/black wire to the faulty switch,
replaced the white/black wire between the coil and distributor, and tried to
crank it again. This time, the engine cranked perfectly and the new wire
between coil and distributor didn't even get warm. In case you're wondering,
the engine still didn't start...the 'rebuilt' fuel pump wouldn't click, even
after some raps with a wrench, so, it will soon be replaced with an electric
cube pump from NAPA.
Just wanted to warn everyone not to trust a part just because it's new and
shiny. This one came from a major supplier in England.
Mick Vander Ploeg
'57 BN4, almost running.
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From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2003 17:56:47 -0400
Subject: Re: Chrome Platers Recommendation
allen miller bn2/m
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From "Alan Schultz" <alan at andysnet.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2003 20:34:43 -0500
Subject: Convertible Top Installation
Is there some easy way to clip the fabric to the rear inverted channel that
gets screwed to the rain gutter so I don't have to undo the clips. During
restoration it seemed I was always undoing something in order to work on
installations of parts/pieces that should have been installed earlier.Would
like to install the top fabric clips only once if possible.
TIA
Alan HBJ8L/34297 (Aint-it-fun)
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From BN1HealeyFan at aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2003 22:03:55 EDT
Subject: Re: Chrome Platers Recommendation
Lemon Grove Plating
1400 Cleveland Ave.
National City, CA 91950
(619) 474-4424
Bill Scannell
BN-1
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From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2003 21:19:20 -0500
Subject: Help to look at a Healey in El Paso
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2003 23:22:03 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Fuel tank cleaning in CA
__________________________________
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2003 23:32:15 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: "tastefull" engine compartment insulation
__________________________________
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
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From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2003 02:47:00 EDT
Subject: Re: "tastefull" engine compartment insulation
Rick
San Diego
In a message dated 9/1/03 11:35:17 PM, joemulqueen@yahoo.com writes:
> Hello,
> Beyond the extent of the original fiber board
> insulation, anyone have experience adding foil faced
> insulation to visible areas in the engine compartment?
> I'm especially interested in the horseshoe shaped
> surface (near throttle cross rod) surrounding the
> trans bell housing and also the pasenger foot box
> surface facing the oil filter housing. Would it be
> considered tasteful or "foe paw"?
> Thanks for any opinions,
> Joe Mulqueen
> '60 BT7
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From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2003 08:04:55 -0400
Subject: First Start Advice, was "Battery Ground Switch Warning"
Any other "first time starting the engine" stories out there? I'm all ears
at the moment, while I'm trying to get mine fired up. At this point, there's
no fuel or spark, so I have a long way to go. A Facet fuel pump and
voltmeter will be my companions during my day off today.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <mvanderploeg@nc.rr.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2003 6:27 AM
Subject: Re: Battery Ground Switch Warning
> Hi Mick
>
> Also make sure that the earth strap is connected on your engine - to a
> scraped bare metal part of the chassis (rather than a nicely painted
> section.....) - otherwise the engine will try to earth itself either via
the
> accelerator linkage or (more likely) back through the fuel line - and
yep -
> back through the fuel pump!
>
> So as soon as the engine fires - the engine grounds out via the pump body
&
> the engine stops...........
>
> Spent a day working that one out..... whilst I flattened every battery in
> the family....
>
> Chris
> ______________________________________
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From Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
Date: Tue, 02 Sep 2003 05:40:57 -0700
Subject: Re: Vibrating oil pressure needle, fixed!
John Harper wrote:
> Steve
>
> Just for a matter of interest early post war Austins had problems of
> 'knock' which sounded like a mechanical fault and got owners worried.
> This happened when the predecessors of 'our' four cylinder engine were
> fitted to Austin 16s. The change that cured this was to reduce the
> hole in the union which connects the flexible oil pipe to the block
> down to 1/32" diameter. This change carried right through to the 100.
> The part number appears to be different on the six cylinder engine so
> I wonder if this very small diameter hole continued after the 100?
>
> All the best
>
>>
>> A week or so ago, I reported a vibrating oil pressure needle after
>> bleeding
>> the air out of the gauge line in an attempt to get a higher reading
>> on the
>> gauge.
>> I just disconnected the line at the gauge and allowed some air back
>> in, and
>> the needle is steady again. It appears that the air in the line does
>> act as
>> an accumulator to dampen the pressure pulses in the line. Since the
>> pressure
>> is still just below 60 cold, and a hair under 40 hot, I guess I'm
>> happy with
>> that.
>>
>>
>>
>> Happy Healeying!
>>
>> Steve Byers
>> HBJ8L/36666
>> BJ8 Registry
>> Havelock, NC USA
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From Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
Date: Tue, 02 Sep 2003 05:45:23 -0700
Subject: Re: Fuel tank cleaning in CA
May I recommend a fresh tank. I played with mine that way and ended up
with more trouble in the long run.
They can be had for a few hundred dollars.
Tracy
joe mulqueen wrote:
>Hello,
>Anyone know a good shop that'll thoroughly boil out a
>fuel tank in the Los Angeles or San Jose areas?
>Thanks,
>Joe Mulqueen
>'60 BT7
>
>__________________________________
>Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
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From Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
Date: Tue, 02 Sep 2003 05:52:10 -0700
Subject: Re: First Start Advice, was "Battery Ground Switch Warning"
I had a few really radical backfires out that third carb. Pretty wild
when a cylinder fires with the intake valve open.
I also had a heater cable touching the dash light slide switch which
caused some smoke to let go at a stop light the
first time I used those dash lights. Shorted the cable, rerouted,
replaced the 10 inches of fried wire and back in business.
Once I pulled the distributor and spun the dog 180, presto bango, roar.
Mick VanderPloeg wrote:
>Chris, that's a great example of things to watch out for. I'm not sure if
>I'd have found that one in a day.
>
>Any other "first time starting the engine" stories out there? I'm all ears
>at the moment, while I'm trying to get mine fired up. At this point, there's
>no fuel or spark, so I have a long way to go. A Facet fuel pump and
>voltmeter will be my companions during my day off today.
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
>To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <mvanderploeg@nc.rr.com>
>Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2003 6:27 AM
>Subject: Re: Battery Ground Switch Warning
>
>
>
>
>>Hi Mick
>>
>>Also make sure that the earth strap is connected on your engine - to a
>>scraped bare metal part of the chassis (rather than a nicely painted
>>section.....) - otherwise the engine will try to earth itself either via
>>
>>
>the
>
>
>>accelerator linkage or (more likely) back through the fuel line - and
>>
>>
>yep -
>
>
>>back through the fuel pump!
>>
>>So as soon as the engine fires - the engine grounds out via the pump body
>>
>>
>&
>
>
>>the engine stops...........
>>
>>Spent a day working that one out..... whilst I flattened every battery in
>>the family....
>>
>>Chris
>>______________________________________
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From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2003 09:40:22 -0400
Subject: SLR576 lights
I would appreciate any recommendations and caveats about mounting them,
including but not limited to
1. using a new stock badge bar vs drilling them into the bumper apron
directly
if a badge bar, how do you attach the lights; is there a
chrome adapter?
if the apron, any kind of reinforcement?
2. using the vintage wiring - sources for the female recepticles which
receive the nipple tips
3. where to take a hot feed for the driving lights' wiring
how do you bypass the dipswitch ?
do you tie into a wire feeding the 35A fuse?
easy non-destructive location for a switch
ideas for switch (e.g., toggle or use another Lucas pull switch
under dash somewhere)
4. sources for resilvering the reflectors (oh, for the good old days
when real men had mercury in their veins)
5. spacing them relative to the grille and bumper uprights
6. Anything else
Allen Miller '56 BN2/M
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From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2003 12:40:04 EDT
Subject: Re: SLR576 lights
the "Sept '95" pic shows the bar placement:
http://members.aol.com/wilko/story.html
Rick
San Diego
In a message dated 9/2/03 6:44:48 AM, acmiller@mhcable.com writes:
> I would appreciate any recommendations and caveats about mounting them,
> including but not limited to
>
> 1. using a new stock badge bar vs drilling them into the bumper
apron
> directly
> if a badge bar, how do you attach the lights; is there a
> chrome adapter?
> if the apron, any kind of reinforcement?
>
> 2. using the vintage wiring - sources for the female recepticles
> which
> receive the nipple tips
>
> 3. where to take a hot feed for the driving lights' wiring
> how do you bypass the dipswitch ?
> do you tie into a wire feeding the 35A fuse?
> easy non-destructive location for a switch
> ideas for switch (e.g., toggle or use another Lucas pull switch
> under dash somewhere)
>
>
> 4. sources for resilvering the reflectors (oh, for the good old days
> when real men had mercury in their veins)
>
> 5. spacing them relative to the grille and bumper uprights
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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2003 13:24:14 -0500
Subject: Looking for a residential rental in Durango, and or Colorado
Please contact me off list to discuss this if you feel you might have
something of interest.
Thanks in advance,
Brian Collins bc1@sbcglobal.net
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2003 16:52:02 -0400
Subject: Re: "A Car Is Reborn"
James Lea
Rockport Maine
1962 BT7 II
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From BN1HealeyFan at aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2003 17:25:55 EDT
Subject: Re: BMIHT
Bill Scannell
BN-1
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From Bob Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 02 Sep 2003 18:20:22 -0700
Subject: Ed Adams computer is infected. Open no email from him!
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From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2003 18:37:06 EDT
Subject: Re: "A Car Is Reborn"
In a message dated 9/2/03 1:58:12 PM, clocks@midcoast.com writes:
> Bob. I have looked in vain for info on "A Car is Reborn" and can't find
> anything on Discovery. Many times their programs are available on tape but I
> can't find that either. I want to add it to our club library. Do you have
> any other info. Sounds like a program not to miss. Thanks, JL
>
> James Lea
> Rockport Maine
> 1962 BT7 II
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2003 18:59:19 -0400
Subject: Re: Ed Adams computer is infected. Open no email from him!
What it almost certainly does mean is that someone else with that person's
address (e.g., Ed Adams in this case) in THEIR address book is infected.
How to be safe? As has been said before, as many of the following as you can
manage:
1) get behind a firewall, preferably hardware
2) use virus detection software and keep it updated
3) use mail software other than Outlook or OE.
Best regards,
--
John Miller
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From "Ron Fine Esq." <RonFineEsq at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 02 Sep 2003 16:20:12 -0700
Subject: front tow hooks
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From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2003 19:32:22 EDT
Subject: Re: front tow hooks
> I am looking for a source of tow hooks or tie down hooks for the front
> of a BN7. I saw some on a web site but I can't seem to find that site
> again. It offered several types that they manufactured for sale. Does
> anyone know of the site I am looking for or a source?
> Ron
> 61BN7
>
cape-international.com has them, also with lamp mounts.
Bill Bolton may have them too(?)
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2003 19:34:17 EDT
Subject: Re: front tow hooks
> saw some on a web site but I can't seem to find that site
> again. It offered several types that they manufactured for sale. Does
> anyone know of the site I am looking for or a source?
Ron--
Go here: <A
HREF="http://www.wickerizedhealey.com/manparts.htm";>http://www.wickerizedhealey.com/manparts.htm</A>
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2003 20:00:44 -0400
Subject: Re: front tow hooks
My dim recollection is that this came up on the list some time ago, and that
Bill Bolton (TRICARB@aol.com) has them.
I made my own tow/tiedown hooks from some large chain links that I found in a
boating supply shop. I'm not a boater and I don't know what these things are
intended for, but they look like large open chain links (possibly intended to
be bent and welded as links in a chain). One end has an eye that is perfect
fit for the bolt that will screw into the unused holes in the front end of the
frame to attach the hooks. I have used them both to tow my Healey and to tie
it down, and they work well.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Ron Fine Esq.
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2003 7:20 PM
Subject: front tow hooks
I am looking for a source of tow hooks or tie down hooks for the front
of a BN7. I saw some on a web site but I can't seem to find that site
again. It offered several types that they manufactured for sale. Does
anyone know of the site I am looking for or a source?
Ron
61BN7
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2003 17:19:32 -0700
Subject: Re: Ed Adams computer is infected. Open no email from him!
In addition to Norton, my ISP scans for virus, and I get 10 to 25
messages/day from it saying they quarantined a virus laden email...some from
List members
John Snyder
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2003 3:59 PM
Subject: Re: Ed Adams computer is infected. Open no email from him!
> Folks, this doesn't bear spending much time on, but receiving a worm-laden
email "From:" someone in no way means that person's computer is infected.
In fact, there is insufficient information to form any conclusion about
their computer. What it almost certainly does mean is that someone else with
that person's address (e.g., Ed Adams in this case) in THEIR address book
is infected.
>
> How to be safe? As has been said before, as many of the following as you
can manage:
> 1) get behind a firewall, preferably hardware
> 2) use virus detection software and keep it updated
> 3) use mail software other than Outlook or OE.
>
> Best regards,
> --
> John Miller
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From "scott willis" <ahpowered at hotmail.com>
Date: Tue, 02 Sep 2003 19:41:36 -0500
Subject: Dirt and more dirt in mashed car
Hi folks,
Ed was kind enough to post may car on "Special cars...."
Does anyone have a miracle cleaning technique to get the vinyl clean? I have
used Fantastic but I cannot get it clean. It looks a lot better but I was
hoping to not have to replace all those panels in the top stowage area. I
suppose a stiff brush will help. I've got all the glass cleaned up and most
the mold off the seat covers.
Thank for any suggestions
~Scott
_________________________________________________________________
Get MSN 8 and enjoy automatic e-mail virus protection.
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2003 21:18:20 -0400
Subject: Re: Dirt and more dirt in mashed car
This is a little scary, as in try it at your own risk, and then try it first
in an inconspicuous area, but I used to know a used-car dealer who could do
miracles with a rag dampened (NOT wet) with fingernail polish remover.
I had occasion to try it myself on a VW Beetle, and as the project progressed,
I became bolder and bolder with the amount used. I'm satisfied that the risk
of destroying vinyl parts is minimal, but again, please proceed very
carfeully if you decide to try it, including fire and inhalation safety
precautions.
--
John Miller
An idea is not responsible for the people who believe in it.
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2003 21:15:29 -0400
Subject: RE: SLR576 lights
At the risk of being overly repetitive, here's how you might want to do the
installation. I've done this on both mf my Healeys.
Install an SPST (single-pole, single throw) relay with a 12-V coil very
close to the voltage regulator, and put a 35-A circuit breaker just before
the relay contacts. A small SPST toggle switch in the cockpit feeds -12-V
from the blue-white (UW) wire feeding the lamp on the speedo bulb, so that
when the standard lamps are dipped using the footswitch, the feed to the
relay also goes off, thus simultaneously dipping the driving lights. The
other side of the relay goes to chassis ground (+).
The two driving lamps are wired in parallel, with either lamp's return
grounded to the chassis (+). That way there's only one feed to get -12-V
from the relay's output.
I also installed an in-line fuse from the bulb in the speedometer to the
toggle switch, and placed a 3-A fuse in it to protect the switch wiring and
the relay coil.
You can get very small circuit breakers and nice enclosed relays at any
2-way radio shop. Try and find a friendly parts department person or radio
installer. I use a Motorola relay and circuit breaker because they're both
sealed against dust and dirt. However, an open frame relay is also suitable.
Make sure the relay has at least 15-A contacts. If you see a relay that has
two poles (DPST), for example, and each is rated at, say, 5-A, you can
parallel the pair of contacts to give you a higher current-carrying
capability.
Use heavy wiring from the relay to the driving lamps, to ensure a low
voltage drop to the high-current lamps. I use stranded #10 gauge wire that's
glass insulated. It's a tad of overkill, but very nice. Makes a good
installation. You can get it from a fire/burglar alarm installation shop.
While you're at it, get some Nylon hold-down clamps, and be sure to use
grommets at any point where the wiring runs through the firewall or splash
pan.
In the case of the pair of Lucas 576 lamps on my Blue Mainie BT7, the feed
wires come out through the lamp stems so there's no need to put grommets on
the splash pan. On my old BJ8, I had installed Hella lamps and the wiring
for them went through grommets in holes in the front bumper's splash pan.
Try to solder all connections, and be sure to insulate them with high
temperature tape.
If you need a wiring diagram, I'd be happy to send you one if you give me a
fax number to transmit it to.
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
Amateur Radio AI2Q
http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
.-.-.
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From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2003 18:42:33 -0700
Subject: Re: "A Car Is Reborn"
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>; "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2003 1:52 PM
Subject: Re: "A Car Is Reborn"
> Bob. I have looked in vain for info on "A Car is Reborn" and can't find
> anything on Discovery. Many times their programs are available on tape but I
> can't find that either. I want to add it to our club library. Do you have
> any other info. Sounds like a program not to miss. Thanks, JL
>
> James Lea
> Rockport Maine
> 1962 BT7 II
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From "John Soderling" <jsoderling at ca.astound.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2003 19:33:27 -0700
Subject: Steering Columm/Carborator Clearance Help
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2003 12:50:08 +1000
Subject: RE: Steering Columm/Carborator Clearance Help
You could change to right hand drive and you don't have that problem. In my car
the generator sometimes hits on the steering column. Then I could change to an
alternator. Then I would think about a new battery with the posts opposite to
what they are now. Then I could listen to music from a modern CD player instead
of the boring exhaust note.
OR I could change it to left hand drive - but I have heard that sometimes the
steering column hits the rear float bowl. What about a power steering system
from a Lexus? Then the engine, gearbox, seats, independent rear end, front
suspension, body panels, a roof. It goes on and on.
Perhaps I will just go and drive my Healey and put up with the early 1950s
technology.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Saloon (with engine now removed the first time since 1956)
1054 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
-----Original Message-----
From: John Soderling [mailto:jsoderling@ca.astound.net]
Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2003 12:33 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: Steering Columm/Carborator Clearance Help
Help,
My rear carburetor float bowl sits about 1/32" above the steering column. I
can feel through the steering wheel the carburetor hitting the steering column
when the engine vibrates upon first starting the car and when driving rough
road. My engine mounts look good. Looks like there are three possible ways to
increase the separation between the carb and the column.
1.. Raise the left side engine mount. Put a couple of washers under the
chassis engine support bracket? Is there a better or easier way?
2.. Lower the steering column. Looks like it is adjustable at the column
support clamp under the dash - there are four sets of mounting holes in the
steering column bracket. I'm not sure if I lower it here that it will fit the
dash panel hole. Is there any adjustment available in the steering box
mounting to the frame to lower the box 1/4"? Looks like the bracket is
slotted.
3.. Move the carburetor further away from the engine to clear the steering
column by extending the spacing between the carb and the heat shield with
multiple gaskets(?) or between the heat shield and the manifold with an
additional insulating block?
4.. Other ways?
Any suggestions or thoughts. Seems like NO. 2 or 3 would be the easiest.
Thanks for any help.
Vrooom vrooom,
John
100-Six Erika the Red
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From "Jim McDermott" <jmcd206 at msn.com>
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2003 20:20:53 -0700
Subject: Re: front tow hooks
Jim McDermott
BN4
1965 Mustang
----- Original Message -----
From: Ron Fine Esq.
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2003 4:20 PM
Subject: front tow hooks
I am looking for a source of tow hooks or tie down hooks for the front
of a BN7. I saw some on a web site but I can't seem to find that site
again. It offered several types that they manufactured for sale. Does
anyone know of the site I am looking for or a source?
Ron
61BN7
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From CNAArndt at aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2003 23:45:48 EDT
Subject: Re: brass nuts and broken studs
<< The flex pipe on my BJ8 exhaust has "separated" from the pipe in front of
the
muffler. (Well, whose hasn't at some point?) In trying to remove the nuts
form
the studs that hold the pipe to the manifold, first nut came off nicely.
Second wrung off. Third wants to do the same. Liquid Wrench has been used
liberally. Need suggestions as to how to get the rung off stud out, and maybe
even try to keep the third one from wringing off. Tried the archives, must
not
know how to describe the search criteria.
TIA,
Bob Johnson
BJ8 >>
Bob & All,
I looked through my old e-mail on the list and found this technique that I
wrote about several months ago. It works very well and is one of the best
methods I found to remove stubborn exhaust studs
<<The best method of removing an exhaust manifold stud was taught to me some
years ago by a good friend and British car restorer. I've since used this
technique very successfully, most recently on a friends BJ8 manifold, all six
manifold to downpipe studs and two of the long intake to exhaust manifold
bolts,
that broke off when removing them.
All eight very rusty and frozen studs came out without damaging any of the
threads however in every case there was enough of the broken bolt or stud
extending from the manifold to grab with a pair of needle nose locking pliers.
With
two of the bolts this amounted to only 3/16 of an inch or less! If the stud
is broken off flush you'll need to carefully weld an extension on to it, which
is easier said than done.
The simple trick is to heat just the stud or bolt, and not the surrounding
metal, cherry red and then immediately quench the area with a cold water soaked
rag. You will need to use an oxy-acetelene tourch to get sufficient heat to
the area. I then spray a quality penetrating solvent "PB Blaster" or "Kroil"
are two good choices, onto the area. With a quality pair of needle nose
locking pliers, very tightly clamp onto what is remaining of the stud, and like
I
mentioned, I've done this with very little of the stud sticking out. Now very
carefully rock the stud back and forth, maybe only a degree or so, instead of
just trying to unscrew it. Don't force it! If you get any back and forth
movement whatsoever your and business, but be patient, and spray some more
penetrating solvent in as you rock back and forth. Then go back and repeat the
process of heating and then shock cooling the stud as many times as required
until
the stud gets progressively looser. Be patient!
I've had to repeat the process four or five times before the offending stud
finally came out but this technique hasn't failed me yet. Then chase the
treads with a quality tap and install the new stud or bolt with anti-sieze
compound.
Cheers,
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5 :{) >>
In a message dated 10/3/02 8:22:19 PM Pacific Daylight Time, ryan@ledwith.com
writes:
<< I have two studs broken in my exhaust manifold - the ones that go through
the
intake manifold and hold the two together. Two broke and I can't get them
out.
I ended up drilling and tapping another broken bolt -exhaust manifold to
exhaust pipe studs out-- and couldn't back it out. Had to drill it out
entirely and re-tap it. Couldn't get to the original threads.
I first drilled the hole, used lots of liquid wrench, then put in a back-out.
I've turned it pretty far, but the back-out just flexes, and I'd hate to
break
it off.
I've also heated it up hoping the broken stud would expand inward. No luck.
Should I drill out alot if the bolt, or just a small amount? If I have just a
thin part of the bolt left, will it be easier to remove?
If I thought I could easily remove the exhaust manifold studs, I'd replace
them with new ones, as the old ones are pretty worn out. (where could I get
new ones?). But with the lack of luck getting anything out of the manifold,
I'm stuck.
Any ideas?
Ryan
BJ7
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From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2003 00:13:58 EDT
Subject: Re: brass nuts and broken studs
<< If I thought I could easily remove the exhaust manifold studs, I'd replace
them with new ones, as the old ones are pretty worn out. (where could I get
new ones?). But with the lack of luck getting anything out of the manifold,
I'm stuck. >>
Ryan,
If you have to retap the hole to 3/8-24 because you drilled out the 5/16-18
threads the manifold studs may work for you. Maybe a tight fit for the nut to
pipe.
You can see some of the stainless steel studs I manufacture at <A
HREF="www.dunritetool.com">dunritetool.com</A> under Healey Products.
Good luck
Don
NTAHC
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2003 22:07:09 -0700
Subject: Re: Dirt and more dirt in mashed car
The label warns to use with caution on any type of rubber, plastic, asphalt
tile, linoleum or synthetic fabric. Acetone may soften or dissolve these
surfaces. Softens most paints and clear finishes.
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2003 6:18 PM
Subject: Re: Dirt and more dirt in mashed car
> On Tuesday, September 02, 2003 20:41, scott willis wrote:
> > Does anyone have a miracle cleaning technique to get the vinyl clean? I
> > have used Fantastic but I cannot get it clean. It looks a lot better but
I
> > was hoping to not have to replace all those panels in the top stowage
area.
> > I suppose a stiff brush will help. I've got all the glass cleaned up and
> > most the mold off the seat covers.
>
> This is a little scary, as in try it at your own risk, and then try it
first
> in an inconspicuous area, but I used to know a used-car dealer who could
do
> miracles with a rag dampened (NOT wet) with fingernail polish remover.
>
> I had occasion to try it myself on a VW Beetle, and as the project
progressed,
> I became bolder and bolder with the amount used. I'm satisfied that the
risk
> of destroying vinyl parts is minimal, but again, please proceed very
> carfeully if you decide to try it, including fire and inhalation safety
> precautions.
>
> --
> John Miller
>
> An idea is not responsible for the people who believe in it.
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From "M Lempert" <mlempert at bellsouth.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2003 01:32:28 -0400
Subject: Re: Dirt and more dirt in mashed car
Finally - having nothing to lose - I bought a spray can of blue SEM vinyl dye
from Eastwood. I also bought their cleaner/prep spray (which also didn't
remove any grime). I theorized if the dirt wouldn't come off with the
cleaners, it shouldn't be a problem under the dye.
The color sprays on very easily and covers in one coat (although two are
recommended). It worked great ! It looks like a newly applied vinyl cover.
The dark blue they sell is an exact (or closer than I can tell) match for the
original blue. It looks from the picture that your BN7 also has the blue
interior.
FYI, I used some of the remainder dye to color the black Armacord I purchased
for the rear areas. Great results.
Regards,
Mike Lempert
Charleston, SC
'56 BN2
'59 BN7
'60 Bugeye
'67 Mustang
'70 E-Type
'79 Midget
>Does anyone have a miracle cleaning technique to get the vinyl clean? I have
>used Fantastic but I cannot get it clean.......
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From Ronald Fine <ronfineesq at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 02 Sep 2003 23:23:34 -0700
Subject: Thanks for Tow Hooks info
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2003 22:00:54 -0500
Subject: Re: BMIHT
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From ggilliam at usol.com
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2003 04:55:14 EST
Subject: Re: BMIHT
I have looked through the shop manuals, the Nock photo set and
the various catalogs, but I don't see a good view of where the
mounting tabs secure to on the vacuum line to the distributor on my
BN4 47704.
Please advise.
Thanks,
Gordy
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From "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble at intel.com>
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2003 08:10:59 -0400
Subject: RE: BMIHT
Fred
-----Original Message-----
From: Jerry Wall [mailto:jwbn6@iopener.net]
Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2003 11:01 PM
To: Scheuble, Fred; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: BMIHT
fred,
sorry, however, i disagree with you entirely. in the majority of the states, a
healey is titled with the car #. the engine number plays no part at all in the
titling process. now, if, for some obscure reason, the car has been titled
with an engine # because it has no firewall plate, that's a horse of another
colour.
in my mind, it would be more fraudulent to have a supposed build certificate
modified to reflect it has an engine # which was not part of it's original
manufacture unless it states "not original engine number".
cheers,
jerry
Scheuble, Fred wrote:
>
> that is fraudulent.....
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jerry Wall [mailto:jwbn6@iopener.net]
> Sent: Saturday, August 30, 2003 7:16 AM
> To: BN1HealeyFan@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: BMIHT
>
>
> why don't you put your bn1 engine # on your bn2 engine ? your bn1 cert will
>now
> correctly represent your car. your car did not come as you would like BMIHT
>to
> say it did. for them to do so would be a travesty of their purpose.
> BN1HealeyFan@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > Does anyone know how to get British Motor Industry Heritage Trust to
>correct
> > an incorrect certificate? I paid to get the history of my BN-1. It's had an
> > engine swap somewhere along the line and now has a BN-2 engine. I explained
> > this
> > on my application, giving them all the serial numbers on the car: engine,
> > chassis, body. What they sent me was a record of the BN-2 which originally
> > had
> > my engine. I have e-mailed them twice, pointing out this error and asked
>for a
> > correct certificate based on the chassis and body serial numbers. I have
>not
> > gotten an answer to either inquiry.
> >
> > Any suggestions on how to proceed?
> >
> > Bill Scannell
> > BN-1
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From Tom Sly <tsly at primelinksolutions.com>
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2003 08:56:00 -0400
Subject: Steering wheel removal
Tom Sly
58-100-6 Blue over White
tsly@primelinksolutions.com
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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2003 08:52:44 -0500
Subject: Looking for a Residential Realtor in Durango and Colorado
Brian Collins
Dallas, TX
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From Rick Neves <Rick at genomictechnologies.com>
Date: Wed, 03 Sep 2003 10:58:15 -0400
Subject: Need some torque settings
I know both these connections have locking tab washers but I just wanted
to get the setting correct. I couldn't find it in any of the manuals I have.
Thanks
Rick Neves
'56 BN-2
<http://neves.millis.ma.us>
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From m.brouillette at comcast.net
Date: Wed, 03 Sep 2003 15:02:17 +0000
Subject: Re: Steering wheel removal
I just went thru this and here is what I did. I first used
penetrating oil from top side of clamping nut (have rags underneath to catch
the drips). I let it soak for a couple days rotating the wheel so it was
soaking in all sides.
I then got myself a pair of adjustable pipe pliers that had a mouth wide
enough to wrap arount the nut comfortably, wrapped a towel around the nut and
worked it slowly. I would rock it from tight to loose till it finally
loostened up and it did finally. Just don't rush it cause I've found no one
that manufactures the nut...
Mike Brouillette
59 BT7
> I am wanting to re-vinyl my dash. I assume I need to remove the steering
> wheel to do that (the steering wheel is in bad shape and will be replaced at
> some point). anyway, I am trying to loosen the clamping nut. I reviewed the
> archives and note that the nut is loosened by turning clockwise so I think I
> am turning in the correct direction. I worked on it for 3 hours with various
> wrenches and oils but still no luck. I assume the threads are inside the
> steering tube and I can't figure a good way to get P-oil in. I'm a concerned
> that the clamping nut is an NA replacement part. If it was destroyed, does
> the Moss steering wheel replacement come with a clamping nut ? I drilled
> some 1/32" pilot holes into the shoulder of the nut and am dribbling oil in
> but I cant tell if it will do any good. Thanks in advance, any advice will
> be greatly appreciated.
>
> Tom Sly
> 58-100-6 Blue over White
> tsly@primelinksolutions.com
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From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2003 11:52:50 EDT
Subject: Viruses
<< How to be safe? As has been said before, as many of the following as you
can
manage:
1) get behind a firewall, preferably hardware
2) use virus detection software and keep it updated
3) use mail software other than Outlook or OE.
>>
echoing the note that the "from" address tells you nothing about where the
virus actually originated -- in fact, that's one of the nefarious
characteristics of this virus; it adopts an address from the email box and uses
that to
conceal the real originating address.
and, to prevent 99% of all virus problems
4) convert to an Apple computer.
cheers
gary
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From "Greg Wilkinson" <gregwilkinson at adelphia.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2003 09:01:45 -0700
Subject: RE: "A Car Is Reborn"
> -----Original Message-----
>
> Bob. I have looked in vain for info on "A Car is Reborn" and can't find
> anything on Discovery. Many times their programs are available on
> tape but I
> can't find that either. I want to add it to our club library. Do you have
> any other info. Sounds like a program not to miss. Thanks, JL
>
> James Lea
> Rockport Maine
> 1962 BT7 II
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From TBanks at LEVI.com
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2003 09:59:51 -0700
Subject: Touring problems
One was over heating - not normally a prob in UK - but 32 degrees Celsius
(90 F) on the London Orbital Motorway! I refilled the rad with 50/50
water/antifreeze last winter - maybe the mix is too rich? Also I only have
a ten inch electric fan and standard 4 blade mech fan so some upgrades can
be done there.
The main problem I had was with the engine missing while accelerating
heavily. Idling is fine, cruising at high speed is fine, it's just when you
put your foot down hard the engine misfires ( and occasionally gives a
backfire through the carbs). Dashpots have been topped up with oil. I was
wondering if this might be fuel supply problems. That fact that these
symptoms only occur once the car is well and truly warmed up suggest it
might be fuel vaporising? Maybe heat shield renewal would help? Any other
suggestions?
The only other problem was an intermittent failure of the starter motor.
Big clunk from the solenoid but no turn over - battery is good so I think
I'll start with checking the electrical connections, but if they check out
okay what might be my next step?
Tom Banks
Belgium
'64 BJ8
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2003 11:18:53 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: battery cable gage
__________________________________
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
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From "ukhealey_GRADWELL" <enquiries at ukhealey.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2003 19:28:06 +0100
Subject: Re: Touring problems
Cheers.
Steve Jowett UK HEALEY
AUSTIN HEALEY - MG - TRIUMPH - JAGUAR
ASTON MARTIN
www.ukhealey.co.uk
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From BN1HealeyFan at aol.com
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2003 15:35:21 EDT
Subject: Re: battery cable gage
Bill Scannell
BN-1
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2003 12:46:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: battery cable gage
--- BN1HealeyFan@aol.com wrote:
> When I redid my BN-1, I bought the heaviest wire I
> could find. I believe it
> was 0 or 1 gage.
>
> Bill Scannell
> BN-1
>
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From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2003 14:57:40 -0500
Subject: Re: battery cable gage
----- Original Message -----
From: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>
To: <BN1HealeyFan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2003 2:46 PM
Subject: Re: battery cable gage
> Hmmm. Now those are definitely too big for the cable
> clamps! But more seriously, do Healeys have problems
> runnning the stock 2-4 (which ever it is) gage wire?
> Thanks,
> Joe Mulqueen
> '60 BT7
>
> --- BN1HealeyFan@aol.com wrote:
> > When I redid my BN-1, I bought the heaviest wire I
> > could find. I believe it
> > was 0 or 1 gage.
> >
> > Bill Scannell
> > BN-1
> >
>
>
> __________________________________
> Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
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From "Esko & Megan Cate" <enmcate at comcast.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2003 13:18:03 -0700
Subject: RE: Convertible Top Installation
Just got done with installing a top on a BJ7. Not an expert, have just
done the one but, I started at the other end, the back. It took several
tries to get the right amount of turn under at the inverted channel to
make the back fabric tight. For example, near the ends of the windows,
more fabric needed to be turned under to take out the slack there. Took
several tries at that before securing the fabric at the verticals, had
the inverted channel out, clipped fabric to it and set the channel in
roughly to see how the fabric lay. This was an old model top (I bought
it about 12 years ago) so a newer one might be cut better and fit
easier. However, I believe doing the back first gives the best
flexibility in working with that channel. Best of luck on your project.
Esko
BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Alan Schultz
Sent: Monday, September 01, 2003 6:35 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Convertible Top Installation
I am installing all new parts and fabric for the convertible top for a
BJ8. I
have gotten as far as intially fastening the fabric flaps to the
vertical
window wood located at the shut pillar. I think the next step is to
stretch
the fabric and staple to the front bow but am not certain that this is
the
next step. Can someone confirm that this is the next step?
Is there some easy way to clip the fabric to the rear inverted channel
that
gets screwed to the rain gutter so I don't have to undo the clips.
During
restoration it seemed I was always undoing something in order to work on
installations of parts/pieces that should have been installed
earlier.Would
like to install the top fabric clips only once if possible.
TIA
Alan HBJ8L/34297 (Aint-it-fun)
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From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2003 15:44:36 -0500
Subject: Re: BMIHT
read it and weep!
HoYo
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <fred.scheuble@intel.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2003 10:00 PM
Subject: Re: BMIHT
> fred,
> sorry, however, i disagree with you entirely. in the majority of the
states, a healey is titled with the car #. the engine number plays no part
at all in the titling process. now, if, for some obscure reason, the car
has been titled with an engine # because it has no firewall plate, that's a
horse of another colour.
> in my mind, it would be more fraudulent to have a supposed build
certificate modified to reflect it has an engine # which was not part of
it's original manufacture unless it states "not original engine number".
> cheers,
> jerry
> Scheuble, Fred wrote:
> >
> > that is fraudulent.....
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Jerry Wall [mailto:jwbn6@iopener.net]
> > Sent: Saturday, August 30, 2003 7:16 AM
> > To: BN1HealeyFan@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: BMIHT
> >
> >
> > why don't you put your bn1 engine # on your bn2 engine ? your bn1 cert
will now
> > correctly represent your car. your car did not come as you would like
BMIHT to
> > say it did. for them to do so would be a travesty of their purpose.
> > BN1HealeyFan@aol.com wrote:
> > >
> > > Does anyone know how to get British Motor Industry Heritage Trust to
correct
> > > an incorrect certificate? I paid to get the history of my BN-1. It's
had an
> > > engine swap somewhere along the line and now has a BN-2 engine. I
explained
> > > this
> > > on my application, giving them all the serial numbers on the car:
engine,
> > > chassis, body. What they sent me was a record of the BN-2 which
originally
> > > had
> > > my engine. I have e-mailed them twice, pointing out this error and
asked for a
> > > correct certificate based on the chassis and body serial numbers. I
have not
> > > gotten an answer to either inquiry.
> > >
> > > Any suggestions on how to proceed?
> > >
> > > Bill Scannell
> > > BN-1
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From Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2003 18:38:01 -0700
Subject: Torque settings
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From Tomsimkins at aol.com
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2003 21:41:33 EDT
Subject: Rotisserie
I'm about finished making a rotisserie so I can finally get serious on
putting in some time on the Healey.
I made it so that it attaches to the bumper mounting holes on each end. But
now, I'm having second thoughts on the strength of the rear frame area. It not
rotted out and doesn't appear to be any weaker than as new. But the frame
rails certainly don't look very robust for hanging the weight of the chassis.
Does anyone have any experience with this?
Will it hurt the frame to be suspended for long periods of time by the bumper
mounts rather than supported by jack stands?
Thanks in advance,
Tom Simkins
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2003 21:18:30 -0500
Subject: Re: BMIHT
If you key off the VIN or chassis number the certificate would serve its
purpose, if you cross referenced cert. and engine number, cert. would show
wrong motor in car.
Happy Healying
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
----- Original Message ----- >
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From "scott willis" <ahpowered at hotmail.com>
Date: Wed, 03 Sep 2003 21:53:57 -0500
Subject: What tires for Healeys?
Cheers
Scott
60 BN7
59 MGA
73 T140
78 Murray 36"
_________________________________________________________________
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From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Thu, 04 Sep 2003 10:53:00 -0500
Subject: London Calling
Thank you to those in Germany and Austria that responded with info. I look
forward to meeting some of you in a few weeks and having a chance to put a
face to a name (at least an email address).
In the meantime, I just found yesterday that I am also London bound. I will
be arriving on Saturday September 13 and staying through the 20th. I would
appreciate any suggestions for must-see sights and possiblly Healey or other
Brit marque meets during that time. As a point of reference, I will be
staying near Aldwych & the Waterloo Bridge. Sites and events relative to
that location is greatly appreciated.
I would also be interested in lifting a pint or two if anyone is interested.
Please contact me off list with your thoughts.
Cheers,
Carlos "Figuring-Out-What-To-Pack Cruz
_________________________________________________________________
Use custom emotions -- try MSN Messenger 6.0!
http://www.msnmessenger-download.com/tracking/reach_emoticon
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2003 18:53:56 +0100
Subject: Can you see the AHC (UK) web site?
Now I get 'server not found', so I have to wait for the new DNS details
to propagate into my ISP before I can see my own site!!
Can anyone (not with Demon) confirm that they can see our site? Until I
can see it I'm afraid the Web Forum will be down, because I don't want
to set this up while I can't see and test it.
Any feedback appreciated.
--
Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
Webmaster for the UK's national Austin Healey Club at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
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From "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt at starpower.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2003 14:27:34 -0400
Subject: Test only - delete
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2003 14:45:55 -0400
Subject: Reserve price -- VW-based Healey look-alike
"The Right Honorable Gentleman is indebted to his memory for his jests and to
his imagination for his facts."
-Sheridan
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From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 04 Sep 2003 12:11:42 -0700
Subject: Test Only
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2003 21:02:57 +0100
Subject: UK AHC web site - thanks for all the feedback! You can stop
Thanks to all those who responded - as a consequence I don't need any
more feedback!
Great list.
--
Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
Webmaster for the UK's national Austin Healey Club at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2003 17:15:48 -0400
Subject: Trophies.
James Lea
Rockport Maine
1962 BT7 II
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2003 17:21:00 -0500
Subject: Re: Can you see the AHC (UK) web site?
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From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2003 19:31:28 -0500
Subject: Re: Palo Alto All British Show
The Palo Alto All British Show is listed at:
http://users.arczip.com/zntech/events.html for the 13th and 14th of
September.
You might try contacting Rick Feibusch at: rfeibusch1@earthlink.net
Scott Helms
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Golden" <jlgolden@comcast.net>
To: <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2003 7:51 AM
Subject: Palo Alto All British Show
> Does anyone know if the Palo Alto All British Show is still on for
9/13-14?
> I would like to attend, but I haven't heard anything about it recently.
>
> *** http://www.team.net/the-local ***
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From "Ron Davies" <rdavies1 at cox.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2003 19:43:43 -0700
Subject: car show SoCal
There is a shopping center in south Newport Beach called Crystal Cove
Promenade. Nice view of the ocean.
About 8 months ago, four 55 Chevys went there to have coffee at the
Starbuck's.
I happened to be driving down Pacific Coast Highway with a buddy in his 55
Chevy so he had to stop and talk. We all decided to meet the next Saturday
at 8:30. There were about ten 50s muscle cars and my 67 BJ8.
Eight months later if you want a nice spot you have to show up at 6am as
there are up to 400 classic cars. Multi-million dollar jobs are now common.
True museum pieces as they are brought out from museums. Most of the heavy
metal from the Huntington Beach Donut Shop drop by. We usually pull in 4 or
5 big Healeys and the crowd loves them, of course.
The locals in Newport have authentic restored racers from the 30s to 60s
that they bring by. One was valued at over seven $million.
Well, Meguiar saw it and has decided to film Saturday 9-20-03 for his cable
show on the Speed Channel. I probably wouldn't have put this on the list but
since they handed out a color flyer to announce it the cat is out of the bag
anyway. Probably need to be there at 0400 for a prime spot but any listers
within driving distance who want to see some fine cars from 1910-70's might
like to drop by, maybe be on TV. You can find the spot by doing a Yahoo
search for Starbucks at Crystal Cove Promenade.
Ron O. Davies
67 BJ8
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2003 23:36:05 -0700
Subject: Blonde joke
Keith Pennell
Tiger Puzzle
> >
> >A blonde calls her boyfriend and says, "Please
> >come over here and help me.....I have a killer
> >jigsaw puzzle, and I can't figure out how to get
> >it started". Her boyfriend asks, "What is it
> >supposed to be when it's finished"? The blonde
> >says, "According to the picture on the box, it's
> >a tiger." Her boyfriend decides to go over and
> >help with the puzzle. She lets him in and shows
> >him where she has the puzzle spread all over the
> >table. He studies the pieces for a moment, then
> >looks at the box, then turns to her and says,
> >"First of all, no matter what we do, we're not
> >going to be able to assemble these pieces into
> >anything resembling a tiger". He held her hand
> >and said, "Second, I'd advise you to relax. Let's
> >have a cup of coffee, then ..........." he sighed,
> >"let's put all these Frosted Flakes back in the
> >box."
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From "Kent McLean" <kentmclean at mindspring.com>
Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2003 06:52:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Can you see the AHC (UK) web site?
I just checked, and now I need an English-to-American
translation, please. One of the topics listed "Noggin
and Natters", a phrase with which I am not familiar.
Would you be so kind as to enlighten us colonials?
Thank you,
Kent
'56 100 BN2
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From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 05 Sep 2003 04:04:39 -0700
Subject: Dash Gauge
Terry Blubaugh
'60 BT7 Old English White
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2003 12:40:47 +0100
Subject: Re: Can you see the AHC (UK) web site?
Divided by a common language, eh!?
'Noggin' is an ancient measure of liquid (even older than the pint!),
used to measure ale (beer?), mead (wine made from fermented honey), etc
etc.
To 'natter' or to 'have a natter' is to talk socially in a group, about
everything in general and nothing in particular.
So, "Noggin and Natters" is a get-together in a bar with a few buddies
and a few beers, to talk about the impact of Austin Healeys on the 21st
Century world economics and global peace.
In line with the desire not to lose our driving licences, most of us
take just one pint of bitter, then move on to Coca-colas for the rest of
the evening!
Hope that helps. As a phrase it's not used elsewhere to my knowledge
(one of our chaps must have coined it decades ago), but over here we all
know what it means. I'm sure you all do the same under a different name!
--
Alan F Cross
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From "Jack Feldman" <qualitas at millenicom.com>
Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2003 09:29:55 -0500
Subject: BMIHT/ENGIN NUMBERS
Could this have happened to Healeys?
Jack
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From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (Richard Feibusch)
Date: Fri, 05 Sep 2003 08:08:32 -0700
Subject: LAST CALL - PALO ALTO ALL BRITISH MEET
------------------------------------------------
THE PALO ALTO BRITISH CAR MEET
SEPTEMBER 13th & 14th, 2003
Once again, be part of the biggest British automotive lawn event in
California. Over six hundred classic, quirky and thoroughly lovable British
cars are expected to fill the field at El Camino Park for the 24th Annual
Palo Alto British Car Meet.
-----------------------------------------------
SUNDAY SHOW - SEPTEMBER 14th
Join us for the Best All British Car Show In The West! Don't have a show
car? Don't worry! Daily drivers, vintage racers, street rods &
works-in-progress are as welcome as concours quality show cars. Great
British food, jazz, new parts, literature, toys, gifts and more fun than
you'll be able to tolerate! People's Choice awards in six classes. Join
your British car friends for a smashing day at the park.
Cars will be placed on the field, by marque, at about 9:00AM, and the fun
goes on all day. The registration fee is $25 per car at the gate. There
is no preregistration. All participants will receive a commemorative gift.
Spectators park and attend free.
Again this year we will be visited by the Arcane Auto Society and their
wonderful, whimsical cars from around the world. Last year, this was one of
our more popular new features and there is no reason why their display will
not be bigger and more unusual for 2003!
----------------------------------------------
SATURDAY TOUR - SEPTEMBER 13th The British Car Meet Tour To The Sea
starts at El Camino Park in Palo Alto - the same place as the Sunday Car
Show. This is a no-cost option for people who like to drive their cars as
well as show them. It will also be open to the Arcane Auto owners. We will
be sending cars off between 9:00AM and 10:00AM. Don't be late! The event
will end at Cameron's Pub in Half Moon Bay where we will be kicking tyres
and telling tall tales in the car park into the afternoon.
----------------------------------------------
DIRECTIONS El Camino Park is located on the El Camino Real, just north of
University Avenue, opposite Stanford Center. From 101 take University Ave
west, go under the Alma Street overpass, and turn right onto the El Camino
Real. From 280, take the Sandhill Road Exit east and turn right on the El
Camino, stay to the right to the University Ave exit, turn left at the
overpass, then left again back onto the El Camino heading north. PLEASE, DO
NOT PARK TRAILERS IN THE STANFORD CENTER PARKING LOT! Trailer parking will
be available on-site on the south field.
---------------------------------------------
ACCOMIDOTIONS
Many of you have been calling to find out about reasonable accomodations
near the event. I contacted the Palo Alto Chamber of Commerce and they sent
me a long list. There are fancier digs and places that are less near to
the park. You may call or email us witk YOUR FAX NUMBER and we would be
happy to fax the whole list.
Phone: 310-392-6605
e-mail:"Britmeet 2002"<rfeibusch1@earthlink.net>
Thanks for all of your interest and hope to see you there!
Hotel California
650-322-7666
Mermaid Inn
650-323-9481
Coronet Motel
650-326-0181
Days Inn
650-493-4222
Super 8
650-493-9085
Townhouse Inn
650-493-4492
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From Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2003 12:43:26 -0400
Subject: Choke
The archives does not hold much info on the choke control and techniques
for using it. Some cars I know are more cold blooded than others. For
example,the owners manual of the BJ8 states it is better to start driving
right away(with some choke in) rather than let the car cold idle with full
choke. Faster warm-up being the better choice.
Some questions come to mind. First, how do you know when your choke is
properly adjusted and what is the best way to do this? Second,what idle
speed should you see the first few seconds with full choke when the engine
is "cold soaked"?
Lastly, how do you all "play" the choke as the engine is warming up?
Scot
'66 BJ8
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2003 13:41:57 -0400
Subject: Re: Choke
Adjustment: When the knob is pushed in all the way, there should be just a bit
of "slack" in the linkage; when it is pulled out all the way, the choke
levers on the carbs should be at the end of their travel, having reached that
point simultaneously. Regrettably, I can't give you a number for fully
choked idle speed, having always set it by ear to "adequate, but not
frightening." If I had to guess, I'd say a max of 2500 rpm, but please
consider that subject to correction.
"Playing" the choke -- more art than science, really...
First. on a hot day, you may need hardly any choke, while on a cold day,
you'll need it pulled out all the way for starting.
Should be unnecessary to mention, but having observed all kinds of drivers, it
has to be said: When the engine is warm, you don't need any choke for
starting.
Once the engine starts, you can push the choke in a bit until the engine
stumbles, then pull it back out to where the stumbling stops.
If, when you try to accelerate, the engine stumbles, pull a bit more choke.
As the engnie warms, keep pushing the choke in to the greatest extent possible
consistent with the engine not stumbling.
It will soon become second nature.
Happy motoring,
--
John Miller, who acquired his first automatic choke 10 years after getting a
driver's license
Human beings were created by water to transport it uphill.
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From Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2003 10:45:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: thermostat for bj8
__________________________________
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
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From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2003 14:08:10 EDT
Subject: Re: Choke
> First, how do you know when your choke is
> properly adjusted and what is the best way to do this? Second,what idle
> speed should you see the first few seconds with full choke when the engine
> is "cold soaked"?
> Lastly, how do you all "play" the choke as the engine is warming up?
>
On many Healeys, the "choke" is actually two things. A mixture adjustment,
and a true throttle choke. Part of the motion moves the jet position and the
max
motion moves the throttle plate. Many cars are adjusted wrong so that all
choke motion moves the throttle plate as well.
On HD's the choke is best adjusted by having the carbs mixture adjusted
properly first. The choke cable is adjusted so that in the "in" position the
linkage is almost slack, then pulling it out will lower the jet allowing for
richer
mixture. As the cable is pulled to maximum the actual "choke", or throttle
should open slightly, allowing for more air.
The earlier manuals say to start the engine with the choke pulled out all the
way, then as soon as it runs, to move it to the middle poosition, then soon
after to return to off. that's because if you leave it out you'll be running
too rich.
Rick
San Diego
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
Date: Fri, 05 Sep 2003 12:44:28 -0600
Subject: Re: Choke
I don't know how "lively" the topic may be. Considering all of the
possible carb & choke adjustments out there I doubt if there is a
"standard" way. I guess that you would adjust things to suit yourself.
My carb jets are adjusted slightly on the rich side. I start with full
choke & immediately back off the control to a fast idle of around 1500
rpm. After about 20 seconds the control goes all of the way off & I just
drive away. Car lives in a semi heated garage.
Dave Russell
BN2
Scot Paulson wrote:
> I have not seen a lot of messages on the list the last few days so thought
> it was time for another "lively" discussion!
>
> The archives does not hold much info on the choke control and techniques
> for using it. Some cars I know are more cold blooded than others. For
> example,the owners manual of the BJ8 states it is better to start driving
> right away(with some choke in) rather than let the car cold idle with full
> choke. Faster warm-up being the better choice.
> Some questions come to mind. First, how do you know when your choke is
> properly adjusted and what is the best way to do this? Second,what idle
> speed should you see the first few seconds with full choke when the engine
> is "cold soaked"?
> Lastly, how do you all "play" the choke as the engine is warming up?
>
>
> Scot
> '66 BJ8
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
Date: Fri, 05 Sep 2003 12:52:28 -0600
Subject: BN1 & BN2 compression readings
What are the typical compression tester readings that you see on these
engines. Both with stock low compression, standard cam & with Lemans cam
& pistons.
Thanks for the info,
Dave Russell
BN2
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From "David" <dcrawfor at san.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2003 13:11:50 -0700
Subject: Re: BN1 & BN2 compression readings
Response: My '54 BN-1 is stock and has 105, 110, 105, and 125 - with some (?)
miles on the engine since it was rebuilt. It still has lots of get-up-and-go
* no smoke or stutter.
David Crawford
San Diego
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave & Marlene
To: Healey list
Sent: Friday, September 05, 2003 11:52 AM
Subject: BN1 & BN2 compression readings
For the Hundred Four owners or those with experience.
What are the typical compression tester readings that you see on these
engines. Both with stock low compression, standard cam & with Lemans cam
& pistons.
Thanks for the info,
Dave Russell
BN2
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From David Woerpel <dwoerpel at wi.net>
Date: Fri, 05 Sep 2003 16:39:14 -0500
Subject: 100-4 spotted...
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From BN1HealeyFan at aol.com
Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2003 17:39:52 EDT
Subject: Re: BMIHT/ENGIN NUMBERS
Bill Scannell
BN-1
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From BN1HealeyFan at aol.com
Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2003 17:42:31 EDT
Subject: Re: Choke
BIll Scannell
BN-1
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From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2003 17:57:04 -0400
Subject: Re: BN1 & BN2 compression readings
If you have a 7.5 standard piston setup, the same method would predict
compression readings hovering around 110#.
Allen Miller '56 BN2/M
-------------------------------
On computing compression ratio:
I've run this by several knowledgeable people, all of whom immediately
indicate I'm cracked. Notwithstanding, I still think that, at least on the
first order, the compression ratio of your car can be calculated using
Boyle's Law (P1V1=P2V2).
Assuming you are at sea level on a day with neutral barometric pressure the
air above you weighs 14.7 pounds per square inch (1 "atmosphere"). In this
ideal case, when you compress the piston's air volume to TDC, the pressure
reading divided by 14.7 would represent the compression ratio.
If you are at higher elevation (e..g, Denver), the issue is a little more
complex. The air is less dense, and not accurately represented by an ambient
air pressure of 14.7psi. Since the compression ratio calculation is made
using uncompressed local air and the same air being compressed N-fold,
the divisor is not properly 14.7, but 14.7 adjusted up or down by the ratios
of your pressure to sea-level pressure:
{direct barometric reading in millibars} / 1013.5 or {direct reading
in inches mercury}/ 29.92
A mistake to avoid is relying on local weather station data, as the 'local'
reading may have already
been adjusted to sea level to compensate for your area's elevation. If you
have to rely on the local
station reading, a further elevational adjustment may be necessary to get
the equivalent 'unadjusted'
value. To get the 'raw' barometric pressure, subtract 1" of mercury from the
adjusted (sea level) barometric reading for every 1000 feet of elevation. I
believe the compensation in milibars is 1 milibar
for every 8 meters of elevation.
Applying these adjustments respectively, the compression ratio should be on
the order of:
R~ 0.0145 * [Compression reading (#)] / [Local "raw" reading
(millibars)]
R ~ 2.0354 * [Compression reading (#)] / [Local "raw" reading (Hg)].
Using the 2nd formula, on the day of our test, the barometer read 30.01".
Applying the formula to an average compression reading of 133#, the ratio
worked out to be 9.02:1.
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From "Kent McLean" <kentmclean at mindspring.com>
Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2003 18:52:29 -0400
Subject: Re: Can you see the AHC (UK) web site?
Thank you, kind sir.
Kent
'56 100 BN2
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From Healeyguy at aol.com
Date: Fri, 05 Sep 2003 19:15:27 -0400
Subject: Re: MGTD Running Temperature (a bit Healey related)
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2003 19:30:37 -0400
Subject: Re: BN1 & BN2 compression readings
Is there not a chance that due to the intake mechanics (pressure drop
created by the piston 'falling'), the gas mix characteristics (air and fuel)
and the temperature change (gas mix heated while entering the cylinder), the
actual (absolute) pressure in the cylinder is not exactly equal to the
barometric pressure?
I fully agree that your method is the best, easiest way to get a grip on
compression and I love the simplicity. Has anyone tested your theory by
checking compression at sea level then checking again at some measurably
different altitude. I'm thinking of a test in San Diego, then up in the
mountains and then again near El Centro (a bit below sea level). This would
make for a rather nice drive as well, as I remember it (except this time of
year once over the mountains).
CB
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2003 19:38:39 -0400
Subject: Re: Can you see the AHC (UK) web site?
CB
ps: Apologies to those not willing, able or perverse enough to remember!
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From "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK at peoplepc.com>
Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2003 20:21:32 -0400
Subject: Re: BN1 & BN2 compression readings
I am getting 120psi (at close to sea level) on all cylinders with 100M
pistons and cam at about 8.3:1 (I think). Fairly close to your prediction
calculated at 8.16:1 but there has to be a correction for volumetric or
pumping efficiency, that is the cylinder does not completely fill to
atmospheric pressure due to valve timing, friction etc.
regards,
Peter Davis
----- Original Message -----
From: Allen C Miller, Jr. <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>; Healey list
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 05, 2003 5:57 PM
Subject: Re: BN1 & BN2 compression readings
> Our readings on original type shallow dish pistons (8.5:1?)
> are between 130# and 138# (average=133#) with a brand new calibrated
> (threaded-in type) compression guage. This approximates to about 9:1
> compression using assumptions in the footnote, which is consistent with
> 8.5:1 shallow-dish M pistons on a head that has been planed by a
> whisker or two (or twenty).
>
> If you have a 7.5 standard piston setup, the same method would predict
> compression readings hovering around 110#.
>
> Allen Miller '56 BN2/M
> -------------------------------
> On computing compression ratio:
>
> I've run this by several knowledgeable people, all of whom immediately
> indicate I'm cracked. Notwithstanding, I still think that, at least on the
> first order, the compression ratio of your car can be calculated using
> Boyle's Law (P1V1=P2V2).
>
> Assuming you are at sea level on a day with neutral barometric pressure
the
> air above you weighs 14.7 pounds per square inch (1 "atmosphere"). In this
> ideal case, when you compress the piston's air volume to TDC, the pressure
> reading divided by 14.7 would represent the compression ratio.
>
> If you are at higher elevation (e..g, Denver), the issue is a little more
> complex. The air is less dense, and not accurately represented by an
ambient
> air pressure of 14.7psi. Since the compression ratio calculation is made
> using uncompressed local air and the same air being compressed N-fold,
> the divisor is not properly 14.7, but 14.7 adjusted up or down by the
ratios
> of your pressure to sea-level pressure:
>
> {direct barometric reading in millibars} / 1013.5 or {direct reading
> in inches mercury}/ 29.92
>
> A mistake to avoid is relying on local weather station data, as the
'local'
> reading may have already
> been adjusted to sea level to compensate for your area's elevation. If you
> have to rely on the local
> station reading, a further elevational adjustment may be necessary to get
> the equivalent 'unadjusted'
> value. To get the 'raw' barometric pressure, subtract 1" of mercury from
the
> adjusted (sea level) barometric reading for every 1000 feet of elevation.
I
> believe the compensation in milibars is 1 milibar
> for every 8 meters of elevation.
>
> Applying these adjustments respectively, the compression ratio should be
on
> the order of:
>
> R~ 0.0145 * [Compression reading (#)] / [Local "raw" reading
> (millibars)]
>
> R ~ 2.0354 * [Compression reading (#)] / [Local "raw" reading (Hg)].
>
> Using the 2nd formula, on the day of our test, the barometer read 30.01".
> Applying the formula to an average compression reading of 133#, the ratio
> worked out to be 9.02:1.
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From "Ron Davies" <rdavies1 at cox.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2003 17:18:30 -0700
Subject: RE: rear seat back/ parcel shelf
To: Healey List
Subject: rear seat back/ parcel shelf
Dear List,
Part of my parcel shelf has completely rotted away. It's the long thin
piece of wood that is the base of the seat back that screws to the seat
surround. What was left appears to be 1 inch thick by about an inch and a
half high. I say about an inch and a half because one side is cut at a
slight angle
________
| \
| \
|__________\ cross section view.
What is the orientation of this piece? My guess is angle on top sloping down
towards the front of the car. Thanks.
Best,
Greg
67 BJ8
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From "Ron Davies" <rdavies1 at cox.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2003 17:18:35 -0700
Subject: green-blue antifreeze
Ronald O. Davies
67 BJ8
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From "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK at peoplepc.com>
Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2003 20:25:14 -0400
Subject: Re: Can you see the AHC (UK) web site?
"Noggin" is drinking, typically alcohol like warm beer. "Natters" is
sitting discussing the cars while "noggin".
regards,
Peter Davis
----- Original Message -----
From: Kent McLean <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 05, 2003 6:52 AM
Subject: Re: Can you see the AHC (UK) web site?
> Alan F Cross wrote:
> > Can anyone (not with Demon) confirm that they can see our site?
> > http://www.austin-healey-club.com
>
> I just checked, and now I need an English-to-American
> translation, please. One of the topics listed "Noggin
> and Natters", a phrase with which I am not familiar.
> Would you be so kind as to enlighten us colonials?
>
> Thank you,
> Kent
> '56 100 BN2
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From "Ron Davies" <rdavies1 at cox.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2003 17:24:08 -0700
Subject: RE: Can you see the AHC (UK) web site?
Alan F Cross wrote:
> Can anyone (not with Demon) confirm that they can see our site?
> http://www.austin-healey-club.com
I just checked, and now I need an English-to-American
translation, please. One of the topics listed "Noggin
and Natters", a phrase with which I am not familiar.
Would you be so kind as to enlighten us colonials?
Thank you,
Kent
'56 100 BN2
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From "Kent McLean" <kentmclean at mindspring.com>
Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2003 20:36:56 -0400
Subject: Re: Can you see the AHC (UK) web site?
Google is my friend. It found this:
http://www.wordwizard.com/clubhouse/founddiscuss.asp?Num=3310
Cheers,
Kent
'56 100 BN2
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
Date: Fri, 05 Sep 2003 18:46:03 -0600
Subject: Re: BN1 & BN2 compression readings
Allen,
As far as I can tell, there were several high compression dish top
pistons available. They varied from 8.2 to 1 to 8.8 to 1.
Your formula is correct for "isothermal" compression which assumes that
no heat is gained or lost during the compression cycle. The formula for
"adiabatic" compression takes heat loss or gain into consideration. Eg.
as the air is compressed it is heated by the compression & the final
pressure is higher than would be predicted by isothermal compression.
The variables are rather large & the difference between the two
calculations can vary by a factor of almost two to one in the final
pressure.
Whether heat is gained or lost during compression depends on several
things such as how quickly the compression takes place (starter & engine
cranking speed), temperature of the engine during the test (is the air
in the cylinder hotter or cooler than the air compressed in it) , & a
few other variables. The end result is usually that the measured
compression pressure is somewhat higher than would be calculated by
isothermal compression.
To complicate things , at low rpm such as cranking speeds --
The actual engine compression ratio is never the design calculated ratio
because in reality the piston cannot begin to compress anything until
the intake valve gets closed. If the intake valve were to be completely
closed at BDC, which by design it never is, the actual & rated
compression ratios would be the same. At higher rpms & thus higher
intake gas velocities, the late closing of the intake valve is offset
by the gas inertia in the intake tract & the engine can approach or
exceed it's design compression ratio.
This is why I asked for "typical" readings on a specific type of engine,
& disregarded engine temp. & ring condition.
Again, thanks to all,
Dave Russell
Allen C Miller, Jr. wrote:
> Our readings on original type shallow dish pistons (8.5:1?)
> are between 130# and 138# (average=133#) with a brand new calibrated
> (threaded-in type) compression guage. This approximates to about 9:1
> compression using assumptions in the footnote, which is consistent with
> 8.5:1 shallow-dish M pistons on a head that has been planed by a
> whisker or two (or twenty).
>
> If you have a 7.5 standard piston setup, the same method would predict
> compression readings hovering around 110#.
>
> Allen Miller '56 BN2/M
> -------------------------------
> On computing compression ratio:
>
> I've run this by several knowledgeable people, all of whom immediately
> indicate I'm cracked. Notwithstanding, I still think that, at least on the
> first order, the compression ratio of your car can be calculated using
> Boyle's Law (P1V1=P2V2).
>
> Assuming you are at sea level on a day with neutral barometric pressure the
> air above you weighs 14.7 pounds per square inch (1 "atmosphere"). In this
> ideal case, when you compress the piston's air volume to TDC, the pressure
> reading divided by 14.7 would represent the compression ratio.
>
> If you are at higher elevation (e..g, Denver), the issue is a little more
> complex. The air is less dense, and not accurately represented by an ambient
> air pressure of 14.7psi. Since the compression ratio calculation is made
> using uncompressed local air and the same air being compressed N-fold,
> the divisor is not properly 14.7, but 14.7 adjusted up or down by the ratios
> of your pressure to sea-level pressure:
>
> {direct barometric reading in millibars} / 1013.5 or {direct reading
> in inches mercury}/ 29.92
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From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2003 22:02:02 -0400
Subject: fuel pump crud
I'm now tearing down the pump, which seems to be a relatively late model SU
judging from the presence of SU-printed tape sealing the joint of the bakelite
and actuator body. Apart from dirty points, the electric portion seems okay.
Unfortunately, the pump cavity was 60-80% filled with waxy beads of rust
powder. For thouse of you who've been through this...
1. Is just clicking once reasonably attributable to the pump chamber being
plugged up? Or is it more likely indicative of an electrical fault to boot?
The pump was hesitating before this.
2. Is it preferable just to replace the pump?
3. Someone cut a three inch section from the steel inlet line about 2" from
the pump body and bridged the removed section with a section of rubber hose.
Would it be safe to take advantage of this modification and run a fuel filter
between the two cut ends? If I were to do this, does the filter have to be
right in line, or could I run flex fuel lines 10" to 15" and attach the filter
to the bulkhead in a place that is more accessible through the battery hatch
(this is a BN2)? Any recommendations on the brand of filter would be
appreciated.
4. Obviously I sucked rust from the bottom of the gas tank. Is it a
foregone conclusion that there's mroe to come and I need to think of replacing
the tank. There are no signs of leakage through, but I'm mindful that the car
sat on blocks for 15 years. Are there any remedies short of replacement apart
from draining the tank through the bottom plug? Is there a way, for example,
to pull the tank and use glass beads or B-B's to aggitate rust deposits loose?
Are there any coatings that you can use?
5. After I get a clean fuel supply to the carbs, given the foregoing,
should I also tear down the SU's. I found some sediment in the bowls, but it
was below the level of the ducts leading to the jets.
Guidance to any one of these areas will help a great deal.
Thanks
Allen Miller
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
Date: Fri, 05 Sep 2003 21:25:22 -0600
Subject: Re: fuel pump crud
Allen C Miller, Jr. wrote:
>
> I'm now tearing down the pump, which seems to be a relatively late model SU
> judging from the presence of SU-printed tape sealing the joint of the bakelite
> and actuator body. Apart from dirty points, the electric portion seems okay.
> Unfortunately, the pump cavity was 60-80% filled with waxy beads of rust
> powder. For thouse of you who've been through this...
>
> 1. Is just clicking once reasonably attributable to the pump chamber being
> plugged up? Or is it more likely indicative of an electrical fault to boot?
> The pump was hesitating before this.
It is attributable to either the inlet or outlet or both being plugged
or less likely to an electrical fault in the point positioning or
adjustment. You can very carefully take the lower part of the pump apart
& clean the parts. Be very sure that you know which way to put
everything back. There is an inlet screen to protect the pump, it &
other parts are likely plugged. You can test the pump by putting it in a
coffee can with a couple of inches of kerosene in the bottom.(Or use two
cans & a hose) Fire it up in the can. It should click very quickly &
pump a lot of fuel around in the can or between cans. This will also
help flush out any remaining junk. May have to clean the internal filter
again. If you plug the outlet it should stop pumping. If only clicks
once every few seconds while plugged it is ok. If it clicks more often,
it means that it's valves are leaking & more cleaning is needed.
>
> 2. Is it preferable just to replace the pump?
Not unless the tinkering fails. At this point I advise getting a "SU
Workshop Manual" from Moss Motors or somewhere. It covers fuel pumps &
most of the carbs in great detail. The pump contact throw may need
adjusting.
> 3. Someone cut a three inch section from the steel inlet line about 2" from
> the pump body and bridged the removed section with a section of rubber hose.
> Would it be safe to take advantage of this modification and run a fuel filter
> between the two cut ends? If I were to do this, does the filter have to be
> right in line, or could I run flex fuel lines 10" to 15" and attach the filter
> to the bulkhead in a place that is more accessible through the battery hatch
> (this is a BN2)? Any recommendations on the brand of filter would be
> appreciated.
It would be easiest to just spread the metal pipes a bit more & insert
an inline fuel filter. Available in all shapes & sizes at most auto
parts stores. See below.
> 4. Obviously I sucked rust from the bottom of the gas tank. Is it a
> foregone conclusion that there's mroe to come and I need to think of replacing
> the tank. There are no signs of leakage through, but I'm mindful that the car
> sat on blocks for 15 years. Are there any remedies short of replacement apart
> from draining the tank through the bottom plug? Is there a way, for example,
> to pull the tank and use glass beads or B-B's to aggitate rust deposits loose?
> Are there any coatings that you can use?
There will likely be so much more rust to come that you will be
replacing the filter all of the time. Many radiator shops will clean &
test a fuel tank. It probably won't show thin spots that are ready to go
in a few more weeks. In my experience you will find that a new tank is
the best way to go. The first one lasted quite a few years, & a new one
will do the same. There are many sealers & etching systems available.
Most, if not all of them will sooner or later shed particles & give all
kinds of grief with plugged fuel systems. The cost of a new tank is not
a lot more than having a shop "fix" it or to buy the sealer & prep
materials.
> 5. After I get a clean fuel supply to the carbs, given the foregoing,
> should I also tear down the SU's. I found some sediment in the bowls, but it
> was below the level of the ducts leading to the jets.
I would put another inline fuel filter near the carb fuel inlets. In
fact, with a new tank the external rear pump filter is not really
needed. You can probably remove the carb tops, clean the needles &
seats, suction the junk out of the bottom of the chambers & go. Some
carbs have a filter screen in the fuel inlet assembly which should be
checked. Many people have removed these screens long ago. Be sure to
flush the lines with the pump before reconnecting the fuel inlets to the
carbs.
> Guidance to any one of these areas will help a great deal.
>
> Thanks
>
> Allen Miller
Good luck,
Dave Russell
BN2
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From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2003 23:00:11 -0700
Subject: Re: green-blue antifreeze
Red/orange/pink AF is "extended life;" nominally good for 5-7 years
and 50-70,000 miles. Green/blue is standard issue, good for 3 years give or
take.
AFAIK, they're both ethylene glycol-based; the difference is the anti-rust
additives.
According to them, you can mix the two but the result will have the life
expectancy
of the green; i.e. there is no "averaging" of the life expectancy of the AF.
There is a "special" AF, which I believe is only for (some) Volkswagens. Not
recommended for other cars.
I've heard some say you shouldn't use extended life AF in older cars, but
I've seen nothing definitive to prove it's a problem. Supposedly the red stuff
might crystallize in an older car's cooling system, but the (alleged) chemistry
explanation didn't make sense to me. Cooling systems haven't changed much in
many years (except some newer cars actually run hotter, by design).
FWIW, I use green AF and distilled water.
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 05, 2003 5:18 PM
Subject: green-blue antifreeze
> I did a search on this but came up blank.
> Maybe because this is such an obvious question?
> The level of antifreeze (new radiator one year ago, large core) was a little
> low so I went to Kragen.
> They said "do you want red or green"? Not knowing what was in my car I said
> "I don't know" does it matter? He said no so I bought PEAK brand Maximum
> protection green.
> Can you mix red and green?
> Thanks in advance
>
> Ronald O. Davies
> 67 BJ8
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From Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
Date: Sat, 06 Sep 2003 04:58:39 -0700
Subject: Re: fuel pump crud
Get a new tank, and a NAPA solid state pump. Yes place a filter in line.
Tracy
Allen C Miller, Jr. wrote:
>After getting great spark from Pertronix, installing a sports coil, new cap,
>new wires, suppressors and spark plugs, I anxiously awaited the lion's roar.
>Again, the only sound was a single tappet ticking like a metronome as the
>motor cranks over and over. Turning to fuel, I soon realized the carbs were
>dry. Then, and unfortunately only then, did I realized that the fuel pump was
>only clicking once or twice, even with the fuel line separated from the carb
>lids.
>
>I'm now tearing down the pump, which seems to be a relatively late model SU
>judging from the presence of SU-printed tape sealing the joint of the bakelite
>and actuator body. Apart from dirty points, the electric portion seems okay.
>Unfortunately, the pump cavity was 60-80% filled with waxy beads of rust
>powder. For thouse of you who've been through this...
>
>1. Is just clicking once reasonably attributable to the pump chamber being
>plugged up? Or is it more likely indicative of an electrical fault to boot?
>The pump was hesitating before this.
>
>2. Is it preferable just to replace the pump?
>
>3. Someone cut a three inch section from the steel inlet line about 2" from
>the pump body and bridged the removed section with a section of rubber hose.
>Would it be safe to take advantage of this modification and run a fuel filter
>between the two cut ends? If I were to do this, does the filter have to be
>right in line, or could I run flex fuel lines 10" to 15" and attach the filter
>to the bulkhead in a place that is more accessible through the battery hatch
>(this is a BN2)? Any recommendations on the brand of filter would be
>appreciated.
>
>4. Obviously I sucked rust from the bottom of the gas tank. Is it a
>foregone conclusion that there's mroe to come and I need to think of replacing
>the tank. There are no signs of leakage through, but I'm mindful that the car
>sat on blocks for 15 years. Are there any remedies short of replacement apart
>from draining the tank through the bottom plug? Is there a way, for example,
>to pull the tank and use glass beads or B-B's to aggitate rust deposits loose?
>Are there any coatings that you can use?
>
>5. After I get a clean fuel supply to the carbs, given the foregoing,
>should I also tear down the SU's. I found some sediment in the bowls, but it
>was below the level of the ducts leading to the jets.
>
>Guidance to any one of these areas will help a great deal.
>
>Thanks
>
>Allen Miller
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2003 08:08:38 -0500
Subject: Re: fuel pump crud
I used Bill Hirsch's product, "Alcohol Resistent fuel tank sealer" (pint,
was just enough)
and pint of gas tank etch from same vendor.
Drained tank, sloshed around with water and big bolts to knock loos rust off
several times, applied etch applied sealer. A short afternoons work, I
repainted the outside of the tank while it was out (yikes I see the
evolution now--proper paint color for fuel tank--was fuel pump crud!)
Anyway a short afternoon's work and $30, all is still fine on my car 4 years
later, if you don't want to spend a few hundred on a fuel tank right now
maybe worth a try. If budget is not a concern I would just get a new tank.
Happy Healying
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
Date: Sat, 06 Sep 2003 08:49:53 -0700
Subject: Re: thermostat for bj8
It is a common thermostat available at any auto parts store (NAPA, etc.) -
best to take the old one with you for the physical measurement. They are
available in 160, 180, and 195 degrees, what you'll need depends on where
you live, how the car runs, etc, usually 180.
What you may need from a British car parts supplier will be the (exact
replacement) thermostat gasket, although the parts store may have a
replacement, or at least a universal type that can be used. (take the
thermostat housing with you, as well)
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jorge Garcia" <fortee9er@yahoo.com>
To: "Austin Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 05, 2003 10:45 AM
Subject: thermostat for bj8
Is the thermostat used on the bj8 something that has
to be ordered from one of the usual british car
suppliers or is there a comparable unit that can be
purchased from a local parts house?
Thanks
Jorge
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
Date: Sat, 06 Sep 2003 09:08:57 -0700
Subject: Re: fuel pump crud
I agree with the other lister's responses - all good advice, particularly to
replace the tank - 'sloshing' the tank always seems to come back to haunt
you eventually, and from your description, your tank is getting pretty
rusty!
FWIW: I always use an inline filter, regardless of whether or not the tank
is repaired or new - I have had more than one tank of fuel that had crud
right from the pump in it, a real pain on a trip.
I use a Purolator see-through filter, a glass body with a replaceable
element, available at most auto parts stores. It sounds like someone has
aready had a filter of some sort in your car - just use some 5/16" tubing
slipped over the solid pipe, and a 5/16" sized filter, and locate it so you
can easily inspect it from time to time.
I prefer to install the filter in the line between the tank and the pump -
that way, the pump valves are protected.
The carb float bowls can be cleaned of the sediment from above with paper
towels - no real need to rebuild them. As another lister suggested, make
sure to run some gas into a can to flush out the system, with the supply
line disconnected at the front carb.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
---- Original Message -----
From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 05, 2003 7:02 PM
Subject: fuel pump crud
After getting great spark from Pertronix, installing a sports coil, new cap,
new wires, suppressors and spark plugs, I anxiously awaited the lion's
roar.
Again, the only sound was a single tappet ticking like a metronome as the
motor cranks over and over. Turning to fuel, I soon realized the carbs were
dry. Then, and unfortunately only then, did I realized that the fuel pump
was
only clicking once or twice, even with the fuel line separated from the carb
lids.
I'm now tearing down the pump, which seems to be a relatively late model SU
judging from the presence of SU-printed tape sealing the joint of the
bakelite
and actuator body. Apart from dirty points, the electric portion seems okay.
Unfortunately, the pump cavity was 60-80% filled with waxy beads of rust
powder. For thouse of you who've been through this...
1. Is just clicking once reasonably attributable to the pump chamber
being
plugged up? Or is it more likely indicative of an electrical fault to boot?
The pump was hesitating before this.
2. Is it preferable just to replace the pump?
3. Someone cut a three inch section from the steel inlet line about 2"
from
the pump body and bridged the removed section with a section of rubber hose.
Would it be safe to take advantage of this modification and run a fuel
filter
between the two cut ends? If I were to do this, does the filter have to be
right in line, or could I run flex fuel lines 10" to 15" and attach the
filter
to the bulkhead in a place that is more accessible through the battery hatch
(this is a BN2)? Any recommendations on the brand of filter would be
appreciated.
4. Obviously I sucked rust from the bottom of the gas tank. Is it a
foregone conclusion that there's mroe to come and I need to think of
replacing
the tank. There are no signs of leakage through, but I'm mindful that the
car
sat on blocks for 15 years. Are there any remedies short of replacement
apart
from draining the tank through the bottom plug? Is there a way, for example,
to pull the tank and use glass beads or B-B's to aggitate rust deposits
loose?
Are there any coatings that you can use?
5. After I get a clean fuel supply to the carbs, given the foregoing,
should I also tear down the SU's. I found some sediment in the bowls, but it
was below the level of the ducts leading to the jets.
Guidance to any one of these areas will help a great deal.
Thanks
Allen Miller
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From "Roger Bowker - Sextant Communications, Ltd" <sextant at charter.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2003 12:01:49 -0400
Subject: Closure to situation ( Where is step 4?!)- RE: Pertronix
Item 2: It seems that there's no step by step process to troubleshoot a
pertronix system written down anywhere, other than swapping out the module
and reinstalling your old lucas point system. Does anyone know of a way to
'force' the field effect transistor to open and close to check if it's
making and breaking?
Item:3 the Story - Titled "It's that damn step 4"
Last night I finally replaced the pertronix system with my lucas point
system (and got no spark). I took the ol' Healey manual, section B3 steps
1,2,3A-J, and 5. (YIKES!!! There is no step 4! - I checked another manual
and same thing - no step 4. Did anyone else ever notice this and point (pun
intended) it out in the archives - I never even saw the fact in Nock's tech
tips.
So I started through the troubleshooting sequence (along with a ready
reference of single malt scotch). Moving smartly from steps 1 to 2 to 3A-3J
and then jumping to step 5 I was able to ascertain that I got spark from the
coil and the high tension lead when I flicked the points...but no spark from
the distributor to the plugs. I replaced the distributor cap - and got no
spark to the plugs. I finally replaced the rotor and the engine came to
life.
whew.
My next step (if I have the energy) is to take it all apart and re-install
the pertronix system to see if it worked all along. I think the biggest
problem in this entire escapade is that there's no step by step sequence to
troubleshoot a pertronix including a section on how to force a spark with
the distributor cap off.
Anyone got stuff they want to add to this escapade?
Roger Bowker
Harvard, Ma
59BT7 thermal choke and all
--- "Roger Bowker - Sextant Communications, Ltd"
<sextant@charter.net> wrote:
> This is vvvvery frustrating -
>
> I thought I had a bum pertronix ignitoin, so I've
> swapped it out for a new
> one.
> However - It still seems that I'm still not getting
> a spark through my
> pertronix ignition.
>
> Is it hooked up correctly?
>
> White wire from ignition to black pertronix wire.
> Continuity light shows
> power is in this line when the ignition is turned
> on. The other white wire
> that goes to the battery cutoff switch is
> disconnected.
>
> Black and white wire from pertronix to coil negative
> terminal (when checked
> with a continuity light - it shows power to the
> terminal)
> Coil positive terminal to ground.
>
> engine cranks - no spark. nada
>
> Is there any way to check if the pertronix is making
> and breaking?
> What else can I check on the coil?
>
> Roger B
> Harvard, Ma
> 59BT7 - thermal choke and all
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From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2003 09:31:04 -0700
Subject: Re: thermostat for bj8
Fel-Pro 35221 or equivalent.
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: "Jorge Garcia" <fortee9er@yahoo.com>; "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2003 8:49 AM
Subject: Re: thermostat for bj8
> Jorge:
>
> It is a common thermostat available at any auto parts store (NAPA, etc.) -
> best to take the old one with you for the physical measurement. They are
> available in 160, 180, and 195 degrees, what you'll need depends on where
> you live, how the car runs, etc, usually 180.
>
. (take the
> thermostat housing with you, as well)
>
> Earl Kagna
> Victoria, B. C. Canada
> '62 BT7 tri-carb
> '67 BJ8
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From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2003 10:39:41 -0700
Subject: Re: thermostat for bj8
Take your old gasket--if it's mostly intact--to an auto parts store. I got an
exact match in a Fel-Pro replacement (sorry, I've already installed it so I
can't get the part number).
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>; "Jorge Garcia" <fortee9er@yahoo.com>; "Healey
List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2003 9:31 AM
Subject: Re: thermostat for bj8
> re:
> > What you may need from a British car parts supplier will be the (exact
> > replacement) thermostat gasket, although the parts store may have a
> > replacement, or at least a universal type that can be used
>
>
> Fel-Pro 35221 or equivalent.
>
>
> bs
> *****************************************************
> Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
>(home)
> San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
> `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
> *****************************************************
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
Date: Sat, 06 Sep 2003 13:19:15 -0700
Subject: Re: Closure to situation ( Where is step 4?!)- RE: Pertronix
Good going - you're most of the way there. The scotch probably did the
trick - I have found that vodka works well, so does beer, but you need more
of it!
I'll bet the Pertronics is fine. There have been lots of problems with bad
(grounded) rotor arms recently - make sure that you are always carrying a
known good spare or two. Consider yourself lucky that you had to go through
this with the car in the garage - you would not believe where some of our
Healey friends have been stranded with bad rotors and no spare.
I believe that there is a way to check for spark with the Pertronics - can't
remember what it is, maybe the instruction sheet deals with it. In your
case, if the engine fires, don't worry about it. Also, I advise carrying
the entire points/condenser set up, including fasteners, that is removed
with you at all times, so that you have the ability to get the car running
by the side of the road, so to speak, if the electronic ever fails - it
happens!
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Bowker - Sextant Communications, Ltd" <sextant@charter.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2003 9:01 AM
Subject: Closure to situation ( Where is step 4?!)- RE: Pertronix ignition -
is this hooked up correctly? No spark.
Item 1: I've got the car running - finally.
Item 2: It seems that there's no step by step process to troubleshoot a
pertronix system written down anywhere, other than swapping out the module
and reinstalling your old lucas point system. Does anyone know of a way to
'force' the field effect transistor to open and close to check if it's
making and breaking?
Item:3 the Story - Titled "It's that damn step 4"
Last night I finally replaced the pertronix system with my lucas point
system (and got no spark). I took the ol' Healey manual, section B3 steps
1,2,3A-J, and 5. (YIKES!!! There is no step 4! - I checked another manual
and same thing - no step 4. Did anyone else ever notice this and point (pun
intended) it out in the archives - I never even saw the fact in Nock's tech
tips.
So I started through the troubleshooting sequence (along with a ready
reference of single malt scotch). Moving smartly from steps 1 to 2 to 3A-3J
and then jumping to step 5 I was able to ascertain that I got spark from the
coil and the high tension lead when I flicked the points...but no spark from
the distributor to the plugs. I replaced the distributor cap - and got no
spark to the plugs. I finally replaced the rotor and the engine came to
life.
whew.
My next step (if I have the energy) is to take it all apart and re-install
the pertronix system to see if it worked all along. I think the biggest
problem in this entire escapade is that there's no step by step sequence to
troubleshoot a pertronix including a section on how to force a spark with
the distributor cap off.
Anyone got stuff they want to add to this escapade?
Roger Bowker
Harvard, Ma
59BT7 thermal choke and all
--- "Roger Bowker - Sextant Communications, Ltd"
<sextant@charter.net> wrote:
> This is vvvvery frustrating -
>
> I thought I had a bum pertronix ignitoin, so I've
> swapped it out for a new
> one.
> However - It still seems that I'm still not getting
> a spark through my
> pertronix ignition.
>
> Is it hooked up correctly?
>
> White wire from ignition to black pertronix wire.
> Continuity light shows
> power is in this line when the ignition is turned
> on. The other white wire
> that goes to the battery cutoff switch is
> disconnected.
>
> Black and white wire from pertronix to coil negative
> terminal (when checked
> with a continuity light - it shows power to the
> terminal)
> Coil positive terminal to ground.
>
> engine cranks - no spark. nada
>
> Is there any way to check if the pertronix is making
> and breaking?
> What else can I check on the coil?
>
> Roger B
> Harvard, Ma
> 59BT7 - thermal choke and all
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From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2003 17:13:12 -0400
Subject: It runs...and it leaks
Is there anything fairly simple that I'm missing here, or do I just need to
bite the bullet and pull the carb off the car? (It would have to be the rear
carb, with the impossible to reach bottom nut)
Thanks,
Mick Vander Ploeg
'57 BN4, running and leaking nicely.
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
Date: Sat, 06 Sep 2003 16:03:35 -0700
Subject: Rotor Arms - (was closure ---------)
Hope you don't mind, I'm taking the liberty of copying the list so that
others can see this.
There has been a lot of conflicting information with regard to exactly which
rotors are problematic, and a lot of disagreement among Healey owners as to
which to use, which are trouble free, etc. etc.
This situation is muddied somewhat by the fact that we tend to hoard parts -
a rotor that may have been purchased years ago is suddenly found and
installed during routine maitenance, and sometimes, we have no record or
recollection of where it came from, or when.
Another factor may be other distributor problems of a mechanical nature -
eg: a re-bushed distributor where the spindle is riding slightly too high,
with the rotor too close to the cap contact, causing it to fail in time - I
have seen this recently. (This problem can be exacerbated when using an
electronic ignition - the rotor rides a bit higher than with points because
of the ingnition's trigger wheel located below it.)
The last rotors that I purchased were labelled Lucas and were sourced from
Norman / David Nock at BCS in Stockton, CA, about 2 - 3 years ago. They
replicate the original well - have the little steel spring to tension it
against the spindle, and are not counterweighted, which works better with
the electronic ignitions - fewer clearance problems inside the cap.
I have run two of these rotors since, in the BT7 with a Pertronics, and the
BJ8 with a very old Repco-then Allison, now Crane unit, both cars converted
to NEG ground, both with with older Lucas sports coils, neither distributor
has been re-bushed. Lots of miles on both rotors with no problems. I have
also bailed out a couple of buddies with dead rotors with parts from the
same shipment.
About all you can do is contact the specialist suppliers and try to find out
whether or not what they are selling is giving problems - I've heard of a
couple of owners that have had trouble with even the Lucas rotors. These
suppliers don't like come-backs, they are trying to solve the problem. Best
thing, as always - there are no guarantees that you are going to get a
trouble-free part - make sure that you have a couple of known good spares in
the car with you at all times!
Hope this helps,
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2003 1:32 PM
Subject: RE: Closure to situation ( Where is step 4?!)- RE: Pertronix
ignition - is this hooked up correctly? No spark.
Do you have a source and part number handy?
Thanks
Ron
67 BJ8
*****************
There have been lots of problems with bad
(grounded) rotor arms recently - make sure that you are always carrying a
known good spare or two.
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Sat, 06 Sep 2003 17:12:27 -0600
Subject: Re: Closure to situation ( Where is step 4?!)- RE: Pertronix
Bill Lawrence
Earl Kagna wrote:
> Roger:
>
> Good going - you're most of the way there. The scotch probably did the
> trick - I have found that vodka works well, so does beer, but you need more
> of it!
>
> I'll bet the Pertronics is fine. There have been lots of problems with bad
> (grounded) rotor arms recently - make sure that you are always carrying a
> known good spare or two. Consider yourself lucky that you had to go through
> this with the car in the garage - you would not believe where some of our
> Healey friends have been stranded with bad rotors and no spare.
>
> I believe that there is a way to check for spark with the Pertronics - can't
> remember what it is, maybe the instruction sheet deals with it. In your
> case, if the engine fires, don't worry about it. Also, I advise carrying
> the entire points/condenser set up, including fasteners, that is removed
> with you at all times, so that you have the ability to get the car running
> by the side of the road, so to speak, if the electronic ever fails - it
> happens!
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Sat, 06 Sep 2003 17:22:17 -0600
Subject: Re: It runs...and it leaks
Bill Lawrence
Mick VanderPloeg wrote:
> The good news is that my Healey's engine came to life today after a 25 year
> rest. Sounds great & idles nice and smooth. The bad news is that it leaks.
> I know it's supposed to do that, but this leak is coming from the bottom of
> the jet on my rear carb. This is an H type carb for an early BN4, and it was
> professionally rebuilt. I've tried tightening the gland nut, but fuel still
> drips from the jet. It's not running down from the side of the float bowl
> either, I've already checked that. The only other nut I see is the brass nut
> below the gland nut with a spring between the two, but won't I be messing with
> the jet adjustment if I turn that one?
>
> Is there anything fairly simple that I'm missing here, or do I just need to
> bite the bullet and pull the carb off the car? (It would have to be the rear
> carb, with the impossible to reach bottom nut)
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mick Vander Ploeg
> '57 BN4, running and leaking nicely.
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2003 19:32:18 -0700
Subject: Re: It runs...and it leaks
Mick,
I wouldn't be too concerned with the leak out of the rear carb actually. It
will drip down onto the exhaust downpipes and evaporate away. Problem
solved! :)
Keith Pennell
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From "David Masucci" <dmasucci at radiantsoundworks.com>
Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2003 22:25:23 -0400
Subject: Re: Closure to situation ( Where is step 4?!)- RE: Pertronix
I am glad that you have it running. Your Pertronix should be fine. This
rotor situation is a real problem...for everyone. Three years ago right
after rebuilding the engine in my BJ8, I was taking the car on it's maiden
voyage to work. At that time I lived in Mansfield, and traveled up 128 to
Billerica. Anyway on the way home that evening, the Healey just shut
off...dead. In the process of being hasty after getting her running (big
mistake) I didn't replace all of the spares that I usually carry in the
boot. The state trooper gave me no time to troubleshoot the problem anyway,
and called a ramp truck. After getting it home, I determined that it was a
bad rotor. A brand new rotor from Moss. I had installed it as part of
completing the rebuild. That rotor cost me $185 for the rush-hour tow. Now I
always carry old ones that I've had for years.
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Bowker - Sextant Communications, Ltd" <sextant@charter.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2003 12:01 PM
Subject: Closure to situation ( Where is step 4?!)- RE: Pertronix ignition -
is this hooked up correctly? No spark.
> Item 1: I've got the car running - finally.
>
> Item 2: It seems that there's no step by step process to troubleshoot a
> pertronix system written down anywhere, other than swapping out the module
> and reinstalling your old lucas point system. Does anyone know of a way
to
> 'force' the field effect transistor to open and close to check if it's
> making and breaking?
>
> Item:3 the Story - Titled "It's that damn step 4"
>
> Last night I finally replaced the pertronix system with my lucas point
> system (and got no spark). I took the ol' Healey manual, section B3 steps
> 1,2,3A-J, and 5. (YIKES!!! There is no step 4! - I checked another
manual
> and same thing - no step 4. Did anyone else ever notice this and point
(pun
> intended) it out in the archives - I never even saw the fact in Nock's
tech
> tips.
>
> So I started through the troubleshooting sequence (along with a ready
> reference of single malt scotch). Moving smartly from steps 1 to 2 to
3A-3J
> and then jumping to step 5 I was able to ascertain that I got spark from
the
> coil and the high tension lead when I flicked the points...but no spark
from
> the distributor to the plugs. I replaced the distributor cap - and got no
> spark to the plugs. I finally replaced the rotor and the engine came to
> life.
>
> whew.
>
> My next step (if I have the energy) is to take it all apart and re-install
> the pertronix system to see if it worked all along. I think the biggest
> problem in this entire escapade is that there's no step by step sequence
to
> troubleshoot a pertronix including a section on how to force a spark with
> the distributor cap off.
>
> Anyone got stuff they want to add to this escapade?
>
>
> Roger Bowker
> Harvard, Ma
> 59BT7 thermal choke and all
>
>
>
>
> --- "Roger Bowker - Sextant Communications, Ltd"
> <sextant@charter.net> wrote:
> > This is vvvvery frustrating -
> >
> > I thought I had a bum pertronix ignitoin, so I've
> > swapped it out for a new
> > one.
> > However - It still seems that I'm still not getting
> > a spark through my
> > pertronix ignition.
> >
> > Is it hooked up correctly?
> >
> > White wire from ignition to black pertronix wire.
> > Continuity light shows
> > power is in this line when the ignition is turned
> > on. The other white wire
> > that goes to the battery cutoff switch is
> > disconnected.
> >
> > Black and white wire from pertronix to coil negative
> > terminal (when checked
> > with a continuity light - it shows power to the
> > terminal)
> > Coil positive terminal to ground.
> >
> > engine cranks - no spark. nada
> >
> > Is there any way to check if the pertronix is making
> > and breaking?
> > What else can I check on the coil?
> >
> > Roger B
> > Harvard, Ma
> > 59BT7 - thermal choke and all
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
Date: Sat, 06 Sep 2003 20:30:56 -0600
Subject: Re: It runs...and it leaks
It could be the "jet bearing assy" which consists of tiny cork rings,
various brass & copper washers, a spring & the jet head. If any of these
parts are installed in the wrong places or wrong way around, or the
corks are not soaked in oil, the main jet will leak. I assume that the
"professional rebuilder" knows all of this.
Second point -- Bill is correct about his observations. The neoprene
grommets which have to be used with the matching through bolt, "banjo
bolt" & metal washer, work much better than any other combination.
After some searching David Nock was able to find the neoprene grommets
as part # AUC1534. I don't know the number for the matching bolt & washer.
Dave Russell
BN2
ynotink wrote:
> Is it possible that the problem is the joint between the carb body and the
>float
> bowl? With the materials currently available it can be a real bitch to seal
>that
> joint. Healeys used a special bolt with a combination of fiber and brass
>washers
> to affect a seal. The MGA used a different type of special bolt with a steel
> washer and two rubber seals. When I put my "bitsa" together I ended up with
>the
> MG bolts and washers trying to seal with the AH felt washers. That doesn't
>work.
> I Finally got the rubber seals ala MGA and now both carbs are sealed.
>
> Bill Lawrence
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Sat, 06 Sep 2003 20:31:22 -0600
Subject: Re: It runs...and it leaks
Bill
Dave & Marlene wrote:
>
>
> Second point -- Bill is correct about his observations. The neoprene
> grommets which have to be used with the matching through bolt, "banjo
> bolt" & metal washer, work much better than any other combination.
> After some searching David Nock was able to find the neoprene grommets
> as part # AUC1534. I don't know the number for the matching bolt & washer.
>
> Dave Russell
> BN2
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From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2003 08:09:43 -0400
Subject: trunk liner
allen '56 BN2/M
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From Douglas W Flagg <dwflagg at juno.com>
Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2003 10:40:44 -0400
Subject: Re: It runs...and it leaks
Who rebuilt the carbs? I had Jim Taylor rebuild the carbs for my friend's
BN4 and they work first time with no leaks. I would be carefull not to
over torque the gland nut. There should be a warranty on the work
(hopefully).
Regards,
Doug
On Sat, 6 Sep 2003 19:32:18 -0700 "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
writes:
> > The good news is that my Healey's engine came to life today after a
> 25
> year
> > rest. Sounds great & idles nice and smooth. The bad news is that
> it
> leaks.
> > I know it's supposed to do that, but this leak is coming from the
> bottom
> of
> > the jet on my rear carb. This is an H type carb for an early BN4,
> and it
> was
> > professionally rebuilt. I've tried tightening the gland nut, but
> fuel
> still
> > drips from the jet. It's not running down from the side of the
> float bowl
> > either, I've already checked that. The only other nut I see is
> the brass
> nut
> > below the gland nut with a spring between the two, but won't I be
> messing
> with
> > the jet adjustment if I turn that one?
> >
> > Is there anything fairly simple that I'm missing here, or do I
> just need
> to
> > bite the bullet and pull the carb off the car? (It would have to
> be the
> rear
> > carb, with the impossible to reach bottom nut)
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Mick Vander Ploeg
> > '57 BN4, running and leaking nicely.
>
________________________________________________________________
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From Ronald Fine <ronfineesq at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 07 Sep 2003 10:52:57 -0700
Subject: What is end play in steering box
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From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2003 13:49:07 EDT
Subject: Re: What is end play in steering box
> The only thing left
> to adjust is the "end play" with shims but I can't find any helpful
> information on how to determine if I have unusual end play and how to
> eliminate it if this is what is causing the sloppiness in my steering
> control. Any help?
>
End play is no real issue. It's that darn peg worm situation that is the
problem. Sure, endplay will help a bit, but then you're stuck with the
inherent
weakness of the design.
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From "David" <dcrawfor at san.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2003 11:23:31 -0700
Subject: Re: What is end play in steering box
May I add my same concerns about my '54 BN-1. Same symptoms.
Thanks in advance . . .
David Crawford
San Diego
----- Original Message -----
From: Ronald Fine
To: healeys
Sent: Sunday, September 07, 2003 10:52 AM
Subject: What is end play in steering box
Question for those who know about steering boxes. What is "end play" in
the steering box that is adjustable with the shims under the end plate.
Can I diagnosis "end play" with the steering box in the car? I had my
box out of the car for repairs but I could not feel any movement in the
shaft up/down or in/out at the time. I reinstalled my steering gear and
adjusted the follower per the book but I still have some slop in the
steering wheel. All the ball joints are good and tight and the extra
movement seems to be confinded to the steering box. The only thing left
to adjust is the "end play" with shims but I can't find any helpful
information on how to determine if I have unusual end play and how to
eliminate it if this is what is causing the sloppiness in my steering
control. Any help?
Thanks,
Ron
61BN7
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
Date: Sun, 07 Sep 2003 12:59:50 -0600
Subject: BN1 & BN2 compression readings
My query on Hundred Four compression readings brought some good
responses & several explanations of why there were too many variables
involved to give accurate answers. I expected variables as there are
many. The more responses the more that the variables will average out.
To summarize:
Five people responded with actual numbers, the engine averages ranged
from 111 to 138. The average of the five responses was 125 psi. This
is what I personally would consider a reasonable target number. The 100
spec & the 100M spec engines were not notably different. This is likely
explained by the higher compression ratio of the M spec engine being
offset by the later intake valve closing of this engine.
Thanks again for the responses,
Dave Russell
BN2
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
Date: Sun, 07 Sep 2003 13:52:00 -0600
Subject: Re: What is end play in steering box
You should be able to turn the top adjusting screw down tight enough to
cause bind in the steering. Then back it off very slightly. Next, for
what it's worth;
To quote from the shop manual - "Loose steering is invariably attributed
to end play of the inner column, which can be rectified by the removal
of shims located behind the steering box end cover plate, in a manner
already described.
To check for this end float, disconnect the side & cross tubes from the
steering lever & turn the steering wheel partly to the left or right
lock. Then with the steering wheel held to prevent it from turning,
endeavor to turn the steering lever. Should the steering wheel have a
tendency to lift, it may be assumed that there is end float of the gear"
----
I have found that the worm & peg box can be adjusted to give no more
than 1/4" play measured at the outer rim of the steering wheel. This
amount is not troublesome at all.
Dave Russell
BN2
Ronald Fine wrote:
> Question for those who know about steering boxes. What is "end play" in
> the steering box that is adjustable with the shims under the end plate.
> Can I diagnosis "end play" with the steering box in the car? I had my
> box out of the car for repairs but I could not feel any movement in the
> shaft up/down or in/out at the time. I reinstalled my steering gear and
> adjusted the follower per the book but I still have some slop in the
> steering wheel. All the ball joints are good and tight and the extra
> movement seems to be confinded to the steering box. The only thing left
> to adjust is the "end play" with shims but I can't find any helpful
> information on how to determine if I have unusual end play and how to
> eliminate it if this is what is causing the sloppiness in my steering
> control. Any help?
> Thanks,
> Ron
> 61BN7
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From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2003 12:56:15 -0700
Subject: Re: BN1 & BN2 compression readings
My Dad measured 135-140 psi on all four on our (factory) 100M.
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 07, 2003 11:59 AM
Subject: BN1 & BN2 compression readings
> Hi to all,
>
> My query on Hundred Four compression readings brought some good
> responses & several explanations of why there were too many variables
> involved to give accurate answers. I expected variables as there are
> many. The more responses the more that the variables will average out.
>
> To summarize:
>
> Five people responded with actual numbers, the engine averages ranged
> from 111 to 138. The average of the five responses was 125 psi. This
> is what I personally would consider a reasonable target number. The 100
> spec & the 100M spec engines were not notably different. This is likely
> explained by the higher compression ratio of the M spec engine being
> offset by the later intake valve closing of this engine.
>
> Thanks again for the responses,
>
> Dave Russell
> BN2
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
Date: Sun, 07 Sep 2003 14:01:11 -0600
Subject: Re: What is end play in steering box
See my reply to Ron. The only difference is that your BN1 may not have
the top peg adjusting screw. On this type of box, the peg is adjusted by
shims between the top cover & the box.
Dave Russell
David wrote:
> Ron,
>
> May I add my same concerns about my '54 BN-1. Same symptoms.
> Thanks in advance . . .
>
> David Crawford
> San Diego
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From Tom Sly <tsly at primelinksolutions.com>
Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2003 19:24:53 -0400
Subject: Temp/Oil Pressure Gauge removal
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From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2003 16:22:01 -0700
Subject: RE: Temp/Oil Pressure Gauge removal
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Tom Sly
Sent: Sunday, September 07, 2003 4:25 PM
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Subject: Temp/Oil Pressure Gauge removal
I have been working on a dash restoration. I finally got my adjustable
steering wheel removed (with great advice from the 'list' and archives)
.Anyway, I have pulled the dash, it is sitting on the floor, all the gauges
and knobs and old vinyl are removed with the exception of the temp/oil
gauge. I can't seen to figure out how to get the thermo cable out at the
gauge end. is it possible to remove that cable at the gauge end. I think I
could get a better vinyl application on the bench, but I could simply work
on it in place and vinyl around the gauge. Thanks for any comments.
Tom Sly
1958 BoW BN4
/
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From <lists at autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2003 18:21:20 -0600
Subject: Forwarded: RE: Dirt and more dirt in mashed car
http://www.team.net/posting.html
Reply to author, not me.
mjb.
----
------- Start of forwarded message -------
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: Dirt and more dirt in mashed car
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2003 01:07:47 -0500
In this weeks "Classic Car Restoration" on DIY they refurbished a dash, door
panel, and a seat of a Corvette's interior with a spray-on vinyl dye. They
said that the quality of the stuff was much better in the past (stays on)
and the results looked good.
Here is their write up of the segment
http://www.diynet.com/DIY/article/0,2058,10949,00.html
Patton
------- End of forwarded message -------
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
Date: Sun, 07 Sep 2003 19:00:49 -0600
Subject: Re: Temp/Oil Pressure Gauge removal
I don't quite understand. The temp gage has a long gas tube which screws
into the engine or radiator. If the dash is already on the bench the
tube should be attached to the gage. Just remove the gage bracket & pull
the gage out with the attached tube.
If you separate the tube from the gage the volatile liquid/ gas (usually
ether) will leak out & that is the end of the gage until it is
professionally repaired.
If it is as Ira says, how did you get the dash on the bench without
breaking the tube?
Dave Russell
BN2
-------------------------------------------
> You need to pull the plug at the block. It requires a 5/8th deep
> socket with a notch cut into it to accept the cable. At least my
> memory
> says its a 5/8ths.
I ERbs BT7
---------------------------------------------
Tom Sly wrote:
> I have been working on a dash restoration. I finally got my
> adjustable steering wheel removed (with great advice from the 'list'
> and archives) .Anyway, I have pulled the dash, it is sitting on the
> floor, all the gauges and knobs and old vinyl are removed with the
> exception of the temp/oil gauge. I can't seen to figure out how to
> get the thermo cable out at the gauge end. is it possible to remove
> that cable at the gauge end. I think I could get a better vinyl
> application on the bench, but I could simply work on it in place and
> vinyl around the gauge. Thanks for any comments. Tom Sly 1958 BoW BN4
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From Rich Holman <rich_holman at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2003 18:06:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: BN4 Brake Cyl Replacement
A couple of quick questions. I have just removed my
brake cylinders and they are really pitted.
Is it best to have them resleeved, if so who does it?
or
Should I just order replacements. If I do this might
I run into Whitworth Thread problems with the brake
lines?
Thanks
Rich
57BN4, 2port
__________________________________
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2003 18:35:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Closure to situation ( Where is step 4?!)- RE: Pertronix
I think you are aproaching this much too complicated.
If you don't have a spark at the spark plugs but you
are getting power at the primary ignition circuit (to
the coil) there are really only four things that can
go wrong:
1) bad coil or bad coil wire
2) bad rotor
3) bad distributor cap
4) bad points/condensor or pertonix .
I hate to tell you this, but you don't need to rip out
a pertronix to diagnose all these things... I always
carry a spare cap (with wires) and a good used rotor
in the car (i.e. one that I know works). If I have
trouble I just swap them (takes 2 seconds, literally)
. Easier than dealing with some obfusticated
diagnostic regime.
If that doesn't fix it, then try a new coil -
distributor wire. If not, last thing is swap coils (I
carry a spare one of these as well).
My experience is the pertronix rarely, if ever, goes
bad.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "Roger Bowker - Sextant Communications, Ltd"
<sextant@charter.net> wrote:
> Item 1: I've got the car running - finally.
>
> Item 2: It seems that there's no step by step
> process to troubleshoot a
> pertronix system written down anywhere, other than
> swapping out the module
> and reinstalling your old lucas point system. Does
> anyone know of a way to
> 'force' the field effect transistor to open and
> close to check if it's
> making and breaking?
>
> Item:3 the Story - Titled "It's that damn step 4"
>
> Last night I finally replaced the pertronix system
> with my lucas point
> system (and got no spark). I took the ol' Healey
> manual, section B3 steps
> 1,2,3A-J, and 5. (YIKES!!! There is no step 4! -
> I checked another manual
> and same thing - no step 4. Did anyone else ever
> notice this and point (pun
> intended) it out in the archives - I never even saw
> the fact in Nock's tech
> tips.
>
> So I started through the troubleshooting sequence
> (along with a ready
> reference of single malt scotch). Moving smartly
> from steps 1 to 2 to 3A-3J
> and then jumping to step 5 I was able to ascertain
> that I got spark from the
> coil and the high tension lead when I flicked the
> points...but no spark from
> the distributor to the plugs. I replaced the
> distributor cap - and got no
> spark to the plugs. I finally replaced the rotor
> and the engine came to
> life.
>
> whew.
>
> My next step (if I have the energy) is to take it
> all apart and re-install
> the pertronix system to see if it worked all along.
> I think the biggest
> problem in this entire escapade is that there's no
> step by step sequence to
> troubleshoot a pertronix including a section on how
> to force a spark with
> the distributor cap off.
>
> Anyone got stuff they want to add to this escapade?
>
>
> Roger Bowker
> Harvard, Ma
> 59BT7 thermal choke and all
>
>
>
>
> --- "Roger Bowker - Sextant Communications, Ltd"
> <sextant@charter.net> wrote:
> > This is vvvvery frustrating -
> >
> > I thought I had a bum pertronix ignitoin, so I've
> > swapped it out for a new
> > one.
> > However - It still seems that I'm still not
> getting
> > a spark through my
> > pertronix ignition.
> >
> > Is it hooked up correctly?
> >
> > White wire from ignition to black pertronix wire.
> > Continuity light shows
> > power is in this line when the ignition is turned
> > on. The other white wire
> > that goes to the battery cutoff switch is
> > disconnected.
> >
> > Black and white wire from pertronix to coil
> negative
> > terminal (when checked
> > with a continuity light - it shows power to the
> > terminal)
> > Coil positive terminal to ground.
> >
> > engine cranks - no spark. nada
> >
> > Is there any way to check if the pertronix is
> making
> > and breaking?
> > What else can I check on the coil?
> >
> > Roger B
> > Harvard, Ma
> > 59BT7 - thermal choke and all
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From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2003 18:56:47 -0700
Subject: RE: Temp/Oil Pressure Gauge removal
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Dave & Marlene
Sent: Sunday, September 07, 2003 6:01 PM
To: Tom Sly
Cc: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Subject: Re: Temp/Oil Pressure Gauge removal
Tom,
I don't quite understand. The temp gage has a long gas tube which screws
into the engine or radiator. If the dash is already on the bench the
tube should be attached to the gage. Just remove the gage bracket & pull
the gage out with the attached tube.
If you separate the tube from the gage the volatile liquid/ gas (usually
ether) will leak out & that is the end of the gage until it is
professionally repaired.
If it is as Ira says, how did you get the dash on the bench without
breaking the tube?
Dave Russell
BN2
-------------------------------------------
> You need to pull the plug at the block. It requires a 5/8th deep
> socket with a notch cut into it to accept the cable. At least my
> memory
> says its a 5/8ths.
I ERbs BT7
---------------------------------------------
Tom Sly wrote:
> I have been working on a dash restoration. I finally got my
> adjustable steering wheel removed (with great advice from the 'list'
> and archives) .Anyway, I have pulled the dash, it is sitting on the
> floor, all the gauges and knobs and old vinyl are removed with the
> exception of the temp/oil gauge. I can't seen to figure out how to
> get the thermo cable out at the gauge end. is it possible to remove
> that cable at the gauge end. I think I could get a better vinyl
> application on the bench, but I could simply work on it in place and
> vinyl around the gauge. Thanks for any comments. Tom Sly 1958 BoW BN4
/
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From Dave Carpenter <d.carpenter7 at verizon.net>
Date: Sun, 07 Sep 2003 22:25:42 -0400
Subject: Re: BN4 Brake Cyl Replacement
Sierra Specialty Automotive,
3494 Chandler Rd,
Quincy CA 95971.
1 800 4-BRASS-1
1 800 427-2771
530 283-4845 FAX
Rich Holman wrote:
>Is it best to have them resleeved, if so who does it?
>or
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From "Douglas W. Flagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2003 11:46:13 -0400
Subject: Re:Competition Exhaust
Happy Healeying,
Doug
'56 BN2
________________________________________________________________
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From m.brouillette at comcast.net
Date: Mon, 08 Sep 2003 16:44:37 +0000
Subject: Aluminum Valve Cover
I can't remember who was asking about the valve cover on my BT7, but I
just saw one on Ebay that's just like it. I don't know who this is selling
it, but it's a cover I haven't come across often in Healey circles...
Mike Brouillette
Bedford, NH
59 BT7
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?
ViewItem&category=34202&item=2431806839
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2003 10:19:36 -0700
Subject: FW: aluminum tube flaring
_______________________________________________________________________
Courtesy the Jensen-cars mailing list. Subscribe and unsubscribe
info at: <http://www.british-steel.org/faq/jensen-cars.html>.
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2003 15:05:23 EDT
Subject: Car Magazines and sexual dysfunction
Now my guess is that C&D is directed to a younger male audience than "British
Car Magazine" or its successor, and yet I have never seen an ad for these
type products in a publication that must be addressed to many "mature" males
such
as myself. I am wondering if the "muscle car" crowd's sexual musculature is
in some way deficient--Any thoughts here?
Best--Michael Oritt
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From "David" <dcrawfor at san.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2003 13:03:04 -0700
Subject: Re: Car Magazines and sexual dysfunction
Now my guess is that C&D is directed to a younger male audience than
"British
Car Magazine" or its successor, and yet I have never seen an ad for these
type products in a publication that must be addressed to many "mature" males
such
as myself. I am wondering if the "muscle car" crowd's sexual musculature is
in some way deficient -- Any thoughts here?
****
Michael,
Might they (muscle cars) be akin to the size of those big belt buckles
cowboys wear?
For what it's worth, at my age, I'm glad I can remember anything about sex,
which I'll
attribute to a large daily dose of GinkoViagra. (If anyone doesn't get
this - just ask.)
David C
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2003 16:12:21 -0400
Subject: Re: Car Magazines and sexual dysfunction
Obviously a marketing genius has decided that they (the "younger set")
have a lot more disposable income that we do as owners and operators (and
mechanics) of 'classic cars'!
Of course in truth, how much spare change do 'we' have left after buying
sixteen rotors (to get a good one), expensive oils and lubes specially
formulated for older cars, a fender here, a bumper there, an interior kit
and, of course, a hardtop for the Healey.
And marketing research likely shows that after buying, cleaning,
installing, removing and reinstalling, test driving, returning and
re-reinstalling all the above parts and pieces, we don't have time - and she
is so ticked at us - WELL - FORGET IT!
CB
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2003 13:26:53 -0700
Subject: Speaking of Car Magazines.........
Aside from the spelling (doozie, doozy, Duesey), it appears that the source of
the expression does not derive from the Duesenburg automobile. Research shows
that the expression "It's a doozie" was found in a letter written in the late
1890s, long before the first Duesenburgs were built.
The full explanation can be found at www.worldwidewords.org on the web.
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2003 16:24:30 -0700
Subject: Fw: Car Magazines and sexual dysfunction
As the original and still current owner of a 1969 Dodge Charger, I guess I
could consider myself part of the "muscle car crowd". And the answer to your
question is.... "No!" (speaking only for myself, of course)
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
I am wondering if the "muscle car" crowd's sexual musculature
is
> in some way deficient--Any thoughts here?
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
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From Meemeb at aol.com
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2003 17:36:14 EDT
Subject: Starting and Running Rebuilt Engine and Transmission
For the engine:
Should I put a little oil in the cylinders and turn the engine over a few
times without spark plugs?
Should I remove the oil filter and fill it with oil?
Should I use a 20-50 weight oil in the engine for this first start up or
should I use a 30 weight then drain it later and replace with 20-50 weight.
Should I use a regular oil, synthetic oil or a blend?
How long should I let the engine run and at what RPM for the initial start
up?
For the Transmission:
What gear should the transmission be in during its break in period and at
what engine RPM should I let the transmission break in?
Is 30 weight non detergent the best oil to use during this intial use of the
rebuilt transmission?
Both the engine and transmission have been in my garage since they were
rebuilt and I assume everything was properly lubricated during the reassembly
process. Thanks in advance for any advice or stories of problems others have
encountered during this phase of their restorations. I sure don't want to ruin
anything at this stage of the game.
Bernie
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From Jon McLeroy <jfm at ballistic.com>
Date: Mon, 08 Sep 2003 17:08:54 -0500
Subject: Re: Starting and Running Rebuilt Engine and Transmission
I would first use a running in oil for the first several hundred miles to
seat the rings and properly break in the engine.
Of course I recommend Penrite Oil products, which my company Classic Auto
Lubes is the sole distributor for the US.
Our replacement for 30W motor oil is our HPR 30 (20W/60).
Our Gear Oil 30 is a non-detergent multi viscosity (20W/60) and is
formulated for the gear box and overdrive.
Please let me have your mailing address and I will send you a brochure
packet including a Penrite Lubrication Recommendation Sheet for your Healey.
Thanks and God Bless
Jon
Classic Auto Lubes
12803 CR 1222
Tyler, Tx. 75709
Ph: 903-561-4858
Fax: 903-561-7177
Email: jfm@ballistic.com
www.classicautolubes.com
At 05:36 PM 9/8/03 -0400, you wrote:
>I am getting close to firing up my BJ8 for the first time since the engine
>and transmission were rebuilt. Both were professionally rebuilt when I first
>began restoring my Healey about seven years ago. I know that I should have
>delayed the rebuild of the engine and transmission till last, but now I am
>looking
>for input on the best way to prepare the engine for start up and how to run
>the transmission during the start up process to insure that I don't do any
>damage to either.
>
>For the engine:
>Should I put a little oil in the cylinders and turn the engine over a few
>times without spark plugs?
>Should I remove the oil filter and fill it with oil?
>Should I use a 20-50 weight oil in the engine for this first start up or
>should I use a 30 weight then drain it later and replace with 20-50 weight.
>Should I use a regular oil, synthetic oil or a blend?
>How long should I let the engine run and at what RPM for the initial start
>up?
>
>For the Transmission:
>What gear should the transmission be in during its break in period and at
>what engine RPM should I let the transmission break in?
>Is 30 weight non detergent the best oil to use during this intial use of the
>rebuilt transmission?
>
>Both the engine and transmission have been in my garage since they were
>rebuilt and I assume everything was properly lubricated during the reassembly
>process. Thanks in advance for any advice or stories of problems others have
>encountered during this phase of their restorations. I sure don't want to
>ruin
>anything at this stage of the game.
>
>Bernie
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From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "David" <dcrawfor@san.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2003 19:35:01 -0400
Subject: Re: Car Magazines and sexual dysfunction
Michael Oritt wrote:
Now my guess is that C&D is directed to a younger male audience than
"British Car Magazine" or its successor, and yet I have never seen an ad for
these
type products in a publication that must be addressed to many "mature"
males
such as myself. I am wondering if the "muscle car" crowd's sexual
musculature is
in some way deficient -- Any thoughts here?
--- It starts to happen when blood pressure exceeds oil pressure.
Allen Miller (120/80 blood, 60/40 oil)
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From David Smith <bighealeydude at yahoo.com>
From: "David" <dcrawfor@san.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2003 16:35:58 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Electric Radiator Fan
David Smith
67 BJ8
---------------------------------
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From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: "David" <dcrawfor@san.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2003 19:25:14 -0500
Subject: Can someone check out a big Healey for me near Pittsburg?
I talked to a guy who is selling a car in the SW side of Pittsburg, about 20
miles from downtown. Is there anyone who I can convince to look at the car
for me? I talked to the owner, and it would probably be sometime next week
or next weekend.
I know I have asked on a couple other cars, so far, they have sold before
anyone has gotten over to see them. I sold the MGB today, so the room is
there, I need to fill it.
Patton
-----------------------------
Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "David" <dcrawfor@san.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2003 21:18:15 EDT
Subject: Re: [CAAHC] Car Magazines and sexual dysfunction
> The lore on the street, so to speak, has always been that when it comes to
> cars the muscle under the hood is inversely related to the angle of the
> dangle. I suspect the "Car and Driver" readership is an anatomically biased
> cross-section of car owners. Adding insult to injury, the muslce car crowd
>may
> be on the near side of "mature," but I suspect many of them are just now
> starting to run out of horsepower (though they have plenty of buying power).
> Hence the well-placed ads. Of course, a corallary to the street lore is that
> Healey owners must be hung like . . . well, you get the picture. As a BJ8
> owner, I caution you 100 owners before getting carried away that the above
> relationship reverses itself for cars with adjustable windshields.
>
> D.B. Johnsen
>
D.B.--
Anyone whose internet server is "cox.net" certainly must be qualified to
comment.
Best--Michael
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From Skip Besaw <besaw55 at yahoo.com>
From: "David" <dcrawfor@san.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2003 18:42:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Jack Stands
Skip Besaw, 1967 BJ8
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From David Smith <bighealeydude at yahoo.com>
From: "David" <dcrawfor@san.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2003 18:43:58 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Electric Radiator Fan
Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe@earthlink.net> wrote:
David,
Before you go thru all of the research for the proper fitting electric fan,
which will further tax the generator, try a Texas Koooler.
You can get this fan thru the NTAHC for about $45.00 PP. It is a great fan
and does the job you are looking to get done.
Just a suggestion!
Fred
'63 BJ7
---------------------------------
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From BN1HealeyFan at aol.com
From: "David" <dcrawfor@san.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2003 21:52:11 EDT
Subject: Re: [CAAHC] Car Magazines and sexual dysfunction
The angle of the dangle is inversely proportional to the slope of the
windshield. The lower the windshield.....well, you know the rest.
Bill Scannell
BN-1
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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: "David" <dcrawfor@san.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 08 Sep 2003 20:30:09 -0600
Subject: Re: Electric Radiator Fan
At sustained speeds of 75 mph, periodically up to 90 mph, I've had not problems
with the Texas Kooler I installed in 2000. One wonders if your radiator was
not properly mounted, or possibly an aftermarket one, which gave rise to your
radiator being holed.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
'65 BJ8
'89 Morgan 4/4
David Smith wrote:
> Fred,
>
> I tried a Texas Kooler and destroyed my radiator with it. It worked fine
>driving around town. But wasn't up to an on-ramp for an LA freeway. The
>problem is that air pressure pulls the fan blade tips forward during rapid
>acceleration. In my case a blade tip caught the lip between the core ant the
>water tank and cut a groove an inch or more into the core. I've noticed that
>all the fans I've looked at since have a very rigid leading edge for the fan
>blades. IMO, the Texas Kooler is defective in design and materials. You lose
>too much clearance, (.375 inches over the stock fan.), more than any other fan
>I've seen. And the the plastic it's made out of is much too soft and
>flexible. I think you should warn purchasers about this fan blade tip
>deflection problem. I'm glad you listed this suggestion, though. I've been
>meaning to contact you about the warranty.
>
> David Smith
> '67 BJ8
>
> Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe@earthlink.net> wrote:
> David,
>
> Before you go thru all of the research for the proper fitting electric fan,
> which will further tax the generator, try a Texas Koooler.
>
> You can get this fan thru the NTAHC for about $45.00 PP. It is a great fan
> and does the job you are looking to get done.
>
> Just a suggestion!
>
> Fred
> '63 BJ7
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From David Smith <bighealeydude at yahoo.com>
From: "David" <dcrawfor@san.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2003 19:53:36 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Electric Radiator Fan
"M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver@sk.sympatico.ca> wrote:
Hi David
At sustained speeds of 75 mph, periodically up to 90 mph, I've had not problems
with the Texas Kooler I installed in 2000. One wonders if your radiator was not
properly mounted, or possibly an aftermarket one, which gave rise to your
radiator being holed.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
'65 BJ8
'89 Morgan 4/4
David Smith wrote:
> Fred,
>
> I tried a Texas Kooler and destroyed my radiator with it. It worked fine
>driving around town. But wasn't up to an on-ramp for an LA freeway. The
>problem is that air pressure pulls the fan blade tips forward during rapid
>acceleration. In my case a blade tip caught the lip between the core ant the
>water tank and cut a groove an inch or more into the core. I've noticed that
>all the fans I've looked at since have a very rigid leading edge for the fan
>blades. IMO, the Texas Kooler is defective in design and materials. You lose
>too much clearance, (.375 inches over the stock fan.), more than any other fan
>I've seen. And the the plastic it's made out of is much too soft and flexible.
>I think you should warn purchasers about this fan blade tip deflection
>problem. I'm glad you listed this suggestion, though. I've been meaning to
>contact you about the warranty.
>
> David Smith
> '67 BJ8
>
> Fred Wescoe wrote:
> David,
>
> Before you go thru all of the research for the proper fitting electric fan,
> which will further tax the generator, try a Texas Koooler.
>
> You can get this fan thru the NTAHC for about $45.00 PP. It is a great fan
> and does the job you are looking to get done.
>
> Just a suggestion!
>
> Fred
> '63 BJ7
>
---------------------------------
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "David" <dcrawfor@san.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 08 Sep 2003 21:06:56 -0600
Subject: Re: Electric Radiator Fan
I personally like the six blade stainless steel flex fan. It does a good
job of cooling & doesn't flex forward. The trailing edges do feather to
reduce fan action at high rpm. Other fans may work as well but I don't
think that an electric fan is really needed.
Dave Russell
BN2
David Smith wrote:
> Fred,
>
> I tried a Texas Kooler and destroyed my radiator with it. It worked
> fine driving around town. But wasn't up to an on-ramp for an LA
> freeway. The problem is that air pressure pulls the fan blade tips
> forward during rapid acceleration. In my case a blade tip caught the
> lip between the core ant the water tank and cut a groove an inch or
> more into the core. I've noticed that all the fans I've looked at
> since have a very rigid leading edge for the fan blades. IMO, the
> Texas Kooler is defective in design and materials. You lose too much
> clearance, (.375 inches over the stock fan.), more than any other fan
> I've seen. And the the plastic it's made out of is much too soft and
> flexible. I think you should warn purchasers about this fan blade
> tip deflection problem. I'm glad you listed this suggestion, though.
> I've been meaning to contact you about the warranty.
>
> David Smith '67 BJ8
>
> Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe@earthlink.net> wrote: David,
>
> Before you go thru all of the research for the proper fitting
> electric fan, which will further tax the generator, try a Texas
> Koooler.
>
> You can get this fan thru the NTAHC for about $45.00 PP. It is a
> great fan and does the job you are looking to get done.
>
> Just a suggestion!
>
> Fred '63 BJ7
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From "Allen Adams" <aadamsjr at earthlink.net>
From: "David Smith" <bighealeydude@yahoo.com>
To: "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2003 20:16:27 -0700
Subject: Re: Electric Radiator Fan
> Fred,
>
> I tried a Texas Kooler and destroyed my radiator with it. It worked fine
driving around town. But wasn't up to an on-ramp for an LA freeway. The
problem is that air pressure pulls the fan blade tips forward during rapid
acceleration. In my case a blade tip caught the lip between the core ant
the water tank and cut a groove an inch or more into the core. I've noticed
that all the fans I've looked at since have a very rigid leading edge for
the fan blades. IMO, the Texas Kooler is defective in design and materials.
You lose too much clearance, (.375 inches over the stock fan.), more than
any other fan I've seen. And the the plastic it's made out of is much too
soft and flexible. I think you should warn purchasers about this fan blade
tip deflection problem. I'm glad you listed this suggestion, though. I've
been meaning to contact you about the warranty.
>
> David Smith
> '67 BJ8
>
> Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe@earthlink.net> wrote:
> David,
>
> Before you go thru all of the research for the proper fitting electric
fan,
> which will further tax the generator, try a Texas Koooler.
>
> You can get this fan thru the NTAHC for about $45.00 PP. It is a great fan
> and does the job you are looking to get done.
>
> Just a suggestion!
>
> Fred
> '63 BJ7
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
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From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "David Smith" <bighealeydude@yahoo.com>
To: "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2003 23:34:33 -0400
Subject: Re: [CAAHC] Car Magazines and sexual dysfunction
So there, C&D's not just about Viagara for men; it puts zip in the crank
for cars, too.
The C&D advertising formula is clearly one of balance: on one page are four
ads, one clearly male, tow automotive, and one well, it depends on what you
need it for: (1) the "Biologist's Pherome gets you more Romance ... Raise
the octane of your aftershave"; (2) a brake pad and rotor ad; (3) an ad for
Bavarian Engine Exchange and yes... (4) a promo from the Sheepskin Experts
for . . . sorry guys, their best seat covers.
At least the sex and superstock ads use interchangeable idioms. The one that
doesn't fit . . . "Stammering didn't keep him off TV", a pitch for the
Stuttering Foundation in Memphis. Well, tha-a-a-t's all folks!.
Allen Miller
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From Rob Westcott <westcotc at earthlink.net>
From: "David Smith" <bighealeydude@yahoo.com>
To: "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 08 Sep 2003 20:38:42 -0700
Subject: Re: Jack Stands
Good luck, be safe. This is not a place to be stingy, too much is a
good thing here.
Rob Westcott
'55 BN1
Skip Besaw wrote:
>
> I plan to use the sissor jack that came with my 3000. to jack it up and
>remove the tires to ship for shaping and rebalancing. I changed a flat Sunday
>and the Jack worked fine.
>
> Looking for source for jack stands that will support car while tires are off.
>Any brand preferred? Any special method for inserting? Thanks
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From Ronald Fine <ronfineesq at earthlink.net>
From: "David Smith" <bighealeydude@yahoo.com>
To: "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 08 Sep 2003 22:20:54 -0700
Subject: Re: Electric Radiator Fan
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From "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl>
From: "David Smith" <bighealeydude@yahoo.com>
To: "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 09:24:52 +0200
Subject: Screw thread size
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
1964 BJ8 29432
1974 BMW 75/6
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "David Smith" <bighealeydude@yahoo.com>
To: "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 01:49:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: re. Electric Radiator Fan
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2003 16:35:58 -0700 (PDT)
From: David Smith <bighealeydude@yahoo.com>
Subject: Electric Radiator Fan
Is there anyone on the list who can give me some
advice on electric radiator fans? ........most
interested in a 14 inch diameter, 2 inch thick SPAL
fan with an air flow of 980 CFM. It draws around 6.5
amps. The generator on my BJ8 supposedly puts out 30
amps at 1,800 RPM......
__________________________________
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "David Smith" <bighealeydude@yahoo.com>
To: "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 04:05:15 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Electric Radiator Fan
Hate to say it. It's not an anomaly. I had the same
thing happen to my BJ8... and my BJ8 has a tight OD
tie rod with NEW bushings.
The reality is I think some of these cars are set up a
little differently than others, and if chassis
measurements aren't exactly like they were when the
cars came out of the factory, you may have a problem.
It's a trade off - Texas cooler sets very close to the
radiator for good ariflow. In the case of my car (and
David's) it just simply sits too close!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Allen Adams <aadamsjr@earthlink.net> wrote:
> David,
> I'm sorry you've had a problem with your radiator.
> Since installing a Texas
> Cooler on my BJ7 it has performed flawlessly.
> Cooling has improved and no
> clearance problems. Considering the number of Texas
> Coolers out there, your
> case is probably an anomaly. Any other opinions?
> Al Adams
> '63 BJ7
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "David Smith" <bighealeydude@yahoo.com>
> To: "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe@earthlink.net>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, September 08, 2003 6:43 PM
> Subject: Re: Electric Radiator Fan
>
>
> > Fred,
> >
> > I tried a Texas Kooler and destroyed my radiator
> with it. It worked fine
> driving around town. But wasn't up to an on-ramp
> for an LA freeway. The
> problem is that air pressure pulls the fan blade
> tips forward during rapid
> acceleration. In my case a blade tip caught the lip
> between the core ant
> the water tank and cut a groove an inch or more into
> the core. I've noticed
> that all the fans I've looked at since have a very
> rigid leading edge for
> the fan blades. IMO, the Texas Kooler is defective
> in design and materials.
> You lose too much clearance, (.375 inches over the
> stock fan.), more than
> any other fan I've seen. And the the plastic it's
> made out of is much too
> soft and flexible. I think you should warn
> purchasers about this fan blade
> tip deflection problem. I'm glad you listed this
> suggestion, though. I've
> been meaning to contact you about the warranty.
> >
> > David Smith
> > '67 BJ8
> >
> > Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe@earthlink.net> wrote:
> > David,
> >
> > Before you go thru all of the research for the
> proper fitting electric
> fan,
> > which will further tax the generator, try a Texas
> Koooler.
> >
> > You can get this fan thru the NTAHC for about
> $45.00 PP. It is a great fan
> > and does the job you are looking to get done.
> >
> > Just a suggestion!
> >
> > Fred
> > '63 BJ7
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site
> design software
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "David Smith" <bighealeydude@yahoo.com>
To: "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 06:06:29 -0500
Subject: Re: Electric Radiator Fan
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From Magnus Karlsson <492karlsson at telia.com>
From: "David Smith" <bighealeydude@yahoo.com>
To: "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 13:35:53 +0200
Subject: Re: Screw thread size
The strange coincident is that you will find that M5 fits perfectly in
a 10-32 threaded hole without retapping.
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "David Smith" <bighealeydude@yahoo.com>
To: "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 07:38:45 -0400
Subject: Re: Electric Radiator Fan
Amen. When my BJ8 was new, I drove it regularly during Dallas summers (100+
degrees) with no overheating problems. Before trying aftermarket solutions,
I'd be sure
o all the gunk has been cleaned out of the engine
o the radiator is flowing properly (a new core is good)
o water pump impeller is intact and turning
o radiator hoses are unobstructed
o the cooling system holds pressure
o all air baffles are in place around the radiator
If the above are O.K., no additional measures should be needed.
--
John Miller
There is no substitute for good manners, except, perhaps, fast reflexes.
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From N0040 at aol.com
From: "David Smith" <bighealeydude@yahoo.com>
To: "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 08:04:09 EDT
Subject: Speedo - Take off Gear
I have a late model BJ8, center shift gear box.
It has a recently replaced angle drive installed. Thinking that was the
reason for the speedo not working. The old unit had a rounded out female
coupling
that should have been square to receive the male end of the cable. Speedo still
does not work when connected to trans. Does operate with drill driving cable.
Could the gear in the trans be bad (that accepts the male end of the angle
drive)?
If so, which gear should be replaced?
Anyone have a spare of that gear available they want to sell?
What is the normal failure point on the speedo?
Thanks and Regards,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
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From "Larry Dickstein" <lonejacklarry at kcweb.net>
From: "David Smith" <bighealeydude@yahoo.com>
To: "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 08:07:09 -0500
Subject: Re: Electric Radiator Fan
Odd! I've had a bootleg "Texas Kooler" (the Hayden kind) for years--it's
been on three separate cars. I've had absolutely no real problems w/ it. I
did notice, however, that the tip of the blade got into the radiator very
very slightly on my first BJ8. That problem was because of some front end
damage from a previous owner which was repaired incorrectly.
If you look at a lot of Healeys w/ stock fans, you will notice there are
some pretty big differences in the fan to radiator clearances.
My guess is that it is due to collision damage repair.
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO (who would not give up my fan)
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From "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe at earthlink.net>
From: "David Smith" <bighealeydude@yahoo.com>
To: "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 09:26:56 -0400
Subject: Jacking and stands
"I plan to use the scissor jack that came with my 3000. to jack it up and
remove the tires to ship for shaping and rebalancing. I changed a flat Sunday
and the Jack worked fine.
Looking for source for jack stands that will support car while tires are off.
Any brand preferred? Any special method for inserting? Thanks"
Skip Besaw, 1967 BJ8
Skip,
Do not use the scissor jack to lift the car to be placed on stands. The jack
will only suffice if you are changing a single tire, one corner at a time. As
you watch the scissor jack, it will lean into the car and begin to tilt off
center, a very dangerous scene.
Go to any local auto store and get a long handled hydraulic pump jack. The
lift capacity will vary between 1 1/2 tons and 4 tons and the lift height will
vary from a low of 4 1/2" to a maximum of 4". Look for one in which the
handle is in 2 sections. I replaced the bolts holding the handle sections
together with spring safety pins. The handle safety pins can be quickly
pulled for easy jack storage in your trunk. The cost will be anywhere between
$50 and $150 bucks. Get 4 jack stands while you are there. I prefer the ones
with large top plates and pins in them, they cannot accidentally be tripped
and dropped down!
This jack will have a large rotating plate as a lifting point and is mounted
on 4 wheels. When used, you will see that the jack will roll into or further
under the car. This gives stability throughout the lifting action.
I always start at the rear of the car. I jack up the rear frame (from the
back) just far enough, about 2 inches, to allow 2, stacked 4" x 4" x 12"
pieces of wood to be placed under each left and right side of the frame. The
rear of the car tilts down as the front is raised and this is the reason for
the stacked 4" x 4" wood. The wood leaves more than enough room to get the
jack under the rear of the car when the front is on stands.
Then, I jack up the front of the car using the center of the cross frame and
place a jack stand under each outside point of the center frame rail. Repeat
the process on the rear of the car.
To put the car back on the floor, reverse the process.
This has always provided me with a very safe, stable method of raising and
properly supporting the car. The jack is easy to transport and has helped
many car guys in the parking lots of meets.
Keep it safe and you will complete the job faster and get back on the road
sooner.
Fred
"63 BJ7
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From "Vink, Graham" <vinkg at fleishman.com>
From: "David Smith" <bighealeydude@yahoo.com>
To: "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 08:38:36 -0500
Subject: Rolling odometer forward - Alfa, non LBC
Is it possible to roll an odometer FORWARD - ie set the mileage HIGHER?
I have an 85 Alfa where I know the actual mileage (confirmed by Carfax)
but the previous owner put in a new instrument cluster with lower miles.
I'd like to have the odometer accurate for resale value.
Thanks all.
Graham
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From Brian Burke <wharf-st at shaw.ca>
From: "David Smith" <bighealeydude@yahoo.com>
To: "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 09 Sep 2003 07:17:49 -0700
Subject: BN1 Motor and Tranny
Brian
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From "Jason Gray" <jcagray at hotmail.com>
From: "David Smith" <bighealeydude@yahoo.com>
To: "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 09 Sep 2003 07:57:36 -0700
Subject: Period Gas Caps
Can anyone provide comment/advice on period or competition gas caps for Big
Healeys? I can't locate anything in the archives nor the Restoration book.
thanks
Jason Gray
57 BN4
Vancouver BC
_________________________________________________________________
STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE*
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "David Smith" <bighealeydude@yahoo.com>
To: "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 09 Sep 2003 08:15:02 -0700
Subject: Re: Screw thread size
We have been sourcing complete windscreen corner bracket kits from AH Spares
in the UK - gives you four new corner brackets, and all new fasteners,
stainless I believe. The kits are not really all that expensive, and they
save a lot of trouble! Use anti-seize compound so it is a lot easier for
the next person!
Cheers,
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 2003 12:24 AM
Subject: Screw thread size
While trying to take apart my BJ8 front screen's metal frame I stumbled
across
a number of very rusty screws, three in every corner, presumably meant to
keep
the front screen frame together in the good old days. Despite penetrating
oil
and a lot of patience, in the end I had to drill most of the screw heads
out.
It will be close to impossible to find new UNF screws here in The
Netherlands,
so I'm considering to replace all screws by stainless steel ones with metric
thread - they're easy to get.
The tricky point will be, of course, whether the present size of the
threaded
holes will allow me to re-tap with M5 thread. Has any lister tried this
before, and can someone give me the decimal dimension of the present thread,
which I believe to be '10-32'?
Thanks in advance, as usual.
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
1964 BJ8 29432
1974 BMW 75/6
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "David Smith" <bighealeydude@yahoo.com>
To: "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 11:23:23 EDT
Subject: Re fans, texas and electric
<< Subject: Re: Electric Radiator Fan
This topic, pro-con of various fans has been nearly beat to death in
past discussions. The only consensus was that the "tie rod" which
connects between the bottom of the transmission & the rear cross member
must be tight & the bushings in good shape. This device prevents the
engine from moving forward & putting the fan into the radiator. >>
My money is on the misplaced radiator, or movable engine. (How does one
observe or confirm the deflection of the fan blades under acceleration?) I've
observed both problems: installation of the fan on a drive train that had no
rear
forward-back stabilizer (amazing how much an engine can move front to rear
under acceleration/deceleration if it isn't fastened in the back), and sloppy
installation of the radiator that allowed the radiator to move slightly under
acceleration. Yes, the clearance is pretty tight, but I'd wager that few if any
instances have been documented of the fan itself deflecting enough to cause
damage.
Re the electric fan. The only situation where it would be useful is when the
car is driven extensively in stop-and-go traffic. Healey friends in Japan and
Hong Kong say an electric fan is an absolute essential, as have friends who've
driven their cars in parades. Under normal use, while the temp will rise when
the car has to pull a long steep grade in dense traffic (like the Grapevine
north of Los Angeles on a Friday night), as long as it doesn't exceed blow the
radiator hoses, you're usually all right running it right up to the end of the
gauge for five or ten miles on a grade. Once you've crested the grade, it
will drop right back down again. The big mistake is to pull off before getting
to
the top, then pulling the radiator cap off in the mistaken notion that the
car is low on water. Then you are dead. Check the radiator hoses before long
trips, check the condition and tension of the fan belt as well, and check the
water level before driving each day, and you should be fine.
Geof Healey is often quoted as noting that when they did the long-distance
records, the cars were run at temps over 212 through entire days on the Salt
Flats, and if he'd had his way, the temp gauges would have had a long band
showing "all right" and no numbers on them at all.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "David Smith" <bighealeydude@yahoo.com>
To: "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 09 Sep 2003 08:43:03 -0700
Subject: Re: Electric Radiator Fan
I and my friends have installed at least a dozen Hayden (texas kooler) fans
over the last few years in our area. We realised with the first one that
there was a potential clearance problem as you describe - the fan blade tips
will flex forward slightly at high rpms and possibly contact the radiator.
The answer (in addition to making sure that the trans stabilizer-rod
bushings were in good shape), was to always move the radiator forward to
increase the clearance. This is easily done by shimming the lower radiator
support brackets forward where they bolt to the upper frame cross-member
with spacers of about 1/2", and simply pulling the upper part of the
radiator as far forward in the slotted upper mounts as possible. No-one
that I know of has had a problem that has done this, and I sort of assumed
that everyone was installing the fans with this modification.
>From experience, I can say that the fans really work well - they move a lot
more air over the core at idle than the stock fan blades, which is exactly
what you need in an idling Healey in hot weather! In fact, we joke that the
fan is strong enough to blow tools off the fender when you are working on
the car with the engine running.
I am currently working on adapting a viscous drive fan hub and fan on my
BJ8 - at the moment I'm in the 'thinking' stages of this. If any other
lister has dabbled with such a project, I wouldn't mind hearing about it.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <bighealeydude@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 2003 4:06 AM
Subject: Re: Electric Radiator Fan
david,
If you destroyed your radiator, it was either due to poor installation or
your rear transmission stabilizer bushings are in bad condition. there are
at least 1500 or more tx koolers installed on healeys over the last 10 years
without any adverse effects. occasionally, there is a random story about a
destroyed radiator which we are always sorry to hear, however, don't blame
the kooler -- blame the installer. My personal TEXAS KOOLER has been on my
BN6 since it went back on the road in '92 and we've covered a lot of road
together.
jerry wall
NTAHC
David Smith wrote:
>
> Fred,
>
> I tried a Texas Kooler and destroyed my radiator with it. It worked fine
driving
> around town. But wasn't up to an on-ramp for an LA freeway. The problem
is that
> air pressure pulls the fan blade tips forward during rapid acceleration.
In my
> case a blade tip caught the lip between the core ant the water tank and
cut a
> groove an inch or more into the core. I've noticed that all the fans
I've looked
> at since have a very rigid leading edge for the fan blades. IMO, the
Texas
> Kooler is defective in design and materials. You lose too much
clearance, (.375
> inches over the stock fan.), more than any other fan I've seen. And the
the
> plastic it's made out of is much too soft and flexible. I think you
should warn
> purchasers about this fan blade tip deflection problem. I'm glad you
listed this
> suggestion, though. I've been meaning to contact you about the warranty.
>
> David Smith
> '67 BJ8
>
> Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe@earthlink.net> wrote:
> David,
>
> Before you go thru all of the research for the proper fitting electric
fan,
> which will further tax the generator, try a Texas Koooler.
>
> You can get this fan thru the NTAHC for about $45.00 PP. It is a great
fan
> and does the job you are looking to get done.
>
> Just a suggestion!
>
> Fred
> '63 BJ7
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "David Smith" <bighealeydude@yahoo.com>
To: "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 09 Sep 2003 09:06:09 -0700
Subject: Re: Speedo - Take off Gear
Been through this more than once!
The usual failure point is the angle drive itself. Since yours in a
replacement, and your speedo works with a drill driving the lower end of the
cable, try running the car in gear with the rear end on jack stands
(observing all safety precautions, of course!) to visually check if the
pinion (on the overdrive) is actually rotating. If it seems to be, double
check by sticking a suitable sized blade screwdriver (with the motor off)
into the square recess in the pinion gear to see if it is slipping.
If it is not, install the angle drive and do the screwdriver test on it. If
it turns out to be a pinion problem, which I would doubt, it's easy enough
to take it off - simply undo its special fixing bolt, and pull it out - (no
need to drain oil).
If it turns out to be an enlarged square cable recess on either the speedo
pinion or the angle drive, I've fixed them by using a small piece of heat
shrink on the cable tip to take up the clearance - don't laugh - it works!
My guess is that it will turn out to be the replacement angle drive slipping
again!
Hope this helps, let us know,
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: <N0040@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 2003 5:04 AM
Subject: Speedo - Take off Gear
Dear Listers,
I have a late model BJ8, center shift gear box.
It has a recently replaced angle drive installed. Thinking that was the
reason for the speedo not working. The old unit had a rounded out female
coupling
that should have been square to receive the male end of the cable. Speedo
still
does not work when connected to trans. Does operate with drill driving
cable.
Could the gear in the trans be bad (that accepts the male end of the angle
drive)?
If so, which gear should be replaced?
Anyone have a spare of that gear available they want to sell?
What is the normal failure point on the speedo?
Thanks and Regards,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
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From Ed Santoro <esantoro at drbc.state.nj.us>
From: "David Smith" <bighealeydude@yahoo.com>
To: "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 09 Sep 2003 12:25:09 -0400
Subject: Re: It runs...and it leaks
Mick VanderPloeg wrote:
> The good news is that my Healey's engine came to life today after a 25 year
> rest. Sounds great & idles nice and smooth. The bad news is that it leaks.
> I know it's supposed to do that, but this leak is coming from the bottom of
> the jet on my rear carb. This is an H type carb for an early BN4, and it was
> professionally rebuilt. I've tried tightening the gland nut, but fuel still
> drips from the jet. It's not running down from the side of the float bowl
> either, I've already checked that. The only other nut I see is the brass nut
> below the gland nut with a spring between the two, but won't I be messing with
> the jet adjustment if I turn that one?
>
> Is there anything fairly simple that I'm missing here, or do I just need to
> bite the bullet and pull the carb off the car? (It would have to be the rear
> carb, with the impossible to reach bottom nut)
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mick Vander Ploeg
> '57 BN4, running and leaking nicely.
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From "James Shope" <healeymanjim at JoiMail.com>
From: "David Smith" <bighealeydude@yahoo.com>
To: "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 09:35:38 -0700
Subject: Re electric fans
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From Rick Snover <rsnover at ix.netcom.com>
From: "David Smith" <bighealeydude@yahoo.com>
To: "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 09 Sep 2003 09:53:52 -0700
Subject: Fwd: Westland Healey
>Subject: Westland Healey
>Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2003 10:23:42 -0700
>From: "Steve \"Rex\" Frank" <rex@alvaka.net>
>To: <rsnover@ix.netcom.com>
>
>Hi,
>
>I have "inherited" a Healey Westland. I think it's a 1950.
>
>I have taken some pictures of it.
>
>http://www.thefranks.net/healey
>
>I think it is beyond my ability to restore it. The dash and gauges have
>been stored inside the house, but the rest of the car has been in the side
>yard for at least 20 years with a cover over it. It was stored in dry
>Southern California. It is currently in a garage in the Seattle,
>Washington area. Do you know anyone who would be interested in restoring
>this car? I'm more interested in seeing it put back together than trying
>to make money on it.
>
>Rex Frank
>Alvaka Networks
>rex@alvaka.net
>(714) 891-2001 x217
--
Rick Snover, San Diego, CA
<http://people.qualcomm.com/rsnover>
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From Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
From: "David Smith" <bighealeydude@yahoo.com>
To: "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 10:14:50 -0700
Subject: car jack and stands
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "David Smith" <bighealeydude@yahoo.com>
To: "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 13:22:45 -0400
Subject: Spriget list
James Lea
Rockport Maine
1962 BT7 II
Midgit
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From David Smith <bighealeydude at yahoo.com>
From: "David Smith" <bighealeydude@yahoo.com>
To: "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 12:19:32 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Electric Radiator Fans (Thank You)
---------------------------------
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "David Smith" <bighealeydude@yahoo.com>
To: "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 09 Sep 2003 16:03:08 -0600
Subject: Re: Spriget list
James Lea wrote:
> Does anyone have the address for the Spriget (sp?) list? Thanks, JL
>
> James Lea
> Rockport Maine
> 1962 BT7 II
>
> Midgit
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "David Smith" <bighealeydude@yahoo.com>
To: "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 09 Sep 2003 16:05:10 -0600
Subject: Re: Spriget list
James Lea wrote:
> Does anyone have the address for the Spriget (sp?) list? Thanks, JL
>
> James Lea
> Rockport Maine
> 1962 BT7 II
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "David Smith" <bighealeydude@yahoo.com>
To: "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 17:44:36 -0500
Subject: Re: Electric Radiator Fan
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From "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe at earthlink.net>
From: "David Smith" <bighealeydude@yahoo.com>
To: "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 19:53:04 -0400
Subject: Horsepower
I have had several discussions in the past and the subject came up again at
the last event. The event is called Somernites Cruise and is held on the 4th
Saturday, each month, from April thru October, in downtown Somerset, Ky.
Classic cars come from all over the country, over 1200 in August, and are
mostly American muscle cars and tricked out trucks. Many of the cars are
original that have been sitting in barns and so on. Some are redone to
degrees here to for unknown to man, why would anyone want or need a TV in the
sun visors? There are events, food and vendors but no judging of any kind, it
is just a get together and a parade of cars about 7:00 PM, thru town.
Thousands of people attend the event and just look at the cars. A few have
even been sold during the show. You can find the event on the net if you are
interested.
There are a number of classic sports cars which show up from time to time,
Alfa's, MGs, Porsches, Triumphs and my Healey.
The "discussion" revolves around horsepower. No one really has any
documentation on the issue, none of the manuals or materials I have refers to
horsepower. Claims abound from each of the sports car owners, none with
anything in writing.
Here is the question; does anyone know the horse power ratings of our cars,
100's and 3000's and what reference material is available to substantiate the
claims. Rather that discuss what I have always thought the figure to be, I
would like the to let the list respond with answers and reference sources for
the HP.
Thanks,
Fred
"63
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From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: "David Smith" <bighealeydude@yahoo.com>
To: "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 18:55:17 -0500
Subject: 1956 BN4 Colors
Thanks
Patton
-------------------------------------
Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
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From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "David Smith" <bighealeydude@yahoo.com>
To: "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 17:01:43 -0700
Subject: Re: Electric Radiator Fan
I've had a stock fan trash a radiator ... bad water pump bearing, if I recall.
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <bighealeydude@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 2003 4:06 AM
Subject: Re: Electric Radiator Fan
> david,
> If you destroyed your radiator, it was either due to poor installation or
>your rear transmission stabilizer bushings
are in bad condition. there are at least 1500 or more tx koolers installed on
healeys over the last 10 years without
any adverse effects. occasionally, there is a random story about a destroyed
radiator which we are always sorry to
hear, however, don't blame the kooler -- blame the installer. My personal
TEXAS KOOLER has been on my BN6 since it went
back on the road in '92 and we've covered a lot of road together.
> jerry wall
> NTAHC
> David Smith wrote:
> >
> > Fred,
> >
> > I tried a Texas Kooler and destroyed my radiator with it. It worked fine
>driving
> > around town. But wasn't up to an on-ramp for an LA freeway. The problem
>is that
> > air pressure pulls the fan blade tips forward during rapid acceleration.
>In my
> > case a blade tip caught the lip between the core ant the water tank and
>cut a
> > groove an inch or more into the core. I've noticed that all the fans I've
>looked
> > at since have a very rigid leading edge for the fan blades. IMO, the Texas
> > Kooler is defective in design and materials. You lose too much clearance,
>(.375
> > inches over the stock fan.), more than any other fan I've seen. And the
>the
> > plastic it's made out of is much too soft and flexible. I think you
>should warn
> > purchasers about this fan blade tip deflection problem. I'm glad you
>listed this
> > suggestion, though. I've been meaning to contact you about the warranty.
> >
> > David Smith
> > '67 BJ8
> >
> > Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe@earthlink.net> wrote:
> > David,
> >
> > Before you go thru all of the research for the proper fitting electric fan,
> > which will further tax the generator, try a Texas Koooler.
> >
> > You can get this fan thru the NTAHC for about $45.00 PP. It is a great fan
> > and does the job you are looking to get done.
> >
> > Just a suggestion!
> >
> > Fred
> > '63 BJ7
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From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: "David Smith" <bighealeydude@yahoo.com>
To: "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 19:59:40 -0400
Subject: Help needed in Philadelphia
So, is there anyone in the Philadelphia area whose willing to do me a huge
favor and stop by this place to identify my parts for these guys? I'd really
like to avoid a ten hour drive or plane flight to go and pick out the Austin
Healey stuff from their pile of unidentified parts, but that's my only other
alternative at this point. If anyone's willing, let me know & I'll fax or
email you the list of what they have. You don't need to pick the parts up and
ship them or anything like that, just point out to them which ones are mine.
Thanks,
Mick Vander Ploeg
57 BN4, chromeless
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "David Smith" <bighealeydude@yahoo.com>
To: "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 19:48:24 -0700
Subject: Re: Electric Radiator Fan
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: John Miller
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 2003 4:38 AM
Subject: Re: Electric Radiator Fan
Amen. When my BJ8 was new, I drove it regularly during Dallas summers (100+
degrees) with no overheating problems. Before trying aftermarket solutions,
I'd be sure
o all the gunk has been cleaned out of the engine
o the radiator is flowing properly (a new core is good)
o water pump impeller is intact and turning
o radiator hoses are unobstructed
o the cooling system holds pressure
o all air baffles are in place around the radiator
If the above are O.K., no additional measures should be needed.
--
John Miller
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "David Smith" <bighealeydude@yahoo.com>
To: "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 19:57:30 -0700
Subject: Re: Rolling odometer forward - Alfa, non LBC
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Vink, Graham
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 2003 6:38 AM
Subject: Rolling odometer forward - Alfa, non LBC
Hello list,
Is it possible to roll an odometer FORWARD - ie set the mileage HIGHER?
I have an 85 Alfa where I know the actual mileage (confirmed by Carfax)
but the previous owner put in a new instrument cluster with lower miles.
I'd like to have the odometer accurate for resale value.
Thanks all.
Graham
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "David Smith" <bighealeydude@yahoo.com>
To: "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 09 Sep 2003 19:00:09 -0600
Subject: Re: Horsepower
See if this helps, I don't know if you will accept it as valid.
http://www.austin-healey-stc.org/specs.htm
Dave Russell
BN2
Fred Wescoe wrote:
> This is an involved and technical question for the list.
>
> The "discussion" revolves around horsepower. No one really has any
> documentation on the issue, none of the manuals or materials I have refers to
> horsepower. Claims abound from each of the sports car owners, none with
> anything in writing.
>
> Here is the question; does anyone know the horse power ratings of our cars,
> 100's and 3000's and what reference material is available to substantiate the
> claims. Rather that discuss what I have always thought the figure to be, I
> would like the to let the list respond with answers and reference sources for
> the HP.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Fred
> "63
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From "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine at hotmail.com>
From: "David Smith" <bighealeydude@yahoo.com>
To: "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 09 Sep 2003 21:21:05 -0400
Subject: FREE samples of "Austin-Healey Magazine"
Just a reminder that the Austin-Healey Club USA still offers a FREE 3-month
trial membership, just for the asking. You'll receive the next three issues
of Austin-Healey Magazine so that you can see, for yourself, what it looks
like and thereby be able to make your own informed decision about joining.
If you haven't seen it lately, I highly encourage you to have a look. We've
been making improvements.
(Please note however, that if you have had a Free Trial Membership within
the past two years, you're not yet eligible for another.)
To receive a Free Trail Membership, just send your name and mailing address
to:
douga@healey.org
Make your subject line "Free Trial Membership" and write your name and
mailing address in the body of the email. That's it!
Thanks. Hope you enjoy.
Reid
Reid Trummel
Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
http://www.healey.org
_________________________________________________________________
Get 10MB of e-mail storage! Sign up for Hotmail Extra Storage.
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From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "David Smith" <bighealeydude@yahoo.com>
To: "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 21:29:01 -0400
Subject: Burlen Fuel Pumps
An interesting alternative to buying a modern non-SU pump is to go for a
Burlen Fuel Systems "electronic" pump, which is from descriptions essentially
an SU style pump with electronics in place of the vulnerable points. Burlen,
which, I gather, is the corporate successor to SI, has an excellent site which
offers pump alternatives for every model Healey. For the 100-4 models, a brand
new electric pump model is available for either positive or negative ground. A
repair kit, with the correct + or -polarity diode, is available for about 40%
the cost. On top of that, there is a new electronic (pointless) pump for each
polarity. Pricing is in GBP, but they take American credit cards. Prices are
competitive with Moss for whatever they sell.
I am going to try the electronic pos gd pump as well as a rebuild kit for the
exiting SU (with diode) as a spare, all for about $180-190 USD. The site is
http://www.burlen.co.uk/catidx.htm
Allen Miller
BN2/M
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "David Smith" <bighealeydude@yahoo.com>
To: "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 09 Sep 2003 18:36:33 -0700
Subject: Re: Horsepower
According to 'Austin-Healey, the Story of the Big Healeys' - by Geoff
Healey:
I would assume that these are the factory horsepower figures.
BN1 - 94BHP @ 4200 RPM
BN2 - same
100M - 110BHP @ 4500 RPM
100S - 132 BHP @ 4700 RPM
BN4 (4 port head) - 101BHP @ 4600 RPM
BN4 (6 port head) - 117BHP @ 4750 RPM
BN6 - same
BN7/BT7 MKI - 124BHP @ 4600 RPM
BN7/BT7 MKII - 132BHP @ 4750RPM
BJ7 - 134 BHP @4750 RPM
BJ8 - 150 BHP @ 5250 RPM
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 2003 4:53 PM
Subject: Horsepower
This is an involved and technical question for the list.
I have had several discussions in the past and the subject came up again at
the last event. The event is called Somernites Cruise and is held on the
4th
Saturday, each month, from April thru October, in downtown Somerset, Ky.
Classic cars come from all over the country, over 1200 in August, and are
mostly American muscle cars and tricked out trucks. Many of the cars are
original that have been sitting in barns and so on. Some are redone to
degrees here to for unknown to man, why would anyone want or need a TV in
the
sun visors? There are events, food and vendors but no judging of any kind,
it
is just a get together and a parade of cars about 7:00 PM, thru town.
Thousands of people attend the event and just look at the cars. A few have
even been sold during the show. You can find the event on the net if you
are
interested.
There are a number of classic sports cars which show up from time to time,
Alfa's, MGs, Porsches, Triumphs and my Healey.
The "discussion" revolves around horsepower. No one really has any
documentation on the issue, none of the manuals or materials I have refers
to
horsepower. Claims abound from each of the sports car owners, none with
anything in writing.
Here is the question; does anyone know the horse power ratings of our cars,
100's and 3000's and what reference material is available to substantiate
the
claims. Rather that discuss what I have always thought the figure to be, I
would like the to let the list respond with answers and reference sources
for
the HP.
Thanks,
Fred
"63
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "David Smith" <bighealeydude@yahoo.com>
To: "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 18:33:32 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Re fans, texas and electric
I'm the healey friend in Hong Kong. I do not use an
electric fan as it will cause the car to boil over in
traffic. A high efficiency radiator core with a high
volume water pump mounted fan (hayden or texas cooler)
keeps the car cool even in stop and go in 90+ weather.
I don't need the electric fan (I used to have one on
there)
Although for my money I'd go with the steel bladed
hayden fan... it doesn't flex forward as much as the
texas cooler.... although it makes a little more
noise!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 9/8/03 8:20:52 PM,
> owner-healeys-digest@autox.team.net
> writes:
>
> << Subject: Re: Electric Radiator Fan
>
> This topic, pro-con of various fans has been nearly
> beat to death in
> past discussions. The only consensus was that the
> "tie rod" which
> connects between the bottom of the transmission &
> the rear cross member
> must be tight & the bushings in good shape. This
> device prevents the
> engine from moving forward & putting the fan into
> the radiator. >>
>
> My money is on the misplaced radiator, or movable
> engine. (How does one
> observe or confirm the deflection of the fan blades
> under acceleration?) I've
> observed both problems: installation of the fan on a
> drive train that had no rear
> forward-back stabilizer (amazing how much an engine
> can move front to rear
> under acceleration/deceleration if it isn't fastened
> in the back), and sloppy
> installation of the radiator that allowed the
> radiator to move slightly under
> acceleration. Yes, the clearance is pretty tight,
> but I'd wager that few if any
> instances have been documented of the fan itself
> deflecting enough to cause
> damage.
>
> Re the electric fan. The only situation where it
> would be useful is when the
> car is driven extensively in stop-and-go traffic.
> Healey friends in Japan and
> Hong Kong say an electric fan is an absolute
> essential, as have friends who've
> driven their cars in parades. Under normal use,
> while the temp will rise when
> the car has to pull a long steep grade in dense
> traffic (like the Grapevine
> north of Los Angeles on a Friday night), as long as
> it doesn't exceed blow the
> radiator hoses, you're usually all right running it
> right up to the end of the
> gauge for five or ten miles on a grade. Once you've
> crested the grade, it
> will drop right back down again. The big mistake is
> to pull off before getting to
> the top, then pulling the radiator cap off in the
> mistaken notion that the
> car is low on water. Then you are dead. Check the
> radiator hoses before long
> trips, check the condition and tension of the fan
> belt as well, and check the
> water level before driving each day, and you should
> be fine.
>
> Geof Healey is often quoted as noting that when they
> did the long-distance
> records, the cars were run at temps over 212 through
> entire days on the Salt
> Flats, and if he'd had his way, the temp gauges
> would have had a long band
> showing "all right" and no numbers on them at all.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
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From carlalony2 at aol.com
From: "David Smith" <bighealeydude@yahoo.com>
To: "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 21:48:11 EDT
Subject: Lost in Lingo
Lony Taylor
1963 BJ-7
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
Classic White.jpg]
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "David Smith" <bighealeydude@yahoo.com>
To: "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 18:48:12 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Electric Radiator Fan
the thing that is very VERY difficult for even the
expert mechanic to understand about the Texas cooler,
is it seems to show sufficient clearance to the core
to operate properly on ALL healeys.
The problem is the upper lip of the radiator, which
most people probably wouldn't even notice, sits very
close to the fan (and this is what I ignored on
installation). the texas cooler will hit this lip,
bend forward, and damage your core in the process.
maybe in flat states like texas it's not an issue, but
in hilly areas (like hong kong or california) when you
are going down a steep hill in gear, at high revs
(2000 +)... and hit a bump... BINGO! and this is with
a good tight tie rod & new bushings.
I'm happy the texas cooler works for you, but I think
everyone should be happy that David and my bad
experience is shared on this list so that people will
know what to look for if they install one of these
fans on their car.
The Texas cooler came with no instructions, and I paid
the price with damage to a very expensive radiator
core. Probably would be a good idea for the NTAHC to
put a small written warning with the fans before
selling them.
Regards,
Alan
--- Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net> wrote:
> and i repeat, as i did several years ago, when you
> raised your same diatribe about your situation --
> you don't have to be a rocket scientist to install a
> fan with the proper clearance between the fan and
> the radiator. with as many solutions as you offer
> to others on the list, physician heal thyself. if i
> remember correctly, your bj8 had some front end
> misalignment problems that were a contributing
> factor to9 your destroyed radiator.
> Blue One Hundred wrote:
> >
> > Allen -
> >
> > Hate to say it. It's not an anomaly. I had the
> same
> > thing happen to my BJ8... and my BJ8 has a tight
> OD
> > tie rod with NEW bushings.
> >
> > The reality is I think some of these cars are set
> up a
> > little differently than others, and if chassis
> > measurements aren't exactly like they were when
> the
> > cars came out of the factory, you may have a
> problem.
> >
> > It's a trade off - Texas cooler sets very close
> to the
> > radiator for good ariflow. In the case of my car
> (and
> > David's) it just simply sits too close!
> >
> > Alan
> >
> > '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
> >
> > --- Allen Adams <aadamsjr@earthlink.net> wrote:
> > > David,
> > > I'm sorry you've had a problem with your
> radiator.
> > > Since installing a Texas
> > > Cooler on my BJ7 it has performed flawlessly.
> > > Cooling has improved and no
> > > clearance problems. Considering the number of
> Texas
> > > Coolers out there, your
> > > case is probably an anomaly. Any other
> opinions?
> > > Al Adams
> > > '63 BJ7
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "David Smith" <bighealeydude@yahoo.com>
> > > To: "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe@earthlink.net>
> > > Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: Monday, September 08, 2003 6:43 PM
> > > Subject: Re: Electric Radiator Fan
> > >
> > >
> > > > Fred,
> > > >
> > > > I tried a Texas Kooler and destroyed my
> radiator
> > > with it. It worked fine
> > > driving around town. But wasn't up to an
> on-ramp
> > > for an LA freeway. The
> > > problem is that air pressure pulls the fan
> blade
> > > tips forward during rapid
> > > acceleration. In my case a blade tip caught
> the lip
> > > between the core ant
> > > the water tank and cut a groove an inch or more
> into
> > > the core. I've noticed
> > > that all the fans I've looked at since have a
> very
> > > rigid leading edge for
> > > the fan blades. IMO, the Texas Kooler is
> defective
> > > in design and materials.
> > > You lose too much clearance, (.375 inches over
> the
> > > stock fan.), more than
> > > any other fan I've seen. And the the plastic
> it's
> > > made out of is much too
> > > soft and flexible. I think you should warn
> > > purchasers about this fan blade
> > > tip deflection problem. I'm glad you listed
> this
> > > suggestion, though. I've
> > > been meaning to contact you about the warranty.
> > > >
> > > > David Smith
> > > > '67 BJ8
> > > >
> > > > Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe@earthlink.net> wrote:
> > > > David,
> > > >
> > > > Before you go thru all of the research for
> the
> > > proper fitting electric
> > > fan,
> > > > which will further tax the generator, try a
> Texas
> > > Koooler.
> > > >
> > > > You can get this fan thru the NTAHC for about
> > > $45.00 PP. It is a great fan
> > > > and does the job you are looking to get done.
> > > >
> > > > Just a suggestion!
> > > >
> > > > Fred
> > > > '63 BJ7
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ---------------------------------
> > > > Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web
> site
> > > design software
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From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at comcast.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 19:03:05 -0700
Subject: Re: Electric Radiator Fan
Jerry -
the thing that is very VERY difficult for even the
expert mechanic to understand about the Texas cooler,
is it seems to show sufficient clearance to the core
to operate properly on ALL healeys.
The problem is the upper lip of the radiator, which
most people probably wouldn't even notice, sits very
close to the fan (and this is what I ignored on
installation). the texas cooler will hit this lip,
bend forward, and damage your core in the process.
maybe in flat states like texas it's not an issue, but
in hilly areas (like hong kong or california) when you
are going down a steep hill in gear, at high revs
(2000 +)... and hit a bump... BINGO! and this is with
a good tight tie rod & new bushings.
I'm happy the texas cooler works for you, but I think
everyone should be happy that David and my bad
experience is shared on this list so that people will
know what to look for if they install one of these
fans on their car.
The Texas cooler came with no instructions, and I paid
the price with damage to a very expensive radiator
core. Probably would be a good idea for the NTAHC to
put a small written warning with the fans before
selling them.
Regards,
Alan
--- Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net> wrote:
> and i repeat, as i did several years ago, when you
> raised your same diatribe about your situation --
> you don't have to be a rocket scientist to install a
> fan with the proper clearance between the fan and
> the radiator. with as many solutions as you offer
> to others on the list, physician heal thyself. if i
> remember correctly, your bj8 had some front end
> misalignment problems that were a contributing
> factor to9 your destroyed radiator.
> Blue One Hundred wrote:
> >
> > Allen -
> >
> > Hate to say it. It's not an anomaly. I had the
> same
> > thing happen to my BJ8... and my BJ8 has a tight
> OD
> > tie rod with NEW bushings.
> >
> > The reality is I think some of these cars are set
> up a
> > little differently than others, and if chassis
> > measurements aren't exactly like they were when
> the
> > cars came out of the factory, you may have a
> problem.
> >
> > It's a trade off - Texas cooler sets very close
> to the
> > radiator for good ariflow. In the case of my car
> (and
> > David's) it just simply sits too close!
> >
> > Alan
> >
> > '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
> >
> > --- Allen Adams <aadamsjr@earthlink.net> wrote:
> > > David,
> > > I'm sorry you've had a problem with your
> radiator.
> > > Since installing a Texas
> > > Cooler on my BJ7 it has performed flawlessly.
> > > Cooling has improved and no
> > > clearance problems. Considering the number of
> Texas
> > > Coolers out there, your
> > > case is probably an anomaly. Any other
> opinions?
> > > Al Adams
> > > '63 BJ7
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "David Smith" <bighealeydude@yahoo.com>
> > > To: "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe@earthlink.net>
> > > Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: Monday, September 08, 2003 6:43 PM
> > > Subject: Re: Electric Radiator Fan
> > >
> > >
> > > > Fred,
> > > >
> > > > I tried a Texas Kooler and destroyed my
> radiator
> > > with it. It worked fine
> > > driving around town. But wasn't up to an
> on-ramp
> > > for an LA freeway. The
> > > problem is that air pressure pulls the fan
> blade
> > > tips forward during rapid
> > > acceleration. In my case a blade tip caught
> the lip
> > > between the core ant
> > > the water tank and cut a groove an inch or more
> into
> > > the core. I've noticed
> > > that all the fans I've looked at since have a
> very
> > > rigid leading edge for
> > > the fan blades. IMO, the Texas Kooler is
> defective
> > > in design and materials.
> > > You lose too much clearance, (.375 inches over
> the
> > > stock fan.), more than
> > > any other fan I've seen. And the the plastic
> it's
> > > made out of is much too
> > > soft and flexible. I think you should warn
> > > purchasers about this fan blade
> > > tip deflection problem. I'm glad you listed
> this
> > > suggestion, though. I've
> > > been meaning to contact you about the warranty.
> > > >
> > > > David Smith
> > > > '67 BJ8
> > > >
> > > > Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe@earthlink.net> wrote:
> > > > David,
> > > >
> > > > Before you go thru all of the research for
> the
> > > proper fitting electric
> > > fan,
> > > > which will further tax the generator, try a
> Texas
> > > Koooler.
> > > >
> > > > You can get this fan thru the NTAHC for about
> > > $45.00 PP. It is a great fan
> > > > and does the job you are looking to get done.
> > > >
> > > > Just a suggestion!
> > > >
> > > > Fred
> > > > '63 BJ7
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ---------------------------------
> > > > Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web
> site
> > > design software
///
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 21:27:33 -0700
Subject: Re: Lost in Lingo
Whether it's 1/8 turn, 1/4 turn, etc. depends on how many flats the nut has.
One flat on a square nut would be 1/4 turn, one flat on a hexagon nut would be
1/6 turn.
If you imagine that there is a reference mark next to the center of one flat
on the nut, just turn the nut back until the adjacent flat lines up with the
reference mark.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: carlalony2@aol.com
To: Healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 2003 6:48 PM
Subject: Lost in Lingo
Back one flat. Is it a 1/8 turn, 1/4 turn, 1/2 turn, 3/4 turn, or a full
turn? Any help would be appreciated.
Lony Taylor
1963 BJ-7
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 09 Sep 2003 20:10:59 -0600
Subject: Re: 1956 BN4 Colors
Interestingly, the Anderson-Moment book shows Reno Red for the 56 BN2 &
Colorado Red for the 56 BN4.
Dave Russell
BN2
Patton Dickson wrote:
> Can anyone point me to a list of colors and combinations that would be
> correct for an early BN4. I looked at Roger Los's site, but he only lists
> COLORADO RED, and I think the early cars had RENO RED.
>
> Thanks
> Patton
>
> -------------------------------------
> Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 21:34:02 -0500
Subject: Re: Lost in Lingo
> Back one flat. Is it a 1/8 turn, 1/4 turn, 1/2 turn, 3/4 turn, or a full
> turn? Any help would be appreciated.
>
>
> Lony Taylor
> 1963 BJ-7
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 21:56:55 -0700
Subject: Re: Electric Radiator Fan
I have no knowledge of Kooler clearance problems with other Healey models, and
this is just my experience and opinion, for what it's worth.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Blue One Hundred
To: Jerry Wall ; healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 2003 6:48 PM
Subject: Re: Electric Radiator Fan
Jerry -
the thing that is very VERY difficult for even the
expert mechanic to understand about the Texas cooler,
is it seems to show sufficient clearance to the core
to operate properly on ALL healeys.
The problem is the upper lip of the radiator, which
most people probably wouldn't even notice, sits very
close to the fan (and this is what I ignored on
installation). the texas cooler will hit this lip,
bend forward, and damage your core in the process.
maybe in flat states like texas it's not an issue, but
in hilly areas (like hong kong or california) when you
are going down a steep hill in gear, at high revs
(2000 +)... and hit a bump... BINGO! and this is with
a good tight tie rod & new bushings.
I'm happy the texas cooler works for you, but I think
everyone should be happy that David and my bad
experience is shared on this list so that people will
know what to look for if they install one of these
fans on their car.
The Texas cooler came with no instructions, and I paid
the price with damage to a very expensive radiator
core. Probably would be a good idea for the NTAHC to
put a small written warning with the fans before
selling them.
Regards,
Alan
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From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 19:50:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Electric Radiator Fan
"In my case a blade tip caught the lip between the core and the water
tank and cut a groove an inch or more into the core."
Have you checked your motor mounts? Has your vehicle had major
structural repairs which may have left your engine to fan clearance
misaligned?
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
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From Drtrite at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 23:15:15 EDT
Subject: Re: Re fans, texas and electric
<< hayden or texas cooler >>
Please don't put information on the list that is not true. The Texas Cooler
is NOT made by Hayden. Hayden quit making this fan a number of years ago.
Don
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From "Greg Wilkinson" <gregwilkinson at adelphia.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 21:00:55 -0700
Subject: RE: Rolling odometer forward - Alfa, non LBC
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> Hello list,
>
> Is it possible to roll an odometer FORWARD - ie set the mileage HIGHER?
> I have an 85 Alfa where I know the actual mileage (confirmed by Carfax)
> but the previous owner put in a new instrument cluster with lower miles.
> I'd like to have the odometer accurate for resale value.
>
> Thanks all.
>
> Graham
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From GSFuqua1 at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 00:23:28 EDT
Subject: Re: Rolling odometer forward - Alfa, non LBC
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 06:30:58 -0400
Subject: RE: Lost in Lingo
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of carlalony2@aol.com
Sent: 9-Sep-03 9:48 PM
To: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Lost in Lingo
Back one flat. Is it a 1/8 turn, 1/4 turn, 1/2 turn, 3/4 turn, or a full
turn? Any help would be appreciated.
Lony Taylor
1963 BJ-7
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From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 07:46:08 -0400
Subject: search engine
allen miller
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 08:45:47 -0400
Subject: Number plate on e-Bay
Will this 'car' show up somewhere for sale?
CB
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From "GuyMark Studios" <guymark.studios at snet.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 09:46:56 -0400
Subject: Lights
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From "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine at hotmail.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 10:11:14 -0400
Subject: Re: Number plate on e-Bay
It is, in my opinion, unfortunate that such an item is being offered for
sale. Such an item has no value other than for use to misrepresent a
vehicle. As we now know, thanks to the author of the auction listing, this
vehicle has been scraped. However, it is likely that this very number plate
will now show up on another car, purporting to be original for that car. It
is via such machinations that the history of our cars is lost and confused
(not that they never did such a thing at the Donald Healey Motor Company
themselves... but that's another story of another time).
It would be interesting to ask the buyer what he intends to do with it. I
would also encourage the 100 Registrar(s) out there to make good note of
this, perhaps even saving the photo of the number plate for future reference
-- you may have some bad news for the "new owner of BN1 224423" when and if
he ever registers it with you. Alas.
Reid
Reid Trummel
Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
http://www.healey.org
_________________________________________________________________
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from the link at the bottom of the list's email scroll down the search page
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 07:56:44 -0700
Subject: RE: search engine
Best,
Greg
67 BJ8
> -----Original Message-----
>
> Does anyone know how to search back farther than July 2003 on the
> archives. It
> seems to work very rapidly, but you still cannot get threads
> older than 7-1.
> I've sent a few inquiries to the list manager, but no replies, so
> I'm not sure
> they are getting to the right person. Any ideas?
>
> Allen miller
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From Chris Dimmock <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2003 01:08:12 +1000
Subject: Re: Electric Radiator Fan
Every time this issue comes up, I think its sort of ironic that those of us
who race, hillclimb and autocross our healeys - and brake violently up and
down hill, and accelerate as fast as possible - as a regular part of
enjoying our Healeys - never seem to have the same fan clearance/ radiator
destruction problems as some other guys do driving around on the road?? I
can't recall anyone who uses their Healey in competition having this issue.
The only time I have ever had a Healey fan contact my radiator was also
accompanied by a great deal of frontal panel and chassis damage.........
Did you fit the fan directly onto the pulley, without any spacers?
I'm not sure what the stock fan to radiator clearance is, but I just went
out & measured that there is 1 inch clearance between the nearest edge of my
5 blade plastic fan and the core of my radiator. There is slightly less than
1" to the "top lip" where the tank meets the core (my core is pretty thick -
the top lip is really just a 'seam lip' - the core is within a whisker as
wide as the top tank).
"cut a groove an inch or more into the core." actually sounds like the
gearbox tie rod bushes are missing, and possibly you also have a broken
engine mount - and I suspect the damage actually happened under
deceleration - when the engine moved forward.
I have urethane (not rubber) engine & gearbox mounts, and urethane gearbox
to chassis tie rod bushes. I would seriously recommend urethane bushes in
the Gearbox to chassis tie rod (and correct adjustment of the tie rod) - new
rubber bushes - if they get oil soaked - last less than a year (mine did
anyway) - whereas urethane is not affected by oil. And the design & location
means that the chassis tie rod bushes will be oil soaked.
Have a close look at what moves under eg. hard braking...
- the radiator is bolted to the chassis
- the engine and gearbox are connected by rubber blocks to the chassis.
Under hard braking - the engine/gearbox move forward, on the rubber engine
mounts, stopped only by the oil soaked rubber bushes of the gearbox tie rod.
The cause of the problem isn't flexing plastic blades - or else you could
simulate the problem in the garage and destroy radiators on demand. The
problem is the engine/ gearbox/ tie rod bushes allowing the engine to move -
under deceleration - which allows the fan to contact the radiator. Fix the
mounts and locators - then see if you can destroy any more radiators.
Best regards
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Blue One Hundred
> Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 2003 6:48 PM
> To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Electric Radiator Fan
>
>
> Jerry -
>
> the thing that is very VERY difficult for even the
> expert mechanic to understand about the Texas cooler,
> is it seems to show sufficient clearance to the core
> to operate properly on ALL healeys.
>
> The problem is the upper lip of the radiator, which
> most people probably wouldn't even notice, sits very
> close to the fan (and this is what I ignored on
> installation). the texas cooler will hit this lip,
> bend forward, and damage your core in the process.
> maybe in flat states like texas it's not an issue, but
> in hilly areas (like hong kong or california) when you
> are going down a steep hill in gear, at high revs
> (2000 +)... and hit a bump... BINGO! and this is with
> a good tight tie rod & new bushings.
>
> I'm happy the texas cooler works for you, but I think
> everyone should be happy that David and my bad
> experience is shared on this list so that people will
> know what to look for if they install one of these
> fans on their car.
>
> The Texas cooler came with no instructions, and I paid
> the price with damage to a very expensive radiator
> core. Probably would be a good idea for the NTAHC to
> put a small written warning with the fans before
> selling them.
>
> Regards,
>
> Alan
> --- Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net> wrote:
> > and i repeat, as i did several years ago, when you
> > raised your same diatribe about your situation --
> > you don't have to be a rocket scientist to install a
> > fan with the proper clearance between the fan and
> > the radiator. with as many solutions as you offer
> > to others on the list, physician heal thyself. if i
> > remember correctly, your bj8 had some front end
> > misalignment problems that were a contributing
> > factor to9 your destroyed radiator.
> > Blue One Hundred wrote:
> > >
> > > Allen -
> > >
> > > Hate to say it. It's not an anomaly. I had the
> > same
> > > thing happen to my BJ8... and my BJ8 has a tight
> > OD
> > > tie rod with NEW bushings.
> > >
> > > The reality is I think some of these cars are set
> > up a
> > > little differently than others, and if chassis
> > > measurements aren't exactly like they were when
> > the
> > > cars came out of the factory, you may have a
> > problem.
> > >
> > > It's a trade off - Texas cooler sets very close
> > to the
> > > radiator for good ariflow. In the case of my car
> > (and
> > > David's) it just simply sits too close!
> > >
> > > Alan
> > >
> > > '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
> > >
> > > --- Allen Adams <aadamsjr@earthlink.net> wrote:
> > > > David,
> > > > I'm sorry you've had a problem with your
> > radiator.
> > > > Since installing a Texas
> > > > Cooler on my BJ7 it has performed flawlessly.
> > > > Cooling has improved and no
> > > > clearance problems. Considering the number of
> > Texas
> > > > Coolers out there, your
> > > > case is probably an anomaly. Any other
> > opinions?
> > > > Al Adams
> > > > '63 BJ7
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: "David Smith" <bighealeydude@yahoo.com>
> > > > To: "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe@earthlink.net>
> > > > Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > > Sent: Monday, September 08, 2003 6:43 PM
> > > > Subject: Re: Electric Radiator Fan
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > Fred,
> > > > >
> > > > > I tried a Texas Kooler and destroyed my
> > radiator
> > > > with it. It worked fine
> > > > driving around town. But wasn't up to an
> > on-ramp
> > > > for an LA freeway. The
> > > > problem is that air pressure pulls the fan
> > blade
> > > > tips forward during rapid
> > > > acceleration. In my case a blade tip caught
> > the lip
> > > > between the core ant
> > > > the water tank and cut a groove an inch or more
> > into
> > > > the core. I've noticed
> > > > that all the fans I've looked at since have a
> > very
> > > > rigid leading edge for
> > > > the fan blades. IMO, the Texas Kooler is
> > defective
> > > > in design and materials.
> > > > You lose too much clearance, (.375 inches over
> > the
> > > > stock fan.), more than
> > > > any other fan I've seen. And the the plastic
> > it's
> > > > made out of is much too
> > > > soft and flexible. I think you should warn
> > > > purchasers about this fan blade
> > > > tip deflection problem. I'm glad you listed
> > this
> > > > suggestion, though. I've
> > > > been meaning to contact you about the warranty.
> > > > >
> > > > > David Smith
> > > > > '67 BJ8
> > > > >
> > > > > Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe@earthlink.net> wrote:
> > > > > David,
> > > > >
> > > > > Before you go thru all of the research for
> > the
> > > > proper fitting electric
> > > > fan,
> > > > > which will further tax the generator, try a
> > Texas
> > > > Koooler.
> > > > >
> > > > > You can get this fan thru the NTAHC for about
> > > > $45.00 PP. It is a great fan
> > > > > and does the job you are looking to get done.
> > > > >
> > > > > Just a suggestion!
> > > > >
> > > > > Fred
> > > > > '63 BJ7
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > ---------------------------------
> > > > > Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web
> > site
> > > > design software
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 11:15:19 EDT
Subject: Colors for BN2
<< Interestingly, the Anderson-Moment book shows Reno Red for the 56 BN2 &
Colorado Red for the 56 BN4.
Dave Russell
BN2 >>
That color information is based on original factory documentation and is
consistent with the research done by Clausager, as well.
Cheers
Gary
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From "Paul Negus" <Paul.Negus at iplbath.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 16:20:09 +0100
Subject: Re: It runs...and it leaks
I can second Ed's suggestion - it took me several attempts to stop my newly
rebuilt carbs from leaking out of these gaskets. The trick of soaking in oil
will expand the cork slightly and should result in success.
Note that the jet has to slide in this gasket every time that the choke is
operated, so you do need a reliable seal at this point.
Regards
Paul
------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 09 Sep 2003 12:25:09 -0400
From: Ed Santoro <esantoro@drbc.state.nj.us>
Subject: Re: It runs...and it leaks
Mick: On the BN4 carbs you can try to remove the brass fitting at the base of
the
carb. Carefully remove the cork gasket and check it for cracks if it looks fine
place in a small quantity of clean motor oil and let it soak overnight. Refit
and
assemble it may stop the leak. Luck, EDS
Mick VanderPloeg wrote:
> The good news is that my Healey's engine came to life today after a 25 year
> rest. Sounds great & idles nice and smooth. The bad news is that it leaks.
> I know it's supposed to do that, but this leak is coming from the bottom of
> the jet on my rear carb. This is an H type carb for an early BN4, and it was
> professionally rebuilt. I've tried tightening the gland nut, but fuel still
> drips from the jet. It's not running down from the side of the float bowl
> either, I've already checked that. The only other nut I see is the brass nut
> below the gland nut with a spring between the two, but won't I be messing with
> the jet adjustment if I turn that one?
>
> Is there anything fairly simple that I'm missing here, or do I just need to
> bite the bullet and pull the carb off the car? (It would have to be the rear
> carb, with the impossible to reach bottom nut)
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mick Vander Ploeg
> '57 BN4, running and leaking nicely.
------------------------------
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From Brian Mix <brianmix at cox.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 08:37:56 -0700
Subject: Re: Number plate on e-Bay
Is roadkill42 one of us?
Brian
At 10:11 AM 9/10/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>>From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
>>Reply-To: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
>>To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
>>Subject: Number plate on e-Bay
>>Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 08:45:47 -0400
>>
>> Check out item # 2432000596 serial number plate BN1 224423
>> Will this 'car' show up somewhere for sale?
>> CB
>
>It is, in my opinion, unfortunate that such an item is being offered for
>sale. Such an item has no value other than for use to misrepresent a
>vehicle. As we now know, thanks to the author of the auction listing,
>this vehicle has been scraped. However, it is likely that this very
>number plate will now show up on another car, purporting to be original
>for that car. It is via such machinations that the history of our cars is
>lost and confused (not that they never did such a thing at the Donald
>Healey Motor Company themselves... but that's another story of another time).
>
>It would be interesting to ask the buyer what he intends to do with it. I
>would also encourage the 100 Registrar(s) out there to make good note of
>this, perhaps even saving the photo of the number plate for future
>reference -- you may have some bad news for the "new owner of BN1 224423"
>when and if he ever registers it with you. Alas.
>
>Reid
>
>Reid Trummel
>Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
>http://www.healey.org
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From Randy Hicks <healey100m at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 12:01:23 -0700
Subject: Re: Number plate on e-Bay
> 2432000596
Grapehair555 is "one of us".
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from mcyl to junction block (or booster if equipped)
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 09:22:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: brake pipe routing and clips
__________________________________
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
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From Rich Holman <rich_holman at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 09:45:03 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Another ID plate
"1958 AUSTIN HEALEY 100-6 VIN #BN4L058129A two seater
6 cylinder Healey for restoration"
__________________________________
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From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 12:45:24 EDT
Subject: Testing coils, age and type of coils, Sports coils and
I have a coil CA 12 in my MkII BT7. It seems, from manual, that I should
have an HA12. Does this matter?
I suppose that the "67" stamped under the "CA 12" indicates date of
manufacture? Isn't that rather old?
(Yes, I have suspicions re. my coil. Its readings were outside those detailed
above and the car is (still) not 100% when being asked to work hard).
I have a Petronix. If I move to a Sports coil, I consider that the higher
output is on the HT side and that there is no increase in juice inside the
distributor ie that the Petonix will be be unaffected. Am I right?
If I get a Sports coil, I'll regap at.......? 30, 35, even 40??
And finally, will I need to change the timing?
Yrs,
Simon.
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From Richard Gordon <HealeyHundred at comcast.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 11:43:46 -0600
Subject: Healey sighting + ID plate
On the cover of the Merrill Lynch Advisor (Summer 2003 issue) is a
photo of an Austin Healey. Title: Should this roadster be in your
portfolio? The financial risks and emotional rewards of investing in
collectibles.
The article isn't to bad.
Richard Gordon
For the keepers of the 100 registry's.
there is currently an auction on ebay for an ID plate for a car that
has been (in the owners words) scrapped.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/
eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2432000596&category=27376
Just in case a car with this ID happens to turn up someday.
Richard
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 13:52:27 -0400
Subject: Re: Number plate on e-Bay
CB
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From "R.J. Denton" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 13:57:30 -0500
Subject: Re: Number plate on e-Bay
Ol' Grumpy
Brian Mix wrote:
> Did anyone think of buying it, and "holding on" to it? It's just a pound.
>
> Is roadkill42 one of us?
>
> Brian
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From MeditionM at netscape.net
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 13:54:09 -0400
Subject: RE: brake pipe routing and clips
joe mulqueen <joemulqueen@yahoo.com> wrote:
>Hello,
>Anyone know the correct/best way to route brake pipes
>across the front frame crossmember? One pipe goes
>from mcyl to junction block (or booster if equipped)
>and the other pipe runs opposite direction to the
>front left wheel. I've seen orig style hairclips but
>also other various clips used. I was thinking the
>clip style that'll hold two pipes but can't find
>someone who sell 'em anyway. My crossmember is new
>with no holes I have a bit of flexibility.
>Thanks for any ideas,
>Joe Mulqueen
>'60 BT7
>Torrance, CA
>
>
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From "waschu2" <waschu2 at charter.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 13:56:57 -0400
Subject: radiator recore
Thanks,
Wayne
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From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 13:23:21 -0500
Subject: RE: Healey sighting + ID plate
Patton
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Richard Gordon
Sent: Wednesday, September 10, 2003 12:44 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Healey sighting + ID plate
For you die hard collectors of everything Healey:
On the cover of the Merrill Lynch Advisor (Summer 2003 issue) is a
photo of an Austin Healey. Title: Should this roadster be in your
portfolio? The financial risks and emotional rewards of investing in
collectibles.
The article isn't to bad.
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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 14:28:25 EDT
Subject: Re: Number plate on e-Bay
Early this morning I recorded the chassis number as scrapped. I'll forward
that to the three official Healey Hundred registrars with my next update.
I'll record the buyers eBay screen name and try to get in touch at the end of
the auction.
Please note that this is a right hand drive number and no indication that it
was an "M" or anything special so, hopefully, someone just wants to modify
this name plate to replace their missing original plate. Benefit of the doubt,
for now, will post results of any contact.
Regards all.
Steve Mickelson
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From m.brouillette at comcast.net
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 18:47:05 +0000
Subject: Re: Number plate on e-Bay
Also, let's be realistic about this. If you get a number plate for a
plain old BN1, why would you want to put it on another car? I could see it if
it was a rare car that the number was attached to, but wouldn't you already
have the numbers for a car already if you had a BN1 to put this plate on? I
got it, someone would have a BN2 that they wanted to make into a BN1 ;-).
Mike Brouillette
59 BT7 (or maybe in the future 59 BN1)
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From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 12:10:24 -0700
Subject: H.D. Radiator
Terry Blubaugh
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From Trmgafun at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 15:21:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Number plate on e-Bay
Scott Helms
===============================
Subject: Re: Number plate on e-Bay
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 14:28:25 EDT
Sender: SMickel950@aol.com
Recipient: cbaustin@sgi.net, HealeyHundred@comcast.net, healeys@autox.team.net,
Hi all:
Early this morning I recorded the chassis number as scrapped. I'll forward
that to the three official Healey Hundred registrars with my next update.
I'll record the buyers eBay screen name and try to get in touch at the end of
the auction.
Subject: Re: Number plate on e-Bay
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 10:11:14 -0400
Sender: "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine@hotmail.com>
Recipient: cbaustin@sgi.net, healeys@autox.team.net
>From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
>Reply-To: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
>To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Number plate on e-Bay
>Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 08:45:47 -0400
>
> Check out item # 2432000596 serial number plate BN1 224423
> Will this 'car' show up somewhere for sale?
> CB
It is, in my opinion, unfortunate that such an item is being offered for
sale. Such an item has no value other than for use to misrepresent a
vehicle. As we now know, thanks to the author of the auction listing, this
vehicle has been scraped. However, it is likely that this very number plate
will now show up on another car, purporting to be original for that car. It
is via such machinations that the history of our cars is lost and confused
(not that they never did such a thing at the Donald Healey Motor Company
themselves... but that's another story of another time).
It would be interesting to ask the buyer what he intends to do with it. I
would also encourage the 100 Registrar(s) out there to make good note of
this, perhaps even saving the photo of the number plate for future reference
-- you may have some bad news for the "new owner of BN1 224423" when and if
he ever registers it with you. Alas.
Reid
Reid Trummel
Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
http://www.healey.org
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 16:02:32 -0400
Subject: Re: Number plate on e-Bay
With the several questionable cars recently on e-Bay, not just BN1 or 2,
and e-Bay being so public, how many suspect 'deals' are being pushed in a
less public environment?
And with the prices parts are bringing, are we sure this car was
'scrapped', as stated.
One question for the 'list'; those of you on other marque lists, does
the same thing happen with, say questionable pedigree for an E-type up for
auction?
Regards,
CB
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 14:29:03 -0600
Subject: Re: Testing coils, age and type of coils, Sports coils and
Dave Russell
BN2
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From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 16:58:15 EDT
Subject: 100/Six colors - Official
DUTONE COLOURS AND TRIM
Healey Blue and Ivory White
Black and Colorado Red
Florida Green and Ivory White
Colorado Red and Black
Ivory White and Black
Primrose and Black
Pacific Green and Florida Green
Pacific Green and Ivory White
Rudy Streng
100/Six Registry
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From David Smith <bighealeydude at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 14:52:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Texas Kooler
Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au> wrote:
Hi David,
Every time this issue comes up, I think its sort of ironic that those of us
who race, hillclimb and autocross our healeys - and brake violently up and
down hill, and accelerate as fast as possible - as a regular part of
enjoying our Healeys - never seem to have the same fan clearance/ radiator
destruction problems as some other guys do driving around on the road?? I
can't recall anyone who uses their Healey in competition having this issue.
The only time I have ever had a Healey fan contact my radiator was also
accompanied by a great deal of frontal panel and chassis damage.........
Did you fit the fan directly onto the pulley, without any spacers?
I'm not sure what the stock fan to radiator clearance is, but I just went
out & measured that there is 1 inch clearance between the nearest edge of my
5 blade plastic fan and the core of my radiator. There is slightly less than
1" to the "top lip" where the tank meets the core (my core is pretty thick -
the top lip is really just a 'seam lip' - the core is within a whisker as
wide as the top tank).
"cut a groove an inch or more into the core." actually sounds like the
gearbox tie rod bushes are missing, and possibly you also have a broken
engine mount - and I suspect the damage actually happened under
deceleration - when the engine moved forward.
I have urethane (not rubber) engine & gearbox mounts, and urethane gearbox
to chassis tie rod bushes. I would seriously recommend urethane bushes in
the Gearbox to chassis tie rod (and correct adjustment of the tie rod) - new
rubber bushes - if they get oil soaked - last less than a year (mine did
anyway) - whereas urethane is not affected by oil. And the design & location
means that the chassis tie rod bushes will be oil soaked.
Have a close look at what moves under eg. hard braking...
- the radiator is bolted to the chassis
- the engine and gearbox are connected by rubber blocks to the chassis.
Under hard braking - the engine/gearbox move forward, on the rubber engine
mounts, stopped only by the oil soaked rubber bushes of the gearbox tie rod.
The cause of the problem isn't flexing plastic blades - or else you could
simulate the problem in the garage and destroy radiators on demand. The
problem is the engine/ gearbox/ tie rod bushes allowing the engine to move -
under deceleration - which allows the fan to contact the radiator. Fix the
mounts and locators - then see if you can destroy any more radiators.
Best regards
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
---------------------------------
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
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from the Atlas F1 board:
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 15:44:45 -0700
Subject: Healey racing driver
Firstly, describing driving a Healey in the wet: "Just like having a bunk-up
in a hammock, with roller skates on." and, upon receiving from Healey a new
set of overalls: "Like Westminster Abbey - no ballroom."
Ken Freese
65 BJ8 (I choose Healey tires for best wet performance!!!)
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From "Larry Dickstein" <lonejacklarry at kcweb.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 17:48:49 -0500
Subject: Re: Texas Kooler
Sometimes, a person has to stand up and take responsibility for his own
actions. There's not much of that going around these days, however. You
put it on your car and you should have done a little measuring while you
installed it.
You had it installed for you? There's the guy you should question.
The fan works on 99.9 % of the BJ8's in the free world and I'd still bet you
have some sloppily repaired collision damage up front.
Why should everyone else be responsible for a problem that Stevie Wonder
could have seen coming?
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2003 09:13:32 +1000
Subject: RE: Healey racing driver
Paul Hawkins was very much an Australian who always called a spade a bloody
shovel.
Yes he did drive for the DHMC and described driving Joe Armour's 3000 at
Sebring in 1965 as like "having trying to have sex with a fat lady in a
hammock."
He was also behind the wheel of the Works 3000 in the Castrol film "Mountain
Legend." Although he did race a 100S extensively here in Australia during the
'50s.
There is another story about Hawkins when he was stopped by Australian Customs
on his way back into Australia for bring back too much Scotch Whisky into the
country. So he figured that he couldn't be stopped if he drank it prior to
passing through the Customs gate.
The stories are legend about Paul Hawkins and worthy of a book just in
themselves.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
ps My remembrances are with my American friends on this day.
-----Original Message-----
From: Freese, Ken [mailto:Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com]
Sent: Thursday, September 11, 2003 8:45 AM
To: 'healeys'
Subject: Healey racing driver
from the Atlas F1 board:
Ah, Australianisms! In his autobiography, Donald Healey mentions Paul
Hawkins, who worked for him for a while as a mechanic in Healey's Grosvenor
Street showrooms, and includes two further delightful quotes.
Firstly, describing driving a Healey in the wet: "Just like having a bunk-up
in a hammock, with roller skates on." and, upon receiving from Healey a new
set of overalls: "Like Westminster Abbey - no ballroom."
Ken Freese
65 BJ8 (I choose Healey tires for best wet performance!!!)
**********************************************************************
This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain
privileged information or confidential information or both. If you
are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender.
**********************************************************************
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 16:17:48 -0700
Subject: RE: Healey racing driver
-----Original Message-----
From: Quinn, Patrick [mailto:Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au]
Sent: Wednesday, September 10, 2003 4:14 PM
To: Freese, Ken; healeys
Subject: RE: Healey racing driver
G'day
Paul Hawkins was very much an Australian who always called a spade a bloody
shovel.
Yes he did drive for the DHMC and described driving Joe Armour's 3000 at
Sebring in 1965 as like "having trying to have sex with a fat lady in a
hammock."
He was also behind the wheel of the Works 3000 in the Castrol film "Mountain
Legend." Although he did race a 100S extensively here in Australia during
the '50s.
There is another story about Hawkins when he was stopped by Australian
Customs on his way back into Australia for bring back too much Scotch Whisky
into the country. So he figured that he couldn't be stopped if he drank it
prior to passing through the Customs gate.
The stories are legend about Paul Hawkins and worthy of a book just in
themselves.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
ps My remembrances are with my American friends on this day.
-----Original Message-----
From: Freese, Ken [mailto:Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com]
Sent: Thursday, September 11, 2003 8:45 AM
To: 'healeys'
Subject: Healey racing driver
from the Atlas F1 board:
Ah, Australianisms! In his autobiography, Donald Healey mentions Paul
Hawkins, who worked for him for a while as a mechanic in Healey's Grosvenor
Street showrooms, and includes two further delightful quotes.
Firstly, describing driving a Healey in the wet: "Just like having a bunk-up
in a hammock, with roller skates on." and, upon receiving from Healey a new
set of overalls: "Like Westminster Abbey - no ballroom."
Ken Freese
65 BJ8 (I choose Healey tires for best wet performance!!!)
**********************************************************************
This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain
privileged information or confidential information or both. If you
are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender.
**********************************************************************
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From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 19:21:02 -0400
Subject: Re: It runs...and it leaks
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Negus" <Paul.Negus@iplbath.com>
To: "Healey List (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 10, 2003 11:20 AM
Subject: Re: It runs...and it leaks
> Mick
>
> I can second Ed's suggestion - it took me several attempts to stop my
newly rebuilt carbs from leaking out of these gaskets. The trick of soaking
in oil will expand the cork slightly and should result in success.
>
> Note that the jet has to slide in this gasket every time that the choke is
operated, so you do need a reliable seal at this point.
>
> Regards
>
> Paul
> ------------------------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 09 Sep 2003 12:25:09 -0400
> From: Ed Santoro <esantoro@drbc.state.nj.us>
> Subject: Re: It runs...and it leaks
>
> Mick: On the BN4 carbs you can try to remove the brass fitting at the
base of the
> carb. Carefully remove the cork gasket and check it for cracks if it looks
fine
> place in a small quantity of clean motor oil and let it soak overnight.
Refit and
> assemble it may stop the leak. Luck, EDS
>
> Mick VanderPloeg wrote:
>
> > The good news is that my Healey's engine came to life today after a 25
year
> > rest. Sounds great & idles nice and smooth. The bad news is that it
leaks.
> > I know it's supposed to do that, but this leak is coming from the bottom
of
> > the jet on my rear carb. This is an H type carb for an early BN4, and
it was
> > professionally rebuilt. I've tried tightening the gland nut, but fuel
still
> > drips from the jet. It's not running down from the side of the float
bowl
> > either, I've already checked that. The only other nut I see is the
brass nut
> > below the gland nut with a spring between the two, but won't I be
messing with
> > the jet adjustment if I turn that one?
> >
> > Is there anything fairly simple that I'm missing here, or do I just need
to
> > bite the bullet and pull the carb off the car? (It would have to be the
rear
> > carb, with the impossible to reach bottom nut)
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Mick Vander Ploeg
> > '57 BN4, running and leaking nicely.
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 18:25:57 -0500
Subject: Re: Texas Kooler
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From Meemeb at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 19:55:28 EDT
Subject: Rebuilt Engine Start Up
Both the engine and transmission have been in my garage since they were
rebuilt and I assume everything was properly lubricated during the reassembly
process. Thanks in advance for any advice or stories of problems others have
encountered during this phase of their restorations. I sure don't want to ruin
anything at this stage of the game.
Bernie
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 19:17:27 -0700
Subject: Last BJ8 to the U.S.
Alert lister Healeygal has inquired whether the BRG BJ8 currently for sale on
eBay (HBJ8U/43020G) was the last car shipped to the U.S. from the factory. As
it turns out, yes it was. All of the remaining BJ8s after that VIN were for
the home (UK) market. This one is the seventh car from the end of Big Healey
production.
Somebody buy it and donate it to me, please.
Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666 (#6361 from end of production)
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 20:33:15 EDT
Subject: Re: Rebuilt Engine Start Up
It'll be fine..
In a message dated 9/10/03 5:03:09 PM, Meemeb@aol.com writes:
> I posted this to the list a few days ago and got no responses. Can anyone
> give me some words of wisdom and things I should beware of when starting a
> rebuilt engine and transmission that was rebuilt about seven years ago and
> has not
> been used?
> I am looking for input on the best way to prepare the engine for start up
> and
> how to run the transmission during the start up process to insure that I
> don't do any damage to either.
>
> Both the engine and transmission have been in my garage since they were
> rebuilt and I assume everything was properly lubricated during the
> reassembly
> process. Thanks in advance for any advice or stories of problems others
> have
> encountered during this phase of their restorations. I sure don't want to
> ruin
> anything at this stage of the game.
>
> Bernie
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 17:52:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Electric Radiator Fan
If I mount the Hayden style six-blade metal fan
without spacers, there is plenty of space between the
fan and the radiator. No problem.
The problem is with the plastic fan called a Texas
Cooler. It has a built in spacer (actually the blades
are mounted forward of the mounting hub's plane),
mounting the fan very close to the radiator in some
cars (like mine). This issue + when you rev the motor
over 2000 RPM you can see the T.C. blade tips flex
forward a significant amount (up to 3/4 of an inch I'd
say). The old hayden fan flexes a little too, but not
nearly as much (maybe a 1/4 inch at most).
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au> wrote:
> Hi David,
>
> Every time this issue comes up, I think its sort of
> ironic that those of us
> who race, hillclimb and autocross our healeys - and
> brake violently up and
> down hill, and accelerate as fast as possible - as a
> regular part of
> enjoying our Healeys - never seem to have the same
> fan clearance/ radiator
> destruction problems as some other guys do driving
> around on the road?? I
> can't recall anyone who uses their Healey in
> competition having this issue.
> The only time I have ever had a Healey fan contact
> my radiator was also
> accompanied by a great deal of frontal panel and
> chassis damage.........
>
> Did you fit the fan directly onto the pulley,
> without any spacers?
>
> I'm not sure what the stock fan to radiator
> clearance is, but I just went
> out & measured that there is 1 inch clearance
> between the nearest edge of my
> 5 blade plastic fan and the core of my radiator.
> There is slightly less than
> 1" to the "top lip" where the tank meets the core
> (my core is pretty thick -
> the top lip is really just a 'seam lip' - the core
> is within a whisker as
> wide as the top tank).
>
> "cut a groove an inch or more into the core."
> actually sounds like the
> gearbox tie rod bushes are missing, and possibly you
> also have a broken
> engine mount - and I suspect the damage actually
> happened under
> deceleration - when the engine moved forward.
>
> I have urethane (not rubber) engine & gearbox
> mounts, and urethane gearbox
> to chassis tie rod bushes. I would seriously
> recommend urethane bushes in
> the Gearbox to chassis tie rod (and correct
> adjustment of the tie rod) - new
> rubber bushes - if they get oil soaked - last less
> than a year (mine did
> anyway) - whereas urethane is not affected by oil.
> And the design & location
> means that the chassis tie rod bushes will be oil
> soaked.
>
> Have a close look at what moves under eg. hard
> braking...
>
> - the radiator is bolted to the chassis
> - the engine and gearbox are connected by rubber
> blocks to the chassis.
>
> Under hard braking - the engine/gearbox move
> forward, on the rubber engine
> mounts, stopped only by the oil soaked rubber bushes
> of the gearbox tie rod.
>
> The cause of the problem isn't flexing plastic
> blades - or else you could
> simulate the problem in the garage and destroy
> radiators on demand. The
> problem is the engine/ gearbox/ tie rod bushes
> allowing the engine to move -
> under deceleration - which allows the fan to contact
> the radiator. Fix the
> mounts and locators - then see if you can destroy
> any more radiators.
>
> Best regards
>
> Chris
> ______________________________________
>
> Chris Dimmock
> Sydney Australia
>
> http://www.myaustinhealey.com
> ______________________________________
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> > [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of
> Blue One Hundred
> > Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 2003 6:48 PM
> > To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: Electric Radiator Fan
> >
> >
> > Jerry -
> >
> > the thing that is very VERY difficult for even the
> > expert mechanic to understand about the Texas
> cooler,
> > is it seems to show sufficient clearance to the
> core
> > to operate properly on ALL healeys.
> >
> > The problem is the upper lip of the radiator,
> which
> > most people probably wouldn't even notice, sits
> very
> > close to the fan (and this is what I ignored on
> > installation). the texas cooler will hit this
> lip,
> > bend forward, and damage your core in the process.
> > maybe in flat states like texas it's not an issue,
> but
> > in hilly areas (like hong kong or california) when
> you
> > are going down a steep hill in gear, at high revs
> > (2000 +)... and hit a bump... BINGO! and this is
> with
> > a good tight tie rod & new bushings.
> >
> > I'm happy the texas cooler works for you, but I
> think
> > everyone should be happy that David and my bad
> > experience is shared on this list so that people
> will
> > know what to look for if they install one of these
> > fans on their car.
> >
> > The Texas cooler came with no instructions, and I
> paid
> > the price with damage to a very expensive radiator
> > core. Probably would be a good idea for the NTAHC
> to
> > put a small written warning with the fans before
> > selling them.
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Alan
> > --- Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net> wrote:
> > > and i repeat, as i did several years ago, when
> you
> > > raised your same diatribe about your situation
> --
> > > you don't have to be a rocket scientist to
> install a
> > > fan with the proper clearance between the fan
> and
> > > the radiator. with as many solutions as you
> offer
> > > to others on the list, physician heal thyself.
> if i
> > > remember correctly, your bj8 had some front end
> > > misalignment problems that were a contributing
> > > factor to9 your destroyed radiator.
> > > Blue One Hundred wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Allen -
> > > >
> > > > Hate to say it. It's not an anomaly. I had
> the
> > > same
> > > > thing happen to my BJ8... and my BJ8 has a
> tight
> > > OD
> > > > tie rod with NEW bushings.
> > > >
> > > > The reality is I think some of these cars are
> set
> > > up a
> > > > little differently than others, and if
> chassis
> > > > measurements aren't exactly like they were
> when
> > > the
> > > > cars came out of the factory, you may have a
> > > problem.
> > > >
> > > > It's a trade off - Texas cooler sets very
> close
> > > to the
> > > > radiator for good ariflow. In the case of my
> car
> > > (and
> > > > David's) it just simply sits too close!
> > > >
> > > > Alan
> > > >
> > > > '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
> > > >
> > > > --- Allen Adams <aadamsjr@earthlink.net>
> wrote:
> > > > > David,
> > > > > I'm sorry you've had a problem with your
> > > radiator.
> > > > > Since installing a Texas
> > > > > Cooler on my BJ7 it has performed
> flawlessly.
>
=== message truncated ===
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 17:55:34 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Texas Kooler
Yeah, but what you are talking about is not a warning
is it? I think David's point is entirely justifiable.
He's not asking for much.
FYI my T.C. came with no instructions at all.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net> wrote:
> david,
> you failed to mention the instruction sheet also
> says now is a good time to check your stabilizer
> bushings which obviously you didn't. remember the
> old parable, a word to the wise should be sufficient
> ?
> i could have come out to ca and installed it for
> you, however, that costs more than $45.
> perhaps you should just enjoy your healey and let
> some one else take care of the mechanicals.
> jerry
> David Smith wrote:
> >
> > Chris,
> >
> > Thank you for your response. I'm responding to
> you posting because you made a
> > very important point. And that is how easy it
> would be to incorporate your
> > comments, as well as the comments of others, into
> the instructions for the Texas
> > Kooler. Jerry Wall and the NTAHC could simply
> cut and paste, do some simple
> > editing, put everything on a single sheet of
> paper with the word "WARNING" at the
> > top, and slip it into the box with the fan. Had
> they done this after the first
> > discussion of this problem had taken place on the
> list. I would hold the
> > blameless. As it stands now, their only warning
> is " maintain adequate clearance
> > between the kooler and the radiator". The NTAHC
> is selling this fan to pay for
> > their social activities with other people's
> money. IMO, they should meet the
> > same level of responsibility as any other
> commercial vendors or spot running
> > their "commercials" on this list.
> >
> > David
> >
> >
> > Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au> wrote:
> > Hi David,
> >
> > Every time this issue comes up, I think its sort
> of ironic that those of us
> > who race, hillclimb and autocross our healeys -
> and brake violently up and
> > down hill, and accelerate as fast as possible -
> as a regular part of
> > enjoying our Healeys - never seem to have the
> same fan clearance/ radiator
> > destruction problems as some other guys do
> driving around on the road?? I
> > can't recall anyone who uses their Healey in
> competition having this issue.
> > The only time I have ever had a Healey fan
> contact my radiator was also
> > accompanied by a great deal of frontal panel and
> chassis damage.........
> >
> > Did you fit the fan directly onto the pulley,
> without any spacers?
> >
> > I'm not sure what the stock fan to radiator
> clearance is, but I just went
> > out & measured that there is 1 inch clearance
> between the nearest edge of my
> > 5 blade plastic fan and the core of my radiator.
> There is slightly less than
> > 1" to the "top lip" where the tank meets the core
> (my core is pretty thick -
> > the top lip is really just a 'seam lip' - the
> core is within a whisker as
> > wide as the top tank).
> >
> > "cut a groove an inch or more into the core."
> actually sounds like the
> > gearbox tie rod bushes are missing, and possibly
> you also have a broken
> > engine mount - and I suspect the damage actually
> happened under
> > deceleration - when the engine moved forward.
> >
> > I have urethane (not rubber) engine & gearbox
> mounts, and urethane gearbox
> > to chassis tie rod bushes. I would seriously
> recommend urethane bushes in
> > the Gearbox to chassis tie rod (and correct
> adjustment of the tie rod) - new
> > rubber bushes - if they get oil soaked - last
> less than a year (mine did
> > anyway) - whereas urethane is not affected by
> oil. And the design & location
> > means that the chassis tie rod bushes will be oil
> soaked.
> >
> > Have a close look at what moves under eg. hard
> braking...
> >
> > - the radiator is bolted to the chassis
> > - the engine and gearbox are connected by rubber
> blocks to the chassis.
> >
> > Under hard braking - the engine/gearbox move
> forward, on the rubber engine
> > mounts, stopped only by the oil soaked rubber
> bushes of the gearbox tie rod.
> >
> > The cause of the problem isn't flexing plastic
> blades - or else you could
> > simulate the problem in the garage and destroy
> radiators on demand. The
> > problem is the engine/ gearbox/ tie rod bushes
> allowing the engine to move -
> > under deceleration - which allows the fan to
> contact the radiator. Fix the
> > mounts and locators - then see if you can destroy
> any more radiators.
> >
> > Best regards
> >
> > Chris
> > ______________________________________
> >
> > Chris Dimmock
> > Sydney Australia
> >
> > http://www.myaustinhealey.com
> > ______________________________________
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site
> design software
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 19:27:16 -0600
Subject: Re: Rebuilt Engine Start Up
There can be some pretty elaborate procedures that people go through for
this.
Be sure to fill the oil filter first, pour oil into it until full &
replace. I would just remove the plugs, put some oil in each cylinder, &
crank it over until oil pressure shows on the gage. Replace the plugs &
start it.
If pressure doesn't build up fairly soon while cranking (a minute or so)
you can prefill the oil system by disconnecting the oil pressure gage
hose at the hose to hard line connection & squirting about a half quart
of oil into the disconnected end of the hose.
During the cranking you can check for leaks, fuel overflow & spark.
If you have a new cam & or lifters, keep it running at about 2500 rpm
for about 10 minutes. This helps to put additional splash lubrication on
the cam & lifters for the first critical minutes of breakin.
Check coolant level as you go.
For the transmission make sure that it is full of whatever oil you
choose. No special breakin. With the transmission in neutral & the
engine turning the input shaft will be turning the gears.
Dave Russell
BN2
Meemeb@aol.com wrote:
> I posted this to the list a few days ago and got no responses. Can anyone
> give me some words of wisdom and things I should beware of when starting a
> rebuilt engine and transmission that was rebuilt about seven years ago and
>has not
> been used?
> I am looking for input on the best way to prepare the engine for start up and
> how to run the transmission during the start up process to insure that I
> don't do any damage to either.
>
> Both the engine and transmission have been in my garage since they were
> rebuilt and I assume everything was properly lubricated during the reassembly
> process. Thanks in advance for any advice or stories of problems others have
> encountered during this phase of their restorations. I sure don't want to
>ruin
> anything at this stage of the game.
>
> Bernie
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 18:36:11 -0700
Subject: Re: Rebuilt Engine Start Up
Okay - I'll give it a try.
The gearbox overdrive unit should be no problem - just fill it with the oil
that you are going to use to the full mark on the dipstick. You may have to
top it off after the oil pump in the o/d starts circulating oil - this will
only happen when the output shaft is moving - I usually jack the rear on
stands and run through the gears after the engine is started and running, or
at a later date.
For the engine: It wouldn't hurt to verify the valve timing - ie make sure
that with #1 piston at TDC on its firing stroke, that the distributor rotor
is pointing to the wire for the #1 plug. As part of the same operation, I
would verify the valve lash settings.
The distributor should be timed in the ballpark statically if you are
running points, and make sure that the points gap is correct. Assume that
the carb setting are also in the ballpark to start the car, and run the fuel
pump ahead of time to check and correct any fuel leaks.
Make sure that the whatever oil you are using is at the full mark in the
crankcase, and crank the engine in short bursts with the plugs out - 20
seconds or so, until oil pressure shows on the gauge - this could take
awhile, and it assumes that whoever rebuilt the engine properly primed the
oil pump! If no oil pressure, let the engine sit for at least a few hours
in the hope that the pump will self prime - they often do, and try the
process again.
Once you have a flicker on the oil pressure gauge, it means that the oil
filter is full, and the oil galleries are being pressurized, and you will
get full oil pressure immediately on start-up, which is important. At this
point, top up the crankcase to the full mark, install the plugs, and go for
it!
I usually crank the engine again with the plugs installed and the coil wire
disconnected until the oil gauge flickers, and then quickly connect the coil
wire and start the engine immediately after. Keep a watch on the oil
pressure - you want to see it immediately that the engine fires for the
first time. (Another thing I do, especially if it cold or even cool, is to
fill the cooling system with the hottest water I can from the tap
immediately before starting, to get the thing warming as quickly as
possible - admittedly, this may be a bit of overkill!)
I don't think I've forgotten anything crucial - maybe some other listers
could point it out if I have.
Let us know how it goes!
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Originainl Message -----
From: <Meemeb@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 10, 2003 4:55 PM
Subject: Rebuilt Engine Start Up
I posted this to the list a few days ago and got no responses. Can anyone
give me some words of wisdom and things I should beware of when starting a
rebuilt engine and transmission that was rebuilt about seven years ago and
has not
been used?
I am looking for input on the best way to prepare the engine for start up
and
how to run the transmission during the start up process to insure that I
don't do any damage to either.
Both the engine and transmission have been in my garage since they were
rebuilt and I assume everything was properly lubricated during the
reassembly
process. Thanks in advance for any advice or stories of problems others
have
encountered during this phase of their restorations. I sure don't want to
ruin
anything at this stage of the game.
Bernie
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 18:54:54 -0700
Subject: Re: Rebuilt Engine Start Up
Please contact me off List if you want the details.
John Snyder
I posted this to the list a few days ago and got no responses. Can anyone
give me some words of wisdom and things I should beware of when starting a
rebuilt engine and transmission that was rebuilt about seven years ago and
has not been used?
I am looking for input on the best way to prepare the engine for start up
and how to run the transmission during the start up process to insure that
I don't do any damage to either. Both the engine and transmission have been
in my garage since they were
> rebuilt and I assume everything was properly lubricated during the
reassembly process. Thanks in advance for any advice or stories of
problems others have encountered during this phase of their restorations. I
sure don't want to ruin anything at this stage of the game.
Bernie
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From Jon McLeroy <jfm at ballistic.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 21:20:28 -0500
Subject: Re: Starting and Running Rebuilt Engine and Transmission
I would first use our running in oil for the first several hundred miles to
seat the rings and properly break in the engine.
Of course I recommend Penrite Oil products, which my company Classic Auto
Lubes is the sole distributor for the US.
Our replacement for 30W motor oil is our HPR 30 (20W/60).
Our Gear Oil 30 is a non-detergent multi viscosity (20W/60) and is
formulated for the gear box and overdrive.
Please let me have your mailing address and I will send you a brochure
packet including a Penrite Lubrication Recommendation Sheet for your Healey.
Thanks and God Bless
Jon
Classic Auto Lubes
12803 CR 1222
Tyler, Tx. 75709
Ph: 903-561-4858
Fax: 903-561-7177
Email: jfm@ballistic.com
www.classicautolubes.com
At 05:36 PM 9/8/03 -0400, you wrote:
>I am getting close to firing up my BJ8 for the first time since the engine
>and transmission were rebuilt. Both were professionally rebuilt when I first
>began restoring my Healey about seven years ago. I know that I should have
>delayed the rebuild of the engine and transmission till last, but now I am
>looking
>for input on the best way to prepare the engine for start up and how to run
>the transmission during the start up process to insure that I don't do any
>damage to either.
>
>For the engine:
>Should I put a little oil in the cylinders and turn the engine over a few
>times without spark plugs?
>Should I remove the oil filter and fill it with oil?
>Should I use a 20-50 weight oil in the engine for this first start up or
>should I use a 30 weight then drain it later and replace with 20-50 weight.
>Should I use a regular oil, synthetic oil or a blend?
>How long should I let the engine run and at what RPM for the initial start
>up?
>
>For the Transmission:
>What gear should the transmission be in during its break in period and at
>what engine RPM should I let the transmission break in?
>Is 30 weight non detergent the best oil to use during this intial use of the
>rebuilt transmission?
>
>Both the engine and transmission have been in my garage since they were
>rebuilt and I assume everything was properly lubricated during the reassembly
>process. Thanks in advance for any advice or stories of problems others have
>encountered during this phase of their restorations. I sure don't want to
>ruin
>anything at this stage of the game.
>
>Bernie
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from Moss. No leaks at all now.
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 22:29:20 -0400
Subject: Re: It runs...and it leaks
Dave
Mick VanderPloeg wrote:
>Looks like the cork seal is the culprit, which is probably my own fault, not
>the rebuilder's. This restoration hasn't exactly gone according to schedule
>(big surprise), so the rebuilt carbs sat dry for several months longer than
>I had anticipated.
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From "Gil Rockwell" <gilrockwell at comcast.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 23:29:02 -0400
Subject: Radiator Question
I've enjoyed reading the discussions over the past week or so. I am new to
the Healey world and am considering buying a 67 3000 that has a leaking
radiator. Any ideas on the cost of a new one?
Thanks,
Gil Rockwell
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From "ukhealey_GRADWELL" <enquiries at ukhealey.co.uk>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2003 09:12:47 +0100
Subject: Re: Last BJ8 to the U.S.
Steve Jowett UK HEALEY
AUSTIN HEALEY - MG - TRIUMPH - JAGUAR
ASTON MARTIN
www.ukhealey.co.uk
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2003 06:30:34 -0400
Subject: RE: Last BJ8 to the U.S.
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2003 06:38:20 -0400
Subject: AHX12 in The Targa Newfoundland
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2003 05:49:22 -0500
Subject: Re: Texas Kooler
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From "waschu2" <waschu2 at charter.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 13:56:57 -0400
Subject: radiator recore
Thanks,
Wayne
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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2003 07:00:49 -0600
Subject: Re: AHX12 in The Targa Newfoundland
Do we use the actors expression "break a leg", ....... or best of luck!
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
Michael Salter wrote:
> Here we go again.
> AHX12 and crew should be assembled in St John's Newfoundland on Saturday
> and ready to roll.
> The car shipped out on Tuesday complete with hardtop and side screens
> and should be ready and waiting when we get there.
> For those interested, results should be available at :
> http://www.rallyscoring.com/results/Resu2003/Targa/index.htm
> This year I will try to avoid any errant Volvos.
>
> Mike Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
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From "Fred Anderson" <fandy at mchsi.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2003 10:04:39 -0500
Subject: Cylinder Head
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From "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine at hotmail.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2003 11:23:51 -0400
Subject: BN1 Windshield Frame Top Piece Needed
"I'm looking for the cromed top channel that fits on top of the windshield
glass for a BN1. Any ideas? Along with a broken windshield, this is what
gets bent when your grandson takes the AH out for a spin without locking
down the hood first. Thank you. Wayne - Massachusetts."
If anyone can help Wayne, please reply to him directly at gascapx@msn.com.
Thank you.
Reid
Reid Trummel
Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
http://www.healey.org
_________________________________________________________________
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2003 11:45:27 -0400
Subject: RE: Cylinder Head
No sealant required.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
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From "waschu2" <waschu2 at charter.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 13:56:57 -0400
Subject: radiator recore
Thanks,
Wayne
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From "Tracy Drummond" <bighealey at charter.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2003 13:39:06 -0400
Subject: Re: BN1 Windshield Frame Top Piece Needed
Get the young man to sign an optional insurance clause
prior to his next spin. This should be accompnied by a
pre-spin checklist. Had you such an agreement in place
before the "spin" you would now have a pro-bono landscaper
/ handyman / laborer for the next year. You might also
check major-domo for forums such as grandparenting,
anger-management and
just-say-no-to-people-who-want-to-just-take-a-short-spin-in-your-baby.
It was help with the grandson you were after right?
Tracy
On Thu, 11 Sep 2003 11:23:51 -0400
"Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine@hotmail.com> wrote:
>A fellow Healeyista writes:
>
>"I'm looking for the cromed top channel that fits on top
>of the windshield glass for a BN1. Any ideas? Along
>with a broken windshield, this is what gets bent when
>your grandson takes the AH out for a spin without locking
>down the hood first. Thank you. Wayne - Massachusetts."
>
>If anyone can help Wayne, please reply to him directly at
>gascapx@msn.com. Thank you.
>
>Reid
>Reid Trummel
>Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
>http://www.healey.org
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Send and receive larger attachments with Hotmail Extra
>Storage.
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From Mogfrog1 at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2003 16:06:47 EDT
Subject: seat leather
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From "David" <dcrawfor at san.rr.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2003 13:45:59 -0700
Subject: Re: seat leather
Don't have seats - but I do have both original red BN-1 side curtains and the
storage bag for them. They're 50 years old but not in terrible condition.
Interested?
David C
San Diego, California
----- Original Message -----
From: Mogfrog1@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, September 11, 2003 1:06 PM
Subject: seat leather
Hello All, another off the wall request. I am in need of a a decent seat
bottom cover in red for any pre-BJ8 big Healey. I will be making repairs to
the
original seats of my very original BN1. I am not restoring this car, which
has
been off the road since 1968, but trying to bring it back the best that I
can,
maintaining the great patina that it has. I am interested in a seat bottom
or
back or both that may have some flaws, faded to orange/red, with some life
left. What I am looking for would most likely be the passenger seat leather
of a
car that was treated to a new interior. But, what have you. Anything
considered, cash paid! I am not trying to just get by in this car with some
old used
parts. I am honestly just trying to sympathetically bring it back to life.
Thanks in advance,
John
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From "waschu2" <waschu2 at charter.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 13:56:57 -0400
Subject: radiator recore
Thanks,
Wayne
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From Rohan Marr <rohan at marketocracy.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Jerry Wall; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2003 15:21:26 -0700
Subject: BN4 Spare Tire Strap Chrome Staple Location Help
I am finally back into tidying up some overlooked features on my
Longbridge built (Oct 56) BN4. Since I have owned the car it has been
missing all the equipment to secure the spare tire in the bonnet
(trunk). I now have everything I need and am about to fit it all into
place, but my one question is where exactly to drill holes to place the
chrome staple that the leather strap runs through? I have looked
through all my books and photos but I cannot see an exact position, but
I do understand the general whereabouts. I have also looked at the car
but due to repairs in the rear section there are no telltale old holes.
So here is my request:
If anyone has a good photo inside & underneath that area so I can see
all those details I would appreciate a look if possible.
Things like where exactly does is go, do I drill holes, does it fix
through the armacord etc?
Any advice will be well received. If not I may wait for this weekends
Palo Alto show and have a look at some examples, but I was hoping to
have it done for that reason.
Thanks in advance.
Rohan
*******************************
Rohan Marr
('56 Longbridge BN4-O/28579)
aka 'Hellouise'
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: <Mogfrog1@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2003 22:09:39 -0400
Subject: seat leather
> Hello All, another off the wall request. I am in need of a a decent seat
> bottom cover in red for any pre-BJ8 big Healey. I will be making repairs
to the
> original seats of my very original BN1. I am not restoring this car,
which has
> been off the road since 1968, but trying to bring it back the best that I
can,
> maintaining the great patina that it has. I am interested in a seat bottom
or
> back or both that may have some flaws, faded to orange/red, with some life
> left. What I am looking for would most likely be the passenger seat
leather of a
> car that was treated to a new interior. But, what have you. Anything
> considered, cash paid! I am not trying to just get by in this car with
some old used
> parts. I am honestly just trying to sympathetically bring it back to life.
> Thanks in advance,
> John
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From "matt wilson" <mwilson18 at cox.net>
From: <Mogfrog1@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2003 19:33:12 -0700
Subject: Austin Healey 3000 Muffler Question
Anyway if I was going to "upgrade" mufflers which mufflers might I consider
and where might they be procured? This is in now way being brought on by
anything Fast and Furious related. My goal is simply to get this Healey to
pipe up appropraitely. Oh and I guess I should say that I am hoping for a
muffler that will mount directly into the rest of my otherwise fine stainless
steel exhaust.
Best Regards,
Matt Wilson
1960 AH 3000 BT7
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: <Mogfrog1@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2003 21:59:15 -0600
Subject: Re: Austin Healey 3000 Muffler Question
I don't have exact info on the specific muffler to use.
I HAVE noted quite a few people saying that the stainless steel mufflers
don't sound as good as the standard mufflers. Something about different
resonances between the two types of material.
Dave Russell
matt wilson wrote:
> Dear Forum-
> I have been thinking about changing out the stainless muffler that was
> installed onto my stock 1960 AH 3000 BT7 5 years ago. Ever since putting this
> exhaust on the car the note has been hugely muffled and frankly doesn't sound
> like it used to.
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From Hoylehouse at aol.com
From: <Mogfrog1@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2003 06:54:50 EDT
Subject: FAN IN RADIATOR
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from Moss.
From: <Mogfrog1@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2003 09:12:37 -0700
Subject: Re: Austin Healey 3000 Muffler Question
John Snyder
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
Cc: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 11, 2003 8:59 PM
Subject: Re: Austin Healey 3000 Muffler Question
> Matt,
> I don't have exact info on the specific muffler to use. I HAVE noted quite
a few people saying that the stainless steel mufflers
don't sound as good as the standard mufflers. Something about different
resonances between the two types of material.
>
> Dave Russell
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From "Tracy Drummond" <bighealey at charter.net>
From: <Mogfrog1@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2003 12:31:45 -0400
Subject: Re: Austin Healey 3000 Muffler Question
I was one of the folks comparing exhaust tones up in
Eureka. My BT7 has the same (quiet) system with about 1500
miles on it now. I have not noticed any change in the
sound. But then I never heard it with an original system
either. I do notice quite a difference when a BJ8 cam is
on a motor. I believe that it is not only the exhaust
system but the unique characteristics of each motor that
results in each car's sound.
John Turney's green rally 100/6 has a side out system and
the BJ8 cam and sounds remarkably less tame than mine.
They all sound good to me.
Tracy
On Fri, 12 Sep 2003 09:12:37 -0700
"John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com> wrote:
>I too was disappointed in the sound of the stainless
>steel muffler I
>installed on my BN7 MK2 during its restoration. It was
>too quiet. The good
>news is that after about 2000 miles, it changed its tone,
>and now the car
>has a beautiful sound. At the West Coast meet in Eureka,
>the car received
>compliments on its sound. Maybe I just got lucky. Mine
>is a Falcon system
>from Moss.
>
>John Snyder
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
>To: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
>Cc: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Thursday, September 11, 2003 8:59 PM
>Subject: Re: Austin Healey 3000 Muffler Question
>
>
>> Matt,
>
>> I don't have exact info on the specific muffler to use.
>>I HAVE noted quite
>a few people saying that the stainless steel mufflers
> don't sound as good as the standard mufflers. Something
>about different
>resonances between the two types of material.
>>
>> Dave Russell
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: <Mogfrog1@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2003 12:52:06 -0400
Subject: Re: Austin Healey 3000 Muffler Question
James Lea
Rockport Maine
1962 BT7 II
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From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: <Mogfrog1@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2003 10:15:09 -0700
Subject: Re: Austin Healey 3000 Muffler Question
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
Cc: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 12, 2003 9:12 AM
Subject: Re: Austin Healey 3000 Muffler Question
> I too was disappointed in the sound of the stainless steel muffler I
> installed on my BN7 MK2 during its restoration. It was too quiet. The good
> news is that after about 2000 miles, it changed its tone, and now the car
> has a beautiful sound. At the West Coast meet in Eureka, the car received
> compliments on its sound. Maybe I just got lucky. Mine is a Falcon system
> from Moss.
>
> John Snyder
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: <Mogfrog1@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2003 11:49:07 -0600
Subject: Re: Austin Healey 3000 Muffler Question
Why would you want side pipes?
In my experience the noise right beside your ear becomes intolerable
after an hour or so of driving. I suspect that you would end up wearing
ear plugs. I have done both side & rear exit & the rear exit is much
more pleasant to drive.
In race cars with side exit the driver is wearing a helmet plus ear
plugs usually.
Dave Russell
BN2
James Lea wrote:
> On the subject of mufflers, is it possible to put side pipes on a BT7 and
> still retain the stock muffler or should I go with headers and a new system?
> JL
>
>
> James Lea
> Rockport Maine
> 1962 BT7 II
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From Trmgafun at aol.com
From: <Mogfrog1@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2003 13:48:52 -0400
Subject: Events Needed
I am beginning an early search for 2004 British car related events so that I
can begin listing them on the various British car related activities listings
that I manage. If you have information that you would like to have posted to
promote your event, please supply me with the following information to help
simplify my job of listing it.
Name of event
Date(s) of event
Location of event
Description of event
Club(s) assiciated with event
Website associated with event
Contact information
In exchange for adding your event to my listings, I would like to ask that you
take the time to please add the following event listing to your calendar....
Event name: British Car Week
Date: May 22 - 30, 2004
Location: Planet Earth (everywhere there's a British car)
Description: Annual British car awareness week intended for spreading awareness
of classic British automobiles and motorcycles.
Club association: Any British car club that promotes British cars.
Website: http://users.arczip.com/zntech/britishcarweek.html
Contact: BritCarWeek@arczip.com
As always, thanks to all for your continued support! Feel free to pass this
message to any other lists or message boards.
Scott Helms
Northern Indiana USA
Information can be sent to: BritCarWeek@arczip.com
http://users.arczip.com/zntech/events.html
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: <Mogfrog1@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2003 14:06:03 -0400
Subject: Re: Austin Healey 3000 Muffler Question
James Lea
Rockport Maine
1962 BT7 II
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From Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
From: <Mogfrog1@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2003 11:13:43 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: OT Desperately looking for car for a teenager
__________________________________
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: <Mogfrog1@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2003 17:05:11 -0400
Subject: Re: Austin Healey 3000 Muffler Question
John wrote:
> I too was disappointed in the sound of the stainless steel muffler I
> installed on my BN7 MK2 during its restoration. It was too quiet. The
good
> news is that after about 2000 miles, it changed its tone, and now the car
> has a beautiful sound. At the West Coast meet in Eureka, the car received
> compliments on its sound. Maybe I just got lucky. Mine is a Falcon
system
> from Moss.
>
> John Snyder
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
> To: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
> Cc: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, September 11, 2003 8:59 PM
> Subject: Re: Austin Healey 3000 Muffler Question
>
>
> > Matt,
>
> > I don't have exact info on the specific muffler to use. I HAVE noted
quite
> a few people saying that the stainless steel mufflers
> don't sound as good as the standard mufflers. Something about different
> resonances between the two types of material.
> >
> > Dave Russell
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: <Mogfrog1@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2003 17:27:28 EDT
Subject: Re: Austin Healey 3000 Muffler Question
> most of you are remembering old mufflers with all the stuffing blown out
>
>
Rich--
And we also could hear a lot better back then.... I now run a large diameter
DW muffler that exits in front of the rear wheel. I love the loud, brash
thumping sound of the exhaust, though I am careful to remove my hearing aids
before starting the car.
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: <Mogfrog1@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2003 18:06:40 -0400
Subject: RE: Austin Healey 3000 Muffler Question
Peter Schauss
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of matt wilson
Sent: Thursday, September 11, 2003 10:33 PM
To: Healey Forum
Subject: Austin Healey 3000 Muffler Question
Dear Forum-
I have been thinking about changing out the stainless muffler that was
installed onto my stock 1960 AH 3000 BT7 5 years ago. Ever since putting
this
exhaust on the car the note has been hugely muffled and frankly doesn't
sound
like it used to.
Anyway if I was going to "upgrade" mufflers which mufflers might I consider
and where might they be procured? This is in now way being brought on by
anything Fast and Furious related. My goal is simply to get this Healey to
pipe up appropraitely. Oh and I guess I should say that I am hoping for a
muffler that will mount directly into the rest of my otherwise fine
stainless
steel exhaust.
Best Regards,
Matt Wilson
1960 AH 3000 BT7
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From William Moyer <William.Moyer at millersville.edu>
From: <Mogfrog1@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2003 18:08:47 -0400
Subject: RE: Austin Healey 3000 Muffler Question
Well, maybe, but I remember when I put my new stainless steel exhaust on my
BJ7 and it sounded just like it does today, 10 years later. Rumble, rumble,
rumble. In fact, after struggling with it and using 4 by 4 timbers to lever
it into place I was pretty tired and sweaty when Brad, my son, came into the
garage after I was done as the car was running and said, "Aren't you going
to put a muffler on it?" I almost poured my Fosters over his head, but that
would have been alcohol abuse. I got the system, headers to tailpipe, from
Healey Surgeons, don't know who they got it from.
Bill Moyer, BJ7 - Chimera
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From "scott willis" <ahpowered at hotmail.com>
From: <Mogfrog1@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2003 18:03:43 -0500
Subject: Re: Austin Healey 3000 Muffler Question
>From: Awgertoo@aol.com
>Reply-To: Awgertoo@aol.com
>To: richchrysler@quickclic.net, johnahsn@olypen.com, rusd@velocitus.net,
>mwilson18@cox.net
>CC: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: Austin Healey 3000 Muffler Question
>Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2003 17:27:28 EDT
>
>In a message dated 9/12/2003 5:16:43 PM Eastern Standard Time,
>richchrysler@quickclic.net writes:
>
> > most of you are remembering old mufflers with all the stuffing blown out
> >
> >
>
>
>Rich--
>
>And we also could hear a lot better back then.... I now run a large
>diameter
>DW muffler that exits in front of the rear wheel. I love the loud, brash
>thumping sound of the exhaust, though I am careful to remove my hearing
>aids
>before starting the car.
>
_________________________________________________________________
Compare Cable, DSL or Satellite plans: As low as $29.95.
https://broadband.msn.com
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From "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: <Mogfrog1@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2003 20:49:50 -0400
Subject: fuel tank color
Allen Miller
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: <Mogfrog1@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2003 19:41:36 -0600
Subject: Re: fuel tank color
Dave Russell
BN2
Allen C. Miller, Jr. wrote:
> What is the original color of 100-4 fuel tanks? Someone coated ours with
> apshaltum, which I've removed. It served as an excellent outside coating, but
> sticks to the underside of the trunk liner. When we cleaned it off with
> solvents , there was no color beneath, just an oxidized galvanized coating.
> Were the tanks original bare galvanized?
>
> Allen Miller
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: <Mogfrog1@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2003 22:03:56 EDT
Subject: Re: Austin Healey 3000 Muffler Question
> What is DW?
Denis Welch--but the large-bore exhaust system is matched to a larger
manifold and corresponding head.
Best--Michael
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From "Jerry Goodman" <Jerry.Goodman at comcast.net>
From: <Mogfrog1@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2003 20:41:08 -0500
Subject: sprite registery
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From Richard Wegner <rwegner at synapse.net>
From: <Mogfrog1@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2003 21:25:56 -0400
Subject: BJ8 Speedometer cable
I am doing some work on a friend's BJ8 and one thing he mentioned was
that his speedometer stopped working. I have disconnected the cable
from the back of the gauge and it does not move at all when I drive
the car. I suspect the cable is broken off at the end that goes in
the transmission drive. Anyone know if you can just buy a new cable
to fit inside the housing or do I have to buy a whole new speedometer
cable?
Thanks,
Richard
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: <Mogfrog1@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2003 22:38:37 EDT
Subject: Re: Rolling odometer forward - Alfa, non LBC
Actually, most will only go forward. The trick used to be to run them forward
enough so they turn over and you come full circle to a lower mileage.
Rick
San Diego.
In a message dated 9/9/03 9:08:00 PM, gregwilkinson@adelphia.net writes:
> > Hello list,
> >
> > Is it possible to roll an odometer FORWARD - ie set the mileage HIGHER?
> > I have an 85 Alfa where I know the actual mileage (confirmed by Carfax)
> > but the previous owner put in a new instrument cluster with lower
miles.
> > I'd like to have the odometer accurate for resale value.
> >
> > Thanks all.
> >
> > Graham
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From Dave Carpenter <d.carpenter7 at verizon.net>
From: <Mogfrog1@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2003 23:01:27 -0400
Subject: Re mufflers
I've looked at the stock system a couple times and gave thought to using
cherry bomb glass packs on a BJ8. Four of them should give a bit of
sound with out too much rasp. My son's Neon has a cherry bomb and
another performance muffler and it sounds good for a four cylinder.
Dave
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From Dave Carpenter <d.carpenter7 at verizon.net>
From: <Mogfrog1@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2003 23:07:33 -0400
Subject: Re: fuel tank color
> Mine is black and I have no reason to believe it has ever been out of
> the car or repainted.
>
> Dave
> '67 BJ8
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: <Mogfrog1@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2003 21:27:15 -0600
Subject: Re: BJ8 Speedometer cable
Are you sure? I would pull the inner cable completely out & inspect it.
If it is broken there will be a round end instead of the normal square
end. I say this because the problem may be in the angle drive at the
transmission. You will need to check the angle drive anyway. If the
cable is broken you will need to work on the drive to get the broken end
out. It is easiest to remove the transmission cover & work from the top.
Speedometer repair shops used to have inner cable by the yards. they
just cut it to length & form the ends. However, a complete new cable is
only about $16.
Dave Russell
BN2
Richard Wegner wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I am doing some work on a friend's BJ8 and one thing he mentioned was
> that his speedometer stopped working. I have disconnected the cable
> from the back of the gauge and it does not move at all when I drive the
> car. I suspect the cable is broken off at the end that goes in the
> transmission drive. Anyone know if you can just buy a new cable to fit
> inside the housing or do I have to buy a whole new speedometer cable?
>
> Thanks,
> Richard
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: <Mogfrog1@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2003 21:59:44 -0600
Subject: Re: Rolling odometer forward - Alfa, non LBC
The correct way is to take the speedo out of its can, release the spring
fingers on the wheels & turn them to the new reading. If you have never
been inside of a speedo you will probably have problems. First is
getting it out of the can. The chrome bezel can be turned to release it
& the glass. The odo reset shaft has to be disconnected. Kind of a
touchy job. Next you have to figure out how to release the spring
fingers to turn the wheels.
For a description of how the odo works go here & check the lower part of
the page.
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/speedo/st101.htm
Good luck,
Dave Russell
BN2
WilKo@aol.com wrote:
> Ferris Beuller's Day Off is a good example of how to run it forward.
>
> Actually, most will only go forward. The trick used to be to run them forward
> enough so they turn over and you come full circle to a lower mileage.
>
> Rick
> San Diego.
>
>
> In a message dated 9/9/03 9:08:00 PM, gregwilkinson@adelphia.net writes:
>
>
>
>>> Hello list,
>>>
>>> Is it possible to roll an odometer FORWARD - ie set the mileage HIGHER?
>>> I have an 85 Alfa where I know the actual mileage (confirmed by Carfax)
>>> but the previous owner put in a new instrument cluster with lower
>>
> miles.
>
>>> I'd like to have the odometer accurate for resale value.
>>>
>>> Thanks all.
>>>
>>> Graham
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From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: <Mogfrog1@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2003 22:10:31 -0700
Subject: Re: Re mufflers
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Carpenter" <d.carpenter7@verizon.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 12, 2003 8:01 PM
Subject: Re mufflers
> Forgot to remove the dang trailer. Forgive me if this is a duplicate
> posting.
>
> I've looked at the stock system a couple times and gave thought to using
> cherry bomb glass packs on a BJ8. Four of them should give a bit of
> sound with out too much rasp. My son's Neon has a cherry bomb and
> another performance muffler and it sounds good for a four cylinder.
>
> Dave
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From Charlie Stewart <charlie-stewart at sbcglobal.net>
From: <Mogfrog1@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2003 06:51:23 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Two Piece Dash
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From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: <Mogfrog1@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2003 07:58:51 -0700
Subject: Airline Humor (NOT HEALEY-RELATED)
Airline Humor
After every flight, pilots fill out a form called a gripe sheet which
conveys to the mechanics problems encountered
with the aircraft during the flight that need repair or correction. The
mechanics read and correct the problem and then
respond in writing on the lower half of the form what remedial action was
taken. The pilot reviews the gripe sheets
before the next flight. Never let it be said that ground crews and engineers
lack a sense of humor.
Here are some actual logged maintenance complaints and problems as submitted
by Qantas pilots and the solution
recorded by maintenance engineers. By the way, Qantas is the only major airline
that has never had an accident.
(P = The problem logged by the pilot.)
(S = The solution and action taken by the engineers.)
P: Left inside main tire almost needs replacement.
S: Almost replaced left inside main tire
P: Test flight OK, except auto-land very rough.
S: Auto-land not installed on this aircraft.
P: Something loose in cockpit.
S: Something tightened in cockpit.
P: Dead bugs on windshield.
S: Live bugs on backorder.
P: Autopilot in altitude-hold mode produces a 200 feet per minute descent.
S: Cannot reproduce problem on ground..
P: Evidence of leak on right main landing gear.
S: Evidence removed.
P: DME volume unbelievably loud.
S: DME volume set to more believable level.
P: Friction locks cause throttle levers to stick.
S: That's what they're there for.
P: IFF inoperative.
S: IFF always inoperative in OFF mode.
P: Suspected crack in windshield.
S: Suspect you're right.
P: Number 3 engine missing.
S: Engine found on right wing after brief search.
P: Aircraft handles funny.
S: Aircraft warned to straighten up, fly right, and be serious.
P: Target radar hums.
S: Reprogrammed target radar with lyrics.
P: Mouse in cockpit.
S: Cat installed.
P: Noise coming from under instrument panel. Sounds like a midget pounding on
something with a hammer.
S: Took hammer away from midget
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: <Mogfrog1@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2003 12:01:05 EDT
Subject: Re: Two Piece Dash
Welcome back...hope you don't have to sell your Healey.
John Wheatley (1986) and Anders Clausager (1990) both list chassis BN1 151795
as the change point to a one-piece facia.
Wheatley lists December 1953 while Clausager says February 1954.
Clausager says it was body number 1855.
The Anderson/Moment (2000) book list body number 1855 and December 1953.
Wheatley, Clausager and Anderson/Moment all list chassis 149930 as the change
point from adjustable steering. Wheatley lists the chassis as BN1L.
Clausager and Anderson/Moment say it was body number 1001. All list it as
December
1953.
I'm showing your car as built in November 1953 so we would certainly expect
it to have the two-piece facia and the adjustable steering. I only have about
40 cars in my little list that are earlier than yours, so I'm not surprised
that you haven't seen any other two-piece facias.
Regards.
Steve Mickelson
In a message dated 9/13/2003 6:53:22 AM Pacific Standard Time,
charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net writes:
> I was wondering if a two piece dash would add to the asking price. I
> haven't seen another Healey with this type of dash before (car shows or books
>and
> I have tons of Healey books!). I do have a have a book called; How to
> Restore British Sports Cars by Jay Lamm. He mentions it in a diagram drawing
>on
> page 108. The drawing has the center cluster flopped forward... I'm guessing
> it's hinged at the bottom. I also have an adjustable steering column... did
> they end these two items on the early Healey at the same time? At what body
> number did this end? Do these two items make this a more desirable car?
>
> Thanks,
> Charlie
> Dallas, TX
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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: <Mogfrog1@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2003 12:15:46 EDT
Subject: Re: Two Piece Dash-Continued
You car is obviously more valuable to those buyers that are concerned about
authenticity than if it were not "period-correct". It's also got a "rarity"
factor, being an early car, but overall price will probably be determined by
condition.
Steve Mickelson
In a message dated 9/13/2003 6:53:22 AM Pacific Standard Time,
charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net writes:
> but I was wondering if a two piece dash would add to the asking price.
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From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: <Mogfrog1@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2003 13:39:37 -0500
Subject: Approximate Build date? BN4 L 37718
Thanks
Patton
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: <Mogfrog1@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2003 13:45:15 -0600
Subject: Re: Approximate Build date? BN4 L 37718
I would estimate that it was built between Feb. 1957 & May 1957 at
Longbridge. Maybe someone else can be more specific.
Dave Russell
BN2
Patton Dickson wrote:
> Anyone venture to quess approximatlly when, and at what plant (Longbridge
> and Abingdon)
> BN4 L 37718 was built. I'm just curious, I'll buy the BMHIT certificate if
> I get the car.
>
> Thanks
> Patton
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From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: <Mogfrog1@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2003 16:35:28 EDT
Subject: Re: Approximate Build date? BN4 L 37718
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From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: <Mogfrog1@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2003 21:01:04 -0400
Subject: Re: Approximate Build date? BN4 L 37718
----- Original Message -----
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: "'healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 13, 2003 2:39 PM
Subject: Approximate Build date? BN4 L 37718
> Anyone venture to quess approximatlly when, and at what plant (Longbridge
> and Abingdon)
> BN4 L 37718 was built. I'm just curious, I'll buy the BMHIT certificate
if
> I get the car.
>
> Thanks
> Patton
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From "Jim Lesher" <cleona44 at hotmail.com>
From: <Mogfrog1@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2003 21:24:57 -0400
Subject: Re: Approximate Build date? BN4 L 37718
Jim Lesher
>From: CAWS52803@aol.com
>Reply-To: CAWS52803@aol.com
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: Approximate Build date? BN4 L 37718
>Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2003 16:35:28 EDT
>
>I have BN4 36684 with a build date of 13 March 1957
>Rudy Streng
>Lenoir, NC
>100/Six Registrar
>
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_________________________________________________________________
Try MSN Messenger 6.0 with integrated webcam functionality!
http://www.msnmessenger-download.com/tracking/reach_webcam
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: <Mogfrog1@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2003 18:46:52 -0700
Subject: Lucas 7 " Lamps
You have not let me down yet. Can anyone tell me the current draw of the big
Lucas 7" Flamethrower" lamps? (per lamp)
I suspect they have a high current draw, and wonder if the standard BN/BT7
generator w/ its factory stated output of 22 amps will handle 2 of these
lamps and the normal high beam headlights + the rest of the normal operating
stuff. It looks like (from old photos) that Healeys in the 60's ran them.
Did they do this w/ the standard generator and voltage regulator?
John Snyder
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2003 22:06:05 -0400
Subject: Two Piece Dash
> Hello Listers,
>
> I've been off this list since January due to divorce and moving to another
city. Because of that, I may have to sell my '53 AH BN1... I'll know soon
if I have to make that drastic decision.
>
> I know what the general asking price would be for a BN1, but I was
wondering if a two piece dash would add to the asking price. I haven't seen
another Healey with this type of dash before (car shows or books and I have
tons of Healey books!). I do have a have a book called; How to Restore
British Sports Cars by Jay Lamm. He mentions it in a diagram drawing on
page 108. The drawing has the center cluster flopped forward... I'm
guessing it's hinged at the bottom. I also have an adjustable steering
column... did they end these two items on the early Healey at the same time?
At what body number did this end? Do these two items make this a more
desirable car?
>
> Thanks,
> Charlie
> Dallas, TX
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 09:29:25 -0400
Subject: Tell it isn't true
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2432599401&ssp
agename=ADME%3AB%3ASS%3AUS%3A1#ebayphotohosting
James Lea
Rockport Maine
1962 BT7 II
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 09:59:44 -0400
Subject: Re: Tell it isn't true
I would like to think that he started with something that was beyond
restoration. It appears that there is not much Healey involved in this
particular vehicle; the front and probably rear suspensions, engine,
transmission and rear end are all non-healey, not to mention the front and
rear sheetmetal and dashboard, steering wheel, seats, road wheels, etc., etc.
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From "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 10:10:51 -0400
Subject: Re: Tell it isn't true
> What an terrible way to treat a beautiful car. Just goes to show there is
no connection between money and taste. JL
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From "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 10:28:15 -0400
Subject: License plates - you never know
Three stalls from the end, I found a license plate dealer who had a few rusty
plates on display. I asked if he had any New York plates for Hudson or
Columbia County, and he obligingly mumbled 'I don't think so, but I'll take
ao look." He pulled up two, neither with anything close to the letter code I
was seeking. As he pulled out a third, H came into view, followed by D. I
jokingly mentioned, 'Good... but I'm picky about the number', barely
concealing my ecstasy as the rest of the plate became visible: HD19*56.
The next stall had a plate frame without logo that fits the oversized plate.
If any Listers out there have a '56 BN2 or BN4 registered in New York, the car
is registered on a nearly perfect original paint 55/56 plate that I'm happy to
sell at cost ($140) as soon as I get switched to HD19*56 (1956 was a single
plate year).
Epilogue: pulling into the driveway, Jean asked "Can't you get one that says
100M'?" You've go to wonder sometimes (Mars and Venus, etc.).
Allen Miller
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From "Phil Nase" <pnase at enter.net>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 10:29:16 -0400
Subject: compressors
Anyone have experience with this manufacturers.
Sears has a model but about $150 more expensive and it gives up output to
the others.
Thanks for your help.
Phil Nase
pnase@enter.net
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 10:37:25 -0400
Subject: Re: Tell it isn't true
Windshield.
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 10:46:04 -0400
Subject: RE: Lucas 7 " Lamps
It's quite likely that the car's electrical system will handle these lamps,
with their high load, with ease. (Sorry, I don't know how exactly much
current they draw; you could check that prior to installation if you have a
DC ammeter; hook one lamp to your battery and measure the current flow, then
multiply by two; do this with the engine running so that the battery voltage
is 13.8-V).
Anyway, once the car's starter motor demand is over, the generator largely
replaces the battery energy needed for that task. Then, even with the car's
electrical system running (all standard lights and accessories on), current
demand from the generator is really quite low. I observe that a 3000's
electrical system seems to nicely feed everything in the car with a balance
from the battery and generator. In fact, if you install an ammeter like I
have on my BT7 (and had on my BJ8), you can see that the generator dumps
just a trickle charge into the battery under most running conditions after a
cold start.
However, to ensure that my BT7's accessory Lucas 576 driving lamps are
separate from the charging/regulator subsystem, I wired the lamps directly
from the battery feed, bypassing the regulator box. They're fed through a
relay (which permits automatic dipping of them along with the high-beams),
and a separate circuit breaker. For its part, the ammeter feed goes through
an independent 25-A fuse, with the output of the ammeter feeding the
regulator.
Works great! My old battery just keeps going, and going......
I had a similar set-up on my BJ8 years ago, and never had a problem either
running the lamps at full voltage, nor placing any excessive demands on the
battery. Fortunately, the batteries in our cars are pretty heavy, too. Most
can typically deliver 50 to 60 A-hrs.
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
Amateur Radio AI2Q
http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
.-.-.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of John Snyder
Sent: Saturday, September 13, 2003 9:47 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Lucas 7 " Lamps
Hello List.
You have not let me down yet. Can anyone tell me the current draw of the
big
Lucas 7" Flamethrower" lamps? (per lamp)
I suspect they have a high current draw, and wonder if the standard BN/BT7
generator w/ its factory stated output of 22 amps will handle 2 of these
lamps and the normal high beam headlights + the rest of the normal operating
stuff. It looks like (from old photos) that Healeys in the 60's ran them.
Did they do this w/ the standard generator and voltage regulator?
John Snyder
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From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 07:55:26 -0700
Subject: Re: Tell it isn't true
Reason 1: claims "1968 Austin-Healey." Since there was, what, four BJ8s built
in '68 I really doubt it (though a '67 could have been registered in '68)
Reason 2: this is not a BJ8 windshield (look at the pillars)
Reason 3: don't see Healey fender beading (appears to be one-piece wings)
Reason 4: this is a two-seater ... BJ8s are "2+2"
Reason 5: not a Healey chassis
Reason 6: no indication of a Healey shroud at all
Reason 7: typical kit car fascia (dash)
My guess: this is is a "1968 Poor-Excuse-for-a-Healey" kit car--most of which
were "based" on earlier model healeys (e.g. BN6-7)--chopped up.
However, if this guy bought the Healey body plate that's also for sale on eBay
....
;)
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 14, 2003 7:10 AM
Subject: Re: Tell it isn't true
> Good news is: Somewhere out there is a complete collection of MkIII spares!
> I don't see anything AH on this guy's junk buggy.
>
> > What an terrible way to treat a beautiful car. Just goes to show there is
> no connection between money and taste. JL
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From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 08:00:16 -0700
Subject: Re: Tell it isn't true
Looks like this could have been a Frogeye (check out the VIN).
Ouch.
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>; "James Lea"
<clocks@midcoast.com>; "List Healeys"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 14, 2003 7:55 AM
Subject: Re: Tell it isn't true
> Methinks this was built from a kit car; e.g. "Saxson."
>
> Reason 1: claims "1968 Austin-Healey." Since there was, what, four BJ8s built
> in '68 I really doubt it (though a '67 could have been registered in '68)
>
> Reason 2: this is not a BJ8 windshield (look at the pillars)
>
> Reason 3: don't see Healey fender beading (appears to be one-piece wings)
>
> Reason 4: this is a two-seater ... BJ8s are "2+2"
>
> Reason 5: not a Healey chassis
>
> Reason 6: no indication of a Healey shroud at all
>
> Reason 7: typical kit car fascia (dash)
>
>
> My guess: this is is a "1968 Poor-Excuse-for-a-Healey" kit car--most of which
> were "based" on earlier model healeys (e.g. BN6-7)--chopped up.
>
> However, if this guy bought the Healey body plate that's also for sale on
>eBay ....
>
> ;)
>
>
> bs
>
>
> *****************************************************
> Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
>(home)
> San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
> `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
> *****************************************************
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
> To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, September 14, 2003 7:10 AM
> Subject: Re: Tell it isn't true
>
>
> > Good news is: Somewhere out there is a complete collection of MkIII spares!
> > I don't see anything AH on this guy's junk buggy.
> >
> > > What an terrible way to treat a beautiful car. Just goes to show there is
> > no connection between money and taste. JL
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From michael e gougeon <kaynmike.bham at juno.com>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 11:42:53 -0700
Subject: Engine Refit
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From "GM" <altec210 at yahoo.com>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 15:59:46 -0400
Subject: Re: compressors
He also has an '88 3HP/20 gal. el cheapo C-H from Home Depot that he uses to
high pressure dry silk-screens and I've had to replace the compressor and have
replaced/repaired other parts more than once. He wishes now he'd bought
another Craftsman.......
Frankly though, I have to wonder about the 'superior' performance claims and
how they were determined. Pulley ratios can be juggled to get reliability or
varying degrees of increased efficiency, but wear components out quicker.
Another thing is what is the compressor made of. Our Craftsman's are iron,
while the C-H is alum (or some blend), and why it needed rebuilding after only
a few years.
That said, if this is going to be used for typical home DIY (light) duty, I'd
buy whichever one gives the most cfm at the highest pressure with the largest
tank to reduce continuous run time with high cfm tools.
GM
----- Original Message -----
> My local Harbor Freight Store has 2 compressors that seem to fit my needs.
> One is a Campbell Hausfeld the other U.S. General. Both are rated about
the
> same but the Campbell Hausfeld has a better 3yr warranty.
>
> Anyone have experience with this manufacturers.
>
> Sears has a model but about $150 more expensive and it gives up output to
> the others.
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 16:38:29 EDT
Subject: Re: Engine Refit
You do want to lift the motor by the two long studs of the rocker arm
assembly. Carbs off. Starter, Transmission and a few other bits should all be
assembled.
In a message dated 9/14/03 11:52:12 AM, kaynmike.bham@juno.com writes:
> Engine is done and rests, painted, on the stand and yet questions remain.
> What do I "grab" with the crane to pick it up with? When I took it out I
> think the head was off and there were plenty of long studs to use as the
> basis of a lifting system. Then I can't remember-I use that word a lot
> nowdays-if the carbs were on or off. Of course if the head WAS off the
> carbs were not a problem, but I'm not clear. Looks like a tight fit if
> they were on, but anything I can bolt on before the engine is in seems
> like the best choice. Anyway any ideas?
> Mike Gougeon 55BN2
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From "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 17:28:50 -0400
Subject: So much for Cash Flow
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 14:43:05 -0700
Subject: Re: compressors
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
----- Original Message -----
From: "GM" <altec210@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>; <Spridgets@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 14, 2003 12:59 PM
Subject: Re: compressors
> Can't really comment on current Craftsman units, but my '62 5HP/20 gal.
> 'portable' and '65 5HP/80 gal. two-stage, and a buddy's '68 units are
still
> running strong with only normal maintenance and a belt change on all three
> several years ago, and they've seen plenty of production work over the
> decades.
>
> He also has an '88 3HP/20 gal. el cheapo C-H from Home Depot that he uses
to
> high pressure dry silk-screens and I've had to replace the compressor and
have
> replaced/repaired other parts more than once. He wishes now he'd bought
> another Craftsman.......
>
> Frankly though, I have to wonder about the 'superior' performance claims
and
> how they were determined. Pulley ratios can be juggled to get reliability
or
> varying degrees of increased efficiency, but wear components out quicker.
> Another thing is what is the compressor made of. Our Craftsman's are iron,
> while the C-H is alum (or some blend), and why it needed rebuilding after
only
> a few years.
>
> That said, if this is going to be used for typical home DIY (light) duty,
I'd
> buy whichever one gives the most cfm at the highest pressure with the
largest
> tank to reduce continuous run time with high cfm tools.
>
> GM
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> > My local Harbor Freight Store has 2 compressors that seem to fit my
needs.
> > One is a Campbell Hausfeld the other U.S. General. Both are rated about
> the
> > same but the Campbell Hausfeld has a better 3yr warranty.
> >
> > Anyone have experience with this manufacturers.
> >
> > Sears has a model but about $150 more expensive and it gives up output
to
> > the others.
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From Douglas W Flagg <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 19:42:25 -0400
Subject: Re:Headlamp
Happy Healeying,
Doug
'56 BN2
________________________________________________________________
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From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 20:21:07 -0400
Subject: RE: Engine Refit
I lifted mine with a couple of angle brackets bolted to the two
studs which hold the valve cover on. (I bought the angle brackets
which Moss sells specifically for this purpose.) I put mine in with
the carbs and intake manifold off, exhaust manifold bolted on loosely.
You will need to shift the two parts of the exhaust manifold around
a bit in order to fit the intake manifold.
HTH,
Peter Schauss
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of michael e gougeon
Sent: Sunday, September 14, 2003 2:43 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Engine Refit
Engine is done and rests, painted, on the stand and yet questions remain.
What do I "grab" with the crane to pick it up with? When I took it out I
think the head was off and there were plenty of long studs to use as the
basis of a lifting system. Then I can't remember-I use that word a lot
nowdays-if the carbs were on or off. Of course if the head WAS off the
carbs were not a problem, but I'm not clear. Looks like a tight fit if
they were on, but anything I can bolt on before the engine is in seems
like the best choice. Anyway any ideas?
Mike Gougeon 55BN2
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From Doug Miller <enginem at earthlink.net>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 17:21:11 -0700
Subject: Re: Engine Refit
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From "Brad Weldon 55BN1" <healey at bradw.com>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 17:42:10 -0700
Subject: Fw: 1967 sprite
roy8bal@aol.com emailed me indicating that he wants to sell his 67 Sprite.
Please direct all questions regarding the vehicle to him at roy8bal@aol.com
Thanks!
Brad Weldon
55 BN1
Webmaster, Austin Healey Club USA
http://www.healey.org/
----- Original Message -----
From: <Roy8bal@aol.com>
To: <webmaster@healey.org>
Sent: Saturday, September 13, 2003 1:53 PM
Subject: 1967 sprite
> would like to sell can't afford memberships desperate $6820
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From "Larry Dickstein" <lonejacklarry at kcweb.net>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 20:21:07 -0500
Subject: Re: Tell it isn't true
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 18:57:58 -0700
Subject: Re: Engine Refit
John Snyder
> Engine is done and rests, painted, on the stand and yet questions remain.
What do I "grab" with the crane to pick it up with? When I took it out I
think the head was off and there were plenty of long studs to use as the
basis of a lifting system. Then I can't remember-I use that word a lot
nowdays-if the carbs were on or off. Of course if the head WAS off the carbs
were not a problem, but I'm not clear. Looks like a tight fit if they were
on, but anything I can bolt on before the engine is in seems like the best
choice. Anyway any ideas?
Mike Gougeon 55BN2
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Dave Carpenter <d.carpenter7 at verizon.net>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 22:05:57 -0400
Subject: Re: Tell it isn't true
Dave
Bob Spidell wrote:
>Oops, my bad.
>
>Looks like this could have been a Frogeye (check out the VIN).
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From "Jerry Goodman" <Jerry.Goodman at comcast.net>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 21:09:38 -0500
Subject: Sprite registery..Forgret about it
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From "Kenny Johnson" <theswed at hotmail.com>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 20:21:20 -0700
Subject: Egine ground strap
kenny
61 BT-7
_________________________________________________________________
Get 10MB of e-mail storage! Sign up for Hotmail Extra Storage.
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 21:47:46 -0700
Subject: tranny cost
Assume it comes out easy through the cock pit.
what should the entire bill be for
Parts: ??
Labor: ??
Labor rate was quoted at $60 per hour.
My automotive talents, garage space, and free time all equal zero.
Ron Rader
1965 BJ8
Los Angeles.
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From MeditionM at netscape.net
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 01:19:52 -0400
Subject: RE: Egine ground strap
"Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com> wrote:
>Can anyone tell me where the engine ground strap connects to the engine?
>It has been awhile since my engine has been in my car. Now that it is
>finally installed, I can't remember where the strap connected to. Thanks.
>
>kenny
>61 BT-7
>
__________________________________________________________________
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From michael e gougeon <kaynmike.bham at juno.com>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 22:35:36 -0700
Subject: Engine Refit Thanks
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From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 07:02:18 -0400
Subject: Re: Egine ground strap
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 14, 2003 11:21 PM
Subject: Egine ground strap
> Can anyone tell me where the engine ground strap connects to the engine?
> It has been awhile since my engine has been in my car. Now that it is
> finally installed, I can't remember where the strap connected to.
Thanks.
>
> kenny
> 61 BT-7
>
> _______________________________________________________________
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From Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 05:31:37 -0700
Subject: Re: Egine ground strap
I put mine on the passenger side (LHD) across the motor mount. I don't
know if this is correct but it is hard to miss if I go to pull the motor
and get near that mount.
Tracy
Tracy
Kenny Johnson wrote:
> Can anyone tell me where the engine ground strap connects to the
> engine? It has been awhile since my engine has been in my car. Now
> that it is finally installed, I can't remember where the strap
> connected to. Thanks.
>
> kenny
> 61 BT-7
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From Jay Fishbein <type79 at ix.netcom.com>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 08:49:37 -0700
Subject: Re: Sprite registery..Forgret about it
Maybe, you are not familiar with Rick Moses and his Spridget efforts.
Rick just finished administering the 3rd International Sprite gathering.
Many volunteers assisted with this event but he still shouldered most of
the burden events like this impose.
No other individual would pull-off events like these. No one.
Rick Moses uses 110% of his energy and dedication to stage these events
for no other reason than his love of Spridgets and his appreciation of
the people that own them.
I have been involved with Spridgets for more than 25 years and met many
"interested" people in the clubs, not in the clubs, and otherwise, but
no one with the passion and dedication as Rick Moses, and no one
involved with the hobby so devoid of ego, as well as lacking an agenda.
Rick Moses is an Spridget enthusiast in the truest sense of the word.
Regarding your immediate issue, is it possible that AHCA is publishing
outdated information? Could the account for the email address for Rick
be closed? Maybe Rick is just burned-out from the incredible effort he
expended for the 3rd Sprite Spree!
Bottom line, I just have to stand up for Rick Moses. He is a special
member of the Spridget community and deservedly so.
jay fishbein
wallingford, CT
Home of "The Innocenti Project"
61 Innocenti 950 Spyder
63 Pink Sprite MkII
74 RWA Midget 38,000 miles
http://home.ix.netcom.com/~type79/ <http://home.ix.netcom.com/%7Etype79/>
Jerry Goodman wrote:
>I'll let you know...I have been very disappointed in the Sprite Registery
>administrator...as I mentioned I got the info about the registery thru the
>AHCA....Thought this would be a great place to get my "roots"....They have a
>newsletter which they send out if you send them addressed stamped envelopes
>and ask for a donation to help support the registery...so I sent stamped
>envelopes and $20 to help the cause.....I sent a question about my car..got an
>email from Rick Moses saying he would get back to me after Sprite
>Spree.....since then I have emailed no less than 4 times and called and left
>messages at least 4 times....WITH NO RESPONSE... I have emailed, and left a
>phone message saying I wanted my donation back...I GOT NO RESPONSE.....I have
>been involved with LBCs for many years...and dealt with many fine
>people...this is the first time I have felt ripped off and treated rudely. So
>anyway I'll let you know what happens...
>JG
>
--
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 09:29:08 -0400
Subject: RE: Sprite registery..Forgret about it
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
Amateur Radio AI2Q
http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
.-.-.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Jerry Goodman
Sent: Sunday, September 14, 2003 10:10 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Cc: spridgets@autox.team.net
Subject: Sprite registery..Forgret about it
I'll let you know...I have been very disappointed in the Sprite Registery
administrator...
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From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 09:51:03 EDT
Subject: Re: Sprite registery..Forgret about it
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From Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 07:16:04 -0700
Subject: Re: Sprite registery..Forgret about it
Alex wrote:
>The BT7 registry is even worse! Essentially, there is NO registry because
>the administrator remains incommunicado and does nothing, zip, nada.
>
> == Alex in Maine
> 1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
> Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
> Amateur Radio AI2Q
> http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
>
> .-.-.
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
>[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Jerry Goodman
>Sent: Sunday, September 14, 2003 10:10 PM
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Cc: spridgets@autox.team.net
>Subject: Sprite registery..Forgret about it
>
>
>I'll let you know...I have been very disappointed in the Sprite Registery
>administrator...
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 07:33:30 -0700
Subject: RE: Re mufflers
-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Carpenter [mailto:d.carpenter7@verizon.net]
Sent: Friday, September 12, 2003 8:01 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re mufflers
Forgot to remove the dang trailer. Forgive me if this is a duplicate
posting.
I've looked at the stock system a couple times and gave thought to using
cherry bomb glass packs on a BJ8. Four of them should give a bit of
sound with out too much rasp. My son's Neon has a cherry bomb and
another performance muffler and it sounds good for a four cylinder.
Dave
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From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 13:25:23 -0400
Subject: Carbs and timing
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From "Douglas W. Flagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 13:41:15 -0400
Subject: Re: Address
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 12:59:58 -0500
Subject: brake and clutch pedal feet
Jack
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 14:37:17 -0400
Subject: RE: Sprite registery..Forgret about it
== Alex
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Tracy Drummond
Sent: Monday, September 15, 2003 10:16 AM
To: Alex
Cc: 'Jerry Goodman'; healeys@autox.team.net; spridgets@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Sprite registery..Forgret about it
What's the gripe? These are volunteer duties. Perhaps those whining
should take this over. Jeeze....
Alex wrote:
>The BT7 registry is even worse! Essentially, there is NO registry because
>the administrator remains incommunicado and does nothing, zip, nada.
>
> == Alex in Maine
> 1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"................
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From MKIII4ME at aol.com
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 14:49:50 EDT
Subject: Test Test
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From "Kenny Johnson" <theswed at hotmail.com>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 11:58:35 -0700
Subject: Electrical help
oh...its positive ground
Kenny
61 BT-7
_________________________________________________________________
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From "Ron Fine Esq." <RonFineEsq at earthlink.net>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2003 15:01:50 -0700
Subject: Lucas distributor cap part number
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From MKIII4ME at aol.com
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 15:12:31 EDT
Subject: Test Test
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From "scott willis" <ahpowered at hotmail.com>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 15:13:50 -0500
Subject: Correct tire size?
_________________________________________________________________
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From "Jim MacDonald" <clew65 at hotmail.com>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 20:33:06 +0000
Subject: carbs and timing
_________________________________________________________________
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 16:29:31 -0400
Subject: RE: Electrical help
Do you have a test light, or (better) a voltmeter?
If so, perhaps I can walk you through some tests.
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
Amateur Radio AI2Q
http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
.-.-.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Kenny Johnson
Sent: Monday, September 15, 2003 2:59 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Electrical help
I just grounded my engine to the frame. Everything seems to be connected
properly, however, I am not able to get anything electrical to work.. My car
has a completely new wiring harness and battery. Anyone have any
suggestions.
oh...its positive ground
Kenny
61 BT-7
_______________________
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 15:29:09 -0600
Subject: Re: Electrical help
Dave Russell
Kenny Johnson wrote:
> I just grounded my engine to the frame. Everything seems to be
> connected properly, however, I am not able to get anything electrical to
> work.. My car has a completely new wiring harness and battery. Anyone
> have any suggestions.
>
> oh...its positive ground
>
>
> Kenny
> 61 BT-7
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From "scott willis" <ahpowered at hotmail.com>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 18:34:44 -0500
Subject: Re: Egine ground strap
My strap is on the back side of slave cylinder bolt and bolted to hole in
frame right next to it. This is on a 60 BN7 with 26k miles.
Does that sound correct?
Cheers,
Scott
60 BN7
59 MGA
73 Bonnie
>From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Egine ground strap
>Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 20:21:20 -0700
>
>Can anyone tell me where the engine ground strap connects to the engine?
>It has been awhile since my engine has been in my car. Now that it is
>finally installed, I can't remember where the strap connected to. Thanks.
>
>kenny
>61 BT-7
_________________________________________________________________
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From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 20:01:14 -0400
Subject: Tach drive oil feed pipe
Thanks,
Mick Vander Ploeg
57 BN4
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From "Jim McDermott" <jmcd206 at msn.com>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 17:20:09 -0700
Subject: Re: Electrical help
Jim McDermott
100 Six BN4
1965 Mustang
----- Original Message -----
From: Kenny Johnson
To: CSent: Monday, September 15, 2003 11:58 AM
Subject: Electrical help
I just grounded my engine to the frame. Everything seems to be connected
properly, however, I am not able to get anything electrical to work.. My car
has a completely new wiring harness and battery. Anyone have any
suggestions.
oh...its positive ground
Kenny
61 BT-7
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From "Jason Gray" <jcagray at hotmail.com>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 18:46:05 -0700
Subject: 100/6 BN4 Headlight Rims
I've just bought NOS headlight rims for my 100/6 BN4. I previously had on
narrow rims which I believe where designed for the 100.
I've been able to get the old rims off but am having a heck of a time
getting the new ones on. I've been able to hook the top portion onto the
headlight bowl projections but cannot seem to get the rest of the unit into
position to secure the lower screw to the internal clip.
Currently I have halogen sealed beams that are held in place to the bowl via
an internal chrome plate around the headlight. Around this I'm trying to
secure the outer rim.
I'm not too sure whether I'm missing anything obvious but would appreciate
it if anyone has any pointers to get these rims on.
thanks in advance.
Jason Gray
57 BN4
Vancouver BC
_________________________________________________________________
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From "Jim LeBlanc" <jleblanc at midsouth.rr.com>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 20:57:13 -0500
Subject: Sending Parts to the Plating Shop
However I am packing parts destined for the platers here is how I do to
minimize trouble.
Enclosed with the parts is a sketching of the parts with quantity and rough
dimensions. I keep a copy and send a copy to the shop.
This gives latitude for the infrequent but realistic problem of misplacing
parts. The drawing is key to them getting back to you. At worst case you know
what the parts look like and you can start looking for replacements. I have
never been in the worst case position but once the drawing kept me from having
to replace parts as the shop used the drawing to find the parts.
Best Regards,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M
with new plating on wheel knock-offs and gauge brackets.
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From "Jim LeBlanc" <jleblanc at midsouth.rr.com>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 21:00:10 -0500
Subject: test
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 21:25:31 -0500
Subject: Re: Sending Parts to the Plating Shop
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
with ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim LeBlanc" <jleblanc@midsouth.rr.com>
To: "austin healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 15, 2003 8:57 PM
Subject: Sending Parts to the Plating Shop
> I recently recall a note on this subject asking for help. Sorry to say I
am
> not the person to volunteer for this effort.
>
> However I am packing parts destined for the platers here is how I do to
> minimize trouble.
>
> Enclosed with the parts is a sketching of the parts with quantity and
rough
> dimensions. I keep a copy and send a copy to the shop.
>
> This gives latitude for the infrequent but realistic problem of misplacing
> parts. The drawing is key to them getting back to you. At worst case you
know
> what the parts look like and you can start looking for replacements. I
have
> never been in the worst case position but once the drawing kept me from
having
> to replace parts as the shop used the drawing to find the parts.
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Jim LeBlanc
> 1956 100-M
> with new plating on wheel knock-offs and gauge brackets.
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From "Greg Wilkinson" <gregwilkinson at adelphia.net>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 19:45:31 -0700
Subject: RE: Sending Parts to the Plating Shop
Best,
Greg
67 BJ8
> -----Original Message-----
>
> Good Idea, but for those of us who are artistically challenged a record
> using a moss parts catolog or factory parts book with sent items
> checked or
> circled and appropriate pages copied for shop and owner would
> work as well.
>
> Greg Lemon
> 54 BN1
>
> with ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jim LeBlanc" <jleblanc@midsouth.rr.com>
>
> > I recently recall a note on this subject asking for help. Sorry to say I
> am
> > not the person to volunteer for this effort.
> >
> > However I am packing parts destined for the platers here is how I do to
> > minimize trouble.
> >
> > Enclosed with the parts is a sketching of the parts with quantity and
> rough
> > dimensions. I keep a copy and send a copy to the shop.
> >
> > This gives latitude for the infrequent but realistic problem of
> misplacing
> > parts. The drawing is key to them getting back to you. At worst case you
> know
> > what the parts look like and you can start looking for replacements. I
> have
> > never been in the worst case position but once the drawing kept me from
> having
> > to replace parts as the shop used the drawing to find the parts.
> >
> > Best Regards,
> >
> > Jim LeBlanc
> > 1956 100-M
> > with new plating on wheel knock-offs and gauge brackets.
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From Chris Dimmock <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 14:43:20 +1000
Subject: Re: Sprite registery..Forgret about it
And some people are apparently more "traditional" than others.
There are many Healey people who have offered their services without
personal gain, to their fellow hobbyists on this list, in the various clubs,
registries etc.
And many of the same, apparently tireless volunteers, have been
'volunteering' to help for over 20 years.
Over the longer term, occasionally; life, work, career and family get in
the way, and delay those volunteers from helping fellow Healey enthusiasts
on a timely basis. And occasionally the volunteers even rush things, or
forget to do things; or have some career/family/whatever crisis occurring in
their own lives at that point in time, which may be more important to them
than e.g. the original paint colour of your car. But - over time - the
volunteers are the core of our clubs.
So cut the 'volunteers' some slack. Or better still - if you see that a long
term club 'volunteer' is struggling keeping up at some point - offer to help
them BEFORE you just go off an criticise them on a public international
email list.
This kind of criticism makes me wonder why people would bother......
Chris
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From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 05:54:22 EDT
Subject: Re: Sending Parts to the Plating Shop
Happy Healeying
Rick
In a message dated 9/15/03 10:14:19 PM, jleblanc@midsouth.rr.com writes:
<<This gives latitude for the infrequent but realistic problem of misplacing
parts. The drawing is key to them getting back to you. At worst case you know
what the parts look like and you can start looking for replacements. I have
never been in the worst case position but once the drawing kept me from having
to replace parts as the shop used the drawing to find the parts.>>
From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 10:00:37 -0500
Subject: Starting problems
I thought that gas wasn't getting to the carbs and it must have ran off of
what was in the bowls. However, the fuel line to the carb was removed, and
gas is getting there when the fuel pump is pumping.
Any ideas what the cause could be? Where should we start to look?
Patton
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 08:45:34 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Carbs and timing
I followed the advise from Barry in Australia, who
rebuilt my distributor to dial in the timing. I
posted it to this URL. I am very pleased with the
results.
Timing discussion startes on page 3, but the rest will
be interesting as well.
http://www.geocities.com/healeybn7/barrypage.htm
Dean BN7
----------------------------------------------
> My brother advised
> me that the timing is probably off. I admit I've
> always set the
> timing with the old test lamp method, and a mark on
> the pulley about
> 1/2" before TDC... so it is not beyond reproach, but
> can someone
> explain the mixture versus timing equation?
> By the way, I will use a timing light next time.
> Stephen BJ8
>
__________________________________
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 09:16:27 -0700
Subject: Chrome
Terry Blubaugh
Diamond Bar, CA
From "Alan Schultz" <alan at andysnet.net>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 12:01:09 -0500
Subject: Re: Starting problems
Alan HBJ8L/34297 (Aint-it-fun)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: "'healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2003 10:00 AM
Subject: Starting problems
> The car was running great, but it was decided to replace the fuel tank
with
> a new one that had already been purchased. After changing the tank, the
car
> started normally, ran for about 8 seconds, then dies. It will not
restart.
>
>
> I thought that gas wasn't getting to the carbs and it must have ran off of
> what was in the bowls. However, the fuel line to the carb was removed,
and
> gas is getting there when the fuel pump is pumping.
>
> Any ideas what the cause could be? Where should we start to look?
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 11:51:46 -0600
Subject: Re: Starting problems
Check for spark.
Dave Russell
Patton Dickson wrote:
> The car was running great, but it was decided to replace the fuel tank with
> a new one that had already been purchased. After changing the tank, the car
> started normally, ran for about 8 seconds, then dies. It will not restart.
>
>
> I thought that gas wasn't getting to the carbs and it must have ran off of
> what was in the bowls. However, the fuel line to the carb was removed, and
> gas is getting there when the fuel pump is pumping.
>
> Any ideas what the cause could be? Where should we start to look?
>
> Patton
From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 16:14:44 -0400
Subject: Re: Tach drive oil feed pipe
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Nock" <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <mvanderploeg@nc.rr.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2003 11:19 AM
Subject: Re: Tach drive oil feed pipe
> on 9/15/03 5:01 PM, Mick VanderPloeg at MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com wrote:
>
> > When I started the engine for the first time last week, in addition to
gas
> > dripping out of the carb, oil started spewing from a threaded opening in
the
> > engine block just above the oil filter & starter. Apparently, when the
engine
> > was painted, this opening was taped over, so I never noticed it before.
Now
> > that it's become a little more obvious, what is this opening for? The
nearest
> > thing to it's location that I can find in the Moss catalog is the
tachometer
> > drive oil feed pipe. Is that correct, and if so, where does the other
end of
> > this pipe attach?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Mick Vander Ploeg
> > 57 BN4
From "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino at ripnet.com>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 17:23:08 -0400
Subject: austin healey magazine
Thanks,
Carl
BN-4(L)
From "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino at ripnet.com>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 17:25:11 -0400
Subject: wire wheels
From "Tracy Drummond" <bighealey at charter.net>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 17:23:16 -0400
Subject: Re: wire wheels
On Tue, 16 Sep 2003 17:25:11 -0400
"Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com> wrote:
>My front wires are really out of round. On a machine they
>move back and forth
>about 1/4-1/2inch while spinning. They are 70 spoke (they
>appear fine) Cobra
>wires. Can they be trued? Who does this? Is it expensive?
From "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 18:23:21 -0400
Subject: Re: Starting problems
Allen
From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 17:31:12 -0500
Subject: Reproduction 100-6 factory advert accuracy?
Is it really a reproduction? If so, why red over white? Isn't that an
incorrect factory color combo for 100-6's?
Thanks
Patton
From "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 18:36:21 -0400
Subject: tank cap needed
If anyone on the list has a spare original lid, I would be very appreciative
to buy it. I can get a non-vintage one from Norman Nock, but I'd rather stay
totally vintage. If anyone sheds pity on me, I promise to wire the cap to the
tank to avoid an instant replay.
Allen Miller
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 16:21:16 -0700
Subject: Re: Starting problems
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>; "'healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2003 3:23 PM
Subject: Re: Starting problems
> Is it possible that the b/w ground wire to the battery cut-off switch got
> dislodged from the terminal. I've been diddling with my tank and in removing
> the cumbersome fuel line section that goes to the pump, it easily interferes
> with the switch wire, atleast with a BN2 harness setup.
>
> Allen
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 21:46:01 -0400
Subject: Re: Egine ground strap
From "Jerry Goodman" <Jerry.Goodman at comcast.net>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 20:58:39 -0500
Subject: conversion to discs
From "Michael E. Williams" <mewilliams at comcast.net>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 22:18:06 -0400
Subject: Re: Egine ground strap
Which side does the strap go on - rear or front?
> Kenny,
> The ground strap goes from the next bolt below the lower starter motor
bolt
> (at about the 5 o'clock position) to the welded nut inside the frame very
> near the slave cylinder.
> Rich Chrysler
From BN1HealeyFan at aol.com
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 23:57:48 EDT
Subject: Re: wire wheels
Bill Scannell
BN-1
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Charlie Stewart" <charlie-stewart@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 22:43:56 -0600
Subject: Re: wire wheels
BN1HealeyFan@aol.com wrote:
> British Wire Wheel Service trues wire wheels and does a fine job. They did
> all of my BN-1 wheels.
>
> Bill Scannell
> BN-1
From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 23:55:31 -0500
Subject: Re: Starting problems
> I don't think that the problem is fuel supply related. Most engines will
> start & idle for up to a minute on just the fuel in the float bowels.
>
> Check for spark.
>
> Dave Russell
>
> Patton Dickson wrote:
> > The car was running great, but it was decided to replace the fuel tank
with
> > a new one that had already been purchased. After changing the tank, the
car
> > started normally, ran for about 8 seconds, then dies. It will not
restart.
> >
> >
> > I thought that gas wasn't getting to the carbs and it must have ran off
of
> > what was in the bowls. However, the fuel line to the carb was removed,
and
> > gas is getting there when the fuel pump is pumping.
> >
> > Any ideas what the cause could be? Where should we start to look?
> >
> > Patton
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 23:19:38 -0600
Subject: Re: Starting problems
Yeah --- I need to watch my spelling. It could be in the bowels of the
bowls, however I doubt it.
Dave
HoYo wrote:
> Unless of course, there's a bowel obstruction!! HoYo ----- Original
> Message ----- From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net> To: "Patton
> Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net> Cc: "'healeys'"
> <healeys@autox.team.net> Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2003 12:51 PM
> Subject: Re: Starting problems
>
>
>
>> I don't think that the problem is fuel supply related. Most engines
>> will start & idle for up to a minute on just the fuel in the float
>> bowels.
>>
>> Check for spark.
>>
>> Dave Russell
>>
>>
> and
>
>>> gas is getting there when the fuel pump is pumping.
>>>
>>> Any ideas what the cause could be? Where should we start to
>>> look?
>>>
>>> Patton
From Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 05:06:35 -0700
Subject: Re: wire wheels
Contact John Blake at 831-465-0617 in Santa Cruz.
He worked at BritishWire Wheel for years and now does
stuff out of his garage. More than willing to take the time
to do the job right.
Dave & Marlene wrote:
> Bill,
> Not any more. See this recent post.
> http://www.team.net/html_arc/healeys/200309/msg00385.html
> Dave Russell
> BN2
>
> BN1HealeyFan@aol.com wrote:
>
>> British Wire Wheel Service trues wire wheels and does a fine job.
>> They did all of my BN-1 wheels.
>>
>> Bill Scannell
>> BN-1
From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 10:39:29 -0400
Subject: Damaged BJ8
In my quest to buy a Healey with roll-up windows to augment my BT7 roadster,
I've located yet another one for sale here in southern Maine. This one is a
BRG 1967 Mk-III.
Unfortunately, it's been hit---and poorly repaired (IMHO). The left front
wing has been replaced, and the new fender doesn't line up well at all,
either at the shrouds or at the left door. The right rear cowl also looks a
tad damaged at the boot hinge area. The boot lid seams are awful. Perhaps
the chassis has shifted. I cannot tell.
The car didn't look rusted. Good outriggers. One exhaust downpipe was
cracked, and welded, near where it was probably hit. I can also see
deformation of the left interior struts under the bonnet.
The car has plates, but no insurance, and therefore can't be test-driven.
The engine is supposedly rebuilt, but it looks ratty. The transmission and
OD was also "rebuilt," says the owner. The interior is all there, but it
needs TLC. Same for the top.
The original wire wheels look pretty tight. Front bumperettes are missing.
Top is fair. Interior is fair. Walnut fascia is fair to poor. Brand new
steering wheel (was the driver hanging on for dear life in the accident?
I've seen many a deformed steering wheel after a collision).
This car interests me, but isn't what I'm looking for, as the repairs are
beyond my skill set. I don't mind finding a ratty old car, but I want one
that hasn't been accident-damaged.
Perhaps someone interested in a parts car, or someone who wants to do a
frame-off/frame replacement restoration would find it just the ticket.
Anyone interested? The owner says he'll give me the chassis ID number soon,
and he will arrive at an asking price.
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
Amateur Radio AI2Q
http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
.-.-.
From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 13:37:20 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: front tow hooks
--- "Ron Fine Esq." <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net> wrote: << I am looking for a
source of tow hooks
or tie down hooks for the front of a BN7. I saw some on a web site but I can't
seem to find that
site again. It offered several types that they manufactured for sale. Does
anyone know of the
site I am looking for or a source? Ron 61BN7 >>
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
From nickzarkades at comcast.net
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 18:03:01 +0000
Subject: Brake Servo Problems
The garage that services my 1966 BJ8 is having a problem sorting out the brakes
since
they installed a rebuilt brake servo. The garage handles mostly BMC cars and
have
handled most of my repairs with no problems.
The problem is after adjusting the brakes and taking it out for a test drive
the brakes will
freeze up and don't fully release. Could there be something else that is
causing this
problem?
Thanks,
NickZ BJ8
From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 14:48:16 -0400
Subject: Re: front tow hooks
How did he get from Paris to B.C. without anyone noticing?
CB
From Olin Brimberry <olin.brimberry.b at bayer.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 15:23:17 -0400
Subject: Brake Servo Problems
Olin Brimberry
62 BT7
From "Ron Fine Esq." <RonFineEsq at earthlink.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 12:37:00 -0700
Subject: Thanks for Tow Hooks
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 14:43:47 -0700
Subject: Re: Brake Servo Problems
There was a thread about this on the List not too long ago. Some Listers
have reported problems with rebuilt servos having the vacuum piston getting
stuck (this will certainly cause your symptoms, though it's not necessarily the
problem).
When I rebuilt mine--on the advice of Lister Earl Kagna--I coated the inside
of the cylinder with a dry, moly-sulphide lubricant, along with a (probably
moly)
grease supplied with the rebuild kit.
Also, in the instructions that came with the rebuild kit there was a procedure
that
wasn't mentioned in the shop manual. Basically, you finger-tighten the three
bolts
that hold the vacuum/air canister to the servo body, align the canister to the
servo
body, then torque to spec. I believe if this isn't done there might be a
possibility
for the vacuum piston to bind.
bs
----- Original Message -----
From: <nickzarkades@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 17, 2003 11:03 AM
Subject: Brake Servo Problems
> Could someone on the list help me out with this problem?
>
> The garage that services my 1966 BJ8 is having a problem sorting out the
>brakes since
> they installed a rebuilt brake servo. The garage handles mostly BMC cars and
>have
> handled most of my repairs with no problems.
>
> The problem is after adjusting the brakes and taking it out for a test drive
>the brakes will
> freeze up and don't fully release. Could there be something else that is
>causing this
> problem?
>
> Thanks,
> NickZ BJ8
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 15:48:13 -0700
Subject: Re: Brake Servo Problems
If all are dragging, it might be water in the system or a stuck master cyl
or booster.
If one of the rears was sticking, maybe a problem with the retractor springs
or a stuck piston.
If one of the fronts, maybe a stuck caliper piston.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
>
> The problem is after adjusting the brakes and taking it out for a test drive
> the brakes will
> freeze up and don't fully release. Could there be something else that is
> causing this
> problem?
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 16:04:16 -0700
Subject: Gearbox Control Shaft
I'm looking for a control shaft for a 4-speed sideshift gearbox. Any
lister know of someone who is parting out a transmission? Thanks.
Terry Blubaugh
From "John Soderling" <jsoderling at ca.astound.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 16:22:46 -0700
Subject: Re: wire wheels
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <BN1HealeyFan@aol.com>
Cc: <ruvino@ripnet.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2003 9:43 PM
Subject: Re: wire wheels
> Bill,
> Not any more. See this recent post.
> http://www.team.net/html_arc/healeys/200309/msg00385.html
> Dave Russell
> BN2
>
> BN1HealeyFan@aol.com wrote:
> > British Wire Wheel Service trues wire wheels and does a fine job. They
did
> > all of my BN-1 wheels.
> >
> > Bill Scannell
> > BN-1
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 20:31:09 -0700
Subject: Re: front tow hooks
I guess I may have missed the beginning of this thread.
Bill Bolton, tricarb@aol.com has reproduced these 'Canadian towing eyes' and
should have stock. His reproductions are excellent - I have a pair, as well
as a couple of pairs of originals. They really do help to protect the car
from those curbs that try to jump out in front of you from time to time. Of
course, they come in handy if you ever have to tow your Healey, God forbid!
----- Original Message -----
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "Ron Fine Esq." <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 17, 2003 10:37 AM
Subject: Re: front tow hooks
Hi Ron; Another option is to make your own "Canadian" Towing Eyes, tow
hooks, or tie down hooks.
Jim Morrison has an excellent article and diagram on the Austin-Healey
Owners Association of
British Columbia web site. Go to:
http://modena.intergate.ca/business/healeys/ah-tech5.html
Enjoy & Good Luck, --Scott Morris
--- "Ron Fine Esq." <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net> wrote: << I am looking for a
source of tow hooks
or tie down hooks for the front of a BN7. I saw some on a web site but I
can't seem to find that
site again. It offered several types that they manufactured for sale. Does
anyone know of the
site I am looking for or a source? Ron 61BN7 >>
From Ronald Fine <ronfineesq at earthlink.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 21:53:12 -0700
Subject: coil testing
From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 04:52:02 EDT
Subject: Re: coil testing
From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 10:45:56 -0400
Subject: RE: coil testing
Having said that however, it is possible that the DC resistance readings on
the old coil can be okay (indicating no shorted or turns or an open coil
winding), but there could be current leakage between the primary and
secondary, or between the secondary and the case when the coil is in
operation.
The reason is high voltage. At voltages above 10-kV funny things can happen,
and leakage paths can develop that you won't see on a very low-voltage
ohmmeter when making resistance checks. An ignition analyzer 'scope will
show this kind of fault immediately, as will a hi-pot tester that checks
transformers at high voltages.
Replacing the old coil is probably a good bet. The cost is low, and you can
always keep the old "good" coil in the boot as a spare.
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
Amateur Radio AI2Q
http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
.-.-.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Ronald Fine
Sent: Thursday, September 18, 2003 12:53 AM
To: rusd@velocitus.net; healeys
Subject: coil testing
Simon's recent question about testing coils and Dave's response got me
to thinking that my coil was looking very old so I bought a new one from
Moss. I took out the old and cleaned it up. It's a Lucas HA12 with a
manufacture date of 3/60 which is about right for my car. I tested the
old one and I got the same readings as Dave (3.4ohm primary & 6,850 ohm
secondary). Then I tested the new one and got almost the same
readings. So my question: Is my original coil correct for my 6
cylinder 3000MKI? With the testing results indicated is there any
reason to replace my original? If so, what coil could I buy to keep it
looking original? Moss only sells the one I bought with the screw in
center wire. Any thoughts or suggestions are always appreciated.
Ron
61BN7
66MGB
From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 11:20:04 -0400
Subject: Re: Oil Temp gauge variation
at sea level water boils (evaporates or flashes off) at 212 deg.
F
at 1200 ft above sea level - 210 deg. F
at 4000 ft above seal level - 205 deg. F
at 6500 ft above seal level - 200 deg. F
at 11000 ft above seal level - 190 deg. F
So the difference caused by altitude (not attitude!) is probably within
most temperature gauges' margin of error unless you do this test at Cripple
Creek or Flagstaff.
CB
From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 11:47:22 -0400
Subject: Happy birthday
C
B
From "Tim Davis" <tld6008 at mchsi.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 11:37:32 -0500
Subject: Seat covering
Can anyone send me a picture of the bottom back of the seat cushion showing
how this is finished. I have recovered my BN7 seatys with a leather kit from
Moss (which I bought 8 years ago) and don't know how to attach the pleated
flap and two side pieces.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Tim Davis BN7
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 11:59:09 -0500
Subject: Hey he's Back...
Been trying to get the time to get back here and let you folks know how the
Bonneville efforts have come out.... just haven't had the time... ( or I'm
lazy... you pick)( can't be wrong on that one can ya? )
Anywho... I bought a new Modified sports car this year and took it out to
Bonneville and left the poor Camaro at home... the new car is called a
Berkeley... but actually it's a Modified sports car designed solely to run at
the Dry Lakes in LA and on the Bonneville Salt flats....
And with my motor and electronics this little car did haul Butt.... I mean it
went VERY fast.... like way fast... the record was 222mph and change and when
we left I'd bumped it up to 246.555.... this on Gasoline out of a 300 cubic
inch motor.... ( yep No Nitrous ) Awesome little car and I finally got to
join my Hero in the Bonneville Two Club.... Checking out Donald's picture on
the wall at the Stateline Hotel's Bonneville Room has become a pass time each
year for me.... this time when I passed it I got to thank him for the
inspiration.... can't tell you how much that ment to me... some of you who
have followed this for so many years can truly appreciate it...
Anyway thanks for your time.... guess we can go back to Concours spelling
discussions.... or hey....how bout Cats? ( damn the shame of it all.... )
Keith Turk ( you can check out the car in the user picture post on
www.landracing.com and you can see the kids from Bama and #34/462 So-Al
Special... you go back 60 or so pic's and you can find one titled Who's is
this and it's the Rodeck motor I ran )
From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 13:15:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Happy birthday
However, what an outstanding, elite group in which Sir Stirling can be
considered!!
CB
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 10:57:26 -0700
Subject: Great Clip if You Have Bandwidth (non-Healey)
It's a 1.07MB file, if anyone wants it let me know (probably
take 10 min. to download @ 56K, though). I'll gather email
addresses for a day or so then send it "batch" to minimize the
upload b/w.
Oh, and if you're a member of PETA, you might not like it ;)
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 15:46:15 -0400
Subject: Re: Hey he's Back...
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 08:43:10 +1000
Subject: RE: Hey he's Back...
A Berkley is a 2 cylinder motorcycle engine car of the late 1950s and early
sixties. Being so light they were quite quick cars but nothing like 222mph.
Bloody hell.
I drove one a few years back but at a far more sedate 40mph.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
-----Original Message-----
From: Keith Turk [mailto:kturk@ala.net]
Sent: Friday, September 19, 2003 2:59 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Hey he's Back...
Okay I guess this thing is working again...
Been trying to get the time to get back here and let you folks know how the
Bonneville efforts have come out.... just haven't had the time... ( or I'm
lazy... you pick)( can't be wrong on that one can ya? )
Anywho... I bought a new Modified sports car this year and took it out to
Bonneville and left the poor Camaro at home... the new car is called a
Berkeley... but actually it's a Modified sports car designed solely to run at
the Dry Lakes in LA and on the Bonneville Salt flats....
And with my motor and electronics this little car did haul Butt.... I mean it
went VERY fast.... like way fast... the record was 222mph and change and when
we left I'd bumped it up to 246.555.... this on Gasoline out of a 300 cubic
inch motor.... ( yep No Nitrous ) Awesome little car and I finally got to
join my Hero in the Bonneville Two Club.... Checking out Donald's picture on
the wall at the Stateline Hotel's Bonneville Room has become a pass time each
year for me.... this time when I passed it I got to thank him for the
inspiration.... can't tell you how much that ment to me... some of you who
have followed this for so many years can truly appreciate it...
Anyway thanks for your time.... guess we can go back to Concours spelling
discussions.... or hey....how bout Cats? ( damn the shame of it all.... )
Keith Turk ( you can check out the car in the user picture post on
www.landracing.com and you can see the kids from Bama and #34/462 So-Al
Special... you go back 60 or so pic's and you can find one titled Who's is
this and it's the Rodeck motor I ran )
**********************************************************************
This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain
privileged information or confidential information or both. If you
are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender.
**********************************************************************
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 17:45:35 -0500
Subject: he's Back/Bville Bugeye Project...
anyway.... it's my intent to try it as both a Berkeley and a Bugeye.... what
I bought was a tried and true car that is very aerodynamically sound... now
I have the rest of my life to futz around with it make it what I wanted to
start out with....
Bonneville hasn't changed a bit by the way.... If you look at Donald's
record of 203... it was an awesome accomplishment... I can't begin to
explain how much respect I have for the man.... and what he did almost 50
yrs ago.... ( or the engineers did...) They went Very Very fast for the
day....
Interesting sidelight to Donald Healeys place in the Bonneville 200 mph Club
is that he's been moved back to the 24 member to gain entry as they have
added several folks who deserved to be in the club from the early days....
like Sir Malcolm Campbell... and Sir Henry Seagraves
By the way I had Malcolm Campbells grandson over here to drive the Camaro
... last year .... his Name is Donald Wales... and a great guy...
K
----- Original Message -----
From: <Healeyguy@aol.com>
To: ""Keith Turk"" <kturk@ala.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 18, 2003 2:46 PM
Subject: Re: Hey he's Back...
> Very good news Keith. I figured you had to be involved with a new project
since we didn't hear from you for quite a while. Just saw a Berkley body in
Honolulu last month and it is a tiny LBC. Looked like it had Crosley running
gear in it. Will the Sprite project come on line in the near future?
> Aloha
> Perry
From "John Soderling" <jsoderling at ca.astound.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 17:01:21 -0700
Subject: Velocity Stacks/Ram Pipes
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 20:29:04 -0700
Subject: Clip
www.justbrits.com
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 21:50:34 -0700
Subject: Re: Hey he's Back...
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 03:14:59 -0500
Subject: Re: Hey he's Back...
If you want to be impressed... think about Sir Henry Seagraves being the first
guy to go 200mph on the sand at Daytona in a Sunbeam....or my favorite Sir
Malcolm Campbell going 300 mph in 1935... It took until the early 60's before
his son Donald Campbell went 400mph... and then the Summers Brothers going 409
in 1963... that record stood until 1997 When Al Teague broke it by tenths of a
mph.... then in 2002 Nolan White took the piston record to 412mph... and Don
Vesco went 458 mph with a wheel driven car... ( turbine engine... but driving
the wheels no jet junk )
The hard part for me is that I got to know Nolan and Don over the last 6
yrs....
and we lost them both last year.... Nolan crashed at Bonneville and Don Died
of Cancer... Don Still owns both the car and Motorcycle top speed records
today...
The next step obviously is 500mph... with a wheel driven car... and theres
less then a handful of people capable of doing it.... Tom Burkland has a twin
engined Hemi powered Streamliner and Rick Vesco has Don's car... and a couple
of more are on the horizon... but it's a Very small club as is the 300mph
club... which is my next goal...
I was sitting by the 4 mile marker when Tom Burkland went by me at 450mph back
in 2000..... I can't even begin to tell you what it's like to hear twin
Hemi's at full song.... or watching Al Teague pull the parachute and still
hearing him shifting the car to the next gear.... The sounds can't travel as
fast as the eye can see.... trust me on this one... it's an awesome place...
and very humbling...
Keith
---- Original Message -----
From: john spaur
To: Keith Turk
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, September 18, 2003 11:50 PM
Subject: Re: Hey he's Back...
At 11:59 AM 9/18/03 -0500, Keith Turk wrote:
Okay I guess this thing is working again...
....And with my motor and electronics this little car did haul Butt.... I
mean it
went VERY fast.... like way fast... the record was 222mph and change and
when
we left I'd bumped it up to 246.555....
Keith,
Congradulations on being a member of the 200 MPH club. WOW for you!!
Just out of curiosity I was wondering when the 200 club started. It appears
to have started with Willie Young drove 255.411 in 1952.
What in the world was he driving; a rocket?
John
Whose hands sweat at 140 in my Stealth!
From "James Shope" <healeymanjim at JoiMail.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 08:04:48 -0700
Subject: servo problems
From "James Shope" <healeymanjim at JoiMail.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 08:25:38 -0700
Subject: servo problems
From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 11:57:15 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: tranny cost
Based on the May 1962 "Schedule of Repair Times" for the "Austin-Healey 3000
BJ7" [AKD1995A], the
following guide for labour times is given on page 5.
Operation Description of Operation
Time
Number
Hrs. Min.
GEARBOX
G.1 Gearbox assembly, remove and refit
4 45
G.2 Gearbox assembly, remove, completely dismantle, fit new
9 45
parts as necessary, reassemble, and refit
G.3 Gearbox and overdrive rear extension cover, fit new oil seal
2 15
Increased time may be allowed:
When difficulties arise due to rust, seizure of parts, or the need for
excessive cleaning down.
When an abnormal condition of the vehicle (damanged in accident, etc.)
necessitates extra work.
When extra time is required for additional road-testing at speed outside a
restricted or
congested area.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Given a good catalogue and the above schedule and an evaluation of what your
gearbox needs, you
should be able to estimate the bill to repair it.
Good luck; --Scott Morris
--- Ron Rader <rader@interworld.net> wrote: << Listers: I am in need to have
the tranny rebuilt
on my BJ8. Back ground: frame off restoration by the PPO around 1997. mostly
a "PIG with
lipstick" when I bought it. although the engine seems great. when I bough the
car 3 years ago I
had the tranny repaired because it kept jumping out of second. It is now doing
it again around
6,000 miles later. "While its out" I want to replace the clutch, balance the
flywheel, etc.
Assume it comes out easy through the cock pit. what should the entire bill be
for
Parts: ??
Labor: ??
Labor rate was quoted at $60 per hour.
My automotive talents, garage space, and free time all equal zero.
Ron Rader 1965 BJ8 Los Angeles. >>
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 13:45:14 -0600
Subject: Re: Velocity Stacks/Ram Pipes
Velocity stacks serve mainly to contain the fuel mixture standoff which
occurs under certain rpm & throttle opening conditions. Air filters work
well to perform this same function. To get any benefit from ram (column
inertia) tuning the stacks would have to be at least 17 inches long.
In my opinion the only benefit of short stacks is cosmetic for those who
wish to ingest quantities of abrasive dirt into their engines.
Dave Russell
BN2
John Soderling wrote:
> Those of you using velocity stacks in place of air cleaners, where do you run
> the crankcase/valve cover vent hose? Does it perform its function without the
> vacuum applied by the carb intake?
> Another question, How do you determine the best length of velocity stack for
> 100-Six for street use?
> Thanks.
> Vrooom vrooom,
> John
> 100-Six Erika the Red
From "James Shope" <healeymanjim at JoiMail.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 12:45:50 -0700
Subject: BN2 fuel pump
From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 13:05:58 -0700
Subject: Training classes @ eclectic motor-works
There's an ad in the September issue of Classic Motorsports placed by
Eclectic Motorworks www.eclecticmotorworks.com, they list some training
classes for general sheet-metal & welding, MGA sheet-metal restoration, and
tuning for speed.
On the web site they show projects including an Austin Healey 3000 that
appears to be a BN7.
Just wanted to know if anyone on the list has taken classes form them who
would be willing to comment.
Cheers,
Frank
1960 BN7 # 10610
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "James Shope" <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 16:39:04 -0400
Subject: BN2 fuel pump
> i need help from you bn2 guys. i am in the process of replacing a bn2
fuel
> pump for a lady in our car club. someone in the past took out the
original
> and replaced it with an AC pump. they bent the fuel pipes and threw away
the
> original bracket(ilf there is one) and i have been unable to find a
picture of
> how this pump is mounted(parallel to bulkhead or parallel to the frame.
Moss
> doesn't list a bracket for bn2, so it might just screw into the bulkhead.
any
> help will be appreciated, since this is my first experience with a bn2.
> thanks in advance. healeymanjim bj8
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "James Shope" <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 15:12:38 -0600
Subject: Re: BN2 fuel pump
The SU pump was originally mounted with the pump end directly to the
bulkhead. I replaced mine with a BJ8 type pump for the increased fuel
flow ability. Mounted the same way.
Dave Russell
James Shope wrote:
> i need help from you bn2 guys. i am in the process of replacing a bn2 fuel
> pump for a lady in our car club. someone in the past took out the original
> and replaced it with an AC pump. they bent the fuel pipes and threw away the
> original bracket(ilf there is one) and i have been unable to find a picture of
> how this pump is mounted(parallel to bulkhead or parallel to the frame. Moss
> doesn't list a bracket for bn2, so it might just screw into the bulkhead. any
> help will be appreciated, since this is my first experience with a bn2.
> thanks in advance. healeymanjim bj8
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
From: "James Shope" <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 16:16:26 -0500
Subject: Re: BN2 fuel pump
My question is why not go back with another aftermarket pump as one's
already there? Seriously... it's a bunch more reliable... ( I know some of
you have Never had Fuel pump problems )... and quite a bit cheaper....
Keith
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "James Shope" <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>; "healeys"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 19, 2003 3:39 PM
Subject: Re: BN2 fuel pump
> The Hundred fuel pump bolts directly through the vertical bulkhead behind
> the left seat into the body of the pump. Careful, it's BSF threads. The
> heads must be accessed under the armacord trim.
> Rich Chrysler
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "James Shope" <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>
> To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, September 19, 2003 3:45 PM
> Subject: BN2 fuel pump
>
>
> > i need help from you bn2 guys. i am in the process of replacing a bn2
> fuel
> > pump for a lady in our car club. someone in the past took out the
> original
> > and replaced it with an AC pump. they bent the fuel pipes and threw
away
> the
> > original bracket(ilf there is one) and i have been unable to find a
> picture of
> > how this pump is mounted(parallel to bulkhead or parallel to the frame.
> Moss
> > doesn't list a bracket for bn2, so it might just screw into the
bulkhead.
> any
> > help will be appreciated, since this is my first experience with a bn2.
> > thanks in advance. healeymanjim bj8
From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
From: "James Shope" <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 17:35:24 -0400
Subject: Carbs and timing redux
"After adjusting the carburettor mixture with the lifting pin method
(BJ8-HD8 carbs) and driving a good distance, the exhaust deposit is
black and the plugs look on the sooty side...but if I weaken the
mixture just a bit, I get spitting at the carbs. My brother advised
me that the timing is probably off. I admit I've always set the
timing with the old test lamp method, and a mark on the pulley about
1/2" before TDC... so it is not beyond reproach, but can someone
explain the mixture versus timing equation?"
From James Lessman <jmslsm at peoplepc.com>
From: "James Shope" <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 18:08:55 -0400
Subject: Water pump question
Thanks, JGL
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "James Shope" <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 16:02:15 -0700
Subject: Re: Training classes @ eclectic motor-works
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding@plantronics.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 19, 2003 1:05 PM
Subject: Training classes @ eclectic motor-works
> List,
>
> There's an ad in the September issue of Classic Motorsports placed by
> Eclectic Motorworks www.eclecticmotorworks.com, they list some training
> classes for general sheet-metal & welding, MGA sheet-metal restoration, and
> tuning for speed.
>
> On the web site they show projects including an Austin Healey 3000 that
> appears to be a BN7.
>
> Just wanted to know if anyone on the list has taken classes form them who
> would be willing to comment.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Frank
> 1960 BN7 # 10610
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "James Shope" <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 16:20:41 -0700
Subject: Re: Carbs and timing redux
I wonder if your plugs are too cold. I might do something like this, maybe
not in this exact order:
-- adjust points and mark timing mark per below, warm car up and set timing
per below
-- drive car, check plugs and, if necessary, install next grade hotter
plugs.
-- revise carbs for lifting pin test
-- take for a drive, checking plugs with "plug-cut" per below
Incidentally, the best way to check the plugs is to do a "plug-cut" where
you drive the car at cruising speed on an empty highway, then turn the
ignition off, take your foot off the gas and coast to a stop, then check the
plugs--it's possible they're fine at cruise, but loaded at idle.
I like dynamic timing at 35 degrees. Figure out distance up from tdc notch,
in inches, by multiplying the diameter of the pulley at the timing mark in
inches x 3.14 x .097 (the latter is 35/360--the size of the pie slice
between tdc and 35 degrees. I gave the formula because I'm too lazy to go
out and measure mine). I made a white pencil mark there and later replaced
it with a cold-chisel notch.
Max advance info from Haynes manual:
BN4&6 w DM6A distrib - 35 deg;
Later models w DM6 dists - 36 deg;
later models after 29f/4898 with DM6A or 25D6 dists: 35 deg + or Minus 3
degrees.
Adjust your point gap if necessary, then, with an operating-temp engine set
the timing to the mark. Seems to me you hafta rev the engine to 3000 or so
to get the maximum advance.
Some guys use the new-fangled lights you can set the advance on. (Sears)
Be sure to hook the light up backward if you've got posi-earth.
There's discussion of these lights in the Archives.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
From "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "James Shope" <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 19:25:43 -0400
Subject: 100 M cold air box
There also a bit of deformation along the outside bottom weld at the middle of
the box, as if someone had tried to force the box away from the chassis with a
tool. That may have contributed to the other cracking, as the securing plates
appear to have been torqued from the bottom outside edge of the box being
pressed toward the engine. In reading, I gather that the factory M's such as
our car were modified to receive a cold air box. Could it be possible that
someone tried to force-fit it in a non-M car, and had to bend the box a bit to
fit?
Allen BN2/m
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "James Shope" <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 17:54:04 -0600
Subject: Re: BN2 fuel pump
Out fishing again, I see.
Over a 50 year period I have used almost every brand of fuel pump
available. NONE have ever given me trouble including the later design SU
of the AZX series. Of course I don't need to tell you that some just
want to stay original, excluding hard core hotrodders of course. The
cheap pumps are only about $40 less than an SU & I happen to like the
late SU design. I carry a cheap generic pump to loan to others but no
one has needed that either.
Been there - Done that,
Dave Russell
BN2
Keith Turk wrote:
> You said your doing this for a lady... nice thing for you to do..
>
> My question is why not go back with another aftermarket pump as one's
> already there? Seriously... it's a bunch more reliable... ( I know some of
> you have Never had Fuel pump problems )... and quite a bit cheaper....
>
> Keith
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "James Shope" <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 18:05:23 -0600
Subject: Re: Carbs and timing redux
There really is no very strong connection between mixture & timing. Lean
mixtures tend to burn a little slower & MIGHT require a little more
timing advance but this is not cast in stone.
Steve Gerow gave some excellent advice. From your description, I would
expect that the plugs may be too cold but black plugs are not fatal
unless they are fouling.
Dave Russell
BN2
Steven Hutchings wrote
> but can someone explain the mixture versus timing equation?"
Steve Gerow wrote:
> Stephen,
> This may be excessive, but bear with me...
>
> I wonder if your plugs are too cold. I might do something like this, maybe
> not in this exact order:
snip
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
From: "James Shope" <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 19:09:31 -0500
Subject: Re: BN2 fuel pump
I've only played with one of the late model SU's and that was on Don
Hambrick's car... it didn't cause any grief... so I don't know much about
them... I can tell you I run an inline pump on the Hundred and have for 20
yrs with no issues... is it adequate.... Hmmm I guess so it's worked this
long without me banging on it... unlike every other early SU I've ever
owned...
Original... or right? Whew.... lets go fishing.... LOL
Keith ( I forgot how much fun I'd had needling the concours guys... They
just crack me up... But again I truly respect their passion... and
opinions... I'm only pestering them cause they let me... )
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "Keith Turk" <kturk@ala.net>
Cc: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>; "James Shope"
<healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>; "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 19, 2003 6:54 PM
Subject: Re: BN2 fuel pump
> Keith,
>
> Out fishing again, I see.
>
> Over a 50 year period I have used almost every brand of fuel pump
> available. NONE have ever given me trouble including the later design SU
> of the AZX series. Of course I don't need to tell you that some just
> want to stay original, excluding hard core hotrodders of course. The
> cheap pumps are only about $40 less than an SU & I happen to like the
> late SU design. I carry a cheap generic pump to loan to others but no
> one has needed that either.
>
> Been there - Done that,
> Dave Russell
> BN2
>
> Keith Turk wrote:
> > You said your doing this for a lady... nice thing for you to do..
> >
> > My question is why not go back with another aftermarket pump as one's
> > already there? Seriously... it's a bunch more reliable... ( I know some
of
> > you have Never had Fuel pump problems )... and quite a bit cheaper....
> >
> > Keith
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "James Shope" <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 18:18:33 -0600
Subject: Re: Training classes @ eclectic motor-works
The so called "list wisdom" is controversial. In my opinion, a solid
frame/chassis with no rust damage will not flex when the drive train is
installed. The original car bodies were fitted without drive train.
As a point of interest, I can jack up one corner, the side, or any
combination without the body panel gaps changing. In fact raising one
front corner will lift the rear as well. If the car is in original
condition or better, chassis flex is not a problem. OTOH, a car with
unrepaired rust damage may flex so much that when it is jacked up the
doors cannot be operated.
Dave Russell
BN2
Bob Spidell wrote:
> Interesting ... looks like they fitted the body and doors without
> the engine installed. Isn't that counter to "List Wisdom??"
>
>
> bs
> ********************************************
> Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
> '67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
> ********************************************
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "James Shope" <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 18:24:38 -0600
Subject: Re: 100 M cold air box
In my experience, there is no way that the air box could even begin to
be fitted with the standard shroud support/bracket combination.
Dave Russell
BN2
Allen C. Miller, Jr. wrote:
> Could it be possible that
> someone tried to force-fit it in a non-M car, and had to bend the box a bit to
> fit?
>
> Allen BN2/m
From Franck Vigneron <vigneronf at yahoo.com>
From: "James Shope" <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 17:32:43 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Does Changing Polarity Affect SU Fuel Pump of BT7?
__________________________________
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
From Chris Dimmock <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "James Shope" <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2003 11:07:48 +1000
Subject: Re: BN2 fuel pump
My personal preference more recently has been the 'double ended' SU pump -
similar to original fitment on Landrover, some Jags etc.
The double ended pump - being an SU pump- ensures that you don't get
excessive delivery pressure (like some modern high pressure pumps which will
cause fuel to leak on low pressure carbs like SUs and webers); and if you
are on the track (esp with 3 webers) you can turn on 'both' pumps to ensure
you don't have fuel delivery issues. And on the road, you can just turn on
one pump. And then if you have a problem - you just switch to the 'other'
pump - and presto - you have an inline, standby hot spare fuel pump!
Not "original' Keith - but period!!
: )
PS the only pump I have ever had a problem with was one of those little
square solid state aftermarket pumps.......
Best regards
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
IMPORTANT: This email is intended for the use of the individual
addressee(s) named above and may contain information that is
confidential, privileged or unsuitable for overly sensitive persons with
no sense of humour or irrational religious or enviromental beliefs. If
you are not the intended recipient, any dissemination, distribution or
copying of this email is not authorised and would be deemed to be
both an annoyance, and an irritating social faux pas. Mate.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "Keith Turk" <kturk@ala.net>
Cc: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>; "James Shope"
<healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>; "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 20, 2003 9:54 AM
Subject: Re: BN2 fuel pump
> Keith,
>
> Out fishing again, I see.
>
> Over a 50 year period I have used almost every brand of fuel pump
> available. NONE have ever given me trouble including the later design SU
> of the AZX series. Of course I don't need to tell you that some just
> want to stay original, excluding hard core hotrodders of course. The
> cheap pumps are only about $40 less than an SU & I happen to like the
> late SU design. I carry a cheap generic pump to loan to others but no
> one has needed that either.
>
> Been there - Done that,
> Dave Russell
> BN2
>
> Keith Turk wrote:
> > You said your doing this for a lady... nice thing for you to do..
> >
> > My question is why not go back with another aftermarket pump as one's
> > already there? Seriously... it's a bunch more reliable... ( I know some
of
> > you have Never had Fuel pump problems )... and quite a bit cheaper....
> >
> > Keith
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
From: "James Shope" <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 20:19:26 -0500
Subject: Re: BN2 fuel pump( sorta... no LBC anymore )
One of my buddies I raced with in August is from New Zealand and he's as
queer for Fords as some folks are bout Healey's.... his gig is to bring a
car from New Zealand to Bonneville and set a record over two hundred... he's
been trying for years and in 97 he rolled his car here and broke his back...
so he's lost the use of his legs... but he still comes and races... his Son
" Lincoln " drives.... his name is Chris Harris... just a wonderful
man... with more ability then disability...
Life is a Grand place to be... damn glad I joined in
Keith
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>; "Keith Turk" <kturk@ala.net>
Cc: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 19, 2003 8:07 PM
Subject: Re: BN2 fuel pump
> Ditto Dave - but my experience is only 25 years!,
>
> My personal preference more recently has been the 'double ended' SU pump -
> similar to original fitment on Landrover, some Jags etc.
>
> The double ended pump - being an SU pump- ensures that you don't get
> excessive delivery pressure (like some modern high pressure pumps which
will
> cause fuel to leak on low pressure carbs like SUs and webers); and if you
> are on the track (esp with 3 webers) you can turn on 'both' pumps to
ensure
> you don't have fuel delivery issues. And on the road, you can just turn on
> one pump. And then if you have a problem - you just switch to the 'other'
> pump - and presto - you have an inline, standby hot spare fuel pump!
>
> Not "original' Keith - but period!!
>
> : )
>
> PS the only pump I have ever had a problem with was one of those little
> square solid state aftermarket pumps.......
>
> Best regards
>
> Chris
> ______________________________________
>
> Chris Dimmock
> Sydney Australia
>
> http://www.myaustinhealey.com
> ______________________________________
>
> IMPORTANT: This email is intended for the use of the individual
> addressee(s) named above and may contain information that is
> confidential, privileged or unsuitable for overly sensitive persons with
> no sense of humour or irrational religious or enviromental beliefs. If
> you are not the intended recipient, any dissemination, distribution or
> copying of this email is not authorised and would be deemed to be
> both an annoyance, and an irritating social faux pas. Mate.
From "scott willis" <ahpowered at hotmail.com>
From: "James Shope" <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 21:06:25 -0500
Subject: Converting to negative ground?
Does anyone have instructions to convert to negative ground? I suppose my
car is negative. There is a big red wire running to the ground strap and
there is a large black wire running to the front. A guy with a BJ8 said my
car may be negative ground. Did they do that on BJ8's? I am putting on a
NAPA inline fuel pump like I have on my MGA and I'll need to convert.
The 6Pack Trails group of TR's is in town and they are having a show here at
the Corvette museum in Bowling Green KY tomorrow. There are over 50 cars
here. There are some great looking TRs in town. I'm a big fan of the 250.
Cheers,
Scott
60 BN7
59 MGA
73 Bonnie
_________________________________________________________________
Get McAfee virus scanning and cleaning of incoming attachments. Get Hotmail
Extra Storage! http://join.msn.com/?PAGE=features/es
From "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "James Shope" <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 22:05:36 -0400
Subject: Holy Mackerel Andy!
This guy has quite a collection. Bet his wife sees red when he starts talking
cars. go to the site and you'll see what I mean.
allen miller
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "James Shope" <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 20:14:53 -0600
Subject: Re: Does Changing Polarity Affect SU Fuel Pump of BT7?
Depending upon the fuel pump model/age. The earlier pumps had a
capacitor/condenser for arc suppression of the points. This model is not
polarity sensitive. The very early pumps had no arc suppression & were
not polarity sensitive.
Somewhere along the way, SU changed the design to use a diode in place
of the capacitor. This design IS polarity sensitive, although the
polarity can be changed by reversing the internal diode connections.
Dave Russell
BN2
Franck Vigneron wrote:
> Dear All,
> I have received contradictory info on this.
> Does changing the + ground polarity of a 1960 BT7 to a
> negative will affect my SU Fuel Pump?
> Thank you
> Franck
From GSFuqua1 at aol.com
From: "James Shope" <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 22:38:08 EDT
Subject: Re: Holy Mackerel Andy!
Gary Fuqua
Branson, Missouri and completely out of drool!!
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "James Shope" <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 20:46:59 -0600
Subject: Re: Converting to negative ground?
Your car was originally positive ground. From your description it sounds
like it still is, although some cars have been converted.
If the "big red wire (BRW) running to the ground strap" is connected to
the + (positive) battery terminal the car is positive ground. If the BRW
is connected to the - (negative) battery terminal the car is negative
ground.
Don't feel bad about the archives. I have sometimes spent hours trying
to find something. Additionally, the archive search often leaves out the
earlier posts on a subject.
Dave Russell
BN2
scott willis wrote:
> I'm obviously too stupip to use the archives. When I click on a topic it
> sends me to pages and pages of topics...
>
> Does anyone have instructions to convert to negative ground? I suppose
> my car is negative. There is a big red wire running to the ground strap
> and there is a large black wire running to the front. A guy with a BJ8
> said my car may be negative ground. Did they do that on BJ8's? I am
> putting on a NAPA inline fuel pump like I have on my MGA and I'll need
> to convert.
From "Classic-Car-World Ltd" <enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk>
From: "James Shope" <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2003 10:03:10 +0100
Subject: WARNING, make sure your anti-virus is up to date!!!
Over the past few days we have seen a massive increase in virus activity via
e-mail, reporting to be from Microsoft and claiming to be the latest security
patch. I have received over 100 this morning and perhaps 300 in the last
couple of days. All viruses received have been detected by our Norton
Anti-Virus software and successfully removed.
See the following link for details on this particular virus:
http://www.sophos.com/virusinfo/articles/gibef.html
For further information on other viruses go to www.sophos.com or see your own
anti-virus vendors website.
The moral of the story here is that Microsoft do not send out security updates
like this, you have to go to their website and download them and make sure
that your Anti-virus software is up to date.
Kindest regards
Tom
Tom McCay
Classic-Car-World Ltd
Tel: 01522 888178
Fax: 0870 7059115
E-mail: enquiries@classic-car-world.co.uk
URL: http://www.classic-car-world.co.uk
From "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK at peoplepc.com>
From: "James Shope" <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2003 08:39:01 -0400
Subject: Re: BN2 fuel pump
I mounted a replacement SU pump on the bulkhead of my BN2, as normal, and
also fitted a Moss solid state pump on the vertical panel behind the tank.
Both pumps are piped in series and I have a 12V changeover switch on the
Armacord panel behind the driver seat. Either pump will pull fuel through
the other and the switch has a central off position which serves as an extra
anti-theft device not seen unless the seat and tonneau are moved. After one
year the SU is still working fine but I have more confidence knowing there
is a backup available at any time.
regards,
Peter Davis
56 100M
----- Original Message -----
From: James Shope <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 19, 2003 3:45 PM
Subject: BN2 fuel pump
> i need help from you bn2 guys. i am in the process of replacing a bn2
fuel
> pump for a lady in our car club. someone in the past took out the
original
> and replaced it with an AC pump. they bent the fuel pipes and threw away
the
> original bracket(ilf there is one) and i have been unable to find a
picture of
> how this pump is mounted(parallel to bulkhead or parallel to the frame.
Moss
> doesn't list a bracket for bn2, so it might just screw into the bulkhead.
any
> help will be appreciated, since this is my first experience with a bn2.
> thanks in advance. healeymanjim bj8
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: "James Shope" <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2003 09:49:23 EDT
Subject: Re: Holy Mackerel Andy!
Happy Healeying,
Rick
In a message dated 9/19/03 10:09:13 PM, acmiller@mhcable.com writes:
<<http://www.billputman.com/Bills-cars.htm
This guy has quite a collection. Bet his wife sees red when he starts talking
cars. go to the site and you'll see what I mean.
allen miller>>
From "Roger Bowker - Sextant Communications, Ltd" <sextant at charter.net>
From: "James Shope" <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2003 10:19:49 -0400
Subject: any good/clever ways to store a hardtop?
anyone ever devised any ways to store these things in a less obtrusive
manner - other than on the car
tnx
Roger B
Harvard, Ma
59BT7 - thermal choke and all
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: "James Shope" <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2003 10:35:33 EDT
Subject: Re: any good/clever ways to store a hardtop?
In the 50s and 60s MG Mitten and Vilem Haan used to sell a hoist to attach to
a beam of your garage. You'd attach the hoist to your hardtop and lift it
off, leaving the top hung from the hoist until you were ready to use it again.
Search in Google for "hardtop hoist" and you'll see a bunch of manufacturers.
Happy Healeying,
Rick
Rowley, MA
In a message dated 9/20/03 10:27:28 AM, sextant@charter.net writes:
<<'ve got a hardtop for my BT7 - I may even use it one of these days -
however in the meantime it's eating up an inordinate amount of space smack
in the middle of my garage floor.
anyone ever devised any ways to store these things in a less obtrusive
manner - other than on the car
tnx
Roger B
Harvard, Ma>>
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "James Shope" <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2003 08:40:59 -0700
Subject: Re: any good/clever ways to store a hardtop?
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Bowker - Sextant Communications, Ltd" <sextant@charter.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 20, 2003 7:19 AM
Subject: any good/clever ways to store a hardtop?
> I've got a hardtop for my BT7 - I may even use it one of these days -
> however in the meantime it's eating up an inordinate amount of space smack
> in the middle of my garage floor.
>
> anyone ever devised any ways to store these things in a less obtrusive
> manner - other than on the car
>
> tnx
>
> Roger B
> Harvard, Ma
> 59BT7 - thermal choke and all
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
From: "James Shope" <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2003 11:58:15 -0500
Subject: any good/clever ways to store a hardtop?
I made a wooden cradle to store my top. It is fabricated so that the top
is stored with the rear window at the bottom of the cradle and the roof is
pointing straight up. All places where the top meets the cradle are
padded. I then went to an interior shop and had them make a heavy soft
cloth cocoon for the top. Put the top inside of the cocoon then place it
in the cradle. The cradle can be attached to a wall for added
stability. With the top stored this way, it is protected from the elements
and protected from being hit. The floor space taken up is about four feet
by two feet against a wall.
Best regards.
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
From "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl>
From: "James Shope" <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2003 20:49:39 +0200
Subject: Re: Training classes @ eclectic motor-works
regards
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
1964 BJ8 29432
1974 BMW 75/6
From "Tim Davis" <tld6008 at mchsi.com>
From: "James Shope" <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2003 10:29:56 -0500
Subject: Re: any good/clever ways to store a hardtop?
Tim Davis BN7
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Bowker - Sextant Communications, Ltd" <sextant@charter.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 20, 2003 9:19 AM
Subject: any good/clever ways to store a hardtop?
> I've got a hardtop for my BT7 - I may even use it one of these days -
> however in the meantime it's eating up an inordinate amount of space smack
> in the middle of my garage floor.
>
> anyone ever devised any ways to store these things in a less obtrusive
> manner - other than on the car
>
> tnx
>
> Roger B
> Harvard, Ma
> 59BT7 - thermal choke and all
From DrBerkowitz at aol.com
From: "James Shope" <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2003 18:38:49 EDT
Subject: top storage
From "scott willis" <ahpowered at hotmail.com>
From: "James Shope" <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2003 22:25:05 -0500
Subject: Needle & Seat at two different hieghts?
I hope it is wrong because I would think it tough to have a place to start
if these are not set the same.
I took the carbs off for a quick cleaning before I try to start the 60 BN7
that's been sitting for over 20 years. There was thick black gunk I had
clean out and many gaskets fell apart. Can I buy a gasket kit or is that the
rebuild kit? $109 seems like a lot of $, but I suppose that's the ticket.
I have Grose jets on my MGA. Are they recomended on the Healey?
Had a great TR 6 Pack Trails show at the Corvette museum here in BG , KY
today. Perfect weather...
Cheers!
Scott
60 BN7
59 MGA
73 Bonnie
_________________________________________________________________
Instant message during games with MSN Messenger 6.0. Download it now FREE!
http://msnmessenger-download.com
From "David" <dcrawfor at san.rr.com>
From: "James Shope" <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2003 20:24:10 -0700
Subject: Re: Hey he's Back...
Found this great photo site . . . hope everyone here checks it out.
http://www.bonneville200mph.org/bonneville_speedweek_2003.htm
David Crawford
San Diego
----- Original Message -----
From: Keith Turk
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, September 18, 2003 9:59 AM
Subject: Hey he's Back...
Okay I guess this thing is working again...
Been trying to get the time to get back here and let you folks know how the
Bonneville efforts have come out.... just haven't had the time... ( or I'm
lazy... you pick)( can't be wrong on that one can ya? )
Anywho... I bought a new Modified sports car this year and took it out to
Bonneville and left the poor Camaro at home... the new car is called a
Berkeley... but actually it's a Modified sports car designed solely to run
at
the Dry Lakes in LA and on the Bonneville Salt flats....
And with my motor and electronics this little car did haul Butt.... I mean
it
went VERY fast.... like way fast... the record was 222mph and change and
when
we left I'd bumped it up to 246.555.... this on Gasoline out of a 300 cubic
inch motor.... ( yep No Nitrous ) Awesome little car and I finally got to
join my Hero in the Bonneville Two Club.... Checking out Donald's picture
on
the wall at the Stateline Hotel's Bonneville Room has become a pass time
each
year for me.... this time when I passed it I got to thank him for the
inspiration.... can't tell you how much that ment to me... some of you
who
have followed this for so many years can truly appreciate it...
Anyway thanks for your time.... guess we can go back to Concours spelling
discussions.... or hey....how bout Cats? ( damn the shame of it all.... )
Keith Turk ( you can check out the car in the user picture post on
www.landracing.com and you can see the kids from Bama and #34/462 So-Al
Special... you go back 60 or so pic's and you can find one titled Who's is
this and it's the Rodeck motor I ran )
From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: "James Shope" <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2003 23:45:49 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Targa Newfoundland Rally
You are going to have some neat stories to tell at pub night next month. And
the next update to
Larry Varley's Austin Healey 100 Restoration web site is much anticipated.
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/index.html
Hopefully, we can arrange a separate "show & tell" event for sometime during
the cold winter
months.
But right now, I figure it is party-time for you guys. Enjoy!!
--Scott
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
From Richard Wegner <rwegner at synapse.net>
From: "James Shope" <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2003 00:18:59 -0400
Subject: Re: BJ8 Speedometer problem
Thanks to those who responded to my request for advice on the
speedometer cable. I have checked out the cable and as it turns out
the cable is fine. The problem is with the right angle adaptor.
When I removed the cable from the adaptor the first thing I noticed
is that the adaptor was loose where it enters the side of the
overdrive case. I could actually revolve the whole adaptor 360
degrees. What holds the adaptor firmly in place? The bolt on top of
the overdrive case seems to hold the brass pinion sleeve in place,
but not the threaded brass piece onto which the right angle adaptor
is threaded.
Does anyone know of a source for the right angle adaptor, either new or used?
Thanks,
Richard
----- Original Message -----
From: <mailto:rwegner@synapse.net>Richard Wegner
To: <mailto:healeys@autox.team.net>healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Friday, September 12, 2003 6:25 PM
Subject: BJ8 Speedometer cable
Hi,
I am doing some work on a friend's BJ8 and one thing he mentioned was
that his speedometer stopped working. I have disconnected the cable
from the back of the gauge and it does not move at all when I drive
the car. I suspect the cable is broken off at the end that goes in
the transmission drive. Anyone know if you can just buy a new cable
to fit inside the housing or do I have to buy a whole new speedometer
cable?
Thanks,
Richard
From "John Soderling" <jsoderling at ca.astound.net>
From: "James Shope" <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2003 21:27:49 -0700
Subject: CONGRATULATIONS - Targa Newfoundland Ralley 2003
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "James Shope" <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2003 22:48:17 -0600
Subject: Re: Needle & Seat at two different heights?
I assume that you are referring to SU carb float needles & seats for the
BN7.
scott willis wrote:
> Is there any reason my needle and seats would be at two different
> settings? One is screwed in all the way and the other is about 1/4 inch
> from being screwed in completely to the lid.
The seats should be screwed all of the way in & snugged. One of them
must have backed out. This would cause either a lean condition on the
carb, or possibly a rich condition if the threads were not sealing.
> Can I buy a gasket kit or is
> that the rebuild kit? $109 seems like a lot of $, but I suppose that's
> the ticket.
Moss lists a gasket kit for one carb at $8, two needed.
>
> I have Grose jets on my MGA. Are they recomended on the Healey?
There are conflicting reports on the Grose ball & seat. Apparently the
original production worked well. People have complained about the more
recent production. I really don't know where it stands at this time.
Personally, I don't think that there is anything wrong with an un-worn
SU setup. I have never had any trouble with them. They DO require
correct fuel pressure (3 psi max) & an inline filter at the carbs is a
good idea.
Dave Russell
BN2
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "James Shope" <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2003 23:13:26 -0600
Subject: Re: BJ8 Speedometer problem
Go here & look at item #180. Some of the parts are available, some not.
You need to take the drive out & see what is screwed up. Remove the bolt
(locking peg) that holds the brass sleeve & pull the whole unit out.
http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=28884
Dave Russell
BN2
Richard Wegner wrote:
> When I removed the cable from the adaptor the first thing I noticed
> is that the adaptor was loose where it enters the side of the
> overdrive case. I could actually revolve the whole adaptor 360
> degrees. What holds the adaptor firmly in place? The bolt on top of
> the overdrive case seems to hold the brass pinion sleeve in place,
> but not the threaded brass piece onto which the right angle adaptor
> is threaded.
>
> Does anyone know of a source for the right angle adaptor, either new or used?
>
> Thanks,
> Richard
From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at comcast.net>
From: "James Shope" <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2003 10:19:31 -0700
Subject: test
> addressee(s) named above and may contain information that is
> confidential, privileged or unsuitable for overly sensitive persons
> with no sense of humour or irrational religious or enviromental
> beliefs. If you are not the intended recipient, any dissemination,
> distribution or copying of this email is not authorised and would be
> deemed to be both an annoyance, and an irritating social faux pas.
> Mate.
From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
From: "James Shope" <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2003 14:44:00 -0400
Subject: RE:Re: Carbs and timing redux
From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: "James Shope" <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2003 13:12:18 -0700
Subject: Rendezvous Now on DVD
"LA COURSE A TRAVERS PARIS. The driver could have made it across Paris in
less than nine minutes if two pedestrians, a couple of busses and a darn Mini
Cooper hadn't gotten in his way. As it was, it took him just more than nine
minutes, and DVD copies of the once-underground Rendezvous depicting that dash
are now legally available for the first time.
"More than a quarter century ago, French director Claude Lelouch woke one
morning at five, strapped a camera to a car (allegedly a Ferrari 275 GTB) and
then raced through Paris hitting speeds of 112 mph. (Rumors say F1 driver
Jacques Laffite may really have been behind the wheel).
"After screening his short, Lelouch was arrested for speeding. Lucky for him
today's mandatory flogging for such behavior didn't apply. He was set free
because the police chief's kids were big fans of Randezvous. Ah, the good old
days. Visit spiritlevelfilm.com to get your copy of Rendezvous" Andrew Luu.
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
From Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: "James Shope" <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2003 18:05:54 -0400
Subject: Tach
From RobertH148 at aol.com
From: "James Shope" <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2003 18:34:28 EDT
Subject: Re: any good/clever ways to store a hardtop?
From "John and Marian Barth" <hopi at charter.net>
From: "James Shope" <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2003 17:53:21 -0500
Subject: Nash-Healey Questions
A couple of Nash-Healey questions. (Is Bill Emerson out there?) Are the rear
springs on the 54 Nash-Healey coupe longer than the springs on the roadster.
Shop manual lists free spring length as 11.75 inches (roadster?). There are
two sets of springs with my car and I forgot which ones came off it. Also does
anyone know a good match for the rear shocks.
John Barth
54 Hash-Healey coupe
From "John Soderling" <jsoderling at ca.astound.net>
From: "James Shope" <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2003 17:02:44 -0700
Subject: Re: Nash-Healey Questions
----- Original Message -----
From: "John and Marian Barth" <hopi@charter.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 21, 2003 3:53 PM
Subject: Nash-Healey Questions
> Hay group,
>
> A couple of Nash-Healey questions. (Is Bill Emerson out there?) Are the
rear
> springs on the 54 Nash-Healey coupe longer than the springs on the
roadster.
> Shop manual lists free spring length as 11.75 inches (roadster?). There
are
> two sets of springs with my car and I forgot which ones came off it. Also
does
> anyone know a good match for the rear shocks.
>
> John Barth
> 54 Hash-Healey coupe
From Skip Besaw <besaw55 at yahoo.com>
From: "James Shope" <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2003 19:00:16 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Storage and Paint question
Skip Besaw, 1967 BJ8
From "Kufchak" <leemar at bendcable.com>
From: "James Shope" <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2003 19:53:29 -0700
Subject: Spark Plug Gap
Any recommendations?
Thanks, Lee
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2003 23:10:42 -0400
Subject: Storage and Paint question
> I just returned from British Invasion at Stowe VT. My red BJ8 has black
wheel wells. I was told by an attendee that the Wheel wells should be the
same colour as the car. Does anyone know (and I'm sure someone does) if this
is correct? Should the frame be painted red as well?
> Secondly has anyone in the North (read cold climate) ever stored their car
(Dec-April) in an enclosed car trailer? Any issues?
> As always Thanks in advance for the help
>
>
> Skip Besaw, 1967 BJ8
From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 00:50:15 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Square body SU fuel pump
__________________________________
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
From Stella67 at aol.com
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 06:00:53 EDT
Subject: Re: Square body SU fuel pump
Good luck,
John
From "timothy bolish" <wt3w at enter.net>
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 09:41:02 -0400
Subject: BN1 Interior
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of
Blank Bkgrd.gif]
From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 10:37:17 EDT
Subject: Re: BN1 Interior
The nice thing about our Concours Guidelines is that we allow a change of
color with no deduction as long as the paint and trim combination is one that
would have been standard for that model and year.
As an example, my own BN1 was originally Carmine Red with a black interior,
and while this was one of the most popular combinations it is one that I am not
particularly fond of for just that reason. I am restoring my car in Old
English White with green trim since this is a combination I find very elegant
plus
it is a rare and seldom seen original combination for my car and year. I
also have a roll of NOS Green Karvel Carpet, but I made the color decision long
before I found this rare item.
You are absolutely correct that the trim color you describe and that is
commonly referred to as Persimmon is documented in the BMIHT Certificate as
Scarlet. I for one am not aware of any other car in the combination of Healey
Blue
with a Scarlet interior and from what I can imagine I do not think that it
would look very good. Since you state that you too are not very enthusiastic
about this combination, I think the word you used was "hate." Feel free to
pick
whatever combination you can live with knowing that many of the original color
combinations are very nice and will receive no point deductions should you
decide to restore the car as original.
A few possible original options would Healey Blue with a blue interior.
Black, white, red, Coronet Cream, or the rare Gunmetal Grey with the red
interior.
Cheers,
Curt Arndt - Chairman, Austin Healey Concours Committee
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
In a message dated 9/22/03 6:46:18 AM Pacific Daylight Time, wt3w@enter.net
writes:
<< BlankI have a 54 BN1and according to the BMIHT the exterior color is
Healey
Blue. The trim was a non-standard color of RED. A few questions for concors
restoration, from what I undersatnd the seats should be the leather scarlet
or
primrose color the rest should be the bright red color. If I go with the red
interior I dont think the dark blue dash would look real good( Im not even
sure if the red interior with the Healey Blue exterior would look good) I was
thinking of doing the optional leather covering the dash. If I go that route
would that be the leather Red or the Scarlet/ Primrose color.... Has anybody
seen this color combination and if so how did it look...I hate to go all
original and hate the combination.
Thanks..Tim >>
From N0040 at aol.com
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 12:11:04 EDT
Subject: Re: Storage and Paint question
I store my wife's car in an enclosed trailer during the winter.
It is quite well sealed, and I keep a lot of moth balls underneath and within
the trailer. I was told that drives the mice away, but we need a
"rodentologist" to confirm that.
They still build nests in my riding mower, but the shed that it is in is not
sealed.
Mice seem to love finned aluminum for their walls of their abode.
I think a well built enclosed trailer is sealed better than a garage would be.
Regards,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
From "Esko & Megan Cate" <enmcate at comcast.net>
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 09:38:47 -0700
Subject: Double messages
Esko
BJ7
From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 11:51:46 -0500
Subject: At wits end with sheet metal problem!!! How to close the gap
Thanks in advance.
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
63 BJ-7
Sturgeon Bay, WI.
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 14:56:52 -0400
Subject: At wits end with sheet metal problem!!! How to close the gap and
> Dear Healeyphiles,
> I'm at wits end regarding the rear sheetmetal on my 63 BJ-7 convertible.
> I removed all of the rear sheet metal over a year ago to replace rusted
out
> panels which were numerous. I bought replacement panels from AH Spares,
seat
> pan, inner fenderweels, heel board, one fender well, trunk floor, latch
panels,
> trunk boxes. Alas, over 150 hours later I've made little progess in
trying to
> get the door gap correct. This gap is bad even with mostly original
panels, ie
> rear shroud and fender only.
> I currently have the front shroud, front fenedrs and doors on. They are
fixed
> and look good. The problem is that when the trunk floor is level and the
boxes
> fit, the door gap is too tight at the top and almost one inch gap at the
> bottom.
> I should preface this entire bit by stating that I did straighten the
frame
> which was bent UP, by pulling it down. SO, if the frame was still up as
it was
> originally this gap condition would actually be even worse. The frame
> currently is nearly dead flat across the bottom except for where is curves
up
> in the front.
> Thus, it appears that I should have to pull the rear of the frame by the
trunk
> down even further to facilitate correct gap and fitment within the trunk.
This
> is unless I make little gains here and there by ovalizing holes and
bending
> sheet metal which I don't think will give me enough to close the gap.
> Is the frame supposed to be flat across the bottom for the last 2/3 or so
of
> the car?? The manual seems to indicate this but I may have misinterpreted
it.
> ANy and all suggestions greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Randy Dickson
> Healey Archaeologist
> 63 BJ-7
> Sturgeon Bay, WI.
From Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 13:18:15 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Valve cover gasket installation
---------------------------------
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 18:47:02 EDT
Subject: Re: Valve cover gasket installation
You're ok with the gasket adhesive to glue the gasket to the valve cover.
Use some white grease between the gasket and the cylinder head instead of the
black gasket sealer/maker. That way you won't have to replace the gasket
everytime you do your valves.
Happy Healeying,
Rick
In a message dated 9/22/03 4:50:04 PM, fortee9er@yahoo.com writes:
<<Are there any recommended ways of installing a new valve cover gasket? I
was planning on using a gasket adhesive to glue the gasket to the valve cover
and then spread some black gasket sealer/maker on the side of the gasket that
mates with head. I have not replaced a valve cover gasket in a while and want
to
make sure I do this right and not have any oil leaks.
Thanks
Jorge
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 16:10:20 -0700
Subject: Re: Valve cover gasket installation
The gasket is _not_ symmetrical--make sure the little straight places on the
ends are properly aligned with those on the valve cover.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
> From: Jorge Garcia <fortee9er@yahoo.com>
> Reply-To: Jorge Garcia <fortee9er@yahoo.com>
> Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 13:18:15 -0700 (PDT)
> To: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Valve cover gasket installation
>
> Are there any recommended ways of installing a new valve cover gasket? I was
> planning on using a gasket adhesive to glue the gasket to the valve cover and
> then spread some black gasket sealer/maker on the side of the gasket that
> mates with head. I have not replaced a valve cover gasket in a while and want
> to make sure I do this right and not have any oil leaks.
> Thanks
> Jorge
From "John Soderling" <jsoderling at ca.astound.net>
From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 16:13:39 -0700
Subject: Ram Pipe/Velocity Stack Filters
From "BJ8 Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 19:22:46 -0700
Subject: Re: Valve cover gasket installation
I glue the gasket to the valve cover with oil-resistant silicone sealant, but
don't use anything between the gasket and head. Snug down the valve cover
nuts and see if you have any leaks after a few miles. If so, torque the nuts
a quarter turn and repeat until there are no leaks.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: Jorge Garcia
To: Austin Healey
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2003 1:18 PM
Subject: Valve cover gasket installation
Are there any recommended ways of installing a new valve cover gasket? I was
planning on using a gasket adhesive to glue the gasket to the valve cover and
then spread some black gasket sealer/maker on the side of the gasket that
mates with head. I have not replaced a valve cover gasket in a while and want
to make sure I do this right and not have any oil leaks.
Thanks
Jorge
From Meemeb at aol.com
From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 20:23:41 EDT
Subject: Convertible Top Hooks on Windshield Frame
Has anyone else removed and replaced these hooks and how did you go about
reattaching the hooks to the windshield frame after they were removed?
Bernie
66 BJ8, 64 BJ7, 67 BJ8, and 67 BJ8 basket case
From =?iso-8859-1?q?Rafael=20Abugattas?= <rafaelabugattas at yahoo.es>
From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 02:44:39 +0200 (CEST)
Subject: Hardtop for a BT7 / BN7
---------------------------------
Nueva versión: Super Webcam, voz, caritas animadas, y más
#161;Gratis!
From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at comcast.net>
From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 18:02:09 -0700
Subject: RE: Double messages
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Esko & Megan Cate
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2003 9:39 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Double messages
I'm receiving about half of the Healey list messages twice. Is that
happening to others? Is there something I need to do to stop it?
Esko
BJ7
From Chris Dimmock <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 11:16:08 +1000
Subject: Re: Ram Pipe/Velocity Stack Filters
I use foam 'socks' which have a metal 'spring' in them, which are attached
by a cable tie. I get them from Unifilter
http://www.finerfilter.com.au/sports.asp
Here's what they look like fitted:
http://www.myaustinhealey.com/austin_healey_3000_pics_enginebay.html
Hope that helps
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
IMPORTANT: This email is intended for the use of the individual
addressee(s) named above and may contain information that is
confidential, privileged or unsuitable for overly sensitive persons with
no sense of humour or irrational religious or enviromental beliefs. If
you are not the intended recipient, any dissemination, distribution or
copying of this email is not authorised and would be deemed to be
both an annoyance, and an irritating social faux pas. Mate.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Soderling" <jsoderling@ca.astound.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2003 9:13 AM
Subject: Ram Pipe/Velocity Stack Filters
> I checked the archives and there is nothing on this subject, even though I
> recall it being discussed several years ago.
> I recall several Listers saying they cover the ends of carburetor ram
pipes
> with a limited filter material. What material do they use and how do they
> attach it?
> Thanks.
> Vrooom vrooom,
> John
> 100-Six Erika the Red
From "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 21:48:47 -0400
Subject: Re: Double messages
Allen Miller
>
> I'm receiving about half of the Healey list messages twice. Is that
> happening to others? Is there something I need to do to stop it?
>
> Esko
> BJ7
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 22:39:14 -0400
Subject: re wits end sheetmetal problem
Did you replace front out riggers ? Also the condition of the front
hingepost is critical here. Ive seen the reinforcing panel(with the three
big holes) cracked where it is spot welded tp the hinge panel. Also the
bottoms usually rust out. All these areas will cause the rear of the door to
sag down and open up the gap at the bottom. These areas all have to be
restored and this part welded to that in such a way that when you are done
you just need to spot weld to the side sill while lifting up on the hinge
post area with a jack so the door is above the normal line by about 3/16 or
so . When the jack is lowered the door will settle into its rightful
position. Then at this time I usually weld in the front outrigger. Its
really a matter of assembling and welding the parts in steps then combining
to make the whole door area solid. Of course first you have to make sure
there is no major damage or the corrections done to spec. Ive always relied
on door to rear fender for alignment, then do front fender to door and last
do sill to bottom of door/side to side front rear fender.
Hope this helps,
Carroll Phillips Top Down Restorations
From cyfied <cyfied at uslink.net>
From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 22:21:11 -0500
Subject: Re: At wits end with sheet metal problem!!! How to close thegap
Rick Ollah
Duluth MN
54 BN1 (well most of it)
Rich C wrote:
> Hi Randy,
> The top side of the frame should be straight, flat and horizontal. The
> bottom of the frame does change in a number of places, so don't go by the
> bottom surface.
> I believe your problem lies in the many pieces of reproduction sheet metal.
> Much of it is quite inaccurate and can not be trusted.
> Was the A post (door hinge post) altered in any way? Also, where the forward
> bulkhead and inner front kick panels weld to the (probably) new inner sills,
> a couple of degrees off here can leave the rear edges of the doors off by
> miles.
> The rear inner dogleg area and shut post cannot be totally trusted for
> having the correct angles and fit.
> Another common problem the restorer will run into is the fact that the
> indentation of the outer rocker panel where the rear dogleg fits over is
> pressed in the wrong place on all repro rockers I've seen. The indentation
> dimension needs to be moved forward about 1/2". Will that help your gap
> problem?
> Try to use your outer panels as the fitting tools prior to remetalling and
> repairing them. Again, an incorrectly positioned outer rear dogleg panel
> will throw your dimensions and gaps way off.
> Just a few ideas, hope they help.
> Rich Chrysler
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, September 22, 2003 12:51 PM
> Subject: At wits end with sheet metal problem!!! How to close the gap and
> other horrors!
>
> > Dear Healeyphiles,
> > I'm at wits end regarding the rear sheetmetal on my 63 BJ-7 convertible.
> > I removed all of the rear sheet metal over a year ago to replace rusted
> out
> > panels which were numerous. I bought replacement panels from AH Spares,
> seat
> > pan, inner fenderweels, heel board, one fender well, trunk floor, latch
> panels,
> > trunk boxes. Alas, over 150 hours later I've made little progess in
> trying to
> > get the door gap correct. This gap is bad even with mostly original
> panels, ie
> > rear shroud and fender only.
> > I currently have the front shroud, front fenedrs and doors on. They are
> fixed
> > and look good. The problem is that when the trunk floor is level and the
> boxes
> > fit, the door gap is too tight at the top and almost one inch gap at the
> > bottom.
> > I should preface this entire bit by stating that I did straighten the
> frame
> > which was bent UP, by pulling it down. SO, if the frame was still up as
> it was
> > originally this gap condition would actually be even worse. The frame
> > currently is nearly dead flat across the bottom except for where is curves
> up
> > in the front.
> > Thus, it appears that I should have to pull the rear of the frame by the
> trunk
> > down even further to facilitate correct gap and fitment within the trunk.
> This
> > is unless I make little gains here and there by ovalizing holes and
> bending
> > sheet metal which I don't think will give me enough to close the gap.
> > Is the frame supposed to be flat across the bottom for the last 2/3 or so
> of
> > the car?? The manual seems to indicate this but I may have misinterpreted
> it.
> > ANy and all suggestions greatly appreciated.
> >
> > Thanks in advance.
> >
> > Randy Dickson
> > Healey Archaeologist
> > 63 BJ-7
> > Sturgeon Bay, WI.
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 21:36:08 -0600
Subject: Re: Ram Pipe/Velocity Stack Filters
I have noticed a change in the "archive search" lately. The search does
not go back nearly as far in time as it used to. Makes the archives of
limited value now.
There are a number of foam filter wrap materials available. I have seen
installations where a piece of foam was fitted over the end of the stack
& secured with a rubber band or clamp. Maybe you can find something here;
http://www.knfilters.com/wraps.htm
The problem with this setup is the filter material only has about three
square inches of filter area & will clog very quickly. The average "real
filter will have around 40 to 60 square inches of filter area. As you
can see, a filter covering the end of the stack would require cleaning
up to 30 times as often.
There are "real" filters designed to go over the end of the stacks but
they require up to six inches more space beyond the stack end. I doubt
if there is room for this in a Healey.
Dave Russell
BN2
John Soderling wrote:
> I checked the archives and there is nothing on this subject, even though I
> recall it being discussed several years ago.
> I recall several Listers saying they cover the ends of carburetor ram pipes
> with a limited filter material. What material do they use and how do they
> attach it?
> Thanks.
> Vrooom vrooom,
> John
> 100-Six Erika the Red
From Dave Carpenter <d.carpenter7 at verizon.net>
From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 23:47:01 -0400
Subject: Re: Valve cover gasket installation
Dave
Jorge Garcia wrote:
>Are there any recommended ways of installing a new valve cover gasket? I was
>planning on using a gasket adhesive to glue the gasket to the valve cover and
>then spread some black gasket sealer/maker on the side of the gasket that
>mates with head. I have not replaced a valve cover gasket in a while and want
>to make sure I do this right and not have any oil leaks.
>Thanks
>Jorge
From "Kenny Johnson" <theswed at hotmail.com>
From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 21:03:48 -0700
Subject: Pertronix wiring help
I have a '61 BT-7 with positive ground. I recently purchased a new complete
wiring harness from Moss and a positive ground Pertronix kit. I wired it up
according to the instructions however, I am not getting spark. Can someone
confirm which wires go were. Thanks.
Kenny '61 BT-7
turning over but not starting.
_________________________________________________________________
Add MSN 8 Internet Software to your existing Internet access and enjoy
patented spam protection and more. Sign up now!
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 23:49:20 -0600
Subject: Re: Pertronix wiring help
When I installed a Pertronix on my positive ground car, the following
wiring worked.
Lift the wires connected to coil - , or SW. They presently connect to
the ignition switch.
Splice Pert. black wire to wire/wires that come from the ignition switch
& insulate.
Connect the Pert. Blk/wh wire to coil -, or SW terminal.
Disconnect the blk/wh wires from coil +, or CB terminal. One comes from
the old distributor point terminal, the other from the battery cut off
switch. Discard the wire from the points & tape the wire that goes to
the battery cut off switch. Connect coil + , or CB to a new ground
connection.
If the wiring is correct you may have to turn the distributor a bit one
way or the other to get it timed to start. Then set the timing with a
strobe light. Make sure that the Pert. wiring loop inside the
distributor is not too long or too short that it rubs on the rotor.
Dave Russell
BN2
Kenny Johnson wrote:
> I checked the archives and I couldn't find an answer to my question.
>
> I have a '61 BT-7 with positive ground. I recently purchased a new
> complete wiring harness from Moss and a positive ground Pertronix kit.
> I wired it up according to the instructions however, I am not getting
> spark. Can someone confirm which wires go were. Thanks.
>
> Kenny '61 BT-7
>
> turning over but not starting.
From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 06:48:05 -0400
Subject: Re: Double messages
Very common. When that happens, check the headers and see if the message
hasn't been sent both to you and the list.
You should see this message only once.
--
John Miller
"Well, I don't see why I have to make one man miserable when I can make so
many men happy."
-Ellyn Mustard, on marriage
From TimWardUK at aol.com
From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 08:21:22 EDT
Subject: Uneven Tyre Wear
I have just returned from 3000 miles in Europe starting with the Euro Classic
event and finishing off with our own drive through the Dolomites in Italy, to
Switzerland, and then back to the UK through France. Great trip and the car
behaved perfectly all the way.
Except that I wrecked my right front tyre and am well on the way to doing the
same with the left front. Yes, I did drive on a couple of circuits, but not
so fast as that, and there were a huge number of hairpins in the mountains, but
I was not going that fast.
What has happened is that the outer edge of the right front tyre, not the
side wall, has worn down in a narrow strip, right down to the webbing under the
rubber in places. The worn strip has a central groove which is distinctly lower
than the rest of the rubber which looks as if it has been rubbing on
something, but this is definitely not the case. To the touch this groove is a
wide "U"
shape. This wear covers one quarter the width of the tyre, with the inner
quarter showing practically no wear at all. The left front tyre is not so bad,
but shows all the same characteristics, and will have to be replaced soon.
The wheels are 72 spoke chrome wheels which create no wobble at all (last
year I had all the spokes correctly tensioned), and the tyres are Yokohama
brand.
I have done just over 15,000 since restoration when they were fitted new.
After a similar event last year the tyres were already showing signs of this
wear
but I put it down to driving on more circuits than I did this year, and for
more laps, with tyres that were not inflated enough. This year I inflated the
tyres to 2 bar. This is not a race car but a standard road car.
I hope that you have some good advice to give me
Many thanks in advance
Tim
BJ8 67
Frogeye 59
From "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER at netl.doe.gov>
From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 09:27:50 -0400
Subject: Jacked-Up
I've found a scissors jack that compresses to approx 3 3/4 inches min, extends
to approx 14 1/4 and has an integral handle--all very compact and business
like. But tell me, how low should I go? or high? (I realize this is a
straight line but I do need to know if I should dicker for this piece of gear
or continue to look.) Any of you been Jacked around on the side of the road..?
Randy Cooper
From Chris Dimmock <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 00:46:54 +1000
Subject: Re: Uneven Tyre Wear
Either too much positive camber; or too much toe-in. Or both.
1. Too much positive camber:
Looking from in front of the car, at the car, do the tyres look like this?
______\_______/______ground
i.e. the top edge of the tyre is further from the centre of the car than the
bottom edge (not counting a bulge where the tyre is on the road)
2. Too much toe-in:
Imagine looking from 'above' the car, down on the car, do the tyres look
'pidgeon toed'?
----------/-----------\-----------line through hub
i.e. a measurement between the front inside edges of the front tyres is a
shorter distance than a measurement between the rear inside edges.
You may need to reread that again. Camber is looking from infront - Toe in
is looking from above - ie different planes.
On a long trip - where the car is predominantly travelling 'straight
ahead' - too much positive camber means the tyre is running on the outside
edge.
Too much toe in means the outside edge is being 'dragged' along.
Either way - the outside edge of the tyre wears at a faster rate.
Too much negative camber, and/or too much toe out - has the same effect on
the inside edge of the tyre.
Go to a 'proper' computer/ laser wheel alignment place, and get them to
check what the current settings are, and reset the toe in to specification.
They will usually give you a printout of camber, castor, toe in etc. You can
get nylon offset trunion bushes to adjust the camber (from eg Denis Welch)
if the culprit is camber.
Hard cornering will also wear out the outside edge - but in your case - I
think it's mostly been happening in a straight line.
Personally - if you make the front slightly 'negative' camber - say 1/2 a
degree (rather than 1/2 a degree positive which is std) - and set the toe in
to almost zero - I think your problems will go away & you'll have a better
handling car.
Hope that helps.
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
IMPORTANT: This email is intended for the use of the individual
addressee(s) named above and may contain information that is
confidential, privileged or unsuitable for overly sensitive persons with
no sense of humour or irrational religious or environmental beliefs. If
you are not the intended recipient, any dissemination, distribution or
copying of this email is not authorised and would be deemed to be
both an annoyance, and an irritating social faux pas. Mate.
----- Original Message -----
From: <TimWardUK@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2003 10:21 PM
Subject: Uneven Tyre Wear
> Hi Listers
> I hope that you will be able to give me some help with this problem.
>
> I have just returned from 3000 miles in Europe starting with the Euro
Classic
> event and finishing off with our own drive through the Dolomites in Italy,
to
> Switzerland, and then back to the UK through France. Great trip and the
car
> behaved perfectly all the way.
>
> Except that I wrecked my right front tyre and am well on the way to doing
the
> same with the left front. Yes, I did drive on a couple of circuits, but
not
> so fast as that, and there were a huge number of hairpins in the
mountains, but
> I was not going that fast.
>
> What has happened is that the outer edge of the right front tyre, not the
> side wall, has worn down in a narrow strip, right down to the webbing
under the
> rubber in places. The worn strip has a central groove which is distinctly
lower
> than the rest of the rubber which looks as if it has been rubbing on
> something, but this is definitely not the case. To the touch this groove
is a wide "U"
> shape. This wear covers one quarter the width of the tyre, with the inner
> quarter showing practically no wear at all. The left front tyre is not so
bad,
> but shows all the same characteristics, and will have to be replaced soon.
>
> The wheels are 72 spoke chrome wheels which create no wobble at all (last
> year I had all the spokes correctly tensioned), and the tyres are Yokohama
brand.
> I have done just over 15,000 since restoration when they were fitted new.
> After a similar event last year the tyres were already showing signs of
this wear
> but I put it down to driving on more circuits than I did this year, and
for
> more laps, with tyres that were not inflated enough. This year I inflated
the
> tyres to 2 bar. This is not a race car but a standard road car.
>
> I hope that you have some good advice to give me
>
> Many thanks in advance
>
> Tim
> BJ8 67
> Frogeye 59
From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 07:58:05 -0700
Subject: RE: Ram Pipe/Velocity Stack Filters
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
-
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 10:31:27 -0600
Subject: Re: Uneven Tyre Wear
You havent mentioned toe in or camber alignment. Are you sure that both
of these are within spec. Camber should be somewhere around 1 degree
positive to 1 degree negative & toe in from zero to 1/16" in.
Dave Russell
TimWardUK@aol.com wrote:
> Hi Listers
>
> What has happened is that the outer edge of the right front tyre, not the
> side wall, has worn down in a narrow strip, right down to the webbing under
>the
> rubber in places. The worn strip has a central groove which is distinctly
>lower
> than the rest of the rubber which looks as if it has been rubbing on
> something, but this is definitely not the case. To the touch this groove is a
>wide "U"
> shape. This wear covers one quarter the width of the tyre, with the inner
> quarter showing practically no wear at all. The left front tyre is not so
>bad,
> but shows all the same characteristics, and will have to be replaced soon.
>
>
> I hope that you have some good advice to give me
>
> Many thanks in advance
>
> Tim
> BJ8 67
> Frogeye 59
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 10:05:04 -0700
Subject: Re: Hardtop for a BT7 / BN7
John Snyder
Does anyone know if a hardtop that fits a 1962 BT7 would fit a 1961 BN7? I
only know that the rear shroud and interior space are different. on both
cars one being a four and the other a two seater I would appreciate your
help.
Thanks,
Rafael
462 BT7, '67 MGB
From "Frakes, Jim" <JimF at frakes-eng.com>
From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 13:06:40 -0500
Subject: RE: Uneven Tyre Wear
Jim Frakes
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Chris Dimmock
Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2003 9:47 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Uneven Tyre Wear
Hi Tim,
Either too much positive camber; or too much toe-in. Or both.
1. Too much positive camber:
Looking from in front of the car, at the car, do the tyres look like
this?
______\_______/______ground
i.e. the top edge of the tyre is further from the centre of the car than
the bottom edge (not counting a bulge where the tyre is on the road)
2. Too much toe-in:
Imagine looking from 'above' the car, down on the car, do the tyres look
'pidgeon toed'?
----------/-----------\-----------line through hub
i.e. a measurement between the front inside edges of the front tyres is
a shorter distance than a measurement between the rear inside edges.
You may need to reread that again. Camber is looking from infront - Toe
in is looking from above - ie different planes.
On a long trip - where the car is predominantly travelling 'straight
ahead' - too much positive camber means the tyre is running on the
outside edge.
Too much toe in means the outside edge is being 'dragged' along.
Either way - the outside edge of the tyre wears at a faster rate.
Too much negative camber, and/or too much toe out - has the same effect
on the inside edge of the tyre.
Go to a 'proper' computer/ laser wheel alignment place, and get them to
check what the current settings are, and reset the toe in to
specification. They will usually give you a printout of camber, castor,
toe in etc. You can get nylon offset trunion bushes to adjust the camber
(from eg Denis Welch) if the culprit is camber.
Hard cornering will also wear out the outside edge - but in your case -
I think it's mostly been happening in a straight line.
Personally - if you make the front slightly 'negative' camber - say 1/2
a degree (rather than 1/2 a degree positive which is std) - and set the
toe in to almost zero - I think your problems will go away & you'll have
a better handling car.
Hope that helps.
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com ______________________________________
IMPORTANT: This email is intended for the use of the individual
addressee(s) named above and may contain information that is
confidential, privileged or unsuitable for overly sensitive persons with
no sense of humour or irrational religious or environmental beliefs. If
you are not the intended recipient, any dissemination, distribution or
copying of this email is not authorised and would be deemed to be both
an annoyance, and an irritating social faux pas. Mate.
----- Original Message -----
From: <TimWardUK@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2003 10:21 PM
Subject: Uneven Tyre Wear
> Hi Listers
> I hope that you will be able to give me some help with this problem.
>
> I have just returned from 3000 miles in Europe starting with the Euro
Classic
> event and finishing off with our own drive through the Dolomites in
> Italy,
to
> Switzerland, and then back to the UK through France. Great trip and
> the
car
> behaved perfectly all the way.
>
> Except that I wrecked my right front tyre and am well on the way to
> doing
the
> same with the left front. Yes, I did drive on a couple of circuits,
> but
not
> so fast as that, and there were a huge number of hairpins in the
mountains, but
> I was not going that fast.
>
> What has happened is that the outer edge of the right front tyre, not
> the side wall, has worn down in a narrow strip, right down to the
> webbing
under the
> rubber in places. The worn strip has a central groove which is
> distinctly
lower
> than the rest of the rubber which looks as if it has been rubbing on
> something, but this is definitely not the case. To the touch this
> groove
is a wide "U"
> shape. This wear covers one quarter the width of the tyre, with the
> inner quarter showing practically no wear at all. The left front tyre
> is not so
bad,
> but shows all the same characteristics, and will have to be replaced
> soon.
>
> The wheels are 72 spoke chrome wheels which create no wobble at all
> (last year I had all the spokes correctly tensioned), and the tyres
> are Yokohama
brand.
> I have done just over 15,000 since restoration when they were fitted
> new. After a similar event last year the tyres were already showing
> signs of
this wear
> but I put it down to driving on more circuits than I did this year,
> and
for
> more laps, with tyres that were not inflated enough. This year I
> inflated
the
> tyres to 2 bar. This is not a race car but a standard road car.
>
> I hope that you have some good advice to give me
>
> Many thanks in advance
>
> Tim
> BJ8 67
> Frogeye 59
From Bill Gildea <bill at execrecruiter.com>
From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 16:53:20 -0400
Subject: Window glass
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 16:59:04 EDT
Subject: Re: Window glass
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
From Slvrbulit2 at aol.com
From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 17:11:41 EDT
Subject: Winter Storage
From "Tim Davis" <tld6008 at mchsi.com>
From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 16:54:49 -0500
Subject: Re: Uneven Tyre Wear
Tim Davis BN7
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <TimWardUK@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2003 11:31 AM
Subject: Re: Uneven Tyre Wear
> Tim,
>
> You havent mentioned toe in or camber alignment. Are you sure that both
> of these are within spec. Camber should be somewhere around 1 degree
> positive to 1 degree negative & toe in from zero to 1/16" in.
>
> Dave Russell
>
> TimWardUK@aol.com wrote:
> > Hi Listers
> >
> > What has happened is that the outer edge of the right front tyre, not
the
> > side wall, has worn down in a narrow strip, right down to the webbing
under the
> > rubber in places. The worn strip has a central groove which is
distinctly lower
> > than the rest of the rubber which looks as if it has been rubbing on
> > something, but this is definitely not the case. To the touch this groove
is a wide "U"
> > shape. This wear covers one quarter the width of the tyre, with the
inner
> > quarter showing practically no wear at all. The left front tyre is not
so bad,
> > but shows all the same characteristics, and will have to be replaced
soon.
> >
> >
> > I hope that you have some good advice to give me
> >
> > Many thanks in advance
> >
> > Tim
> > BJ8 67
> > Frogeye 59
From "Tim Davis" <tld6008 at mchsi.com>
From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 17:04:16 -0500
Subject: Dash Pad
Thanks,
Tim Davis BN7
From Chris Dimmock <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 08:44:26 +1000
Subject: Re: Uneven Tyre Wear
The options I am aware of for changing / adjusting camber are here (Front
Suspension, camber and tyres):
http://www.myaustinhealey.com/Austin_Healey_technical_articles.html
The offset trunnion bushes I mentioned in my last post are eg here:
http://www.bighealey.co.uk/new%20healey/healey02/Healey%20front%20suspension.htm
OFFSET TRUNION BUSH SET
These bushes are machined from graphite impregnated nylon. They are designed
to replace the standard rubber bush, thus helping to stiffen the front king
pin. The off-set hole through the middle of the bush enables you to set the
front suspension to negative camber. Recommended for all cars.
I have used both method 2; and the offset trunion bushes, together, on my
Healey 3000. But I have more negative camber than you probably want or need.
Hope that helps.
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>; <TimWardUK@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2003 7:54 AM
Subject: Re: Uneven Tyre Wear
> Just curious, say the camber was out of spec. It is my understanding that
> there is no provison for adjustment of this setting. If so how is it
> corrected?
>
> Tim Davis BN7
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
> To: <TimWardUK@aol.com>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2003 11:31 AM
> Subject: Re: Uneven Tyre Wear
>
>
> > Tim,
> >
> > You havent mentioned toe in or camber alignment. Are you sure that both
> > of these are within spec. Camber should be somewhere around 1 degree
> > positive to 1 degree negative & toe in from zero to 1/16" in.
> >
> > Dave Russell
> >
> > TimWardUK@aol.com wrote:
> > > Hi Listers
> > >
> > > What has happened is that the outer edge of the right front tyre, not
> the
> > > side wall, has worn down in a narrow strip, right down to the webbing
> under the
> > > rubber in places. The worn strip has a central groove which is
> distinctly lower
> > > than the rest of the rubber which looks as if it has been rubbing on
> > > something, but this is definitely not the case. To the touch this
groove
> is a wide "U"
> > > shape. This wear covers one quarter the width of the tyre, with the
> inner
> > > quarter showing practically no wear at all. The left front tyre is not
> so bad,
> > > but shows all the same characteristics, and will have to be replaced
> soon.
> > >
> > >
> > > I hope that you have some good advice to give me
> > >
> > > Many thanks in advance
> > >
> > > Tim
> > > BJ8 67
> > > Frogeye 59
From "Mr. Finespanner" <mrfinespanner at earthlink.net>
From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 18:51:51 -0700
Subject: Valve cover gasket installation
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 13:18:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jorge Garcia <fortee9er@yahoo.com>
Subject: Valve cover gasket installation
Are there any recommended ways of installing a new valve cover gasket? I was
planning on using a gasket adhesive to glue the gasket to the valve cover and
then spread some black gasket sealer/maker on the side of the gasket that
mates with head. I have not replaced a valve cover gasket in a while and want
to make sure I do this right and not have any oil leaks.
Thanks
Jorge
From Bill Rister <brister at houston.rr.com>
From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 18:05:50 -0500
Subject: Re: Winter Storage
From "BJ8 Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 19:16:35 -0700
Subject: Re: Window glass
I had the driver's door glass shatter on me once as I got in the car. The
screws that hold the door pull in place typically get replaced with screws
that are too long and result in scratches and stress risers in the glass that
cause it to shatter. It is difficult to find sheet metal screws that are
large enough in diameter, but short enough not to scratch the glass. Next
time I have the trim panel off the door, I plan to install inserts in the door
so that I can use machine screws to attach the door pull. I already have deep
scratches in both windows from the screws, and expect either of them to
shatter at any time.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Gildea
To: Group Healey
Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2003 1:53 PM
Subject: Window glass
This weekend I had a shock while driving along with the top down on a
lovely
day. I heard a loud bang. Thinking something struck the driver's door, I
looked over and found that the driver side window had shattered or
literally
expoloded, while down in the window well.
So, listers, should I just go to my local glass house or do I have to
special order a replacement? Also, how hard is it to install? Should I
attempt it or have the glass company do the work?
Bill Gildea, '67BJ8
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 17:53:11 -0600
Subject: Re: Uneven Tyre Wear
Dave Russell
BN2
Tim Davis wrote:
> Just curious, say the camber was out of spec. It is my understanding that
> there is no provison for adjustment of this setting. If so how is it
> corrected?
>
> Tim Davis BN7
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
> To: <TimWardUK@aol.com>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2003 11:31 AM
> Subject: Re: Uneven Tyre Wear
>
>
>
>>Tim,
>>
>>You havent mentioned toe in or camber alignment. Are you sure that both
>>of these are within spec. Camber should be somewhere around 1 degree
>>positive to 1 degree negative & toe in from zero to 1/16" in.
>>
>>Dave Russell
From "Kenny Johnson" <theswed at hotmail.com>
From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 17:15:33 -0700
Subject: Ignition Problems
I am continuing to have problems getting a "spark" while using the pertronix
pos grnd ignition system. I've wired as instructed by pertronix and by the
list but still have problems. Anyone have any suggetstions?
Kenny
'61 BT-7
_________________________________________________________________
Instant message during games with MSN Messenger 6.0. Download it now FREE!
http://msnmessenger-download.com
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 17:34:12 -0700
Subject: Re: Valve cover gasket installation
How on earth do you get the gasket to lie down EXACTLY to
mate to the valve cover???
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mr. Finespanner" <mrfinespanner@earthlink.net>
To: <fortee9er@yahoo.com>
Cc: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2003 6:51 PM
Subject: Valve cover gasket installation
> Jorge,
> I like to glue the gasket to the head with Permatex Ultra Black and use
> Hylomar on top for the valve cover. There are two reasons for gluing it to
> the head. I believe it is less likely to leak that way, since the stronger
> barrier made by the hardening sealer is closest to the oil, effectively giving
> it a deeper area in which to pool. If you check a rocker shaft for wear, by
> watching it with the valve cover off and the motor running, the oil on the
> head will not flow down the sides of the motor with the gasket stuck to the
> head (what the shaft sprays around the rest of the engine bay is another
> matter). Secondly, on BJ7's and 8's where the choke cable exits the firewall
> right in the center, if the gasket is glued to the valve cover the
> back end can be torn by the rocket shaft when trying to clear the choke cable
> bracket while removing the cover.
> Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
>
>
> Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 13:18:15 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Jorge Garcia <fortee9er@yahoo.com>
> Subject: Valve cover gasket installation
>
> Are there any recommended ways of installing a new valve cover gasket? I was
> planning on using a gasket adhesive to glue the gasket to the valve cover and
> then spread some black gasket sealer/maker on the side of the gasket that
> mates with head. I have not replaced a valve cover gasket in a while and want
> to make sure I do this right and not have any oil leaks.
> Thanks
> Jorge
From "Alan Schultz" <alan at andysnet.net>
From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 19:41:17 -0500
Subject: Re: Ignition Problems
I assume you have checkedthe spark by pulling a wire from one of the plugs.
Have you checked by pulling the wire from the center of the distributor cap
and holding it to ground? Spark here would indicate problem with the rotor
or cap. No spark would indicate bad coil or engine not having ground. Check
for a ground strap from engine to frame. If one is installed, suspect coil
is shorted. Try another coil. If everything checks OK and there still no
spark, there could be a break in the wiring from the ignition switch. Use a
Volt-Ohm meter to check continuity.
Let us konow what you find.
Alan
BJ8
> I hope this doesn't sound like a dumb question but I have received
different
> answers. Does a normal timing light work on a possitive ground system?
>
> I am continuing to have problems getting a "spark" while using the
pertronix
> pos grnd ignition system. I've wired as instructed by pertronix and by
the
> list but still have problems. Anyone have any suggetstions?
>
> Kenny
From "Alan Schultz" <alan at andysnet.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 19:44:23 -0500
Subject: Re: Winter Storage
> The best way to keep mice out and dust off the car is to purchase an air
> inflated cocoon type enclosure. I put my BJ8 in one last year and had mice
> all over the storage shed but not one tried to get into the enclosure.
Best
> protection possible.
>
> Alan
> BJ8 (Aint-it-fun)
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2003 4:11 PM
> Subject: Winter Storage
>
>
> > Anyone have an idea how to keep mice out of vehicles that are being
stored
> > for the winter in te northeast? I have used moth balls, dryer sheets,
> also
> > mouse traps don't work very well for me. Any suggestions?
> > Thanks,
> > Seth
From "Dan Harris" <daharris at interlog.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 21:03:13 -0400
Subject: BN4 Engine Weight
I have been putting in serious restoration time on my BN4 by way of building a
garage addition (first things first). I want to put in a ridge beam that will
take a block and tackle. What does the engine weigh, with and without the
transmission? I checked the archives but did not find the answer. I cannot get
at any of my other resource material in the chaos that the rest of the garage
is in. I would sure appreciate some help.
Best regards,
Dan Harris
From "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 19:10:22 -0400
Subject: tricarb 2 seater
I contacted the seller and he emailed me an array of photos which show
considerable more detail. It is a bit rich for my blood, but worth seeing.
Contact: Mitch Menaker
starabil@ix.netcom.com
Allen Miller
From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 21:07:39 EDT
Subject: Re: BN4 Engine Weight
> What does the engine weigh, with and without the
> transmission?
>
I found a listing for the engine with trans. ~728 lbs.
From "Diann Jones" <diann.lindsay at xtra.co.nz>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 13:28:15 +1200
Subject: Clearance on for 60 spoke rim
From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 20:38:46 -0500
Subject: Re: Jacked-Up
Happy Healying
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
> Group,
> Earlier this summer there was discussion about emergency jacks that would
actually get under the car with a flat tire. Blessedly I've yet to need
such equipment, but if I drive as much as I fantasize, odds are that time
will come.
>
> I've found a scissors jack that compresses to approx 3 3/4 inches min,
extends to approx 14 1/4 and has an integral handle--all very compact and
business like. But tell me, how low should I go? or high? (I realize this
is a straight line but I do need to know if I should dicker for this piece
of gear or continue to look.) Any of you been Jacked around on the side of
the road..?
>
> Randy Cooper
From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 21:45:51 -0400
Subject: Interesting Healeys on Ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6023&item=2
433723403
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6023&item=2
433662960
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 19:51:45 -0600
Subject: Re: Ignition Problems
Yes a normal light works on a positive ground car. Just hook the red
timing light wire to ground & the black wire to battery negative at the
fuse block. Be advised that if the timing light has a metal case that
the case will be hot with respect to ground so don't get the light case
against any metal. Also you might get a shock off the case. If so wear a
glove.
Dave Russell
BN2
Kenny Johnson wrote:
> I hope this doesn't sound like a dumb question but I have received
> different answers. Does a normal timing light work on a possitive
> ground system?
>
> I am continuing to have problems getting a "spark" while using the
> pertronix pos grnd ignition system. I've wired as instructed by
> pertronix and by the list but still have problems. Anyone have any
> suggetstions?
>
> Kenny
> '61 BT-7
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 19:58:30 -0600
Subject: Re: Valve cover gasket installation
I agree with Doug for the reasons that he stated.
Put Hylomar on the gasket top & fit it to the cover. Put the "glue" on
the bottom of the gasket & secure the cover in place to the head. When
you remove the cover it will separate easily from the gasket.
Dave Russell
BN2
Bob Spidell wrote:
> Doug,
>
>
> How on earth do you get the gasket to lie down EXACTLY to
> mate to the valve cover???
>
>
> bs
> ********************************************
> Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
> '67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
> ********************************************
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mr. Finespanner" <mrfinespanner@earthlink.net>
> To: <fortee9er@yahoo.com>
> Cc: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2003 6:51 PM
> Subject: Valve cover gasket installation
>
>
>
>>Jorge,
>>I like to glue the gasket to the head with Permatex Ultra Black and use
>>Hylomar on top for the valve cover. There are two reasons for gluing it to
>>the head. I believe it is less likely to leak that way, since the stronger
>>barrier made by the hardening sealer is closest to the oil, effectively giving
>>it a deeper area in which to pool. If you check a rocker shaft for wear, by
>>watching it with the valve cover off and the motor running, the oil on the
>>head will not flow down the sides of the motor with the gasket stuck to the
>>head (what the shaft sprays around the rest of the engine bay is another
>>matter). Secondly, on BJ7's and 8's where the choke cable exits the firewall
>>right in the center, if the gasket is glued to the valve cover the
>>back end can be torn by the rocket shaft when trying to clear the choke cable
>>bracket while removing the cover.
>>Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 19:28:52 -0700
Subject: Re: Ignition Problems
Yes, a "normal" timing light will work on a positive ground car. Just
make sure the positive lead from the timing light--these are usually red
or green in color--is clamped to chassis ground and the black lead
is clamped to your source of electriciy (I use the large cable attached to
the starter solenoid; be careful not to touch chassis with the power lead,
especially the clutch line which may run near to the starter solenoid).
Recommend you use a plastic or rubber-encased timing light, a metal-cased
light will likely have the case grounded, meaning the case is "hot."
Some people have had trouble grokking the Pertronix since it switches
current above (i.e. "upstream") of the coil whereas points switch the coil
to ground (i.e. "downstream") of the coil. I used the b/w wire to the
battery cutoff switch which should be open during running for a points
system, but can be moved to the other terminal on the cutoff switch to
provide ground for the coil in a Pertronix-switched system.
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2003 5:41 PM
Subject: Re: Ignition Problems
> Kenny,
>
> I assume you have checkedthe spark by pulling a wire from one of the plugs.
> Have you checked by pulling the wire from the center of the distributor cap
> and holding it to ground? Spark here would indicate problem with the rotor
> or cap. No spark would indicate bad coil or engine not having ground. Check
> for a ground strap from engine to frame. If one is installed, suspect coil
> is shorted. Try another coil. If everything checks OK and there still no
> spark, there could be a break in the wiring from the ignition switch. Use a
> Volt-Ohm meter to check continuity.
>
> Let us konow what you find.
>
> Alan
> BJ8
>
> > I hope this doesn't sound like a dumb question but I have received
> different
> > answers. Does a normal timing light work on a possitive ground system?
> >
> > I am continuing to have problems getting a "spark" while using the
> pertronix
> > pos grnd ignition system. I've wired as instructed by pertronix and by
> the
> > list but still have problems. Anyone have any suggetstions?
> >
> > Kenny
From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 22:58:55 EDT
Subject: Re: Uneven Tyre Wear
From "BJ8 Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 23:03:07 -0700
Subject: Paging Ed Adams
Thanks,
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC USA
From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 22:07:53 -0500
Subject: It's Here!!! My BN4
The good news, the car is better than I expected. The interior is in good
shape, and the paint isn't as bad as I thought (very dirty). The only body
problems I can find are the ones I knew about, and they all seem to have
been overstated. There are dents and dings on the frame, but only one spot
needing a patch. Oh yes, the engine runs so sweet.... And it shifts so
smooth.... That combined with a low purchase price makes me a very happy
new Healey owner.
As to the problems, three "unexpected" things occurred
1. I signed a waiver for transport if clearance was under 5 inches on the
exhaust system, of course the stainless exhaust was knocked off in
transport, I have to figure out if there is any real damage and fix that.
2. Somehow, brakes that worked last week, have no pedal pressure today. I
have to figure out why, then fix. Any suggestions as to the best place to
start. I think I need to fill it with LMA then see where it goes.
3. As we were backing the car off the trailer, the steering wheel
disintegrated. The rim separated from all of the spokes, and is trash. I
will be buying that tomorrow.
All of that made the 3 mile drive home "fun" Steering off the hub, exhaust
coming straight out of the muffler, and using the handbrake to stop.
Tomorrow, I start putting together my shopping list for parts, I'll throw
out a couple if you have, I'm looking for...
A steering wheel for an adjustable column car
The passenger door locking mechanism
If you have either in good used condition, email me off list.
Here are a few pictures I took today (the car really needs a bath).
http://home.earthlink.net/~kpdii/my_bn4.htm
Thanks for all of the help
Patton
-------------------------------------
Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
Austin-Healey BN4
For Sale
1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert
From Dave Carpenter <d.carpenter7 at verizon.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 00:12:47 -0400
Subject: timing lights
Made by Flaming River and sold through speed equip and hotrod shops.
No financial intrest yada yada yada
Dave
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 00:34:30 -0400
Subject: Re: Dash Pad
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 00:36:09 -0400
Subject: Re: Clearance on for 60 spoke rim
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 00:43:55 -0400
Subject: Re: It's Here!!! My BN4
The reason you have no brakes is that is the master cylinder pushrod hanging
down by the brake pedal. This means the circlip holding the internals of the
master cylinder has come out allowing all to escape. Probably time for a
m/cyl. kit which will include a new circlip and the seals needed to rebuild.
Rich Chrysler
From John Slade <edalsj at igs.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 00:49:23 -0400
Subject: Re: tricarb 2 seater
I hope the left door is not closed properly in these photos.
John Slade
62 Tri Carb
From "Kenny Johnson" <theswed at hotmail.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 22:15:08 -0700
Subject: Ignition Problems - Im giving up!
I have a new Lucas sports coil, new complete wiring harness, new spark plug
wires, new lucas cdist cap, new battery....actually...almost everything is
new.
Here is how I had it originally wired up. I have one white wire going to
the (-) side of the coil. I have a blk/wht wire going to the (+) and the
other blk/wht wire to the dist. Since I disconnected the pertronix, the
blk/wht wire that went to the dist has been either dangling there or
grounded (I tried both ways)
I checked for spark from the coil wire....nothing. I changed to my old
coil....still no spark. The coil gets hot while turning over the
engine....but still no spark from the coil wire. The ignition switch (-)
(white wire) on the coil turns on my test light (i don't have any electrical
test equipment other than a proibe test light).
Anyone know a good electrical mechanic in No CA?
Kenny
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 22:20:17 -0700
Subject: Re: It's Here!!! My BN4
Congrats! Your life will never be the same.
Looks like the brake push rod is hanging from the brake pedal ...
this has been known to degrade brake performance a tad ;)
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 00:37:05 -0500
Subject: Re: BN4 Engine Weight
Good luck with your project
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Harris" <daharris@interlog.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2003 8:03 PM
Subject: BN4 Engine Weight
> Hi to all,
>
> I have been putting in serious restoration time on my BN4 by way of
building a
> garage addition (first things first). I want to put in a ridge beam that
will
> take a block and tackle. What does the engine weigh, with and without the
> transmission? I checked the archives but did not find the answer. I cannot
get
> at any of my other resource material in the chaos that the rest of the
garage
> is in. I would sure appreciate some help.
>
> Best regards,
> Dan Harris
From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 07:37:26 -0400
Subject: Re: Ignition Problems - Im giving up!
Finally, it turned out that I had attached the wires to the points assembly
above the little plastic disc (the one that's shoved down on the top of the
shaft on which the points pivot and the spring attaches) rather than below
the disc. This effectively prevented any juice from getting to the points
themselves. As soon as I moved the wires below the plastic disc (basically
sandwiched them between the plastic disc and spring), I got a spark and the
engine fired right up.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2003 1:15 AM
Subject: Ignition Problems - Im giving up!
> I giving up!!! unless someone has any ideas.
>
> I have a new Lucas sports coil, new complete wiring harness, new spark
plug
> wires, new lucas cdist cap, new battery....actually...almost everything is
> new.
>
> Here is how I had it originally wired up. I have one white wire going to
> the (-) side of the coil. I have a blk/wht wire going to the (+) and the
> other blk/wht wire to the dist. Since I disconnected the pertronix, the
> blk/wht wire that went to the dist has been either dangling there or
> grounded (I tried both ways)
>
>
> I checked for spark from the coil wire....nothing. I changed to my old
> coil....still no spark. The coil gets hot while turning over the
> engine....but still no spark from the coil wire. The ignition switch (-)
> (white wire) on the coil turns on my test light (i don't have any
electrical
> test equipment other than a proibe test light).
>
>
> Anyone know a good electrical mechanic in No CA?
>
>
> Kenny
From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 07:41:47 -0400
Subject: Re: Ignition Problems - Im giving up!
That suggests that the coil may be continuously energized. A spark doesn't
occur until the primary current to the coil stops (that's what the points do
in conventional ignitiion). So the place to start troubleshooting is to
ensure that the coil primary current is being interrupted three times per
engine revolution.
--
John Miller
Electricity is like love -- a simple idea but it can get complicated.
-Noah Little
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 08:15:31 -0400
Subject: Re: It's Here!!! My BN4
Congratulations and good luck.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: "'healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2003 11:07 PM
Subject: It's Here!!! My BN4
> All of that made the 3 mile drive home "fun" Steering off the hub,
exhaust
> coming straight out of the muffler, and using the handbrake to stop.
From "Malaney, David W" <DavidWMalaney at eaton.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 08:26:52 -0400
Subject: Steering wheels
***********************************
Dave Malaney
West Bloomfield, Mi.
61 BN7
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 06:08:27 -0700
Subject: Re: Ignition Problems - Im giving up!
> Here is how I had it originally wired up. I have one white wire going to
> the (-) side of the coil. I have a blk/wht wire going to the (+) and the
> other blk/wht wire to the dist.
This doesn't seem right to me (caveat: I'm working from memory only).
If I recall correctly, the white harness wire is -12V and switched by the
ignition.
It should go to the Pertronix unit (spliced, maybe?). The other lead from
the Pertronix (b/w?) should go to the (-) terminal on the coil. The (+)
terminal on the coil should go to chassis ground (I use the b/w "security"
wire that runs to the battery cutoff switch--it has to be moved to the other
terminal on the cutoff switch).
re:
> The coil gets hot while turning over the
> engine
This doesn't sound good ... sounds like you have a dead short through
the coil (this would explain the lack of spark). You may have fried the
Pertronix unit. You might try re-installing your points rig to verify.
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2003 10:15 PM
Subject: Ignition Problems - Im giving up!
> I giving up!!! unless someone has any ideas.
>
> I have a new Lucas sports coil, new complete wiring harness, new spark plug
> wires, new lucas cdist cap, new battery....actually...almost everything is
> new.
>
> Here is how I had it originally wired up. I have one white wire going to
> the (-) side of the coil. I have a blk/wht wire going to the (+) and the
> other blk/wht wire to the dist. Since I disconnected the pertronix, the
> blk/wht wire that went to the dist has been either dangling there or
> grounded (I tried both ways)
>
>
> I checked for spark from the coil wire....nothing. I changed to my old
> coil....still no spark. The coil gets hot while turning over the
> engine....but still no spark from the coil wire. The ignition switch (-)
> (white wire) on the coil turns on my test light (i don't have any electrical
> test equipment other than a proibe test light).
>
>
> Anyone know a good electrical mechanic in No CA?
>
>
> Kenny
From "Vink, Graham" <vinkg at fleishman.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 08:37:07 -0500
Subject: RE: Steering wheels
-Graham
http://www.eastwoodco.com/ do a keyword search for "steering"
From Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 06:50:04 -0700
Subject: Re: Ignition Problems - Im giving up!
Where are you at? I am in the South Bay and if your not too far would
be willing to have a look. What year is your car?
Tracy
Kenny Johnson wrote:
> I giving up!!! unless someone has any ideas.
>
> I have a new Lucas sports coil, new complete wiring harness, new spark
> plug wires, new lucas cdist cap, new battery....actually...almost
> everything is new.
>
> Here is how I had it originally wired up. I have one white wire going
> to the (-) side of the coil. I have a blk/wht wire going to the (+)
> and the other blk/wht wire to the dist. Since I disconnected the
> pertronix, the blk/wht wire that went to the dist has been either
> dangling there or grounded (I tried both ways)
>
>
> I checked for spark from the coil wire....nothing. I changed to my
> old coil....still no spark. The coil gets hot while turning over the
> engine....but still no spark from the coil wire. The ignition switch
> (-) (white wire) on the coil turns on my test light (i don't have any
> electrical test equipment other than a proibe test light).
>
>
> Anyone know a good electrical mechanic in No CA?
>
>
> Kenny
From "matt wilson" <mwilson18 at cox.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 08:05:15 -0700
Subject: Re: Steering wheels
After much consideration, and the input from many on this very board, I
decided to replace the wheel with a reproduction wheel from Moss Motors. At
the same time I had a Heritage Leather Interior put into the car so I opted
to have the shop put a very nice customer leather wrap on the wheel.
I am very satisfied with the Moss Replacement and would recommend you opt
for this route versus repair. Although you may be able to repair your
existing wheel it won't be without a great deal of heartache and effort. In
the end who knows how long those cosmetic repairs would hold up anyway.
Regardless of what you do good luck.
Best Regards,
Matt Wilson
1960 AH 3000 BT7
----- Original Message -----
From: "Malaney, David W" <DavidWMalaney@eaton.com>
To: "'Healeys' (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2003 5:26 AM
Subject: Steering wheels
> My original steering wheel is showing signs of fatigue. Cracks on the rim
> where one set of the wire spokes attach. I suspect many years of the PO
> using the steering wheel as something to lean on when entering and exiting
> the car.
> Is there any repair resource for these wheels, or a source (other than
eBay)
> for NOS $$$!!!??? Thanks
>
> ***********************************
> Dave Malaney
> West Bloomfield, Mi.
> 61 BN7
From "Greg Wilkinson" <gregwilkinson at adelphia.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 08:25:48 -0700
Subject: RE: BN4 Engine Weight
> -----Original Message-----
>
> Hi to all,
>
> I have been putting in serious restoration time on my BN4 by way
> of building a
> garage addition (first things first). I want to put in a ridge
> beam that will
> take a block and tackle. What does the engine weigh, with and without the
> transmission? I checked the archives but did not find the answer.
> I cannot get
> at any of my other resource material in the chaos that the rest
> of the garage
> is in. I would sure appreciate some help.
>
> Best regards,
> Dan Harris
From "James Shope" <healeymanjim at JoiMail.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 08:31:42 -0700
Subject: fuel problems
From "James Shope" <healeymanjim at JoiMail.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 09:18:08 -0700
Subject: bn2 registry
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 10:50:53 -0600
Subject: Re: Ignition Problems - Im giving up!
I think that Bob is exactly right. You do don't have things wired per
the Pertronix instructions or the instructions given to you by other
listers. The drawing in the Pertronics instruction sheet seems to be
very clear. You mentioned that you also replaced the original wire
harness. Maybe there are additional wiring errors in connecting the new
harness. As to whether the Pertronix is now "fried" it is hard to say.
Best bet at this point is to install the original points/coil setup, get
the "new" wiring harness connected correctly, & get it running.The
learning curve can be pretty steep & sometimes costly for those just
learning about electrics. Good luck.
Dave Russell
BN2
Bob Spidell wrote:
> re:
>
>
>>Here is how I had it originally wired up. I have one white wire going to
>>the (-) side of the coil. I have a blk/wht wire going to the (+) and the
>>other blk/wht wire to the dist.
>
>
> This doesn't seem right to me (caveat: I'm working from memory only).
> If I recall correctly, the white harness wire is -12V and switched by the
>ignition.
> It should go to the Pertronix unit (spliced, maybe?). The other lead from
> the Pertronix (b/w?) should go to the (-) terminal on the coil. The (+)
> terminal on the coil should go to chassis ground (I use the b/w "security"
> wire that runs to the battery cutoff switch--it has to be moved to the other
> terminal on the cutoff switch).
>
> re:
>
>
>>The coil gets hot while turning over the
>>engine
>
>
> This doesn't sound good ... sounds like you have a dead short through
> the coil (this would explain the lack of spark). You may have fried the
> Pertronix unit. You might try re-installing your points rig to verify.
>
>
> bs
From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 11:51:57 -0500
Subject: RE: It's Here!!! My BN4
Thanks to some keen observations by some listers, I found that the brake
system is fine. The PO did not have the clip holding the rod from the brake
to the M/C in correctly and the rod popped out I put everything back
together and the pedal pressure is fine, I will test the rest this weekend.
I hope to be driving this car around in a couple of weeks.
Patton
-----Original Message-----
From: AH102 [mailto:bluechipracing@snet.net]
Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2003 7:16 AM
To: Patton Dickson; 'healeys'
Subject: Re: It's Here!!! My BN4
Now, Here's my kind of Healey enthusiast!
Congratulations and good luck.
Jim
From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 13:05:21 -0400
Subject: RE: fuel problems
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of James Shope
Sent: 23-Sep-03 11:32 AM
To: healeys
Subject: fuel problems
thanks to you bn2 guys for the help. got the pump in and working fine.
need
help on another problem, however. after short drive the car loaded up
and was
running only on three cylinders(or less). #3 reallly looked bad, so
cleaned
up all plugs and burned them off. #3 was really stuck in the hole, like
rusted in. car ran great on 4 cyl for a while, even though lots of
black
smoke came out when first started, but eventually felt like it was
loading up.
inspection revealed a moist #3 plug, even though motor would run just on
#3
and 4 cyl. after idling for a while, lots of smoke when throttle
opened. i
suspect small leak in head gasket, but would appreciate any input from
you
experts out there. also, speedometer inop. cable is good, so suspect
angle
drive. is bn2 drive any different from bj8, other than much more
expensive.
healeymanjiim
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 11:10:16 -0600
Subject: Re: fuel problems
I would suspect carb related problems if the car is running way too
rich, which it appears to be. It could be as simple as cleaning the
float needles & seats or the choke/starting linkage not returning. I
wouldn't suspect the head gasket at this point. Do you have a fuel
filter in the line near the carbs? - A good idea.
I don't know what fuel pump you ended up with but if the pressure is
over three psi it can cause carb problems.
I don't believe that the angle drives are interchangeable.
Dave Russell
BN2
James Shope wrote:
> thanks to you bn2 guys for the help. got the pump in and working fine. need
> help on another problem, however. after short drive the car loaded up and was
> running only on three cylinders(or less). #3 reallly looked bad, so cleaned
> up all plugs and burned them off. #3 was really stuck in the hole, like
> rusted in. car ran great on 4 cyl for a while, even though lots of black
> smoke came out when first started, but eventually felt like it was loading up.
> inspection revealed a moist #3 plug, even though motor would run just on #3
> and 4 cyl. after idling for a while, lots of smoke when throttle opened. i
> suspect small leak in head gasket, but would appreciate any input from you
> experts out there. also, speedometer inop. cable is good, so suspect angle
> drive. is bn2 drive any different from bj8, other than much more expensive.
> healeymanjiim
From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 14:38:54 -0400
Subject: RE: It's Here!!! My BN4
Be a little cautious about that master cylinder circlip. If the groove
in the master cylinder is rounded off it may pop out again at an
inopportune moment. Depress the pedal then release it by slipping your
foot off the side a few times to make sure it stays in place. Wouldn't
want you to bend your new toy.
Cheers,
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Patton Dickson
Sent: 24-Sep-03 12:52 PM
To: 'AH102'; 'healeys'
Subject: RE: It's Here!!! My BN4
Thanks Jim,
Thanks to some keen observations by some listers, I found that the brake
system is fine. The PO did not have the clip holding the rod from the
brake
to the M/C in correctly and the rod popped out I put everything back
together and the pedal pressure is fine, I will test the rest this
weekend.
I hope to be driving this car around in a couple of weeks.
Patton
-----Original Message-----
From: AH102 [mailto:bluechipracing@snet.net]
Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2003 7:16 AM
To: Patton Dickson; 'healeys'
Subject: Re: It's Here!!! My BN4
Now, Here's my kind of Healey enthusiast!
Congratulations and good luck.
Jim
From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 14:52:21 -0400
Subject: RE: fuel problems
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: 24-Sep-03 1:05 PM
To: 'James Shope'; 'healeys'
Subject: RE: fuel problems
Hi James,
Before you start pulling the head do some more diagnosis.
I find that the easiest way to check for compression leaks is to remove
all the plugs but one, insert the end of the radiator overflow tube into
a bottle of water and spin the engine over on the starter. If the head
gasket is leaking bubbles will eventually appear in the bottle.
I would suspect that you have nothing more than a leaking carburetor
float chamber float valve. Pinch off the fuel line as it starts to load
up and see if it starts to run better as the carbs run out of fuel.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
From WhoCares56 at aol.com
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 14:57:50 EDT
Subject: Re: tricarb 2 seater
Carroll
'62 tri-carb, BN1
From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 14:01:41 -0500
Subject: Door Latch Assembly Question
Thanks
Patton
-------------------------------------
Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
Austin-Healey BN4
From "Rick Neves" <Rick at genomictechnologies.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 16:12:20 -0400
Subject: Aluminum shroud repairs
Sincerely
Rick Neves
'56 BN-2
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 14:16:34 -0600
Subject: Re: fuel problems
Do you feel that this test is an effective substitute for a differential
pressure/leakdown test?
Dave Russell
Michael Salter wrote:
> Perhaps a little further examination of the below is required.
> Each cylinder should be checked, one at a time by moving the plug from
> one to the next and checking for bubbles each time.
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Michael Salter
> Sent: 24-Sep-03 1:05 PM
> To: 'James Shope'; 'healeys'
> Subject: RE: fuel problems
>
> Hi James,
> Before you start pulling the head do some more diagnosis.
> I find that the easiest way to check for compression leaks is to remove
> all the plugs but one, insert the end of the radiator overflow tube into
> a bottle of water and spin the engine over on the starter. If the head
> gasket is leaking bubbles will eventually appear in the bottle.
> I would suspect that you have nothing more than a leaking carburetor
> float chamber float valve. Pinch off the fuel line as it starts to load
> up and see if it starts to run better as the carbs run out of fuel.
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
From N0040 at aol.com
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 17:27:46 EDT
Subject: Re: Steering wheels
Same thing with mine in BJ8.
Filled cracks and sanded. restained and repainted the plastic of hub and rim
where spokes attached. Then installed the leather wheel cover in black from
either V.B. or Moss. It's actually from Wheelskins, Inc. from Berkeley, CA
....
P/N 222-315 made for an M.G. 16=" x 2-3/8" and it fit like a glove.
(Remember, that's for a BJ8, don't know if BN7 is same wheel size)
I prefer the leather wrap instead of straight plastic wheel, although not for
concours rated cars.
Looks really nice for a "Driver" class Healey.
I hope to be at next SEMAHC meeting, will I see you there?
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 17:38:47 -0400
Subject: RE: fuel problems
It is my feeling that this is actually more effective IF THE LEAK IS
INTO THE COOLING SYSTEM, which it usually is.
In my experience leak down and compression tests do not eliminate valve
and ring problems and can lead to confusing results.
Nice thing is you can do it anywhere without any special equipment.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Dave & Marlene
Sent: 24-Sep-03 4:17 PM
To: Michael Salter
Cc: 'healeys'
Subject: Re: fuel problems
Mike,
Do you feel that this test is an effective substitute for a differential
pressure/leakdown test?
Dave Russell
Michael Salter wrote:
> Perhaps a little further examination of the below is required.
> Each cylinder should be checked, one at a time by moving the plug from
> one to the next and checking for bubbles each time.
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Michael Salter
> Sent: 24-Sep-03 1:05 PM
> To: 'James Shope'; 'healeys'
> Subject: RE: fuel problems
>
> Hi James,
> Before you start pulling the head do some more diagnosis.
> I find that the easiest way to check for compression leaks is to
remove
> all the plugs but one, insert the end of the radiator overflow tube
into
> a bottle of water and spin the engine over on the starter. If the head
> gasket is leaking bubbles will eventually appear in the bottle.
> I would suspect that you have nothing more than a leaking carburetor
> float chamber float valve. Pinch off the fuel line as it starts to
load
> up and see if it starts to run better as the carbs run out of fuel.
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 16:55:23 -0500
Subject: RE: It's Here!!! My BN4
Patton
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2003 1:39 PM
To: 'Patton Dickson'; 'AH102'; 'healeys'
Subject: RE: It's Here!!! My BN4
Patton,
Be a little cautious about that master cylinder circlip. If the groove in
the master cylinder is rounded off it may pop out again at an inopportune
moment. Depress the pedal then release it by slipping your foot off the side
a few times to make sure it stays in place. Wouldn't want you to bend your
new toy.
Cheers,
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Patton Dickson
Sent: 24-Sep-03 12:52 PM
To: 'AH102'; 'healeys'
Subject: RE: It's Here!!! My BN4
Thanks Jim,
Thanks to some keen observations by some listers, I found that the brake
system is fine. The PO did not have the clip holding the rod from the brake
to the M/C in correctly and the rod popped out I put everything back
together and the pedal pressure is fine, I will test the rest this weekend.
I hope to be driving this car around in a couple of weeks.
Patton
-----Original Message-----
From: AH102 [mailto:bluechipracing@snet.net]
Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2003 7:16 AM
To: Patton Dickson; 'healeys'
Subject: Re: It's Here!!! My BN4
Now, Here's my kind of Healey enthusiast!
Congratulations and good luck.
Jim
From James B Dalglish <leaker at exit109.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 17:59:51 -0400
Subject: Aston Martin NHC
It's in as original condition. Madagascar brown metallic, biscuit
Connaly hides. Always professionally maintained and a great car to drive
to your old colleges' football games. Beats the snot out of Porches on
the upper end.
Contact Ted Robinson
Point Pleasant, NJ
732 892 1511
Jim D
60 BT7
From "John Rued" <rudedoggg at earthlink.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 17:40:31 -0500
Subject: Freeze Plugs
I've got a BN-1 with 1700 miles on a rebuilt engine. There is weepage from
the non-carb side freeze plugs. Some trace evidence of coolant, too. It has
marred the block paint and detracts from an otherwise nice looking engine
bay.
Two shops say that weeping freeze plugs should not occur; one shop says it's
normal for some weepage to occur. One shop says to avoid quick fixes; one
shop says to flush the system and use a sealant.
What's true? Anyone have any experience with weepage?
JR
From "Alan Schultz" <alan at andysnet.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 19:25:38 -0500
Subject: Re: Steering wheels
Alan
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: <N0040@aol.com>
To: <DavidWMalaney@eaton.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2003 4:27 PM
Subject: Re: Steering wheels
> Dave,
>
> Same thing with mine in BJ8.
> Filled cracks and sanded. restained and repainted the plastic of hub and
rim
> where spokes attached. Then installed the leather wheel cover in black
from
> either V.B. or Moss. It's actually from Wheelskins, Inc. from Berkeley, CA
> ....
> P/N 222-315 made for an M.G. 16=" x 2-3/8" and it fit like a
glove.
> (Remember, that's for a BJ8, don't know if BN7 is same wheel size)
>
> I prefer the leather wrap instead of straight plastic wheel, although not
for
> concours rated cars.
>
> Looks really nice for a "Driver" class Healey.
From "Ron Fine Esq." <RonFineEsq at earthlink.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 03:47:39 -0700
Subject: Leak down test
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 18:28:05 -0700
Subject: Re: tricarb 2 seater
- HBN7L- 14494, built 6/61
- HBN7L- 15476, built 9/61
- HBT7L- 17432, built 1/62
It is certain that tri-carb cars were built in 1961.
John Snyder
> Hi Listers,
> I have always believed that tri-carbs were not built until '62 and in fact
they were only built in '62. Can it be that this car has a later engine?
That will probably impact its value.
>
> Carroll
> '62 tri-carb, BN1
From David Woerpel <dwoerpel at wi.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 20:47:21 -0500
Subject: [Fwd: Re: Steering wheels]
-------- Original Message --------
Subject: Re: Steering wheels
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 11:02:43 -0500
From: David Woerpel <dwoerpel@wi.net>
To: "'Healeys' (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References:
<ABD48471FCA3D611B69A00B0D0B0F3A979557D@dtwmiicsexmb01.ic.etn.com>
David,
If you wish to reuse the original wheel, you can repair it yourself
using the products described or pay to have the wheel repaired. I chose
the latter because I figured I'd screw something up.
I called Koch's Steering Wheel Restorations for a quote on the Bugeye
and the MGA and it was about $200/ wheel. For that I could've purchased
a repro but I wanted the original. I have had the MG wheel for 4 years
and the Sprite's for 2. IMHO, they did an excellent job. Turn around
time was about 3 weeks during the winter months. No financial interest,
just a happy customer putting in his $2 worth.
Koch's
26943 Ruether
Unit M
Canyon Country CA 91351
661.252.2834 (area code may have changed by now)
Good luck,
Dave
59 :{)
59 MGA 1500
Malaney, David W wrote:
>My original steering wheel is showing signs of fatigue. Cracks on the rim
>where one set of the wire spokes attach. I suspect many years of the PO
>using the steering wheel as something to lean on when entering and exiting
>the car.
>Is there any repair resource for these wheels, or a source (other than eBay)
>for NOS $$$!!!??? Thanks
>
>***********************************
>Dave Malaney
>West Bloomfield, Mi.
>61 BN7
from rodents and slightly vented) you can run an extension cord into it and
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 22:01:56 EDT
Subject: Re: Storage and Paint question
I have a 7 watt heat source in my gun safe and a 60 watt bulb kept my water
storage tank from freezing in a 6' x 12' x 8' wood frame pump house at 130F.
A
100 watt light bulb will use 2.4 kwh per day or 72 kwh per month. At, say,
$.15 per kwh, that's about $11.00 per month. Just be sure to change the bulb
frequently.
Steve M
In a message dated 9/21/2003 7:05:27 PM Pacific Standard Time,
besaw55@yahoo.com writes:
> has anyone in the North (read cold climate) ever stored their car
> (Dec-April) in an enclosed car trailer? Any issues?
From Stella67 at aol.com
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 22:57:44 EDT
Subject: Re: tricarb 2 seater
Have fun
John
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 21:19:34 -0600
Subject: Re: Freeze Plugs
It depends on whether the plugs are old or were replaced when the engine
was rebuilt. If they were not replaced there is not much hope of any
fix. Assuming that they are new, the dome type plugs are coated with a
sealer & flattened into a snug fitting recess in the block. This
flattening expands the plug & puts some springiness into the plug so
that it can still seal during the thermal cycling, (expansion /
contraction) of the parts. Much like an old oil can bottom.
When this type of plug leaks, it means that proper sealer was not used
or the hole was not clean or the plug was not properly flattened/expanded.
A properly installed domed plug should be nearly flat but not so flat
that it is over center which would remove the spring effect. If not
properly installed they may pop out at inconvenient times & they
certainly should not weep.
The only real fix is to properly install new plugs. Or possibly flatten
the existing plugs more to expand them. Leak stop sealers in cooling
systems are an emergency fix only. The sealer will also seal things that
should not be sealed such as coolant passages & radiator tubes. Shops
that say that weeping is normal are either too lazy to do it right or
not very bright.
Dave Russell
BN2
John Rued wrote:
> Folks,
>
> I've got a BN-1 with 1700 miles on a rebuilt engine. There is weepage from
> the non-carb side freeze plugs. Some trace evidence of coolant, too. It has
> marred the block paint and detracts from an otherwise nice looking engine
> bay.
>
> Two shops say that weeping freeze plugs should not occur; one shop says it's
> normal for some weepage to occur. One shop says to avoid quick fixes; one
> shop says to flush the system and use a sealant.
>
> What's true? Anyone have any experience with weepage?
>
> JR
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 21:58:07 -0600
Subject: Re: Leak down test
Rather than go through a long explanation see these links;
http://www.xs11.com/tips/misc/misc3.shtml
http://www.geocities.com/dsmgrrrl/FAQs/leakdown.htm
Testers are available at the better auto supply stores & one of these
references tells how to build your own tester.
The leakdown test is also called a differential pressure test in the
aviation industry. Piston type aircraft engines are "required" to be
tested in this manner & to meet certain minimum specifications.
In my experience, a street engine is sour if the test shows more than
10% leakage & race engines are often rebuilt if leakage is more than 3
to 5 percent. The test will tell if the problem is intake valves,
exhaust valves, rings, cylinder to cylinder head gasket leakage, or
leakage into the cooling system from cracks or head gasket.
Dave Russell
BN2
Ron Fine Esq. wrote:
> Dave, for those of us still learning could you take a moment to explain
> what a Leak Down test is and what does it test?
> Thanks,
> Ron
> 61BN7
> 66MGB
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 07:21:00 -0500
Subject: Re: Ignition Problems - Im giving up!
K
From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 06:14:31 -0400
Subject: Re: Ignition Problems - Im giving up!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2003 1:15 AM
Subject: Ignition Problems - Im giving up!
> I giving up!!! unless someone has any ideas.
>
> I have a new Lucas sports coil, new complete wiring harness, new spark
plug
> wires, new lucas cdist cap, new battery....actually...almost everything is
> new.
>
> Here is how I had it originally wired up. I have one white wire going to
> the (-) side of the coil. I have a blk/wht wire going to the (+) and the
> other blk/wht wire to the dist. Since I disconnected the pertronix, the
> blk/wht wire that went to the dist has been either dangling there or
> grounded (I tried both ways)
>
>
> I checked for spark from the coil wire....nothing. I changed to my old
> coil....still no spark. The coil gets hot while turning over the
> engine....but still no spark from the coil wire. The ignition switch (-)
> (white wire) on the coil turns on my test light (i don't have any
electrical
> test equipment other than a proibe test light).
>
>
> Anyone know a good electrical mechanic in No CA?
>
>
> Kenny
>
> _________________________________________________________________
\
From "M Lempert" <mlempert at bellsouth.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 07:02:35 -0400
Subject: Lister Pennell
Mike Lempert
From Trmgafun at aol.com
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 08:36:34 -0400
Subject: Re: Freeze Plugs
In addition to a group of other interesting tech articles in the
September/October '03 issue of Austin-Healey Magazine, there's an article
written by Norm Nock about removing the old core plug, and installing the new
plug. It also compares three different types, and how to install them.
Scott Helms
Subject: Re: Freeze Plugs
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 21:19:34 -0600
Sender: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
Recipient: John Rued <rudedoggg@earthlink.net>
John,
It depends on whether the plugs are old or were replaced when the engine
was rebuilt. If they were not replaced there is not much hope of any
fix. Assuming that they are new, the dome type plugs are coated with a
sealer & flattened into a snug fitting recess in the block. This
flattening expands the plug & puts some springiness into the plug so
that it can still seal during the thermal cycling, (expansion /
contraction) of the parts. Much like an old oil can bottom.
When this type of plug leaks, it means that proper sealer was not used
or the hole was not clean or the plug was not properly flattened/expanded.
A properly installed domed plug should be nearly flat but not so flat
that it is over center which would remove the spring effect. If not
properly installed they may pop out at inconvenient times & they
certainly should not weep.
The only real fix is to properly install new plugs. Or possibly flatten
the existing plugs more to expand them. Leak stop sealers in cooling
systems are an emergency fix only. The sealer will also seal things that
should not be sealed such as coolant passages & radiator tubes. Shops
that say that weeping is normal are either too lazy to do it right or
not very bright.
Dave Russell
BN2
John Rued wrote:
> Folks,
>
> I've got a BN-1 with 1700 miles on a rebuilt engine. There is weepage from
> the non-carb side freeze plugs. Some trace evidence of coolant, too. It has
> marred the block paint and detracts from an otherwise nice looking engine
> bay.
>
> Two shops say that weeping freeze plugs should not occur; one shop says it's
> normal for some weepage to occur. One shop says to avoid quick fixes; one
> shop says to flush the system and use a sealant.
>
> What's true? Anyone have any experience with weepage?
>
> JR
From "Rick Neves" <Rick at genomictechnologies.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 11:10:17 -0400
Subject: Need tracing of BN2 accelerator part.
I have not been able to locate a source for a certain replacement part for My
BN-2.
This part is the lever attached to the end of the gas pedal shaft. Its located
on the inside of the foot well. Some how when my BN-2 was disassembled 30
years ago the P.O. misplaced this as well as the bracket that holds the gas
pedal to the floor.
Moss sells the bracket but not the lever.
I believe I can fabricate this lever. What I need is some approximate
dimensions. The distance between the two holes basically. If someone has one
of these parts loose, off the car, a simple tracing of the part on a piece of
paper would suffice.
Sincerely
Rick Neves
FAX 508.376.5319
'56 BN-2
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
Healeylinedraw.jpg]
From "James Shope" <healeymanjim at JoiMail.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 08:39:56 -0700
Subject: 62 tri carbs
From "Esko & Megan Cate" <enmcate at comcast.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 09:30:12 -0700
Subject: Painting of Healeys
Esko
BJ7
From Stella67 at aol.com
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 12:37:27 -0400
Subject: Re: 62 tri carbs
Have fun!
John
From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 12:40:18 EDT
Subject: Re: 62 tri carbs
As a matter of fact, I believe that I detect brass caps on the carbs on the
bigbux BN7 now on Ebay - and, I THINK they may be 1-3/4" as well (sure look
bigger than mine) which would mean engine mods - and, obviously his engine cert
IS miswritten.
Dick Hosmer
HBT7L18556
From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 09:56:49 -0700
Subject: Re: tricarb 2 seater / Production History
(Lest we forget, some things are not for sure when it comes to Healey
production)
BT7 Mkll production started 4/61 at Chassis # 13751 - 19853 (5,096 produced)
BN7 Mkll production started 5/61 at Chassis # 13991 - 18888 (355 produced)
Total cars produced 13751 thru 19853 is 6.102, BN7/BT7 is 5,451, the
remaining 651 cars produced in this range are BJ7's that started production
2/62
at chassis # 17551.
Kirk Kvam
61/62BT7 #17139. (12/27-28/61) Tri-Carb
59/60BN7 #405. (3/26-31/59) Nasty Boy 302 Ford
(1960, 3000 series cars started production 3/59)
HISTORY
60BT7 #6613 (1/4-5/60)
(Sold 8/62, In USAF transferred to N.Dakota from Florida)
62BT7 #18970 (3/27-30/62) Tri-Carb.
(Traded 1966 for 1965 Lincoln)
----- Original Message -----
From: <WhoCares56@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2003 11:57 AM
Subject: Re: tricarb 2 seater
> Hi Listers,
> I have always believed that tri-carbs were not built until '62 and in fact
> they were only built in '62. Can it be that this car has a later engine?
> That
> will probably impact its value.
>
> Carroll
> '62 tri-carb, BN1
From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 13:06:43 EDT
Subject: Re: 62 tri carbs
In a message dated 9/25/03 9:52:05 AM, RAHosmer@aol.com writes:
> I believe that I detect brass caps on the carbs on the
> bigbux BN7 now on Ebay - and, I THINK they may be 1-3/4" as well (sure look
> bigger than mine)
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 11:18:59 -0600
Subject: Re: 62 tri carbs
My limited info shows the first tri-carb built March 61, (29E). In Jan.
62 the first BJ7 had two HS6 carbs, (29F). In Oct. 63 the BJ8 came out
with two HD8 carbs,(29K). No wonder the "hard look"
Maybe someone more knowledgeable can elaborate.
Dave Russell
James Shope wrote:
> i was always under the impression that tri-carbs were only built in late 61
> and 62. at our british car club membership picnic last sunday i was looking
> at beautiful 64 bj8 phase 1 that had tri-carbs. when i expressed my confusion
> i was gliven a hard look and decided to find out elsewhere if i was correct.
> let me know, listers. healeymanjim
From "Rick" <webmasterrick at comcast.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 12:24:06 -0500
Subject: C A R but not Healey!!!
Holy Sh*t!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Beautiful!!!
Pass around!!
Rick
From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 10:43:15 -0700
Subject: Re: 62 tri carbs
Factory production Tri-Carb on early BJ7 maybe, but not BJ8.
Early BJ7's (651) were produced during BN7-BT7 Tri-Carb production.
(Most anything was possible in Healey production)
I own 1960 '3000' BN7 #405
Produced 3/26-31/59, 1st month of 3000 production.
Factory badged as 100-6.
It is unknown for sure when 3000 badging was first installed on the
3000 series cars.
Kirk Kvam
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Shope" <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 25, 2003 8:39 AM
Subject: 62 tri carbs
> i was always under the impression that tri-carbs were only built in late
61
> and 62. at our british car club membership picnic last sunday i was
looking
> at beautiful 64 bj8 phase 1 that had tri-carbs. when i expressed my
confusion
> i was gliven a hard look and decided to find out elsewhere if i was
correct.
> let me know, listers. healeymanjim
From m.brouillette at comcast.net
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 17:56:41 +0000
Subject: Re: 62 tri carbs
Mike Brouillette
59 BT7
James Shope wrote:
> i was always under the impression that tri-carbs were only built in late 61
> and 62. at our british car club membership picnic last sunday i was looking
> at beautiful 64 bj8 phase 1 that had tri-carbs. when i expressed my
confusion
> i was gliven a hard look and decided to find out elsewhere if i was correct.
> let me know, listers. healeymanjim
From "Ron Fine Esq." <RonFineEsq at earthlink.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 01:02:24 -0700
Subject: Re: Leak down test
From Win Graham <win at gmi.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 17:28:44 -0500
Subject: I've got a leak
At the risk of sounding very inexperienced with cars (oh wait, I am) can
anybody tell me what is leaking, where it is coming from and how to
fix/refill it? Thanks
Win Graham
63 BJ7
From "Kenny Johnson" <theswed at hotmail.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 15:30:24 -0700
Subject: Ignition Problems - Im giving up.....problem found
I finally found out the problem.....my Pertronix uinit is defective.. I am
going to get a replacement. In the meantime I am converting her back to
points. I should be starting her this weekend.
Thanks again.
Kenny
61 BT-7
_________________________________________________________________
Get McAfee virus scanning and cleaning of incoming attachments. Get Hotmail
Extra Storage! http://join.msn.com/?PAGE=features/es
From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 15:31:05 -0700
Subject: 50k BN7 Mkll on Ebay
Atrocious tonneau fit.
Orange beehive turn signal lenses.
Non painted, bare aluminum wind screen pillars.
Driver door rear margin fit.
Driver door interior panel stitching crooked.
Driver door shut pillar welt finisher missing.
(and most obvious)
Boot lid, 'Austin Healey' and '3000 flash' badges missing.
It's a shame bidder identities are withheld on this auction
so that they could be informed of the apparent discrepancies.
Kirk
From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 20:33:44 -0700
Subject: Re: fuel problems
Check the speedometer bearing. If the bearing freezes it breaks the cable
inside the angle drive.
John
'62 BT7
At 08:31 AM 9/23/03 -0700, James Shope wrote:
>.... also, speedometer inop. cable is good, so suspect angle
>drive.
From "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine at hotmail.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 22:45:38 -0400
Subject: BN2L233007: Steve McQueen Connection?
Recently received the below message (below my signature). Please respond
directly to Alan Burton if you can help. Thanks.
Note to Alan,
This message is being sent to several hundred Healey-interested people, and
if anyone can help trace the history of the car, they are likely receiving
this message. As you see, I have asked them to respond directly to you if
they can shed any light. Frankly, I'd estimate that the chances of turning
up anything are very, very remote, but it doesn't hurt to ask. Good luck.
Reid Trummel
Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
http://www.healey.org
-----------------------------
Dear Sir
I am the owner of Austin Healey 100/4, UK reg. no. XSV 217, chassis no
BN2L233007. Its last owner in the USA was Mr. Daniel Dallas Frank of 262
San Carlos Road, Prescott, Arizona AZ 86301, then registered AWX 193. I
believe Mr. Frank bought the car from "Classic Consignments Inc." in Arizona
on 8 Oct 1981.
The car was exported from England to the USA in 1956, then re-exported back
where it underwent a "ground up" restoration in 1990, retaining its US
L.H.D. configuration. There is some evidence the car may have been owned by
the actor, Steve McQueen; apparently Mr. Frank's son had seen the car stored
in an ex aircraft hangar at Fontana Airfield, near San Bernardino where I
believe McQueen stored his cars and bikes. I myself saw the car before
restoration and it had certainly had some sort of hard, competitive past,
then being painted mid blue with racing spots and numbers, etc.
Obviously, if it can be proven to be true that Steve McQueen had some
connection with this car, it would be a very important part of the car's
history and should, I am sure you will agree, be established. I would,
therefore, ask you your advice on how I could trace the cars ownership in
the USA, if in fact this is possible with a car of this age.
I hope this does not put you to too much trouble but any information or
suggestions you may have would be appreciated
Alan Burton
_________________________________________________________________
Help protect your PC. Get a FREE computer virus scan online from McAfee.
http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963
From John Harper <AH at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 08:07:52 +0100
Subject: Re: BN2L233007: Steve McQueen Connection?
We have information about this 100 recorded in the UK 100 register dated
May 1992. Obviously I cannot make this public but if Alan would like to
contact me off line I will see what we can do.
You may be interested to know that if you had looked up our WEB site you
would have found that we knew something about this car.
All the best
John Harper
AHC UK 100 Register
>
>Recently received the below message (below my signature). Please
>respond directly to Alan Burton if you can help. Thanks.
>
>Note to Alan,
>
>This message is being sent to several hundred Healey-interested people,
>and if anyone can help trace the history of the car, they are likely
>receiving this message. As you see, I have asked them to respond
>directly to you if they can shed any light. Frankly, I'd estimate that
>the chances of turning up anything are very, very remote, but it
>doesn't hurt to ask. Good luck.
>
>Reid Trummel
>Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
>http://www.healey.org
>-----------------------------
>
>Dear Sir
>
>I am the owner of Austin Healey 100/4, UK reg. no. XSV 217, chassis no
>BN2L233007. Its last owner in the USA was Mr. Daniel Dallas Frank of
>262 San Carlos Road, Prescott, Arizona AZ 86301, then registered AWX
>193. I believe Mr. Frank bought the car from "Classic Consignments
>Inc." in Arizona on 8 Oct 1981.
>
>The car was exported from England to the USA in 1956, then re-exported
>back where it underwent a "ground up" restoration in 1990, retaining
>its US L.H.D. configuration. There is some evidence the car may have
>been owned by the actor, Steve McQueen; apparently Mr. Frank's son had
>seen the car stored in an ex aircraft hangar at Fontana Airfield, near
>San Bernardino where I believe McQueen stored his cars and bikes. I
>myself saw the car before restoration and it had certainly had some
>sort of hard, competitive past, then being painted mid blue with racing
>spots and numbers, etc.
>
>Obviously, if it can be proven to be true that Steve McQueen had some
>connection with this car, it would be a very important part of the
>car's history and should, I am sure you will agree, be established. I
>would, therefore, ask you your advice on how I could trace the cars
>ownership in the USA, if in fact this is possible with a car of this age.
>
>I hope this does not put you to too much trouble but any information or
>suggestions you may have would be appreciated
>
>Alan Burton
--
John Harper
From "Vink, Graham" <vinkg at fleishman.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 08:25:42 -0500
Subject: Rant about electronic ignitions (was Ignition Problems - Im
Yes, the electronic versions provide a "better" spark, but the originals
work just fine in run-of-the-mill, unmodified engines. You can adjust
them by the side of the road if you have to. You can replace them with a
spare set (assuming you carry one) in five minutes. And, yes, the
electronic versions can help compensate for a wobbly distributor, but
why not fix the distributor - once - and then never worry about it again
for the next 100,000 miles?
Plus, setting the point gap and getting it exactly right (usually after
several tries!) is one of those satisfying mechanical chores that helps
cement the bond between man and machine (or woman and machine, as the
case may be).
In 30 years of messing around with cars, I've never had a set of points
fail. And on various sports car lists, I'm always reading about the
failure of electronic ignitions, especially Pertronix. So in this case,
I vote for obsolete technology.
Just my two cents ...
Graham
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 07:33:30 -0700
Subject: Re: Rant about electronic ignitions (was Ignition Problems - Im
> In 30 years of messing around with cars, I've never had a set of points
> fail.
I have.
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 26, 2003 6:25 AM
Subject: Rant about electronic ignitions (was Ignition Problems - Im givin g up)
> Not to be a spoilsport, but I don't understand why so many people want
> to replace their points with electronic ignitions.
>
> Yes, the electronic versions provide a "better" spark, but the originals
> work just fine in run-of-the-mill, unmodified engines. You can adjust
> them by the side of the road if you have to. You can replace them with a
> spare set (assuming you carry one) in five minutes. And, yes, the
> electronic versions can help compensate for a wobbly distributor, but
> why not fix the distributor - once - and then never worry about it again
> for the next 100,000 miles?
>
> Plus, setting the point gap and getting it exactly right (usually after
> several tries!) is one of those satisfying mechanical chores that helps
> cement the bond between man and machine (or woman and machine, as the
> case may be).
>
> In 30 years of messing around with cars, I've never had a set of points
> fail. And on various sports car lists, I'm always reading about the
> failure of electronic ignitions, especially Pertronix. So in this case,
> I vote for obsolete technology.
>
> Just my two cents ...
>
> Graham
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 10:27:05 -0600
Subject: Re: Rant about electronic ignitions (was Ignition Problems - Im
I have never considered that fiddling with the points is cementing any
bond. Much better cemented by trouble free driving.
Probably the car manufacturers have been using electronic ignition for
the last 30 years just to save money - Not.
And yes- I have seen numerous instances of points closing up & retarding
timing due to rubbing block wear.
I guess that you use what you are most comfortable with.
Dave Russell
Vink, Graham wrote:
> Not to be a spoilsport, but I don't understand why so many people want
> to replace their points with electronic ignitions.
>
> Yes, the electronic versions provide a "better" spark, but the originals
> work just fine in run-of-the-mill, unmodified engines. You can adjust
> them by the side of the road if you have to. You can replace them with a
> spare set (assuming you carry one) in five minutes. And, yes, the
> electronic versions can help compensate for a wobbly distributor, but
> why not fix the distributor - once - and then never worry about it again
> for the next 100,000 miles?
>
> Plus, setting the point gap and getting it exactly right (usually after
> several tries!) is one of those satisfying mechanical chores that helps
> cement the bond between man and machine (or woman and machine, as the
> case may be).
>
> In 30 years of messing around with cars, I've never had a set of points
> fail. And on various sports car lists, I'm always reading about the
> failure of electronic ignitions, especially Pertronix. So in this case,
> I vote for obsolete technology.
>
> Just my two cents ...
>
> Graham
From "BJ8 Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 16:35:31 -0700
Subject: Paging Tom Blaskovics
It's a spare engine held by Dr. James Wilson in Glasgow, Scotland.
Cheers!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 16:45:25 -0400
Subject: Smokey the regulator
Thanks,
Mick Vander Ploeg
From Charlie Baldwin <ewsinc at suscom.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 17:17:00 -0400
Subject: Re: 50k BN7 Mkll on Ebay
Charlie
'62 BT7 tricarb HBT7L 16323
62BT7 wrote:
>Further inspection of the photos for this "totally correct" BN7
>Mkll Tri-Carb revealed to me the following un-correctness
>
>Atrocious tonneau fit.
>Orange beehive turn signal lenses.
>Non painted, bare aluminum wind screen pillars.
>Driver door rear margin fit.
>Driver door interior panel stitching crooked.
>Driver door shut pillar welt finisher missing.
> (and most obvious)
>Boot lid, 'Austin Healey' and '3000 flash' badges missing.
>
>It's a shame bidder identities are withheld on this auction
>so that they could be informed of the apparent discrepancies.
>
>Kirk
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 16:36:14 -0500
Subject: Fwd: Rant about electronic ignitions (was Ignition Problems -
----------- Original Message -----------
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Sent To: vinkg@fleishman.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Rant about electronic ignitions (was Ignition Problems - Im
givin g up)
Date Sent: 26 Sep 2003 04:34 PM
i've had two electronic systems fail on the road ( not pertronics ) and
fortunately i had a point assembly along where i could convert back to the
tried and true lucas system. needless to say, i have no non-authentic parts
except for my HALO sparkplugs !!
Vink, Graham wrote:
>
> Not to be a spoilsport, but I don't understand why so many people want
> to replace their points with electronic ignitions.
>
> Yes, the electronic versions provide a "better" spark, but the originals
> work just fine in run-of-the-mill, unmodified engines. You can adjust
> them by the side of the road if you have to. You can replace them with a
> spare set (assuming you carry one) in five minutes. And, yes, the
> electronic versions can help compensate for a wobbly distributor, but
> why not fix the distributor - once - and then never worry about it again
> for the next 100,000 miles?
>
> Plus, setting the point gap and getting it exactly right (usually after
> several tries!) is one of those satisfying mechanical chores that helps
> cement the bond between man and machine (or woman and machine, as the
> case may be).
>
> In 30 years of messing around with cars, I've never had a set of points
> fail. And on various sports car lists, I'm always reading about the
> failure of electronic ignitions, especially Pertronix. So in this case,
> I vote for obsolete technology.
>
> Just my two cents ...
>
> Graham
>
> *** h Original Message ---------
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 14:42:57 -0700
Subject: Re: Rant about electronic ignitions (was Ignition Problems -
re:
> The other problem with the electronic ignition is that our ignition
> systems are designed for points ignition and if you look inside the
> distributor cap of the two styles they are made very differntly. The
> electronic rotors and caps have a lot more material to insulate the spark
> from arcing to ground.
Methinks this is irrelevant, unless you've boosted the spark with a performance
(or "sports") coil. Points are a dead short to ground, allowing the full
current to
flow through the coil and achieving full coil secondary voltage (depending on
the
coil's secondary/primary winding ratio and the spark gap). Electronic ignitions
use a power transistor to switch current, and (to my knowledge) all transistors
have some impedance even when forward biased, so you don't get full current flow
and therefore get (probably slightly) less primary/secondary voltage (assuming
plug
gap and other variables remain the same).
I'll agree that if you're using a performance or "sports" coil and a larger plug
gap you'll get greater secondary voltage--that's the whole point!--and
therefore
a possibility that other components (cap, rotor, wires) will break down and arc
or
cross-fire. But this may happen whether you're using points or an electronic
ignition. Modern electronic, high-voltage ignition systems are designed to
handle
the greater voltages and, no, our old Healey ignitions aren't. But if you
aren't
using a performance coil--or if you don't open up the plug gaps--this is moot.
David's info is first-hand and all but indisputable, but I've had my Pertronix
unit for upwards of 15,000 miles and it's been flawless. I did hear some
early Pertronix units were unreliable, so maybe he's seeing some older units
fail. Bear in mind ALL new cars use electronic ignition; if there was an
inherent
flaw you'd see cars stranded all over the place (anybody want to argue modern
cars are less reliable than a Healey ;). Also keep in mind that the Pertronix
(Hall Effect)
and Crane (optical) systems operate on different principles; I'd be interested
to know
the MTBF data for the respective types (I've never been a fan of the optical
types).
In other news, read the other day that Pertronix now has a unit (probably
not for Healeys, yet) with a built-in microprocessor that automatically
adjusts spark "dwell" for all engine speeds. Bet that one's a little
unreliable--at
least the early production units--but just might give a racer an edge.
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Nock" <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 26, 2003 8:59 AM
Subject: Re: Rant about electronic ignitions (was Ignition Problems - Imgivin g
up)
> on 9/26/03 7:33 AM, Bob Spidell at bspidell@pacbell.net wrote:
>
> > re:
> >
> >> In 30 years of messing around with cars, I've never had a set of points
> >> fail.
> >
> >
> > I have.
> >
> >
> > bs
> > ********************************************
> > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
> > '67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
> > ********************************************
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
> > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Friday, September 26, 2003 6:25 AM
> > Subject: Rant about electronic ignitions (was Ignition Problems - Im givin g
> > up)
> >
> >
> >> Not to be a spoilsport, but I don't understand why so many people want
> >> to replace their points with electronic ignitions.
> >>
> >> Yes, the electronic versions provide a "better" spark, but the originals
> >> work just fine in run-of-the-mill, unmodified engines. You can adjust
> >> them by the side of the road if you have to. You can replace them with a
> >> spare set (assuming you carry one) in five minutes. And, yes, the
> >> electronic versions can help compensate for a wobbly distributor, but
> >> why not fix the distributor - once - and then never worry about it again
> >> for the next 100,000 miles?
> >>
> >> Plus, setting the point gap and getting it exactly right (usually after
> >> several tries!) is one of those satisfying mechanical chores that helps
> >> cement the bond between man and machine (or woman and machine, as the
> >> case may be).
> >>
> >> In 30 years of messing around with cars, I've never had a set of points
> >> fail. And on various sports car lists, I'm always reading about the
> >> failure of electronic ignitions, especially Pertronix. So in this case,
> >> I vote for obsolete technology.
> >>
> >> Just my two cents ...
> >>
> >> Graham
>
>
>
> We have been involved since the late 50s in the British cars and in that
> time we have had probably 20 sets of point that have failed and that is
> usually caused by another part of the electrical system. Key left on, faulty
> condensor or coil.
>
> We were replacing electronic ignition systems as a dealer in the late
> 70s and 80s at a rate of probably 2 per day. We have installed lots of
> Pertronix and Crane systems and we have had probably 10 or 15 fail this year
> alone.
> The other problem with the electronic ignition is that our ignition
> systems are designed for points ignition and if you look inside the
> distributor cap of the two styles they are made very differntly. The
> electronic rotors and caps have a lot more material to insulate the spark
> from arcing to ground.
> Then also remember that if a set of points fails they usually have just
> closed up so all you will need to do is open up the point gap and go on your
> way.
> It is not a matter of if but when your electronic ignition system fails
> you call a tow truck.
> --
> David Nock
> British Car Specialists
> Stockton Ca
> 209-948-8767 Fax209-948-1030
> http://www.britishcarspecialists.com
From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 18:43:01 -0400
Subject: Re: e-Bay -- Item #2434578862 100-4 hardtop ??
Thanks,
CB
From "Tim Davis" <tld6008 at mchsi.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 21:03:36 -0500
Subject: apology
With that off my chest, I am having difficulty determining the correct
orientation for the weather-strip section between the edge of the dash pad and
the edge of the door. The above book shows pieces that look different than the
ones I recently purchased from Moss.
From "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine at hotmail.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 23:45:33 -0400
Subject: Re: 50k BN7 Mkll on Ebay
Normally I would agree with your sentiment that, "It's a shame bidder
identities are withheld on this auction
so that they could be informed of the apparent discrepancies," but I smell
shill bidding, and what better way to disguise it than by hiding bidders'
identities?
After all, when was the last time you saw a Healey bid up this high on eBay?
(It's the highest bid I can ever recall for a Healey on eBay.) Whadduya
bet it doesn't sell, and then reappears sometime later?
Reid
Reid Trummel
Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
http://www.healey.org
>From: Charlie Baldwin <ewsinc@suscom.net>
>Reply-To: Charlie Baldwin <ewsinc@suscom.net>
>To: 62BT7 <62BT7@prodigy.net>, Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: 50k BN7 Mkll on Ebay
>Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 17:17:00 -0400
>
>Good points, Kirk. If Roger Los' catalog at his website
>http://www.austinhealey.com is correct a black over red Mk. II should have
>a red interior not black.
>
>Charlie
>'62 BT7 tricarb HBT7L 16323
>
>62BT7 wrote:
>
>>Further inspection of the photos for this "totally correct" BN7 Mkll
>>Tri-Carb revealed to me the following un-correctness
>>
>>Atrocious tonneau fit.
>>Orange beehive turn signal lenses.
>>Non painted, bare aluminum wind screen pillars.
>>Driver door rear margin fit.
>>Driver door interior panel stitching crooked.
>>Driver door shut pillar welt finisher missing.
>> (and most obvious)
>>Boot lid, 'Austin Healey' and '3000 flash' badges missing.
>>
>>It's a shame bidder identities are withheld on this auction
>>so that they could be informed of the apparent discrepancies.
>>
>>Kirk
_________________________________________________________________
Instant message with integrated webcam using MSN Messenger 6.0. Try it now
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From "James Shope" <healeymanjim at JoiMail.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 20:46:26 -0700
Subject: electronic ignition
From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2003 08:22:35 -0400
Subject: Re: 50k BN7 Mkll on Ebay
----- Original Message -----
From: "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine@hotmail.com>
To: <62BT7@prodigy.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 26, 2003 11:45 PM
Subject: Re: 50k BN7 Mkll on Ebay
> Kirk,
>
> Normally I would agree with your sentiment that, "It's a shame bidder
> identities are withheld on this auction
> so that they could be informed of the apparent discrepancies," but I smell
> shill bidding, and what better way to disguise it than by hiding bidders'
> identities?
>
> After all, when was the last time you saw a Healey bid up this high on
eBay?
> (It's the highest bid I can ever recall for a Healey on eBay.) Whadduya
> bet it doesn't sell, and then reappears sometime later?
>
> Reid
>
> Reid Trummel
> Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
> http://www.healey.org
>
>
> >From: Charlie Baldwin <ewsinc@suscom.net>
> >Reply-To: Charlie Baldwin <ewsinc@suscom.net>
> >To: 62BT7 <62BT7@prodigy.net>, Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> >Subject: Re: 50k BN7 Mkll on Ebay
> >Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 17:17:00 -0400
> >
> >Good points, Kirk. If Roger Los' catalog at his website
> >http://www.austinhealey.com is correct a black over red Mk. II should
have
> >a red interior not black.
> >
> >Charlie
> >'62 BT7 tricarb HBT7L 16323
> >
> >62BT7 wrote:
> >
> >>Further inspection of the photos for this "totally correct" BN7 Mkll
> >>Tri-Carb revealed to me the following un-correctness
> >>
> >>Atrocious tonneau fit.
> >>Orange beehive turn signal lenses.
> >>Non painted, bare aluminum wind screen pillars.
> >>Driver door rear margin fit.
> >>Driver door interior panel stitching crooked.
> >>Driver door shut pillar welt finisher missing.
> >> (and most obvious)
> >>Boot lid, 'Austin Healey' and '3000 flash' badges missing.
> >>
> >>It's a shame bidder identities are withheld on this auction
> >>so that they could be informed of the apparent discrepancies.
> >>
> >>Kirk
From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2003 07:51:11 -0500
Subject: Re: Smokey the regulator
My new regulator actually came with directions and says thaqt a bit of
smoking on first startup is to be expected. Nothing to worry about unless
it doesn't go away in about a minute.
Cheers,
Chris
> I finally cured my engine of all fuel and oil leaks and let it run for a
while
> this afternoon. Sounded great, 40lbs of oil pressure, no problems...until
I
> noticed a little bit of smoke rising up from the voltage regulator. I
quickly
> shut off the engine, disconnected the battery, & pulled the cover off the
> regulator. None of the wires were hot, & I didn't notice any sign of
> overheating inside the regulator itself. Could this just be a brand new
> regulator burning off some crud, or is something seriously wrong. Is
there an
> easy way to check?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mick Vander Ploeg
From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2003 09:27:50 -0400
Subject: RE: Smokey the regulator
Although everything is probably OK I would recommend polarizing the
generator before you run the engine again, just to be sure.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Mick VanderPloeg
Sent: 26-Sep-03 4:45 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Smokey the regulator
I finally cured my engine of all fuel and oil leaks and let it run for a
while
this afternoon. Sounded great, 40lbs of oil pressure, no
problems...until I
noticed a little bit of smoke rising up from the voltage regulator. I
quickly
shut off the engine, disconnected the battery, & pulled the cover off
the
regulator. None of the wires were hot, & I didn't notice any sign of
overheating inside the regulator itself. Could this just be a brand new
regulator burning off some crud, or is something seriously wrong. Is
there an
easy way to check?
Thanks,
Mick Vander Ploeg
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2003 10:02:26 -0400
Subject: Scuttle Seals (was Re: apology)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 26, 2003 10:03 PM
Subject: apology
You wrote <snip>
I am having difficulty determining the correct
> orientation for the weather-strip section between the edge of the dash pad
and
> the edge of the door. The above book shows pieces that look different than
the
> ones I recently purchased from Moss.
From Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2003 07:23:03 -0700
Subject: Re: 50k BN7 Mkll on Ebay
I would hope to give folks the benefit of the doubt in terms of
suspecting less than honest activities but having been active on eBay as
both a seller and a buyer
this in fact does look fishy. I believe most folks would have done alot
of research with AHUSA or the BCF before committing to a 50K purchase.
Or perhaps
this is a very well done restoration (although with some incorrectness
as pointed out in previous threads) and the bidders have had a first
hand look (ie local buyers).
Yea - "that's my story and I'm sticking to it".
Jeeze - one could afford to commission some high end professional
photographs and have them air-brushed / retouched for flaws then have a
marketing type do-up the
ad in top end graphics for the web for a 50K price tag. Even at 10% for
the ad one would still fetch 45K.
Maybe I am just jealous. I would need to put another 20K into my car
before I would say "flawless/rust free/totally restored" and not wince
when saying it.
I do not expect to get financially what I have into my 1960BT7 - ever.
But I do seem to be getting all the other ROI in terms of great driving
days, great folks and a sense
of pride that only comes from keeping a 43 year old car running strong
and safe.
How about this months mag? Just received it in the post - I grew up in
the Aspen area and was delighted with the Colorado Grand article.
Now I am rambling again. Its off to a shine and show at the Morgan Hill
California Taste of Morgan hill celebration. Better go wipe off the car.
Happy Healeying !!
Tracy Drummond
Reid Trummel wrote:
> Kirk,
>
> Normally I would agree with your sentiment that, "It's a shame bidder
> identities are withheld on this auction
> so that they could be informed of the apparent discrepancies," but I
> smell shill bidding, and what better way to disguise it than by hiding
> bidders' identities?
>
> After all, when was the last time you saw a Healey bid up this high on
> eBay? (It's the highest bid I can ever recall for a Healey on eBay.)
> Whadduya bet it doesn't sell, and then reappears sometime later?
>
> Reid
>
> Reid Trummel
> Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
> http://www.healey.org
>
>
>> From: Charlie Baldwin <ewsinc@suscom.net>
>> Reply-To: Charlie Baldwin <ewsinc@suscom.net>
>> To: 62BT7 <62BT7@prodigy.net>, Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
>> Subject: Re: 50k BN7 Mkll on Ebay
>> Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 17:17:00 -0400
>>
>> Good points, Kirk. If Roger Los' catalog at his website
>> http://www.austinhealey.com is correct a black over red Mk. II should
>> have a red interior not black.
>>
>> Charlie
>> '62 BT7 tricarb HBT7L 16323
>>
>> 62BT7 wrote:
>>
>>> Further inspection of the photos for this "totally correct" BN7 Mkll
>>> Tri-Carb revealed to me the following un-correctness
>>>
>>> Atrocious tonneau fit.
>>> Orange beehive turn signal lenses.
>>> Non painted, bare aluminum wind screen pillars.
>>> Driver door rear margin fit.
>>> Driver door interior panel stitching crooked.
>>> Driver door shut pillar welt finisher missing.
>>> (and most obvious)
>>> Boot lid, 'Austin Healey' and '3000 flash' badges missing.
>>>
>>> It's a shame bidder identities are withheld on this auction
>>> so that they could be informed of the apparent discrepancies.
>>>
>>> Kirk
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2003 08:26:12 -0700
Subject: Re: Rant about electronic ignitions (was Ignition Problems -
Good to hear from you -
Re - Healey distributor, points and rotors.
Our ATW2000 Healey is a 1962 BT7 Mk II 2 + 2 Tri-carb w/centre change
gearbox (converted to twin 1.75" SU s' for ease of fitting a foam air
filter)
I sent the distributor, Type DM6, away to our local Lucas agent for a
complete over haul, they in turn, sent it to Holden Vintage & Classic
www.holden.co.uk It came back as new with Lucas points and rotor.
During a very limited running-in period, I had a rotor arm fail.
The points gap were set at .015" when warm with the Champion NY12C plugs
set at .025" gap. The engine compression ratio was reduced to 7.5 : 1 to
allow for low Octane fuel en-route. Since then I have gone back to the
standard 9 : 1 CR still with the same settings. Factory settings were
used throughout.
During the whole 20,000 mile home to home trip the engine always started
and did not miss a beat at all. None of the ignition items - plugs,
points,condenser, coil or rotor needed replacing and were not adjusted.
I applied the Golden Rule to British Sports Cars - "If it works, don't
fiddle with it"
However - Not too long after we returned, I did have the condenser fail
-simptoms - intermittant mis-fire. In addition, another rotor arm
failed. As a matter of course, I replaced the points and plugs at
25,000 miles.
The only problem on the Open Roads 2002 tour was a breakage in the low
tension lead actually in the distributor, (In Death Valley with the
temp. at 120 F + ) this took 20 minutes to fix. 9000 miles round trip in
5 weeks.
To date, XRU100 has covered 35,000 miles with the absolute minimum of
electrical problems.
My other Healey, a '63 Mk II BJ7, owned since 1969, gave no problems up
until she was laid up for an 8 year period 1989/97 with no attention.
Basic ignition items and rubber seals had to be replaced and since then
I have had three rotor arms fail. Two within 2,000 miles.
I cannot see the reason to change to electronic ignition on a 1950's
design of car - maybe go to a Mallory distributor if you want to go
racing. The Lucas distributor is very easy to service and set up correctly.
Rotor Arms are giving a lot of problems as they can fail with no warning
at all and with no physical sign of damage. Is this happening to owners
of other British Sports Cars that use the Healey Lucas range of
distributors? I have heard that a more robust model of rotor arm that
fits the Healey distributors is not giving the same problems but I do
not know the model number - any ideas?
Motto - carry several spares.
By all means pass on all, or part, of above - Hope it helps.
Regards,
Peter
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Loftus" <loftusdesign@cox.net>
To: <ann@hunt.sol.co.uk>
Sent: Friday, September 26, 2003 6:19 PM
Subject: Points questions
> Hello Peter and Ann,
>
> During your presentation at the Open Roads 2002 in Tahoe I recall
> hearing that you made the ATW80 with standard points in the ignition
> sytem (vs. an electronic type unit). Before I pass this information on
> to some others on the Healey list I wanted to see if you would
elaborate further with any other details. For example, did you replace
the points during the trip and if so how many times. Did you readjust
the points/timing and with what frequency. Also, we seem to be having
> problems with bad rotors in the parts pool. Any rotor problems on the
> trip? Was the distributor completely refurbished or new before the
> trip? Hope this is not an inconvenience to pass on this information.
>
> Cheers,
> John Loftus
From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2003 11:10:12 -0400
Subject: Fw: 50k BN7 Mkll on Ebay
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tracy Drummond" <bighealey@charter.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine@hotmail.com>
Cc: <62BT7@prodigy.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 27, 2003 10:23 AM
Subject: Re: 50k BN7 Mkll on Ebay
| Reid,
|
| I would hope to give folks the benefit of the doubt in terms of
| suspecting less than honest activities but having been active on eBay as
| both a seller and a buyer
| this in fact does look fishy. I believe most folks would have done alot
| of research with AHUSA or the BCF before committing to a 50K purchase.
| Or perhaps
| this is a very well done restoration (although with some incorrectness
| as pointed out in previous threads) and the bidders have had a first
| hand look (ie local buyers).
| Yea - "that's my story and I'm sticking to it".
|
| Jeeze - one could afford to commission some high end professional
| photographs and have them air-brushed / retouched for flaws then have a
| marketing type do-up the
| ad in top end graphics for the web for a 50K price tag. Even at 10% for
| the ad one would still fetch 45K.
|
| Maybe I am just jealous. I would need to put another 20K into my car
| before I would say "flawless/rust free/totally restored" and not wince
| when saying it.
|
| I do not expect to get financially what I have into my 1960BT7 - ever.
| But I do seem to be getting all the other ROI in terms of great driving
| days, great folks and a sense
| of pride that only comes from keeping a 43 year old car running strong
| and safe.
|
| How about this months mag? Just received it in the post - I grew up in
| the Aspen area and was delighted with the Colorado Grand article.
|
| Now I am rambling again. Its off to a shine and show at the Morgan Hill
| California Taste of Morgan hill celebration. Better go wipe off the car.
|
| Happy Healeying !!
|
| Tracy Drummond
|
| Reid Trummel wrote:
|
| > Kirk,
| >
| > Normally I would agree with your sentiment that, "It's a shame bidder
| > identities are withheld on this auction
| > so that they could be informed of the apparent discrepancies," but I
| > smell shill bidding, and what better way to disguise it than by hiding
| > bidders' identities?
| >
| > After all, when was the last time you saw a Healey bid up this high on
| > eBay? (It's the highest bid I can ever recall for a Healey on eBay.)
| > Whadduya bet it doesn't sell, and then reappears sometime later?
| >
| > Reid
| >
| > Reid Trummel
| > Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
| > http://www.healey.org
| >
| >
| >> From: Charlie Baldwin <ewsinc@suscom.net>
| >> Reply-To: Charlie Baldwin <ewsinc@suscom.net>
| >> To: 62BT7 <62BT7@prodigy.net>, Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
| >> Subject: Re: 50k BN7 Mkll on Ebay
| >> Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 17:17:00 -0400
| >>
| >> Good points, Kirk. If Roger Los' catalog at his website
| >> http://www.austinhealey.com is correct a black over red Mk. II should
| >> have a red interior not black.
| >>
| >> Charlie
| >> '62 BT7 tricarb HBT7L 16323
| >>
| >> 62BT7 wrote:
| >>
| >>> Further inspection of the photos for this "totally correct" BN7 Mkll
| >>> Tri-Carb revealed to me the following un-correctness
| >>>
| >>> Atrocious tonneau fit.
| >>> Orange beehive turn signal lenses.
| >>> Non painted, bare aluminum wind screen pillars.
| >>> Driver door rear margin fit.
| >>> Driver door interior panel stitching crooked.
| >>> Driver door shut pillar welt finisher missing.
| >>> (and most obvious)
| >>> Boot lid, 'Austin Healey' and '3000 flash' badges missing.
| >>>
| >>> It's a shame bidder identities are withheld on this auction
| >>> so that they could be informed of the apparent discrepancies.
| >>>
| >>> Kirk
|
From "Gilmours" <gilmour at chesapeake.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2003 13:23:42 -0400
Subject: Re: 50K BN7 on Ebay
From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2003 10:49:57 -0700
Subject: F Y I Non Healey
If anyone is interested see E-Bay listing #2434663428.
My apologies if I offended anyone.
Kirk Kvam
62BT7
60BN7 (Nasty Boy 302 Ford)
From "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2003 20:41:09 +0200
Subject: Support frame / bonnet hinges
1) Now that I have my BJ8 back from the guy who built and fitted a new chassis
under it, time has come for me to start cutting rotten pieces out and welding
better ones in.
To facilitate working, I made a support frame on 4 castor wheels, welded from
square tubes available off-the-shelf and adjustable in 3 heights. Very simple
but very effective, if I may say so.
In case there are any Listers interested in pictures showing the construction
please contact me off-list and I'll e-mail.
2) Picking up the bonnet hinges I noted they're different, obviously a RH and
a LH one. Can anyone tell me which is which?
Thanks in advance, as usual.
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
1964 BJ8 29432
1974 BMW 75/6
From "BJ8 Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2003 15:31:58 -0700
Subject: Re: Support frame / bonnet hinges
The curved part of the hinge that disappears into the firewall has a
stamped-in stiffener. This stiffener is CONCAVE on the inboard side of the
hinge in both left and right hinges.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Jaap Aeckerlin
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Saturday, September 27, 2003 11:41 AM
Subject: Support frame / bonnet hinges
Listers,
1) Now that I have my BJ8 back from the guy who built and fitted a new
chassis
under it, time has come for me to start cutting rotten pieces out and
welding
better ones in.
To facilitate working, I made a support frame on 4 castor wheels, welded
from
square tubes available off-the-shelf and adjustable in 3 heights. Very
simple
but very effective, if I may say so.
In case there are any Listers interested in pictures showing the
construction
please contact me off-list and I'll e-mail.
2) Picking up the bonnet hinges I noted they're different, obviously a RH
and
a LH one. Can anyone tell me which is which?
Thanks in advance, as usual.
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
1964 BJ8 29432
1974 BMW 75/6
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2003 12:57:47 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: BN1 Gearbox Ratios
Thanks,
Alan
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2003 13:03:42 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: question about A90 Atlantic rear end (i.e. BN1 compatible rear
I just inspected (for the first time today) the rear
end from an A90 Atlantic that I bought. It has a
4.125:1 (i.e. 33:8) diff in it. I thought all of the
A90s had a 3.66:1 (33:9) diff in it. Very
dissapointed finding this as I was hoping to get a
3.66 rear end. Does anyone know which A90s had the
3.66 rear end, and which had 4.125s? I'd like to keep
my eye out for one, that's all. I assume the Aussie
listers must know all about this....
Thanks,
Alan
From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2003 17:21:18 EDT
Subject: Re: Smokey the regulator
From Douglas W Flagg <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2003 17:41:39 -0400
Subject: Re:BN4 Questions??
Happy Healeying,
Doug
'56 BN2
________________________________________________________________
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2003 18:05:55 -0400
Subject: BN1 Gearbox Ratios
> Are the 3spd gearbox ratios between the early BN1s and
> later BN1s the same? I know the gear sets have a
> slightly different bevel angle... but I was curious if
> the underlying ratios are the same? According to my
> manual dated July 1954, they are the same... but was
> wondering maybe models right before the BN2s might
> have something different?? Just curious...
>
> Thanks,
>
> Alan
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2003 15:44:32 -0700
Subject: Re: Smokey the regulator
Question.. would you like to know what poarizing does inside a
> generator ???
Yes.
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: <SJNNOCK@aol.com>
To: <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 27, 2003 2:21 PM
Subject: Re: Smokey the regulator
> Mick ... If your generator has been used to charge your car that is pos.
> ground and you turn your battery around giving a neg. ground OR you had your
> generator rebuilt by a shop thay would have tested it and it could come back
>to you
> neg. ground ... when you would start your car with opposing polarities the
> cut-out points inside your regulator would close and open rapidly (chatter)
> making sparks , suggest you check the cut- out points for burn marks..***
>REMOVE
> BATTERY TERMINAL FIRST **** check my Tech Talk book " how to polarize your
> generator " Question.. would you like to know what poarizing does inside a
> generator ??? Norman Nock
From "Dr. Francisco Tortoledo R" <torto at telcel.net.ve>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2003 18:46:49 -0400
Subject: Carburators
Suggestions?
Francisco.
From Douglas W Flagg <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2003 19:45:31 -0400
Subject: Re: F Y I Non Healey
I wouldn't worry if you offended anyone, they'll get over it. People
today sweat the small things in life too much. Good luck in selling the
bike.
Regards,
Doug
On Sat, 27 Sep 2003 10:49:57 -0700 "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net> writes:
> FYI, I am selling 1975 Kawasaki Z1B 900cc Motorcycle on E-Bay.
>
> If anyone is interested see E-Bay listing #2434663428.
>
> My apologies if I offended anyone.
>
> Kirk Kvam
> 62BT7
> 60BN7 (Nasty Boy 302 Ford)
>
________________________________________________________________
From "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine at hotmail.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2003 20:32:11 -0400
Subject: I Need Jim Latoff's Address
Sorry to send this to everyone, but I have not been able to get Jim Latoff
to respond to emails, and his name and address are not in any of the club
directories that I have. I would be most grateful if someone could send me
his mailing address. Thank you.
Reid
Reid Trummel
Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
http://www.healey.org
_________________________________________________________________
Get McAfee virus scanning and cleaning of incoming attachments. Get Hotmail
Extra Storage! http://join.msn.com/?PAGE=features/es
From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2003 21:06:00 EDT
Subject: Re: BN1 Gearbox Ratios
(There is an O.D. ratio changeover point at chassis # 140204/140205 according
to my March, 1954 Parts List and Clausager).
Thanks in advance.
Steve M.
In a message dated 9/27/2003 3:07:38 PM Pacific Standard Time,
richchrysler@quickclic.net writes:
> The Later BN1 ratios are the same as earlier. They only changed the angle
> of
> the gear teeth to supposedly make them stronger.
From "Dan Harris" <daharris at interlog.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 22:03:02 -0400
Subject: Re: BN4 Engine Weight
The garage addition is percolating along. The ridge beam is manufactured by
Trus Joist (Weyerhaeuser) and is rated for a rolling load of 800 lbs. I
still have to work out the rail attachment to the beam. Here north of the
BORDER (it sure has become a border) a great supplier is Princess Auto. They
sell a square box track that will carry a truck, but I am unclear on its
capacity. Alternatively, I could hang an I-beam off the bottom of the Trus
Joist Beam and run a truck off of that.
Just a report on progress.
I have not driven this car in 25 years and I am pretty excited by the whole
endeavour. In many respects, I am the PO.
Best regards,
Dan Harris
From "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2003 18:06:30 -0400
Subject: valve cover
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2433827392&category=4311
8#ebayphotohosting
allen miller
From "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2003 22:53:21 -0400
Subject: BN1/2 tire strap
Allen Miller Bn2/M
from under the dash. Were there any cars that were shipped without the
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2003 22:43:34 -0500
Subject: BN4 Washer
Assuming it was filled in filled in, they did a very good job.
Thanks
Patton
-------------------------------------
Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
Austin-Healey BN4 37718
For Sale - 1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2003 09:07:57 EDT
Subject: Re: BN4 Washer
The Longbridge BN4 used a dual jet windshield washer located in the middle of
the shroud. One washer jet with two nozzles. Look above the heater near the
center of windshield for the original hole.
Jim Werner
In a message dated 9/27/03 11:44:46 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
kpdii@earthlink.net writes:
All BN4's came with windshield washers, right? My car doesn't have the hole
in the cowl for one right now, & I can't find a evidence of filler, even
from under the dash. Were there any cars that were shipped without the
washer?
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
From bn1 at pacbell.net
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2003 07:06:04 -0700
Subject: Re: BN1/2 tire strap
> I have removed the original petrified leather strap for securing the spare
> tire and note that the buck is black, not chromed as are the repros. Is this
> correct, or did it get painted along the way. The paint finish is pretty
> smooth, so if someone painted it over, they did a pretty clean job. Any
> information on this?
>
Yes, it is correct. I have the original that came on my 2-owner car.
Bill Barnett
'53 BN1 #663 ('54 M-kit)
From "BJ8 Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2003 12:02:45 -0700
Subject: Austin-Healey Enterprises?
Anybody know anything about a place called Austin-Healey Enterprises in
Northridge, California? It may not exist anymore, but if anyone knows about
it, please contact me.
Thanks,
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2003 13:12:50 EDT
Subject: Height at rear end of MkII BT7
Thanks in advance.
I admit that I've suspicions regarding mine. The springs are not broken, but
I feel theyre not what they once were. God alone knows how old they are! I've
been grounding too often and too easily lately.
I had to mess around with/replace two of those wretched exhaust mountings
recently. (Are they more useless than ever? Or is it just me??) Anyhow, I cut
the
rubber off a couple of old ones and cleaned off the remnants with a wire
wheel. Although I didn't need them in the end, it struck me that they'd make
very
useful spacers to get the system a fraction further away from the chassis.
Just a thought.......
Simon.
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2003 13:31:47 -0400
Subject: Re: BN1/2 tire strap
----- Original Message -----
From: "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: "'Healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 27, 2003 10:53 PM
Subject: BN1/2 tire strap
> I have removed the original petrified leather strap for securing the spare
> tire and note that the buck is black, not chromed as are the repros. Is
this
> correct, or did it get painted along the way. The paint finish is pretty
> smooth, so if someone painted it over, they did a pretty clean job. Any
> information on this?
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2003 13:11:05 -0600
Subject: Re: Height at rear end of MkII BT7
From what I have read & measured the concensus seems to be 27 inches
measured from the bottom center of the fender wheel arches to the
ground. The exception is the late BJ8's which measure 28 inches. I think
that this can only be approximate because so many cars may have had
body, frame & suspension work over the years which could change the
dimensions.
My own BN2 measures 27 inches on all four corners with Michelin 175-15
tires. It did take quite a bit of messing around with the springs to get
all corners equal & then adjusting the bumpers parallel to the ground.
The bumpers are the most visual clue to whether the car looks straight.
Another factor when setting rear height is the amount of rear axle
rebound travel. I think that a minimum of 1 1/2 inches rebound is
necessary to prevent constant topping out on bumps & dips.
Your 165 tires are a little smaller than original & would make the car
slightly lower.
It would certainly be interesting to see what others have for actual
measurments.
Dave Russell
BN2
Simonlachlan@aol.com wrote:
> Hi,
> A concensus question whose answers may interest a number of us....
> I have a MkkII BT7. It's pretty standard and should sit per the norm, but
> what is that?
> I have 165/15s on standard wheels.
> Question 1:- what height should it be at the rear?. (Bodywork from the
> ground)
> Question 2, if you could be so kind:- what heights are yours?
> Let's set a standard point at which to measure...say the tips of the rear
> wing (fender), nearest the wheel.
>
> Thanks in advance.
From "Ron Yates" <dipstickdigest at mohaveaz.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2003 12:24:29 -0700
Subject: Re: BN2L233007 Steve McQueen connection
In my current Healey racing archives for California (1953-1962), there are no
entries for Steve McQueen driving a Healey 100. If you could relate the
color of the car and the racing number(s) before it's restoration, I may be
able to come up with something on it's racing history.
To my knowledge McQueen did his club racing in a formula car with Cal-Club
(Southern
California) and other SCCA venues plus Sebring driving the Sprites, but
not to my knowledge in a big Healey.
He may have owned the car, but to date I have not found a race entry for him
in a Healey. I'd like to be wrong.
Ron Yates
<Note to Alan,>
This message is being sent to several hundred Healey-interested people, and
if anyone can help trace the history of the car, they are likely receiving
this message. As you see, I have asked them to respond directly to you if
they can shed any light. Frankly, I'd estimate that the chances of turning
up anything are very, very remote, but it doesn't hurt to ask. Good luck.
Reid Trummel
Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
http://www.healey.org
-----------------------------
Dear Sir
I am the owner of Austin Healey 100/4, UK reg. no. XSV 217, chassis no
BN2L233007. Its last owner in the USA was Mr. Daniel Dallas Frank of 262
San Carlos Road, Prescott, Arizona AZ 86301, then registered AWX 193. I
believe Mr. Frank bought the car from "Classic Consignments Inc." in Arizona
on 8 Oct 1981.
The car was exported from England to the USA in 1956, then re-exported back
where it underwent a "ground up" restoration in 1990, retaining its US
L.H.D. configuration. There is some evidence the car may have been owned by
the actor, Steve McQueen; apparently Mr. Frank's son had seen the car stored
in an ex aircraft hangar at Fontana Airfield, near San Bernardino where I
believe McQueen stored his cars and bikes. I myself saw the car before
restoration and it had certainly had some sort of hard, competitive past,
then being painted mid blue with racing spots and numbers, etc.
Obviously, if it can be proven to be true that Steve McQueen had some
connection with this car, it would be a very important part of the car's
history and should, I am sure you will agree, be established. I would,
therefore, ask you your advice on how I could trace the cars ownership in
the USA, if in fact this is possible with a car of this age.
I hope this does not put you to too much trouble but any information or
suggestions you may have would be appreciated
Alan Burton
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2003 14:11:51 -0700
Subject: Re: Height at rear end of MkII BT7
Just measured my relatively unmolested, relatively low mileage BT7 tri-carb:
27 inches (+ or - 1/4") at all four corners, highest part of wheelarch on
wing to ground, on Michelin 175 x15" tires about half worn. (Didn't bother
checking the pressures).
The - 1/4 inch is most noticeable at the left rear, which is likely due to
the driver consuming way too much beer over the years. (either that, or the
other 'spare tire' being located in that corner of the car.)
The corresponding distance between the rear wing tip and the ground is 7 1/2
inches.
Couldn't measure the BJ8 - it's completely apart for restoration at this
time.
I've always tried to get the exhaust system tucked up absolutely as tight to
the body / chassis as is possible on any Healey that I've worked on in order
to to maximize the dismal ground clearance that the factory gave us - every
little bit helps!
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 28, 2003 12:11 PM
Subject: Re: Height at rear end of MkII BT7
Simon,
From what I have read & measured the concensus seems to be 27 inches
measured from the bottom center of the fender wheel arches to the
ground. The exception is the late BJ8's which measure 28 inches. I think
that this can only be approximate because so many cars may have had
body, frame & suspension work over the years which could change the
dimensions.
My own BN2 measures 27 inches on all four corners with Michelin 175-15
tires. It did take quite a bit of messing around with the springs to get
all corners equal & then adjusting the bumpers parallel to the ground.
The bumpers are the most visual clue to whether the car looks straight.
Another factor when setting rear height is the amount of rear axle
rebound travel. I think that a minimum of 1 1/2 inches rebound is
necessary to prevent constant topping out on bumps & dips.
Your 165 tires are a little smaller than original & would make the car
slightly lower.
It would certainly be interesting to see what others have for actual
measurments.
Dave Russell
BN2
Simonlachlan@aol.com wrote:
> Hi,
> A concensus question whose answers may interest a number of us....
> I have a MkkII BT7. It's pretty standard and should sit per the norm, but
> what is that?
> I have 165/15s on standard wheels.
> Question 1:- what height should it be at the rear?. (Bodywork from the
> ground)
> Question 2, if you could be so kind:- what heights are yours?
> Let's set a standard point at which to measure...say the tips of the rear
> wing (fender), nearest the wheel.
>
> Thanks in advance.
!
From javrugtman <javrugtman at htcnet.org>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2003 19:21:34 -0400
Subject: Re: Lister Pennell
John
M Lempert wrote:
>Has anyone heard from Keith Pennell ? I haven't seen anything posted from
>him since the hurricane went through.
From Stella67 at aol.com
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2003 20:43:46 EDT
Subject: Re: tricarb 2 seater / Production History
Car # 13048
Body # 3059 BN7
Engine # 29E-RU-H315
Made May 9/10, 1961
sold with a white hardtop (anyone know where I can find one for a BN7?)
The car has the MKII badge, (in need of restoration) and it was changed from
black to white sometime after it was hit on the right front and had some very
poor work done on it. I believe, based on some records I found in the car,
this may have happened in 1968. At the same time the red interior was painted
black but the red carpet was left red. It is in very poor shape because of the
many restoration efforts including some unique sills and rubbery bondo that
still smells after the paint is removed.
The car is undergoing a complete rebuild including installing a new chassis
made for me by some friends in Holland. The chassis is absolutely correct
except is made of heavier grade steel. The car will be returned to black with
red
interior (I like the white but my daughters have convinced me it should be
original). Other then typical rust the fenders, doors, bonnet and boot lid are
in reasonable condition (not including the poorly patched right front fender).
Can't wait to get her back on the road.
Have fun!
John
From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2003 21:41:21 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Height at rear end of MkII BT7
Left Side Right Side
P.S.I. Arch F Arch C Arch R P.S.I. Arch F Arch C Arch R
Front 27 lb 9.75 26.75 8.50 28 lb 9.25 26.25 8.25
Rear 26 lb 6.25 25.75 7.25 27 lb 5.75 25.50 7.00
Tomorrow, I'm going to correct the pressures and remeasure the wheel arches.
If there is any
difference, I'll let you know.
--Scott Morris
--- Simonlachlan@aol.com wrote: << Hi, A concensus question whose answers may
interest a number
of us.... I have a MkkII BT7. It's pretty standard and should sit per the norm,
but what is that?
I have 165/15s on standard wheels.
Question 1:- what height should it be at the rear?. (Bodywork from the ground)
Question 2, if you could be so kind:- what heights are yours?
Let's set a standard point at which to measure...say the tips of the rear wing
(fender), nearest
the wheel. ... ... >>
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2003 18:49:51 -0700
Subject: Re: Height at rear end of MkII BT7
" Hi, A concensus question whose answers may interest a number of us.... I
have a MkkII BT7. It's pretty standard and should sit per the norm, but what
is that? I have 165/15s on standard wheels.
Question 1:- what height should it be at the rear?. (Bodywork from the
ground)"
I have 2 BT7 cars. Here is the data:
- 1962 BT7 MK2 (bought this car in pieces, but it was a low mileage car
that the PO took apart and got overwhelmed, and did not want to restore it).
As far as I know, the rear springs are original.
Ground to the lowest tip of the rear fender to ground, just behind the rear
tires = 7 1/2" (this is an average of the slight differences, L to R) This
car has 185/70-15 tires on reproduction MiniLite wheels, and the distance
from the ground to the center of the wheels is 12".
1960 BN7 MK1 (an original, unrestored car w/ rear springs that have never
been messed with)
Ground to tip = 7 3/8" (avg) this car has 165-15 tires on 60 spoke wheels,
and the distance from the ground to the center of the Knock Off is 11 7/8"
Hope this helps.
John Snyder.
From "Jason Gray" <jcagray at hotmail.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2003 18:51:41 -0700
Subject: Side Curtains - Restore, Buy NOS or Reproductions?
I have original side curtain frames, missing 1 horizontal piece on one side,
and the associated seals, rubber etc. They are very rough.
Should I try to restore these frames and what sources exist?
Buy reproductions? How good is the quality?
Buy NOS or restored?
Any experience/advice appreciated.
thanks
Jason Gray
57 BN4
Vancouver BC
_________________________________________________________________
Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*.
From "Gary R. Brierton" <gbrierton at hotmail.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2003 23:28:45 -0400
Subject: rear-end height
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2003 22:28:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Healey BN7 on ebay
Couldn't help myself - had to report him to ebay.
We will have to let the ebay gods sort this one out.
Dean :)
__________________________________
The New Yahoo! Shopping - with improved product search
From GSFuqua1 at aol.com
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 04:02:21 EDT
Subject: Re: Austin-Healey Enterprises?
Gary Fuqua
Branson, Missouri
BN2 & BJ8
From "BJ8 Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 07:06:09 -0700
Subject: Austin-Healey Enterprises
Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 07:15:08 -0500
Subject: King Pin / Follow up
My question for the list at this time is , Should new "kingpin/swivel
axle" assemblies turn freely by hand from lock to lock? One of my rebuilts
will turn smoothly from lock to midpoint but it holds up turning it the
other way, requireing a lot more force to get it to reach its final travel.
The other kingpin moves from lock to lock with no binding at all. Should
this free up over time once its on the car? Should I dissasemble it to see
what may be holding it up or maybe even back off on the top trunnion nut a
skoshe.
Thanks, Mark
Mark,
58-MGA
60-MGA
76-MGB
74.5-MGBGT
60-BT7
From "Jmaes Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 08:15:17 -0400
Subject: Re: Healey BN7 on ebay
From "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 08:32:36 -0400
Subject: Re: Height at rear end of MkII BT7
A. REAR SPRINGS. On a cement floor, which is flat and presumably close to
level, suring the 'laden cambers' specified for the rear leaf springs should
be a good place to start. In the Bn1/Bn2 manual I have on hand, the
tolerance allowed is +/- 1/8", and I would suspect the other models are give
similar lattitude. This is easily checked with a tape measure butting the
floor, and measuring heights of the forward and rear shackles and the
mid-point. The idea is not to determine each spring's absolute camber, but
to compare left and right.
B. FRONT SPRINGS. Measure the heights at which the grease nipples on the
lower wishbone arms sit off the floor.
C. FRAME. Get comparative left and right measurements, front and rear, of
how high the ends of the cross arms and outriggers sit off the floor.
D. RESOLUTION. After verifying your car is way out of whack, forget A
through C above, and drive on.
Allen '56 M
From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 08:40:08 -0400
Subject: Insurance Question
I just ran a quote for my daily drivers and received quite a good rate
quote. But---B4 buying, i wanted to see if anyone had any personal
knowledge with them.
Regards
Tom
From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 08:49:42 -0400
Subject: Re: Side Curtains - Restore, Buy NOS or Reproductions?
Jason,
restoring the sidecurtains is a job any owner with average
skills and tools can do: You'll need a file, 2-3 grades wet-dry
sandpaper, an acrylic cutter and solvent glue dispenser with a needle
tip. Acrylic sheet and some black felt. You can order rubber seals
from most Healey suppliers.
The sidescreen frames and hardware are available used, if yours are
too far gone. Make sure you have the correct ones for you car. Be
aware that you can do a lot with a file and sandpaper. You'd be
surprised how well they clean up.
Once you get them smooth with 300 wet paper look up an anodizing shop
in your area that does Bright Dip. (Queen City Plating in TO: 416.
534-3501 ask for Karl) It's a process that is similar to anodizing,
that's what they used originally. The front pane is static, so you'll
need to carefully open the channel with a screwdriver. The plastic
windows can be made up of same thickness acrylic or polycarbonate
sheet. the little handles were glued with a solvent glue (you can
pattern from the originals) A doubled-over black felt strip was laid
in the channels, so you can get that from a specialised store. The
mounting harware was zinc plated, so sandblasting and plating will
fix that. The fasteners can be store bought stainless with chrome
dome nuts.
Don't forget the 2 rubber pads on each side to protect from rattling.
NOS sidecurtains are very rare ( I found some on eBay some time ago,
so it's not impossible) and repros are an unknown to me. Maybe other
listers can help with that. Price of all this? Probably the same as
buying , but more satisfying and original to the car.
Good luck,
--
Alain Giguere
BN7 Bits
From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 09:07:55 -0400
Subject: RE: King Pin / Follow up
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Mark and kathy LaPierre
Sent: 29-Sep-03 8:15 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: King Pin / Follow up
Good morning listers,
I have returned to partake in more of this unsurpassed info. from
the
Healey Gods of the world.
While off the list I was still receiving some virus notices as a lot
of
you mentioned I would. Thanks for the input and I feel that I am
better
protected than before.
My question for the list at this time is , Should new
"kingpin/swivel
axle" assemblies turn freely by hand from lock to lock? One of my
rebuilts
will turn smoothly from lock to midpoint but it holds up turning it the
other way, requireing a lot more force to get it to reach its final
travel.
The other kingpin moves from lock to lock with no binding at all. Should
this free up over time once its on the car? Should I dissasemble it to
see
what may be holding it up or maybe even back off on the top trunnion nut
a
skoshe.
Thanks, Mark
Mark,
58-MGA
60-MGA
76-MGB
74.5-MGBGT
60-BT7
From "Jmaes Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 09:20:36 -0400
Subject: Re: Insurance Question
From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 09:42:02 -0400
Subject: 5 Speed conversion clutch brg
I was wondering if any listers have looked into this type of bearing for
use on the Toyota 5 speed.
Thanks,
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
From "Vink, Graham" <vinkg at fleishman.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 08:44:42 -0500
Subject: RE: Healey BN7 on ebay - TURN THEM IN!
The seller of this listing, an Austin Healey car, is using shill bidding
in an attempt to convince unsuspecting potential bidders that real bids
actually have been made on this vehicle.
In addition, the seller recently lowered the reserve price to $1 above
the current high bid, clearly indicating an attempt to obtain ONE
legitimate bid. And, of course, the use of a "private" auction (which
E-Bay should discontinue since it enables this kind of fraud) is another
clue.
And nobody should ever have to apologize for reporting fraud!
-Graham
PS: I have a car (not a Healey) for sale on Auto Trader, and somebody is
trying to work a well-known scam on me involving a mythical buyer in
Africa and a bogus certified check for larger than the actual amount.
I'm supposed to refund the difference ... Before I find out that the
check is a forgery. I'm currently working with the U.S. Postal
Inspector's office on that one.
From "R.J. Denton" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 10:14:31 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey BN7 on ebay - TURN THEM IN!
Believe me, your letter went in the circular file. You made an accusation that
you couldn't/didn't substantiate. You should have said the you suspected it was
shilled and the mechanics of how you ascertained the new reserve amount. The
line about not apologizing was definately not needed. They know that. Then the
added information telling them that you are using another site and not eBay
didn't help either.
But keep trying. Your heart is in the right place. You probably shouldn't buy
that car if you feel this way about the auction
Bob Denton
"Vink, Graham" wrote:
> I have sent the following message to E-Bay:
>
> The seller of this listing, an Austin Healey car, is using shill bidding
> in an attempt to convince unsuspecting potential bidders that real bids
> actually have been made on this vehicle.
>
> In addition, the seller recently lowered the reserve price to $1 above
> the current high bid, clearly indicating an attempt to obtain ONE
> legitimate bid. And, of course, the use of a "private" auction (which
> E-Bay should discontinue since it enables this kind of fraud) is another
> clue.
>
> And nobody should ever have to apologize for reporting fraud!
>
> -Graham
>
> PS: I have a car (not a Healey) for sale on Auto Trader, and somebody is
> trying to work a well-known scam on me involving a mythical buyer in
> Africa and a bogus certified check for larger than the actual amount.
> I'm supposed to refund the difference ... Before I find out that the
> check is a forgery. I'm currently working with the U.S. Postal
> Inspector's office on that one.
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 09:01:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: question about A90 Atlantic rear end (i.e. BN1 compatible
Thanks for your thoughts on this. This rear end came
out of a 1949 A90 Atlantic Convertible... the A90
saloons (westminsters) we significantly different
cars.
It appears that the rear end is original, and my only
thought is I know a few A90s were fitted with
Automatic tranmissions... this rear end may have been
used with the Automatics I suppose? Or maybe the
early 1949 year they put on the 33:8 rear end. Who
knows...
Dissapointing considering I bought engine tranny &
diff mostly to get the rear end pinion & gear... only
to find it is the same as what I already have on the
BN1. Oh well, ces't la vie.
Cheers,
Alan
--- John Harper <100reg@jharper.demon.co.uk> wrote:
>
> Alan
>
> As a good general guide it was only the Convertible
> A90 Atlantic that
> fitted the 3.667:1 rear axle. This was designated
> the BD2 and was built
> between February 1949 and August 1952.
>
> The Hardtop type BE2 was built from January 1952 to
> September 1952 and
> had the 4.125:1 ratio.
>
> I don't have production quantity figures to hand but
> I seem to recall
> that although it was built over a longer period the
> Convertible was more
> rare.
>
> One other point worth mentioning if you are looking
> for a 3.667:1 unit
> to fit in an early BN1 100, you might find that an
> A90 Atlantic may have
> a steel casting rather than the aluminium as used on
> the 100. It will
> still fit but you will be adding to the unsprung
> weight. There were also
> other minor changes but this does not prevent the
> whole 'pumpkin' being
> used.
>
> All the best
>
> >
> >I just inspected (for the first time today) the
> rear
> >end from an A90 Atlantic that I bought. It has a
> >4.125:1 (i.e. 33:8) diff in it. I thought all of
> the
> >A90s had a 3.66:1 (33:9) diff in it. Very
> >dissapointed finding this as I was hoping to get a
> >3.66 rear end. Does anyone know which A90s had the
> >3.66 rear end, and which had 4.125s? I'd like to
> keep
> >my eye out for one, that's all. I assume the
> Aussie
> >listers must know all about this....
> >
> >Thanks,
> >
> >Alan
> >
>
> --
> John Harper
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 09:30:25 -0700
Subject: Re: 5 Speed conversion clutch brg
I've used the Smitty for 2 years and am interested in this t/o bearing, as I
think the stock Toyota bearing may be a little too deep, and may be touching
the clutch plate levers and spinning all the time. I've also experimented
with shimming up the ball stud with washers.
Also I think the stock Toyota clutch disk called for in the manual is too
thin--mine started slipping after a few months of normal non-hotrod driving.
Smitty now has his own discs made, which are a little thicker, and this
setup has been working on the street for the last year and a half.
Everything seems to be OK now, except the engagement point feels too far out
from the floor--I suppose that means there isn't that much disc thickness to
work with.
Does any of this jibe with your experience?
Look forward to hearing of your experiences.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
From "Tracy Drummond" <bighealey at charter.net>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 12:32:37 -0400
Subject: Re: Healey BN7 on ebay - TURN THEM IN!
I have seen stranger things. Us doubting Thomas's may
find mud in our faces if this turns out legit, even if we
are jealous about the price. I still wish I could get 50K
for my Healey.
On Mon, 29 Sep 2003 10:14:31 -0500
"R.J. Denton" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net> wrote:
>Graham,
>
>Believe me, your letter went in the circular file. You
>made an accusation that
>you couldn't/didn't substantiate. You should have said
>the you suspected it was
>shilled and the mechanics of how you ascertained the new
>reserve amount. The
>line about not apologizing was definately not needed.
>They know that. Then the
>added information telling them that you are using another
>site and not eBay
>didn't help either.
>
>But keep trying. Your heart is in the right place. You
>probably shouldn't buy
>that car if you feel this way about the auction
>
>Bob Denton
>
>"Vink, Graham" wrote:
>
>> I have sent the following message to E-Bay:
>>
>> The seller of this listing, an Austin Healey car, is
>>using shill bidding
>> in an attempt to convince unsuspecting potential bidders
>>that real bids
>> actually have been made on this vehicle.
>>
>> In addition, the seller recently lowered the reserve
>>price to $1 above
>> the current high bid, clearly indicating an attempt to
>>obtain ONE
>> legitimate bid. And, of course, the use of a "private"
>>auction (which
>> E-Bay should discontinue since it enables this kind of
>>fraud) is another
>> clue.
>>
>> And nobody should ever have to apologize for reporting
>>fraud!
>>
>> -Graham
>>
>> PS: I have a car (not a Healey) for sale on Auto Trader,
>>and somebody is
>> trying to work a well-known scam on me involving a
>>mythical buyer in
>> Africa and a bogus certified check for larger than the
>>actual amount.
>> I'm supposed to refund the difference ... Before I find
>>out that the
>> check is a forgery. I'm currently working with the U.S.
>>Postal
>> Inspector's office on that one.
From "Tracy Drummond" <bighealey at charter.net>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 12:40:23 -0400
Subject: Re: Healey BN7 on ebay - TURN THEM IN!
Humm...
On Mon, 29 Sep 2003 12:32:37 -0400
"Tracy Drummond" <bighealey@charter.net> wrote:
>Interesting thread. I did some looking over the seller's
>history and found that this seller buys alot, which led
>me to believe that perhaps the seller was buying lots of
>cheap items to inflate the rating. A well know way to
>prime for selling a few large items later than changing
>IDs. But what I found was many high dollar collectors
>items. Signed guitars, signed photos, limited edition
>prints many in excess of the 500$ mark. A few ratings
>were items sold but mostly purchases so he/she actually
>looks like a active buyer/collector. This seller has over
>1000 positive feedbacks from over 500 unique users. So
>based upon this I would buy or sell from this user.
> Maybe this was a case of paying too much for this item
>and trying to recoop losses to pay for the collector
>habit.
>
>I have seen stranger things. Us doubting Thomas's may
>find mud in our faces if this turns out legit, even if we
>are jealous about the price. I still wish I could get
>50K for my Healey.
>
>On Mon, 29 Sep 2003 10:14:31 -0500
> "R.J. Denton" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net> wrote:
>>Graham,
>>
>>Believe me, your letter went in the circular file. You
>>made an accusation that
>>you couldn't/didn't substantiate. You should have said
>>the you suspected it was
>>shilled and the mechanics of how you ascertained the new
>>reserve amount. The
>>line about not apologizing was definately not needed.
>>They know that. Then the
>>added information telling them that you are using another
>>site and not eBay
>>didn't help either.
>>
>>But keep trying. Your heart is in the right place. You
>>probably shouldn't buy
>>that car if you feel this way about the auction
>>
>>Bob Denton
>>
>>"Vink, Graham" wrote:
>>
>>>I have sent the following message to E-Bay:
>>>
>>>The seller of this listing, an Austin Healey car, is
>>>using shill bidding
>>>in an attempt to convince unsuspecting potential bidders
>>>that real bids
>>>actually have been made on this vehicle.
>>>
>>>In addition, the seller recently lowered the reserve
>>>price to $1 above
>>>the current high bid, clearly indicating an attempt to
>>>obtain ONE
>>>legitimate bid. And, of course, the use of a "private"
>>>auction (which
>>>E-Bay should discontinue since it enables this kind of
>>>fraud) is another
>>>clue.
>>>
>>>And nobody should ever have to apologize for reporting
>>>fraud!
>>>
>>>-Graham
>>>
>>>PS: I have a car (not a Healey) for sale on Auto Trader,
>>>and somebody is
>>>trying to work a well-known scam on me involving a
>>>mythical buyer in
>>>Africa and a bogus certified check for larger than the
>>>actual amount.
>>>I'm supposed to refund the difference ... Before I find
>>>out that the
>>>check is a forgery. I'm currently working with the U.S.
>>>Postal
>>>Inspector's office on that one.
From "Vink, Graham" <vinkg at fleishman.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 11:49:56 -0500
Subject: RE: Healey BN7 on ebay - TURN THEM IN!
In this case, the goal of using shill bidders is not so much to drive up
the price but to make it appear - through the participation of seemingly
legitimate bidders - that the car is worth the price that is being asked
- ie approximately $55,000.
Tracy suggests "maybe this was a case of paying too much for this item
and
trying to recoop losses to pay for the collector habit." Quite possibly
- but I don't think the motivation matters. If I'm low on cash, does
that give me the right to attempt to swindle a bank?
Anyway, I'll send the guy an e-mail and share his response -- if any --
with the group.
Graham
-----Original Message-----
From: Tracy Drummond [mailto:bighealey@charter.net]
Sent: Monday, September 29, 2003 12:33 PM
To: R.J. Denton; Vink, Graham
Cc: healey (E-mail)
Subject: Re: Healey BN7 on ebay - TURN THEM IN!
Interesting thread. I did some looking over the seller's
history and found that this seller buys alot, which led me
to believe that perhaps the seller was buying lots of
cheap items to inflate the rating. A well know way to
prime for selling a few large items later than changing
IDs. But what I found was many high dollar collectors
items. Signed guitars, signed photos, limited edition
prints many in excess of the 500$ mark. A few ratings
were items sold but mostly purchases so he/she actually
looks like a active buyer/collector. This seller has over
1000 positive feedbacks from over 500 unique users. So
based upon this I would buy or sell from this user. Maybe
this was a case of paying too much for this item and
trying to recoop losses to pay for the collector habit.
I have seen stranger things. Us doubting Thomas's may
find mud in our faces if this turns out legit, even if we
are jealous about the price. I still wish I could get 50K
for my Healey.
On Mon, 29 Sep 2003 10:14:31 -0500
"R.J. Denton" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net> wrote:
>Graham,
>
>Believe me, your letter went in the circular file. You
>made an accusation that
>you couldn't/didn't substantiate. You should have said
>the you suspected it was
>shilled and the mechanics of how you ascertained the new
>reserve amount. The
>line about not apologizing was definately not needed.
>They know that. Then the
>added information telling them that you are using another
>site and not eBay
>didn't help either.
>
>But keep trying. Your heart is in the right place. You
>probably shouldn't buy
>that car if you feel this way about the auction
>
>Bob Denton
>
>"Vink, Graham" wrote:
>
>> I have sent the following message to E-Bay:
>>
>> The seller of this listing, an Austin Healey car, is
>>using shill bidding
>> in an attempt to convince unsuspecting potential bidders
>>that real bids
>> actually have been made on this vehicle.
>>
>> In addition, the seller recently lowered the reserve
>>price to $1 above
>> the current high bid, clearly indicating an attempt to
>>obtain ONE
>> legitimate bid. And, of course, the use of a "private"
>>auction (which
>> E-Bay should discontinue since it enables this kind of
>>fraud) is another
>> clue.
>>
>> And nobody should ever have to apologize for reporting
>>fraud!
>>
>> -Graham
>>
>> PS: I have a car (not a Healey) for sale on Auto Trader,
>>and somebody is
>> trying to work a well-known scam on me involving a
>>mythical buyer in
>> Africa and a bogus certified check for larger than the
>>actual amount.
>> I'm supposed to refund the difference ... Before I find
>>out that the
>> check is a forgery. I'm currently working with the U.S.
>>Postal
>> Inspector's office on that one.
From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 12:03:10 -0500
Subject: Seat Belts
I got a couple of suggestions a few months ago when I started looking for a
car, but now that it's here, I'm ready to figure out the installation and
pictures really help me.
Thanks
Patton
-------------------------------------
Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
Austin-Healey BN4
For Sale - 1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert
From "Esko & Megan Cate" <enmcate at comcast.net>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 10:18:42 -0700
Subject: Smell of burning oil
The oil pressure shown on the gage is high based on what I have read
here, 50 is normal and have seen it go to 100 when still "cool" and
touching about 4000 rpm. These gauges are old and have not been
recalibrated yet, so I have not had a lot of faith in the readings (that
is a winter task to pull them out and send them off to be recalibrated,
particularly the water temperature readings). Is there a problem with
the high oil pressure? Is there a leak location on the left side of the
engine that would spray a small amount of oil on the headers? The car
is not losing lots of oil as I have not had to add any oil during this
break-in period.
Thanks
Esko
BJ7
From "Greg Wilkinson" <gregwilkinson at adelphia.net>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 10:24:04 -0700
Subject: RE: Healey BN7 on ebay - TURN THEM IN! Item number: 2433723403
Best,
Greg
67 BJ8
From m.brouillette at comcast.net
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 17:39:50 +0000
Subject: Speaking of Ebay seller honesty questions...
Mike Brouillette
Bedford, NH USA
From John Harper <AH at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 18:04:20 +0100
Subject: Re: BN2L233007: Steve McQueen Connection?
The information I have access to only relates to the British owner. He
did not own the car back in the 1950s or 1960s. He also said that there
was a tale about this car having something to do with Steve McQueen but
with no evidence or even a good convincing reference. Until something
more firm comes to light we will have to consider this just speculation.
All the best
>I have 2090 entries in my AH racing database for big Healey's. Mostly
>California 50's and 60's. I have no records of McQueen as a driver or
>entrant. There was also a rumor that he owned a 100S which I have not
>verified either. If I can have a driver name or racing number, I can then
>check the drivers and color.
>Ken Freese
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: John Harper [mailto:AH@jharper.demon.co.uk]
>Sent: Friday, September 26, 2003 12:08 AM
>To: Reid Trummel
>Cc: healeys@autox.team.net; burtons@carltonlake.fsworld.co.uk
>Subject: Re: BN2L233007: Steve McQueen Connection?
>
>
>Alan and Reid
>
>We have information about this 100 recorded in the UK 100 register dated
>May 1992. Obviously I cannot make this public but if Alan would like to
>contact me off line I will see what we can do.
>
>You may be interested to know that if you had looked up our WEB site you
>would have found that we knew something about this car.
>
>All the best
>
>John Harper
>AHC UK 100 Register
>
>
>>
>>Recently received the below message (below my signature). Please
>>respond directly to Alan Burton if you can help. Thanks.
>>
>>Note to Alan,
>>
>>This message is being sent to several hundred Healey-interested people,
>>and if anyone can help trace the history of the car, they are likely
>>receiving this message. As you see, I have asked them to respond
>>directly to you if they can shed any light. Frankly, I'd estimate that
>>the chances of turning up anything are very, very remote, but it
>>doesn't hurt to ask. Good luck.
>>
>>Reid Trummel
>>Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
>>http://www.healey.org
>>-----------------------------
>>
>>Dear Sir
>>
>>I am the owner of Austin Healey 100/4, UK reg. no. XSV 217, chassis no
>>BN2L233007. Its last owner in the USA was Mr. Daniel Dallas Frank of
>>262 San Carlos Road, Prescott, Arizona AZ 86301, then registered AWX
>>193. I believe Mr. Frank bought the car from "Classic Consignments
>>Inc." in Arizona on 8 Oct 1981.
>>
>>The car was exported from England to the USA in 1956, then re-exported
>>back where it underwent a "ground up" restoration in 1990, retaining
>>its US L.H.D. configuration. There is some evidence the car may have
>>been owned by the actor, Steve McQueen; apparently Mr. Frank's son had
>>seen the car stored in an ex aircraft hangar at Fontana Airfield, near
>>San Bernardino where I believe McQueen stored his cars and bikes. I
>>myself saw the car before restoration and it had certainly had some
>>sort of hard, competitive past, then being painted mid blue with racing
>>spots and numbers, etc.
>>
>>Obviously, if it can be proven to be true that Steve McQueen had some
>>connection with this car, it would be a very important part of the
>>car's history and should, I am sure you will agree, be established. I
>>would, therefore, ask you your advice on how I could trace the cars
>>ownership in the USA, if in fact this is possible with a car of this age.
>>
>>I hope this does not put you to too much trouble but any information or
>>suggestions you may have would be appreciated
>>
>>Alan Burton
>
--
John Harper
From m.brouillette at comcast.net
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 17:51:04 +0000
Subject: RE: Healey BN7 on ebay - TURN THEM IN!
I could also give the guy the benefit of doubt about him dropping his
reserve. His wife might be beating him on the back, saying "how much is
enough, get rid of one of your toys"...
Mike Brouillette
59 BT7
Bedford, NH
From "Vink, Graham" <vinkg at fleishman.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 12:54:52 -0500
Subject: RE: Healey BN7 on ebay - TURN THEM IN -- the seller responds
--Why is this a private auction?
--Why did you lower the reserve to only $1 more than the current high bid?
--Are you using shill bidders in an effort to make it appear there is
legitimate bidding for the car at the current price?
--The only reason for not selling the car at the current price -- only $1
less than your "reserve" -- is because you'd get stuck with E-Bay's fee,
which obviously you don't want to pay unless you get a "real" bidder instead
of a "shill." Is that correct?
--This auction is being widely discussed in the Healey community, and at
least two persons have shared their concerns with E-Bay. Do you have any
messages you'd care to pass along to those audiences?
Thanks.
His reply:
The car was purchased for my daughter as a gift that she does not want to
drive. I am using a private auction so as not to have my bidders contacted
by every Healey enthusiast who has a car to sell.
I lowered the reserve to sell the car. It really does not matter where the
reserve is as I believe the car will reach its true value.
There are no games being played. The car is as described. Restored by Tom
Rock and purchased by me. If car does not sell,it will stay in my garage
next to my other cars.
Hope this helps
Mitch Menaker CEO
Starabilias LLC
Walt Disney World
Disneyland
Trump Taj Mahal
From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 14:18:27 -0400
Subject: "Tail of the Dragon" - slight Healey content
Route 129 or 139 in the western part of the state? Used for sightseeing
and a great run for sports cars?
Info off-list is fine. Thanks,
CB
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 11:22:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Fwd: Re: Healey BN7 on ebay - TURN THEM IN!
I looked at his background as well and concluded
that after 5 years he knows all the tricks...
Dean BN7
>
>
> --- Tracy Drummond <bighealey@charter.net> wrote:
> > One other piece of info. The seller has been a
> > member of
> > eBay in good standing since Wednesday, Sep 02,
> 1998.
> >
> > Humm...
> >
> >
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> The New Yahoo! Shopping - with improved product
> search
> http://shopping.yahoo.com
>
__________________________________
The New Yahoo! Shopping - with improved product search
From "Greg Wilkinson" <gregwilkinson at adelphia.net>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 11:30:32 -0700
Subject: Healey Sighting
Best,
Greg
67 BJ8
From "R.J. Denton" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 14:35:29 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey BN7 on ebay - TURN THEM IN -- the seller responds
Bob
"Vink, Graham" wrote:
> Hello list,
>
> This will probably be my last general posting on this topic, since I realize
> it's drifting rather far afield from Healeys. Please e-mail me privately for
> any further discussion, and if anyone has been annoyed by my posts, I
> apologize.
>
> Anyway, following is the query that I sent to the BN7 seller on E-Bay and
> his (prompt) reply. He appears to own some memorabilia stores and also does
> some memorabilia auctions:
>
> My questions:
>
> --Why is this a private auction?
>
> --Why did you lower the reserve to only $1 more than the current high bid?
>
> --Are you using shill bidders in an effort to make it appear there is
> legitimate bidding for the car at the current price?
>
> --The only reason for not selling the car at the current price -- only $1
> less than your "reserve" -- is because you'd get stuck with E-Bay's fee,
> which obviously you don't want to pay unless you get a "real" bidder instead
> of a "shill." Is that correct?
>
> --This auction is being widely discussed in the Healey community, and at
> least two persons have shared their concerns with E-Bay. Do you have any
> messages you'd care to pass along to those audiences?
>
> Thanks.
>
> His reply:
>
> The car was purchased for my daughter as a gift that she does not want to
> drive. I am using a private auction so as not to have my bidders contacted
> by every Healey enthusiast who has a car to sell.
>
> I lowered the reserve to sell the car. It really does not matter where the
> reserve is as I believe the car will reach its true value.
>
> There are no games being played. The car is as described. Restored by Tom
> Rock and purchased by me. If car does not sell,it will stay in my garage
> next to my other cars.
>
> Hope this helps
>
>
>
> Mitch Menaker CEO
>
> Starabilias LLC
>
> Walt Disney World
>
> Disneyland
>
> Trump Taj Mahal
From "Vink, Graham" <vinkg at fleishman.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 13:51:44 -0500
Subject: RE: Healey BN7 on ebay - TURN THEM IN -- the seller responds
And the dead give-away is the fact that he lowered the reserve to only
$1 above the current bid. The ONLY reason he would do that is because he
is trying to get a real bid, not a shill bid.
(If this auction was legitimate, he would have lowered the reserve to
the existing bid - since $52,000 is almost as good as $52,001. But he
doesn't want to do that, because if the shill bid remains the high bid
when the auction ends, he will owe E-Bay the auction fee. Obviously, he
doesn't want to pay that unless he has a real sale.)
Also, re his explanation that he bought the car for his daughter -- who
doesn't want it. How many people would really buy a $50,000 collector
car - let alone one that is four decades old - for anybody without
finding out first if she wanted a car like that?
Update: I just checked the auction again and noticed that somebody -
probably one of his shills - has bid, and the reserve has now been met.
I'm sure it's utter coincidence that the bid came 45 minutes after my
skeptical inquiry. Since the seller is now on the hook for the auction
fee, I wouldn't be surprised if he ends the auction prematurely and
claims the car has been sold.
-Graham
-----Original Message-----
From: R.J. Denton [mailto:foxriverkid@earthlink.net]
Sent: Monday, September 29, 2003 3:35 PM
To: Vink, Graham
Cc: healey (E-mail)
Subject: Re: Healey BN7 on ebay - TURN THEM IN -- the seller responds
If I were in your shoes, I'd be a bit red faced over this. In
retrospect, you shouldn't have contacted ebay until you did this recent
bit of homework. Then you wouldn't have contacted them.
Bob
"Vink, Graham" wrote:
> Hello list,
>
> This will probably be my last general posting on this topic, since I
> realize it's drifting rather far afield from Healeys. Please e-mail me
> privately for any further discussion, and if anyone has been annoyed
> by my posts, I apologize.
>
> Anyway, following is the query that I sent to the BN7 seller on E-Bay
> and his (prompt) reply. He appears to own some memorabilia stores and
> also does some memorabilia auctions:
>
> My questions:
>
> --Why is this a private auction?
>
> --Why did you lower the reserve to only $1 more than the current high
> bid?
>
> --Are you using shill bidders in an effort to make it appear there is
> legitimate bidding for the car at the current price?
>
> --The only reason for not selling the car at the current price -- only
> $1 less than your "reserve" -- is because you'd get stuck with E-Bay's
> fee, which obviously you don't want to pay unless you get a "real"
> bidder instead of a "shill." Is that correct?
>
> --This auction is being widely discussed in the Healey community, and
> at least two persons have shared their concerns with E-Bay. Do you
> have any messages you'd care to pass along to those audiences?
>
> Thanks.
>
> His reply:
>
> The car was purchased for my daughter as a gift that she does not want
> to drive. I am using a private auction so as not to have my bidders
> contacted by every Healey enthusiast who has a car to sell.
>
> I lowered the reserve to sell the car. It really does not matter where
> the reserve is as I believe the car will reach its true value.
>
> There are no games being played. The car is as described. Restored by
> Tom Rock and purchased by me. If car does not sell,it will stay in my
> garage next to my other cars.
>
> Hope this helps
>
>
>
> Mitch Menaker CEO
>
> Starabilias LLC
>
> Walt Disney World
>
> Disneyland
>
> Trump Taj Mahal
From "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyingb at surewest.net>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 12:00:44 -0700
Subject: Hardtop supplier seen at Beaulieu
Nical Engineering Limited
44 (0) 01590 612 181
email them at nick@nicalengineering.co.uk
They also offer a "works type "ventilator. I did not see one there at the
swap site. I have an advertisement sheet if anyone needs it.
Had a good time looking at all the stalls. There were so many that after 4
hours, I was burnt out. I never saw all of them. Very few stalls with any
Healey parts. Most looked like someone was cleaning out their garage.
Beautiful part of England.
Jerry
BN4
From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 15:01:12 -0400
Subject: Re: "Tail of the Dragon" - slight Healey content
Route 129. Check:
http://www.tailofthedragon.com
--
John Miller
My email address: Domain, n4vu.com; username, jsm
The one sure way to make a lazy man look respectable is to put a fishing
rod in his hand.
From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 14:28:54 -0500
Subject: RE: Healey BN7 on ebay - TURN THEM IN -- the seller responds
It does sound fishy, but now that the seller has been identified, we may be
skirting close to slander unless someone has proof. There have been
lawsuits based on interference on eBay auctions. There was almost one
against some listers on the MG List for "interfering" with an eBay auction
of a MGC GTS a while back.
Patton
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Vink, Graham
Sent: Monday, September 29, 2003 1:52 PM
Cc: healey (E-mail)
Subject: RE: Healey BN7 on ebay - TURN THEM IN -- the seller responds
I'm not remotely red-faced. I still think he's using shills.
And the dead give-away is the fact that he lowered the reserve to only $1
above the current bid. The ONLY reason he would do that is because he is
trying to get a real bid, not a shill bid.
(If this auction was legitimate, he would have lowered the reserve to the
existing bid - since $52,000 is almost as good as $52,001. But he doesn't
want to do that, because if the shill bid remains the high bid when the
auction ends, he will owe E-Bay the auction fee. Obviously, he doesn't want
to pay that unless he has a real sale.)
Also, re his explanation that he bought the car for his daughter -- who
doesn't want it. How many people would really buy a $50,000 collector car -
let alone one that is four decades old - for anybody without finding out
first if she wanted a car like that?
Update: I just checked the auction again and noticed that somebody -
probably one of his shills - has bid, and the reserve has now been met. I'm
sure it's utter coincidence that the bid came 45 minutes after my skeptical
inquiry. Since the seller is now on the hook for the auction fee, I wouldn't
be surprised if he ends the auction prematurely and claims the car has been
sold.
-Graham
From GSFuqua1 at aol.com
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 16:15:20 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey BN7 on ebay - TURN THEM IN -- the seller responds
Gary
From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 17:31:28 -0400
Subject: Re: Insurance Question
thanks
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: Jmaes Lea
To: tom felts;healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: 9/29/03 9:21:34 AM
Subject: Re: Insurance Question
Tom. No dealings with Esurance but the best is Hagerty.
http://www.hagerty.com/agent_gen_insurance_faq.asp I would at least check with
them while I was shopping. Cheers, JL
From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 16:40:02 -0500
Subject: your door/cockpit trim 100/4 Big Nasty Boy
From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 16:52:15 -0500
Subject: your door/cockpit trim 100/4 Big Nasty Boy
> if you have a 100 body # 6968 (or upside down 8969!) you have my 2 door
top
> aluminium door trim pieces. i have yours. long story but you pro'lly b
> sportin' a 327 Chevy circa ? '63-69 and i believe a 2 speed Powerglide in
a
> last seen Red 100/4 built by Pete Tyre (REAL name) while he was in
> Amite,Louisiana....i last saw the car in approx.1969-70?? you also should
have
> my kingpins and early 100/6,3000 front disk brakes and home-made driver
only
> 'rollbar'.......anyone on the list?? TIA/YMMV/NFI?,
> Love-N-Stuff,
> HoYo
From "charles mitelhaus" <cdmitelhaus at hotmail.com>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 16:25:32 -0600
Subject: RE: Healey BN7 on ebay - TURN THEM IN -- the seller responds
From "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 18:39:43 -0400
Subject: Re: Healey BN7 on ebay - TURN THEM IN! Item number: 2433723403
I have three emails from the seller with about 18 -22 photos in all, sent
before they were loaded to EBAY. Unfortunately, for several reasons, EBAY
purges the sale information as soon as the sale is concluded; a real flaw in
the system.
I will forward you the emails if you want them.
Allen Miller.
From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 15:45:37 -0700
Subject: BN7 ON E-BAY IS LEGIT, SO IS SELLER
This car infact, did go through an extensive frame off restoration by
two brothers that I have known (one) for over 14 years. Infact
the one brother built the engine in my 62BT7 which I purchased
May 1984 and have not had a single problem, he also helped the
seller build the entire car, also not having a single problem.
The car in question along with eight (8) other Healeys were
built and transported to Monterey for auction last month, all sold.
Now if these cars all sold at this high test auction they must have been
correct.
I know, what were my criticisms about, either my almost 63 year old
eyes were deceiving me or the photos are of such poor quality to make
one not see things that are or are not there.
The e-bay feedback record of the seller (all buys no sells) since 1998
confirms what I was told about him. The seller (Mitch) in fact owns
several collectable business as indicated in his response to Dean Caccavo.
There is more but I'll quit.
AS far as I am concerned and convinced, this guy (Mitch) and his car are
LEGIT.
Mitch, MY APOLOGIES FOR ANY INCONVENIENCE I MAY HAVE CAUSED YOU
Kirk Kvam
62BT7 Tri-Carb
60BN7 Nasty Boy 302 Ford
P.S. The car sold at Monterey for less than the e-bay listing. Can't fault a
guy for wanting
to make a dime, don't we we all ???????
From Bob Haskell <bhaskell at iquest.net>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 17:55:18 -0500
Subject: Re: 5 Speed conversion clutch brg
Mike,
A fellow club member and lister has a nasty boy with a muncie four speed
transmission. He's got a Tilton version of the slave cylinder/release bearing.
What I like better about the mini-mania version (just based on the picture) is
the fixed ports that are perpendicular to the input shaft. The Tilton has
hoses mounted to swivels which may be harder to tie down. The ports are also
180 degrees apart, not side-by-side. Tilton's web site is www.tiltonracing.com.
Looks like they have a setup for the Supra MkIV.
Bob Haskell
British car projects: '60 AH BT-7 MkI, '64 Mini Cooper RHD, and '80 MGB LE
Metalworking projects: '29 SB 9.5 lathe, and Van Norman 1/2 mill
email: bhaskell at iquest dot net
From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 18:58:45 -0400
Subject: Re: "Tail of the Dragon" - sorry
Thanks to all who answered,
CB
"No point being stupid unless you can prove it!" - CB
From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 16:53:56 -0700
Subject: The Healey Book.
Kirk
From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 20:32:34 -0400
Subject: Repair panels for Sale
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&category=34200&item=2434686533
--
Alain Giguere
BN7 Bits
From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 20:56:34 -0400
Subject: Re: Side Curtains - Restore, Buy NOS or Reproductions?
By the way, British Car Specialists does sell the restoration kits for the
Longbridge sidecurtains, with the proper seals and the correctly angled
plexiglass.
Mick Vander Ploeg
57 BN4
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alain Giguhre" <agig@sympatico.ca>
To: "Jason Gray" <jcagray@hotmail.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 29, 2003 8:49 AM
Subject: Re: Side Curtains - Restore, Buy NOS or Reproductions?
> >Hi List,
> >
> >I have original side curtain frames, missing 1 horizontal piece on
> >one side, and the associated seals, rubber etc. They are very rough.
> >
> >Should I try to restore these frames and what sources exist?
> >
> >Buy reproductions? How good is the quality?
> >
> >Buy NOS or restored?
> >
> >Any experience/advice appreciated.
> >
> >thanks
> >
> >
> >Jason Gray
> >57 BN4
> >Vancouver BC
> >
> >_________________________________________________________________
>
> Jason,
> restoring the sidecurtains is a job any owner with average
> skills and tools can do: You'll need a file, 2-3 grades wet-dry
> sandpaper, an acrylic cutter and solvent glue dispenser with a needle
> tip. Acrylic sheet and some black felt. You can order rubber seals
> from most Healey suppliers.
>
> The sidescreen frames and hardware are available used, if yours are
> too far gone. Make sure you have the correct ones for you car. Be
> aware that you can do a lot with a file and sandpaper. You'd be
> surprised how well they clean up.
>
> Once you get them smooth with 300 wet paper look up an anodizing shop
> in your area that does Bright Dip. (Queen City Plating in TO: 416.
> 534-3501 ask for Karl) It's a process that is similar to anodizing,
> that's what they used originally. The front pane is static, so you'll
> need to carefully open the channel with a screwdriver. The plastic
> windows can be made up of same thickness acrylic or polycarbonate
> sheet. the little handles were glued with a solvent glue (you can
> pattern from the originals) A doubled-over black felt strip was laid
> in the channels, so you can get that from a specialised store. The
> mounting harware was zinc plated, so sandblasting and plating will
> fix that. The fasteners can be store bought stainless with chrome
> dome nuts.
>
> Don't forget the 2 rubber pads on each side to protect from rattling.
> NOS sidecurtains are very rare ( I found some on eBay some time ago,
> so it's not impossible) and repros are an unknown to me. Maybe other
> listers can help with that. Price of all this? Probably the same as
> buying , but more satisfying and original to the car.
>
> Good luck,
>
> --
> Alain Giguere
> BN7 Bits
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 19:04:45 -0600
Subject: Re: Smell of burning oil
On the oil pressure issue - check your gage calibration against a known
accurate gage. Buy, beg, or borrow a pressure gage & connect it to the
engine at the flex hose in place of the normal gage.
I would consider the 50 as normal with warm oil at 4000 rpm, & about 60
maximum with cold oil. If you are seeing a true 100 psi with cold oil,
the bypass/pressure relief valve is stuck, plugged, or someone has
changed it. Pressures this high can only cause the pump drive to
wear/fail, more leakage,(which may be related to your other problem) &
unnecessary oil heating.
Dave Russell
BN2
Esko Cate wrote:
> The oil pressure shown on the gage is high based on what I have read
> here, 50 is normal and have seen it go to 100 when still "cool" and
> touching about 4000 rpm. These gauges are old and have not been
> recalibrated yet, so I have not had a lot of faith in the readings (that
> is a winter task to pull them out and send them off to be recalibrated,
> particularly the water temperature readings). Is there a problem with
> the high oil pressure? Is there a leak location on the left side of the
> engine that would spray a small amount of oil on the headers? The car
> is not losing lots of oil as I have not had to add any oil during this
> break-in period.
>
> Thanks
> Esko
> BJ7
From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 22:08:23 -0400
Subject: Rear Shock Bolts
--
Alain Giguere
BN7 Bits
From "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine at hotmail.com>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 23:15:42 -0400
Subject: Re: The Healey Book.
I believe that it is because it was a limited edition book that is no longer
available (except for the odd copy here and there, and a few used copies);
thus, no regular, reliable supply equals no offer -- don't want to offer
something we can't provide.
That said, I have forwarded your question to Jerry Wall -- the guy who
handles all of these matters for the club -- and so perhaps he will reply
directly to you (and maybe also to the 700-800 other listers... or not).
;-)
Reid
Reid Trummel
Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
http://www.healey.org
----Original Message Follows----
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
Reply-To: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: The Healey Book.
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 16:53:56 -0700
Why no listing in the latest AHCUSA membership (re-enlistment)
regalia order form for President (AHCUSA) Bill Emerson's book ??????
Kirk
_________________________________________________________________
Instant message during games with MSN Messenger 6.0. Download it now FREE!
http://msnmessenger-download.com
From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 22:36:15 -0500
Subject: How to tell if you have overdrive
I have been able to take a couple of pictures from the propeller shaft
access hole of the "transmission" in front of it. Is it possible to
distinguish from that angle?
Please look at the pictures here and let me know.
http://home.earthlink.net/~kpdii/transmission.htm
Thanks
Patton
-------------------------------------
Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
Austin-Healey BN4
For Sale - 1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert
From MeditionM at netscape.net
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 23:46:42 -0400
Subject: RE: Rear Shock Bolts
Alain Giguhre <agig@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>Can anyone tell me the size of the rear shock absorber body to frame
>bolts 53K1048 ?
>I assume this is a specially hardened job.
>
>--
> Alain Giguere
> BN7 Bits
>
>
__________________________________________________________________
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 00:00:40 -0400
Subject: I'm back
I have involuntarily been off the list for about 13 days thanks to an address
change and Isabel.
If anyone cares my address is now pennell@cox.net
And also if anyone cares we were without drinkable water for 3 days, home
telephone for 8 days, and power for 9 days. Isabel was an unforgiving soul.
It was not an especially strong hurricane with high winds and lots of water.
I would estimate that in my neighborhood sustained winds were 50 with a few
gusts to 70 or so. However, the ground was already pretty well saturated from
summer rains. (We are presently running about 11 inches more rain than
normal) As a result of the soft ground many trees blew over onto houses and
power lines. It was the large number of trees on the lines that created so
much havoc.
The day after she arrived approx 70% within 25 miles of me were without power,
numbering around 300000. There are still 25000 without but all are expected
to be in service by Thursday. We did have a generator for the last 7 days so
that eased the burden some.
Sure have missed the list! If anyone has a specific message to me prior to
Sep 17 (when I changed servers) please resend now.
Keith Pennell
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 23:52:04 -0700
Subject: BJ8 tranny needed
Question:
does anyone have a rebuild-able BJ8 tranny that they would like to trade for a
rebuild-able BJ7 Tranny?
stranger things have happened.
ron Rader
2965 BJ8
From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 07:09:15 -0400
Subject: RE: How to tell if you have overdrive
Based upon your last two pictures I'm pretty sure that our car has
overdrive. The corner of the annulus casing can be seen on the left side
of the pictures.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Patton Dickson
Sent: 29-Sep-03 11:36 PM
To: 'healeys'
Subject: How to tell if you have overdrive
When I bought my car, I was expecting this to be a non-overdrive BN4. I
realized after I got the car that the "O" in the car number meant that
it
had the overdrive originally. Can I tell without jacking up the car,
or
removing the transmission tunnel.
I have been able to take a couple of pictures from the propeller shaft
access hole of the "transmission" in front of it. Is it possible to
distinguish from that angle?
Please look at the pictures here and let me know.
http://home.earthlink.net/~kpdii/transmission.htm
Thanks
Patton
-------------------------------------
Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
Austin-Healey BN4
For Sale - 1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert
From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 22:14:40 +1000
Subject: Update to Healey site
From Joe Armour <sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 22:27:56 +1000
Subject: Healeys in Books
As a sign of respect I dusted off his old Sebring race car and went to
town to pick up a copy of the just released book.
'HAWKEYE' by Ivan McLeod.
'The rapid and outrageous life of the Aurtralian racing driver'
MRP Publishing UK
MBI Publishing Minnesota 55101-3885
Enjoy a great story.
Regards Joe
From TBanks at LEVI.com
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 05:48:41 -0700
Subject: Check strap nut thread
Thanks,
Tom Banks
'64 BJ8
From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 08:21:50 -0500
Subject: RE: How to tell if you have overdrive
It's nice to find unexpected things. I guess the first thing to do is
remove the tunnel and see if everything is there. I know I am missing the
switch and the harness. I am guessing if they were removed, the O/D is
inoporational.
Patton
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 30, 2003 6:09 AM
To: 'Patton Dickson'; 'healeys'
Subject: RE: How to tell if you have overdrive
Hi Patton,
Based upon your last two pictures I'm pretty sure that our car has
overdrive. The corner of the annulus casing can be seen on the left side of
the pictures.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Patton Dickson
Sent: 29-Sep-03 11:36 PM
To: 'healeys'
Subject: How to tell if you have overdrive
When I bought my car, I was expecting this to be a non-overdrive BN4. I
realized after I got the car that the "O" in the car number meant that it
had the overdrive originally. Can I tell without jacking up the car,
or
removing the transmission tunnel.
I have been able to take a couple of pictures from the propeller shaft
access hole of the "transmission" in front of it. Is it possible to
distinguish from that angle?
Please look at the pictures here and let me know.
http://home.earthlink.net/~kpdii/transmission.htm
Thanks
Patton
-------------------------------------
Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
Austin-Healey BN4
For Sale - 1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert
From GSFuqua1 at aol.com
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 10:23:32 EDT
Subject: Re: The Healey Book.
Cheers,
Gary Fuqua
BN2 & BJ8
From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 10:44:34 -0400
Subject: RE: Check strap nut thread
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of TBanks@LEVI.com
Sent: 30-Sep-03 8:49 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Check strap nut thread
The threads are stripped on my BJ8 left hand door check strap nut.
Usual
suppliers seem to only stock a complete replacement assembly. Can
anyone
tell me what thread these nuts are? I need the left hand thread nut for
the
left door.
Thanks,
Tom Banks
'64 BJ8
From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "John Harper" <100reg@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 10:01:43 -0500
Subject: Re: question about A90 Atlantic rear end (i.e. BN1 compatible rear
> Hi John -
>
> Thanks for your thoughts on this. This rear end came
> out of a 1949 A90 Atlantic Convertible... the A90
> saloons (westminsters) we significantly different
> cars.
>
> It appears that the rear end is original, and my only
> thought is I know a few A90s were fitted with
> Automatic tranmissions... this rear end may have been
> used with the Automatics I suppose? Or maybe the
> early 1949 year they put on the 33:8 rear end. Who
> knows...
>
> Dissapointing considering I bought engine tranny &
> diff mostly to get the rear end pinion & gear... only
> to find it is the same as what I already have on the
> BN1. Oh well, ces't la vie.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
>
> --- John Harper <100reg@jharper.demon.co.uk> wrote:
> >
> > Alan
> >
> > As a good general guide it was only the Convertible
> > A90 Atlantic that
> > fitted the 3.667:1 rear axle. This was designated
> > the BD2 and was built
> > between February 1949 and August 1952.
> >
> > The Hardtop type BE2 was built from January 1952 to
> > September 1952 and
> > had the 4.125:1 ratio.
> >
> > I don't have production quantity figures to hand but
> > I seem to recall
> > that although it was built over a longer period the
> > Convertible was more
> > rare.
> >
> > One other point worth mentioning if you are looking
> > for a 3.667:1 unit
> > to fit in an early BN1 100, you might find that an
> > A90 Atlantic may have
> > a steel casting rather than the aluminium as used on
> > the 100. It will
> > still fit but you will be adding to the unsprung
> > weight. There were also
> > other minor changes but this does not prevent the
> > whole 'pumpkin' being
> > used.
> >
> > All the best
> >
> > >
> > >I just inspected (for the first time today) the
> > rear
> > >end from an A90 Atlantic that I bought. It has a
> > >4.125:1 (i.e. 33:8) diff in it. I thought all of
> > the
> > >A90s had a 3.66:1 (33:9) diff in it. Very
> > >dissapointed finding this as I was hoping to get a
> > >3.66 rear end. Does anyone know which A90s had the
> > >3.66 rear end, and which had 4.125s? I'd like to
> > keep
> > >my eye out for one, that's all. I assume the
> > Aussie
> > >listers must know all about this....
> > >
> > >Thanks,
> > >
> > >Alan
> > >
> >
> > --
> > John Harper
From "Lyle Matson" <medlabinc at msn.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "John Harper" <100reg@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 10:01:38 -0700
Subject: Grill & Surround
The 9/10/03 Austin Healey Magazine describes grill and surround removal.
Is grill and surround removal and installation for BJ8 described in the
literature. Or - could anyone elaborate on the procedure.
Dick / Cashmere, WA / BJ8
From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "John Harper" <100reg@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 13:37:08 -0400
Subject: RE: Check strap nut thread
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Freese, Ken [mailto:Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com]
Sent: 30-Sep-03 10:58 AM
To: 'Michael Salter'; TBanks@LEVI.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Check strap nut thread
I got the nut at the hardware store, but I need a new stud! I suppose I
could try to weld a new stud in.
Ken Freese
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 30, 2003 7:45 AM
To: TBanks@LEVI.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Check strap nut thread
They are a 5/16 NC LH thread. We have them in stock part # 53K1712 @
$0.99 ea. (The shipping will kill ya!!)
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of TBanks@LEVI.com
Sent: 30-Sep-03 8:49 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Check strap nut thread
The threads are stripped on my BJ8 left hand door check strap nut.
Usual
suppliers seem to only stock a complete replacement assembly. Can
anyone
tell me what thread these nuts are? I need the left hand thread nut for
the
left door.
Thanks,
Tom Banks
'64 BJ8
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "John Harper" <100reg@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 11:25:24 -0700
Subject: Re: Check strap nut thread
Cheers,
John
From "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine at hotmail.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "John Harper" <100reg@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 14:50:46 -0400
Subject: Healey Boat Mail List?
I wonder if anyone can tell if there is some kind of Mail List (like this
list) or maybe a "Yahoo! Group" or some other kind of email network for
Healey boats. If so I'd appreciate details of finding and joining it. TIA.
Reid
Reid Trummel
Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
http://www.healey.org
_________________________________________________________________
Get McAfee virus scanning and cleaning of incoming attachments. Get Hotmail
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From "BJ8 Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "John Harper" <100reg@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 17:06:34 -0700
Subject: Re: Grill & Surround
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: Lyle Matson
To: Austin Healey List
Sent: Tuesday, September 30, 2003 10:01 AM
Subject: Grill & Surround
Greetings:
The 9/10/03 Austin Healey Magazine describes grill and surround
removal.
Is grill and surround removal and installation for BJ8 described in
the
literature. Or - could anyone elaborate on the procedure.
Dick / Cashmere, WA / BJ8
From "Tim Davis" <tld6008 at mchsi.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "John Harper" <100reg@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 16:47:35 -0500
Subject: Emergency Brake button
Thanks,
Tim Davis BN7
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "John Harper" <100reg@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 16:27:48 -0700
Subject: Rafael/Lima
John Snyder
|