Patton
-------------------------------------
Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
Austin-Healey BN4
For Sale - 1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2003 08:17:20 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Update on A90 Atlantic / BN1 rear end
For those of you who are interested, a further
inspection of the rear end that I got out of the A90
Atlantic Convertible .... has resulted in my
conclusion that at some time over the last 50 years
the ring and pinion was replaced (the ring gear shows
indications of having been removed and replaced).
I have to imagine that the only ring & pinion sets
ever available for this car were the standard 4.125
ratio sets out of a BN1 so I guess that explains why
it didn't have the 3.66 ratio in it that I was hoping
to get.
Just thought some of you would be interested.
Best Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2003 08:20:28 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Trafficator Question
I'm not sure where the repro trafficators are made,
but they are pretty nice, actually. The wiring looms
may have the wrong colors on the wires, but other than
that they seem to be very nice quality. The Bakelite
is a little different than the old bakelite (i.e. less
resin in the modern mix) but other than that they new
units look almost identical to the old units.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Patton Dickson <kpdii@earthlink.net> wrote:
> Where is the reproduction trafficator made? If it's
> not the UK or US,
> what's the quality? Mine has no wiring and the
> stator tube is broken,
> besides that the appearance is pretty good. I need
> to decide if I need to
> buy an entire unit (new or used) or try to rebuild
> the one I have.
>
> Patton
> -------------------------------------
> Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
> Austin-Healey BN4
>
> For Sale - 1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2003 08:24:51 -0700
Subject: Re: Trafficator Question
I bought a repro unit from M**s.
I'm not happy with it. The plastic molding is not precise and required
some grinding to not interfere with the cancelling ring, and one of the
cancelling tangs hangs down and catches the cancelling ring whenever
the wheel is turned. This puts undue stress on the slot in the stator tube
which, because of the non-radiused slot corners (on the movable hub
units), causes cracks at the corners of the slot eventually.
Aside from that, the wiring is good and the rest of the unit is
(only) acceptable. For $250 I had hoped for better.
No idea about the source of the unit, but most of the resellers get
their parts from the same few suppliers (near as I can tell).
There is at least one shop/person that rebuilds these ... I believe the
List concensus is that the work is good (check the Archives).
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: "'healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 01, 2003 6:18 AM
Subject: Trafficator Question
> Where is the reproduction trafficator made? If it's not the UK or US,
> what's the quality? Mine has no wiring and the stator tube is broken,
> besides that the appearance is pretty good. I need to decide if I need to
> buy an entire unit (new or used) or try to rebuild the one I have.
>
> Patton
> -------------------------------------
> Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
> Austin-Healey BN4
>
> For Sale - 1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert
From Bill Rister <brister at houston.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 01 Oct 2003 10:53:02 -0500
Subject: Re: Trafficator Question
From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2003 11:17:53 -0500
Subject: RE: Trafficator Question
I need to figure out what "rebuildable" means concerning the one on my car.
The unit slides right out, so the olive and nut are gone. Also, the stator
tube has been broken at some point about 10 inches from the head unit and
welded together (It's about five feet long).
As far as the unit itself, there is a small nick on the outside, but I think
it could be cleaned it, the lever chrome is pitted, and flops to the left
and right with no effort (missing or broken springs).
For the internals, the plastic (bakelite?) piece that hold the chrome lever
to the rest of the unit obviously had some sort of lip that is broken off
(maybe the cancel mechanism) . The circular metal plate has a few dents,
but I would think that could be straightened. There is no sign of any
wiring.
I'm not willing to open the unit up without guidance, as shop guide is very
unhelpful concerning the part.
Thanks
Patton
-----Original Message-----
From: David Nock [mailto:healeydoc@sbcglobal.net]
Sent: Wednesday, October 01, 2003 10:11 AM
To: Patton Dickson; 'healeys'
Subject: Re: Trafficator Question
The replacement switches are from Asia. They are a good quality and most of
the parts are inter changable with the original switch. Before these were
put up for sale we got the sample and compared them to an original, then
they were sent back an repaired to match the oe part.
IF all that you need is the wiring and a few misc parts we have lots of used
switches and the wiring is available new.
--
David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca
209-948-8767 Fax209-948-1030 http://www.britishcarspecialists.com
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Wed, 01 Oct 2003 12:01:32 -0700
Subject: Door Check Strap Bracket needed
The one pictured is for the right side. The stud is on the right of the
bracket when the stud is pointing up and the part that bolts to the door
well is away from you.
Any reasonable condition OK.
Please reply offline. Thanks.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
From Austin Healey <ah62bn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2003 12:09:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Trafficator Question
I recently had my original trafficator totally rebuilt
by Vic Wright (cv@spiritone.com), and he did a
beautiful job both cosmetically and functionally. He
replaced the wiring and it looks almost as good as
new. It was about $160.
I have no connection to him other than being a happy
customer.
Bob Sloviter
62 BN7 tri-carb
http://www.caymanconferences.com/corvette/62BN7.htm
--- Patton Dickson <kpdii@earthlink.net> wrote:
> Where is the reproduction trafficator made? If it's
> not the UK or US,
> what's the quality? Mine has no wiring and the
> stator tube is broken,
> besides that the appearance is pretty good. I need
> to decide if I need to
> buy an entire unit (new or used) or try to rebuild
> the one I have.
>
> Patton
> -------------------------------------
> Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
> Austin-Healey BN4
>
__________________________________
The New Yahoo! Shopping - with improved product search
From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2003 13:12:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: cad plating in LA?
__________________________________
The New Yahoo! Shopping - with improved product search
From Healeyguy at aol.com
Date: Wed, 01 Oct 2003 18:03:57 -0400
Subject: Re: Trafficator Question
From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2003 08:11:41 -0400
Subject: Test.
From "Rick Neves" <Rick at genomictechnologies.com>
Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2003 19:06:55 -0400
Subject: testing, sorry
From "Alan Schultz" <alan at andysnet.net>
Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2003 18:37:05 -0500
Subject: Convertble top installation
Any advise from the listers?
Alan S.
HBJ8L
From "BJ8 Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2003 20:29:37 -0700
Subject: Re: Convertble top installation
My recollection of the treatment at the front bow is this: the top material
is pulled taut over the front bow with the bow latched in place. Make a chalk
mark on the outer surface of the top along the front edge of the bow, keeping
the material pulled taut and even (it helps to have a few more hands here) and
feeling through the material for the edge of the bow. One you have the chalk
mark across the width of the top, make another chalk mark 1/2" behind the
first one and parallel to it. Then, unlatch the bow and fold it back far
enough that you can line up the second chalk mark with the edge of the bow,
folding the material over the edge and tacking it to the bottom surface of the
bow. This will allow the top to stretch enough to get the latches closed and
to be taut and smooth.
Good luck!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: Alan Schultz
To: Austin Healey
Sent: Thursday, October 02, 2003 4:37 PM
Subject: Convertble top installation
I have gotten a far as stretching the top material to the front bow. The
instructions I am following says to tack the material in place at the edge
of
the wood bow. I do not understand. Are they suggesting tacking material on
the
top side or on the underside of the bow? Top side would result in holes
where
water can enter. How is the material fastened to avoid holes where leaks
can
occur.
Any advise from the listers?
Alan S.
HBJ8L
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2003 20:28:40 -0500
Subject: Re: Convertble top installation
From Ronald Fine <ronfineesq at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 02 Oct 2003 22:47:09 -0700
Subject: Re: Convertble top installation
From "Esko & Megan Cate" <enmcate at comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 3 Oct 2003 04:41:13 -0700
Subject: RE: Convertble top installation
Steve has a good approach. The initial tacking is on the underside. It
will be covered by the head rail seal retainer. This should be
thoroughly tacked to take the stretching strain smoothly (tack every
inch or so). There is a finish trim strip that will be tacked on the
top edge of the front face (has small chromed "points" to finish off the
ends). My original did not seem to have any sealant under that trim
strip but I had some thin black caulk strips that I laid under it to try
to eliminate any leakage at those tacks. There would be a natural seal
due to the material being rubbery but ... Even the tacking on the
underside of the wood strips will be subject to moisture if not sealed.
My original had caulk stuffed in between the head rail seal retainer and
the fabric. That appeared to be normal grey caulk with the outside face
painted black. I duplicated that approach. Best of luck.
Esko
BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Alan Schultz
Sent: Thursday, October 02, 2003 4:37 PM
To: Austin Healey
Subject: Convertble top installation
I have gotten a far as stretching the top material to the front bow. The
instructions I am following says to tack the material in place at the
edge of
the wood bow. I do not understand. Are they suggesting tacking material
on the
top side or on the underside of the bow? Top side would result in holes
where
water can enter. How is the material fastened to avoid holes where leaks
can
occur.
Any advise from the listers?
Alan S.
HBJ8L
From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
Date: Fri, 3 Oct 2003 07:12:42 -0700
Subject: RE: Convertble top installation
-
From "Alan Schultz" <alan at andysnet.net>
Date: Fri, 3 Oct 2003 09:17:29 -0500
Subject: Convertble top Installation
Alan S.
HBJ8L
From "Alan Schultz" <alan at andysnet.net>
Date: Fri, 3 Oct 2003 09:25:23 -0500
Subject: Re: Convertble top installation
I have the same problem but figure its related to the new wood pieces I
purchased because the old pieces were in poor condition. When I install the
old wood it appears that there is little problem. When I install the new
pieces they do not line up very well. I think its because I did not leave
enough clearance between the front wood and rear wood pieces. I would be
interested in Steve's reply to your question as well.
Alan S
HBJ8L
----- Original Message -----
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'BJ8 Healeys'" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>; "Austin Healey"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 03, 2003 9:12 AM
Subject: RE: Convertble top installation
> Steve,
> Do your side wood pieces line up nicely? If so, what is the secret?
> Mine don't line up too well so I get a nice breeze straight into my ear
even
> with the window up. I have seen other cars with the same problem, but not
on
> an original BJ8 with its original top.
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
Date: Fri, 03 Oct 2003 08:32:29 -0700
Subject: Re: Convertble top installation
I was having this problem with my BJ7 and added spacers under the metal
plate where the convertible frame attaches to the car. This pushed the
frame up and closed the gap at the side wood pieces. I first just
experimented by loosening the three nuts (on each side) and trying wood
shims of various thickness to close the gap (on my car about .20"). It
worked better to use the spacer on just one side of the mounting plate
to raise and tilt the assembly at the same time. I can't remember if it
was the inboard or outboard side and the car is torn apart right now.
Anyway, once I had the correct thickness, I made the fix more permanent
by using several washers to achieve the right thickness of spacer. There
might even be a factory spacer that can be used for this area. Mike
Salter said that he had some spacers that he couldn't figure out where
they went until I described this fix and the light bulb went on. Hope
this helps. If anyone else tries this let me know if it works for you or
not.
Cheers,
John
Freese, Ken wrote:
>Steve,
>Do your side wood pieces line up nicely? If so, what is the secret?
>Mine don't line up too well so I get a nice breeze straight into my ear even
>with the window up. I have seen other cars with the same problem, but not on
>an original BJ8 with its original top.
>Ken Freese
>65 BJ8
From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 3 Oct 2003 10:17:17 -0700
Subject: Re: Convertble top Installation
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Austin Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 03, 2003 7:17 AM
Subject: Convertble top Installation
> Thanks to all who responded to my question regarding the tacking of the
> convertible top fabric to the front bow for a BJ8. The PO must have
replaced
> the top back in the late 70's. There were a lot of ordinary steel staples
all
> along the top edge that were covered by the welting strip. Maybe that was
just
> a quick fix. Now I know the proper way to finish at the front bow. I
assume
> the welt strip serves to also hold the top fabric taunt otherwise one
could
> leave it off?
>
> Alan S.
> HBJ8L
From "Tracy Drummond" <bighealey at charter.net>
Date: Fri, 03 Oct 2003 17:01:31 -0400
Subject: Re: Convertble top Installation
On Fri, 3 Oct 2003 09:17:29 -0500
"Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net> wrote:
>Thanks to all who responded to my question regarding the
>tacking of the
>convertible top fabric to the front bow for a BJ8. The PO
>must have replaced
>the top back in the late 70's. There were a lot of
>ordinary steel staples all
>along the top edge that were covered by the welting
>strip. Maybe that was just
>a quick fix. Now I know the proper way to finish at the
>front bow. I assume
>the welt strip serves to also hold the top fabric taunt
>otherwise one could
>leave it off?
>
>Alan S.
>HBJ8L
From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
Date: Fri, 3 Oct 2003 17:16:49 -0400
Subject: Re: Convertble top Installation
The general principle here is that the top fabric should wrap as far as
feasible around the front bow before the staples, in order to minimize the
strain on the staples, i.e., put the strain on the staples as indirectly as
possible. From a strain point of view, for cars in general (not specific to
the Healey):
o The worst place for the staples is on the top or front of the front bow with
no wrap having occurred.
o The best place for the staples is on the top or front of the top bow UNDER
one layer of wrap.
Anywhere in between, the further along the "wrap" you can get the staples, the
better.
Instead of using chalk marks and offsetting, I like to prop the front bow a
few inches above the windshield frame and pull the fabric taut. Then, when
the front bow is pulled to the frame, the fabric will be good and tight. The
number of inches to allow will have to be derived through experimentation.
--
John Miller
phosflink:
To flick a bulb on and off when it burns out (as if, somehow, that
will bring it back to life).
-- "Sniglets", Rich Hall & Friends
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 3 Oct 2003 14:45:02 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Convertble top Installation
Last year I acquired a new Moss old stock convertible
top, wood bow and seal. These items are in as new
condition. The Moss parts numbers are 682-360 for the
seal, and 021-533 for the top proper. The top box
reads "SC1605A Soft Top Black (zip in back window)
Austin Healey 3000 BJ7 from body number 59372 to BJ8.
So, if you get a little carried away with the knife
fitting your current top, know that you can pick these
up for a song.
Of course, I'll consider trades for a BN7 hardtop? :)
Dean BN7
__________________________________
The New Yahoo! Shopping - with improved product search
From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 3 Oct 2003 17:27:45 -0500
Subject: Bent Stainless Steel Exhaust???
As I look at the parts, it appears that the pipes from the manifold have
bent forward and twisted before the "flex" part. The manifold looks fine.
Is the front pipe supposed to be lower than the rear. The clearance is so
low I can't get a 4x4 under the front pipe.
You can see what I mean here
http://home.earthlink.net/~kpdii/exhaust.htm
There are no obvious kinks or dents on the pipes. The muffler hanger is
about 4 inches short of the mounting point, but I have not tried to force
it. If they are bent, can these be straightened by a muffler shop? Can the
Stainless down pipes be purchased alone if not?
Everything else appears fine with the exception of all three mounts, which
have had the rubber come apart from the metal.
Thanks again for all of the help over the past couple of weeks. I was
planning on taking it on it's first trip Saturday (10 miles) by if I can't
get this figured out I'll have to take the Corvair.
Patton
-------------------------------------
Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
Austin-Healey BN4
For Sale - 1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert
From "Peter Linn" <greylinn at ozemail.com.au>
Date: Sat, 4 Oct 2003 08:34:17 +1000
Subject: Ward Special
This is by way of a test as I've just joined the list and although I'm
receiving mail I'm not entirely sure of how to add or join in on
correspondence - so apologies if this isn't the correct method.
I've just purchased the BN1-based Ward Special coupe (see Larry Varley's
excellent 100 resoration site for a description)
One question (which I'm sure has been dealt with before) - my car appears to
have a high speed (3.6?) diff., which makes it a bit slow to get off the mark.
I have heard that the original 1st gear can be reinstated - does anyone have
any experience/advice?
Cheers
Peter Linn
Brisbane Australia
BN1 Ward Special coupe
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Fri, 3 Oct 2003 22:12:27 -0700
Subject: Fuel Pump Diode
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 4 Oct 2003 09:03:34 -0400
Subject: Re: Convertble top Installation
I too, have a small gap over the right vent window. The left side fits
tightly.
> [Original Message]
> From: Marge and/or Len <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
> To: Healeys Mailing List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 10/3/03 1:17:53 PM
> Subject: Re: Convertble top Installation
>
> Although the concensus is that the top material at the front goes around
and
> under the bow, it would be possible to staple or tack on the tipside of
the
> bow as there is a trim piece (welting?) called a 'hide'em' (not sure about
> thes!
From "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
Date: Fri, 3 Oct 2003 23:21:55 -0400
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump Diode
You have to solder the diode to the wire coming out of the coil housing,
which is easily done with an $8 soldering kit from Radio Shack. If you
simply slip the connector over Terminal 1, there is insufficient room for
the cap to fit. This is omitted from the factory instructions, but is
mentioned by British Car Specialists and other listers.
Allen Miller BN2/M
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 04, 2003 1:12
Subject: Fuel Pump Diode
> Anybody know (for sure ;) whether the lead for the diode on later SU fuel
pumps should be wired across the points, or the two leads to the coil? In
other words should the diode shunt across the points or the coil (I know a
condensor should shunt across the points).
From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 4 Oct 2003 13:24:37 -0500
Subject: Jumping a negative ground car with a positive ground car.
Thanks
Patton
-------------------------------------
Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
Austin-Healey BN4
For Sale - 1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert
From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
Date: Sat, 4 Oct 2003 15:05:13 -0400
Subject: Re: Jumping a negative ground car with a positive ground car.
Sure. In particular, ensure the cars themselves are not touching.
--
John Miller
A bank is a place where they lend you an umbrella in fair weather and
ask for it back the when it begins to rain.
-Robert Frost
From "scott willis" <ahpowered at hotmail.com>
Date: Sat, 04 Oct 2003 15:13:26 -0500
Subject: Napa Fuel Pump Pos or neg ground?
A friend said these can be hooked up positive or negative but I see nothing
in the instructions but negative ground. Anyone have experience?
Also, is there a coupler type fitting that I can hook to my fuel lines so I
dont have to cut the ends off to install this inline filter? If so where can
I find some?
Thanks again!
~Scott
60 BN7
59 MGA
73 Bonnie
_________________________________________________________________
High-speed Internet access as low as $29.95/month (depending on the local
service providers in your area). Click here. https://broadband.msn.com
From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 4 Oct 2003 17:58:55 -0400
Subject: Re: Napa Fuel Pump Pos or neg ground?
Mick Vander Ploeg
57 BN4
----- Original Message -----
From: "scott willis" <ahpowered@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 04, 2003 4:13 PM
Subject: Napa Fuel Pump Pos or neg ground?
> Hello listers,
> I just bought my NAPA Thru-Flow fuel pump. It's the same one I have on my
> MGA.
>
> A friend said these can be hooked up positive or negative but I see
nothing
> in the instructions but negative ground. Anyone have experience?
>
> Also, is there a coupler type fitting that I can hook to my fuel lines so
I
> dont have to cut the ends off to install this inline filter? If so where
can
> I find some?
>
> Thanks again!
> ~Scott
> 60 BN7
> 59 MGA
> 73 Bonnie
From APPRAISE11 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 4 Oct 2003 20:23:04 EDT
Subject: points setting
thanks mitch
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Sat, 4 Oct 2003 18:55:25 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Napa Fuel Pump Pos or neg ground?
Black wire - negative
red wire - positive
If you are positive ground then red goes to ground.
Alan
--- scott willis <ahpowered@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Hello listers,
> I just bought my NAPA Thru-Flow fuel pump. It's the
> same one I have on my
> MGA.
>
> A friend said these can be hooked up positive or
> negative but I see nothing
> in the instructions but negative ground. Anyone have
> experience?
>
> Also, is there a coupler type fitting that I can
> hook to my fuel lines so I
> dont have to cut the ends off to install this inline
> filter? If so where can
> I find some?
>
> Thanks again!
> ~Scott
> 60 BN7
> 59 MGA
> 73 Bonnie
From Dave Carpenter <d.carpenter7 at verizon.net>
Date: Sat, 04 Oct 2003 23:36:36 -0400
Subject: Re: Napa Fuel Pump Pos or neg ground?
Thanks
Dave
Blue One Hundred wrote:
>Scott -
>
>Black wire - negative
>red wire - positive
>
>If you are positive ground then red goes to ground.
>
>Alan
>
>--- scott willis <ahpowered@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>>Hello listers,
>>I just bought my NAPA Thru-Flow fuel pump. It's the
>>same one I have on my
>>MGA.
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
Date: Sat, 04 Oct 2003 23:06:38 -0600
Subject: Re: Napa Fuel Pump Pos or neg ground?
The same pump works for all. Get the 1.5 to 3.5 psi model. I find this
pump to be very loud & much prefer the SU pumps. But - Thousands of
cheapskates can't be wrong. You can see it here;
http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10101&storeId=10101&langId=-1&productId=213121&mediaCode=ZX&appId=385038
Dave Russell
BN2
Dave Carpenter wrote:
> Does the same pump work for all Healeys or are there diferent ones?
> Anyone know the part number for one for a BJ8?
>
> Thanks
> Dave
From "scott willis" <ahpowered at hotmail.com>
Date: Sun, 05 Oct 2003 08:53:08 -0500
Subject: NO RED WIRE on CYLINDER shape Napa Fuel Pump Pos or neg ground?
Does anyone know if it can be run positive ground without damaging?
Thanks again.
Cheap bastard,
Scott
>From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
>Reply-To: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
>To: Dave Carpenter <d.carpenter7@verizon.net>
>CC: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: Napa Fuel Pump Pos or neg ground?
>Date: Sat, 04 Oct 2003 23:06:38 -0600
>
>Dave,
>
>The same pump works for all. Get the 1.5 to 3.5 psi model. I find this pump
>to be very loud & much prefer the SU pumps. But - Thousands of cheapskates
>can't be wrong. You can see it here;
>
>http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10101&storeId=10101&langId=-1&productId=213121&mediaCode=ZX&appId=385038
>
>Dave Russell
>BN2
>
>
>Dave Carpenter wrote:
>>Does the same pump work for all Healeys or are there diferent ones?
>>Anyone know the part number for one for a BJ8?
>>
>>Thanks
>>Dave
>
_________________________________________________________________
Instant message during games with MSN Messenger 6.0. Download it now FREE!
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From "Rick Neves" <Rick at genomictechnologies.com>
Date: Sun, 5 Oct 2003 12:24:47 -0400
Subject: Re: NO RED WIRE on CYLINDER shape Napa Fuel Pump Pos or neg
Sincerely
Rick Neves
'56 BN-2
----- Original Message -----
From: scott willis
To: rusd@velocitus.net ; d.carpenter7@verizon.net
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, October 05, 2003 9:53 AM
Subject: NO RED WIRE on CYLINDER shape Napa Fuel Pump Pos or neg ground?
Hi listers,
This ia the NAPA Thru-flow pump and it is cylinder shaped like a large fuel
filter and has a black and white wire. I have it on the MGA but I changed
the polarity on that car. It is inline and I never hear it after the car
starts.
Does anyone know if it can be run positive ground without damaging?
Thanks again.
Cheap bastard,
Scott
>From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
>Reply-To: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
>To: Dave Carpenter <d.carpenter7@verizon.net>
>CC: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: Napa Fuel Pump Pos or neg ground?
>Date: Sat, 04 Oct 2003 23:06:38 -0600
>
>Dave,
>
>The same pump works for all. Get the 1.5 to 3.5 psi model. I find this pump
>to be very loud & much prefer the SU pumps. But - Thousands of cheapskates
>can't be wrong. You can see it here;
>
>http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogI
d=10101&storeId=10101&langId=-1&productId=213121&mediaCode=ZX&appId=385038
>
>Dave Russell
>BN2
>
>
>Dave Carpenter wrote:
>>Does the same pump work for all Healeys or are there diferent ones?
>>Anyone know the part number for one for a BJ8?
>>
>>Thanks
>>Dave
>
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
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From "David Miscimarra" <dmisc at sbcglobal.net>
Date: Sun, 5 Oct 2003 13:18:56 -0400
Subject: Looking for Healey project
From Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 5 Oct 2003 12:00:24 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Wire wheel spokes rubbing on front disk brake caliper
---------------------------------
The New Yahoo! Shopping - with improved product search
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
Date: Sun, 05 Oct 2003 13:56:01 -0600
Subject: Re: points setting
A.015" gap should give a dwell reading of 35 degrees.
Dave Russell
BN2
APPRAISE11@aol.com wrote:
> hey listers,
> could anybody give the correct setting
> for points for a 63 bj7.
>
>
> thanks mitch
From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 5 Oct 2003 17:05:01 -0500
Subject: Re: Jumping a negative ground car with a positive ground car.
> On Saturday, October 04, 2003 14:24, Patton Dickson wrote:
> > As long as I keep the polarity correct. Is it OK to start a negative
> > ground car with a jump from a positive ground car?
>
> Sure. In particular, ensure the cars themselves are not touching.
>
> --
Exactly right, I remember back in college jumping my '66 Sprite withe my
brothers '68, the '68 was negative ground, the '66 positive. One time while
perfoming this operation, which happened a lot because the '66 had cold
weather issues, the front bumpers touched, and sparks did literally fly,
wouldn't be as big a concern with modern cars and plastice bumpers.
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
From COPPIFAN at aol.com
From: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 5 Oct 2003 18:18:20 EDT
Subject: shake at 52mph
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 05 Oct 2003 15:25:10 -0700
Subject: Re: Wire wheel spokes rubbing on front disk brake caliper
I noticed that the spokes were starting to hit on one of the BJ7 front
wheels. For the short term I switched it with one of the rear wheels
which gave a better gap between the spokes and caliper. I eventually
replaced wheels with 60 spoke Dunlop, new hubs and tires and this gave a
good healthy gap and took care of the scuttle shake problem at the same
time.
The cause? Probably a combination of 72 spoke wheels not being trued
correctly (dish or offset incorrect) and worn cone surfaces from banging
the life out of the knockoff to compensate for the worn splines.
Cheers,
John
Jorge Garcia wrote:
>Hi,
>Yesterday I took my bj8 on the longest drive so far - to the muffler shop. At
>times the front end felt like it was going to come off the car. At the
>muffler shop while the car was up on the lift someone pointed out that the
>spokes on the front passenger side wheel were rubbing on the disk brake
>caliper. You can see that what once was a sharp square edge was now round from
>the rubbing. Later today I will remove the offending wheel and amke sure
>everything is tght and see how much wear there is on the spokes. Has anyone
>ever had this happen to them and what was the cause?
>Aside from this problem it was a great ride, beautiful sunny weather, great
>fun.
>Best Regards
>Jorge
From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at comcast.net>
From: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 5 Oct 2003 15:36:08 -0700
Subject: RE: shake at 52mph
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of COPPIFAN@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, October 05, 2003 3:18 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: shake at 52mph
Somewhere there's a shake that begins on the passenger side of my 67 BJ8
at @
52mph. Any suggestions as to where a novice might begin to look?
Thanks...
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 5 Oct 2003 18:41:27 EDT
Subject: Re: shake at 52mph
From "BJ8 Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 5 Oct 2003 16:03:53 -0700
Subject: Re: Convertble top installation
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Freese, Ken
To: 'BJ8 Healeys' ; Austin Healey
Sent: Friday, October 03, 2003 7:12 AM
Subject: RE: Convertble top installation
Steve,
Do your side wood pieces line up nicely? If so, what is the secret?
Mine don't line up too well so I get a nice breeze straight into my ear
even
with the window up. I have seen other cars with the same problem, but not
on
an original BJ8 with its original top.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
-
From "BJ8 Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 5 Oct 2003 16:12:25 -0700
Subject: Re: shake at 52mph
Before I found someone who could true and balance my wheels correctly, I put
up with the balance job my local tire store could provide. That resulted in a
vibration and shake at about 55 - 60 mph (of course, that's where you
naturally want to drive all the time!). And that resulted in cracking of my
left shock tower in multiple places. It's important for more than comfort
that the shake be removed ASAP if you're going to drive your car frequently.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: COPPIFAN@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, October 05, 2003 3:18 PM
Subject: shake at 52mph
Somewhere there's a shake that begins on the passenger side of my 67 BJ8 at
@
52mph. Any suggestions as to where a novice might begin to look? Thanks...
From "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine at hotmail.com>
From: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 05 Oct 2003 19:34:36 -0400
Subject: Re: Looking for Healey project
Here are some webpages that you might find useful:
http://www.healey.org/model-big-overview.shtml
http://www.healey.org/buyers-price-guide.shtml
http://www.healey.org/for-sale.shtml
Good luck in your search!
Reid
Reid Trummel
Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
http://www.healey.org
----Original Message Follows----
From: "David Miscimarra" <dmisc@sbcglobal.net>
Reply-To: "David Miscimarra" <dmisc@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Looking for Healey project
Date: Sun, 5 Oct 2003 13:18:56 -0400
HI..I am hopefully looking to become a first time Healey owner. Looking for
a
Mk I, II, III project car.
Cheers,
Dave
_________________________________________________________________
Help protect your PC. Get a FREE computer virus scan online from McAfee.
http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963
From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 5 Oct 2003 19:44:59 -0400
Subject: Re: shake at 52mph
Tom
> [Original Message]
> From: BJ8 Healeys <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 10/5/03 7:13:27 PM
> Subject: Re: shake at 52mph
>
> Hi, Bill -
> I agree with the other replies that your shake is probably originating in
> out-of-balance tires/wheels, or out-of-true wheels or tires, or both.
Since
> Hendrix Wire Wheel trued and balanced all of my tires, my car has been
shake
> free for as fast as I've been comfortable driving it.
From "John Soderling" <jsoderling at ca.astound.net>
From: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 5 Oct 2003 17:48:22 -0700
Subject: Re: shake at 52mph
----- Original Message -----
From: <COPPIFAN@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 05, 2003 3:18 PM
Subject: shake at 52mph
> Somewhere there's a shake that begins on the passenger side of my 67 BJ8
at @
> 52mph. Any suggestions as to where a novice might begin to look? Thanks...
From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 5 Oct 2003 20:58:46 EDT
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump Diode
From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
From: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 5 Oct 2003 21:26:14 -0400
Subject: Springs in the distributor
From Douglas W Flagg <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 5 Oct 2003 21:17:24 -0400
Subject: Re:Wiring Diagram
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 5 Oct 2003 18:36:56 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: shake at 52mph
the second thing is to check wheel balance... if your
wheel is out of balance it will wear out your shocks
over time eventually causing the shaking (which is
actually your wheel bouncing on the road because the
shocks are bad and you are driving at the harmonic
frequency of your unbalanced wheel)...
Good Luck!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- COPPIFAN@aol.com wrote:
> Somewhere there's a shake that begins on the
> passenger side of my 67 BJ8 at @
> 52mph. Any suggestions as to where a novice might
> begin to look? Thanks...
From Dave Carpenter <d.carpenter7 at verizon.net>
From: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 05 Oct 2003 21:38:58 -0400
Subject: Re: shake at 52mph
Dave
67 BJ8
COPPIFAN@aol.com wrote:
>Somewhere there's a shake that begins on the passenger side of my 67 BJ8 at @
>52mph. Any suggestions as to where a novice might begin to look? Thanks...
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
From: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 5 Oct 2003 18:44:11 -0700
Subject: Re: shake at 52mph
----- Original Message -----
From: <CAWS52803@aol.com>
To: <eyera3@comcast.net>; <COPPIFAN@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 05, 2003 3:41 PM
Subject: Re: shake at 52mph
> First of all it shouldn't shake until 57 mph.
> Secondly, on newer model cars such as yours, the wheel hubs may be out of
> balance and can be corrected by someone like Hendrix Wire Wheel in
Greensboro,
> NC.
> Rudy Streng
> 54 BN4
> Shakes when it wants to. If it's old enough to smoke, it's old enough to
> shake!
From rhhs at onecom.com
From: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 05 Oct 2003 22:18:03 -0400
Subject: BJ8 air cleaners
rhhs@onecom.com
Thank you
Bob Sturdevant
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 5 Oct 2003 23:09:25 EDT
Subject: Gas fumes in 100 boot
TIA--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 5 Oct 2003 23:59:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Gas fumes in 100 boot
My 100 has very little in the way of gas fumes in the
boot. Last time I had alot of gas fumes in the boot,
it was in my BJ8 when it had a rust pin hole in the
bottom of the tank .... which eventually sprung a full
time leak all over the floor of the garage one
evening. I had strong gas smells in the back of the
BJ8 for at least 1 to 2 years... I assumed it was
normal until I realised after the gas leaking incident
that the tank probably had a pinhole leak in it for a
very long time. Since replacing the tank I have no
gas smell in it.
My guess is if you have strong gas smells in your
tank... it may not be from that little vent hole. You
may want to have your gas tank pressure tested... If
the gas smell is minimal... then it is probably just
the vent hole.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> I have the ever-present smell of gasoline in my
> boot--I assume this is
> because the gas cap vents into the closed space.
> Has anyone else had this problem
> and--hopefully--come up with a solution to it? I've
> been thinking that perhaps
> I could braise a nipple over the hole on the gas
> cap and then use flexible
> hose to vent fumes out through a small hole in the
> shroud, etc.
>
> TIA--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
From tld6008 at mchsi.com
From: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 06 Oct 2003 07:15:50 +0000
Subject: Wire wheels
Tim Davis BN7
From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2003 03:03:49 -0500
Subject: Re: Gas fumes in 100 boot
I would check other possible sources if you haven't already, tank as well as
pipe to pump.
Maybe vent hole on gas cap bigger/nonstandard?
Regards
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
> Michael -
>
> My 100 has very little in the way of gas fumes in the
> boot. Last time I had alot of gas fumes in the boot,
> it was in my BJ8 when it had a rust pin hole in the
> bottom of the tank .... which eventually sprung a full
> time leak all over the floor of the garage one
> evening. I had strong gas smells in the back of the
> BJ8 for at least 1 to 2 years... I assumed it was
> normal until I realised after the gas leaking incident
> that the tank probably had a pinhole leak in it for a
> very long time. Since replacing the tank I have no
> gas smell in it.
>
> My guess is if you have strong gas smells in your
> tank... it may not be from that little vent hole. You
> may want to have your gas tank pressure tested... If
> the gas smell is minimal... then it is probably just
> the vent hole.
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
> --- Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> > I have the ever-present smell of gasoline in my
> > boot--I assume this is
> > because the gas cap vents into the closed space.
> > Has anyone else had this problem
> > and--hopefully--come up with a solution to it? I've
> > been thinking that perhaps
> > I could braise a nipple over the hole on the gas
> > cap and then use flexible
> > hose to vent fumes out through a small hole in the
> > shroud, etc.
> >
> > TIA--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
From Ray Bradbery <rbradber at bigpond.net.au>
From: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 06 Oct 2003 19:58:34 +1000
Subject: AH BN7
Regards
Ray Bradbery
1927 MG 14/28
1949 MGTC
1951 MGTD
1958 Morris Minor Pickup
1959 Austin Healey 3000 BN7
1968 MGB V8
2002 MGTF 160
2002 BMW 330i
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
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From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2003 07:13:12 -0400
Subject: RE: points setting
Peter Schauss
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of APPRAISE11@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, October 04, 2003 8:23 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: points setting
hey listers,
could anybody give the correct setting
for points for a 63 bj7.
thanks mitch
From "Douglas W. Flagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2003 08:45:48 -0400
Subject: Re:BN4 Wiring Diagram
This list is the best. Thanks to those who sent what I needed.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
From Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
From: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 06 Oct 2003 05:58:35 -0700
Subject: Re: Wire wheels
I would recommend replacement. The best investment I have made in a
while was a new set of rims. No more
knock at take-off, no more scuttle shake.
tld6008@mchsi.com wrote:
>Anyone know of a shop that can true wire wheels in the Houston area?
>
>Tim Davis BN7
From Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
From: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2003 06:20:03 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Wire wheel offsets
---------------------------------
The New Yahoo! Shopping - with improved product search
From daniel white <dwhite4949 at earthlink.net>
From: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 06 Oct 2003 10:40:40 -0400
Subject: Re: Gas fumes in 100 boot
Dan White
'62 BN7 Mk II
From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Ray Bradbery" <rbradber@bigpond.net.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2003 09:45:35 -0500
Subject: AH BN7
> After three years I have finally finished restoration of my BN7. It has
> been a process of many frustrations but now seeing the car finally turn
> wheels on a road under its own power makes it worthwhile. I started the
> restoration in January 2001 and expected it to take six months!!
> The car has had only two owners in the UK before it was exported to
> Australia in 2000. I have been in contact with the last owner in the UK
> who is sending me photos of the car while he owned it between 1979 &
> 2000 (most of this time was spent in storage waiting for a restoration
> that never happened).
> I have an incredible amount of documentation on the car including a log
> book of every mile it was driven until it was laid up, and receipts for
> every service, and part bought for it between 1959 and 1979. I want to
> compile a history of the car so that all this valuable history isnt
> lost.
> I am now trying to find the original owner of my BN7 or his family to
> see if I can get some photos from that era. The name I have s Ian J
> Fraser of Keepers Farm, Lenham Kent, UK. Anyone suggest how I might find
> him or his family? Ian owned the car from 1959 until 1978. I have tried
> using the UK phone directories and the Post Office in Lenham, Kent to no
> avail.
> Any suggestions would be gratefully accepted.
>
> Regards
>
>
> Ray Bradbery
>
>
> 1927 MG 14/28
> 1949 MGTC
> 1951 MGTD
> 1958 Morris Minor Pickup
> 1959 Austin Healey 3000 BN7
> 1968 MGB V8
> 2002 MGTF 160
> 2002 BMW 330i
>
> ---
> Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
> Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> Version: 6.0.522 / Virus Database: 320 - Release Date: 29/09/2003
From Chris Dimmock <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "Ray Bradbery" <rbradber@bigpond.net.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 06 Oct 2003 23:57:35 +1000
Subject: Re: Wire wheel offsets
Standard width wire wheels don't have a different front/rear offset.
But if you fit wheels over 5.5 inches wide, then a different offset should
be considered if you have the option (i.e. if you were getting them made
from scratch). You need the fronts to effectively have less track - to keep
them 'under' the front guards - but if you try to use that offset on the
rear - they'll rub on the rear inner wheelwell. Thats why most 6 in wire
wheels stick out from under the front guards - most people only make/ sell
one offset - so you get all 4 wheels with the same offset - which is the
offset to clear the rear inner wheelwell - thats why they stick out at the
front.
On my 6in centrelock minilites, the front wheels are offset about (from
memory - not an absolute accurate number) about 9 - 12 mm - ie just over
3/8in - so that coupled with the negative camber - they appear to be under
the front guards. You can do the same with bolt on minilites using a
spacer - but you need to have wires 'made' that way.
I had a set of 72 spoke, 5.5 in wires - which were originally off a TR -
TR6? I think? which had a different front/rear offset. I'm, not sure if
they were standard or specially made.
Best regards
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jorge Garcia" <fortee9er@yahoo.com>
To: "Austin Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 06, 2003 11:20 PM
Subject: Wire wheel offsets
> Do the wire wheels on a bj8 have different offsets for the front vs the
rear? If so are they marked and where?
> Thanks
> Jorge
> 65 bj8
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "Ray Bradbery" <rbradber@bigpond.net.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2003 08:27:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: BN7 Pulls to the right
I am guessing that the remanufactured right front
shock arm is bent back introducing more caster. I
recall having to tilt the kingpin back a bit to get
the top bolt to line up. Before disassembly, is there
a method to test this theory. The shock vendor
recommends removing both left and right shocks and
matching them together base-to-base. I would prefer
not to disassemble both sides...
Dean BN7
PS. Alignment shop could not put the car on the
computer rack due to clearance issues.
__________________________________
The New Yahoo! Shopping - with improved product search
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Ray Bradbery" <rbradber@bigpond.net.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2003 12:41:05 EDT
Subject: Gas Fumes in 100 Boot followup
Does anyone know of any regent paste or the like that turns a color, etc., in
the presence of gasoline? Also,. what is a good deodorizer for Armacord?
Best--Michael Oritt
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Ray Bradbery" <rbradber@bigpond.net.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 06 Oct 2003 11:50:43 -0600
Subject: Re: Gas fumes in 100 boot
Is it your left or right boot thas has gas in it. It could make a
difference in diagnosing. I would change socks right away.
Seriously, my BN2 has the same problem. The tank is definitely NOT
leaking anywhere. The only thing that I have been able to find is that
the flange on the filler neck is slightly distorted (shipping damage) &
prevents a perfect seal of the filler cap gasket. Occasionally a tiny
bit of gas sloshes up to the cap & seeps out under the filler cap
gasket. It only takes a little gas to make a big stink. It has not been
enough of a problem for me to try to straighten the flange.
Dave Russell
BN2
Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> I have the ever-present smell of gasoline in my boot--I assume this is
> because the gas cap vents into the closed space. Has anyone else had this
>problem
> and--hopefully--come up with a solution to it? I've been thinking that
>perhaps
> I could braise a nipple over the hole on the gas cap and then use flexible
> hose to vent fumes out through a small hole in the shroud, etc.
>
> TIA--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Ray Bradbery" <rbradber@bigpond.net.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2003 14:10:09 -0400
Subject: Non Healey Joke
Even the parking lot attendants are exclusively female so that a comfortable
and safe environment is created for patrons. Below is the first picture
available of this world-first women-only parking lot.
http://www.mmscc.com/mypics/parkinglot.jpg
From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2003 14:59:01 -0400
Subject: Re: Gas fumes in 100 boot
> because the gas cap vents into the closed space. Has anyone else had
this problem
> and--hopefully--come up with a solution to it? I've been thinking
that perhaps
> I could braise a nipple over the hole on the gas cap and then use
flexible
> hose to vent fumes out through a small hole in the shroud, etc.
>
> TIA--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2003 12:15:12 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Pot Luck GT / Mason Park, Irvine Oct. 19th - 11:am-2:pm
__________________________________
The New Yahoo! Shopping - with improved product search
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2003 14:18:53 -0500
Subject: Re: BN7 Pulls to the right
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2003 15:53:34 EDT
Subject: Was Gas Fumes/ Now Egg-On-Face Remover
When I last installed the sender I bedded it in non-hardening Permatex
(black). What is the "sealant of choice" for gasoline and solvents?
TIA--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
From "Tracy Drummond" <bighealey at charter.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
Date: Mon, 06 Oct 2003 16:18:45 -0400
Subject: Re: Was Gas Fumes/ Now Egg-On-Face Remover
I used Hylomar fuel resistant gasket goop. Available at
NAPA this is similar to gorilla snot. Brown and slow to
dry. Do not over tighten and be generous.
Tracy
On Mon, 6 Oct 2003 15:53:34 EDT
Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
>After having earlier stated unequivocally that my sender
>was NOT the source
>of the gas fumes, I covered the top of my tank with
>talcum powder and filled it
>to the bottom of the neck. Lo and behold, the leak IS at
>the sender. My
>apologies to anyone whose advice I dismissed out-of-hand.
>
>When I last installed the sender I bedded it in
>non-hardening Permatex
>(black). What is the "sealant of choice" for gasoline and
>solvents?
>
>TIA--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
From ZManDino at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2003 16:27:43 EDT
Subject: Re: Non Healey Joke
Helga (+Alex) 1960 MkI BN7 Lady Godiva (a gold medal winner)
PS Do we have a BN7 Registry ? If not, I am willing to start one.
From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2003 15:03:29 -0600
Subject: Re: BN7 Pulls to the right
Frogeye@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100 '62 Fiat 1600S
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <healeybn7@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 06, 2003 1:18 PM
Subject: Re: BN7 Pulls to the right
> with radial tires, there should be 0 toe-in. the front tires should look
straight ahead. the old toe-in spec was for bias ply tires.
> Dean Caccavo wrote:
> >
> > After replacing the front shocks with remanufactured
> > units and having the toe adjusted (less toe in) by an
> > alignment shop, the car pull to the right. Didn't
> > before. Ugh!
> >
> > I am guessing that the remanufactured right front
> > shock arm is bent back introducing more caster. I
> > recall having to tilt the kingpin back a bit to get
> > the top bolt to line up. Before disassembly, is there
> > a method to test this theory. The shock vendor
> > recommends removing both left and right shocks and
> > matching them together base-to-base. I would prefer
> > not to disassemble both sides...
> >
> > Dean BN7
> >
> > PS. Alignment shop could not put the car on the
> > computer rack due to clearance issues.
> >
> > __________________________________
> > The New Yahoo! Shopping - with improved product search
From "Jerry Goodman" <Jerry.Goodman at comcast.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2003 15:48:06 -0500
Subject: A Buddy Needs HELP
From "BJ8 Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2003 14:07:05 -0700
Subject: Re: Was Gas Fumes/ Now Egg-On-Face Remover
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Awgertoo@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, October 06, 2003 12:53 PM
Subject: Was Gas Fumes/ Now Egg-On-Face Remover
After having earlier stated unequivocally that my sender was NOT the source
of the gas fumes, I covered the top of my tank with talcum powder and filled
it
to the bottom of the neck. Lo and behold, the leak IS at the sender. My
apologies to anyone whose advice I dismissed out-of-hand.
When I last installed the sender I bedded it in non-hardening Permatex
(black). What is the "sealant of choice" for gasoline and solvents?
TIA--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
Date: Mon, 06 Oct 2003 15:24:03 -0600
Subject: Re: Gas fumes in 100 boot
Thank you very much. An idea well worth considering.
Dave Russell
BN2
Michael Salter wrote:
> I believe that as long as the fuel tank for the 100 is in the boot
> (trunk) your fumes will permeate anything absorbent that is in there.
> One of out more inventive customers, who was plagued with this problem,
> has come up with what I think is a great solution.
> First he plugged the vent hole in the fuel cap and made sure that it
> (the cap) sealed well.
> Then he drilled a small hole near the top of the filler neck into which
> he soldered a small brass tube to which he attached a length of 1/8"
> fuel resistant hose. The hose is routed out through the boot floor.
> The problem was completely solved, and has been for several years.
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2003 18:33:04 EDT
Subject: BN7 Registry, was Re: Non Healey Joke
Bill Naretta
404 Peach Tree Circle
Loves Park, IL 61111
(815) 282-5003
MNaretta@aol.com
Steve
P.S. I thought it was pretty funny
ZManDino@aol.com writes:
> I do not think that is very funny.
>
> Helga (+Alex) 1960 MkI BN7 Lady Godiva (a gold medal winner)
>
> PS Do we have a BN7 Registry ? If not, I am willing to start one.
From "Tracy Drummond" <bighealey at charter.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
Date: Mon, 06 Oct 2003 19:07:10 -0400
Subject: British Car Round-up in Clovis
I will be leaving about 6am from Morgan Hill and stay at
the University Inn (The Clovis Cole is full).
Tracy
From David Smith <bighealeydude at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2003 16:02:09 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Speedometer Lubricant
---------------------------------
The New Yahoo! Shopping - with improved product search
From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2003 18:34:57 -0500
Subject: Heritage Certificate Question
My issue is that the certificate lists the car as an "Austin-Healey 100-Six
Two Seater" and it's a four seat car. The car number is BN4-L/37718 which
also means Four Seat.
Should I contact them to correct it? Is there a reason that a BN4 would be
listed as a Two Seat car? It appears to be a simple mistake, but for $50,
I would like it correct.
The funny thing is the build date is April 1, 1957, so maybe it's just an
April Fools Joke!!! A web search shows that the BBC aired a feature on the
spaghetti crop harvest in Switzerland that day!!!
Patton
-------------------------------------
Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
Austin-Healey BN4
For Sale - 1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
Date: Mon, 06 Oct 2003 17:42:29 -0600
Subject: Re: Was Gas Fumes/ Now Egg-On-Face Remover
As a sealer, Hylomar HPF has worked well for me.
Dave Russell
BN2
Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> After having earlier stated unequivocally that my sender was NOT the source
> of the gas fumes, I covered the top of my tank with talcum powder and filled
>it
> to the bottom of the neck. Lo and behold, the leak IS at the sender. My
> apologies to anyone whose advice I dismissed out-of-hand.
>
> When I last installed the sender I bedded it in non-hardening Permatex
> (black). What is the "sealant of choice" for gasoline and solvents?
>
> TIA--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2003 19:52:48 EDT
Subject: Re: Heritage Certificate Question
From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2003 19:37:42 -0500
Subject: Re: A Buddy Needs HELP
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Goodman" <Jerry.Goodman@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 06, 2003 3:48 PM
Subject: A Buddy Needs HELP
> My friend has a Spitfire ...ZS carb, 12 volt coil, lucas electronic
> Ignition, Ign Module AB14....heres the problem...and PLEASE ...I know..
its
> a Spit. OK.. Under acceleration runs fine...when cruising at any speed it
> has a hestiation and miss.....it is 8 degrees retarded right now...says
even
> if advanced still has miss....while cruising if accelerating
again...smooth
> as can be ....I think its a timing problem ..but he says he has tried that
> ...any ideas????Thanks
> Jerry G
> 59BE
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2003 20:24:18 -0500
Subject: Rear Seat Pan , help
Thanks , Mark,
58-MGA
60-MGA
76-MGB
74.5-MGBGT
60-BT7
From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2003 20:29:33 -0500
Subject: RE: Heritage Certificate Question
Also, they do have April Fools Day in the UK. The BBC Spaghetti farming
story aired on 1 April 1957 is supposedly one of the most notorious April
Fools Day jokes.
Patton
-----Original Message-----
From: CAWS52803@aol.com [mailto:CAWS52803@aol.com]
Sent: Monday, October 06, 2003 6:53 PM
To: kpdii@earthlink.net
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Heritage Certificate Question
Hi Patton,
Yes you are right and they are wrong. I think it warrants you to get a
correct certificate at no charge. I think we have done this before, but my
BN4 36684 was built 13, March 1957, so April first sounds about right.
Besides they probably don't have an April Fool's Day over there.
Rudy Streng
Lenoir, NC
100/Six Registrar
PS: Personally, I think the whole Heritage Certificate is over rated. I see
many Healeys for sale that come with the Certificate. Kinda like a paper
that verifies that the car was built. Nice to have but I'd rather have a
straight and solid frame.
From "James Shope" <healeymanjim at JoiMail.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2003 19:33:12 -0700
Subject: convertible top
From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2003 22:56:13 EDT
Subject: Re: Rear Seat Pan , help
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From "James Shope" <healeymanjim at JoiMail.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2003 19:55:37 -0700
Subject: shake at 52
From DrBerkowitz at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2003 22:58:24 EDT
Subject: Re: points setting
From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2003 23:06:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Distributor Springs
The weights appear to be identical. with the lighter or heavier spring
the on difference. The cross bar on the rotor shaft also appears to
have identical arms and pins that fit into the weight assemblies.
Now that my distributor advances properly I regained about 50 horsepower
and the idle will adjust again on my carburetors.
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2003 02:09:10 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey for sale
Looking for something to do in your spare time ?
Want to know your British Car inside-out ?
Always dreamed of becoming a "Big Healey Man" ?
Then here is just what you need !
1960 Austin Healey 3000 Mark 1
It's all here ... an excellent candidate for a complete restoration.
[Unable to display image]
Waiting for just the right British Car Enthusiast
It has been sitting, without being run for the last 5 years,
This Healey is located & can be seen in Lanikai.
Asking $1,500
For information contact Victor
email <A HREF="mailto:mvg@hawaii.rr.com";>mvg@hawaii.rr.com</A>
phone is 527-8010
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
AHFront.jpg]
From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2003 23:12:43 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Gas Fumes in Boot
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2003 02:15:17 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey for sale
From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2003 07:10:49 -0400
Subject: Re: International 'April Fool's) (no LBC content)
Gives a new meaning to 'time for a beer'!
CB
From "Douglas W. Flagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2003 08:30:45 -0400
Subject: Re:Dynamo Rebuild
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2003 08:36:17 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: RE: Heritage Certificate Question
BMIHT : Richard Bacchus [new boss]
E-Mail : rbacchus@landrover
Phone : 011-44-1926-641188
I've also attached my file on this topic. Enjoy. [Yes, I know attachments get
stripped from the
Healey List]
--- Patton Dickson <kpdii@earthlink.net> wrote: << Any idea who the right
person to contact is?
I just filled out an internet form to get the certificate. ... >>
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type application/msword which had a
name of Heritage Certificate.doc]
From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2003 07:42:22 -0500
Subject: RE: Heritage Certificate Question
Thanks
Patton
-----Original Message-----
From: J. Scott Morris [mailto:jstmorris@yahoo.com]
Sent: Tuesday, October 07, 2003 7:36 AM
To: Patton Dickson; CAWS52803@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Heritage Certificate Question
Hi Patton; Here is the contact information you requested.
BMIHT : Richard Bacchus [new boss]
E-Mail : rbacchus@landrover
Phone : 011-44-1926-641188
I've also attached my file on this topic. Enjoy. [Yes, I know attachments
get stripped from the Healey List]
--- Patton Dickson <kpdii@earthlink.net> wrote: << Any idea who the right
person to contact is?
I just filled out an internet form to get the certificate. ... >>
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
From "Terence H. & Suzanne F. McCool" <cm18 at epix.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2003 09:12:32 -0400
Subject: Tachometer conversion
From Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2003 06:47:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: What does it mean? Was wheel spokes rubbing brake caliper.
---------------------------------
The New Yahoo! Shopping - with improved product search
From N0040 at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2003 13:35:16 EDT
Subject: Trunk Lid and Seal - BJ8 MK3
Didn't notice before installing seal, that the lip along the right and left
edges of lid outer skin was never hammered over to tightly clamp the inner
support frame. Therefore, these edges are now 1/4" or 3/8" wide instead of only
an
1/16" edge to dig into the seal. When closing the lid it now bulges because
the wider lip prevents even seal.
Am I correct that these edges should be bent over equally around the whole
lid?
If I am correct, what are my options. The lid is painted well and in good
shape. Any suggestion in how to "wrap" the edge around without breaking the
paint
?
Regards,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
From N0040 at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2003 14:42:06 EDT
Subject: Re: Trunk Lid and Seal - BJ8 MK3
Well, looks like a lot of clean up, wasted time and another order to V-B is
now in store.
Regards,
Anonymous - BJ8
Unknown City, MI
From BN1HealeyFan at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2003 15:39:49 EDT
Subject: Re: Gas fumes in 100 boot
Bill Scannell
BN-1
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2003 16:24:11 EDT
Subject: $90,000 BJ8?
RM Auctions, Monterey August 15-16, 2003
1966 Austin-Healey 3000 Mark 3 BJ8 Convertible. S/n HBJ8L29107. Ice blue
over navy blue leather. Chrome wire wheels. Fully restored by a Healey
specialist to a concours-winning standard. SOLD AT $90, 201. There were two
very
determined bidders in the room for this one and the price soared far beyond the
expected $65,000. After the auction, the new owner was so happy to have the
car he wanted that the price became irrelevant.
Boy, it seems like only yesterday that kind of money would get you a nice
100S!
Expensive Healeying,
Rick
From daniel white <dwhite4949 at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
Date: Tue, 07 Oct 2003 17:43:46 -0400
Subject: HS4 tricarb question
Dan White
'62 BN7
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
Date: Tue, 07 Oct 2003 17:18:58 -0700
Subject: Crack in Head
Has anyone had this experience? Is the 1/4" long crack significant
enough to worry about? If so, can it be welded with success? As
usual, thanks for the great help.
Terry Blubaugh
Southern California . . . . . looks like it's about to be Arrrnold
country.
From "Esko & Megan Cate" <enmcate at comcast.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2003 17:30:38 -0700
Subject: Mounting chrome question
Esko
BJ7
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
Date: Tue, 07 Oct 2003 19:01:24 -0600
Subject: Re: HS4 tricarb question
More likely, it is to keep the jet tube cool so that it isn't heat
damaged or to prevent fuel boiling in the tube. This is the hottest
place in the engine compartment.
Dave Russell
BN2
daniel white wrote:
> Upon cleaning and inspecting my carbs ('62 BN7, triple HS4) I notice
> that on the carb closest to the fire wall there is a woven fabric (?)
> sleeve on the feed tube that goes from the float chamber to the jet
> head. The other two carbs don't have this covering. Is this supposed
> to be this way? If so, what purpose does it serve? My wife said it's
> to keep the tube warm in the cold weather... any input would be helpful,
> otherwise I'll have to accept my wife's answer.
>
> Dan White
> '62 BN7
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
Date: Tue, 07 Oct 2003 19:05:04 -0600
Subject: Re: $90,000 BJ8?
Well another interesting Healey with a questionable VIN - my BJ8 some 50 odd
numbers
earlier than this one was built in late 1964 and sold here in Canada as a 1965.
I find
it very difficult to believe that BMC produced only 60 BJ8's between late fall
1964
and January 1966 (or late 1965). This of course has nothing to do with the
quality of
the restoration but more with the integrity of the PO and possibly that of the
restorer.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
'65 BJ8
'89 Morgan 4/4
HealeyRic2@aol.com wrote:
> Another one from Automobile Magazine, November 2003, p.123:
>
> RM Auctions, Monterey August 15-16, 2003
>
> 1966 Austin-Healey 3000 Mark 3 BJ8 Convertible. S/n HBJ8L29107. Ice blue
> over navy blue leather. Chrome wire wheels. Fully restored by a Healey
> specialist to a concours-winning standard. SOLD AT $90, 201. There were two
>very
> determined bidders in the room for this one and the price soared far beyond
>the
> expected $65,000. After the auction, the new owner was so happy to have the
> car he wanted that the price became irrelevant.
>
> Boy, it seems like only yesterday that kind of money would get you a nice
> 100S!
>
> Expensive Healeying,
> Rick
From Bob Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
Date: Tue, 07 Oct 2003 21:39:09 -0700
Subject: Re: $90,000 BJ8?
Bob Denton
M.E. & E.A. Driver wrote:
>Hi Rick
>
>Well another interesting Healey with a questionable VIN - my BJ8 some 50 odd
>numbers
>earlier than this one was built in late 1964 and sold here in Canada as a
>1965. I find
>it very difficult to believe that BMC produced only 60 BJ8's between late fall
>1964
>and January 1966 (or late 1965). This of course has nothing to do with the
>quality of
>the restoration but more with the integrity of the PO and possibly that of the
>restorer.
>
>Kind regards
>Ed
>Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
>'65 BJ8
>'89 Morgan 4/4
>
>
>HealeyRic2@aol.com wrote:
>
>
>
>>Another one from Automobile Magazine, November 2003, p.123:
>>
>>RM Auctions, Monterey August 15-16, 2003
>>
>>1966 Austin-Healey 3000 Mark 3 BJ8 Convertible. S/n HBJ8L29107. Ice blue
>>over navy blue leather. Chrome wire wheels. Fully restored by a Healey
>>specialist to a concours-winning standard. SOLD AT $90, 201. There were two
>very
>>determined bidders in the room for this one and the price soared far beyond
>the
>>expected $65,000. After the auction, the new owner was so happy to have the
>>car he wanted that the price became irrelevant.
>>
>>Boy, it seems like only yesterday that kind of money would get you a nice
>>100S!
>>
>>Expensive Healeying,
>>Rick
From GSFuqua1 at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2003 21:53:40 EDT
Subject: Re: $90,000 BJ8?
Please, no flaming. I just don't understand this and am not trying to be a
smart guy so let the education begin.
Thanks,
Gary Fuqua
BN2 & BJ8
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
Date: Tue, 07 Oct 2003 20:21:33 -0600
Subject: Re: Crack in Head
Any crack is something to worry about. It is very unlikely that it will
get smaller. If the crack isn't through to the water jacket yet, it will
be in the future. This has caused mysterious overheating & coolant loss
quite often. The seat is also likely to fall out sometime in the future.
A few people have had cracks welded by a very experienced welder. I
think that it is a PERMANENT fix about 30% of the time. The valve seat
will still have to be redone.
It if all kind of "iffy" for a car that you want to be reliable.
In my opinion, hardened valve seats are not really necessary on most
cars. Cutting the head for the seats removes material in a critical area
& can reduce strength of the head.
Dave Russell
BN2
Terry Blubaugh wrote:
> I'm in the process of re-working a spare head for a standard 29D
> engine.The PO had installed hardened seats when the last valve job was
> done, and now, the magnaflux process has highlighted a small crack,
> emanating from the hardened seat area, moving towards the center of the
> casting.
>
> Has anyone had this experience? Is the 1/4" long crack significant
> enough to worry about? If so, can it be welded with success? As usual,
> thanks for the great help.
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
Date: Tue, 07 Oct 2003 21:39:45 -0700
Subject: Re: $90,000 BJ8?
HealeyRic2@aol.com wrote:
> Another one from Automobile Magazine, November 2003, p.123:
> RM Auctions, Monterey August 15-16, 2003
> 1966 Austin-Healey 3000 Mark 3 BJ8 Convertible. S/n HBJ8L29107. Ice blue
> over navy blue leather. Chrome wire wheels. Fully restored by a Healey
> specialist to a concours-winning standard. SOLD AT $90, 201. There were two
>very
> determined bidders in the room for this one and the price soared far beyond
>the
> expected $65,000. After the auction, the new owner was so happy to have the
> car he wanted that the price became irrelevant.
> Expensive Healeying,
> Rick
From tld6008 at mchsi.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
Date: Wed, 08 Oct 2003 05:15:45 +0000
Subject: Re: What does it mean? Was wheel spokes rubbing brake caliper.
From "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine at hotmail.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
Date: Wed, 08 Oct 2003 01:59:35 -0400
Subject: Healey Production By Year (was "Re: $90,000 BJ8?")
Check the info on pages 167-9 of the 2003 Austin-Healey Resource Book (for
anyone who doesn't know what the Resource Book is, please see
http://www.healey.org/resource-book.shtml) for a discussion of production,
by year, of Austin-Healeys. You might also want to check the fold-out
between pages 170 and 171. Lots of good info there too.
I think that the common wisdom on which year a Healey is titled/registered
is that it is merely the year (or "model year") in which the car was sold.
The "model year" began as early as September of the previous year, following
the pattern of US carmakers where the "1967 models" were introduced in
September 1966.
By all rights your BJ8 -- built in December 1965 -- should be titled as a
1966 model, but who knows how or why it took so long to get it sold/titled
as a 1967. The differences are mostly notional in any case, but there does,
in my experience, seem to be some sort of cache to having a "1967 model"
(even if it was made in 1966 or even 1965!) since 1967 was the last year of
manufacture of the big Healeys.
You know, it's also very interesting that there are almost no BJ8s
titled/registered as 1968 models (there are a very few kicking around, but
they were in Canada or otherwise not in the USA). With so many BJ8s made in
1967, even up until late December 1967, many would qualify as "1968 models."
And so why is it that we can find a BJ8 made in December 1965 that is
titled as a 1967, but a BJ8 made in late December 1967 is also titled as a
1967! (Heck, following the pattern of your car, a BJ8 made in 12/67 could
even be a 1969 BJ8!) Well of course the answer is that on January 1, 1968,
the new US emissions regulations and safety regulations came into effect,
and since the BJ8s did not comply, they had to be titled/registered in 1967,
the last year in which they were "legal."
Personally, I like to think of the cars as belonging to the year in which
they were actually made, but that's just me.
I hope this is helpful.
Cheers,
Reid
Reid Trummel
Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
http://www.healey.org
----Original Message Follows----
From: GSFuqua1@aol.com
Reply-To: GSFuqua1@aol.com
To: edriver@sk.sympatico.ca, HealeyRic2@aol.com
CC: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: $90,000 BJ8?
Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2003 21:53:40 EDT
OK, call me stupid, naive, etc., but what does the VIN # difference have to
do with integrity? My BJ8 was built in December of 1965 (per the Heritage
Certificate) and shipped to the US that same month but it was not sold or
titled
until 1967 so it is now listed as a 1967 BJ8. There undoubtedly were many
BJ8's built after mine that are titled as 1966 BJ8's and some that are
1967's.
Given that they were all Mk III BJ8 phase II's with only very minor
differences
what does that matter?
Please, no flaming. I just don't understand this and am not trying to be a
smart guy so let the education begin.
Thanks,
Gary Fuqua
BN2 & BJ8
_________________________________________________________________
Instant message with integrated webcam using MSN Messenger 6.0. Try it now
FREE! http://msnmessenger-download.com
From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 00:19:50 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Rear Seat Pan , help
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2003 20:24:18 -0500
From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre"
<mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
Subject: Rear Seat Pan , help
Does anyone have a used rear seat pan or set of seat
pans that they would like to redeem for some money.
Mine turned to swiss cheese when I had them
blasted....
__________________________________
The New Yahoo! Shopping - with improved product search
From Ray Bradbery <rbradber at bigpond.net.au>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
Date: Wed, 08 Oct 2003 20:49:04 +1000
Subject: Horn's
Regards
Ray Bradbery
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.524 / Virus Database: 321 - Release Date: 6/10/2003
From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
Date: Wed, 08 Oct 2003 07:07:50 -0400
Subject: non healey related
From "BJ8 Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 07:07:42 -0700
Subject: Re: $90,000 BJ8?
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Ron Rader
To: HealeyRic2@aol.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, October 07, 2003 9:39 PM
Subject: Re: $90,000 BJ8?
Ok. It is only a matter of minutes before someone says that this is yet
another
anomaly.
First class cars (and I assume this is another on of Kurt Tanners cars) do
sell at
amazing prices.
This guy does great work.
Ron Rader
1965 BJ8
For sale $89,999 today only
HealeyRic2@aol.com wrote:
> Another one from Automobile Magazine, November 2003, p.123:
> RM Auctions, Monterey August 15-16, 2003
> 1966 Austin-Healey 3000 Mark 3 BJ8 Convertible. S/n HBJ8L29107. Ice
blue
> over navy blue leather. Chrome wire wheels. Fully restored by a Healey
> specialist to a concours-winning standard. SOLD AT $90, 201. There were
two very
> determined bidders in the room for this one and the price soared far
beyond the
> expected $65,000. After the auction, the new owner was so happy to have
the
> car he wanted that the price became irrelevant.
> Expensive Healeying,
> Rick
From "BJ8 Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 07:16:21 -0700
Subject: Re: $90,000 BJ8?
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
From: M.E. & E.A. Driver
To: HealeyRic2@aol.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, October 07, 2003 6:05 PM
Subject: Re: $90,000 BJ8?
Hi Rick
Well another interesting Healey with a questionable VIN - my BJ8 some 50
odd numbers
earlier than this one was built in late 1964 and sold here in Canada as a
1965. I find
it very difficult to believe that BMC produced only 60 BJ8's between late
fall 1964
and January 1966 (or late 1965). This of course has nothing to do with the
quality of
the restoration but more with the integrity of the PO and possibly that of
the
restorer.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
'65 BJ8
'89 Morgan 4/4
From Stella67 at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
Date: Wed, 08 Oct 2003 08:21:05 -0400
Subject: Re: $90,000 BJ8?
It an interesting hobby that after 30+ years I still get surprised by things I
discover when I find a new restoration challenge.
Have fun!
From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 07:00:13 -0600
Subject: Crack in Head
> I'm in the process of re-working a spare head for a standard 29D
> engine.The PO had installed hardened seats when the last valve job was
> done, and now, the magnaflux process has highlighted a small crack,
> emanating from the hardened seat area, moving towards the center of
> the casting.
>
> Has anyone had this experience? Is the 1/4" long crack significant
> enough to worry about? If so, can it be welded with success? As
> usual, thanks for the great help.
>
> Terry Blubaugh
> Southern California . . . . . looks like it's about to be Arrrnold
> country.
From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 07:05:55 -0600
Subject: Re: HS4 tricarb question
Frogeye@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100 '62 Fiat 1600S
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "daniel white" <dwhite4949@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 07, 2003 3:43 PM
Subject: HS4 tricarb question
> Upon cleaning and inspecting my carbs ('62 BN7, triple HS4) I notice
> that on the carb closest to the fire wall there is a woven fabric (?)
> sleeve on the feed tube that goes from the float chamber to the jet
> head. The other two carbs don't have this covering. Is this supposed
> to be this way? If so, what purpose does it serve? My wife said it's
> to keep the tube warm in the cold weather... any input would be helpful,
> otherwise I'll have to accept my wife's answer.
>
> Dan White
> '62 BN7
From Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 08 Oct 2003 06:09:07 -0700
Subject: Re: shake at 52
James Shope wrote:
>one of the guys in our club has a bj7 which has a shake that starts about 40
>and gets worse up to about 65-70 where it seems to smooth out. we bought new
>chrome wheels and some new 185/65 15 tires but the shake is still there. could
>it possibly be a bent or unbalanced driveline. have not checked the rear
>shocks or oil yet, but will asap. healeymanjim
>
>***
From Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 08 Oct 2003 06:11:42 -0700
Subject: Re: What does it mean? Was wheel spokes rubbing brake caliper.
Jorge Garcia wrote:
>Yesterday I posted how I had noticed that the front passenger wheel spokes
>were rubbing the brake caliper. Last night I raised the front end of the car
>and grabbed the tire (front pass side) and tried moving it. It moved there was
>a bit of play. Then I removed the wheel to see if the brake/hub had any play
>and it did not. Am I right in assuming that the hub splines and or the wheel
>hub is worn? If that is the case how much do you all think it will cost to
>rectify?
>Thanks
>Jorge
From Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 08 Oct 2003 06:14:42 -0700
Subject: Re: Mounting chrome question
Do not overtighten the hood vent trim piece. Use nylocks and some
rubber washers. Overtightening results in three cute dimples that
cannot be removed with plastic or any other type of surgery. I would
not recommend using caulking.
Esko & Megan Cate wrote:
>Just about to mount the rest of the chrome on the BJ7, up front and on
>sides (door waste moulding, flash, air intake grill, air intake
>surround, grill and grill surround). Is it recommended to use caulk, or
>something like it, under the chrome pieces to help eliminate rattle? On
>an older door waste moulding that I have, there is a caulk strip on the
>inside, along the bottom. It is clear that the intent there was to
>reduce rattle and seal the lower edge. Is that recommended on other
>pieces as well? If so, what is the best material to use? Thanks in
>advance.
>
>Esko
>BJ7
From Jnhorn at aol.com
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 09:40:30 EDT
Subject: Distributor Rotors
From Eric Wells <ericasc at associatedprinting.biz>
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 10:21:01 -0400
Subject: DIY Transmission repair
How daunting is a transmission pull & repair for an automotive neophyte?
I am a reasonably capable tinkerer, water pumps, generators, etc are no
problem but I am by no means a gearhead.
Those in the know, should I now seek professional help for an unlinked
linkage and bad synchros or while away my winter hours in
Healey-induced grease-covered bliss?
Eric Wells
67 BJ8 in WNC
From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 09:28:50 -0500
Subject: Rebuilt shocks
Jack
From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 07:45:48 -0700
Subject: Z3 race
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 08 Oct 2003 09:34:40 -0600
Subject: Re: $90,000 BJ8?
Since I've owned my BJ8, and had the BMIHT certificate in hand, I've tried to
have the SGI register the vehicle to the date it was built. This is the age of
the vehicle (the anomalies that Stella67 suggests are few) not when BMC Canada
or
some dealership suggested it's age. By way of analogy, I'm sure if you bought a
chicken as a "fryer" and it was really an old "soup" chicken (one that produced
eggs for four years vs a one year old one) you would not be pleased. So I come
down close to what Reid has suggested, to paraphrase him , the year it was
built
is the age of the vehicle.
Kind regards
Ed
BJ8 Healeys wrote:
> Unlike our typical American experience, the "model year" of a BJ8 bears very
> little relationship with either the VIN or the year of manufacture. Judging
> by ample data in the BJ8 registry, cars with adjacent VINs and the same
> manufacturing date can be registered in "model years" two or three years
> apart. Except for very minor differences, BJ8s were just either Phase 1 or
> Phase 2, and the "model year" has almost no significance.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC USA
> From: M.E. & E.A. Driver
> To: HealeyRic2@aol.com
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Sent: Tuesday, October 07, 2003 6:05 PM
> Subject: Re: $90,000 BJ8?
>
> Hi Rick
>
> Well another interesting Healey with a questionable VIN - my BJ8 some 50
> odd numbers
> earlier than this one was built in late 1964 and sold here in Canada as a
> 1965. I find
> it very difficult to believe that BMC produced only 60 BJ8's between late
> fall 1964
> and January 1966 (or late 1965). This of course has nothing to do with the
> quality of
> the restoration but more with the integrity of the PO and possibly that of
> the
> restorer.
>
> Kind regards
> Ed
> Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
> '65 BJ8
> '89 Morgan 4/4
From "Alan Schultz" <alan at andysnet.net>
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 12:14:28 -0500
Subject: Re: Rebuilt shocks
I recommend World Wide Auto Parts in Madison, WI. Ask for Peter.
Alan Schultz
HBJ8L
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear@garverengineers.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Spridget List"
<spridgets@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 08, 2003 9:28 AM
Subject: Rebuilt shocks
> Hello all, I know this thread has gone around many times, but I'm asking
> for a non-list buddy who is restoring his BN2. Who is a good rebuilder
> of big Healey shocks?? I've had a troublesome experience with Apple so
> I can't recommend them. How about some other rebuilder?? How about new
> vs. rebuilt?? Thanks for your replies.
>
> Jack
From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 13:15:39 -0400
Subject: Shock absorber topping off
Or, does it matter?
Are there any preferences amongst list members for shock absorber hydraulic
oil types/brands?
It's been over 25 years since I fiddled with topping off a Healey's shocks,
so any input is much appreciated.
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
Amateur Radio AI2Q
http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
.-.-.
From "Dean" <dht at erols.com>
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 15:02:44 -0400
Subject: Shock absorber topping off
Dean
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 08 Oct 2003 13:03:17 -0600
Subject: Re: Rebuilt shocks
Go here for some excellent advice & where to get the best shocks;
http://hometown.aol.com/bgahc/myhomepage/index.html
Dave Russell
BN2
Brashear, Jack, N wrote:
> Hello all, I know this thread has gone around many times, but I'm asking
> for a non-list buddy who is restoring his BN2. Who is a good rebuilder
> of big Healey shocks?? I've had a troublesome experience with Apple so
> I can't recommend them. How about some other rebuilder?? How about new
> vs. rebuilt?? Thanks for your replies.
>
> Jack
From "insptwo" <insptwo at msn.com>
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 16:47:06 -0400
Subject: Year mfged against year on title
From "BJ8 Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 17:41:31 -0700
Subject: Re: Tachometer conversion
With the tachometer removed from the car, look on the rear of the case and you
will find four screws. Notice that two of the screws have holes cut out in
the case around their heads. DO NOT REMOVE THESE. The other two screws are
the ones that hold the internals of the tachometer to the case.
Remove the chrome bezel on the front of the tach by unscrewing it so that the
tabs on the bezel line up with the slots in the case. This may be difficult
to do if the rubber seals or sealant have glued the ring to the case. You can
try to pry the tabs open a bit.
Once the bezel is off, remove the glass face of the tach. Again, if the seals
or sealant have glued the glass in place, you might try wicking acetone
sparingly into the gap between glass and case to make it release. Use care
not to pry on the glass too much or it could break.
When the bezel and glass are off, remove the two screws on the back mentioned
above. Do this with the tach held face down in your hand, and the internals
should drop out into your hand. Use care not to touch or damage the face of
the tach or the needle.
Once the internals are released from the case, you should see that the spade
terminal on the back of the tach to which the green wire from the harness was
attached is soldered to one end of a resistor. This is the power input. The
ground is a green wire soldered to a rivet.
The theory of reversing the connections is: unsolder the green wire from the
rivet, unsolder the spade terminal from the resistor, reverse the connections
and resolder. In reality, I found the resistor lead so stiff that I had to
cut it and solder a jumper wire to it, then solder the other end of this wire
to the rivet. It was easy enough to solder the green wire for ground to the
cut end of the resistor.
Put the tach back together. There is a plastic adjustment screw on the back
of the internals that is used for tach adjustment with a flat blade
screwdriver. This adjustment is not accessible with the tach reassembled, so
I drilled a hole in the tach case in line with this adjustment screw to make
adjustment easier if necessary in the future. I covered the drilled hole with
a piece of tape to keep out the dust.
When you hook the tach up, you'll have to reverse the direction of the loop in
the white wire from the way it was before. I have a diagram that shows how to
do this if you need it. It involves leaving the existing loop in place on the
tach, cutting the white wire, then reconnecting it to effectively reverse the
loop. Since I had a new wiring harness, I just threaded it through the
plastic block on the tach opposite to what it was before, and then soldered on
the terminal, thus avoiding cutting my new harness wires. I found that the
loop should be about 3/4" in diameter for the tach to read accurately. In
all, it took about an hour to modify the tach for negative ground.
Good luck!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: Terence H. & Suzanne F. McCool
To: Healey
Sent: Tuesday, October 07, 2003 6:12 AM
Subject: Tachometer conversion
Hi
I've been off the list for awhile just getting back on. I searched the
archives but couldn't find what I'm looking for. A friend has a BJ8 and is
going to convert it from positive to neg ground. I remember reading about
doing something to change the tach. Could someone please send me that info
Thanks
Terry
100-M
From "Tracy Drummond" <bighealey at charter.net>
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 08 Oct 2003 17:46:40 -0400
Subject: Re:
Yep, probably need to remove the tunnel (on my BT7 with a
fibreglass tunnel that means removing the seats first).
Be sure to use the washer!! These tend to get wiped out
without the fibre washer.
Tracy
On Wed, 8 Oct 2003 15:02:44 -0400
"Dean" <dht@erols.com> wrote:
>Can someone give me an idea what is involved in replacing
>the angel drive for
>the speedometer for a BJ8. Do you have to remove the
>tunnel?
>
>Dean
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 17:26:15 -0500
Subject: Re: $90,000 BJ8?
From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 18:49:24 -0400
Subject: Re: $90,000 BJ8?
Gary R. Cox
Bradenton, FL
67' BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: <HealeyRic2@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 07, 2003 4:24 PM
Subject: $90,000 BJ8?
> Another one from Automobile Magazine, November 2003, p.123:
>
> RM Auctions, Monterey August 15-16, 2003
>
> 1966 Austin-Healey 3000 Mark 3 BJ8 Convertible. S/n HBJ8L29107. Ice blue
> over navy blue leather. Chrome wire wheels. Fully restored by a Healey
> specialist to a concours-winning standard. SOLD AT $90, 201. There were
two very
> determined bidders in the room for this one and the price soared far
beyond the
> expected $65,000. After the auction, the new owner was so happy to have
the
> car he wanted that the price became irrelevant.
>
> Boy, it seems like only yesterday that kind of money would get you a nice
> 100S!
>
> Expensive Healeying,
> Rick
From Douglas W Flagg <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 19:34:03 -0400
Subject: Re:BN4 Electrical Problem
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Oct 2003 01:44:28 +0100
Subject: The UK AHC Web Forum is back!
After an absence of several weeks the UK AHC Web Forum is back on line.
A change of server necessitated finding the time to re-hash the Forum
script - and time has been in short supply for me lately.
The bad news for some of you is that it is soon to become a 'Members
Only' area. We will judge whether the members feel this a good move, and
will react accordingly.
This list (autox) is a free service, but I know that majordomo has
requested donations at least a couple of times in the past. We need
membership subscriptions to keep our services going, so joining the UK
AHC is a way to keep your access open to the UK Web Forum.
--
Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
Webmaster for the UK's national Austin Healey Club at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 20:02:38 -0500
Subject: DIY Transmission repair
> Those in the know, should I now seek professional help for an unlinked
> linkage and bad synchros or while away my winter hours in
> Healey-induced grease-covered bliss?
>
> Eric Wells
> 67 BJ8 in WNC
>
Eric, anyone who talks about Healey induced grease covered bliss is beyond
professional help.
If you have a good manual and maybe access to a friend that has gearbox or
healey gearbox experience if things get dicey, I would say go for it.
Option two, pull gearbox yourself and take it or have it shipped to
competent shop, saves a lot on labor.
Happy Healying
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 18:22:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: DIY Transmission repair
It shouldn't be all that difficult except getting the
tranny out should be done with a lift of some sort - I
pulled mine out once and put it back in using a friend
and I for labor and it was a b**ch! I thought the two
of us would be enough because the tranny units don't
weigh that much... but in the confined spaces of a car
it was very hard to get back in particularly. If you
have a lift of some kind I could see it making the job
a bazillion times easier.
Once you have it out... rebuilding the tranny takes a
lot of care (lots of little parts), but at the end of
the day is a pretty straightforward mechanical job.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Eric Wells <ericasc@associatedprinting.biz> wrote:
> Question for the Healey masters -
>
> How daunting is a transmission pull & repair for an
> automotive neophyte?
> I am a reasonably capable tinkerer, water pumps,
> generators, etc are no
> problem but I am by no means a gearhead.
>
> Those in the know, should I now seek professional
> help for an unlinked
> linkage and bad synchros or while away my winter
> hours in
> Healey-induced grease-covered bliss?
>
> Eric Wells
> 67 BJ8 in WNC
From Joseph Smathers <healey27 at mindspring.com>
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 08 Oct 2003 22:41:07 -0400
Subject: No Healey Content - Virus question ??
Best regards, Joe
1955 100
1960 3000
From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 21:47:10 -0500
Subject: RE: The UK AHC Web Forum is back!
I am not sure that I can justify the "Rest of the World" #47.00 membership
rate ($78.24) when the only benefit that I would get being in the states is
the "RevCounter" and the forums. Has the club looked at any type of
"e-membership" with the possibility of an emailed "RevCounter" and forum
access only at a reduced rate. I think that one of the MG clubs (maybe
NAMGBA) does something like that.
Just a suggestion.
Patton
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Alan F Cross
Sent: Wednesday, October 08, 2003 7:44 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Cc: healeynutjk@yahoo.co.uk
Subject: The UK AHC Web Forum is back!
Dear Listers,
After an absence of several weeks the UK AHC Web Forum is back on line.
A change of server necessitated finding the time to re-hash the Forum
script - and time has been in short supply for me lately.
The bad news for some of you is that it is soon to become a 'Members
Only' area. We will judge whether the members feel this a good move, and
will react accordingly.
This list (autox) is a free service, but I know that majordomo has
requested donations at least a couple of times in the past. We need
membership subscriptions to keep our services going, so joining the UK
AHC is a way to keep your access open to the UK Web Forum.
--
Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
Webmaster for the UK's national Austin Healey Club at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
From "Greg Wilkinson" <gregwilkinson at adelphia.net>
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 20:21:54 -0700
Subject: seat belt bracket
Thanks Much,
Greg
67 BJ8
From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 23:37:03 EDT
Subject: Re: Distributor Rotors
From Dennis Currington <dc at datsuns.net>
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 08 Oct 2003 20:50:37 -0700
Subject: Road & Track photo
http://racerguy.com/Oops.gif
Anyone know the history of it?
Dennis
--
Dennis Currington
San Diego
(still boxes of parts)
http://www.racerguy.com
From GSFuqua1 at aol.com
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Oct 2003 00:17:16 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey Production By Year (was "Re: $90,000 BJ8?")
At any rate thanks!!!
Gary
From GSFuqua1 at aol.com
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Oct 2003 00:36:34 EDT
Subject: Re: $90,000 BJ8?
Gary Fuqua
From Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 08 Oct 2003 06:14:42 -0700
Subject: Re: Mounting chrome question
Do not overtighten the hood vent trim piece. Use nylocks and some
rubber washers. Overtightening results in three cute dimples that
cannot be removed with plastic or any other type of surgery. I would
not recommend using caulking.
Esko & Megan Cate wrote:
>Just about to mount the rest of the chrome on the BJ7, up front and on
>sides (door waste moulding, flash, air intake grill, air intake
>surround, grill and grill surround). Is it recommended to use caulk, or
>something like it, under the chrome pieces to help eliminate rattle? On
>an older door waste moulding that I have, there is a caulk strip on the
>inside, along the bottom. It is clear that the intent there was to
>reduce rattle and seal the lower edge. Is that recommended on other
>pieces as well? If so, what is the best material to use? Thanks in
>advance.
>
>Esko
>BJ7
From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Oct 2003 05:47:18 EDT
Subject: Re: DIY Transmission repair
From "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Oct 2003 06:08:54 -0400
Subject: Re: Z3 race
Dear Ken~
You have hit on a profound enigma. Until returning to the Healey fold, my
wife and I were devout German car lovers, having had during our 19-year
hiatus two bugs, a VW Eurovan and two Z-3's. For some reason, the German
engineers, geniuses in styling aesthetics and mechanic design, are
"somewha"t color-blind. The '93 Eurovan came in orange, Carribean turquoise,
and various shades of vomituse-inspired brown, gray and if I remember
correctly, a purple that . The only color that saved the sale to us was a
gorgeous deep blue metallic, which only came with the 7-passenger upgrade,
and was for reasons that cannot be fathomed, discontinued in the late '90's.
If you wanted the camper edition, you either had to look like a drug dealer
in stark black, or a band of migrant workers on holiday.
Even the Z-3 had color faults. The gorgeous sky blue that pulled us of the
highway into the showroom in '96 disappeared from the '99 catalogue --
unless you ordered an M3 buckboard. In its place was a puce metallic, enough
to make a decorator blush. Thankfully, the blue came back when our lease was
up, allowing us to get a 3.0, albeit with billous tan seats and otherwise
black interior.
Even Mercedes is not immune, with its who-shot-the-chicadee off-yellow . And
who can forget, assuming they don't want to, the pumpkin orange and nuclear
waste greens on Porsches and VW's from the '70's and '80's.
It's not that the German marketers can't get it right -- the conservative
silvers, dark blues, and even jet blacks are de rigeur in their home
markets -- I they just have American consumers pegged for wanting audacious
color.
Allen Miller '56 BN2/M
From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Oct 2003 11:22:20 +0100
Subject: Re: The UK AHC Web Forum is back!
Hi Patton,
Nice to hear from you. Yes, I can see your point, and we are certainly
open to new ideas. This is a first toe in the water in terms of
enhancing the web site in a Members Only area - we will be looking at
technical help and RevCounter content (even an archive) as well. But, as
usual, these things are done by enthusiasts with other commitments, so
it would take time and effort that might not be available.
Best regards ...
--
Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
Webmaster for the UK's national Austin Healey Club at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
From Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 09 Oct 2003 04:47:16 -0700
Subject: Re: No Healey Content - Virus question ??
You are doing the right thing by using a scanner / filter such as
Norton. The most prevalent viruses out there tend to be spread via
email. They will generally be an attachment that requires
the reader to open to activate the virus. Generally the virus will read
your Outlook address book then send the same virus to everyone in the
address book, sometimes changing the sender address sometimes not.
Just two words of wisdom 1 never open any attachment from an unknown
user. 2 Use some kind of virus protection. Note that most viruses are
files of the extension type *exe (executable),
*com (command/executable) , or *vbs (visual basic/executable).
Also if you use MS outlook as your email reader you are more vulnerable
than say Netscape or Eudora. (MS products are more vulnerable than UNIX)
These "script kiddies / hackers" rely upon MS weaknesses and user
gullibility to activate these viruses (some viruses are nasty some
benign). Also
most of the viruses are rewrites of tired old hacks using Visual Basic
(an easy to learn programming language) but once in a while a new one
with a nasty payload shows up.
Hope this helps. Mostly common sense.
Tracy CISSP
Joseph Smathers wrote:
> For the last two weeks I have been receiving 4 to 8 emails with
> virus's attached. With Norton, I have not been infected, but I can
> not figure out where they are coming from. All return address are not
> usable. Some emails appear to be from Microsoft and others from
> Norton. Any ideas??
>
> Best regards, Joe
>
> 1955 100
> 1960 3000
From Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 09 Oct 2003 04:53:05 -0700
Subject: Re: Z3 race
You absolutely crack me up !!!!!!
"you either had to look like a drug dealer
in stark black, or a band of migrant workers on holiday."
The new VWs seem to follow this same color choices.
Tracy
Allen C. Miller, Jr. wrote:
> "What are these Germans thinking is a sporty color??
>Ken Freese 65 BJ8"
>
>Dear Ken~
>
>You have hit on a profound enigma. Until returning to the Healey fold, my
>wife and I were devout German car lovers, having had during our 19-year
>hiatus two bugs, a VW Eurovan and two Z-3's. For some reason, the German
>engineers, geniuses in styling aesthetics and mechanic design, are
>"somewha"t color-blind. The '93 Eurovan came in orange, Carribean turquoise,
>and various shades of vomituse-inspired brown, gray and if I remember
>correctly, a purple that . The only color that saved the sale to us was a
>gorgeous deep blue metallic, which only came with the 7-passenger upgrade,
>and was for reasons that cannot be fathomed, discontinued in the late '90's.
>If you wanted the camper edition, you either had to look like a drug dealer
>in stark black, or a band of migrant workers on holiday.
>
>Even the Z-3 had color faults. The gorgeous sky blue that pulled us of the
>highway into the showroom in '96 disappeared from the '99 catalogue --
>unless you ordered an M3 buckboard. In its place was a puce metallic, enough
>to make a decorator blush. Thankfully, the blue came back when our lease was
>up, allowing us to get a 3.0, albeit with billous tan seats and otherwise
>black interior.
>
>Even Mercedes is not immune, with its who-shot-the-chicadee off-yellow . And
>who can forget, assuming they don't want to, the pumpkin orange and nuclear
>waste greens on Porsches and VW's from the '70's and '80's.
>
>It's not that the German marketers can't get it right -- the conservative
>silvers, dark blues, and even jet blacks are de rigeur in their home
>markets -- I they just have American consumers pegged for wanting audacious
>color.
>
>Allen Miller '56 BN2/M
>
>***
From "Alan Schultz" <alan at andysnet.net>
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Oct 2003 08:21:06 -0500
Subject: Re: seat belt bracket
Alan
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Wilkinson" <gregwilkinson@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 08, 2003 10:21 PM
Subject: seat belt bracket
> Hi All,
> I'm trying to track down the seat belt bracket that welds to the rear
wheel
> arch. The one I'm looking for is the round bracket with the single
threaded
> hole. The usual suspects only seem to carry the earlier version with the 2
> studs. Does anyone know who might carry the round bracket?
>
> Thanks Much,
> Greg
> 67 BJ8
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 09 Oct 2003 06:28:52 -0700
Subject: Doug in Virginia Beach
Terry
From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Oct 2003 07:39:35 -0700
Subject: RE: Road & Track photo
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Oct 2003 09:54:28 -0500
Subject: RE: Rebuilt shocks - Thanks for the help!!!
Jack
-----Original Message-----
From: Brashear, Jack, N
Sent: Wednesday, October 08, 2003 9:29 AM
To: Healey List; Spridget List
Subject: Rebuilt shocks
Hello all, I know this thread has gone around many times, but I'm asking
for a non-list buddy who is restoring his BN2. Who is a good rebuilder
of big Healey shocks?? I've had a troublesome experience with Apple so
I can't recommend them. How about some other rebuilder?? How about new
vs. rebuilt?? Thanks for your replies.
Jack
From James Sailer <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 09 Oct 2003 09:45:39 -0600
Subject: BJ8 Glass
I am the point of my restoration where I will be installing the windows and
windshield soon. My roll-up windows, while functional, have the scratches
from the use of improper "long screws" in the door pull. I can't bear to
put them on this car after doing everything else. Likewise, the windshiled
has wiper marks... So the question. Is all the glass out there about the
same from the normal vendors? Or is there some thats better etc.. Also,
are their any chains that will install the windshield folks have identified?
Am located in the U.S.
Thanks
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
93 Land Rover D110
2003 Cooper S
from people I did not know.
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Oct 2003 09:25:34 -0700
Subject: Re: No Healey Content - Virus question ??
As a precaution, now, even though I have anti-virus protection, if in doubt,
before opening anything, I send an e-mail and ask the sender if he sent me
the attachment. It may delay things but a little caution can prevent a lot
of headaches.
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tracy Drummond" <bighealey@charter.net>
To: "Joseph Smathers" <healey27@mindspring.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 09, 2003 4:47 AM
Subject: Re: No Healey Content - Virus question ??
> Joe,
>
> You are doing the right thing by using a scanner / filter such as
> Norton. The most prevalent viruses out there tend to be spread via
> email. They will generally be an attachment that requires
> the reader to open to activate the virus. Generally the virus will read
> your Outlook address book then send the same virus to everyone in the
> address book, sometimes changing the sender address sometimes not.
>
> Just two words of wisdom 1 never open any attachment from an unknown
> user. 2 Use some kind of virus protection. Note that most viruses are
> files of the extension type *exe (executable),
> *com (command/executable) , or *vbs (visual basic/executable).
>
> Also if you use MS outlook as your email reader you are more vulnerable
> than say Netscape or Eudora. (MS products are more vulnerable than UNIX)
>
> These "script kiddies / hackers" rely upon MS weaknesses and user
> gullibility to activate these viruses (some viruses are nasty some
> benign). Also
> most of the viruses are rewrites of tired old hacks using Visual Basic
> (an easy to learn programming language) but once in a while a new one
> with a nasty payload shows up.
>
> Hope this helps. Mostly common sense.
>
> Tracy CISSP
>
> Joseph Smathers wrote:
>
> > For the last two weeks I have been receiving 4 to 8 emails with
> > virus's attached. With Norton, I have not been infected, but I can
> > not figure out where they are coming from. All return address are not
> > usable. Some emails appear to be from Microsoft and others from
> > Norton. Any ideas??
> >
> > Best regards, Joe
> >
> > 1955 100
> > 1960 3000
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 09 Oct 2003 14:21:19 -0700
Subject: Shock Absorber Oil
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 09 Oct 2003 14:32:23 -0700
Subject: Re: DIY Transmission Repair
1) a block between the valve cover and the firewall to keep the engine
level--it's pretty near balanced on the front motor mounts.
2) Transmission Jack (Harbor Freight) to take the weight off the trans as
you slide it back. Helps aligning it to the input shaft on the way in, too.
3) Use old but sound fan belt around rear of trans to lift it up.
Combination of bell housing and fan belt makes a good carry.
4) Come-along attached to rafters helps, as do various pieces of wood to put
under the rear of the trans to slide it out.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Oct 2003 14:49:29 -0700
Subject: RE: Shock Absorber Oil
From "John Soderling" <jsoderling at ca.astound.net>
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Oct 2003 14:59:56 -0700
Subject: Rear End Gear Oil
From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Oct 2003 19:45:14 -0400
Subject: Re: DIY Transmission Repair
James Lea
Rockport Maine
62 BT7 II
From Douglas W Flagg <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Oct 2003 20:04:40 -0400
Subject: Re:Tonneau Cover
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 09 Oct 2003 19:00:24 -0600
Subject: Re: DIY Transmission Repair
Not unless you turn the car upside down. Way too much frame in the way.
Dave Russell
James Lea wrote:
> Listers. If you have a lift or a pit, is it possible to take it out by
> lowering it? JL
>
> James Lea
> Rockport Maine
> 62 BT7 II
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Oct 2003 18:36:13 -0700
Subject: Re:Tonneau Cover
John Snyder
" Is there a way to restore an otherwise perfectly good tonneau cover that
has shrunk over the years? Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug"
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 09 Oct 2003 19:57:37 -0600
Subject: Re: Tonneau Cover
It depends partly on whether it is canvas or plastic. In my
experience,not much chance with canvas. For that matter no real success
with plastic either. They tend to shrink from long exposure to sun. I do
think that canvas such as Sunfast lasts a lot longer before it shrinks.
I fought with a plastic one for quite a while. Wait for a good hot day
with lots of sun to warm things. Get some of the fasteners started &
pull/tug/lever each fastener into place. If you pull hard enough you may
get all of them fastened. The real down side, you will have to go
through this every time that you take it off. Shrink is permanent.
Dave Russell
Douglas W Flagg wrote:
> Is there a way to restore an otherwise perfectly good tonneau cover that
> has shrunk over the years? Thanks.
>
> Happy Healeying,
>
> Doug
From DrBerkowitz at aol.com
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Oct 2003 21:59:14 EDT
Subject: Transmission repair
From TBanks at LEVI.com
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2003 04:33:34 -0700
Subject: Auxiliary gauge positions
TIA,
Tom Banks
Belgium
'64 BJ8
From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2003 07:57:41 -0400
Subject: RE: Shock Absorber Oil
Don't know if it is the best or what, but I use hydraulic jack oil in mine.
From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2003 09:11:54 -0400
Subject: RE: Shock Absorber Oil
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of tom felts
Sent: 10-Oct-03 7:58 AM
To: Steve Gerow; healeys
Subject: RE: Shock Absorber Oil
> [Original Message]
> From: Steve Gerow <sgerow@singular.com>
> To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 10/9/03 5:21:36 PM
> Subject: Shock Absorber Oil
>
> Is there an oil recommendation for lever shocks? The manual says SAE
20/20.
> Would appreciate a recommendation--not sure I've seen 20/20.
> --
Don't know if it is the best or what, but I use hydraulic jack oil in
mine.
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2003 07:14:30 -0700
Subject: Re: Shock Absorber Oil
re:
"satisfactory substitute would be power steering oil which would be a little
better"
Can you name the brand and product? The "genuine" stuff is expensive.
Thanks,
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: "'healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 10, 2003 6:11 AM
Subject: RE: Shock Absorber Oil
> Hi Steve,
> We had the "genuine" Armstrong Shock Fluid analyzed by one of the oil
> company labs and they concluded that it was basic hydraulic oil and
> concluded that a satisfactory substitute would be power steering oil
> which would be a little better as it would include a small amount of
> "seal swell" additive. We have been using that ever since quite
> satisfactorily.
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
From Jon McLeroy <jfm at spyderinternet.com>
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2003 09:20:07 -0500
Subject: Re: Rear End Gear Oil
Per Penrite's Lubrication Recommendation sheet all Healeys, except the very
early, use Hypoid 80W/90.
Limited-slip is for differentials that are designated "Limited-slip" or
where both wheels have power at the same time.
I don't believe I would put it in you rear end. But would get a Hypoid
80W/90 with out the limited-slip additives.
If you would like to try Penrite please let me know.
I am sure one of the more knowledgeable gearheads out there can explain the
difference in "posi-track" and Limited-slip. I have it in my head they are
close to the same, but I could be wrong.
Let me know if I can help
Jon
Classic Auto Lubes
12803 CR 1222
Tyler, Tx 75709
Ph: 903-561-4858
Fax: 903-561-7177
Email: jfm@spyderinternet.com
www.classicautolubes.com
At 02:59 PM 10/9/03 -0700, you wrote:
>In preparation for replacing the gear oil in my AH rear end, I bought some
>Sta-Lube Hypoid SAE 80W90 Gear Oil. When I got home I noticed it says
>"Limited-Slip" Hypoid Gear Oil. I'm assuming this is O.K. for a Healey
>differential?
>Vrooom vrooom,
>John
--
This message has been scanned for viruses and
dangerous content by our MailScanner, and is
believed to be clean.
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2003 10:27:29 -0400
Subject: Re:Tonneau Cover
> Is there a way to restore an otherwise perfectly good tonneau cover that
> has shrunk over the years? Thanks.
>
> Happy Healeying,
>
> Doug
From "James Shope" <healeymanjim at JoiMail.com>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2003 08:03:18 -0700
Subject: tonneau cover
From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2003 11:18:42 -0400
Subject: RE: Shock Absorber Oil
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: 10-Oct-03 10:15 AM
To: 'healeys'
Subject: Re: Shock Absorber Oil
Michael,
re:
"satisfactory substitute would be power steering oil which would be a
little better"
Can you name the brand and product? The "genuine" stuff is expensive.
Thanks,
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: "'healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 10, 2003 6:11 AM
Subject: RE: Shock Absorber Oil
> Hi Steve,
> We had the "genuine" Armstrong Shock Fluid analyzed by one of the oil
> company labs and they concluded that it was basic hydraulic oil and
> concluded that a satisfactory substitute would be power steering oil
> which would be a little better as it would include a small amount of
> "seal swell" additive. We have been using that ever since quite
> satisfactorily.
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
From "Jim MacDonald" <clew65 at hotmail.com>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2003 15:28:16 +0000
Subject: shock oil
_________________________________________________________________
Need more e-mail storage? Get 10MB with Hotmail Extra Storage.
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2003 09:18:18 -0700
Subject: Re: Power Steering Oil for Shocks
From "Ron Fine Esq." <RonFineEsq at earthlink.net>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2003 10:33:15 -0700
Subject: Recommendation
From Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2003 10:47:23 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Jensen Healey title problems
---------------------------------
The New Yahoo! Shopping - with improved product search
From m.brouillette at comcast.net
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2003 18:26:07 +0000
Subject: Re: Jensen Healey title problems
Mike Brouillette
59 BT7
> About a month ago I came across a classified ad for a 1974 Jensen Healey with
>a
> Ford 302 engine. I immediately called a friend who already owns a Jensen
>Healey
> and was looking for a second one to convert to Ford 302 power.
> My friend called the seller and liked what he heard so they made arrangements
>to
> meet in Ft. Worth, TX as that was the midway point for both of them. The
>seller
> lives in Tulsa, OK and my friend lives in Houston. My friend paid for the car
> but the seller did not give him the title instead he told him that the title
>was
> held by a dealer and that he would transfer the title and have it mailed to
>him.
> My friend believed him. It has now been over a month and no title has been
> received even after several phone calls to the seller.
> My friend contacted the state of Oklahoma and they say they have no record of
> the car been registerd there, so no Oklahoma title. The car has a California
> emissions inspection sticker on the driver's door jam though. The seller did
>say
> that he bought the car in California.
> Does anyone have any suggestions on how to get title to this car? Are
> certificates available for Jensen Healeys like the ones from the Heritage
>Trust
> for Austin Healeys?
> The moral of the story is NO TITLE NO $.
> Thanks for listening
> Jorge
> 1965 BJ8
From GSFuqua1 at aol.com
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2003 15:44:52 EDT
Subject: Re: Jensen Healey title problems
Having lived in Texas I can tell you Texas WILL require a title regardless of
age. I recently sold a New Hampshire car (no title due to their state law)
to a person in Texas. We thought initially it would be no problem as we had
bill of sales, tax receipts, etc., but the initial application was turned down.
In the end all we had to do was get the Texas Highway Patrol to "Inspect" the
car, run the VIN, fill out a form and then go reapply. Presto,,,,Texas title
issued.
I live in Branson, MO....i.e. not far from Tulsa and I am a licensed Missouri
Dealer who has happened to live many years in Tulsa and Texas. If I can help
just let me know.
Best regards and good luck!!!
Gary Fuqua
Branson, MO
BN2 & BJ8
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2003 16:53:17 -0500
Subject: Re: Auxiliary gauge positions
in all seriousness, i have seen a very nice 3 guage cluster mounted in the
space where the radio speaker grille normally goes. you could relocate the
radio speaker, still keeping your radio and modify the former speaker space for
your new guages.you'll have to do some tin and vinyl work on your console. i
found the voltmeter and vacuum guage at holden's in the uk. the ammeter was
purchased nos from doug flagg in va.
happy healeying,
jerry
TBanks@LEVI.com wrote:
>
> So it's about time to think about this year's winter projects for the BJ8.
> How about some aux gauges - voltmeter, ammeter, maybe a vacuum gauge. But
> where to mount them? I don't want to cut holes in the lovely wooden dash I
> installed last winter. And the centre console seems pretty full seeing as I
> have a period Phillips radio installed. Long legs restrict the space under
> the drivers dash. Where have listers installed their extra gauges? Do you
> have pictures?
>
> TIA,
> Tom Banks
> Belgium
> '64 BJ8
>
> ***
From "Rick Neves &7&" <Rick at genomictechnologies.com>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2003 21:31:24 -0400
Subject: I got grease in My Driveshaft!
As part of the restoration of my '56 BN-2 I restored my drive shaft about six
months ago. I just got around to reading the manual on this part and it says
to use oil and not grease.
Of course I see a grease fitting and I put in grease. I love that little gun!
I've never even seen a gun that can inject oil into one of these fittings.
So I have two questions.
What's the best way to get the grease out?
Where can I get a oil gun?
Should I just fashion one out of a length of hose and a syringe.
Sincerely
Rick Neves
'56 BN-2
&7&
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
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From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 03 Oct 2003 22:37:55 -0700
Subject: Re: DIY Transmission Repair
At 07:45 PM 10/9/03 -0400, James Lea wrote:
>Listers. If you have a lift or a pit, is it possible to take it out by
>lowering it? JL
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2003 21:02:33 -0600
Subject: Re: I got grease in My Driveshaft!
If you read the manual closely the same EP 140 oil is recommended for
all of the chassis & suspension fittings also.
Since I don't see much difference between old British & somewhat newer
suspension & U joint construction I just use standard chassis grease in
all fittings. To my knowledge no harm has come to the cars that I have
used grease in. I think that grease is less likely to leak out & will
resist water intrusion better. If there is really a good technical
reason to use oil I will be interested to hear it.
With most grease guns you can remove the grease & pour oil in if you
wish. I guess that the original tool kit oil guns would do the job but
the end fitting doesn't lock on & is harder to use.
Dave Russell
BN2
Rick Neves wrote:
> Ok So this is what happens when you don't read the service manual.
>
> As part of the restoration of my '56 BN-2 I restored my drive shaft about six
> months ago. I just got around to reading the manual on this part and it says
> to use oil and not grease.
>
> Of course I see a grease fitting and I put in grease. I love that little gun!
>
> I've never even seen a gun that can inject oil into one of these fittings.
>
> So I have two questions.
>
> What's the best way to get the grease out?
> Where can I get a oil gun?
>
> Should I just fashion one out of a length of hose and a syringe.
>
>
> Sincerely
>
> Rick Neves
> '56 BN-2
From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2003 23:44:29 -0500
Subject: Re: I got grease in My Driveshaft!
This is my own personal theory/experience, others may have a different view.
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
> Rick,
>
> If you read the manual closely the same EP 140 oil is recommended for
> all of the chassis & suspension fittings also.
>
> Since I don't see much difference between old British & somewhat newer
> suspension & U joint construction I just use standard chassis grease in
> all fittings. To my knowledge no harm has come to the cars that I have
> used grease in. I think that grease is less likely to leak out & will
> resist water intrusion better. If there is really a good technical
> reason to use oil I will be interested to hear it.
>
> With most grease guns you can remove the grease & pour oil in if you
> wish. I guess that the original tool kit oil guns would do the job but
> the end fitting doesn't lock on & is harder to use.
>
> Dave Russell
> BN2
From "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2003 23:09:19 +0200
Subject: Re: Re:Tonneau Cover
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2003 06:12:21 -0500
Subject: Re: DIY Transmission Repair
From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2003 11:32:25 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Winter Storage
This is the procedure I have used to winterizing my Healey. It is a '62 3000
MkII tricarb which I
have finally been able to get on the road after two years; long story. My
garage is detached
from my home and has open eves and no heat. I am located in southern Ontario,
Canada.
The steps I take are quite brief.
- clean car, top fluids, and ensure a full tank of gas.
- obtain large cardboard box from local appliance dealer and put it on garage
floor. This
absorbes both moisture coming up through the cement floor and any oil dripping
from the car.
- put car, with hardtop on & windows open, on 4 axle jacks [on 1 foot square
pieces of plywood]
placed under the frame with blocks of wood between the axle jack & frame. The
wheels are then
removed for a good cleaning and storage in the basement.
- sprinkle mothballs around and under car and a few on the rubber mats inside
the car. Also, we
have a house cat that seems to shed a lot of hair - I collect this hair, put it
in small, cloth
bags and place them around the car on the floor. This procedure seems to keep
all the little
folk at bay.
- cover car with loose, breathable, car-cover.
- place large fan at rear of car and turn on medium to keep air circulating
around car.
- about once per month over the winter, I head out to the garage, open up the
garage door
[usually on a bright, sunny day] and start the car up. [I have a stainless
steel exhaust so
condensation is less of a concern.] I let the car heat up and run it through
the gears carefully
too keep everything working and lubricated. This also provides an opportunity
to dream of
gorgeous spring/summer/fall days and country drives.
- as a rule, I take the car off the road when the first salt hits the pavement
[usually due to
black ice]. It is put back on the road after about the third good rain in the
spring. With this
rule, I usually get to drive my toy for 7 to 8 months of the year.
And that's it. Good luck Seth.
--Scott Morris ['62 3000 MkII BT7 tricarb-driver; '60 3000 MkI BN7 -project]
Simcoe, Ontario, Canada
On September 23, 2003, "Seth" <Slvrbulit2@aol.com> wrote: << Anyone have an
idea how to keep mice
out of vehicles that are being stored for the winter in the northeast? I have
used moth balls,
dryer sheets, also mouse traps don't work very well for me. Any suggestions? >>
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2003 11:58:47 EDT
Subject: Re: Winter Storage
From "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino at ripnet.com>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2003 12:43:20 -0400
Subject: speakers
carl
BN-$(L) sorry that should be BN-4(L) although my wife wouldn't agree.
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2003 09:22:50 -0700
Subject: Re: Winter Storage
1. Open garage door
2. Pull Healey into garage
3. Close garage door
Sorry (couldn't resist).
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 11, 2003 8:32 AM
Subject: Winter Storage
> Good morning Seth;
>
> This is the procedure I have used to winterizing my Healey. It is a '62 3000
>MkII tricarb which I
> have finally been able to get on the road after two years; long story. My
>garage is detached
> from my home and has open eves and no heat. I am located in southern
>Ontario, Canada.
>
> The steps I take are quite brief.
>
> - clean car, top fluids, and ensure a full tank of gas.
>
> - obtain large cardboard box from local appliance dealer and put it on
>garage floor. This
> absorbes both moisture coming up through the cement floor and any oil
>dripping from the car.
>
> - put car, with hardtop on & windows open, on 4 axle jacks [on 1 foot square
>pieces of plywood]
> placed under the frame with blocks of wood between the axle jack & frame.
>The wheels are then
> removed for a good cleaning and storage in the basement.
>
> - sprinkle mothballs around and under car and a few on the rubber mats
>inside the car. Also, we
> have a house cat that seems to shed a lot of hair - I collect this hair, put
>it in small, cloth
> bags and place them around the car on the floor. This procedure seems to
>keep all the little
> folk at bay.
>
> - cover car with loose, breathable, car-cover.
>
> - place large fan at rear of car and turn on medium to keep air circulating
>around car.
>
> - about once per month over the winter, I head out to the garage, open up
>the garage door
> [usually on a bright, sunny day] and start the car up. [I have a stainless
>steel exhaust so
> condensation is less of a concern.] I let the car heat up and run it through
>the gears carefully
> too keep everything working and lubricated. This also provides an
>opportunity to dream of
> gorgeous spring/summer/fall days and country drives.
>
> - as a rule, I take the car off the road when the first salt hits the
>pavement [usually due to
> black ice]. It is put back on the road after about the third good rain in
>the spring. With this
> rule, I usually get to drive my toy for 7 to 8 months of the year.
>
> And that's it. Good luck Seth.
>
> --Scott Morris ['62 3000 MkII BT7 tricarb-driver; '60 3000 MkI BN7 -project]
> Simcoe, Ontario, Canada
>
> On September 23, 2003, "Seth" <Slvrbulit2@aol.com> wrote: << Anyone have an
>idea how to keep mice
> out of vehicles that are being stored for the winter in the northeast? I
>have used moth balls,
> dryer sheets, also mouse traps don't work very well for me. Any suggestions?
>>>
>
>
> =====
> J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
From bn1 at pacbell.net
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2003 10:14:23 -0700
Subject: Re: Winter Storage
Before you flame me from jealousy, remember our new Govenator drives a Hummer
not a
Healey!
Bill Barnett
Santa Ana, CA
'53 BN1 w/'54 M kit
"J. Scott Morris" wrote:
> Good morning Seth;
>
> This is the procedure I have used to winterizing my Healey. It is a '62 3000
>MkII tricarb which I
> have finally been able to get on the road after two years; long story. My
>garage is detached
> from my home and has open eves and no heat. I am located in southern
>Ontario, Canada.
>
> The steps I take are quite brief.
>
> - clean car, top fluids, and ensure a full tank of gas.
>
> - obtain large cardboard box from local appliance dealer and put it on
>garage floor. This
> absorbes both moisture coming up through the cement floor and any oil
>dripping from the car.
>
> - put car, with hardtop on & windows open, on 4 axle jacks [on 1 foot square
>pieces of plywood]
> placed under the frame with blocks of wood between the axle jack & frame.
>The wheels are then
> removed for a good cleaning and storage in the basement.
>
> - sprinkle mothballs around and under car and a few on the rubber mats
>inside the car. Also, we
> have a house cat that seems to shed a lot of hair - I collect this hair, put
>it in small, cloth
> bags and place them around the car on the floor. This procedure seems to
>keep all the little
> folk at bay.
>
> - cover car with loose, breathable, car-cover.
>
> - place large fan at rear of car and turn on medium to keep air circulating
>around car.
>
> - about once per month over the winter, I head out to the garage, open up
>the garage door
> [usually on a bright, sunny day] and start the car up. [I have a stainless
>steel exhaust so
> condensation is less of a concern.] I let the car heat up and run it through
>the gears carefully
> too keep everything working and lubricated. This also provides an
>opportunity to dream of
> gorgeous spring/summer/fall days and country drives.
>
> - as a rule, I take the car off the road when the first salt hits the
>pavement [usually due to
> black ice]. It is put back on the road after about the third good rain in
>the spring. With this
> rule, I usually get to drive my toy for 7 to 8 months of the year.
>
> And that's it. Good luck Seth.
>
> --Scott Morris ['62 3000 MkII BT7 tricarb-driver; '60 3000 MkI BN7 -project]
> Simcoe, Ontario, Canada
>
> On September 23, 2003, "Seth" <Slvrbulit2@aol.com> wrote: << Anyone have an
>idea how to keep mice
> out of vehicles that are being stored for the winter in the northeast? I
>have used moth balls,
> dryer sheets, also mouse traps don't work very well for me. Any suggestions?
>>>
>
> =====
> J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
From Douglas W Flagg <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2003 14:10:58 -0400
Subject: Re:Old Radios
Regards,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2003 14:57:32 EDT
Subject: Re: Kilmartin Sheetmetal
From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2003 15:01:13 -0400
Subject: Re: Old Radios
Doug --
You probably already know this, but just for the record, remember that if your
car is positive ground you will need either
- a positive ground radio, or
- complete isolation of the radio chassis from automobile ground so you can
hook the chassis to "hot" and the power lead to ground, or
- a polarity inverter. My BJ8 had one of those installed by the dealer, and I
didn't like it much. It would drop out momentarily every time there was an
electrical system pulse, like the brake lights coming on. :-(
--
John Miller
TOO BAD YOU CAN'T BUY a voodoo globe so that you could make the earth spin
real fast and freak everybody out.
-Jack Handley, The New Mexican, 1988.
From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2003 17:49:23 -0400
Subject: Fantastic weather in Maine
Saw a white MGA and a red MG-TD during my tour. No other Healeys, not even a
Sprite.
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
Amateur Radio AI2Q
http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
.-.-.
From "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2003 17:01:56 -0400
Subject: Re: Winter Storage
> Winter storage--"Kollee-FOR-nya" (nee California)--style:
>
> 1. Open garage door
> 2. Pull Healey into garage
> 3. Close garage door
>
>
>
> Sorry (couldn't resist).
>
> bs
From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 19:36:39 -0500
Subject: Re: Fantastic weather in Maine
From "Ron Davies" <rdavies1 at cox.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2003 16:40:18 -0700
Subject: RE: Winter Storage
From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 20:15:24 -0500
Subject: Re: Winter Storage
James Lea
Rockport Maine
62 BT7 II
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2003 19:18:55 -0500
Subject: Re: Winter Storage
From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2003 20:32:10 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Winter Storage
I've never noticed any trouble with the rubber mats holding moisture; but I'll
check this winter.
Regarding the battery, you are correct; I missed that step. It gets stored in
the basement on a
wooden bench and when I periodically go out to start the car, I have to take
the battery out with
me. I also test and charge it about twice over the winter months.
--Scott
--- CAWS52803@aol.com wrote: << Well, that sure is a complete list! The only
other things I
would add is to remove the rubber floor mats as they may hold moisture. I have
heard of members
putting newspaper on the engine as it will absorb moisture too. How about
removing the battery or
periodical charges? Rudy Streng BN4 Lenoir, NC formerly from Connecticut >>
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2003 21:54:07 -0500
Subject: Re: Winter Storage
If you are simply storing for a few months I really don't think eleborate
steps are necessary, I unhook the battery and that is about it. I am going
on 12 or 13 years of storing my british cars in the winter (before that
drove them year round) with no storage related problems.
Happy Healying
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2003 00:40:50 EDT
Subject: Re: Kilmartin Sheetmetal
"Shipping charges will apply if out side of the continental United States"
From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2003 00:50:06 EDT
Subject: Re: Kilmartin found - thanks
From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2003 01:03:52 EDT
Subject: Re: Winter Storage
From Charlie Frazer <cfrazer at ballmer.uoregon.edu>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2003 01:10:11 -0700
Subject: BJ8-General
I'm going to spend a lot of money on this restoration. Who should I look to
for parts, beyond Moss Motors?
Is it possible to find a replacement oil pan other than the $400 aluminum
alternative offered by Moss?
Who supplies the the best A-H interior kits?
I'm not new to British cars, I have an MGB and a TR-6, but I haven't redone
a big Healey.
I'd be grateful for any general advice anyone has on restoring an 1996 A-H
BJJ-8.
Thank you for your suggestions and advice.
Charlie
From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2003 02:15:02 -0600
Subject: Re: Winter Storage
Bill Lawrence
James Lea wrote:
> It's a good thing we don't all like the same thing or the world would
> be very crowded someplace. 8^)
> James Lea
> Rockport Maine
> 62 BT7 II
From "Classic-Car-World Ltd" <enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2003 09:55:56 +0100
Subject: Re: BJ8-General
Kindest regards
Tom
Tom McCay
Classic-Car-World Ltd
Tel: 01522 888178
Fax: 0870 7059115
E-mail: enquiries@classic-car-world.com
URL: http://www.classic-car-world.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie Frazer" <cfrazer@ballmer.uoregon.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2003 9:10 AM
Subject: BJ8-General
> Hello,
> I'm new to the list, and I apologize if I'm raising questions that are
> redundant or obvious, but I'd be grateful for your advice.
> I recently bought a BJ8, a car I wasn't smart enough to keep when I owned
> one in 1968. The car I bought is in Oregon, rust-free, but stored 10
years
> and in need of rehabilitation and paint. The mechanicals seem to be OK.
>
> I'm going to spend a lot of money on this restoration. Who should I look
to
> for parts, beyond Moss Motors?
>
> Is it possible to find a replacement oil pan other than the $400 aluminum
> alternative offered by Moss?
>
> Who supplies the the best A-H interior kits?
>
> I'm not new to British cars, I have an MGB and a TR-6, but I haven't
redone
> a big Healey.
>
> I'd be grateful for any general advice anyone has on restoring an 1996 A-H
> BJJ-8.
> Thank you for your suggestions and advice.
> Charlie
From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2003 06:43:57 EDT
Subject: Winter Storage & access to the sea
> They say something like 90% of the people live within 50 miles of a
> seacoast.
> Sure leaves the rest of us a lot of open roads.
>
> Bill Lawrence
>
If I remember correctly, none of us over here CAN live more than 60 miles
from the sea. Life on an island!
I try to keep the Healey out of the water.
Simon, Devon, UK.
From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2003 08:51:17 -0400
Subject: Re: Winter Storage
Cheers
tom
>
> Good evening Rudy;
>
> I've never noticed any trouble with the rubber mats holding moisture; but
I'll check this winter.
>
> Regarding the battery, you are correct; I missed that step. It gets
stored in the basement on a
> wooden bench and when I periodically go out to start the car, I have to
take the battery out with
> me. I also test and charge it about twice over the winter months.
>
> --Scott
>
> --- CAWS52803@aol.com wrote: << Well, that sure is a complete list! The
only other things I
> would add is to remove the rubber floor mats as they may hold moisture.
I have heard of members
> putting newspaper on the engine as it will absorb moisture too. How
about removing the battery or
> periodical charges? Rudy Streng BN4 Lenoir, NC formerly from Connecticut
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2003 09:40:40 -0400
Subject: Re: Winter Storage
Subject: Re: Winter Storage
> FWIW, I live in near Pittsburgh, Pa., and all I do is pull into the garage
> as always. Do not remove anything, don't cover the car---and, when there
> is no salt, snow or ice on the road, take it out and run it. I wonder how
> people who "store" theirs determine when the storage period is. Do you
> just pick dates and that's is? What about those occasional great driving
> days? The weather determines when mine stays in or goes out.
>
> Cheers
> tom
From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2003 10:39:19 -0400
Subject: Re: Old Radios
> If I ignore it and close the window, your message comes up - in English.
>
> What is that all about???
Thank you for clearing something up that Charley had written me about and I
couldn't figure out -- I thought he had received a virus from somewhere.
Sorry, Charley, that I was barking up the wrong tree.
I've got my PC set up to be able to enter Japanese text, and the encoding on
that message -- which is supposed to be automatic -- must have flipped over
to that side.
I'm copying this to the list to explain to all what happened, and also to
check that the encoding defaults to English. Len, please drop me another
email to let me know.
Best regards,
--
John Miller
Some people have a great ambition: to build something
that will last, at least until they've finished building it.
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2003 11:03:07 EDT
Subject: My idea of a country club
www.clubmotorsports.com
Not a golfer in sight!
Rick
From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2003 10:09:28 -0500
Subject: RE: Winter Storage
and falls are gorgeous. Spring? What is that? Right now the trees are bright
orange, red and yellow. Also, since we are at 45 degree N latitude we get a
great deal of sunlight: Summer solstice: 5:00am sunrise and 9:00pm sunset 75-85
degree temps. This gives us many more daylight driving hours,...sorry Lucas. I
can drive my Healey or Cobra to work 25 miles away in the country on deserted
paved country roads from April until early December. There are few other cars,
fewer cops and not one gravel road in the county here. I work outside all day
and look forward to the end of the day when I can climb into a top-down sports
car and take the twisty "long-route" home,...stopping at a small store to pick
up a six of Wisconsin micro-brew, and another to pick up some fresh salmon for
the grill, and a third to pick up some fresh cheese curds. However, one must
be very careful driving during the fall for deer, (hooved rats).
One can buy a 3 BR nice house here (with a two-car garage of course) for
$80,000-$100,000. The taxes on such a house are about $1200-$1800/year. The
nice town 30 miles south of mine which is not as touristy has houses for about
1/2 as much. Note: Less money for house = more money for cars!
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
63 BJ-7, 66 427 Cobra replica
Sturgeon Bay, WI
Quoting Ron Davies <rdavies1@cox.net>:
> I just had to say how sorry I am for those of you outside the sunbelt.
> I'm not being facetious. Reading about putting away the Healey for the
> winter is just awful. How can you guys stand it?
> SoCal is currently 83 degrees CAVU. Mice, salt on the road, snow, gad!
> We are so spoiled here that our biggest worry is rain five times a year and
> cooking in the cockpit in the summer.
> And now we don't have Gov GrayOut any longer and an initiative is underway
> to repeal the terrorist driver's license program.
> Still, we don't have seasons. Palm trees are green year-round.
> To make you all feels better, someone just told me that the median price of
> a CA home was $449,000. Probably 3 bedrooms no yard.
> Ron
> 67 BJ8
From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2003 11:37:32 -0400
Subject: Re: My idea of a country club
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: <HealeyRic2@aol.com>
To: <modifiedhealeys@yahoogroups.com>; <spridgets@autox.team.net>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2003 11:03 AM
Subject: My idea of a country club
| What a great idea for a country club for car guys:
|
| www.clubmotorsports.com
|
| Not a golfer in sight!
|
| Rick
|
|
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2003 10:06:40 -0600
Subject: Re: Winter Storage
Out here on the Canadian Prairie weather regulates when I store my Healey and
Morgan, we can have snow stay as early as mid October and leave as late as late
April. From late October through early April, over night temperatures can range
from 2C at the edges of winter to -40C at the depth of winter. For the last
four years driving season for me has been April 10-12 to November 8th at the
latest. Like Scott, I wait until the streets are dry, here salt (usually from
in the form of KCl (from the potash mines) is applied liberally at
intersections, and rarely on stretches of highways. But even there we try to
avoid it's impact.
As to storage, humidity is not a problem except for a day or two during spring
melt, so I follow many of Scott's suggestions, with the odd difference, the
battery is left in the car except the leads are taken off and the posts cleaned.
The cars sit on a half inch of card board rather than jacking up the corners.
Coolant is good to -40C, cars are cleaned, polished, and covered. Although I
must say I like Bob Spidell's approach -wink!
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
tom felts wrote:
> FWIW, I live in near Pittsburgh, Pa., and all I do is pull into the garage
> as always. Do not remove anything, don't cover the car---and, when there
> is no salt, snow or ice on the road, take it out and run it. I wonder how
> people who "store" theirs determine when the storage period is. Do you
> just pick dates and that's is? What about those occasional great driving
> days? The weather determines when mine stays in or goes out.
>
> Cheers
> tom
>
> >
> > Good evening Rudy;
> >
> > I've never noticed any trouble with the rubber mats holding moisture; but
> I'll check this winter.
> >
> > Regarding the battery, you are correct; I missed that step. It gets
> stored in the basement on a
> > wooden bench and when I periodically go out to start the car, I have to
> take the battery out with
> > me. I also test and charge it about twice over the winter months.
> >
> > --Scott
> >
> > --- CAWS52803@aol.com wrote: << Well, that sure is a complete list! The
> only other things I
> > would add is to remove the rubber floor mats as they may hold moisture.
> I have heard of members
> > putting newspaper on the engine as it will absorb moisture too. How
> about removing the battery or
> > periodical charges? Rudy Streng BN4 Lenoir, NC formerly from Connecticut
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2003 13:45:42 -0500
Subject: Re: Winter Storage
From 62BT7 <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2003 20:13:53 +0100
Subject: Fw:eager to see you
From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2003 12:31:04 -0700
Subject: Re: Old Radios
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
To: "To:" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2003 7:39 AM
Subject: Re: Old Radios
> On Sunday, October 12, 2003 00:26, Marge and/or Len wrote:
> > John: When I land on your e-mail I get a 'Language pack installation'
> > window. It says, "To display language characters correctly you need to
> > install the following language pack: Japanese".
>
> > If I ignore it and close the window, your message comes up - in English.
> >
> > What is that all about???
>
> Thank you for clearing something up that Charley had written me about and
I
> couldn't figure out -- I thought he had received a virus from somewhere.
> Sorry, Charley, that I was barking up the wrong tree.
>
> I've got my PC set up to be able to enter Japanese text, and the encoding
on
> that message -- which is supposed to be automatic -- must have flipped
over
> to that side.
>
> I'm copying this to the list to explain to all what happened, and also to
> check that the encoding defaults to English. Len, please drop me another
> email to let me know.
>
> Best regards,
> --
> John Miller
>
> Some people have a great ambition: to build something
> that will last, at least until they've finished building it.
From "Bruce Starke" <bstarke at redshift.bc.ca>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2003 16:26:43 -0600
Subject: radiator recore--Calgary Alberta
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2003 17:15:38 -0700
Subject: Re: BJ8-General
http://www.healeyhaven.com/
http://www.victoriabritish.com/
http://www.angloparts.be/site/home/SiteHome.po?
http://www.cape-international.com/home.htm
http://fp.bighealey.f9.co.uk/
http://www.britishcarspecialists.com/
http://www.britishmiles.com/
http://www.burlen.co.uk/
http://www.bighealey.co.uk/
http://www.dmdaustralia.com.au/
http://www.europaspares.com/
http://www.hendrixwirewheel.com/
http://www.heritagetrim.com/
http://www.macgregorukcarparts.com/
http://home.att.net/~putzkes_fahrspass/
http://www.sumidel.com/
http://www.thebpc.com/
http://www.lbcarco.com/
http://www.ukhealey.co.uk/
http://www.mailbag.com/users/nosimport/
http://www.vintageautomotive.com/
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie Frazer" <cfrazer@ballmer.uoregon.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2003 1:10 AM
Subject: BJ8-General
> Hello,
> I'm new to the list, and I apologize if I'm raising questions that are
> redundant or obvious, but I'd be grateful for your advice.
> I recently bought a BJ8, a car I wasn't smart enough to keep when I owned
> one in 1968. The car I bought is in Oregon, rust-free, but stored 10 years
> and in need of rehabilitation and paint. The mechanicals seem to be OK.
>
> I'm going to spend a lot of money on this restoration. Who should I look to
> for parts, beyond Moss Motors?
>
> Is it possible to find a replacement oil pan other than the $400 aluminum
> alternative offered by Moss?
>
> Who supplies the the best A-H interior kits?
>
> I'm not new to British cars, I have an MGB and a TR-6, but I haven't redone
> a big Healey.
>
> I'd be grateful for any general advice anyone has on restoring an 1996 A-H
> BJJ-8.
> Thank you for your suggestions and advice.
> Charlie
From "Rick" <webmasterrick at comcast.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2003 19:34:01 -0500
Subject: Re: west coast MGA nuts help!
Kevin:
Ed says," hope you don't mind having the above "sent" to a couple of other
"folks"<G>"
<<Hi there,
my name is Kevin RIchards,
my wife and I are coming out to the west coast for a brief vacation (I am
playing vacation parasite on a work trip my wife is taking to a conference
in
San Francisco)
We plan to drive to Monterrey (hope I spelled that correctly).
We were hoping that before we go, we could get a list of possible cool
brit-car shops, museums, shows, swapmeets, etc that may be going on next
weekend.
And of course, if anyone just wants to meet up to show us their MG or brit
car
collection, we would sure like to meet you.
We are planning on hopefully renting a convertible so we can properly enjoy
the driving along the coast....
any suggestions of where to go for good rates/good cars?
thanks
Kevin>>
Have a GREAT trip and be SURE (no matter WHAT you drive) to DO the Seventeen
Mile Drive!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
AND, stop in Carmel Downtown!!! Can you say "Play Misty for Me"???
AND keep going south to visit Big Sur!!!!
You will NEVER, I repeat NEVER, forget it!!!!
Rick
WebmasterRick
www.justbrits.com
From "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine at hotmail.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2003 20:56:57 -0400
Subject: FOR SALE: Tecalemit G.C. 3020 Grease Gun
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2436382151
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
_________________________________________________________________
Help protect your PC. Get a FREE computer virus scan online from McAfee.
http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963
From Douglas W Flagg <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2003 21:17:09 -0400
Subject: Re:100-4 Gas Cap
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
From Dave Carpenter <d.carpenter7 at verizon.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2003 22:12:48 -0400
Subject: Re: shock oil
Dave
67-BJ8
From "Mike Brouillette" <m.brouillette at comcast.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2003 22:13:32 -0400
Subject: RE: FOR SALE: Tecalemit G.C. 3020 Grease Gun
Is this being sold by you or the club? The reason I'm asking is I
see www.healey.org in the ad.
Mike Brouillette
59 BT7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Reid Trummel
Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2003 8:57 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net; spridgets@autox.team.net
Subject: FOR SALE: Tecalemit G.C. 3020 Grease Gun
For anyone who may need an original Tecalemit grease gun, model number
G.C.3020, for the tool kit of their 100-6, early 3000, or Bugeye, you might
be interested in:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2436382151
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
_________________________________________________________________
Help protect your PC. Get a FREE computer virus scan online from McAfee.
http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2003 21:39:21 -0500
Subject: King Pin Job, Results(long)
Here are my results from my king pin restoring project:
- Hunted for a reasonable price to have swivle axles rebuilt. = " VONS" in
South Carolina.
- They advertised $85.00 on his web sight for "pressing out old bushings,
install new ones and ream to fit". EXCESSIVE dirt, rust,or frozen parts
will be cause for extra charges".
- Conversation on the phone with Von indicated that they also cleaned them
and painted them for the same price, $85.00.
- I sent them my own Qinton/Hazel kin pins with my spindles, so no extra
charge for the kin pins themselves.
- I had one kin pin that was frozen to swivel , and the other one I was able
to dissasemble before I sent them for rebuild.
- The over all condition of both units was pretty ordinary after being on
the car for so many years. Of course dirty, and some rust but what kin pins
aren't after that many years.
- After about one week I was contacted for the FIRST TIME stating that they
were finished and ready for return. Good turn around time but the price was
a surprise to me.
- $239.00 ??????? What happened to $85.00 was my first question? Thats an
extra $138. less the return shipping.
- Reason was stated as, they had to cut the frozen kingpin in half, drill
a whole in the old king pin to help with expanding/contraction, and then
heat it to realease the frozen trunnion.
This supposably took an extra 3HRS. according to Von.
-I had to cut through the kingpin that I dissasembled and it only took me 15
min. I can't imagine how drilling a whole and heating a trunnion can take 3
hours for a shop that should be set up and prepared for this type of
procedure. Especially if they advertise it on their web sight.
- So he's got my king pins, and refuses to budge from the stated cost of
getting them back. But I do have the option of never doing business with
this company again and I send this message to make you aware of the
importance of getting a WRITTEN ESTIMATE when at all possible. I at least
expected a phone call with a verbal estimate before the work was done and I
mentioned that to Von. His comment to me was that his men went ahead and
did the work one when he was out to lunch and since it was already done he
couldn't do anything about it. ( Sounds like pretty laxed business
practices to me).
- So, my king pins have been returned. One operates OK, the other one
binds(badly) mid way through its travel. After contacting Vons about this
problem the mechanic thought that the binding would work its way out, but
that just means to me that something is going to have to wear excessivly
before the binding goes away.
-After further investigation, the binding is from the lower flange of the
upper trunnion hanging up on the upper spindle shoulder, mid way through its
travel. I'm not really sure why this is, yet. I'm open for any
ideas.
-I may end up sending it back for a Look-See at Vons but then there's the
subject of the SHIPPING. Who picks up the tab? Stop the madness. What a
great Sport this is.
- After a few conversations with Von it was abvious to me that he doesn't
care about return business. I have an entire Healey to restore, but I know I
won't be using them again.
- Maybe next time I will use the "Tried and Proven" sources on our list that
have proven themselves through out the years. Can't blame a guy for
trying.
Just a little food for your Healey thoughts,
Mark,
58-MGA
60-MGA
76-MGB
74.5-MGBGT
60-BT7
From Dave Carpenter <d.carpenter7 at verizon.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2003 22:44:05 -0400
Subject: MGB shocks
Anyhow, I just returned from the Antique Automobile Club of America fall
meet at Hershey and while I was there a buddy of mine that specializes
in shocks (usually for American iron) showed me a set of four NOS
Armstrongs for MGBs. He was asking $350 for all four and asked if I knew
anyone that might want them. If anyone wants more info contact him at
shocking@highvision.net.
If anyone is on the proper MG list and would forward this, he would
appreciate it.
Dave & Bobbie
From "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine at hotmail.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2003 22:56:13 -0400
Subject: RE: FOR SALE: Tecalemit G.C. 3020 Grease Gun
Reid Trummel
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Mike Brouillette" <m.brouillette@comcast.net>
To: "'Reid Trummel'"
<ah_magazine@hotmail.com>,<healeys@autox.team.net>,<spridgets@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: FOR SALE: Tecalemit G.C. 3020 Grease Gun
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2003 22:13:32 -0400
Reid,
Is this being sold by you or the club? The reason I'm asking is I
see www.healey.org in the ad.
Mike Brouillette
59 BT7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Reid Trummel
Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2003 8:57 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net; spridgets@autox.team.net
Subject: FOR SALE: Tecalemit G.C. 3020 Grease Gun
For anyone who may need an original Tecalemit grease gun, model number
G.C.3020, for the tool kit of their 100-6, early 3000, or Bugeye, you might
be interested in:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2436382151
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
_________________________________________________________________
Get 10MB of e-mail storage! Sign up for Hotmail Extra Storage.
From carlalony2 at aol.com
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 00:18:39 EDT
Subject: Re: King Pin Job, Results(long)
Lony Taylor
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
Classic White.jpg]
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2003 23:05:53 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: King Pin Job, Results(long)
I'm sorry to hear of your experience. It never ceases
to amaze me how certain people in this business think
they can take advantage of Healey owners, when at the
end of the day most people who own a Healey will know
FAR more than the average Joe on the street about car
repair.
I'm sorry to say it isn't only Von's - there are other
very well known healey suppliers and repair shops that
you need to be careful with when dealing with.
I think I speak for most of us when I say... make sure
you get estimates first... and avoid asking for a rush
job if at all possible.
cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Mark and kathy LaPierre
<mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net> wrote:
> Listers,
>
> Here are my results from my king pin restoring
> project:
>
> - Hunted for a reasonable price to have swivle axles
> rebuilt. = " VONS" in
> South Carolina.
>
> - They advertised $85.00 on his web sight for
> "pressing out old bushings,
> install new ones and ream to fit". EXCESSIVE dirt,
> rust,or frozen parts
> will be cause for extra charges".
>
> - Conversation on the phone with Von indicated that
> they also cleaned them
> and painted them for the same price, $85.00.
>
> - I sent them my own Qinton/Hazel kin pins with my
> spindles, so no extra
> charge for the kin pins themselves.
>
> - I had one kin pin that was frozen to swivel , and
> the other one I was able
> to dissasemble before I sent them for rebuild.
>
> - The over all condition of both units was pretty
> ordinary after being on
> the car for so many years. Of course dirty, and
> some rust but what kin pins
> aren't after that many years.
>
> - After about one week I was contacted for the FIRST
> TIME stating that they
> were finished and ready for return. Good turn around
> time but the price was
> a surprise to me.
>
> - $239.00 ??????? What happened to $85.00 was my
> first question? Thats an
> extra $138. less the return shipping.
>
> - Reason was stated as, they had to cut the frozen
> kingpin in half, drill
> a whole in the old king pin to help with
> expanding/contraction, and then
> heat it to realease the frozen trunnion.
> This supposably took an extra 3HRS. according to
> Von.
>
> -I had to cut through the kingpin that I
> dissasembled and it only took me 15
> min. I can't imagine how drilling a whole and
> heating a trunnion can take 3
> hours for a shop that should be set up and prepared
> for this type of
> procedure. Especially if they advertise it on their
> web sight.
>
> - So he's got my king pins, and refuses to budge
> from the stated cost of
> getting them back. But I do have the option of never
> doing business with
> this company again and I send this message to make
> you aware of the
> importance of getting a WRITTEN ESTIMATE when at all
> possible. I at least
> expected a phone call with a verbal estimate before
> the work was done and I
> mentioned that to Von. His comment to me was that
> his men went ahead and
> did the work one when he was out to lunch and since
> it was already done he
> couldn't do anything about it. ( Sounds like pretty
> laxed business
> practices to me).
>
> - So, my king pins have been returned. One operates
> OK, the other one
> binds(badly) mid way through its travel. After
> contacting Vons about this
> problem the mechanic thought that the binding would
> work its way out, but
> that just means to me that something is going to
> have to wear excessivly
> before the binding goes away.
>
> -After further investigation, the binding is from
> the lower flange of the
> upper trunnion hanging up on the upper spindle
> shoulder, mid way through its
> travel. I'm not really sure why this is, yet.
> I'm open for any
> ideas.
>
> -I may end up sending it back for a Look-See at Vons
> but then there's the
> subject of the SHIPPING. Who picks up the tab?
> Stop the madness. What a
> great Sport this is.
>
>
> - After a few conversations with Von it was abvious
> to me that he doesn't
> care about return business. I have an entire Healey
> to restore, but I know I
> won't be using them again.
>
> - Maybe next time I will use the "Tried and Proven"
> sources on our list that
> have proven themselves through out the years.
> Can't blame a guy for
> trying.
>
> Just a little food for your Healey thoughts,
>
> Mark,
> 58-MGA
> 60-MGA
> 76-MGB
> 74.5-MGBGT
From "Peter Linn" <greylinn at ozemail.com.au>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 20:25:11 +1000
Subject: Winter storage
Cheers
Peter Linn
Brisbane
BN1 Ward Special coupe
From "Mike Brouillette" <m.brouillette at comcast.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 07:47:13 -0400
Subject: RE: FOR SALE: Tecalemit G.C. 3020 Grease Gun
The "diff" is the way the ad is it looks like the club is selling
it. So that makes it ok I sell anything I want using the club in my ad
making it look like something being sold by the club?
As a club member, I'd appreciate that you not sell your items using the
club's website on your item, This is a private sale and has nothing to do
with the club.
Does anyone else have this problem? We complain about some of the ads for
Healey material and vehicles on Ebay. What would stop someone from doing
the same on a car that's not exactly legit. To the common Joe it may look
like the club is involved with representation of the vehicle being legit...
Mike Brouillette
59 BT7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Reid Trummel
Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2003 10:56 PM
To: m.brouillette@comcast.net; healeys@autox.team.net;
spridgets@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: FOR SALE: Tecalemit G.C. 3020 Grease Gun
It's being sold by me. What's the diff?
Reid Trummel
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Mike Brouillette" <m.brouillette@comcast.net>
To: "'Reid Trummel'"
<ah_magazine@hotmail.com>,<healeys@autox.team.net>,<spridgets@autox.team.net
>
Subject: RE: FOR SALE: Tecalemit G.C. 3020 Grease Gun
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2003 22:13:32 -0400
Reid,
Is this being sold by you or the club? The reason I'm asking is I
see www.healey.org in the ad.
Mike Brouillette
59 BT7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Reid Trummel
Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2003 8:57 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net; spridgets@autox.team.net
Subject: FOR SALE: Tecalemit G.C. 3020 Grease Gun
For anyone who may need an original Tecalemit grease gun, model number
G.C.3020, for the tool kit of their 100-6, early 3000, or Bugeye, you might
be interested in:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2436382151
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
From Bob Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 08:29:10 -0700
Subject: Re: FOR SALE: Tecalemit G.C. 3020 Grease Gun
Bob Denton
Mike Brouillette wrote:
>Reid,
>
> The "diff" is the way the ad is it looks like the club is selling
>it. So that makes it ok I sell anything I want using the club in my ad
>making it look like something being sold by the club?
>
> As a club member, I'd appreciate that you not sell your items using the
>club's website on your item, This is a private sale and has nothing to do
>with the club.
>
> Does anyone else have this problem? We complain about some of the ads for
>Healey material and vehicles on Ebay. What would stop someone from doing
>the same on a car that's not exactly legit. To the common Joe it may look
>like the club is involved with representation of the vehicle being legit...
>
>Mike Brouillette
>59 BT7
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On
>Behalf Of Reid Trummel
>Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2003 10:56 PM
>To: m.brouillette@comcast.net; healeys@autox.team.net;
>spridgets@autox.team.net
>Subject: RE: FOR SALE: Tecalemit G.C. 3020 Grease Gun
>
>It's being sold by me. What's the diff?
>
>Reid Trummel
>
>
>----Original Message Follows----
>From: "Mike Brouillette" <m.brouillette@comcast.net>
>To: "'Reid Trummel'"
><ah_magazine@hotmail.com>,<healeys@autox.team.net>,<spridgets@autox.team.net
>
>
>Subject: RE: FOR SALE: Tecalemit G.C. 3020 Grease Gun
>Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2003 22:13:32 -0400
>
>Reid,
>
> Is this being sold by you or the club? The reason I'm asking is I
>see www.healey.org in the ad.
>
>Mike Brouillette
>59 BT7
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On
>Behalf Of Reid Trummel
>Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2003 8:57 PM
>To: healeys@autox.team.net; spridgets@autox.team.net
>Subject: FOR SALE: Tecalemit G.C. 3020 Grease Gun
>
>For anyone who may need an original Tecalemit grease gun, model number
>G.C.3020, for the tool kit of their 100-6, early 3000, or Bugeye, you might
>be interested in:
>
>http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2436382151
>
>Cheers,
>Reid Trummel
From Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 05:51:28 -0700
Subject: Re: BJ8-General
ahspares@dial.pipex.com
Tracy
Charlie Frazer wrote:
>Hello,
>I'm new to the list, and I apologize if I'm raising questions that are
>redundant or obvious, but I'd be grateful for your advice.
>I recently bought a BJ8, a car I wasn't smart enough to keep when I owned
>one in 1968. The car I bought is in Oregon, rust-free, but stored 10 years
>and in need of rehabilitation and paint. The mechanicals seem to be OK.
>
>I'm going to spend a lot of money on this restoration. Who should I look to
>for parts, beyond Moss Motors?
>
>Is it possible to find a replacement oil pan other than the $400 aluminum
>alternative offered by Moss?
>
>Who supplies the the best A-H interior kits?
>
>I'm not new to British cars, I have an MGB and a TR-6, but I haven't redone
>a big Healey.
>
>I'd be grateful for any general advice anyone has on restoring an 1996 A-H
>BJJ-8.
>Thank you for your suggestions and advice.
>Charlie
From "Paul Negus" <Paul.Negus at iplbath.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 14:28:44 +0100
Subject: Re: BJ8-General
I have read that the Longbridge production line was designed for engine/gearbox
assemblies to be fitted from above, hence the Healey followed suit.
Regards
Paul
-------------------------------------
James wrote:
Listers. If you have a lift or a pit, is it possible to take it out by
lowering it? JL
James Lea
Rockport Maine
62 BT7 II
From "John Close" <John.Close at sduhsd.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 06:55:56 -0700
Subject: BN6 Gearbox Overhaul
From "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine at hotmail.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 10:10:25 -0400
Subject: RE: FOR SALE: Tecalemit G.C. 3020 Grease Gun
That's an interesting perspective. I hadn't seen a negative spin in it
before.
Here's the deal: I work hard to promote the club (and since I don't get paid
anything for my club duties, there's really no conflict of interest). One
of the ways to promote the club is to get the club's website URL "out there"
as much as possible, to bring people to the website where they can learn all
about the club and its benefits. One way to get the website URL "out there"
is to post it on the Internet in various places, at no cost to the club,
where people will come across it. Some years ago I even changed my personal
eBay ID to "www.healey.org" (although I used a different eBay account in the
case of the grease gun; long story). That way when I sell or even just bid
on things using my "www.healey.org" handle, that URL is there on the
auction, where people will see it and perhaps then visit the website to see
what it's all about.
I admit that it is an original, imaginative idea, and that it is a bit
"outside the box." Guilty. But basically it's called advertising. Free
advertising. It has been one small element in a club promotion campaign
that doubled the club's membership between 1997 and 2002. That resulted in
extra club benefits such as more color in the magazine, more pages in the
magazine, the Resource Book, the free poster, the 50-page 50th anniversay
issue, and liquidity. And this was all done without raising dues.
Therefore I'd suggest that you might think of the club's URL -- posted
somewhere in an eBay auction -- as a free ad, not an endorsement, that
promotes the club and the marque, and that brings the club's existence to
the attention of a lot of people who may not even know that the club
existed. It's a service to owners really, and it has brought many, many
folks into the fold.
I see only win-win in this deal. Thanks for your concern for the club's
best interests.
Reid Trummel
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Mike Brouillette" <m.brouillette@comcast.net>
To: "'Reid Trummel'"
<ah_magazine@hotmail.com>,<healeys@autox.team.net>,<spridgets@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: FOR SALE: Tecalemit G.C. 3020 Grease Gun
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 07:47:13 -0400
Reid,
The "diff" is the way the ad is it looks like the club is selling
it. So that makes it ok I sell anything I want using the club in my ad
making it look like something being sold by the club?
As a club member, I'd appreciate that you not sell your items using the
club's website on your item, This is a private sale and has nothing to do
with the club.
Does anyone else have this problem? We complain about some of the ads
for
Healey material and vehicles on Ebay. What would stop someone from doing
the same on a car that's not exactly legit. To the common Joe it may look
like the club is involved with representation of the vehicle being legit...
Mike Brouillette
59 BT7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Reid Trummel
Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2003 10:56 PM
To: m.brouillette@comcast.net; healeys@autox.team.net;
spridgets@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: FOR SALE: Tecalemit G.C. 3020 Grease Gun
It's being sold by me. What's the diff?
Reid Trummel
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Mike Brouillette" <m.brouillette@comcast.net>
To: "'Reid Trummel'"
<ah_magazine@hotmail.com>,<healeys@autox.team.net>,<spridgets@autox.team.net
>
Subject: RE: FOR SALE: Tecalemit G.C. 3020 Grease Gun
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2003 22:13:32 -0400
Reid,
Is this being sold by you or the club? The reason I'm asking is I
see www.healey.org in the ad.
Mike Brouillette
59 BT7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Reid Trummel
Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2003 8:57 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net; spridgets@autox.team.net
Subject: FOR SALE: Tecalemit G.C. 3020 Grease Gun
For anyone who may need an original Tecalemit grease gun, model number
G.C.3020, for the tool kit of their 100-6, early 3000, or Bugeye, you might
be interested in:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2436382151
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
_________________________________________________________________
Share your photos without swamping your Inbox. Get Hotmail Extra Storage
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From "" <dsarah6 at excite.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 10:33:07 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: carpet color
_______________________________________________
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 15:38:02 +0100
Subject: Re: BJ8-General
If you're looking for AH Spares, their web address is on our Club web
site (on the Links page). A well illustrated site, in my opinion. I wish
Cape would illustrate their on-line catalogue as well - would save a few
emails and phone calls!
We list quite a few UK suppliers' web sites on the page, so it's worth a
look.
--
Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
Webmaster for the UK's national Austin Healey Club at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
From "Greg Wilkinson" <gregwilkinson at adelphia.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 07:43:10 -0700
Subject: RE:
Best,
Greg
67 BJ8
> -----Original Message-----
>
> Hi James
>
> I have read that the Longbridge production line was designed for
> engine/gearbox assemblies to be fitted from above, hence the
> Healey followed suit.
>
> Regards
>
> Paul
From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 09:56:54 -0500
Subject: inner sheet metal, door gaps and other horrors revisited
truck.
Much progress has been made in the past two weeks. I would place where the
part looked like it should go relative to the other parts and gaps, then tack-
weld, grind off because it was 1/8 or 1/4 inch off, repeat, repeat, repeat
repeat, repeat, repeat, repeat, repeat, repeat, repeat. I have gone through a
lot of grinding wheels. Anyway, the door gaps are about 1/4" or less. I
figure that I can bring that down by shifting the fenders forward a little.
Actually, I would just grab the whole rear clip and reef on it hard to make the
gap tighter. Surprisingly, the rockers panels did not need too much
modification. Just the little indentation at the front which travels to far
back. I may fill it with sheet metal or just leave it. I haven't decided.
Right now, I have the passenger side almost done. The door gap is ok, albeit a
little tight at the top.The passenger side trunk box is tacked in, trunk
floor. Almost 3/4 of an inch had to be trimmed off of the new fender well at
the top on the very outside. Next time I will get sheet metal that fits!!!!!!!
In hindsight, I might have been better off just getting a solid block of steel
and carving away everything that did not look like the rear half of a Healey.
No longer will I have to lift the rear clip off and on the chassis all by
myself. No doubt, my chiropractor was getting rich off of me. He may still be
getting rich, because next I have to install the gearbox,...all alone.
I may have more details and questions about the rear sheet metal coming soon.
Again, thanks to everyone who helped with advise and moral support.
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
63 BJ-7
Sturgeon Bay, WI.
From "Vink, Graham" <vinkg at fleishman.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 10:04:12 -0500
Subject: FOR SALE: Tecalemit G.C. 3020 Grease Gun
And as a buyer, that makes a difference to me. One reason why I bought the
famous (or infamous) Texas cooler fan for my Healey was because it was
being sold by the Texas Healey club, not by an individual.
Just IMHO.
--Graham
-----Original Message-----
From: Reid Trummel
To: m.brouillette@comcast.net; healeys@autox.team.net;
spridgets@autox.team.net
Sent: 10/13/2003 9:10 AM
Subject: RE: FOR SALE: Tecalemit G.C. 3020 Grease Gun
Mike,
That's an interesting perspective. I hadn't seen a negative spin in it
before.
Here's the deal: I work hard to promote the club (and since I don't get
paid
anything for my club duties, there's really no conflict of interest).
One
of the ways to promote the club is to get the club's website URL "out
there"
as much as possible, to bring people to the website where they can learn
all
about the club and its benefits. One way to get the website URL "out
there"
is to post it on the Internet in various places, at no cost to the club,
where people will come across it. Some years ago I even changed my
personal
eBay ID to "www.healey.org" (although I used a different eBay account in
the
case of the grease gun; long story). That way when I sell or even just
bid
on things using my "www.healey.org" handle, that URL is there on the
auction, where people will see it and perhaps then visit the website to
see
what it's all about.
I admit that it is an original, imaginative idea, and that it is a bit
"outside the box." Guilty. But basically it's called advertising.
Free
advertising. It has been one small element in a club promotion campaign
that doubled the club's membership between 1997 and 2002. That resulted
in
extra club benefits such as more color in the magazine, more pages in
the
magazine, the Resource Book, the free poster, the 50-page 50th
anniversay
issue, and liquidity. And this was all done without raising dues.
Therefore I'd suggest that you might think of the club's URL -- posted
somewhere in an eBay auction -- as a free ad, not an endorsement, that
promotes the club and the marque, and that brings the club's existence
to
the attention of a lot of people who may not even know that the club
existed. It's a service to owners really, and it has brought many, many
folks into the fold.
I see only win-win in this deal. Thanks for your concern for the club's
best interests.
Reid Trummel
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Mike Brouillette" <m.brouillette@comcast.net>
To: "'Reid Trummel'"
<ah_magazine@hotmail.com>,<healeys@autox.team.net>,<spridgets@autox.team
.net>
Subject: RE: FOR SALE: Tecalemit G.C. 3020 Grease Gun
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 07:47:13 -0400
Reid,
The "diff" is the way the ad is it looks like the club is
selling
it. So that makes it ok I sell anything I want using the club in my ad
making it look like something being sold by the club?
As a club member, I'd appreciate that you not sell your items using
the
club's website on your item, This is a private sale and has nothing to
do
with the club.
Does anyone else have this problem? We complain about some of the
ads
for
Healey material and vehicles on Ebay. What would stop someone from
doing
the same on a car that's not exactly legit. To the common Joe it may
look
like the club is involved with representation of the vehicle being
legit...
Mike Brouillette
59 BT7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net
<mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net> ]
On
Behalf Of Reid Trummel
Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2003 10:56 PM
To: m.brouillette@comcast.net; healeys@autox.team.net;
spridgets@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: FOR SALE: Tecalemit G.C. 3020 Grease Gun
It's being sold by me. What's the diff?
Reid Trummel
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Mike Brouillette" <m.brouillette@comcast.net>
To: "'Reid Trummel'"
<ah_magazine@hotmail.com>,<healeys@autox.team.net>,<spridgets@autox.team
.net
>
Subject: RE: FOR SALE: Tecalemit G.C. 3020 Grease Gun
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2003 22:13:32 -0400
Reid,
Is this being sold by you or the club? The reason I'm asking
is I
see www.healey.org in the ad.
Mike Brouillette
59 BT7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net
<mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net> ]
On
Behalf Of Reid Trummel
Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2003 8:57 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net; spridgets@autox.team.net
Subject: FOR SALE: Tecalemit G.C. 3020 Grease Gun
For anyone who may need an original Tecalemit grease gun, model number
G.C.3020, for the tool kit of their 100-6, early 3000, or Bugeye, you
might
be interested in:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem
<http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2436382151>
&item=2436382151
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 09:53:55 -0700
Subject: Re: carpet color
The carpet should be red. I own BT7 #18617, a tri-carb built a couple of
years later - Colorado Red, red interior, black seat piping, red carpet -
all of which is original material in excellent condition.
There is always the remote possibility that your car could have been special
ordered with black carpet, as the factory would do almost anything that the
customer wanted, but the standard carpet colour for that combination would
have been red.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: <dsarah6@excite.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 13, 2003 7:33 AM
Subject: carpet color
I would like to know what the correct carpet color is for a 1960 BT7. The
exterior color is black, interior is red with black piping. Currently I have
red carpet in it, but the restoration book by Gary Anderson and Roger Moment
states that the carpet color should be black.The book by Anders Clausinger
says the color should be red.Who is right? Thanks,Nick, BT7 #5682
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 12:56:02 -0400
Subject: Re: carpet color
----- Original Message -----
From: <dsarah6@excite.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 13, 2003 10:33 AM
Subject: carpet color
> I would like to know what the correct carpet color is for a 1960 BT7. The
exterior color is black, interior is red with black piping. Currently I have
red carpet in it, but the restoration book by Gary Anderson and Roger Moment
states that the carpet color should be black.The book by Anders Clausinger
says the color should be red.Who is right? Thanks,
Nick, BT7 #5682
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 11:24:50 -0600
Subject: Re: DIY Transmission Repair
The design of the big Healey frame precludes any possibility of
installing the transmission from the bottom. The central frame X members
are totally in the way. To my knowledge, the frame was designed that
way from the start, as it should have been.
Dave Russell
Greg Wilkinson wrote:
> That's interesting, I've read that DMH built the 100 before he signed any
> manufacturing deals. Did he redesign the car after signing with Austin or
> was it just easier to drop the engine/trans in from the top?
>
> Best,
> Greg
> 67 BJ8
>
>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>
>>Hi James
>>
>>I have read that the Longbridge production line was designed for
>>engine/gearbox assemblies to be fitted from above, hence the
>>Healey followed suit.
>>
>>Regards
>>
>>Paul
From "matt wilson" <mwilson18 at cox.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 11:24:30 -0700
Subject: Tamiya Healey Body - Indirectly Healey Related
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 14:36:52 EDT
Subject: Battery Switch Replacement
Best--Michael Oritt
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 14:44:58 EDT
Subject: Re: Tamiya Healey Body - directly Healey Related
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 13:09:47 -0600
Subject: Re: carpet color
You need to get the six page list of "Corrections & Additions" which is
dated 31 March, 2002. It covers the color corrections.
An email to Gary should get the "corrections" sent to you.
editorgary@aol.com
Dave Russell
Rich C wrote:
> Nick,
> Your carpet colour will be red, going along with the mostly red interior.
> Must have been a slip up in their book. They know better. Most of this info
> in their book was taken from the National Concours Standards that we had a
> direct hand in compiling over the years.
> Rich Chrysler
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <dsarah6@excite.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, October 13, 2003 10:33 AM
> Subject: carpet color
>
>
>
>>I would like to know what the correct carpet color is for a 1960 BT7. The
>
> exterior color is black, interior is red with black piping. Currently I have
> red carpet in it, but the restoration book by Gary Anderson and Roger Moment
> states that the carpet color should be black.The book by Anders Clausinger
> says the color should be red.Who is right? Thanks,
> Nick, BT7 #5682
From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 15:44:04 -0400
Subject: Re: Tamiya Healey Body - Indirectly Healey Related
From "Kent McLean" <kentmclean at mindspring.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 16:28:51 -0400
Subject: Re: Fantastic weather in Maine
> Saw a white MGA and a red MG-TD during my tour.
> No other Healeys, not even a Sprite.
I was out in my Miata (sorry, but it runs), touring the NH
seacoast. Saw a Sprite following a Morgan along Route
1B/1A in Rye. Drove by Brit Bits and got a quick glance
at a red-over-black 100/6 and some other LBCs. I would
have stopped to browse if I was alone, but the SO was in
the passenger seat.
It was a truly glorious day to be out driving. When most
people (OK, most New Englanders) think of NH, they
think of the White Mountains and Lake Winnipesaukee.
But the 18 miles of NH coastline is equally special. And
being off-season, it was easy going. And being Autumn,
the foliage was peaking. It was one of those days to
remember when the temperature is -20F and the snow
is covering your ride.
Cheers,
Kent
'56 100 BN2
From Douglas W Flagg <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 19:24:16 -0400
Subject: Re:100-4 Gas Cap
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
From "Kufchak" <leemar at bendcable.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 16:33:26 -0700
Subject: re: Winter Storage
However, our roads are usually ice covered from sometime in Nov until
March/April. Instead of salt, our roads are "sanded". I say that carefully,
because you wouldn't want to be hit by one of those chunks of "sand", much
less have the LBC take the hit.
I think I'll just run it weekly (SS exhaust), and drive it back and forth
in/out of the garage to keep everything lubed. I have a good cover for it,
and mouse traps in the garage.
Anything I'm missing?
Thanks, Lee
From "Larry Dickstein" <lonejacklarry at kcweb.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 18:58:39 -0500
Subject: Re: FOR SALE: Tecalemit G.C. 3020 Grease Gun
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
> The "diff" is the way the ad is it looks like the club is selling
> it. So that makes it ok I sell anything I want using the club in my ad
> making it look like something being sold by the club?
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 20:01:50 EDT
Subject: Re: Winter Storage
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 21:02:53 -0400
Subject: Overdrive very slow to disengage
The problem seems to get worse the longer I have overdrive engaged.
On my way to work this morning I had overdrive engaged for probably
fifteen to twenty minutes and it took at least another ten to fifteen
minutes, driving in stop and go traffic before it finally let go.
On my way home, I shifted it in and out of overdrive numerous times
and it only got stuck once, then only for a minute or so.
I checked the operating valve, running a small wire into the oil
passage which goes off toward the back of the car. I pulled the out
the hollow rod underneath the ball in the operating valve and cleaned
out the tiny hole in the side about half way down. The solenoid adjustment
is correct except that it has about 0.001-0.002" more end float (side to
side
movement of the shaft) than the book says it should have.
Is there anything else I should check?
Obviously I am concerned about inadvertently trashing my overdrive
by putting the car in reverse while it is stuck.
Thanks,
Peter Schauss
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
From "Kenny Johnson" <theswed at hotmail.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 18:00:16 -0700
Subject: Finally running
Once I get the front brakes on I'll have a driving chassis.
Kenny
61 BT-7
_________________________________________________________________
Send instant messages to anyone on your contact list with MSN Messenger
6.0. Try it now FREE! http://msnmessenger-download.com
From "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine at hotmail.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 21:27:13 -0400
Subject: Re: FOR SALE: Tecalemit G.C. 3020 Grease Gun
However, as someone anxious to be a good citizen, I'll gladly desist from
even that if the majority wishes.
Reid
Reid Trummel
a.k.a. www.healey.org
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Jim LeBlanc" <jleblanc@midsouth.rr.com>
To: "austin healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>, "Reid Trummel"
<ah_magazine@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: FOR SALE: Tecalemit G.C. 3020 Grease Gun
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 11:56:14 -0500
On occasion I have noticed list members drawing attention to an ebay
reference, as was done in this case.
I suggest that a clear line be drawn about persons and organizations
advertising on the list . I am unclear if list members have drawn this line
before.
Certainly I do not mind persons representing not-for-profit organizations
advertising on the list. However it becomes very difficult to determine just
what is not-for-profit. In the specific case of this grease gun, I doubt
that any profit was intended.
Still the question exists . .
Is advertising allowed on the list ?
Best Regards,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M
----- Original Message -----
From: "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine@hotmail.com>
To: <m.brouillette@comcast.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>;
<spridgets@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 13, 2003 9:10 AM
Subject: RE: FOR SALE: Tecalemit G.C. 3020 Grease Gun
Mike,
That's an interesting perspective. I hadn't seen a negative spin in it
before.
Here's the deal: I work hard to promote the club (and since I don't get paid
anything for my club duties, there's really no conflict of interest). One
of the ways to promote the club is to get the club's website URL "out there"
as much as possible, to bring people to the website where they can learn all
about the club and its benefits. One way to get the website URL "out there"
is to post it on the Internet in various places, at no cost to the club,
where people will come across it. Some years ago I even changed my personal
eBay ID to "www.healey.org" (although I used a different eBay account in the
case of the grease gun; long story). That way when I sell or even just bid
on things using my "www.healey.org" handle, that URL is there on the
auction, where people will see it and perhaps then visit the website to see
what it's all about.
I admit that it is an original, imaginative idea, and that it is a bit
"outside the box." Guilty. But basically it's called advertising. Free
advertising. It has been one small element in a club promotion campaign
that doubled the club's membership between 1997 and 2002. That resulted in
extra club benefits such as more color in the magazine, more pages in the
magazine, the Resource Book, the free poster, the 50-page 50th anniversay
issue, and liquidity. And this was all done without raising dues.
Therefore I'd suggest that you might think of the club's URL -- posted
somewhere in an eBay auction -- as a free ad, not an endorsement, that
promotes the club and the marque, and that brings the club's existence to
the attention of a lot of people who may not even know that the club
existed. It's a service to owners really, and it has brought many, many
folks into the fold.
I see only win-win in this deal. Thanks for your concern for the club's
best interests.
Reid Trummel
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Mike Brouillette" <m.brouillette@comcast.net>
To: "'Reid Trummel'"
<ah_magazine@hotmail.com>,<healeys@autox.team.net>,<spridgets@autox.team.net
>
Subject: RE: FOR SALE: Tecalemit G.C. 3020 Grease Gun
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 07:47:13 -0400
Reid,
The "diff" is the way the ad is it looks like the club is selling
it. So that makes it ok I sell anything I want using the club in my ad
making it look like something being sold by the club?
As a club member, I'd appreciate that you not sell your items using the
club's website on your item, This is a private sale and has nothing to do
with the club.
Does anyone else have this problem? We complain about some of the ads
for
Healey material and vehicles on Ebay. What would stop someone from doing
the same on a car that's not exactly legit. To the common Joe it may look
like the club is involved with representation of the vehicle being legit...
Mike Brouillette
59 BT7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Reid Trummel
Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2003 10:56 PM
To: m.brouillette@comcast.net; healeys@autox.team.net;
spridgets@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: FOR SALE: Tecalemit G.C. 3020 Grease Gun
It's being sold by me. What's the diff?
Reid Trummel
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Mike Brouillette" <m.brouillette@comcast.net>
To: "'Reid Trummel'"
<ah_magazine@hotmail.com>,<healeys@autox.team.net>,<spridgets@autox.team.net
>
Subject: RE: FOR SALE: Tecalemit G.C. 3020 Grease Gun
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2003 22:13:32 -0400
Reid,
Is this being sold by you or the club? The reason I'm asking is I
see www.healey.org in the ad.
Mike Brouillette
59 BT7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Reid Trummel
Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2003 8:57 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net; spridgets@autox.team.net
Subject: FOR SALE: Tecalemit G.C. 3020 Grease Gun
For anyone who may need an original Tecalemit grease gun, model number
G.C.3020, for the tool kit of their 100-6, early 3000, or Bugeye, you might
be interested in:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2436382151
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
_________________________________________________________________
Send instant messages to anyone on your contact list with MSN Messenger
6.0. Try it now FREE! http://msnmessenger-download.com
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 21:52:39 -0400
Subject: RE: BN6 Gearbox Overhaul
HTH,
Peter Schauss
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of John Close
Sent: Monday, October 13, 2003 9:56 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: BN6 Gearbox Overhaul
Hello listers - Got the gearbox out, thanks mainly to instructions by
Roger Moment. Have removed the 8 bolts securing the bellhousing, but it
remains stuck fast to the gearbox. Am I missing something? Please
advise. Thanks - John
From "Jack Feldman" <qualitas at millenicom.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 20:49:54 -0500
Subject: Old Radio/Antenna
Jack
From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 16:35:06 -0500
Subject: Re: RE:
>From what I have read there was some possibility from the start the Healey
would partner with Austin to build the Hundred, several sources say Leonard
Lord of Austin wanted a sports car to compete with MG (and maybe to use up
the A90 Atlantic engines that weren't being used) and Healey built the
Hundred in response to that. Jensen and Frazier Nash were supposedly in the
running as well, I have never really seen anything about their efforts.
Maybe DMH was confident he would win the competition and the car would be so
successful that Austin would build the cars. More likely than that they
simply followed what was standard practice in those days, which was to drop
the motor and tranny in the car along the production line, dropping the car
on the drivetrain took over as the standard as unit body and front wheel
drive designs became more prevalent.
Happy Healeying
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Wilkinson" <gregwilkinson@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 13, 2003 9:43 AM
Subject: RE:
> That's interesting, I've read that DMH built the 100 before he signed any
> manufacturing deals. Did he redesign the car after signing with Austin or
> was it just easier to drop the engine/trans in from the top?
>
> Best,
> Greg
> 67 BJ8
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> >
> > Hi James
> >
> > I have read that the Longbridge production line was designed for
> > engine/gearbox assemblies to be fitted from above, hence the
> > Healey followed suit.
> >
> > Regards
> >
> > Paul
From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 22:37:44 -0500
Subject: Re: Old Radio/Antenna
We don't have K-marta around here anymore ): used to be a decent place to
go for generic car stuff like oil, wax etc.
Notice the car sections in all the general purpose discount stores is
shrinking, maybe the backyard mechanic going extinct? or at least becoming
more rare.
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Feldman" <qualitas@millenicom.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 13, 2003 8:49 PM
Subject: Old Radio/Antenna
> Look for a three section antenna at your local Wal-Mart or Kmart. VB has
them
> also. VB's price was $9.95. I was installing radios in cars back in high
> school (1950-I'm old), and we used the exact same antenna. You can buy one
now
> that is exactly like the ones in the 50's and not worry about their being
> authentic. They probably have never been out of production.
>
> Jack
From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at comcast.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 20:43:08 -0700
Subject: non healey but techo geek interesting
Apple powers college supercomputer
By Ian Hardy
BBC ClickOnline
Everyone would love a supercomputer but with a price tag of around $100m
each they are not easy to come by.
But in the United States, staff and students at Virginia Tech have built
one of the world's most powerful supercomputers for just $5m by plugging
together hundreds of the latest computers from Apple.
The project involved placing 1,100 brand new Apple G5 towers side by
side, making it the world's most powerful "homebuilt" system.
It is capable of 17.6 trillion floating point operations per second,
with a combined storage capacity of 176 terabytes.
"Each individual G5 is a dual processor, 2GHZ machine with 4GB of
memory. So it's extremely fast," said Pat Arvin, Project Coordinator at
Virginia Tech.
The network is linked using 2,900 cables and runs at about 100 times
faster than an average corporate network.
For complete article: http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/technology/3180872.stm
Mark A. Petersen Portland, Oregon map@mac.com
Always remember: You're unique, just like everyone else.
From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at comcast.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 20:46:27 -0700
Subject: RE: Old Radio/Antenna
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Greg Lemon
Sent: Monday, October 13, 2003 8:38 PM
To: Jack Feldman; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Old Radio/Antenna
I went looking for just such a thing at my local Wal-Mart this summer
becasue I remember them having a good variety of such things, looked
around,
couldn't find anyting, was told they don''t carry car antennas, know
they
used to.
We don't have K-marta around here anymore ): used to be a decent place
to
go for generic car stuff like oil, wax etc.
Notice the car sections in all the general purpose discount stores is
shrinking, maybe the backyard mechanic going extinct? or at least
becoming
more rare.
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Feldman" <qualitas@millenicom.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 13, 2003 8:49 PM
Subject: Old Radio/Antenna
> Look for a three section antenna at your local Wal-Mart or Kmart. VB
has
them
> also. VB's price was $9.95. I was installing radios in cars back in
high
> school (1950-I'm old), and we used the exact same antenna. You can buy
one
now
> that is exactly like the ones in the 50's and not worry about their
being
> authentic. They probably have never been out of production.
>
> Jack
your replies!
From GSFuqua1 at aol.com
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 23:47:14 EDT
Subject: Re: FOR SALE: Tecalemit G.C. 3020 Grease Gun
I do not believe any harm was done AND I am totally in favor of using every
opportunity to promote our club and our cars. Personally I think if we all
apply a little common sense we can avoid most, if not all, of the confusion
that
may or may not be created by use of the club website, etc. I for one NEVER
thought the "Club" would be selling a single grease gun. I do belong to other
clubs however that actively encourage their members to advertise parts & cars
for the benefit of the rest of the club. As a guy who is always on the prowl
for various parts I LIKE to see the items offered up for sale by club members
because I have a higher level of confidence that what is being offered is being
more accurately described, is not junk, etc.
Everyone is entitled to their opinion. The above is mine.
Cheers and best regards,
Gary Fuqua
Branson, Missouri
BN2 & BJ8
TR 3B, TR 250, TR 6, TR 8
MGB
Sunbeam Tiger MK II
Corvette ZR 1 & 66 Big Block Roadster
Porsche Targa 911S
and a host of vintage motorcycles (mostly British)
From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 00:27:31 EDT
Subject: Re: FOR SALE: Tecalemit G.C. 3020 Grease Gun
Private party ads for healey related items are fine.
Commercial ads are not.
That's pretty easy to stick to. Still, there are those that get a bit tesy
whenever anyone lists anything for sale. To them I say...read the rules and
mellow out. As Reid said, "it is
really a service to List Members to let them know about hobby-related goods
available."
Rick
San Diego
In a message dated 10/13/03 6:29:47 PM, ah_magazine@hotmail.com writes:
> Regarding the question of whether "advertising is allowed on the list," I
> thought that previous discussion on the topic seemed to favor the idea that
> such posts should be clearly labeled. That's why I put "FOR SALE" at the
> beginning of the Subject line -- that way if you're not interesting in
> reading about stuff for sale, it's easy to identify and delete. I think as
> long as we use some judgement and not let it devolve into advertising
credit
> cards or home mortgage loans, little harm is done. In my opinion, it is
> really a service to List Members to let them know about hobby-related goods
> available.
>
> However, as someone anxious to be a good citizen, I'll gladly desist from
> even that if the majority wishes.
>
> Reid
>
> Reid Trummel
> a.k.a. www.healey.org
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 14:35:20 +1000
Subject: Austin and Healey Production
I wrote a piece about this for The Austin-Healey Magazine a few years back.
To say that Leonard Lord was taken completely by surprise at the 1952 London
Motor Show is just not so. Austin let it be known some time before hand that
Lord was interested in a competitor for MG using Austin A90 components. Lord
was no lover of anything that came out of Nuffield/Morris. He was previously
employed by William Morris and after a severe falling out with him left to join
competitor Austin. Yes both Jensen and Frazer Nash also built prototypes and I
understand that both still exist.
Leonard Lord knew that the new Healey 100 was on display at the Show but he
wasn't aware on its final design.
Remember the Healey cars were very much built in a bespoke manner and the
lowering the engine and gearbox from above would have well suited a low build
non-moving production line. In fact the original Healeys were shipped off to
coachbuilders as rolling chassis.
It should also be remembered that despite the amazing expertise that existed
within the Donald Healey Motor Company they were not body builders. The
building of each Healey body including that for the Healey 100 was contracted
out. This meant that when BMC took over the production they had organise
productions for cars that were designed to be hand built.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia - where it's mid Spring and getting warmer.
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
-----Original Message-----
From: Greg Lemon [mailto:glemon@neb.rr.com]
Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2003 7:35 AM
To: Greg Wilkinson; Healey List
Subject: Re: RE:
Greg, Paul, List
>From what I have read there was some possibility from the start the Healey
would partner with Austin to build the Hundred, several sources say Leonard
Lord of Austin wanted a sports car to compete with MG (and maybe to use up
the A90 Atlantic engines that weren't being used) and Healey built the
Hundred in response to that. Jensen and Frazier Nash were supposedly in the
running as well, I have never really seen anything about their efforts.
Maybe DMH was confident he would win the competition and the car would be so
successful that Austin would build the cars. More likely than that they
simply followed what was standard practice in those days, which was to drop
the motor and tranny in the car along the production line, dropping the car
on the drivetrain took over as the standard as unit body and front wheel
drive designs became more prevalent.
Happy Healeying
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Wilkinson" <gregwilkinson@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 13, 2003 9:43 AM
Subject: RE:
> That's interesting, I've read that DMH built the 100 before he signed any
> manufacturing deals. Did he redesign the car after signing with Austin or
> was it just easier to drop the engine/trans in from the top?
>
> Best,
> Greg
> 67 BJ8
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> >
> > Hi James
> >
> > I have read that the Longbridge production line was designed for
> > engine/gearbox assemblies to be fitted from above, hence the
> > Healey followed suit.
> >
> > Regards
> >
> > Paul
**********************************************************************
This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain
privileged information or confidential information or both. If you
are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender.
**********************************************************************
From Stella67 at aol.com
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 02:17:15 EDT
Subject: Re: FOR SALE: Tecalemit G.C. 3020 Grease Gun
While I am not an attorney, I have spent a considerable amount of time with
attorneys protecting the ".org" registration of our corporate name. Using the
".org" term legally implies that the user is an IRS approved not for profit
organization. Being a .org institution required all the "profits" from any sale
(the terms "sale" and "profits" are also restricted in not for profits) are
held in "trust" for the future benefit of the not for profit organization. As
I
understand it, using the distinction of ".org" to collect profits and using
them on a personal basis while not being a not for profit organization could
have some serious legal issues.
There are a number of .org institutions that vigorously protect the ".org"
distinction and the IRS would have a problem with an individual claiming to be
a
".org" institution when that is not the case. The term .org implies a very
specific not for profit status which is authorized by the IRS.
Finally, to use any organizations name without express approval by the
governing Board place both the individual and the organization at some risk.
The
organization can be viewed as having given up its rights to the name, and the
individual assumes any future board will not object in some legal fashion down
the line.
I would suggest the anyone using the ".org" term in any advertising related
to a for profit endeavor obtain some legal advice first.
Just some thoughts late at night by someone who has spent far too much time
with attorneys over the years.
John
From "Jack Feldman" <qualitas at millenicom.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 04:29:43 -0500
Subject: Re: Old Radio/Antenna
Thanks for the information. I used to direct folks to Radio Shack, but they
are also out of the auto radio business.
In my area we have Pep Boys, Auto Zone, and Murray's to buy parts from. I
would expect that competition is what is driving the discount hoses out of
the business.
Thanks again,
Jack
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "Jack Feldman" <qualitas@millenicom.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 13, 2003 10:37 PM
Subject: Re: Old Radio/Antenna
> I went looking for just such a thing at my local Wal-Mart this summer
> becasue I remember them having a good variety of such things, looked
around,
> couldn't find anyting, was told they don''t carry car antennas, know they
> used to.
>
> We don't have K-marta around here anymore ): used to be a decent place to
> go for generic car stuff like oil, wax etc.
>
> Notice the car sections in all the general purpose discount stores is
> shrinking, maybe the backyard mechanic going extinct? or at least becoming
> more rare.
>
>
> Greg Lemon
> 54 BN1
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jack Feldman" <qualitas@millenicom.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, October 13, 2003 8:49 PM
> Subject: Old Radio/Antenna
>
>
> > Look for a three section antenna at your local Wal-Mart or Kmart. VB has
> them
> > also. VB's price was $9.95. I was installing radios in cars back in high
> > school (1950-I'm old), and we used the exact same antenna. You can buy
one
> now
> > that is exactly like the ones in the 50's and not worry about their
being
> > authentic. They probably have never been out of production.
> >
> > Jack
From Bob Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 06:11:46 -0700
Subject: Re: FOR SALE: Tecalemit G.C. 3020 Grease Gun
I'm afraid that what you are saying is the ultimate dream of some
.org's. I can show you thousands, yes, thousands of of sites that are
not non-profit .org sites. If you worked in this area you know that
there is no enforcing and/or controlling organization, whatsoever.
That's one of the weaknesses in the internet. Nothing is enforceable.
However, I agree with what you say about Reid completely.
Bob Denton
Stella67@aol.com wrote:
>I haven't seen the ad and seldom look at eBay. And, I believe no one can
>claim that Reid has done anything but promote the club, Austin Healeys and our
>hobbies in anything but a positive, proactive manner. Few individuals have
>done
>more to promote our cars and protect their value then Reid. However, as
>someone who has spent a number of years in the IT world and .orgs in
>particular I
>can tell you that using ".org" has some very specific legal requirements that
>an
>individual does not meet. It further implies that the organization that
>authorizes the use of .org in an Internet address or URL has approved the not
>for
>profit status of the organization using the term.
>
>While I am not an attorney, I have spent a considerable amount of time with
>attorneys protecting the ".org" registration of our corporate name. Using the
>".org" term legally implies that the user is an IRS approved not for profit
>organization. Being a .org institution required all the "profits" from any
>sale
>(the terms "sale" and "profits" are also restricted in not for profits) are
>held in "trust" for the future benefit of the not for profit organization. As
>I
>understand it, using the distinction of ".org" to collect profits and using
>them on a personal basis while not being a not for profit organization could
>have some serious legal issues.
>
>There are a number of .org institutions that vigorously protect the ".org"
>distinction and the IRS would have a problem with an individual claiming to be
>a
>".org" institution when that is not the case. The term .org implies a very
>specific not for profit status which is authorized by the IRS.
>
>Finally, to use any organizations name without express approval by the
>governing Board place both the individual and the organization at some risk.
>The
>organization can be viewed as having given up its rights to the name, and the
>individual assumes any future board will not object in some legal fashion down
>the line.
>
>I would suggest the anyone using the ".org" term in any advertising related
>to a for profit endeavor obtain some legal advice first.
>
>Just some thoughts late at night by someone who has spent far too much time
>with attorneys over the years.
>
>John
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 05:28:50 -0500
Subject: Re: FOR SALE: Tecalemit G.C./TEXAS KOOLER.
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 03:40:01 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: non healey but techo geek interesting
By the way, I just built a new PC, top of the line
components & super fast, super cool, for a fraction of
the price of an Apple or a Dell !!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- I Erbs <eyera3@comcast.net> wrote:
> This will be an inspiration for what to do with
> excess funds in the tech
> budget... %^)
> MAP
>
> Apple powers college supercomputer
> By Ian Hardy
> BBC ClickOnline
>
> Everyone would love a supercomputer but with a price
> tag of around $100m
> each they are not easy to come by.
>
> But in the United States, staff and students at
> Virginia Tech have built
> one of the world's most powerful supercomputers for
> just $5m by plugging
> together hundreds of the latest computers from
> Apple.
>
> The project involved placing 1,100 brand new Apple
> G5 towers side by
> side, making it the world's most powerful
> "homebuilt" system.
>
> It is capable of 17.6 trillion floating point
> operations per second,
> with a combined storage capacity of 176 terabytes.
>
> "Each individual G5 is a dual processor, 2GHZ
> machine with 4GB of
> memory. So it's extremely fast," said Pat Arvin,
> Project Coordinator at
> Virginia Tech.
>
> The network is linked using 2,900 cables and runs at
> about 100 times
> faster than an average corporate network.
>
> For complete article:
> http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/technology/3180872.stm
>
>
>
> Mark A. Petersen Portland, Oregon map@mac.com
>
> Always remember: You're unique, just like everyone
> else.
From "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine at hotmail.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 06:56:10 -0400
Subject: Re: FOR SALE: Tecalemit G.C. 3020 Grease Gun
But while we're talking legal stuff, tell me, if the guy that mows your lawn
wears a NY Yankees ball cap while doing it, do the Yankees have any
responsibility for it when he accidentally cuts down your rose bush? Would
it be reasonable for someone to mistake his wearing that hat for an
"endorsement" by the Yankees? If you get a speeding ticket while driving
your Healey, and your Healey is sporting a club sticker, does that imply an
endorsement of speeding by the club?
I had no ida when I brought that eBay auction to the list's attention that
it would be the benginning of the "Grease Gun Thread." I apologize! (We
got that grease gun sold though!)
Cheers,
Reid
Reid Trummel
Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
http://www.healey.org
----Original Message Follows----
From: Stella67@aol.com
To: m.brouillette@comcast.net, ah_magazine@hotmail.com,
healeys@autox.team.net, spridgets@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: FOR SALE: Tecalemit G.C. 3020 Grease Gun
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 02:17:15 EDT
I haven't seen the ad and seldom look at eBay. And, I believe no one can
claim that Reid has done anything but promote the club, Austin Healeys and
our
hobbies in anything but a positive, proactive manner. Few individuals have
done
more to promote our cars and protect their value then Reid. However, as
someone who has spent a number of years in the IT world and .orgs in
particular I
can tell you that using ".org" has some very specific legal requirements
that an
individual does not meet. It further implies that the organization that
authorizes the use of .org in an Internet address or URL has approved the
not for
profit status of the organization using the term.
While I am not an attorney, I have spent a considerable amount of time with
attorneys protecting the ".org" registration of our corporate name. Using
the
".org" term legally implies that the user is an IRS approved not for profit
organization. Being a .org institution required all the "profits" from any
sale
(the terms "sale" and "profits" are also restricted in not for profits) are
held in "trust" for the future benefit of the not for profit organization.
As I
understand it, using the distinction of ".org" to collect profits and using
them on a personal basis while not being a not for profit organization could
have some serious legal issues.
There are a number of .org institutions that vigorously protect the ".org"
distinction and the IRS would have a problem with an individual claiming to
be a
".org" institution when that is not the case. The term .org implies a very
specific not for profit status which is authorized by the IRS.
Finally, to use any organizations name without express approval by the
governing Board place both the individual and the organization at some risk.
The
organization can be viewed as having given up its rights to the name, and
the
individual assumes any future board will not object in some legal fashion
down
the line.
I would suggest the anyone using the ".org" term in any advertising related
to a for profit endeavor obtain some legal advice first.
Just some thoughts late at night by someone who has spent far too much time
with attorneys over the years.
John
_________________________________________________________________
Add MSN 8 Internet Software to your current Internet access and enjoy
patented spam control and more. Get two months FREE!
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 08:58:26 EDT
Subject: Re: Austin and Healey Production
> both Jensen and Frazer Nash also built prototypes and I understand that
> both still exist.
>
There's a great photo article and roadtest in the October issue of "Octane"
magazine of a Frazer Nash (AFN) Targa Florio that was built for the same 1952
Earl's Court Motor Show as was the original AH100, the proponents of both cars
(HJ Aldington and Donald Healey, respectively) having been actively encouraged
by Leonard Lord. Whereas AFN normally used a two-liter Bristol 6, and Healey
was historically attached to the Riley twin cam, both cars were equipped with
the Austin A90 2.6 engine and drivetrain in the contest for an Austin
contract. We all know who won....
The article goes on to say that at some time in the AFN's history it was
restored and the original power plant was scrapped in favor of a Bristol
2-litre.
Perhaps that engine will soon appear on Ebay?
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
From "Vink, Graham" <vinkg at fleishman.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 08:25:45 -0500
Subject: RE: Overdrive very slow to disengage
-Graham
-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Schauss [mailto:schauss@worldnet.att.net]
Sent: Monday, October 13, 2003 9:03 PM
To: Healeys@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Overdrive very slow to disengage
My overdrive was working normally until last week. Now it
is very slow to disengage. When I say very slow, I mean that it
sometimes stays in overdrive for as much as ten minutes after I turn the
switch off. I suspect that the problem is hydraulic rather than
electrical because it stays in overdrive even when I shift into first
and second gears. Also, when I stop the car while stuck in overdrive,
if I turn the switch on, I can hear the solenoid click on and off as I
move the shift lever to the left and to the right.
The problem seems to get worse the longer I have overdrive engaged. On
my way to work this morning I had overdrive engaged for probably fifteen
to twenty minutes and it took at least another ten to fifteen minutes,
driving in stop and go traffic before it finally let go. On my way home,
I shifted it in and out of overdrive numerous times and it only got
stuck once, then only for a minute or so.
I checked the operating valve, running a small wire into the oil passage
which goes off toward the back of the car. I pulled the out the hollow
rod underneath the ball in the operating valve and cleaned out the tiny
hole in the side about half way down. The solenoid adjustment is
correct except that it has about 0.001-0.002" more end float (side to
side movement of the shaft) than the book says it should have.
Is there anything else I should check?
Obviously I am concerned about inadvertently trashing my overdrive by
putting the car in reverse while it is stuck.
Thanks,
Peter Schauss
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
From "Ron Davies" <rdavies1 at cox.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 06:50:53 -0700
Subject: RE: Winter Storage
I also read the fine advice others had given before I made the comments. Let
me apologize for all Californians and our weather to those that were
offended :-) It's not paradise here. I've been to Samoa and Tahiti and
that's paradise except that I saw no Healeys.
(Anyone want to argue about that?)
Ron
67 BJ8
" After
those remarks by a couple of CA owners in response to a Canadian sincerely
seeking
advice,... "
From "Ron Davies" <rdavies1 at cox.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 07:08:46 -0700
Subject: RE: Overdrive very slow to disengage
From "Ron Davies" <rdavies1 at cox.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 07:20:36 -0700
Subject: RE: BJ8-General
Subject: BJ8-General
Hello,
I'm new to the list, and I apologize if I'm raising questions that are
redundant or obvious, but I'd be grateful for your advice.
I recently bought a BJ8, a car I wasn't smart enough to keep when I owned
one in 1968. The car I bought is in Oregon, rust-free, but stored 10 years
and in need of rehabilitation and paint. The mechanicals seem to be OK.
I'm going to spend a lot of money on this restoration. Who should I look to
for parts, beyond Moss Motors?
Is it possible to find a replacement oil pan other than the $400 aluminum
alternative offered by Moss?
Who supplies the the best A-H interior kits?
I'm not new to British cars, I have an MGB and a TR-6, but I haven't redone
a big Healey.
I'd be grateful for any general advice anyone has on restoring an 1996 A-H
BJJ-8.
Thank you for your suggestions and advice.
Charlie
From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 10:12:27 -0400
Subject: RE: Overdrive very slow to disengage
Many years ago I was testing a re-wired 100-6, and I inadvertently put the
transmission in reverse while the O/D was engaged. The car bucked like a
bronco. Luckily nothing broke---but I never made that mistake again!
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
Amateur Radio AI2Q
http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
.-.-.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Ron Davies
Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2003 10:09 AM
To: Healeys@Autox.Team.Net; schauss@worldnet.att.net
Subject: RE: Overdrive very slow to disengage
"Obviously I am concerned about inadvertently trashing my overdrive by
putting the car in reverse while it is stuck."
-----------------------
I don't have an answer to your problem but just a note to ease your mind
about damaging your overdrive.....................
From "James Shope" <healeymanjim at JoiMail.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 07:29:07 -0700
Subject: for sale
From tom mitchell <3000mk3 at bighealey.org>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 10:35:00 -0400
Subject: RE: Winter Storage
My best friend lives in Brea, Calif, owns a beautiful 1962 Austin Healey
3000, MkII Roadster BT7
and keeps saying I need (have too) to move out there, so I can drive my
Healey more often.
Let me say I love the weather in both southern Calif and in Northern Calif
(San Jose area).
I live in southeastern Michigan (with the love of my life, my wife) and own
a twenty footer that is a rolling restoration (my second love). One of the
best reasons (maybe the only) I like the winters, is it affords me time to
work on my Healey. Yes I do have heat in my garage (a luxury)and working
on my and other peoples Healey's brings me a great deal of satisfaction. I
only have a three car garage and my wife is unfortunately not allowed to
park inside (much to her disappointment), since there is no room with two
BJ8's and stuff. (hay I got the garage, she got the house, that was the
deal, when we built. Course if we had to do it again, we'd build two garages.)
On my Healey I choose one major project each winter and some minor ones.
Last winter was front end, total. This winter my major project is my
transmission, either rebuild or smitty conversion. For me winter starts
around Nov, why, because I've found that April comes fast, when you tackle
a major project both in time to accomplish the work, time to secure the
correct parts and if you need machine shop or something you need to job out.
If I lived in Calif. I'd be frustrated with the long periods in between
when my car is back on the road.
Course maybe not, yet this is my rational to deal with ice, snow and bone
numbing cold.
BTW ironically my best friend is getting married early 2004 and HAS (she
lives here) to move back, giving up his place in heaven.
___________ ____________
(_______ \_______________/ ______ )
(_____ Tom Mitchell ____)
(SouthEast Michigan Austin Healey Club)
( mailto: tommitchell@bighealey.org )
At 09:50 AM 10/14/2003, Ron Davies wrote:
>I'm the CA owner who accidentally started the weather wars. When I said I
>wasn't being "facetious" about my remarks I meant I felt empathy for those
>that couldn't enjoy their Healeys year round. The statement was one of
>support for those that had to put them away for the winter. It was not
>bragging. It was in no way intended as a put-down, criticism, or pejorative
>of the state, country, climate or people who live in beautiful areas with
>seasons. How it could have been misinterpreted in that manner amazes me.
>This is the definition of facetious as I was using it:
>facetious
> adj : cleverly amusing in tone; "a bantering tone"; "facetious
> remarks"; "tongue-in-cheek advice" [syn: bantering,
>tongue-in-cheek]
>
>I also read the fine advice others had given before I made the comments. Let
>me apologize for all Californians and our weather to those that were
>offended :-) It's not paradise here. I've been to Samoa and Tahiti and
>that's paradise except that I saw no Healeys.
>(Anyone want to argue about that?)
>Ron
>67 BJ8
From "James Shope" <healeymanjim at JoiMail.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 07:53:00 -0700
Subject: shocks for bn2
From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Peter Schauss" <schauss@worldnet.att.net>
To: "Healeys@Autox.Team.Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 09:22:17 -0600
Subject: Overdrive very slow to disengage
> My overdrive was working normally until last week. Now it
> is very slow to disengage. When I say very slow, I mean that
> it sometimes stays in overdrive for as much as ten minutes
> after I turn the switch off. I suspect that the problem is
> hydraulic rather than electrical because it stays in overdrive
> even when I shift into first and second gears. Also, when I
> stop the car while stuck in overdrive, if I turn the switch on,
> I can hear the solenoid click on and off as I move the shift lever
> to the left and to the right.
>
> The problem seems to get worse the longer I have overdrive engaged.
> On my way to work this morning I had overdrive engaged for probably
> fifteen to twenty minutes and it took at least another ten to fifteen
> minutes, driving in stop and go traffic before it finally let go.
> On my way home, I shifted it in and out of overdrive numerous times
> and it only got stuck once, then only for a minute or so.
>
> I checked the operating valve, running a small wire into the oil
> passage which goes off toward the back of the car. I pulled the out
> the hollow rod underneath the ball in the operating valve and cleaned
> out the tiny hole in the side about half way down. The solenoid
adjustment
> is correct except that it has about 0.001-0.002" more end float (side to
> side
> movement of the shaft) than the book says it should have.
>
> Is there anything else I should check?
>
> Obviously I am concerned about inadvertently trashing my overdrive
> by putting the car in reverse while it is stuck.
>
> Thanks,
From James Sailer <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: "Peter Schauss" <schauss@worldnet.att.net>
To: "Healeys@Autox.Team.Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 09:26:00 -0600
Subject: The last of the Weather Wars
Jim Sailer 66 BJ8 - hopefully spring completion
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Peter Schauss" <schauss@worldnet.att.net>
To: "Healeys@Autox.Team.Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 08:43:13 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: FOR SALE: Tecalemit G.C./TEXAS KOOLER.
Alan
--- Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net> wrote:
> DITTO !! occasionally, the NTAHC through its
> mouthpiece, may mention the famous or infamous TEXAS
> KOOLER. it's infamous to those not correctly
> installing and/or checking the bushings on the rear
> stabilizer. also check the stabilizer rod itself.
> these have been known to wear in half from a bad
> busing where it passes through the frame. it's
> famous to the 98% correctly installing this modern
> marvel.
> GSFuqua1@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > With all due respect to Mike, Larry and I'm sure
> others in my opinion we have
> > managed to make a "Mountain out of a mole hill"
> so to speak.
> >
> > I do not believe any harm was done AND I am
> totally in favor of using every
> > opportunity to promote our club and our cars.
> Personally I think if we all
> > apply a little common sense we can avoid most, if
> not all, of the confusion that
> > may or may not be created by use of the club
> website, etc. I for one NEVER
> > thought the "Club" would be selling a single
> grease gun. I do belong to other
> > clubs however that actively encourage their
> members to advertise parts & cars
> > for the benefit of the rest of the club. As a
> guy who is always on the prowl
> > for various parts I LIKE to see the items offered
> up for sale by club members
> > because I have a higher level of confidence that
> what is being offered is being
> > more accurately described, is not junk, etc.
> >
> > Everyone is entitled to their opinion. The above
> is mine.
> >
> > Cheers and best regards,
> >
> > Gary Fuqua
> > Branson, Missouri
> > BN2 & BJ8
> > TR 3B, TR 250, TR 6, TR 8
> > MGB
> > Sunbeam Tiger MK II
> > Corvette ZR 1 & 66 Big Block Roadster
> > Porsche Targa 911S
> > and a host of vintage motorcycles (mostly
> British)
From Alan Bromfield <Alan.Bromfield at ntl.com>
From: "Peter Schauss" <schauss@worldnet.att.net>
To: "Healeys@Autox.Team.Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 17:00:50 +0100
Subject: RE: Overdrive very slow to disengage
The real issue then is that you won't necessarily know it's broken and the
bits will proceed to trash the OD and the mainshaft.
Expensive.
Regards.............AlanB
New Forest AHC
BJ8 five footer
BN4 chassis up rebuild
-----Original Message-----
From: Ron Davies [mailto:rdavies1@cox.net]
Sent: 14 October 2003 15:09
To: Healeys@Autox.Team.Net; schauss@worldnet.att.net
Subject: RE: Overdrive very slow to disengage
>snip
I had a 64 BJ8 that I put some 80k miles on in the 60's. I used the
overdrive to downshift (didn't accelerate to disengage) and never knew you
had to get it out of overdrive before putting it into reverse which I must
have done hundreds of times in ignorance.
I even did it three or four times with my "new" 67 BJ8 until I read in the
List never to do it.
>snip
The contents of this email and any attachments are sent for the personal
attention
of the addressee(s) only and may be confidential. If you are not the intended
addressee, any use, disclosure or copying of this email and any attachments is
unauthorised - please notify the sender by return and delete the message. Any
representations or commitments expressed in this email are subject to contract.
ntl Group Limited
From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: "Peter Schauss" <schauss@worldnet.att.net>
To: "Healeys@Autox.Team.Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 12:02:11 EDT
Subject: POSTINGS - was Re: Tecalemit G.C./TEXAS KOOLER.
Anyone else having this problem? For about two weeks, I've been getting a
lot of "response" messages, where I never saw the original. An extraordinarily
large hiccup of persons responding publicly to private notes, or, something
awry with the messaging system itself, or, just my imagination?
Dick Hosmer
BT7L18556
From "Ron Davies" <rdavies1 at cox.net>
From: "Peter Schauss" <schauss@worldnet.att.net>
To: "Healeys@Autox.Team.Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 09:13:43 -0700
Subject: RE: Overdrive very slow to disengage
-----Original Message-----
From: Alan Bromfield [mailto:Alan.Bromfield@ntl.com]
Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2003 9:01 AM
To: 'Ron Davies'; Healeys@Autox.Team.Net; schauss@worldnet.att.net
Subject: RE: Overdrive very slow to disengage
Oh Guys!!
The Overdrive, when working correctly, will drop out of its own accord due
to the electrical interlock switch releasing below 3rd gear.
If for any reason the overdrive remains engaged internally - either the cone
clutch sticking or the pressure failing to bleed down - you WILL break the
sprag clutch when you reverse.
From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: "Peter Schauss" <schauss@worldnet.att.net>
To: "Healeys@Autox.Team.Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 09:22:52 -0700
Subject: Re: Winter Storage
It may lower my image to state that I watch The O'Reilly Factor on Fox. At
the end of his program Bill reads e-mails from viewers. Often he will read
two or more messages back to back where the listeners are 180 degrees apart
on how they interpreted a segment (e.g., "You were too soft on the guest",
"You were too hard on the guest". "You are obviously a Republican", "You
are obviously a Democrat"). His standard response is, "And they both
watched the same segment!". He also states that people see and hear what
they want to hear, not analyzing the facts as they are presented.
I have fallen into the same trap on this list. Even with puntuation marks,
it is difficult to express voice inflection in the written word. Our only
hope is the use of emoticons (smilies) or written explanations to convey our
intent.
There will always be someone who misinterprets our message no matter how
hard we try to make it clear.
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Peter Schauss" <schauss@worldnet.att.net>
To: "Healeys@Autox.Team.Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 09:45:56 -0700
Subject: Re: Overdrive very slow to disengage
It sounds like you have looked in the right place - the operating valve's
bleed circuit. The solenoid adjustment is not the problem (nor the end
float setting), otherwise the overdrive would not engage, which it seems to
be doing.
FWIW: had this happen on a friend's overdrive here a while back - same
thing, overdrive disengaged slowly, but the fault was intermittent The
eletcrical system worked perfectly - solenoid could be heard to work when
the gear lever was moved into and out of the 3 - 4 postion.
It turned out to be a bit of debris caught in the hollow part of the
operating valve's rod and intermittently blocking the small oil bleed hole
that releases the pressure to the operating pistons, thus not allowing the
cone clutch to disengage.
The nasty thing about this was the realization that the hydraulics can
remain engaged without the driver knowing! Any attempt to reverse the car
at this point will instantly destroy the one way clutch deep inside, and
likely the annulus as well - we've all heard the sad stories.
Because it's the only thing that I can think of that's easy to do, it's
worth a second look at the operating valve. Take it out and examine the rod
closely - be sure that there is no crud in the hollow part, and that the
bleed hole is still open (as you already have). From experience, it only
takes a tiny amount of crud in this area to screw up the overdrive. Makes a
good argument for timely gearbox oil changes! (or a 5-speed conversion!)
If this doesn't get good results, I fear that the unit will have to come out
and apart to diagnose the problem - the blockage is elsewhere, or there is a
mechanical problem inside the overdrive, although I can't think what it
might be.
Hope this is helpful - let us know.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Schauss" <schauss@worldnet.att.net>
To: "Healeys@Autox.Team.Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 13, 2003 6:02 PM
Subject: Overdrive very slow to disengage
My overdrive was working normally until last week. Now it
is very slow to disengage. When I say very slow, I mean that
it sometimes stays in overdrive for as much as ten minutes
after I turn the switch off. I suspect that the problem is
hydraulic rather than electrical because it stays in overdrive
even when I shift into first and second gears. Also, when I
stop the car while stuck in overdrive, if I turn the switch on,
I can hear the solenoid click on and off as I move the shift lever
to the left and to the right.
The problem seems to get worse the longer I have overdrive engaged.
On my way to work this morning I had overdrive engaged for probably
fifteen to twenty minutes and it took at least another ten to fifteen
minutes, driving in stop and go traffic before it finally let go.
On my way home, I shifted it in and out of overdrive numerous times
and it only got stuck once, then only for a minute or so.
I checked the operating valve, running a small wire into the oil
passage which goes off toward the back of the car. I pulled the out
the hollow rod underneath the ball in the operating valve and cleaned
out the tiny hole in the side about half way down. The solenoid adjustment
is correct except that it has about 0.001-0.002" more end float (side to
side
movement of the shaft) than the book says it should have.
Is there anything else I should check?
Obviously I am concerned about inadvertently trashing my overdrive
by putting the car in reverse while it is stuck.
Thanks,
Peter Schauss
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: "Peter Schauss" <schauss@worldnet.att.net>
To: "Healeys@Autox.Team.Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 12:56:38 EDT
Subject: Re: Overdrive very slow to disengage
<< The nasty thing about this was the realization that the hydraulics can
remain engaged without the driver knowing! Any attempt to reverse the car
at this point will instantly destroy the one way clutch deep inside, and
likely the annulus as well - we've all heard the sad stories. >>
I guess the moral of this is, NEVER, EVER, EVER, fail to remember to "kick it
down" when you cease cruising; at least then you will know it had hung up,
and can maneuver to avoid reversing, until the problem has been addressed.
Dick Hosmer
HBT7L18556
From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Peter Schauss" <schauss@worldnet.att.net>
To: "Healeys@Autox.Team.Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 10:52:13 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: FOR SALE: Tecalemit G.C. 3020 Grease Gun
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 00:27:31 EDT
From: WilKo@aol.com
Subject: Re: FOR SALE: Tecalemit G.C. 3020 Grease Gun
The issue of advertising on the list is clear in the
rules. Private party ads for healey related items are
fine. Commercial ads are not.
That's pretty easy to stick to. Still, there are those
that get a bit tesy whenever anyone lists anything for
sale. To them I say...read the rules and mellow out.
As Reid said, "it is really a service to List Members
to let them know about hobby-related goods available......
__________________________________
The New Yahoo! Shopping - with improved product search
From "Tracy Drummond" <bighealey at charter.net>
From: "Peter Schauss" <schauss@worldnet.att.net>
To: "Healeys@Autox.Team.Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 14:09:16 -0400
Subject: Re: BJ8-General
I bolted mine right on without modification to anything.
Its been on there for a few thousand miles so it must be
ok.
Your spooking me bro.
Tracy
On Tue, 14 Oct 2003 07:20:36 -0700
"Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net> wrote:
>Charlie:
>I bought an Aluminum sump from AH Spares and although
>it's working fine and
>I'm happy with their service and support, it is a
>project.
>Do a search on the list for comments I made especially
>about priming the
>pump at reassembly.
>It is not a bolt-off bolt-on replacement because one tube
>needs shortening
>and one is removed.
>Do it while the car in up on a rack and save your
>knuckles and back.
>I bought the Moss interior kit (they said it was the one
>from England) and
>it looks great. Same for the top.
>Both were professionally installed and worth the price. I
>did the trunk
>myself (Moss again) and it looks great.
>Where are you located?
>Ron
>67 BJ8
>
>Subject: BJ8-General
>
>
>Hello,
>I'm new to the list, and I apologize if I'm raising
>questions that are
>redundant or obvious, but I'd be grateful for your
>advice.
>I recently bought a BJ8, a car I wasn't smart enough to
>keep when I owned
>one in 1968. The car I bought is in Oregon, rust-free,
>but stored 10 years
>and in need of rehabilitation and paint. The mechanicals
>seem to be OK.
>
>I'm going to spend a lot of money on this restoration.
> Who should I look to
>for parts, beyond Moss Motors?
>
>Is it possible to find a replacement oil pan other than
>the $400 aluminum
>alternative offered by Moss?
>
>Who supplies the the best A-H interior kits?
>
>I'm not new to British cars, I have an MGB and a TR-6,
>but I haven't redone
>a big Healey.
>
>I'd be grateful for any general advice anyone has on
>restoring an 1996 A-H
>BJJ-8.
>Thank you for your suggestions and advice.
>Charlie
From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "Peter Schauss" <schauss@worldnet.att.net>
To: "Healeys@Autox.Team.Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 14:16:02 -0400
Subject: RE: Winter Storage
From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "Peter Schauss" <schauss@worldnet.att.net>
To: "Healeys@Autox.Team.Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 14:19:14 -0400
Subject: RE: Winter Storage
I feel exactly the same way as you Ron-----when i read the comment, I felt
it was just a teasing comment. Guess not.
tom
> [Original Message]
> From: Ron Davies <rdavies1@cox.net>
> To: <CAWS52803@aol.com>; <leemar@bendcable.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 10/14/03 9:53:01 AM
> Subject: RE: Winter Storage
>
> I'm the CA owner who accidentally started the weather wars. When I said I
> wasn't being "facetious" about my remarks I meant I felt empathy for those
> that couldn't enjoy their Healeys year round. The statement was one of
> support for those that had to put them away for the winter. It was not
> bragging. It was in no way intended as a put-down, criticism, or
pejorative
> of the state, country, climate or people who live in beautiful areas with
> seasons. How it could have been misinterpreted in that manner amazes me.
> This is the definition of facetious as I was using it:
> facetious
> adj : cleverly amusing in tone; "a bantering tone"; "facetious
> remarks"; "tongue-in-cheek advice" [syn: bantering,
> tongue-in-cheek]
>
> I also read the fine advice others had given before I made the comments.
Let
> me apologize for all Californians and our weather to those that were
> offended :-) It's not paradise here. I've been to Samoa and Tahiti and
> that's paradise except that I saw no Healeys.
> (Anyone want to argue about that?)
> Ron
> 67 BJ8
>
>
>
>
>
>
> " After
> those remarks by a couple of CA owners in response to a Canadian sincerely
> seeking
> advice,... "
From "Andy" <healey-100 at hawaii.rr.com>
From: "Peter Schauss" <schauss@worldnet.att.net>
To: "Healeys@Autox.Team.Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 08:30:25 -1000
Subject: Re: Winter Storage
---------------------------------------------------------------------
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----- Original Message -----
From: "tom mitchell" <3000mk3@bighealey.org>
To: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
Cc: <CAWS52803@aol.com>; <leemar@bendcable.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2003 4:35 AM
Subject: RE: Winter Storage
> Ron and All,
> I've been lurking and reading with great amusement about the weather
war's.
>
> My best friend lives in Brea, Calif, owns a beautiful 1962 Austin Healey
> 3000, MkII Roadster BT7
> and keeps saying I need (have too) to move out there, so I can drive my
> Healey more often.
>
> Let me say I love the weather in both southern Calif and in Northern Calif
> (San Jose area).
>
> I live in southeastern Michigan (with the love of my life, my wife) and
own
> a twenty footer that is a rolling restoration (my second love). One of the
> best reasons (maybe the only) I like the winters, is it affords me time to
> work on my Healey. Yes I do have heat in my garage (a luxury)and working
> on my and other peoples Healey's brings me a great deal of satisfaction.
I
> only have a three car garage and my wife is unfortunately not allowed to
> park inside (much to her disappointment), since there is no room with two
> BJ8's and stuff. (hay I got the garage, she got the house, that was the
> deal, when we built. Course if we had to do it again, we'd build two
garages.)
>
> On my Healey I choose one major project each winter and some minor ones.
> Last winter was front end, total. This winter my major project is my
> transmission, either rebuild or smitty conversion. For me winter starts
> around Nov, why, because I've found that April comes fast, when you tackle
> a major project both in time to accomplish the work, time to secure the
> correct parts and if you need machine shop or something you need to job
out.
> If I lived in Calif. I'd be frustrated with the long periods in between
> when my car is back on the road.
> Course maybe not, yet this is my rational to deal with ice, snow and bone
> numbing cold.
>
> BTW ironically my best friend is getting married early 2004 and HAS (she
> lives here) to move back, giving up his place in heaven.
> ___________ ____________
> (_______ \_______________/ ______ )
> (_____ Tom Mitchell ____)
> (SouthEast Michigan Austin Healey Club)
> ( mailto: tommitchell@bighealey.org )
>
> At 09:50 AM 10/14/2003, Ron Davies wrote:
> >I'm the CA owner who accidentally started the weather wars. When I said
I
> >wasn't being "facetious" about my remarks I meant I felt empathy for
those
> >that couldn't enjoy their Healeys year round. The statement was one of
> >support for those that had to put them away for the winter. It was not
> >bragging. It was in no way intended as a put-down, criticism, or
pejorative
> >of the state, country, climate or people who live in beautiful areas with
> >seasons. How it could have been misinterpreted in that manner amazes me.
> >This is the definition of facetious as I was using it:
> >facetious
> > adj : cleverly amusing in tone; "a bantering tone"; "facetious
> > remarks"; "tongue-in-cheek advice" [syn: bantering,
> >tongue-in-cheek]
> >
> >I also read the fine advice others had given before I made the comments.
Let
> >me apologize for all Californians and our weather to those that were
> >offended :-) It's not paradise here. I've been to Samoa and Tahiti and
> >that's paradise except that I saw no Healeys.
> >(Anyone want to argue about that?)
> >Ron
> >67 BJ8
From "Rick Neves &7&" <Rick at genomictechnologies.com>
From: "Peter Schauss" <schauss@worldnet.att.net>
To: "Healeys@Autox.Team.Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 14:45:41 -0400
Subject: Camshaft for the Lemans option
Does anyone know if the lifters and springs are the same as the original
non-lemans setup?
Also, what are the lift and duration specs for the lemans camshaft? Victor**
***tish doesn't seem to know.
Sincerely
Rick Neves
'56 BN-2
&7&
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.488 / Virus Database: 287 - Release Date: 06/05/2003
From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: "Peter Schauss" <schauss@worldnet.att.net>
To: "Healeys@Autox.Team.Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 15:02:05 EDT
Subject: Re: Overdrive very slow to disengage
> Oh Guys!!
> The Overdrive, when working correctly, will drop out of its own accord due
> to the electrical interlock switch releasing below 3rd gear.
> If for any reason the overdrive remains engaged internally - either the cone
> clutch sticking or the pressure failing to bleed down - you WILL break the
> sprag clutch when you reverse.
>
Peter,
Actually, you'll reduce your fine O/D to bits about the size of your
thumbnail if you do it the way I did it, and it'll cost you heaps. I never
found out
how/what I did, so take heed!
(I remember how you'd apparently just finished yr O/d when I first started
messing about with mine. About 3 or 4 yrs ago.)
All the best,
Simon.
From "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER at netl.doe.gov>
From: "Peter Schauss" <schauss@worldnet.att.net>
To: "Healeys@Autox.Team.Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 15:10:03 -0400
Subject: RE: Overdrive very slow to disengage
The only other diagnostic clue I have is that once I've started the car and
switched on the OD at the dash, I've got it in 3rd until I shut the car
off--the drivers switch doesn't affect operation of the OD. Am I making a rash
assumption that my electrics are "OK" or do I have a more mechanically based
problem to deal with?
Randy Cooper
60 BT7 with BJ8 engine and side shift trans
From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Peter Schauss" <schauss@worldnet.att.net>
To: "Healeys@Autox.Team.Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 12:15:02 -0700
Subject: RE: Camshaft for the Lemans option
From "Ron Davies" <rdavies1 at cox.net>
From: "Peter Schauss" <schauss@worldnet.att.net>
To: "Healeys@Autox.Team.Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 12:27:44 -0700
Subject: RE: BJ8-General
-----Original Message-----
From: Tracy Drummond [mailto:bighealey@charter.net]
Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2003 11:09 AM
To: Ron Davies; Charlie Frazer; Healeys
Subject: Re: BJ8-General
Ron,
I bolted mine right on without modification to anything.
Its been on there for a few thousand miles so it must be
ok.
Your spooking me bro.
Tracy
From BN1HealeyFan at aol.com
From: "Peter Schauss" <schauss@worldnet.att.net>
To: "Healeys@Autox.Team.Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 16:04:06 EDT
Subject: Re: Old Radio/Antenna
Bill Scannell
BN-1
From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Peter Schauss" <schauss@worldnet.att.net>
To: "Healeys@Autox.Team.Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 16:46:31 -0400
Subject: Nuts.
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
From: "Peter Schauss" <schauss@worldnet.att.net>
To: "Healeys@Autox.Team.Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 14:34:51 -0700
Subject: BN6 Transmission
Terry Blubaugh
Southern California
From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Peter Schauss" <schauss@worldnet.att.net>
To: "Healeys@Autox.Team.Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 17:55:46 -0400
Subject: Night Ride in October
NIGHT RIDE IN OCTOBER
By the glow of Lucas running lights
I search the road ahead.
A thin white line leading into darkness.
Entranced, the keening wind around me,
I adjust the steering curve for curve,
as the road turns and straightens and turns again.
Dials on the dash show of our success
through time and space.
The speed we travel
and the lessening of fuel,
inhaled by the gallon each passing hour.
The fervid heat of the engine
and the oil pumping through it's veins.
Hand cupped on the black knob
atop the long shift lever,
it slips smoothly into top gear.
We pull strongly past dark Oak trees
as leaves, swirled by the rush of tires,
fly up around us, then settle, scattered on the ground,
as if we had not passed this way at all.
With hood folded and cloudless moon aglow,
I see above me branches reaching in an arch.
A canopy of night on a lonely country road.
We cross a river on our way to somewhere.
I stretch and sit behind the wheel, in perfect reverie.
Scratching my neck, my woolen jacket warms my body,
and the tune of the exhaust pipes warms my soul.
A gentle push on the clutch,
a tap of the throttle and down one gear.
Now we descend and drift smoothly through a valley,
turn sharp, and up a straight, over the top, and down again.
Destination unimportant, we are on the road.
Passing through the night are we,
the red big Healey and me.
James Lea 10/03
From "Alan Schultz" <alan at andysnet.net>
From: "Peter Schauss" <schauss@worldnet.att.net>
To: "Healeys@Autox.Team.Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 16:53:26 -0500
Subject: Re: Overdrive very slow to disengage
Alan S.
HBJ8L
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2003 2:10 PM
Subject: RE: Overdrive very slow to disengage
> Group,
> I've been watching responses to the OD question but haven't seen one that
might apply to my own OD problem. Electrics seem OK and on shifting up
through the gears can feel OD in 3rd come on. However, I seem to have no OD
in 4th. In downshifting from 4th to 3rd, I can again feel the OD kick in.
>From what (little) I know of the transmission switch, OD should operate in
both 3rd and 4th.
>
> The only other diagnostic clue I have is that once I've started the car
and switched on the OD at the dash, I've got it in 3rd until I shut the car
off--the drivers switch doesn't affect operation of the OD. Am I making a
rash assumption that my electrics are "OK" or do I have a more mechanically
based problem to deal with?
>
> Randy Cooper
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Peter Schauss" <schauss@worldnet.att.net>
To: "Healeys@Autox.Team.Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 17:29:54 -0500
Subject: TX KOOLER installation measurements on wall's BN6
the tx kooler has been on my BN6 since it went back on the road in 1992. it has
been in 18 different states, including 3 west coast trips as well as
breckenridge, co, park city, ut and lake tahoe as well as just recently
returning from a 2100+ mile trip to the se classic in the alps of little
switzerland, nc ( north of ashville, nc ) resulting in a smokey mt sojourn. it
has seen all sorts of different terrains, however,
there is a possibility it hasn't experienced those hong kong revs. you may
find it strange but even us flatlanders know how to downshift for braking
purposes.
in summary, a correctly installed TX KOOLER is a joy for your HEALEY to
experience.
Blue One Hundred wrote:
>
> Yes Jerry, you are correct. But you should also add
> that anyone who buys a Texas cooler should measure the
> distance between the front blades and the top lip of
> the radiator, and make sure it is at least 3/4" or
> more as the texas cooler flexes forward under high
> revs. I had the supposedly "correct" installation you
> all keep talking about and still had the thing damage
> a new, $300 high efficiency core. I'd love to get all
> you boys in Texas to run your cars down a steep hill,
> braking with a low gear like a jake brake. I bet half
> you guys would get the same result as me but, alas,
> Texas may be big .... but it sure is flat.
>
> Alan
> --- Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net> wrote:
> > DITTO !! occasionally, the NTAHC through its
> > mouthpiece, may mention the famous or infamous TEXAS
> > KOOLER. it's infamous to those not correctly
> > installing and/or checking the bushings on the rear
> > stabilizer. also check the stabilizer rod itself.
> > these have been known to wear in half from a bad
> > busing where it passes through the frame. it's
> > famous to the 98% correctly installing this modern
> > marvel.
> > GSFuqua1@aol.com wrote:
> > >
> > > With all due respect to Mike, Larry and I'm sure
> > others in my opinion we have
> > > managed to make a "Mountain out of a mole hill"
> > so to speak.
> > >
> > > I do not believe any harm was done AND I am
> > totally in favor of using every
> > > opportunity to promote our club and our cars.
> > Personally I think if we all
> > > apply a little common sense we can avoid most, if
> > not all, of the confusion that
> > > may or may not be created by use of the club
> > website, etc. I for one NEVER
> > > thought the "Club" would be selling a single
> > grease gun. I do belong to other
> > > clubs however that actively encourage their
> > members to advertise parts & cars
> > > for the benefit of the rest of the club. As a
> > guy who is always on the prowl
> > > for various parts I LIKE to see the items offered
> > up for sale by club members
> > > because I have a higher level of confidence that
> > what is being offered is being
> > > more accurately described, is not junk, etc.
> > >
> > > Everyone is entitled to their opinion. The above
> > is mine.
> > >
> > > Cheers and best regards,
> > >
> > > Gary Fuqua
> > > Branson, Missouri
> > > BN2 & BJ8
> > > TR 3B, TR 250, TR 6, TR 8
> > > MGB
> > > Sunbeam Tiger MK II
> > > Corvette ZR 1 & 66 Big Block Roadster
> > > Porsche Targa 911S
> > > and a host of vintage motorcycles (mostly
> > British)
From "Jim LeBlanc" <jleblanc at midsouth.rr.com>
From: "Peter Schauss" <schauss@worldnet.att.net>
To: "Healeys@Autox.Team.Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 19:42:30 -0500
Subject: RE: FOR SALE: Tecalemit G.C. 3020 Grease Gun
Sometimes just asking a question can be offensive, no offense intended,
I just wanted to know. Who knows maybe someday I too will build some
parts and lose money by making them.
Some responders have noted that they prefer to offer good deals to list
members, in place of selling on eBay. This is a commendable practice and
I have benefited from it both ways, giving and receiving.
Best Regards,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M
----Original Message-----
From: Reid Trummel [mailto:ah_magazine@hotmail.com]
Sent: Monday, October 13, 2003 8:27 PM
To: jleblanc@midsouth.rr.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: FOR SALE: Tecalemit G.C. 3020 Grease Gun
Regarding the question of whether "advertising is allowed on the list,"
I
thought that previous discussion on the topic seemed to favor the idea
that
such posts should be clearly labeled. That's why I put "FOR SALE" at
the
beginning of the Subject line -- that way if you're not interesting in
reading about stuff for sale, it's easy to identify and delete. I think
as
long as we use some judgement and not let it devolve into advertising
credit
cards or home mortgage loans, little harm is done. In my opinion, it is
really a service to List Members to let them know about hobby-related
goods
available.
However, as someone anxious to be a good citizen, I'll gladly desist
from
even that if the majority wishes.
Reid
Reid Trummel
a.k.a. www.healey.org
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Jim LeBlanc" <jleblanc@midsouth.rr.com>
To: "austin healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>, "Reid Trummel"
<ah_magazine@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: FOR SALE: Tecalemit G.C. 3020 Grease Gun
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 11:56:14 -0500
On occasion I have noticed list members drawing attention to an ebay
reference, as was done in this case.
I suggest that a clear line be drawn about persons and organizations
advertising on the list . I am unclear if list members have drawn this
line
before.
Certainly I do not mind persons representing not-for-profit
organizations
advertising on the list. However it becomes very difficult to determine
just
what is not-for-profit. In the specific case of this grease gun, I doubt
that any profit was intended.
Still the question exists . .
Is advertising allowed on the list ?
Best Regards,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M
----- Original Message -----
From: "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine@hotmail.com>
To: <m.brouillette@comcast.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>;
<spridgets@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 13, 2003 9:10 AM
Subject: RE: FOR SALE: Tecalemit G.C. 3020 Grease Gun
Mike,
That's an interesting perspective. I hadn't seen a negative spin in it
before.
Here's the deal: I work hard to promote the club (and since I don't get
paid
anything for my club duties, there's really no conflict of interest).
One
of the ways to promote the club is to get the club's website URL "out
there"
as much as possible, to bring people to the website where they can learn
all
about the club and its benefits. One way to get the website URL "out
there"
is to post it on the Internet in various places, at no cost to the club,
where people will come across it. Some years ago I even changed my
personal
eBay ID to "www.healey.org" (although I used a different eBay account in
the
case of the grease gun; long story). That way when I sell or even just
bid
on things using my "www.healey.org" handle, that URL is there on the
auction, where people will see it and perhaps then visit the website to
see
what it's all about.
I admit that it is an original, imaginative idea, and that it is a bit
"outside the box." Guilty. But basically it's called advertising.
Free
advertising. It has been one small element in a club promotion campaign
that doubled the club's membership between 1997 and 2002. That resulted
in
extra club benefits such as more color in the magazine, more pages in
the
magazine, the Resource Book, the free poster, the 50-page 50th
anniversay
issue, and liquidity. And this was all done without raising dues.
Therefore I'd suggest that you might think of the club's URL -- posted
somewhere in an eBay auction -- as a free ad, not an endorsement, that
promotes the club and the marque, and that brings the club's existence
to
the attention of a lot of people who may not even know that the club
existed. It's a service to owners really, and it has brought many, many
folks into the fold.
I see only win-win in this deal. Thanks for your concern for the club's
best interests.
Reid Trummel
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Mike Brouillette" <m.brouillette@comcast.net>
To: "'Reid Trummel'"
<ah_magazine@hotmail.com>,<healeys@autox.team.net>,<spridgets@autox.team
.net
>
Subject: RE: FOR SALE: Tecalemit G.C. 3020 Grease Gun
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 07:47:13 -0400
Reid,
The "diff" is the way the ad is it looks like the club is selling
it. So that makes it ok I sell anything I want using the club in my ad
making it look like something being sold by the club?
As a club member, I'd appreciate that you not sell your items using
the
club's website on your item, This is a private sale and has nothing to
do
with the club.
Does anyone else have this problem? We complain about some of the
ads
for
Healey material and vehicles on Ebay. What would stop someone from
doing
the same on a car that's not exactly legit. To the common Joe it may
look
like the club is involved with representation of the vehicle being
legit...
Mike Brouillette
59 BT7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On
Behalf Of Reid Trummel
Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2003 10:56 PM
To: m.brouillette@comcast.net; healeys@autox.team.net;
spridgets@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: FOR SALE: Tecalemit G.C. 3020 Grease Gun
It's being sold by me. What's the diff?
Reid Trummel
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Mike Brouillette" <m.brouillette@comcast.net>
To: "'Reid Trummel'"
<ah_magazine@hotmail.com>,<healeys@autox.team.net>,<spridgets@autox.team
.net
>
Subject: RE: FOR SALE: Tecalemit G.C. 3020 Grease Gun
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2003 22:13:32 -0400
Reid,
Is this being sold by you or the club? The reason I'm asking
is I
see www.healey.org in the ad.
Mike Brouillette
59 BT7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On
Behalf Of Reid Trummel
Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2003 8:57 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net; spridgets@autox.team.net
Subject: FOR SALE: Tecalemit G.C. 3020 Grease Gun
For anyone who may need an original Tecalemit grease gun, model number
G.C.3020, for the tool kit of their 100-6, early 3000, or Bugeye, you
might
be interested in:
From "Jim LeBlanc" <jleblanc at midsouth.rr.com>
From: "Peter Schauss" <schauss@worldnet.att.net>
To: "Healeys@Autox.Team.Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 20:11:04 -0500
Subject: RE: Overdrive very slow to disengage
"Keep it simple"
I the original case I would put my money on the valve bleed hole being
clogged. The next likely case would be not knowing where that tiny hole
is. I have just looked thru both the shop manual and the parts manual;
both omit pictures of the two holes in the valve. Give me a shout and I
will draw a picture and send it.
The case noted here would likely be in the electric switch on the trans
side shift cover. Maybe the switch is engaged in 3rd but not in 4th.
With the engine off and ignition on, just jump the two terminals on the
trans side cover and listen for the solenoid to engage in 3rd and for it
to disengage in 4th. Should this be the case, unscrew the switch and
remove the washer. Temporarily reinstall the switch and try again. This
is where my vote is.
Best Regards,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 BN2 with Healey side shift gearbox.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Randolph Cooper
Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2003 2:10 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Overdrive very slow to disengage
Group,
I've been watching responses to the OD question but haven't seen one
that might apply to my own OD problem. Electrics seem OK and on
shifting up through the gears can feel OD in 3rd come on. However, I
seem to have no OD in 4th. In downshifting from 4th to 3rd, I can again
feel the OD kick in. From what (little) I know of the transmission
switch, OD should operate in both 3rd and 4th.
The only other diagnostic clue I have is that once I've started the car
and switched on the OD at the dash, I've got it in 3rd until I shut the
car off--the drivers switch doesn't affect operation of the OD. Am I
making a rash assumption that my electrics are "OK" or do I have a more
mechanically based problem to deal with?
Randy Cooper
60 BT7 with BJ8 engine and side shift trans
From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Peter Schauss" <schauss@worldnet.att.net>
To: "Healeys@Autox.Team.Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 21:28:14 -0400
Subject: RE: Nuts.
Let me know how you make out.
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
Amateur Radio AI2Q
http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
.-.-.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of James Lea
Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2003 4:47 PM
To: List Healeys
Subject: Nuts.
Listers. A friend gave me an almost new pair of Moss/Lucas driving lamps
that
I would like to put on the Healey. The problem is that the nut that holds
the
stem on the badge bar is missing on one lamp and it is a very unusual
thread.
I have tried Moss but they do not have just the nut and a new lamp is
$129.95.
I'm hoping that there is a spare somewhere out there in Healeyland or
someone
knows where I might find one. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks,
JL
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Peter Schauss" <schauss@worldnet.att.net>
To: "Healeys@Autox.Team.Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 18:43:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Nuts.
You might try sending an email or calling
www.holden.co.uk
they carry alot of spare parts for lucas fog lamps and
will likely sell you one off if you want.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- James Lea <clocks@midcoast.com> wrote:
> Listers. A friend gave me an almost new pair of
> Moss/Lucas driving lamps that
> I would like to put on the Healey. The problem is
> that the nut that holds the
> stem on the badge bar is missing on one lamp and it
> is a very unusual thread.
> I have tried Moss but they do not have just the nut
> and a new lamp is $129.95.
> I'm hoping that there is a spare somewhere out there
> in Healeyland or someone
> knows where I might find one. Any help would be
> greatly appreciated. Thanks,
> JL
From "Alan Schultz" <alan at andysnet.net>
From: "Peter Schauss" <schauss@worldnet.att.net>
To: "Healeys@Autox.Team.Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 21:52:23 -0500
Subject: Armor All
TIA
Alan S.
HBJ8L
From John Luttenberger <JohnL at golden.net>
From: "Peter Schauss" <schauss@worldnet.att.net>
To: "Healeys@Autox.Team.Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 23:30:30 -0400
Subject: Re: Armor All
Alan Schultz wrote:
>I am about to use Armor All on my vinyl top but am concerned that the product
>may contain silicone. I have checked their product info and find no mention of
>silicone. In fact they refer to a "patented formula" but mention no chemicals
>by name. I suspect that it does contain silicone and they may not want use to
>know about it. Does anyone know for sure that it does or does not contain
>silicone? A simple yes it does or no it does not contain silicone will
>suffice.
>
>TIA
>Alan S.
>HBJ8L
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
From: "Peter Schauss" <schauss@worldnet.att.net>
To: "Healeys@Autox.Team.Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 20:35:48 -0700
Subject: Bill Bolton
Terry Blubaugh
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: "Peter Schauss" <schauss@worldnet.att.net>
To: "Healeys@Autox.Team.Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 23:48:11 -0400
Subject: Re: Nuts.
Yes it is an odd thread - 26 or 27 tpi as I recall. I too am in need of one
for a driving lamp so if you come up with one extra let me know please.
Keith Pennell
> Listers. A friend gave me an almost new pair of Moss/Lucas driving lamps
that
> I would like to put on the Healey. The problem is that the nut that holds
the
> stem on the badge bar is missing on one lamp and it is a very unusual
thread.
> I have tried Moss but they do not have just the nut and a new lamp is
$129.95.
> I'm hoping that there is a spare somewhere out there in Healeyland or
someone
> knows where I might find one. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
> JL
From gregory monfort <altec210 at yahoo.com>
From: "Peter Schauss" <schauss@worldnet.att.net>
To: "Healeys@Autox.Team.Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 22:21:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Armor All
__________________________________
The New Yahoo! Shopping - with improved product search
From Bob Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Peter Schauss" <schauss@worldnet.att.net>
To: "Healeys@Autox.Team.Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 02:56:12 -0700
Subject: Re: Armor All
I had this discussion with the brand owner, Alan Ripinski many (35 plus
or minus) years ago. He said that it was a polymer base, but he assured
me it was not silicone. It was, as we all know, designed for use on
tires, vinyl and plastic surfaces and the original bottles contained a
warning not to get it on painted surfaces. However, unlike silicone, it
can be removed from painted surfaces.
I agree that it's properties are very silicone-ish in nature, but if it
contained silicone, it would have to be stated on the label.
We can't ask Alan, he died a number of years ago.
Bob Denton
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Peter Schauss" <schauss@worldnet.att.net>
To: "Healeys@Autox.Team.Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 03:03:32 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Armor All
Unless the formula has changed in the last couple of
years, it should not contain any silicon. If I recall
correctly, I think Armor All actually sells a seperate
product Silicon tire protectant.
I would highly suggest staying away from Armor All,
whether is contains silicon or not. Armor All has a
very ugly property of accumulating, over time, dirt
and dust on the surfaces you spray it on. Over the
course of a year or more of use, you can expect
brownish gook to accumulate on tires and interior
pieces - it seems Armor All loves to suck up dirt and
retain it ... it reminds me of that green shag
carpeting they used to have in the early 70's - it's a
massive dirt suck!
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Alan Schultz <alan@andysnet.net> wrote:
> I am about to use Armor All on my vinyl top but am
> concerned that the product
> may contain silicone. I have checked their product
> info and find no mention of
> silicone. In fact they refer to a "patented formula"
> but mention no chemicals
> by name. I suspect that it does contain silicone and
> they may not want use to
> know about it. Does anyone know for sure that it
> does or does not contain
> silicone? A simple yes it does or no it does not
> contain silicone will
> suffice.
>
> TIA
> Alan S.
> HBJ8L
From GMari58175 at aol.com
From: "Peter Schauss" <schauss@worldnet.att.net>
To: "Healeys@Autox.Team.Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 08:39:12 EDT
Subject: email address request
From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 07:18:38 -0600
Subject: RE: Overdrive very slow to disengage
> Group,
> I've been watching responses to the OD question but haven't seen one that
might apply to my own OD problem. Electrics seem OK and on shifting up
through the gears can feel OD in 3rd come on. However, I seem to have no OD
in 4th. In downshifting from 4th to 3rd, I can again feel the OD kick in.
>From what (little) I know of the transmission switch, OD should operate in
both 3rd and 4th.
>
> The only other diagnostic clue I have is that once I've started the car
and switched on the OD at the dash, I've got it in 3rd until I shut the car
off--the drivers switch doesn't affect operation of the OD. Am I making a
rash assumption that my electrics are "OK" or do I have a more mechanically
based problem to deal with?
>
> Randy Cooper
> 60 BT7 with BJ8 engine and side shift trans
From Olin Brimberry <olin.brimberry.b at bayer.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 10:00:02 -0400
Subject: Column Lock Steering Box
Also, for those that may not be aware, the German and Swedish BT7 cars also have
blinkers separate from brake lights as on the BJ7 &8. I would be interested in
other quirky changes that may exist between these cars.
Best Regards,
Olin Brimberry
Raleigh, NC
From Olin Brimberry <olin.brimberry.b at bayer.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 10:06:03 -0400
Subject: Front Shroud Assembly Needed
Best Regards,
Olin Brimberry
1962 BT7
Raleigh, NC
From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 07:11:35 -0700
Subject: RE: Nuts.
http://www.namrick.co.uk/browse.asp?PCID=26
http://mdmetric.com/tech/dinpix.htm
From Jnhorn at aol.com
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 10:37:43 EDT
Subject: Front Shroud Assembly Needed
From William Moyer <William.Moyer at millersville.edu>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 11:32:06 -0400
Subject: RE: Column Lock Steering Box
However, I don't have separate turn signal/brake lights. This caused some
fun when the new wiring harness seemed to end at a black box that I didn't
have. Luckily I had access to one of these black boxes and with the wiring
diagrams was able to figure out what was going on and modify accordingly.
No gold car award for me if the perfection police crawl under the car, but I
wasn't about to rip out the new wiring harness and buy another one just so I
wouldn't have to run a nonspec additional wire to the rear end.
Bill Moyer, BJ7 - Chimera
From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 10:34:25 -0500
Subject: Weather Wars? What about the worst weather?
I got my first Healey in 78 for $600 when I was 19,...actually it was my first
car. It was a 57 BN-4 putty-bomb. It looked like the previous owner had
painted it with a broom, and orange of all colors!! Extremely rusty with Fred
Flintstone floorboards (none). I fixed the floorboards, tuned it and did
everything to get it running. I bled the brakes a lot but they never did work
worth a crap and I always had to pump the pedal well before a stop sign or
light. I put in about 2-3 quarts of oil every 100 miles or so.
I drove the Healey during the winter of 78-79 in Iowa City, Iowa while I was
going to college. The top was super ragged and I patched it with duct tape.
When it got really cold (below zero F) the duct tape let go. Consequently I
had to drive my Healey the rest of the winter without a top. I remember
driving to place ice hockey with no top when it was 11 degree below zero one
January morning. I had to lean out over the front of the windshield and scape
it as I drove. Actually the inside of the windshield froze up too. There was
a cute girl that worked at the warming house. I asked her out, but I never did
get a date with her. I guess that she didn't want to go out in my Healey with
all of the ventilation.
I can't even imagine enduring similar driving
conditions now. Am I just too old, soft and set it my ways, or perhaps just
wiser and more practical? I think that much of life is contextual. I could
never see driving a Healey in the winter now. Let alone ask a girl out while
driving a topless roadster.
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
63 BJ-7
Sturgeon Bay, WI.
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 08:52:48 -0700
Subject: 4 cyl cockpit trim on 6 cyl car
I've seen this done. My question--is the curve of the dash different on the
two cars, necessitating bending the moulding rail.
Thanks in advance.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
From "Tracy Drummond" <bighealey at charter.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 12:15:44 -0400
Subject: Re: email address request
The Healey Werks
Supplier Details
Contact
Street Address 2301 E. Oakton Street
City/Town Elk Grove Village
State IL
Zip 60007
Country USA
Order Phone 708-952-2163
Fax Number 708-952-2164
Speciality A/H Specialists
and
Healey Werks, 1821 Highway 20, Lawton, IA 51030,
800-251-2113, fax 712-944-4940
On Wed, 15 Oct 2003 08:39:12 EDT
GMari58175@aol.com wrote:
>Greetings list,
>Anyone know the email address for Healey Works?
>Assistance would be appreciated.
>George Marinos
From "Bob Brown" <BlkBT7 at aol.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 11:25:27 -0500
Subject: Re: email address request
Tracy Drummond wrote on 10/15/2003, 11:15 AM:
> I believe you mean Healey Werks? No e-mail but here's
> what google spit back at me.
>
> The Healey Werks
> Supplier Details
> Contact
> Street Address 2301 E. Oakton Street
> City/Town Elk Grove Village
> State IL
> Zip 60007
> Country USA
> Order Phone 708-952-2163
> Fax Number 708-952-2164
> Speciality A/H Specialists
>
> and
>
> Healey Werks, 1821 Highway 20, Lawton, IA 51030,
> 800-251-2113, fax 712-944-4940
>
>
> On Wed, 15 Oct 2003 08:39:12 EDT
> GMari58175@aol.com wrote:
> >Greetings list,
> >Anyone know the email address for Healey Works?
> >Assistance would be appreciated.
> >George Marinos
From tom mitchell <3000mk3 at bighealey.org>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 12:41:54 -0400
Subject: Re: email address request
Tom
___________ ____________
(_______ \_______________/ ______ )
(_____ Tom Mitchell ____)
(SouthEast Michigan Austin Healey Club)
( mailto: tommitchell@bighealey.org )
At 12:15 PM 10/15/2003, Tracy Drummond wrote:
>I believe you mean Healey Werks? No e-mail but here's what google spit
>back at me.
>
>The Healey Werks Supplier Details Contact
>Street Address 2301 E. Oakton Street City/Town Elk Grove Village State IL
>Zip 60007 Country USA Order Phone 708-952-2163 Fax Number 708-952-2164
>Speciality A/H Specialists
>and
>Healey Werks, 1821 Highway 20, Lawton, IA 51030, 800-251-2113, fax
>712-944-4940
>
>
>On Wed, 15 Oct 2003 08:39:12 EDT
> GMari58175@aol.com wrote:
>>Greetings list,
>>Anyone know the email address for Healey Works?
>>Assistance would be appreciated.
>>George Marinos
From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 12:52:35 EDT
Subject: Re: 4 cyl cockpit trim on 6 cyl car
Note: I used a new replacement dash trim that I ordered from Victoria
British.
Some pics:
http://members.aol.com/wilko/derrington.htm
http://members.aol.com/wilko/story.htm
Some links are broken (thank you aol) I'll try to fix them soon
Rick
San Diego
In a message dated 10/15/03 8:54:20 AM, sgerow@singular.com writes:
> I'm considering putting a 4 cyl aluminum cockpit moulding rail across the
> front of my BN6 cockpit. I was told the shroud is different on the BN1/2.
>
> I've seen this done. My question--is the curve of the dash different on the
> two cars, necessitating bending the moulding rail.
>
> Thanks in advance.
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
From Magnus Karlsson <492karlsson at telia.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 20:22:15 +0200
Subject: Re: Column Lock Steering Box
These locks are quite rare as you say. I had one of those cars in my
shop and the lock was made by Bosch. I have also seen the same lock in
MGB parts catalogues so you might try there.
Other changes of course include a different wiring harness, no starter
button on the dash since the steering lock also incorporates a starter
switch, omitted flasher relay on L/H front inner wheel arc, continental
exhaust with an extra muffler under the boot floor similar to BJ8 and a
six blade fan. There may be more but thats all that I remember.
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 15:34:06 -0400
Subject: Re: Column Lock Steering Box
Does your car have the rest of the equipment that came with the German cars?
If not, It's possible your car may be a US spec car that was delivered in
Germany. My bugeye was also delivered to Dusseldorf to a US serviceman who
brought it back home when he returned. It's a completely US spec car, even
though delivered in Germany. I bought the car from the original owner's neice.
Happy Healeying,
Rick
From MBran89793 at aol.com
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 15:46:48 EDT
Subject: Re: email address request
> Healey Werks, 1821 Highway 20, Lawton, IA 51030,
> 800-251-2113, fax 712-944-4940
>
This is the correct one George. Craig called me and I gave him your number &
address to order both a Big Healey & Sprite standards.
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
Concours Chief Judge-Conclave 2003
From Slvrbulit2 at aol.com
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 19:10:53 EDT
Subject: winter storage
From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 19:14:05 -0400
Subject: Trade book photo
You can see a thumbnail of the cartoon at http://www.managingautomation.com/
but unfortunately I don't see a link to a large image.
It's amazing though, how after all these years, the big Healey is still the
exemplar of what a sports car should look like!
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
Amateur Radio AI2Q
http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
.-.-.
From "James Shope" <healeymanjim at JoiMail.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 18:36:21 -0700
Subject: bn2 trunk stay
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 18:47:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Column Lock Steering Box
The Donald Healey Company had sole dealership rights
to sell Austin Healeys to US Service personel in
Europe (this is actually where DHMC made all of its
profit over the years). Since your car was shipped to
Dusseldorf, this was more than likely sent to a US
serviceman (also supported by the fact that your car
is now located in the US, particularly the South,
which further seems to indicate this was probably sold
to someone in the Army).
If this is the case, I believe the cars sold to US
military personel were exempt from the German
standards
and your car was more than likely shipped in full US
specification. Converting it to German specification
may be next to impossible as there were many little
differences... much of the stuff unavailable anymore.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- Olin Brimberry <olin.brimberry.b@bayer.com> wrote:
> Per my heritage certificate, my BT7 was shipped to
> Dusseldorf, Germany. As I
> have learned on this certificate and the Bentley
> Manual, all German and Swedish
> cars have a column lock steering box as standard
> equipment. I know that these
> are few and far between here in the US, but I was
> just wondering if there might
> be someone around here that has one that would sale
> it or access to
> German/Swedish clubs to provide parts dealers over
> the pond. I would like to
> make this correct since I have invested so much into
> it already. I would be
> willing to trade back a non-adjustable steering box
> in good shape. Any concerns
> with the column locks?
>
> Also, for those that may not be aware, the German
> and Swedish BT7 cars also have
> blinkers separate from brake lights as on the BJ7
> &8. I would be interested in
> other quirky changes that may exist between these
> cars.
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Olin Brimberry
> Raleigh, NC
From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 19:51:26 -0600
Subject: Re: Winter Storage
Bill Lawrence
Ron Davies wrote:
> I'm the CA owner who accidentally started the weather wars. When I said I
> wasn't being "facetious" about my remarks I meant I felt empathy for those
> that couldn't enjoy their Healeys year round. The statement was one of
> support for those that had to put them away for the winter. It was not
> bragging. It was in no way intended as a put-down, criticism, or pejorative
> of the state, country, climate or people who live in beautiful areas with
> seasons. How it could have been misinterpreted in that manner amazes me.
> This is the definition of facetious as I was using it:
> facetious
> adj : cleverly amusing in tone; "a bantering tone"; "facetious
> remarks"; "tongue-in-cheek advice" [syn: bantering,
> tongue-in-cheek]
>
> I also read the fine advice others had given before I made the comments. Let
> me apologize for all Californians and our weather to those that were
> offended :-) It's not paradise here. I've been to Samoa and Tahiti and
> that's paradise except that I saw no Healeys.
> (Anyone want to argue about that?)
> Ron
> 67 BJ8
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 19:32:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: winter storage
California Car Cover Company sells a simple, zippered
& sealed bag you can drive your whole car into. It's
different to the "carcoons" which are more expensive
and clumsy. This will help keep the mice out.
www.californiacarcover.com
The small $199 bag will work.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Slvrbulit2@aol.com wrote:
> Maybe I should rephrase my question. Any good ideas
> how to keep mice out of
> a vehicle when it is in the garage? Cover-no cover,
> winter-summer.
> thanks
> Seth
From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 20:30:14 -0600
Subject: Re: Camshaft for the Lemans option
Lift - .435"
Intake Opens 10 degrees btdc - closes 50 degrees abdc
Exhaust opens 45 degrees bbdc- closes 15 degrees atdc
Valve springs appear to be the same as the BN1.
Bill Lawrence
"Freese, Ken" wrote:
> Rick,
> Talk to Elgin Cams in Northern California. They will set you up with
> everything you need. They have a good web site also.
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 21:15:33 -0600
Subject: Re: bn2 trunk stay
If you look inside the wheel well you should see a couple of holes or
the remains of the holes which go through into the interior.
The bottom of the stay bracket with it's two holes gets a wood spacer
about 1" X 1" X 2" long with corresponding holes. The assembly is bolted
through the fender well holes. If you can't find the holes, let me know
& I will take some measurments.
Dave Russell
BN2
James Shope wrote:
> i am in the process of installing a trunk stay bracket on a bn2, item51,
> page116 of moss. i cannot figure out how it connects at the bottom since
> there is not bracket to bolt it to. might have been taken off during a
> repair years ago. if i have to make some kind of an L bracket to connect to
> the trunk, where does it go, i.e., how many inches up from the bottom and how
> far out, etc. thanks in advance for any help. healeymanjim bj8
From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 21:16:05 -0600
Subject: Re: bn2 trunk stay
Personally, after having tweaked one deck lid (the stay can fool you) I've given
up on using the stay and will suffer with a stick or some such that won't damage
my new (to me) lid. Mine is not a show car.
Bill Lawrence
James Shope wrote:
> i am in the process of installing a trunk stay bracket on a bn2, item51,
> page116 of moss. i cannot figure out how it connects at the bottom since
> there is not bracket to bolt it to. might have been taken off during a
> repair years ago. if i have to make some kind of an L bracket to connect to
> the trunk, where does it go, i.e., how many inches up from the bottom and how
> far out, etc. thanks in advance for any help. healeymanjim bj8
>
> ***
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 22:55:48 -0500
Subject: Re: bn2 trunk stay
Yep I had the same problem and turned around one day to see a buddy with the
trunk open so far past verticle and scratched paint....
K
----- Original Message -----
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "James Shope" <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>
Cc: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 2003 10:16 PM
Subject: Re: bn2 trunk stay
> There a a couple of holes in the inner fender which is exposed in the
boot.
> There is supposed to be a small wooden block that spaces the bottom of the
prop
> rod out and aligns it with the upper (lid) end of the stay.
>
> Personally, after having tweaked one deck lid (the stay can fool you) I've
given
> up on using the stay and will suffer with a stick or some such that won't
damage
> my new (to me) lid. Mine is not a show car.
>
> Bill Lawrence
>
> James Shope wrote:
>
> > i am in the process of installing a trunk stay bracket on a bn2, item51,
> > page116 of moss. i cannot figure out how it connects at the bottom
since
> > there is not bracket to bolt it to. might have been taken off during a
> > repair years ago. if i have to make some kind of an L bracket to
connect to
> > the trunk, where does it go, i.e., how many inches up from the bottom
and how
> > far out, etc. thanks in advance for any help. healeymanjim bj8
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 21:00:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Length of Healey
Does anyone know off hand what the length of a BJ8
Healey is, bumper to bumper? I've seen factory
measurments of 13' 1.5", but I am unsure if that is to
the ends of the body, or to the tips of the bumpers.
If anyone can confirm this is the complete and total
measurement off hand, I'd appreciate it.
Thanks,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 21:55:44 -0700
Subject: Re: winter storage
We store some food items in our garage as well as the Healey. We had rodent
problems after they chewed a hole through the wooden side door. Repaired
that and made sure there were no other openings into the garage that they
could come through. No more mice!
Just a thought.
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
----- Original Message -----
From: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 2003 4:10 PM
Subject: winter storage
> Maybe I should rephrase my question. Any good ideas how to keep mice out
of
> a vehicle when it is in the garage? Cover-no cover, winter-summer.
> thanks
> Seth
From "Eckert, Josef" <Josef.Eckert at t-mobile.de>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 08:31:43 +0200
Subject: AW: Column Lock Steering Box
Josef Eckert
Kvnigswinter, GERMANY
From "Kent McLean" <kentmclean at mindspring.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 05:25:52 -0400
Subject: Re: Weather Wars? What about the worst weather?
I fondly remember my first car, a '59 100/6. Drove it to
college in the winter of 1971. I had to use a couple of
cans of STP to slow down the oil burning. When the
temperature dropped into the teens, I had to borrow
Mom's car to jump start the Healey. That happened
more often than not. And the side curtains would let
snow blow in between the sliding panels. So I'd have
to brush the snow off the seat before sitting down. If
I didn't get to it before the temperature got warmer,
the snow would melt and be absorbed by the foam seat
cushions, which would then freeze into a solid block of
ice when the temperature dropped again.
In spite of all that, I miss it.
Kent
'56 100 BN2
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 19:44:20 -0500
Subject: Re: Night Ride in October
Thanks for words,,, Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: James Lea <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: List Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2003 4:55 PM
Subject: Night Ride in October
> Listers. Every year about this time I start feeling sad because I know I
will
> not being able to drive Ruby much longer this year. I usually react by
taking
> an extra long ride without caring much where I am headed. This came from
that
> ride last weekend. Enjoy, JL
>
> NIGHT RIDE IN OCTOBER
>
>
>
> By the glow of Lucas running lights
>
> I search the road ahead.
>
> A thin white line leading into darkness.
>
> Entranced, the keening wind around me,
>
> I adjust the steering curve for curve,
>
> as the road turns and straightens and turns again.
>
>
>
> Dials on the dash show of our success
>
> through time and space.
>
> The speed we travel
>
> and the lessening of fuel,
>
> inhaled by the gallon each passing hour.
>
> The fervid heat of the engine
>
> and the oil pumping through it's veins.
>
>
>
> Hand cupped on the black knob
>
> atop the long shift lever,
>
> it slips smoothly into top gear.
>
> We pull strongly past dark Oak trees
>
> as leaves, swirled by the rush of tires,
>
> fly up around us, then settle, scattered on the ground,
>
> as if we had not passed this way at all.
>
>
>
> With hood folded and cloudless moon aglow,
>
> I see above me branches reaching in an arch.
>
> A canopy of night on a lonely country road.
>
> We cross a river on our way to somewhere.
>
> I stretch and sit behind the wheel, in perfect reverie.
>
> Scratching my neck, my woolen jacket warms my body,
>
> and the tune of the exhaust pipes warms my soul.
>
>
>
> A gentle push on the clutch,
>
> a tap of the throttle and down one gear.
>
> Now we descend and drift smoothly through a valley,
>
> turn sharp, and up a straight, over the top, and down again.
>
> Destination unimportant, we are on the road.
>
> Passing through the night are we,
>
> the red big Healey and me.
>
>
>
> James Lea 10/03
>
> *
From "Frakes, Jim" <JimF at frakes-eng.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 07:38:05 -0500
Subject: RE: Trade book photo
Thanks for the tip. I get so many I had not read that one yet but, there
it was and yes, it is a Healey. I still have the my June 1, 2000 copy of
CIO (Chief Information Officer) magazine in the original plastic
shipping cover. It has an ad by Unisys with a full color BJ8 PH II on
the cover three times. It has a copyright of Unisys 1999.
Jim Frakes
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Alex
Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 2003 6:14 PM
To: Healeys (E-mail)
Subject: Trade book photo
In the course of business here I read many trade magazines. One of them
is Managing Automation, a magazine for manufacturing electronics
engineering folks. This month's issue has a cover showing someone "in
the driver's seat..." and it's a cartoon of.........you guessed it, an
Austin Healey.
You can see a thumbnail of the cartoon at
http://www.managingautomation.com/
but unfortunately I don't see a link to a large image.
It's amazing though, how after all these years, the big Healey is still
the exemplar of what a sports car should look like!
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
Amateur Radio AI2Q
http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
From "Alan Schultz" <alan at andysnet.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 07:57:27 -0500
Subject: Re: winter storage
I have sheets of Downy fabric softener hung from nails and on shelves. Mice
are zero. Don't know if its due to the Downy but I think it might.
Alan S.
HBJ8L
----- Original Message -----
From: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 2003 6:10 PM
Subject: winter storage
> Maybe I should rephrase my question. Any good ideas how to keep mice out
of
> a vehicle when it is in the garage? Cover-no cover, winter-summer.
> thanks
> Seth
From "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino at ripnet.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 10:03:54 -0400
Subject: weather and healeys: war stories
A couple of years later I had my first Healey. Desperate to visit my
girlfriend 200 miles away I set out on a sub-zero Jan day with a heater that
wouldn't work. I had 4 layers of clothes and a scraper for the ice on the
inside of wind screen. God what I wouldn't do to see a girl when I was in my
20's!!!
From Rick Swain <grain at auracom.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 11:29:53 -0300
Subject: Re: weather and healeys: war stories
That year as part of the university's winter carnival activities a rally was
organised and a friend convinced me that we should enter it with the Healey.
We dug a path through the snow to the greenhouse and drove the car out.
Although I hadn't even taken the battery out when I parked the car it
started right up. The only problem was that I had left water in the glass
windshield washer bottle and it had shattered when the water froze. I bought
a set of retreaded snow tires, had studs installed and was ready to go. My
friend, who navigated, did some reading on rallying and brought along his
slide rule. That was the extent of our rally equipment. We actually finished
that rally in second place - conditions were so bad one leg was wiped out.
It was my one and only rally experience.
I sold the Healey a year or so later and bought a Bugeye. Now I was living
in residence so kept that car on the road year round. I don't recall
anything significant about winter driving except for occasionally getting
bogged down in snow that was so deep the wheels were no longer in contact
with the ground. The heater seemed to work fine except that the car did get
cold when I went parking with my girlfriend in spite of layers of clothing.
Parking in a Bugeye in an eastern winter is probably a pretty effective
means of birth control.
When I graduated from university I sold the Bugeye and bought a TR3. It was
my only car for the next couple of years. Again the heater seemed to work
fine but there was a lot of windshield scraping to be done during a cold
winter day. I recall spending a lot of time with all those cars digging
frozen slush out of the wheel wells - in the front so I could steer and in
the rear so the wheels could turn. When I got married the TR3 was sold to
pay the rent. I bought a 1956 Healey 100 that needed rebuilding. I didn't
get to try that in the winter - I spent the cold weather rebuilding it then
blew the engine once I got it back on the road in the spring. That was the
end of sports cars (except for a couple of Minis) for many years.
Now I have another Healey but it definitely won't be driven this winter. In
the old days I'd think nothing of going anywhere in any of my cars no matter
what the weather. Of course in those days I had no choice. Now it's
different. There's a cold wind blowing today, the leaves are coming off the
trees and, although my wife and I have a short drive to make this afternoon,
I may just opt for the warmth of my truck.
Rick Swain
1959 BN4
1970 MG Midget
From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 10:41:54 -0400
Subject: BJ8 Project For Sale
I have a Bj8 for sale at 4500$. It has to be frame-up, totally
restored. The frame needs attention as the structure in general has
rust, but nothing we haven't seen before. The good news is is has
never been tampered with, The heritage certificate say it was British
Racing Green.Serial # H-BJ8-L?40734. That makes it a Mark III.
Originally a Canadian export. (you get to put towing eyes on it). The
engine and tranny, overdrive are matching and have been taken out and
stored. All bits including seats are with the car. The fenders are in
decent shape. All other bits including 2 bumpers, interior are there.
If you are ineterested I can send you a few photos. Car is in
Montreal, although I am not a dealer, I can arrange for
transportation. Cheers,
--
Alain Giguere
BN7 Bits
From Chris Dimmock <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2003 01:04:51 +1000
Subject: Re: Trade book photo
On page 43 you'll see Cindy Crawford in the front seat of a metallic Green
100/6 - and a front view of the car.
Its been a point of humour for many years - if I know anything about a Royal
Family; or 'who's who' in Monarco - and Ruth challenges me (or is impressed
that I knew, usually 'cause it was on the news!) - I always cite my source
as either "Sports car world" or 'Racing car news' or 'Flat chat'.
I'm sure that many other astute Healey owners do a similar thing to justify
the car mags they buy (or at least they will now....) . Its possibly on par
with 'buying Playboy only for the articles"....
: )
Anyway - the flip side is that if Ruth ever utters a factual statement about
Healeys - and I ask her the source - she alway claims to have read it in
"Hello".
: )
It was just so bloody funny when she can flippantly prove it with a pic of
Cindy Crawford in a Healey!!
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Frakes, Jim" <JimF@frakes-eng.com>
To: "Alex" <alexmm@adelphia.net>; "Healeys (E-mail)"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 16, 2003 10:38 PM
Subject: RE: Trade book photo
> Alex,
>
> Thanks for the tip. I get so many I had not read that one yet but, there
> it was and yes, it is a Healey. I still have the my June 1, 2000 copy of
> CIO (Chief Information Officer) magazine in the original plastic
> shipping cover. It has an ad by Unisys with a full color BJ8 PH II on
> the cover three times. It has a copyright of Unisys 1999.
>
> Jim Frakes
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Alex
> Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 2003 6:14 PM
> To: Healeys (E-mail)
> Subject: Trade book photo
>
>
> In the course of business here I read many trade magazines. One of them
> is Managing Automation, a magazine for manufacturing electronics
> engineering folks. This month's issue has a cover showing someone "in
> the driver's seat..." and it's a cartoon of.........you guessed it, an
> Austin Healey.
From "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER at netl.doe.gov>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 11:08:32 -0400
Subject: Re: weather and healeys: war stories
. God what I wouldn't do to see a girl when I was in my
20's!!!
From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 10:15:00 -0500
Subject: RE: Night Ride in October
----- Original Message -----
From: James Lea <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: List Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2003 4:55 PM
Subject: Night Ride in October
> Listers. Every year about this time I start feeling sad because I know
I
will
> not being able to drive Ruby much longer this year. I usually react by
taking
> an extra long ride without caring much where I am headed. This came
from
that
> ride last weekend. Enjoy, JL
>
> NIGHT RIDE IN OCTOBER
>
>
>
> By the glow of Lucas running lights
>
> I search the road ahead.
>
> A thin white line leading into darkness.
>
> Entranced, the keening wind around me,
>
> I adjust the steering curve for curve,
>
> as the road turns and straightens and turns again.
>
>
>
> Dials on the dash show of our success
>
> through time and space.
>
> The speed we travel
>
> and the lessening of fuel,
>
> inhaled by the gallon each passing hour.
>
> The fervid heat of the engine
>
> and the oil pumping through it's veins.
>
>
>
> Hand cupped on the black knob
>
> atop the long shift lever,
>
> it slips smoothly into top gear.
>
> We pull strongly past dark Oak trees
>
> as leaves, swirled by the rush of tires,
>
> fly up around us, then settle, scattered on the ground,
>
> as if we had not passed this way at all.
>
>
>
> With hood folded and cloudless moon aglow,
>
> I see above me branches reaching in an arch.
>
> A canopy of night on a lonely country road.
>
> We cross a river on our way to somewhere.
>
> I stretch and sit behind the wheel, in perfect reverie.
>
> Scratching my neck, my woolen jacket warms my body,
>
> and the tune of the exhaust pipes warms my soul.
>
>
>
> A gentle push on the clutch,
>
> a tap of the throttle and down one gear.
>
> Now we descend and drift smoothly through a valley,
>
> turn sharp, and up a straight, over the top, and down again.
>
> Destination unimportant, we are on the road.
>
> Passing through the night are we,
>
> the red big Healey and me.
>
>
>
> James Lea 10/03
From Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 08:26:56 -0700
Subject: test
From "Alan Schultz" <alan at andysnet.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 11:14:35 -0500
Subject: Re: Length of Healey
Alan S.
67BJ8 Ph II
----- Original Message -----
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 2003 11:00 PM
Subject: Length of Healey
> Hi -
>
> Does anyone know off hand what the length of a BJ8
> Healey is, bumper to bumper? I've seen factory
> measurments of 13' 1.5", but I am unsure if that is to
> the ends of the body, or to the tips of the bumpers.
> If anyone can confirm this is the complete and total
> measurement off hand, I'd appreciate it.
From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 12:54:18 -0400
Subject: Re: winter storage
Actually, if you go to www.wackyuses.com/downy.htm you will find that it can
also be used as a wallpaper remover.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 16, 2003 8:57 AM
Subject: Re: winter storage
| Seth,
|
| I have sheets of Downy fabric softener hung from nails and on shelves.
Mice
| are zero. Don't know if its due to the Downy but I think it might.
|
| Alan S.
| HBJ8L
|
| ----- Original Message -----
| From: <Slvrbulit2@aol.com>
| To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
| Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 2003 6:10 PM
| Subject: winter storage
|
|
| > Maybe I should rephrase my question. Any good ideas how to keep mice
out
| of
| > a vehicle when it is in the garage? Cover-no cover, winter-summer.
| > thanks
| > Seth
|
From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 13:58:03 -0500
Subject: What kind of shocks are these?? BN2
Jack
From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 14:28:47 -0700
Subject: Re: winter storage
No - cat is not the answer. Mouse proofing the garage is more economical
and less labor intensive.
If you have not read the bit on giving a cat a pill, find it. You will be
laughing so hard, you will hurt.
NOTE: It is almost Friday in the US and probably Friday already for some
Listers. The above is supposed to be humorous. It was written
tongue-in-cheek. It was not meant to offend any cat lovers. No animals
were injured during the preparation of these comments. No financial
interest - yada, yada, yada. Names have been changed, etc. :-) :-)
:-)
On a more serious note, since this was addressed to both me directly and to
The List and received at 10:17 this morning, why have I only received one
copy? And why did it not have any List trailers at the end. Anyone?
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Swift" <mgtd51@adelphia.net>
To: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>; "Healeys Mailing List"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 16, 2003 10:26 AM
Subject: Re: winter storage
> Get a cat
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 17:45:48 EDT
Subject: Re: winter storage
> It is almost Friday in the US and probably Friday already for some
> Listers. The above is supposed to be humorous. It was written
> tongue-in-cheek. It was not meant to offend any cat lovers. No animals
> were injured during the preparation of these comments. No financial
> interest - yada, yada, yada. Names have been changed, etc. :-) :-)
> :-)
>
What's to like about an animal that resembles a loaf of bread?
Best--Michael
From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 18:45:36 -0400
Subject: Re: winter storage
> On a more serious note, since this was addressed to both me directly and to
> The List and received at 10:17 this morning, why have I only received one
> copy?
The cat lobby is more powerful than you can possibly imagine.
--
John Miller
In this world there are only two tragedies. One is not getting what one
wants, and the other is getting it.
-Oscar Wilde
From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 18:50:53 -0400
Subject: Robb Report
Tom
From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 18:55:38 -0400
Subject: RE: weather and healeys: war stories
tom
> [Original Message]
> From: Dr. Carl Rubino <ruvino@ripnet.com>
> To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 10/16/03 9:42:53 AM
> Subject: weather and healeys: war stories
>
> My first cold weather experience was with a 1958 MGA while attending
> University in New Brunswick (Canada). When the weather got really cold and
> snowing and I got fed up with trying to start the car I just let if freeze
> over in the parking lot. When the first sign of spring came I would dig
it out
> and let it thaw in the sun.
>
> A couple of years later I had my first Healey. Desperate to visit my
> girlfriend 200 miles away I set out on a sub-zero Jan day with a heater
that
> wouldn't work. I had 4 layers of clothes and a scraper for the ice on the
> inside of wind screen. God what I wouldn't do to see a girl when I was in
my
> 20's!!!
From MBran89793 at aol.com
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 23:10:13 EDT
Subject: Check out overview
Hi Healey Lovers-
Just for your information if you are in the Tampa Bay area on Saturday,
October 18 you may want to drop in on the 17th annual ALL BRITISH Field Meet &
Autojumble. The meet has been hosted by the TAMPA BAY AUSTIN-HEALEY CLUB for
all
the annual events. The featured marque is JAGUAR.
We changed locations this year to the Safety Harbor Resort & Spa, 105 North
Bayshore Drive, Safety Harbor, FL.
If the weather prediction holds true it should be perfect for a record meet
turn out.
From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 22:16:13 -0500
Subject: Re: weather and healeys: war stories
In the many years of driving in the snow there were lots of mornings on
non-starting, jump starts, frozen windshields, and cold hands. One cold
morning I made the mistake of trying to crack the ice off of the rear
plastic window of the convertible top on my sprite. As you may have already
guessed the window cracked along with the ice.
The most fun was had with a couple of Sprites I had in college. Cranking
the wheel and stomping on the gas would allow for fun 180s in the middle of
the street, impressing freinds and neighbors, the cars were so small they
never ran into anthing doing this.
I remember engaging in a "stoplight grand prix" with a Porsche 911 one night
when the snow was coming down hard. Still lost but not by much, fun times.
Sprites are a blast in the snow, haven't and probably won't have the
pleasure of trying the same tricks with a big healey.
Happy Healeying
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 21:24:49 -0600
Subject: Re: bn2 trunk stay
Bill Lawrence
Keith Turk wrote:
> The disadvantage to the stick theory is that some idiot can open your trunk
> over center which twists the hinges and grinds the paint....
>
> Yep I had the same problem and turned around one day to see a buddy with the
> trunk open so far past verticle and scratched paint....
>
> K
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
> To: "James Shope" <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>
> Cc: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 2003 10:16 PM
> Subject: Re: bn2 trunk stay
>
> > There a a couple of holes in the inner fender which is exposed in the
> boot.
> > There is supposed to be a small wooden block that spaces the bottom of the
> prop
> > rod out and aligns it with the upper (lid) end of the stay.
> >
> > Personally, after having tweaked one deck lid (the stay can fool you) I've
> given
> > up on using the stay and will suffer with a stick or some such that won't
> damage
> > my new (to me) lid. Mine is not a show car.
> >
> > Bill Lawrence
From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2003 06:56:08 -0400
Subject: Re: Front Shroud Assembly Needed
Mick Vander Ploeg
57 BN4
Raleigh, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Olin Brimberry" <olin.brimberry.b@bayer.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 2003 10:06 AM
Subject: Front Shroud Assembly Needed
> My restorer called me yesterday and informed me that the front shroud
assembly
> was in such disarray that he suggested finding a new one as opposed to
trying to
> make the existing one correct - cost more to fix than finding a good used
one.
> Does anyone have a source for a good undamaged shroud? I can not pay the
price
> M**s is asking - way too much.
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Olin Brimberry
> 1962 BT7
> Raleigh, NC
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2003 07:02:05 EDT
Subject: Re: weather and healeys: war stories
Happy Healeying,
Rick
Who along with the rest of Red Sox nation has an early date to report to the
top of the Tobin Bridge for the mass jump into the Mystic River.
In a message dated 10/16/03 11:19:16 PM, glemon@neb.rr.com writes:
<<The most fun was had with a couple of Sprites I had in college. Cranking
the wheel and stomping on the gas would allow for fun 180s in the middle of
the street, impressing freinds and neighbors, the cars were so small they
never ran into anthing doing this.>>
From Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2003 05:35:43 -0700
Subject: Distributor 100-M spec
From "Vink, Graham" <vinkg at fleishman.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2003 08:03:24 -0500
Subject: Re cats and storage
The good news is that my garage is free of mice. The bad news is that
the cat brings all her other yard kill into the garage to show me, the
proud papa, including birds and chipmunks.
Also, her favorite place in the ENTIRE WORLD to sleep is on top of
convertible tops, so I now have long grey hairs on the black tops of
both the BJ7 and an Alfa.
Finally, I had a cat door in the garage so the cat could arrive to kill
mice as she pleased. Unfortunately, the racoons liked the door, too, and
would come by every night for cat food.
So I vote for mothballs or Downey strips ...
Graham
-
From "John Close" <John.Close at sduhsd.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2003 06:54:47 -0700
Subject: BN6 Gearbox Saga
From "Alan Schultz" <alan at andysnet.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2003 09:05:53 -0500
Subject: Re: Front Shroud Assembly Needed
Alan S.
67 HBJ* Ph II
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: "Olin Brimberry" <olin.brimberry.b@bayer.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 17, 2003 5:56 AM
Subject: Re: Front Shroud Assembly Needed
> You might want to check out this site...
> http://www.autosmore.com/listings/austinparts/bodyparts.htm
> He's got a pile of body parts, including front shrouds. They're in
Nevada,
> but you could have it shipped.
>
> Mick Vander Ploeg
> 57 BN4
> Raleigh, NC
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2003 08:54:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Front Shroud Assembly Needed
If it is the same car, we could not find a jacking
point that would not provide additional ventalation...
Dean
--- Alan Schultz <alan@andysnet.net> wrote:
> Those are rust free parts?? Buyer beware!
>
__________________________________
The New Yahoo! Shopping - with improved product search
From "Tracy Drummond" <bighealey at charter.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2003 11:58:55 -0400
Subject: Re: Front Shroud Assembly Needed
Tracy
On Fri, 17 Oct 2003 09:05:53 -0500
"Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net> wrote:
>Those are rust free parts?? Buyer beware!
>
>Alan S.
>67 HBJ* Ph II
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
>To: "Olin Brimberry" <olin.brimberry.b@bayer.com>;
><healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Friday, October 17, 2003 5:56 AM
>Subject: Re: Front Shroud Assembly Needed
>
>
>> You might want to check out this site...
>> http://www.autosmore.com/listings/austinparts/bodyparts.htm
>> He's got a pile of body parts, including front shrouds.
>> They're in
>Nevada,
>> but you could have it shipped.
>>
>> Mick Vander Ploeg
>> 57 BN4
>> Raleigh, NC
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2003 20:28:57 -0400
Subject: RE: BN6 Gearbox Saga
The BMC shop manual does say to separate the overdrive from the
adaptor plate and I tried it that way once and it was very
difficult to reassemble because you have to compress the eight
large springs which hold the clutch in the non-overdrive position.
Unless you need to work on the overdrive unit, separate the adaptor
plate from the gearbox instead.
Manuals: Get a reprint of the original BMC shop manual. You should
really have one of these before you tear into your gearbox.
Gasket removal:
I use a one-edged razor blade.
HTH,
Peter Schauss
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of John Close
Sent: Friday, October 17, 2003 9:55 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: BN6 Gearbox Saga
Hello Listers:
1. One of my sources says remove overdrive and adaptor plate together;
another says detach overdrive from adaptor plate first. Which is best?
2. Speaking of sources, what's the best workshop manual? I'd like more
detail and illustrations than I have in my Autopress Ltd. manual.
3. Can you suggest some gasket-removal techniques?
Thanks so much for the collective wisdom. - John
From "Kenny Johnson" <theswed at hotmail.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2003 17:51:39 -0700
Subject: Getting Ready for Paint - Need some adxice
Anyone have paint codes for Healey Blue?
Kenny
_________________________________________________________________
Fretting that your Hotmail account may expire because you forgot to sign in
enough? Get Hotmail Extra Storage today!
From "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid at hotmail.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2003 05:42:24 +0000
Subject: FOR SALE: Tecalemit GB 2788 Grease Gun & Adaptor
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2438210795
NOTICE: The item referred to above, offered at auction on ebay.com, is a
private sale and is not associated with or endorsed by any other person,
organization or entity. This message is posted to the Healeys Mail List in
strict accordance with list rules. The "FOR SALE" entry at the beginning of
the subject line is used as a courtesy to immediately and clearly identify
the nature of this message, and it allows uninterested persons to delete the
message without reading. For those interested, it constitutes a service to
notify them of parts available that may be of particular interest to them.
While this sale is strictly a non-commercial, non-profit offer, if the
auction results in a substantial bid, I suppose that I shall be forced to
accept the total amount offered, but I vow to donate excess proceeds to a
good cause. Margaritas come to mind. If you've read this far and you're
still feeling cranky about the whole deal, please go back to pulling the
wings off flies, or whatever it is you do for personal amusement in the
privacy of your own home. No animals were harmed in the preparation and
execution of this auction or this message, although frankly I could not care
less if every spotted owl on the planet were to show up, face down, in the
Hudson River tomorrow morning. Caution, hot coffee can burn you. It's for
the children!
Reid Trummel
Portland, Oregon
100, 100M, Bugeye, Ski-Master
_________________________________________________________________
Want to check if your PC is virus-infected? Get a FREE computer virus scan
online from McAfee.
http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963
From BN1HealeyFan at aol.com
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2003 02:20:12 EDT
Subject: Healey TV Program
Bill Scannell
BN-1
From tld6008 at mchsi.com
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2003 07:44:09 +0000
Subject: Re: Front Shroud Assembly Needed
Tim Davis BN7
> Do alloy shrouds rust? I have heard of some
> deterioration where metal meets alloy.
>
> Tracy
>
> On Fri, 17 Oct 2003 09:05:53 -0500
> "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net> wrote:
> >Those are rust free parts?? Buyer beware!
> >
> >Alan S.
> >67 HBJ* Ph II
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
> >To: "Olin Brimberry" <olin.brimberry.b@bayer.com>;
> ><healeys@autox.team.net>
> >Sent: Friday, October 17, 2003 5:56 AM
> >Subject: Re: Front Shroud Assembly Needed
> >
> >
> >> You might want to check out this site...
> >> http://www.autosmore.com/listings/austinparts/bodyparts.htm
> >> He's got a pile of body parts, including front shrouds.
> >> They're in
> >Nevada,
> >> but you could have it shipped.
> >>
> >> Mick Vander Ploeg
> >> 57 BN4
> >> Raleigh, NC
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2003 06:14:12 -0500
Subject: Re: FOR SALE: Tecalemit GB 2788 Grease Gun & Adaptor
From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2003 06:37:55 -0500
Subject: Re: FOR SALE: Tecalemit GB 2788 Grease Gun & Adaptor
----- Original Message -----
From: "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 18, 2003 12:42 AM
Subject: FOR SALE: Tecalemit GB 2788 Grease Gun & Adaptor
> For anyone who may need a Tecalemit grease gun, model number GB 2788, with
> adaptor, for the tool kit of your 100, you might be interested in:
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2438210795
>
> NOTICE: The item referred to above, offered at auction on ebay.com, is a
> private sale and is not associated with or endorsed by any other person,
> organization or entity. This message is posted to the Healeys Mail List
in
> strict accordance with list rules. The "FOR SALE" entry at the beginning
of
> the subject line is used as a courtesy to immediately and clearly identify
> the nature of this message, and it allows uninterested persons to delete
the
> message without reading. For those interested, it constitutes a service
to
> notify them of parts available that may be of particular interest to them.
> While this sale is strictly a non-commercial, non-profit offer, if the
> auction results in a substantial bid, I suppose that I shall be forced to
> accept the total amount offered, but I vow to donate excess proceeds to a
> good cause. Margaritas come to mind. If you've read this far and you're
> still feeling cranky about the whole deal, please go back to pulling the
> wings off flies, or whatever it is you do for personal amusement in the
> privacy of your own home. No animals were harmed in the preparation and
> execution of this auction or this message, although frankly I could not
care
> less if every spotted owl on the planet were to show up, face down, in the
> Hudson River tomorrow morning. Caution, hot coffee can burn you. It's
for
> the children!
>
>
> Reid Trummel
> Portland, Oregon
> 100, 100M, Bugeye, Ski-Master
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Want to check if your PC is virus-infected? Get a FREE computer virus
scan
> online from McAfee.
> http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963
From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2003 09:20:48 -0400
Subject: Re: Healey TV Program
James Lea
Rockport Maine
62 BT7 II
From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2003 09:41:28 -0400
Subject: TV Library
From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2003 09:24:39 -0500
Subject: WTB Bugeye Sprite
From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2003 10:30:13 -0400
Subject: Re: TV Library
I see no provision for ordering a tape. Perhaps someone at the AH
Association of SoCal can help?? I would certainly buy a copy to add to my
library.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 18, 2003 9:41 AM
Subject: TV Library
| Listers. I missed the show on Fineliving last night,much to my
disappointment.
| It occurred to me that it might be possible to start a video library of
| British car shows that could be shared among this group. If someone
catches an
| interesting show it would be easy to tape it and send it into the library
for
| all to enjoy. Especially those who do not have access to some of the
satellite
| channels. Maybe one of the lawyers on the list could address the
copyright
| situation but my guess is that if the tapes were not for sale, there would
not
| be a problem. I would be happy to volunteer as the 'librarian' to get the
ball
| rolling. Any interest? JL
|
|
From "James Shope" <healeymanjim at JoiMail.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2003 07:54:32 -0700
Subject: paradise
From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2003 10:24:14 -0500
Subject: Re: TV Library
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2003 11:46:54 -0700
Subject: Re: paradise
I assume that you have tried a very small pair of needle nose pliers or
something like a hemostat to try and grab the broken piece.
If you need to, the entire speedo pinion assembly can be removed from the
overdrive rear housing 'in the car', (although it'll still be the same
problem, just on the bench instead).
There is a locating bolt and copper washer on top of the case - remove it,
and the pinion assembly should simply pull out of the overdrive, sometimes
with a bit of effort as there are 1 or 2 o-ring seals involved. No need to
drain the oil to do this, although you'll get a momentary dribble when it
comes out. If it resists, you may want to attatch the damaged angle drive
and pull on it to save the threads on the pinion.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
PS: I live on an island, a big one - about 300 miles long, and really don't
mind. I guess maybe it depends on the circumstaces in which you were on
those islands all those years ago. We consider our corner of the world here
in the North American Pacific northwest (some of us in Canada, some in the
US), to be 'paradise' - we are fortunate to be able to live here.
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Shope" <healeymanjim@joimail.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 18, 2003 7:54 AM
Subject: paradise
i will argue with ron davis who said somoa and tahiti ar paradise. having
spent 18 months on a south seas island as a young enlisted man about 40
years
ago, i don't even like to go to hawaii because they are islands. i have had
enough rain, humidity and typhoons to last me a lifetime. someone else can
go
in my place. seriously, if have a problem. the angle drive on my friends
bn2
sheared off right where it enters the transmission. any ideas on how to
rermove the stem which is still inside without removing the trans and
drillling it out. any help will be appreciated. healeymanjim.
From Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2003 11:41:20 -0700
Subject: positive ground distributor
From "Jim LeBlanc" <jleblanc at midsouth.rr.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2003 17:59:53 -0500
Subject: RE: Getting Ready for Paint - Need some adxice
I had the restoration shop paint the inner fenders and all the unseen
surfaces with body color. Close inspection of a quality job pleases me
and on occasion others of the saem school also enjoy noting the good
work.
In my opinion do this extra paint to please yourself. I highly recommend
best work even in the unseen places. In the case of my car, yes the
chassis is painted body color and color sanded. The interior of the
engine compartment is color sanded and clear coated. It really is too
much, but it is what I wanted.
Best Regards,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Kenny Johnson
Sent: Friday, October 17, 2003 7:52 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Getting Ready for Paint - Need some adxice
Now that I have my engine running, it is time to re-fit the body and
paint.
I need some paint advise. Can anyone tell me if I should (since the
body is
off the chassis) paint the inner section of all the fenders, both
shrouds
and both doors? Or am I wasting paint since it won't been seen?
Thanks.
Anyone have paint codes for Healey Blue?
Kenny
From "Greg Wilkinson" <gregwilkinson at adelphia.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2003 16:25:32 -0700
Subject: Moss carpet kit install
Thanks,
Greg
67 BJ8
From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2003 20:30:22 -0400
Subject: Mail
tom
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2003 19:55:26 -0600
Subject: Re: Mail
I don't think that there has been a lot of traffic lately. You can check
your received mails against the log which is fairly up to date & see if
you are missing anything.
http://www.team.net/html_arc/healeys/200310/index.html
Dave Russell
tom felts wrote:
> What's happening to the Healey mail? I get maybe 10 a day--and I know
> there are many more than that sent out. Is it me or others having some
> problems also?
>
> tom
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2003 20:24:27 -0600
Subject: Re: Mail PS
Tom,
I just got to thinking, a lot of people seem to be using private replies
lately. Don't know exactly why, maybe they are just bashful or just
going on the idea of saving band width. What ever the reason, we never
see the results or get any feed back on the final solution to the
problem. This makes the list a one way info channel which often leaves
some wondering what happened.
I also notice queries which are left hanging with no apparent responses.
It appears that the more inane the topic the more responses. Maybe the
people who have serious answers have given up or are tired of repeating
the same answers, & just don't respond anymore.
To make matters worse, the archive search only goes back part way &
leaves out many older topics which could be of real help to some of the
newer folks & would save having to repeat the answers for each new
person. To be direct, I am very disappointed in the limited usefulness
of the archives lately. If Mark B. could comment on the archive problem
I would be grateful. I know that he makes a very low key mention of
donations about once a year But if I knew what he "really" needs I would
be happy to help.
Dave Russell
BN2
tom felts wrote:
> What's happening to the Healey mail? I get maybe 10 a day--and I know
> there are many more than that sent out. Is it me or others having some
> problems also?
>
> tom
From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2003 22:54:10 EDT
Subject: Re: TV Library
John
Oostburg, WI
Home of:
1960 Austin Healey 3000
1960 Austin Mini 850 (with 1380, lowered, etc)
1957 BMW Isetta 300
1969 Austin America
1980 Triumph TR7
1939 Dodge business coupe (patiently awaiting rebirth)
2003 Mini Cooper S (get one of these!)
From "Greg Wilkinson" <gregwilkinson at adelphia.net>
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2003 20:22:09 -0700
Subject: RE: TV Library
> -----Original Message-----
>
> Check out your local public tv listings for the show "Anything I Can Do",
> it's a sort of humorous handyperson/craft show. It's hosted by
> a lady named Mag
> or Meg, or? and she drives up in a Healey blue BJ8 and then pulls
> it in her
> workshop and works on some wacky project like making a fountain
> out of a flower
> pot. Every once in a while she writes some lame/humor poetry stuff.
> You'll have to watch it to understand.
> You can check it out at www.anythingicando.com
>
>
>
>
> John
>
> Oostburg, WI
> Home of:
> 1960 Austin Healey 3000
> 1960 Austin Mini 850 (with 1380, lowered, etc)
> 1957 BMW Isetta 300
> 1969 Austin America
> 1980 Triumph TR7
> 1939 Dodge business coupe (patiently awaiting rebirth)
> 2003 Mini Cooper S (get one of these!)
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2003 23:24:37 -0400
Subject: Re: Moss carpet kit install
The inner Al trim and the Furflex pretty well cover the top of the sill, so
you only need to go to the top of it. Cannot identify the 12x18 right off
hand.
Keith Pennell
> Hi Folks,
> I laid out my carpet today and had a few questions. There are 2 long
strips
> 8 inches by 60 inches or so that seem to go along the sill. How high up
the
> sill do they go? I'm guessing that they don't wrap around the top of the
> sill. I also received a rectangular piece about 12 inches by 18 inches.
This
> piece doesn't show up on the diagram. I'd call Moss , but I don't think
> their tech guys work on the weekend.
>
> Thanks,
> Greg
> 67 BJ8
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at sbcglobal.net>
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2003 20:35:38 -0700
Subject: Re: [Fwd: Re: Mail PS]
::I just got to thinking, a lot of people seem to be using private replies
::lately. Don't know exactly why, maybe they are just bashful or just
::going on the idea of saving band width. What ever the reason, we never
::see the results or get any feed back on the final solution to the
::problem. This makes the list a one way info channel which often leaves
::some wondering what happened.
I am one of the people who uses private replies to questions when I
don't think my comment has general usefulness or the subject has been
covered several times before. In addition, I am motivated to use
private replies in order to minimize the amount of spam I receive. I
have noticed that in the past my volume of spam increased within a day
or two of posting even to this list. Thus someone/something must
sweep even the archives of the healeys list searching for new email
addresses. I am willing to pay that price for the valuable nature of
the List, but don't want to do it for 'nothing'.
If I think I have learned something or know something that a number of
others do not, then I post it to the list. If it is something like a
new Healey owner asking where to buy parts, I am inclined just to
respond to that person.
I agree that a more complete archive would be helpful. I would be
very willing to provide a bit of financial assistance if that would
make it possible.
-Roland
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2003 21:02:20 -0700
Subject: Re: Mail
Terry Blubaugh
tom felts wrote:
>What's happening to the Healey mail? I get maybe 10 a day--and I know
>there are many more than that sent out. Is it me or others having some
>problems also?
>
>tom
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2003 22:38:27 -0600
Subject: Re: TV Library
The program was produced in Toronto, Ontario, for the Woman's Channel (Ch
21) in
Canada. The BJ8 that was used as a prop in the program was Michael
Salter's. I
think I'm correct in stating that the program is no longer in production
but in
light of your comments it looks like an American cable company picked up
the
rights. I believe that Mike sold his BJ8 late last year.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
'65 BJ8
'89 Morgan 4/4
Greg Wilkinson wrote:
> If you follow on that link then click on Mag's car Michael Salter's name
> pops up. What was the involvement?
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> >
> > Check out your local public tv listings for the show "Anything I Can Do",
> > it's a sort of humorous handyperson/craft show. It's hosted by
> > a lady named Mag
> > or Meg, or? and she drives up in a Healey blue BJ8 and then pulls
> > it in her
> > workshop and works on some wacky project like making a fountain
> > out of a flower
> > pot. Every once in a while she writes some lame/humor poetry stuff.
> > You'll have to watch it to understand.
> > You can check it out at www.anythingicando.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > John
> >
> > Oostburg, WI
> > Home of:
> > 1960 Austin Healey 3000
> > 1960 Austin Mini 850 (with 1380, lowered, etc)
> > 1957 BMW Isetta 300
> > 1969 Austin America
> > 1980 Triumph TR7
> > 1939 Dodge business coupe (patiently awaiting rebirth)
> > 2003 Mini Cooper S (get one of these!)
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2003 22:37:39 -0600
Subject: Re: [Fwd: Re: Mail PS]
I have taken the same approach as you for many of the same reasons. I've also
posted the odd question in which there has been no response. As to donating to
the maintenance of the List I have, much like purchasing the Texas Kooler, the
List is run by a volunteer, using much of his own equipment as well as the
equipment at the university where he works. We should be grateful for his
efforts and just not pay lip service to his understated request for support.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
Roland Wilhelmy wrote:
> On Sat, 18 Oct 2003 20:29:06 -0600, Dave wrote:
>
> ::I just got to thinking, a lot of people seem to be using private replies
> ::lately. Don't know exactly why, maybe they are just bashful or just
> ::going on the idea of saving band width. What ever the reason, we never
> ::see the results or get any feed back on the final solution to the
> ::problem. This makes the list a one way info channel which often leaves
> ::some wondering what happened.
>
> I am one of the people who uses private replies to questions when I
> don't think my comment has general usefulness or the subject has been
> covered several times before. In addition, I am motivated to use
> private replies in order to minimize the amount of spam I receive. I
> have noticed that in the past my volume of spam increased within a day
> or two of posting even to this list. Thus someone/something must
> sweep even the archives of the healeys list searching for new email
> addresses. I am willing to pay that price for the valuable nature of
> the List, but don't want to do it for 'nothing'.
>
> If I think I have learned something or know something that a number of
> others do not, then I post it to the list. If it is something like a
> new Healey owner asking where to buy parts, I am inclined just to
> respond to that person.
>
> I agree that a more complete archive would be helpful. I would be
> very willing to provide a bit of financial assistance if that would
> make it possible.
>
> -Roland
From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2003 08:00:49 -0400
Subject: Re: Mail
> [Original Message]
> From: <HealeyRic2@aol.com>
> To: <tomfelts@earthlink.net ("tom felts")>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 10/18/03 10:38:37 PM
> Subject: Re: Mail
>
> Tom,
>
> I'm having the same problem It's affecting my receipts from the
Spridgets list as well and there are always tons of messages there daily.
For a while, AOL subscribers were h aving their list mail screened out as
spam, but since you're on earthlink, I doubt that's the problem. I sent an
email to Mark to see if he's aware of the problem. I'll let you know when
he responds.
>
> Happy Healeying,
> Rick
>
>
>
> In a message dated 10/18/2003 8:30:22 PM Eastern Daylight Time, "tom
felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net> writes:
>
> >What's happening to the Healey mail? I get maybe 10 a day--and I know
> >there are many more than that sent out. Is it me or others having some
> >problems also?
From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2003 08:07:03 -0400
Subject: RE: TV Library
> [Original Message]
> From: Greg Wilkinson <gregwilkinson@adelphia.net>
> To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 10/18/03 11:22:24 PM
> Subject: RE: TV Library
>
> If you follow on that link then click on Mag's car Michael Salter's name
> pops up. What was the involvement?
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> >
> > Check out your local public tv listings for the show "Anything I Can
Do",
> > it's a sort of humorous handyperson/craft show. It's hosted by
> > a lady named Mag
> > or Meg, or? and she drives up in a Healey blue BJ8 and then pulls
> > it in her
> > workshop and works on some wacky project like making a fountain
> > out of a flower
> > pot. Every once in a while she writes some lame/humor poetry stuff.
> > You'll have to watch it to understand.
> > You can check it out at www.anythingicando.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > John
From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2003 08:09:16 -0400
Subject: Mail---#2
tom
From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2003 05:19:02 -0700
Subject: Re: TV Library
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: MOWOGMAN@aol.com
To: clocks@midcoast.com ; healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Saturday, October 18, 2003 7:54 PM
Subject: Re: TV Library
Check out your local public tv listings for the show "Anything I Can Do",
it's a sort of humorous handyperson/craft show. It's hosted by a lady
named Mag
or Meg, or? and she drives up in a Healey blue BJ8 and then pulls it in her
workshop and works on some wacky project like making a fountain out of a
flower
pot. Every once in a while she writes some lame/humor poetry stuff.
You'll have to watch it to understand.
You can check it out at www.anythingicando.com
John
Oostburg, WI
Home of:
1960 Austin Healey 3000
1960 Austin Mini 850 (with 1380, lowered, etc)
1957 BMW Isetta 300
1969 Austin America
1980 Triumph TR7
1939 Dodge business coupe (patiently awaiting rebirth)
2003 Mini Cooper S (get one of these!)
From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2003 05:34:23 -0700
Subject: Re: Mail
Long-time list members know that there is a cycle to participation. Some
names show up frequently for a while on the list, then they disappear or only
show up rarely (Editorgary, Reid Trummel, Michael Oritt come to mind. When is
the last time anyone saw a response from Roger Moment?). Perhaps they have
seen all the questions and provided or heard all the answers, and then the
same ones come around again.
There appears to be a whole different set of participants over on the British
Car Forum.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
tom felts wrote:
>What's happening to the Healey mail? I get maybe 10 a day--and I know
>there are many more than that sent out. Is it me or others having some
>problems also?
>
>tom
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2003 07:42:28 -0500
Subject: Re: Mail
Smile Steve... good morning... it's good to see your name pop up now and
again...
Keith
----- Original Message -----
From: "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 19, 2003 7:34 AM
Subject: Re: Mail
> I have noted that the list traffic always drops way off on the weekend. I
> interpret that to mean that most of our list members are doing this stuff
at
> work. Perhaps on the weekend, they have too many other things to do away
from
> the computer. It's also possible that the traffic is delayed on the
weekend
> for some reason (server maintenance?).
>
> Long-time list members know that there is a cycle to participation. Some
> names show up frequently for a while on the list, then they disappear or
only
> show up rarely (Editorgary, Reid Trummel, Michael Oritt come to mind.
When is
> the last time anyone saw a response from Roger Moment?). Perhaps they
have
> seen all the questions and provided or heard all the answers, and then the
> same ones come around again.
> There appears to be a whole different set of participants over on the
British
> Car Forum.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC USA
>
> tom felts wrote:
>
> >What's happening to the Healey mail? I get maybe 10 a day--and I know
> >there are many more than that sent out. Is it me or others having some
> >problems also?
From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2003 09:08:49 -0400
Subject: Re: Moss carpet kit install
The 12X18 piece sounds like it would be for the underdash parcel tray,
except a BJ8 doesn't have one. Is the carpet set specific for a BJ8, or
does it cover multiple models?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Wilkinson" <gregwilkinson@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 18, 2003 7:25 PM
Subject: Moss carpet kit install
> Hi Folks,
> I laid out my carpet today and had a few questions. There are 2 long
strips
> 8 inches by 60 inches or so that seem to go along the sill. How high up
the
> sill do they go? I'm guessing that they don't wrap around the top of the
> sill. I also received a rectangular piece about 12 inches by 18 inches.
This
> piece doesn't show up on the diagram. I'd call Moss , but I don't think
> their tech guys work on the weekend.
>
> Thanks,
> Greg
> 67 BJ8
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2003 09:41:12 -0400
Subject: Re: Moss carpet kit install
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@cox.net>
To: "Greg Wilkinson" <gregwilkinson@adelphia.net>; "Healey List"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 18, 2003 11:24 PM
Subject: Re: Moss carpet kit install
> Greg,
>
> The inner Al trim and the Furflex pretty well cover the top of the sill,
so
> you only need to go to the top of it. Cannot identify the 12x18 right off
> hand.
>
> Keith Pennell
>
>
> > Hi Folks,
> > I laid out my carpet today and had a few questions. There are 2 long
> strips
> > 8 inches by 60 inches or so that seem to go along the sill. How high up
> the
> > sill do they go? I'm guessing that they don't wrap around the top of the
> > sill. I also received a rectangular piece about 12 inches by 18 inches.
> This
> > piece doesn't show up on the diagram. I'd call Moss , but I don't think
> > their tech guys work on the weekend.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Greg
> > 67 BJ8
From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2003 08:46:23 -0500
Subject: Fw: Mail---#2
From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2003 10:13:07 -0400
Subject: Healey Sighting
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2003 09:31:40 -0700
Subject: Re: Moss carpet kit install
Sounds like the piece that fits into the parcel tray.
Cheers,
John
Greg Wilkinson wrote:
>I also received a rectangular piece about 12 inches by 18 inches. This
>piece doesn't show up on the diagram.
From Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2003 09:47:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: BJ8 ignition missing & puking coolant
---------------------------------
The New Yahoo! Shopping - with improved product search
From LarryRPH at aol.com
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2003 13:02:23 EDT
Subject: Re: BJ8 ignition missing & puking coolant
DID YOU REPLACE THE DISTRIBUTOR CAP AND SPARK PLUG WIRES? i HAD THAT SAME
SORT OF THING WITH A DISTRIBUTOR CAP THAT HAD A WEAK CARBON BRUSH AND SPRING .
AS FAR AS THE PUKING- MY BN 6 DOES THAT - FROTH THRU THE OVERFLOW AFTER
LONGER TRIPS. I HAVE NEVER BEEN ABLE TO STOP IT AND HAVE COME TO THE
CONCLUSION
THAT I HAVE A PINHOLE LEAK (S) SOMWHERE AROUND THE HEAD GASKET. JUST KEEP
YOUR
EYE ON THE ANTI-FREEZE LEVELS.
LARRY WYSOCKI
BN 6
BJ 7
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2003 12:37:27 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8 ignition missing & puking coolant
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2003 10:51:27 -0700
Subject: Re: Moss carpet kit install
I overlooked that you have a BJ8. Therefore, I think the 12" x 18"
carpet is for the Parcel Shelf/Tray on the BJ7 but Moss lists the BJ7
and BJ8 Phase 1 as the same part number (248-870). Is this what you
ordered? Does the BJ8 have carpet inside the glove box? Do you know
anyone who needs a toupee?
Cheers,
John
From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2003 13:49:54 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8 ignition missing & puking coolant
Cheap aftermarket kits are available and recommended by some to remedy this
situation. If you don't like the lok of the clear plastic bottles on the
aftermarket kit the handy little metal bottle from post '68 or so sprites
and midgets should be available from a british car boneyard.
Check to see where the coolant is coming out, usually not too hard to figure
out.
Happy Healeying
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 19, 2003 12:37 PM
Subject: Re: BJ8 ignition missing & puking coolant
> why not close the cooling system using one of the inexpensive kits at any
auto supply store ? the cavity on the rh side of the engine compartment
makes a perfect location for the bottle.
> LarryRPH@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > Jorge,
> >
> > DID YOU REPLACE THE DISTRIBUTOR CAP AND SPARK PLUG WIRES? i HAD THAT
SAME
> > SORT OF THING WITH A DISTRIBUTOR CAP THAT HAD A WEAK CARBON BRUSH AND
SPRING .
> >
> > AS FAR AS THE PUKING- MY BN 6 DOES THAT - FROTH THRU THE OVERFLOW AFTER
> > LONGER TRIPS. I HAVE NEVER BEEN ABLE TO STOP IT AND HAVE COME TO THE
CONCLUSION
> > THAT I HAVE A PINHOLE LEAK (S) SOMWHERE AROUND THE HEAD GASKET. JUST
KEEP YOUR
> > EYE ON THE ANTI-FREEZE LEVELS.
> >
> > LARRY WYSOCKI
> >
> > BN 6
> > BJ 7
> >
> > **
From "Ron Davies" <rdavies1 at cox.net>
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2003 13:22:47 -0700
Subject: RE: Moss carpet kit install
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at sbcglobal.net>
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2003 15:36:40 -0700
Subject: Re: BJ8 ignition missing & puking coolant
::About the coolant puking: After driving or just running the engine for a
:while it will puke coolant after shut down. The temparature stays steady at 90
:degrees celcius while driving, and yes, my car has metric gauges.
::Thanks for your help
::Jorge
Jorge-
Assuming that you mean that coolant comes out the overflow tube, maybe
you just have too much coolant in your radiator. The level should be
about 1" below the bottom of the neck. My BJ7 hasn't 'puked' in
several years, despite being driven in 100 plus (F) weather uphill
under load, and slowly in traffic and parked soon after.
If you let it puke down to 1" below and don't refill, maybe your
coolant problem will cure itself ;-)
I removed a coolant recovery system from this car after an engine
rebuild and radiator restoration several years ago and haven't missed
it since. I use the space in the fender wells to store spare oil for
long trips.
-Roland
From James Minot <healeyrick at yahoo.com>
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2003 16:26:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: test - please delete
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2003 19:04:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Moss carpet kit install
That piece is probably spare carpet to cover the two
radius arm mounting boxes located at the bottom of
both rear kick panels on each side. (you have a phase
2 right?)
There is no parcel shelf in a BJ8 (phase 1 or 2). The
carpet kits for BJ7 and phase 1 BJ8 are the same
because the rear axle uses a panhard rod, not radius
arms like the phase 2. In the case of the BJ8 phase 1
you'd toss the spare carpet piece for the parcel tray.
The carpets are the same for BJ7 & BJ8/Ph1, but the
interiors are different.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- John Loftus <loftusdesign@cox.net> wrote:
> Greg,
>
> I overlooked that you have a BJ8. Therefore, I think
> the 12" x 18"
> carpet is for the Parcel Shelf/Tray on the BJ7 but
> Moss lists the BJ7
> and BJ8 Phase 1 as the same part number (248-870).
> Is this what you
> ordered? Does the BJ8 have carpet inside the glove
> box? Do you know
> anyone who needs a toupee?
>
> Cheers,
> John
From "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl>
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2003 11:43:09 +0200
Subject: Radius arm fixing point
From "Paul Negus" <Paul.Negus at iplbath.com>
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2003 16:29:13 +0100
Subject: Re cats and storage
Regards
Paul
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2003 08:03:24 -0500
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
Subject: Re cats and storage
I have received mixed results from my cat in the anti-mouse department.
<snip>
Also, her favorite place in the ENTIRE WORLD to sleep is on top of
convertible tops, so I now have long grey hairs on the black tops of
both the BJ7 and an Alfa.
<snip>
Graham
From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2003 13:35:40 -0400
Subject: BJ8 Registry
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2003 14:10:38 -0500
Subject: Manual Question
Was this manual ever redone or simplified or did they just wait until the
3000 Bt7 manual was brought out? Now thats good reading.
Mark,
58-MGA
60-MGA
76-MGB
74.5-MGBGT
60-BT7
From James E Austin <ahbugeye1 at juno.com>
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2003 18:13:00 -0400
Subject: dipper switch wiring harness route on BJ7.
From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2003 18:27:08 -0400
Subject: Test
From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2003 18:34:57 -0400
Subject: BJ8's murky history
Hi Steve,
Well, it's been a long time since I was last in touch concerning my
BJ8's numbers and history.
As I've recently done a bit of digging, I thought I'd share the
results; it may help you if you're doing any research on a car that's
been through the Quebec Ministry of Transport.
Just to refresh your memory, my car had a Province of Quebec VIN tag
riveted to the firewall to put it back on the road legitimately after
being stolen. All this happened before my time.
I was left with no engine #, or any other numbers in the appropriate
locations; axle, shock tower, etc.
The Quebec tag's number, however, looked just like the numerical
portion of a Bj8 serial #, that being "31461".
So, I had my brother in law (who speaks French fluently) make
inquiries about the procedure involved in coming up with the number
that appears on the tag. My pet theory being that they used the
original number without the Prefix "HBJ8L".
After you read his findings below, you'll understand why my last
resort is to write to Gaydon, and see what they have for HBJ8L 31461.
If it's a green car with black interior, shipped to Canada, or the
Eastern U.S., I may finally have a legitimate number; then again, I
suppose there will always be some doubt!
Regards,
Stephen Hutchings
Peter Rhiem wrote:
Unfortunately, once a VIN record is inactive for more than 10 years, it is
wiped off their computer system. If you had registered the vehicle in
Quebec, the computer file would still be readily accessible. But the really
bad news is that there were a lot of paper and microfilm documents lost in a
fire in the records dept in Quebec City sometime in the early 80s, so it
seems unlikely you'd be able to follow this up with a paper trail. The fire
was probably orchestrated by some Montreal Mafioso who destroyed the records
of a car that now resides at the bottom of the St. Lawrence river - with its
driver still at the wheel...
But here's some other info: All vehicles registered in Quebec since 1980
have a 17-character alpha/numeric VIN #. Prior to that, there were different
numbering systems used usually involving an 11-character alpha numeric, so
this one is definitely irregular. However, there was really no universal
system to create or keep track of the car's #s, so it would have a number
particular to each issuing office. So without the paper back-up that was
presumably lost in the fire, there seems to be no system to indicate where
it was issued or what the numbering sequence was at that time.
As you say, you could draw the conclusion that this number was used because
it was a derivative of the original but that is not the definitive answer
you're looking for. I thought that even without this particular car's
records, we still might be able to narrow the odds by either confirming or
contradicting the sequence of other vehicles registered in that era. But no
confirmation of these number patterns from the 70s seems to be available.
Everyone I talked to mentioned going back to the manufacturer's records but
I assume you have done as much as you could to follow that up using your own
resources.
From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2003 18:57:20 -0400
Subject: First Drive!!!
Thanks,
Mick Vander Ploeg
57 BN4 - Almost done.
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2003 19:09:27 EDT
Subject: Re: First Drive!!!
From Bill Pollock <wjpollock at erols.com>
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2003 18:31:58 -0400
Subject: test
From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2003 19:23:00 -0400
Subject: Test#2 Please ignore
From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2003 19:26:21 -0400
Subject: RE:RE:BJ8 Registry
From Doug Miller <enginem at earthlink.net>
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2003 16:32:41 -0700
Subject: BN4L 73663
From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2003 19:01:30 -0500
Subject: Falcon SS Exhaust Downpipes
Thanks
Patton
-------------------------------------
Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
Austin-Healey BN4
For Sale - 1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert
From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2003 19:01:48 -0500
Subject: Boot Lid
Being picky
Patton
-------------------------------------
Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
Austin-Healey BN4
For Sale - 1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert
From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2003 19:41:36 -0500
Subject: Great message in the archive...
http://www.team.net/html_arc/british-cars/199311/msg00245.html
Patton
-------------------------------------
Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
Austin-Healey BN4
For Sale - 1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2003 20:16:03 -0500
Subject: Manual Question, Again
Mark
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2003 18:36:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: First Drive!!!
If the steering is heavy, make sure your tires have
full pressure in them - this can make a big
difference. Fat tires (i.e. larger than 165s) can
make the car have heavy steering too.
The most important thing to check is does the steering
return to center when you let go of the wheel in a
turn, or does it stay in place? If it says in place,
or is very slow to return to center, it is more than
likely the adjustor on the box is too tight. If it
returns to center... then it's probably a tire thing.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Mick VanderPloeg <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com> wrote:
> I hit a major milestone in my restoration yesterday
> as my BN4 left the garage
> under it's own power and took me up the street and
> back. Runs great & stops
> great, but the steering is extremely tight. I know
> it's manual steering, but
> I really had to yank on the wheel to make it turn at
> all. The entire front
> end has been rebuilt, including the steering box,
> and everything's lubed
> appropriately. Is this as simple as loosening the
> adjusting screw on the
> steering box?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mick Vander Ploeg
> 57 BN4 - Almost done.
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2003 18:52:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Falcon SS Exhaust Downpipes
They should be as they are built to factory spec.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Patton Dickson <kpdii@earthlink.net> wrote:
> Does anyone know if the downpipes from the Falcon
> Stainless Steel Exhaust
> system for my BN4 are interchangeable with the stock
> mild steel system?
>
> Thanks
> Patton
>
> -------------------------------------
> Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
> Austin-Healey BN4
>
> For Sale - 1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2003 22:01:56 EDT
Subject: Re: BN4L 73663
From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2003 21:14:41 -0500
Subject: Fwd: RE: Getting Ready for Paint - Need some adxice
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
63 BJ-7
Sturgeon Bay, WI.
From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2003 22:18:11 -0400
Subject: test
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2003 23:50:25 -0400
Subject: Re: BJ8 ignition missing & puking coolant
1000s of these cars ran for many many miles and years without need of an
overflow. Why not search out the cause of the puking and remedy that? My
suggestion would the same as Roland.
My .02
Keith Pennell
> On Sun, 19 Oct 2003 09:47:54 -0700 (PDT), you wrote:
>
> ::About the coolant puking: After driving or just running the engine for a
while it will puke coolant after shut down. The temparature stays steady at
90 degrees celcius while driving, and yes, my car has metric gauges.
> ::Thanks for your help
> ::Jorge
>
> Jorge-
> Assuming that you mean that coolant comes out the overflow tube, maybe
> you just have too much coolant in your radiator. The level should be
> about 1" below the bottom of the neck. My BJ7 hasn't 'puked' in
> several years, despite being driven in 100 plus (F) weather uphill
> under load, and slowly in traffic and parked soon after.
>
> If you let it puke down to 1" below and don't refill, maybe your
> coolant problem will cure itself ;-)
>
> I removed a coolant recovery system from this car after an engine
> rebuild and radiator restoration several years ago and haven't missed
> it since. I use the space in the fender wells to store spare oil for
> long trips.
>
> -Roland
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at sbcglobal.net>
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2003 21:37:19 -0700
Subject: a thought about 'test' messages
-Roland
From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2003 05:57:43 EDT
Subject: Re: Overdrive very slow to disengage
> I've been watching responses to the OD question but haven't seen one that
> might apply to my own OD problem. Electrics seem OK and on shifting up
> through the gears can feel OD in 3rd come on. However, I seem to have no OD
>in
> 4th. In downshifting from 4th to 3rd, I can again feel the OD kick in. From
> what (little) I know of the transmission switch, OD should operate in both
>3rd
> and 4th.
>
> The only other diagnostic clue I have is that once I've started the car and
> switched on the OD at the dash, I've got it in 3rd until I shut the car
> off--the drivers switch doesn't affect operation of the OD. Am I making a
>rash
> assumption that my electrics are "OK" or do I have a more mechanically based
> problem to deal with?
>
As long as it stays out of reverse whilst still inO|D, you'll have something
with bits big enough to fix!
As to the 4th gear 3rd gear question, I'll leave that to wiser heads than
mine, but it sounds as if your electrics may be out big time. Or it's a
pressure
thing...can you make it get into )/D in 4th if you get the revs up to where
they are in 3rd when the O/D comes on?
Simon
From "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER at netl.doe.gov>
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2003 09:45:12 -0400
Subject: Re: First Drive!!!
I will defer to the experts on this topic but I would suggest that if
you raise the front of the car so that the steering column slants
backward ever so slightly, those rear bearings may not come unseated and
you could replace the shims WITHOUT removing the entire steering
column.
Randy Cooper
w/recently shimmed BT7 steering box
>>> "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com> 10/20/03 06:57PM >>>
I hit a major milestone in my restoration yesterday as my BN4 left the
garage
under it's own power and took me up the street and back. Runs great &
stops
great, but the steering is extremely tight. I know it's manual
steering, but
I really had to yank on the wheel to make it turn at all. The entire
front
end has been rebuilt, including the steering box, and everything's
lubed
appropriately. Is this as simple as loosening the adjusting screw on
the
steering box?
Thanks,
Mick Vander Ploeg
57 BN4 - Almost done.
From "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid at hotmail.com>
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2003 15:28:49 +0000
Subject: FOR SALE: Set of 3 Superslim Spanners for AH 100
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2438707699
Reid Trummel
Portland, Oregon
100, 100M, Bugeye, Ski-Master
___________ ____________
\__________ \_____________/ ___________/
\_______ ________/
\_____ AUSTIN-HEALEY ______/
\_______________________/
_________________________________________________________________
Fast, faster, fastest: Upgrade to Cable or DSL today!
https://broadband.msn.com
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2003 09:49:13 -0600
Subject: Re: Overdrive very slow to disengage
http://www.team.net/www/healey/tech/big_hly/od/adj_trblsht_od.html
http://www.team.net/www/healey/tech/big_hly/od/t-sw-adj.html
http://www.team.net/www/healey/tech/big_hly/od/delborder_od.html
Dave Russell
BN2
Simonlachlan@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 14/10/2003 20:18:28 GMT Daylight Time,
> RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov writes:
>
>
>>I've been watching responses to the OD question but haven't seen one that
>>might apply to my own OD problem. Electrics seem OK and on shifting up
>>through the gears can feel OD in 3rd come on. However, I seem to have no OD
>in
>>4th. In downshifting from 4th to 3rd, I can again feel the OD kick in. From
>>what (little) I know of the transmission switch, OD should operate in both
>3rd
>>and 4th.
>>
>>The only other diagnostic clue I have is that once I've started the car and
>>switched on the OD at the dash, I've got it in 3rd until I shut the car
>>off--the drivers switch doesn't affect operation of the OD. Am I making a
>rash
>>assumption that my electrics are "OK" or do I have a more mechanically based
>>problem to deal with?
>>
>
>
> As long as it stays out of reverse whilst still inO|D, you'll have something
> with bits big enough to fix!
> As to the 4th gear 3rd gear question, I'll leave that to wiser heads than
> mine, but it sounds as if your electrics may be out big time. Or it's a
>pressure
> thing...can you make it get into )/D in 4th if you get the revs up to where
> they are in 3rd when the O/D comes on?
> Simon
From "Ron Fine Esq." <RonFineEsq at earthlink.net>
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2003 09:18:17 -0700
Subject: Re: BJ8 ignition missing & puking coolant
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2003 16:27:57 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8 ignition missing & puking coolant
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sasktel.net>
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2003 16:02:06 -0600
Subject: Test
From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2003 08:53:00 EDT
Subject: Propshaft to O/D line up and sidessecreens
How do you all stop your sidescreens from rattling against each other?
Simon.
From "" <dsarah6 at excite.com>
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2003 10:02:10 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Moss Steering Wheel
_______________________________________________
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2003 08:14:34 -0600
Subject: Propshaft to O/D line up and sidessecreens
> I have a Mk II BT7.
> I had my O/D rebuilt recently, virtually all the internals replaced.
> So, how important is it to get the same line up/connection to the
propshaft
> as before? I think the disassembly has made that impossible as I'm not at
all
> sure that the O/D's "Driving flange" was put back in the same position as
it
> was prior to disassembly.
> 1) Does it matter?
> 2) If it does matter, could it account for a slight vibration which I seem
to
> be getting from that area when I take my foot off the accelerator?
From =?iso-8859-1?q?Paul=20Baker?= <paulbaker51 at yahoo.co.uk>
From: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2003 19:10:13 +0100 (BST)
Subject: Works big healeys
---------------------------------
Want to chat instantly with your online friends? Get the FREE Yahoo!Messenger
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2003 13:07:33 -0500
Subject: Is Anybody Out There?
Wow, where'd everybody go?
I'm begining to think my internet carrier is wiping out all my Healey stuff
thinking its Spam.
Please say it ain't true :((((((((
Mark,
58-MGA
60-MGA
76-MGB
74.5-MGBGT
60-BT7
From David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
From: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2003 11:16:35 -0700
Subject: Re: Propshaft to O/D line up and sidessecreens
From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2003 14:50:57 -0400
Subject: RE: Is Anybody Out There?
tom
> [Original Message]
> From: Mark and kathy LaPierre <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 10/22/03 2:07:16 PM
> Subject: Is Anybody Out There?
>
> If you have been driving your Healey or joined another list raise your
hand.
>
> Wow, where'd everybody go?
>
> I'm begining to think my internet carrier is wiping out all my Healey
stuff
> thinking its Spam.
> Please say it ain't true :((((((((
From "Vink, Graham" <vinkg at fleishman.com>
From: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2003 14:28:43 -0500
Subject: RE: Works big healeys
www.powells.com , then search for your title (which they don't have; I
just checked), then click on the "notify me" button.
I've bought quite a few used auto books from them ... Cheaper, too!
Graham
From "norman cay" <normcay at earthlink.net>
From: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2003 09:51:17 -0700
Subject: Propshaft to O/D line up and sidessecreens
>>
> How do you all stop your sidescreens from rattling against each other?
>
> Simon.
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2003 16:19:24 -0400
Subject: Re: Moss Steering Wheel
Don't know about Moss. Bought mine from Healey Surgeons 4 or so years ago.
The first looked just like orig but was out of round and had a wobble to it.
Returned it to Inan and she gave me another. It is just fine.
Keith Pennell
> Has anyone purchased a reproduction 3000 steering wheel from Moss? How
does the finish and look compare to the original?After having my original
restored in 1980, the wheel is now cracked again, and I am wondering if it
is worth restoring again or buying a new one from Moss.Thanks,Nick
From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2003 17:01:32 -0400
Subject: Re: Works big healeys
From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
From: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2003 14:06:09 -0700
Subject: Healey & Back Pain
A few weeks ago on a sunny Saturday, my son and I drove our BN7 south to
Monterey from our home in Boulder Creek. The total miles driven (round
trip) was about 150.
The car ran great, and the trip was a blast, yet after returning home my
lower back started to hurt. I had the same back pain after driving the car
in the rally up in Eureka at HR2003 in July.
It's taken weeks for my back to return (almost) to normal.
My question is this, for those of you who have had similar experience with
lower back pain from driving your Healeys, what have you done to improve the
ride, or improve the back support?
Cheers,
Frank
1960 BN7 # 10610
PS. Selling the car is not an option!
From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2003 17:53:31 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Radiator Caps
I recently obtained the Gates 7lb rated cap which measures 3-11/32" across and
1-13/32" deep which
fits 1" deep neck. This cap, together with a recorded rad with an extra row
and filling the fluid
to within only about 1" of the neck bottom, results in no puking. I used to
have this problem,
but no more.
--Scott [62 3000 BT7 Tricarb-driver; 60 3000 BN7-project]
************************************************************************************************
Date : Tue, 21 Oct 2003 09:18:17 -0700
>From : "Ron Fine Esq." <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To : "Roland Wilhelmy" <rwil@sbcglobal.net>, "Jorge Garcia"
<fortee9er@yahoo.com>, "Austin
Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: BJ8 ignition missing & puking coolant
Jorge, I solved the puking problem on my BN7 and my 66 MGB by simply finding
the correct radiator
cap. Once you install the correct cap you should not have any more problems
unless the pressure
is over the 7 lb. rating of the cap. You need to find a cap that is longer
than the ones normally
installed on most cars. I don't have the model number or size with me today
but I suggest you
look in the archives because this subject has been discussed several times in
the last year. I
think the correct cap is one inch deep instead of 3/4 inch. Holding the caps
up side by side
there is an noticeable difference. The longer cap is needed for the longer
neck on the British
radiators. Trust me. It works. I fought this problem on my MGB and Healey
for several years
before someone told me to change the cap.
Good Luck, --Ron 66MGB 61BN7
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at westnet.com.au>
From: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2003 06:04:29 +0800
Subject: Re: Is Anybody Out There?
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
Check out the info on the
AUSTRALIAN 2004 NATIONAL RALLY at
http://www.temco.com.au/AHCWA/2004Rally1.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2003 2:07 AM
Subject: Is Anybody Out There?
> If you have been driving your Healey or joined another list raise your
hand.
>
> Wow, where'd everybody go?
>
> I'm begining to think my internet carrier is wiping out all my Healey
stuff
> thinking its Spam.
> Please say it ain't true :((((((((
>
>
> Mark,
> 58-MGA
> 60-MGA
> 76-MGB
> 74.5-MGBGT
> 60-BT7
>
> *** >
From "Lynn Martin" <foreverhealeys at my180.net>
From: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2003 16:03:46 -0700
Subject: 100M color question
I would like to know if that is correct or not and if so, where might I have
read this? Also, I find the dash was painted white, not black, as the info I
have indicates that it should be. I have talked with Ken Lambert, a 100
owner, who found his dash to have been body color originally. Again, does
anyone have information on this?
TIA,
Lynn Martin
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2003 19:18:25 -0400
Subject: Re: Is Anybody Out There?
Subject: RE: Is Anybody Out There?
> Here!
>
> tom
> > If you have been driving your Healey or joined another list raise your
> hand.
> >
> > Wow, where'd everybody go?
> >
> > I'm begining to think my internet carrier is wiping out all my Healey
> stuff
> > thinking its Spam.
> > Please say it ain't true :((((((((
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at sbcglobal.net>
From: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2003 16:26:43 -0700
Subject: Re: Healey & Back Pain
Can you say "lumbar support cushion"? There are all sorts and
varieties at all prices. One of them might help you. It certainly
makes long distance Healey driving possible for me. It worked in
trips from San Diego to Ocean Shores, and to Eureka. Try Moss or one
of the 'healthy back stores' and get a return privilege.
-Roland
BJ7, BN1
On Wed, 22 Oct 2003 14:06:09 -0700, you wrote:
::List,
::
::A few weeks ago on a sunny Saturday, my son and I drove our BN7 south to
::Monterey from our home in Boulder Creek. The total miles driven (round
::trip) was about 150.
::
::The car ran great, and the trip was a blast, yet after returning home my
::lower back started to hurt. I had the same back pain after driving the car
::in the rally up in Eureka at HR2003 in July.
::
::It's taken weeks for my back to return (almost) to normal.
::
::My question is this, for those of you who have had similar experience with
::lower back pain from driving your Healeys, what have you done to improve the
::ride, or improve the back support?
::PS. Selling the car is not an option!
From Bob Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2003 19:40:47 -0700
Subject: Re: Is Anybody Out There?
Norm Parsons has what you need. Inexpensive radiant heat. Much cheaper
than forced air to run. He's doing my new shop.
If you need his phone number contact me.
(I have no financial interest, blah, blah.)
Bob Denton
Rich C wrote:
>Here! Recently retired and busy rebuilding and winterizing garage so I can
>turn out some quality Healey work this winter in comfort.
>Rich Chrysler
From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2003 17:44:01 -0600
Subject: Re: Healey & Back Pain
Bill Lawrence
"Golding, Frank" wrote:
> List,
>
> A few weeks ago on a sunny Saturday, my son and I drove our BN7 south to
> Monterey from our home in Boulder Creek. The total miles driven (round
> trip) was about 150.
>
> The car ran great, and the trip was a blast, yet after returning home my
> lower back started to hurt. I had the same back pain after driving the car
> in the rally up in Eureka at HR2003 in July.
>
> It's taken weeks for my back to return (almost) to normal.
>
> My question is this, for those of you who have had similar experience with
> lower back pain from driving your Healeys, what have you done to improve the
> ride, or improve the back support?
>
> Cheers,
>
> Frank
> 1960 BN7 # 10610
>
> PS. Selling the car is not an option!
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2003 19:03:59 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey & Back Pain
From Bob Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2003 20:08:40 -0700
Subject: Re: Is Anybody Out There?
Bob Denton wrote:
>Hey Rich,
>
>Norm Parsons has what you need. Inexpensive radiant heat. Much cheaper
>than forced air to run. He's doing my new shop.
>
>If you need his phone number contact me.
>
>(I have no financial interest, blah, blah.)
>
>Bob Denton
>
>Rich C wrote:
>
>
>
>>Here! Recently retired and busy rebuilding and winterizing garage so I can
>>turn out some quality Healey work this winter in comfort.
>>Rich Chrysler
From GMari58175 at aol.com
From: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2003 20:08:55 EDT
Subject: Re: 100M color question
From DrBerkowitz at aol.com
From: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2003 20:14:00 EDT
Subject: Moss Steering Wheels
From "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK at peoplepc.com>
From: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2003 20:54:06 -0400
Subject: Re: 100M color question
My old English white/Black 56 100M was originally black in the engine
compartment and on the frame rails from the bulkhead forward. The dashboard
was white and the trunk surfaces were black under the Armacord. The
Anderson/Moment book mentions pg 29 that some original white 100's were
found with black engine compartments painted over the white and pg 49 the
dashboard was body color on white, black and green cars. My engine
compartment black was painted directly on the primer, as you mention,
without trace of white except maybe on the main chassis members.
regards,
Peter Davis
----- Original Message -----
From: Lynn Martin <foreverhealeys@my180.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 22, 2003 7:03 PM
Subject: 100M color question
> I am restoring a 56 100M. The car was originally painted white. I found
the
> engine
> compartment and trunk were painted black. There is no white paint under
this
> black paint. I am aware that Healeys are painted the same color as the
body
> in these areas, yet this original car is not. Somewhere, I believe that I
> read, that sometimes the white cars were the exception.
>
> I would like to know if that is correct or not and if so, where might I
have
> read this? Also, I find the dash was painted white, not black, as the info
I
> have indicates that it should be. I have talked with Ken Lambert, a 100
> owner, who found his dash to have been body color originally. Again, does
> anyone have information on this?
>
> TIA,
>
> Lynn Martin
From Doug Miller <enginem at earthlink.net>
From: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2003 17:48:35 -0700
Subject: Re: Healey & Back Pain
From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2003 21:21:25 -0400
Subject: RE: Healey & Back Pain
> [Original Message]
> From: Golding, Frank <frank.golding@plantronics.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 10/22/03 5:09:30 PM
> Subject: Healey & Back Pain
>
> List,
>
> A few weeks ago on a sunny Saturday, my son and I drove our BN7 south to
> Monterey from our home in Boulder Creek. The total miles driven (round
> trip) was about 150.
>
> The car ran great, and the trip was a blast, yet after returning home my
> lower back started to hurt. I had the same back pain after driving the
car
> in the rally up in Eureka at HR2003 in July.
>
> It's taken weeks for my back to return (almost) to normal.
>
> My question is this, for those of you who have had similar experience with
> lower back pain from driving your Healeys, what have you done to improve
the
> ride, or improve the back support?
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Lynn Martin" <foreverhealeys@my180.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2003 21:21:05 -0400
Subject: 100M color question
> I am restoring a 56 100M. The car was originally painted white. I found
the
> engine
> compartment and trunk were painted black. There is no white paint under
this
> black paint. I am aware that Healeys are painted the same color as the
body
> in these areas, yet this original car is not. Somewhere, I believe that I
> read, that sometimes the white cars were the exception.
>
> I would like to know if that is correct or not and if so, where might I
have
> read this? Also, I find the dash was painted white, not black, as the info
I
> have indicates that it should be. I have talked with Ken Lambert, a 100
> owner, who found his dash to have been body color originally. Again, does
> anyone have information on this?
>
> TIA,
>
> Lynn Martin
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "Lynn Martin" <foreverhealeys@my180.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2003 18:19:15 -0700
Subject: Re: Healey & Back Pain
1. roll up a towel and stuff it behind your lower back. (Tahoe trip)
2. have Heritage install new seat foams and new upholstery. (did this on
the BN7 MK2 that went to Eureka this Summer...no pain). Also did this on my
BT7 MK2 that went to Kelowna, BC for the 2003 NW Meet. No back problem!
John Snyder
>
> A few weeks ago on a sunny Saturday, my son and I drove our BN7 south to
Monterey from our home in Boulder Creek. The total miles driven (round
trip) was about 150. The car ran great, and the trip was a blast, yet after
returning home my lower back started to hurt. I had the same back pain
after driving the car
in the rally up in Eureka at HR2003 in July. It's taken weeks for my back
to return (almost) to normal. My question is this, for those of you who have
had similar experience with lower back pain from driving your Healeys, what
have you done to improve the ride, or improve the back support?
Cheers,
Frank
1960 BN7 # 10610
PS. Selling the car is not an option!
From LarryRPH at aol.com
From: "Lynn Martin" <foreverhealeys@my180.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2003 21:21:50 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey & Back Pain
If you want more info, send me an e-mail and I will provide it for you
Larry Wysocki
BN 6
BJ 7
From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "Lynn Martin" <foreverhealeys@my180.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2003 21:28:15 -0400
Subject: RE: Moss Steering Wheels
> [Original Message]
> From: <DrBerkowitz@aol.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 10/22/03 8:14:06 PM
> Subject: Moss Steering Wheels
>
> I have a Moss repro steering wheel on my 63 BJ7. I can't tell
you
> how it compares to an original, but it looks real nice.
> I do warn you, however, that mine slides down the steering column
no
> matter how tight I make the adjustment collar. I had to shim the
mechanism to
> stop the wheel from sliding away from me. I don't know if this is a
common
> problem but this is one that I experienced
> Len
From "Bob Brown" <BlkBT7 at aol.com>
From: "Lynn Martin" <foreverhealeys@my180.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2003 20:40:22 -0500
Subject: RE: Moss Steering Wheels
> Interesting-----I have a replacement steering wheel and it too slides
> up----I have tightened it as tight as possible.
>
>
>I have a Moss repro steering wheel on my 63 BJ7. I can't tell
>you how it compares to an original, but it looks real nice.
>I do warn you, however, that mine slides down the steering column
>no matter how tight I make the adjustment collar. I had to shim the
> mechanism to stop the wheel from sliding away from me. I don't know
> if this is a common problem but this is one that I experienced
From bn1 at pacbell.net
From: "Lynn Martin" <foreverhealeys@my180.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2003 18:50:35 -0700
Subject: Re: 100M color question
> I am restoring a 56 100M. The car was originally painted white. I found the
> engine
> compartment and trunk were painted black. There is no white paint under this
> black paint. I am aware that Healeys are painted the same color as the body
> in these areas, yet this original car is not. Somewhere, I believe that I
> read, that sometimes the white cars were the exception.
>
> I would like to know if that is correct or not and if so, where might I have
> read this? Also, I find the dash was painted white, not black, as the info I
> have indicates that it should be. I have talked with Ken Lambert, a 100
> owner, who found his dash to have been body color originally. Again, does
> anyone have information on this?
>
> TIA,
>
> Lynn Martin
Hi Lynn & List,
I have '53 BN1 #663 which I purchased from the original owner in 1978. It was a
very original car. All numbers and color scheme match the Heritage
certificate. It was Carmine Red and it, too, had a black under bonnet.
(However, the boot was red.) Removing items from the firewall and scratching, I
found only black, blood red primer and bare metal.
Many years ago I queried both Donald and Geoff about the black oddity. Donald
had no memory of such. Geoff said he "seemed to remember some being done like
that but couldn't remember why".
I restored my car with the black. I would also like to hear any confirming info
about this as many "experts" tell me: "No way!"
John Harper with the 100 Register: Do you have anything in your data bank about
that?
Bill Barnett
Santa Ana, CA
From "scott willis" <ahpowered at hotmail.com>
From: "Lynn Martin" <foreverhealeys@my180.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2003 22:00:13 -0500
Subject: RE: Is Anybody Out There? Yep and gas EVERWHERE!
Maybe everyone else is enjoying this weather.
I just got my BN7 running! Now I can't seem to get the back carb to quit
spewing gas out the overflow. The car is jacked up and not level. Will that
cause a problem with the low bowl?
I have taken it apart several times and the back bowl has a lot more gas in
it. I suppose that's why it spews!
Anyone have suggestions of what problem may be?
This car has thunder! Compared to the MGA this engine is a monster! What a
sound...
Cheers,
Scott
60 Mashed BN7
59 MGA
73 Bonnie
>From: "tom felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: "tom felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
>To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>,
>healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: RE: Is Anybody Out There?
>Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2003 14:50:57 -0400
>
>Here!
>
>tom
>
> > [Original Message]
> > From: Mark and kathy LaPierre <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
> > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Date: 10/22/03 2:07:16 PM
> > Subject: Is Anybody Out There?
> >
> > If you have been driving your Healey or joined another list raise your
>hand.
> >
> > Wow, where'd everybody go?
> >
> > I'm begining to think my internet carrier is wiping out all my Healey
>stuff
> > thinking its Spam.
>
_________________________________________________________________
Express yourself with MSN Messenger 6.0 -- download now!
http://www.msnmessenger-download.com/tracking/reach_general
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Lynn Martin" <foreverhealeys@my180.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2003 21:55:00 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: RE: Is Anybody Out There? Yep and gas EVERWHERE!
Tap the top of the bowl with a ball peen hammer or a
wrench, and that should stop the overflow problem. If
not, you need to take the top of the float chamber
off, take out the float needle, and make sure it is
clean and free of crap.
If this does not fis your problem, then your fuel pump
may be pumping with too much pressure. Are you using
an aftermarket pump or a racing pump?
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- scott willis <ahpowered@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Yep Mark. Here and smelling like gas.
>
> Maybe everyone else is enjoying this weather.
>
> I just got my BN7 running! Now I can't seem to get
> the back carb to quit
> spewing gas out the overflow. The car is jacked up
> and not level. Will that
> cause a problem with the low bowl?
>
> I have taken it apart several times and the back
> bowl has a lot more gas in
> it. I suppose that's why it spews!
>
> Anyone have suggestions of what problem may be?
>
> This car has thunder! Compared to the MGA this
> engine is a monster! What a
> sound...
>
> Cheers,
> Scott
> 60 Mashed BN7
> 59 MGA
> 73 Bonnie
>
>
> >From: "tom felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
> >Reply-To: "tom felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
> >To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre"
> <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>,
> >healeys@autox.team.net
> >Subject: RE: Is Anybody Out There?
> >Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2003 14:50:57 -0400
> >
> >Here!
> >
> >tom
> >
> > > [Original Message]
> > > From: Mark and kathy LaPierre
> <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
> > > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > Date: 10/22/03 2:07:16 PM
> > > Subject: Is Anybody Out There?
> > >
> > > If you have been driving your Healey or joined
> another list raise your
> >hand.
> > >
> > > Wow, where'd everybody go?
> > >
> > > I'm begining to think my internet carrier is
From "Vink, Graham" <vinkg at fleishman.com>
From: "Lynn Martin" <foreverhealeys@my180.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2003 08:19:05 -0500
Subject: RE: Healey & Back Pain
I "solved" it by sitting sideways, with my right foot on the
transmission tunnel and my left foot on the gas pedal. The only problem
was that it took about five minutes to get untangled if braking was
necessary.
Graham
From Warthodson at aol.com
From: "Lynn Martin" <foreverhealeys@my180.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2003 09:55:02 EDT
Subject: Sebring straight cut gear set
From Chris Dimmock <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "Lynn Martin" <foreverhealeys@my180.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2003 00:55:04 +1000
Subject: Re: Sebring straight cut gear set
I have the Denis Welch straight cut close ratio (SCCR) 'Sebring' gearset in
my BJ8 for 5 years - it has been in there since 1998, and I'm very happy
with it.
The thing about a straight cut gearset is that it is only 'noisy' until you
get into 4th gear - once you are in top gear, it is no noisier than any
other gearset. In 4th gear - there really is no 'gear' - its 1:1 - the 1st
and 3rd motion shaft are one.
The advantage of the Dennis Welch straight cut close ratio gearset is:
- straight cut gears are inherently 'stronger' than helical cut gears - and
can better tolerate high levels of torque - thats why your 1st gear is
straight cut in the standard Healey gearset.
- you can actually buy a brand new gearset in SCCR - you can't buy a brand
new std ratio, helical cut gearset to my knowledge
- the close ratio = better ratios - no big gap between 3rd and top - so you
use (with the 'Sebring' set ) the 4 gears and overdrive top - ie overdrive
top is 5th gear (ie you don't generally use overdrive on 3rd with the
sebring gearset)
- the only advantage of helical cut gears are that they are inherently, by
design, quiter than Straight cut gears
Regarding noise - I generally don't drive with a roof on; and I have a side
exit exhaust. And I actually like the mechanical 'whine' of a straight cut
gearset as you accelerate up through the gears.......
I think - if you had a standard car, which you regularly drove in traffic,
ie in 1- 2 -3 rd gear most of the time - with a roof on - and a conventional
rear exhaust -and usually listened to the radio - then a Straight cut
gearset would probably be too noisy for you, and would drive you nuts.
But if your car is modified and exhaust etc is more sporty - and you tend to
drive more on the open road, in top gear, without a roof or a radio - and
have plenty of other noises going on (triple weber induction roar; side
exhaust etc) - then the straight cut gearset whine in 1 -2 -3rd getting up
to cruising speed just adds to the experience. Especially if you have a
requirement for a stronger gearset than standard, or better gear ratios.
Joe Armor's 1965 "Sebring GT' Healey has the original straight cut factory
gearset, works hardtop, etc - but I don't actually ever recall hearing Joe
complain about gear noise.
Hope that helps
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
IMPORTANT: This email is intended for the use of the individual
addressee(s) named above and may contain information that is
confidential, privileged or unsuitable for overly sensitive persons with
no sense of humour or irrational religious or environmental beliefs. If
you are not the intended recipient, any dissemination, distribution or
copying of this email is not authorised and would be deemed to be
both an annoyance, and an irritating social faux pas. Mate.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Warthodson@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2003 11:55 PM
Subject: Sebring straight cut gear set
> I would like to hear from someone that has first hand experience with a
> straight cut gear set in their transmission. I am particularly interested
in the
> Sebring gears sold by Denis Welsh. I am interested in knowing if they will
be
> too noisy for a street car.
> Thanks,
> Gary Hodson
From "scott willis" <ahpowered at hotmail.com>
From: "Lynn Martin" <foreverhealeys@my180.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2003 09:58:14 -0500
Subject: Not spewing gas anymore but is spewing steam?
Now when the car starts to warm steam is burning off all along the exhaust
side of the engine and it gets worse the longer the engine runs (heat
pressure). I checked the oil to make sure no bubbles and I see none.
Do you think it is a leaking head gasket? Or is there something else that
has water in it all along the exhaust side of the engine under the inlet
manifold?
Thanks!
~Scott
60 BN7
59 MGA
73 Bonnie
_________________________________________________________________
Get a FREE computer virus scan online from McAfee.
http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963
From "Ed Adams" <JE.Adams at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Lynn Martin" <foreverhealeys@my180.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2003 11:47:35 -0400
Subject: Re: Is Anybody Out There?
Operating mode has the radiant surface (floor) at a temperature at which the
occupant is comfortable. No stratification - the ceiling is generally at or
below the set temp. Insulation (2 to 4 inches of foam) around the space
perimeter from floor down to the foundation footer is critical though.
Hot water circulated or even electric mats in the concrete for heat source.
Ed
>That's infra red not radiant. My stupidity.
>
>Bob Denton wrote:
From "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER at netl.doe.gov>
From: "Lynn Martin" <foreverhealeys@my180.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2003 12:29:42 -0400
Subject: RE: Is Anybody Out There? Yep and gas EVERWHERE!
Randy Cooper
BT7 with new float
>>> "scott willis" <ahpowered@hotmail.com> 10/22/03 11:00PM >>>
Yep Mark. Here and smelling like gas.
Maybe everyone else is enjoying this weather.
I just got my BN7 running! Now I can't seem to get the back carb to quit
spewing gas out the overflow. The car is jacked up and not level. Will that
cause a problem with the low bowl?
I have taken it apart several times and the back bowl has a lot more gas in
it. I suppose that's why it spews!
Anyone have suggestions of what problem may be?
This car has thunder! Compared to the MGA this engine is a monster! What a
sound...
Cheers,
Scott
60 Mashed BN7
59 MGA
73 Bonnie
From Alan Bromfield <Alan.Bromfield at ntl.com>
From: "Lynn Martin" <foreverhealeys@my180.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2003 18:06:54 +0100
Subject: RE: Not spewing gas anymore but is spewing steam?
Alan Bromfield
New Forest AHC
BJ8 - Five footer
BN4 - Restore project
-----Original Message-----
From: scott willis [mailto:ahpowered@hotmail.com]
Sent: 23 October 2003 15:58
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Not spewing gas anymore but is spewing steam?
Hi listers,
I got the float to stop spewing gas out the overflow. This car has been
sitting for 30ish years. It was burning steam off the exhaust last week. I
thought that was coming from the fan blowing coolant past the leaking water
pump. So I put on a new pump without the fan blades.
Now when the car starts to warm steam is burning off all along the exhaust
side of the engine and it gets worse the longer the engine runs (heat
pressure). I checked the oil to make sure no bubbles and I see none.
Do you think it is a leaking head gasket? Or is there something else that
has water in it all along the exhaust side of the engine under the inlet
manifold?
The contents of this email and any attachments are sent for the personal
attention
of the addressee(s) only and may be confidential. If you are not the intended
addressee, any use, disclosure or copying of this email and any attachments is
unauthorised - please notify the sender by return and delete the message. Any
representations or commitments expressed in this email are subject to contract.
ntl Group Limited
From "Alan Schultz" <alan at andysnet.net>
From: "Lynn Martin" <foreverhealeys@my180.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2003 12:36:00 -0500
Subject: Re: Not spewing gas anymore but is spewing steam?
It is likely one of the round steel freeze plugs is leaking directing water
onto the exhaust manifold.
Alan
HBJ8L
----- Original Message -----
From: "scott willis" <ahpowered@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2003 9:58 AM
Subject: Not spewing gas anymore but is spewing steam?
> Hi listers,
> I got the float to stop spewing gas out the overflow. This car has been
> sitting for 30ish years. It was burning steam off the exhaust last week. I
> thought that was coming from the fan blowing coolant past the leaking
water
> pump. So I put on a new pump without the fan blades.
>
> Now when the car starts to warm steam is burning off all along the exhaust
> side of the engine and it gets worse the longer the engine runs (heat
> pressure). I checked the oil to make sure no bubbles and I see none.
>
> Do you think it is a leaking head gasket? Or is there something else that
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
From: "Lynn Martin" <foreverhealeys@my180.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2003 11:06:13 -0700
Subject: Moss Steering Wheels & Test
Interesting you mentioned that. I also have a repro wheel and I had the same
problem. It bugged me for a few years and then I decided to address it one
time when the wheel was off. I "goofed" around and ended up taking a water
pump plier and gently bending the tips of the three (or four) tabs slightly
inward. This effectively raised the running edge of the wheel surface where
the hub presses it down on the steering shaft and it worked great. I don't
need to overtighten the hub at all anymore. All that was necessary was a
very small bend by-the-way...like a 1/16 of an inch or less on each tab
(probably the less the better)....Neil
From =?iso-8859-1?q?Paul=20Baker?= <paulbaker51 at yahoo.co.uk>
From: "Lynn Martin" <foreverhealeys@my180.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2003 19:11:28 +0100 (BST)
Subject: Re: Sebring straight cut gear set
Warthodson@aol.com wrote:
I would like to hear from someone that has first hand experience with a
straight cut gear set in their transmission. I am particularly interested in
the
Sebring gears sold by Denis Welsh. I am interested in knowing if they will be
too noisy for a street car.
Thanks,
Gary Hodson
---------------------------------
Want to chat instantly with your online friends? Get the FREE Yahoo!Messenger
From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
From: "Lynn Martin" <foreverhealeys@my180.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2003 11:12:29 -0700
Subject: RE: Healey & Back Pain
I can't believe the number of e-mail replies to this topic (18 in all).
Based on the e-mails it sounds like back pain is a common problem and in
general the recommendations are to use a lumbar support when driving.
I have ordered an "Obusform" seat & back support as recommended by one of
the guys on the list. Next week after these come in I will take the car out
for a long drive, and see how the back feels.
Cheers,
Frank Golding
1960 BN7 # 10610
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Lynn Martin" <foreverhealeys@my180.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2003 13:13:51 -0500
Subject: Re: Is Anybody Out There? Yep and gas EVERWHERE!
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Randolph Cooper <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>; <tomfelts@earthlink.net>;
<mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>; <ahpowered@hotmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2003 11:29 AM
Subject: RE: Is Anybody Out There? Yep and gas EVERWHERE!
Scott,
If you've checked your float valve and it's working, I wonder if your float
might have sunk. It can happen. Pull the carb apart, get the float and
shake it. If anything sloshes, you've got a hairline (or bigger) crack that
is making it difficult for the float to accomplish its mission.
Randy Cooper
BT7 with new float
>>> "scott willis" <ahpowered@hotmail.com> 10/22/03 11:00PM >>>
Yep Mark. Here and smelling like gas.
Maybe everyone else is enjoying this weather.
I just got my BN7 running! Now I can't seem to get the back carb to quit
spewing gas out the overflow. The car is jacked up and not level. Will that
cause a problem with the low bowl?
I have taken it apart several times and the back bowl has a lot more gas in
it. I suppose that's why it spews!
Anyone have suggestions of what problem may be?
This car has thunder! Compared to the MGA this engine is a monster! What a
sound...
Cheers,
Scott
60 Mashed BN7
59 MGA
73 Bonnie
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: "Lynn Martin" <foreverhealeys@my180.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2003 14:43:52 EDT
Subject: How about Butt pain?
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
From: "Lynn Martin" <foreverhealeys@my180.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2003 14:55:37 -0500
Subject: Allard Marque Knowledge Sought - Not Healey Related
From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "Lynn Martin" <foreverhealeys@my180.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2003 16:52:31 -0400
Subject: RE: How about Butt pain?
Cheers
tom
> [Original Message]
> From: <CAWS52803@aol.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 10/23/03 2:44:14 PM
> Subject: How about Butt pain?
>
> I never have had a back ache with my Healey, but I have had my right leg
go
> to sleep while driving. It was caused by the wallet in my right hip
pocket.
> Now I never keep the wallet in that pocket and since that I'm on Social
> Security, there ain't much in there anyway.
> Rudy Streng
> Lenoir, NBC
> BN4
From "Classic-Car-World Ltd" <enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk>
From: "Lynn Martin" <foreverhealeys@my180.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2003 22:48:16 +0100
Subject: Re: Allard Marque Knowledge Sought - Not Healey Related
Allard Owners Club
1 Dalmary Avenue, Tufnell Park, London, N7 0LD, England
Tel: + 44 (0) 1483 773428
Allard Owners Club of America
PO Box 1378, Marston Hills, Michigan, MI 02648, USA
Allard Register
28 Traver Road, Pleasant Valley, New York, NY 12569, USA
Tel: + 1 (914) 635 2373
Kindest regards
Tom
Tom McCay
Classic-Car-World Ltd
Tel: 01522 888178
Fax: 0870 7059115
E-mail: enquiries@classic-car-world.com
URL: http://www.classic-car-world.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2003 8:55 PM
Subject: Allard Marque Knowledge Sought - Not Healey Related
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sasktel.net>
From: "Lynn Martin" <foreverhealeys@my180.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2003 15:59:39 -0600
Subject: Re: How about Butt pain?
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
'65 BJ8
'89 Morgan 4/4
CAWS52803@aol.com wrote:
> I never have had a back ache with my Healey, but I have had my right leg go
> to sleep while driving. It was caused by the wallet in my right hip pocket.
> Now I never keep the wallet in that pocket and since that I'm on Social
> Security, there ain't much in there anyway.
> Rudy Streng
> Lenoir, NBC
> BN4
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sasktel.net>
From: "Lynn Martin" <foreverhealeys@my180.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2003 16:08:06 -0600
Subject: Re: Healey & Back Pain
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
'65 BJ8
'89 Morgan 4/4 (with a driver's seat problem, no pun intended)
"Golding, Frank" wrote:
> List,
>
> I can't believe the number of e-mail replies to this topic (18 in all).
> Based on the e-mails it sounds like back pain is a common problem and in
> general the recommendations are to use a lumbar support when driving.
>
> I have ordered an "Obusform" seat & back support as recommended by one of
> the guys on the list. Next week after these come in I will take the car out
> for a long drive, and see how the back feels.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Frank Golding
> 1960 BN7 # 10610
From Fred Crowley <fredcrowley at teamhealeytexas.com>
From: "Lynn Martin" <foreverhealeys@my180.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2003 17:26:35 -0500
Subject: Re: Sebring straight cut gear set
I've used Welch Sebring gear set in my race Healey for a number of
years. Yup, they're noisy, but this is a British Car, and a proper
British Car is supposed to make all sorts of noises. Noise is obviously
somewhat subjective so what might be acceptable to someone may not
necessarily be acceptable to someone else. The big difference of course
is that the ratios are much better suited to "performance" driving, as
well the gears are stronger than the traditional beveled gears.
All the best, Fred
From MBran89793 at aol.com
From: "Lynn Martin" <foreverhealeys@my180.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2003 19:42:42 EDT
Subject: Re: How about Butt pain?
> Now I never keep the wallet in that pocket
FYI
Most traditional mens slacks used to be made with a button on the left hip
pocket only. This is the pocket in which most men carry their wallet. This was
to discourage pickpockets.
For long trips in any car I prefer to not keep a wallet in my hip pocket. It
certainly makes for a more comfortable ride. Put your wallet in the side
pocket of the door or the glove box. But just don't panic when you reach for it
and
it isn't where you usually carry it.
Try it and see if this doesn't stop some of your back pain. It did mine.
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club
Membership Chmn. & Delegate
727/867-7129
From "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "Lynn Martin" <foreverhealeys@my180.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2003 19:51:46 -0400
Subject: Re: 100M color question
allen miller (BN2/M 229089)
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Lynn Martin" <foreverhealeys@my180.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2003 17:29:31 -0700
Subject: Re: Sebring straight cut gear set
How do the Sebring gears compare? I've heard there are two types
of Sebring gearsets as well.
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fred Crowley" <fredcrowley@teamhealeytexas.com>
To: <Warthodson@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2003 3:26 PM
Subject: Re: Sebring straight cut gear set
> Gary,
>
> I've used Welch Sebring gear set in my race Healey for a number of
> years. Yup, they're noisy, but this is a British Car, and a proper
> British Car is supposed to make all sorts of noises. Noise is obviously
> somewhat subjective so what might be acceptable to someone may not
> necessarily be acceptable to someone else. The big difference of course
> is that the ratios are much better suited to "performance" driving, as
> well the gears are stronger than the traditional beveled gears.
>
> All the best, Fred
From "John Soderling" <jsoderling at ca.astound.net>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <frank.golding@plantronics.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2003 17:29:10 -0700
Subject: Re: Healey & Back Pain
> 100 crunches per day couldn't hurt !! it ain't easy being a sport !
> Golding, Frank wrote:
> >
> > List,
> >
> > A few weeks ago on a sunny Saturday, my son and I drove our BN7 south
to
> > Monterey from our home in Boulder Creek. The total miles driven (round
> > trip) was about 150.
> >
> > The car ran great, and the trip was a blast, yet after returning home
my
> > lower back started to hurt. I had the same back pain after driving the
car
> > in the rally up in Eureka at HR2003 in July.
> >
> > It's taken weeks for my back to return (almost) to normal.
> >
> > My question is this, for those of you who have had similar experience
with
> > lower back pain from driving your Healeys, what have you done to
improve the
> > ride, or improve the back support?
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Frank
> > 1960 BN7 # 10610
> >
> > PS. Selling the car is not an option!
From Warthodson at aol.com
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <frank.golding@plantronics.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2003 20:56:19 EDT
Subject: Re: Sebring straight cut gear set
Tulip
1st: 2.64
2nd: 1.88
3rd: 1.43
4th: 1.0
The Sebring set is a "close ratio gear set" & the spacing is better than
stock.
The Tulip set is designed with wider spacing than stock. The intent is to use
overdrive to split the spacing between 3rd & 4th.
Gary Hodson
From Warthodson at aol.com
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <frank.golding@plantronics.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2003 20:59:14 EDT
Subject: Re: Sebring straight cut gear set
From DrBerkowitz at aol.com
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <frank.golding@plantronics.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2003 21:30:07 EDT
Subject: Moss Steering Wheels
From Magnus Karlsson <492karlsson at telia.com>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <frank.golding@plantronics.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2003 03:46:36 +0200
Subject: Re: Sebring straight cut gear set
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <frank.golding@plantronics.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2003 21:23:42 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey & Back Pain
From "John Soderling" <jsoderling at ca.astound.net>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <frank.golding@plantronics.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2003 19:21:39 -0700
Subject: Distributor Question
From "Vink, Graham" <vinkg at fleishman.com>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <frank.golding@plantronics.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2003 08:01:10 -0500
Subject: Correct use of impact wrench? (vaguely LBC related)
When is it appropriate to use an impact wrench to REMOVE bolts or nuts,
especially those believed to be rusty (or is that a redundant clause?).
I don't want to go around snapping more nuts and bolts than I already do
the old-fashioned way, but I would like to know when it's appropriate to
take a shot with an impact wrench. I'm about to remove the exhaust studs
from the manifold on a non-LBC car - should I start first with a regular
socket or the impact?
Thanks for any advice for an air tools newbie.
-Graham
(PS: I'm well aware of the no-nos about using the impact wrench to
TIGHTEN things like wheel studs.)
From TBanks at LEVI.com
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <frank.golding@plantronics.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2003 06:24:26 -0700
Subject: RE: Is Anybody Out There? Yep and gas EVERWHERE!
Rgds,
Tom
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark and kathy LaPierre [mailto:mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net]
Sent: 23 October 2003 20:14
To: Randolph Cooper; healeys@autox.team.net; tomfelts@earthlink.net;
ahpowered@hotmail.com
Subject: Re: Is Anybody Out There? Yep and gas EVERWHERE!
And to add to what Randy has suggested, some cracked floats are sooooo full
they don't even slosh so you need to compare it to an empty one as a weight
comparrison. I fell victim to this situation twice in my LBC career. I
think I've got it down now.
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Randolph Cooper <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>; <tomfelts@earthlink.net>;
<mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>; <ahpowered@hotmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2003 11:29 AM
Subject: RE: Is Anybody Out There? Yep and gas EVERWHERE!
Scott,
If you've checked your float valve and it's working, I wonder if your float
might have sunk. It can happen. Pull the carb apart, get the float and
shake it. If anything sloshes, you've got a hairline (or bigger) crack that
is making it difficult for the float to accomplish its mission.
Randy Cooper
BT7 with new float
>>> "scott willis" <ahpowered@hotmail.com> 10/22/03 11:00PM >>>
Yep Mark. Here and smelling like gas.
Maybe everyone else is enjoying this weather.
I just got my BN7 running! Now I can't seem to get the back carb to quit
spewing gas out the overflow. The car is jacked up and not level. Will that
cause a problem with the low bowl?
I have taken it apart several times and the back bowl has a lot more gas in
it. I suppose that's why it spews!
Anyone have suggestions of what problem may be?
This car has thunder! Compared to the MGA this engine is a monster! What a
sound...
Cheers,
Scott
60 Mashed BN7
59 MGA
73 Bonnie
From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <frank.golding@plantronics.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2003 09:53:28 -0400
Subject: Re: Correct use of impact wrench? (vaguely LBC related)
The impact. In general (and remember, all generalizations are false :-), an
impact wrench is less likely to snap things when loosening, as compared with
honking down on a breaker bar.
You may want to give the studs a day or few of penetrating oil first.
> (PS: I'm well aware of the no-nos about using the impact wrench to
> TIGHTEN things like wheel studs.)
It's not intrinsically bad; the risk comes from not having some kind of torque
regulation. There are torque-limiting socket extensions for impact wrenches
that work pretty well.
--
John Miller
My email address: Domain, n4vu.com; username, jsm
Being ugly isn't illegal. Yet.
From nickzarkades at comcast.net
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <frank.golding@plantronics.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2003 13:56:25 +0000
Subject: Removal of interior door panels
Thanks,
Nickz 66BJ8
From "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid at hotmail.com>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <frank.golding@plantronics.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2003 14:37:01 +0000
Subject: Inquiry re Auto Trans for Big Healey
I'm sending your original inquiry (below my signature) to the "Healeys Mail
List" where hundreds of Healey owners/enthusiasts can have a look and
potentially respond. I have no personal knolwedge of any Healeys that have
had automatic transmissions transplanted, but it is very likely to have
occurred somewhere, sometime. Unfortunately it probably also requires a
engine transplant to go with the auto tranny, but in any case perhaps one of
the people reading this will have some information and contact you directly.
Regards,
Reid
Reid Trummel
Portland, Oregon
-----------------------
Good morning,
I came across your site after doing a search on Google - I'm hoping you
can
help, or point me towards someone who can.
Assuming for a second that money was no object, is it possible to
modify a
Healey so that it can have automatic transmission?
I ask this because my father always drove and loved Healeys. He
recently
passed away and I know that he would get a kick out of me owning a car
like
his (a '65 3000 Mark III). The only problem is that I have something
wrong
with my right leg and I can't - physically or legally - drive a manual
transmission car.
So.... can it be done? Is it crazy?
Any help you can offer will be greatly appreciated.
Best regards,
Joe Quint
_________________________________________________________________
Enjoy MSN 8 patented spam control and more with MSN 8 Dial-up Internet
Service. Try it FREE for one month! http://join.msn.com/?page=dept/dialup
From Bill Pollock <wjpollock at erols.com>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <frank.golding@plantronics.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2003 10:10:00 -0400
Subject: battery cable
Cany anyone offer any suggestions where to go now. I have the organial
solenoid switch and a rebuilt starter in the car from when I restored
it 5 years ago.
Thanks for any help
Bill Pollock
From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <frank.golding@plantronics.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2003 10:04:05 -0500
Subject: RE: Inquiry re Auto Trans for Big Healey
Patton
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Reid Trummel
Sent: Friday, October 24, 2003 9:37 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net; joe@quintandquint.com
Subject: Inquiry re Auto Trans for Big Healey
Joe,
I'm sending your original inquiry (below my signature) to the "Healeys Mail
List" where hundreds of Healey owners/enthusiasts can have a look and
potentially respond. I have no personal knolwedge of any Healeys that have
had automatic transmissions transplanted, but it is very likely to have
occurred somewhere, sometime. Unfortunately it probably also requires a
engine transplant to go with the auto tranny, but in any case perhaps one of
the people reading this will have some information and contact you directly.
Regards,
Reid
Reid Trummel
Portland, Oregon
-----------------------
Good morning,
I came across your site after doing a search on Google - I'm hoping you can
help, or point me towards someone who can.
Assuming for a second that money was no object, is it possible to modify a
Healey so that it can have automatic transmission?
I ask this because my father always drove and loved Healeys. He recently
passed away and I know that he would get a kick out of me owning a car like
his (a '65 3000 Mark III). The only problem is that I have something wrong
with my right leg and I can't - physically or legally - drive a manual
transmission car.
So.... can it be done? Is it crazy?
Any help you can offer will be greatly appreciated.
Best regards,
Joe Quint
From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <frank.golding@plantronics.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2003 11:07:01 -0400
Subject: RE: Removal of interior door panels
Cheers.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of nickzarkades@comcast.net
Sent: Friday, October 24, 2003 9:56 AM
To: Healeys
Subject: Removal of interior door panels
There is something is the driver door that is scratching the glass and I
need to remove the inside door panel. Can not figure out how to release
the attaching hardware. Also while I am in there is there is anything
else I should do.
Thanks,
Nickz 66BJ8
From "James Shope" <healeymanjim at JoiMail.com>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <frank.golding@plantronics.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2003 08:11:35 -0700
Subject: vibrations
From "Classic-Car-World Ltd" <enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <frank.golding@plantronics.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2003 16:56:17 +0100
Subject: Re: Sebring straight cut gear set
Details can be found on our site at www.classic-car-world.com by searching on
gearboxes as a service in the trader section. As far as I can determine they
supply retail as well as to the trade.
Kindest regards
Tom
Tom McCay (BJ8 Phase 2)
Classic-Car-World Ltd
Tel: 01522 888178
Fax: 0870 7059115
E-mail: enquiries@classic-car-world.co.uk
URL: http://www.classic-car-world.co.uk
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <frank.golding@plantronics.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2003 09:20:25 -0700
Subject: Nice Article (lots of Healey content ;)
http://www.nytimes.com/2003/10/24/automobiles/24AUTO.html
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
From "Andrew Fell" <design at soltec.net>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <frank.golding@plantronics.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2003 11:26:25 -0500
Subject: Re: Help in Illinois
I have a general inquiry for the list. I live in Champaign/Urbana, Illinois
and will soon be looking for someone to do a fair amount of body work on my
BJ7. This will include some sill replacement, outrigger repair, wheel arch
replacement/repair, shut pillar replacement, etc. The work will also
include a new paint job. Does anyone have any knowledge of reputable
shops/persons reasonably close to my area?...
I have a local garage that semi- specializes in british and more 'exotic'
cars. They are doing a very nice job with my 'drive-ability' related work.
Also, in case anyone is intererested - After much searching for the right
solution, I have fabricated a nice looking (in my opinion) center console
type panel to hold my cd player, recessed tray (to hold cd's) and an
auxiliary switch. The panel goes from the heater box (covers it) to the
trans tunnel and has sides that wrap the heaterbox and extend back about 5
inches or so. It is vinyl covered to match the interior panels. I
fabricated it from a single sheet of alumiinum sheet cut and bent to fit,
with vinyl glued directly to it.
Thanks for the time
Andrew Fell
Urbana, Illinois
From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2003 11:20:56 -0600
Subject: Correct use of impact wrench? (vaguely LBC related)
> Hello list,
>
> When is it appropriate to use an impact wrench to REMOVE bolts or nuts,
> especially those believed to be rusty (or is that a redundant clause?).
>
> I don't want to go around snapping more nuts and bolts than I already do
> the old-fashioned way, but I would like to know when it's appropriate to
> take a shot with an impact wrench. I'm about to remove the exhaust studs
> from the manifold on a non-LBC car - should I start first with a regular
> socket or the impact?
>
> Thanks for any advice for an air tools newbie.
>
> -Graham
>
> (PS: I'm well aware of the no-nos about using the impact wrench to
> TIGHTEN things like wheel studs.)
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2003 11:25:13 -0600
Subject: Re: battery cable
Dave Russell
BN2
Bill Pollock wrote:
> On my neg ground 100-6,when the key is turned on the fuel pump works as
> well as all lights and turn signals with no trouble.
> The problem is when I hit the start button,I get a low sounding pop from
> the battery. The neg cable going to the cut off switch gets very hot to
> the touch and of course the starter does not engage. I have taken the
> cut off switch out and run the neg cable to direct frame ground but it
> does not make any difference.
>
> Cany anyone offer any suggestions where to go now. I have the organial
> solenoid switch and a rebuilt starter in the car from when I restored
> it 5 years ago.
> Thanks for any help
> Bill Pollock
From "matt wilson" <mwilson18 at cox.net>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2003 10:47:24 -0700
Subject: Healey Article in the New York Times
I drove this car as my first car. Driving it daily to Grossmont High School
in San Diego when I turned 16. Then 10 years after graduating from College
the hand off finally took place. It's just a car to some but to me it's a
family treasure.
Today an article came out in the New York Times that most definitely made my
heart ache a for days of old. It reminded me fully of the reason this car
hold such a special place in my life's story. I am walking out the door now
for a drive in my Dad's Healey and to all of you driving your Dad's Healey...
I tip my hat to you. We are lucky indeed.
Matt Wilson-
1960 AH 3000 BT7
Inheriting Much More Than a Car
By DANA WHITE
Published: October 24, 2003
N automobile can be like any other heirloom, a Victorian brooch or the
portrait of an obscure uncle, passed down through the generations as a symbol
of clan continuity. In my case, the car is a 1965 Austin Healey 3000 Mark III
convertible in British racing green. It sits in my sister's spotless garage in
Los Angeles, rarely driven but highly prized, a six-cylinder reminder of all
that survives in a family and all that doesn't.
Designed as a lower-priced alternative to the Jaguar, the Austin Healey 3000
is an MG on steroids, a curvy, low-slung, long-snouted number with a black
vinyl interior, a beautiful dash veneered in burled walnut, and an oval chrome
grille that resembles a maniacal grin. It joined our family in the mid-1960's
when my father, Dan, a Navy pilot, was posted with the United States European
Command near Paris. Whenever Dad was on leave we would jump in the Healey and
explore the Continent: camping in Belgium, skiing in West Germany; the
Netherlands for Queen Juliana's birthday.
My parents drove with the top down, even in the winter. Wedged into the hard,
tiny back seat next to my older brother, Mark, I would steal frequent nervous
glances at the speedometer needle as it trembled toward the triple digits and
the road became a runway bordered by smeared trees. The wind whipped my hair
with such force that the ends stung my cheeks. "The Healey sure makes
point-to-point travel faster, what with no speed limits," Dad wrote in his
1965 Christmas letter to relatives back home. "On some freeways we can eat up
many miles at 100 to 110 m.p.h."
On May 2, 1966, a week before our return to the United States, Dad got his
dream car: a 1966 Porsche 912 coupe in the same deep green. Three days later
he let Mom drive it while he attended a Navy function. On a country road she
lost control and rolled the Porsche in a field of nettles. Dad, still in his
dress whites, drove Mark and me to the accident scene. From a distance I could
see Mom perched cross-legged on top of the car's dented roof, rigid with
shock, her eyes locked to the horizon like a sailor scanning for icebergs. I
was only 5, so the reason for our return to the States escaped me, but Mom
knew and could see what was coming.
The Healey followed us to the States. But the Porsche was a total loss, and
Dad had another one shipped to him in Florida, where we lived for two years
while he flew reconnaissance missions over North Vietnam. In the spring of
1969, when he did not make it back from his second cruise, the three of us
were left with little but his life insurance payouts and two sports cars the
color of four-leaf clovers.
Mom was pregnant with my sister, Marda, at the time, and she loved to take the
Healey out with the top down well into her ninth month. The wind in her hair
took the edge off her grief. She adored that car. I preferred the Porsche -
the seats were softer - and when Mom sold it a year later for a song, I was
heartbroken.
Marda loved the Healey practically from birth. She would pretend to drive it
while imitating the engine's distinctive gravelly purr. Later, after we moved
to Colorado, she would sit on Mom's lap and steer the car around our long
driveway. The Healey was prone to collapse, though Mark intrepidly drove it to
high school. "It was not the most comfortable car," he recalled recently. "It
was hot, it was noisy, and the back seat was useless. In the winter it slipped
all over the place."
By the early 1980's Mark and I were out of the house, and Mom, who lived in
Southern California by then, started taking Marda to Austin Healey meets,
gatherings of like-minded enthusiasts. The meets were basically Mom's excuse
to meet men, but Marda enjoyed seeing all the shiny cars. In 1980, when Marda
was 11, they met a couple from Encino, Don and Gloria Fischer. Don, a
professor at the School of Dentistry at the University of California at Los
Angeles, owned a prize-winning 3000 that he had impeccably restored. And so
the tall, kind man with the three Healeys became Marda's surrogate father,
bonded by their love for a car.
In 1985, as Marda approached driving age, Don decided that the Healey was too
unreliable for her. He proposed a project. Working in his garage, they
disassembled the car down to its frame and, every weekend for a year, put it
back together. Under Don's tutelage Marda rebuilt the engine, painted the
body, and repaired the cracked dashboard with a new veneer, applying seven
coats of varnish with painstaking care. Marda had never known her father, but
she got to know his car down to the last bolt and screw, as if it were a
puzzle that, when completed, would restore a piece of her past.
Mom signed the registration over to Marda on her 16th birthday, and she has
had the car ever since. "I love the Healey because it was Dad's," she told me
on the phone the other day. "Restoring it was important to me. Besides, it's a
great car."
I replied: "But the seats were hard. It was drafty."
"The Healey is a driver's car," she explained patiently. "It likes to be
driven hard. You always smell like the car when you're done driving it; like
oil and gas and dirt."
Marda is 34 now, with two children. We live on opposite coasts, and whenever I
visit her I make a point of looking in on the Healey. Mom died two years ago,
but it is easy enough to picture her zooming around town, her belly so big it
barely fit behind the wheel. I can see Dad, too, grinning broadly and
relishing the next best thing to being in the cockpit. Marda may have the car,
but I have the memories. I'm sure she would trade with me in a heartbeat, but
I wouldn't. Remembering the car and the parents who owned it is enough.
And the Healey's next owner may be in the wings. My 3-year-old niece, Haley,
loves to sit behind the wheel, pretending to steer. When Haley saw Marda back
it out of the garage for the first time, she screamed, "Mommy, it works, it
works!" Then she begged to go for a ride.
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of
spacer.gif]
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of
a.gif]
From "Gary Williams" <gwilliams54 at hotmail.com>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2003 10:49:37 -0700
Subject: Inheriting More Than a Car
>DRIVING
>
>
>Inheriting Much More Than a Car
>
>
>By DANA WHITE
>
>Published: October 24, 2003
>
> An automobile can be like any other heirloom, a Victorian brooch or the
>portrait of an obscure uncle, passed down through the generations as a
>symbol of clan continuity. In my case, the car is a 1965 Austin Healey
>3000 Mark III convertible in British racing green. It sits in my
>sister's spotless garage in Los Angeles, rarely driven but highly
>prized, a six-cylinder reminder of all that survives in a family and all
>that doesn't.
>
>Designed as a lower-priced alternative to the Jaguar, the Austin Healey
>3000 is an MG on steroids, a curvy, low-slung, long-snouted number with
>a black vinyl interior, a beautiful dash veneered in burled walnut, and
>an oval chrome grille that resembles a maniacal grin. It joined our
>family in the mid-1960's when my father, Dan, a Navy pilot, was posted
>with the United States European Command near Paris. Whenever Dad was on
>leave we would jump in the Healey and explore the Continent: camping in
>Belgium, skiing in West Germany; the Netherlands for Queen Juliana's
>birthday.
>
>My parents drove with the top down, even in the winter. Wedged into the
>hard, tiny back seat next to my older brother, Mark, I would steal
>frequent nervous glances at the speedometer needle as it trembled toward
>the triple digits and the road became a runway bordered by smeared
>trees. The wind whipped my hair with such force that the ends stung my
>cheeks. "The Healey sure makes point-to-point travel faster, what with
>no speed limits," Dad wrote in his 1965 Christmas letter to relatives
>back home. "On some freeways we can eat up many miles at 100 to 110
>m.p.h."
>
>On May 2, 1966, a week before our return to the United States, Dad got
>his dream car: a 1966 Porsche 912 coupe in the same deep green. Three
>days later he let Mom drive it while he attended a Navy function. On a
>country road she lost control and rolled the Porsche in a field of
>nettles. Dad, still in his dress whites, drove Mark and me to the
>accident scene. From a distance I could see Mom perched cross-legged on
>top of the car's dented roof, rigid with shock, her eyes locked to the
>horizon like a sailor scanning for icebergs. I was only 5, so the reason
>for our return to the States escaped me, but Mom knew and could see what
>was coming.
>
>The Healey followed us to the States. But the Porsche was a total loss,
>and Dad had another one shipped to him in Florida, where we lived for
>two years while he flew reconnaissance missions over North Vietnam. In
>the spring of 1969, when he did not make it back from his second cruise,
>the three of us were left with little but his life insurance payouts and
>two sports cars the color of four-leaf clovers.
>
>Mom was pregnant with my sister, Marda, at the time, and she loved to
>take the Healey out with the top down well into her ninth month. The
>wind in her hair took the edge off her grief. She adored that car. I
>preferred the Porsche - the seats were softer - and when Mom sold it a
>year later for a song, I was heartbroken.
>
>Marda loved the Healey practically from birth. She would pretend to
>drive it while imitating the engine's distinctive gravelly purr. Later,
>after we moved to Colorado, she would sit on Mom's lap and steer the car
>around our long driveway. The Healey was prone to collapse, though Mark
>intrepidly drove it to high school. "It was not the most comfortable
>car," he recalled recently. "It was hot, it was noisy, and the back seat
>was useless. In the winter it slipped all over the place."
>
>By the early 1980's Mark and I were out of the house, and Mom, who lived
>in Southern California by then, started taking Marda to Austin Healey
>meets, gatherings of like-minded enthusiasts. The meets were basically
>Mom's excuse to meet men, but Marda enjoyed seeing all the shiny cars.
>In 1980, when Marda was 11, they met a couple from Encino, Don and
>Gloria Fischer. Don, a professor at the School of Dentistry at the
>University of California at Los Angeles, owned a prize-winning 3000 that
>he had impeccably restored. And so the tall, kind man with the three
>Healeys became Marda's surrogate father, bonded by their love for a car.
>
>In 1985, as Marda approached driving age, Don decided that the Healey
>was too unreliable for her. He proposed a project. Working in his
>garage, they disassembled the car down to its frame and, every weekend
>for a year, put it back together. Under Don's tutelage Marda rebuilt the
>engine, painted the body, and repaired the cracked dashboard with a new
>veneer, applying seven coats of varnish with painstaking care. Marda had
>never known her father, but she got to know his car down to the last
>bolt and screw, as if it were a puzzle that, when completed, would
>restore a piece of her past.
>
>Mom signed the registration over to Marda on her 16th birthday, and she
>has had the car ever since. "I love the Healey because it was Dad's,"
>she told me on the phone the other day. "Restoring it was important to
>me. Besides, it's a great car."
>
>I replied: "But the seats were hard. It was drafty."
>
>"The Healey is a driver's car," she explained patiently. "It likes to be
>driven hard. You always smell like the car when you're done driving it;
>like oil and gas and dirt."
>
>Marda is 34 now, with two children. We live on opposite coasts, and
>whenever I visit her I make a point of looking in on the Healey. Mom
>died two years ago, but it is easy enough to picture her zooming around
>town, her belly so big it barely fit behind the wheel. I can see Dad,
>too, grinning broadly and relishing the next best thing to being in the
>cockpit. Marda may have the car, but I have the memories. I'm sure she
>would trade with me in a heartbeat, but I wouldn't. Remembering the car
>and the parents who owned it is enough.
>
>And the Healey's next owner may be in the wings. My 3-year-old niece,
>Haley, loves to sit behind the wheel, pretending to steer. When Haley
>saw Marda back it out of the garage for the first time, she screamed,
>"Mommy, it works, it works!" Then she begged to go for a ride.
GW
_________________________________________________________________
See when your friends are online with MSN Messenger 6.0. Download it now
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From Skip Besaw <besaw55 at yahoo.com>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2003 11:33:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: NY Times Article-AH3000
October 24, 2003
By DANA WHITE
AN automobile can be like any other heirloom, a Victorian
brooch or the portrait of an obscure uncle, passed down
through the generations as a symbol of clan continuity. In
my case, the car is a 1965 Austin Healey 3000 Mark III
convertible in British racing green. It sits in my sister's
spotless garage in Los Angeles, rarely driven but highly
prized, a six-cylinder reminder of all that survives in a
family and all that doesn't.
Designed as a lower-priced alternative to the Jaguar, the
Austin Healey 3000 is an MG on steroids, a curvy,
low-slung, long-snouted number with a black vinyl interior,
a beautiful dash veneered in burled walnut, and an oval
chrome grille that resembles a maniacal grin. It joined our
family in the mid-1960's when my father, Dan, a Navy pilot,
was posted with the United States European Command near
Paris. Whenever Dad was on leave we would jump in the
Healey and explore the Continent: camping in Belgium,
skiing in West Germany; the Netherlands for Queen Juliana's
birthday.
My parents drove with the top down, even in the winter.
Wedged into the hard, tiny back seat next to my older
brother, Mark, I would steal frequent nervous glances at
the speedometer needle as it trembled toward the triple
digits and the road became a runway bordered by smeared
trees. The wind whipped my hair with such force that the
ends stung my cheeks. "The Healey sure makes point-to-point
travel faster, what with no speed limits," Dad wrote in his
1965 Christmas letter to relatives back home. "On some
freeways we can eat up many miles at 100 to 110 m.p.h."
On May 2, 1966, a week before our return to the United
States, Dad got his dream car: a 1966 Porsche 912 coupe in
the same deep green. Three days later he let Mom drive it
while he attended a Navy function. On a country road she
lost control and rolled the Porsche in a field of nettles.
Dad, still in his dress whites, drove Mark and me to the
accident scene. From a distance I could see Mom perched
cross-legged on top of the car's dented roof, rigid with
shock, her eyes locked to the horizon like a sailor
scanning for icebergs. I was only 5, so the reason for our
return to the States escaped me, but Mom knew and could see
what was coming.
The Healey followed us to the States. But the Porsche was a
total loss, and Dad had another one shipped to him in
Florida, where we lived for two years while he flew
reconnaissance missions over North Vietnam. In the spring
of 1969, when he did not make it back from his second
cruise, the three of us were left with little but his life
insurance payouts and two sports cars the color of
four-leaf clovers.
Mom was pregnant with my sister, Marda, at the time, and
she loved to take the Healey out with the top down well
into her ninth month. The wind in her hair took the edge
off her grief. She adored that car. I preferred the Porsche
- the seats were softer - and when Mom sold it a year later
for a song, I was heartbroken.
Marda loved the Healey practically from birth. She would
pretend to drive it while imitating the engine's
distinctive gravelly purr. Later, after we moved to
Colorado, she would sit on Mom's lap and steer the car
around our long driveway. The Healey was prone to collapse,
though Mark intrepidly drove it to high school. "It was not
the most comfortable car," he recalled recently. "It was
hot, it was noisy, and the back seat was useless. In the
winter it slipped all over the place."
By the early 1980's Mark and I were out of the house, and
Mom, who lived in Southern California by then, started
taking Marda to Austin Healey meets, gatherings of
like-minded enthusiasts. The meets were basically Mom's
excuse to meet men, but Marda enjoyed seeing all the shiny
cars. In 1980, when Marda was 11, they met a couple from
Encino, Don and Gloria Fischer. Don, a professor at the
School of Dentistry at the University of California at Los
Angeles, owned a prize-winning 3000 that he had impeccably
restored. And so the tall, kind man with the three Healeys
became Marda's surrogate father, bonded by their love for a
car.
In 1985, as Marda approached driving age, Don decided that
the Healey was too unreliable for her. He proposed a
project. Working in his garage, they disassembled the car
down to its frame and, every weekend for a year, put it
back together. Under Don's tutelage Marda rebuilt the
engine, painted the body, and repaired the cracked
dashboard with a new veneer, applying seven coats of
varnish with painstaking care. Marda had never known her
father, but she got to know his car down to the last bolt
and screw, as if it were a puzzle that, when completed,
would restore a piece of her past.
Mom signed the registration over to Marda on her 16th
birthday, and she has had the car ever since. "I love the
Healey because it was Dad's," she told me on the phone the
other day. "Restoring it was important to me. Besides, it's
a great car."
I replied: "But the seats were hard. It was drafty."
"The
Healey is a driver's car," she explained patiently. "It
likes to be driven hard. You always smell like the car when
you're done driving it; like oil and gas and dirt."
Marda is 34 now, with two children. We live on opposite
coasts, and whenever I visit her I make a point of looking
in on the Healey. Mom died two years ago, but it is easy
enough to picture her zooming around town, her belly so big
it barely fit behind the wheel. I can see Dad, too,
grinning broadly and relishing the next best thing to being
in the cockpit. Marda may have the car, but I have the
memories. I'm sure she would trade with me in a heartbeat,
but I wouldn't. Remembering the car and the parents who
owned it is enough.
And the Healey's next owner may be in the wings. My
3-year-old niece, Haley, loves to sit behind the wheel,
pretending to steer. When Haley saw Marda back it out of
the garage for the first time, she screamed, "Mommy, it
works, it works!" Then she begged to go for a ride.
http://www.nytimes.com/2003/10/24/automobiles/24AUTO.html?ex=1068007441&ei=1&en=db711bf25e761211
From =?iso-8859-1?Q?Ulf_H=E5kansson_privat?= <hakansson.ulf at telia.com>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2003 21:09:36 +0200
Subject: Looking for previous owners
Are there any records to help to find out who ordered the car, and what
options that were ordered.
The car was brought back to Europe for restoration 1996. Last owner in the US
was Peter J Mustard of 711 5th Ave, Lyndhurst NJ. He obviously had owned the
car since 1970.
Its last registration was in NJ with the no SCC575.
Anybody who knows anything about this car or knows if there are records making
it possible to trace the earlier owners.
Thanks
Ulf /Sweden
From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2003 15:08:18 -0400
Subject: RE: Removal of interior door panels
> [Original Message]
> From: <nickzarkades@comcast.net>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net (Healeys)>
> Date: 10/24/03 9:56:40 AM
> Subject: Removal of interior door panels
>
> There is something is the driver door that is scratching the glass and I
need to remove the inside door panel. Can not figure out how to release the
attaching hardware. Also while I am in there is there is anything else I
should do.
>
> Thanks,
> Nickz 66BJ8
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2003 12:31:22 -0700
Subject: Re: Healey Article in the New York Times
http://www.nytimes.com/2003/10/24/automobiles/24AUTO.html
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2003 15:51:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Nice Article (lots of Healey content ;)
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 24, 2003 12:20 PM
Subject: Nice Article (lots of Healey content ;)
| May have to sign on to NY Times (no downside that I know of):
|
| http://www.nytimes.com/2003/10/24/automobiles/24AUTO.html
|
|
|
| bs
| ********************************************
| Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
| '67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
| ********************************************
|
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2003 16:40:03 -0500
Subject: Re: Distributor Question
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2003 16:42:12 -0500
Subject: Re: Removal of interior door panels
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2003 16:51:37 -0500
Subject: Re: Help in Illinois
From Bob Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2003 18:09:11 -0700
Subject: need a good painter in Naples-Ft. Meyers, FL area
Thanks
Bob Denton
From "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK at peoplepc.com>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2003 19:21:26 -0400
Subject: Re: Distributor Question
One rev of the knob (quite a few clicks!) equals one div on the shaft which
is 4deg.
regards
Peter Davis
56 100M
----- Original Message -----
From: John Soderling <jsoderling@ca.astound.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2003 10:21 PM
Subject: Distributor Question
> On a 25D Lucas distributor, how many clicks of the micro adjustor knob
equals
> one degree of advance or retard?
> Thanks.
> Vrooom vrooom,
> John
> 100-Six Erika the Red
From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2003 19:28:39 -0400
Subject: RE: Looking for previous owners
If the last name of Mr. Mustard was actually Mustardo, then you can find a
Peter J. Mustardo in New Jersey by searching on his name at
http://www.anywho.com, using the last name and the state (NJ). If this is
your man, perhaps you could write to him and learn more of the car's history.
Historical registration information is sometimes available from the state
vehicle registration authorities. Unfortunately, there is something to deal
with called the "Federal Driver's Privacy Protection Act", which all states
observe. However, they interpret that act in their own way, so it is
sometimes still possible to obtain information on previous owners.
You can find what you need to know from New Jersey at:
http://www.state.nj.us/mvc/cit_registration/v_reg_certified.html
Try contacting them (they say to call for an application form; they don't make
it easy for non-US residents). You have to meet one of the exemptions
specified in the Federal Act before they will release owner's names to you.
Perhaps you will get lucky. I have been able to obtain some historical
registration information for European owners for BJ8 Healeys. If you contact
the New Jersey authorities, explain your situation and see if you can meet
their requirements to get the information you want.
Good luck!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Ulf Hekansson privat
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Friday, October 24, 2003 3:09 PM
Subject: Looking for previous owners
Anybody out there who can help me with the history of my car?
My BN2, carmine red with chassis no BN2-L/228514 was made in September 1955
for export to Dusseldorf, Germany. It was made for an American customer as
it
was ordered with a MPH speedometer.
Are there any records to help to find out who ordered the car, and what
options that were ordered.
The car was brought back to Europe for restoration 1996. Last owner in the
US
was Peter J Mustard of 711 5th Ave, Lyndhurst NJ. He obviously had owned
the
car since 1970.
Its last registration was in NJ with the no SCC575.
Anybody who knows anything about this car or knows if there are records
making
it possible to trace the earlier owners.
Thanks
Ulf /Sweden
From "Kent McLean" <kentmclean at mindspring.com>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2003 19:38:34 -0400
Subject: Re: Inquiry re Auto Trans for Big Healey
It's a long shot, but Larry Varley's site
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/austinnissan.html
mentions that Datsun (now Nissan) built cars under
license from Austin. They also built a competitor to
(OK, killed :-( ) the Big Healey with the 240-Z.
Although he says the 6-cylinder in the 240-Z didn't
come from a British design, I'm guessing it would
fit nicely, and it could be had with an automatic.
As suggested, the MGC engine and automatic
might work, but if it were my money, I'd fit the
Datsun 6-cylinder and automatic. It may also be
easier to find.
Cheers,
Kent
'56 100 BN2
From LarryRPH at aol.com
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2003 20:09:54 EDT
Subject: Re: Help in Illinois
No financial ineterst etc. - just a satisfied customer. He does excellent
work at a fair price. Very HEALEY knowledgable.
Good Luck
Larry Wysocki
BN 6
BJ 7
From Chris Dimmock <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2003 10:17:03 +1000
Subject: Re: Distributor Question
There are 2 different diameter "wheels" which ratchet to adjust the vacuum
advance found on most Healeys.
The most common one on the 25D distributor has 34 'clicks' per full turn.
One full turn is approx 3 crankshaft degrees.
11 clicks is approx 1 crankshaft degree.
Best regards
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Soderling" <jsoderling@ca.astound.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 24, 2003 12:21 PM
Subject: Distributor Question
> On a 25D Lucas distributor, how many clicks of the micro adjustor knob
equals
> one degree of advance or retard?
> Thanks.
> Vrooom vrooom,
> John
> 100-Six Erika the Red
From "Peter Linn" <greylinn at ozemail.com.au>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2003 10:34:26 +1000
Subject: Re: battery cable
I had a problem just this month on my (neg earth) BN1, with slow starter
cranking & the cables & solenoid heating up. Turned out to be the solenoid.
This was replaced & problem solved. I note you still have the original
solenoid.
Regards
Peter Linn
Brisbane Oz
BN1 Ward Special Coupe
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Pollock" <wjpollock@erols.com>
To: "list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 25, 2003 12:10 AM
Subject: battery cable
> On my neg ground 100-6,when the key is turned on the fuel pump works as
> well as all lights and turn signals with no trouble.
> The problem is when I hit the start button,I get a low sounding pop from
> the battery. The neg cable going to the cut off switch gets very hot to
> the touch and of course the starter does not engage. I have taken the
> cut off switch out and run the neg cable to direct frame ground but it
> does not make any difference.
>
> Cany anyone offer any suggestions where to go now. I have the organial
> solenoid switch and a rebuilt starter in the car from when I restored
> it 5 years ago.
>
> Thanks for any help
> Bill Pollock
From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2003 20:50:42 -0400
Subject: Re: Inquiry re Auto Trans for Big Healey
It's Friday night, and I don't mind preaching a little heresy.
If I had a "driver" big Healey, I would be very inclined to take out the BMC
engine, put it on a pallet in the corner for safekeeping/posterity, and drop
a Z-car engine and 5-speed into the car for daily driving. That Datsun
engine is a gem. I expect it may be both lighter and more powerful, and it's
definitely freer-breathing, higher reving and longer lasting.
I sold my 280ZX when it had 280,000 miles on the un-overhauled engine, and it
had lots more miles left in it.
--
John Miller
In case of injury notify your supervisor immediately. He'll kiss it and make
it better.
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2003 18:44:58 -0700
Subject: Healey Article
Must've been all the hits from The List ;)
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
From Bill Pollock <wjpollock at erols.com>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2003 21:24:49 -0400
Subject: battery cable
By the way way,the NY Times article was good and a tip of the hat to the
lady. She would be welcome to take my red 100 6 around the block
anytime,if I could get the darn thing started.
Bill Pollock
From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at comcast.net>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2003 19:36:31 -0700
Subject: RE: Inquiry re Auto Trans for Big Healey
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Kent McLean
Sent: Friday, October 24, 2003 4:39 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Inquiry re Auto Trans for Big Healey
Reid Trummel forwarded for Joe Quint:
> Assuming for a second that money was no object,
> is it possible to modify a Healey so that it can have
> automatic transmission?
It's a long shot, but Larry Varley's site
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/austinnissan.html
mentions that Datsun (now Nissan) built cars under
license from Austin. They also built a competitor to
(OK, killed :-( ) the Big Healey with the 240-Z.
Although he says the 6-cylinder in the 240-Z didn't
come from a British design, I'm guessing it would
fit nicely, and it could be had with an automatic.
As suggested, the MGC engine and automatic
might work, but if it were my money, I'd fit the
Datsun 6-cylinder and automatic. It may also be
easier to find.
Cheers,
Kent
'56 100 BN2
From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2003 21:37:32 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey Article
HAPPY HEALYING
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2003 21:41:04 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey Article in the New York Times
I made a copy for my daughter and will pass it on to her with the Healey
some day.
Thanks, Mark ( a blubbering idiot right now, someone pass me the
kleenex)
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2003 21:27:41 -0600
Subject: Re: Distributor Question
A quote from another source;
"One division of the scale is equal to four degrees. Count the "clicks"
on your adjuster nut between divisions, and divide by four for the
number of clicks per degree (generally about ten per degree, but check
your individual distributor)."
Dave Russell
BN2
Jerry Wall wrote:
> i believe 4 clicks = 1*
> John Soderling wrote:
> > > On a 25D Lucas distributor, how many clicks of the micro adjustor knob
>equals
> > one degree of advance or retard?
> > Thanks.
> > Vrooom vrooom,
> > John
From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2003 03:46:39 EDT
Subject: Re: Inquiry re Auto Trans for Big Healey
> If I had a "driver" big Healey, I would be very inclined to take out the
> BMC
> engine, put it on a pallet in the corner for safekeeping/posterity, and drop
>
> a Z-car engine and 5-speed into the car for daily driving.
>
> Just happen to have a very good z engine and 5 speed trans available if
> anyone is looking. And by the way I didn't pay John to bring this up !
> Aloha
> Perry
From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2003 04:26:43 -0500
Subject: Re: Inquiry re Auto Trans for Big Healey
> > Just happen to have a very good z engine and 5 speed trans available if
> > anyone is looking. And by the way I didn't pay John to bring this up !
> > Aloha
> > Perry
From "Moike Shepard" <shepard7107 at msn.com>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2003 06:15:04 -0400
Subject: Mr Mustard
From LarryRPH at aol.com
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2003 08:07:25 EDT
Subject: Re: Help in Illinois
Sorry about that.
Mark Baker's e-mail address is : mark@sportandspecialty.com
Larry Wysocki
BN 6
BJ 7
From "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK at peoplepc.com>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2003 09:59:41 -0400
Subject: Re: 100M color question
The book says only white, black and green cars had the dash in body color
but also says it was black on red cars and dark blue on Healey blue cars.
Is your raised instrument panel silver? What color is it on the back and
under the chrome handle and under the wood brace behind the handle?
Probably you could order matching color and leather covering was an option.
regards,
Peter
----- Original Message -----
From: Allen C. Miller, Jr. <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <bn1@pacbell.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2003 7:51 PM
Subject: Re: 100M color question
> If I may join the confusion, the dash color on our M is Healey blue, as
the
> body, and it appears that the paint is older than the respray color, and
to
> my eye, exactly like the vestiges of original blue in the 'hidden' areas
> (r.g., trunk, frame, etc). Is it possible that ours is in fact correctly
> colored like the other M colors? Car was produced as solid Healey Blue in
> October '55. I had taken this up with several listers, but the concensus
was
> that this was not very likely.
>
> allen miller (BN2/M 229089)
From "Bob Johnson" <robert.w.johnson at earthlink.net>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2003 09:56:39 -0400
Subject: Drain tubes of some sort??
Thanks,
Bob Johnson
BJ8
from the Healey lump and the conversion was (relatively) easy. I see on the
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2003 10:20:57 EDT
Subject: Re: Inquiry re Auto Trans for Big Healey
http://www.ntahc.org/modifiedhealeys/MembershipInfo/membershipinfo.htm
Nasty Healeying,
Rick
In a message dated 10/25/03 3:49:13 AM, Healeyguy@aol.com writes:
<<In a message dated 10/24/2003 2:52:20 PM Hawaiian Standard Time,
healeys@n4vu.com writes:
> If I had a "driver" big Healey, I would be very inclined to take out the
> BMC
> engine, put it on a pallet in the corner for safekeeping/posterity, and
drop
>
> a Z-car engine and 5-speed into the car for daily driving.
>
> Just happen to have a very good z engine and 5 speed trans available if
> anyone is looking. And by the way I didn't pay John to bring this up !
> Aloha
> Perry
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2003 10:50:32 EDT
Subject: Marda's Healey
From "Steve Byers" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2003 11:05:28 -0400
Subject: Re: Drain tubes of some sort??
The tubes allow raw fuel to drain out of the manifold during a cold start.
Try unplugging the bottom end with a needle or pin. They are attached to the
manifold with small nuts. Not easy to get to, but if the needle/pin doesn't
work, you can remove them and blow them out with compressed air. After you
get them off, it would be easier to fill them up with solvent and let it soak
for a while, if the compressed air doesn't work.
Good luck!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Johnson
To: healeys
Sent: Saturday, October 25, 2003 9:56 AM
Subject: Drain tubes of some sort??
On my BJ8, underneath the intake manifold, there are two small pipes, one
fore, one aft, that seem to be some sort of drain pipes. Is this what they
are? If so, does anyone know of a good method for getting them clear. At
least
one of mine is plugged shut at the bottom end, and so far soaking in parts
cleaner is not doing much.
Thanks,
Bob Johnson
BJ8
From "Greg Wilkinson" <gregwilkinson at adelphia.net>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2003 08:49:59 -0700
Subject: RE: Moss carpet kit install
Best,
Greg
67 BJ8
From "Adrian Boelen" <boelena at sympatico.ca>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2003 16:32:12 -0400
Subject: RE: dipper switch wiring harness route on BJ7.
> Can someone provide me the routing of the dipper switch wiring harness
> for a BJ7, from where it hooks onto the main harness. It appears to
run
> along the firewall through the large cable clamp over to the left side
> pedal box assembly. I cannot find where it enters the firewall or
> footwell. Some of the pictures that I have looked at shows it going
over
> and down the side of the pedal box assembly, but I cannot find a entry
> hole and others seem to enter the firewall above the pedal box. A lot
of
> metal has been replaced on this car.
> Thanks in advance
> Sam Austin
>
As yet, No BJ7 seems to have replied so here, for what it's worth, is
the routing my BJ8. Maybe it's similar. It runs, as you describe,
outboard of the pedal box then drops vertically and enters through a
grommetted hole
which is in a horizontal plane i.e. in the roof of the footwell. This
hole is situated about halfway between the angle at the bottom of the
clutch side of the pedal box and a point below the inboard side of the
flexible fresh air duct. From inside, it is lined up with the inboard
end and about 1.5" forward of the small rectangular fixed flap
horizontal opening which in theory directs fresh air at the driver's
left foot. I am reasonably confident that the metal work on my Healey in
this area is original. The wire then runs forward horizontally along
the ceiling of the footwell to the outboard corner, drops down along the
corner behind the carpeting and emerges beside the bracket which
supports the dip switch.
Good luck with it.
From Charlie Baldwin <ewsinc at suscom.net>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2003 18:51:14 -0400
Subject: Re: Inquiry re Auto Trans for Big Healey
I believe that the C series engine that is in the 6 cylinder Healeys was
used in other cars in the BMC range, albeit in a detuned form. The
Wolseley A110, I believe had that engine and could be had with an
automatic transmission. There was one in a junk yard here in
Pennsylvania that appeared to be the same engine with an automatic.
This particular car, if it is still there, has been in the junk yard
since at least the mid-seventies when I saw it, so I would imagine that
nothing is much good anymore. Perhaps our friends in the UK can shed
some light on this and perhaps come up with a transmission.
This can be done, however, those early automatic transmissions weren't
very impressive by today's standards.
Good luck,
Charlie
Reid Trummel wrote:
> Joe,
>
> I'm sending your original inquiry (below my signature) to the "Healeys
> Mail List" where hundreds of Healey owners/enthusiasts can have a look
> and potentially respond. I have no personal knolwedge of any Healeys
> that have had automatic transmissions transplanted, but it is very
> likely to have occurred somewhere, sometime. Unfortunately it
> probably also requires a engine transplant to go with the auto tranny,
> but in any case perhaps one of the people reading this will have some
> information and contact you directly.
>
> Regards,
> Reid
>
> Reid Trummel
> Portland, Oregon
> -----------------------
>
> Good morning,
>
> I came across your site after doing a search on Google - I'm hoping you
> can
> help, or point me towards someone who can.
>
> Assuming for a second that money was no object, is it possible to
> modify a
> Healey so that it can have automatic transmission?
>
> I ask this because my father always drove and loved Healeys. He
> recently
> passed away and I know that he would get a kick out of me owning a car
> like
> his (a '65 3000 Mark III). The only problem is that I have something
> wrong
> with my right leg and I can't - physically or legally - drive a manual
> transmission car.
>
> So.... can it be done? Is it crazy?
>
> Any help you can offer will be greatly appreciated.
>
> Best regards,
>
> Joe Quint
From ronfineesq <ronfineesq at earthlink.net>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2003 20:04:01 -0700
Subject: Hood rubber bumpers
From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2003 02:49:17 -0600
Subject: Re: Inquiry re Auto Trans for Big Healey
t----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie Baldwin" <ewsinc@suscom.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid@hotmail.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>; <joe@quintandquint.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 25, 2003 4:51 PM
Subject: Re: Inquiry re Auto Trans for Big Healey
> Joe, Reid, and list,
>
> I believe that the C series engine that is in the 6 cylinder Healeys was
> used in other cars in the BMC range, albeit in a detuned form. The
> Wolseley A110, I believe had that engine and could be had with an
> automatic transmission. There was one in a junk yard here in
> Pennsylvania that appeared to be the same engine with an automatic.
> This particular car, if it is still there, has been in the junk yard
> since at least the mid-seventies when I saw it, so I would imagine that
> nothing is much good anymore. Perhaps our friends in the UK can shed
> some light on this and perhaps come up with a transmission.
>
> This can be done, however, those early automatic transmissions weren't
> very impressive by today's standards.
>
> Good luck,
> Charlie
>
> Reid Trummel wrote:
>
> > Joe,
> >
> > I'm sending your original inquiry (below my signature) to the "Healeys
> > Mail List" where hundreds of Healey owners/enthusiasts can have a look
> > and potentially respond. I have no personal knolwedge of any Healeys
> > that have had automatic transmissions transplanted, but it is very
> > likely to have occurred somewhere, sometime. Unfortunately it
> > probably also requires a engine transplant to go with the auto tranny,
> > but in any case perhaps one of the people reading this will have some
> > information and contact you directly.
> >
> > Regards,
> > Reid
> >
> > Reid Trummel
> > Portland, Oregon
> > -----------------------
> >
> > Good morning,
> >
> > I came across your site after doing a search on Google - I'm hoping you
> > can
> > help, or point me towards someone who can.
> >
> > Assuming for a second that money was no object, is it possible to
> > modify a
> > Healey so that it can have automatic transmission?
> >
> > I ask this because my father always drove and loved Healeys. He
> > recently
> > passed away and I know that he would get a kick out of me owning a car
> > like
> > his (a '65 3000 Mark III). The only problem is that I have something
> > wrong
> > with my right leg and I can't - physically or legally - drive a manual
> > transmission car.
> >
> > So.... can it be done? Is it crazy?
> >
> > Any help you can offer will be greatly appreciated.
> >
> > Best regards,
> >
> > Joe Quint
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2003 06:07:26 -0600
Subject: Re: Hood rubber bumpers
From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2003 10:34:35 -0600
Subject: Re: Healey Article in the New York Times
From "Bob Brown" <BlkBT7 at aol.com>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2003 10:35:41 -0600
Subject: "Happy Wanders"
From Ron Fine <RonFineEsq at earthlink.net>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2003 08:48:04 -0800
Subject: Thanks
From "" <dsarah6 at excite.com>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2003 14:56:25 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Timing cover removal
_______________________________________________
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 17:12:32 -0500
Subject: RE: Timing cover removal
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of dsarah6@excite.com
Sent: Sunday, October 26, 2003 2:56 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Timing cover removal
Is it possible to remove the timing cover on a 3000 with the engine in
the car?Looks as if it there is not enough room between the crank pulley
and cross member to move the pulley forward enough to get it off the
crank. I want to replace the cover gasket and seal.Thanks for the help.
Nick - 1960 BT7 #5682
_______________________________________________
From "CRD" <crd at jasnetworks.net>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2003 18:18:39 -0500
Subject: Anybody home?
From "Esko & Megan Cate" <enmcate at comcast.net>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2003 16:36:35 -0800
Subject: RE: dipper switch wiring harness route on BJ7.
Esko
BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Adrian Boelen
Sent: Saturday, October 25, 2003 1:32 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: RE: dipper switch wiring harness route on BJ7.
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> From: James E Austin <ahbugeye1@juno.com>
> Subject: dipper switch wiring harness route on BJ7.
> Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2003 18:13:00 -0400
> -----
> Can someone provide me the routing of the dipper switch wiring harness
> for a BJ7, from where it hooks onto the main harness. It appears to
run
> along the firewall through the large cable clamp over to the left side
> pedal box assembly. I cannot find where it enters the firewall or
> footwell. Some of the pictures that I have looked at shows it going
over
> and down the side of the pedal box assembly, but I cannot find a entry
> hole and others seem to enter the firewall above the pedal box. A lot
of
> metal has been replaced on this car.
> Thanks in advance
> Sam Austin
>
As yet, No BJ7 seems to have replied so here, for what it's worth, is
the routing my BJ8. Maybe it's similar. It runs, as you describe,
outboard of the pedal box then drops vertically and enters through a
grommetted hole
which is in a horizontal plane i.e. in the roof of the footwell. This
hole is situated about halfway between the angle at the bottom of the
clutch side of the pedal box and a point below the inboard side of the
flexible fresh air duct. From inside, it is lined up with the inboard
end and about 1.5" forward of the small rectangular fixed flap
horizontal opening which in theory directs fresh air at the driver's
left foot. I am reasonably confident that the metal work on my Healey in
this area is original. The wire then runs forward horizontally along
the ceiling of the footwell to the outboard corner, drops down along the
corner behind the carpeting and emerges beside the bracket which
supports the dip switch.
Good luck with it.
From Charlie Frazer <cfrazer at ballmer.uoregon.edu>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2003 04:33:33 -0800
Subject: BJ8 Dash Replacement
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2003 17:24:52 -0800
Subject: Address for Kirk Kvam
Terry Blubaugh
Diamond Bar, CA
From Stella67 at aol.com
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2003 20:46:13 EST
Subject: BN7 help
First, I have been told that the spare tire cover has a metal "surround"
that fits inside the boot and hold the cover to the rear bulkhead. This car
does
not have a spare tire cover and the location for the spare tire was blocked
with plywood. I would appreciate knowing where I can get the metal retainer or
specifications so I can make one.
Second, the soft top frame appears to have some sort of metal rod protruding
from the bottom on one side, but not the other. What is this part? Should
there be one on each side?
Third, under the gas pedal, bolted to the floor is a small block that looks
like a gas pedal stop. I thought this was just someone's attempt to adjust the
gas pedal, but I was told that other day by a Healey guy that he has seen
them on this car before. I have done a number of Healeys and this is the first
I
have ever seen this item. I can't find it in the parts manual. Has anyone
ever seen this before (this is a very early tri-carb BN7)
Thanks,
John
From "CRD" <crd at jasnetworks.net>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2003 21:02:02 -0500
Subject: Anybody home?
I will check my barriers for changes. I just installed an updated Norton
AntiVirus and I'm sure there-in lies the issue.
Rick
GR8-BJ8
From N0040 at aol.com
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2003 21:36:06 EST
Subject: Re: BJ8 Dash Replacement
Replaced my original (delaminated and cracked finish, as all seem to have).
1. Purchased mine from V-B not Moss, but I'm sure they actually sell from the
same supplier. Mine was the solid walnut, not a burled veneer over plywood as
in original. The walnut was solid and a choice piece, all grain ran correctly
and the glove box door was cut from center of right hand piece so all grain
was in line and all hinged properly. I think the quality was excellent but not
a duplicate if you're looking for "concours".
It was correctly drilled for washer spray button, and hole sizing were right
on for each gauge.
2. Didn't look for other sources. Couldn't have refurbished original because
the delamination was too severe.
3. Don't know who Madera is, so have no comment.
Regards,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2003 20:49:11 -0600
Subject: gearbox rebuilding weekend! Need a couple of parts and pass the
then rebuild the original BJ-7 box and swap the two.
We had a hell of a time getting stuff together. Going through old boxes of
parts from Healey gearboxes trying to piece stuff out that was worth using. We
ended up finishing his gearbox but not quite finishing mine. Same old story.
I'm last priority. I supplied the beer, wine, liquor, food (and lots of it!)
and place to stay and his stuff gets worked on first. Actually, on my BJ-8 box
I can get into first and second but not reverse, or 3rd and 4th. I think that
it is just a matter of adjusting the shift lever mechanism and top cover.
On Karl's gearbox, we still need an adapter plate to the overdrive for a
sideshift box to an OD. The gearbox used to have a non-OD tailshaft with the
long mainshaft. We converted it with a shorter mainshaft to go with an OD.
This long shaft and tailshaft piece, we have in perfect shape if anybody wants
to trade or needs one.
For my BJ-8 gearbox, I'm looking for a shift lever. If anybody has one out
there for sale or trade please let me know.
One thing that we had a hell of a time with is the center first-second gear
shift rod. We had three to choose from and all had the pins stuck in them.
The pins on the two rods on my BJ-7 and BJ-8 boxes were fine. However, on
Karl's first and second gear shift rod we ended up punching out the old pin.
Then making a replacement pin out of an old gearbox needle bearing complete
with groove and all. It worked great!
At the rist of sounding redundant. I'm looking for an overdrive adapter plate
compatible with a sideshft gearbox and a centershift gearlever. Thanks a
lot!!!
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
Sturgeon Bay, WI.
63 BJ-7
From "Jim LeBlanc" <jleblanc at midsouth.rr.com>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2003 20:55:16 -0600
Subject: RE: Drain tubes of some sort??
Best Regards,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Johnson
Sent: Saturday, October 25, 2003 8:57 AM
To: healeys
Subject: Drain tubes of some sort??
On my BJ8, underneath the intake manifold, there are two small pipes,
one
fore, one aft, that seem to be some sort of drain pipes. Is this what
they
are? If so, does anyone know of a good method for getting them clear. At
least
one of mine is plugged shut at the bottom end, and so far soaking in
parts
cleaner is not doing much.
Thanks,
Bob Johnson
BJ8
From bj8healey at juno.com
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2003 22:27:21 -0500
Subject: Top Installation Video for BJ8
Somewhere there exists a two tape set of installation instructions for
BJ7s, and BJ8s which covers carpets, upholstery, trunk lining and most
importantly to me the Convertible Top. I have on back order from M**s
Motors such a set. Unfortunately, they have not had this item in stock
for many months and do not expect it to come in for several months. Due
to circumstances I am now in, I just can not go two or more months with
no top. The prior top is in shreds and has not been attached to the car
for over twelve years during storage/body off restoration (except for the
top)/more storage. I have had my car back since 2001 and used it only on
short hops on dry days here in southwest Florida. The reasons why I am
just now getting to putting on a top is a long boring story I will not
inflict upon you.
My questions are as follows:
1. Does anyone know of an alternate source from which I can purchase this
tape set?
2. Does anyone have this tape set that would sell, rent, loan or give to
me?
3. Does anyone have ANY installation video for a BJ8 top?
4. Does anyone have even a set of written instructions for installing a
BJ8 top?
M**s Motors says go to a professional installer. I imagine that would be
a good solution, but now that I am again physically able to work on my
car, I am determined to do it myself. I have owned this car for 34 years
and just want to have the satisfaction of doing this myself. I know you
folks understand that feeling.
If anyone can help, please contact me off list. bj8healey@juno.com
Thank you all for allowing my e-mail to come into your homes.
Topless in Florida,
Rob Fromm
'66 BJ8
From "Bob Brown" <BlkBT7 at aol.com>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2003 21:40:57 -0600
Subject: Happy Wanders
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2003 19:48:18 -0800
Subject: Early BN7 MK2
stella67@aol.com just posted a message to the list asking some questions about
restoring an early BN7 tri-carb.
I am starting the restoration on a second one of these and tried to answer his
questions, but got a curt response that he was not accepting email from me.
If anyone knows who he is, please assure him that my Norton AV is up to date,
and there is no reason to reject my emails.
John Snyder
From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2003 23:31:08 EST
Subject: Re: Early BN7 MK2
To reply through the list, hit "Reply All" and delete all addresses except
"healeys@autox.team.net"
Rick
San Diego
From Dave Carpenter <d.carpenter7 at verizon.net>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 00:10:06 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8 Dash Replacement
How about a boost gauge? that would flipout the Honda boys.
I picked up a card from a guy at the Hershey car show a couple weeks ago
and don't remeber where I put it. He had dashes for all brit cars and
his finish was excellent. I'll look for it tomorrow.
Dave
Charlie Frazer wrote:
>The previous owner of my 965 BJ8 drilled a 2" hole in the walnut dash above
>the steering wheel to install a clock. I don9t like the look of the clock,
>and I9d like to evaluate my options.
>1. Has anyone seen the replacement dashes offered by Moss, and what9s your
>evaluation of the quality? Do know if they come drilled for the manual
>washer pump plunger?
>2. Are there any alternative suppliers?
>3. Do you think a dash restoration specialist like Madera could deal with
>this problem for less money and/or better results?
>Thanks for your advice.
>Charlie Frazer
From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 04:25:42 -0500
Subject: Re: Top Installation Video for BJ8
I have the Moss videos, and would be glad to send them to you. I do not
recall that they include installing a top, but I installed my top myself and
can give you some instructions on how to do it if the videos don't.
I'm leaving on a business trip in about two minutes, so will not be able to
follow up on this until after I return on Thursday.
Cheers!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: bj8healey@juno.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, October 26, 2003 10:27 PM
Subject: Top Installation Video for BJ8
Dear Listers,
Somewhere there exists a two tape set of installation instructions for
BJ7s, and BJ8s which covers carpets, upholstery, trunk lining and most
importantly to me the Convertible Top. I have on back order from M**s
Motors such a set. Unfortunately, they have not had this item in stock
for many months and do not expect it to come in for several months. Due
to circumstances I am now in, I just can not go two or more months with
no top. The prior top is in shreds and has not been attached to the car
for over twelve years during storage/body off restoration (except for the
top)/more storage. I have had my car back since 2001 and used it only on
short hops on dry days here in southwest Florida. The reasons why I am
just now getting to putting on a top is a long boring story I will not
inflict upon you.
My questions are as follows:
1. Does anyone know of an alternate source from which I can purchase this
tape set?
2. Does anyone have this tape set that would sell, rent, loan or give to
me?
3. Does anyone have ANY installation video for a BJ8 top?
4. Does anyone have even a set of written instructions for installing a
BJ8 top?
M**s Motors says go to a professional installer. I imagine that would be
a good solution, but now that I am again physically able to work on my
car, I am determined to do it myself. I have owned this car for 34 years
and just want to have the satisfaction of doing this myself. I know you
folks understand that feeling.
If anyone can help, please contact me off list. bj8healey@juno.com
Thank you all for allowing my e-mail to come into your homes.
Topless in Florida,
Rob Fromm
'66 BJ8
From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 07:33:03 -0500
Subject: RE: Happy Wanders
> [Original Message]
> From: Bob Brown <BlkBT7@aol.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 10/26/03 10:41:36 PM
> Subject: Happy Wanders
From "Bob Johnson" <robert.w.johnson at earthlink.net>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 07:58:44 -0500
Subject: Muffler bracket, clamps
I may have had a small epiphananic event yesterday while trying to reinstall
my front muffler clamps. I was having trouble getting the L-shaped bracket
into a useable position so that those 2 round holding rings that mount to the
bracket would be out of the way so that I could install "real" muffler clamps.
The way it should be is... the foor of the foot on the rubber mounted bracket
should face forward, rught? The foot of the L-shaped bracket that holds the
two "holding rings" should have the L facing forward. Those 2 "rings are
actually the clamps, right? One question left then... do the tongues on these
clamps fit with both sides above or below the bracket, or fit one tongue above
and one below, or does it really make any difference?
Thanks,
Bob Johnson
BJ8
Hmmm... Listers... does anyone else remember those mean looking Lister Jags
that raced back in the late 50's at VIR and elsewhere?
From "Ron Davies" <rdavies1 at cox.net>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 06:25:37 -0800
Subject: RE: BJ8 Dash Replacement
The previous owner of my 965 BJ8 drilled a 2" hole in the walnut dash above
the steering wheel to install a clock. I don9t like the look of the clock,
and I9d like to evaluate my options.
1. Has anyone seen the replacement dashes offered by Moss, and what9s your
evaluation of the quality? Do know if they come drilled for the manual
washer pump plunger?
2. Are there any alternative suppliers?
3. Do you think a dash restoration specialist like Madera could deal with
this problem for less money and/or better results?
Thanks for your advice.
Charlie Frazer
From Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 06:33:32 -0800
Subject: Rebushing kingpins
Seems like this would be something one of the clubs would invest in.
Any kind soul willing to loan me one for a weekend?
At the mercy of the guy with the special tool.
Tracy
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 08:25:14 -0600
Subject: Re: BN7 help
Let me see if I can help.
> First, I have been told that the spare tire cover has a metal "surround"
>that fits inside the boot and hold the cover to the rear bulkhead. This
>car does
>not have a spare tire cover and the location for the spare tire was blocked
>with plywood. I would appreciate knowing where I can get the metal
>retainer or
>specifications so I can make one.
First - get rid of the plywood, false wall. That's got to go if you want to
put the spare in its propper place. The Spare sits on the rear deck
centered between the two seats. There is a spare tire cover made of carpet
on the top and around the sides covering the treads. The bottom is vinyl.
The tire is held in place by a two-piece leather strap, roughly one inch
wide. The strap is retained to the front of the rear bulk head, right above
the transmission drive shaft tunnel. If you pull back the carpet in that
area, you will find the two holes used to retain a small chrome handle.
This chrome handle feeds through the looped end of the long leather strap.
The strap is fed through a small opening at the center of the spare tire
cover. The strap is fed through a long interior channel pocket down, what
would be the front of the tire, into the boot. In the boot, centered on the
back wall, below the rear shelf, you will find two similar holes, like those
described earlier. These too also retain a similar chrome handle which
feeds through the looped end of the small buckled leather strap. The buckle
attacheds to the long leather strap, now protruding from the spare tire
cover in the boot.
>
>Second, the soft top frame appears to have some sort of metal rod
>protruding
>from the bottom on one side, but not the other. What is this part? Should
>there be one on each side?
>
I assume you're referring to the back of the top where it meets and attaches
to the the rear shroud. These slide under the tear drop shaped chrome tabs
attached to the rear shroud, between the boot lid and rear cock pit trim.
>Third, under the gas pedal, bolted to the floor is a small block that looks
>like a gas pedal stop. I thought this was just someone's attempt to adjust
>the
>gas pedal, but I was told that other day by a Healey guy that he has seen
>them on this car before. I have done a number of Healeys and this is the
>first I
>have ever seen this item. I can't find it in the parts manual. Has anyone
>ever seen this before (this is a very early tri-carb BN7)
I'll have to double check but I don't recall a block on my BN7. Then again
mine is a very early Mk I. I'll let you know if I find one.
Good luck.
Carlos Cruz
'60 BN7
_________________________________________________________________
Never get a busy signal because you are always connected with high-speed
Internet access. Click here to comparison-shop providers.
https://broadband.msn.com
From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 09:41:14 -0600
Subject: RE: Inquiry re Auto Trans for Big Healey
-----Original Message-----
From: HoYo [mailto:hoyo@bellsouth.net]
Sent: Sunday, October 26, 2003 2:49 AM
To: Charlie Baldwin; Reid Trummel
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net; joe@quintandquint.com
Subject: Re: Inquiry re Auto Trans for Big Healey
The C tranny was a BW 35 , Borg Warner model 35 ...a popular auto used
in
several Brit rigs.......got at least one in the scrap metal pile out
back...was also used in MGB and some Jags i think.........getting
weak,daylight savings time,gotta go sleep.......HoYo
t----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie Baldwin" <ewsinc@suscom.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid@hotmail.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>; <joe@quintandquint.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 25, 2003 4:51 PM
Subject: Re: Inquiry re Auto Trans for Big Healey
> Joe, Reid, and list,
>
> I believe that the C series engine that is in the 6 cylinder Healeys
was
> used in other cars in the BMC range, albeit in a detuned form. The
> Wolseley A110, I believe had that engine and could be had with an
> automatic transmission. There was one in a junk yard here in
> Pennsylvania that appeared to be the same engine with an automatic.
> This particular car, if it is still there, has been in the junk yard
> since at least the mid-seventies when I saw it, so I would imagine
that
> nothing is much good anymore. Perhaps our friends in the UK can shed
> some light on this and perhaps come up with a transmission.
>
> This can be done, however, those early automatic transmissions weren't
> very impressive by today's standards.
>
> Good luck,
> Charlie
>
> Reid Trummel wrote:
>
> > Joe,
> >
> > I'm sending your original inquiry (below my signature) to the
"Healeys
> > Mail List" where hundreds of Healey owners/enthusiasts can have a
look
> > and potentially respond. I have no personal knolwedge of any
Healeys
> > that have had automatic transmissions transplanted, but it is very
> > likely to have occurred somewhere, sometime. Unfortunately it
> > probably also requires a engine transplant to go with the auto
tranny,
> > but in any case perhaps one of the people reading this will have
some
> > information and contact you directly.
> >
> > Regards,
> > Reid
> >
> > Reid Trummel
> > Portland, Oregon
> > -----------------------
> >
> > Good morning,
> >
> > I came across your site after doing a search on Google - I'm hoping
you
> > can
> > help, or point me towards someone who can.
> >
> > Assuming for a second that money was no object, is it possible to
> > modify a
> > Healey so that it can have automatic transmission?
> >
> > I ask this because my father always drove and loved Healeys. He
> > recently
> > passed away and I know that he would get a kick out of me owning a
car
> > like
> > his (a '65 3000 Mark III). The only problem is that I have something
> > wrong
> > with my right leg and I can't - physically or legally - drive a
manual
> > transmission car.
> >
> > So.... can it be done? Is it crazy?
> >
> > Any help you can offer will be greatly appreciated.
> >
> > Best regards,
> >
> > Joe Quint
From Ed Santoro <esantoro at drbc.state.nj.us>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 11:38:32 -0500
Subject: (no subject)
"Brashear, Jack, N" wrote:
> The Borg Warner Type 35 automatic was indeed used in several British
> cars. A friend here has one in her MGC and I have one in my 73ish
> Austin Marina. Y'all know the MGC has a 6 cyl engine similar to the
big
> Healey and the Marina has an 18V engine just like an MGB. It works
> great in my Marina which, by the way, will soon be for sale.
> Jack
From "R.J. Denton" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 10:30:01 -0600
Subject: Re: Inquiry re Auto Trans for Big Healey
Another Marina story. Anthony Armstrong Jones came over to promote British
Products in America. Peter Satori Imports in Pasadena was to provide him with a
car. Peter tried to give him a Jaguar or a Rolls. Armstrong Jones insisted on
an Austin Marina. Three blocks down the road, it stopped. They brought him back
to the dealership and he insisted on another. When it broke the next day, he
settled for a Jag.
Bob Denton
"Brashear, Jack, N" wrote:
> The Borg Warner Type 35 automatic was indeed used in several British
> cars. A friend here has one in her MGC and I have one in my 73ish
> Austin Marina. Y'all know the MGC has a 6 cyl engine similar to the big
> Healey and the Marina has an 18V engine just like an MGB. It works
> great in my Marina which, by the way, will soon be for sale.
> Jack
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: HoYo [mailto:hoyo@bellsouth.net]
> Sent: Sunday, October 26, 2003 2:49 AM
> To: Charlie Baldwin; Reid Trummel
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net; joe@quintandquint.com
> Subject: Re: Inquiry re Auto Trans for Big Healey
>
> The C tranny was a BW 35 , Borg Warner model 35 ...a popular auto used
> in
> several Brit rigs.......got at least one in the scrap metal pile out
> back...was also used in MGB and some Jags i think.........getting
> weak,daylight savings time,gotta go sleep.......HoYo
>
> t----- Original Message -----
> From: "Charlie Baldwin" <ewsinc@suscom.net>
> To: "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid@hotmail.com>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>; <joe@quintandquint.com>
> Sent: Saturday, October 25, 2003 4:51 PM
> Subject: Re: Inquiry re Auto Trans for Big Healey
>
> > Joe, Reid, and list,
> >
> > I believe that the C series engine that is in the 6 cylinder Healeys
> was
> > used in other cars in the BMC range, albeit in a detuned form. The
> > Wolseley A110, I believe had that engine and could be had with an
> > automatic transmission. There was one in a junk yard here in
> > Pennsylvania that appeared to be the same engine with an automatic.
> > This particular car, if it is still there, has been in the junk yard
> > since at least the mid-seventies when I saw it, so I would imagine
> that
> > nothing is much good anymore. Perhaps our friends in the UK can shed
> > some light on this and perhaps come up with a transmission.
> >
> > This can be done, however, those early automatic transmissions weren't
> > very impressive by today's standards.
> >
> > Good luck,
> > Charlie
> >
> > Reid Trummel wrote:
> >
> > > Joe,
> > >
> > > I'm sending your original inquiry (below my signature) to the
> "Healeys
> > > Mail List" where hundreds of Healey owners/enthusiasts can have a
> look
> > > and potentially respond. I have no personal knolwedge of any
> Healeys
> > > that have had automatic transmissions transplanted, but it is very
> > > likely to have occurred somewhere, sometime. Unfortunately it
> > > probably also requires a engine transplant to go with the auto
> tranny,
> > > but in any case perhaps one of the people reading this will have
> some
> > > information and contact you directly.
> > >
> > > Regards,
> > > Reid
> > >
> > > Reid Trummel
> > > Portland, Oregon
> > > -----------------------
> > >
> > > Good morning,
> > >
> > > I came across your site after doing a search on Google - I'm hoping
> you
> > > can
> > > help, or point me towards someone who can.
> > >
> > > Assuming for a second that money was no object, is it possible to
> > > modify a
> > > Healey so that it can have automatic transmission?
> > >
> > > I ask this because my father always drove and loved Healeys. He
> > > recently
> > > passed away and I know that he would get a kick out of me owning a
> car
> > > like
> > > his (a '65 3000 Mark III). The only problem is that I have something
> > > wrong
> > > with my right leg and I can't - physically or legally - drive a
> manual
> > > transmission car.
> > >
> > > So.... can it be done? Is it crazy?
> > >
> > > Any help you can offer will be greatly appreciated.
> > >
> > > Best regards,
> > >
> > > Joe Quint
From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 12:06:05 -0500
Subject: Louisiana Law!!
The driver rolls down the window and WHACK, the cop smacks him in the head
with the stick.
"What the hell was that for?" the driver asks.
"You're in Louisiana, Boy," the trooper answers. "When we pull you over, you'd
better have your license ready when we get to your car."
"I'm sorry, officer," the driver says, "I'm not from around here."
The trooper runs a check on the guy's license--he's clean--and gives the guy
his license back.
The trooper then walks around to the passenger side and taps on the window.
The passenger rolls down the window and WHACK, the trooper smacks him on he
head with the nightstick.
"What'd you do that for?" the passenger asks.
"Just making your wish come true," replies the trooper.
"Making WHAT wish come true?" the passenger asks.
"Because I know," the trooper says, "that two miles down the road you're gonna
turn to your buddy and say, "I wish that guy would've tried that with me!"
From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 11:23:11 -0600
Subject: RE: Inquiry re Auto Trans for Big Healey plus Marina story
-----Original Message-----
From: R.J. Denton [mailto:foxriverkid@earthlink.net]
Sent: Monday, October 27, 2003 10:30 AM
To: Brashear, Jack, N; List, Healey
Subject: Re: Inquiry re Auto Trans for Big Healey
Good grief, you have a Marina that is still alive? In the seventies, I
made a
bid to buy BMC of Oceanside from the gal who owned Downey Imports. The
bid was
accepted in principle. There was basically nothing in her inventory but
the day
before we were to have our bank do the official inventory, she trucked
20
Marinas down to Oceanside and included them in the count. Needless to
say it
killed the deal.
Another Marina story. Anthony Armstrong Jones came over to promote
British
Products in America. Peter Satori Imports in Pasadena was to provide him
with a
car. Peter tried to give him a Jaguar or a Rolls. Armstrong Jones
insisted on
an Austin Marina. Three blocks down the road, it stopped. They brought
him back
to the dealership and he insisted on another. When it broke the next
day, he
settled for a Jag.
Bob Denton
From m.brouillette at comcast.net
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 17:52:54 +0000
Subject: Missing 100S found on Ebay ;-)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6783&item=2439747682
From "Vink, Graham" <vinkg at fleishman.com>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 12:15:45 -0600
Subject: Another Marina story (was inquiry re Auto Trans for Big Healey)
The Marina at least would start, but while driving along a motorway,
light smoke started pouring out of the dash vents. Evidently the blower
fan motor or something similar had shorted out. We kept the car, for
fear of what they would give us next, but had no heat or defrost. A few
days later, I was backing out of a driveway and caught the lip of the
bumper on a brick wall, pulling it out at a 45-degree angle.
I expected my father to be furious (I was 18), but he was so angry at
the rental company for renting us two pieces of s--- that he didn't
care. And we were fully insured with no deductible. So we pushed back
the bumper back to more or less straight, and kept going.
Then I lost a few wheel covers from clipping curbs, and the hood
(bonnet) was perpetually ajar, held only by the safety latch, so we were
constantly being honked (hooted) at by concerned motorists, wanting to
let us know about the problem.
We flew out of Edinburgh and dumped the car at the airport, handing the
keys to an airline clerk. Two weeks later, in London, the rental company
tracked us down, wanting to know whether the car was. We said we didn't
know and we didn't care ...
Graham
-----Original Message-----
From: R.J. Denton [mailto:foxriverkid@earthlink.net]
Sent: Monday, October 27, 2003 11:30 AM
To: Brashear, Jack, N; List, Healey
Subject: Re: Inquiry re Auto Trans for Big Healey
Good grief, you have a Marina that is still alive? In the seventies, I
made a bid to buy BMC of Oceanside from the gal who owned Downey
Imports. The bid was accepted in principle. There was basically nothing
in her inventory but the day before we were to have our bank do the
official inventory, she trucked 20 Marinas down to Oceanside and
included them in the count. Needless to say it killed the deal.
Another Marina story. Anthony Armstrong Jones came over to promote
British Products in America. Peter Satori Imports in Pasadena was to
provide him with a car. Peter tried to give him a Jaguar or a Rolls.
Armstrong Jones insisted on an Austin Marina. Three blocks down the
road, it stopped. They brought him back to the dealership and he
insisted on another. When it broke the next day, he settled for a Jag.
Bob Denton
From "Larry Mercier" <lmercibn6 at mindspring.com>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 13:21:54 -0500
Subject: Re: BN7 help
----- Original Message -----
From: <Stella67@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 26, 2003 8:46 PM
Subject: BN7 help
> I am in the process of restoring a BN7 and could us some help. I have
never
> worked on a BN7 before so I need some help in a couple of items.
>
> First, I have been told that the spare tire cover has a metal "surround"
> that fits inside the boot and hold the cover to the rear bulkhead. This
car does
> not have a spare tire cover and the location for the spare tire was
blocked
> with plywood. I would appreciate knowing where I can get the metal
retainer or
> specifications so I can make one.
>
> Second, the soft top frame appears to have some sort of metal rod
protruding
> from the bottom on one side, but not the other. What is this part? Should
> there be one on each side?
>
> Third, under the gas pedal, bolted to the floor is a small block that
looks
> like a gas pedal stop. I thought this was just someone's attempt to
adjust the
> gas pedal, but I was told that other day by a Healey guy that he has seen
> them on this car before. I have done a number of Healeys and this is the
first I
> have ever seen this item. I can't find it in the parts manual. Has
anyone
> ever seen this before (this is a very early tri-carb BN7)
>
> Thanks,
> John
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 13:43:34 EST
Subject: Re: V1 #987
<< Check out your local Harley dealership. Anything chrome and small,
think HD dealership. >>
Good idea - They're also great for anything with leather and buckles. Only
place I've found a good roller buckle like the kind that was originally used on
to retain the spare tires. If you want the original leather hold-downs for
your bonnet like those used on the rally cars, likewise. Stuff is substantial,
heavy and nicely chromed.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
editor, Classic Motorsports
From "Vink, Graham" <vinkg at fleishman.com>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 12:56:57 -0600
Subject: RE: Missing 100S found on Ebay ;-)
:)
-Graham
-----Original Message-----
From: m.brouillette@comcast.net [mailto:m.brouillette@comcast.net]
Sent: Monday, October 27, 2003 12:53 PM
To: List Healeys
Subject: Missing 100S found on Ebay ;-)
Look at this ex alloy bodied 54 Healey race car on Ebay. Grill looks a
bit ill fitted. One can only dream...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6783&i
tem=2439747682
***
From Jnhorn at aol.com
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 14:18:15 EST
Subject: Roller buckles - Harleys?
Jon Einhorn
BJ8
From Ed Santoro <esantoro at drbc.state.nj.us>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 14:45:16 -0500
Subject: Re: (no subject)
Ed Santoro wrote:
> I have a Borg Warner Auto trans with torque converter and flywheel for
> sale to
> anyone interested. it worked fine when in the car it came out of my 69
> Marcos.
> Please contact me off the list. EDS
>
> "Brashear, Jack, N" wrote:
>
> > The Borg Warner Type 35 automatic was indeed used in several British
> > cars. A friend here has one in her MGC and I have one in my 73ish
> > Austin Marina. Y'all know the MGC has a 6 cyl engine similar to the
> big
> > Healey and the Marina has an 18V engine just like an MGB. It works
> > great in my Marina which, by the way, will soon be for sale.
> > Jack
From "M Lempert" <mlempert at bellsouth.net>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 15:37:47 -0500
Subject: Fuel Gauge Q
Thanks,
Mike L.
From "Dean" <dht at erols.com>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 15:46:34 -0500
Subject: Fw: [CAAHC] mark ur calendar/set your VCR
I'm afraid this only applies to those of you who have satellite television
such as Direct TV.
The Fine Living Channel on Friday nights have what they call Transportation
Night with a further subdivision called CARography. It is very interesting
about all the various marques.
On October 17 at 10 PM they ran a half hour show all about Donald Healey and
his cars. I wrote to the Fine Living people about when it would be rerun and
below are the times and dates. This is not a rerun of what the History
Channel ran a while back. It looks like it was taped around Open Roads time
as one of the cars shown has a Open Roads magnetic sign on the side of the
car. I think the people interviewed were Golden Gate members.
In as much as I am not on the Big Healey List, perhaps someone could forward
this message to that list?
Hope you enjoy.
Allen Feldman
----- Original Message -----
From: Fine Living
To: Allen Feldman
Sent: Monday, October 27, 2003 11:18 AM
Subject: RE:{Talisma41#003-839-126}CARography
Thank you for your email. I have listed the air times below. I hope this
helps and thank you for watching.
All times are Eastern:
FLCAR-315 SUN 11/2/2003 4:00 AM
FLCAR-315 FRI 11/7/2003 10:00 PM
FLCAR-315 FRI 11/7/2003 1:00 AM
-----Original Message-----
From: mapper500@starpower.net (mapper500@starpower.net)
Date: Tuesday, October 21, 2003 10:02 AM
To: comments@fineliving.com (comments@fineliving.com)
Subject: CARography
You ran a story on the Austin Healey on 10/17/2003 at 10 PM Eastern Daylight
Time. Please advise when that will be rerun?
Thanks You.
Allen Feldman
Allen Feldman
14616 Boat House Way
North Potomac, MD 20878
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
From James Sailer <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 14:35:56 -0700
Subject: Re: BJ8 Dash Replacement
Worth it.
Jim Sailer 66 BJ8
From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 13:38:34 -0800
Subject: RE: BJ8 Dash Replacement
From James Sailer <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 14:51:00 -0700
Subject: RE: BJ8 Dash Replacement
Russ Bork is a great guy, I have bought veneer from him in the past for
making my cedar strip kayaks... I believe he would even apply the veneer to
a clean dash. My dash was warped.. hense why I bought a new dash..
Jim Sail
66 BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: Freese, Ken [mailto:Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com]
Sent: Monday, October 27, 2003 2:39 PM
To: 'James Sailer'; Healey List; cfrazer@ballmer.uoregon.edu
Subject: RE: BJ8 Dash Replacement
My car has a red interior and the wood appears very blonde. I can't recall
seeing replacement wood that light. Will even the dark replacement dash's
get blonde eventually? I like the blond color on the red.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 16:13:30 -0600
Subject: Louisiana Law!!
> MessageTwo men are driving through Louisiana in their BJ8 when they get
pulled
> over by a State Trooper. The cop walks up and taps on the window with his
> nightstick.
>
> The driver rolls down the window and WHACK, the cop smacks him in the head
> with the stick.
>
> "What the hell was that for?" the driver asks.
>
> "You're in Louisiana, Boy," the trooper answers. "When we pull you over,
you'd
> better have your license ready when we get to your car."
>
> "I'm sorry, officer," the driver says, "I'm not from around here."
>
> The trooper runs a check on the guy's license--he's clean--and gives the
guy
> his license back.
>
> The trooper then walks around to the passenger side and taps on the
window.
>
> The passenger rolls down the window and WHACK, the trooper smacks him on
he
> head with the nightstick.
>
> "What'd you do that for?" the passenger asks.
>
> "Just making your wish come true," replies the trooper.
>
> "Making WHAT wish come true?" the passenger asks.
>
> "Because I know," the trooper says, "that two miles down the road you're
gonna
> turn to your buddy and say, "I wish that guy would've tried that with me!"
From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 16:23:11 -0600
Subject: Looking for Trafficator Parts
I am about to try to restore my trafficator since externally it is fine, but
is missing several internal parts. Here is a list of my needs. The number
refers to the diagram on page 173 of Norman Nock's Tech Talk book.
- Indicatory Axel (#12)
- Springs (#16), washer (#17) and spring holder (#20)
- Hinges (#22)
- Indicator Lever (#15)
Does anyone have the below parts laying around and would like to sell them?
David Nock thinks they don't have the Indicator Axel available right now,
and I would rather restore mine than replace if possible.
Thanks
Patton
-------------------------------------
Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
Austin-Healey BN4
For Sale - 1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert
From James Sailer <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 15:34:06 -0700
Subject: Wanted - Used BJ8 Voltage regulator
Am changing to an alternator in my BJ8 and would like to find a used
(doesn't even have to work) voltage regulator to use a a junction box. All
I really need is the back plate that mounts to the firewall. I can then use
my current BJ8 cover. I hate to bust up my perfectly good one.
Thanks.
Jim Sailer 66 BJ8
From "Tracy Drummond" <bighealey at charter.net>
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 17:40:53 -0500
Subject: Re: Missing 100S found on Ebay ;-)
I believe this to be a thrashed 100.
On Mon, 27 Oct 2003 12:56:57 -0600
"Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com> wrote:
>There doesn't seem to be any shill bidding on this
>auction ...
>
>:)
>
>-Graham
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: m.brouillette@comcast.net
>[mailto:m.brouillette@comcast.net]
>Sent: Monday, October 27, 2003 12:53 PM
>To: List Healeys
>Subject: Missing 100S found on Ebay ;-)
>
>
>Look at this ex alloy bodied 54 Healey race car on Ebay.
> Grill looks a
>bit ill fitted. One can only dream...
>
>
>http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6783&i
>tem=2439747682
>
>***
From "M Lempert" <mlempert at bellsouth.net>
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 17:45:12 -0500
Subject: Re: Fuel Gauge Q
Mike L.
> Mike
> The gauge and sender are matched to function properly. You may hit a
combination that works but most do not read correctly.
> Aloha
> Perry
From "Roy Bowman" <ei_timo415 at earthlink.net>
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 17:54:52 -0500
Subject: Words of Weber Wisdom
I have a 1965 BJ8 early phase II with pretty much
stock setup, including twin 2 " SU carbs.
On a basement shelf, I have a set of triple Weber DCOE
45's together with a Warneford intake manifold and exhaust
headers. Prior owner claimed this setup was previously on
his Healey before going back to a stock arrangement.
Although I have no illusions of going vintage racing, I would
like to put them on my car. What are the disadvantages of doing
so ? Gas mileage ? Any structural surgery required to make
them fit ? (I notice in the SC Parts catalog, they have a special
pedal box for Webers in a LH drive Healey).
Thoughts ?
Roy
Roy Bowman
ei_timo415@earthlink.net
Why Wait? Move to EarthLink.
From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 18:10:36 -0500
Subject: RE: Wanted - Used BJ8 Voltage regulator
tom
> [Original Message]
> From: James Sailer <heliskier@direcway.com>
> To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 10/27/03 5:38:33 PM
> Subject: Wanted - Used BJ8 Voltage regulator
>
> Hi All,
>
> Am changing to an alternator in my BJ8 and would like to find a used
> (doesn't even have to work) voltage regulator to use a a junction box.
All
> I really need is the back plate that mounts to the firewall. I can then
use
> my current BJ8 cover. I hate to bust up my perfectly good one.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Jim Sailer 66 BJ8
From Jon McLeroy <jfm at spyderinternet.com>
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 17:20:29 -0600
Subject: Re: Louisiana Law!!
It ain't Friday but that'll do.
I'm sure Ho Yo will have something to say ;-). I to have lived in LA. near
Church Point.
Love it.
Jon
Classic Auto Lubes
12803 CR 1222
Tyler, Tx. 75709
Ph: 903-561-4858
Fax: 903-561-7177
Email: jfm@spyderinternet.com
www.classicautolubes.com
At 12:06 PM 10/27/03 -0500, you wrote:
>MessageTwo men are driving through Louisiana in their BJ8 when they get pulled
>over by a State Trooper. The cop walks up and taps on the window with his
>nightstick.
>
>The driver rolls down the window and WHACK, the cop smacks him in the head
>with the stick.
>
>"What the hell was that for?" the driver asks.
>
>"You're in Louisiana, Boy," the trooper answers. "When we pull you over, you'd
>better have your license ready when we get to your car."
>
>"I'm sorry, officer," the driver says, "I'm not from around here."
>
>The trooper runs a check on the guy's license--he's clean--and gives the guy
>his license back.
>
>The trooper then walks around to the passenger side and taps on the window.
>
>The passenger rolls down the window and WHACK, the trooper smacks him on he
>head with the nightstick.
>
>"What'd you do that for?" the passenger asks.
>
>"Just making your wish come true," replies the trooper.
>
>"Making WHAT wish come true?" the passenger asks.
>
>"Because I know," the trooper says, "that two miles down the road you're gonna
>turn to your buddy and say, "I wish that guy would've tried that with me!"
--
This message has been scanned for viruses and
dangerous content by our MailScanner, and is
believed to be clean.
From Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 18:55:12 -0500
Subject: anti-roll bar
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 20:42:17 EST
Subject: Re: Words of Weber Wisdom
I can only offer some anecdotal evidence, but one friend had triple webers on
his modified BJ8 and got so frustrated trying to get them to run properly
that he removed them. Possibly, the previous owner of your car had the same
experience causing him to go back to his original carbs. Webers are generally
great on race cars, but are more difficult to set up for street driven
machines.
On the other hand, they sure do look fantastic when you open the hood.
Happy Healeying,
Rick
In a message dated 10/27/03 6:56:08 PM, ei_timo415@earthlink.net writes:
<<hat's what I'm seeking from you all.
I have a 1965 BJ8 early phase II with pretty much
stock setup, including twin 2 " SU carbs.
On a basement shelf, I have a set of triple Weber DCOE
45's together with a Warneford intake manifold and exhaust
headers. Prior owner claimed this setup was previously on
his Healey before going back to a stock arrangement.
Although I have no illusions of going vintage racing, I would
like to put them on my car. What are the disadvantages of doing
so ? Gas mileage ? Any structural surgery required to make
them fit ? (I notice in the SC Parts catalog, they have a special
pedal box for Webers in a LH drive Healey).
Thoughts ?
Roy
Roy Bowman
ei_timo415@earthlink.net
Why Wait? Move to EarthLink.>>
From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 20:08:37 -0600
Subject: Help! Problem rebuilding BJ-8 gearbox
Two are about 3/4 of an inch long and are well rounded on the ends. The third
plunger is 1/2 inch long and well rounded on the ends. Now, the slider hub
assembly for 3rd and 4th gears has a provision for these two plungers. It the
last attempt I put the two longer (3/4 inch) plungers in two holes of the
slider hub. Perhaps it is these plungers that are preventing the hub from
sliding. Maybe one is sticking,..there was a little resistance present when I
put one of them in. Also, I have a couple of extra 3rd/4th gear slider hubs but
they are for earlier gearboxes and do not have the two plunger holes nor does
the collar extend toward the front of the gearbox as far. If these would be
interchangleable I would switch. Does anybody out there know if these can be
switched into a BJ-8 box? Which size is the correct size for the plunger?
What could be contributing to the slider hub not sliding. I have had the box
apart many times over trying to remedy this situation. I can have it all apart
in about 30 minutes now and all together in less than an hour,...that is if I
get the laygear in place easily. Advice is greatly, greatly, greatly
appreciated here. Thanks!!!!!
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
63 BJ-7
Sturgeon Bay, WI.
From bj8healey at juno.com
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 22:54:14 -0500
Subject: Response to my plea for installation videos
You are really a great bunch of people.
Thanks,
Rob
Robert T. Fromm (Rob)
136 Fairway Circle
Naples, FL 34110-1116
'66 BJ8
________________________________________________________________
From Charlie Baldwin <ewsinc at suscom.net>
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 23:19:43 -0500
Subject: Leather and buckles
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>In a message dated 10/27/03 11:17:26 AM, owner-healeys-digest@autox.team.net
>writes:
>
><< Check out your local Harley dealership. Anything chrome and small,
>think HD dealership. >>
>
>Good idea - They're also great for anything with leather and buckles. Only
>place I've found a good roller buckle like the kind that was originally used
>on
>to retain the spare tires. If you want the original leather hold-downs for
>your bonnet like those used on the rally cars, likewise. Stuff is substantial,
>heavy and nicely chromed.
>
>Cheers
>Gary Anderson
>editor, Classic Motorsports
From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 20:22:52 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Adding a brake booster
__________________________________
Exclusive Video Premiere - Britney Spears
http://launch.yahoo.com/promos/britneyspears/
From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 20:48:36 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Spin on filter question
__________________________________
Exclusive Video Premiere - Britney Spears
http://launch.yahoo.com/promos/britneyspears/
From "James Shope" <healeymanjim at JoiMail.com>
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 21:03:52 -0800
Subject: bn2 seats
From michael e gougeon <kaynmike.bham at juno.com>
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 21:45:06 -0800
Subject: 100 Engine Problems Big
From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 22:58:39 -0800
Subject: Re: Spin on filter question
The information you ask for will depend on the length of the filter. The
adaptor is 3/4 inch thick. The Pennzoil filter is 5 3/4 inches long and
leaves about 3/4 inch space between it and the stock brake booster. (The
Fram filter is only 4 7/8 inches long). There is (are?) about 6 inches
between the filter and the top of the frame. I would estimate that the
filter overlaps the frame about 2 inches from the inside of the frame and
1/2 to 3/4 inch past the weld bead.
In researching the cross references at my local auto parts store and from
word of mouth on The List, I believe any of the following are
interchangeable (listed in order of preference):
Best:
K&N HP-2009
Next best:
WIX 51516 or 51764
NAPA 1764
Fram PH 3600
Unrated and in no particular order:
Pennzoil PZ-19
Mobile MO-195
Champion PH 400
AC PF 56
Motorcraft FL 400 A
Puolator L 20195
LEE LF 400 or LF 400 S
Being true to my reputation of being frugal (spelled C-H-E-A-P), the filters
were probably on sale when I bought them.
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
----- Original Message -----
From: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 27, 2003 8:48 PM
Subject: Spin on filter question
> Hello,
> For those with spin on oil filter conversions how far
> does the filter element stick out from the side of the
> engine? Please answer relative to the weld bead on
> top of the RH frame rail. The reason I ask is my
> engine's out and I'm trying to predict clearance
> between the filter and my soon to be located brake
> booster if I use this stupid (yes) moss mounting
> bracket. I'm also assuming everyone uses the "ford
> escort" filter, right?
> Regards,
> Joe Mulqueen
> '60 BT7
From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 23:07:08 -0800 (PST)
Subject: New harmonic balancers
__________________________________
Exclusive Video Premiere - Britney Spears
http://launch.yahoo.com/promos/britneyspears/
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2003 00:19:58 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: 100 Engine Problems Big
1) are you losing oil? If your oil is dissapearing
look for the leak and trace it back to the source.
100 enginese have a few gallery plugs that can come
loose and leak oil.
2) does oil pressure come back after it cools down?
If so, you should check your rocker shaft and make
sure excessive oil is not leaking out there. If so
all your oil will pool under the valve cover and your
engine will go dry. Check your oil level when the
pressure goes to zero - is there any oil on the
dipstick?
3) Did you replace the oil pressure release valve and
spring? Is it worn out or is the hole where it sits
full of crud or occlusions? Is the pring broken? If
any of this stuff is messed up it can cause the
symptoms you are having.
4) What is your oil filter set up? Are you using an
original tecalamite filter or do you have a spin on
adaptor?
5) Did you replace your oil pump? Did you take it
apart and clean/inspect it? If the vanes have too big
of gaps in it... it won't work....
6) Did you use non detergent oil when you ran the
motor for the first time? standard oils will cause
metal bits to float in the oil and possibly wear out
your oil pump (dirty oil goes through the pump before
being filtered). Non detergent oil helps keep the
metal bits at the bottom of the pan and then will
drain out at the next oil change....
Just a few thoughts. Provide more information on your
exact symptoms (i.e. loss of oil, or strange oil level
readings) these will help us diagnose.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- michael e gougeon <kaynmike.bham@juno.com> wrote:
> Lost oil pressure last May. Fried engine. Pulled
> engine apart. Lots of
> machine work/parts. Could not find reason for
> pressure loss. Was advised
> by wise members of this list NOT to reassemble
> engine 'til source of
> problem defined. Used logic instead. Reassembled
> engine. Fired up, ran
> smoothly. 45-50 lbs.of oil. Great for an hours
> driving. Then pressure
> starts to drop. Three hours into break-in pressure
> at 15-25. Three and a
> half -nada. No apparent engine damage this time as I
> was ready for shut
> off. Shut off immediately. Towed home where it sits.
> Crow doesn't taste
> that bad, really. Any ideas??
> Mike Gougeon 55BN2 (sort of)
From "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl>
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2003 11:49:59 +0100
Subject: Fixing points
From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2003 06:08:57 EST
Subject: Sticker/transfer on radiators
Simon.
MkII BT7.
From "Greg Wilkinson" <gregwilkinson at adelphia.net>
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2003 04:54:29 -0800
Subject: RE: Fixing points
Best,
Greg
67 BJ8
> -----Original Message-----
>
> Listers,
> I have to replace the sheet metal component in which the two
> 'rear seats' are
> fitted on my BJ8. While removing the (remainders of the) old part
> I found two
> hefty nuts, welded on a rather hefty plate, located at about one inch each
> straddling the centerline of the car, between the two seat openings.
> The new part does not have holes for the bolts that apparently
> and ultimately
> will have to go in these nuts. Can anyone tell me what these nuts were/are
> for? I can only suggest that the car was used for racing in the
> past and that
> these were fixing parts for a four-point harness.
> If my description is not clear enough I can send a picture.
> TIA
> Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
> 1964 BJ8 29432
> 1974 BMW 75/6
From "Bob Johnson" <robert.w.johnson at earthlink.net>
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2003 08:01:44 -0500
Subject: Re: Adding a brake booster
I got my booster from Healey Surgeons. It came with instructions on how to
use the original brackets. Somehow involved removing the brackets, drilling
a couple of holes, reinstalling upside down (I think that's what I
remember). Fits, works fine.
Bob Johnson
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 27, 2003 11:22 PM
Subject: Adding a brake booster
> Hello,
> I asked this question a few months back. Is anyone /
> know anyone adding a brake booster and NOT using the
> moss motors brake booster bracket. I'm not speaking
> of the original style AH bracket for original style
> boosters but a bracket or concept designed for new,
> replacement Lockheed boosters.
> Thanks again,
> Joe Mulqueen
> '60 BT7
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2003 08:39:13 -0500
Subject: BJ8 interior stuff for sale
For BJ8 ( Moss ) brand new still in boxes
643-130 top cover blue
643-070 tonneau blue
641-080 top zip window blue
248-920 carpet set blue
Carroll Phillips
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2003 08:41:30 -0500
Subject: Re: 100 Engine Problems Big
----- Original Message -----
From: "michael e gougeon" <kaynmike.bham@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 28, 2003 12:45 AM
Subject: 100 Engine Problems Big
> Lost oil pressure last May. Fried engine. Pulled engine apart. Lots of
> machine work/parts. Could not find reason for pressure loss. Was advised
> by wise members of this list NOT to reassemble engine 'til source of
> problem defined. Used logic instead. Reassembled engine. Fired up, ran
> smoothly. 45-50 lbs.of oil. Great for an hours driving. Then pressure
> starts to drop. Three hours into break-in pressure at 15-25. Three and a
> half -nada. No apparent engine damage this time as I was ready for shut
> off. Shut off immediately. Towed home where it sits. Crow doesn't taste
> that bad, really. Any ideas??
> Mike Gougeon 55BN2 (sort of)
From JAnde63063 at aol.com
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2003 10:12:51 -0500
Subject: Re: New harmonic balancers
Have your balancer rebuilt. We use the following rebuilder.
Winslow MFG
5700 Dean Ave.
Raleigh, NC 27604
919-790-9713
The charge last time we had a balancer was $70.00 plus shipping and handling.
Speak to Al.
Jerry Anderson
Hendrix Wire Wheel
336-852-8909
From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2003 07:23:41 -0800
Subject: spin on oil filter comparison site
Interesting site. Fram and Penzoil are about the worst.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
From Mike Blair <blimpie at digisys.net>
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2003 08:50:07 -0700
Subject: Pertronix Wiring
Thanks
Mike
From Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2003 08:31:56 -0800 (PST)
Subject: spark plug wires for bj8
---------------------------------
Exclusive Video Premiere - Britney Spears
From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2003 08:59:29 -0800
Subject: wrong filter study
From Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2003 12:12:35 -0500
Subject: Leather and buckles
This makes me wonder what listers currently own Harleys(or other bikes) AND
Healeys.
Anyone else on the list enjoy riding?
Scot '66 BJ8
'99 Honda Shadow 1100
From "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson at thicko.com>
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2003 11:53:02 -0600
Subject: RE: New harmonic balancers
The Damper Doctor... I had 6 race engine dampers rebuilt... very satisfied.
WST
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of JAnde63063@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 28, 2003 9:13 AM
To: joe mulqueen; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: New harmonic balancers
Joe,
Have your balancer rebuilt. We use the following rebuilder.
Winslow MFG
5700 Dean Ave.
Raleigh, NC 27604
919-790-9713
The charge last time we had a balancer was $70.00 plus shipping and
handling.
Speak to Al.
Jerry Anderson
Hendrix Wire Wheel
336-852-8909
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2003 12:59:30 -0700
Subject: Re: Pertronix Wiring
Black wire to coil - or CB
Red wire to coil + or sw
Also the switched ignition supply wire on coil +
Dave Russell
BN2
Mike Blair wrote:
> I have misplaced the wiring diagram for installing my Pertronix unit in
> my 1966 BJ8 negative ground. I remove it some time ago in trying to
> diagnose a problem and am just getting around to reinstalling it. The
> unit has black and red wires. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks
> Mike
From Skip Besaw <besaw55 at yahoo.com>
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2003 12:12:47 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Healey Sighting
Skip Besaw, 1967 BJ8
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2003 12:53:21 -0800
Subject: Re: Fixing points
Just went and had a look at my '67 BJ8, which is now a painted bare chassis
(body paint will be done in a couple of days - going to have it home soon!),
and another '67 BJ8 in restoration at the same shop. Both cars have a pair
of threaded plates, approx. 2 inches square, welded to the underside of the
tonneau panel in the location that you describe, with holes in the panel
itself allowing easy access from above for the seatbelt attatching hardware.
When I stripped mine a couple of months ago, the original padded vinyl
covering surrounding the jump seats came away to reveal their existence.
The car is absolutely original, and has not needed any restoration work
until now.
There was nothing in the threaded holes, no bolts, plugs or putty. I would
assume that they were intended to be rear seat belt fastening locations for
the inboard portion of the belt. It follows that the outboard part of the
belt would likely have been located where many of us today have installed
the upper portion of the three-point belts, on the fitting welded to the
inner wheel arch that protrudes through a hole in the the rear quarter
upholstery panel.
What might have been done if an owner wanted three-point front belts as well
as rear belts is anybodys guess, possibly a piggy-backed set-up at the wheel
arch fixing point. Maybe a more knowledgeable lister could comment on this.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Wilkinson" <gregwilkinson@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jaap Aeckerlin"
<j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
Sent: Tuesday, October 28, 2003 4:54 AM
Subject: RE: Fixing points
Hi Jack,
I believe those are rear seatbelt mounts. My car has the same setup as you
describe but had the bolts installed. The bolt has an unthreaded section
about 10-13mm long under a wide, slightly domed hex head that sits above the
upholstery. Oddly, I find no evidence of any mounts near either of the wheel
arches. (other than the 3 point mount for the front seat). My original bill
of sale notes seat belts were an option, the bracket was probably welded on
at the factory for easy installation at a dealership.
Best,
Greg
67 BJ8
> -----Original Message-----
>
> Listers,
> I have to replace the sheet metal component in which the two
> 'rear seats' are
> fitted on my BJ8. While removing the (remainders of the) old part
> I found two
> hefty nuts, welded on a rather hefty plate, located at about one inch each
> straddling the centerline of the car, between the two seat openings.
> The new part does not have holes for the bolts that apparently
> and ultimately
> will have to go in these nuts. Can anyone tell me what these nuts were/are
> for? I can only suggest that the car was used for racing in the
> past and that
> these were fixing parts for a four-point harness.
> If my description is not clear enough I can send a picture.
> TIA
> Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
> 1964 BJ8 29432
> 1974 BMW 75/6
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2003 16:18:36 EST
Subject: Re: 100 Engine Problems Big
> Sounds like a fractured pipe in the sump. That's the "S" shaped one. Not
> uncommon to install but not notice the crack right at the fitting.
I was out for a casual drive one day last year and happened to have my eye on
the guage when my OP tanked. On the advice of Bruce Phillips from Healey
Surgeons I dropped the pan and checked the copper pipe which leads from the oil
pump to the block. The flare at the block had cracked off and only the tension
of the flare nut at the pump was holding the pipe against the block,
resulting in drastically reduced pressure and flow. I installed a modern
replacement
from Healey Spares (I think DW makes one as well) and installed it in about 30
minutes. Original pipes are bad accidents waiting to happen.
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2003 16:39:59 -0700
Subject: Harmonic balancers 2
With the long stroke 4.375" four what are the main torisonal vibration
rpm points. What rpm does the problem of flywheel bolt shearing start to
occur?
Is there a point between 5000 & 6000 rpm where serious crankshaft
reliability comes into question?
What other considerations are there about lower end durability of the
100-4? I know that it has a rather flex prone crank with only three mains.
Thanks for any insight.
Dave Russell
BN2
From "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK at peoplepc.com>
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2003 19:07:06 -0500
Subject: Re: bn2 seats
When the sliding adjustable rails started at BN1 B1001 they were mounted on
5/16 wood strips and thin metal strips. The passenger seat had the wooden
spacer thickness increased to make the seats the same height. The Moss
wooden packing piece 856-370 is for use under the slides. My 56 BN2 had
drivers side slides with the wooden pieces and remains of the metal strips.
I have fitted slides to the passenger seat as well and mounted both sides on
the Moss spacers. If you don't use the spacers to raise the seats, the seat
adjustment lever will jam up on the front carpet.
regards,
Peter Davis
----- Original Message -----
From: James Shope <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 28, 2003 12:03 AM
Subject: bn2 seats
> need some help from bn2 folks. are the seats in bn2 bolted directly to
floor
> or are there adjusters for them. moss catalog says only for bn1, but this
bn2
> i am working on has seats bolted directly to floor with no wood spacers
like a
> bj8. any help appreciated muchly. healeymanjiim
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2003 18:24:14 -0600
Subject: Re: bn2 seats
Best regards,
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2003 16:59:59 -0800
Subject: Re: spark plug wires for bj8
Moss sells a kit with the end caps, wire number rings, the O-rings to
"tie" 1&2 and 5&6 wires and factory instructions on the exact length
of (copper core) wire for each plug. It's less than buying the parts
individually (part# 021-750).
Just cut the wires to length, apply the number rings and screw the endcaps
onto the wire. The wires are screwed into the distributor cap (remember
the O-rings on 1&2 and 5&6 wires first ;)
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jorge Garcia" <fortee9er@yahoo.com>
To: "Austin Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 28, 2003 8:31 AM
Subject: spark plug wires for bj8
> I am going to replace the spark plug wires, the dist cap and rotor on my bj8
>to see if I get rid of what appears to be
an ignition miss as revs go up. There was a discussion on the list recently
about ignition/spark plug wires and the
merits of the copper core wires vs the suppresion type. I want to get a solid
or stranded type core type wire as my bj8
doesn't have a radio. Is there a prefered brand of wire to use for this
application? Are the Lucas yellow/black wires
the choice? What about Magnecores or some generic brand?
> Also I noticed in the Moss catalog that if you order this type of wire all
>you are geeting is a lenght of uncut wire
and that you have to buy all the ends to make it usable. How difficult is it to
make your own wires and do I need any
special tools? I am not totally handicapped mechanicaly it is just I have
never had to make my own ignition wires.
> Thanks
> Jorge bj8
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2003 19:01:58 -0600
Subject: Re: Leather and buckles
From "Bruce Steele" <bsteele2 at pacbell.net>
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2003 17:20:50 -0800
Subject: List privacy policy
Bruce Steele
1960 BN7
bsteele2@pacbell.net
From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2003 19:19:15 -0600
Subject: Noise of a fan Hitting Paper
Right as a let off the gas when I wring it out (thats about 4,000 rpm on my
tired long stroke 4 banger) it will often make an odd noise for a couple of
seconds, sounds sort of like paper hitting a fan, or being sucked into a
fan. Noise is definitely engine RPM related not vehicle speed.
I had a similar problem a year or two ago, but was more of a metallic sound
and turned out to be the timing chain tensioner or lack thereof. This sound
is different, as described above.
Battery, new this year, is not staying charged, my guess is something funky
going on in the generator. Any other guesses of where to start before I
"dig in"
And no I don't have a Texas Cooler, lets not go there, I have the optional
six blade "tropical climate" fan, and all clearances around the fan and
radiator appear to be fine.
TIA
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2003 19:47:17 -0600
Subject: Re: Spin on filter question
I have excellent oil pressure and i'm only running 10W30 for the break in,
so what I did appears to be working.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
Sent: Monday, October 27, 2003 10:48 PM
Subject: Spin on filter question
> Hello,
> For those with spin on oil filter conversions how far
> does the filter element stick out from the side of the
> engine? Please answer relative to the weld bead on
> top of the RH frame rail. The reason I ask is my
> engine's out and I'm trying to predict clearance
> between the filter and my soon to be located brake
> booster if I use this stupid (yes) moss mounting
> bracket. I'm also assuming everyone uses the "ford
> escort" filter, right?
> Regards,
> Joe Mulqueen
> '60 BT7
From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2003 19:49:46 -0600
Subject: Re: Leather and buckles
Cheers,
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scot Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Charlie Baldwin" <ewsinc@suscom.net>; "healey list"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 28, 2003 11:12 AM
Subject: Leather and buckles
> Message text written by Charlie Baldwin
> >Check out your local Harley dealership. Anything chrome and small,
> >think HD dealership. >><
>
> This makes me wonder what listers currently own Harleys(or other bikes)
AND
> Healeys.
> Anyone else on the list enjoy riding?
>
>
> Scot '66 BJ8
> '99 Honda Shadow 1100
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2003 17:48:40 -0800
Subject: Re: spark plug wires for bj8
If you are using an original style side-entry cap, solid core wire will work
better - ie: last longer. The screws that pierce the wire will cause damage
to a suppression type carbon core wire - it'll work, but wears out faster.
I have been using Accel brand sets - their #3009 set on the BJ8 (90 degree
angled boots), and their #3008 set (straight boots) on the BT7. The 7mm
wire is yellow, the already installed spark plug boots a sort of red colour.
Both wire and boots are silicone rubber, the core is solid copper. Both
sets are 8 cyl universal sets - a couple of extra wires for a Healey -
simple to install, just cut 'em to length, fix up a coil wire, and off you
go.
Any auto parts store should be able to source them or something similar from
another maker for you, if the wire colour matters, or they will supply you
with what you need to make your own from the yellow / black stripe
'bumblebee' wire from M***.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jorge Garcia" <fortee9er@yahoo.com>
To: "Austin Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 28, 2003 8:31 AM
Subject: spark plug wires for bj8
I am going to replace the spark plug wires, the dist cap and rotor on my bj8
to see if I get rid of what appears to be an ignition miss as revs go up.
There was a discussion on the list recently about ignition/spark plug wires
and the merits of the copper core wires vs the suppresion type. I want to
get a solid or stranded type core type wire as my bj8 doesn't have a radio.
Is there a prefered brand of wire to use for this application? Are the Lucas
yellow/black wires the choice? What about Magnecores or some generic brand?
Also I noticed in the Moss catalog that if you order this type of wire all
you are geeting is a lenght of uncut wire and that you have to buy all the
ends to make it usable. How difficult is it to make your own wires and do I
need any special tools? I am not totally handicapped mechanicaly it is just
I have never had to make my own ignition wires.
Thanks
Jorge bj8
From GSFuqua1 at aol.com
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2003 20:57:27 EST
Subject: Re: Leather and buckles
Been riding for a looooonnnnnggggg time!!
Gary Fuqua
Branson, MO
From "Tim Davis" <tld6008 at mchsi.com>
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2003 20:33:25 -0600
Subject: Re: Propshaft to O/D line up and sidessecreens
> I always leave mine in the garage.
> Norm Cay, 53 BN1
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, October 22, 2003 5:53 AM
> Subject: Propshaft to O/D line up and sidessecreens
>
>
> >>
> > How do you all stop your sidescreens from rattling against each other?
> >
> > Simon.
From "Tim Davis" <tld6008 at mchsi.com>
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2003 21:05:29 -0600
Subject: Re: Top Installation Video for BJ8
Tim Davis BN7
----- Original Message -----
From: "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 27, 2003 3:25 AM
Subject: Re: Top Installation Video for BJ8
> Hello, Rob -
>
> I have the Moss videos, and would be glad to send them to you. I do not
> recall that they include installing a top, but I installed my top myself
and
> can give you some instructions on how to do it if the videos don't.
>
> I'm leaving on a business trip in about two minutes, so will not be able
to
> follow up on this until after I return on Thursday.
>
> Cheers!
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC
>
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: bj8healey@juno.com
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Sent: Sunday, October 26, 2003 10:27 PM
> Subject: Top Installation Video for BJ8
>
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> Somewhere there exists a two tape set of installation instructions for
> BJ7s, and BJ8s which covers carpets, upholstery, trunk lining and most
> importantly to me the Convertible Top. I have on back order from M**s
> Motors such a set. Unfortunately, they have not had this item in stock
> for many months and do not expect it to come in for several months. Due
> to circumstances I am now in, I just can not go two or more months with
> no top. The prior top is in shreds and has not been attached to the car
> for over twelve years during storage/body off restoration (except for
the
> top)/more storage. I have had my car back since 2001 and used it only on
> short hops on dry days here in southwest Florida. The reasons why I am
> just now getting to putting on a top is a long boring story I will not
> inflict upon you.
>
> My questions are as follows:
> 1. Does anyone know of an alternate source from which I can purchase
this
> tape set?
> 2. Does anyone have this tape set that would sell, rent, loan or give to
> me?
> 3. Does anyone have ANY installation video for a BJ8 top?
> 4. Does anyone have even a set of written instructions for installing a
> BJ8 top?
>
> M**s Motors says go to a professional installer. I imagine that would be
> a good solution, but now that I am again physically able to work on my
> car, I am determined to do it myself. I have owned this car for 34 years
> and just want to have the satisfaction of doing this myself. I know you
> folks understand that feeling.
>
> If anyone can help, please contact me off list. bj8healey@juno.com
>
> Thank you all for allowing my e-mail to come into your homes.
>
> Topless in Florida,
> Rob Fromm
> '66 BJ8
From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 22:06:44 -0500
Subject: RE:
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Richard J. Hockert, Esq.
Sent: Tuesday, October 28, 2003 7:24 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject:
I am looking for a set of front hubs for my BJ8 for conversion to disc
wheels. Anybody with an extra set gathering dust? Please contact off
list. Thanks
Best regards,
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2003 21:46:44 -0600
Subject: gearbox problem solved,...ALSO PARTS STILL NEEDED!!!
orient these two plungers with the two very slight recesses in the mainshaft.
I did this and put it all back together and slapped the gearbox cover on and
was able to shift into all of the gears except reverse. I was able to get the
reverse gear engaged fine with the top of the box off. Thus, the reverse
problem is only a problem with the shifter adjustment.
PARTS NEEDED: I need a BJ-7 or BJ-8 shifter rod. It does not have to have good
chrome,...I couldn't care less. As long as it fits and works. ALSO,...I need
an overdrive adapter plate which interfaces between the overdrive and a
sidshift BT-7 gearbox. Thanks a lot!
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
63 BJ-7
Sturgeon a WI.
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2003 21:04:06 -0700
Subject: Re: Leather and buckles
Dave Russell
BN2
Scot Paulson wrote:
> Message text written by Charlie Baldwin
>
>>Check out your local Harley dealership. Anything chrome and small,
>>think HD dealership. >><
>
>
> This makes me wonder what listers currently own Harleys(or other bikes) AND
> Healeys.
> Anyone else on the list enjoy riding?
>
>
> Scot '66 BJ8
> '99 Honda Shadow 1100
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2003 21:25:40 -0700
Subject: Re: Harmonic balancers 2
My engine has a strong vibration around 3000 rpm. Strong enough to stir
the gas in the carbs enough to make a gas smell. I just avoid this rpm
by running a little under, a little over, or accelerate through it.
I think that Mike Salter once told me that most, if not all, Hundred
Fours do this. What I am really concerned with is why the engine was
factory redlined at 4800 when it will easily pull to 6000 in LeMans tune.
I read once, somewhere, that Donald healey instructed his drivers to
stay below 4800 on the long endurance runs. I'm trying to find out why,
& what can be done to make the situation better. I'm wondering if adding
a real balancer or changing flywheel weight would be of any benefit to
torisonal vibration.
As you may know, fours can never be really balanced, only the vibration
points moved up or down the rpm scale. I am more concerned with the
torisonal crank vibrations breaking something.
Dave Russell
BN2
Tom O'Brien wrote:
> Dave, I also have a 100/4 that has a vibration point, about 2500-3000 rpm,
> that I believe is the result of poorly balanced engine components. It kills
> me because the engine runs strong, doesn't use oil, and doesn't leak but a
> drop or two here and there. If you get answers to your question "off list"
> could you bundle them up and send me a copy. Thanks for your kind
> assistance. Tom O'Brien
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2003 20:27:52 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Noise of a fan Hitting Paper
You could have a impact created crack in your muffler,
a broken muffler baffle or a hidden split in the
exhaust flex hose. This can cause this type of noise.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Greg Lemon <glemon@neb.rr.com> wrote:
> List, after of few months of trouble free healeying
> I have a new and odd
> problem with the car.
>
> Right as a let off the gas when I wring it out
> (thats about 4,000 rpm on my
> tired long stroke 4 banger) it will often make an
> odd noise for a couple of
> seconds, sounds sort of like paper hitting a fan, or
> being sucked into a
> fan. Noise is definitely engine RPM related not
> vehicle speed.
>
> I had a similar problem a year or two ago, but was
> more of a metallic sound
> and turned out to be the timing chain tensioner or
> lack thereof. This sound
> is different, as described above.
>
> Battery, new this year, is not staying charged, my
> guess is something funky
> going on in the generator. Any other guesses of
> where to start before I
> "dig in"
>
> And no I don't have a Texas Cooler, lets not go
> there, I have the optional
> six blade "tropical climate" fan, and all clearances
> around the fan and
> radiator appear to be fine.
>
> TIA
>
> Greg Lemon
> 54 BN1
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2003 23:29:56 -0500
Subject: Re: Fuel Gauge Q
Keith
>do the various Smiths gauges all
> work the same ? >
> Thanks,
> Mike L.
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2003 23:27:49 -0500
Subject: Re: Roller buckles - Harleys?
Keith Pennell
> Actually, leather dog collars would fit the bill exactly as a spare tire
> holder.
>
> Jon Einhorn
> BJ8
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2003 21:31:23 -0700
Subject: Re: Noise of a fan Hitting Paper
Not sure. If it is strictly rpm related, you should be able to run it up
in neutral & do some listening/feeling under the hood & around the
sheetmetal to get a better idea.
Dave Russell
BN2
Greg Lemon wrote:
> List, after of few months of trouble free healeying I have a new and odd
> problem with the car.
>
> Right as a let off the gas when I wring it out (thats about 4,000 rpm on my
> tired long stroke 4 banger) it will often make an odd noise for a couple of
> seconds, sounds sort of like paper hitting a fan, or being sucked into a
> fan. Noise is definitely engine RPM related not vehicle speed.
>
> TIA
>
> Greg Lemon
> 54 BN1
From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2003 22:11:26 -0700
Subject: Re: Help! Problem rebuilding BJ-8 gearbox
First I'm looking at the exploded illustration of the top shifter as shown on
page
170 of the Bentley manual and I see four pieces denoted as a "plungers" only two
of which appear to be able to influence motion of the shifter rods. the first is
evidently located toward the forward end of the box (possibly under the top
cover)
and would look to be about 3/4" long with one end rounded and the other undercut
for a spring. The other is evidently located toward the rear of the box under a
plug in the top cover with a tensioning spring. This plunger looks very short
1/2"
or less. The other plungers are for the reverse selector (tension to push the
shift lever out of reverse engagement) and a very small one to retain the third
speed gear on the mainshaft.
There are no "plungers" shown in the synchronizer sliders. They use only spring
loaded spherical balls. If you have a synchro mechanism that uses plungers in
place of balls I think it is the wrong part. I may be wrong, but I believe that
the synchronizers on all of the C series boxes are interchangeable.
With the top off the box see if you can move the synchronizer hub into mesh with
the 2nd and 3rd/4th gears (be careful not to slide the hub too far or the balls
may pop out of the synchronizer. If the hubs slide by hand and engage the gears
the problem is in the shift rods.
The detent balls for the shift rods are designed so that only one rod may be out
of the neutral position at a time. If the 1st/2nd rod is shifted forward or back
or if the rod is misaligned the detent balls will prevent either of the other
two
rods from moving. Make sure to place all three rods in the position that leaves
the gears in neutral and only move one at a time. Make sure that the lock screws
are properly engaged in the holes in the shifter rods and that when the box is
in
neutral the slots in the shift forks line up.
There is a short interlock pin which is a sliding fit in the middle (1st/2nd)
shifter shaft and is used to force a detent ball to lock the opposite shift rod
when one of the outer shift rods is moved out of neutral. If that pin is too
long
it may not allow the detent balls to return.
I hope something here helps you with your problem.
Good luck.
Bill Lawrence
dicksonr@uwm.edu wrote:
> I need some help or information while rebuilding this BJ-8 gearbox. My friend
> Karl and I rebuilt a side shift box out of his BT-7 this weekend with little
> problem. However, with my BJ-8 gearbox we were not so lucky. I can't get the
> BJ-8 box to shift properly.
> I can get it into 1st and 2nd fine. But it will not go into 3rd and 4th. The
> 3rd and 4th shift rod moves some but not enough. When I look at the diagram
>in
> the Moss catelog it shows a little plunger and indicates that there are two
> needed. Well in my parts pile (from many gearboxes) I have three plungers.
>
> Two are about 3/4 of an inch long and are well rounded on the ends. The third
> plunger is 1/2 inch long and well rounded on the ends. Now, the slider hub
> assembly for 3rd and 4th gears has a provision for these two plungers. It the
> last attempt I put the two longer (3/4 inch) plungers in two holes of the
> slider hub. Perhaps it is these plungers that are preventing the hub from
> sliding. Maybe one is sticking,..there was a little resistance present when I
> put one of them in. Also, I have a couple of extra 3rd/4th gear slider hubs
>but
>
> they are for earlier gearboxes and do not have the two plunger holes nor does
> the collar extend toward the front of the gearbox as far. If these would be
> interchangleable I would switch. Does anybody out there know if these can be
> switched into a BJ-8 box? Which size is the correct size for the plunger?
> What could be contributing to the slider hub not sliding. I have had the box
> apart many times over trying to remedy this situation. I can have it all
>apart
>
> in about 30 minutes now and all together in less than an hour,...that is if I
> get the laygear in place easily. Advice is greatly, greatly, greatly
> appreciated here. Thanks!!!!!
>
> Randy Dickson
> Healey Archaeologist
> 63 BJ-7
> Sturgeon Bay, WI.
From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2003 22:21:22 -0700
Subject: Re: 100 Engine Problems Big
Not my proudest moment.
Bill Lawrence
Blue One Hundred wrote:
> Micheal -
>
> 1) are you losing oil? If your oil is dissapearing
> look for the leak and trace it back to the source.
> 100 enginese have a few gallery plugs that can come
> loose and leak oil.
>
> 2) does oil pressure come back after it cools down?
> If so, you should check your rocker shaft and make
> sure excessive oil is not leaking out there. If so
> all your oil will pool under the valve cover and your
> engine will go dry. Check your oil level when the
> pressure goes to zero - is there any oil on the
> dipstick?
>
> 3) Did you replace the oil pressure release valve and
> spring? Is it worn out or is the hole where it sits
> full of crud or occlusions? Is the pring broken? If
> any of this stuff is messed up it can cause the
> symptoms you are having.
>
> 4) What is your oil filter set up? Are you using an
> original tecalamite filter or do you have a spin on
> adaptor?
>
> 5) Did you replace your oil pump? Did you take it
> apart and clean/inspect it? If the vanes have too big
> of gaps in it... it won't work....
>
> 6) Did you use non detergent oil when you ran the
> motor for the first time? standard oils will cause
> metal bits to float in the oil and possibly wear out
> your oil pump (dirty oil goes through the pump before
> being filtered). Non detergent oil helps keep the
> metal bits at the bottom of the pan and then will
> drain out at the next oil change....
>
> Just a few thoughts. Provide more information on your
> exact symptoms (i.e. loss of oil, or strange oil level
> readings) these will help us diagnose.
>
> Regards,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
> --- michael e gougeon <kaynmike.bham@juno.com> wrote:
> > Lost oil pressure last May. Fried engine. Pulled
> > engine apart. Lots of
> > machine work/parts. Could not find reason for
> > pressure loss. Was advised
> > by wise members of this list NOT to reassemble
> > engine 'til source of
> > problem defined. Used logic instead. Reassembled
> > engine. Fired up, ran
> > smoothly. 45-50 lbs.of oil. Great for an hours
> > driving. Then pressure
> > starts to drop. Three hours into break-in pressure
> > at 15-25. Three and a
> > half -nada. No apparent engine damage this time as I
> > was ready for shut
> > off. Shut off immediately. Towed home where it sits.
> > Crow doesn't taste
> > that bad, really. Any ideas??
> > Mike Gougeon 55BN2 (sort of)
From michael e gougeon <kaynmike.bham at juno.com>
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2003 22:29:04 -0800
Subject: 100 Engine Problems Big
From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 04:04:40 EST
Subject: Fwd: Sticker/transfer on radiators
> I was buying some bits from one of our suppliers the other day and I,
> finally, remembered to ask for the "Tudor" sticker for my water bottle. I
>wasn't
> particularly surprised to receive a red sticker for a radiator. (Both contain
> water?) This thing reads:-
> Cooling System
> Do not top up with plain water
> Winter:- use etcet
> Summer:- use etcetc"
> So, was there such a sticker on our cars, ever?
> I don't see it in any of the books, including Gary and Rogers.
>
> Simon.
> MkII BT7.
Does anyone know this one?
Simon
Return-path: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>
From: Simonlachlan@aol.com
Full-name: Simonlachlan
Message-ID: <34.4100fb5c.2ccfa849@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2003 06:08:57 EST
Subject: Sticker/transfer on radiators
To: healeys@autox.team.net
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
X-Mailer: 8.0 for Windows sub 670
X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: from multipart/alternative by demime 0.99d.1
X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: Alternative section used was text/plain
I was buying some bits from one of our suppliers the other day and I,
finally, remembered to ask for the "Tudor" sticker for my water bottle. I
wasn't
particularly surprised to receive a red sticker for a radiator. (Both contain
water?) This thing reads:-
Cooling System
Do not top up with plain water
Winter:- use etcet
Summer:- use etcetc"
So, was there such a sticker on our cars, ever?
I don't see it in any of the books, including Gary and Rogers.
Simon.
MkII BT7.
From Teddybear <teddyb3 at verizon.net>
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 05:27:47 -0500
Subject: test
From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 07:59:04 -0400
Subject: Re: List privacy policy
Regardless of the list's policy, the moment anyone answers one of your posts,
your email address is likely to be in that person's address book, and if that
person's computer catches a virus or worm, there you go. For that matter,
the simple act of posting exposes your address to everyone on the list.
Better that you should:
1) Use a unique email address for the list, and
2) if spam is a problem, use a good spam filter.
Best regards,
--
John Miller
whatever@n4vu.com, depending
He is the best of men who dislikes power.
-Mohammed
From Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 04:25:20 -0800
Subject: Re:
I recommend new ones for fresh splines.
Tracy
Richard J. Hockert, Esq. wrote:
>I am looking for a set of front hubs for my BJ8 for conversion to disc
>wheels. Anybody with an extra set gathering dust? Please contact off
>list. Thanks
>
>
>
>Best regards,
>Jim Hockert
>BJ8 Rallye
>Dallas, TX
>
>***
From Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 04:29:31 -0800
Subject: Re: List privacy policy
If I was on Viagra the last thing I would want to do is read 8000
emails. Good luck.
Tracy
Bruce Steele wrote:
>Sorry to bomb the list with this question, but I was unable to find an
>answer in the list website(s). What is the list's privacy policy? I
>emailed the list administrator, but didn't get a response. I will soon be
>changing ISPs, and the last thing I want is 8,000 emails a day on Viagra!
>
>Bruce Steele
>1960 BN7
>bsteele2@pacbell.net
From SERVICAR1 at cs.com
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 07:26:46 EST
Subject: Re: Leather and buckles
From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 07:36:38 -0500
Subject: RE: Noise of a fan Hitting Paper
I was hearing something similiar in my BJ8 and traced it to the generator.
The generator is now at the shop to be bebuilt. hope the problem is solved.
> [Original Message]
> From: Greg Lemon <glemon@neb.rr.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 10/28/03 8:27:10 PM
> Subject: Noise of a fan Hitting Paper
>
> List, after of few months of trouble free healeying I have a new and odd
> problem with the car.
>
> Right as a let off the gas when I wring it out (thats about 4,000 rpm on
my
> tired long stroke 4 banger) it will often make an odd noise for a couple
of
> seconds, sounds sort of like paper hitting a fan, or being sucked into a
> fan. Noise is definitely engine RPM related not vehicle speed.
>
> I had a similar problem a year or two ago, but was more of a metallic
sound
> and turned out to be the timing chain tensioner or lack thereof. This
sound
> is different, as described above.
>
> Battery, new this year, is not staying charged, my guess is something
funky
> going on in the generator. Any other guesses of where to start before I
> "dig in"
>
> And no I don't have a Texas Cooler, lets not go there, I have the optional
> six blade "tropical climate" fan, and all clearances around the fan and
> radiator appear to be fine.
>
> TIA
>
> Greg Lemon
> 54 BN1
From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 07:47:35 -0600
Subject: Best way to pay individuals in the UK
Thanks
Patton
-------------------------------------
Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
Austin-Healey BN4
For Sale - 1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert
From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 09:52:22 EST
Subject: Re: Best way to pay individuals in the UK
Also, you can instantaneously wire funds via Western Union if your seller
will agree. Western Union can be a bit pricey, depending on amount of
transaction.
PayPal is the best for the buyer. There is a small (3% ?) fee for the
seller.
Steve
In a message dated 10/29/2003 5:49:42 AM Pacific Standard Time,
kpdii@earthlink.net writes:
> I am trying to buys some parts from an individual in the UK and he wants
> payment by Pounds Sterling cash or international money order. Since I don't
> want to send cash, any suggestions where the best place to get a MO drawn up
> in Pounds Sterling?
>
> Thanks
> Patton
From "" <dsarah6 at excite.com>
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 09:53:10 -0500 (EST)
Subject: BT7 parts manual & steering box
_______________________________________________
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 07:12:32 -0800
Subject: RE: BJ8 disc wheels
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 10:24:46 -0500
Subject: Re: Spin on filter question
I may have responded to you on this before. I use the angled piece you
mention but that is all. It is the Purolator piece, not the Tecalmite.
Found a spin on which will seal to the angled piece and had to do a bit of
filing and grinding and tap a new hole in the center of the piece. Made a
1/2 inch spacer for clearance from the block. Spin on hangs about vertical
beside the block. Easy and not too messy filter changes.
Keith Pennell
> Joe,
> I don't know if anyone else is doing this or not...it seems not. Why not
> use the 90 degree angle fitting that was on the original filter assembly?
> Maybe your year doesn't have this, but on my BJ8 I used it when I did the
> spin on filter conversion. My filter sits exactly like the original and
> points towards the rear. Plenty of space for a larger filter.
>
> I have excellent oil pressure and i'm only running 10W30 for the break in,
> so what I did appears to be working.
>
> Cheers,
> Chris
> BJ8
From m.brouillette at comcast.net
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 15:41:37 +0000
Subject: RE: BJ8 disc wheels
If you do end up doing the adapter route, I have a set of Chevy rim
adapters that came off a BT7 that would work for your needs.
Mike Brouillette
59 BT7
> Richard,
> If you don't find any hubs, you can cut the splines off your existing hubs
> (or get some with worn out splines) and bolt on some adapters. This only
> works with BJ8's because of the through bolts for the brake discs.
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 08:23:08 -0800
Subject: Re: Leather and buckles
I promised my kids that I'd get a slower motorcycle when I turned 60 awhile
back - haven't gotten around to it yet. The bike mostly sits in the garage
watching me curse at the Healeys.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scot Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Charlie Baldwin" <ewsinc@suscom.net>; "healey list"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 28, 2003 9:12 AM
Subject: Leather and buckles
Message text written by Charlie Baldwin
>Check out your local Harley dealership. Anything chrome and small,
>think HD dealership. >><
This makes me wonder what listers currently own Harleys(or other bikes) AND
Healeys.
Anyone else on the list enjoy riding?
Scot '66 BJ8
'99 Honda Shadow 1100
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 08:33:28 -0800
Subject: Re: gearbox problem solved,...ALSO PARTS STILL NEEDED!!!
Glad you got the problem solved - it's not rocket science, just very time
consuming.
One point: If the part needed is the gearshift lever (I'm assuming this by
your reference to chrome), the early top-shift box (BT-BN7, BJ7) uses a
different part than the BJ8. The difference is in the ball end - they use
different bushings where they locate into the shift linkage - the ball end
is a diferent size.
The entire gearbox top assembly is interchageable - I've often seen them
intermixed. If you're not sure, best read the casting number on the cover
and check which top you actually have.
Sorry, don't have a side-shift adapter plate, will check around.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 28, 2003 7:46 PM
Subject: gearbox problem solved,...ALSO PARTS STILL NEEDED!!!
I solved the BJ-8 gearbox problem and can now get into 3rd and 4th. The
problem was that I did not have the 3rd/4th gear slider hub on the mainshaft
correctly. It can go on in one of six positions. There are two plungers,
one
at 4:00 oclock and one at 8:00 oclock. The hub must be positioned correctly
to
orient these two plungers with the two very slight recesses in the
mainshaft.
I did this and put it all back together and slapped the gearbox cover on and
was able to shift into all of the gears except reverse. I was able to get
the
reverse gear engaged fine with the top of the box off. Thus, the reverse
problem is only a problem with the shifter adjustment.
PARTS NEEDED: I need a BJ-7 or BJ-8 shifter rod. It does not have to have
good
chrome,...I couldn't care less. As long as it fits and works. ALSO,...I
need
an overdrive adapter plate which interfaces between the overdrive and a
sidshift BT-7 gearbox. Thanks a lot!
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
63 BJ-7
Sturgeon a WI.
From Jon McLeroy <jfm at spyderinternet.com>
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 10:40:02 -0600
Subject: Re: Best way to pay individuals in the UK
When I pay for my shipments of Penrite Oil products I use an outfit in
Providence, RI called Commonwealth Foreign Exchange. They charge less than
50% of what my bank wants to do the same transaction (wire transfer). They
also will give a better exchange rate than a bank.
Call or contact David C. Horman at 401-274-9009 or 800-239-2389, email
davidh@comfex.com.
Just a satisfied customer.
Let me know if I can help further.
Jon
Classic Auto Lubes
12803 CR 1222
Tyler, Tx. 75709
Ph: 903-561-4858
Fax: 903-561-7177
Email: jfm@spyderinternet.com
www.classicautolubes.com
At 07:47 AM 10/29/03 -0600, you wrote:
>I am trying to buys some parts from an individual in the UK and he wants
>payment by Pounds Sterling cash or international money order. Since I don't
>want to send cash, any suggestions where the best place to get a MO drawn up
>in Pounds Sterling?
>
>Thanks
>Patton
>
>-------------------------------------
>Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
>Austin-Healey BN4
>
>For Sale - 1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert
--
This message has been scanned for viruses and
dangerous content by our MailScanner, and is
believed to be clean.
From Bobsoniaharris at aol.com
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 11:53:23 EST
Subject: Motorcycles and Healeys
From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 11:01:55 -0600
Subject: RE: BJ8 disc wheels
-----Original Message-----
From: m.brouillette@comcast.net [mailto:m.brouillette@comcast.net]
Sent: Wednesday, October 29, 2003 9:42 AM
To: 'Richard J. Hockert, Esq.'
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: BJ8 disc wheels
Richard,
If you do end up doing the adapter route, I have a set of
Chevy rim adapters that came off a BT7 that would work for your needs.
Mike Brouillette
59 BT7
> Richard,
> If you don't find any hubs, you can cut the splines off your existing
hubs
> (or get some with worn out splines) and bolt on some adapters. This
only
> works with BJ8's because of the through bolts for the brake discs.
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 09:17:28 -0800
Subject: Re: Spin on filter question
That is exactly what I did, thinking that was how it was supposed to be
done. I've had the spin-on on the engine for about 100,000 miles - no
problems that I know of. I use a filter from a Nissan (I think) commonly
available at NAPA, etc. that occupies exactly the same space as the original
filter assembly. I can furnish the number if anyone has the need.
I did this sometime in the mid-80's when there was a period where no-one
could find original filter elements for a few months and I was travelling a
lot that summer. After that, I simply left it on. The car is being
restored at this moment, and the engine will be dismantled in the next
couple of weeks.
I will share with the list any pertinent findings with regard to long-term
use of this filter, and also 120,000 miles on unleaded fuel after it's first
rebuild, with no additional additives. When I took the car off the road, it
was running just fine, other than being a bit 'tired' from the mileage. In
fact, it was driven to Rendezvous '03 in Eureka this summer.
If I had bothered to paint everything green, it would be hard to tell that a
change had been made, and that will be done when the engine is re-installed.
The only down side that I can see is the need to paint the filter each time.
Tough hobby, these Healeys!
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Masucci" <sooch@houston.rr.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 28, 2003 5:47 PM
Subject: Re: Spin on filter question
Joe,
I don't know if anyone else is doing this or not...it seems not. Why not
use the 90 degree angle fitting that was on the original filter assembly?
Maybe your year doesn't have this, but on my BJ8 I used it when I did the
spin on filter conversion. My filter sits exactly like the original and
points towards the rear. Plenty of space for a larger filter.
I have excellent oil pressure and i'm only running 10W30 for the break in,
so what I did appears to be working.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
Sent: Monday, October 27, 2003 10:48 PM
Subject: Spin on filter question
> Hello,
> For those with spin on oil filter conversions how far
> does the filter element stick out from the side of the
> engine? Please answer relative to the weld bead on
> top of the RH frame rail. The reason I ask is my
> engine's out and I'm trying to predict clearance
> between the filter and my soon to be located brake
> booster if I use this stupid (yes) moss mounting
> bracket. I'm also assuming everyone uses the "ford
> escort" filter, right?
> Regards,
> Joe Mulqueen
> '60 BT7
From "M Lempert" <mlempert at bellsouth.net>
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 12:47:31 -0500
Subject: Re: Fuel Gauge Q (and stuff for sale (3.54))
I'm going to try an experiment and will report back to the list - even if it
(I) fails misserably. I've purchased a used gauge from an MG of the same
size and configuration as the Healey. I'll do a bench test first to ensure
it works, then test it with the Healey sending unit. If all works okay
I'll then attempt to switch the internals with my non-functioning Healey
gauge, while preserving the original faceplate. If this works it should
give me a functioning gauge at the fraction of the cost of a rebuild. Maybe
I'll also be able to isolate and resolve the fluctuation problem.
Now that I have your attention, I have a steering wheel on ebay with no
reserve. Those interested may view it at:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&category=33704
&item=2439734477
I also have a new, unused 14" Moto Lita steering wheel that I won't be
needing. I had planned to use it for my BN7 marathon renovation, but will
now be using something else. It comes complete with the outer retaining
ring. I think Moss charges $240 (insane) for this wheel. I'd like to get
$165 - or reasonable offer - before placing on ebay.
On another subject, people have been asking the status of my second 3.54
gear order. I've avoided advertising this in the past because of list
sensitivities. However, numerous folks have encouraged me to post. My
appologies to those that might disagree.
I attempted to put in my order last month but faile to negotiate a lower
deposit. Although I don't have my target number of 100 sold, I thought I
would take a chance and commit early if I could get away with a lesser down
payment. Apparently the gear folks cover themselves very well - probably
due to past experiences - and won't budge on the deposit. I'm within 10
sets of collecting enough deposits to go ahead. The good news is that the
factory lead time is down to five months. We'll be reving lower by summer
if I can get the order in soon.
Regards,
Mike Lempert
From Jon McLeroy <jfm at spyderinternet.com>
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 12:21:23 -0600
Subject: Re: BT7 parts manual & steering box
I have Penrite Steering Lube available in 500ml bottles for $8.50 plus
shipping. It is formulated to NOT seek avenues of escape. If you would
like my brochure packet please let me have your mailing address and I'll
get one in the mail.
Also you might try British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 for the BT7 parts
manual.
Let me know if I can help.
Jon
Classic Auto Lubes
12803 CR 1222
Tyler, Tx 75709
Ph: 903-561-4858
Fax: 903-561-7177
Email: jfm@spyderinternet.com
www.classicautolubes.com
At 09:53 AM 10/29/03 -0500, you wrote:
> Does anyone have a BT7 parts manual for sale? Are reprints available? I
> have tried most of the literature houses with no luck.Also, I have a
> leaky steering box. What is the accepted oil? Some previous postings
> indicate that these boxes leak fairly often and grease may be
> substituted.Thanks,Nick, 1960 BT7, #5682
>
>_______________________________________________
>Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
>The most personalized portal on the Web!
--
This message has been scanned for viruses and
dangerous content by our MailScanner, and is
believed to be clean.
From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 11:05:42 -0800
Subject: Taxing the Internet
It has long been established that the information about the Postal Service
wanting to tax e-mail was an urban legend - a hoax. There is an Act that
prohibits taxes on the Internet, The Internet Tax Freedom Act. However, that
act is due to expire this weekend. Note: This is not about taxing Internet
purchases. This is about taxing your e-mails or Internet use. If the Act is
not made permanent, cities and/or states COULD take steps to create this tax.
This morning, on KGO radio (San Francisco), Congressman Christopher Cox
reported that the US House voted unanimously to make the ban permanent, There
are, however, four US Senators that are holding back and preventing approval.
These Senators are: Lamar Alexander, TN; Kent Conrad, ND; George Voinovich,
OH; and Maria Cantrel, WA.
Some e-mails and/or phone calls to these four Senators could encourage them to
vote with the majority or we could see a hoax become reality.
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 11:24:16 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Best way to pay individuals in the UK
Have them set up a paypal account and then use your
credit card to xfer the money. I believe this will
be the most cost effective method. Bank wire charges
are quite high for small transactions.
Dean
--- Patton Dickson <kpdii@earthlink.net> wrote:
> I am trying to buys some parts from an individual in
> the UK and he wants
> payment by Pounds Sterling cash or international
> money order. Since I don't
> want to send cash, any suggestions where the best
> place to get a MO drawn up
> in Pounds Sterling?
>
> Thanks
> Patton
>
> -------------------------------------
> Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
>
__________________________________
Exclusive Video Premiere - Britney Spears
http://launch.yahoo.com/promos/britneyspears/
From =?iso-8859-1?q?Paul=20Baker?= <paulbaker51 at yahoo.co.uk>
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 20:00:01 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: Which Anti-Roll bar?
---------------------------------
Want to chat instantly with your online friends? Get the FREE Yahoo!Messenger
From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 15:00:34 -0500
Subject: RE: Noise of a fan Hitting Paper
My shop has found new fields and will also put in new bearings and brushes.
Should be good as new.
tom
> [Original Message]
> From: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
> To: Greg Lemon <glemon@neb.rr.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 10/29/03 7:36:45 AM
> Subject: RE: Noise of a fan Hitting Paper
>
> Generator bearings??
>
> I was hearing something similiar in my BJ8 and traced it to the
generator.
> The generator is now at the shop to be bebuilt. hope the problem is
solved.
>
>
> > [Original Message]
> > From: Greg Lemon <glemon@neb.rr.com>
> > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Date: 10/28/03 8:27:10 PM
> > Subject: Noise of a fan Hitting Paper
From "Vink, Graham" <vinkg at fleishman.com>
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 14:15:20 -0600
Subject: RE: Taxing the Internet
It's especially ironic coming from a state where the anti-tax nuts have
destroyed the educational system and created an enormous budget deficit,
resulting in such a legislative circus that the only natural response
was to elect a clown as governor.
Graham
-----Original Message-----
From: Marge and/or Len [mailto:thehartnetts@earthlink.net]
Sent: Wednesday, October 29, 2003 2:06 PM
To: Healeys Mailing List
Subject: Taxing the Internet
This is not directly Healey related but it could impact your use of The
List.
It has long been established that the information about the Postal
Service wanting to tax e-mail was an urban legend - a hoax. There is an
Act that prohibits taxes on the Internet, The Internet Tax Freedom Act.
However, that act is due to expire this weekend. Note: This is not
about taxing Internet purchases. This is about taxing your e-mails or
Internet use. If the Act is not made permanent, cities and/or states
COULD take steps to create this tax.
This morning, on KGO radio (San Francisco), Congressman Christopher Cox
reported that the US House voted unanimously to make the ban permanent,
There are, however, four US Senators that are holding back and
preventing approval. These Senators are: Lamar Alexander, TN; Kent
Conrad, ND; George Voinovich, OH; and Maria Cantrel, WA.
Some e-mails and/or phone calls to these four Senators could encourage
them to vote with the majority or we could see a hoax become reality.
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 14:25:07 -0600
Subject: RE: BJ8 disc wheels - more info
-----Original Message-----
From: rjhco [mailto:rjh.co@att.net]
Sent: Wednesday, October 29, 2003 12:59 PM
To: Brashear, Jack, N
Subject: RE: BJ8 disc wheels
Jack: Thanks for the tip. I did not know that adapters were required
in
the rear to get the track correct. Best regards, Jim
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
04.jpg]
From WilKo at aol.com
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 15:21:42 EST
Subject: Re: Which Anti-Roll bar?
Rick
San Diego
From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 12:38:13 -0800
Subject: RE: Which Anti-Roll bar?
From Jnhorn at aol.com
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 16:03:11 EST
Subject: Anti-roll bar
From Bill Wagner <wcwagner at soltec.net>
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 15:28:23 -0600
Subject: Re: Leather and buckles
wcwagner@soltec.net
http://ccsportscarclub.org (Champaign County Sports Car Club)
http://cir-scca.org (Central Illinois Region - SCCA)
From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 16:13:02 -0600
Subject: RE: Best way to pay individuals in the UK
Patton
-----Original Message-----
From: Dean Caccavo [mailto:healeybn7@yahoo.com]
Sent: Wednesday, October 29, 2003 1:24 PM
To: Patton Dickson; healey (E-mail)
Subject: Re: Best way to pay individuals in the UK
Patton -
Have them set up a paypal account and then use your
credit card to xfer the money. I believe this will
be the most cost effective method. Bank wire charges
are quite high for small transactions.
Dean
--- Patton Dickson <kpdii@earthlink.net> wrote:
> I am trying to buys some parts from an individual in
> the UK and he wants
> payment by Pounds Sterling cash or international
> money order. Since I don't
> want to send cash, any suggestions where the best
> place to get a MO drawn up
> in Pounds Sterling?
>
> Thanks
> Patton
From "William Kollar" <wkollar at nycap.rr.com>
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 18:39:10 -0500
Subject: Re: Best way to pay individuals in the UK
I haven't used them in a couple of years, but the last time I did, I
believe that they were charging a flat rate of $5.00. They issued me
a check against the National Westminster Bank in London in the name of
the person/company that I was sending the money to. It took a little
less than a week for them to get the check to me here in NY.
Another option might be to use PayPal.
______________________________________________________
Ever Wonder ?
__ bill kollar
----- Original Message -----
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 29, 2003 8:47 AM
Subject: Best way to pay individuals in the UK
| I am trying to buys some parts from an individual in the UK and he
wants
| payment by Pounds Sterling cash or international money order. Since
I don't
| want to send cash, any suggestions where the best place to get a MO
drawn up
| in Pounds Sterling?
|
From Magnus Karlsson <492karlsson at telia.com>
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 00:51:05 +0100
Subject: Mr Finespanner
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
From "Gil Rockwell" <gilrockwell at comcast.net>
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 18:55:49 -0500
Subject: RE: List privacy policy
Thanks for listening.
Gil
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Tracy Drummond
Sent: Wednesday, October 29, 2003 7:30 AM
To: Bruce Steele
Cc: Healey Mail Group
Subject: Re: List privacy policy
Bruce,
If I was on Viagra the last thing I would want to do is read 8000
emails. Good luck.
Tracy
Bruce Steele wrote:
>Sorry to bomb the list with this question, but I was unable to find an
>answer in the list website(s). What is the list's privacy policy? I
>emailed the list administrator, but didn't get a response. I will soon be
>changing ISPs, and the last thing I want is 8,000 emails a day on Viagra!
>
>Bruce Steele
>1960 BN7
>bsteele2@pacbell.net
From WilKo at aol.com
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 19:11:17 EST
Subject: Re: List privacy policy
> without fear of reprisal of members who don't want to see
> emails that may be considered ads.
>
F**k those members. Read the rules. I'm tired of reading their whining, and
the timid way that good, helpful members are afraid to post valuable, useful
personal classified ads. Personal classifieid are fine by the rules.
Rick
San Diego
From David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 16:24:51 -0800
Subject: Test
From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 19:52:24 EST
Subject: Re: BT7 parts manual & steering box
From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 19:58:07 -0500
Subject: RE: Taxing the Internet
Just my opinion, I could be wrong.
Cheers
Tom
> [Original Message]
> From: Vink, Graham <vinkg@fleishman.com>
> To: Healeys Mailing List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 10/29/03 3:15:47 PM
> Subject: RE: Taxing the Internet
>
> Speaking purely for myself, I regard this posting as entirely off-topic
> and inappropriate for the list.
>
> It's especially ironic coming from a state where the anti-tax nuts have
> destroyed the educational system and created an enormous budget deficit,
> resulting in such a legislative circus that the only natural response
> was to elect a clown as governor.
>
> Graham
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Marge and/or Len [mailto:thehartnetts@earthlink.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, October 29, 2003 2:06 PM
> To: Healeys Mailing List
> Subject: Taxing the Internet
>
>
> This is not directly Healey related but it could impact your use of The
> List.
>
> It has long been established that the information about the Postal
> Service wanting to tax e-mail was an urban legend - a hoax. There is an
> Act that prohibits taxes on the Internet, The Internet Tax Freedom Act.
> However, that act is due to expire this weekend. Note: This is not
> about taxing Internet purchases. This is about taxing your e-mails or
> Internet use. If the Act is not made permanent, cities and/or states
> COULD take steps to create this tax.
>
> This morning, on KGO radio (San Francisco), Congressman Christopher Cox
> reported that the US House voted unanimously to make the ban permanent,
> There are, however, four US Senators that are holding back and
> preventing approval. These Senators are: Lamar Alexander, TN; Kent
> Conrad, ND; George Voinovich, OH; and Maria Cantrel, WA.
>
> Some e-mails and/or phone calls to these four Senators could encourage
> them to vote with the majority or we could see a hoax become reality.
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 19:24:09 -0600
Subject: Re: BT7 parts manual & steering box
From "Rick &7& Neves" <Rick at genomictechnologies.com>
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 20:46:38 -0500
Subject: Flywheel surface levels - Its not all flat!
A question he had for the list had to do with the surface level that the
clutch rides on and the surface that the pressure plate mounts to. These two
surfaces are separated by a small distance. It looks to me like 3/16ths of an
inch.
Anyway does anyone know what the surface level distance should be between the
center surface where the clutch rides and the outer surface where the pressure
plate mounts to. I doesn't appear that they should be equal. The outer surface
on mine (Before machining) is lower than the center and since this part
shouldn't be the one that is wearing, it must have started lower.
If anyone is interested in the progress of the Engine rebuild please check out
the website I've set up
www.rickneves.com/engine.html
Sincerely
Rick Neves
'56 BN2
&7&
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.532 / Virus Database: 326 - Release Date: 10/27/2003
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 19:48:18 -0600
Subject: Re: Which Anti-Roll bar?
From Teddybear <teddyb3 at verizon.net>
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 21:02:50 -0500
Subject: Re: test
On Wed, 29 Oct 2003 07:31:07 -0600, you wrote:
>Yes, it works just fine Teddy.
>
>What series is your Healey? Ever been on a majordomo list before?
>
>Welcome to the List, Mark
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 18:10:36 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Which Anti-Roll bar?
I have the cape international rose jointed roll bar w/
poly bushes on my BJ8 and it absolutely ROCKS! The
car can handle hard curves much better - with the old
anti roll bar the weight of the front end really
pushed the car and suspension through curves. With
the rose jointed roll bar it now holds the road
significantly better. The curvy mountain roads in
hong kong - I now navigate them with great confidence.
I'd say this roll bar was the single best & noticable
improvement I've ever made to the driving enjoyment of
the car.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Paul Baker <paulbaker51@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
> I'm planning to improve the front suspension on the
> BJ8 I use for road and track use. The car currently
> has a standard anti-roll bar with rather tired
> rubber bushes and what appear uprated shocks but
> otherwise a standard setup. Denis Welch offers 7/8"
> anti-roll bars with either rose jointed links or
> rubber jointed links.
>
> Has anyone tried these or similar products and what
> are the benefits and drawbacks.
>
> Paul
>
> 66 BJ8 rally spec
> 67 BJ8
From "Healey, Graham" <Graham.Healey at lse.com.au>
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 13:12:58 +1100
Subject: Hunting for an e-mail address from the archive
From "Healey, Graham" <Graham.Healey at lse.com.au>
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 13:27:02 +1100
Subject: e-mail address from the archive
From WilKo at aol.com
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 21:30:58 EST
Subject: Re: Which Anti-Roll bar?
Rick
San Diego
In a message dated 10/29/03 12:08:26 PM, paulbaker51@yahoo.co.uk writes:
> Denis Welch offers 7/8" anti-roll bars with either rose jointed links or
> rubber jointed links.
From JBHawkes at aol.com
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 21:56:47 EST
Subject: BJ8 Brake Question
Can anyone help with a diagnosis? My knowledge of brake systems is limited,
and I have not found any help for this particular problem in an of the repair
manuals.
Thanks IA
Jim Hawkes
BJ8
100M
From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 20:11:14 -0700
Subject: Re: BJ8 disc wheels
Bill Lawrence
"Brashear, Jack, N" wrote:
> Hi All, just a word of something you may want to think about...I
> recently converted my BT7 Mk2 to bolt-on wheels and I'm using 15" KN
> Minators (Minilite look-alikes) which are available from most of the
> usual suppliers. The AH bolt pattern is 5 on 5" diameter. All the GM
> rims I've seen (except for older pickups) are 5 on 4 7/8" diameter. You
> can purchase adapters (not spacers) all day long for 5 on 5" to adapt to
> 5 on 4 7/8" if you want to use GM wheels but if you want to use the keep
> the period English style, you're gonna have problems finding compatible
> adapters. I ended up having my machinist make me some out of 6061T6
> aluminum alloy 2" thick for the rear wheels. This puts the rear track
> width back pretty close to the same as when you had wire wheels.
> Expensive, but worth it to preserve the "English" look and to preserve
> the track width. Never mind any of this if you're not so inclined.
> Jack
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: m.brouillette@comcast.net [mailto:m.brouillette@comcast.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, October 29, 2003 9:42 AM
> To: 'Richard J. Hockert, Esq.'
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: BJ8 disc wheels
>
> Richard,
>
> If you do end up doing the adapter route, I have a set of
> Chevy rim adapters that came off a BT7 that would work for your needs.
>
> Mike Brouillette
> 59 BT7
> > Richard,
> > If you don't find any hubs, you can cut the splines off your existing
> hubs
> > (or get some with worn out splines) and bolt on some adapters. This
> only
> > works with BJ8's because of the through bolts for the brake discs.
> > Ken Freese
> > 65 BJ8
>
> ***
From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 20:20:42 -0700
Subject: Re: Fuel Gauge Q (and stuff for sale (3.54))
If the gauge works you can just switch the gauge face and maybe the chrome
bezel from the Healey gauge. That would save you having to removing and handle
the more delicate bits from the case. I usually manage to damage the things,
just clumsy I guess.
Bill Lawrence
M Lempert wrote:
> Thanks to everyone that responded to my fuel gauge question. However, I'm
> still left wondering.
>
> I'm going to try an experiment and will report back to the list - even if it
> (I) fails misserably. I've purchased a used gauge from an MG of the same
> size and configuration as the Healey. I'll do a bench test first to ensure
> it works, then test it with the Healey sending unit. If all works okay
> I'll then attempt to switch the internals with my non-functioning Healey
> gauge, while preserving the original faceplate. If this works it should
> give me a functioning gauge at the fraction of the cost of a rebuild. Maybe
> I'll also be able to isolate and resolve the fluctuation problem.
>
> Now that I have your attention, I have a steering wheel on ebay with no
> reserve. Those interested may view it at:
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&category=33704
> &item=2439734477
>
> I also have a new, unused 14" Moto Lita steering wheel that I won't be
> needing. I had planned to use it for my BN7 marathon renovation, but will
> now be using something else. It comes complete with the outer retaining
> ring. I think Moss charges $240 (insane) for this wheel. I'd like to get
> $165 - or reasonable offer - before placing on ebay.
>
> On another subject, people have been asking the status of my second 3.54
> gear order. I've avoided advertising this in the past because of list
> sensitivities. However, numerous folks have encouraged me to post. My
> appologies to those that might disagree.
>
> I attempted to put in my order last month but faile to negotiate a lower
> deposit. Although I don't have my target number of 100 sold, I thought I
> would take a chance and commit early if I could get away with a lesser down
> payment. Apparently the gear folks cover themselves very well - probably
> due to past experiences - and won't budge on the deposit. I'm within 10
> sets of collecting enough deposits to go ahead. The good news is that the
> factory lead time is down to five months. We'll be reving lower by summer
> if I can get the order in soon.
>
> Regards,
> Mike Lempert
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 21:12:59 -0700
Subject: Re: Taxing the Internet
If you are speaking purely for yourself why did you send it to the list?
You could have just ignored it instead of adding your own editorial.
Dave Russell
Vink, Graham wrote:
> Speaking purely for myself, I regard this posting as entirely off-topic
> and inappropriate for the list.
>
> It's especially ironic coming from a state where the anti-tax nuts have
> destroyed the educational system and created an enormous budget deficit,
> resulting in such a legislative circus that the only natural response
> was to elect a clown as governor.
>
> Graham
From "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid at hotmail.com>
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 04:20:02 +0000
Subject: FOR SALE: Rare "Nubrex" grease gun for BN1 series cars
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2440138292
Reid Trummel
Portland, Oregon
100, 100M, Bugeye, Ski-Master
_________________________________________________________________
Want to check if your PC is virus-infected? Get a FREE computer virus scan
online from McAfee.
http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 23:32:21 -0500
Subject: Re: BT7 parts manual & steering box
Purchased the steering lube from Jon a couple months ago and put it in.
Easier said than done. So far all seems good. No evidence of leaks
anywhere. Will reserve any enthusiasm until say next summer.
Keith Pennell
> Hi Nick
>
> I have Penrite Steering Lube available in 500ml bottles for $8.50 plus
> shipping. It is formulated to NOT seek avenues of escape. If you would
> like my brochure packet please let me have your mailing address and I'll
> get one in the mail.
>
> Also you might try British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 for the BT7 parts
> manual.
>
> Let me know if I can help.
> Jon
>
> Classic Auto Lubes
> 12803 CR 1222
> Tyler, Tx 75709
> Ph: 903-561-4858
> Fax: 903-561-7177
> Email: jfm@spyderinternet.com
> www.classicautolubes.com
>
> At 09:53 AM 10/29/03 -0500, you wrote:
> > Does anyone have a BT7 parts manual for sale? Are reprints available? I
> > have tried most of the literature houses with no luck.Also, I have a
> > leaky steering box. What is the accepted oil? Some previous postings
> > indicate that these boxes leak fairly often and grease may be
> > substituted.Thanks,Nick, 1960 BT7, #5682
From "Ron Davies" <rdavies1 at cox.net>
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 20:36:37 -0800
Subject: RE: Taxing the Internet
Speaking purely for myself, I regard this posting as entirely off-topic
and inappropriate for the list.
It's especially ironic coming from a state where the anti-tax nuts have
destroyed the educational system and created an enormous budget deficit,
resulting in such a legislative circus that the only natural response
was to elect a clown as governor.
__________________
Graham:
You were correct that it was off list and shouldn't have been listed.
You were wrong in commenting further and thereby opening up the list to
comment.
You were especially wrong in your facts.
Davis was recalled even by his own party. Revenues were up dramatically but
spending increased exponentially. Davis was corrupt. He signed legislation
for driver's licenses for illegal aliens!
It was not a tax problem but a spending problem.
The left had 40 years of spending past all revenues. Private schools educate
students better at less than half the cost.
Teachers unions won't allow vouchers and won't be tested for competence.
Education was ruined in CA due to free wheeling free spending stupidity. I
heard that we teach in over 100 languages at last count.
Atlas just finally shrugged. Communism failed. It's amazing how the left
always lowers itself to personal insults (clown) when they can't face the
facts. It's interesting that those that want to take your money by force
call their victim a "nut".
Ron
From "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid at hotmail.com>
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 04:40:28 +0000
Subject: Thought of the day...
Submitted by:
Reid Trummel
Portland, Oregon
100, 100M, Bugeye, Ski-Master
_________________________________________________________________
Cheer a special someone with a fun Halloween eCard from American Greetings!
Go to http://www.msn.americangreetings.com/index_msn.pd?source=msne134
from a state where we routinely beat BJ8 occupants, but rarely catch on
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <gilrockwell@comcast.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 22:49:05 -0600
Subject: Re: List privacy policy
> In a message dated 10/29/03 3:57:56 PM, gilrockwell@comcast.net writes:
>
>
> > without fear of reprisal of members who don't want to see
> > emails that may be considered ads.
> >
>
> F**k those members. Read the rules. I'm tired of reading their whining,
and
> the timid way that good, helpful members are afraid to post valuable,
useful
> personal classified ads. Personal classifieid are fine by the rules.
>
> Rick
> San Diego
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <gilrockwell@comcast.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 21:49:46 -0700
Subject: Re: Which Anti-Roll bar?
It is a matter of how you want the car to feel. In my opinion the BJ8's
are front end heavy to start with. Any increase in front roll stiffness
alone will just make the car push (understeer) more. Inexperienced
drivers may prefer the more secure feel of understeer along with flatter
cornering.
Anytime that you increase roll stiffness it will decrease maximum tire
grip. Cars that corner perfectly flat may feel good but you are
sacrificing tire grip to achieve it. Simple mechanics, The anti-roll bar
is a weight transfer device, how else could it resist roll. Any time you
transfer weight from two tires to one tire the grip goes down at that end.
If you want a more balanced feel adding a rear bar will do the trick &
make the car more neutral handling by increasing oversteer. Some drivers
are not comfortable with oversteer of any degree. (tail happy)
Note - some autox drivers prefer the quick turn in of an oversteering
car & just let the tail hang out.
If you really want to balance the car for fast road use use the 7/8
front bar & add a rear bar.
Just my opinion & subject to disagreement.
Dave Russell
Paul Baker wrote:
> I'm planning to improve the front suspension on the BJ8 I use for road and
>track use. The car currently has a standard anti-roll bar with rather tired
>rubber bushes and what appear uprated shocks but otherwise a standard setup.
>Denis Welch offers 7/8" anti-roll bars with either rose jointed links or
>rubber jointed links.
>
> Has anyone tried these or similar products and what are the benefits and
>drawbacks.
>
> Paul
>
> 66 BJ8 rally spec
> 67 BJ8
From WilKo at aol.com
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <gilrockwell@comcast.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 00:11:03 EST
Subject: Re: Which Anti-Roll bar?
Rick
San Diego
In a message dated 10/29/03 9:01:52 PM, rusd@velocitus.net writes:
> Anytime that you increase roll stiffness it will decrease maximum tire
> grip. Cars that corner perfectly flat may feel good but you are
> sacrificing tire grip to achieve it. Simple mechanics, The anti-roll bar
> is a weight transfer device, how else could it resist roll. Any time you
> transfer weight from two tires to one tire the grip goes down at that end.
From "F. Ronald Rader" <rader at interworld.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <gilrockwell@comcast.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 21:13:01 -0800
Subject: RE: Taxing the Internet
Ron Davies, Thanks.
Ron Rader
At 08:36 PM 10/29/2003, Ron Davies wrote:
>Graham:
>You were correct that it was off list and shouldn't have been listed.
>You were wrong in commenting further and thereby opening up the list to
>comment.
>You were especially wrong in your facts.
>Davis was recalled even by his own party. Revenues were up dramatically but
>spending increased exponentially. Davis was corrupt. He signed legislation
>for driver's licenses for illegal aliens!
>It was not a tax problem but a spending problem.
>The left had 40 years of spending past all revenues. Private schools educate
>students better at less than half the cost.
>Teachers unions won't allow vouchers and won't be tested for competence.
>Education was ruined in CA due to free wheeling free spending stupidity. I
>heard that we teach in over 100 languages at last count.
>Atlas just finally shrugged. Communism failed. It's amazing how the left
>always lowers itself to personal insults (clown) when they can't face the
>facts. It's interesting that those that want to take your money by force
>call their victim a "nut".
>Ron
From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <gilrockwell@comcast.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 22:19:09 -0800
Subject: Re: Taxing the Internet
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>; "Healeys Mailing List"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 29, 2003 8:36 PM
Subject: RE: Taxing the Internet
> Graham said:
>
> Speaking purely for myself, I regard this posting as entirely off-topic
> and inappropriate for the list.
>
> It's especially ironic coming from a state where the anti-tax nuts have
> destroyed the educational system and created an enormous budget deficit,
> resulting in such a legislative circus that the only natural response
> was to elect a clown as governor.
>
> __________________
> Graham:
> You were correct that it was off list and shouldn't have been listed.
> You were wrong in commenting further and thereby opening up the list to
> comment.
> You were especially wrong in your facts.
> Davis was recalled even by his own party. Revenues were up dramatically
but
> spending increased exponentially. Davis was corrupt. He signed legislation
> for driver's licenses for illegal aliens!
> It was not a tax problem but a spending problem.
> The left had 40 years of spending past all revenues. Private schools
educate
> students better at less than half the cost.
> Teachers unions won't allow vouchers and won't be tested for competence.
> Education was ruined in CA due to free wheeling free spending stupidity. I
> heard that we teach in over 100 languages at last count.
> Atlas just finally shrugged. Communism failed. It's amazing how the left
> always lowers itself to personal insults (clown) when they can't face the
> facts. It's interesting that those that want to take your money by force
> call their victim a "nut".
> Ron
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <gilrockwell@comcast.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 22:31:14 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Which Anti-Roll bar?
A good point but not necessarily true. Anti roll bars
improve road holding not so much by transferring
weight from one wheel to the next, but by keeping the
center of gravity between the two tires balanced. If
you push a turn with a weak anti roll bar, the result
is a shift in the centre of gravity to the outside
tire as the car rolls into that tire - eventually that
tire is stressed and can lose grip causing the car to
slide into the wall at turn 2 at Sebring!
A stiff bar will shift a good portion of the body roll
to the inside tire, keeping weight distribution more
balanced between the two tires (and keeping the
chassis parallel to the road surface), reducing
understeer and making the car much more responsive,
particularly at high speed.
Let the critiques ensue!
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net> wrote:
> Hi Paul,
>
> It is a matter of how you want the car to feel. In
> my opinion the BJ8's
> are front end heavy to start with. Any increase in
> front roll stiffness
> alone will just make the car push (understeer) more.
> Inexperienced
> drivers may prefer the more secure feel of
> understeer along with flatter
> cornering.
>
> Anytime that you increase roll stiffness it will
> decrease maximum tire
> grip. Cars that corner perfectly flat may feel good
> but you are
> sacrificing tire grip to achieve it. Simple
> mechanics, The anti-roll bar
> is a weight transfer device, how else could it
> resist roll. Any time you
> transfer weight from two tires to one tire the grip
> goes down at that end.
>
> If you want a more balanced feel adding a rear bar
> will do the trick &
> make the car more neutral handling by increasing
> oversteer. Some drivers
> are not comfortable with oversteer of any degree.
> (tail happy)
>
> Note - some autox drivers prefer the quick turn in
> of an oversteering
> car & just let the tail hang out.
>
> If you really want to balance the car for fast road
> use use the 7/8
> front bar & add a rear bar.
>
> Just my opinion & subject to disagreement.
>
> Dave Russell
>
>
> Paul Baker wrote:
> > I'm planning to improve the front suspension on
> the BJ8 I use for road and track use. The car
> currently has a standard anti-roll bar with rather
> tired rubber bushes and what appear uprated shocks
> but otherwise a standard setup. Denis Welch offers
> 7/8" anti-roll bars with either rose jointed links
> or rubber jointed links.
> >
> > Has anyone tried these or similar products and
> what are the benefits and drawbacks.
> >
> > Paul
> >
> > 66 BJ8 rally spec
> > 67 BJ8
From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <gilrockwell@comcast.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 00:33:03 -0600
Subject: Re: Noise of a fan Hitting Paper--Solved
Of course this leads me to another question, my first check of the usual
sources show only BJ8 generators available. Will any old Lucas Generator
do, or does it have to be a BN1 generator?
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <gilrockwell@comcast.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 22:37:24 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: BJ8 Brake Question
Your disc brake pistons (pucks) are likely rusted and
need to be replaced. Factory pucks are chrome plated
steel. Over time corrosion displaces the chrome
plating and causes the corroded surface to hang up on
the rubber o-ring that seals the puck's brake fluid
chamber. Usually the corrosion happens where the
pucks' surfaces are the most stressed - against the
rubber o-rings - hence the sticking.
You have to replace the pucks with new pucks,
preferably the newer Stainless Steel variety. They
aren't all that expensive and should last forever.
You should buy a caliper rebuild kit while you are at
it. Rebuilding the calipers are super easy and can be
done in a couple hours if you don't dilly dally and
you don't split the caliper halves.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- JBHawkes@aol.com wrote:
> Am having a problem with the left front disc brake
> of my BJ8. The pads don't
> readily retract when the brake pedal is released,
> and as a result there is a
> very slight drag on the disc from the pads. Not
> noticeable when driving or
> stopping (brakes seem to work fine), but there is
> frequently a "squeal" from the
> left unit when driving as a result of the slight
> drag. If the car is jacked
> and the wheel turned, the drag is evident.
>
> Can anyone help with a diagnosis? My knowledge of
> brake systems is limited,
> and I have not found any help for this particular
> problem in an of the repair
> manuals.
>
> Thanks IA
>
> Jim Hawkes
> BJ8
> 100M
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <gilrockwell@comcast.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 23:53:14 -0700
Subject: Re: Which Anti-Roll bar?
Hi Rick,
WilKo@aol.com wrote:
> That isn't quite right. See diagrams and performance figures for what
> the bar does.
What diagrams & performance figures.
> As a car leans the weight is shifted more to the outer
> tire, and angling it, making its contact patch smaller and offcenter.
> The flatter the car is, the more contact surface you get for that outer
> tire, and the added bonus of bringing the inner wheel more into the
> equation.
Dialing in a bit of static negative camber will help as much. Modern
radial tires are not nearly as camber sensitive as the older tires. The
sidewall flexes instead of lifting the tread so much.
As the outside spring compresses, the bar also compresses the inside
spring. When you compress the inside spring it is taking weight off of
the inside tire. (lifting it) "bringing the inside wheel less into the
equation". Which has more grip? - One tire with all of the weight on it
or two tires each with partial weight on them. The tires also have a
grip limit which depends on how much weight is on them.
A really stiff sway bar would keep the car perfectly flat on one end
with the inside tire carrying practically no load at all.
Check this site & scan the part about TLLTD. I can find about 20 more
that say the same thing. We must be talking about apples & oranges.
http://www.grassrootsmotorsports.com/swaybars.html
I give up.
Cheers,
Dave Russell
> In a message dated 10/29/03 9:01:52 PM, rusd@velocitus.net writes:
>
>
>> Anytime that you increase roll stiffness it will decrease maximum tire
>> grip. Cars that corner perfectly flat may feel good but you are
>> sacrificing tire grip to achieve it. Simple mechanics, The anti-roll bar
>> is a weight transfer device, how else could it resist roll. Any time you
>> transfer weight from two tires to one tire the grip goes down at that end.
From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <gilrockwell@comcast.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 23:57:27 -0700
Subject: Re: Thought of the day...
Bill Lawrence
Reid Trummel wrote:
> Most of American life consists of driving somewhere and then returning home,
> wondering why the hell you went.
> -- John Updike
>
> Submitted by:
> Reid Trummel
> Portland, Oregon
> 100, 100M, Bugeye, Ski-Master
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <gilrockwell@comcast.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 00:46:47 -0700
Subject: Re: Which Anti-Roll bar?
"ABOUT THE AUTHOR:
Dave Headley is a mechanical engineer with over 30 years experience
designing and developing products in the automotive industry. He first
raced an SCCA MGB in 1966 and was the E-Production pole sitter at the
1996 SCCA National Championships at Mid-Ohio. Daves company, FAB-TEK
(located in southwestern Colorado), was formed to provide racing
hardware fabrication services to the racing world."
-------------------------------------------------------
Blue One Hundred wrote:
> Dave -
>
> A good point but not necessarily true. Anti roll bars
> improve road holding not so much by transferring
> weight from one wheel to the next, but by keeping the
> center of gravity between the two tires balanced. If
> you push a turn with a weak anti roll bar, the result
> is a shift in the centre of gravity to the outside
> tire as the car rolls into that tire - eventually that
> tire is stressed and can lose grip causing the car to
> slide into the wall at turn 2 at Sebring!
>
> A stiff bar will shift a good portion of the body roll
> to the inside tire, keeping weight distribution more
> balanced between the two tires (and keeping the
> chassis parallel to the road surface), reducing
> understeer and making the car much more responsive,
> particularly at high speed.
>
> Let the critiques ensue!
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
> --- Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net> wrote:
>
>>Hi Paul,
>>
>>It is a matter of how you want the car to feel. In
>>my opinion the BJ8's
>>are front end heavy to start with. Any increase in
>>front roll stiffness
>>alone will just make the car push (understeer) more.
>>Inexperienced
>>drivers may prefer the more secure feel of
>>understeer along with flatter
>>cornering.
>>
>>Anytime that you increase roll stiffness it will
>>decrease maximum tire
>>grip. Cars that corner perfectly flat may feel good
>>but you are
>>sacrificing tire grip to achieve it. Simple
>>mechanics, The anti-roll bar
>>is a weight transfer device, how else could it
>>resist roll. Any time you
>>transfer weight from two tires to one tire the grip
>>goes down at that end.
>>
>>If you want a more balanced feel adding a rear bar
>>will do the trick & make the car more neutral handling by increasing
>>oversteer. Some drivers
>>are not comfortable with oversteer of any degree.
>>(tail happy)
>>
>>Note - some autox drivers prefer the quick turn in
>>of an oversteering
>>car & just let the tail hang out.
>>
>>If you really want to balance the car for fast road
>>use use the 7/8
>>front bar & add a rear bar.
>>
>>Just my opinion & subject to disagreement.
>>
>>Dave Russell
>>
>>
>>Paul Baker wrote:
>>
>>>I'm planning to improve the front suspension on
>>
>>the BJ8 I use for road and track use. The car
>>currently has a standard anti-roll bar with rather
>>tired rubber bushes and what appear uprated shocks
>>but otherwise a standard setup. Denis Welch offers
>>7/8" anti-roll bars with either rose jointed links
>>or rubber jointed links.
>>
>>> Has anyone tried these or similar products and
>>
>>what are the benefits and drawbacks.
>>
>>> Paul
>>>
>>>66 BJ8 rally spec
>>>67 BJ8
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <gilrockwell@comcast.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 00:26:14 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Which Anti-Roll bar?
No, you misread the article about TLLTD. Print it out
a read it carefully.
By lifting the inside tire, the sway bar does NOT pull
the inside tire off the road as you seem to think, it
causes the car to act as a lever arm with the outer
tire working as the fulcrum - causing the car's weight
to fall back toward the inside tire, putting more
weight on the inside tire because car's CG comes back
into balance (see the article from Dave you sent me)
TLLTD is NOT talking about weight distribution with
the inside tire, it's talking about the change in
weight distribution from front to back of the car (re
read the article closely). If more weight is
transfered to the front of the car because of stiff
anti roll bar, the rear may come out faster because it
loses grip. Bad balance. You fix it by putting a
stiffer set up on the back (read Dave's article you
sent me). stiffer front and back your BJ8 will ROCK
through the curves like a ferrari.
I promise you, i can take turns a million times faster
in my BJ8 because of my rose jointed anti-roll bar.
Much less tire squeal, quicker turning - a tad less
understeer but not going fast enough to throw out the
back. The ride is bit tougher but I can take turns
now +20 mph from before without having to back off the
pedal.
What you are saying would counteract my direct
experience with my car.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net> wrote:
> Oh geez, why did I even get into this?
>
> Hi Rick,
>
> WilKo@aol.com wrote:
> > That isn't quite right. See diagrams and
> performance figures for what
> > the bar does.
>
> What diagrams & performance figures.
>
> > As a car leans the weight is shifted more to the
> outer
> > tire, and angling it, making its contact patch
> smaller and offcenter.
> > The flatter the car is, the more contact surface
> you get for that outer
> > tire, and the added bonus of bringing the inner
> wheel more into the
> > equation.
> Dialing in a bit of static negative camber will help
> as much. Modern
> radial tires are not nearly as camber sensitive as
> the older tires. The
> sidewall flexes instead of lifting the tread so
> much.
>
> As the outside spring compresses, the bar also
> compresses the inside
> spring. When you compress the inside spring it is
> taking weight off of
> the inside tire. (lifting it) "bringing the inside
> wheel less into the
> equation". Which has more grip? - One tire with all
> of the weight on it
> or two tires each with partial weight on them. The
> tires also have a
> grip limit which depends on how much weight is on
> them.
>
> A really stiff sway bar would keep the car perfectly
> flat on one end
> with the inside tire carrying practically no load at
> all.
>
> Check this site & scan the part about TLLTD. I can
> find about 20 more
> that say the same thing. We must be talking about
> apples & oranges.
> http://www.grassrootsmotorsports.com/swaybars.html
>
> I give up.
>
> Cheers,
> Dave Russell
>
> > In a message dated 10/29/03 9:01:52 PM,
> rusd@velocitus.net writes:
> >
> >
> >> Anytime that you increase roll stiffness it will
> decrease maximum tire
> >> grip. Cars that corner perfectly flat may feel
> good but you are
> >> sacrificing tire grip to achieve it. Simple
> mechanics, The anti-roll bar
> >> is a weight transfer device, how else could it
> resist roll. Any time you
> >> transfer weight from two tires to one tire the
> grip goes down at that end.
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <gilrockwell@comcast.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 00:29:44 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Noise of a fan Hitting Paper--Solved
Why don't you go for an alternator conversion? That
would be better than putting on a BJ8 gen set,
frankly. Besides, the BJ8 generator won't fit - it is
too big to fit on the BN1.
Send the Generator to someone to be rebuilt, you'd be
suprised what a decent electrical rebuilding shop can
do.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Greg Lemon <glemon@neb.rr.com> wrote:
> Thanks to the list, it was in fact the generator,
> rear bearing is worn to
> the point where the armature rubbed the inside of
> the casing, or field coil
> or whatever it is called. It looks to be kaput,
> wore a large amount off the
> armature. I thinking new generator not rebuild,
> has been few months since
> I had to put anything but fluids in, guess I was
> due, thanks for the help.
>
> Of course this leads me to another question, my
> first check of the usual
> sources show only BJ8 generators available. Will
> any old Lucas Generator
> do, or does it have to be a BN1 generator?
>
> Greg Lemon
> 54 BN1
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <gilrockwell@comcast.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 04:04:51 -0700
Subject: Re: Which Anti-Roll bar? continued
I don't know why we are not getting together on this.
I realize that TLLTD (tire lateral load distribution) is refering to
front/rear balance. I don't think that it was I who first introduced the
tire lift confusion into the discussion. TLLTD is what I was originally
referring to in my first handling feel discussion. I think that I simply
said that A heavier front bar alone would change the feel to more
understeer.
The amount of roll force (overturning) is fixed by the car weight, GC,
track width & cornering speed or centripital force. If this force is
causing 500 lbs of weight shift from inside to outside, the sway bar
can't arbitrarily change this to put more weight on the inside tire. It
can only lift the inside tire.
A quote from the "Dave Headley" article. "When a sway bar is added to
one end of a car, that end losses grip and the other end increases grip."
Take the case of an infinite sway bar. The wheels bolted directly to the
body with no springs. if the body rolls the outside tire is loaded more
& the inside tire loaded less. There is no way to "force" more weight to
the inside tire, except by cornering slower. Is there? If the cornering
forces are great enough the inside tire will be lifted off the ground,
running on three wheels & the outside tire taking the entire weight, the
inside tire doing nothing for traction. The weight cannot "fall back on
the inner tire" unless the car goes slower.
Are we anywhere near being on the same page yet?
I can't address your experience with your particular car. If you can't
throw out the back the front must be understeering (slipping first)
Think how much better it might do by adding a rear bar. Oh well.
Cheers,
Dave Russell
Blue One Hundred wrote:
> Dave -
>
> No, you misread the article about TLLTD. Print it out
> a read it carefully.
>
> By lifting the inside tire, the sway bar does NOT pull
> the inside tire off the road as you seem to think, it
> causes the car to act as a lever arm with the outer
> tire working as the fulcrum - causing the car's weight
> to fall back toward the inside tire, putting more
> weight on the inside tire because car's CG comes back
> into balance (see the article from Dave you sent me)
>
> TLLTD is NOT talking about weight distribution with
> the inside tire, it's talking about the change in
> weight distribution from front to back of the car (re
> read the article closely). If more weight is
> transfered to the front of the car because of stiff
> anti roll bar, the rear may come out faster because it
> loses grip. Bad balance. You fix it by putting a
> stiffer set up on the back (read Dave's article you
> sent me). stiffer front and back your BJ8 will ROCK
> through the curves like a ferrari.
>
> I promise you, i can take turns a million times faster
> in my BJ8 because of my rose jointed anti-roll bar.
> Much less tire squeal, quicker turning - a tad less
> understeer but not going fast enough to throw out the
> back. The ride is bit tougher but I can take turns
> now +20 mph from before without having to back off the
> pedal.
>
> What you are saying would counteract my direct
> experience with my car.
>
> Regards,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
>
> --- Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net> wrote:
>
>>Oh geez, why did I even get into this?
>>
>>Hi Rick,
>>
>>WilKo@aol.com wrote:
>>
>>>That isn't quite right. See diagrams and
>>
>>performance figures for what
>>
>>>the bar does.
>>
>>What diagrams & performance figures.
>>
>>
>>>As a car leans the weight is shifted more to the
>>
>>outer
>>
>>>tire, and angling it, making its contact patch
>>
>>smaller and offcenter.
>>
>>>The flatter the car is, the more contact surface
>>
>>you get for that outer
>>
>>>tire, and the added bonus of bringing the inner
>>
>>wheel more into the
>>
>>>equation.
>>
>>Dialing in a bit of static negative camber will help
>>as much. Modern
>>radial tires are not nearly as camber sensitive as
>>the older tires. The
>>sidewall flexes instead of lifting the tread so
>>much.
>>
>>As the outside spring compresses, the bar also
>>compresses the inside
>>spring. When you compress the inside spring it is
>>taking weight off of
>>the inside tire. (lifting it) "bringing the inside
>>wheel less into the
>>equation". Which has more grip? - One tire with all
>>of the weight on it
>>or two tires each with partial weight on them. The
>>tires also have a
>>grip limit which depends on how much weight is on
>>them.
>>
>>A really stiff sway bar would keep the car perfectly
>>flat on one end
>>with the inside tire carrying practically no load at
>>all.
>>
>>Check this site & scan the part about TLLTD. I can
>>find about 20 more
>>that say the same thing. We must be talking about
>>apples & oranges.
>>http://www.grassrootsmotorsports.com/swaybars.html
>>
>>I give up.
>>
>>Cheers,
>>Dave Russell
>>
>>
>>>In a message dated 10/29/03 9:01:52 PM,
>>
>>rusd@velocitus.net writes:
>>
>>>
>>>>Anytime that you increase roll stiffness it will
>>>
>>decrease maximum tire
>>
>>>>grip. Cars that corner perfectly flat may feel
>>>
>>good but you are
>>
>>>>sacrificing tire grip to achieve it. Simple
>>>
>>mechanics, The anti-roll bar
>>
>>>>is a weight transfer device, how else could it
>>>
>>resist roll. Any time you
>>
>>>>transfer weight from two tires to one tire the
>>>
>>grip goes down at that end.
From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <gilrockwell@comcast.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 07:29:57 -0500
Subject: Re: Noise of a fan Hitting Paper--Solved
tom
> [Original Message]
> From: Greg Lemon <glemon@neb.rr.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 10/30/03 1:33:42 AM
> Subject: Re: Noise of a fan Hitting Paper--Solved
>
> Thanks to the list, it was in fact the generator, rear bearing is worn to
> the point where the armature rubbed the inside of the casing, or field
coil
> or whatever it is called. It looks to be kaput, wore a large amount off
the
> armature. I thinking new generator not rebuild, has been few months
since
> I had to put anything but fluids in, guess I was due, thanks for the help.
>
> Of course this leads me to another question, my first check of the usual
> sources show only BJ8 generators available. Will any old Lucas Generator
> do, or does it have to be a BN1 generator?
From "Bob Johnson" <robert.w.johnson at earthlink.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <gilrockwell@comcast.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 07:53:45 -0500
Subject: Can't blow my horn
Phase2 BJ8.
The fuse in the horn circuit has blown about three times since spring. When I
replaced the fuse, the horn blew until the fuse blew again at some random
time. Last night when I replaced the fuse, the horn would not blow. Obviously,
there is was a problem before, now it seems to be worse. I tested the purple
wire for a circuit (dead short on ohmmeter). and circuit was there. Need to
test Purple-black wire that goes to switch, but don't know how to get to it.
What on the steering column do I have to remove? Or can I simply somehow
simply remove the button? My Haynes manual is no help. Anyone have any other
suggestions as to what to, or what is most probable cause of my problem?
TIA,
Bob Johnson
From Richard Gordon <HealeyHundred at comcast.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <gilrockwell@comcast.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 06:40:29 -0700
Subject: UK Payments
1. Cash (disguise it as photos).
2. PayPal
3. Western Union you can send payments to almost anywhere in the
world. (can be transacted at thousands of places including many grocery
stores).
4. Purchase AAA Travelers checks in pounds sterling, no fee and good
rate of exchange...just sign them in both places and make them payable
to the seller.
5. The post office sells International money orders, but it takes them
about 2-3 weeks to process the request and mail them.
Good luck.
Richard Gordon
From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <gilrockwell@comcast.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 08:45:28 -0500
Subject: RE: Can't blow my horn
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Johnson
Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2003 7:54 AM
To: healeys
Subject: Can't blow my horn
List,
Phase2 BJ8.
The fuse in the horn circuit has blown about three times since spring.
When I
replaced the fuse, the horn blew until the fuse blew again at some
random
time. Last night when I replaced the fuse, the horn would not blow.
Obviously,
there is was a problem before, now it seems to be worse. I tested the
purple
wire for a circuit (dead short on ohmmeter). and circuit was there. Need
to
test Purple-black wire that goes to switch, but don't know how to get to
it.
What on the steering column do I have to remove? Or can I simply somehow
simply remove the button? My Haynes manual is no help. Anyone have any
other
suggestions as to what to, or what is most probable cause of my problem?
TIA,
Bob Johnson
From Chris Dimmock <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <gilrockwell@comcast.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 01:10:03 +1100
Subject: Re: Which Anti-Roll bar? continued
You actually need to be 'in the ballpark' before any text book theory on
racing suspension settings comes close to what happens in a production, road
going 40 year old car, with some 'give' in the chassis
One of the pages I bookmarked when I was trying to get rid of the understeer
in my healey a few years back was this page.
http://rogerkrausracing.com/overundr.html
Read the 'list' on this page carefully. Thats pretty much what you are
saying, isn't it Dave?
Now read the 'note' at the bottom - the 2nd last paragraph at the bottom of
the page. Thats exactly what you are saying, isn't it Alan?
????????????????????????????
So - how do you correct understeer in an understeering car?
Why does the note at the bottom contradict the chart?
>From my experience - the chart only works if you are already 'in the
ballpark'.
A standard healey understeers - just like almost every other production car.
Ask the average Healey racer what spring rate he runs in the front.
Here's a clue:
http://www.bighealey.co.uk/new%20healey/healey02/Healey%20front%20suspension%202.htm
So the question becomes - If a standard Healey is an understeering car - why
would you double or triple the standard front spring rate (ie stiffen the
front - go back to the chart!), if it's already understeering? Answer-
because - at around 300 and something lb rate standard front spring rates -
you aren't even in the right suburb - let alone the right ballpark. And at
450lbs - you still aren't in the park
And thats why a bigger (7/8in) front rollbar - on its own - will 'improve' a
road going standard suspension Healey - because it removes some of the body
roll on cornering - but doesn't affect the ride - and actually gets the car
'closer' to the ballpark (but still in the next suburb).
And thats probably why Dennis Welchs 'race spec' rollbars start at 1in and
go to 1 1/4in. A small increase in swaybar diameter yields a huge increase
in stiffness - eg going from 7/8 in to 1 1/8 is actually around 175%
increase in stiffness (as diameter increases, stiffness increases to the 4th
power)
My understeer problem was actually caused mainly by my detroit locker diff.
I put in a quaife, and went up to 600lb front springs and back to a heavier
front bar. Transformed the car. And think how much time I wasted fitting
lighter rollbars trying to 'soften' the front, to cure my understeer........
Weird, isn't it.
Hope that helps.
Best regards
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
IMPORTANT: This email is intended for the use of the individual
addressee(s) named above and may contain information that is
confidential, privileged or unsuitable for overly sensitive persons with
no sense of humour or irrational religious or environmental beliefs. If
you are not the intended recipient, any dissemination, distribution or
copying of this email is not authorised and would be deemed to be
both an annoyance, and an irritating social faux pas. Mate.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
Cc: <WilKo@aol.com>; <paulbaker51@yahoo.co.uk>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2003 10:04 PM
Subject: Re: Which Anti-Roll bar? continued
> Hi Alan,
>
> I don't know why we are not getting together on this.
> I can't address your experience with your particular car. If you can't
> throw out the back the front must be understeering (slipping first)
> Think how much better it might do by adding a rear bar. Oh well.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Dave Russell
>
> Blue One Hundred wrote:
> > I promise you, i can take turns a million times faster
> > in my BJ8 because of my rose jointed anti-roll bar.
> > Much less tire squeal, quicker turning - a tad less
> > understeer but not going fast enough to throw out the
> > back. The ride is bit tougher but I can take turns
> > now +20 mph from before without having to back off the
> > pedal.
> >
> > What you are saying would counteract my direct
> > experience with my car.
From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <gilrockwell@comcast.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 08:59:16 -0600
Subject: Looking for ugly but working Trafficator
Does anyone have an old trafficator that externally is shot, but still
functions that they would part with?
Thanks
Patton
-------------------------------------
Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
Austin-Healey BN4
For Sale - 1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert
From "Tim Davis" <tld6008 at mchsi.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 08:59:28 -0600
Subject: BJ8 Brake Question
> Am having a problem with the left front disc brake of my BJ8. The pads
don't
> readily retract when the brake pedal is released, and as a result there is
a
> very slight drag on the disc from the pads. Not noticeable when driving
or
> stopping (brakes seem to work fine), but there is frequently a "squeal"
from the
> left unit when driving as a result of the slight drag. If the car is
jacked
> and the wheel turned, the drag is evident.
>
> Can anyone help with a diagnosis? My knowledge of brake systems is
limited,
> and I have not found any help for this particular problem in an of the
repair
> manuals.
>
> Thanks IA
>
> Jim Hawkes
> BJ8
> 100M
From "Peter C." <nosimport at mailbag.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 09:06:59 -0600
Subject: Re: BJ8 Brake Question
- --- JBHawkes@aol.com wrote:
> Am having a problem with the left front disc brake
> of my BJ8. The pads don't
> readily retract when the brake pedal is released,
> and as a result there is a
> very slight drag on the disc from the pads. <SNIP>
> Jim Hawkes
> BJ8
> 100M
From tom mitchell <3000mk3 at bighealey.org>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 10:35:06 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8 Brake Question
___________ ____________
(_______ \_______________/ ______ )
(_____ Tom Mitchell ____)
(SouthEast Michigan Austin Healey Club)
( mailto: tommitchell@bighealey.org )
At 10:06 AM 10/30/2003, Peter C. wrote:
>Jim,
> What Alan says is one possible scenario, and his suggested repair
> is right on.
> Another possible culprit could be an internally collapsing brake
> hose. The test to see whether the hose is a problem is to open the bleed
> screw when the pads are "tight". If they loosen up, then the hose is
> acting as a one-way valve. There isn't much pressure when the pads
> retract and only a slight blockage will cause the brakes to stick.
> Be safe.
> Peter C.
>===
>Alan wrote:
>Jim -
>Your disc brake pistons (pucks) are likely rusted and
>need to be replaced. <SNIP> Usually the corrosion happens where the
>pucks' surfaces are the most stressed - against the
>rubber o-rings - hence the sticking.
><SNIP>
>Cheers,
>Alan
>
>- --- JBHawkes@aol.com wrote:
> > Am having a problem with the left front disc brake
> > of my BJ8. The pads don't
> > readily retract when the brake pedal is released,
> > and as a result there is a
> > very slight drag on the disc from the pads. <SNIP>
> > Jim Hawkes
> > BJ8
> > 100M
From "Jim MacDonald" <clew65 at hotmail.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 16:49:13 +0000
Subject: can't blow horn
_________________________________________________________________
Concerned that messages may bounce because your Hotmail account has exceeded
its 2MB storage limit? Get Hotmail Extra Storage!
From "Greg Wilkinson" <gregwilkinson at adelphia.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 09:42:42 -0800
Subject: RE: Taxing the Internet
Best,
Greg
67 BJ8
> -----Original Message-----
>
> Speaking purely for myself, I regard this posting as entirely off-topic
> and inappropriate for the list.
>
> It's especially ironic coming from a state where the anti-tax nuts have
> destroyed the educational system and created an enormous budget deficit,
> resulting in such a legislative circus that the only natural response
> was to elect a clown as governor.
>
> Graham
From "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid at hotmail.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 17:48:36 +0000
Subject: RE: FOR SALE: Rare "Nubrex" grease gun for BN1 series cars
>From: "tom felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: tomfelts@earthlink.net
>To: "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid@hotmail.com>, healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: RE: FOR SALE: Rare "Nubrex" grease gun for BN1 series cars
>Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 07:19:20 -0500
>
>Damn Reid, you must have an endless supply of grease guns!:):)
>
>Tom
>
>
> > [Original Message]
> > From: Reid Trummel <editor_reid@hotmail.com>
> > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Date: 10/29/03 11:21:12 PM
> > Subject: FOR SALE: Rare "Nubrex" grease gun for BN1 series cars
> >
> > Please see:
> >
> > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2440138292
> >
> >
> > Reid Trummel
> > Portland, Oregon
> > 100, 100M, Bugeye, Ski-Master
_________________________________________________________________
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Service. Try it FREE for one month! http://join.msn.com/?page=dept/dialup
From "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid at hotmail.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 17:58:30 +0000
Subject: Re: UK Payments
Reid Trummel
"Any man who can drive safely while kissing a pretty girl is simply not
giving the kiss the attention it deserves." Albert Einstein
(Albert Einstein? "The" Albert Einstein? Really?)
>From: Richard Gordon <HealeyHundred@comcast.net>
>Reply-To: Richard Gordon <HealeyHundred@comcast.net>
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: UK Payments
>Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 06:40:29 -0700
>
>I have used a number of different ways to send payments to the UK depending
>on the desires of the seller and amount involved.
>
>1. Cash (disguise it as photos).
>2. PayPal
>3. Western Union you can send payments to almost anywhere in the world.
>(can be transacted at thousands of places including many grocery stores).
>4. Purchase AAA Travelers checks in pounds sterling, no fee and good rate
>of exchange...just sign them in both places and make them payable to the
>seller.
>5. The post office sells International money orders, but it takes them
>about 2-3 weeks to process the request and mail them.
>
>Good luck.
>Richard Gordon
_________________________________________________________________
Enjoy MSN 8 patented spam control and more with MSN 8 Dial-up Internet
Service. Try it FREE for one month! http://join.msn.com/?page=dept/dialup
From "Douglas W. Flagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 13:08:48 -0500
Subject: Re: Radiator Cap
Happy Healeying,
Doug
'56 BN2
________________________________________________________________
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 10:40:34 -0800 (PST)
Subject: BN7 Driver Value?
I would say that the car is a 10 footer. Interior is
new (leather) engine is fully rebuilt, trans is Smitty
5sp with original in crate, mechanically very sound,
older paint (but nice patina), some rally updates, new
wires and tires...
Any experience appreciated.
Dean BN7
__________________________________
Exclusive Video Premiere - Britney Spears
http://launch.yahoo.com/promos/britneyspears/
From =?iso-8859-1?q?Paul=20Baker?= <paulbaker51 at yahoo.co.uk>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 19:37:08 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: Re: Which Anti-Roll bar? continued
Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au> wrote:
Guys - believe it or not, basically - you are both right.
You actually need to be 'in the ballpark' before any text book theory on
racing suspension settings comes close to what happens in a production, road
going 40 year old car, with some 'give' in the chassis
One of the pages I bookmarked when I was trying to get rid of the understeer
in my healey a few years back was this page.
http://rogerkrausracing.com/overundr.html
Read the 'list' on this page carefully. Thats pretty much what you are
saying, isn't it Dave?
Now read the 'note' at the bottom - the 2nd last paragraph at the bottom of
the page. Thats exactly what you are saying, isn't it Alan?
????????????????????????????
So - how do you correct understeer in an understeering car?
Why does the note at the bottom contradict the chart?
>From my experience - the chart only works if you are already 'in the
ballpark'.
A standard healey understeers - just like almost every other production car.
Ask the average Healey racer what spring rate he runs in the front.
Here's a clue:
http://www.bighealey.co.uk/new%20healey/healey02/Healey%20front%20suspension%202.htm
So the question becomes - If a standard Healey is an understeering car - why
would you double or triple the standard front spring rate (ie stiffen the
front - go back to the chart!), if it's already understeering? Answer-
because - at around 300 and something lb rate standard front spring rates -
you aren't even in the right suburb - let alone the right ballpark. And at
450lbs - you still aren't in the park
And thats why a bigger (7/8in) front rollbar - on its own - will 'improve' a
road going standard suspension Healey - because it removes some of the body
roll on cornering - but doesn't affect the ride - and actually gets the car
'closer' to the ballpark (but still in the next suburb).
And thats probably why Dennis Welchs 'race spec' rollbars start at 1in and
go to 1 1/4in. A small increase in swaybar diameter yields a huge increase
in stiffness - eg going from 7/8 in to 1 1/8 is actually around 175%
increase in stiffness (as diameter increases, stiffness increases to the 4th
power)
My understeer problem was actually caused mainly by my detroit locker diff.
I put in a quaife, and went up to 600lb front springs and back to a heavier
front bar. Transformed the car. And think how much time I wasted fitting
lighter rollbars trying to 'soften' the front, to cure my understeer........
Weird, isn't it.
Hope that helps.
Best regards
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
IMPORTANT: This email is intended for the use of the individual
addressee(s) named above and may contain information that is
confidential, privileged or unsuitable for overly sensitive persons with
no sense of humour or irrational religious or environmental beliefs. If
you are not the intended recipient, any dissemination, distribution or
copying of this email is not authorised and would be deemed to be
both an annoyance, and an irritating social faux pas. Mate.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave & Marlene"
To: "Blue One Hundred"
Cc: ;
;
Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2003 10:04 PM
Subject: Re: Which Anti-Roll bar? continued
> Hi Alan,
>
> I don't know why we are not getting together on this.
> I can't address your experience with your particular car. If you can't
> throw out the back the front must be understeering (slipping first)
> Think how much better it might do by adding a rear bar. Oh well.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Dave Russell
>
> Blue One Hundred wrote:
> > I promise you, i can take turns a million times faster
> > in my BJ8 because of my rose jointed anti-roll bar.
> > Much less tire squeal, quicker turning - a tad less
> > understeer but not going fast enough to throw out the
> > back. The ride is bit tougher but I can take turns
> > now +20 mph from before without having to back off the
> > pedal.
> >
> > What you are saying would counteract my direct
> > experience with my car.
---------------------------------
Want to chat instantly with your online friends? Get the FREE Yahoo!Messenger
From Jnhorn at aol.com
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 14:37:42 EST
Subject: BJ8 brake problem
From WilKo at aol.com
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 14:44:23 EST
Subject: Re: Which Anti-Roll bar? continued
Rick
San Diego
In a message dated 10/30/03 11:39:27 AM, paulbaker51@yahoo.co.uk writes:
> The response to my question has been absolutely fantastic and really
> appreciated. I had not fully realised the dynamics of the suspension set up
on the
> car but your emails really have opened my eyes to the issues that I need to
> address of which the choice of anti-roll bar is but one part of the total
> equation.
From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 13:55:30 -0600
Subject: Looking for a BJ8 Brake Master Cylinder
Jack
From "Esko & Megan Cate" <enmcate at comcast.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 12:42:40 -0800
Subject: Fall drive
Esko
BJ7
From "Peter Linn" <greylinn at ozemail.com.au>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 06:54:23 +1000
Subject: BN1water pump
A couple of questions: Any reason for this intermittent leak from the pump -
or is it just RS? Secondly, the pump in the car has a grease nipple on the RH
side as well as the large, slotted head plug for lubircation. The replacement
pump does not. What lubricant should be used?
Thanks
Peter Linn
Brisbane
BN1 Ward Spl coupe
From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 21:08:18 +0000
Subject: Re: UK Payments
Almost any traveler's cheques from a reputable house in sterling will
also do.
IPeter Dzwig
Richard Gordon wrote:
> I have used a number of different ways to send payments to the UK
> depending on the desires of the seller and amount involved.
>
> 1. Cash (disguise it as photos).
> 2. PayPal
> 3. Western Union you can send payments to almost anywhere in the
> world. (can be transacted at thousands of places including many
> grocery stores).
> 4. Purchase AAA Travelers checks in pounds sterling, no fee and good
> rate of exchange...just sign them in both places and make them payable
> to the seller.
> 5. The post office sells International money orders, but it takes
> them about 2-3 weeks to process the request and mail them.
>
> Good luck.
> Richard Gordon
From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 16:34:15 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8 Brake Question - swollen hoses
CB
From "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 22:47:32 +0100
Subject: Re: Which Anti-Roll bar?
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
From WilKo at aol.com
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 16:54:00 EST
Subject: Re: Which Anti-Roll bar?
neener neener ; )
In a message dated 10/30/03 1:50:05 PM, j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl writes:
> As long as you don't change the
> construction of the car while you're driving, the CoG will stay where it is.
From "Bob Johnson" <robert.w.johnson at earthlink.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 17:27:03 -0500
Subject: Re: Can't blow my horn, first sequel
Bob
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: "'Bob Johnson'" <robert.w.johnson@earthlink.net>; "'healeys'"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 31, 2003 8:45 AM
Subject: RE: Can't blow my horn
> Hi Bob,
> As far as I can tell from your description the wire that goes up the
> steering column to the horn switch is shorted to ground, probably where
> it enters the stator tube at the front of the steering box. The harness
> which goes up the stator tube is normally joined, using bullet
> connectors and tubes, to the main harness at the front of the radiator.
> I would recommend that you try to disconnect the purple and black wire
> at that point and then check for shorts to ground in that wire in the
> stator tube harness.
> If there is a short you should carefully pry the horn button out by
> sliding a knife under the outside of the chrome horn button ring. DO NOT
> ATTEMPT TO UNDO THE TWO SLOT HEAD SCREWS UNDER THE BUTTON.
> If you still have the short to ground with the horn button removed you
> will probably have to remove the horn switch assembly to trace the
> problem.
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Bob Johnson
> Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2003 7:54 AM
> To: healeys
> Subject: Can't blow my horn
>
> List,
>
> Phase2 BJ8.
> The fuse in the horn circuit has blown about three times since spring.
> When I
> replaced the fuse, the horn blew until the fuse blew again at some
> random
> time. Last night when I replaced the fuse, the horn would not blow.
> Obviously,
> there is was a problem before, now it seems to be worse. I tested the
> purple
> wire for a circuit (dead short on ohmmeter). and circuit was there. Need
> to
> test Purple-black wire that goes to switch, but don't know how to get to
> it.
> What on the steering column do I have to remove? Or can I simply somehow
> simply remove the button? My Haynes manual is no help. Anyone have any
> other
> suggestions as to what to, or what is most probable cause of my problem?
>
> TIA,
>
> Bob Johnson
From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 17:39:26 -0500
Subject: RE: Can't blow my horn, first sequel
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Johnson [mailto:robert.w.johnson@earthlink.net]
Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2003 5:27 PM
To: Michael Salter; 'healeys'
Subject: Re: Can't blow my horn, first sequel
Slid knife under the button ring and removed button easily. Noticed that
Mike Said emphatically: DO NOT
> ATTEMPT TO UNDO THE TWO SLOT HEAD SCREWS UNDER THE BUTTON. Noticed
that
one of the screws was loose, did not ry to removeit, instead figured it
should be tightened. It won't tighten. Sounds like my problem might be
right
here. How much trouble am I going to be in when I take the three screws
loose that seem to be holding the steering wheel in place?
Bob
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: "'Bob Johnson'" <robert.w.johnson@earthlink.net>; "'healeys'"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 31, 2003 8:45 AM
Subject: RE: Can't blow my horn
> Hi Bob,
> As far as I can tell from your description the wire that goes up the
> steering column to the horn switch is shorted to ground, probably
where
> it enters the stator tube at the front of the steering box. The
harness
> which goes up the stator tube is normally joined, using bullet
> connectors and tubes, to the main harness at the front of the
radiator.
> I would recommend that you try to disconnect the purple and black wire
> at that point and then check for shorts to ground in that wire in the
> stator tube harness.
> If there is a short you should carefully pry the horn button out by
> sliding a knife under the outside of the chrome horn button ring. DO
NOT
> ATTEMPT TO UNDO THE TWO SLOT HEAD SCREWS UNDER THE BUTTON.
> If you still have the short to ground with the horn button removed you
> will probably have to remove the horn switch assembly to trace the
> problem.
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Bob Johnson
> Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2003 7:54 AM
> To: healeys
> Subject: Can't blow my horn
>
> List,
>
> Phase2 BJ8.
> The fuse in the horn circuit has blown about three times since spring.
> When I
> replaced the fuse, the horn blew until the fuse blew again at some
> random
> time. Last night when I replaced the fuse, the horn would not blow.
> Obviously,
> there is was a problem before, now it seems to be worse. I tested the
> purple
> wire for a circuit (dead short on ohmmeter). and circuit was there.
Need
> to
> test Purple-black wire that goes to switch, but don't know how to get
to
> it.
> What on the steering column do I have to remove? Or can I simply
somehow
> simply remove the button? My Haynes manual is no help. Anyone have any
> other
> suggestions as to what to, or what is most probable cause of my
problem?
>
> TIA,
>
> Bob Johnson
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 17:33:39 -0600
Subject: Re: Radiator Cap
From "PETER DAVIS" <paddymck at peoplepc.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 15:34:29 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Which Anti-Roll bar?
I am using a Denis Welch 7/8in bar with rubber bushings
on the links but I got them to send the harder, red
polyureathane bushings for the chassis brackets. It
has made a big difference to the cornering and keeps it
very flat, helping to stop the rear inside wheel
lifting off in tight corners at speed.
regards,
Peter Davis
On Wed, 29 Oct 2003 20:00:01 +0000 (GMT), Paul Baker
wrote:
>
> I'm planning to improve the front suspension on the
BJ8
> I use for road and track use. The car currently has a
> standard anti-roll bar with rather tired rubber bushes
> and what appear uprated shocks but otherwise a
standard
> setup. Denis Welch offers 7/8" anti-roll bars with
> either rose jointed links or rubber jointed links.
>
> Has anyone tried these or similar products and what
are
> the benefits and drawbacks.
>
> Paul
>
> 66 BJ8 rally spec
> 67 BJ8
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Want to chat instantly with your online friends? Get
> the FREE Yahoo!Messenger
>
>
________________________________________________
PeoplePC: It's for people. And it's just smart.
http://www.peoplepc.com
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 17:36:51 -0600
Subject: Re: BN7 Driver Value?
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 16:46:52 -0700
Subject: Re: Which Anti-Roll bar? continued
Thanks very much.
I just learned of another topic to NOT get into, along with politics &
religion. Too much opportunity for misunderstanding unless face to face.
Regards,
Dave Russell
Chris Dimmock wrote:
> Guys - believe it or not, basically - you are both right.
>
> You actually need to be 'in the ballpark' before any text book theory on
> racing suspension settings comes close to what happens in a production, road
> going 40 year old car, with some 'give' in the chassis
From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 19:00:45 -0500
Subject: Re: BN7 Driver Value?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "healey (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2003 1:40 PM
Subject: BN7 Driver Value?
> With half of California on fire and recent auction
> sale records, I am re-motivated to update my Healey
> insurance. This is a declared value policy with a
> current limit of $10,500. Clearly not enough to even
> find a rusty project car.
>
> I would say that the car is a 10 footer. Interior is
> new (leather) engine is fully rebuilt, trans is Smitty
> 5sp with original in crate, mechanically very sound,
> older paint (but nice patina), some rally updates, new
> wires and tires...
>
> Any experience appreciated.
>
> Dean BN7
From Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 19:09:14 -0500
Subject: now rear (panhard rod)
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 19:16:18 EST
Subject: Re: Which Anti-Roll bar? continued
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
From GSFuqua1 at aol.com
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 19:23:34 EST
Subject: Original Number Plate Found
Made in England
Please Quote
Car # BN1L 144642
Engine # 1B 139318
The Austin Motor Co. LTD
Longbridge
Birmingham England
This must be off a car that was originally being worked on at the "Infamous"
Healey Masters out in California. My TR 3B was supposed to be under
restoration there when Randy Cook (the owner) disappeared. This part was
obviously
mixed up with mine in the subsequent scramble for what was left.
If someone knows the owner of this car or the owner is on the list please
contact me and I will post the plate to the owner.
Gary Fuqua
Branson, Missouri
Survivor of Healey Masters and now doing it myself!!!
From WilKo at aol.com
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 19:26:22 EST
Subject: Re: now rear (panhard rod)
Rick
San Diego
In a message dated 10/30/03 4:16:24 PM, stjepkem@optonline.net writes:
> Hi everybbody now lets go to the rear end, the panhard rod whats its job
> and how to beef it up. Thanks Steve 58bn4
From Chris Dimmock <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 11:21:31 +1100
Subject: Re: Which Anti-Roll bar? continued
The Detroit Locker is a fantastic diff - provided the road is dry, and you
can set up a corner where the car is pointed in a straight line at the exit
when you get hard on the power. Under those dconditions - nothing beats a
detroit locker out of a corner - and thats where the advantage is.
But once you get hard on the power with a detroit locker - there are only 2
things you need to know.
Firstly - you can't get off the power; or the rear of the car will just
snap, and it moves (literally jumps) 2- 3 feet to the left - if the road is
dry. If the road is wet - and you lift off - guess what happens?
Secondly, the steering wheel is redundant while ever the power is hard on -
the back of the car car will just 'push' in the direction the car is
pointing, with 100% power equally applied to both rear wheels. So
irrespective of where you turn the wheel - as the 'locker' locks both rear
wheels, like a welded diff - the rear of the car just keeps pushing forward.
The reason is Detroit locker supplies torque to the wheel that is rotating
the slowest - normally, when you are cornering, that is the inside wheel.
Consequently, the inner rear tyre drives the front of the car toward the
outside of the corner, causing corner exit understeer. So, on a tight
corner, you have to go very deep, and very late, into a corner, turn, point
it out of the corner - and then - when everything is lined up in a straight
line- committ to full power, and understeer on a straight line, staying on
teh black stuff.. Otherwise- you understeer off the exit, off the track.
On the other hand, the quaife diff - a torque biasing designe - sends more
torque to the more heavily laden outside wheel. This is the opposite to the
Detroit Locker, and it gives the car a power-on over-steering tendency.
Typically - the quaife only gives you about 65% 'lockup' - rather than the
100% lockup of the detroit locker. Quaifes have a known problem where one
wheel is in the air - but thats less of a problem if you stay off ripple
strips - and makes it a million times safer on a public road than the
Detroit Locker.
If you have ever driven a car with a detroit locker, in the wet, and lifted
off the power - you'll understand why I went to a quaiffe. I know many
drivers who won't even drive a car with a Detroit locker - a detroit locker
can be 'disconcerting' in the dry until you get used to it- and just
diabolical in the wet no matter how long you've used it.
But in the dry, on full power, on a 'open' track, without really tight
turns - a detroit locker rocks!
Hope that helps.
best regards
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
IMPORTANT: This email is intended for the use of the individual
addressee(s) named above and may contain information that is
confidential, privileged or unsuitable for overly sensitive persons with
no sense of humour or irrational religious or environmental beliefs. If
you are not the intended recipient, any dissemination, distribution or
copying of this email is not authorised and would be deemed to be
both an annoyance, and an irritating social faux pas. Mate.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Baker" <paulbaker51@yahoo.co.uk>
To: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 31, 2003 6:37 AM
Subject: Re: Which Anti-Roll bar? continued
> The response to my question has been absolutely fantastic and really
appreciated. I had not fully realised the dynamics of the suspension set up
on the car but your emails really have opened my eyes to the issues that I
need to address of which the choice of anti-roll bar is but one part of the
total equation.
>
> I have a supplementary and related question - Chris - you said that
changing your diff, plus the other front suspension changes drastically
improved the handling of the car. I don't understand the impact the diff
will have on the handling of the car?
>
> Paul
>
>
>
> Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au> wrote:
> Guys - believe it or not, basically - you are both right.
>
> You actually need to be 'in the ballpark' before any text book theory on
> racing suspension settings comes close to what happens in a production,
road
> going 40 year old car, with some 'give' in the chassis
>
> One of the pages I bookmarked when I was trying to get rid of the
understeer
> in my healey a few years back was this page.
>
> http://rogerkrausracing.com/overundr.html
>
> Read the 'list' on this page carefully. Thats pretty much what you are
> saying, isn't it Dave?
>
> Now read the 'note' at the bottom - the 2nd last paragraph at the bottom
of
> the page. Thats exactly what you are saying, isn't it Alan?
>
> ????????????????????????????
>
> So - how do you correct understeer in an understeering car?
>
> Why does the note at the bottom contradict the chart?
>
> From my experience - the chart only works if you are already 'in the
> ballpark'.
>
> A standard healey understeers - just like almost every other production
car.
>
> Ask the average Healey racer what spring rate he runs in the front.
>
> Here's a clue:
>
http://www.bighealey.co.uk/new%20healey/healey02/Healey%20front%20suspension%202.htm
>
> So the question becomes - If a standard Healey is an understeering car -
why
> would you double or triple the standard front spring rate (ie stiffen the
> front - go back to the chart!), if it's already understeering? Answer-
> because - at around 300 and something lb rate standard front spring
rates -
> you aren't even in the right suburb - let alone the right ballpark. And at
> 450lbs - you still aren't in the park
>
> And thats why a bigger (7/8in) front rollbar - on its own - will 'improve'
a
> road going standard suspension Healey - because it removes some of the
body
> roll on cornering - but doesn't affect the ride - and actually gets the
car
> 'closer' to the ballpark (but still in the next suburb).
>
> And thats probably why Dennis Welchs 'race spec' rollbars start at 1in and
> go to 1 1/4in. A small increase in swaybar diameter yields a huge increase
> in stiffness - eg going from 7/8 in to 1 1/8 is actually around 175%
> increase in stiffness (as diameter increases, stiffness increases to the
4th
> power)
>
> My understeer problem was actually caused mainly by my detroit locker
diff.
> I put in a quaife, and went up to 600lb front springs and back to a
heavier
> front bar. Transformed the car. And think how much time I wasted fitting
> lighter rollbars trying to 'soften' the front, to cure my
understeer........
>
> Weird, isn't it.
>
> Hope that helps.
>
> Best regards
>
> Chris
> ______________________________________
>
> Chris Dimmock
> Sydney Australia
>
> http://www.myaustinhealey.com
> ______________________________________
>
> IMPORTANT: This email is intended for the use of the individual
> addressee(s) named above and may contain information that is
> confidential, privileged or unsuitable for overly sensitive persons with
> no sense of humour or irrational religious or environmental beliefs. If
> you are not the intended recipient, any dissemination, distribution or
> copying of this email is not authorised and would be deemed to be
> both an annoyance, and an irritating social faux pas. Mate.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dave & Marlene"
> To: "Blue One Hundred"
> Cc: ;
> ;
> Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2003 10:04 PM
> Subject: Re: Which Anti-Roll bar? continued
>
>
> > Hi Alan,
> >
> > I don't know why we are not getting together on this.
> > I can't address your experience with your particular car. If you can't
> > throw out the back the front must be understeering (slipping first)
> > Think how much better it might do by adding a rear bar. Oh well.
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Dave Russell
> >
> > Blue One Hundred wrote:
>
> > > I promise you, i can take turns a million times faster
> > > in my BJ8 because of my rose jointed anti-roll bar.
> > > Much less tire squeal, quicker turning - a tad less
> > > understeer but not going fast enough to throw out the
> > > back. The ride is bit tougher but I can take turns
> > > now +20 mph from before without having to back off the
> > > pedal.
> > >
> > > What you are saying would counteract my direct
> > > experience with my car.
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 17:56:41 -0700
Subject: Re: BN7 Driver Value?
They usually have some restrictions on mileage driven, where garaged, etc.
I personally have MY BN2 insured with American Collectors. Full coverage
including zero deductible, & for AGREED value. Premiums are about $220
per year for $35,000 coverage.
Beware - there is a subtle but important difference between "stated
value" & 'agreed value". Agreed means that if the car is totalled the
pay the agreed amount, no questions asked. Stated value means that they
start with that value & haggle down from there, claiming depreciation &
all sorts of payoff lowering items.
Here are three that you could investigate.
http://www.americancollectorsins.com/
http://www.hagerty.com/
http://www.jctaylor.com/
Dave Russell
BN2
Dean Caccavo wrote:
> With half of California on fire and recent auction
> sale records, I am re-motivated to update my Healey
> insurance. This is a declared value policy with a
> current limit of $10,500. Clearly not enough to even
> find a rusty project car.
>
> I would say that the car is a 10 footer. Interior is
> new (leather) engine is fully rebuilt, trans is Smitty
> 5sp with original in crate, mechanically very sound,
> older paint (but nice patina), some rally updates, new
> wires and tires...
>
> Any experience appreciated.
>
> Dean BN7
From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 17:01:19 -0800
Subject: Finicky over drive, RE: Fall drive
You touch on an interesting topic with the finicky over drive. Sounds like
your describing the OD in my BN7, the way it will sometimes in-gauge, and
sometimes not.
Anyone on the list have ideas for diagnosing an OD that sometimes will
in-gauge, sometimes not, and sometimes drop out of OD?
Cheers,
Frank Golding
1960 BN7 # 10610
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Esko & Megan Cate
Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2003 12:43 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Fall drive
In the Northwest, it is not always raining. Took the BJ7 out for a
drive in the crisp air this week, wind in my hair (what is left of it).
Down the local freeway, out east a bit and back. Great! Tried the
finiky OD and it was nice when it kicked in (about a third of the time).
Hey, and the heater was even putting out some heat. Enjoined taking
that loop exit from Hwy 167 to Hwy 18, with the SUV following. It
starts as an easy 45 MPH curve but hooks severely at the end. Held the
starting speed and the Healey just sort of squatted as it took the last
of the curve. Wow.
Esko
BJ7
From "Bob Slater" <rob at gto.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 20:15:03 -0600
Subject: Re Healey for sale
http://home.golden.net/~bjslater/index.html
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 12:24:23 +1100
Subject: RE: now rear (panhard rod)
I can't resist trying to educate you blokes about Healey and Austin-Healeys.
Yes that humble little steel rod at the back of most of our cars was indeed
named after some bloke named Panhard. However there is more to it than that as
we owe a lot to the likes of Rene Panhard. It was his idea of using such a rod
to locate the axle on his own car way back at the dawn of the motoring age.
Rene Panhard and his partner Emile Lavassor were the first in France to
manufacturer an internal combustion engine way back in 1876. They built their
first car in 1890 and the company continued in business through to the 1960s
when it was purchased by Citroen. It ceased trading in 1967.
Panhard and Lavassor were also keen motor sport enthusiasts and in 1934 a
Panhard held the class world speed record with 214kph. Panhards were also very
active at Le Mans.
With the exception of electronics there is very little that's new in motor
vehicles.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
-----Original Message-----
From: WilKo@aol.com [mailto:WilKo@aol.com]
Sent: Friday, October 31, 2003 11:26 AM
To: stjepkem@optonline.net; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: now rear (panhard rod)
Now there's a question.
The panhard rod (named for a fellow named Panhard) hold the rear axle in the
center of the car. that's all. Now. Being that one end is hooked to the frame,
and the other hooked to the axle, the rod acts different in left and right
cornering. John Chatham had designed a vertical track and ran a bearing on the
back his differential in the old DD300 ex-works car. That way the axle had
symetrical travel up and down and for each wheel with no effect on the
travel.
To stabilize roll at the rear of the car, you want to use a rear antiroll
bar. It's the same as for the front and will help balance the roll front to
back.
Rick
San Diego
In a message dated 10/30/03 4:16:24 PM, stjepkem@optonline.net writes:
> Hi everybbody now lets go to the rear end, the panhard rod whats its job
> and how to beef it up. Thanks Steve 58bn4
**********************************************************************
This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain
privileged information or confidential information or both. If you
are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender.
**********************************************************************
From "Bob Slater" <rob at gto.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 20:56:53 -0600
Subject: Re: Healey for sale
http://home.golden.net/~bjslater/index.html
From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 20:54:56 -0500
Subject: RE: Fall drive
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
Amateur Radio AI2Q
http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
.-.-.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Esko & Megan Cate
Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2003 3:43 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Fall drive
In the Northwest, it is not always raining. Took the BJ7 out for a
drive in the crisp air this week, wind in my hair (what is left of it).
Down the local freeway, out east a bit and back. Great! Tried the
finiky OD and it was nice when it kicked in (about a third of the time).
Hey, and the heater was even putting out some heat. Enjoined taking
that loop exit from Hwy 167 to Hwy 18, with the SUV following. It
starts as an easy 45 MPH curve but hooks severely at the end. Held the
starting speed and the Healey just sort of squatted as it took the last
of the curve. Wow.
Esko
BJ7
From "Bob Slater" <rob at gto.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 21:02:45 -0600
Subject: Re: Healey for sale
http://home.golden.net/~bjslater/index.html
From "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson at thicko.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 20:26:35 -0600
Subject: Sprite Fifty Finale Race 2008
I've been toying with the idea of creating a European/American 50th
Anniversary Challenge Race Series for the Sprite's 50th Anniversary in 2008.
(Think something similar to what we did in the 1990 Healey Challenge, where
a number of cars were shipped over to race a season here.)
The logistics of this are huge, but not insurmountable... and we have 4.5
years to get our poop grouped on this. If there's interest, I will begin
lobbying every major US vintage organization to designate the Sprite as the
featured marque for that year's event. If you think about it, Sprites might
have won more races over the years than any other car... can you think of
any that might have won more? They're still racing current era spec...45
years after their creation.
My initial vision would be "ala Team Thicko"... inclusive, rather than
exclusive... creating an unlimited class for current era SCCA stuff, and any
of the highly modified Sprites in Europe, as well as 1275, 1098, and 948
vintage classes. Not sure, but perhaps even include Midgets in the mix as
well... as they're at least fraternal if not near-identical twins to
Sprites. Including everyone and everything might be a tad optimistic... hard
to say at this point... but its open for discussion.
I suspect with the "rabid" Spridgeteers here in the US and Canada, along
with our friends across the Atlantic, that we'd have plenty of volunteer
help to pull this off. There are so many things to concern yourself in an
undertaking such as this. For instance, shipping of cars. Costs, insurance,
logistics, etc. In 1990 we had enthusiasts meet the ships as the cargo
containers were unloaded, and also help supervise the transport. Also,
volunteers to help trailer the cars between events is a possibility, vs. the
cost of having a Passport, or similar outfit truck the cars from venue to
venue. I'm not sure, as of yet, if the Sprite racers in the UK and elsewhere
(you too Gigante in OZ) have the financial wherewithal to assume the costs
of shipping a car, or the ability to take suffient time off of work to make
a number of events.
One mistake I've seen made all to often in events like these, is an attempt
to try to squeeze the restorers, or Spridget parts suppliers, or race shops
for large amounts of sponsorship. The reality is, many, if not most of these
companies aren't raking in piles of dough. I'd rather seek sponsorship on a
grander scale if possible... but, who knows? Specualtion is premature at
this point.
I'd like to defray the racer's costs as much as possible, in every way, as
this will not be an inexpensive summer. One thing I've considered is to take
advantage of the concentration of events in the June/July timeframe. Also to
consider, are tracks that themselves are a draw. In June/July there are
events at Blackhawk, Mid Ohio, Mosport, Virginia, Road America... all within
say a 10 to 14 hour radius... so transportation time and costs are more
reasonable. I don't, however, rule out adding events on the east or west
coast.
Cars will need storage between events. Racers always need crew. Some will
need places to stay, etc.
Perhaps some would rather buy a car in the states, race it the season, and
sell it... which might create a market for those that want to prepare cars
for the series. Also, in the 4.5 years from now, some of us (not me pal)
will no longer be racing, and there will be fresh faces in our ranks. It's
possible that some racing other cars currently might want to join us.
If my buddy John Sprinzel can remain warmer than room temperature til then,
I'd love to have him as Grand Marshall. Any other famous Sprite drivers
would certainly be welcome and recognized for their contribution to the
great history of Sprite racing.
Just tossing out the idea right now. Whattya think?
WST
Flounder
Team Thicko
From WilKo at aol.com
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 21:56:47 EST
Subject: Re: Finicky over drive, RE: Fall drive
Rick
San Diego
In a message dated 10/30/03 5:06:35 PM, frank.golding@plantronics.com writes:
> Anyone on the list have ideas for diagnosing an OD that sometimes will
> in-gauge, sometimes not, and sometimes drop out of OD?
From "Brad Weldon 55BN1" <healey at bradw.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 19:19:44 -0800
Subject: Re: BJ8 Brake Question - swollen hoses
Brad Weldon
55 BN1
Webmaster, Austin Healey Club USA
http://www.healey.org/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
Cc: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2003 1:34 PM
Subject: Re: BJ8 Brake Question - swollen hoses
> Having encountered this in the past with my car, the question begs; is
> this common to all cars, just British cars or just Healeys? Why are the
> hoses not compatible with either DOT or Silicone fluids?
>
> CB
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 21:19:33 -0600
Subject: Re: now rear (panhard rod)
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 22:26:30 EST
Subject: Re: BN7 Driver Value?
right from the hip -- $22,500>>
I like the sound of that. Has that feeling of spurious accuracy, and much
more definite than the right answer, which is "somewhere between $20,000 and
$25,000."
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Editor, Classic Motorsports Magazine
owner of a BN7 currently insured for agreed value of $25,000.
From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 22:34:06 EST
Subject: Re: now rear (panhard rod)
From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 22:17:28 EST
Subject: Re: Noise of a fan Hitting Paper--Solved
* * * * * * * * * *
Tech Talk by Norman Nock $30.00 + $4.00 S H . SOLD over 1600 copies
A Collection on my tech. articles, that have been in various magazines along
with factory and Lucas bulletins about how things work. In easy to understand
writing. 221 pages Call me for more information at 209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
British Car Specialists 2060 N Wilson Way Stockton CA 95205
From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at comcast.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 20:27:54 -0800
Subject: more fall drive
I'll take our fall and summer in the Pacific Northwest to any place I've
ever lived.
(Please, I know this has been covered before, so please just reflect on
how your part of the globe has the best weather for driving) ;-D
I Erbs BT7 59
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 22:49:49 -0700
Subject: Re: BN7 Driver Value?
Sorry. I misread, thought that you were inquiring about insurance.
Disregard message, getting senile I guess.
Dave Russell
Dave & Marlene wrote:
> Dean,
> You could try some of the specialty insurance companies. They will
> insure classic & specialty cars for very reasonable rates.
>
> They usually have some restrictions on mileage driven, where garaged, etc.
>
> I personally have MY BN2 insured with American Collectors. Full coverage
> including zero deductible, & for AGREED value. Premiums are about $220
> per year for $35,000 coverage.
>
> Beware - there is a subtle but important difference between "stated
> value" & 'agreed value". Agreed means that if the car is totalled the
> pay the agreed amount, no questions asked. Stated value means that they
> start with that value & haggle down from there, claiming depreciation &
> all sorts of payoff lowering items.
>
> Here are three that you could investigate.
>
> http://www.americancollectorsins.com/
> http://www.hagerty.com/
> http://www.jctaylor.com/
>
> Dave Russell
> BN2
>
> Dean Caccavo wrote:
>
>> With half of California on fire and recent auction
>> sale records, I am re-motivated to update my Healey
>> insurance. This is a declared value policy with a
>> current limit of $10,500. Clearly not enough to even
>> find a rusty project car.
>> I would say that the car is a 10 footer. Interior is
>> new (leather) engine is fully rebuilt, trans is Smitty
>> 5sp with original in crate, mechanically very sound,
>> older paint (but nice patina), some rally updates, new
>> wires and tires...
>>
>> Any experience appreciated.
>>
>> Dean BN7
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 23:46:57 -0700
Subject: Re: now rear (panhard rod)
Seriously,
It keeps the rear axle assembly somewhat centered in the frame. On some
US race cars of the last 50 years, A Watt's linkage was used. A more
complex pair of rods, pivots & a center bearing on the axle housing.
Probably the only "beefing" needed is to replace the rubber bushings
with polyurethane.
I hope this is not inflammable.
Dave Russell
BN2
Steven Tjepkema wrote:
> Hi everybbody now lets go to the rear end, the panhard rod whats its
> job and how to beef it up. Thanks Steve
> 58bn4
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 00:07:14 -0700
Subject: Re: BJ8 Brake Question - swollen hoses
I've had no swollen hoses on any car since 1950. I recently changed the
ORIGINAL hoses on my BN2 & there was not a thing wrong with them except
for some small weather checks.
Dave Russell
BN2
Brad Weldon 55BN1 wrote:
> I'd say all cars. I've had swollen brake hoses in a 90 Jeep and a 86 Honda.
> It happens.
>
> Brad Weldon
> 55 BN1
> Webmaster, Austin Healey Club USA
> http://www.healey.org/
From "Diann Jones" <diann.lindsay at xtra.co.nz>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 21:20:06 +1300
Subject: Accelerator pedal stop bracket BJ7 & BJ8 RHD
Cheers
Diann
From "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 10:17:22 +0100
Subject: Re: Which Anti-Roll bar?
Regards,
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
From Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 05:07:18 -0800
Subject: Re: Which Anti-Roll bar? continued
Thanks for sharing the link. This is all very interesting. One thought
comes to mind is that to test each setup
one needs to bring the car to the bitter edge of grip or beyond. I
mean how else would I verify? On a closed circuit this
would be fine as long as there are sufficient run out areas before
mating with a wall (grin).
After reading all this as a street car (well back roads spirited) driver
I conclude that careful attention to tires,
tire pressure and the addition of a mild front sway bar is as far as I
would go. Perhaps the addition of a rear sway bar
but probably not uprated shocks. Playing with camber means changing out
to adjustable trunions or a switch to a
different shock, something that the average Joe would probably not do.
In conclusion, most of the Healey community will probably not be found
sliding off the road to see if that front sway bar
"had the desired effect" then going back and playing camber yada, yada
adjustment games, rinse repeat. So for most of us
this is all academic once past the point of the spirited cornering zone
and into the serious/fatal drift arena. Frankly non racers
usually go there only once followed by a long layover at the local panel
beaters.
On the other hand put me on a circuit in a consequence free environment
and a load of cash to do the rinse repeat and
I am sound as a pound baby. (sorta borrowed from Austin Powers)
very educational and cool
Tracy
Chris Dimmock wrote:
>Guys - believe it or not, basically - you are both right.
>
>You actually need to be 'in the ballpark' before any text book theory on
>racing suspension settings comes close to what happens in a production, road
>going 40 year old car, with some 'give' in the chassis
>
>One of the pages I bookmarked when I was trying to get rid of the understeer
>in my healey a few years back was this page.
>
>http://rogerkrausracing.com/overundr.html
>
>Read the 'list' on this page carefully. Thats pretty much what you are
>saying, isn't it Dave?
>
>Now read the 'note' at the bottom - the 2nd last paragraph at the bottom of
>the page. Thats exactly what you are saying, isn't it Alan?
>
>????????????????????????????
>
>So - how do you correct understeer in an understeering car?
>
>Why does the note at the bottom contradict the chart?
>
>>From my experience - the chart only works if you are already 'in the
>ballpark'.
>
>A standard healey understeers - just like almost every other production car.
>
>Ask the average Healey racer what spring rate he runs in the front.
>
>Here's a clue:
>http://www.bighealey.co.uk/new%20healey/healey02/Healey%20front%20suspension%202.htm
>
>So the question becomes - If a standard Healey is an understeering car - why
>would you double or triple the standard front spring rate (ie stiffen the
>front - go back to the chart!), if it's already understeering? Answer-
>because - at around 300 and something lb rate standard front spring rates -
>you aren't even in the right suburb - let alone the right ballpark. And at
>450lbs - you still aren't in the park
>
>And thats why a bigger (7/8in) front rollbar - on its own - will 'improve' a
>road going standard suspension Healey - because it removes some of the body
>roll on cornering - but doesn't affect the ride - and actually gets the car
>'closer' to the ballpark (but still in the next suburb).
>
>And thats probably why Dennis Welchs 'race spec' rollbars start at 1in and
>go to 1 1/4in. A small increase in swaybar diameter yields a huge increase
>in stiffness - eg going from 7/8 in to 1 1/8 is actually around 175%
>increase in stiffness (as diameter increases, stiffness increases to the 4th
>power)
>
>My understeer problem was actually caused mainly by my detroit locker diff.
>I put in a quaife, and went up to 600lb front springs and back to a heavier
>front bar. Transformed the car. And think how much time I wasted fitting
>lighter rollbars trying to 'soften' the front, to cure my understeer........
>
>Weird, isn't it.
>
>Hope that helps.
>
>Best regards
>
>Chris
>______________________________________
>
>Chris Dimmock
>Sydney Australia
>
>http://www.myaustinhealey.com
>______________________________________
>
>IMPORTANT: This email is intended for the use of the individual
>addressee(s) named above and may contain information that is
>confidential, privileged or unsuitable for overly sensitive persons with
>no sense of humour or irrational religious or environmental beliefs. If
>you are not the intended recipient, any dissemination, distribution or
>copying of this email is not authorised and would be deemed to be
>both an annoyance, and an irritating social faux pas. Mate.
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
>To: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
>Cc: <WilKo@aol.com>; <paulbaker51@yahoo.co.uk>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2003 10:04 PM
>Subject: Re: Which Anti-Roll bar? continued
>
>
>
>
>>Hi Alan,
>>
>>I don't know why we are not getting together on this.
>>I can't address your experience with your particular car. If you can't
>>throw out the back the front must be understeering (slipping first)
>>Think how much better it might do by adding a rear bar. Oh well.
>>
>>Cheers,
>>
>>Dave Russell
>>
>>Blue One Hundred wrote:
>>
>>
>
>
>
>>>I promise you, i can take turns a million times faster
>>>in my BJ8 because of my rose jointed anti-roll bar.
>>>Much less tire squeal, quicker turning - a tad less
>>>understeer but not going fast enough to throw out the
>>>back. The ride is bit tougher but I can take turns
>>>now +20 mph from before without having to back off the
>>>pedal.
>>>
>>>What you are saying would counteract my direct
>>>experience with my car.
>>>
>>>
>
>***
From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding@plantronics.com>
To: "'Esko & Megan Cate'" <enmcate@comcast.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 07:35:58 -0700
Subject: Finicky over drive, RE: Fall drive
> Esko & List,
>
> You touch on an interesting topic with the finicky over drive. Sounds
like
> your describing the OD in my BN7, the way it will sometimes in-gauge, and
> sometimes not.
>
> Anyone on the list have ideas for diagnosing an OD that sometimes will
> in-gauge, sometimes not, and sometimes drop out of OD?
>
> Cheers,
>
> Frank Golding
> 1960 BN7 # 10610
From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding@plantronics.com>
To: "'Esko & Megan Cate'" <enmcate@comcast.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 09:19:00 -0500
Subject: RE: Which Anti-Roll bar? continued
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Tracy Drummond
Sent: Friday, October 31, 2003 8:07 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Which Anti-Roll bar? continued
Chris,
Thanks for sharing the link. This is all very interesting. One thought
comes to mind is that to test each setup
one needs to bring the car to the bitter edge of grip or beyond. I
mean how else would I verify? On a closed circuit this
would be fine as long as there are sufficient run out areas before
mating with a wall (grin).
After reading all this as a street car (well back roads spirited) driver
I conclude that careful attention to tires,
tire pressure and the addition of a mild front sway bar is as far as I
would go. Perhaps the addition of a rear sway bar
but probably not uprated shocks. Playing with camber means changing out
to adjustable trunions or a switch to a
different shock, something that the average Joe would probably not do.
In conclusion, most of the Healey community will probably not be found
sliding off the road to see if that front sway bar
"had the desired effect" then going back and playing camber yada, yada
adjustment games, rinse repeat. So for most of us
this is all academic once past the point of the spirited cornering zone
and into the serious/fatal drift arena. Frankly non racers
usually go there only once followed by a long layover at the local panel
beaters.
On the other hand put me on a circuit in a consequence free environment
and a load of cash to do the rinse repeat and
I am sound as a pound baby. (sorta borrowed from Austin Powers)
very educational and cool
Tracy
Chris Dimmock wrote:
>Guys - believe it or not, basically - you are both right.
>
>You actually need to be 'in the ballpark' before any text book theory
on
>racing suspension settings comes close to what happens in a production,
road
>going 40 year old car, with some 'give' in the chassis
>
>One of the pages I bookmarked when I was trying to get rid of the
understeer
>in my healey a few years back was this page.
>
>http://rogerkrausracing.com/overundr.html
>
>Read the 'list' on this page carefully. Thats pretty much what you are
>saying, isn't it Dave?
>
>Now read the 'note' at the bottom - the 2nd last paragraph at the
bottom of
>the page. Thats exactly what you are saying, isn't it Alan?
>
>????????????????????????????
>
>So - how do you correct understeer in an understeering car?
>
>Why does the note at the bottom contradict the chart?
>
>>From my experience - the chart only works if you are already 'in the
>ballpark'.
>
>A standard healey understeers - just like almost every other production
car.
>
>Ask the average Healey racer what spring rate he runs in the front.
>
>Here's a clue:
>http://www.bighealey.co.uk/new%20healey/healey02/Healey%20front%20suspe
nsion%202.htm
>
>So the question becomes - If a standard Healey is an understeering car
- why
>would you double or triple the standard front spring rate (ie stiffen
the
>front - go back to the chart!), if it's already understeering? Answer-
>because - at around 300 and something lb rate standard front spring
rates -
>you aren't even in the right suburb - let alone the right ballpark. And
at
>450lbs - you still aren't in the park
>
>And thats why a bigger (7/8in) front rollbar - on its own - will
'improve' a
>road going standard suspension Healey - because it removes some of the
body
>roll on cornering - but doesn't affect the ride - and actually gets the
car
>'closer' to the ballpark (but still in the next suburb).
>
>And thats probably why Dennis Welchs 'race spec' rollbars start at 1in
and
>go to 1 1/4in. A small increase in swaybar diameter yields a huge
increase
>in stiffness - eg going from 7/8 in to 1 1/8 is actually around 175%
>increase in stiffness (as diameter increases, stiffness increases to
the 4th
>power)
>
>My understeer problem was actually caused mainly by my detroit locker
diff.
>I put in a quaife, and went up to 600lb front springs and back to a
heavier
>front bar. Transformed the car. And think how much time I wasted
fitting
>lighter rollbars trying to 'soften' the front, to cure my
understeer........
>
>Weird, isn't it.
>
>Hope that helps.
>
>Best regards
>
>Chris
>______________________________________
>
>Chris Dimmock
>Sydney Australia
>
>http://www.myaustinhealey.com
>______________________________________
>
>IMPORTANT: This email is intended for the use of the individual
>addressee(s) named above and may contain information that is
>confidential, privileged or unsuitable for overly sensitive persons
with
>no sense of humour or irrational religious or environmental beliefs. If
>you are not the intended recipient, any dissemination, distribution or
>copying of this email is not authorised and would be deemed to be
>both an annoyance, and an irritating social faux pas. Mate.
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
>To: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
>Cc: <WilKo@aol.com>; <paulbaker51@yahoo.co.uk>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2003 10:04 PM
>Subject: Re: Which Anti-Roll bar? continued
>
>
>
>
>>Hi Alan,
>>
>>I don't know why we are not getting together on this.
>>I can't address your experience with your particular car. If you can't
>>throw out the back the front must be understeering (slipping first)
>>Think how much better it might do by adding a rear bar. Oh well.
>>
>>Cheers,
>>
>>Dave Russell
>>
>>Blue One Hundred wrote:
>>
>>
>
>
>
>>>I promise you, i can take turns a million times faster
>>>in my BJ8 because of my rose jointed anti-roll bar.
>>>Much less tire squeal, quicker turning - a tad less
>>>understeer but not going fast enough to throw out the
>>>back. The ride is bit tougher but I can take turns
>>>now +20 mph from before without having to back off the
>>>pedal.
>>>
>>>What you are saying would counteract my direct
>>>experience with my car.
>>>
>>>
>
>***
From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at JoiMail.com>
From: "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding@plantronics.com>
To: "'Esko & Megan Cate'" <enmcate@comcast.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 09:17:26 -0600
Subject: Restored 61 BT7 for sale in Dallas
Please respond to my direct email: bc1@joimail.com or call Brian @
214-328-6858
From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding@plantronics.com>
To: "'Esko & Megan Cate'" <enmcate@comcast.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 09:38:14 -0600
Subject: Just a little braking problem
Jack
From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding@plantronics.com>
To: "'Esko & Megan Cate'" <enmcate@comcast.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 10:42:56 EST
Subject: Re: Which Anti-Roll bar?
Rick
San diego
In a message dated 10/31/03 1:23:12 AM, j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl writes:
>
> Rick, you are discussing the position of the CoG in relation to the road and
> yes, that dimension changes when you corner. It already changes the moment
> you get in the car. But the location of the CoG of the vehicle remains the
> same!
>
> Compare it with a boat: if its CoG would change permanently on a rough sea
> the vessel wouldn't come very far.
>
>
>
> Regards,
>
>
>
> Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
From "Kent McLean" <kentmclean at mindspring.com>
From: "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding@plantronics.com>
To: "'Esko & Megan Cate'" <enmcate@comcast.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 11:14:43 -0500
Subject: Re: more fall drive
Northern New England (as the southern part is too congested).
I enjoy the spring, when the snow is gone and there is a rebirth.
But I don't like the melting snow, and how the car in front kicks
up a dirty spray of water on a beautiful sunny day. And when
you stop, the reborn bugs are out in force.
My favorite driving time is Indian [1] Summer, in the fall after
the first killing frost. The air is crisp, the summer tourists
are gone and the winter ones haven't appeared. The perfect
time is after peak foliage, when the Leaf Peepers are gone.
There is something special about running down a country
lane, top down, the sun shining through leaves of red and
yellow as a gentle breeze causes them to drift down into
your path, the leaves swirling about you in a shower of
color. You've got about a 2 week window, which makes
for 2 weekends, and you pray one of them will be warm
and sunny, like tomorrow's forecast. :-)
Peace,
Kent in NH
'56 BN2, rust bucket
'93 Miata, daily driver
[1] No offense to our Native Americans.
From "F. Ronald Rader" <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding@plantronics.com>
To: "'Esko & Megan Cate'" <enmcate@comcast.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 08:32:59 -0800
Subject: MB S 500 for Sale no LBC content
1994 Mercedes Benz S500. 4-Door Sedan. Black/Black
All Options. PS, PB, AT, PW, sunroof, CD changer, 4 new P6000 tires,
polished chrome mags. hands-free Nokia cell phone w/ mic & speakers.
This car is like new. No dents. No accidents. No stories.
Miles: 112,000 Price: $17,900
Call: Ron Rader
(310) 337-7000, ext. 111
(310) 337-0078 FAX
Rader@klabin.com
From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding@plantronics.com>
To: "'Esko & Megan Cate'" <enmcate@comcast.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 11:40:40 -0500
Subject: RE: Fall drive
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
Amateur Radio AI2Q
http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
.-.-.
-----Original Message-----
From: I Erbs [mailto:eyera3@comcast.net]
Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2003 10:09 PM
To: 'Alex'
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Fall drive
I drove my Healey to work on Monday. Up I5 to Vancouver,Washington from
Portland, Oregon. Its been real crisp the last few days, but dry!.
Expected to be mid 30's at trick or treat time. I teach HS the kids were
freaked by the car. The fall colors have been grand.
I Erbs
BT7 59
From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding@plantronics.com>
To: "'Esko & Megan Cate'" <enmcate@comcast.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 11:45:51 -0500
Subject: RE: more fall drive
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
Amateur Radio AI2Q
http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
.-.-.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Kent McLean
Sent: Friday, October 31, 2003 11:15 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: more fall drive
I Erbs wrote:
> (... please just reflect on how your part of the globe has the
> best weather for driving).............
From "Kent McLean" <kentmclean at mindspring.com>
From: "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding@plantronics.com>
To: "'Esko & Megan Cate'" <enmcate@comcast.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 11:54:29 -0500
Subject: Re: [healey] RE: more fall drive
You are most welcome.
And for the Mainer in you, if I can talk the SO into it,
this Saturday, with perfect weather in the forecast, I'd
like to take a leisurely top-down cruise up Route 202
to Portland ME and have steamers and Bass Ale at
J's Oyster. Mmmmmmmmmm.
Kent
'56 100 BN2
'93 Miata
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding@plantronics.com>
To: "'Esko & Megan Cate'" <enmcate@comcast.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 12:00:54 EST
Subject: Insurance - semi-commercial content
In a message dated 10/31/03 6:27:17 AM, owner-healeys-digest@autox.team.net
writes:
<< Dean,
You could try some of the specialty insurance companies. They will
insure classic & specialty cars for very reasonable rates.
They usually have some restrictions on mileage driven, where garaged, etc.
Beware - there is a subtle but important difference between "stated
value" & 'agreed value". Agreed means that if the car is totalled the
pay the agreed amount, no questions asked. Stated value means that they
start with that value & haggle down from there, claiming depreciation &
all sorts of payoff lowering items.
Dave Russell
BN2 >>
From David Smith <bighealeydude at yahoo.com>
From: "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding@plantronics.com>
To: "'Esko & Megan Cate'" <enmcate@comcast.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 10:16:11 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Removing the Crankcase Pulley Nut
---------------------------------
Exclusive Video Premiere - Britney Spears
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding@plantronics.com>
To: "'Esko & Megan Cate'" <enmcate@comcast.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 13:25:05 -0700
Subject: Anti-roll bar apples & oranges
So far there have been many opinions on this subject. Some with opposite
points of view.
Chris helped to explain the apparent differences. Even Chris & Mike S.
seem to differ on the results. My observation that we must be talking
apples & oranges got me into further research. Without going into all of
the CG shift, weight transfer, camber changes, & other stuff, I found a
statement by Fred Puhn, a generally well respected automotive engineer,
which should help explain the differences of opinion on the subject.
Each person should be able to find support for their apparently
conflicting ideas.
I quote;
"If you try to improve your car with a stiffer front anti-roll bar you
will definitely get less body roll in a turn. However, if you go to
extremes, front wheel lifting may result. The steer characteristics
resulting from a stiffer anti-roll bar are UNPREDICTABLE. On cars with
similar front & rear suspension designs the tendency is for a stiffer
front anti-roll bar to cause more understeer, due to increased weight
transfer in the front. On cars with independent front suspension & solid
rear axle, the tendency is often toward less understeer, particularly if
the car was designed to roll a great deal in the corners. The reason is
that the stiffer anti-roll bar prevents excessive positive camber from
occurring on the front tires in a turn. This effect is sometimes
stronger than the extra weight transfer, & results in less understeer.
Usually this result is strongest on cars which inherently understeer a
great deal, so a larger front anti-roll bar is almost always a help to
the handling with no other changes. If you install an anti-roll bar on
the rear, or if you stiffen an existing one, the effect is to create
oversteer. This is not a desirable modification unless the car
understeers very heavily under all conditions. One reason for making
this modification, however, would be if you wanted to race the car in
slaloms. Ultra tight cornering requires the car to oversteer to help it
around the turns. A typical car understeers a lot in very tight turns,
so a rear anti-roll bar may be just the thing for this type of racing."
BTW, the actual CG shift in a turn is very slight, almost negligable.
I hope this helps sort things out & not create more confusion.
Dave Russell
BN2
From Joseph Smathers <healey27 at mindspring.com>
From: "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding@plantronics.com>
To: "'Esko & Megan Cate'" <enmcate@comcast.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 15:30:28 -0500
Subject: Re: Insurance - semi-commercial content
Got Hagerty Insurance on the Healey's a year ago. They quoted the
basic. I emailed back with the exact coverage that I have on my two family
cars. For about $20 more a Healey, I got the same coverage, bodily injury,
property damage, uninsured motorist, comprehensive and collision. Great
deal, and less than 25% of the cost when with my major carrier.
Best regards, Joe
1955 100
1960 3000
12:00 PM 10/31/2003, you wrote:
>We've just written an article on insurance, with contributions from several
>of the classic insurance specialists. You can find it in the Classic
>Motorsports issue now on the newsstand (with a Jag, Vette, and Cobra on the
>cover).
>Covers the question of agreed vs stated value, on-track and paddock
>insurance.
>End of commercial. One of my very knowledgable readers pointed out that I
>left one thing out: Classic car policies typically don't offer much beyond
>basic
>coverage for liabilities -- you hit someone, for example, or someone driving
>your car hits someone -- and that leaves you very vulnerable unless you've
>got
>significant liability coverage on your regular car, or better yet, a personal
>umbrella policy.
>Good advice. Get good classic car insurance with agreed-value terms to pay
>for fire, theft, and fender-benders. Get good personal insurance to cover
>associated liabilities.
>Not intended to be read as advice. Do not rely on amateurs giving advice. We
>take no responsibility for this advice. Talk to your insurance agent, and get
>the answer in writing (seriously).
>Cheers
>Gary Anderson
>editor, Classic Motorsports Magazine
>
>In a message dated 10/31/03 6:27:17 AM, owner-healeys-digest@autox.team.net
>writes:
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding@plantronics.com>
To: "'Esko & Megan Cate'" <enmcate@comcast.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 13:34:04 -0700
Subject: Re: Removing the Crankcase Pulley Nut
Dave Russell
David Smith wrote:
> I am about to attempt to remove a crankcase pulley nut. My
> understanding is that this is extremely difficult, (to put it
> mildly). Can anyone give me instructions or recommendations on the
> best (easiest and least destructive) way to do this. I'm assuming an
> impact wrench is mandatory. But does the bolt have to be heated? If
> so, how do I do this without damaging the rubber in the harmonic
> balancer?
>
> David Smith '67 BJ8
From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding@plantronics.com>
To: "'Esko & Megan Cate'" <enmcate@comcast.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 12:38:57 -0800
Subject: RE: Insurance - semi-commercial content
From "Tim Davis" <tld6008 at mchsi.com>
From: "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding@plantronics.com>
To: "'Esko & Megan Cate'" <enmcate@comcast.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 16:10:24 -0600
Subject: Top Bow
Thanks
Tim Davis BN7
From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding@plantronics.com>
To: "'Esko & Megan Cate'" <enmcate@comcast.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 18:28:04 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey for sale
> [Original Message]
> From: Bob Slater <rob@gto.net>
> To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 10/30/03 8:56:33 PM
> Subject: Re: Healey for sale
>
> If you go to this website, there is a healey for sale;
From "Alan Schultz" <alan at andysnet.net>
From: "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding@plantronics.com>
To: "'Esko & Megan Cate'" <enmcate@comcast.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 18:36:27 -0600
Subject: Re: Insurance - semi-commercial content
Alan
1967 HBJ8L
1991 Toyota Previa
1988 Ford F250
1953 Jaguar MK VII ( purchased in 1977 still in pieces)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'Joseph Smathers'" <healey27@mindspring.com>; <Editorgary@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 31, 2003 2:38 PM
Subject: RE: Insurance - semi-commercial content
> I tried to go with Hagerty, but my daily drivers weren't new enough!! They
> must be newer than 10 years and one for each driver in the household. Just
a
> warning before someone fills out the many on-line forms.
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8
From "Alan Schultz" <alan at andysnet.net>
From: "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding@plantronics.com>
To: "'Esko & Megan Cate'" <enmcate@comcast.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 18:41:47 -0600
Subject: Re: Top Bow
Alan
67 HBJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 31, 2003 4:10 PM
Subject: Top Bow
> The top bow on my BN7 is not usable and I was wondering (before I buy one)
if
> anyone on the list has made one. If so what wood and any advice?
>
> Thanks
> Tim Davis BN7
From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding@plantronics.com>
To: "'Esko & Megan Cate'" <enmcate@comcast.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 20:41:09 -0500
Subject: Re: Removing the Crankcase Pulley Nut
While adjusting my valves, using a large spanner on the pulley nut to turn the
engine, I forgot that the wrench was still on the nut and reached behind the
starter relay to press the button to bump the engine over. The engine turned,
the wrench stopped at the left side inner splash shield, the engine continued
to turn and unscrewed the nut, shearing the locking washer tab in the process.
Fortunately, there was no damage done to the splash shield.
If I were going to try this deliberately to unscrew the nut, I would pad the
splash shield with a piece of two by four, then turn the engine until the
wrench was securely stopped against the wood (after knocking back the tab on
the washer, of course).
There is a surprising amount of torque from the starter. I have no way of
knowing how tight the nut was before I accidentally unscrewed it, but no
reason to think it was less than "tight", either. It had been on my engine
and undisturbed for at least 20 years.
Good luck!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: David Smith
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Friday, October 31, 2003 1:16 PM
Subject: Removing the Crankcase Pulley Nut
I am about to attempt to remove a crankcase pulley nut. My understanding is
that this is extremely difficult, (to put it mildly). Can anyone give me
instructions or recommendations on the best (easiest and least destructive)
way to do this. I'm assuming an impact wrench is mandatory. But does the
bolt have to be heated? If so, how do I do this without damaging the rubber
in the harmonic balancer?
David Smith
'67 BJ8
From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding@plantronics.com>
To: "'Esko & Megan Cate'" <enmcate@comcast.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 21:36:27 -0500
Subject: Fw: Check this out - Life on E-Bay
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3146042998
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding@plantronics.com>
To: "'Esko & Megan Cate'" <enmcate@comcast.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 18:38:35 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Anti-roll bar apples & oranges
Rather than me trying to figure out the physics of it
all, maybe I should just say that Cape's rose jointed
anti roll bar (with poly chassis bushings), added to
my BJ8 with standard springs & standard suspension,
makes the car handle in tight curves significantly
better that with the stock bar. I am using 10 year
old 185/70R15 radials (Riken) mounted on 15x5.5" rims.
I am not racing the car, so I cannot speak for pushing
the car to the edge in every turn, but indications are
that it would perform better here also.... as the car
holds even when my gut tells me that if the car had
the old set up I would have lost it.
I also use a jaguar/girling rear disk brake set up on
the car which narrows the rear track by about .5" in
total, don't know if that helps or hurts.
The only other thing which I think would help here is
not playing with the spring rate, but possibly putting
on a gas shock kit on the front, as that would help to
keep the tires from losing contact with the road in a
rough patch.
The next thing will be for me to put the old anti-roll
bar from my BJ8 onto my BN1, which has the original
paper-clip diameter anti roll bar set up on it!
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net> wrote:
> Which Anti-roll bar?
>
> So far there have been many opinions on this
> subject. Some with opposite
> points of view.
>
> Chris helped to explain the apparent differences.
> Even Chris & Mike S.
> seem to differ on the results. My observation that
> we must be talking
> apples & oranges got me into further research.
> Without going into all of
> the CG shift, weight transfer, camber changes, &
> other stuff, I found a
> statement by Fred Puhn, a generally well respected
> automotive engineer,
> which should help explain the differences of opinion
> on the subject.
> Each person should be able to find support for their
> apparently
> conflicting ideas.
>
> I quote;
> "If you try to improve your car with a stiffer front
> anti-roll bar you
> will definitely get less body roll in a turn.
> However, if you go to
> extremes, front wheel lifting may result. The steer
> characteristics
> resulting from a stiffer anti-roll bar are
> UNPREDICTABLE. On cars with
> similar front & rear suspension designs the tendency
> is for a stiffer
> front anti-roll bar to cause more understeer, due to
> increased weight
> transfer in the front. On cars with independent
> front suspension & solid
> rear axle, the tendency is often toward less
> understeer, particularly if
> the car was designed to roll a great deal in the
> corners. The reason is
> that the stiffer anti-roll bar prevents excessive
> positive camber from
> occurring on the front tires in a turn. This effect
> is sometimes
> stronger than the extra weight transfer, & results
> in less understeer.
> Usually this result is strongest on cars which
> inherently understeer a
> great deal, so a larger front anti-roll bar is
> almost always a help to
> the handling with no other changes. If you install
> an anti-roll bar on
> the rear, or if you stiffen an existing one, the
> effect is to create
> oversteer. This is not a desirable modification
> unless the car
> understeers very heavily under all conditions. One
> reason for making
> this modification, however, would be if you wanted
> to race the car in
> slaloms. Ultra tight cornering requires the car to
> oversteer to help it
> around the turns. A typical car understeers a lot in
> very tight turns,
> so a rear anti-roll bar may be just the thing for
> this type of racing."
>
> BTW, the actual CG shift in a turn is very slight,
> almost negligable.
>
> I hope this helps sort things out & not create more
> confusion.
>
> Dave Russell
> BN2
From "Alan Schultz" <alan at andysnet.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 21:07:34 -0600
Subject: Fw: Check this out - Life on E-Bay
> OK. This has absolutely no Healey content. It is Friday and I believe the
rules allow this kind of thing. For any of you who have accessed eBay and
have time, please read through the entire listing. It is a hoot.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3146042998
From "Jim LeBlanc" <jleblanc at midsouth.rr.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 21:18:16 -0600
Subject: RE: Removing the Crankcase Pulley Nut
Consider using the long breaker bar, but resting the handle against the
garage floor. That way no damage to the metal work when cranking the
engine.
Best Regards,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of BJ8Healeys
Sent: Friday, October 31, 2003 7:41 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Removing the Crankcase Pulley Nut
David, I can tell you how I accidentally unscrewed the pulley nut.
Whether
you want to try it is up to you. This only works if the engine is in
the car
and can be turned by the starter.
While adjusting my valves, using a large spanner on the pulley nut to
turn the
engine, I forgot that the wrench was still on the nut and reached behind
the
starter relay to press the button to bump the engine over. The engine
turned,
the wrench stopped at the left side inner splash shield, the engine
continued
to turn and unscrewed the nut, shearing the locking washer tab in the
process.
Fortunately, there was no damage done to the splash shield.
If I were going to try this deliberately to unscrew the nut, I would pad
the
splash shield with a piece of two by four, then turn the engine until
the
wrench was securely stopped against the wood (after knocking back the
tab on
the washer, of course).
There is a surprising amount of torque from the starter. I have no way
of
knowing how tight the nut was before I accidentally unscrewed it, but no
reason to think it was less than "tight", either. It had been on my
engine
and undisturbed for at least 20 years.
Good luck!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: David Smith
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Friday, October 31, 2003 1:16 PM
Subject: Removing the Crankcase Pulley Nut
I am about to attempt to remove a crankcase pulley nut. My
understanding is
that this is extremely difficult, (to put it mildly). Can anyone give
me
instructions or recommendations on the best (easiest and least
destructive)
way to do this. I'm assuming an impact wrench is mandatory. But does
the
bolt have to be heated? If so, how do I do this without damaging the
rubber
in the harmonic balancer?
David Smith
'67 BJ8
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 21:10:48 -0700
Subject: Re: Anti-roll bar apples & oranges
I am very happy for you.
Dave Russell
Blue One Hundred wrote:
> Dave -
>
> Rather than me trying to figure out the physics of it
> all, maybe I should just say that Cape's rose jointed
> anti roll bar (with poly chassis bushings), added to
> my BJ8 with standard springs & standard suspension,
> makes the car handle in tight curves significantly
> better that with the stock bar. I am using 10 year
> old 185/70R15 radials (Riken) mounted on 15x5.5" rims.
>
> I am not racing the car, so I cannot speak for pushing
> the car to the edge in every turn, but indications are
> that it would perform better here also.... as the car
> holds even when my gut tells me that if the car had
> the old set up I would have lost it.
>
> I also use a jaguar/girling rear disk brake set up on
> the car which narrows the rear track by about .5" in
> total, don't know if that helps or hurts.
>
> The only other thing which I think would help here is
> not playing with the spring rate, but possibly putting
> on a gas shock kit on the front, as that would help to
> keep the tires from losing contact with the road in a
> rough patch.
>
> The next thing will be for me to put the old anti-roll
> bar from my BJ8 onto my BN1, which has the original
> paper-clip diameter anti roll bar set up on it!
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '64 BJ8
>
>
> --- Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net> wrote:
>
>>Which Anti-roll bar?
>>
>>So far there have been many opinions on this
>>subject. Some with opposite
>>points of view.
>>
>>Chris helped to explain the apparent differences.
>>Even Chris & Mike S.
>>seem to differ on the results. My observation that
>>we must be talking
>>apples & oranges got me into further research.
>>Without going into all of
>>the CG shift, weight transfer, camber changes, &
>>other stuff, I found a
>>statement by Fred Puhn, a generally well respected
>>automotive engineer,
>>which should help explain the differences of opinion
>>on the subject.
>>Each person should be able to find support for their
>>apparently
>>conflicting ideas.
>>
>>I quote;
>>"If you try to improve your car with a stiffer front
>>anti-roll bar you
>>will definitely get less body roll in a turn.
>>However, if you go to
>>extremes, front wheel lifting may result. The steer
>>characteristics
>>resulting from a stiffer anti-roll bar are
>>UNPREDICTABLE. On cars with
>>similar front & rear suspension designs the tendency
>>is for a stiffer
>>front anti-roll bar to cause more understeer, due to
>>increased weight
>>transfer in the front. On cars with independent
>>front suspension & solid
>>rear axle, the tendency is often toward less
>>understeer, particularly if
>>the car was designed to roll a great deal in the
>>corners. The reason is
>>that the stiffer anti-roll bar prevents excessive
>>positive camber from
>>occurring on the front tires in a turn. This effect
>>is sometimes
>>stronger than the extra weight transfer, & results
>>in less understeer.
>>Usually this result is strongest on cars which
>>inherently understeer a
>>great deal, so a larger front anti-roll bar is
>>almost always a help to
>>the handling with no other changes. If you install
>>an anti-roll bar on
>>the rear, or if you stiffen an existing one, the
>>effect is to create
>>oversteer. This is not a desirable modification
>>unless the car
>>understeers very heavily under all conditions. One
>>reason for making
>>this modification, however, would be if you wanted
>>to race the car in
>>slaloms. Ultra tight cornering requires the car to
>>oversteer to help it
>>around the turns. A typical car understeers a lot in
>>very tight turns,
>>so a rear anti-roll bar may be just the thing for
>>this type of racing."
>>
>>BTW, the actual CG shift in a turn is very slight,
>>almost negligable.
>>
>>I hope this helps sort things out & not create more
>>confusion.
>>
>>Dave Russell
>>BN2
From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 22:21:32 -0600
Subject: Re: Check this out - Life on E-Bay
> The amazing thing is that the counter indicates that 765,377 people visted
> the site.
Endquote
and the darn litle critters are pushing $1000 on the bid, that is a lot of
tools and beer, or Healey parts for that matter, hilarious listing, I
laughed out loud. Diabolical plot or joe six pack trying to unload some
small stuffed critters? read and decide for yourself
For those that don't know I believe E-bay started out as a beenie baby
online auction thing, now is a great source for hard to find British car
parts, or pretty much anything else, so maybe it is kind of Helaey related.
Thanks for sharing this.
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
Happy Healeying
From GSFuqua1 at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 23:31:48 EST
Subject: Re: Fw: Check this out - Life on E-Bay
|
