From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
Date: Thu, 01 Jan 2004 10:30:33 -0800
Subject: Re: UH Oh--"Frankinkorn"
1. MTBE, for all its ills, is only on the "suspected" carcinogen list.
2. Ethanol is on the "known" carcinogen list. It is not harmless.
And, BTW, it takes over a gallon of petroleum product to refine and
transport to its destination a gallon of ethanol. So the claim that it
is a "replacement" for oil is kind of hollow in the larger equation.
Also, the emissions from ethanol production plants are relatively
unregulated, and highly noxious. But who cares!
And, oh, just how much genetically modified "frankinkorn" is being grown
with just how much sytnthetic pesticide being poured into the fast
depleating topsoil just to grow a crop of political correctness?
Not that I am at all in favor of MTBE or careless petroleum production,
either. Just wanted to help folks get past the PR from Archer Daniels
Midland, the EXXON of Ethanol.
From N0040 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2004 13:37:27 EST
Subject: Re: Champion spark plug tester Old mechanic knowledge needed
How would a non-combustible gas change the the spark timing of a plug? or
prove that a plug is defective? (Other than not firing at all).
How 'bout some mechanical or electrical engineers or physicist weighing in on
this !!
Regards,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
From "Charles Braum" <cbaustin at verizon.net>
Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2004 13:42:02 -0500
Subject: Re: Uh Oh
Don't eat those leeks!! They could be harmful to your health, and taste
really bad!!
Or, at least, don't serve them to friends.
CB
from Pittsburgh, the home of the infamous 'Scourge of the Scallions'.
From "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl>
Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2004 19:48:57 +0100
Subject: Re: UH Oh
From "Ron Davies" <rdavies1 at cox.net>
Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2004 11:26:37 -0800
Subject: UH Oh--"Frankinkorn"
Great day for a Healey ride!!
Ron
67 BJ8
PS how did this get started? I thought someone in CA just wanted to know if
ethanol in the fuel would harm our babies?
A couple of points of fact need clarification:
1. MTBE, for all its ills, is only on the "suspected" carcinogen list.
2. Ethanol is on the "known" carcinogen list. It is not harmless.
And, BTW, it takes over a gallon of petroleum product to refine and
transport to its destination a gallon of ethanol. So the claim that it
is a "replacement" for oil is kind of hollow in the larger equation.
Also, the emissions from ethanol production plants are relatively
unregulated, and highly noxious. But who cares!
And, oh, just how much genetically modified "frankinkorn" is being grown
with just how much sytnthetic pesticide being poured into the fast
depleating topsoil just to grow a crop of political correctness?
Not that I am at all in favor of MTBE or careless petroleum production,
either. Just wanted to help folks get past the PR from Archer Daniels
Midland, the EXXON of Ethanol.
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
Date: Thu, 01 Jan 2004 13:41:13 -0700
Subject: Re: Champion spark plug tester Old mechanic knowledge needed
If you are inquiring how does a gas-air mixture compared to plain air
affect plug firing;
Copied from another tech paper;
"Air-fuel ratio - required voltage is at a minimum with a stoichiometric
(14.7) air-fuel mixture because the air is just damp enough to improve
electrical conductivity; rich mixtures increase required voltage because
grounding across the insulator increases slightly, and lean mixtures
increase required voltage because the air is drier."
The variation in required voltage is around 20%. So "dry" air may
require 20% more voltage than a correct fuel air mixture.
Dave Russell
N0040@aol.com wrote:
> Still haven't seen a plausible answer to how a tester would even
> work, especially with just air.
>
> How would a non-combustible gas change the the spark timing of a
> plug? or prove that a plug is defective? (Other than not firing at
> all).
>
> How 'bout some mechanical or electrical engineers or physicist
> weighing in on this !!
>
> Regards, Bob - BJ8 Milford, MI
From Pat & Gary Rice <patgaryrice at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 01 Jan 2004 14:21:23 -0800
Subject: RE: BT7 interior
From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2004 17:43:56 -0500
Subject: Re: Champion spark plug tester Old mechanic knowledge needed
It was always my impression that the Champion spark tester blew varying
quantities of air past the plug gap to see at what point "extinction"
occurred. I'm not at all sure that proves much about the condition of a
plug, but as has been pointed out, it was as much a marketing device as
anything.
--
John Miller
File cabinet:
A four drawer, manually activated trash compactor.
From "Robert Poague" <rapoague at gte.net>
Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2004 16:26:10 -0800
Subject: Re: Champion spark plug tester Old mechanic knowledge needed
http://www.team.net/html_arc/morgans/199905/msg00030.html
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 01, 2004 2:43 PM
Subject: Re: Champion spark plug tester Old mechanic knowledge needed
> On Thursday, January 01, 2004 1:37 pm, N0040@aol.com wrote:
> > Still haven't seen a plausible answer to how a tester would even work,
> > especially with just air.
> >
> > How would a non-combustible gas change the the spark timing of a plug?
or
> > prove that a plug is defective? (Other than not firing at all).
>
> It was always my impression that the Champion spark tester blew varying
> quantities of air past the plug gap to see at what point "extinction"
> occurred. I'm not at all sure that proves much about the condition of a
> plug, but as has been pointed out, it was as much a marketing device as
> anything.
>
> --
> John Miller
From "Robert Poague" <rapoague at gte.net>
Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2004 16:26:42 -0800
Subject: Re: Champion spark plug tester Old mechanic knowledge needed
http://www.team.net/html_arc/morgans/199905/msg00030.html
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 01, 2004 2:43 PM
Subject: Re: Champion spark plug tester Old mechanic knowledge needed
> On Thursday, January 01, 2004 1:37 pm, N0040@aol.com wrote:
> > Still haven't seen a plausible answer to how a tester would even work,
> > especially with just air.
> >
> > How would a non-combustible gas change the the spark timing of a plug?
or
> > prove that a plug is defective? (Other than not firing at all).
>
> It was always my impression that the Champion spark tester blew varying
> quantities of air past the plug gap to see at what point "extinction"
> occurred. I'm not at all sure that proves much about the condition of a
> plug, but as has been pointed out, it was as much a marketing device as
> anything.
>
> --
> John Miller
From Rich Holman <rich_holman at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2004 16:23:28 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Tach pegs past 6000
I have a problem with my tach. After I have been
driving for 10-15 minutes and the needle passes over
he top (3000 rpm) it falls past 6000 rpm. If I let
off the gas and engage the clutch and the engine slows
the needle starts reporting correctly. It has happend
several times in the past as I went through the gears,
but it seems to be getting worse. For most of my New
Years highway drive today it was pegged out.
Anyone suggestions appreciated.
Thanks,
Rich
57BN4
__________________________________
Find out what made the Top Yahoo! Searches of 2003
http://search.yahoo.com/top2003
From "Peter Linn" <greylinn at ozemail.com.au>
Date: Fri, 2 Jan 2004 10:35:41 +1000
Subject: Bonnet (hood) louvres
I'm sure this will have been asked a dozen times before, but anyway... those
with 100Ms and others with louvred bonnets, (a) do they do anything for
cockpit temperatures (ie lower) and (b) what happens when it rains (and here
in Queensland, when it rains it RAINS)
Cheers
Peter Linn
Brisbane
BN1/222490 Ward Spl
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
Date: Thu, 01 Jan 2004 18:06:25 -0700
Subject: Re: Bonnet (hood) louvres
Dave Russell
BN2
Peter Linn wrote:
> G'day listers
>
> I'm sure this will have been asked a dozen times before, but anyway... those
> with 100Ms and others with louvred bonnets, (a) do they do anything for
> cockpit temperatures (ie lower) and (b) what happens when it rains (and here
> in Queensland, when it rains it RAINS)
>
> Cheers
>
> Peter Linn
> Brisbane
> BN1/222490 Ward Spl
From Healeyguy at aol.com
Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2004 20:30:36 EST
Subject: Re: 100 Six 3000 Parts Needed
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Thu, 01 Jan 2004 17:37:56 -0800
Subject: Hop Up advice sought
Am interested in answers to any of the following:
Is it reasonable to get 165-175 hp and still have driveability?
Can this be achieved with the stock head?
Does anyone in the US (prefer So Calif) flow these heads?
Is there a good engine builder or crank shop in Southern Calif who can do
Healeys?
Does a 3x HD6 setup produce more power than 2x HD8?
How does a 3x Weber DCOE setup compare for power and mileage? (My current
stock 29D engine gets 10-11 mpg--so I don't see how the Webers could be that
much worse.)
What are the best 9 to 1 pistons?
Are any of the hot street cams better than the BJ8 grind and still
reasonably driveable at low speeds?
What tube headers seem to work the best?
Would like to have a build list if possible if anyone has one.
Grateful for any suggestions.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
From "Neal Grotenhuis" <grotenhuis at comcast.net>
Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2004 20:38:26 -0500
Subject: RE: OD brake ring & overhaul
Great article! Thanks for the link. My operating valve was clean-no
blockage. My shorter clutch return springs are 1/4" shorter than spec,
which indicates possible weakness (the longer ones are correct length). I
plan to replace all of them, along with regular overhaul stuff. None of the
expensive parts look worn enough to justify replacement. I noticed I am
missing the bronze "rear sunwheel thrust washer"; perhaps that's what put
the golden sparkle and shimmer in the oil I drained out ;-)
-----Original Message-----
From: Dave & Marlene [mailto:rusd@velocitus.net]
Sent: Wednesday, December 31, 2003 6:03 PM
To: Neal Grotenhuis
Cc: Healey
Subject: Re: OD brake ring & overhaul
Hi Neal,
The most likely problem is weak release springs. Go here & scroll down
to the section on clutch release springs;
http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/AOD/AOD4/AOD4.htm
There is also a lot of good information about the rest of the OD in the
accompanying sections.
Dave Russell
BN2
Neal Grotenhuis wrote:
> I'm beginning the overhaul on my OD. It would stay engaged (affecting all
> gears, including reverse)after switching it off. Happens when warm/hot,
> only in 4th, (can't figure that one)and when engaged for longer than 5
> minutes. Fortunately I noticed this before reversing. It seems the cone
> clutch won't disengage from the braking ring, except by a sharp rap with a
> small hammer on the outside of the ring; not very convenient.
>
> I have removed the OD and disassembled it; but don't see much wear on the
> braking ring or cone clutch friction material. Both the internal &
external
> material thickness is 3mm. Anyone know if there is a spec? Are my return
> springs just too weak? I plan to overhaul the standard stuff; bearings,
> seals, gaskets, etc, but want to make sure I fix the problem. Thoughts?
>
> Neal G.
> 61 BT7
From Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2004 21:20:27 -0500
Subject: convertible top frame paint
The grey paint on the convertible top frame of my BJ8 is in need of a touch
up in a few spots.
Can anyone on the list recommend the use a correct looking paint for this
job that may blend with the original?
Scot
'66 BJ8
From SJNNOCK at aol.com
Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2004 21:45:46 EST
Subject: Re: Champion spark plug tester Old mechanic knowledge needed
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
Date: Fri, 2 Jan 2004 13:52:39 +1100
Subject: Re: Hop Up advice sought
Hop up advice? My personal choice if I want to get really 'hopped up' is
Cooper's Sparking Ale http://www.coopers.com.au/
: )
Seriously - for the Healey, (and sober) - here's basically the specs I used;
and the dynosheet results:
http://www.myaustinhealey.com/dyno_sheet.html
Your specific questions:
160 BHP at the rear wheels (much more importantly 250lb/ft of Torque -
basically torque is a flat line at over 220ft/lb from 3,000 rpm to 5,700 rpm
Absolutely still road driveable. I could get a dramatically higher HP
'number' by fitting bigger chokes - but at the end of the day - its actually
torque you want, right across the rev range - not HP at 6,000 plus rpm
(unless you have a steel aftermarket crankshaft).
Cast iron head (flowed, Denis Welch valves etc) ,and original Crank & rods
(crack tested, lightened, balanced) & shot peened rods.
2 x HD8s would be the best compromise. Triple 45s give slightly more power -
but 2 x HD8s would be equal on the road. My MPG varies between 5 and 18 MPG,
usually aroung 15 Mpg on triple webers around town. (Imperial gallons)
A Healey 3000 can be very driveable on the road with a a very long duration
cam (eg mine is 300 degrees - thats basically the same opening duration as a
works AEA-648 Sprite full race cam) - but ONLY if port size an carb size are
kept small (my chokes are only 34mm).
Hope that helps & good luck!
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
IMPORTANT: This email is intended for the use of the individual
addressee(s) named above and may contain information that is
confidential, privileged or unsuitable for overly sensitive persons with
no sense of humour or irrational religious or enviromental beliefs. If
you are not the intended recipient, any dissemination, distribution or
copying of this email is not authorised and would be deemed to be
both an annoyance, and an irritating social faux pas. Mate.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 02, 2004 12:37 PM
Subject: Hop Up advice sought
> Would like to build a hot street motor using the stock crank (and rods if
> possible) and would appreciate any experience-based advice. Am not going
> racing but would like a strong puller with the 3.54 axle ratio. Will
> consider high-lift valve trains, roller cams, Webers, etc.
>
> Am interested in answers to any of the following:
>
> Is it reasonable to get 165-175 hp and still have driveability?
>
> Can this be achieved with the stock head?
>
> Does anyone in the US (prefer So Calif) flow these heads?
>
> Is there a good engine builder or crank shop in Southern Calif who can do
> Healeys?
>
> Does a 3x HD6 setup produce more power than 2x HD8?
>
> How does a 3x Weber DCOE setup compare for power and mileage? (My current
> stock 29D engine gets 10-11 mpg--so I don't see how the Webers could be
that
> much worse.)
>
> What are the best 9 to 1 pistons?
>
> Are any of the hot street cams better than the BJ8 grind and still
> reasonably driveable at low speeds?
>
> What tube headers seem to work the best?
>
> Would like to have a build list if possible if anyone has one.
>
> Grateful for any suggestions.
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Peter Linn" <greylinn@ozemail.com.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2004 22:06:34 -0500
Subject: Bonnet (hood) louvres
> G'day listers
>
> I'm sure this will have been asked a dozen times before, but anyway...
those
> with 100Ms and others with louvred bonnets, (a) do they do anything for
> cockpit temperatures (ie lower) and (b) what happens when it rains (and
here
> in Queensland, when it rains it RAINS)
>
> Cheers
>
> Peter Linn
> Brisbane
> BN1/222490 Ward Spl
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Peter Linn" <greylinn@ozemail.com.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 01 Jan 2004 20:41:30 -0700
Subject: Re: Hop Up advice sought
Chris has some very good ideas backed with experience. Especially with
the 3.54 axle ratio, you need lots of torque. Keep the ports & carbs on
the small side to keep intake velocity high. The high stock torque is
what makes the big Healeys fun to drive on the street.
Dave Russell
Steve Gerow wrote:
> Would like to build a hot street motor using the stock crank (and rods if
> possible) and would appreciate any experience-based advice. Am not going
> racing but would like a strong puller with the 3.54 axle ratio. Will
> consider high-lift valve trains, roller cams, Webers, etc.
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: "Peter Linn" <greylinn@ozemail.com.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 01 Jan 2004 19:57:07 -0800
Subject: Re: Hop Up advice sought
Steve,
Dave has great advice. On another car I built, I went the other
direction and regretted it. I built in all the high horsepower stuff.
And, yes, the motor put out the horsepower...at wide open throttle like
when it would be raced. But it was not a race car. The low end power
was sacrificed. Skip the hp and go for the torque. That is what
presses you into the seat when you put your boot into it. And unless
you plan on driving a lot at full throttle, don't go for all the
ultimate power stuff. Remember, horsepower increases with rpm, and
unless you are wanting an engine that will need to be run a 6500 rpm to
do its business, be very careful on what you spend your money on.
On the other end of the spectrum, my 49 Plymouth woodie feels like it
has gobbs of power, but it only has 97 hp. However, the max torque is
125 ft/lb...at only 2400 RPM!!!. This is what you call a stump puller
(of sorts). Only goes 60 on the freeway. But does very well in city
driving.
A sports car for legal road work should be built for low end power in my
opinion. I think it is a fun factor.
Brian N.
Santa Cruz, CA
From Win Graham <win at gmi.net>
From: "Peter Linn" <greylinn@ozemail.com.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 01 Jan 2004 23:39:51 -0600
Subject: Prime the Fuel Pump?
Win Graham
63 BJ7
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Peter Linn" <greylinn@ozemail.com.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2004 22:21:15 -0800
Subject: Re: Prime the Fuel Pump?
The pump will pump rapidly for 5-10 seconds (give or take), then
slow to an occasional click as the lines and float bowls fill. If it keeps
ticking
rapidly, you have a leak somewhere, probably air on the suction side (unless
you have fuel leaking somewhere). Best to use new fiber gaskets, they compress
and tend to seal less the second or third time. You may want to re-tighten the
banjos
on the pump after a few miles as well.
There was a thread about priming the oil pump a while back, maybe you were
thinking of that.
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
To: "Healey Chat Group" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 01, 2004 9:39 PM
Subject: Prime the Fuel Pump?
> I just removed my fuel pump and will be replacing it this weekend. Did
> I see somewhere on the list that you need to prime the pump? Is there
> any specific way to handle this? Thanks.
>
> Win Graham
> 63 BJ7
From <lists at autox.team.net>
From: "Peter Linn" <greylinn@ozemail.com.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 2 Jan 2004 02:00:03 -0700
Subject: Forwarded: grill badges
http://www.team.net/posting.html
Reply to author, not me.
mjb.
----
------- Start of forwarded message -------
From: "Ge Aagten" <gaagten@hetnet.nl>
Subject: grill badges
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 2003 14:33:46 +0100
Hello everybody,
Our A-H club (AHDC) has for sale 20 very exclusives grill badges (heavy
quality, enamal, fits on the grill of every A-H.
There were made only 50 pieces. It is a real collecters item.
Would prefer to sell then in one lot , because of the freight expenses. If
you are interested ,please contact me off line (gaagten@hetnet.nl).
Have a look at our site :http://home.hetnet.nl/~hendrgi1/
Under cub gadgets you will find also the grill badge.
Regards,
Gi Aagten, The Netherlands
------- End of forwarded message -------
From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: "Peter Linn" <greylinn@ozemail.com.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 2 Jan 2004 08:54:27 -0500
Subject: Re: Prime the Fuel Pump?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 02, 2004 1:21 AM
Subject: Re: Prime the Fuel Pump?
> Not necessary, Win (for a stock SU pump, anyway). The pump
> will prime itself.
>
> The pump will pump rapidly for 5-10 seconds (give or take), then
> slow to an occasional click as the lines and float bowls fill. If it
keeps ticking
> rapidly, you have a leak somewhere, probably air on the suction side
(unless
> you have fuel leaking somewhere). Best to use new fiber gaskets, they
compress
> and tend to seal less the second or third time. You may want to
re-tighten the banjos
> on the pump after a few miles as well.
>
> There was a thread about priming the oil pump a while back, maybe you were
> thinking of that.
>
>
> bs
> ********************************************
> Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
> '67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
> ********************************************
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
> To: "Healey Chat Group" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, January 01, 2004 9:39 PM
> Subject: Prime the Fuel Pump?
>
>
> > I just removed my fuel pump and will be replacing it this weekend. Did
> > I see somewhere on the list that you need to prime the pump? Is there
> > any specific way to handle this? Thanks.
> >
> > Win Graham
> > 63 BJ7
>
\
From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "Peter Linn" <greylinn@ozemail.com.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 2 Jan 2004 10:46:52 -0500
Subject: SU Fuel Pumps
From sbyers <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Peter Linn" <greylinn@ozemail.com.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 2 Jan 2004 08:31:31 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: convertible top frame paint
Rustoleum Smoke Gray is supposed to be pretty close to the original. It's
what I used on my top frame, but I painted the whole thing. I don't know if
it would work as well for touch-up.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
>On Thu, 01 Jan 2004 21:20:27 -0500 Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
wrote.
>Healeyphiles,
>
>The grey paint on the convertible top frame of my BJ8 is in need of a touch
>up in a few spots.
>Can anyone on the list recommend the use a correct looking paint for this
>job that may blend with the original?
>
>Scot
>'66 BJ8
From John Harper <AH at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: "Peter Linn" <greylinn@ozemail.com.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 2 Jan 2004 17:37:02 +0000
Subject: Re: SU Fuel Pumps
All the best
>The recent discussion about priming SU pumps led me to recall that in
>November I got in my fully electronic (pointless) fuel pump from Berlin,
>which had been backordered for 100-4's (1332X). We put it in and it drew
>fuel instantly. Berlin represents the pointless pumps as a substantial
>improvement over diode-buffered point and older capcitor buffered pumps. In
>theory they should require no adjustment ever (well, ever is not an
>engineering term of art, so we'll see). At any rate, for those who want the
>aura of an SU 'thrug, trhug, thrug..." when you throw the key without
>hearing "tud, tud, tud when you're 300 miles from home, this may be
>salvation. the price is just a few pounds over the diode/points pumps, and
>either can be ordered by email using a credit card. allen miller bn2/M.
>
>
--
John Harper
From "James Shope" <healeymanjim at JoiMail.com>
From: "Peter Linn" <greylinn@ozemail.com.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 2 Jan 2004 09:46:46 -0800
Subject: dashboard finish
From Franck Vigneron <vigneronf at yahoo.com>
From: "Peter Linn" <greylinn@ozemail.com.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 2 Jan 2004 11:45:20 -0800 (PST)
Subject: How to Put Oil in Shocks?
I feel that my shocks are soft.
I bought Penrite shock absorber oil.
I would like to add some oil in my shocks in hope to
get them stiffer! Anyway at least to check the level.
(1) How to check oil level for (a) front + (b)rear?
(2) Should you have car up or on the floor?
(3) Add any additional tips that would help in the
process.
Thank you.
Franck
1960 BT7
Huntington Beach CA
__________________________________
Protect your identity with Yahoo! Mail AddressGuard
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From ronfineesq <ronfineesq at earthlink.net>
From: "Peter Linn" <greylinn@ozemail.com.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 02 Jan 2004 12:13:02 -0800
Subject: Door Gap size
Thanks for any help.
Ron Fine
From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: "Peter Linn" <greylinn@ozemail.com.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 2 Jan 2004 14:10:43 -0600
Subject: Tune-up update, Spongy clutch, great Healey drive
Well, I attempted to tune up the Healey to stop low power problem. I seem
to be on right track, but still messed something. The car now has great
power off of the line and will get up to speed (I kept it around 50 to 60)
but it now sputters when I step on the gas at speed. I believe that I was
right that the problem is tuning related, but I missed something. Back to
the drawing board, but it is a lot better than it was.
I was planning on driving to the Gulf Coast Healey meeting on the 10th, but
I probably can't now. I'll have to try for the Feb meeting.
I did drive the car a bunch on New Years Eve Day. One more problem
developed. The clutch pedal seems to get spongy (soft) after a while, but
can be pumped back up. That would point to needing to bleed the clutch,
right?
I did get about 30 miles of top down driving on a clear 65 degree day. That
is my first time to drive the car more than around the neighborhood. I was
grinning like a school boy, especially when I passed a rubber bumper MGB!!!
I had to call my wife (who's visiting family in Florida) from the road just
so she could hear the engine on the open road. She didn't really care, but
since she loves me she acted like she did!!!
Finally, I think I picked a shop for the paint, he has a 3000 there now, but
it is stalled for the moment, and just finished a Bugeye. The best news is
that it is 4 miles from my house, so I can keep an eye on it. Now to decide
on the color. I know that I don't want to keep it all red as it is now, but
I haven't decided if I want to go back to the original black (awful hot in
Texas) or go to some other combination.
Patton
-------------------------------------
Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
1957 Austin-Healey BN4
Website http://www.austin-healeys.com/
For Sale - 1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: "Peter Linn" <greylinn@ozemail.com.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 2 Jan 2004 16:26:12 -0500
Subject: Re: convertible top frame paint
Yes, the Smoke Gray is an excellent match. Have used it on the BJ8 and BN7
top frames.
Keith Pennell
> Hi, Scot -
>
> Rustoleum Smoke Gray is supposed to be pretty close to the original. It's
> what I used on my top frame, but I painted the whole thing. I don't know
if
> it would work as well for touch-up.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: "Peter Linn" <greylinn@ozemail.com.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 2 Jan 2004 16:37:44 -0500
Subject: Re: dashboard finish
I have not had any experieince with refinishing the dash, but there has been
much talk about an Eastwood product that seems good. One thing I will say
DO NOT USE POLY. I used it on my wood steering wheel and it was yellow
immediately! Wish I had used something colorless.
> does anyone know a way to get the safety gauge out without pulling the
temp
> tube all the way out through the front of dash. thanks in advance.
> healeymanjim
This is the only way I have heard of it being done.
Keith Pennell
From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Peter Linn" <greylinn@ozemail.com.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 2 Jan 2004 18:17:40 -0500
Subject: Re: Tune-up update, Spongy clutch, great Healey drive
I had a BJ8 that would do that until I put in hotter plugs (in normal
around-town driving, they weren't getting hot enough to keep the deposits
burned off, but were marginally O.K. until stressed with high revs under
load). That may not relate to your problem, but it's worth looking into.
Let us hear what you find!
--
John Miller
Your motives for doing whatever good deed you may have in mind will be
misinterpreted by somebody.
From "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyingb at surewest.net>
From: "Peter Linn" <greylinn@ozemail.com.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 2 Jan 2004 15:33:15 -0800
Subject: cam regrind or trash
Any other opinions out there and places you would suggest to do the work?
Jerry
From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: "Peter Linn" <greylinn@ozemail.com.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 2 Jan 2004 18:18:53 -0600
Subject: RE: Tune-up update, Spongy clutch, great Healey drive
As for the plugs, it's possible since I noticed that my plugs were wet when
I did the compression test. I did not check them after I fiddled around
with the rest, but will look again. I am thinking that I am not getting a
good or consistent spark or I set the timing wrong, or the advance (either
the vacuum or the distributor weights) are not functioning correctly.
Patton
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of John Miller
Sent: Friday, January 02, 2004 5:18 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Tune-up update, Spongy clutch, great Healey drive
I had a BJ8 that would do that until I put in hotter plugs (in normal
around-town driving, they weren't getting hot enough to keep the deposits
burned off, but were marginally O.K. until stressed with high revs under
load). That may not relate to your problem, but it's worth looking into.
Let us hear what you find!
--
John Miller
From "Lee and Marti" <leemar at bendcable.com>
From: Lee and Marti
To: Majordomo@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 2 Jan 2004 16:33:18 -0800
Subject: dashboard finish
Jim, I refinished the passenger side this year with a product called EnviroTex
Lite. It provides a superb finish and is very easy to apply. At this time of
year, I suggest you do it inside the house where it is warm enough to cure
properly. Be sure to put a newspaper down first, then put a block of wood
(2x4) underneath the dash so when the resin runs down it doesn't stick the
dash to the paper. I also made a "tent" of aluminum foil to cover the whole
assy while the resin cures. It seems to attract any particle of dust/lint
within miles. It's relatively odor-free, so it won't be obnoxious while it
cures.
Be sure to clean the dash of any finger oils/etc, and use a tack cloth to
remove any particles of dust. Also, be sure the dash is horizontal, so the
resin doesn't flow off to one side.
Measure, mix, and pour per the instructions. Don't put it on too thick -
about the thickness of two or three coats of varathane is about right. If you
see a piece of lint, you can get it off with the artists brush before it sets
up. If you leave a small indentation, drop a small drop of resin in the
indentation and it should flow out smoothly. Once it has flowed out (you can
help it with a small artists brush), you'll see some small bubbles on the
surface. Lightly blow through a straw or small piece of tubing, moving it
across the surface. The CO2 in your breath magically makes the bubbles
disappear!
Tent it and let it cure. The directions say that it takes around 72 hours to
fully cure at room temperature. My experience says that it shouldn't be
handled for a week.
Once it has cured, if you missed a bubble or find a piece of lint, just sand
it down and put on another thin coat.
I bought the EnviroTex Lite at the local Michael's art and craft store. It is
used in the craft business for decoupage, and should be available at your
local craft store.
Good luck and let us know how it works for you.
Lee
From Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: Lee and Marti
To: Majordomo@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 02 Jan 2004 19:40:50 -0500
Subject: In need of backplate
From "Greg Wilkinson" <gregwilkinson at adelphia.net>
From: Lee and Marti
To: Majordomo@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 2 Jan 2004 16:50:02 -0800
Subject: RE: cam regrind or trash
Best,
Greg
67 BJ8
> -----Original Message-----
>
> I have a cam that has 6 lobes with more than 15 thousand
> difference than the
> rest. Some of these are rounded off to the visible eye. I have been told
> that welding and regrind can only be done on at most 4 lobes per cam.
>
> Any other opinions out there and places you would suggest to do the work?
>
> Jerry
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 2 Jan 2004 21:30:12 -0500
Subject: Fw: dashboard finish
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Lee and Marti
> To: Majordomo@autox.team.net
> Sent: Friday, January 02, 2004 11:22 AM
> Subject: dashboard finish
>
>
> Jim, I refinished the passenger side this year with a product called
EnviroTex
> Lite. It provides a superb finish and is very easy to apply. At this
time of
> year, I suggest you do it inside the house where it is warm enough to cure
> properly. Be sure to put a newspaper down first, then put a block of wood
> (2x4) underneath the dash so when the resin runs down it doesn't stick the
> dash to the paper. I also made a "tent" of aluminum foil to cover the
whole
> assy while the resin cures. It seems to attract any particle of dust/lint
> within miles. It's relatively odor-free, so it won't be obnoxious while
it
> cures.
>
> Be sure to clean the dash of any finger oils/etc, and use a tack cloth to
> remove any particles of dust. Also, be sure the dash is horizontal, so
the
> resin doesn't flow off to one side.
>
> Measure, mix, and pour per the instructions. Don't put it on too thick -
> about the thickness of two or three coats of varathane is about right. If
you
> see a piece of lint, you can get it off with the artists brush before it
sets
> up. If you leave a small indentation, drop a small drop of resin in the
> indentation and it should flow out smoothly. Once it has flowed out (you
can
> help it with a small artists brush), you'll see some small bubbles on the
> surface. Lightly blow through a straw or small piece of tubing, moving it
> across the surface. The CO2 in your breath magically makes the bubbles
> disappear!
>
> Tent it and let it cure. The directions say that it takes around 72 hours
to
> fully cure at room temperature. My experience says that it shouldn't be
> handled for a week.
>
> Once it has cured, if you missed a bubble or find a piece of lint, just
sand
> it down and put on another thin coat.
>
> I bought the EnviroTex Lite at the local Michael's art and craft store.
It is
> used in the craft business for decoupage, and should be available at your
> local craft store.
>
> Good luck and let us know how it works for you.
>
> Lee
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 2 Jan 2004 18:45:00 -0800
Subject: Re: cam regrind or trash
Delta Cam: 800-562-5500, www.deltacam.com
Talk to either Scott or Jerry. They have various AH grinds available, from
stock to wild, and can repair damaged cams. You need to have them surface
the lifters too. Just tell them what you want. They do AH cams from all
over the US. No financial interest...OK, they gave me a T-shirt 2 cams ago.
John Snyder
> I have a cam that has 6 lobes with more than 15 thousand difference than
the
> rest. Some of these are rounded off to the visible eye. I have been told
> that welding and regrind can only be done on at most 4 lobes per cam.
>
> Any other opinions out there and places you would suggest to do the work?
>
> Jerry
From Drtrite at aol.com
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 2 Jan 2004 23:20:33 EST
Subject: Re: Tune-up update, Spongy clutch, great Healey drive
<< I did drive the car a bunch on New Years Eve Day. One more problem
developed. The clutch pedal seems to get spongy (soft) after a while, but
can be pumped back up. That would point to needing to bleed the clutch,
right? >>
There is a tech article on the North Texas AH Club web site <A
HREF="www.ntahc.org">ntahc.org</A> about replacing the hose. Take a look at it
and this
could very well be the problem. Look under Tech articles.
Don
NTAHC
From "Peter Linn" <greylinn at ozemail.com.au>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2004 18:14:13 +1000
Subject: Louvres
Thanks
Peter Linn
Brisbane
BN1 Ward Spl coupe
From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2004 09:53:55 -0600
Subject: Re: cam regrind or trash
and rewelded three lobes on one cam. I think that it was something like $225
to do everything for one cam. Also, Elgin has different cam profiles for lift
and duration. I had one ground stock and the other a hot street setup. The
amount of wear on your cam lobes will determine which grind you can go with.
According to Elgin, if your lobes are too worn then there is not enough metal
to regrind a cam for high lift, long duration, so you may have to go with a
stock regrind. I have never heard about the limit on bad lobes to four.
Unfortunately, I do not have Elgin's address laying around anymore. Check out
their webpage.
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
63 BJ-7
Quoting John Snyder <johnahsn@olypen.com>:
> Give Delta Cam in Tacoma, WA a call. They are very familiar w/ Austin
> Healey cams, and have done 3 for me. When I put an AH cam on their counter,
> they say "Austin Healey" without asking what it is.
>
> Delta Cam: 800-562-5500, www.deltacam.com
>
> Talk to either Scott or Jerry. They have various AH grinds available, from
> stock to wild, and can repair damaged cams. You need to have them surface
> the lifters too. Just tell them what you want. They do AH cams from all
> over the US. No financial interest...OK, they gave me a T-shirt 2 cams ago.
>
> John Snyder
>
>
>
>
> > I have a cam that has 6 lobes with more than 15 thousand difference than
> the
> > rest. Some of these are rounded off to the visible eye. I have been told
> > that welding and regrind can only be done on at most 4 lobes per cam.
> >
> > Any other opinions out there and places you would suggest to do the work?
> >
> > Jerry
From robert.j.anderson at att.net
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 03 Jan 2004 16:56:14 +0000
Subject: Re: cam regrind or trash
I have a hardtop that I need to identify. The only numbers I can find are
4 08 60 2117. Do I have a 4 seater or 2 seater top?
Thanks for your help.
Jerry Anderson
BN4L 36381
Greensboro, NC
From robert.j.anderson at att.net
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 03 Jan 2004 17:32:38 +0000
Subject: 100/6 Hardtop
I have a hardtop that I need to identify. It came with my BN4. The only
numbers I can find are 4 08 06 2117.
Do I have a 4 seater or 2 seater hardtop?
Thanks for your help.
Jerry Anderson
BN4L 36381
Greensboro, NC
From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2004 14:17:46 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: 100/6 Hardtop
In the two seater hardtop, the 1st # is a 6 and in a four seater the 1st # is a
4 (e.g. 4 07 61
1909). Based on this, you have a four seater.
--Scott Morris ['62 BT7 with hardtop]
PS: Also, Ron Mitchell penned the following [sometime in 1998 I think] which
should further help
identify your hardtop.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
In determining the difference between a 2+2 and a 2 seater hard top you should
look for the
following:
1. Look at the aluminum extrusion at the rear of the Hard Top where it mates
to the car. The 2+2
hard top sits on the Aluminum surround and is flat over the entire mating
surface. The 2 seater
hard top sits on the body and follows the shape of the body. The aluminum
extrusion will dip
downward around the area at the outer ends of the Plexiglas rear window
approximately 9/16 Inch.
2. If the J Bolt mounting brackets are still on the hard top you can measure
them to determine
which top it is. The 2+2 hard top brackets are a little over 2 inches long.
The 2 seater hard
top brackets are over 4 inches long.
The only difference between the 2 hard tops is the Plexiglas rear window, the
rear lower aluminum
extrusion, the rear body seals and the two mounting brackets. They are
identical in all other
respects.
I have two 2+2 Hard tops that I am modifying to fit my BN6 and BN7. I've had
new Plexiglas made
for a 2 seater and am planning on removing the lower rear extrusion to reshape
it to fit the body.
I have already machined new brackets to replace the shorter ones. I've been
told that freezing
the aluminum will bring it back to dead soft so that it can be reshaped.
Haven't tried that yet
but plan on giving it a try.
Bill Bolton has the Plexiglas rear windows. British Specialties has all the
rear surface mounting
seals and Roger Moment is having side screen opening seals made.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--- robert.j.anderson@att.net wrote: << List, I have a hardtop that I need to
identify. It came
with my BN4. The only numbers I can find are 4 08 06 2117. Do I have a 4
seater or 2 seater
hardtop? Thanks for your help. Jerry Anderson BN4L 36381 Greensboro, NC
>>
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
From "Scott Willis" <ahpowered at hotmail.com>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2004 14:20:37 -0600
Subject: Proper tools
Now I am trying to replace head gasket. Is there a trick to get the inlet
menifold off? It is frozen and won't budge. I hit it several times with a dead
blow hammer but I'm affraid I may crack the aluminum manifold. This BN7 has
been sitting for 20+ years. I know the head will be very difficult and frozen.
Are their tools to pry the head and manifolds off, etc?
Cheers!
Scott
Mashed 60 BN7
From "Scott Willis" <ahpowered at hotmail.com>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2004 15:15:42 -0600
Subject: Re: Proper tools - now just head.
Any suggestions on freeing head?
Thanks.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Willis" <ahpowered@hotmail.com>
To: "Lists, Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2004 2:20 PM
Subject: Proper tools
> I want to thank everyone for telling me (a hack mechanic that wants to
drive!)
> of the proper tools to get the suspension apart. Thanks.
>
> Now I am trying to replace head gasket. Is there a trick to get the inlet
> menifold off? It is frozen and won't budge. I hit it several times with a
dead
> blow hammer but I'm affraid I may crack the aluminum manifold. This BN7
has
> been sitting for 20+ years. I know the head will be very difficult and
frozen.
>
> Are their tools to pry the head and manifolds off, etc?
>
> Cheers!
>
> Scott
> Mashed 60 BN7
From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2004 16:41:45 -0500
Subject: RE: Proper tools
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Scott Willis
Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2004 3:21 PM
To: Lists, Healey
Subject: Proper tools
I want to thank everyone for telling me (a hack mechanic that wants to
drive!)
of the proper tools to get the suspension apart. Thanks.
Now I am trying to replace head gasket. Is there a trick to get the
inlet
menifold off? It is frozen and won't budge. I hit it several times with
a dead
blow hammer but I'm affraid I may crack the aluminum manifold. This BN7
has
been sitting for 20+ years. I know the head will be very difficult and
frozen.
Are their tools to pry the head and manifolds off, etc?
Cheers!
Scott
Mashed 60 BN7
From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2004 17:38:48 -0500
Subject: Restoration Update
Check out the following link for my latest pictures. The BN4's almost ready
to be declared resurrected. A word of warning to those using a dial-up
connection. This page will load slow.
http://home.nc.rr.com/mvpengineers/
Mick Vander Ploeg
'57 BN4
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2004 17:35:15 -0600
Subject: Re: Restoration Update
Thanks for sharing that.... I haven't followed your restoration so it was a
treat to catch up on your work.... very nice... very nice indeed...
Almost makes me want to restore my 100 again... it's been 20+ yrs and it's
getting a bit long in the tooth... I keep threating to do it but the
Bonneville racing deal has occupied all my time.... and the poor Hundred
just sits looking at me with sideways glances each time I pass..... someday
Keith
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2004 4:38 PM
Subject: Restoration Update
> My New Year's resolution was to ride around in the Healey & then update my
> home page with the latest restoration pictures (I like to set achievable
> goals). Today was absolute driving perfection in North Carolina. 72
degrees
> and not a cloud in the sky.
>
> Check out the following link for my latest pictures. The BN4's almost
ready
> to be declared resurrected. A word of warning to those using a dial-up
> connection. This page will load slow.
>
> http://home.nc.rr.com/mvpengineers/
>
>
> Mick Vander Ploeg
> '57 BN4
From "Kenny Johnson" <theswed at hotmail.com>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 03 Jan 2004 16:26:11 -0800
Subject: Rear Shroud
Kenny
61 BT-7
_________________________________________________________________
Worried about inbox overload? Get MSN Extra Storage now!
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2004 08:41:44 -0500
Subject: Re: SU Fuel Pumps
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 02, 2004 10:46 AM
Subject: SU Fuel Pumps
> The recent discussion about priming SU pumps led me to recall that in
> November I got in my fully electronic (pointless) fuel pump from Berlin,
> which had been backordered for 100-4's (1332X). We put it in and it drew
> fuel instantly. Berlin represents the pointless pumps as a substantial
> improvement over diode-buffered point and older capcitor buffered pumps.
In
> theory they should require no adjustment ever (well, ever is not an
> engineering term of art, so we'll see). At any rate, for those who want
the
> aura of an SU 'thrug, trhug, thrug..." when you throw the key without
> hearing "tud, tud, tud when you're 300 miles from home, this may be
> salvation. the price is just a few pounds over the diode/points pumps, and
> either can be ordered by email using a credit card. allen miller bn2/M.
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2004 20:29:24 -0500
Subject: Computer Help, Please
I just recently upgraded my anti virus and of course to do so everything
else had to be upgraded. Inernet Explore 6, Outlook Express 6 and then
finally Norton A/V and I am running windows 98. I started at 11:00AM and
ended at 7:PM , exhausting.
Now my system is sooooo sloooooow when loading Outlook Ex. and using the
internet.
I did a defrag soon after all the down loading but its been about a week now
and things are still running slow. I checked out the Microsoft Newsgroup
only to get a bunch of "go here for this"
and "go there for thats" and when I do my promblem is not listed. A
couple of listings said to disable the scanning for incoming and outgoing
emails to speed things up ??? doesn't that defeat the purpose of having the
Anti Virus in the first placed. I'm a little confused with that suggestion.
All programs down loaded properly or at least they said they did. I
still have half of hard drive memory available. Computer is 5 years old but
haven't had any troubles that weren't correctable up to this point.
It actually sounds like its doing twice as much work as it used to
before the downloads and the noise is enough to drive me crazy.
Can someone please send some ideas of what I can delete, check, add.
I Thank You in advance.
Mark
From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2004 20:39:05 EST
Subject: Re: SU Fuel Pumps
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2004 20:42:13 -0500
Subject: Re: Proper tools
On more than one occasion I have lifted an entire car off
the ground while trying to lift a head off so a straight pull may not
work.
From "Scott Willis" <ahpowered at hotmail.com>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2004 20:52:12 -0600
Subject: Re: Proper tools - MY HEAD IS OFF!!!
I then proceed to grill the family salmon fillets in a clean shirt and
grease smudges on my face and suddenly I think "I need to get in there with
the motor". I tell my wife the revelation and she is not impressed. I put
my grease covered sweat shirt back on and get in the engine compartment. I
hug the head and to my surprise I pull it out with ease and just a couple
grunts. Wow. It is heavy. I can see where an aluminum head could lighten
things up. I suppose I could just lose the pot belly.
I'm concerned that the pistons and valves are covered in black carbon build
up. It will not easily scrape off with the fingernail. When I have the head
magnafluxed and shaved for smoothness to reinstall will the shop clean it?
Also, should I be concerned about the black on top of the pistons or will it
burn off? The compression was even and approx 160 on each cylinder.
Thanks again!
Scott
Mashed 60 BN7
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: "'Scott Willis'" <ahpowered@hotmail.com>; "'Lists, Healey'"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2004 3:41 PM
Subject: RE: Proper tools
> Hi Scott,
> First you must realize that the inlet manifold is bolted to the exhaust
> manifold with 4 long 5/16" bolts. You will probably find that the bolts
> will break off rather than unscrew, so I would recommend taking both the
> inlet and exhaust manifolds off as a unit then reinstall them the same
> way. Be very careful to make sure that you undo all the nuts, after
> which it should come off easily with a couple of light blows.
> If you have all the nuts off the head should slide up the studs
> reasonably easily. If moisture has migrated into the gap between the
> studs and the head casting it will be very difficult. Sometimes using a
> good quality stud remover to take all the studs out is the only
> solution. Just prying with a bunch of rusted in studs probably won't
> achieve much. On more than one occasion I have lifted an entire car off
> the ground while trying to lift a head off so a straight pull may not
> work. The best trick is to try to remove the studs orat least get them
> all turning in the head.
> Good luck.
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Scott Willis
> Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2004 3:21 PM
> To: Lists, Healey
> Subject: Proper tools
>
> I want to thank everyone for telling me (a hack mechanic that wants to
> drive!)
> of the proper tools to get the suspension apart. Thanks.
>
> Now I am trying to replace head gasket. Is there a trick to get the
> inlet
> menifold off? It is frozen and won't budge. I hit it several times with
> a dead
> blow hammer but I'm affraid I may crack the aluminum manifold. This BN7
> has
> been sitting for 20+ years. I know the head will be very difficult and
> frozen.
>
> Are their tools to pry the head and manifolds off, etc?
>
> Cheers!
>
> Scott
> Mashed 60 BN7
From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2004 21:23:30 -0600
Subject: Re: Restoration Update
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2004 4:38 PM
Subject: Restoration Update
> My New Year's resolution was to ride around in the Healey & then update my
> home page with the latest restoration pictures (I like to set achievable
> goals). Today was absolute driving perfection in North Carolina. 72
degrees
> and not a cloud in the sky.
>
> Check out the following link for my latest pictures. The BN4's almost
ready
> to be declared resurrected. A word of warning to those using a dial-up
> connection. This page will load slow.
>
> http://home.nc.rr.com/mvpengineers/
>
>
> Mick Vander Ploeg
> '57 BN4
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2004 23:14:15 -0500
Subject: Re: Proper tools - MY HEAD IS OFF!!!
And on a heavier note, be careful with that boat anchor head, that can throw
a back out in no time.
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Willis" <ahpowered@hotmail.com>
To: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>; "'Lists, Healey'"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2004 9:52 PM
Subject: Re: Proper tools - MY HEAD IS OFF!!!
> Thanks again folks. The head came loose and I tried to pry it up with
wood
> enough to lift off. YIKES! How much does it weigh? I am all back/crack and
> leg with slight pot belly. No butt to give leverage as I try to lift. My
> legs just come off the ground as I grunt. You guys are right about going
> away and coming back to re-evaluate.
>
> I then proceed to grill the family salmon fillets in a clean shirt and
> grease smudges on my face and suddenly I think "I need to get in there
with
> the motor". I tell my wife the revelation and she is not impressed. I put
> my grease covered sweat shirt back on and get in the engine compartment. I
> hug the head and to my surprise I pull it out with ease and just a couple
> grunts. Wow. It is heavy. I can see where an aluminum head could lighten
> things up. I suppose I could just lose the pot belly.
>
> I'm concerned that the pistons and valves are covered in black carbon
build
> up. It will not easily scrape off with the fingernail. When I have the
head
> magnafluxed and shaved for smoothness to reinstall will the shop clean it?
> Also, should I be concerned about the black on top of the pistons or will
it
> burn off? The compression was even and approx 160 on each cylinder.
>
> Thanks again!
> Scott
> Mashed 60 BN7
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
> To: "'Scott Willis'" <ahpowered@hotmail.com>; "'Lists, Healey'"
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2004 3:41 PM
> Subject: RE: Proper tools
>
>
> > Hi Scott,
> > First you must realize that the inlet manifold is bolted to the exhaust
> > manifold with 4 long 5/16" bolts. You will probably find that the bolts
> > will break off rather than unscrew, so I would recommend taking both the
> > inlet and exhaust manifolds off as a unit then reinstall them the same
> > way. Be very careful to make sure that you undo all the nuts, after
> > which it should come off easily with a couple of light blows.
> > If you have all the nuts off the head should slide up the studs
> > reasonably easily. If moisture has migrated into the gap between the
> > studs and the head casting it will be very difficult. Sometimes using a
> > good quality stud remover to take all the studs out is the only
> > solution. Just prying with a bunch of rusted in studs probably won't
> > achieve much. On more than one occasion I have lifted an entire car off
> > the ground while trying to lift a head off so a straight pull may not
> > work. The best trick is to try to remove the studs orat least get them
> > all turning in the head.
> > Good luck.
> >
> > Michael Salter
> > www.precisionsportscar.com
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
> > On Behalf Of Scott Willis
> > Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2004 3:21 PM
> > To: Lists, Healey
> > Subject: Proper tools
> >
> > I want to thank everyone for telling me (a hack mechanic that wants to
> > drive!)
> > of the proper tools to get the suspension apart. Thanks.
> >
> > Now I am trying to replace head gasket. Is there a trick to get the
> > inlet
> > menifold off? It is frozen and won't budge. I hit it several times with
> > a dead
> > blow hammer but I'm affraid I may crack the aluminum manifold. This BN7
> > has
> > been sitting for 20+ years. I know the head will be very difficult and
> > frozen.
> >
> > Are their tools to pry the head and manifolds off, etc?
> >
> > Cheers!
> >
> > Scott
> > Mashed 60 BN7
From "Scott Willis" <ahpowered at hotmail.com>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2004 22:27:26 -0600
Subject: Re: Proper tools - MY HEAD IS OFF!!!
Grunt. Ooooh!
Cheers
~S
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
To: "Scott Willis" <ahpowered@hotmail.com>; "Michael Salter"
<msalter@precisionsportscar.com>; "'Lists, Healey'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2004 10:14 PM
Subject: Re: Proper tools - MY HEAD IS OFF!!!
> Great News! I hope you have the "pot belly steering wheel adjustment"
> option on your car. :)
>
> And on a heavier note, be careful with that boat anchor head, that can
throw
> a back out in no time.
>
> Mark
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Scott Willis" <ahpowered@hotmail.com>
> To: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>; "'Lists, Healey'"
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2004 9:52 PM
> Subject: Re: Proper tools - MY HEAD IS OFF!!!
>
>
> > Thanks again folks. The head came loose and I tried to pry it up with
> wood
> > enough to lift off. YIKES! How much does it weigh? I am all back/crack
and
> > leg with slight pot belly. No butt to give leverage as I try to lift. My
> > legs just come off the ground as I grunt. You guys are right about going
> > away and coming back to re-evaluate.
> >
> > I then proceed to grill the family salmon fillets in a clean shirt and
> > grease smudges on my face and suddenly I think "I need to get in there
> with
> > the motor". I tell my wife the revelation and she is not impressed. I
put
> > my grease covered sweat shirt back on and get in the engine compartment.
I
> > hug the head and to my surprise I pull it out with ease and just a
couple
> > grunts. Wow. It is heavy. I can see where an aluminum head could lighten
> > things up. I suppose I could just lose the pot belly.
> >
> > I'm concerned that the pistons and valves are covered in black carbon
> build
> > up. It will not easily scrape off with the fingernail. When I have the
> head
> > magnafluxed and shaved for smoothness to reinstall will the shop clean
it?
> > Also, should I be concerned about the black on top of the pistons or
will
> it
> > burn off? The compression was even and approx 160 on each cylinder.
> >
> > Thanks again!
> > Scott
> > Mashed 60 BN7
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
> > To: "'Scott Willis'" <ahpowered@hotmail.com>; "'Lists, Healey'"
> > <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2004 3:41 PM
> > Subject: RE: Proper tools
> >
> >
> > > Hi Scott,
> > > First you must realize that the inlet manifold is bolted to the
exhaust
> > > manifold with 4 long 5/16" bolts. You will probably find that the
bolts
> > > will break off rather than unscrew, so I would recommend taking both
the
> > > inlet and exhaust manifolds off as a unit then reinstall them the same
> > > way. Be very careful to make sure that you undo all the nuts, after
> > > which it should come off easily with a couple of light blows.
> > > If you have all the nuts off the head should slide up the studs
> > > reasonably easily. If moisture has migrated into the gap between the
> > > studs and the head casting it will be very difficult. Sometimes using
a
> > > good quality stud remover to take all the studs out is the only
> > > solution. Just prying with a bunch of rusted in studs probably won't
> > > achieve much. On more than one occasion I have lifted an entire car
off
> > > the ground while trying to lift a head off so a straight pull may not
> > > work. The best trick is to try to remove the studs orat least get them
> > > all turning in the head.
> > > Good luck.
> > >
> > > Michael Salter
> > > www.precisionsportscar.com
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
> > > On Behalf Of Scott Willis
> > > Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2004 3:21 PM
> > > To: Lists, Healey
> > > Subject: Proper tools
> > >
> > > I want to thank everyone for telling me (a hack mechanic that wants to
> > > drive!)
> > > of the proper tools to get the suspension apart. Thanks.
> > >
> > > Now I am trying to replace head gasket. Is there a trick to get the
> > > inlet
> > > menifold off? It is frozen and won't budge. I hit it several times
with
> > > a dead
> > > blow hammer but I'm affraid I may crack the aluminum manifold. This
BN7
> > > has
> > > been sitting for 20+ years. I know the head will be very difficult and
> > > frozen.
> > >
> > > Are their tools to pry the head and manifolds off, etc?
> > >
> > > Cheers!
> > >
> > > Scott
> > > Mashed 60 BN7
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 03 Jan 2004 20:58:03 -0800
Subject: Re: Proper tools - MY HEAD IS OFF!!!
I have never had mine off. Looks to me that it weighs more than the
crankcase.
Hmmmm. Wonder if the center of gravity of the car would be lower if we
flipped the engine over....
Brian N
http://beachcitygas.com/ixora.jpg
From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2004 00:41:38 EST
Subject: Re: Proper tools - MY HEAD IS OFF!!!
From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2004 04:48:53 -0500
Subject: [OT] Re: Computer Help, Please
If there's lots of disk activity, it's probably swapping, i.e., paging RAM out
to disk. How much RAM does it have? (128M should be enough for Win98 +
"enhancements," but if you've already got that much, you may need to bump it
up to 256).
--
John Miller
computer geek, retired
From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2004 04:53:39 -0500
Subject: Re: Proper tools - now just head.
1) Be sure all head bolts are loosened 1/4" or so
2) Disconnect ignition wires from spark plugs, but leave plugs installed
3) Crank engine
4) Voila! Head has popped loose!
(At least it often works that way.)
--
John Miller
e-credibility: the non-guaranteeable likelihood that the electronic data
you're seeing is genuine rather than somebody's made-up crap.
-Karl Lehenbauer
From Warthodson at aol.com
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2004 08:54:01 EST
Subject: Re: 100/6 Hardtop
> In the two seater hardtop, the 1st # is a 6 and in a four seater the 1st #
> is a 4 (e.g. 4 07 61
> 1909). Based on this, you have a four seater.
>
> --Scott Morris ['62 BT7 with hardtop]
>
I have been told it is the other way around. I.E. If the first # is a 4 (as
in BN4) it is a two seater & if the first # is a 6 (as in BN6) it is a four
seater (2+2).
Also, the next two numbers are the month (e.g. 04 = April) & the next two
numbers are the year (e.g. 61 = 1961).
I have no way to verify this, I am just passing along what I have been told.
I have what I think is a 4 seat hard top that I want to modify to fit a two
seater, too. I would be interested in hearing if others have tried this & how
they reformed the aluminum trim that mates to the body.
Thanks,
Gary Hodson
From KingR44916 at aol.com
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2004 09:03:39 EST
Subject: tube shocks
From Warthodson at aol.com
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2004 09:49:10 EST
Subject: Re: 100/6 Hardtop
From "R.J. Denton" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 04 Jan 2004 10:21:40 -0600
Subject: Re: 100/6 Hardtop
I already tossed my hardtop out thinking it was a fake.
Warthodson@aol.com wrote:
> Sorry, You are correct & I have it reversed.
> 1st number = 4 = BN4 = four seater
> 1st number = 6 = BN6 = 2 seater
> I apologize for any confusion I may have caused.
> Gary
From "F. Ronald Rader" <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 04 Jan 2004 10:45:36 -0800
Subject: shipping a tranny
From "Rick &7& Neves" <Rick at genomictechnologies.com>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2004 14:35:02 -0500
Subject: Dark Blue Dash Color?
Sincerely
Rick Neves
'56 BN-2
Millis, MA 02054
&7&
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.557 / Virus Database: 349 - Release Date: 12/30/2003
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 04 Jan 2004 11:44:22 -0800
Subject: Re: shipping a tranny
I shipped two transmisions recently via UPS from California to
Washington state.
The best way I found was to locate or construct a pallet of the right
size onto which I bolted the transmission via a couple of angle brackets.
Then I put the whole thing in a box.
It barely fit the max h"+w"+l" measurement limit. As well as the weight
limit. But it worked.
Brian N
http://www.beachcitygas.com/ixora1.jpg
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 04 Jan 2004 11:46:05 -0800
Subject: Re: [OT] Re: Computer Help, Please
This is what I did on my 5 year old HP Vectra with Pentium II 350. It
made all the difference in the world.
Now if I can just squeeze a couple of more years out of it...
Brian N.
http://beachcitygas.com/ixora1.jpg
From "timothy bolish" <wt3w at enter.net>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2004 16:46:13 -0500
Subject: Michelin X Radials
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of
Blank Bkgrd.gif]
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2004 17:01:06 -0500
Subject: Re: Dark Blue Dash Color?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick &7& Neves" <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2004 2:35 PM
Subject: Dark Blue Dash Color?
> Does anybody know a source for the dark blue paint used on the dashboard
of a
> Healey Blue BN-2?
>
> Sincerely
>
>
> Rick Neves
> '56 BN-2
From "R.J. Denton" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 04 Jan 2004 17:20:55 -0600
Subject: Re: Michelin X Radials
Bob Denton
timothy bolish wrote:
> BlankHas anybody recently purchased any Michelin X Radials. I have been
> looking for some for my 100-4 and have come up empty handed. A few places
> advertised that they carry them but when you call them they are back-ordered
> with no set delivery or dont carry them anymore. For you Concours Guys, what
> tires are you using and I guess other then the Michelin X Radials your going
> to take a 4pt hit.
> Thanks,
> Tim
From HealeyBN4 at aol.com
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2004 18:03:50 EST
Subject: 100 For Sale on eBay
I inspected the Red AH 100 for sale on eBay, yesterday. If any one is
interested in the car, please contact me and I will provide my opinion.
Cheers, Pete Sturtevant
BN1 under restoration
RHD BN4
AN5 wife's toy
From RAWDAWGS at aol.com
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2004 18:40:33 EST
Subject: shipping a tranny
Scott McPherson
BN4Longbridge
From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2004 18:42:45 -0500
Subject: Re: 100 For Sale on eBay
Hi, Pete --
Just looking at the listing raises a minor red flag with me. When a seller
uses the word "mint" to describe a car that clearly isn't, it casts doubt on
anything else he might say about it, that is, you now have to wonder what
else he might be misrepresenting. Of course, in this case, confusion between
years and models isn't exactly a credibility enhancer, either.
Still, at the right price...
--
John Miller
From "R.J. Denton" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 04 Jan 2004 19:15:52 -0600
Subject: Re: shipping a tranny
Here is the best way to ship a tranny.
http://www.scribnerplastics.com/sztrans.htm
It's reusable, over and over.
Bob Denton
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 11:30:20 +1100
Subject: RE: Merry Christmas to all.
Of course 2004 started in this part of the world way before most parts.
However I seem to recall that we do have a member of the list in New
Zealand so he would have been a couple of hours before me.
Did I jump into the BN3 at 12.01 am on New Year's Day?
Sorry youse guys this year I didn't. It still slumbers within its
Carcoon.
Thankfully there are no bushfires this year (50ft away two years back
was just too close) but it is bloody hot. It's been around 35 degrees C
in the shade over the last few days and after 32 years of Austin-Healey
ownership I know it's only mad dogs and Englishmen who go out in the
mid-day sun in their Austin-Healeys.
HOWEVER I will make claim to be the first owner to be working on their
car in 2004.
I am slowly disassembling the front suspension of my Healey Duncan and
there I was at 9am on New Years Day with Withworth spanner in hand
fettling away.
Wish there was a Healey workshop manual.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia (Where rumour has it that it's due to rain tomorrow)
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
-----Original Message-----
From: bn1@pacbell.net [mailto:bn1@pacbell.net]
Sent: Friday, 26 December 2003 1:33 AM
To: Healey
Subject: Merry Christmas to all.
Have a great holiday, everyone!
And, Mr. Patrick Quinn, as usual we'll all be waiting for your report of
the first Healey drive in the new year.
Bill Barnett
Santa Ana, CA
BN1 #663
PS: It's currently raining here in "sunny Southern California"! :-(
**********************************************************************
This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain
privileged information or confidential information or both. If you
are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender.
**********************************************************************
From robert.j.anderson at att.net
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 05 Jan 2004 00:50:22 +0000
Subject: 100/6 Hardtop Thanks
Jerry Anderson
BN4L 36381
Greensboro, NC
From "Scott Willis" <ahpowered at hotmail.com>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2004 18:54:49 -0600
Subject: Re: Michelin X Radials
I checked everywhere also.
Cheers,
Scott
Mashed BN7
----- Original Message -----
From: "R.J. Denton" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "timothy bolish" <wt3w@enter.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2004 5:20 PM
Subject: Re: Michelin X Radials
> Keep on checking with Coker. They now own the molds. They bought them from
Michelin a while
> ago.
>
> Bob Denton
>
> timothy bolish wrote:
>
> > BlankHas anybody recently purchased any Michelin X Radials. I have been
> > looking for some for my 100-4 and have come up empty handed. A few
places
> > advertised that they carry them but when you call them they are
back-ordered
> > with no set delivery or dont carry them anymore. For you Concours Guys,
what
> > tires are you using and I guess other then the Michelin X Radials your
going
> > to take a 4pt hit.
> > Thanks,
> > Tim
From GSFuqua1 at aol.com
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2004 20:06:22 EST
Subject: Re: shipping a tranny
http://www.scribnerplastics.com/sztrans.htm
Good luck, it will cost you some bucks anyway you go!!
Gary Fuqua
Branson, Missouri
From "Kent McLean" <kentmclean at mindspring.com>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2004 20:22:04 -0500
Subject: Re: Computer Help, Please
You can run defrag multiple times. If your system is/was
really bad, running it another 2 or 3 times will improve
it even more. Then run it again every 3 months or so.
You may have other, non-virus progams loaded on
your system. These do things like report back to a web
site for marketing purposes. Run SpyBot (free) to see
what else is running on your system, and clean it up.
http://www.safer-networking.org/
You can and should run that weekly; you'll be amazed
at what keeps coming back to haunt you.
And as someone suggested, more memory is always
a good thing.
HTH,
Kent
'56 100 BN2
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2004 18:56:07 -0800 (PST)
Subject: 6cyl Euro STEERING COLUMN LOCK for sale on Ebay!
I don't remember who it was on the list that was
looking for this item... but there is one on ebay for
sale. You NEVER see these things anywhere... so if
you want it you better get it!
No financial interest... just passing info along...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34204&item=2451811094
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
From Dave Carpenter <d.carpenter7 at verizon.net>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 04 Jan 2004 23:21:08 -0500
Subject: Re: Restoration Update
Dave
60 BT7 in pieces
67 BJ8 to drive
From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 00:56:36 -0600
Subject: Re: shipping a tranny
Tranny was shipped in a specially constructed crate mounted solidly to wood
by its bell housing bolts. However, the casing had apparently deteriorated
to the point of being very brittle.
I reported the damage to the shipper, they said it had to be reported by the
seller, so I told him and he reported it. They came out and picked up the
tranny, my wife was home, not me so I didn't get a chance to talk to them
about it. I was very concerned that they had picked it up, their website
explained that their procedure was to examine for damage and how it was
packed to determine whether insurance kicked in. I called the next day
explaining that I wanted the tranny back as it had parts I could't get
elsewhere even if the casing was cracked and damged in shipping. They
assured me I would get it back.
After a couple of days the seller called to tell me it had been returned to
him and that they had basically thrown it around without any packing and now
it was really trashed.
I had taken time of off work to replace my tranny, or rebuild using the best
of both tranny's.
UPS would not do a thing for me and refused to pay the insurance claim for
the shipper. The seller was a good guy and refunded my money, but I still
didn't have the rare tranny I needed, UPS basically felt no obligation to me
at all, I felt they had delivered something to me and I had payed for it.
To take it away without my permission and then refuse to ship it back
bordered on criminal, had the seller been dishonest my situation would have
been even worse.
I will not do any business with UPS to this day, which is my deal, as far as
relevance to the original questions, I guess it is carefully pack according
to shippers requirements for insurance, and my opnion, don't use "brown" as
they like to call themselves, an appropriate color for their level of
customer service, which is *&^%!.
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 09:28:07 -0500
Subject: Re: 100 For Sale on eBay
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2004 6:42 PM
Subject: Re: 100 For Sale on eBay
> On Sunday, January 04, 2004 6:03 pm, HealeyBN4@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > I inspected the Red AH 100 for sale on eBay, yesterday. If any one is
> > interested in the car, please contact me and I will provide my opinion.
>
> Hi, Pete --
>
> Just looking at the listing raises a minor red flag with me. When a
seller
> uses the word "mint" to describe a car that clearly isn't, it casts doubt
on
> anything else he might say about it, that is, you now have to wonder what
> else he might be misrepresenting. Of course, in this case, confusion
between
> years and models isn't exactly a credibility enhancer, either.
>
> Still, at the right price...
> --
> John Miller
From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 09:40:45 -0600
Subject: RE: tube shocks
-----Original Message-----
From: KingR44916@aol.com [mailto:KingR44916@aol.com]
Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2004 8:04 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: tube shocks
was wondering if anyone has gone with the tube shock conversion kit
thats
available let me know what you think.
From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 11:08:24 -0600
Subject: Re: shipping a tranny
from a prior/similar experience.....................HoYo
From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 11:22:47 -0600
Subject: Re: shipping a tranny
From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 09:23:10 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Hop Up advice sought
__________________________________
Free Pop-Up Blocker - Get it now
http://companion.yahoo.com/
From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 13:24:13 EST
Subject: Re: tube shocks
From "Len and/or Marge" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 10:36:20 -0800
Subject: Re: shipping a tranny
If any of you served in Southeast Asia, you may remember that the hot item
to ship home was ceramic elephants. These were about 18" long, a foot
tall, and about 9" wide. Very fragile. Early on, these were crated for
shipment. The result - most were broken in transit.
The solution? Tie a tag around the elephants' trunks and ship them without
any packaging whatsoever. When the handlers could see what they were
handling, they treated them with extreme care. Most got through without
damage.
The weight difference between a ceramic elephant and an AH trany may have
some bearing on feasibilty, as well as shipper's rules, but it worked for
elephants!!
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA
1967 3000 MKIII HBJ8L39031
From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 10:50:34 -0800
Subject: RE: Bonnet (hood) louvres
From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 11:11:32 -0800
Subject: RE: cam regrind or trash
http://www.elgincams.com/
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 11:17:04 -0800
Subject: DH of America
From "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid at hotmail.com>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 06 Jan 2004 01:14:38 +0000
Subject: Jackie Cooper and Ship & Shore Motors
Thanks.
Reid
Reid Trummel
Portland, Oregon
100, 100M, Bugeye, Ski-Master
_________________________________________________________________
Tired of slow downloads? Compare online deals from your local high-speed
providers now. https://broadband.msn.com
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 21:37:42 -0500
Subject: BN2 Pieces Needed
From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 08:24:36 -0500
Subject: Alfin drums
I'm seeking out sources for having a second pair made. There are two concerns,
one in England, the other in Canada, which make special order Alfin drums for
MG T series and a number of other cars, although the product in both cases
appears to have straight turned down sides which makes fabrication much easier
(not the case with the AH drums). Has anyone gone through this before? Have
molds been made?
Are there any engineers or metalurgists on the list who know about casting
aluminum? What is the shrinkage factor? (I've had cast iron parts made for
non-automotive projects, and the loss is ~3%). With a brake drum, I assume the
overall diameter would not be severely affected, but a bit of loss on the wall
thickness might be risky. Possibly the loss might be compensated by building
up a temporary coating on the exemplar when making the mold? Any thoughts?
I spoke with Dennis Welch's staff about re-doing the drums, and got the
impression that there was insufficient demand. Now that so many 100's are
being M-spec'd, might there be a higher interest? I doubt these would be
inexpensive to fabricate, as the shape is complex, the fins are well finished,
and there is an inner liner to fabricate.
If reality governs, do I put these on the front, the back or hang them on the
wall?
Allen Miller BN2/M
From "Bill Browning" <gbrowning at carolina.rr.com>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 09:20:29 -0500
Subject: enameling for healey marque on front of BH8
thanks,
Bill B
Charlotte
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 02:07:45 +1100
Subject: Re: Alfin drums
Short answer - hang them on the wall.
Long answer - I think that the only 'Alfin' drums were to suit a BN1. Not a
BN2.
There are certain subtle differences between a 100M 'BN2' and a 'Le Mans
option kit BN1".
50 odd years ago - Alfin Healey front 100/4 drums for a BN1 were a failure -
from a reliability / performance perspective.
The metallurgy was agricultural. There were 2 kinds of 'aluminium outer-
cast iron inner'- drums. Radial finned (like a BJ8 rear in terms of
direction of fins - but BJ8 are all cast iron). These fins ran parallel to
the outside edge of the drum - and I can't remember the correct name for the
'other' ones but their fins are 90degrees opposite to the radial fins - more
like 'watermill blades' - which are closer in spec to the rear 'Alfin' drums
available for eg minis in the 1960's.
I've seen both 'styles'. But I've never seen a 'useable' pair.
Short answer is that "Alfin' drums are a poor solution to a racing problem,
which was a brake overheating problem - caused by lack of surface area and
heat build-up, in a 1.75in wide, 11in diameter front drum in the mid 1950's.
If you look at the healey FRONT (where the action is) brake evolution......
1. BN1 has very narrow front drum brakes (1.75in wide).
2. BN1 brakes were inadequate for motor racing - they overheated - so they
came up with an optional finned aluminium FRONT brake drums - primarily to
be able to sell a an upgrade to 'existing' BN1 owners. But they were a
disaster - expansion rates of different metals wasn't really cured until
rotary engines were mainstream in the 1970s. So alfin drums - on the front -
in high temperature applications in the 1950's - was a disaster. The outer
aluminium 'heatsink' didn't remain bonded to the cast iron brake surface.
Well - sometimes they did - then the cracking through the cast iron
appeared..........
3 BN2 brakes - were the same diameter as BN1 - but 1/2in wider (2.125). I
don't think Alfin Drums were ever offered by the factory for BN2 cars - to
my knowledge - from memory. There may have been later aftermarket optional
'alfin' drums.
If you do the maths - a 1/2 inch width increase (from 1.75 to 2.125in) in
brake surface area (calculated as an increase on a 1.75in wide lining) is
HUGE.
4. Same for 100/6 - BN2 front drums (No alfin option offered?)
5. Same for most big "c" series based, drum braked (egA95) sedans. (i.e.
there was no 2.125 alfin option offered - just BN2 front size?)
6. FRONT Disc Brakes introduced for 3000/ FRONT Discs on big 'modern' BMC
sedans like Wolseley 6/100
7. Bigger (thicker front disc brakes) - and radial finned cast iron REAR
drums (not Alfin) on BJ8.
I'm doing this at 1.00am - without a parts book, by memory - so please be
gentle if I didn't remember something as accurately as it got written down.
Basically - there are no "100M BN2" 2.125 ALFIN drums. Well - not in 'the
period' - as far as I know.
Paint your existing 2.125 cast iron drums aluminium/ silver. Rebuild to
'std' spec if you want the car to stop as per road tests of the era. If you
want it to stop better - fit discs/ and better (kevlar etc) 2003 lining
materials.
But Alfin drums, on the front of a Non-disc-braked-Healey - are show - not
go - and are probably dangerous if they are original. And I really don't
think that they are 'original', nor were they an 'option' on a BN2 100M
Chris
(who also has an early - 12th delivered into Australia - BN1, which was
raced extensively 1954 - 1958 and was fitted with a '100M kit" in 1956)
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
IMPORTANT: This email is intended for the use of the individual
addressee(s) named above and may contain information that is
confidential, privileged or unsuitable for overly sensitive persons with
no sense of humour or irrational religious or environmental beliefs. If
you are not the intended recipient, any dissemination, distribution or
copying of this email is not authorised and would be deemed to be
both an annoyance, and an irritating social faux pas. Mate.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2004 12:24 AM
Subject: Alfin drums
> I have bought -- I think -- a pair of original Alfin drums identical to
the
> 100's Special Equipment booklet. I understand that these were reproduced
by
> Dennis Welch in the past. Does anyone know how to tell the difference?
>
> I'm seeking out sources for having a second pair made. There are two
concerns,
> one in England, the other in Canada, which make special order Alfin drums
for
> MG T series and a number of other cars, although the product in both cases
> appears to have straight turned down sides which makes fabrication much
easier
> (not the case with the AH drums). Has anyone gone through this before?
Have
> molds been made?
>
> Are there any engineers or metalurgists on the list who know about casting
> aluminum? What is the shrinkage factor? (I've had cast iron parts made for
> non-automotive projects, and the loss is ~3%). With a brake drum, I assume
the
> overall diameter would not be severely affected, but a bit of loss on the
wall
> thickness might be risky. Possibly the loss might be compensated by
building
> up a temporary coating on the exemplar when making the mold? Any thoughts?
>
> I spoke with Dennis Welch's staff about re-doing the drums, and got the
> impression that there was insufficient demand. Now that so many 100's are
> being M-spec'd, might there be a higher interest? I doubt these would be
> inexpensive to fabricate, as the shape is complex, the fins are well
finished,
> and there is an inner liner to fabricate.
>
> If reality governs, do I put these on the front, the back or hang them on
the
> wall?
>
> Allen Miller BN2/M
From "Rick &7& Neves" <Rick at genomictechnologies.com>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 10:12:24 -0500
Subject: Gas line runs for 100-4
My vehicle did not have these installed when I got it and the pump that came
with it was a replacement so the bends were probably modified.
Also, does the tank have an elbow installed at the outlet or does the tubing
make a 90 degree bend?
This is for a '56 BN-2 100-4
Thanks
Rick Neves
'56 BN-2
_._
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.557 / Virus Database: 349 - Release Date: 12/30/2003
From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 10:12:47 -0500
Subject: enameling for healey marque on front of BH8
thanks,
Bill B
Charlotte
Bill, the list has already covered the subject, look into the
archives under "cloisonne" the last "e" has a french accent aigu (to
the right). It's a process where the red enamel is baked on. The
easiest way to fix it is to get a better badge, though. Cheers,
--
Alain Giguere
BN7 Bits
From "David Zuiderveld" <davzu29 at earthlink.net>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 10:19:05 -0500
Subject: Re: enameling for healey marque on front of BH8
I had this saved from an old e-mial. I hope it helps.
DavidZ.
PD Enamels,
1 New Street
Chulmleigh
Devon EX18 7DB
UK
Tel & Fax 00 44 (0)1769 520536
No email that I'm aware of. Rang just now to enquire and only got answering
machine that suggested "leave message or fax same no."
They will
Strip your badge.
Remove any blemishes to metal.
Rechrome and replace cloisonne. (or is it other way round?)
Return your badge as new.
My MkII badge came back looking perfect.
Not cheap - can't remember, but if you want cheap buy a repro.
Took about 4 weeks.
From Alan Bromfield <Alan.Bromfield at ntl.com>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 15:27:03 -0000
Subject: RE: enameling for healey marque on front of BH8
These people are the best in the world. They are specialists. An Archive
search throws up their old address and contact details.
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/alan.bromfield/PD%20Enamels.gif
Alan Bromfield
New Forest AHC
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Browning [mailto:gbrowning@carolina.rr.com]
Sent: 06 January 2004 14:20
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: enameling for healey marque on front of BH8
does anyone have suggestions on who repairs the healey marque that goes on
the front of BJ8, the "red enameling" is coming off.
thanks,
Bill B
Charlotte
The contents of this email and any attachments are sent for the personal
attention
of the addressee(s) only and may be confidential. If you are not the intended
addressee, any use, disclosure or copying of this email and any attachments is
unauthorised - please notify the sender by return and delete the message. Any
representations or commitments expressed in this email are subject to contract.
ntl Group Limited
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of PD
Enamels.gif]
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 07:41:36 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Alfin drums
SC Parts had made a batch of 100 alfin drums about 5
years ago, but they stopped making them because they
had a problem with the steel liner delaminating from
the aluminum drum. I suspect anyone you have make
them will will have a similar problem. I talked to SC
Parts last year and they said they still had one repro
drum in stock, but they refused to sell it to me. To
be frank, the guy on the phone wasn't exactly a nice
guy.
I might suggest just sniffing around the usual UK or
OZ places and see if you can find a pair of used
ones... last time I checked all the ones out there
were well worn (as most of them were used on racers).
Good Luck -
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
wrote:
> I have bought -- I think -- a pair of original Alfin
> drums identical to the
> 100's Special Equipment booklet. I understand that
> these were reproduced by
> Dennis Welch in the past. Does anyone know how to
> tell the difference?
>
> I'm seeking out sources for having a second pair
> made. There are two concerns,
> one in England, the other in Canada, which make
> special order Alfin drums for
> MG T series and a number of other cars, although the
> product in both cases
> appears to have straight turned down sides which
> makes fabrication much easier
> (not the case with the AH drums). Has anyone gone
> through this before? Have
> molds been made?
>
> Are there any engineers or metalurgists on the list
> who know about casting
> aluminum? What is the shrinkage factor? (I've had
> cast iron parts made for
> non-automotive projects, and the loss is ~3%). With
> a brake drum, I assume the
> overall diameter would not be severely affected, but
> a bit of loss on the wall
> thickness might be risky. Possibly the loss might be
> compensated by building
> up a temporary coating on the exemplar when making
> the mold? Any thoughts?
>
> I spoke with Dennis Welch's staff about re-doing the
> drums, and got the
> impression that there was insufficient demand. Now
> that so many 100's are
> being M-spec'd, might there be a higher interest? I
> doubt these would be
> inexpensive to fabricate, as the shape is complex,
> the fins are well finished,
> and there is an inner liner to fabricate.
>
> If reality governs, do I put these on the front, the
> back or hang them on the
> wall?
>
> Allen Miller BN2/M
From Brian Mix <brianmix at cox.net>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 06 Jan 2004 08:27:30 -0800
Subject: Re: Alfin drums
You could buy 2 of the rear BN1 and put them on the front of your BN2 I guess
BUT...
I had a terrible problem with warping on my front set (BN1) The vibration
would build at braking until it felt like the car would shake apart. I had
the Alfins turned round twice! Each time the vibration was gone, but came
back faster than before.
They do make beautiful ashtrays.
Alfins are only good for stopping the car on and off the trailer at shows.
Do Not Drive them.
BrianM
'55 100-Lemans
http://members.cox.net/brianmix/healey100/default.html
At 07:41 AM 1/6/2004, you wrote:
>Allen -
>
>SC Parts had made a batch of 100 alfin drums about 5
>years ago, but they stopped making them because they
>had a problem with the steel liner delaminating from
>the aluminum drum. I suspect anyone you have make
>them will will have a similar problem. I talked to SC
>Parts last year and they said they still had one repro
>drum in stock, but they refused to sell it to me. To
>be frank, the guy on the phone wasn't exactly a nice
>guy.
>
>I might suggest just sniffing around the usual UK or
>OZ places and see if you can find a pair of used
>ones... last time I checked all the ones out there
>were well worn (as most of them were used on racers).
>
>Good Luck -
>
>Alan
>
>'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
>--- "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
>wrote:
> > I have bought -- I think -- a pair of original Alfin
> > drums identical to the
> > 100's Special Equipment booklet. I understand that
> > these were reproduced by
> > Dennis Welch in the past. Does anyone know how to
> > tell the difference?
> >
> > I'm seeking out sources for having a second pair
> > made. There are two concerns,
> > one in England, the other in Canada, which make
> > special order Alfin drums for
> > MG T series and a number of other cars, although the
> > product in both cases
> > appears to have straight turned down sides which
> > makes fabrication much easier
> > (not the case with the AH drums). Has anyone gone
> > through this before? Have
> > molds been made?
> >
> > Are there any engineers or metalurgists on the list
> > who know about casting
> > aluminum? What is the shrinkage factor? (I've had
> > cast iron parts made for
> > non-automotive projects, and the loss is ~3%). With
> > a brake drum, I assume the
> > overall diameter would not be severely affected, but
> > a bit of loss on the wall
> > thickness might be risky. Possibly the loss might be
> > compensated by building
> > up a temporary coating on the exemplar when making
> > the mold? Any thoughts?
> >
> > I spoke with Dennis Welch's staff about re-doing the
> > drums, and got the
> > impression that there was insufficient demand. Now
> > that so many 100's are
> > being M-spec'd, might there be a higher interest? I
> > doubt these would be
> > inexpensive to fabricate, as the shape is complex,
> > the fins are well finished,
> > and there is an inner liner to fabricate.
> >
> > If reality governs, do I put these on the front, the
> > back or hang them on the
> > wall?
> >
> > Allen Miller BN2/M
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 06 Jan 2004 08:44:12 -0800
Subject: Re: enameling for healey marque on front of BH8
If you are looking for someone to do this in the US, there is a company
in Ohio called Emblemagic that appears to specialize in enamel or
cloisonne badges. I have not used their service but just offering up the
info. in case anyone is looking for an additional source. Lots of
pictures and info at the following site:
http://www.emblemagic.com
Cheers,
John
p.s. Bill, let me know if you see this message on the Healey list ...
last few messages sent to the list I never see again.
Bill Browning wrote:
>does anyone have suggestions on who repairs the healey marque that goes on
>the front of BJ8, the "red enameling" is coming off.
From Stella67 at aol.com
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 06 Jan 2004 12:55:23 -0500
Subject: Re: enameling for healey marque on front of BH8
Thanks,
John
John
From KingR44916 at aol.com
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 15:36:03 EST
Subject: smitty conversion
From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 07 Jan 2004 08:55:13 +1100
Subject: Re: Alfin drums
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 17:42:23 -0600
Subject: Re: enameling for healey marque on front of BH8
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 19:38:37 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: enameling for healey marque on front of BH8
yes, that was me.
I also found out that Hemphills has the same ones as
well. With the US Dollar going in the toilet you may
want to check both Hemphills (US) and AH Spares (UK)
for the best price - its an expensive item at over
$100.
Regards,
Alan
--- Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net> wrote:
> didn't someone on the list recently mention that ah
> spares now had these in reproduction ?
> Bill Browning wrote:
> >
> > does anyone have suggestions on who repairs the
> healey marque that goes on
> > the front of BJ8, the "red enameling" is coming
> off.
> >
> > thanks,
> > Bill B
> > Charlotte
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 20:21:44 -0800
Subject: Re: Gas line runs for 100-4
Would appreciate photos ... softcopy is fine.
TIA,
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick &7& Neves" <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 06, 2004 7:12 AM
Subject: Gas line runs for 100-4
> Does anyone have a picture depicting the gas line connections to and from the
> gas tank and fuel pump? I want to get the bends right.
>
> My vehicle did not have these installed when I got it and the pump that came
> with it was a replacement so the bends were probably modified.
>
> Also, does the tank have an elbow installed at the outlet or does the tubing
> make a 90 degree bend?
>
> This is for a '56 BN-2 100-4
> Thanks
>
>
> Rick Neves
> '56 BN-2
From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 00:02:38 EST
Subject: Re: Gas line runs for 100-4
RESTORATION PHOTOGRAPH SETS
100-M....this car has just had a ground up restoration , the photos were
taken just before the engine was installed , shows interior , exterior ,
underhood and engine compartment .... 53 PICTURES - $ 35.00
BN2 . BN4 . BT7 . BJ7 ,these sets start with a freshly painted chassis to a
finished show quality car . there are close up shots of the bare chassis then
with the wiring and brake lines installed , location of relays , linkage ,
clips , interior upholstery , trunk area , external shots and much more .
BN2.... 110 pictures $66.00
BN4 .... 75 PICTURES - $ 45.00
BT7 .... 120 PICTURES - $ 72.00
BJ7 .... 90 PICTURES - $ 52.00
KILMARTIN'S NEW FRAME , 24 close up shots . BN4 - BJ7 -- $ 28.00
Add $4.00 S & H per set within the U.S Norman Nock
British Car Specialists 2060 N Wilson Way , Stockton , CA 95205
(209)948-8767 FAX # (209) 948 - 1030
From "Andy" <healey-100 at hawaii.rr.com>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 22:44:49 -1000
Subject: Dennis welsh web page problem.
---------------------------------------------------------------------
"Are you still wasting your time with spam?...
There is a solution!"
Protected by GIANT Company's Spam Inspector
The most powerful anti-spam software available.
http://mail.spaminspector.com
From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 10:28:03 +0000
Subject: Re: Dennis welsh web page problem.
Just phoned DWM - they are unaware of any problem with their web site,
and have not changed the web address. I can't get it either, here in the
UK, so it looks like the problem is nearer their end than yours.
Suggest be patient - they are "looking into it".
--
Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
Webmaster for the UK's national Austin Healey Club at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 11:57:23 +0000
Subject: Re: Dennis welsh web page problem.
Actually, just tried "www.bighealey.com", rather than
"www.bighealey.co.uk", and got straight in.
I think they have changed, but perhaps a long time ago. I'll update the
link on our Links web page.
--
Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
Webmaster for the UK's national Austin Healey Club at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
From Rick Neville <healeyrick at yahoo.com>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 04:31:16 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: DH of America
I knew this rang a bell! In the June, 2003 issue of
Healey Marque there's a story by Sprite Guy Steve Bell
about factory Sprite racer John Colgate who had a
Mercedes dealership on Long Island and was the
exclusive American distributor for Healey speed
equipment. He operated under the name of "Donald
Healey America" I had an opportunity to meet Mr.
Colgate at a party he threw for drivers and crew at
the Healey Challenge in Lime Rock. He is truly a
gentleman with some great Healey stories.
Happy Healeying,
Rick
--- "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com> wrote:
> I came across a Eastern USA Healey racer in a
> Watkins Glen race program from
> the mid 60's that had Donald Healey America listed
> as the entrant for a
> 3000. Has anyone heard of this organization? This
> race doesn't appear to be
> more than a club event.
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8
>
>
__________________________________
Yahoo! Hotjobs: Enter the "Signing Bonus" Sweepstakes
http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/signingbonus
From "Jack Feldman" <qualitas at millenicom.com>
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 07:28:06 -0600
Subject: Sun Roof Help Needed
Someone told me that in the past a magazine ran an article about installing a
sun roof on a GT. I have the kit, and would appreciate it if anyone has the
magazine they would contact me.
Thanks,
Jack
From MBran89793 at aol.com
From: "Lee and Marti" <leemar@bendcable.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 08:41:48 EST
Subject: Re: Sun Roof Help Needed
From "Jack Feldman" <qualitas at millenicom.com>
From: Jack Feldman
To: mgs@autox ; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 07:49:25 -0600
Subject: Sun Roof Help Needed
Folks,
Someone told me that in the past a magazine ran an article about installing a
sun roof on a GT. I have the kit, and would appreciate it if anyone has the
magazine they would contact me.
Thanks,
Jack
From "Jack Feldman" <qualitas at millenicom.com>
From: Jack Feldman
To: mgs@autox ; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 07:51:29 -0600
Subject: oops, and applogy
SSOORRYY!
Jack
From "Vink, Graham" <vinkg at fleishman.com>
From: Jack Feldman
To: mgs@autox ; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 08:01:08 -0600
Subject: Re mistaken MG posting
:)
Graham
From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: Jack Feldman
To: mgs@autox ; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 12:27:49 -0600
Subject: need battery tray measurements!, need trunk lid!
buddy Karl's BT-7 and one for my BJ-7.
Also, my buddy Karl can't seem to get his trunk lid to fit for crap. He is
having a hard time with it bending up or down on the corners. After many hours
of work he has thrown in the towel and is now looking for a better trunk lid,
with no rust. His email is lethal4@tds.net, or you can just email me back.
I have been doing a lot or work on my Healey the past month. I gave my
girlfriend a ring for Christmas so she has been good about letting me go out to
the garage for extended periods of time. However, now I have less money for
parts, thus I have to make my own battery tray. I have my entire rear inner
sheet metal installed and painted now. Now for the bodywork and mechanicals.
My buddy Karl is coming up from Milwaukee at the end of the month for panel
beating and bodywork. Lots of hammer swingin' and beer can liftin'. Thanks in
advance for any and all advice. Cheers!
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
Sturgeon Bay, WI.
63 BJ-7
From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: Jack Feldman
To: mgs@autox ; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 13:44:38 EST
Subject: Re: enameling for healey marque on front of BH8
From "Bill Browning" <gbrowning at carolina.rr.com>
From: Jack Feldman
To: mgs@autox ; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 13:46:52 -0500
Subject: searching for totally restored BJ8
thanks,
Bill B
Charlotte
From James Sailer <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: Jack Feldman
To: mgs@autox ; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 07 Jan 2004 15:19:07 -0700
Subject: Re: Tube Shocks
Seemed to go in ok.... a bit of fidgitting to get it in to my satisfaction
but apparently well made... adjustable shocks... went in with my uprated
front shocks and 7/8 rose-jointed sway bar....
Jim Sailer 66 BJ8
From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: Jack Feldman
To: mgs@autox ; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 18:21:37 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Not AH - shop air compressors
__________________________________
Yahoo! Hotjobs: Enter the "Signing Bonus" Sweepstakes
http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/signingbonus
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: Jack Feldman
To: mgs@autox ; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 07 Jan 2004 18:33:58 -0800
Subject: Re: Not AH - shop air compressors
Brian N.
From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: Jack Feldman
To: mgs@autox ; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 18:45:37 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Not AH - shop air compressors
__________________________________
Yahoo! Hotjobs: Enter the "Signing Bonus" Sweepstakes
http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/signingbonus
From "Rick" <webmasterrick at comcast.net>
From: Jack Feldman
To: mgs@autox ; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 21:21:08 -0600
Subject: TV?
Convert - Red plus a White one and Florida Green? ???
Reid?? Gary???
Rick
PS: The A-M was not "bad" either -:)
From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: Jack Feldman
To: mgs@autox ; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 07:56:19 -0600
Subject: Pulling an engine for the paint shop
I am not going to do a rebuild on the motor since I don't believe it needs
it, but I an going to clean and paint it. Anything else I should look from
the while I'm at it department?
Patton
-------------------------------------
Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
1957 Austin-Healey BN4
Website http://www.austin-healeys.com/
For Sale - 1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert
From Rebeltown at aol.com
From: Jack Feldman
To: mgs@autox ; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 09:37:59 EST
Subject: Re: Pulling an engine for the paint shop
Gary Shunk '67 BJ8 #38427 N.J.
From N0040 at aol.com
From: Jack Feldman
To: mgs@autox ; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 09:53:40 EST
Subject: Re: TV?
Shop was supposed to be a first class, high quality body shop, and naturally
they had AH 3000s as the background props, which obviously indicates that high
quality.
Wonder who on the list might own those. I think you get a pretty nice check
for allowing them to be used on shows (and in movies). Any listers?
Regards,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: Jack Feldman
To: mgs@autox ; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 09:33:03 -0600
Subject: 4 BOLT X 4.5" CIRCLE X 15" MINIMLIE WHEELS - HELP
Jack
From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: Jack Feldman
To: mgs@autox ; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 10:37:12 -0600
Subject: Re: Not AH - shop air compressors
by the tools that you are using. I don't knwo why the nimber of tanks should
make a different, it is volume of stored air that is important as well as CFM.
They almost all put out about the same psi. My big compressor puts out
something like 11CFM, my smaller 5hp unit puts out 9CFM.
Randy Dickson
Healey Archeologist
63 BJ-7
Sturgeon Bay, WI.
Quoting joe mulqueen <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>:
> I won't be using it for painting. It'll be primarily
> for these tasks:
> Minor die grinding/polishing on my cyl head.
> Blowing crud out of my brake calipers as I rebuild
> 'em.
> Blowing crud/water out of my engine block as I rebuild
> it.
> Regards,
> JoeM
> --- Brian N <brian@beachcitygas.com> wrote:
> > Not sure why the number of tanks. But as a bit of
> > personal experience
> > (for what it is worth), many air tools and paint
> > spray equipment need
> > five horsepower to work right. Be sure to check the
> > requirements of
> > your equipment before buying the compressor.
> >
> > Brian N.
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: Jack Feldman
To: mgs@autox ; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 08 Jan 2004 09:03:30 -0800
Subject: Re: Pulling an engine for the paint shop
Cheers,
John
BJ7 under restoration (so I can joke about this!)
Patton Dickson wrote:
> Anything else I should look from
>the while I'm at it department?
From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: Jack Feldman
To: mgs@autox ; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 10:06:57 -0800 (PST)
Subject: re. Re: Not AH - shop air compressors
__________________________________
Yahoo! Hotjobs: Enter the "Signing Bonus" Sweepstakes
http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/signingbonus
From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: Jack Feldman
To: mgs@autox ; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 13:18:25 -0600
Subject: RE: Pulling an engine for the paint shop
Since this is not a restoration, and money is an issue, I will have to
figure out what level of detail I am satisfied. Currently the body and
cockpit are red, and the chassis and engine bay are the original black. The
new paint job will be body, cockpit, and engine bay only. I will do a two
tone paint job, but the final combo is up for debate. The chassis will be
protected by POR-15.
The overall consensus is that I should do this myself so I will have time to
work on the details. The negative (and a good one) is that I am responsible
if I scratch the paint putting the engine back in.
>From the responses I have gotten, I think the minimum that I need to do
while the engine is out is replace the wiring harness, all rubber mounts,
bushings, hoses (heat, water, clutch & brakes), firewall insulation, and the
clutch.
I have a neighbor who I have not met that has I engine crane in his garage,
so I will have meet him, if not I can rent. There is the engine leveler
from Harbor Freight, I will also get.
2 TON CAPACITY LOAD LEVELER 42356-1VGA
www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42356
I have an engine stand, but is that the best thing for this job? Is an
engine cart better? I don't really have anywhere to place the motor and
transmission except the ground, and I have never worked on a motor that
weighed anywhere near as much as this one does.
Thanks
Patton
-------------------------------------
Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
1957 Austin-Healey BN4
Website http://www.austin-healeys.com/
For Sale - 1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: Jack Feldman
To: mgs@autox ; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 08 Jan 2004 11:19:36 -0800
Subject: Re: re. Re: Not AH - shop air compressors
Here's what I found out:
Sure the tool will work at the lower cfm. They rate 'em low so more
people think they've got a sufficient air supply. (Bigger sales
market). The truth is, yes it will work, but it will work REALLY well
with 5 or more hp pushing a lot more cfm to it. This might come to
light when you are grunting through a job with a dinky compressor.
But more importantly, you may (will? need to?) expand your array of air
tools as time goes on, and a big compressor means lots of capability and
options.
Now, just to make car people drool, I plumbed air around my garage with
variuous and multiple air taps, as well as a hose reel just inside the
garage door. This idea I copied from a neighbor who has machine tools
in his garage. Wow, it this set up handy!
Anyway, go for the most, the best, and the handiest! You will never
regret spending a few extra bucks. Spinning off sump bolts with one
hand and an air ratchet is really cool! Big jobs get really little with
lots of air and the right tools!
All the best,
Brian N
http://www.beachcitygas.com
From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: Jack Feldman
To: mgs@autox ; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 13:21:23 -0600
Subject: Re: re. Re: Not AH - shop air compressors
cylinder head on my race prepped Mini Cooper. It had two 4 gal tanks. It was
running constantly trying to keep up. The compressor was super hot and likely
suffered a great deal of wear. It would slow down after awhile and I'd have to
stop and let it catch up. I used the same compressor to paint a couple of
cars. It was not really sufficient. Then I bought my own.
I have found that whatever the manufacturer says the tool needs in CFM, it
really needs a lot more. Sanders and die grinders use huge amount of air
volume. My 5hp 20 gal 220V wheeled compressor cannot even run an orbital
sander for long without bogging down and slowing the sander substantially (30-
45 seconds). Thus, I use my upright 6hp 220V compressor with 60gal tank, I
even couple the two tanks together.
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
63 BJ-7
Quoting joe mulqueen <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>:
> Thanks all for the comments, however, why are you guys
> saying I need so much pressure and cfm to operate a
> die grinder? A typical die grinder is rated at 4cfm
> (or less) at 90 psi. If I get a compressor with a
> higher rating (such as 4.2 or 4.5 cfm at 90psi) aren't
> I OK for the task? I'm not going to be using the
> compressor for this day in day out...
> Regards,
> JoeM
> '60 BT7
From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: Jack Feldman
To: mgs@autox ; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 14:50:46 -0600
Subject: Pacific Green over Ivory White
Thanks
Patton
-------------------------------------
Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
1957 Austin-Healey BN4
Website http://www.austin-healeys.com/
For Sale - 1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert
From "Tim Davis" <tld6008 at mchsi.com>
From: Jack Feldman
To: mgs@autox ; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 14:54:36 -0600
Subject: Re: Pulling an engine for the paint shop
Tim Davis BN7
----- Original Message -----
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2004 1:18 PM
Subject: RE: Pulling an engine for the paint shop
> Thanks for all of the responses.
>
> Since this is not a restoration, and money is an issue, I will have to
> figure out what level of detail I am satisfied. Currently the body and
> cockpit are red, and the chassis and engine bay are the original black.
The
> new paint job will be body, cockpit, and engine bay only. I will do a two
> tone paint job, but the final combo is up for debate. The chassis will be
> protected by POR-15.
>
> The overall consensus is that I should do this myself so I will have time
to
> work on the details. The negative (and a good one) is that I am
responsible
> if I scratch the paint putting the engine back in.
>
> From the responses I have gotten, I think the minimum that I need to do
> while the engine is out is replace the wiring harness, all rubber mounts,
> bushings, hoses (heat, water, clutch & brakes), firewall insulation, and
the
> clutch.
>
> I have a neighbor who I have not met that has I engine crane in his
garage,
> so I will have meet him, if not I can rent. There is the engine leveler
> from Harbor Freight, I will also get.
>
> 2 TON CAPACITY LOAD LEVELER 42356-1VGA
> www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42356
>
> I have an engine stand, but is that the best thing for this job? Is an
> engine cart better? I don't really have anywhere to place the motor and
> transmission except the ground, and I have never worked on a motor that
> weighed anywhere near as much as this one does.
>
> Thanks
> Patton
>
> -------------------------------------
> Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
> 1957 Austin-Healey BN4
> Website http://www.austin-healeys.com/
>
> For Sale - 1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert
From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: Jack Feldman
To: mgs@autox ; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 16:11:30 EST
Subject: Item in photo
From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: Jack Feldman
To: mgs@autox ; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 16:14:26 EST
Subject: Re: Pacific Green over Ivory White
Dick Hosmer
HBT7L18556
From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: Jack Feldman
To: mgs@autox ; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 17:00:17 -0500
Subject: Re: re. Re: Not AH - shop air compressors
To paraphrase someone older and wiser, "There are lies, damn lies, and CFM
ratings."
Not to put too fine a point on it, but you'll find that the ratings are
"stretched" both on the tools and the compressors. If you really want the
unvarnished truth (and there's been some pretty good advice in this forum
already), find someone who uses a die grinder day in and day out, and ask
them. Prepare to be amazed.
Just a SWAG: double the rating of the tool, and halve the rating of the
compressor, and you should have sufficient air, as in, the compressor isn't
running all the time, and the tool is operating at full capacity. I hope
that doesn't overstate the case, but I don't think it does.
Best regards, and happy grinding,
--
John Miller
From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: Jack Feldman
To: mgs@autox ; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 17:02:41 -0500
Subject: Re: Pulling an engine for the paint shop
> I have an engine stand, but is that the best thing for this job?
It needs to be a really stout engine stand, with long legs. A stand suitable
for a small V8 is way too small for a heavy straight 6.
--
John Miller
From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: Jack Feldman
To: mgs@autox ; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 14:17:56 -0800
Subject: RE: re. Re: Not AH - shop air compressors
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: Jack Feldman
To: mgs@autox ; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 14:22:01 -0800 (PST)
Subject: RE: Pulling an engine for the paint shop
If you use the Harbor Freight load leveler be sure to
grease the heck out of the screw threads and face the
crank handle toward the back of the car. This is not
intuitive, but ask me how I know :)). You will be
surprised how far you have to lift the engine to get
it to clear the shroud.
If you are "local" you can borrow mine.
Dean (BN7)
..............
> is the engine leveler
> from Harbor Freight, I will also get.
>
> 2 TON CAPACITY LOAD LEVELER 42356-1VGA
>
>
www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42356
>
>
__________________________________
Yahoo! Hotjobs: Enter the "Signing Bonus" Sweepstakes
http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/signingbonus
From Brian Mix <brianmix at cox.net>
From: Jack Feldman
To: mgs@autox ; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 08 Jan 2004 14:33:07 -0800
Subject: Re: Pacific Green over Ivory White
http://www.sdhealey.org/hog/hogpics/Pic20017.jpg
http://www.sdhealey.org/hog/hogpics/Pic20018.jpg
http://www.sdhealey.org/hog/hogpics/Pic20019.jpg
http://www.sdhealey.org/hog/hogpics/Pic20020.jpg
or this
http://www.sdhealey.org/hog/hogpics/Pic30006.jpg
http://www.sdhealey.org/hog/hogpics/Pic30007.jpg
http://www.sdhealey.org/hog/hogpics/Pic30008.jpg
BrianM
At 12:50 PM 1/8/2004, Patton Dickson wrote:
>Can any send me or point me to a picture of a Pacific Green over Ivory White
>100-6 or 3000. I am seriously considering this color combination, but a
>good picture may make me decide either way.
>
>Thanks
>Patton
>
>-------------------------------------
>Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
>1957 Austin-Healey BN4
>Website http://www.austin-healeys.com/
>
>For Sale - 1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert
From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Brian Mix" <brianmix@cox.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 16:48:26 -0600
Subject: Re: Pacific Green over Ivory White
> Is this it?
>
> http://www.sdhealey.org/hog/hogpics/Pic20017.jpg
> http://www.sdhealey.org/hog/hogpics/Pic20018.jpg
> http://www.sdhealey.org/hog/hogpics/Pic20019.jpg
> http://www.sdhealey.org/hog/hogpics/Pic20020.jpg
>
> or this
>
> http://www.sdhealey.org/hog/hogpics/Pic30006.jpg
> http://www.sdhealey.org/hog/hogpics/Pic30007.jpg
> http://www.sdhealey.org/hog/hogpics/Pic30008.jpg
>
> BrianM
>
>
> At 12:50 PM 1/8/2004, Patton Dickson wrote:
> >Can any send me or point me to a picture of a Pacific Green over Ivory
White
> >100-6 or 3000. I am seriously considering this color combination, but a
> >good picture may make me decide either way.
> >
> >Thanks
> >Patton
> >
> >-------------------------------------
> >Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
> >1957 Austin-Healey BN4
> >Website http://www.austin-healeys.com/
> >
> >For Sale - 1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert
From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: "Brian Mix" <brianmix@cox.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 16:57:28 -0600
Subject: RE: Pacific Green over Ivory White
I believe that the top one is Florida Green and the bottom one is British
Racing Green. I have seen two photos of Pacific Green in the past few
minutes and depending on the light it is almost blue.
Here are pictures of Bjvrn Olofsson's car
http://www.ntahc.org/modifiedhealeys/Photos/5Olofsson/Olofsson1.htm
I emailed Dupont and they came back with a color code of GS663 (Ivory was
LS122) which they say I can match in their Spectramaster Color Library.
(Ivory was LS122). The couple of Healey sources I saw list the ICI number
for Pacific Green being 2659.
You could almost call it Healey Green
Patton
-----Original Message-----
From: Brian Mix [mailto:brianmix@cox.net]
Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2004 4:33 PM
To: Patton Dickson; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Pacific Green over Ivory White
Is this it?
http://www.sdhealey.org/hog/hogpics/Pic20017.jpg
http://www.sdhealey.org/hog/hogpics/Pic20018.jpg
http://www.sdhealey.org/hog/hogpics/Pic20019.jpg
http://www.sdhealey.org/hog/hogpics/Pic20020.jpg
or this
http://www.sdhealey.org/hog/hogpics/Pic30006.jpg
http://www.sdhealey.org/hog/hogpics/Pic30007.jpg
http://www.sdhealey.org/hog/hogpics/Pic30008.jpg
BrianM
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: "Brian Mix" <brianmix@cox.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 18:19:13 -0500
Subject: Re: Pulling an engine for the paint shop
Keith Pennell
> If you are going to pull the motor, now is a good time to check out the
> condition of the wiring harness and replace it if needed.
>
>
> Gary Shunk '67 BJ8 #38427 N.J.
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: "Brian Mix" <brianmix@cox.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 18:28:37 -0500
Subject: Re: Pulling an engine for the paint shop
Keith Pennell
> Seems like a good time for the Anti Scuttle Shake modification
>
> Tim Davis BN7
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2004 1:18 PM
> Subject: RE: Pulling an engine for the paint shop
>
>
> > Thanks for all of the responses.
> >
> > Since this is not a restoration, and money is an issue, I will have to
> > figure out what level of detail I am satisfied. Currently the body and
> > cockpit are red, and the chassis and engine bay are the original black.
> The
> > new paint job will be body, cockpit, and engine bay only. I will do a
two
> > tone paint job, but the final combo is up for debate. The chassis will
be
> > protected by POR-15.
> >
> > The overall consensus is that I should do this myself so I will have
time
> to
> > work on the details. The negative (and a good one) is that I am
> responsible
> > if I scratch the paint putting the engine back in.
> >
> > From the responses I have gotten, I think the minimum that I need to do
> > while the engine is out is replace the wiring harness, all rubber
mounts,
> > bushings, hoses (heat, water, clutch & brakes), firewall insulation, and
> the
> > clutch.
> >
> > I have a neighbor who I have not met that has I engine crane in his
> garage,
> > so I will have meet him, if not I can rent. There is the engine leveler
> > from Harbor Freight, I will also get.
> >
> > 2 TON CAPACITY LOAD LEVELER 42356-1VGA
> > www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42356
> >
> > I have an engine stand, but is that the best thing for this job? Is an
> > engine cart better? I don't really have anywhere to place the motor and
> > transmission except the ground, and I have never worked on a motor that
> > weighed anywhere near as much as this one does.
> >
> > Thanks
> > Patton
> >
> > -------------------------------------
> > Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
> > 1957 Austin-Healey BN4
> > Website http://www.austin-healeys.com/
> >
> > For Sale - 1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: "Brian Mix" <brianmix@cox.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 18:36:36 -0500
Subject: Re: Pulling an engine for the paint shop
If you can get a grocery cart with metal tubing frame you can make a pretty
darn good and cheap cart for the engine. As long as you don't do any quick
turns or hit dips it is surprisinly stable. I have made 4 or so and stored
an engine on one for about a year during a resto.
Cut off both vertical metal tubes just above the lowest crossmember (the
position of this varies depending upon the cart) and you are done!!!
However, I prefer to take a piece of the leftover tubing and weld it across
the cart to give greater rigidity. For the engine use a piece of plywood on
the bed of the cart and blocks to get the engine stable.
Also handy at moving large appliances and kids rolling down the driveway!
Keith Pennell
> Thanks for all of the responses.
>
> Since this is not a restoration, and money is an issue, I will have to
> figure out what level of detail I am satisfied. Currently the body and
> cockpit are red, and the chassis and engine bay are the original black.
The
> new paint job will be body, cockpit, and engine bay only. I will do a two
> tone paint job, but the final combo is up for debate. The chassis will be
> protected by POR-15.
>
> The overall consensus is that I should do this myself so I will have time
to
> work on the details. The negative (and a good one) is that I am
responsible
> if I scratch the paint putting the engine back in.
>
> From the responses I have gotten, I think the minimum that I need to do
> while the engine is out is replace the wiring harness, all rubber mounts,
> bushings, hoses (heat, water, clutch & brakes), firewall insulation, and
the
> clutch.
>
> I have a neighbor who I have not met that has I engine crane in his
garage,
> so I will have meet him, if not I can rent. There is the engine leveler
> from Harbor Freight, I will also get.
>
> 2 TON CAPACITY LOAD LEVELER 42356-1VGA
> www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42356
>
> I have an engine stand, but is that the best thing for this job? Is an
> engine cart better? I don't really have anywhere to place the motor and
> transmission except the ground, and I have never worked on a motor that
> weighed anywhere near as much as this one does.
>
> Thanks
> Patton
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "Brian Mix" <brianmix@cox.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 15:40:23 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Item in photo
Dean BN7
> It appears to be a simple chome(?) rod about 1/4
> inch thick that is carried
> between two small round chrome brackets that stand
> about 2in from the bodywork.
> I'd guess that something could attach to the rod and
> be moved up and down.
> But what is it??
> Simon.
>
>
__________________________________
Yahoo! Hotjobs: Enter the "Signing Bonus" Sweepstakes
http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/signingbonus
From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "Brian Mix" <brianmix@cox.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 18:56:23 -0500
Subject: Does anyone know Lisa Watson?
The other item is a(September,1979) 5th annual Austin-Healeys West meet award
certificate issued to Lisa Watson, also signed by Geoffrey Healey. The sponsor
was the Austin Healey Club, Pacific Center. Is this club still active? Were
the West meets just for this club or affiliates from other regions? Does
anyone have membership lists that would identify Lisa, or know of her, and
better yet her car? The model is not listed. If anyone has a lead , please let
me know. I would be more than happy to reunite the certificate with Lisa or
the present owner of the car if a connection can be made. I do not assume that
Lisa was specifically from the Pacific Center region.
allen miller BN2/M
From Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: SwampKilie@aol.com
To: cifd123us@yahoo.com, WITHABIGFNA@aol.com, crazeybob@yahoo.com,
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2003 00:48:07 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Fwd: Fw: my last email...
Return-path: <Gator789@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 01 Dec 2003 18:58:50 -0500 (EST)
From: Gator789@aol.com
Subject: Fwd: Fw: my last email...
To: SwampKilie@aol.com, SFriedman@mgjassociates.com,
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Lainiegk@aol.com, dmasse1@tampabay.rr.com, chip@massecontracting.com,
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Date: Mon, 01 Dec 2003 17:30:11 -0600
From: Claude Richardel - Laris Agency <claude@larisinsurance.com>
Subject: Fw: my last email...
To: Armand Galeto <gator789@aol.com>
Message-id: <00f001c3b863$10de40e0$66400a0a@ClaudeR>
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Message
----- Original Message -----
From: Ron Usher
To: Baiano, Erin ; bingo ; CHRISTINA WARK ; cousins ; Don & Aida Usher ; donald
dirksen ; jack warhurst ; Jeannette Seger ; Jerri ; john gonzalaz ; kay ;
Marilyn Spangenberg
Sent: Wednesday, November 26, 2003 1:23 PM
Subject: Fw: my last email...
----- Original Message -----
From: Carol Piper
To: Frank Piper ; Ron Usher
Sent: Wednesday, November 26, 2003 10:07 AM
Subject: Fw: my last email...
----- Original Message -----
From: hippirchick@msn.com
To: BRAIN! ; ALLEN ; BERNIE ; BILL'S BRO-GENE ; BOB & DEVONNA ; CAROL ; CRICKET
& KATHY ; DADDY ; DALE ; DAN McKEGNEY ; DANNY ; KIM ; PAM ; RAY ; SAM ; TYRAY ;
UNCLE DENNY
Sent: Wednesday, November 26, 2003 7:17 AM
Subject: my last email...
------ Original Message -----
From: Paul Zellen
Sent: Tue, Nov 25, 2003 7:25pm
To: C FICHERA <chuck111@attbi.com>; Dan <shipwright@gis.net>;
<HIPPIRCHICK@MSN.COM>; Doc <jdsdocktah@attbi.com>; Kelly <SWEETNNNUF@aol.com>;
<Lynnberwick@aol.com>; Pat Kelly <patkelly@nethere.com>; Stacey Ann Zellen
<PPETALS@aol.com>
Subject: Fw: My Last E-mail
My Last E-mail
Hi everyone
I'm sorry to say this but
This will be my last e-mail.
Things have been a bit tough lately
and life is getting shorter and shorter every day.
I want to take time and smell the Roses.
So I am going to quit e-mailing jokes
and travel full time with a biker gang
to see the country and enjoy life while I still can.
Don't worry about me - they
all seem like really nice people.
It has been nice emailing you,
But it's time to say good bye., SO LONG, I WILL BE BACK.
A photo of the biker gang is below
Let Me know if you would like to join us
KEEP SCROLLING
!!!
!!!
!!!
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of
image001.gif]
From "Brad Weldon 55BN1" <healey at bradw.com>
From: SwampKilie@aol.com
To: cifd123us@yahoo.com, WITHABIGFNA@aol.com, crazeybob@yahoo.com,
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 19:33:08 -0800
Subject: Re: Does anyone know Lisa Watson?
I looked in the past 6 Austin-Healey Resource Books (1998-2003) and couldn't
find a Lisa Watson.
The Austin Healey Club, Pacific Centre is the previous name of the
Austin-Healey Club USA. You can read a bit of the history at
http://www.healey.org/history.shtml
Brad Weldon
Webmaster, Austin Healey Club USA
http://www.healey.org/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2004 3:56 PM
Subject: Does anyone know Lisa Watson?
> I recently bought two items of emphemera on EBAY. I was after, and won,
the
> frontispiece plate of a 100 from a vintage100 shop manual bearing Donald
and
> Geoffrey Healeys' signatures in 1982, authenticated by the greasy
fingerprints
> and waterstains on the signatures, showing someone really used the book.
>
> The other item is a(September,1979) 5th annual Austin-Healeys West meet
award
> certificate issued to Lisa Watson, also signed by Geoffrey Healey. The
sponsor
> was the Austin Healey Club, Pacific Center. Is this club still active?
Were
> the West meets just for this club or affiliates from other regions? Does
> anyone have membership lists that would identify Lisa, or know of her, and
> better yet her car? The model is not listed. If anyone has a lead , please
let
> me know. I would be more than happy to reunite the certificate with Lisa
or
> the present owner of the car if a connection can be made. I do not assume
that
> Lisa was specifically from the Pacific Center region.
>
> allen miller BN2/M
From Charlie Baldwin <ewsinc at suscom.net>
From: SwampKilie@aol.com
To: cifd123us@yahoo.com, WITHABIGFNA@aol.com, crazeybob@yahoo.com,
Date: Thu, 08 Jan 2004 23:20:53 -0500
Subject: Re: Pacific Green over Ivory White
Patton Dickson wrote:
>Can any send me or point me to a picture of a Pacific Green over Ivory White
>100-6 or 3000. I am seriously considering this color combination, but a
>good picture may make me decide either way.
>
>Thanks
>Patton
>
>-------------------------------------
>Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
>1957 Austin-Healey BN4
>Website http://www.austin-healeys.com/
>
>For Sale - 1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert
From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: SwampKilie@aol.com
To: cifd123us@yahoo.com, WITHABIGFNA@aol.com, crazeybob@yahoo.com,
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 22:32:03 -0600
Subject: RE: Pacific Green over Ivory White
I have seen that picture and that is what originally pointed me to that
color. The problem with that is the three cars I have been sent photos of
that are Pacific Green are almost blue. I am unsure which is accurate.
When I found out that I had to move my old site (Carport Classics, featuring
Patton's Sprite and Midget Tech Pages) I realized that I was just dabbling
in the other cars, and that I have always liked Healeys better than all of
the rest. I am scrapping the Corvair and MGB content (but only selling the
cars) and going all Healey.
When I found out that I could buy Austin-Healeys.com I had to get it. Its
easy to remember, spells out the content, and it's cool that my other email
address is patton@austin-healeys.com! I still have a lot of work to do, and
I am nowhere near having the content I intend to there yet, but it's a
start.
Patton
-----Original Message-----
From: Charlie Baldwin [mailto:ewsinc@suscom.net]
Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2004 10:21 PM
To: Patton Dickson
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Pacific Green over Ivory White
Patton,
Go to http://www.austinhealey.com and enter the site and click on
Healey catalog to view any original color combination for any model. It
seems the URL is quite close to your own!
Charlie
Patton Dickson wrote:
>Can any send me or point me to a picture of a Pacific Green over Ivory
>White 100-6 or 3000. I am seriously considering this color
>combination, but a good picture may make me decide either way.
>
>Thanks
>Patton
>
>-------------------------------------
>Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
>1957 Austin-Healey BN4
>Website http://www.austin-healeys.com/
>
>For Sale - 1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert
From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: SwampKilie@aol.com
To: cifd123us@yahoo.com, WITHABIGFNA@aol.com, crazeybob@yahoo.com,
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 23:01:24 -0600
Subject: RE: Pulling an engine for the paint shop
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Davis [mailto:tld6008@mchsi.com]
Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2004 2:55 PM
To: Patton Dickson; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Pulling an engine for the paint shop
Seems like a good time for the Anti Scuttle Shake modification
Tim Davis BN7
From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: SwampKilie@aol.com
To: cifd123us@yahoo.com, WITHABIGFNA@aol.com, crazeybob@yahoo.com,
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 23:07:22 -0600
Subject: RE: Pulling an engine for the paint shop
Patton
-----Original Message-----
From: Keith Pennell [mailto:pennell@cox.net]
Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2004 5:37 PM
To: Patton Dickson; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Pulling an engine for the paint shop
Patton,
If you can get a grocery cart with metal tubing frame you can make a pretty
darn good and cheap cart for the engine. As long as you don't do any quick
turns or hit dips it is surprisinly stable. I have made 4 or so and stored
an engine on one for about a year during a resto.
Cut off both vertical metal tubes just above the lowest crossmember (the
position of this varies depending upon the cart) and you are done!!!
However, I prefer to take a piece of the leftover tubing and weld it across
the cart to give greater rigidity. For the engine use a piece of plywood on
the bed of the cart and blocks to get the engine stable.
Also handy at moving large appliances and kids rolling down the driveway!
Keith Pennell
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: SwampKilie@aol.com
To: cifd123us@yahoo.com, WITHABIGFNA@aol.com, crazeybob@yahoo.com,
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 00:21:23 -0500
Subject: Car mags for sale
Listers,
I have a huge stack of Road and Track mags for sale. They run from June 1989
through Dec 2000 with only maybe 4-5 missing. All are in excellent shape!
That means somewhere around 140 magazines! Also included are several
Automobile mags from 1988. The whole stack is around 37 inches tall!
Please do not ask which specific issues are included or missing. And all will
be sold as a lot.
Will sell to highest bidder over $50 for the lot who contacts me by 11 pm EST
January 12.
Buyer to pay shipping by UPS. I estimate three boxes at maybe 15 pounds per
box??? Figure your shipping from 23602 at
http://wwwapps.ups.com/QCCWebApp/request
Reply to me off list
Keith Pennell
From "Len and/or Marge" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: SwampKilie@aol.com
To: cifd123us@yahoo.com, WITHABIGFNA@aol.com, crazeybob@yahoo.com,
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 22:40:59 -0800
Subject: RE: Does anyone know Lisa Watson?
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA
1967 3000 MKIII HBJ8L39031
> [Original Message]
> From: Allen C Miller, Jr. <acmiller@mhcable.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 1/8/2004 3:58:08 PM
> Subject: Does anyone know Lisa Watson?
>
>
>
> The other item is a(September,1979) 5th annual Austin-Healeys West meet
award
> certificate issued to Lisa Watson, .....
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: SwampKilie@aol.com
To: cifd123us@yahoo.com, WITHABIGFNA@aol.com, crazeybob@yahoo.com,
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 01:22:21 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Pulling an engine for the paint shop
These are also very handy for keeping your life's
possessions mobile, ask any homeless dirtbag on the
street in San Francisco!
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- Keith Pennell <pennell@cox.net> wrote:
> Patton,
>
> If you can get a grocery cart with metal tubing
> frame you can make a pretty
> darn good and cheap cart for the engine. As long as
> you don't do any quick
> turns or hit dips it is surprisinly stable. I have
> made 4 or so and stored
> an engine on one for about a year during a resto.
>
> Cut off both vertical metal tubes just above the
> lowest crossmember (the
> position of this varies depending upon the cart) and
> you are done!!!
> However, I prefer to take a piece of the leftover
> tubing and weld it across
> the cart to give greater rigidity. For the engine
> use a piece of plywood on
> the bed of the cart and blocks to get the engine
> stable.
>
> Also handy at moving large appliances and kids
> rolling down the driveway!
>
> Keith Pennell
>
>
> > Thanks for all of the responses.
> >
> > Since this is not a restoration, and money is an
> issue, I will have to
> > figure out what level of detail I am satisfied.
> Currently the body and
> > cockpit are red, and the chassis and engine bay
> are the original black.
> The
> > new paint job will be body, cockpit, and engine
> bay only. I will do a two
> > tone paint job, but the final combo is up for
> debate. The chassis will be
> > protected by POR-15.
> >
> > The overall consensus is that I should do this
> myself so I will have time
> to
> > work on the details. The negative (and a good
> one) is that I am
> responsible
> > if I scratch the paint putting the engine back in.
> >
> > From the responses I have gotten, I think the
> minimum that I need to do
> > while the engine is out is replace the wiring
> harness, all rubber mounts,
> > bushings, hoses (heat, water, clutch & brakes),
> firewall insulation, and
> the
> > clutch.
> >
> > I have a neighbor who I have not met that has I
> engine crane in his
> garage,
> > so I will have meet him, if not I can rent. There
> is the engine leveler
> > from Harbor Freight, I will also get.
> >
> > 2 TON CAPACITY LOAD LEVELER 42356-1VGA
> >
>
www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42356
> >
> > I have an engine stand, but is that the best thing
> for this job? Is an
> > engine cart better? I don't really have anywhere
> to place the motor and
> > transmission except the ground, and I have never
> worked on a motor that
> > weighed anywhere near as much as this one does.
> >
> > Thanks
> > Patton
From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: SwampKilie@aol.com
To: cifd123us@yahoo.com, WITHABIGFNA@aol.com, crazeybob@yahoo.com,
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 06:09:03 -0500
Subject: Re: Pacific Green over Ivory White
The only other Healey than my own BJ8 that I have had the pleasure of driving
is a Pacific Green tricarb belonging to Bill Walton of Charlotte. I would
describe the colo(u)r as turquoise, and I'm sure Bill picked it to be
accurate. If you need to correspond with Bill about the colo(u)r, I can try
to put you in touch.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Patton Dickson
To: 'Charlie Baldwin'
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2004 11:32 PM
Subject: RE: Pacific Green over Ivory White
Thanks Charlie,
I have seen that picture and that is what originally pointed me to that
color. The problem with that is the three cars I have been sent photos of
that are Pacific Green are almost blue. I am unsure which is accurate.
When I found out that I had to move my old site (Carport Classics,
featuring
Patton's Sprite and Midget Tech Pages) I realized that I was just dabbling
in the other cars, and that I have always liked Healeys better than all of
the rest. I am scrapping the Corvair and MGB content (but only selling the
cars) and going all Healey.
When I found out that I could buy Austin-Healeys.com I had to get it. Its
easy to remember, spells out the content, and it's cool that my other email
address is patton@austin-healeys.com! I still have a lot of work to do,
and
I am nowhere near having the content I intend to there yet, but it's a
start.
Patton
-----Original Message-----
From: Charlie Baldwin [mailto:ewsinc@suscom.net]
Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2004 10:21 PM
To: Patton Dickson
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Pacific Green over Ivory White
Patton,
Go to http://www.austinhealey.com and enter the site and click on
Healey catalog to view any original color combination for any model. It
seems the URL is quite close to your own!
Charlie
Patton Dickson wrote:
>Can any send me or point me to a picture of a Pacific Green over Ivory
>White 100-6 or 3000. I am seriously considering this color
>combination, but a good picture may make me decide either way.
>
>Thanks
>Patton
>
>-------------------------------------
>Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
>1957 Austin-Healey BN4
>Website http://www.austin-healeys.com/
From "Paul Negus" <Paul.Negus at iplbath.com>
From: SwampKilie@aol.com
To: cifd123us@yahoo.com, WITHABIGFNA@aol.com, crazeybob@yahoo.com,
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 11:42:28 -0000
Subject: RE: Pulling an engine for the paint shop
You may also want to consider replacing the front oil seal - it isn't an
expensive item but a pig to do whilst the engine is in the car. (Hint: loosen
the front crankshaft nut before you remove the engine - check out the recent
archives!) Whilst the front cover is off, check the timing chain tensioner.
Also, check the condition of the core plugs - again, not a costly item but far
easier to do with the engine out. Look for weeping around any of the plugs; it
is often worth removing at least one of the plugs to check condition (but make
sure you have a replacement first!)
Finally, fit and bleed the clutch slave cylinder before replacing the
transmission cover. Incidentally, it is worth checking the condition of the
rubber components in the slave whilst it's off and replacing if at all worn.
Regards and good luck!
Paul
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 13:18:25 -0600
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: Pulling an engine for the paint shop
Thanks for all of the responses.
Since this is not a restoration, and money is an issue, I will have to
figure out what level of detail I am satisfied. Currently the body and
cockpit are red, and the chassis and engine bay are the original black. The
new paint job will be body, cockpit, and engine bay only. I will do a two
tone paint job, but the final combo is up for debate. The chassis will be
protected by POR-15.
The overall consensus is that I should do this myself so I will have time to
work on the details. The negative (and a good one) is that I am responsible
if I scratch the paint putting the engine back in.
>From the responses I have gotten, I think the minimum that I need to do
while the engine is out is replace the wiring harness, all rubber mounts,
bushings, hoses (heat, water, clutch & brakes), firewall insulation, and the
clutch.
I have a neighbor who I have not met that has I engine crane in his garage,
so I will have meet him, if not I can rent. There is the engine leveler
from Harbor Freight, I will also get.
2 TON CAPACITY LOAD LEVELER 42356-1VGA
www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42356
I have an engine stand, but is that the best thing for this job? Is an
engine cart better? I don't really have anywhere to place the motor and
transmission except the ground, and I have never worked on a motor that
weighed anywhere near as much as this one does.
Thanks
Patton
From James Wilson <snaggle2th_gb at yahoo.com>
From: SwampKilie@aol.com
To: cifd123us@yahoo.com, WITHABIGFNA@aol.com, crazeybob@yahoo.com,
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 04:28:06 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Pulling an engine for the paint shop
Keith Pennell <pennell@cox.net> wrote:
Patton,
If you can get a grocery cart with metal tubing frame you can make a pretty
darn good and cheap cart for the engine. As long as you don't do any quick
turns or hit dips it is surprisinly stable. I have made 4 or so and stored
an engine on one for about a year during a resto.
Cut off both vertical metal tubes just above the lowest crossmember (the
position of this varies depending upon the cart) and you are done!!!
However, I prefer to take a piece of the leftover tubing and weld it across
the cart to give greater rigidity. For the engine use a piece of plywood on
the bed of the cart and blocks to get the engine stable.
Also handy at moving large appliances and kids rolling down the driveway!
Keith Pennell
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Hotjobs: Enter the "Signing Bonus" Sweepstakes
From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: SwampKilie@aol.com
To: cifd123us@yahoo.com, WITHABIGFNA@aol.com, crazeybob@yahoo.com,
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 09:33:05 -0500
Subject: Re: Does anyone know Lisa Watson?
Lisa Watson may now or formerly be Lisa Bailey, as the other item, the
DMH-autographed plate of the AH100 screen down is from a 1959 Service Manual
inscribed in the inner flap with that name. The autograph is dated 1982,
three years after Lisa Watson. Does this other name ring a bell?
I am also trying to track down information in California about our 100M, CE
229089, build dt 10/55. It was always ice blue, and bears a very early decal
from the Austin Healey Association on the windscreen patterned after the
early bonnet badges. The back title dead ends with Chquered Flag Imports in
1988. She had her last documented oil in 1984 by a garage in Marina del Ray.
Unfortunately, the garage's telephone number on the valve cover now answers
in the US Attorney's office. Ken Freese has provided names of 11 BN2 owners
from the membership list of the SC Club from the early '80's, and I will be
trying to contact those whose telephone numbers still answer. The car may
ring a bell with some of you (literally, as it has a bulbous 'Bermuda bell'
accessory under the driver side floorboard. Also, the otherwise intact dash
has a 1960's/1970's vintage cigarette lighter in the center. Other
distinguishing features: original Triplex windscreen glass, atypical
replacement motor number plate, stamped with correct number but with square
edges and engraved with "1956 Le Mans" in script (will make a nice
keychain). Does this car sound familiar to anyone.
Incidentally, we've had very sunny weather the last few days. I may even get
the Healey out if it gets up into the '30's; definitely if the heat wave
swells to 40.
Allen Miller
From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: SwampKilie@aol.com
To: cifd123us@yahoo.com, WITHABIGFNA@aol.com, crazeybob@yahoo.com,
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 11:36:08 -0600
Subject: Fwd: Truth on EBay, not Healey but Jensen
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2451718436
>
----- End forwarded message -----
From "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid at hotmail.com>
From: SwampKilie@aol.com
To: cifd123us@yahoo.com, WITHABIGFNA@aol.com, crazeybob@yahoo.com,
Date: Fri, 09 Jan 2004 17:37:59 +0000
Subject: No Healey Content - Portland's Winter Weather
You may have heard about what a nasty bit of weather we've been having here
in the Pacific Northwest (USA). It's true! We've been virtually
house-bound for several days now. Here's a photo I took this morning
(Friday, January 9) in front of the house:
http://www.geocities.com/sebring1955/ winter2004.html
Reid
Reid Trummel
Portland, Oregon
100, 100M, Bugeye, Ski-Master
_________________________________________________________________
Working moms: Find helpful tips here on managing kids, home, work and
yourself. http://special.msn.com/msnbc/workingmom.armx
From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: SwampKilie@aol.com
To: cifd123us@yahoo.com, WITHABIGFNA@aol.com, crazeybob@yahoo.com,
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 11:54:54 -0600
Subject: 48 Spoke Rim Dimensions for 100-6
Thanks
Patton
-------------------------------------
Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
1957 Austin-Healey BN4
Website http://www.austin-healeys.com/
For Sale - 1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert
From "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid at hotmail.com>
From: SwampKilie@aol.com
To: cifd123us@yahoo.com, WITHABIGFNA@aol.com, crazeybob@yahoo.com,
Date: Fri, 09 Jan 2004 18:02:31 +0000
Subject: RE: Fwd: Truth on EBay, not Healey but Jensen
Reid
Reid Trummel
Portland, Oregon
100, 100M, Bugeye, Ski-Master
>From: dicksonr@uwm.edu
>Reply-To: dicksonr@uwm.edu
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>CC: b1law@aol.com, lethal4@tds.net
>Subject: Fwd: Truth on EBay, not Healey but Jensen
>Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 11:36:08 -0600
>
>This ad on ebay is hilarious!
>
>http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2451718436
>
_________________________________________________________________
Get reliable dial-up Internet access now with our limited-time introductory
offer. http://join.msn.com/?page=dept/dialup
From "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid at hotmail.com>
From: SwampKilie@aol.com
To: cifd123us@yahoo.com, WITHABIGFNA@aol.com, crazeybob@yahoo.com,
Date: Fri, 09 Jan 2004 18:18:32 +0000
Subject: No Healey Content - Portland's Winter Weather - GOOD URL
http://www.geocities.com/sebring1955/winter2004.html
Reid Trummel
Portland, Oregon
100, 100M, Bugeye, Ski-Master
>From: "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid@hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid@hotmail.com>
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: No Healey Content - Portland's Winter Weather
>Date: Fri, 09 Jan 2004 17:37:59 +0000
>
>Hi team,
>
>You may have heard about what a nasty bit of weather we've been having here
>in the Pacific Northwest (USA). It's true! We've been virtually
>house-bound for several days now. Here's a photo I took this morning
>(Friday, January 9) in front of the house:
>
>http://www.geocities.com/sebring1955/ winter2004.html
>
>Reid
>
>Reid Trummel
>Portland, Oregon
>100, 100M, Bugeye, Ski-Master
_________________________________________________________________
Tired of slow downloads? Compare online deals from your local high-speed
providers now. https://broadband.msn.com
From "Tim Davis" <tld6008 at mchsi.com>
From: "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 12:20:36 -0600
Subject: No Healey Content - Portland's Winter Weather
> Hi team,
>
> You may have heard about what a nasty bit of weather we've been having
here
> in the Pacific Northwest (USA). It's true! We've been virtually
> house-bound for several days now. Here's a photo I took this morning
> (Friday, January 9) in front of the house:
>
> http://www.geocities.com/sebring1955/ winter2004.html
>
> Reid
>
> Reid Trummel
> Portland, Oregon
> 100, 100M, Bugeye, Ski-Master
>
> _________________________________________________________________
From Douglas W Flagg <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 13:24:22 -0500
Subject: Re: King Dick Jack & Models
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
From "Heard Saxon" <heard at datatrontech.net>
From: "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 14:34:46 -0500
Subject: RE: No Healey Content - Portland's Winter Weather - GOOD URL
Cheers,
Heard Saxon
Enterprise, FL
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Reid Trummel
Sent: Friday, January 09, 2004 1:19 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: No Healey Content - Portland's Winter Weather - GOOD URL
Let's try this:
http://www.geocities.com/sebring1955/winter2004.html
Reid Trummel
Portland, Oregon
100, 100M, Bugeye, Ski-Master
>From: "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid@hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid@hotmail.com>
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: No Healey Content - Portland's Winter Weather
>Date: Fri, 09 Jan 2004 17:37:59 +0000
>
>Hi team,
>
>You may have heard about what a nasty bit of weather we've been having here
>in the Pacific Northwest (USA). It's true! We've been virtually
>house-bound for several days now. Here's a photo I took this morning
>(Friday, January 9) in front of the house:
>
>http://www.geocities.com/sebring1955/ winter2004.html
>
>Reid
>
>Reid Trummel
>Portland, Oregon
>100, 100M, Bugeye, Ski-Master
_________________________________________________________________
From "Classic-Car-World Ltd" <enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk>
From: "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 20:33:58 -0000
Subject: Healeys in the magazines
In the February issue of both Practical Classics & Classic Car Magazine there
is coverage Healeys. Practical Classics are comparing a Healey 100 and a late
model 3000 whilst Classic Car Magazine has coverage of a 100S.
Kindest regards
Tom
Tom McCay (AH 3000 BJ8)
Classic-Car-World Ltd
Tel: 01522 888178
Fax: 0870 7059115
E-mail: enquiries@classic-car-world.co.uk
URL: http://www.classic-car-world.co.uk
Now offering quality Sealey tools at discount prices, see www.ccw-tools.co.uk
for further details.
From JJSandSMS at cs.com
From: "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 16:25:46 EST
Subject: Splitting a BJ8 Brake Caliper - Why Not? What is the Secret?
The factory manual (in bold print no less) and the Moss parts manual both
says "No attempt should be made to remove the bridge bolts joining the two
halves
of the caliper." Why is this? I plan to remove the front brake calipers on
our 64 BJ8 for rebuild which could (should) include honing the cylinders. I
have never split a Healey caliper but have split many German (ATE) calipers
with never any problems. The ATE calipers generally have two small washer type
rubber seals that join the two halves and I have never found one to be bad.
What is different about the Healey caliper? They appear similar in
construction. Is there some hidden seal that will be destroyed and is no
longer available
and/or is there some special trick or tooling required to splitting that the
average mechanic cannot handle or would not possess?
Thanks in advance!
Jeff Stepek
1964 BJ8
PS. Just noticed the factory manual spells "caliper" as "calliper." Maybe
that is the problem, only "calipers" can be split? Also spellchecker likes
"caliper."
From "Phil Whitton" <p.whitton at uws.edu.au>
From: "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 10:05:15 +1100 (EST)
Subject: Portland's Winter Weather ? try ours
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 09 Jan 2004 16:17:01 -0700
Subject: Re: Splitting a BJ8 Brake Caliper - Why Not? What is the
I have never heard a reason for the Girling warning but can speculate
that the bolts may be torqued to nearly the yield point when originally
assembled & that they are wary of bolt fracture if the bolts are reused.
The only other problem may be finding the correct square section O rings
for replacement.
Dave Russell
JJSandSMS@cs.com wrote:
> Re: Front brake calipers on a BJ8
>
> The factory manual (in bold print no less) and the Moss parts manual both
> says "No attempt should be made to remove the bridge bolts joining the two
>halves
> of the caliper." Why is this? I plan to remove the front brake calipers on
> our 64 BJ8 for rebuild which could (should) include honing the cylinders. I
> have never split a Healey caliper but have split many German (ATE) calipers
> with never any problems. The ATE calipers generally have two small washer
>type
> rubber seals that join the two halves and I have never found one to be bad.
> What is different about the Healey caliper? They appear similar in
> construction. Is there some hidden seal that will be destroyed and is no
>longer available
> and/or is there some special trick or tooling required to splitting that the
> average mechanic cannot handle or would not possess?
>
> Thanks in advance!
> Jeff Stepek
> 1964 BJ8
From "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid at hotmail.com>
From: "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 01:45:42 +0000
Subject: RE: No Healey Content - Portland's Winter Weather
And I'll be swimming here real soon:
http://lamanzanilla.info/
I take my Margaritas WITH salt, thank you very much...
Reid Trummel
Portland, Oregon
100, 100M, Bugeye, Ski-Master
>From: "Heard Saxon" <heard@datatrontech.net>
>To: "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid@hotmail.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: RE: No Healey Content - Portland's Winter Weather - GOOD URL
>Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 14:34:46 -0500
>
>Bummer! I'd show you a picture of the weather here in Central Florida, but
>my camera is all the way up in the car, and I'm down here on the beach.....
>
>Cheers,
>Heard Saxon
>Enterprise, FL
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
>[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Reid Trummel
>Sent: Friday, January 09, 2004 1:19 PM
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: No Healey Content - Portland's Winter Weather - GOOD URL
>
>Let's try this:
>
>http://www.geocities.com/sebring1955/winter2004.html
>
>Reid Trummel
>Portland, Oregon
>100, 100M, Bugeye, Ski-Master
>
>
> >From: "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid@hotmail.com>
> >Reply-To: "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid@hotmail.com>
> >To: healeys@autox.team.net
> >Subject: No Healey Content - Portland's Winter Weather
> >Date: Fri, 09 Jan 2004 17:37:59 +0000
> >
> >Hi team,
> >
> >You may have heard about what a nasty bit of weather we've been having
>here
> >in the Pacific Northwest (USA). It's true! We've been virtually
> >house-bound for several days now. Here's a photo I took this morning
> >(Friday, January 9) in front of the house:
> >
> >http://www.geocities.com/sebring1955/winter2004.html
> >
> >Reid
> >
> >Reid Trummel
> >Portland, Oregon
> >100, 100M, Bugeye, Ski-Master
_________________________________________________________________
Find out everything you need to know about Las Vegas here for that getaway.
http://special.msn.com/msnbc/vivalasvegas.armx
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 18:44:08 -0800
Subject: Re: Splitting a BJ8 Brake Caliper - Why Not? What is the
John Snyder
I think that many folks have split the calipers & re-used the bolts. I have
never heard a reason for the Girling warning but can speculate that the
bolts may be torqued to nearly the yield point when originally assembled &
that they are wary of bolt fracture if the bolts are reused. The only other
problem may be finding the correct square section O rings for replacement.
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 22:03:13 -0500
Subject: Re: No Healey Content - Portland's Winter Weather - GOOD URL
But pretty damn funny,
Sorry about the Nastys out there Reid.
I have been catching up on some reading about the beautiful weather and
scenery that our MGA brothers had out in your state last summer and its hard
to believe the contrast of the "then and now pictures". Who would have
thought?
Its only temporary thank God, Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "Heard Saxon" <heard@datatrontech.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid@hotmail.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 09, 2004 2:34 PM
Subject: RE: No Healey Content - Portland's Winter Weather - GOOD URL
> Bummer! I'd show you a picture of the weather here in Central Florida,
but
> my camera is all the way up in the car, and I'm down here on the
beach.....
>
> Cheers,
> Heard Saxon
> Enterprise, FL
From Larry Hewlett <hewlettlj at shaw.ca>
From: "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 09 Jan 2004 19:11:28 -0800
Subject: Clamping Nut
Regards
Larry Hewlett
63 BJ7
Peachland, B.C.
From bn1 at pacbell.net
From: "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 09 Jan 2004 19:19:12 -0800
Subject: Re: re. Re: Not AH - shop air compressors
> Thanks all for the comments, however, why are you guys
> saying I need so much pressure and cfm to operate a
> die grinder? A typical die grinder is rated at 4cfm
> (or less) at 90 psi. If I get a compressor with a
> higher rating (such as 4.2 or 4.5 cfm at 90psi) aren't
> I OK for the task? I'm not going to be using the
> compressor for this day in day out...
> Regards,
> JoeM
> '60 BT
Hi Joe,
For questions like this, you'll get a lot better answers from the "shop-talk"
List. It's also a Majordomo list. Subscribe to it exactly as you did the
Healey List only use shop-talk (with the hyphen). I'm a subscriber and, trust
me, there are people there who know everything about every kind of tool ever
made. Don't buy until you put the question out to them.
Bill Barnett
'53 BN1 #663
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 22:23:43 -0500
Subject: Re: Splitting a BJ8 Brake Caliper - Why Not? What is the
This is what I did but I haven't stopped a car with them yet but they
sure look damn good on the self.
If you need to get the pistons out I highly recommend a grease gun.
That was my last attempt at piston removal before I just trashed my calipers
but it worked. And there was no fear of flying pistons through the air.
Go For It, Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: <JJSandSMS@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 09, 2004 4:25 PM
Subject: Splitting a BJ8 Brake Caliper - Why Not? What is the Secret?
> Re: Front brake calipers on a BJ8
>
> The factory manual (in bold print no less) and the Moss parts manual both
> says "No attempt should be made to remove the bridge bolts joining the two
halves
> of the caliper." Why is this? I plan to remove the front brake calipers
on
> our 64 BJ8 for rebuild which could (should) include honing the cylinders.
I
> have never split a Healey caliper but have split many German (ATE)
calipers
> with never any problems. The ATE calipers generally have two small washer
type
> rubber seals that join the two halves and I have never found one to be
bad.
> What is different about the Healey caliper? They appear similar in
> construction. Is there some hidden seal that will be destroyed and is no
longer available
> and/or is there some special trick or tooling required to splitting that
the
> average mechanic cannot handle or would not possess?
>
> Thanks in advance!
> Jeff Stepek
> 1964 BJ8
>
> PS. Just noticed the factory manual spells "caliper" as "calliper."
Maybe
> that is the problem, only "calipers" can be split? Also spellchecker
likes
> "caliper."
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 22:29:31 -0500
Subject: Re: No Healey Content - Portland's Winter Weather
But have good time, Mark ( from chilly Indy.)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 09, 2004 8:45 PM
Subject: RE: No Healey Content - Portland's Winter Weather
> Thanks for all of the expressions of sympathy about the weather here in
> Portland this week, but don't feel too sorry for us... next Tuesday we're
> headed to Mexico for 30 days. The photo on this webpage is basically
> IDENTICAL to the view from our house there:
> http://www.lamanzanilla.com/
>
> And I'll be swimming here real soon:
> http://lamanzanilla.info/
>
> I take my Margaritas WITH salt, thank you very much...
>
> Reid Trummel
> Portland, Oregon
> 100, 100M, Bugeye, Ski-Master
From "F. Ronald Rader" <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 09 Jan 2004 19:46:20 -0800
Subject: Re: Does anyone know Lisa Watson?
At 06:33 AM 1/9/2004, Allen C Miller, Jr. wrote:
>She had her last documented oil in 1984 by a garage in Marina del Ray.
>Unfortunately, the garage's telephone number on the valve cover now answers
>in the US Attorney's office.
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 01:56:01 +1100
Subject: "Best Healey in the world" for sale on eBay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2453590733&category=29753
I could make a kiwi joke, or a remark about sheep, ewe-turns or 'Marty' -
but instead I'll just let the eBay listing speak for itself......
Anyway - how could it possibly be the best Healey in the world - its not a
BJ8?? (he says, ducking an amazing array of international beer cans tossed
predominantly by an assortment of 'BN' prefix Healey owners....)
: )
Chris
From "R.J. Denton" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 10:48:02 -0600
Subject: Re: "Best Healey in the world" for sale on eBay
Ten years? I thought our restorations were slow. . . .
Chris Dimmock wrote:
> The self proclaimed "best Austin Healey in the world" is currently for sale
> on eBay.
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2453590733&category=29753
>
> I could make a kiwi joke, or a remark about sheep, ewe-turns or 'Marty' -
> but instead I'll just let the eBay listing speak for itself......
>
> Anyway - how could it possibly be the best Healey in the world - its not a
> BJ8?? (he says, ducking an amazing array of international beer cans tossed
> predominantly by an assortment of 'BN' prefix Healey owners....)
>
> : )
From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 09:59:52 -0600
Subject: "Best Healey in the world" for sale on eBay
> The self proclaimed "best Austin Healey in the world" is currently for
sale
> on eBay.
>
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2453590733&category=29753
>
> I could make a kiwi joke, or a remark about sheep, ewe-turns or 'Marty' -
> but instead I'll just let the eBay listing speak for itself......
>
> Anyway - how could it possibly be the best Healey in the world - its not a
> BJ8?? (he says, ducking an amazing array of international beer cans
tossed
> predominantly by an assortment of 'BN' prefix Healey owners....)
>
> : )
>
> Chris
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 09:35:30 -0800
Subject: Re: "Best Healey in the world" for sale on eBay
"> Maybe the non-original steering wheel makes it the best. Willing to bet the
car
> wouldn't make concours gold, Healey Club style."
Probably not, since he misspelled "concours" no less than 3 times (and he thinks
HE'S a perfectionist ;) Everybody knows it's "concurse."
BTW, re:
".. THE OTHER CHANGES MADE WITH THE BJ7 WAS
THE INDRODUCTION (sic) OF THE CENTRE CHANGE GEAR BOX ..."
Thought the last BN/T7s had center shifts, no?
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "R.J. Denton" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2004 8:48 AM
Subject: Re: "Best Healey in the world" for sale on eBay
> Maybe the non-original steering wheel makes it the best. Willing to bet the
>car
> wouldn't make concours gold, Healey Club style.
>
> Ten years? I thought our restorations were slow. . . .
>
> Chris Dimmock wrote:
>
> > The self proclaimed "best Austin Healey in the world" is currently for sale
> > on eBay.
> >
> > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2453590733&category=29753
> >
> > I could make a kiwi joke, or a remark about sheep, ewe-turns or 'Marty' -
> > but instead I'll just let the eBay listing speak for itself......
> >
> > Anyway - how could it possibly be the best Healey in the world - its not a
> > BJ8?? (he says, ducking an amazing array of international beer cans tossed
> > predominantly by an assortment of 'BN' prefix Healey owners....)
> >
> > : )
From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "R.J. Denton" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>; "Chris Dimmock"
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 12:45:15 -0600
Subject: Re: "Best Healey in the world" for sale on eBay
> re:
>
> "> Maybe the non-original steering wheel makes it the best. Willing to bet
the car
> > wouldn't make concours gold, Healey Club style."
>
> Probably not, since he misspelled "concours" no less than 3 times (and he
thinks
> HE'S a perfectionist ;) Everybody knows it's "concurse."
>
> BTW, re:
>
> ".. THE OTHER CHANGES MADE WITH THE BJ7 WAS
> THE INDRODUCTION (sic) OF THE CENTRE CHANGE GEAR BOX ..."
>
> Thought the last BN/T7s had center shifts, no?
>
>
> bs
>
> ********************************************
> Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
> '67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
> ********************************************
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "R.J. Denton" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
> To: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2004 8:48 AM
> Subject: Re: "Best Healey in the world" for sale on eBay
>
>
> > Maybe the non-original steering wheel makes it the best. Willing to bet
the car
> > wouldn't make concours gold, Healey Club style.
> >
> > Ten years? I thought our restorations were slow. . . .
> >
> > Chris Dimmock wrote:
> >
> > > The self proclaimed "best Austin Healey in the world" is currently for
sale
> > > on eBay.
> > >
> > >
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2453590733&category=29753
> > >
> > > I could make a kiwi joke, or a remark about sheep, ewe-turns or
'Marty' -
> > > but instead I'll just let the eBay listing speak for itself......
> > >
> > > Anyway - how could it possibly be the best Healey in the world - its
not a
> > > BJ8?? (he says, ducking an amazing array of international beer cans
tossed
> > > predominantly by an assortment of 'BN' prefix Healey owners....)
From "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "R.J. Denton" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>; "Chris Dimmock"
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 20:06:58 +0100
Subject: Re: Splitting a BJ8 Brake Caliper - Why Not? What is the
From bn1 at pacbell.net
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "R.J. Denton" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>; "Chris Dimmock"
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 11:20:20 -0800
Subject: Re: "Best Healey in the world" for sale on eBay
> re:
>
> "> Maybe the non-original steering wheel makes it the best. Willing to bet
>the car
> > wouldn't make concours gold, Healey Club style."
>
> Probably not, since he misspelled "concours" no less than 3 times (and he
>thinks
> HE'S a perfectionist ;) Everybody knows it's "concurse."
>
> BTW, re:
>
> ".. THE OTHER CHANGES MADE WITH THE BJ7 WAS
> THE INDRODUCTION (sic) OF THE CENTRE CHANGE GEAR BOX ..."
>
> Thought the last BN/T7s had center shifts, no?
>
OK, OK, So the guy is a BIT verbose and "works in advertising"! Of course it's
not
the best Austin-Healey in the world, mine is ;-)
Bill Barnett
'53 BN1 #663
From Douglas W Flagg <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "R.J. Denton" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>; "Chris Dimmock"
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 16:15:43 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey Models
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "R.J. Denton" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>; "Chris Dimmock"
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 18:53:28 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Targa Newfoundland Rally 2003 on TV
Michael Salter & Blair Harber completed the Targa Newfoundland 2003 with
results of 1st in class
and 6th overall in their Austin Healey 100; granted, modified to some extent.
These two gave
Healey aficionados one more proud moment in the long tradition of Austin Healey
rallying and
racing.
A record of the creation of the car, a 1953 100 Austin Healey - AHX12, can be
found at Larry
Varley's Austin Healey 100 Restoration web site. [
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/index.html ]
In mid December, Frank Nossereau [Administration Manager & Registrar of
Newfoundland International
Motorsports Ltd] announced that "Targa Newfoundland 2003: An Automotive
Adventure" will be airing
in Canada on the Global Network on January 31st, 2004 at 7:00 p.m. You will
have to check your
local listings for your specific air times. I'm sure that there will be other
air dates on the
Global Network and it will also likely be televised by Speed TV as they did the
2002 Targa was
last year.
--Scott Morris
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "R.J. Denton" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>; "Chris Dimmock"
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 18:08:00 -0800
Subject: Mad Cow Tracking-NO HEALEY CONTENT
Is it just me or does anyone else find it amazing that we can track a
cow born in Canada almost 3 years ago, right to the stall where it
sleeps in the state of Washington. Also track it's calves to their
stalls. But, we are unable to locate a couple million illegal aliens
wandering around our country.
Look for the ACLU (American Cow Liberty Union) to change all that real
soon. Cows have rights too.
From "Brad Weldon 55BN1" <healey at bradw.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "R.J. Denton" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>; "Chris Dimmock"
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 20:09:20 -0800
Subject: Re: Austin Healey paintings
I don't know anything about these paintings, but allow me to forward your
request for information on to a huge Healey Email List. This List currently
has 622 subscribers, so somebody there might have some information for you.
Good luck!
Brad Weldon
Webmaster, Austin Healey Club USA
http://www.healey.org/
----- Original Message -----
From: "nick demetri" <nick73650@yahoo.com>
To: <webmaster@healey.org>
Sent: Thursday, January 01, 2004 1:08 PM
Subject: Austin Healey paintings
> Dear Webmaster,
> I have found your email on the Austin Healey site and
> i apologise for disturbing you in any way.
> I have been given 4 paintings in ink, drawn by
> 'Sibrin' and would like to ask you or your members if
> you know anything about them. I was told that they are
> the original paintings for the adverts of the
> Austin-Healey motor car. They are drawn in a cartoon
> style and three of them seem to be a set depicting a
> cowboy on a horse and the other depicts a a boyish
> cowboy in a motor car. I would like to know a little
> more about them. Please let me know if you have any
> information about them. I would be glad to send you
> pics of the paintings if you would like them. Thanks
> In Advance, Nick.
From KingR44916 at aol.com
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "R.J. Denton" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>; "Chris Dimmock"
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 08:31:33 EST
Subject: tube shocks
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "R.J. Denton" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>; "Chris Dimmock"
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 07:17:19 -0800
Subject: Tricarb questions
I was told by a knowledgable healey guy the tricarbs will not stay in tune
for any length of time and that's their problem. He was referring to the
stock setup.
Would like to hear experience-based comment on whether the aftermarket
tricarbs stay in tune. Don't care if they're hard to tune, only if they stay
in tune. Also don't care about the stock 1.5" tricarb setup.
The other thing I'm curious about is, tuning aside, which setup produces the
best power with driveability for a hot street machine?
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "R.J. Denton" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>; "Chris Dimmock"
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 07:19:13 -0800
Subject: Off Topic: mfg of Billet Caps sought
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "R.J. Denton" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>; "Chris Dimmock"
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 07:37:50 -0800
Subject: Off topic: LA area event
From skip <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "R.J. Denton" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>; "Chris Dimmock"
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 11:43:27 -0500
Subject: Re: Item in photo
-skip-
Simonlachlan@aol.com wrote:
>
> I am sure that some of you have "Healey, the Handsome brute" by Chris
> Harvey?? (I think it's one of the better books).
> Anhow, does anyone know what the "thing" on the door of PJB828 is on page 92?
> It is vertically mounted on the right hand wing with its top about 2 in
> behind the chrome wing. (Driver's side on a UK/RHD car).
> It is about as long as the chrome wing. Haven't got the car in my study..say
> 10 inches long?
> It appears to be a simple chome(?) rod about 1/4 inch thick that is carried
> between two small round chrome brackets that stand about 2in from the
>bodywork.
> I'd guess that something could attach to the rod and be moved up and down.
> But what is it??
> Simon.
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 11:55:21 -0500
Subject: Tricarb questions
Steve wrote: <snip>
> I was told by a knowledgable healey guy the tricarbs will not stay in tune
> for any length of time and that's their problem. He was referring to the
> stock setup.
From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 12:31:10 -0500
Subject: Re: Tricarb questions
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 10:06:53 -0800
Subject: Re: Tricarb questions
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>; "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>;
"Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2004 9:31 AM
Subject: Re: Tricarb questions
> I agree with Rich assuming that the carbs are rebuilt and in perfect
> condition. My tri-carbs have never gone out of tune. Each spring I clean and
> adjust them as needed and that's it for the year. You will have far more
> trouble with the timing going out than you ever will with the carbs.Cheers,
> JL
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 13:14:45 -0500
Subject: Re: Tricarb questions
Also, I had a '62 stock tricarb a few years back. They stayed in tune ok
too. ...sooooo, not to worry, as they say.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2004 10:17 AM
Subject: Tricarb questions
> I'm deciding whether to go with a DMD 2x 2" setup or a Welch (or Cape?)
> 1.75" tricarb setup.
>
> I was told by a knowledgable healey guy the tricarbs will not stay in tune
> for any length of time and that's their problem. He was referring to the
> stock setup.
>
> Would like to hear experience-based comment on whether the aftermarket
> tricarbs stay in tune. Don't care if they're hard to tune, only if they
stay
> in tune. Also don't care about the stock 1.5" tricarb setup.
>
> The other thing I'm curious about is, tuning aside, which setup produces
the
> best power with driveability for a hot street machine?
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 10:22:28 -0800
Subject: Arcane Technical Question
a) this is to support the intake manifold and carbs
b) this is to warm the carbs to prevent carb icing (and speed up
initial warming)
c) both of the above
The 4-cyl cars do without this arrangement (I believe), as do
most tri-carb setups. If (a) is the answer, the extra heating of the
carbs and intake manifold will cause an unnecessary loss of power,
and maybe a different arrangement could be provided (at least, perhaps,
some better heat shielding between the two manifolds).
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
From Ron Fine <RonFineEsq at earthlink.net>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 11:17:39 -0800
Subject: Paint removal
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 12:02:05 -0800
Subject: Re: Paint removal
I recently had the steel panels and frame blasted with plastic media
(ground urea based plastic). The advantage, I am told, is lower
pressure/less heat than sand so there is no panel warpage and the
plastic media does not leave any residue that could interfere with
priming. The plastic media will not take off rust so sand was used in
the small areas that had some rust.
Most of the exterior paint/bondo was stripped by the panelbeater with a
torch and putty knife (yellow flame, lightly licking the surface until
it bubbled) followed by various sanding discs. The aluminum shrouds were
also done with this method and I used chemical stripper to remove the
the paint from the flanges and insides followed up with lacquer thinner.
I have some before and after pictures at
http://www.loftusdesign.net/media_blasting.html The cost was $600 for
the steel panels and frame plus a small box of additional parts. The
company is called Blastech, 345 W. Freedom, Orange CA 92865 714
921-1909 (no $$ interest)
Cheers,
John
From Douglas W Flagg <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 15:00:12 -0500
Subject: Re: Old Chatters
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 13:15:31 -0800
Subject: Re: "Best Healey in the world" for sale on eBay / WAS
Maybe, just, Maybe, MY BT7 'WAS' (past tense) the
'BEST HEALEY IN THE WORLD',
as you well remember, it won 'Best of Show' three times
(96-97-98) at 'California Healey Week'.
Kirk Kvam ;-) ;-(
62BT7
59/60BN7 #405 (NastyBoy 302 Ford)
----- Original Message -----
From: <bn1@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2004 11:20 AM
Subject: Re: "Best Healey in the world" for sale on eBay
> Bob Spidell wrote:
>
> > re:
> >
> > "> Maybe the non-original steering wheel makes it the best. Willing to
bet the car
> > > wouldn't make concours gold, Healey Club style."
> >
> > Probably not, since he misspelled "concours" no less than 3 times (and
he thinks
> > HE'S a perfectionist ;) Everybody knows it's "concurse."
> >
> > BTW, re:
> >
> > ".. THE OTHER CHANGES MADE WITH THE BJ7 WAS
> > THE INDRODUCTION (sic) OF THE CENTRE CHANGE GEAR BOX ..."
> >
> > Thought the last BN/T7s had center shifts, no?
> >
>
> OK, OK, So the guy is a BIT verbose and "works in advertising"! Of course
it's not
> the best Austin-Healey in the world, mine is ;-)
>
> Bill Barnett
> '53 BN1 #663
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 13:55:19 -0800
Subject: Re: Tricarb questions
I agree with Rich here - I have owned 2 tri-carbs, both engines completely
stock, (except for a Pertronics ignition on the current one), for a combined
total of approx. 100K miles since 1974.
The best advice I can give is this: once you get it running right,
pop-rivet the bonnet shut and leave the damned thing alone! It will
eventually come out of adjustment as throttle shafts, metering needles, etc.
start to wear, but this will take a lot of miles. It's been my experience
that most tuning problems on these old Healeys are caused by 'excessive
compulsive fiddling', which is difficult for some of us to resist - most
enthusiasts will know evactly what I'm talking about.
One big, huge tip that helps: If the car is going to sit for any more than
about 60 days or so without being used, run the fuel out of the carbs by
disconnecting the fuel pump while the engine is running, and let it idle
'til it quits. This gets the fuel out of the jets and the float bowls
(mostly), and lets the float needles hang open. When you go to start it
again, the fuel from the tank is relatively fresh - a quick start is usual.
This procedure seems to be more important with unleaded fuel than before -
the current fuels seem to allow deposits to form more quickly than the old
stuff.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BT7 tri-carb -(sitting with no fuel in the float bowls, waiting for spring)
BJ8 - (under restoration, float bowls in a box)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>; "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2004 8:55 AM
Subject: Re: Tricarb questions
Steve,
I beg to differ with your "knowledgable Healey guy", but having owned a
stock tricarb from 1976 through 1984, and many thousands of miles, I can
assure you the stock setup does not go out of tune unless somebody gets in
there and changes something!
For 9 years all I ever did to that carb setup was to take a few minutes each
spring to remove and clean out the upper dashpots and pistons, reinstall,
top up with 30 wt. oil, check the balance with a piece of tubing at each
throat (which virtually never needed changing) and carry on for another
season of motoring.
Geoff Healey wrote in his first book on the Bih Healey, that the more
ignorant people are about these things, (and he was referring to exactly
this issue) the louder they squawk!
He was right.
Rich Chrysler
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2004 10:17 AM
Subject: Tricarb questions
Steve wrote: <snip>
> I was told by a knowledgable healey guy the tricarbs will not stay in tune
> for any length of time and that's their problem. He was referring to the
> stock setup.
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 14:05:18 -0800
Subject: Re: Arcane Technical Question
It's the Healey version of a heat riser function - stock tri-carbs use it as
well. There special gaskets between the intake and exhaust manifolds that
allow an air gap to transfer heat at a calculated rate. I don't know if
this hurts power at high temperatures or not - one would think that the
factory would have worked that out. Bear in mind here that the inlet
manifolds are aluminum ( tri-carbs as well) - that may have entered into the
design of the set-up.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BT7 tri-carb
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2004 10:22 AM
Subject: Arcane Technical Question
On the 6-cyl Healeys, the intake manifold sits on two platforms
on the top of the exhaust manifolds. Anyone know if:
a) this is to support the intake manifold and carbs
b) this is to warm the carbs to prevent carb icing (and speed up
initial warming)
c) both of the above
The 4-cyl cars do without this arrangement (I believe), as do
most tri-carb setups. If (a) is the answer, the extra heating of the
carbs and intake manifold will cause an unnecessary loss of power,
and maybe a different arrangement could be provided (at least, perhaps,
some better heat shielding between the two manifolds).
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 14:21:22 -0800
Subject: Re: Paint removal
Just went through this.
The body skin (including the aluminum) was hand stripped with aircraft
stripper from a tin - available at autobody supply shops. The panels were
then rinsed with running water real well from a hose and set out in the sun
to dry, according to the instructions.
The chassis was walnut blasted clean, with some areas touched up with garnet
blasting where necessary. The chassis/body repairs were done quickly, and
the whole thing was metal prepped and epoxy primered within a few days in
order to prevent the formation of surface rust on the clean pieces, and
allowing a more leisurely period to do all the final fitting prior to
priming, painting, wet-sanding, etc.
I would advise against dipping or media blasting the aluminum shrouds - it
can be done, but it's too risky. They should be hand stripped, preferably
with chemicals - sanding/grinding does more damage to the metal surface -
you'll need more leveller to get it right for painting.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BT7 tri-carb
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2004 11:17 AM
Subject: Paint removal
Hello List. I'm collecting opinions on the best way to remove old paint
to the bare metal for body work and new paint. Some say chemical
strippers leave residue in the metal or between close fitting parts that
will ruin the new paint no matter how hard you try to clean it up before
painting. Others say they always use chemicals or dip into acid baths.
One painter I consulted would use chemicals and another painter only
uses a power grinder and sand paper. I don't want to power sand myself
but I might consider chemical striping in my garage or having them
dipped locally. What's your opinion or experience?
Ron
61BN7
66MGB
From Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 18:51:14 -0500
Subject: plugs & points seting
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 15:49:44 -0800
Subject: Re: Arcane Technical Question
Doesn't seem like a good design decision, though. There's no
particular benefit (that I know of)in heating the intake manifold;
the usual purpose is to heat the carb body to offset the evaporative
cooling in the carb throats. Also, tri-manifold (e.g. Weber) setups
don't seem to need to heat the carbs (or manifolds).
Suppose the only thing you could do with a stock setup is put a
better insulating plate in between the two. The power lost by heating
the intake charge can be appreciable (well-known to pilots), and
look at the trouble--i.e. intercoolers--turbo'd engine designers go to
to cool the charge.
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>; "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2004 2:05 PM
Subject: Re: Arcane Technical Question
> Bob:
>
> It's the Healey version of a heat riser function - stock tri-carbs use it as
> well. There special gaskets between the intake and exhaust manifolds that
> allow an air gap to transfer heat at a calculated rate. I don't know if
> this hurts power at high temperatures or not - one would think that the
> factory would have worked that out. Bear in mind here that the inlet
> manifolds are aluminum ( tri-carbs as well) - that may have entered into the
> design of the set-up.
>
> Earl Kagna
> Victoria, B.C.
> BT7 tri-carb
> BJ8
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
> To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2004 10:22 AM
> Subject: Arcane Technical Question
>
>
> On the 6-cyl Healeys, the intake manifold sits on two platforms
> on the top of the exhaust manifolds. Anyone know if:
>
> a) this is to support the intake manifold and carbs
>
> b) this is to warm the carbs to prevent carb icing (and speed up
> initial warming)
>
> c) both of the above
>
> The 4-cyl cars do without this arrangement (I believe), as do
> most tri-carb setups. If (a) is the answer, the extra heating of the
> carbs and intake manifold will cause an unnecessary loss of power,
> and maybe a different arrangement could be provided (at least, perhaps,
> some better heat shielding between the two manifolds).
From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 18:56:55 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Tricarb questions
The first one I bought in 1966 and sold in 1968. The only time I had any
trouble with the stock
set-up was when I tried to play with it. It only ran well again only after a
professional, Harry
Woodford, got his hands on it.
My second tri-carb was purchased in 1984; and I still enjoy it today. The
first 8 years I
averaged 1,800 miles per year, the next 9 years saw an average of 4,400 miles
per year, and in the
last 3 years, Ive only averaged 200 miles [dont ask]. My total mileage is
slightly under 54,600
miles in 20 years. Anyway, the lesson from the first tri-carb was not to play
with it until you
know what you are doing. As a result, I basically did what Rich Chrysler
outlined; kept the carbs
clean and dashpots full. Other than that, I have not touched them. Over the
years, I had the
carbs tuned twice. The first time was shortly after I got it in 1984 and the
last time was in
2000 just before I journeyed to Indianapolis for Conclave. That second tune up
was in fact done
by Rich Chrysler.
An excellent point was made by another member of the list, that the carbs need
to be in good
condition and not worn; this is critical and eventually I will have to have
mine rebuilt
professionally. Another point raised had to do with the rear carb getting hot,
boiling the fuel
and causing a vapour lock. This is a problem I have never experienced while
running my tri-carbs.
Steve Gerow, who started this current thread, indicated that he has little
interest in the stock
1.5" tricarb setup. Both of my cars had the stock setup so my notes above will
be of little help
to him. However, like him, I also would like to hear more experience-based
comment on whether
the aftermarket tricarbs stay in tune and which setup produces the best power
with driveability
for a quick street machine?
As an aside, for those of you in the warmer climates, I can only envy you; here
in Ontario it has
been bouncing around -20 to -30 degrees Celsius; in other words, bloody cold.
--Scott Morris [1962 3000 BT7 tricarb-driver; 1960 3000 BN7-project]
Simcoe, Ontario
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 17:38:15 -0700
Subject: Re: plugs & points seting
Dave Russell
Steven Tjepkema wrote:
> Hi everybody I`m going to chang out my old coil and install a lucas
> sport coil and need to know whats the new point seting is and plugs.
> Thanks Steve 58bn4
From "Robert Poague" <rapoague at gte.net>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 17:22:25 -0800
Subject: Re: Arcane Technical Question
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2004 10:22 AM
Subject: Arcane Technical Question
> On the 6-cyl Healeys, the intake manifold sits on two platforms
> on the top of the exhaust manifolds. Anyone know if:
>
> a) this is to support the intake manifold and carbs
>
> b) this is to warm the carbs to prevent carb icing (and speed up
> initial warming)
>
> c) both of the above
>
> The 4-cyl cars do without this arrangement (I believe), as do
> most tri-carb setups. If (a) is the answer, the extra heating of the
> carbs and intake manifold will cause an unnecessary loss of power,
> and maybe a different arrangement could be provided (at least, perhaps,
> some better heat shielding between the two manifolds).
>
>
> bs
> ********************************************
> Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
> '67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
> ********************************************
From Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 20:31:33 -0500
Subject: Carb lifting pin
Scot
66' BJ8
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 17:50:59 -0800
Subject: Re: Carb lifting pin
Seems they get stuck from having fuel, dirt, oil, etc get mixed up with
the decaying small bushing on them. Then they just get stuck in the
hole. Some WD40 or whatever you like soaking in it a day or so may
help. Worked on mine. But seems the thing that looked like a little
bushing or seal pretty much went away when it all freed up. Maybe it
was just dirt plug!
You can't get anything to last for forty years any more!
Brian N.
From "Scott Willis" <ahpowered at hotmail.com>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 20:17:10 -0600
Subject: Front berring shims
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 18:24:24 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Arcane Technical Question
The purpose of this is you need the heat to vaporize
the fuel with an SU side draft carburettor. This
connection makes your car run much better and with
much better fuel efficiency... otherwise you'd have to
keep the choke on all the time except in very hot
weather.
You may find this hard to believe, but on my old '79
MGB, they actually had a little electric heating ring
in there that would pre heat the manifold when the
engine was cold for this very purpose.
If you are worried about engine heat under the bonnet,
you can wrap the down pipes (after the manifold) with
heat tape and that will help reduce under bonnet temps
a bit.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- Bob Spidell <bspidell@pacbell.net> wrote:
> Earl,
>
> Doesn't seem like a good design decision, though.
> There's no
> particular benefit (that I know of)in heating the
> intake manifold;
> the usual purpose is to heat the carb body to offset
> the evaporative
> cooling in the carb throats. Also, tri-manifold
> (e.g. Weber) setups
> don't seem to need to heat the carbs (or
> manifolds).
>
> Suppose the only thing you could do with a stock
> setup is put a
> better insulating plate in between the two. The
> power lost by heating
> the intake charge can be appreciable (well-known to
> pilots), and
> look at the trouble--i.e. intercoolers--turbo'd
> engine designers go to
> to cool the charge.
>
>
> bs
> ********************************************
> Bob Spidell San Jose, CA
> bspidell@pacbell.net
> '67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey
> 100M
> ********************************************
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
> To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>; "Healey
> List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2004 2:05 PM
> Subject: Re: Arcane Technical Question
>
>
> > Bob:
> >
> > It's the Healey version of a heat riser function -
> stock tri-carbs use it as
> > well. There special gaskets between the intake
> and exhaust manifolds that
> > allow an air gap to transfer heat at a calculated
> rate. I don't know if
> > this hurts power at high temperatures or not - one
> would think that the
> > factory would have worked that out. Bear in mind
> here that the inlet
> > manifolds are aluminum ( tri-carbs as well) - that
> may have entered into the
> > design of the set-up.
> >
> > Earl Kagna
> > Victoria, B.C.
> > BT7 tri-carb
> > BJ8
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
> > To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2004 10:22 AM
> > Subject: Arcane Technical Question
> >
> >
> > On the 6-cyl Healeys, the intake manifold sits on
> two platforms
> > on the top of the exhaust manifolds. Anyone know
> if:
> >
> > a) this is to support the intake manifold and
> carbs
> >
> > b) this is to warm the carbs to prevent carb icing
> (and speed up
> > initial warming)
> >
> > c) both of the above
> >
> > The 4-cyl cars do without this arrangement (I
> believe), as do
> > most tri-carb setups. If (a) is the answer, the
> extra heating of the
> > carbs and intake manifold will cause an
> unnecessary loss of power,
> > and maybe a different arrangement could be
> provided (at least, perhaps,
> > some better heat shielding between the two
> manifolds).
From "Nick and Sandy Klein" <klein.ns at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 19:02:34 -0800
Subject: Sticking choke
From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 21:04:56 -0600
Subject: Re: Paint removal
reliably strip my panels without *!#@+ing them up I would. In addition, I
lightly sandblasted a few problem areas on the steel panels with 120psi and got
good results.
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
63 BJ-7
.
Quoting Ron Fine <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>:
> Hello List. I'm collecting opinions on the best way to remove old paint
> to the bare metal for body work and new paint. Some say chemical
> strippers leave residue in the metal or between close fitting parts that
> will ruin the new paint no matter how hard you try to clean it up before
> painting. Others say they always use chemicals or dip into acid baths.
> One painter I consulted would use chemicals and another painter only
> uses a power grinder and sand paper. I don't want to power sand myself
> but I might consider chemical striping in my garage or having them
> dipped locally. What's your opinion or experience?
> Ron
> 61BN7
> 66MGB
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 19:10:08 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Front berring shims
Those shims are critical to making sure your bearings
are properly held in place.
Since the bearings & hub are held in place with a
castle nut & cotter pin, you only have 1 of six
positions while turning the castle nut to fix the
proper ft lbs of torque on the the castle nut when you
tighten it. I'm not sure what the exact figure is in
ft-lbs, but it should be somewhere between 25 ft-lbs
to 40 ft-lbs max (you can do this by feel - if you
have some resistance, somewhat firm but not too much,
that's about right).
If you turn the nut and you get mildly firm resistance
on the castle nut... and it lets you put the cotter
pin in the hole, you are ok.
If the castle nut feels loose in order to get the
cotter in the hole, you need to add a shim or two. If
the castle nut has to be cranked down super tight to
get the cotter pin in the hole, then you need to
remove a couple shims.
Hope that helps,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- Scott Willis <ahpowered@hotmail.com> wrote:
> What's the deal with the front berring shims? Does
> anyone know the order of
> how they should be reinstalled and how many there
> should be? I regreased my
> berrings and I bent a couple. When I tightened the
> hub down there still feels
> light slight play. Are the spacers most likely the
> cause for the play.
> I see size .003, .005, .010, .030. They are
> expensive for pre 1963 cars but
> expensive for post 63 ($.85). Are they different? I
> wanted to buy a bunch but
> at $2.95/3.95 I am limited to how many I want to
> buy.
> Thanks for any suggestions.
> Scott
> Mashed 60 BN7
From "Rick" <webmasterrick at comcast.net>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 21:40:06 -0600
Subject: Re: Paint removal
"Yo Randy The "know it all"!! Er, I mean "Healey Archaeologist".
<< If I found a place that I could trust to
reliably strip my panels without *!#@+ing them up I would.>>
Too bad yer so vain and such an "expert" as to really ask someone who KNOWS,
much less a neighbor!!
Got one IN your own State!!! Used them for YEARS!!!
LMAO!!
Ed"
Don't shoot the messenger!!!
Rick
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 20:43:51 -0700
Subject: Re: Arcane Technical Question
I agree with Alan. Driveability & fuel efficiency should be much better
with some heat on things. Especially for short runs. Some heat on the
carbs combined with a cold air intake would give you the best of both
worlds. Liquid fuel just plain won't burn in the combustion chamber. It
HAS to be vaporized & the more vaporized the more efficient.
Actually, the heat riser (manifold heat) is designed to have limited
heating ability so that the intake runs fairly cool(due to fuel
vaporization & air flow) under high fuel/air flow conditions such as max
power.
Turbo charge cooling only comes into effect at high power output
levels. Something that you probably are not using most of the time.
I guess that it is a matter of whether you want all out power available
Or better running around town. Track use or street use.
Dave Russell
Blue One Hundred wrote:
> Bob -
>
> The purpose of this is you need the heat to vaporize the fuel with an
> SU side draft carburettor. This connection makes your car run much
> better and with much better fuel efficiency... otherwise you'd have
> to keep the choke on all the time except in very hot weather.
>
> You may find this hard to believe, but on my old '79 MGB, they
> actually had a little electric heating ring in there that would pre
> heat the manifold when the engine was cold for this very purpose.
>
> If you are worried about engine heat under the bonnet, you can wrap
> the down pipes (after the manifold) with heat tape and that will help
> reduce under bonnet temps a bit.
>
> Regards,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '64 BJ8
>
> --- Bob Spidell <bspidell@pacbell.net> wrote:
>
>> Earl,
>>
>> Doesn't seem like a good design decision, though. There's no
>> particular benefit (that I know of)in heating the intake manifold;
>> the usual purpose is to heat the carb body to offset the
>> evaporative cooling in the carb throats. Also, tri-manifold (e.g.
>> Weber) setups don't seem to need to heat the carbs (or manifolds).
>>
>>
>> Suppose the only thing you could do with a stock setup is put a
>> better insulating plate in between the two. The power lost by
>> heating the intake charge can be appreciable (well-known to
>> pilots), and look at the trouble--i.e. intercoolers--turbo'd engine
>> designers go to to cool the charge.
>>
>>
>> bs ******************************************** Bob Spidell
>> San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net '67 Austin-Healey 3000
>> '56 Austin-Healey 100M ********************************************
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca> To:
>> "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>; "Healey List"
>> <healeys@autox.team.net> Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2004 2:05 PM
>> Subject: Re: Arcane Technical Question
>>
>>
>>
>>> Bob:
>>>
>>> It's the Healey version of a heat riser function -
>>
>> stock tri-carbs use it as
>>
>>> well. There special gaskets between the intake
>>
>> and exhaust manifolds that
>>
>>> allow an air gap to transfer heat at a calculated
>>
>> rate. I don't know if
>>
>>> this hurts power at high temperatures or not - one
>>
>> would think that the
>>
>>> factory would have worked that out. Bear in mind
>>
>> here that the inlet
>>
>>> manifolds are aluminum ( tri-carbs as well) - that
>>
>> may have entered into the
>>
>>> design of the set-up.
>>>
>>> Earl Kagna Victoria, B.C. BT7 tri-carb BJ8
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 20:38:45 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Sticking choke
This is a common problem with ALL BJ8s. The easiest
fix is to run a couple springs from the choke levers
and fix them to the chassis somewhere. The downside
of this is it makes the choke knob harder to pull out.
The proper way to fix it is to thoroughly clean (and
even rebuild) your carbs, so that the levers return to
closed position with only the force of the jet return
spring (it's the little fast idle cam that hangs up
here)... but to be honest this never seems to work all
that well.
Good luck!
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- Nick and Sandy Klein <klein.ns@worldnet.att.net>
wrote:
> A couple of years ago Joe Curto rebuilt my BJ8 carbs
> (HD8). Recently, after
> the engine has warmed and I push the choke knob back
> home (in), the engine
> does not return to idle but maintains a the 'fast
> run' condition. I replaced
> the choke cables as well as the choke knob.
> I suppose there is a fault (weakness) in some sort
> of spring action. Does the
> jet return spring have anything to do with that or
> perhaps the spring under
> the jet adjusting screw?
> It's a real pain to have to open the bonnet and push
> both linkages down.
> Thanks for any advice.
> Nick and BUNDRGN
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 21:57:48 -0700
Subject: Re: Front berring shims
Dave Russell
BN2
Scott Willis wrote:
> What's the deal with the front berring shims? Does anyone know the order of
> how they should be reinstalled and how many there should be? I regreased my
> berrings and I bent a couple. When I tightened the hub down there still feels
> light slight play. Are the spacers most likely the cause for the play.
> I see size .003, .005, .010, .030. They are expensive for pre 1963 cars but
> expensive for post 63 ($.85). Are they different? I wanted to buy a bunch but
> at $2.95/3.95 I am limited to how many I want to buy.
> Thanks for any suggestions.
> Scott
> Mashed 60 BN7
From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 20:29:58 -0800
Subject: Re: Tricarb questions
I have had two stock tri-carbs and never experienced vapor lock induced as
you state although the rear carb does run hotter.
JS
At 10:06 AM 1/11/04 -0800, Bob Spidell wrote:
>I'm not a tri-carb owner (yet ;), so I can't speak definitively, but isn't
>there
>a (legitimate) problem with the rear carb getting hot, boiling the fuel and
>causing a vapor lock? Presumably, adequate heat-shielding would prevent
From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 00:16:09 EST
Subject: Re: Front berring shims
* * * * * * * * * *
Tech Talk by Norman Nock $30.00 + S/H. SOLD over 1600 copies
A Collection on my tech. articles, that have been in various magazines along
with factory and Lucas bulletins about how things work. In easy to understand
writing. 221 pages Call me for more information at 209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
British Car Specialists 2060 N Wilson Way Stockton CA 95205
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 00:54:28 -0500
Subject: Balancing brake drums - revisited
Some of you may recall a post of mine about a month ago. I still had an
annoying shake at highway speed and, basically, I was asking if the brake
drums could be balanced with a bubble balancer. (For the sake of brevity I'll
not go into all that has been done over the years to reduce the shake, but
much has been done and 85-90% was eliminated.) The few responses which I got
seemed to say it probably could be used.
The thought of the drums being the culprit began to make more and more sense
so I secured an old bubble balancer from my regular mechanic a couple weeks
ago. This particular gadget has to be releveled after every time you go
through the release cycle. Aggrevating! But on the positive side it has a
self-centering cone which positions the wheel/drum on the center of the
balancing platform. I did some trials on 3 extra drums and the technique
seemed to be going OK. Each one was out of balance.
This past week I removed both rear wheels and ran the car (BJ8) to highway
speeds and there was slight shaking. So maybe there is something to this out
of balance drum thing? I took the most suspect L side drum off and put it on
the machine. If was well out of balance. I welded a 9 inch length of 1/4
steel rod in the chanel behind the large diameter fin. By my calculations
that is around 48 g or 1.75 oz. Placed the drum on and reved it up to highway
speed. Felt much better!
I then proceeded with the R side in the same manner. This time approx 32 g or
1.15 oz. This drum was put on the car and reved. Felt even better still! No
shake!!!
I then put the two wheels and tires back on (remember these are Jag E type 72
spoke) and reved again to highway speed. Shaking again! Put each wheel in
turn on the balancer and each was out of balance by about 1 oz or more!!!
Well, to wrap this up, I balanced the front two wheels as well. Each of them
was only out by .25 oz. Took the car out for a test drive. It was
marvelous!!! This is the smoothest this car has felt is 30+ years!!! Of
course, it was hard to sense any fine vibrations coming from the wheels or
drums what with all the other motions of the car and a roadway that was not
perfect. I seemed to sense a little shake at around 2800 rpm (in OD and 3.54
rear). Other than that it was smooth all the way through 3500 rpm.
I am really, really pleased with the results. I would say that 97% of my
shake coming from the rolling masses is gone. What remains could be taken
care of with cutting the tires to round. If any of you have the dreaded
scuttle shake, I strongly recommend taking a look at the balance of brake
drums - I am convinced it has made a really big difference here.
Sorry to be so long winded
Keith Pennell
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 01:04:14 -0500
Subject: Re: Paint removal
I use chemical stripper on the Al parts. The aircraft stuff which Randy
Dickson mentions is the only way to go. Anything else will work you to
death. Obviously sand blasting and sanding can be quite detrimental. Not
much experience with other blast media.
On the steel body parts I used sand. You just have to watch what you are
doing. Don't blast too close or work to long in one spot without allowing
it to cool. Also, you need not have really high pressures like some use.
50-60 lbs works fine. It may take a little longer than say 90 lbs but there
is less heating and warping.
Keith Pennell
> Hello List. I'm collecting opinions on the best way to remove old paint
> to the bare metal for body work and new paint. Some say chemical
> strippers leave residue in the metal or between close fitting parts that
> will ruin the new paint no matter how hard you try to clean it up before
> painting. Others say they always use chemicals or dip into acid baths.
> One painter I consulted would use chemicals and another painter only
> uses a power grinder and sand paper. I don't want to power sand myself
> but I might consider chemical striping in my garage or having them
> dipped locally. What's your opinion or experience?
> Ron
> 61BN7
> 66MGB
From jandav88 at aol.com
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 02:29:53 EST
Subject: Front Shims
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 00:43:07 -0700
Subject: Re: Balancing brake drums - revisited
Keith Pennell wrote:
> Evening Listers,
>
(Snip)
> I am really, really pleased with the results. I would say that 97% of my
> shake coming from the rolling masses is gone. What remains could be taken
> care of with cutting the tires to round. If any of you have the dreaded
> scuttle shake, I strongly recommend taking a look at the balance of brake
> drums - I am convinced it has made a really big difference here.
>
> Sorry to be so long winded
> Keith Pennell
From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 05:59:46 -0500
Subject: Re: Paint removal
From "Heard Saxon" <heard at datatrontech.net>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 08:34:11 -0500
Subject: RE: No Healey Content - Portland's Winter Weather
Heard
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Reid Trummel
Sent: Friday, January 09, 2004 8:46 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: No Healey Content - Portland's Winter Weather
Thanks for all of the expressions of sympathy about the weather here in
Portland this week, but don't feel too sorry for us... next Tuesday we're
headed to Mexico for 30 days. The photo on this webpage is basically
IDENTICAL to the view from our house there:
http://www.lamanzanilla.com/
And I'll be swimming here real soon:
http://lamanzanilla.info/
I take my Margaritas WITH salt, thank you very much...
Reid Trummel
Portland, Oregon
100, 100M, Bugeye, Ski-Master
>From: "Heard Saxon" <heard@datatrontech.net>
>To: "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid@hotmail.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: RE: No Healey Content - Portland's Winter Weather - GOOD URL
>Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 14:34:46 -0500
>
>Bummer! I'd show you a picture of the weather here in Central Florida, but
>my camera is all the way up in the car, and I'm down here on the beach.....
>
>Cheers,
>Heard Saxon
>Enterprise, FL
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
>[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Reid Trummel
>Sent: Friday, January 09, 2004 1:19 PM
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: No Healey Content - Portland's Winter Weather - GOOD URL
>
>Let's try this:
>
>http://www.geocities.com/sebring1955/winter2004.html
>
>Reid Trummel
>Portland, Oregon
>100, 100M, Bugeye, Ski-Master
>
>
> >From: "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid@hotmail.com>
> >Reply-To: "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid@hotmail.com>
> >To: healeys@autox.team.net
> >Subject: No Healey Content - Portland's Winter Weather
> >Date: Fri, 09 Jan 2004 17:37:59 +0000
> >
> >Hi team,
> >
> >You may have heard about what a nasty bit of weather we've been having
>here
> >in the Pacific Northwest (USA). It's true! We've been virtually
> >house-bound for several days now. Here's a photo I took this morning
> >(Friday, January 9) in front of the house:
> >
> >http://www.geocities.com/sebring1955/winter2004.html
> >
> >Reid
> >
> >Reid Trummel
> >Portland, Oregon
> >100, 100M, Bugeye, Ski-Master
_
From "Heard Saxon" <heard at datatrontech.net>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 09:03:06 -0500
Subject: Bump box color
From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 07:06:27 -0700
Subject: Re: Balancing brake drums - revisited
Frogeye@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'62 BT7 MK II, '54 BN1, '62 Fiat 1600S
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@cox.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2004 10:54 PM
Subject: Balancing brake drums - revisited
> Evening Listers,
>
> Some of you may recall a post of mine about a month ago. I still had an
> annoying shake at highway speed and, basically, I was asking if the brake
> drums could be balanced with a bubble balancer. (For the sake of brevity
I'll
> not go into all that has been done over the years to reduce the shake, but
> much has been done and 85-90% was eliminated.) The few responses which I
got
> seemed to say it probably could be used.
>
> The thought of the drums being the culprit began to make more and more
sense
> so I secured an old bubble balancer from my regular mechanic a couple
weeks
> ago. This particular gadget has to be releveled after every time you go
> through the release cycle. Aggrevating! But on the positive side it has
a
> self-centering cone which positions the wheel/drum on the center of the
> balancing platform. I did some trials on 3 extra drums and the technique
> seemed to be going OK. Each one was out of balance.
>
> This past week I removed both rear wheels and ran the car (BJ8) to highway
> speeds and there was slight shaking. So maybe there is something to this
out
> of balance drum thing? I took the most suspect L side drum off and put it
on
> the machine. If was well out of balance. I welded a 9 inch length of 1/4
> steel rod in the chanel behind the large diameter fin. By my calculations
> that is around 48 g or 1.75 oz. Placed the drum on and reved it up to
highway
> speed. Felt much better!
> I then proceeded with the R side in the same manner. This time approx 32
g or
> 1.15 oz. This drum was put on the car and reved. Felt even better still!
No
> shake!!!
>
> I then put the two wheels and tires back on (remember these are Jag E type
72
> spoke) and reved again to highway speed. Shaking again! Put each wheel
in
> turn on the balancer and each was out of balance by about 1 oz or more!!!
>
> Well, to wrap this up, I balanced the front two wheels as well. Each of
them
> was only out by .25 oz. Took the car out for a test drive. It was
> marvelous!!! This is the smoothest this car has felt is 30+ years!!! Of
> course, it was hard to sense any fine vibrations coming from the wheels or
> drums what with all the other motions of the car and a roadway that was
not
> perfect. I seemed to sense a little shake at around 2800 rpm (in OD and
3.54
> rear). Other than that it was smooth all the way through 3500 rpm.
>
> I am really, really pleased with the results. I would say that 97% of my
> shake coming from the rolling masses is gone. What remains could be taken
> care of with cutting the tires to round. If any of you have the dreaded
> scuttle shake, I strongly recommend taking a look at the balance of brake
> drums - I am convinced it has made a really big difference here.
>
> Sorry to be so long winded
> Keith Pennell
From Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 06:19:05 -0800
Subject: Re: Front berring shims
The shims are different. Be sure to get the ones matching the year of
your car. Be sure to assemble the thing without
grease to get to zero endplay otherwise it is a messy, sticky,
frustrating mess. After you know what combination of shims work,
then grease the spindle lightly, pack the bearings liberally and
reassemble. Do not over or undertighten the axle castle nut. You can do
this by feel, it should be tight (zero endplay) yet spin freely. Hope
this helps. I plan on doing this in a few weeks again when I rebuild my
front end. Unfortunatly this is one of those bits of parts you just
need to have on hand. I'll probably be getting 2 of each .003, .005,
.010 and
.030. I probably wont need em all since I know there are some in there
already. I will probably end up with 20$ worth of extra shims.
Tracy
Scott Willis wrote:
>What's the deal with the front berring shims? Does anyone know the order of
>how they should be reinstalled and how many there should be? I regreased my
>berrings and I bent a couple. When I tightened the hub down there still feels
>light slight play. Are the spacers most likely the cause for the play.
>I see size .003, .005, .010, .030. They are expensive for pre 1963 cars but
>expensive for post 63 ($.85). Are they different? I wanted to buy a bunch but
>at $2.95/3.95 I am limited to how many I want to buy.
>Thanks for any suggestions.
>Scott
>Mashed 60 BN7
From "Vink, Graham" <vinkg at fleishman.com>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 09:00:52 -0600
Subject: Re: Not AH - shop air compressors - I bought Sears
I'm glad I got this size compressor - I wouldn't want smaller. It runs a
touch-up spray gun with no difficulty, and I'm hopeful it will also run
an HVLP spray gun.
It's ratings:
SCFM Delivery At 40 psi 8.6 SCFM
SCFM Delivery At 90 psi 6.4 SCFM
You can get a vertical or horizontal tank - they seem to go on sale
about once every six weeks. No affinity with Sears, etc.
-Graham
-----Original Message-----
From: bn1@pacbell.net [mailto:bn1@pacbell.net]
Sent: Friday, January 09, 2004 10:19 PM
To: joe mulqueen; Healey
Subject: Re: re. Re: Not AH - shop air compressors
joe mulqueen wrote:
> Thanks all for the comments, however, why are you guys
> saying I need so much pressure and cfm to operate a
> die grinder? A typical die grinder is rated at 4cfm
> (or less) at 90 psi. If I get a compressor with a
> higher rating (such as 4.2 or 4.5 cfm at 90psi) aren't
> I OK for the task? I'm not going to be using the
> compressor for this day in day out...
> Regards,
> JoeM
> '60 BT
Hi Joe,
For questions like this, you'll get a lot better answers from the
"shop-talk" List. It's also a Majordomo list. Subscribe to it exactly
as you did the Healey List only use shop-talk (with the hyphen). I'm a
subscriber and, trust me, there are people there who know everything
about every kind of tool ever made. Don't buy until you put the
question out to them.
Bill Barnett
'53 BN1 #663
From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 10:39:47 EST
Subject: Re: Tricarb questions
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 11:09:55 EST
Subject: Sprite Body
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2453590733&;
> category=29753
>
Got a line yesterday on a Sprite MkII body shell (chassis, doors, trunk lid,
front clip and bonnet) that is in reported to be in reasonably good shape in
northern California. It was rescued by a car guy who lives near Placerville
from a bunch of car stuff that was destined for the scrapper (they have nasty
"junk yard" laws in that county). He'd like to see it be used in a restoration.
Time is limited since the junk yard inspectors are getting closer to his
property. I haven't seen it and can't report on condition, but would be happy
to put
a Sprite restorer in touch with him. No idea of price, but sure it would be
reasonable as long as the buyer took care of removal.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From "Heard Saxon" <heard at datatrontech.net>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 13:25:40 -0500
Subject: Thanks - Bump box color.
Heard Saxon
From "Nick Batchelor" <nixstar1 at hotmail.com>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 10:54:49 -0800
Subject: Speakers in BJ8
In the past, with an old Blauplunk radio, I had a pair of speakers mounted
on the side panels under the dash. This was okay but the box for the
speakers were in the way and the sound got sort of lost. The speakers were
not that great either. Does anyone have a good solution for installing
seakers for optimum sound location, bearing in mind of course, that the BJ8
has roll up windows. Also, what is the best size speaker? Any suggestion
on radio/cd players that fit without having to destroy or alter the center
console?
Thanks for your suggestions,
Nick
From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 11:13:14 -0800
Subject: RE: Speakers in BJ8
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 16:02:57 -0500
Subject: Re: Balancing brake drums - revisited
Hard to say. My guess is that in most cases it would. But the metal in
probably 75% of these cars has substantially fatigued and corroded over the
years and thus the chassis is not as stiff as it once was.
If I were going to have the engine and tranny out for some reason, I would
do the mod then. If one has access to welder and welding skills, it can be
done for pennies and takes only a half day, including paint touch up. It
certainly would not hurt to have a stiffer chassis.
Keith
> So - Would this reduce or eliminate the need to weld in scuttle
reinforcing?
>
> Keith Pennell wrote:
> > Evening Listers,
> >
> (Snip)
> > I am really, really pleased with the results. I would say that 97% of
my
> > shake coming from the rolling masses is gone. What remains could be
taken
> > care of with cutting the tires to round. If any of you have the dreaded
> > scuttle shake, I strongly recommend taking a look at the balance of
brake
> > drums - I am convinced it has made a really big difference here.
> >
> > Sorry to be so long winded
> > Keith Pennell
From DrBerkowitz at aol.com
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 16:21:43 EST
Subject: Front wheel bearing warning
From tld6008 at mchsi.com
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 23:31:36 +0000
Subject: Re: Paint removal
Tim Davis BN7
> I don't know if it will work on sheet metal, but I have had antique cast
> iron blasted with crushed walnut shells, with no solid metal abrasion. I
> don't know where the local service gets the shells, but they work
> wonderfully. allen miller bn2/M
From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 18:54:06 -0500
Subject: Re: Sticking choke
On a tip from Ed at JustBrits, I made some return springs for the jet levers
out of ballpoint pen springs. These go between the jet lever and the cable
housing. To make a neater installation, I glued on some small washers on each
end of the two-spring stack for each cable. The springs seem to be able to
return the levers just fine, and it isn't so hard to pull out the choke. They
are also pretty near invisible unless you look for them. The number of springs
required can be determined by trial and error. I needed two ballpoint pen
springs on each cable.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Blue One Hundred
To: Nick and Sandy Klein ; healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2004 11:38 PM
Subject: Re: Sticking choke
Nick -
This is a common problem with ALL BJ8s. The easiest
fix is to run a couple springs from the choke levers
and fix them to the chassis somewhere. The downside
of this is it makes the choke knob harder to pull out.
The proper way to fix it is to thoroughly clean (and
even rebuild) your carbs, so that the levers return to
closed position with only the force of the jet return
spring (it's the little fast idle cam that hangs up
here)... but to be honest this never seems to work all
that well.
Good luck!
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- Nick and Sandy Klein <klein.ns@worldnet.att.net>
wrote:
> A couple of years ago Joe Curto rebuilt my BJ8 carbs
> (HD8). Recently, after
> the engine has warmed and I push the choke knob back
> home (in), the engine
> does not return to idle but maintains a the 'fast
> run' condition. I replaced
> the choke cables as well as the choke knob.
> I suppose there is a fault (weakness) in some sort
> of spring action. Does the
> jet return spring have anything to do with that or
> perhaps the spring under
> the jet adjusting screw?
> It's a real pain to have to open the bonnet and push
> both linkages down.
> Thanks for any advice.
> Nick and BUNDRGN
From "Mike Brouillette" <m.brouillette at comcast.net>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 18:59:06 -0500
Subject: RE: Paint removal
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of tld6008@mchsi.com
Sent: Monday, January 12, 2004 6:32 PM
To: Allen C Miller, Jr.
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net; Keith Pennell
Subject: Re: Paint removal
FYI due to enviromental concerns when they blast offshore (oil & gas)
platforms
nowadays they use Baking Soda instead of sand or silicon abrasive. When it
hits
the water it dissolves. Don't know how or where to but it in bulk.
Tim Davis BN7
> I don't know if it will work on sheet metal, but I have had antique cast
> iron blasted with crushed walnut shells, with no solid metal abrasion. I
> don't know where the local service gets the shells, but they work
> wonderfully. allen miller bn2/M
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sasktel.net>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 19:00:31 -0600
Subject: Re: Paint removal
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
'65 BJ8
'89 Morgan 4/4
Mike Brouillette wrote:
> You can buy crushed walnut shells at pet supply houses. They are used for
> big bird...
From bn1 at pacbell.net
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 18:03:11 -0800
Subject: Re: re. Re: Not AH - shop air compressors
> Joe,
>
> Does the shop talk list have any archives that I could search? If so would
> you be so kind as to point me in the right direction? I am preparing to do
> a frame up on my healey and I am just dying to start spending money on
> tools; air compressor, air tools, etc.
>
> John
> '62 healey
>
Yes, John, they do although I've never used them.
http://www.team.net/archive/shop-talk
Bill Barnett
'53 BN1 #663
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 18:39:12 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Speakers in BJ8
Radio shack used to sell these very nice box speakers
called Minimus 77 (they were rebadged Bose
speakers)which I have mounted in my BJ8 under the dash
on the heater air channel. This is the ideal place to
put speakers in the BJ8 - out of the way & out of
sight (keeping original appearance) but with nice box
speakers delivering great sound. You'll want box
speakers so that you don't have to do any cutting to
mount them in your car.
Don't be stuck with using "CAR" audio speakers...
standard speakers will work with a car stereo as well.
This gives you a much wider variety of products to
choose from. Most specifically, you should look at
OUTDOOR speaker products, as those will most likely be
packaged in a way that comes with mounts that you can
use and also have protection against the elements. as
an example, here's a very nice set of speakers that
arent too expensive and will fit in the space under
the dash:
http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S-99GFD9cCxVt/ProdView.asp?I=107ATR45B
I am also looking at removing my in dash reciver CD
player totally and just hooking my portable MP3 player
straight into my car's amplifier through the RCA
contacts. I still have to probably rig up some sort
of pre amp to make the set up work... but this will
allow me to keep the dash and interior appearance 100%
stock.
Hope that helps.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- Nick Batchelor <nixstar1@hotmail.com> wrote:
> I'm restoring my BJ8 and want to install a new
> radio/cd system. If this has
> been discussed before, forgive me. I could only
> find discussion on radio
> converters in the archives.
>
> In the past, with an old Blauplunk radio, I had a
> pair of speakers mounted
> on the side panels under the dash. This was okay but
> the box for the
> speakers were in the way and the sound got sort of
> lost. The speakers were
> not that great either. Does anyone have a good
> solution for installing
> seakers for optimum sound location, bearing in mind
> of course, that the BJ8
> has roll up windows. Also, what is the best size
> speaker? Any suggestion
> on radio/cd players that fit without having to
> destroy or alter the center
> console?
>
> Thanks for your suggestions,
> Nick
From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 20:41:34 -0600
Subject: Re: Paint removal, baking soda for cleaning parts
got a cheapo blast cabinet from Harbor Freight for $120 or so and baking soda
at Sam's club in 10 pounds boxes for something like $4 a box. Three boxes were
plenty for lots of part blasting. I never used it to strip paint though. I
don't think that it is abrasive enough though.
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
63 BJ-7
Quoting tld6008@mchsi.com:
> FYI due to enviromental concerns when they blast offshore (oil & gas)
> platforms
> nowadays they use Baking Soda instead of sand or silicon abrasive. When it
> hits
> the water it dissolves. Don't know how or where to but it in bulk.
>
> Tim Davis BN7
> > I don't know if it will work on sheet metal, but I have had antique cast
> > iron blasted with crushed walnut shells, with no solid metal abrasion. I
> > don't know where the local service gets the shells, but they work
> > wonderfully. allen miller bn2/M
From "Bob, Kim, Rob, Bandit and Pepper" <thewalkers at qwest.net>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 19:53:31 -0700
Subject: Re: Paint removal
I agree with the aircraft stripper on aluminum. I used plastic putty
knives from home depot ($0.48 each I think) to remove the paint. I also
found some old bondo, and repeated soaking in the aircraft stripper and
scraping with the plastic putty knife removed it all without a scratch
to the aluminum.
BUT BE CAREFUL. The stripper I used was highly caustic (it had an
ammoniacal odor) and the ingredients list had first (so the largest
proportion) is methylene chloride. Highly caustic fluid are the
opposite of highly acidic fluids, and are just as dangerous because they
want to will chemically react with anything they are in contact with and
will burn your skin - I got a small drop of spatter on me and it did a
number even on my hand even 'though I rinsed if off quickly.
Methylene chloride is a halogenated solvent that will absorb into your
skin quite easily and irritate it, and will evaporate fast so can be
breathed in easily and irritate your respiratory system. You can get
intoxicated by it at high concentrations. Like lots of other solvents,
smell in no indication of how much you are breathing. Often once you
smell it, your brain filters out that reaction and it doesn't smell that
strongly. The 8 hour OSHA exposure limit is 25ppm, and the 15 minute
exposure limit is 125ppm. The odor threshold is 200-300 ppm. So your
are over exposed long before your nose detects it. Methylene Chloride
is also very bad in your eyes and will burn and scar the corneas. It is
suspected to cause cancer.
There is probably lots of other not so good stuff in there.
So, what to do. Don't get too worried, just take the correct
precautions. First - Safety goggles - take no chances here, long sleeve
shirt, the correct gloves - nitrile and viton are ok for intermittent
use, PVA for immersion (this stuff will soak through a latex or kitchen
rubber glove in no time, your hands start to feel a burn). Second - do
it outside with lots of air circulation - I know it dries up fast -
that's the evaporation of the methylene chloride, so soak a rag and
leave it on the part to strip. Be careful with respirators, it is hard
to get the right ones commercially, and if you have any breathing
problems, the real good ones may cause you to not get enough oxygen.
Third - Have a running fresh water supply on hand, it you get it on you
take off the clothes right away and hose yourself off.
Also, this makes a total mess, the paint that comes off is a gooey,
pasty mess. I took several 1 gallon water jugs, and cut the top half
off. That way I could scrap the old paint/stripper crap into it and
used lots of paper towels to wipe it up. You will be surprised how much
this is. I bagged it up is trash bags and double bagged it. Water
(lots) rinsed it off well.
For my car, the steel parts were sand blasted, lightest grit and lowest
pressure.
So, probably more than you wanted to know, these were fairly common
chemicals in the circuit board industry about 20 years ago and mostly
got phased out.
Good luck and best regards,
Bob Walker
From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 21:54:17 -0500
Subject: Re: Paint removal
Yes, heaven forbid we should get any sand in the ocean. :-(
--
John Miller
When childhood dies, its corpses are called adults.
-Brian Aldiss
From "Rick &7& Neves" <Rick at genomictechnologies.com>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 22:34:18 -0500
Subject: Overdirve gaskets
Rick Neves
'56 BN-2
_._
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.558 / Virus Database: 350 - Release Date: 01/02/2004
From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 22:52:31 -0500
Subject: Re: Paint removal
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
| > FYI due to enviromental concerns when they blast offshore (oil & gas)
| > platforms nowadays they use Baking Soda instead of sand or silicon
| > abrasive. When it hits the water it dissolves.
|
| Yes, heaven forbid we should get any sand in the ocean. :-(
|
| --
| John Miller
From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 21:59:07 -0600
Subject: Re: Speakers in BJ8
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
>
> Radio shack used to sell these very nice box speakers
> called Minimus 77 (they were rebadged Bose
> speakers)which I have mounted in my BJ8 under the dash
> on the heater air channel. This is the ideal place to
> put speakers in the BJ8 - out of the way & out of
> sight (keeping original appearance) but with nice box
> speakers delivering great sound. You'll want box
> speakers so that you don't have to do any cutting to
> mount them in your car.
>
> Don't be stuck with using "CAR" audio speakers...
> standard speakers will work with a car stereo as well.
> This gives you a much wider variety of products to
> choose from. Most specifically, you should look at
> OUTDOOR speaker products, as those will most likely be
> packaged in a way that comes with mounts that you can
> use and also have protection against the elements. as
> an example, here's a very nice set of speakers that
> arent too expensive and will fit in the space under
> the dash:
>
> http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S-99GFD9cCxVt/ProdView.asp?I=107ATR45B
>
> I am also looking at removing my in dash reciver CD
> player totally and just hooking my portable MP3 player
> straight into my car's amplifier through the RCA
> contacts. I still have to probably rig up some sort
> of pre amp to make the set up work... but this will
> allow me to keep the dash and interior appearance 100%
> stock.
From Brian Burke <wharf-st at shaw.ca>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 20:33:24 -0800
Subject: Paint Removal
Brian
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 23:40:19 -0500
Subject: ebay ads
Anyone have any idea why the large number of Healey models, mags, t shirts and
so forth on ebay recently? What is usually around 200 Healey items is
probably 3 to 4 times that number in the past couple weeks.
Just curious
Keith Pennell
From Ron Fine <RonFineEsq at earthlink.net>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 21:02:54 -0800
Subject: Paint removal
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 22:34:00 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Speakers in BJ8
With the amps available these days for cars, power is
no problem! Even a 50 watt amp will be all that you
need. That's what I have on my BJ8 and it's plenty
loud!
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- Chris Masucci <sooch@houston.rr.com> wrote:
> I guess the only issue here is that automotive
> speakers are 4 ohm and home
> speakers like these are 8 ohm. Less volume with the
> same power, in other
> words. If you have the power, fine, but otherwise
> you might not be able to
> overcome road noise.
>
> Cheers,
> Chris
> BJ8
> >
> > Radio shack used to sell these very nice box
> speakers
> > called Minimus 77 (they were rebadged Bose
> > speakers)which I have mounted in my BJ8 under the
> dash
> > on the heater air channel. This is the ideal place
> to
> > put speakers in the BJ8 - out of the way & out of
> > sight (keeping original appearance) but with nice
> box
> > speakers delivering great sound. You'll want box
> > speakers so that you don't have to do any cutting
> to
> > mount them in your car.
> >
> > Don't be stuck with using "CAR" audio speakers...
> > standard speakers will work with a car stereo as
> well.
> > This gives you a much wider variety of products
> to
> > choose from. Most specifically, you should look
> at
> > OUTDOOR speaker products, as those will most
> likely be
> > packaged in a way that comes with mounts that you
> can
> > use and also have protection against the elements.
> as
> > an example, here's a very nice set of speakers
> that
> > arent too expensive and will fit in the space
> under
> > the dash:
> >
> >
>
http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S-99GFD9cCxVt/ProdView.asp?I=107ATR45B
> >
> > I am also looking at removing my in dash reciver
> CD
> > player totally and just hooking my portable MP3
> player
> > straight into my car's amplifier through the RCA
> > contacts. I still have to probably rig up some
> sort
> > of pre amp to make the set up work... but this
> will
> > allow me to keep the dash and interior appearance
> 100%
> > stock.
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 02:11:54 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Tricarb questions
As a general rule, SUs, if they are in good running
order, will almost never go out of tune once they are
set up.
Alot of people think the carbs go out of tune when
actually its just their points gap wearing &
changing... this changes the dwell/timing of the car.
If you keep your points gapped properly all the
time.. or if you run a pertronix electronic ignition
kit... you'll probably never need to adjust your carbs
regardless of whether you go with a 2x2 or 3x1.75.
The only thing is the 2x2 will probably easier to
initially wet up with your hot street machine, as
you'll have to go through 1/3 less springs, needles
and hassles to get it set up for your modified motor.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- Steve Gerow <sgerow@singular.com> wrote:
> I'm deciding whether to go with a DMD 2x 2" setup or
> a Welch (or Cape?)
> 1.75" tricarb setup.
>
> I was told by a knowledgable healey guy the tricarbs
> will not stay in tune
> for any length of time and that's their problem. He
> was referring to the
> stock setup.
>
> Would like to hear experience-based comment on
> whether the aftermarket
> tricarbs stay in tune. Don't care if they're hard to
> tune, only if they stay
> in tune. Also don't care about the stock 1.5"
> tricarb setup.
>
> The other thing I'm curious about is, tuning aside,
> which setup produces the
> best power with driveability for a hot street
> machine?
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
From Rick Neville <healeyrick at yahoo.com>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 02:38:19 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: ebay ads
Happy Healeying,
Rick
--- Keith Pennell <pennell@cox.net> wrote:
> Listers,
>
> Anyone have any idea why the large number of Healey
> models, mags, t shirts and
> so forth on ebay recently? What is usually around
> 200 Healey items is
> probably 3 to 4 times that number in the past couple
> weeks.
>
> Just curious
> Keith Pennell
>
>
__________________________________
Yahoo! Hotjobs: Enter the "Signing Bonus" Sweepstakes
http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/signingbonus
From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 07:44:28 -0500
Subject: Re: Paint Removal
allen miller
From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at verizon.net>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 08:41:12 -0500
Subject: Re: Paint Removal
Practiced on a couple aluminum cans to get the process down then fixed
several cracks and holes in an aluminum boot lid.
A friend has repaired a motorcycle engine case and a brake housing.
So far so good - google search will find the web site, you can order
from there. Three pounds plus shipping is right near $100.00.
Products for steel and cast also available. Satisfied customer, NFI,
etc.
CB
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 06:56:48 -0800
Subject: Re: Paint Removal
I tried this stuff--or something similar--a few years ago. Was trying to build
up
the body of an SU fuel pump to close the gap between the body and the coil
(which had been stretched by the 6 attaching screws).
Ended up melting the Al pump body before the Al "welding" rods would melt
and flow. Had tried it on an Al pan for practice--same results (I know,
shoulda
learned ... ).
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2004 4:44 AM
Subject: Re: Paint Removal
> Has anyone used the aluminum brazing medium advertised in infomercials on
> cable TV. I watched in fascination for half an hour. I think it was called
> Lumaweld or something close to that. It is applied without flux to the
> aluminum surface with a propane torch, well below the melting point. The
> demonstration showed repairs of structural elements (e.g., broken bolting
> projections on the edge of a bell housing) and sheet metal. Might this be
> useful in body repairs of the shrouds? Any experience with it? Does anyone
> know the correct name or the ordering number (I think it was $46.00 per
> pound of rods).
>
> allen miller
From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 09:24:47 -0600
Subject: RE: Sticking choke
-----Original Message-----
From: BJ8Healeys [mailto:sbyers@ec.rr.com]
Sent: Monday, January 12, 2004 5:54 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Sticking choke
I had my carbs rebuilt by Joe Curto also, and they still wouldn't return
the
choke without some help.
On a tip from Ed at JustBrits, I made some return springs for the jet
levers
out of ballpoint pen springs. These go between the jet lever and the
cable
housing. To make a neater installation, I glued on some small washers
on each
end of the two-spring stack for each cable. The springs seem to be able
to
return the levers just fine, and it isn't so hard to pull out the choke.
They
are also pretty near invisible unless you look for them. The number of
springs
required can be determined by trial and error. I needed two ballpoint
pen
springs on each cable.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
From "Heard Saxon" <heard at datatrontech.net>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 11:02:05 -0500
Subject: Alumalloy
Check it out:
http://www.virtual-adnet.com/alumiweld/
Heard Saxon
From "Heard Saxon" <heard at datatrontech.net>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 11:04:57 -0500
Subject: Alumaloy
http://www.alumaloy.com/
Heard Saxon
From Stella67 at aol.com
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 11:00:51 -0500
Subject: Re: Speakers in BJ8
1. Cut two holes in the sides of the side panels of the passenger and driver
foot wells. Had head lamp buckets welded into the side panels that fit right
into the area behind the trim panels. They fit behind the hinge panel and
under the bracing. I cut out only the backing behind the trim so the covering
fit over the hole and speakers. Installed 4" speakers. You need to find short
speakers because the magnet will hit the metal bucket if you aren't careful.
2. Installed an amp hidden under dash on the passenger side up in the pedal box
area. Insullated it well to keep the heat off the amp. It has to be a small
amp but there are plenty with lots of power and very large so they fit the
space. I secured the amp to a piece of plywood and fastened that to the
superstructure. It's not an easy place to get to but once it's in there isn't
much maintenace.
3. Installed a pair of 4" speakers and a pair of 1" tweeters behind the rear
seat backing area. I carefully cut the backer board before installing the
upholstery. I used foam speaker boxes to cover the back of the speaks
(Crutchfields has them)
4. I used a Blauplunk radio with adjustable knob settings. With a little
work. The radio fit into the orignial area and looked like it belonged.
This set up work extremely well and was not that costly. Of course it was all
done while the car was apart and I had to search for an amp that would fit
(Sony I believe) Without looking very hard you could not see a speakers or the
amp. And, I could crank it up and listen to lots of music while blasting down
the road. Best change I ever made.
I am working on something similar for my BN7 but haven't worked out all the
details yet. Because of the difference in interiors this one will be removeable
to some extent without lots of work.
Have fun!
John
From Bob T <btarh2o at earthlink.net>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 11:07:56 -0600
Subject: Re: ebay ads
>Listers,
>
>Anyone have any idea why the large number of Healey models, mags, t shirts and
>so forth on ebay recently? What is usually around 200 Healey items is
>probably 3 to 4 times that number in the past couple weeks.
>
>Just curious
>Keith Pennell
>
>Keith and all
>
Santa brought the wrong stuff?--No bobble heads or fluffy dice?
>Bob Tarwater
>
BJ7
>arwater
From tld6008 at mchsi.com
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 18:41:30 +0000
Subject: Re: Paint removal
Tim Davis BN7
> On Monday, January 12, 2004 6:31 pm, tld6008@mchsi.com wrote:
> > FYI due to enviromental concerns when they blast offshore (oil & gas)
> > platforms nowadays they use Baking Soda instead of sand or silicon
> > abrasive. When it hits the water it dissolves.
>
> Yes, heaven forbid we should get any sand in the ocean. :-(
>
> --
> John Miller
>
> When childhood dies, its corpses are called adults.
> -Brian Aldiss
From "Sid Bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 11:55:33 -0700
Subject: Deck hinges
Trying to determine left from right on deck hinges. Do they angle away from
center line of deck or towards center line.
Thanks
Sid 65 BJ8
From "R.J. Denton" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 14:18:33 -0600
Subject: Re: ebay ads
Bob D.
Bob T wrote:
> Keith Pennell wrote:
>
> >Listers,
> >
> >Anyone have any idea why the large number of Healey models, mags, t shirts
>and
> >so forth on ebay recently? What is usually around 200 Healey items is
> >probably 3 to 4 times that number in the past couple weeks.
> >
> >Just curious
> >Keith Pennell
> >
> >Keith and all
> >
> Santa brought the wrong stuff?--No bobble heads or fluffy dice?
>
> >Bob Tarwater
> >
> BJ7
>
> >arwater
From "Mike Brouillette" <m.brouillette at comcast.net>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 14:56:09 -0500
Subject: RE: ebay ads
Sometimes it's just realizing that if you sell these 2 pieces of junk,
just maybe you can buy that other piece of junk you've always wanted...
Mike B
59 BT7
Ebayer since Sept 1997
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Keith Pennell
Sent: Monday, January 12, 2004 11:40 PM
To: healey list
Subject: ebay ads
Listers,
Anyone have any idea why the large number of Healey models, mags, t shirts
and
so forth on ebay recently? What is usually around 200 Healey items is
probably 3 to 4 times that number in the past couple weeks.
Just curious
Keith Pennell
From "Len and/or Marge" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 12:11:54 -0800
Subject: Re: Paint removal
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA
1967 3000 MKIII HBJ8L39031
> [Original Message]
> From: <tld6008@mchsi.com>
> To: John Miller <healeys@n4vu.com>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 1/13/2004 10:41:58 AM
> Subject: Re: Paint removal
>
> It's amazing how strict the enviromental regulations have become. Not
that is a
> bad thing. It is actually against OSHA regulations to have an empty 5 gal
> plastic bucket sitting around with out drilling a hole in it. Heaven
forbid you
> might put something (liquid)in it it wasnt designed for. Actually there
is a
> REMOTE possibility that if hydrocarbons or other flamable fluids were put
in it
> and then poured out a static charge could develope and then BOOM!
>
> Tim Davis BN7
> > On Monday, January 12, 2004 6:31 pm, tld6008@mchsi.com wrote:
> > > FYI due to enviromental concerns when they blast offshore (oil & gas)
> > > platforms nowadays they use Baking Soda instead of sand or silicon
> > > abrasive. When it hits the water it dissolves.
> >
> > Yes, heaven forbid we should get any sand in the ocean. :-(
> >
> > --
> > John Miller
> >
> > When childhood dies, its corpses are called adults.
> > -Brian Aldiss
From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 15:41:41 -0500
Subject: RE: Deck hinges
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Sid Bronson
Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2004 1:56 PM
To: healey forum
Subject: Deck hinges
Listers,
Trying to determine left from right on deck hinges. Do they angle away
from
center line of deck or towards center line.
Thanks
Sid 65 BJ8
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 14:13:07 -0800
Subject: Re: Deck hinges
::Listers,
::
::Trying to determine left from right on deck hinges. Do they angle away from
::center line of deck or towards center line.
::Thanks
::Sid 65 BJ8
Sid-
They follow the contours of the shroud and deck: hold at arms length
with the mounting studs vertical, they way they would be mounted on
the car. The left hand hinge's left edge should appear lower than the
right edge. The right hand hinge's right edge should appear to be
lower than the left edge. That way they match the contour of the
shroud with the threaded studs vertical (so the deck will open without
torquing the studs and trying to bend the deck and shroud metal.)
-Roland
From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 17:22:34 -0500
Subject: Re: Deck hinges
Sid --
When you say "angle away," which end are you thinking of?
An important thing to know is that the hinge pins must be on the same straight
line, so if that's not true in both orientations, you know which one must be
right.
--
John Miller
"There is no distinctly American criminal class except Congress."
-Mark Twain
From "Kent McLean" <kentmclean at mindspring.com>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 18:38:51 -0500
Subject: Re: Paint removal
> FYI due to enviromental concerns when they blast offshore
> (oil & gas) platforms nowadays they use Baking Soda instead
> of sand or silicon abrasive. When it hits the water it dissolves.
And what about the paint that they were blasting?
I hope it wasn't lead paint. Probably just copper
oxide or something harmless like that.
Cynically yours,
Kent
'56 100 BN2
From Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 18:52:20 -0500
Subject: soft brakes
From "John Soderling" <jsoderling at astound.net>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 17:29:35 -0800
Subject: Test
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 17:40:30 -0800
Subject: Re: soft brakes
Just my 2cents.
Brian N.
http://www.beachcitygas.com/ixora2.jpg
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 18:03:33 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: soft brakes
For a drum braked healey, you have to bleed the brakes
following the process described in your factory
manual.
You start by bleeding the farthest brakes from the
master cylinder (by length of brake line) and ending
with the nearest brakes.
So you must bleed the left rear, then right rear, then
left front and then finally right front brakes. When
you bleed completely in this order, then you will have
pedal pressure come back.
Best Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net> wrote:
> Hi everybody I rebuilt all most everything on my
> brakes that was bad replace anything that was
> leaking rebuilt my 3/4 bore master cyl.change all
> rubber hose.bleed system a lot. Still have to pump
> up my brakes for a normal pedal. Is this what it is.
> Thanks Steve 58bn4
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 18:05:14 -0800
Subject: What is the correct shift lever boot...
Is this correct?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=42612&item=2453616281
Thanks for the help.
Brian N.
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 18:12:03 -0800
Subject: Attn Smitty convert fans:
800-475-3333 will get you to the Sacramento shop. They have three others.
Just a tip FWIW. I know nothing about these guys. All caveats apply.
http://beachcitygas.com/index
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 18:17:10 -0800
Subject: Who WOULD'NT be happy!!!!
http://beachcitygas.com/birthday4.jpg
From Barry K Thysell <bkthysell at juno.com>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 19:08:09 -0800
Subject: Requests to install Japanese Characters???
________________________________________________________________
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 19:37:15 -0800
Subject: Re: ebay ads
> Saddam's son had a Healey
So that means there's a nice Healey available in Iraq, right?
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "R.J. Denton" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Bob T" <btarh2o@earthlink.net>
Cc: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@cox.net>; "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2004 12:18 PM
Subject: Re: ebay ads
> The morality police in conjunction with Homeland Security just realized that
> Saddam's son had a Healey so all Healey cars and symbols of Healey cars make
>you a
> suspect for being a terrorist.
>
> Bob D.
From "Bob, Kim, Rob, Bandit and Pepper" <thewalkers at qwest.net>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 20:38:03 -0700
Subject: Re: Aluminimum Welding/Brazing Rod
Here is another one. I bought this and haven't tried it yet.
Website is: http://www.aladdin3in1.com/catalog.htm
If you look at the end of the catalogue page it says private labels
available, is the the source of this stuff for all these places?
They also have an 800 number. You can call and talk to them. they are
in Grand Rapids Michigan. Must be great guys, I was born there and I'm
a ... oh you get it ;-}
enjoy!
Bob Walker
In Arizona. It was 80 today. But 80 in January means it will be hotter
than h**l this summer.
From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 01:10:33 EST
Subject: Horn wiring question
From "Len and/or Marge" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 22:48:25 -0800
Subject: Re: Paint removal
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA
1967 3000 MKIII HBJ8L39031
> [Original Message]
> From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
> To: Len and/or Marge <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
> Date: 1/14/2004 5:52:00 PM
> Subject: Re: Paint removal
>
> Ok. I give up.
>
> So what was the point of actually keeping the 5 gal plastic bucket after
> you'd drilled the holes in it?? To use it as a sieve??
>
> Chris
> Perplexed in Sydney....
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Len and/or Marge" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
> To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2004 7:11 AM
> Subject: Re: Paint removal
>
>
> > I believe that the requirement to drill holes in the bucket is a child
> > safety matter. It was considered necessary after one or more very young
> > children fell head first into buckets, could not get themselves out, and
> > drowned, sometimes with very little water in the bucket.
> >
> > (The Other) Len
> > Vacaville, CA
> > 1967 3000 MKIII HBJ8L39031
> >
> >
> > > [Original Message]
> > > From: <tld6008@mchsi.com>
> > > To: John Miller <healeys@n4vu.com>
> > > Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > Date: 1/13/2004 10:41:58 AM
> > > Subject: Re: Paint removal
> > >
> > > It's amazing how strict the enviromental regulations have become. Not
> > that is a
> > > bad thing. It is actually against OSHA regulations to have an empty 5
> gal
> > > plastic bucket sitting around with out drilling a hole in it. Heaven
> > forbid you
> > > might put something (liquid)in it it wasnt designed for. Actually
there
> > is a
> > > REMOTE possibility that if hydrocarbons or other flamable fluids were
> put
> > in it
> > > and then poured out a static charge could develope and then BOOM!
> > >
> > > Tim Davis BN7
> > > > On Monday, January 12, 2004 6:31 pm, tld6008@mchsi.com wrote:
> > > > > FYI due to enviromental concerns when they blast offshore (oil &
> gas)
> > > > > platforms nowadays they use Baking Soda instead of sand or silicon
> > > > > abrasive. When it hits the water it dissolves.
> > > >
> > > > Yes, heaven forbid we should get any sand in the ocean. :-(
> > > >
> > > > --
> > > > John Miller
> > > >
> > > > When childhood dies, its corpses are called adults.
> > > > -Brian Aldiss
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at westnet.com.au>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 16:51:12 +0800
Subject: Re: What is the correct shift lever boot...
That looks the same as on my BT7. The boot is upside down in the photo.
Cheers
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian N" <brian@beachcitygas.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2004 10:05 AM
Subject: What is the correct shift lever boot...
> I have a BT7 side shifter. The shift boot on it is the dog dish type
> that goes down not up. There is a different type available, as pictured
> in this eBay listing.
>
> Is this correct?
>
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=42612&item=2453616281
>
> Thanks for the help.
>
> Brian N.
From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 07:53:31 -0500
Subject: Re: Requests to install Japanese Characters???
Yes, that'd be me. I have Japanese language support installed on my Linux
box, but the encoding on "regular" messages should be Western European, so
let me check my config. Thanks, and apologies for any disruption.
--
John Miller
Before Xerox, five carbons were the maximum extension of anybody's ego.
From Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 06:22:54 -0800
Subject: Re: What is the correct shift lever boot...
Yes but as others have mentioned it is pictured upside down. I put a
large diameter hose clamp on the transmission side to hold it on (you
can see the 1/2 in or so spot on the photo). The top "grommets?" onto
the tunnel opening.
Tracy
Brian N wrote:
> I have a BT7 side shifter. The shift boot on it is the dog dish type
> that goes down not up. There is a different type available, as
> pictured in this eBay listing.
>
> Is this correct?
>
>
>http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=42612&item=2453616281
>
>
>
> Thanks for the help.
>
> Brian N.
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Brian N" <brian@beachcitygas.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 09:40:12 -0500
Subject: What is the correct shift lever boot...
> I have a BT7 side shifter. The shift boot on it is the dog dish type
> that goes down not up. There is a different type available, as pictured
> in this eBay listing.
>
> Is this correct?
>
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=42612&item=2453616281
>
> Thanks for the help.
>
> Brian N.
From "John Soderling" <jsoderling at astound.net>
From: "Len and/or Marge" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "John Soderling" <jsoderling@astound.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 07:19:22 -0800
Subject: RE: Test
> John: After the planning meeting? Pop quiz or Finals?
>
> (The Other) Len
> Vacaville, CA
> 1967 3000 MKIII HBJ8L39031
>
>
> > [Original Message]
> > From: John Soderling <jsoderling@astound.net>
> > To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Date: 1/13/2004 5:30:01 PM
> > Subject: Test
> >
> > Test
From "Len and/or Marge" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: "Len and/or Marge" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "John Soderling" <jsoderling@astound.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 08:59:46 -0800
Subject: Re: Test
A recent experience for me was a switch from Outlook Express to Earthlink's
Total Access e-mail program. In transferring the Address Book, it
duplicated every address. Ain't technology wonderful???
Sputter, Sputter.
Len
> [Original Message]
> From: John Soderling <jsoderling@astound.net>
> To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>; <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
> Date: 1/14/2004 7:19:28 AM
> Subject: Re: Test
>
> Len,
> Pop quiz. No, just checking to see if I could send a message.
> Need help from the list. I got a new computer at Christmas and after
> hooking it up to my same service provider, found out that I was only
> receiving Healey list messages - could not send. So I resubscribed and
then
> I could send but was getting duplicates of every message, which I don't
> need! I've tried everything from unsubscribing and then resubscribing and
> nothing stops the double messages.
> Help. Anyone else ever experienced this problem, and how did you correct
> it? I've written to the list administrator but have not heard back yet.
> Thanks.
> Vrooom vrooom,
> John
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Len and/or Marge" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
> To: "John Soderling" <jsoderling@astound.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2004 10:24 PM
> Subject: RE: Test
>
>
> > John: After the planning meeting? Pop quiz or Finals?
> >
> > (The Other) Len
> > Vacaville, CA
> > 1967 3000 MKIII HBJ8L39031
> >
> >
> > > [Original Message]
> > > From: John Soderling <jsoderling@astound.net>
> > > To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > Date: 1/13/2004 5:30:01 PM
> > > Subject: Test
> > >
> > > Test
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: "Len and/or Marge" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "John Soderling" <jsoderling@astound.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 09:56:18 -0800
Subject: Re: What is the correct shift lever boot...
Thanks
Brian
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: "Len and/or Marge" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "John Soderling" <jsoderling@astound.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 10:00:07 -0800
Subject: Re: Horn wiring question..related issue
But I am missing the lower securing nut and olive. Are these any thing
special (I know they are in the catalogs), or can I just get some
compression fittings from the local plumbing store?
Thanks in advance.
Brian.
From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Len and/or Marge" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "John Soderling" <jsoderling@astound.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 10:46:53 -0800
Subject: RE: Horn wiring question..related issue
-----Original Message-----
From: Brian N [mailto:brian@beachcitygas.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2004 10:00 AM
To: Simonlachlan@aol.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Horn wiring question..related issue
My car came with a Moto Lita with AH logo horn push (nothing functional,
though). The trafficator came with the car, but not installed. It is a
long rod non-adjustable. It tests out OK, has a long (clipped) wiring
pigtail, and hopefully can go in without too much fuss. I have seen
these installed on Moto Lita steering wheels.
But I am missing the lower securing nut and olive. Are these any thing
special (I know they are in the catalogs), or can I just get some
compression fittings from the local plumbing store?
Thanks in advance.
Brian.
From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: "Len and/or Marge" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "John Soderling" <jsoderling@astound.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 14:13:40 -0500
Subject: Re: Horn wiring question..related issue
From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Len and/or Marge" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "John Soderling" <jsoderling@astound.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 14:25:27 EST
Subject: Re: Horn wiring question..related issue
For your non-adjustable wheel the setscrews won't be there, so no worries.
You will need to bend the actuating lever to mate with the self-cancelling ring
though.
Rick-Mota Lita-non-adjustable-Wilkins
San Diego
In a message dated 1/14/04 11:16:02 AM, Healeyguy@aol.com writes:
> One other thing on fitting the Motolita wheel with the original control
> head (trafficator), the set screw holes in the hub may or may not be in the
> correct location, fore and aft, to hold the cancelling ring but not drag the
> bakelite against the steering hub. In many cases the screw holes are to deep
>in
> the hub and must be redrilled about 1/8 inch futher out.
> Aloha
> Perry
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Brian N" <brian@beachcitygas.com>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 15:24:35 -0500
Subject: Re: What is the correct shift lever boot...
> How does the carpet fit into the arrangement. When mine is in the
> correct (cone down) configuration, there seems to be too much carpet to
> fit into the groove, so the whole boot just pops up. Does the groove
> just capture the metal of the tunnel and the carpet goes on top? I'm a
> bit confused. The carpet kit in my car does not have a nice serged edge
> around the hole. It is just cut. What is correct?
>
> Thanks
>
> Brian
From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: "Brian N" <brian@beachcitygas.com>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 16:31:20 -0500
Subject: Re: Horn wiring question..related issue
"overlook the obvious and you will savor the taste of your foot in your mouth"
From Rebeltown at aol.com
From: "Brian N" <brian@beachcitygas.com>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 17:12:26 EST
Subject: Wire wheel trueing
Gary Shunk '67 BJ8 #38427 N.J.
From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Brian N" <brian@beachcitygas.com>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 18:47:25 -0500
Subject: Re: ebay ads
Just a bit of Healey Middle East trivia.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Spidell
To: healeylist
Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2004 10:37 PM
Subject: Re: ebay ads
re:
> Saddam's son had a Healey
So that means there's a nice Healey available in Iraq, right?
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
From "Bill Browning" <gbrowning at carolina.rr.com>
From: "Brian N" <brian@beachcitygas.com>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 19:10:26 -0500
Subject: best method to remove aged cracked coating on BJ8 wood dash
thank you for your help,
Bill Browning
Charlotte, N.C.
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Brian N" <brian@beachcitygas.com>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 16:58:24 -0800
Subject: Re: Horn wiring question..related issue
Simply shim the trafficator assembly outwards a bit (towards the driver)
with a bit of scrap plastic - I think I used the bottom of an ice-cream tub
last time, or something similar from the recycle bin. Lighly glue it into
the recess in the hub that the trafficator plate sits in.
This will keep the bakelite from dragging on the steering wheel trim ring,
but still allows the set screws to grab the trafficator's plate without
re-drilling / tapping the set screw holes. It has solved the problem every
time I've tried it.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BT7 tri-carb
BJ8 - currently under restoration - modfied as above for MotoLita wheel /
hub
----- Original Message -----
From: <Healeyguy@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2004 11:13 AM
Subject: Re: Horn wiring question..related issue
Brian
A word of caution on the type of olive used on the stator tube. The
original olive has a split in it allowing the olive to release when the nut
is loosened. An olive obtained from the hardware or auto parts store will
be solid. This type olive will crush if overtightened and jam on the stator
tube making future adjustments or removal very difficult. Can't remember if
the generic compression fitting nut threads are the same as the Healey part.
One other thing on fitting the Motolita wheel with the original control head
(trafficator), the set screw holes in the hub may or may not be in the
correct location, fore and aft, to hold the cancelling ring but not drag the
bakelite against the steering hub. In many cases the screw holes are to deep
in the hub and must be redrilled about 1/8 inch futher out.
Aloha
Perry
From Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
From: "Brian N" <brian@beachcitygas.com>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 21:06:17 -0500
Subject: Manifold Drain
I am seeking to reproduce the correct routing of the copper front manifold
drain on my BJ8.The PO just had an inch of the original hanging down.
I have plenty of tubing and have soldered the nipple on it and also have
the captive nut. What I don't have is a photo of the correct routing of
this tube, how long it should be or where the bends are. The Service Parts
List just shows a straght tube and also that one is required for the rear
part of the manifold. The ferrules and clips seem to be non-existent these
days.
Any help appreciated.....
Scot
'66 BJ8
From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
From: "Brian N" <brian@beachcitygas.com>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 22:19:12 EST
Subject: Re: Horn wiring question..related issue
(you could measure your male thread protrusion (that should be good for a
joke!), and count the threads in 1/4" of length and calculate the thread to see
if it's close to 9/16-24)
Best of luck.
John
Oostburg, WI
Home of:
1960 Austin Healey 3000
1960 Austin Mini 850 (with 1380, lowered, etc)
1957 BMW Isetta 300
1969 Austin America
1980 Triumph TR7
1939 Dodge business coupe (patiently awaiting rebirth)
2003 Mini Cooper S (get one of these!)
From "Lee and Marti" <leemar at bendcable.com>
From: "Brian N" <brian@beachcitygas.com>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 19:29:19 -0800
Subject: best method to remove aged cracked coating
Be careful not to heat it too hot so you'll discolor the wood, and use a 1
inch or wider paint/spackle/drywall knife to loosen up the coating. Be
careful not to score the wood, since it is veeeeerrrryyy thin!. You'll find
that it comes off very easy, and just a light sanding with 320 or finer paper
is all you'll need to get it prepared for the Envirotex. Good luck and keep
us posted on your results. Lee
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Brian N" <brian@beachcitygas.com>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 22:55:17 -0500
Subject: Re: Horn wiring question..related issue
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: <MOWOGMAN@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2004 10:19 PM
Subject: Re: Horn wiring question..related issue
> In a message dated 1/14/2004 1:16:02 PM Central Standard Time,
> Healeyguy@aol.com writes:
> A word of caution on the type of olive used on the stator tube. The
original
> olive has a split in it allowing the olive to release when the nut is
> loosened. An olive obtained from the hardware or auto parts store will be
solid.
> This type olive will crush if overtightened and jam on the stator tube
making
> future adjustments or removal very difficult. Can't remember if the
generic
From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
From: "Brian N" <brian@beachcitygas.com>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 20:25:20 -0800
Subject: Re: ebay ads
At 07:37 PM 1/13/04 -0800, Bob Spidell wrote:
>re:
>
> > Saddam's son had a Healey
>
>So that means there's a nice Healey available in Iraq, right?
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Brian N" <brian@beachcitygas.com>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 20:32:04 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: best method to remove aged cracked coating on BJ8 wood dash
Standard off the shelf paint/varnish removers will
work just fine here. The original varnish used on
these things will come right off after applying the
remover. It will be very easy. Go to Home Depot. A
wood bleach might be a nice thing to add to the naked
burl before applying the envirotex... wood bleach will
help bring out the colors in the burl.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- Bill Browning <gbrowning@carolina.rr.com> wrote:
> recently the list discussed the product "Envirotex"
> to coat the wood dash
> after removing the old "vanish"....my question is ,
> what is the best way to
> remove the cracking varnish (coating) other than
> chipping it off with
> various dental tools....
>
> thank you for your help,
> Bill Browning
> Charlotte, N.C.
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Brian N" <brian@beachcitygas.com>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 20:58:17 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Iraq Healey
Is this the same healey that Uday supposedly had? Or
did the Kuwaiti owner get his car back?
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- BJ8Healeys <sbyers@ec.rr.com> wrote:
> BJ8 Healey HBJ8L/31213 spent most of the Gulf War
> locked up in a warehouse in
> Kuwait while its owner was a prisoner of the Iraqis.
>
> Just a bit of Healey Middle East trivia.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC USA
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Bob Spidell
> To: healeylist
> Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2004 10:37 PM
> Subject: Re: ebay ads
>
>
> re:
>
> > Saddam's son had a Healey
>
> So that means there's a nice Healey available in
> Iraq, right?
>
>
> bs
> ********************************************
> Bob Spidell San Jose, CA
> bspidell@pacbell.net
> '67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56
> Austin-Healey 100M
From Slvrbulit2 at aol.com
From: "Brian N" <brian@beachcitygas.com>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 05:17:35 EST
Subject: 5 gallon bucket
Being a comtractor I can tell you that when I empty a keg of nails into a 5
gallon bucket, the last thing I want is standing water in it to rust the nails.
Seth
From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Brian N" <brian@beachcitygas.com>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 06:58:36 -0500
Subject: Re: Iraq Healey
The owner of the car was a German who happened to be in Kuwait when the
invasion took place. He was arrested by the Iraqis and held for some time.
Amazingly, he did find later that his car was unharmed and still locked up in
its garage. He took it back to Germany and later sold it to an Austrian and I
have lost track of it now.
Didn't know Uday was a Healey man.....
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Blue One Hundred
To: BJ8Healeys ; healeylist
Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2004 11:58 PM
Subject: Iraq Healey
Steve -
Is this the same healey that Uday supposedly had? Or
did the Kuwaiti owner get his car back?
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- BJ8Healeys <sbyers@ec.rr.com> wrote:
> BJ8 Healey HBJ8L/31213 spent most of the Gulf War
> locked up in a warehouse in
> Kuwait while its owner was a prisoner of the Iraqis.
>
> Just a bit of Healey Middle East trivia.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC USA
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Bob Spidell
> To: healeylist
> Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2004 10:37 PM
> Subject: Re: ebay ads
>
>
> re:
>
> > Saddam's son had a Healey
>
> So that means there's a nice Healey available in
> Iraq, right?
>
>
> bs
> ********************************************
> Bob Spidell San Jose, CA
> bspidell@pacbell.net
> '67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56
> Austin-Healey 100M
From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Brian N" <brian@beachcitygas.com>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 08:00:23 -0500
Subject: RE: Horn wiring question..related issue
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Mark and kathy LaPierre
Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2004 10:55 PM
To: MOWOGMAN@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Horn wiring question..related issue
I'm sure this has been asked before but I missed it. Any problem with
carefully slicing a generic compression olive so it can be removed
later?
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: <MOWOGMAN@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2004 10:19 PM
Subject: Re: Horn wiring question..related issue
> In a message dated 1/14/2004 1:16:02 PM Central Standard Time,
> Healeyguy@aol.com writes:
> A word of caution on the type of olive used on the stator tube. The
original
> olive has a split in it allowing the olive to release when the nut is
> loosened. An olive obtained from the hardware or auto parts store
will be
solid.
> This type olive will crush if overtightened and jam on the stator tube
making
> future adjustments or removal very difficult. Can't remember if the
generic
From "Vink, Graham" <vinkg at fleishman.com>
From: "Brian N" <brian@beachcitygas.com>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 07:10:11 -0600
Subject: 5 gallon bucket
Since he charged the equivalent of $250 an hour, I'm assuming it was a
LEATHER seat, possibly with built in heat and a/c ...
I'm also happy to report that it was an electrical problem that any
British car owner should have been able to diagnose in about 30 seconds
... And I will, the next time!
-Graham
From Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
From: "Brian N" <brian@beachcitygas.com>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 05:17:47 -0800
Subject: Re: ebay ads
BJ8Healeys wrote:
>BJ8 Healey HBJ8L/31213 spent most of the Gulf War locked up in a warehouse in
>Kuwait while its owner was a prisoner of the Iraqis.
>
>Just a bit of Healey Middle East trivia.
>
>Steve Byers
>HBJ8L/36666
>BJ8 Registry
>Havelock, NC USA
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
> From: Bob Spidell
> To: healeylist
> Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2004 10:37 PM
> Subject: Re: ebay ads
>
>
> re:
>
> > Saddam's son had a Healey
>
> So that means there's a nice Healey available in Iraq, right?
>
>
> bs
> ********************************************
> Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
> '67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
> ********************************************
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: "Brian N" <brian@beachcitygas.com>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 06:36:59 -0800
Subject: Re: Horn wiring question..related issue
I think I will try this method. If I run into any trouble, I will
report back.
Brian N
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: "Brian N" <brian@beachcitygas.com>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 06:41:52 -0800
Subject: Re: Horn wiring question..related issue
Well, the box seemed dry from what I could tell from the top. But the
stator hole has a plug in it. Amazing what some people do to these cars!
I put about a half pint of oil in the box, which did not top it up. But
also it does not leak out, either.
As part of the project, the end is coming off so I can adjust the float
with the shims per the book and the advice form folks on this list.
When done, I'll report back what I found and how it all went.
Brian.
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: "Brian N" <brian@beachcitygas.com>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 06:45:10 -0800
Subject: Re: 5 gallon bucket
I always consider it tuition, and look over his shoulder. Usually the
cost comes back to me next time around. But I would skip the bucket for
myself.
Brian N
From "Terry Disz" <tdisz at starband.net>
From: "Brian N" <brian@beachcitygas.com>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 09:42:58 -0600
Subject: Healey on TV
Anyone else see this ad? What was the car?
Terry
HBT7L/18971
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: "Brian N" <brian@beachcitygas.com>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 10:48:19 -0500
Subject: Re: Horn wiring question..related issue
You mean the hole in the box for the tube had a plug in it or the tube had a
plug in it? Where was the stator tube? The tube itself needs no plug and
the wiring must go through it. I am mixed up.
Keith Pennell
> Well, the box seemed dry from what I could tell from the top. But the
> stator hole has a plug in it. Amazing what some people do to these cars!
>
> Brian.
From "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyingb at surewest.net>
From: "Brian N" <brian@beachcitygas.com>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 08:00:21 -0800
Subject: stator olive
I am going to try to make an olive with a shoulder on my lathe and see if that
will work. A good winter job.
Jerry
From "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl>
From: "Brian N" <brian@beachcitygas.com>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 17:30:42 +0100
Subject: Olives
From "Rick" <webmasterrick at comcast.net>
From: "Brian N" <brian@beachcitygas.com>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 10:45:47 -0600
Subject: Re: stator olive
"
<<I am going to try to make an olive with a shoulder on my lathe and see if
that
will work. >>
You have THE cheapest labor rate in the world, Jerry!!!
Thing only RETAILS for $1.95!!!!!!!
$ .50 to mail.
Geesh.
Ed
"
Rick
(and I agree -:) Will you come work for me??)
From CORKY <mambo532 at yahoo.com>
From: "Brian N" <brian@beachcitygas.com>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 08:51:33 -0800 (PST)
Subject: 1960 Austin Healey For Sale
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Hotjobs: Enter the "Signing Bonus" Sweepstakes
From Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
From: "Brian N" <brian@beachcitygas.com>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 13:00:47 -0500
Subject: Re: Manifold Drain
I made my own out of scrap steel and used black silicone caulk in
place of cast grommets to hold in place. It has worked fine for
several years and maybe 8000 miles. It's easy to replace the
'grommet', too.<
Roland,
Thanks for the info. I took a couple of wiring clips and opened them up,
pounded them flat and re-drilled the holes. These look just like the
originals and are of similar size. Now to get the 1/4" grommets.
Do you happen to know the oil pan bolt size(will be slightly longer than
the others) and or the nut size that holds that clip in place?
Scot
'66 BJ8
From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Brian N" <brian@beachcitygas.com>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 13:48:32 -0500
Subject: rubber grommets
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
Amateur Radio AI2Q
http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
.-.-.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Scot Paulson
Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2004 1:01 PM
To: Roland Wilhelmy; healey list
Subject: Re: Manifold Drain
Message text written by Roland Wilhelmy
>n our BJ7, the tubes dropped down below the edge of the sump/block
interface. Originally they were held there by little brackets with
littler rubber grommets. The brackets were flat pieces of steel maybe
an inch long by 1/2 inch wide with a hole in either end. One hole fit
around a longer sump retaining screw and nut (guess that makes it a
bolt, not a screw), and the other held the tubing in the grommet.
I made my own out of scrap steel and used black silicone caulk in
place of cast grommets to hold in place. It has worked fine for
several years and maybe 8000 miles. It's easy to replace the
'grommet', too.<
Roland,
Thanks for the info. I took a couple of wiring clips and opened them up,
pounded them flat and re-drilled the holes. These look just like the
originals and are of similar size. Now to get the 1/4" grommets.
Do you happen to know the oil pan bolt size(will be slightly longer than
the others) and or the nut size that holds that clip in place?
Scot
'66 BJ8
From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: Marshall, Zac [mailto:zac.marshall@cgey.com]
To: jensen-cars@british-steel.org
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 12:35:31 -0800
Subject: OT: Looks like Haynes have branched out!
http://www.haynes.co.uk/news.asp
=======================================================
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info at: <http://www.british-steel.org/faq/jensen-cars.html>.
From "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyingb at surewest.net>
From: Marshall, Zac [mailto:zac.marshall@cgey.com]
To: jensen-cars@british-steel.org
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 12:43:43 -0800
Subject: Re: stator olive
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: Marshall, Zac [mailto:zac.marshall@cgey.com]
To: jensen-cars@british-steel.org
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 14:00:22 -0800
Subject: Re: Horn wiring question..related issue
The stator tube is on my workbench. The steering box in the car has a
plastic plug in it!
Brian
From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: Marshall, Zac [mailto:zac.marshall@cgey.com]
To: jensen-cars@british-steel.org
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 17:17:17 -0500
Subject: Re: Looks like Haynes have branched out!
I am, of course, speaking of the cars on the covers not the decoration.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: "'Jerry'" <grumpyingb@surewest.net>; "'Ed werkes'" <edward.volk@gsa.gov>
Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2004 3:35 PM
Subject: FW: Looks like Haynes have branched out!
| -----Original Message-----
| From: Marshall, Zac [mailto:zac.marshall@cgey.com]
| Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2004 10:37 AM
| To: jensen-cars@british-steel.org
| Subject: OT: Looks like Haynes have branched out!
|
|
| http://www.haynes.co.uk/news.asp
|
|
|
From "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyingb at surewest.net>
From: Marshall, Zac [mailto:zac.marshall@cgey.com]
To: jensen-cars@british-steel.org
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 15:11:08 -0800
Subject: Re: stator olive
From "Bob, Kim, Rob, Bandit and Pepper" <thewalkers at qwest.net>
From: Marshall, Zac [mailto:zac.marshall@cgey.com]
To: jensen-cars@british-steel.org
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 19:53:10 -0700
Subject: Re: 5 gallon bucket
They also sell here in Arizona at home depot those bucket tool caddies -
make a bucket your tool box blah blah blah, I never bought one.
I have used old 5 gallon buckets (plastic from bulk laundry soap or bulk
paint) for years to store stuff, wash the car, stand on to paint higher
spots, etc. Easier than a ladder for not so high stuff, and a great
seat that is easy to tote around and who cares if it gets messed up. I
have learned how to kick it along without tipping it over more often
than not.
I can now take a digital picture (my ma got us one for christmas) if you
all want to see the Healey set up and the bucket seat.
Bob Walker
From Franck Vigneron <vigneronf at yahoo.com>
From: Marshall, Zac [mailto:zac.marshall@cgey.com]
To: jensen-cars@british-steel.org
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 20:51:58 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Where to bolt Seat Belts for Rear Passengers
Thank you
Franck
1960 BT7 Huntington Beach CA
__________________________________
Yahoo! Hotjobs: Enter the "Signing Bonus" Sweepstakes
http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/signingbonus
From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: Marshall, Zac [mailto:zac.marshall@cgey.com]
To: jensen-cars@british-steel.org
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 03:24:06 -0500
Subject: finned valve covers 100
If anyone would like a photocopy of this, I'd be glad to send it to those who
want it, by mail or scan and email.
Would that we could buy for these prices today!
allen miller BN2/M
From "Haber, David J." <David.Haber at vtmednet.org>
From: Marshall, Zac [mailto:zac.marshall@cgey.com]
To: jensen-cars@british-steel.org
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 08:54:15 -0500
Subject: Wire wheels
Confidentiality Notice:
This message, and any attachments, may contain information that is
confidential, privileged, and/or protected from disclosure under state and
federal laws that deal with the privacy and security of medical information. If
you received this message in error or through inappropriate means, please reply
to this message to notify the Sender that the message was received by you in
error, and then permanently delete this message from all storage media, without
forwarding or retaining a copy.
From "Vink, Graham" <vinkg at fleishman.com>
From: Marshall, Zac [mailto:zac.marshall@cgey.com]
To: jensen-cars@british-steel.org
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 08:44:18 -0600
Subject: Wire wheels - broader question
This seems to be a dying art.
So I don't think it's worth having my 40-year-old BJ7 wheels trued,
especially since they're the 48-spoke.
If I buy new wheels, do they really need truieing? Victoria Brit, which
sells Dunlop from India, says they do. The Roadster Factory (reputable
Triumph supplier) sells Dayton wires, and says they usually don't.
Thoughts?
Thanks.
Graham
From "Peter Hunt" <peter at hunt.sol.co.uk>
From: Marshall, Zac [mailto:zac.marshall@cgey.com]
To: jensen-cars@british-steel.org
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 14:48:16 -0000
Subject: Fridays Joke from Scotland.
Suddenly, emerging from the surf comes a drop-dead gorgeous
blonde woman wearing a wetsuit and scuba gear. She approaches the stunned
man and says to him, "Tell me how long has it been since you've had
cigarette?"
"Ten years," replies the Scot.
With that, she reaches over and unzips a waterproof pocket on her
left sleeve and pulls out a pack of fresh cigarettes. He takes one,
lights it, takes a long drag and says, "Achh, that is splendid!" "And how
long has it been since you've had a sip of good malt scotch?" she
purrs.
Trembling, the castaway replies, "Ten years."
She reaches over, unzips her right sleeve, pulls out a flask and
hands it to him. He opens the flask, takes a long swig and says, "Oh by
God, it's absolutely fantastic!"
At this point she starts slowly unzipping the long zipper that runs
down the front of her wet suit. She looks at the man and asks
huskily,
"And how long has it been since you've played around?
With tears in his eyes, the big Scot falls to his knees and sobs,
"Oh, sweet Jesus! Don't tell me you've got golf clubs in there!"
From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
From: Marshall, Zac [mailto:zac.marshall@cgey.com]
To: jensen-cars@british-steel.org
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 15:45:41 -0500
Subject: About Wire wheels
From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
From: Marshall, Zac [mailto:zac.marshall@cgey.com]
To: jensen-cars@british-steel.org
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 15:46:43 -0500
Subject: About Wire wheels
From "matt wilson" <mwilson18 at cox.net>
From: Marshall, Zac [mailto:zac.marshall@cgey.com]
To: jensen-cars@british-steel.org
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 07:55:19 -0800
Subject: Re: Wire wheels - broader question
----- Original Message -----
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 16, 2004 6:44 AM
Subject: Wire wheels - broader question
> I've asked around the northern Virginia/Washington, D.C., area and there
> doesn't appear to be anybody locally who works with wire wheels, and the
> shipping costs to get them to a shop that does are horrendous. So is the
> cost of trueing, for that matter.
>
> This seems to be a dying art.
>
> So I don't think it's worth having my 40-year-old BJ7 wheels trued,
> especially since they're the 48-spoke.
>
> If I buy new wheels, do they really need truieing? Victoria Brit, which
> sells Dunlop from India, says they do. The Roadster Factory (reputable
> Triumph supplier) sells Dayton wires, and says they usually don't.
>
> Thoughts?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Graham
From "Bob Yule" <autofarm at cyg.net>
From: "Stephen Hutchings" <hutching@the-wire.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 11:22:54 -0500
Subject: About Wire wheels
> I'd like to hear more about whether the new painted wheels from India
> need truing.
> My only real disappointment with them is I find the paint awfully
> hard and brittle. After a truing job, I imagine they'd have to be
> painted again...an awful lot of trouble for something you bought new!
> Stephen, BJ8
From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
From: "Stephen Hutchings" <hutching@the-wire.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 16:54:50 -0500
Subject: Re:Re: About Wire wheels
From "Jim MacDonald" <clew65 at hotmail.com>
From: "Stephen Hutchings" <hutching@the-wire.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 17:04:50 +0000
Subject: wire wheels
_________________________________________________________________
Find high-speed net deals comparison-shop your local providers here.
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: "Stephen Hutchings" <hutching@the-wire.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 09:02:02 -0800
Subject: Re: About Wire wheels
I purchased a set of 60 spoke painted Dunlops wheels from Moss in June
of '02. Had the tires mounted and balanced at Valley Wire Wheel Service
in Van Nuys, CA. All of the wheels needed minor tweaking ... perhaps 1
to 3 minutes work by Mike on each wheel. No paint chips. The cost for 5
wheels mounted and balanced was $75.00 They didn't have any tire
shaving equipment at Valley Wire Wheel although he was looking for a
machine. I heard there is a tire store in Pasadena, CA that shaves tires
but I didn't need to go that far as the scuttle shake was gone. (new
hubs and the front end had been rebuilt too).
Valley Wire Wheel Service
Mike Rizeman
14731 Lull St.
Van Nuys, CA
818 785 7237
Cheers,
John
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "Stephen Hutchings" <hutching@the-wire.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 12:17:14 -0500
Subject: Re: About Wire wheels
I have bought several sets of Dayton wheels over the past 30 or so years
(seven Healeys). I have never had them trued. My 60 spoker chromes have
over 20,000 miles on them since 1990, and all I ever had to do was replace a
couple of spokes after a Honda with a trailer hitch backed into the wheel at
a gas station. I am running 72 spoke Daytons on the vintage racer, and
after three intense seasons they still turn true, no loose spokes.
IMHO, if the manufacturer has a good manufacturing process and good quality
control, then there should be no need to re-true the wheels for many, many
miles.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Yule" <autofarm@cyg.net>
To: "HEALEY LIST" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Stephen Hutchings"
<hutching@the-wire.com>
Sent: Friday, January 16, 2004 11:22 AM
Subject: Re: About Wire wheels
> There seems to be an awfull lot of "mystery" ciculating about wire
> wheels. My own experience has been to pull the wheels from the box, mount
> the tires, drive a couple of hundred miles, balance if necessary and drive
> on. This has worked well for both Dunlop and Dayton chrome or painted
> wheels. The wheels on my car have covered about 80,000 miles without
being
> touched, except to mount new tires.
> Cheers......Bob @ Autofarm
> Check our web site www.autofarm.net
they'd have to be
> > painted again...an awful lot of trouble for something you bought new!
> > Stephen, BJ8
From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: "Stephen Hutchings" <hutching@the-wire.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 12:28:40 EST
Subject: Re: Looks like Haynes have branched out! related nonsense
From Dancoqa at aol.com
From: "Stephen Hutchings" <hutching@the-wire.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 12:33:48 EST
Subject: Misc. BJ8 Items
From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Stephen Hutchings" <hutching@the-wire.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 09:41:21 -0800 (PST)
Subject: seat belt color
__________________________________
Yahoo! Hotjobs: Enter the "Signing Bonus" Sweepstakes
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From GSFuqua1 at aol.com
From: "Stephen Hutchings" <hutching@the-wire.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 13:17:38 EST
Subject: Re: Wire wheels - broader question
No financial interests of course. Just a very satisfied customer with a
little experience on several sides of the wheel & tire issue.
Gary Fuqua
Branson, Missouri
From "Len and/or Marge" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: "Stephen Hutchings" <hutching@the-wire.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 10:37:45 -0800
Subject: About Wire Wheels (and tires)
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA
1967 3000 MKIII HBJ8L39031
From Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
From: "Stephen Hutchings" <hutching@the-wire.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 10:43:11 -0800
Subject: Wire Wheel trueing / mounting / balancing / rebuilding
Here was the original message I received from another Healeyophile
Contact John Blake at 831-465-0617 in Santa Cruz.
He worked at BritishWire Wheel for years and now does
stuff out of his garage. More than willing to take the time
to do the job right.
No financial interest etc etc disclaimer - just a satisfied customer
Tracy 1960 BT7 / 3213
From Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
From: "Stephen Hutchings" <hutching@the-wire.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 10:55:04 -0800
Subject: Re: Wire Wheel trueing / mounting / balancing / rebuilding
Tracy Drummond wrote:
> When I bought 4 new painted Dunlops from Moss I wanted to have em done
> right. I was pointed to a fella in Santa Cruz CA
> to have him do this. The new rims were all true except one which he
> retrued before mounting my new Michelin ZXs from Coker Tires.
> He rebuild rims from all over the country but stated that unless it
> was a really rare or expensive rim it was just simply much cheaper
> to buy new. He recommended checking true on new rims and was very
> careful to mount the logo adjacent the valve stem etc. He did
> the work in his garage while we chatted. Great fella. By the way
> this eliminated scuttle shake from my car altogether. We chose the
> best of the five original 48 spokers to keep as a spare. Luckily
> Santa Cruz is just over the hill from me.
>
> Here was the original message I received from another Healeyophile
>
> Contact John Blake at 831-465-0617 in Santa Cruz.
> He worked at BritishWire Wheel for years and now does
> stuff out of his garage. More than willing to take the time
> to do the job right.
>
>
> No financial interest etc etc disclaimer - just a satisfied customer
>
> Tracy 1960 BT7 / 3213
From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
From: "Stephen Hutchings" <hutching@the-wire.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 19:39:48 -0500
Subject: RE: Re: Wire wheels - broader question
I'd been given to understand that there was a period of time when the
Indian wheels were bad news, but I'd also heard that their quality
had improved. Mine seem fine other than the paint complaint.
Any other recent purchasers have comments? We've heard from Bob Yule
, who, because of the nature of his work has a statistically more
relevant experience than an individual buyer.What do the other
restorers say?
Stephen, BJ8
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Stephen Hutchings" <hutching@the-wire.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 12:43:05 -0700
Subject: Re: Wire wheels - broader question - Hendrix
Dave Russell
BN2
GSFuqua1@aol.com wrote:
> Matt, I'm VERY surprised at the cost figure you ran into on the shipping. I
> have bought and sold sets of wheels and found the $20.00 per wheel to be
> pretty close to accurate. I bought a set of new Chrome Wires & Dunlop's from
>Alan
> @ Hendrix Wire Wheels and have been extremely pleased with them. Also I was
> told by Alan that if I bought the entire set from him then the return
>shipping
> for the extra truing was included in the price. His price is admittedly
> higher than others BUT in my humble opinion if you want wire wheels and you
>don't
> want the shakes you better buy from him. They do a fantastic job of
>balancing
> the entire unit and will even tell you which wheel and tire to put where on
> the car.
> Gary Fuqua
> Branson, Missouri
From Skip Besaw <besaw55 at yahoo.com>
From: "Stephen Hutchings" <hutching@the-wire.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 11:50:03 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Healey related events
From David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Stephen Hutchings" <hutching@the-wire.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 12:15:06 -0800
Subject: Re: seat belt color
> Speaking of basic lap belts,
> What's the most popular/appropriate/common seat belt
> color to use in a blue and white car with blue
> interior and white seat piping? I'm deciding between
> blue and black by the way.
> Thanks for any opinions,
> Joe Mulqueen
> '60 BT7 in work
Joe I would strongly NOT recomend using strictly a lap belt. The danger of
using a lap belt is in the case of an accident you will slip under the belt
and when your feet bottom on the foot box you will go face first into the
dash or steering wheel. We have a retractable shoulder belt that we have
been supplying for the last 10 years that works great. They also come in
various colors that work well in the Healey. They come in black, red, grey,
bright blue.
--
David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca
209-948-8767 Fax209-948-1030
http://www.britishcarspecialists.com
From David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Stephen Hutchings" <hutching@the-wire.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 12:48:23 -0800
Subject: Re: Healey related events
> In Cupertino CA for the weekend from Boston (thank God -6 degrees at home)
> Anything Healey related going on from San Francisco to San Jose?
>
> Skip 67 BJ8
The GGAHC has nothing on the schedule this weekend. But if you are the area
I would strongly recommend getting over to the Blackhawk auto museum. This
is a huge place that can easily take most of a day to appreciate all the
cars. They are of HWY 680 north of Dublin, there are signs on the HWY for
the place.
--
David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca
209-948-8767 Fax209-948-1030
http://www.britishcarspecialists.com
From Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
From: "Stephen Hutchings" <hutching@the-wire.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 13:06:08 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Big Healey vs TR6
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Hotjobs: Enter the "Signing Bonus" Sweepstakes
From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Stephen Hutchings" <hutching@the-wire.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 13:10:26 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: seat belt color
--- David Nock <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> on 1/16/04 9:41 AM, joe mulqueen at
> joemulqueen@yahoo.com wrote:
>
> > Speaking of basic lap belts,
> > What's the most popular/appropriate/common seat
> belt
> > color to use in a blue and white car with blue
> > interior and white seat piping? I'm deciding
> between
> > blue and black by the way.
> > Thanks for any opinions,
> > Joe Mulqueen
> > '60 BT7 in work
>
> Joe I would strongly NOT recomend using strictly a
> lap belt. The danger of
> using a lap belt is in the case of an accident you
> will slip under the belt
> and when your feet bottom on the foot box you will
> go face first into the
> dash or steering wheel. We have a retractable
> shoulder belt that we have
> been supplying for the last 10 years that works
> great. They also come in
> various colors that work well in the Healey. They
> come in black, red, grey,
> bright blue.
> --
> David Nock
> British Car Specialists
> Stockton Ca
> 209-948-8767 Fax209-948-1030
> http://www.britishcarspecialists.com
>
__________________________________
Yahoo! Hotjobs: Enter the "Signing Bonus" Sweepstakes
http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/signingbonus
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: "Stephen Hutchings" <hutching@the-wire.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 16:29:31 -0500
Subject: Re: stator olive
Sometimes the joy is not in the desitination but in the journey. Go for it
Jerry!
Keith Pennell
From "Vink, Graham" <vinkg at fleishman.com>
From: "Stephen Hutchings" <hutching@the-wire.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 15:55:13 -0600
Subject: Re: Big Healey vs TR6: Triumph wins, no contest!
All of the following is IMHO; others may disagree.
In size and weight, the TR6 is very similar to the big Healey.
The Triumph is slightly narrower, but has more leg room and more
comfortable/supportive seats.
Engines are similar; TR6 had twin Zenith Stromberg carburetors. Pretty
reliable, some unique quirks (thrust washers on the crankshaft liked to
wear and fall out, which was bad!)
I thought the TR6 was quicker than the Healey.
TR6 handles MUCH better than the big Healey, and I drove mine happily at
80-plus on narrow two lane roads in Eastern Washington. It has much
bigger wheels and tires and an independent rear suspension, which was
much criticized for lack of travel but is still better than the Healey
live axle and leaf springs. Front shocks are the modern tube style, and
rear lever shocks can easily be converted to tube shocks; Konis all
round are quite common.
TR has better heating and air flow than the Healey; doesn't have the
"toast the driver" problem.
TR6 is safer in a crash. Has safety steering column with rubber bushing
that will shear off, so driver isn't speared through the chest like he
will be in the Healey; shoulder belts were standard, and you can easily
mount a roll bar that still lets you close the soft top.
TR6 was available with a very attractive factory steel top, plus many
aftermarket tops available.
Ground clearance better. You get to keep your exhaust system longer.
Engine runs much cooler than Healey; overheating almost never a problem.
Parts supply, as with Healey, is excellent. Many parts cheaper than for
Healey (but not by much!) More used parts available.
No expensive, breakable trafficator on Triumph - usual turn signals.
You can get almost all authentic new sheet metal, much of it
manufactured on original tooling by British Heritage.
Triumph has a traditional separate frame, more rust-resistant than
Healey unit body. Otherwise, rusting problems are similar. Scuttle shake
also similar.
Triumph has a real trunk, and the battery is in the engine compartment,
where God intended it.
Triumph electrical system is SLIGHTLY superior to the Healeys.
You can get Triumphs with the Laycock overdrive, though they're somewhat
harder to find.
Stock steel wheels were strong and attractive; but you can also easily
fit wires or Panasports. Also easier to fit wider tires than Healey
With the TR, you know you're driving a better car than any MG, and you
can leave them in the dust, or watch their pitiful little engines
overheat at 65 mph. (When I lived in Eastern Washington, the Triumph
club didn't invite the MG club on drives too often because we had to go
SO SLOWLY.)
With the TR, you can look through the windshield, instead of over it.
With the rear view mirror, you can actually see behind the car.
TR has cool wood dash on ALL models.
Also, I think the TR is good looking in a different way - clean lines,
more "masculine" than the big Healey. The square kammback with the flat
black valance is unique.
Reliability similar, though Triumph engine-driven fuel pump is a plus.
-Graham
-----Original Message-----
From: Jorge Garcia [mailto:fortee9er@yahoo.com]
Sent: Friday, January 16, 2004 4:06 PM
To: Austin Healey
Subject: Big Healey vs TR6
I have noticed over the last few months several TR6 for sale in my part
of the world - Houston, TX - for under $6k with some in the $2k area. I
have never driven a Triumph and was wondering how the TR6 compares to
the big Healeys in terms of handling, acceleration, stopping,
reliability, rust...etc. If any of you have owned a TR6 and obviously a
big Healey, why else would you be in this list, please send me your
comments. Thanks Jorge '65 BJ8
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: "Stephen Hutchings" <hutching@the-wire.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 17:02:34 -0500
Subject: Re: Wire wheels - broader question
Keith Pennell
> So I don't think it's worth having my 40-year-old BJ7 wheels trued,
> especially since they're the 48-spoke.
>
> Graham
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Stephen Hutchings" <hutching@the-wire.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 16:00:52 -0700
Subject: Re: Big Healey vs TR6: Triumph wins, no contest!
It's obvious. You should trade your Healey for a TR6 as soon as possible.
Dave Russell
BN2
Vink, Graham wrote:
> An excellent topic for discussion! I think the TR6 is vastly underrated.
> I've owned two TR6s (none currently, alas) and one current big Healey
> (1963 BJ7), which I've had for almost 10 years.
>
> All of the following is IMHO; others may disagree.
>
> In size and weight, the TR6 is very similar to the big Healey.
>
> The Triumph is slightly narrower, but has more leg room and more
> comfortable/supportive seats.
>
> Engines are similar; TR6 had twin Zenith Stromberg carburetors. Pretty
> reliable, some unique quirks (thrust washers on the crankshaft liked to
> wear and fall out, which was bad!)
>
> I thought the TR6 was quicker than the Healey.
>
> TR6 handles MUCH better than the big Healey, and I drove mine happily at
> 80-plus on narrow two lane roads in Eastern Washington. It has much
> bigger wheels and tires and an independent rear suspension, which was
> much criticized for lack of travel but is still better than the Healey
> live axle and leaf springs. Front shocks are the modern tube style, and
> rear lever shocks can easily be converted to tube shocks; Konis all
> round are quite common.
>
> TR has better heating and air flow than the Healey; doesn't have the
> "toast the driver" problem.
>
> TR6 is safer in a crash. Has safety steering column with rubber bushing
> that will shear off, so driver isn't speared through the chest like he
> will be in the Healey; shoulder belts were standard, and you can easily
> mount a roll bar that still lets you close the soft top.
>
> TR6 was available with a very attractive factory steel top, plus many
> aftermarket tops available.
>
> Ground clearance better. You get to keep your exhaust system longer.
>
> Engine runs much cooler than Healey; overheating almost never a problem.
>
> Parts supply, as with Healey, is excellent. Many parts cheaper than for
> Healey (but not by much!) More used parts available.
>
> No expensive, breakable trafficator on Triumph - usual turn signals.
>
> You can get almost all authentic new sheet metal, much of it
> manufactured on original tooling by British Heritage.
>
> Triumph has a traditional separate frame, more rust-resistant than
> Healey unit body. Otherwise, rusting problems are similar. Scuttle shake
> also similar.
>
> Triumph has a real trunk, and the battery is in the engine compartment,
> where God intended it.
>
> Triumph electrical system is SLIGHTLY superior to the Healeys.
>
> You can get Triumphs with the Laycock overdrive, though they're somewhat
> harder to find.
>
> Stock steel wheels were strong and attractive; but you can also easily
> fit wires or Panasports. Also easier to fit wider tires than Healey
>
> With the TR, you know you're driving a better car than any MG, and you
> can leave them in the dust, or watch their pitiful little engines
> overheat at 65 mph. (When I lived in Eastern Washington, the Triumph
> club didn't invite the MG club on drives too often because we had to go
> SO SLOWLY.)
>
> With the TR, you can look through the windshield, instead of over it.
> With the rear view mirror, you can actually see behind the car.
>
> TR has cool wood dash on ALL models.
>
> Also, I think the TR is good looking in a different way - clean lines,
> more "masculine" than the big Healey. The square kammback with the flat
> black valance is unique.
>
> Reliability similar, though Triumph engine-driven fuel pump is a plus.
>
> -Graham
From "John Soderling" <jsoderling at astound.net>
From: "Stephen Hutchings" <hutching@the-wire.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 15:11:54 -0800
Subject: Spin-on Oil Filter Adaptor
I'm taking care of a 1958 BN4 for a friend who is the military service in
Afghanistan. The car has moderately low hot (190 degrees) oil pressure of
around 15 psi at idle and 40 psi at 3000 RPM. It has the old style Tecalemit
oil filter.
Will converting to a spin-on type filter result in increased oil pressure?
How much? Would like to here results from anyone or any shop that has done
the conversion. Want to get his car ready for him when he gets back in July.
Vrooom vrooom,
John
100-6 Erika the Red
From Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
From: "Stephen Hutchings" <hutching@the-wire.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 15:31:38 -0800
Subject: Re: Spin-on Oil Filter Adaptor
Have you checked the rocker arm assembly? I had mine rebuilt and it
really made a difference in oil pressure.
The spin on adapter did not help except to make it easier to change the
thing and the confidence of using K&N filters.
Tracy
John Soderling wrote:
>HI List,
>
>I'm taking care of a 1958 BN4 for a friend who is the military service in
>Afghanistan. The car has moderately low hot (190 degrees) oil pressure of
>around 15 psi at idle and 40 psi at 3000 RPM. It has the old style Tecalemit
>oil filter.
>
>Will converting to a spin-on type filter result in increased oil pressure?
>How much? Would like to here results from anyone or any shop that has done
>the conversion. Want to get his car ready for him when he gets back in July.
>
>Vrooom vrooom,
>John
>100-6 Erika the Red
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Stephen Hutchings" <hutching@the-wire.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 18:46:03 -0500
Subject: Re: Re: Wire wheels - broader question
Gary's comment re the India made Dunlops is interesting.
It was a fact back in the early 1980's that the India made wheels were poor.
Dunlop went there and sorted their quality control problem with the threat
of pulling the Dunlop name if things weren't rectified.
Since then the India made wheels have NOT been a problem, though old stocks
of the poor ones occasionally show up.
I have purchared many sets (guess maybe a dozen or more sets) of these India
made Dunlop wheels over the years, about half of them being 60 spoke 15 inch
painted, and the rest 48 spoke 15 inch painted and have never had a problem
with any of them.
My importer has a hub mounted up with a dial indicator to check the wheels
before selling them. Apparently tolerance allowed is between 1/16" and 1/32"
in either direction from the bead seating edge.
The worst wheel he's had since about 1985 was out .017", half the allowed
minimum tolerance. Most apparently check out to .007 to .012" on the
average.
In addition I have never had to have any new Dunlop wheels readjusted
later......EVER!
We usually run new tires about 500 miles and adjust tire balance once the're
bedded in, and as Bob Yule says, that's it. We just run them. This includes
the painted 48 spoke ones on driven cars.
Rich Chrysler
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "Stephen Hutchings" <hutching@the-wire.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 11:00:19 +1100
Subject: Re: Big Healey vs TR6: Triumph wins, no contest!
1. "I thought the TR6 was quicker than the Healey.
TR6 handles MUCH better than the big Healey,"
A TR6 may be quicker & handle better than YOUR big Healey Graham - but I
haven't yet seen a road registered TR6 which is faster, quicker or handles
better than my big Healey...........
2. "I think the TR6 is vastly underrated."
Nah - I think they deserve their rating..... $2K to $6K I think a previous
poster said.....
3. "TR6 is safer in a crash"
Only 'cause they are usually travelling much, much slower....... see 1.
above..
: )
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
IMPORTANT: This email is intended for the use of the individual
addressee(s) named above and may contain information that is
confidential, privileged or unsuitable for overly sensitive persons with
no sense of humour or irrational religious or enviromental beliefs. If
you are not the intended recipient, any dissemination, distribution or
copying of this email is not authorised and would be deemed to be
both an annoyance, and an irritating social faux pas. Mate.
From David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Stephen Hutchings" <hutching@the-wire.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 16:10:01 -0800
Subject: Re: Manifold Drain
> Message text written by Roland Wilhelmy
>> n our BJ7, the tubes dropped down below the edge of the sump/block
> interface. Originally they were held there by little brackets with
> littler rubber grommets. The brackets were flat pieces of steel maybe
> an inch long by 1/2 inch wide with a hole in either end. One hole fit
> around a longer sump retaining screw and nut (guess that makes it a
> bolt, not a screw), and the other held the tubing in the grommet.
>
> I made my own out of scrap steel and used black silicone caulk in
> place of cast grommets to hold in place. It has worked fine for
> several years and maybe 8000 miles. It's easy to replace the
> 'grommet', too.<
>
> Roland,
>
> Thanks for the info. I took a couple of wiring clips and opened them up,
> pounded them flat and re-drilled the holes. These look just like the
> originals and are of similar size. Now to get the 1/4" grommets.
> Do you happen to know the oil pan bolt size(will be slightly longer than
> the others) and or the nut size that holds that clip in place?
>
>
> Scot
> '66 BJ8
We have the bracket and grommets available new. The pipes we have some used
ones.
They run down along the exhaust manifold and the to the block and down to
the bracket that is bolted to the oil pan bolt.
--
David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca
209-948-8767 Fax209-948-1030
http://www.britishcarspecialists.com
From Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
From: "Stephen Hutchings" <hutching@the-wire.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 19:15:06 -0500
Subject: Re: Big Healey vs TR6: Triumph wins, no contest!
All of the following is IMHO; others may disagree.
In size and weight, the TR6 is very similar to the big Healey.
The Triumph is slightly narrower, but has more leg room and more
comfortable/supportive seats.
Engines are similar; TR6 had twin Zenith Stromberg carburetors. Pretty
reliable, some unique quirks (thrust washers on the crankshaft liked to
wear and fall out, which was bad!)
I thought the TR6 was quicker than the Healey.
TR6 handles MUCH better than the big Healey, and I drove mine happily at
80-plus on narrow two lane roads in Eastern Washington. It has much
bigger wheels and tires and an independent rear suspension, which was
much criticized for lack of travel but is still better than the Healey
live axle and leaf springs. Front shocks are the modern tube style, and
rear lever shocks can easily be converted to tube shocks; Konis all
round are quite common.
TR has better heating and air flow than the Healey; doesn't have the
"toast the driver" problem.
TR6 is safer in a crash. Has safety steering column with rubber bushing
that will shear off, so driver isn't speared through the chest like he
will be in the Healey; shoulder belts were standard, and you can easily
mount a roll bar that still lets you close the soft top.
TR6 was available with a very attractive factory steel top, plus many
aftermarket tops available.
Ground clearance better. You get to keep your exhaust system longer.
Engine runs much cooler than Healey; overheating almost never a problem.
Parts supply, as with Healey, is excellent. Many parts cheaper than for
Healey (but not by much!) More used parts available.
No expensive, breakable trafficator on Triumph - usual turn signals.
You can get almost all authentic new sheet metal, much of it
manufactured on original tooling by British Heritage.
Triumph has a traditional separate frame, more rust-resistant than
Healey unit body. Otherwise, rusting problems are similar. Scuttle shake
also similar.
Triumph has a real trunk, and the battery is in the engine compartment,
where God intended it.
Triumph electrical system is SLIGHTLY superior to the Healeys.
You can get Triumphs with the Laycock overdrive, though they're somewhat
harder to find.
Stock steel wheels were strong and attractive; but you can also easily
fit wires or Panasports. Also easier to fit wider tires than Healey
With the TR, you know you're driving a better car than any MG, and you
can leave them in the dust, or watch their pitiful little engines
overheat at 65 mph. (When I lived in Eastern Washington, the Triumph
club didn't invite the MG club on drives too often because we had to go
SO SLOWLY.)
With the TR, you can look through the windshield, instead of over it.
With the rear view mirror, you can actually see behind the car.
TR has cool wood dash on ALL models.
Also, I think the TR is good looking in a different way - clean lines,
more "masculine" than the big Healey. The square kammback with the flat
black valance is unique.
Reliability similar, though Triumph engine-driven fuel pump is a plus.
-Graham
<
With that kind of comparison( most of which I don't agree with as I also
have had two TR-6's) it's hard to believe a big Healey is worth four times
as much as a TR-6 in comparable condition! :-)
Scot
'66 BJ8
From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Stephen Hutchings" <hutching@the-wire.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 19:48:42 -0500
Subject: Re: Big Healey vs TR6: Triumph wins, no contest!
That was a pretty good comparison by Vink...although some of the points he
feels are advantage: Triumph, I would rate the other way (e.g., ground
clearance, just from memory).
Anyhow, if I want something quicker, nimbler and more refined than a Healey,
I'll jump into my Miata.
I guess we're getting into religion here, but I wouldn't take a TR-6 if it
were offered free. Not that there's anything at all wrong the the car, just
that it's not my cuppa.
--
John Miller, who *would* swear off Healeys forever in return for a free XKE
From James B Dalglish <leaker at exit109.com>
From: "Stephen Hutchings" <hutching@the-wire.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 19:50:41 -0500
Subject: Healey/TR6 Redux
Jim D
Frozen in.
Manasquan
From "Gary Williams" <gwilliams54 at hotmail.com>
From: "Stephen Hutchings" <hutching@the-wire.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 17:10:18 -0800
Subject: Oil Pan
Thanks in advance.
GW
_________________________________________________________________
Get a FREE online virus check for your PC here, from McAfee.
http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963
From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "Stephen Hutchings" <hutching@the-wire.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 20:13:40 -0500
Subject: Re: Big Healey vs TR6: Triumph wins, no contest!
Allen Miller BN2/M
From Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
From: "Stephen Hutchings" <hutching@the-wire.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 20:52:16 -0500
Subject: Re: Big Healey vs TR6: Triumph wins, no contest!
Allen,
No bashing intended, really. This is a good discussion.
Although the 100-4 and BJ8 are "genetically linked" , they are 15 years
apart from first to last. Quite a difference in performance and "creature
comforts"between the two. Since the first TR-250/6 was made in 1968/1969 I
think you can compare the two cars as these WERE from the same era.
Imho, I think British Leyland tried to continue a legacy in the TR-6 that
the Healey left behind. Although popular in it's price range I don't think
the "6" can hold a candle to any Healey in looks or performance! Off my
soapbox.........
Scot
'66 BJ8
From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Stephen Hutchings" <hutching@the-wire.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 21:28:28 EST
Subject: URX 727 to be Barret Jackson
Just thought I'd pass that along.
Rick
San Diego
From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: "Stephen Hutchings" <hutching@the-wire.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 23:22:20 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: URX 727 to be Barret Jackson
I just checked the Barret Jackson web site and it is not among the 766 cars
listed. See
http://www.barrett-jackson.com/events/scottsdale/vehicles/makelistnb.asp?auctionid=48&makeid=1738
or http://www.barrett-jackson.com/events/scottsdale/default.asp and go to the
'Auction Car List'.
In May of 2002 however, it was sold at the Barrett-Jackson/Coys sale at Monaco.
The following
quote is from Classic & Sports Car; August 2002, Page 195:
"(This car), which has been enjoyed by Peter Butt and his son Tony for the past
30 years, clocked
up a new post-1987-90 boom high for a works Healey of #108,019 with applause
in the
Barrett-Jackson/Coys sale at Monaco."
At that time, #108,019 worked out to about $241,000 Cdn dollars. However,
Coy's web site showed
the auction result at #177,087 which was about $396,000 Cdn dollars. See
http://www.coys.co.uk/auctions/auctions.showlot.php?aucid=10&page=3&id=4953
or go to http://www.coys.co.uk/auctions/ and then the listing "Fri 17th May
2002 Legende et
Passion" and view the results list, item 89 on page 3.
The table below lists the data based on exchange rates at May 2002.
British Pound Cdn Dollar US Dollar
C&SC #108,019 $241,000 $158,000
Coys #177,087 $396,000 $259,000
If it is being sold again at Barrett-Jackson Scottsdale auction at the end of
January, 2004, can
someone confirm the listing and web site. TIA,
--Scott Morris
--- WilKo@aol.com wrote: << I just saw on Speed vision that The Ex-works car
that Patt Moss and
Anne Wisdon drove so victoriously will be on the block next week at Barret
Jackson... Just thought
I'd pass that along. Rick San Diego >>
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Stephen Hutchings" <hutching@the-wire.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 22:24:30 -0600
Subject: Re: Big Healey vs TR
My take on the difference between a big healey and a TR.
TR ++++es Less cockpit heat, better driving position/legroom, parts
cheaper, better MPG
AH ++++es maybe more subjective but in my opinion better looking and better
handling, TRs are high and "tippy" feeling around corners, less flexible
frame/body assembly than the TR (really)
Performance and Reliability = = = = = Pretty close depending on model, I
would think a BJ8 with 150 horsepower would be quicker than an american
spec. TR6 with around 100 HP and roughly the same weight. On the other hand
my BN1 is slower than my 4A was and slower than my brother's TR3A is.
Bottom line I preferred my TR on long drives on hot days, but the Healey
gives me (and others) a thrill just looking at it in the garage.
As to the difference in price any big Healey is pure 50s BMC, and TR6 is
pure 70s BL, that more than performance or styling explains the difference
in price.
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
From Bob T <btarh2o at earthlink.net>
From: "Stephen Hutchings" <hutching@the-wire.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 22:35:28 -0600
Subject: Re: Healey related events
>on 1/16/04 11:50 AM, Skip Besaw at besaw55@yahoo.com wrote:
>
>
>
>>In Cupertino CA for the weekend from Boston (thank God -6 degrees at home)
>>Anything Healey related going on from San Francisco to San Jose?
>>
>>Skip 67 BJ8
>>
>>
>
>The GGAHC has nothing on the schedule this weekend. But if you are the area
>I would strongly recommend getting over to the Blackhawk auto museum. This
>is a huge place that can easily take most of a day to appreciate all the
>cars. They are of HWY 680 north of Dublin, there are signs on the HWY for
>the place.
>
Ditto , it's a great place to spend the day. Don't miss it.
Bob Tarwater
BJ7
From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Stephen Hutchings" <hutching@the-wire.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 23:55:13 EST
Subject: Re: URX 727 to be Barret Jackson
Rick
San Diego.
P.S. I tried to log on to their website during the show for more details but
it must have been swamped.
From Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
From: "Stephen Hutchings" <hutching@the-wire.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 21:05:29 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Big Healey vs TR6 Part II
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Hotjobs: Enter the "Signing Bonus" Sweepstakes
From GSFuqua1 at aol.com
From: "Stephen Hutchings" <hutching@the-wire.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 00:39:04 EST
Subject: Re: Wire Wheel trueing / mounting / balancing / rebuilding
Cheers,
Gary Fuqua
From GSFuqua1 at aol.com
From: "Stephen Hutchings" <hutching@the-wire.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 00:41:19 EST
Subject: Re: Wire Wheel trueing / mounting / balancing / rebuilding
Gary Fuqua
from a race car driver, don't remember who. This was long before shoulder
From: "Stephen Hutchings" <hutching@the-wire.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 21:42:57 -0800
Subject: Re: seat belt color
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA
1967 3000 MKIII HBJ8L39031
> [Original Message]
> From: joe mulqueen <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>
> To: David Nock <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>; healey list
<healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 1/16/2004 1:11:26 PM
> Subject: Re: seat belt color
Another honest question:
> If the car rolls over with no roll bar or cage, are
> shoulder belts better than lap belts - or are you
> considered dead either way?
> Regards,
> JoeM
> '60 BT7
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "Stephen Hutchings" <hutching@the-wire.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 18:32:00 +1100
Subject: Re: Big Healey vs TR6 Part II
My earlier response was a light hearted, friendly 'us versus them', "Healeys
are better than Triumphs" type post.
I hope it didn't come across as 'hostile' - I genuinely never meant it as
hostile.
I offered my comments, based on over 20 years of Healey ownership, and
having whooped a few TRs in CSCA sportscar events over the years - and in
the spirit of what Triumph drivers think of themselves......
http://www.triumphspitfire.com/Jokes.html
Besides - some of my best friends drive sportscars whose heritage is derived
from old tractors.......... http://www.brit.ca/~tboicey/comics/tractr3.html
: )
Oops - I did it again, didn't I http://www.brit.ca/~tboicey/comics/tr9.html
: )
Seriously - on paper - a TR6 (especially in European/ Australian spec - with
fuel injection etc) should beat a 6 cyl Healey.
They just don't seem to be able to in the real world.
Best regrds
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
IMPORTANT: This email is intended for the use of the individual
addressee(s) named above and may contain information that is
confidential, privileged or unsuitable for overly sensitive persons with
no sense of humour or irrational religious or enviromental beliefs. If
you are not the intended recipient, any dissemination, distribution or
copying of this email is not authorised and would be deemed to be
both an annoyance, and an irritating social faux pas. Mate.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jorge Garcia" <fortee9er@yahoo.com>
To: "Austin Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 17, 2004 4:05 PM
Subject: Big Healey vs TR6 Part II
> I am very happy to see that my post has generated a lot of interest but I
never meant to foment hostile feelings between list members. I was looking
for a straight up comparison of the two cars. I am well aware of the
Healey's superior looks and an association with its creators that few cars
enjoy: Lotus/Colin Chapman, Jaguar/William Lyons, Bugatti/Ettore Bugatti,
Porsche/Ferry Porsche, Healey/Donald Healey.My original post was prompted by
my impending unemployment and the thought that I could sell my Healey
purchase a vintage English sports car, vis a vis the TR6, and still have two
thirds of the proceeds from the sale left over for more mundane purposes
like buying groceries. Hopefully I will not have to put my Healey on the
auction block but if I do I want to know what the TR6 is like compared to a
BJ8.
> Thank You for your help
> Jorge
> 65 bj8
From "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl>
From: "Stephen Hutchings" <hutching@the-wire.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 09:27:43 +0100
Subject: Funny washers
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Stephen Hutchings" <hutching@the-wire.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 04:52:08 -0600
Subject: Re: Big Healey vs TR6: Triumph wins, no contest!
From "Bob Yule" <autofarm at cyg.net>
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 07:56:47 -0500
Subject: Funny washers
> Listers, I threw all small components from an odd 30 jamjars in one
plastic
> bucket and had the lot electrolytically zinc-plated. Looks perfect, one
small
> problem: I do not recognise some parts as A-H parts!
> I found a lot of funny washers: longitudinally shaped, rounded ends, some
> dished like a Belleville spring washers and others dead flat. Two sizes:
one
> has a 1/4" hole, is 1/2" wide x 13/16" long, the other has a 5/16" hole,
> 21/32" wide and 1" long.
> Can someone give me either the BMC part codes for these washers, or
indicate a
> place where they're used? The Parts Manual will then help me further. And
> should they be dished or flat (or both?)
> Thanks in advance
> Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
> 1964 BJ8 29432
> 1974 BMW 75/6
>
> ***
From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 11:00:18 EST
Subject: Re: Funny washers
Hmmm. I dunno about you guys, but it's a weird washer that has a hole that is
bigger than the washer : p
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 08:10:34 -0800
Subject: Re: Big Healey vs TR6 Part II
http://cartalk.cars.com/Mail/Letters/07-24-98/9.html
Coincidentally, there is an article in the latest _Austin-Healey Magazine_
(pub by the Austin-Healey Club USA) about some Air Force types
informally drag-racing in the 50s, on a closed airstrip in Jolly Ol'.
A Healey 100 beat a TR3 ... the TR got off the line quicker, but the
O/D made the difference down the stretch. The cars were (apparently)
pretty much stock.
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: "Jorge Garcia" <fortee9er@yahoo.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 16, 2004 11:32 PM
Subject: Re: Big Healey vs TR6 Part II
> G'day Jorge,
>
> My earlier response was a light hearted, friendly 'us versus them', "Healeys
> are better than Triumphs" type post.
>
> I hope it didn't come across as 'hostile' - I genuinely never meant it as
> hostile.
>
> I offered my comments, based on over 20 years of Healey ownership, and
> having whooped a few TRs in CSCA sportscar events over the years - and in
> the spirit of what Triumph drivers think of themselves......
> http://www.triumphspitfire.com/Jokes.html
>
> Besides - some of my best friends drive sportscars whose heritage is derived
> from old tractors.......... http://www.brit.ca/~tboicey/comics/tractr3.html
>
> : )
>
> Oops - I did it again, didn't I http://www.brit.ca/~tboicey/comics/tr9.html
>
> : )
>
> Seriously - on paper - a TR6 (especially in European/ Australian spec - with
> fuel injection etc) should beat a 6 cyl Healey.
>
> They just don't seem to be able to in the real world.
>
> Best regrds
>
> Chris
> ______________________________________
>
> Chris Dimmock
> Sydney Australia
>
> http://www.myaustinhealey.com
> ______________________________________
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 09:13:31 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Need Advice to adjust 100/4 Mechanical Tachmeter
I just got my rebuilt Tachometer back from AH Spares
and put it in my '53 BN1.
The tach is way off - it registeres RPMs approximately
twice as fast as it should.
Is there a calibration screw or some sort of way I can
fix this obviously out of adjustment Tach? The
AHSpares rebuilder doesn't seem to have done a
complete job on the rebuild!
Thanks in advance,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
From "David Ward" <david at bighealey.ltd.uk>
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 18:00:17 -0000
Subject: Re: Need Advice to adjust 100/4 Mechanical Tachmeter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 17, 2004 5:13 PM
Subject: Need Advice to adjust 100/4 Mechanical Tachmeter
> Hi -
>
> I just got my rebuilt Tachometer back from AH Spares
> and put it in my '53 BN1.
>
> The tach is way off - it registeres RPMs approximately
> twice as fast as it should.
>
> Is there a calibration screw or some sort of way I can
> fix this obviously out of adjustment Tach? The
> AHSpares rebuilder doesn't seem to have done a
> complete job on the rebuild!
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '64 BJ8
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 11:15:24 -0700
Subject: Re: Need Advice to adjust 100/4 Mechanical Tachmeter
Dave Russell
BN2
Blue One Hundred wrote:
> Hi -
>
> I just got my rebuilt Tachometer back from AH Spares
> and put it in my '53 BN1.
>
> The tach is way off - it registeres RPMs approximately
> twice as fast as it should.
>
> Is there a calibration screw or some sort of way I can
> fix this obviously out of adjustment Tach? The
> AHSpares rebuilder doesn't seem to have done a
> complete job on the rebuild!
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Alan
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 11:20:01 -0700
Subject: Re: Funny washers
Dave Russell
WilKo@aol.com wrote:
>>one has a 1/4" hole, is 1/2" wide x 13/16" long...
>>
>
>
> Hmmm. I dunno about you guys, but it's a weird washer that has a hole that is
> bigger than the washer : p
From "Gary Williams" <gwilliams54 at hotmail.com>
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 10:22:59 -0800
Subject: Oil Pan Replies
GW
_________________________________________________________________
Get a FREE online virus check for your PC here, from McAfee.
http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963
From "Bill Browning" <gbrowning at carolina.rr.com>
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 13:29:40 -0500
Subject: cd radio (vintage type) suggestions for 1967 BJ8
thanks for any suggestions
Bill B
Charlotte
From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 13:55:34 -0500
Subject: Re: cd radio (vintage type) suggestions for 1967 BJ8
Yes, as you suggest, get yourself a '60s vintage AM-FM radio (or look-alike),
and put a CD changer in the trunk, one that plays on an FM frequency and taps
into the antenna lead. I've got one of 'em, a Pioneer 12-disk, I think,
that's set to play on 88.7.
I don't remember who all made AM-FM car radios in the '60s, but I had a
Motorola in '65.
--
John Miller
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 14:20:50 -0500
Subject: Lamp Unit needed
Does anyone have a line on any 7" Lucas lamp housings (units)? I
don't see just the lamp housings(units) available in the major catalogs.
I don't think Holdens new units are interchangeable with the older lamp
assemblies.
You can put this story in your "Not to Do " file at my expense. Save
the chrome polish for your bumpers. Glass cleaner may have been a better
choice. You chemists may understand this better than I.
Mark,
58-MGA
60-MGA
76-MGB
74.5-MGBGT
60-BT7
From "Tim Davis" <tld6008 at mchsi.com>
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 15:47:58 -0600
Subject: Re: Wire wheels - broader question
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@cox.net>
To: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 16, 2004 4:02 PM
Subject: Re: Wire wheels - broader question
> 48 spoke wheels on a BJ7? I thought only 60 spokers came in with the
3000s?
>
> Keith Pennell
>
> > So I don't think it's worth having my 40-year-old BJ7 wheels trued,
> > especially since they're the 48-spoke.
> >
> > Graham
From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 16:53:54 -0500
Subject: Starter
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 14:16:47 -0800
Subject: Screwed
I'll even take Ed's advice ;)
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 15:36:50 -0700
Subject: Re: Lamp Unit needed
Don't know about replacements. The reflectors were likely silvered - not
very chemical or abrasion resistant. Don't think I would use glass
cleaner. Only alcohol.
Dave Russell
Mark and kathy LaPierre wrote:
> Listers,
> Sometimes we learn the hard way. I attempted to clean the
> reflective area inside of one of my driving lamp units and I guess I
> shouldn't have. The chrome polish I used definitely won that battle.
> It cleaned the reflective material off right down to the brass or what ever
> that is.
> Kind of an interesting gassing interaction going on there. It actually
> fogged up the glass of the lamp unit. I new right away something wasn't
> right : (
>
> Does anyone have a line on any 7" Lucas lamp housings (units)? I
> don't see just the lamp housings(units) available in the major catalogs.
> I don't think Holdens new units are interchangeable with the older lamp
> assemblies.
>
> You can put this story in your "Not to Do " file at my expense. Save
> the chrome polish for your bumpers. Glass cleaner may have been a better
> choice. You chemists may understand this better than I.
>
> Mark,
> 58-MGA
> 60-MGA
> 76-MGB
> 74.5-MGBGT
> 60-BT7
From RobertH148 at aol.com
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 17:38:44 EST
Subject: Re: Big Healey vs TR6: Triumph wins, no contest!
It may also be more realistic to compare the Austin Healey with the TR3 that
was a contemporary car rather than with the newer TR6. Let's not compare
apples and oranges.
Bob Humphreys
1960 AH 3000 BT7
1974 Jensen Healey.
From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 17:45:53 EST
Subject: Re: Big Healey vs TR6: Triumph wins, no contest!
From "Bob, Kim, Rob, Bandit and Pepper" <thewalkers at qwest.net>
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 15:57:07 -0700
Subject: January 04 Austin Healey Club Mag
Anyone get there new issue of the US Austin Healey Club magazine. It
has a really hot photo of a gold over white Healey, likely a BN-7 (I
don't think it has wind up windows and has a flat windshield, and it it
doesn't look like a BN-1 or BN-2 fold back one). ANYWAYS.... there is a
much hotter looking blonde in a 60's looking one piece bathing suit with
that "come hither..."look in her eyes, and man-o-man boys and girls, let
me tell you what i'd do with her if that was my car and she was leaning
on it that way and giving me THAT look....
Well, you want to know, this is what I'd do.
I'd just tell her in no uncertain terms to get her big fat a** off my
car. Do you have any idea how much time and effort it takes to wash and
wax and polish to get it looking just so, not to mention the hours and
hours of work to restore, and fix, and mess up, and re-fix, and read the
forum, and go to Barrett Jackson and RM and take picture and talk to
restorers, and work to buy tools and parts, and take 187 bazillion
pictures of a rusty old fender before you weld in the new dog leg, and
scratch the stinking paint and have to do it again and test drive it and
pull out the freaking stupid whatcha-ma-jimmy because it: leaks/freezes
up/doesn't work/sticks open/sticks closed/is the wrong one/is the right
one for a B?-# which is NOT what I frickin' have dang it/ or it IS the
right one I put it in wrong for the 3,4,5,6, or 7th time/why can't I get
in the d*mn forum I remember Chris or Bob or Ken or Michael or who was
that that wrote that e-mail about THIS problem!?!?!?!?! What in the h*ll
in the matter with you, go next door to Jim's and lean on his '00 Miata,
that thing is an ugly, soul-less piece of crap.
Then I'd say there, there, calm down I'm sorry, why don't we go have
dinner at that place you like. If we hurry I think we can also go to
the mall, I'll bet that little jewelry store is open with those (geegaws
- put in whatever you want) you like and we can get it and go over to
your mother's and show her.
Bob Walker
Saturday afternoon with nothin' to do but think up dumb stuff like this
But really, when you saw this wasn't that the first thing you thought?
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 18:16:52 -0500
Subject: Re: January 04 Austin Healey Club Mag
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob, Kim, Rob, Bandit and Pepper" <thewalkers@qwest.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 17, 2004 5:57 PM
Subject: January 04 Austin Healey Club Mag
> Hey all,
>
> Anyone get there new issue of the US Austin Healey Club magazine. It
> has a really hot photo of a gold over white Healey, likely a BN-7 (I
> don't think it has wind up windows and has a flat windshield, and it it
> doesn't look like a BN-1 or BN-2 fold back one). ANYWAYS.... there is a
> much hotter looking blonde in a 60's looking one piece bathing suit with
> that "come hither..."look in her eyes, and man-o-man boys and girls, let
> me tell you what i'd do with her if that was my car and she was leaning
> on it that way and giving me THAT look....
>
> Well, you want to know, this is what I'd do.
>
> I'd just tell her in no uncertain terms to get her big fat a** off my
> car. Do you have any idea how much time and effort it takes to wash and
> wax and polish to get it looking just so, not to mention the hours and
> hours of work to restore, and fix, and mess up, and re-fix, and read the
> forum, and go to Barrett Jackson and RM and take picture and talk to
> restorers, and work to buy tools and parts, and take 187 bazillion
> pictures of a rusty old fender before you weld in the new dog leg, and
> scratch the stinking paint and have to do it again and test drive it and
> pull out the freaking stupid whatcha-ma-jimmy because it: leaks/freezes
> up/doesn't work/sticks open/sticks closed/is the wrong one/is the right
> one for a B?-# which is NOT what I frickin' have dang it/ or it IS the
> right one I put it in wrong for the 3,4,5,6, or 7th time/why can't I get
> in the d*mn forum I remember Chris or Bob or Ken or Michael or who was
> that that wrote that e-mail about THIS problem!?!?!?!?! What in the h*ll
> in the matter with you, go next door to Jim's and lean on his '00 Miata,
> that thing is an ugly, soul-less piece of crap.
>
> Then I'd say there, there, calm down I'm sorry, why don't we go have
> dinner at that place you like. If we hurry I think we can also go to
> the mall, I'll bet that little jewelry store is open with those (geegaws
> - put in whatever you want) you like and we can get it and go over to
> your mother's and show her.
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 16:56:02 -0700
Subject: Re: Big Healey vs TR6: Triumph wins, no contest!
Dave Russell
Simonlachlan@aol.com wrote:
> UK TR6s were fuel injected. First ones were +/- 150 bhp. Don't know the
> figures, but they weren't slow.
> Simon
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 18:59:45 -0500
Subject: Screwed
> Anybody got a way to remove the large screws that attach the door
> hinges to the scuttle side panel? Have tried an impact screwdriver
> and an impact wrench (only have a 3/8"). They're sealed by paint, so
> I can't get penetrating oil in there.
>
> I'll even take Ed's advice ;)
From Rick Neville <healeyrick at yahoo.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 16:01:37 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: January 04 Austin Healey Club Mag
Rick
--- "Bob, Kim, Rob, Bandit and Pepper"
<thewalkers@qwest.net> wrote:
> Hey all,
>
> Anyone get there new issue of the US Austin Healey
> Club magazine. It
> has a really hot photo of a gold over white Healey,
> likely a BN-7 (I
> don't think it has wind up windows and has a flat
> windshield, and it it
> doesn't look like a BN-1 or BN-2 fold back one).
> ANYWAYS.... there is a
> much hotter looking blonde in a 60's looking one
> piece bathing suit with
> that "come hither..."look in her eyes, and man-o-man
> boys and girls, let
> me tell you what i'd do with her if that was my car
> and she was leaning
> on it that way and giving me THAT look....
>
> Well, you want to know, this is what I'd do.
>
> I'd just tell her in no uncertain terms to get her
> big fat a** off my
> car. Do you have any idea how much time and effort
> it takes to wash and
> wax and polish to get it looking just so, not to
> mention the hours and
> hours of work to restore, and fix, and mess up, and
> re-fix, and read the
> forum, and go to Barrett Jackson and RM and take
> picture and talk to
> restorers, and work to buy tools and parts, and take
> 187 bazillion
> pictures of a rusty old fender before you weld in
> the new dog leg, and
> scratch the stinking paint and have to do it again
> and test drive it and
> pull out the freaking stupid whatcha-ma-jimmy
> because it: leaks/freezes
> up/doesn't work/sticks open/sticks closed/is the
> wrong one/is the right
> one for a B?-# which is NOT what I frickin' have
> dang it/ or it IS the
> right one I put it in wrong for the 3,4,5,6, or 7th
> time/why can't I get
> in the d*mn forum I remember Chris or Bob or Ken or
> Michael or who was
> that that wrote that e-mail about THIS
> problem!?!?!?!?! What in the h*ll
> in the matter with you, go next door to Jim's and
> lean on his '00 Miata,
> that thing is an ugly, soul-less piece of crap.
>
> Then I'd say there, there, calm down I'm sorry, why
> don't we go have
> dinner at that place you like. If we hurry I think
> we can also go to
> the mall, I'll bet that little jewelry store is open
> with those (geegaws
> - put in whatever you want) you like and we can get
> it and go over to
> your mother's and show her.
>
>
> Bob Walker
> Saturday afternoon with nothin' to do but think up
> dumb stuff like this
>
> But really, when you saw this wasn't that the first
> thing you thought?
>
>
__________________________________
Yahoo! Hotjobs: Enter the "Signing Bonus" Sweepstakes
http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/signingbonus
From Rick Neville <healeyrick at yahoo.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 16:09:03 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Wire wheels
Wheel Repair Service, Inc.
317 Southbridge St
Auburn, MA 01501
508-832-4949 Specialists in wire wheel rebuilding &
disc wheel straightening on antique, classic, domestic
and foreign autos and motorcycles. Service includes:
sandblasting, refinishing, chrome plating, and alloy
wheel polishing.
Happy Healeying,
Rick
--- "Haber, David J." <David.Haber@vtmednet.org>
wrote:
> Anyone know of a good wire wheel shop in New
> England?
>
>
__________________________________
Yahoo! Hotjobs: Enter the "Signing Bonus" Sweepstakes
http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/signingbonus
From "Rick" <webmasterrick at comcast.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 19:17:50 -0600
Subject: Re: Screwed
"
<<I'll even take Ed's advice ;)>>
SA!!
FIRST Bob, they "should be" PoziDriv fasteners! So do NOT use a Phillips
driver!!!
Second, TIGHTEN all of them. Just enough to "break" to paint.
Third, dental pick (type tool) and scratch out the paint from the groove.
3a: Then some Busty, Kroil, PBBlaster, whatever. LEAVE IT ALONE!!!! Go
have SEVERAL brews of choice! Maybe even a Beach Bunny<G><G><G>!!!
Fourth, NOW try an "un-do"<G>! NOT all of it, just a wack!
More of 3a.
Repeat Second.
More of 3a.
repeat 3a.
Repeat Second and you 'should' find fastener going further towards
"Un-do"<G>!
FIFTH: Keep at it.
<BFG>!!!!
Only lost ONE battle in a VERY long time doing it that way. And that was a
STEEL bolt thru an aluminum sleeve (Chevy 350 alternator).
So THERE!
Ed
PS: enough of 3a and youse gonna be either druck out of your mind or VERY
"tired"!!!! <smirk>
"
Don't shoot the messenger!!!
Rick
from happening.
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 17:25:46 -0800
Subject: Re: Screwed
bspidell@pacbell.net wrote:
>Anybody got a way to remove the large screws that attach the door
>hinges to the scuttle side panel? Have tried an impact screwdriver
>and an impact wrench (only have a 3/8"). They're sealed by paint, so
>I can't get penetrating oil in there.
>
>I'll even take Ed's advice ;)
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 20:32:23 -0500
Subject: Re: Wire wheels - broader question
Keith Pennell
> 60 spokes became standard only with the 3000 Mk3 Series BJ8.
> Rich Chrysler
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 17:47:49 -0800
Subject: Fw: Screwed
One point to note - if the screws are the originals, the are posidriv, not
Phillips. Switching to a posidriv bit on the hand impact screwdriver on a
long extension, and hitting pretty hard might work - always has for me. (If
only the last guy had used antiseize compound!)
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BT7 tri-carb
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>; "healeylist"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 17, 2004 3:59 PM
Subject: Re: Screwed
Bob,
Heat directed on the head of the hinge screws plus the correct size
screwdriver bit from your impact set, adapted to a socket flex handle for
more leverage. It'll come out, though you will screw up the paint in the
immediate area. Hope that's not an issue.
Rich Chrysler
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 17, 2004 5:16 PM
Subject: Screwed
> Anybody got a way to remove the large screws that attach the door
> hinges to the scuttle side panel? Have tried an impact screwdriver
> and an impact wrench (only have a 3/8"). They're sealed by paint, so
> I can't get penetrating oil in there.
>
> I'll even take Ed's advice ;)
From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 21:25:24 -0500
Subject: RE: Oil Pan Replies
Didn't see any of these informative replies to the list! Why answer in
private folks? Is this a "secret" discussion?
I, for one, would love to hear other people's trials, tribulations, and sump
successes.
Sigh...........
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
Amateur Radio AI2Q
http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
.-.-.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Gary Williams
Sent: Saturday, January 17, 2004 1:23 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Oil Pan Replies
Thanks to all who replied to my query regarding replacement of the oil pan
on my BJ8. Your thoughts and recommendations are much appreciated!
GW
From "John Trifari" <jtrifari at comcast.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 20:06:30 -0800
Subject: Coker to attend Healey Rendezvous/OpenRoads
John Trifari
Golden Gate Austin Healey Club
408-541-9608
jtrifari@GoldenGateHealeys.com
jtrifari@comcast.net
Gerry Coker to be honored Guest at
Healey Rendezvous 2004/OpenRoads
SUNNYVALE CA - January 10, 2004: Gerry Coker, the designer who gave
what was to become the Austin Healey BN1 its beauty, flair and sporting
appearance
and who was responsible for the initial design of the Sprite, will be the
honored guest
at the upcoming Healey Rendezvous 2004/OpenRoads meet at Lake Tahoe. He will
be accompanied by his wife, Marion.
The meet, be hosted by the Golden Gate Austin Healey Club, will be
held at the Horizon Casino and Resort in Stateline NV (Lake Tahoe South
Shore). It will run from Thursday, June 3, 3004 through Saturday, June 5.
Arrival is during the afternoon of Wednesday, June 2; departure is Sunday,
June 6.
Gerry Coker's association with Donald Healey and the cars
that bear the Healey name goes back to the time when the Healey Motor Car
Company was one of a number of start-up British auto firms developing
specialty competition cars for the tracks in England and the Continent in
the years immediately following World War II. During this period, Donald
Healey came up with the idea of a competition car that would meet the
demands of the far larger market for sports cars in the United States.
Already, MGs at the low end and Jaguars at the high end had captured a
good segment of this fast-growing market. DMH envisioned a car that offered
performance levels far in excess of those available from the MGs then being
sold, and at a price that MG owners could afford.
Once the overall design for this new concept had been settled and
construction of the prototype had begun, Gerry took charge of styling the
new offering, with particular attention to the details that make the BN1 so
distinctive. Gerry designed the car's interior and dashboard. He created
the car's distinctive grille and he conceived the 100's famous sliding
windshield.
Gerry Coker went on to develop specialty cars for DMH, including the
Bonneville racer, and did much of the preliminary body work design on the
Bugeye Sprite. He left Healey before that car reached production, and went
on to become a successful automotive design engineer in the US, where
he and his wife, Marion, now live.
"Gerry is a special part of the Healey legacy," said event chairman
Loren Cross. "More than anyone he was responsible for the look of
the first Big Healey and for all the Big Healeys that followed."
Registration for Healey Rendezvous 2004/OpenRoads is now open
and reservations for the event are now being taken. A registration fee of
$89 covers one car and two adults. Additional adults are $30 each;
additional cars $30. There is no charge for children under 15. A
registration form for Healey Rendezvous 2004/OpenRoads, along with details
concerning the events and all planned activities, information on the
Horizon, and coverage of the Lake Tahoe area can also be downloaded from
the Golden Gate Austin Healey Club web site www.GoldenGateHealeys.com.
Double rooms will be available at the Horizon for $89 per night;
$99 for three people per room and $109 for four. There will be a $30 charge
for each additional adult or car. Registrants must have a registration
number
issued by the Golden Gate Austin Healey Club to obtain this special rate.
###
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 20:26:56 -0800
Subject: Re: Lamp Unit needed
John Snyder
> Listers,
> Sometimes we learn the hard way. I attempted to clean the
> reflective area inside of one of my driving lamp units and I guess I
> shouldn't have. The chrome polish I used definitely won that battle.
> It cleaned the reflective material off right down to the brass or what
ever
> that is. Kind of an interesting gassing interaction going on there. It
actually
> fogged up the glass of the lamp unit. I new right away something wasn't
> right : (
Does anyone have a line on any 7" Lucas lamp housings (units)? I
> don't see just the lamp housings(units) available in the major catalogs.
> I don't think Holdens new units are interchangeable with the older lamp
> assemblies.
>
> You can put this story in your "Not to Do " file at my expense.
Save
> the chrome polish for your bumpers. Glass cleaner may have been a better
> choice. You chemists may understand this better than I.
From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 23:29:42 EST
Subject: Re: Lamp Unit needed
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 22:30:53 -0800
Subject: Thanks ...
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
From Ken Mason <meditionm at netscape.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 22:33:20 -0800
Subject: Re: screwed
Bob
I do not know if my hinge screws were as tough to get out as yours, but
I bought a No. 4 philips socket driver from Sears. It fit the sdrewa
very well, and with the leverage from the longer handle, they came right
out. May have to push very hard into the screw to prevent ugly things
from happening.
Ken Mason
BJ& in work
bspidell@pacbell.net wrote:
Anybody got a way to remove the large screws that attach the door
hinges to the scuttle side panel? Have tried an impact screwdriver
and an impact wrench (only have a 3/8"). They're sealed by paint, so
I can't get penetrating oil in there.
I'll even take Ed's advice
From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 06:54:39 -0500
Subject: "LeMans" headlight
Allen Miller BN2/M
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 06:51:33 -0600
Subject: Re: Wire wheels - broader question
From "Kent McLean" <kentmclean at mindspring.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 08:00:31 -0500
Subject: Re: Big Healey vs TR6: Triumph wins, no contest!
Whoa, there big fella. I can't let this slip by. All TRs,
including the TR6, are genetically linked to that TR2.
The TR6 was a cheap update of the TR4 -- Michelotti
was given the task. They changed the front and rear,
but left the doors alone. The TR6 was a TR4 with a
six cylinder engine the way the 100/6 was a 100 with
a six cylinder engine.
Cheers,
Kent
'56 100 BN2
'64 TR-4A, long gone
From "David Masucci" <dmasucci at radiantsoundworks.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 09:00:19 -0500
Subject: Re: Big Healey vs TR6: Triumph wins, no contest!
I won't comment on the debate over whether the Healey or TR6 is a better
car. Better for what? Which "parameter" is most important to you?
Dave
BJ8 64
TR4A 66
Mustang Cobra 98
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kent McLean" <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 18, 2004 8:00 AM
Subject: Re: Big Healey vs TR6: Triumph wins, no contest!
> Allen C Miller, Jr. wrote:
> > The TR6 was a product of the 70's. All Big Healeys are
> > genetically linked to the 100-4 of 1952, a contemporary
> > of the TR2.
>
> Whoa, there big fella. I can't let this slip by. All TRs,
> including the TR6, are genetically linked to that TR2.
> The TR6 was a cheap update of the TR4 -- Michelotti
> was given the task. They changed the front and rear,
> but left the doors alone. The TR6 was a TR4 with a
> six cylinder engine the way the 100/6 was a 100 with
> a six cylinder engine.
>
> Cheers,
> Kent
> '56 100 BN2
> '64 TR-4A, long gone
From "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 16:08:46 +0100
Subject: Funny washers
From "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid at hotmail.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 15:23:43 +0000
Subject: RE: January 04 Austin Healey Magazine
You may be relieved to know that the cover image is an art print -- not a
photo. No actual Healeys were leaned on in the production of that cover!
Not sure that a swimsuit-clad rear would do much damage to a Healey wing
(fender) anyway, but in any case from your reaction to her I guess you don't
get many dates... ;-) Just kidding!
Anyway, glad you enjoyed it. I've never received so many comments that were
so positive about a cover! By the way, you can buy copies of that art print
and others from the artist, Larry Norton. Just go to:
www.zoomzoomclassics.com for the whole story.
By the way, the car is a BJ7/8 in a decidedly non-original color. Also by
the way, anyone joining the club now gets copies of all issues already
published so far this year, so to get your very own copy of the magazine
with the cover that everyone is talking about, just go to:
www.healey.org
where you can join online.
Reid,
Editor
Reid Trummel
Portland, Oregon
100, 100M, Bugeye, Ski-Master
>From: "Bob, Kim, Rob, Bandit and Pepper" <thewalkers@qwest.net>
>Reply-To: "Bob, Kim, Rob, Bandit and Pepper" <thewalkers@qwest.net>
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: January 04 Austin Healey Club Mag Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 15:57:07
>-0700
>
>Hey all,
>
>Anyone get there new issue of the US Austin Healey Club magazine. It has
>a really hot photo of a gold over white Healey, likely a BN-7 (I don't
>think it has wind up windows and has a flat windshield, and it it doesn't
>look like a BN-1 or BN-2 fold back one). ANYWAYS.... there is a much
>hotter looking blonde in a 60's looking one piece bathing suit with that
>"come hither..."look in her eyes, and man-o-man boys and girls, let me tell
>you what i'd do with her if that was my car and she was leaning on it that
>way and giving me THAT look....
>
>Well, you want to know, this is what I'd do.
>
>I'd just tell her in no uncertain terms to get her big fat a** off my car.
>Do you have any idea how much time and effort it takes to wash and wax and
>polish to get it looking just so, not to mention the hours and hours of
>work to restore, and fix, and mess up, and re-fix, and read the forum, and
>go to Barrett Jackson and RM and take picture and talk to restorers, and
>work to buy tools and parts, and take 187 bazillion pictures of a rusty old
>fender before you weld in the new dog leg, and scratch the stinking paint
>and have to do it again and test drive it and pull out the freaking stupid
>whatcha-ma-jimmy because it: leaks/freezes up/doesn't work/sticks
>open/sticks closed/is the wrong one/is the right one for a B?-# which is
>NOT what I frickin' have dang it/ or it IS the right one I put it in wrong
>for the 3,4,5,6, or 7th time/why can't I get in the d*mn forum I remember
>Chris or Bob or Ken or Michael or who was that that wrote that e-mail about
>THIS problem!?!?!?!?! What in the h*ll in the matter with you, go next door
>to Jim's and lean on his '00 Miata, that thing is an ugly, soul-less piece
>of crap.
>
>Then I'd say there, there, calm down I'm sorry, why don't we go have dinner
>at that place you like. If we hurry I think we can also go to the mall,
>I'll bet that little jewelry store is open with those (geegaws - put in
>whatever you want) you like and we can get it and go over to your mother's
>and show her.
>
>
>Bob Walker
>Saturday afternoon with nothin' to do but think up dumb stuff like this
_________________________________________________________________
Learn how to choose, serve, and enjoy wine at Wine @ MSN.
http://wine.msn.com/
From "Rick &7& Neves" <Rick at genomictechnologies.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 10:34:46 -0500
Subject: King Bushings drop right through?
I have disassembled the components and I had purchased a front end rebuild kit
from Ebay (So zero support!).
Everything looks OK, but when I sent the Swivel and new king pins along with
the new bearings to my machinist he found that after pushing out he old
bushings the new Bushings dropped right through!
I believe this king pin set is old stock. I don't know the name on it but I
remember it was in a red box.
Has anybody had this happen before?
I don't know what the dimensions the swivel should have so I don't know if
its been machined out. It doesn't look like it.
Sincerely
Rick Neves
'56 BN-2
_._
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.561 / Virus Database: 353 - Release Date: 01/13/2004
From "Ron Davies" <rdavies1 at cox.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 07:33:19 -0800
Subject: RE: Oil Pan Replies
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Alex
Sent: Saturday, January 17, 2004 6:25 PM
To: 'Gary Williams'; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Oil Pan Replies
GW:
Didn't see any of these informative replies to the list! Why answer in
private folks? Is this a "secret" discussion?
I, for one, would love to hear other people's trials, tribulations, and sump
successes.
Sigh...........
From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 11:16:06 -0500
Subject: RE: King Bushings drop right through?
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Rick &7& Neves
Sent: Sunday, January 18, 2004 10:35 AM
To: Healey list
Subject: King Bushings drop right through?
I am in the process of refurbishing my front end of a '56 BN-2.
I have disassembled the components and I had purchased a front end
rebuild kit
from Ebay (So zero support!).
Everything looks OK, but when I sent the Swivel and new king pins along
with
the new bearings to my machinist he found that after pushing out he old
bushings the new Bushings dropped right through!
I believe this king pin set is old stock. I don't know the name on it
but I
remember it was in a red box.
Has anybody had this happen before?
I don't know what the dimensions the swivel should have so I don't know
if
its been machined out. It doesn't look like it.
Sincerely
Rick Neves
'56 BN-2
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 11:40:52 -0600
Subject: Re: Wire wheels - broader question
From "Scott Willis" <ahpowered at hotmail.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 02:20:10 -0600
Subject: test
From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 11:50:25 -0600
Subject: Re: Big Healey vs TR6: Triumph wins, no contest!
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
66 TR4A (many moons ago)
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Masucci" <dmasucci@radiantsoundworks.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 18, 2004 8:00 AM
Subject: Re: Big Healey vs TR6: Triumph wins, no contest!
> Actually the TR6 was not based on the TR2/3. Yes they're linked, but so
are
> Healeys and old British taxi cabs. During TR4 production, a new frame was
> introduced. This frame was rather radically changed to accomodate an
> independent rear suspension system. Later on the TR4A was updated with a
new
> 6 cyl engine along with that new frame, and this became the TR250 here in
> the US. THAT car is what was later rebodied in the front and rear to
become
> the TR6. Doors and rockers were untouched. IMHO, there's not a lot of
> similarity between a TR2/3 and a TR6, other than the fact that they are
both
> seperate body/frame old-school British sports cars.
>
> I won't comment on the debate over whether the Healey or TR6 is a better
> car. Better for what? Which "parameter" is most important to you?
>
> Dave
> BJ8 64
> TR4A 66
> Mustang Cobra 98
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Kent McLean" <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, January 18, 2004 8:00 AM
> Subject: Re: Big Healey vs TR6: Triumph wins, no contest!
>
>
> > Allen C Miller, Jr. wrote:
> > > The TR6 was a product of the 70's. All Big Healeys are
> > > genetically linked to the 100-4 of 1952, a contemporary
> > > of the TR2.
> >
> > Whoa, there big fella. I can't let this slip by. All TRs,
> > including the TR6, are genetically linked to that TR2.
> > The TR6 was a cheap update of the TR4 -- Michelotti
> > was given the task. They changed the front and rear,
> > but left the doors alone. The TR6 was a TR4 with a
> > six cylinder engine the way the 100/6 was a 100 with
> > a six cylinder engine.
> >
> > Cheers,
> > Kent
> > '56 100 BN2
> > '64 TR-4A, long gone
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 11:00:13 -0800
Subject: Essay Appropos of Nothing--2nd Coolest Triumph ever
I believe the case of Triumph thinking they could copy and build a
state-of-the-art Alfa is still studied in psychology courses as a prime
example of collective psychosis. Perhaps the designers were commies who
emigrated to the USSR and copied captured DC-3's and B-29's during the war.
But the 2nd coolest was the TR-S, which was a better-looking forerunner of
the TR-4 with a DOHC 165hp 4 cyl with 2x 2bbl SUs. I remember seeing an
article on it in Road & Track in a late 50s-early 60s issue. It had the
headlights coming straight off the front of the fenders, like a Healey, but
otherwise resembled the TR-4.
Of course it was way too cool and must have given the fuddy-duddy management
dinosaurs a heart attack contemplating its coolness and they just had to
make it slower and uglier as the TR4. Maybe they decided no-one would know
it's a Triumph without the headlights in the grille. Yikes!
I think the TR-6 was actually the only Triumph, since the Dolomite and the
TR-S, which was actually a straight-forward good-looking car. (Though not in
a class with the Healey).
I think the prices are reflected in the fact that it's a plastic and
cardboard car and is likely going to disintegrate more and more and be too
expensive to fix.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 11:05:07 -0800
Subject: Triumph vs Healey--performance art
From "i erbs" <eyera3 at comcast.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 10:29:38 -0800
Subject: RE: Big Healey vs TR6: Triumph wins, no contest!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Greg Lemon
Sent: Sunday, January 18, 2004 9:50 AM
To: David Masucci; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Big Healey vs TR6: Triumph wins, no contest!
Not to mention a revised front suspension with the TR4A and switch to
rack and pinion with the TR4, as Dave said "better" is highly
subjective, The TR6 would arguably make a better daily driver, but the
market seems to think (based on price) that the Healey is the better
collector car.
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
66 TR4A (many moons ago)
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Masucci" <dmasucci@radiantsoundworks.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 18, 2004 8:00 AM
Subject: Re: Big Healey vs TR6: Triumph wins, no contest!
> Actually the TR6 was not based on the TR2/3. Yes they're linked, but
> so
are
> Healeys and old British taxi cabs. During TR4 production, a new frame
> was introduced. This frame was rather radically changed to accomodate
> an independent rear suspension system. Later on the TR4A was updated
> with a
new
> 6 cyl engine along with that new frame, and this became the TR250 here
> in the US. THAT car is what was later rebodied in the front and rear
> to
become
> the TR6. Doors and rockers were untouched. IMHO, there's not a lot of
> similarity between a TR2/3 and a TR6, other than the fact that they
> are
both
> seperate body/frame old-school British sports cars.
>
> I won't comment on the debate over whether the Healey or TR6 is a
> better car. Better for what? Which "parameter" is most important to
> you?
>
> Dave
> BJ8 64
> TR4A 66
> Mustang Cobra 98
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Kent McLean" <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, January 18, 2004 8:00 AM
> Subject: Re: Big Healey vs TR6: Triumph wins, no contest!
>
>
> > Allen C Miller, Jr. wrote:
> > > The TR6 was a product of the 70's. All Big Healeys are genetically
> > > linked to the 100-4 of 1952, a contemporary of the TR2.
> >
> > Whoa, there big fella. I can't let this slip by. All TRs,
> > including the TR6, are genetically linked to that TR2. The TR6 was a
> > cheap update of the TR4 -- Michelotti was given the task. They
> > changed the front and rear, but left the doors alone. The TR6 was a
> > TR4 with a six cylinder engine the way the 100/6 was a 100 with
> > a six cylinder engine.
> >
> > Cheers,
> > Kent
> > '56 100 BN2
> > '64 TR-4A, long gone
From "m l" <h3000bn7 at hotmail.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 11:17:05 -0800
Subject: RE: Big Healey vs TR6: Triumph wins, no contest!
I just wanted to thank the list for the recommendations for a car transport
service and to inform you all that my 60 BN7 arrived safely last monday.
I used Reliable Carriers and had the car shipped from Los Angeles to Bowie,
MD (my Parents residence)
the shipment took a little more than a week
Thanks again,
Mark
_________________________________________________________________
Check out the new MSN 9 Dial-up fast & reliable Internet access with prime
features! http://join.msn.com/?pgmarket=en-us&page=dialup/home&ST=1
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 11:41:05 -0800
Subject: Successfully (un)screwed!
It's quite possible these screws hadn't been removed since new.
I recommend trying this before you apply heat ... it wasn't even necessary
to use penetrating oil.
Thanks for all the suggestions (which ultimately lead to this solution).
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
From GSFuqua1 at aol.com
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 15:07:30 EST
Subject: Re: Big Healey vs TR6: Triumph wins, no contest!
Having said all this if I had to choose one car (and didn't have to consider
my wife being along with me) there is nothing like the BN2. It will eat my TR
3B for lunch (both are stock) and is so much fun to toss around the curves in
the Ozarks. If my wife is with me then we take the TR 6 because of the heat
issues with the Big Healey. She loves the look of the Healey but prefers to
comfort of the 6. As I said, I don't care about the heat. I just love driving
the cars.
Cheers,
Gary Fuqua
Branson, Missouri
56 BN2, 59 Bugeye, 67 3000 Mk III, 62 TR 3B (x2), 68 TR 250 & 75 TR 6.
Ps...My 76 Porsche Targa (36K original miles and all stock) will absolutely
DUST anything above including my 66 Corvette 427/425 and it has A/C.
From "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid at hotmail.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 21:21:16 +0000
Subject: Re: Big Healey vs TR6: Triumph wins, no contest!
It's almost as if the relative "crudeness" of a big Healey makes you feel
more in charge and more directly experiencing the road. When I shift a
Healey, I feel metal on metal; when I shifted the TR6, I felt Teflon on
plastic. When I depress the accelerator in the Healey, I feel the throttle
return springs; when I depress the accelerator in the TR6, I felt the gas
pedal return spring. When I turn the Healey's steering wheel, I feel tires
turning on the road; when I turn the TR6 steering wheel, the resulting turn
seems almost coincidental.
Does this make any sense, or am I so prejudiced in favor of Healeys that I
subconscienously credit it with virtues it doesn't have?
Reid
Reid Trummel
Portland, Oregon
100, 100M, Bugeye, Ski-Master
>From: GSFuqua1@aol.com
>Reply-To: GSFuqua1@aol.com
>To: glemon@neb.rr.com, dmasucci@radiantsoundworks.com,
>healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: Big Healey vs TR6: Triumph wins, no contest!
>Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 15:07:30 EST
>
>OK, can't resist any longer. I have models of both of these cars
>(including
>their younger sibling) They all have their unique strong and weak points.
>I
>think comparing them is truly a subjective opinion matter. Frankly, I like
>them all but let's not forget that there were a LOT more Triumphs produced
>and
>sold than Healeys. That does tend to have some affect on market price.
>
>Having said all this if I had to choose one car (and didn't have to
>consider
>my wife being along with me) there is nothing like the BN2. It will eat my
>TR
>3B for lunch (both are stock) and is so much fun to toss around the curves
>in
>the Ozarks. If my wife is with me then we take the TR 6 because of the
>heat
>issues with the Big Healey. She loves the look of the Healey but prefers
>to
>comfort of the 6. As I said, I don't care about the heat. I just love
>driving
>the cars.
>
>Cheers,
>
>Gary Fuqua
>Branson, Missouri
>56 BN2, 59 Bugeye, 67 3000 Mk III, 62 TR 3B (x2), 68 TR 250 & 75 TR 6.
>
>Ps...My 76 Porsche Targa (36K original miles and all stock) will absolutely
>DUST anything above including my 66 Corvette 427/425 and it has A/C.
>
_________________________________________________________________
Learn how to choose, serve, and enjoy wine at Wine @ MSN.
http://wine.msn.com/
From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 16:48:06 -0500
Subject: a cautionary tale
Yesterday I was moving it, and the crate seemed unusually heavy. A little
curious, I broke open the crate, and horrified to find I had been sent a
1-1/2" carbuerettor head for the early 100-6 'ridgeback'. I had never thought
much about the crate being a little long.
Unfortunately, the shipping label is gone, so there's no way to rectify the
situation. I 've lost the name of the seller.
So if there's a 100-6 fan out there wondering what he's going to do to cover
the other 2 cylinders on his Longbridge, I'll gladly swap my spare for a solid
100-4 head. It'd be a great solution for a real headache. My wife suggested
cutting off the extra two cylinders. If anyone out there has a tactful
explanation, I could use it; mine was a little lacking.
I'm also told that the part number for the early 100-6 cyl head is the same
one listed for Healey Marine boat anchors, so the offer goes out to yatchsmen
as well.
Seriously, if anyone needs a solid 100-6 head, please contact me off list. The
head is in pretty decent shape, but some valves have pitting so I assume a
rebuild is warranted.
Allen Miller BN2/M
From <INSPTWO at msn.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 16:55:26 -0500
Subject: finish panels
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 15:16:14 -0700
Subject: Re: Big Healey vs TR6: Triumph wins, no contest!
Dave Russell
BN2
Reid Trummel wrote:
> My collection and experience can't match Gary's, but I did own a TR6 for
> a year or two some years ago. I liked it quite a bit, and the exhaust
> note was really nice, too. It was reasonably comfortable and civilized
> and very fun to drive, but somehow... The ride always felt too spongy
> for my taste, and the suspension was reasonably fresh.
>
> It's almost as if the relative "crudeness" of a big Healey makes you
> feel more in charge and more directly experiencing the road. When I
> shift a Healey, I feel metal on metal; when I shifted the TR6, I felt
> Teflon on plastic. When I depress the accelerator in the Healey, I feel
> the throttle return springs; when I depress the accelerator in the TR6,
> I felt the gas pedal return spring. When I turn the Healey's steering
> wheel, I feel tires turning on the road; when I turn the TR6 steering
> wheel, the resulting turn seems almost coincidental.
>
> Does this make any sense, or am I so prejudiced in favor of Healeys that
> I subconscienously credit it with virtues it doesn't have?
>
> Reid
>
> Reid Trummel
> Portland, Oregon
> 100, 100M, Bugeye, Ski-Master
From Win Graham <win at gmi.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 16:51:19 -0600
Subject: Fuel Pump Problem
Win Graham
63 BJ7
From "i erbs" <eyera3 at comcast.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 14:44:38 -0800
Subject: RE: Big Healey vs TR6: Triumph wins, no contest!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Reid Trummel
Sent: Sunday, January 18, 2004 1:21 PM
To: GSFuqua1@aol.com; glemon@neb.rr.com; dmasucci@radiantsoundworks.com;
healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Big Healey vs TR6: Triumph wins, no contest!
My collection and experience can't match Gary's, but I did own a TR6 for
a
year or two some years ago. I liked it quite a bit, and the exhaust
note
was really nice, too. It was reasonably comfortable and civilized and
very
fun to drive, but somehow... The ride always felt too spongy for my
taste,
and the suspension was reasonably fresh.
It's almost as if the relative "crudeness" of a big Healey makes you
feel
more in charge and more directly experiencing the road. When I shift a
Healey, I feel metal on metal; when I shifted the TR6, I felt Teflon on
plastic. When I depress the accelerator in the Healey, I feel the
throttle
return springs; when I depress the accelerator in the TR6, I felt the
gas
pedal return spring. When I turn the Healey's steering wheel, I feel
tires
turning on the road; when I turn the TR6 steering wheel, the resulting
turn
seems almost coincidental.
Does this make any sense, or am I so prejudiced in favor of Healeys that
I
subconscienously credit it with virtues it doesn't have?
Reid
Reid Trummel
Portland, Oregon
100, 100M, Bugeye, Ski-Master
>From: GSFuqua1@aol.com
>Reply-To: GSFuqua1@aol.com
>To: glemon@neb.rr.com, dmasucci@radiantsoundworks.com,
>healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: Big Healey vs TR6: Triumph wins, no contest!
>Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 15:07:30 EST
>
>OK, can't resist any longer. I have models of both of these cars
>(including
>their younger sibling) They all have their unique strong and weak
points.
>I
>think comparing them is truly a subjective opinion matter. Frankly, I
like
>them all but let's not forget that there were a LOT more Triumphs
produced
>and
>sold than Healeys. That does tend to have some affect on market price.
>
>Having said all this if I had to choose one car (and didn't have to
>consider
>my wife being along with me) there is nothing like the BN2. It will
eat my
>TR
>3B for lunch (both are stock) and is so much fun to toss around the
curves
>in
>the Ozarks. If my wife is with me then we take the TR 6 because of the
>heat
>issues with the Big Healey. She loves the look of the Healey but
prefers
>to
>comfort of the 6. As I said, I don't care about the heat. I just love
>driving
>the cars.
>
>Cheers,
>
>Gary Fuqua
>Branson, Missouri
>56 BN2, 59 Bugeye, 67 3000 Mk III, 62 TR 3B (x2), 68 TR 250 & 75 TR 6.
>
>Ps...My 76 Porsche Targa (36K original miles and all stock) will
>absolutely DUST anything above including my 66 Corvette 427/425 and it
>has A/C.
>
_________________________________________________________________
from a better family, but Jane was a lot more fun on a date.;-) SM
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 17:46:09 EST
Subject: Big Healey vs TR6
Scott McPherson
BN4 Longbridge
500 SEC
380 SEC
From GSFuqua1 at aol.com
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 18:17:02 EST
Subject: Re: Big Healey vs TR6
From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 17:25:08 -0600
Subject: Cloth or PVC Wiring Harness???
I seem to remember that the later cars used PVC and I am not sure if that
was due to it being cheaper, or it becoming available and being a better
solution.
Thanks
Patton
-------------------------------------
Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
1957 Austin-Healey BN4
Website http://www.austin-healeys.com/
For Sale - 1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 18:33:41 EST
Subject: Toyota Gearbox Specifications
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
Wxx Gearbox Specifications
From "Austrheamgafun at arczip.com" <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 18:53:41 -0500
Subject: Re: Big Healey vs TR6: Triumph wins, no contest!
Being a TR guy "and" a Healely guy, I decided to hold back on my musings on
this list/subject, but I'll go ahead anyway. The TR6's and GT6 that I've
owned and driven a lot in the past have been wonderful cars. The
TR-6-cylinder engine is a real sweetheart of a smooth running engine. With
the same bore but shorter stroke, the GT6 was even smoother and was a real
hoot to drive due to its nimble handling and more than willing performance.
Both are very long-legged cars, and can wind the rev's with the best of
them. The Laycock de Normanvilleoverdrive puts both of them over the edge.
I once pulled up next to a group of Harley riders at a stop light while
taking a pleasure drive in my TR6. They looked over at me while reving their
engines and seemed to be in the mood for some competition. The light turned
green, I quickly sped ahead of them, and even though I didn't win the race
at the end, I could tell by the looks on their faces, they were
impressed......and surprised.
Now to compare the two (TR6 and big Healey)? I sold my TR6 partly to help
pay for the restoration of my BN4, and I haven't looked back since.....The
Healey has obviously taken my enthusiasm by storm, and I am more than happy
with its performance. In fact, the next car I buy to park next to my BN4 and
TR3A will be a Healey of some kind. It's not only the performance, but the
entire package. The Healey and TR are two entirely different cars. It all
depends on individual tastes. They are both great British cars in their own
right.
Scott Helms
www.britishcarweek.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid@hotmail.com>
To: <GSFuqua1@aol.com>; <glemon@neb.rr.com>;
<dmasucci@radiantsoundworks.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 18, 2004 4:21 PM
Subject: Re: Big Healey vs TR6: Triumph wins, no contest!
> My collection and experience can't match Gary's, but I did own a TR6 for a
> year or two some years ago. I liked it quite a bit, and the exhaust note
> was really nice, too. It was reasonably comfortable and civilized and
very
> fun to drive, but somehow... The ride always felt too spongy for my taste,
> and the suspension was reasonably fresh.
>
> It's almost as if the relative "crudeness" of a big Healey makes you feel
> more in charge and more directly experiencing the road. When I shift a
> Healey, I feel metal on metal; when I shifted the TR6, I felt Teflon on
> plastic. When I depress the accelerator in the Healey, I feel the
throttle
> return springs; when I depress the accelerator in the TR6, I felt the gas
> pedal return spring. When I turn the Healey's steering wheel, I feel
tires
> turning on the road; when I turn the TR6 steering wheel, the resulting
turn
> seems almost coincidental.
>
> Does this make any sense, or am I so prejudiced in favor of Healeys that I
> subconscienously credit it with virtues it doesn't have?
>
> Reid
>
> Reid Trummel
> Portland, Oregon
> 100, 100M, Bugeye, Ski-Master
> >
> >From: GSFuqua1@aol.com
> >Reply-To: GSFuqua1@aol.com
> >To: glemon@neb.rr.com, dmasucci@radiantsoundworks.com,
> >healeys@autox.team.net
> >Subject: Re: Big Healey vs TR6: Triumph wins, no contest!
> >Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 15:07:30 EST
> >
> >OK, can't resist any longer. I have models of both of these cars
> >(including
> >their younger sibling) They all have their unique strong and weak
points.
> >I
> >think comparing them is truly a subjective opinion matter. Frankly, I
like
> >them all but let's not forget that there were a LOT more Triumphs
produced
> >and
> >sold than Healeys. That does tend to have some affect on market price.
> >
> >Having said all this if I had to choose one car (and didn't have to
> >consider
> >my wife being along with me) there is nothing like the BN2. It will eat
my
> >TR
> >3B for lunch (both are stock) and is so much fun to toss around the
curves
> >in
> >the Ozarks. If my wife is with me then we take the TR 6 because of the
> >heat
> >issues with the Big Healey. She loves the look of the Healey but prefers
> >to
> >comfort of the 6. As I said, I don't care about the heat. I just love
> >driving
> >the cars.
> >
> >Cheers,
> >
> >Gary Fuqua
> >Branson, Missouri
> >56 BN2, 59 Bugeye, 67 3000 Mk III, 62 TR 3B (x2), 68 TR 250 & 75 TR 6.
> >
> >Ps...My 76 Porsche Targa (36K original miles and all stock) will
absolutely
> >DUST anything above including my 66 Corvette 427/425 and it has A/C.
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 20:28:55 -0500
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump Problem
The fuel pump will run unitl it reaches operating pressure where it will
become an occasional click. This is normal. It should not keep pumping
until cranking.
I suggest that you look elsewhere for your nonstarting problem. Check spark
plugs and points for pitting and gap. Then look at the timing. If you use
a timing light the 6 degrees BTDC equates to the mark around 5/8 inch before
the pointer.
Keith Pennell
> When I try to start my BJ7 my fuel pump will pop very fast for a moment
> then fade out to nothing. Of course, after that my car will not start.
> If I am not mistaken the fuel pump is supposed to pop until you crank
> the car. Does this mean the fuel pump has gone out on me? Any
> suggestions on how to fix this would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Win Graham
> 63 BJ7
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 20:35:27 -0500
Subject: Cloth or PVC Wiring Harness???
> I am planning on replacing the wiring harness when I pull the engine. I
> know that the cloth was original on my car, but is it better than PVC?
>
> I seem to remember that the later cars used PVC and I am not sure if that
> was due to it being cheaper, or it becoming available and being a better
> solution.
>
> Thanks
> Patton
>
> -------------------------------------
> Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
> 1957 Austin-Healey BN4
From "Neal Grotenhuis" <grotenhuis at comcast.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 20:43:32 -0500
Subject: RE: Big Healey vs TR6
That said, I sold both TRs, and still have the Healey.
Neal G. '61 BT7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Jorge Garcia
Sent: Friday, January 16, 2004 4:06 PM
To: Austin Healey
Subject: Big Healey vs TR6
I have noticed over the last few months several TR6 for sale in my part of
the world - Houston, TX - for under $6k with some in the $2k area. I have
never driven a Triumph and was wondering how the TR6 compares to the big
Healeys in terms of handling, acceleration, stopping, reliability,
rust...etc.
If any of you have owned a TR6 and obviously a big Healey, why else would
you be in this list, please send me your comments.
Thanks
Jorge
'65 BJ8
From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 20:46:09 -0500
Subject: Re:Singapore Help Needed (not Healey related)
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 20:51:52 EST
Subject: Re: Toyota Gearbox Specifications
> Something is amiss with you suggested web address
> Perry
Several folks said they could not get there thru the link--here is the site
address that works just fine for me:
http://www4.tpgi.com.au/users/loats/technical/ma61/gearboxes.html
Best to all--Michael
From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 22:11:08 EST
Subject: Re: a cautionary tale
Go to your feedback listing on eBay, get the seller's eBay name and use the
"contact an eBay member" feature to try and rectify the mistake.
Steve
In a message dated 1/18/2004 1:50:35 PM Pacific Standard Time,
acmiller@mhcable.com writes:
> Last spring I bought a tested 100-4 cylinder head off EBAY,....
>
> ....Unfortunately, the shipping label is gone, so there's no way to rectify
> the
> situation. I 've lost the name of the seller.
From "Roy Bowman" <ei_timo415 at earthlink.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 23:42:26 -0500
Subject: Lucas Fog/Driving Lamps
Most of the bulbs for SFTs/SLRs are clear bulbs.
However, there were also amber colored bulbs made.
In what situations or with which lamps were amber bulbs
to be used ?
Roy
Roy Bowman
ei_timo415@earthlink.net
Why Wait? Move to EarthLink.
From "Craig and Sue Rice" <craigsuerice at iquest.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2004 00:18:55 -0500
Subject: Fuel Tank Restoration
Tank #1 exterior has two areas of heavy rust, which will be cut out & weld
repaired with a flush patch. All three baffles are OK.
Tank #2 exterior is in very good condition - light rust. The previous owner
removed the lower section of the tank & soldered flat sheet metal in its place
with no drain plug. I will get all my measurements from tank #1 and fabricate
a new bottom tank section and center baffle. Since I'm building to OEM
configuration, I need a brass drain plug boss with the correct British
straight threads to braze into this new bottom section. Plugs are available
from many sources, but the bosses are not.
I do not want to install a SAE boss & plug. I want to stay with British
threads to keep the tank assembly OEM. Does anyone have an old rusted out
tank with a useable brass boss & plug? All = inch diameter plugs were the
same for all Healeys, BN1 through BJ8.
Craig Rice
54 BN1
56 BN2
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 21:33:02 -0800
Subject: Yikes, Just what am I in for ?!?!?!?!?!?!?
And the multi car stables some of you guys have...
And the obvious drift toward more than one Healey and less of the others...
In the past few years I sold the Consul Capri, and two Triumph Spitfires.
In the past I had a box Sprite, a Bugeye, an MGB, and a Cortina GT.
Keeping the motor pool down to just one Brit car is difficult. But with
all the talk of owning more than one Healey, should I just resign myself
to this fate?
Brian N.
ONE BT7 (fairly new to the Healey game)
PS: The 65 Spitfire was a case of more with less over all the other
cars. Especially the way I built it. Until the BT7. The Healey is
just More with More.
From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2004 07:13:38 -0500
Subject: RE: Lucas Fog/Driving Lamps
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Roy Bowman
Sent: Sunday, January 18, 2004 11:42 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Lucas Fog/Driving Lamps
The Lucas SLR and SFT lamps from the 50s and 60s
were made with clear lenses and also with amber
lenses.
Most of the bulbs for SFTs/SLRs are clear bulbs.
However, there were also amber colored bulbs made.
In what situations or with which lamps were amber bulbs
to be used ?
Roy
From Rick Neville <healeyrick at yahoo.com>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2004 06:05:56 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Yikes, Just what am I in for ?!?!?!?!?!?!?
While polygamy is frowned upon by the law, it is
generally encouraged, if not downright mandatory, in
the Healey community. Unfortunately, your spouse may
have the same reaction to procuring a second Healey as
she might to your suggestion of bringing another woman
into the household ;-)
Happy Healeying,
Rick
BJ7, AN5, Jamaican-Healey (supposedly on the
transporter but I'll believe it when I see it)
--- Brian N <brian@beachcitygas.com> wrote:
> All this talk about Triumph vs Healey...
>
> And the multi car stables some of you guys have...
>
> And the obvious drift toward more than one Healey
> and less of the others...
>
> In the past few years I sold the Consul Capri, and
> two Triumph Spitfires.
>
> In the past I had a box Sprite, a Bugeye, an MGB,
> and a Cortina GT.
>
> Keeping the motor pool down to just one Brit car is
> difficult. But with
> all the talk of owning more than one Healey, should
> I just resign myself
> to this fate?
>
> Brian N.
> ONE BT7 (fairly new to the Healey game)
>
> PS: The 65 Spitfire was a case of more with less
> over all the other
> cars. Especially the way I built it. Until the
> BT7. The Healey is
> just More with More.
>
>
__________________________________
Yahoo! Hotjobs: Enter the "Signing Bonus" Sweepstakes
http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/signingbonus
From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2004 10:01:05 -0600
Subject: FW: Big Healey vs TR6: Triumph wins, no contest!
-----Original Message-----
From: Brashear, Jack, N
Sent: Monday, January 19, 2004 9:56 AM
To: 'Austrheamgafun@arczip.com'; Reid Trummel
Cc: Healeys
Subject: RE: Big Healey vs TR6: Triumph wins, no contest!
Hi All, I love Healeys as evidenced by owning the same BT7 Mk2 since
new, 41 years or so. But I love most LBC's in general, including TR's.
I probably would have owned a TR4 or TR6 thru the years except for one
little thing: I'm not a fat boy but I do have wide shoulders and the
tops of the TR4-6 doors push me off balance toward the center of the
car...very uncomfortable for me. I can see, however, for more
narrow-shouldered drivers, how these fine cars are very appealing.
Nevertheless, I'm a Healey guy....always was....always will be...
Jack
From "Tim Davis" <tld6008 at mchsi.com>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2004 10:14:12 -0600
Subject: Re: Screwed
Tim Davis BN7
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 17, 2004 4:16 PM
Subject: Screwed
> Anybody got a way to remove the large screws that attach the door
> hinges to the scuttle side panel? Have tried an impact screwdriver
> and an impact wrench (only have a 3/8"). They're sealed by paint, so
> I can't get penetrating oil in there.
>
> I'll even take Ed's advice ;)
>
>
> bs
> ********************************************
> Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
> '67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
> ********************************************
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2004 12:32:41 -0500
Subject: Re: Fuel Tank Restoration
Just my 2 cents, Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "Craig and Sue Rice" <craigsuerice@iquest.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 19, 2004 12:18 AM
Subject: Fuel Tank Restoration
> I am the process of rebuilding two original BN1/2 fuel tanks. Both have
very
> good interiors with very minor rust.
>
>
>
> Tank #1 exterior has two areas of heavy rust, which will be cut out & weld
> repaired with a flush patch. All three baffles are OK.
>
>
>
> Tank #2 exterior is in very good condition - light rust. The previous
owner
> removed the lower section of the tank & soldered flat sheet metal in its
place
> with no drain plug. I will get all my measurements from tank #1 and
fabricate
> a new bottom tank section and center baffle. Since I'm building to OEM
> configuration, I need a brass drain plug boss with the correct British
> straight threads to braze into this new bottom section. Plugs are
available
> from many sources, but the bosses are not.
>
>
>
> I do not want to install a SAE boss & plug. I want to stay with British
> threads to keep the tank assembly OEM. Does anyone have an old rusted out
> tank with a useable brass boss & plug? All = inch diameter plugs were the
> same for all Healeys, BN1 through BJ8.
>
> Craig Rice
> 54 BN1
> 56 BN2
From Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2004 09:52:13 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Big Healey (BJ8) vs TR6 - THANKS
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Hotjobs: Enter the "Signing Bonus" Sweepstakes
From "Rick" <webmasterrick at comcast.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2004 11:00:07 -0600
Subject: Re: Screwed
"
<<correct phillips insert size,>>
They are NOT Phillips, guys!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Using a Phillips driver in a PoziDriv fastener ruins BOTH the fastener AND
the tool!!
Per Moment/Anderson Page161 under Doors and Door Latches:
"The doors were hung with two heavy-duty aluminum hinges screwed to the
door hinge pillar on the chassis with heavy-duty flat-head PoziDriv screws."
Under Various Articles on my site is an explaination of the two types
authored by Norman Nock.
READ it please!!
Ed
'63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)
Founding Member & Delegate, ILLINI Chapter-AHCA (24+ years)
Member & Tech Contact, AHCUSA
Ed Kaler, Proprietor
" Just Brits "
Please visit my web site at:
www.justbrits.com
"
Just a note from me. Ed has demonstrated both to me and explained how/why
the items are ruined. It IS true!
Rick
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2004 11:12:33 -0800
Subject: Lucas coil numbers???
The numbers read:
HP 12
45212B
28 71
Does this mean anything important? Is it suitable to retain as a trunk
spare in the Healey (assuming it tests ok first)?
New standard Lucas coils are only thrity bucks or so. Unless this is
something special I wont' bother Ebaying it out.
Brian N
'60 BT7
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2004 14:35:45 -0500
Subject: Re: Fuel Tank Restoration
Subject: Re: Fuel Tank Restoration
> Hey Craig,
> A real thumbs up for your "tough love" for wanting to keep the
> original tanks. Buuuuuut with all the opportunities to buy a brand new
> unit for a very reasonable rate I think that all the hard work and labor
> would be better spent towards some other area of the car. There have
been
> NEW TANKS( "buy now" auctions so you don't have to bid, just buy it.) sold
> on ebay in the past couple of months very reasonably. And even if the
> nozzles aren't correct then you could switch. At least you know that the
> rest of the tank is in very sound condition and will last the life of the
> car. And these have a guarantee.
> Years ago this type of job was necessary but these parts are available
> now.
>
> Just my 2 cents, Mark
From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2004 14:41:50 -0500
Subject: Re: Big Healey (BJ8) vs TR6 - THANKS
I *really* wish I hadn't sold my XK-120 MC roadster for $275 when I went on
naval active duty in 1968...
--
John Miller
From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2004 15:20:55 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Lucas coil numbers???
--- Brian N <brian@beachcitygas.com> wrote: << While conducting a reduction of
inventory on the
miscellaneous LBC parts in my garage, I ran a cross a Lucas coil. The
numbers read:
HP 12
45212B
28 71
Does this mean anything important? Is it suitable to retain as a trunk spare
in the Healey
(assuming it tests ok first)? New standard Lucas coils are only thrity bucks
or so. Unless this
is something special I wont' bother Ebaying it out. Brian N '60 BT7 >>
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
From Douglas W Flagg <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2004 15:29:14 -0500
Subject: Re: Early 100-4 Motorola Radio
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
From Douglas W Flagg <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2004 17:57:59 -0500
Subject: Re: Non-Healey Item
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
From Robert Larson <robertlarson at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2004 18:34:05 -0500
Subject: Re: Screwed
http://www.tpub.com/content/aviation/14310/css/14310_55.htm
RECESSED
Bob
Rick wrote:
> Ed says:
>
> "
> <<correct phillips insert size,>>
>
> They are NOT Phillips, guys!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>
> Using a Phillips driver in a PoziDriv fastener ruins BOTH the fastener AND
> the tool!!
>
> Per Moment/Anderson Page161 under Doors and Door Latches:
>
> "The doors were hung with two heavy-duty aluminum hinges screwed to the
> door hinge pillar on the chassis with heavy-duty flat-head PoziDriv screws."
>
> Under Various Articles on my site is an explaination of the two types
> authored by Norman Nock.
>
> READ it please!!
>
> Ed
> '63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)
> Founding Member & Delegate, ILLINI Chapter-AHCA (24+ years)
> Member & Tech Contact, AHCUSA
>
> Ed Kaler, Proprietor
> " Just Brits "
> Please visit my web site at:
> www.justbrits.com
> "
>
> Just a note from me. Ed has demonstrated both to me and explained how/why
> the items are ruined. It IS true!
>
> Rick
From Dave Carpenter <d.carpenter7 at verizon.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2004 18:37:26 -0500
Subject: Re: Fuel Tank Restoration
http://www.gas-tank.com/
Dave
From Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2004 16:01:23 -0800
Subject: fuel pump for 100-4
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2004 19:00:33 -0500
Subject: Re: Non-Healey Item
How are the "peepers" progressing?
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 19, 2004 5:57 PM
Subject: Re: Non-Healey Item
> In going through some old Healey catalogs today I came across a wholesale
> price list from MG International. It is interesting in that it includes a
> parts cross reference, a Moss # to BL # listing, and a MGB/GT parts
> catalog with factory part numbers. If you have an interest please contact
> me off the list. Thanks.
>
> Happy Healeying,
>
> Doug
From Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2004 16:25:10 -0800
Subject: Re: fuel pump for 100-4
Jonathan and Carole Quandt wrote:
> I am in need of a fuel pump for my 100-4. The car is wired positive
> ground. Can a fuel pump other than an SU be used and will hooking up
> any like spec fuel pump with the positive terminal to ground work as
> well as a pump designed for use with positive ground.Thanx, Jonathan
> Quandt
From "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson at thicko.com>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2004 19:59:15 -0600
Subject: 2000 Aston Martin DB7 Vantage Coupe
I've got a friend looking for a 2000 Aston Martin DB7 Vantage Coupe. (He's
in L.A., but open to the right car anywhere in the US). Anyone know of one
for sale?
Please contact me directly.
wsthompson@thicko.com
Thanks.
WST
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2004 23:47:08 -0500
Subject: Re: Fuel Tank Restoration
Keith Pennell
> For those not inclined to repair a tank on thier own, we took the tank
> for a '46 Ford to these guys and it came back ready to go for $150.
> Keep in mind that was a few years ago and your price may vary by size
> and labor required, etc. No financial interest , etc, etc. Just a happy
> customer wanting to share the knowledge.
>
> http://www.gas-tank.com/
>
> Dave
From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2004 23:48:43 EST
Subject: Re: Screwed ( Phillips or Pozidriv )
From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 00:27:48 -0500
Subject: drain plugs
From "Frenken, Eric" <efrenken at lctax.de>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 10:49:35 +0100
Subject: Hardtop question
having just bought a BT7 I got a question on that.
The guy who sold this car has an original works hardtop available for that car.
He's willing to sell it
with the car for 990 Euros, which is equivalent to US$ 1,240 or GBP 680. The
hardtop is in poor
condition (needs new paint, small crack in top), though it's complete and the
rear window is in
good condition.
Would you consider the price appropriate? Will one need a hardtop (I don't
think that I will be
driving the car too much in bad weather or winter) or is it just fine to have
one?
Please consider Healeys and parts to be more expensive in Europe.
Your 2 cents will highly be appreciated.
Tks.
Eric
From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 07:59:51 EST
Subject: Re: Hardtop question
> having just bought a BT7 I got a question on that.
>
> The guy who sold this car has an original works hardtop available for that
> car. He's willing to sell it
> with the car for 990 Euros, which is equivalent to US$ 1,240 or GBP 680. The
> hardtop is in poor
> condition (needs new paint, small crack in top), though it's complete and
> the rear window is in
> good condition.
>
Price seems on the slightly high side, but is it negotiable?
> Would you consider the price appropriate? Will one need a hardtop (I don't
> think that I will be
> driving the car too much in bad weather or winter) or is it just fine to
> have one?
>
I do drive mt BT7 on winter days when dry. I put my hardtop on in +/- October
and keep on until +/- April.
> Please consider Healeys and parts to be more expensive in Europe.
Well, I think they're cheaper in UK which is sometimes, but not always, part
of Europe.
>
> Your 2 cents will highly be appreciated.
>
>
Do some research re. getting the bits to retore it yourself, have it done for
you or to part exchange it for a restored one at , say, Cape. Yours will
probably be the best fit.
Simon.
From "Vink, Graham" <vinkg at fleishman.com>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 09:25:01 -0600
Subject: Big Healey vs TR6: the instigator chimes in
I think it's fine that the Healeys are being "appreciated" more (ie
rising prices - to a point, that trend helps ensure that the cars will
stay on the road, and that suppliers will continue to manufacture
replacement parts). I'm just mystified why the TR6s are worth so much
less.
And, yes, when push came to shove, I sold the TR6 and kept the BJ7 ...
-Graham
From "James Shope" <healeymanjim at JoiMail.com>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 07:30:27 -0800
Subject: wiring harness
From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 10:34:56 -0500
Subject: Barrett-Jackson
http://speedtv.com/index.php
From "Dennis Broughel" <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 11:35:00 -0500
Subject: bonnet repair
Dennis Broughel
brougheldp@earthlink.net
From CEWPlatt at aol.com
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 11:42:47 EST
Subject: BN! VIN Plate
Can someone describe the mounting location for the BN1 Plastic VIN Plate with
detail to allow me to mount one and the type of screws?
Thanks,
Clay Platt
1954 100
From LarryRPH at aol.com
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 14:19:26 EST
Subject: Re: Barrett-Jackson
From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 14:37:40 EST
Subject: Re: Hardtop question
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 11:42:53 -0800
Subject: Re: BN! VIN Plate
::Greetings,
::
::Can someone describe the mounting location for the BN1 Plastic VIN Plate with
::detail to allow me to mount one and the type of screws?
::
::Thanks,
::
::Clay Platt
::1954 100
Clay-
The plate is mounted horizontally.
Here are measurements from the original plywood backing from the panel
outboard of the driver's knee:
(these are the locations of the four screw holes)
from the top of the panel to the upper two holes:
5 inches.
from the rear side of the panel (a diagonal) to the closest upper
screw;
1 inch
from the rear side of the panel to the closest lower screw:
1/2 inch
That last measurement should be redundant but might give you a cross
check on the layout.
I tried to describe the location in a way that would 'work' for either
lhd or rhd, although I only have the panel for a lhd and don't know
for sure that rhd cars were laid out the same.
-Roland
BN1 #724
From James E Austin <ahbugeye1 at juno.com>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 14:56:04 -0500
Subject: Instrument sealing rings
Sam Austin
BJ7
From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 15:55:47 EST
Subject: Re: BN! VIN Plate
I'm also looking to locate my plate and really confused.
You have a very early car, so maybe mine is different?
To start with, I can't find any plywood backing, anywhere.
Plus the vertical distance from my two top holes to my two bottom holes is 1
5/8". What is your vertical dimension?
For reference, the right and left holes on my plate are 2 7/8" (+)
apart...yours?
Regards.
Steve
BN-1L 156610, body 3503, built 26 May 1954
In a message dated 1/20/2004 11:45:09 AM Pacific Standard Time,
rwil@sbcglobal.net writes:
> On Tue, 20 Jan 2004 11:42:47 EST, you wrote:
>
> ::Greetings,
> ::
> ::Can someone describe the mounting location for the BN1 Plastic VIN Plate
> with
> ::detail to allow me to mount one and the type of screws?
> ::
> ::Thanks,
> ::
> ::Clay Platt
> ::1954 100
>
> Clay-
> The plate is mounted horizontally.
> Here are measurements from the original plywood backing from the panel
> outboard of the driver's knee:
>
> (these are the locations of the four screw holes)
> from the top of the panel to the upper two holes:
> 5 inches.
>
> from the rear side of the panel (a diagonal) to the closest upper
> screw;
> 1 inch
>
> from the rear side of the panel to the closest lower screw:
> 1/2 inch
>
> That last measurement should be redundant but might give you a cross
> check on the layout.
>
> I tried to describe the location in a way that would 'work' for either
> lhd or rhd, although I only have the panel for a lhd and don't know
> for sure that rhd cars were laid out the same.
>
> -Roland
> BN1 #724
From Ken Mason <meditionm at netscape.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 13:16:15 -0800
Subject: Front hubs
RH BTC 108 and LH BTC 109
I have a potential replacement for the RH marked BTC 110
Is this an OK replacement? For the most part, it looks very close to
BTC 108. What might it fit?
Also I have a new front hub with numbers stamped so close to the edge
that they are not entirely readable. What I can read is B.T.B. over
xxx3LH. I suspect this hub is for an MG, but what do I know.
From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 17:08:34 -0500
Subject: RE: Instrument sealing rings
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of James E Austin
Sent: Tuesday, January 20, 2004 2:56 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Instrument sealing rings
The rubber sealing rings for my fuel gage, oil/water gage, speedometer
and tach have desegregated. I have purchased the square rings to
replace
them. There are three gaps cut into the housings that the three prongs
on the chrome outer ring mate into and turn to lock. Does the rubber
ring mount under the three prongs before it is turn to lock or does the
ring mount over the outside of the prongs. I checked the archives but
could not find information. Sorry to be so un knowledgeable: theres
another word for that.
Sam Austin
BJ7
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 15:15:02 -0800
Subject: Re: BN! VIN Plate
The question I was trying to answer was where on that panel the VIN
plate was located.
The distances I gave were measured on the plywood, from the edges of
it to the holes to mount the plate, not the dimensions of the plate.
My plate is the same size as yours. If your plate is plastic it
should go the same place as mine, so far as I know.
I hope I have answered your question.
-Roland
On Tue, 20 Jan 2004 15:55:47 EST, you wrote:
::I'm also looking to locate my plate and really confused.
::To start with, I can't find any plywood backing, anywhere.
::Plus the vertical distance from my two top holes to my two bottom holes is 1
::5/8". What is your vertical dimension?
::For reference, the right and left holes on my plate are 2 7/8" (+)
::apart...yours?
::Steve
::BN-1L 156610, body 3503, built 26 May 1954
::
::In a message dated 1/20/2004 11:45:09 AM Pacific Standard Time,
::rwil@sbcglobal.net writes:
::
::> On Tue, 20 Jan 2004 11:42:47 EST, you wrote:
::>
::> ::Greetings,
::> ::
::> ::Can someone describe the mounting location for the BN1 Plastic VIN Plate
::> with
::> ::detail to allow me to mount one and the type of screws?
::> ::
::> ::Thanks,
::> ::
::> ::Clay Platt
::> ::1954 100
::>
::> Clay-
::> The plate is mounted horizontally.
::> Here are measurements from the original plywood backing from the panel
::> outboard of the driver's knee:
::>
::> (these are the locations of the four screw holes)
::> from the top of the panel to the upper two holes:
::> 5 inches.
::>
::> from the rear side of the panel (a diagonal) to the closest upper
::> screw;
::> 1 inch
::>
::> from the rear side of the panel to the closest lower screw:
::> 1/2 inch
::>
::> That last measurement should be redundant but might give you a cross
::> check on the layout.
From "allen miller" <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 18:54:07 -0000
Subject: 32% overdrive
I had an opportunity to buy another BN2 gearbox and overdrive as a spare. The
box is #3607, and the overdrive unit is one of the specialized numbers
represent the 137th 32.4% overdrive produced. I found the serial number was
part of the run listed for BN1 in the 1956 rev. 3 parts list.
The 32.4% od is one is the highest overdrive (lowest ratio) of the three, and
is specified in the Special Equipment book for pre-factory Ms's as suitable
for use with either the low ratio axle on high speed circuits or with the
stock axle. The 32.4% setup was claimed to permit speeds of 120mph on Dunlops
(Whoahhh, Hossss!)
I had originally bought the box primarily for a spare overdrive, but now am
caught in a quandry. I was going to pop the new unit in which I had the car's
'original' box/od refurbished over the coming season, but now I wonder if I
should refrain from that. I understand this is a relatively scarce overdrive,
and also requires special machining to deal with unavailable internal gear
parts. I would appreciate all perspectives about my best option...
1. Is there a strict correspondence between box numbers and the car's
position in the chassis number sequence, or are they, as I've heard, only
roughly consistent. My car is quite aways from the 1814th BN2 chassis, and so
too is the case of the overdrive (#743). My CE is 229089. Is there any way to
tell if this is the original build gearbox/overdrive combo?
2. Were BN2 factory M's ever special ordered with a 32.4% overdrive like
listed. If I could run the spare box and the 32.4% overdrive, I'd be able to
mothball the original gear train and save the wear.
3. Assuming there is no way of establishing that the car's current gearbox
and overdrive are original (#1 above), would it be appropriate to restore the
scarcer 32.4% overdrvie first, and eventually run it in place of the more
commonplace 28%. Please do not assume I'm a speed freak. The car is being
mechanically restored for fast road use only. The actual performance benefits
at 75 mph are trivial (an engine speed drop of 50 revs). The only incentive
would to be having a relatively rare overdrive onboard.
4. Has anyone had experience with the 32.4% od? Is it reliable assuming no
worn parts?
5. Does anyone have information about vehicles on which the 32.4 was known
to be used? Ken Freese has steered me to Larry Varley's postings on Blair
Harber's car having one (http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/24.html), but I'd
love to hear about anyone else.
allen miller BN2/M
From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 20:01:54 -0500
Subject: Re: Barrett-Jackson
From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 20:33:16 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Derek Fletcher
I have just received word from Laurie Wilford, President of the AHC of Southern
Ontario, that
Derek Fletcher passed away at McMaster Hospital this afternoon. Derek was a
long term member of
the club and ran his shop in the true British tradition for many, many years.
I am sure you join
me in offering our condolences and support to Sheila and Leslie.
Derek made many friends over the years. If you would, please let others that
knew Derek know of
his passing. When I hear more I will spread the word.
--Scott Morris
Simcoe, Ontario Canada
[519] 426-7139
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 20:50:43 -0600
Subject: BN4 Dash Color?
Currently my Longbridge BN4's dash is painted to match the body color (Red).
I am painting the car Pacific Green over White with a black interior. I
have seen it referenced that Black interiors with that combination is
unusual, but some from the factory came that way.
With that combination, what color should the dash be? I was thinking the
Pacific Blue, but I saw a later car with this color combination and it had a
black dash.
Thanks
Patton
-------------------------------------
Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
1957 Austin-Healey BN4
Website http://www.austin-healeys.com/
For Sale - 1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert
From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 22:08:13 EST
Subject: Re: BN! VIN Plate
I got it figured out. I misunderstood...thought "diagonal" referred to the
1" measurement, when it really referred to the shape of the back of the panel.
Think I can draw it, don't know if the spacing will hold for other browsers:
______________________________
\
\ 5"
\
\ 1" o o
\
\ 1/2" o o
\
\
My "kick" panels are in a box somewhere, so I've been looking for that hole
pattern in the steel without success. They must have used short screws on mine
that barely made it through the plywood. Thanks to the measurements, I just
found three small marks from the screw points.
Thanks again.
Steve
In a message dated 1/20/2004 2:48:24 PM Pacific Standard Time,
richchrysler@quickclic.net writes:
> Steve,
> I'll jump into this one too.
> Yours, mine, Roland's, and Clay's should all be the same. This early plastic
> number plate began with the preproduction cars and didn't change until the
> introduction of the embossed metal plate with the unified chassis / engine
> number in August '54.
> The plywood backing Roland is refering to is the left side footwell trim
> panel. These were originally thin plywood. Edges sanded smooth and covered
> in the appropriate coloured vinyl.
> The original screws were about a #4 self tapping screw with slotted pan head
> about 1/2" long. These screws passed through the plastic I.D. plate, through
> the trim panel and on into the metal behind it. usually the rust worm didn't
> get that high up, and we should all be able to look in behing the trim panel
> (if it's not original) and see the 4 holes in the sidewall area.
> Hope this helps everyone.
> Rich Chrysler
> BN1L158893
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
> To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, January 20, 2004 3:55 PM
> Subject: Re: BN! VIN Plate
>
>
> >Hi Roland:
> >
> >I'm also looking to locate my plate and really confused.
> >
> >You have a very early car, so maybe mine is different?
> >
> >To start with, I can't find any plywood backing, anywhere.
> >
> >Plus the vertical distance from my two top holes to my two bottom holes is
> 1
> >5/8". What is your vertical dimension?
> >
> >For reference, the right and left holes on my plate are 2 7/8" (+)
> >apart...yours?
> >
> >Regards.
> >
> >Steve
> >BN-1L 156610, body 3503, built 26 May 1954
> >
> >In a message dated 1/20/2004 11:45:09 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> >rwil@sbcglobal.net writes:
> >
> >>On Tue, 20 Jan 2004 11:42:47 EST, you wrote:
> >>
> >>::Greetings,
> >>::
> >>::Can someone describe the mounting location for the BN1 Plastic VIN
> Plate
> >>with
> >>::detail to allow me to mount one and the type of screws?
> >>::
> >>::Thanks,
> >>::
> >>::Clay Platt
> >>::1954 100
> >>
> >>Clay-
> >>The plate is mounted horizontally.
> >>Here are measurements from the original plywood backing from the panel
> >>outboard of the driver's knee:
> >>
> >>(these are the locations of the four screw holes)
> >>from the top of the panel to the upper two holes:
> >>5 inches.
> >>
> >>from the rear side of the panel (a diagonal) to the closest upper
> >>screw;
> >>1 inch
> >>
> >>from the rear side of the panel to the closest lower screw:
> >>1/2 inch
> >>
> >>That last measurement should be redundant but might give you a cross
> >>check on the layout.
> >>
> >>I tried to describe the location in a way that would 'work' for either
> >>lhd or rhd, although I only have the panel for a lhd and don't know
> >>for sure that rhd cars were laid out the same.
> >>
> >>-Roland
> >>BN1 #724
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "A Gilles" <agilles@sportscarmarket.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 21:09:20 -0600
Subject: Sports Car Market Editor Martin Live on Barrett-Jackson/SPEED Channel
SCM GOLD EXCLUSIVE:
Maybach announced today that it will be making a $400,000 Maybach Type 62
available to participants in the SCM Insiders Seminar at Barrett-Jackson for
test drives and chauffeured rides. The Maybach will be on-site.
Dear SCM'er:
For the 6th year, Editor Keith Martin will be the co-host of the live broadcast
of the Barrett-Jackson auction on the SPEED Channel.
Coverage is expanded to three days this year, and consists of this (all times
are West Coast time) Thursday, January 22nd, 6 - 9 pm, Friday, 2 - 8 pm,
Saturday, 12 noon - 6 pm.
Host of the show is Bob Varsha; other commentators include Alain deCadenet,
Brock Yates, Mike Joy and Rick DeBruhl.
MEET US IN SCOTTSDALE
Auction analysts and members of the SCM staff will be in Scottsdale this
weekend and would like to meet you and be a resource for you during your
collector car shopping spree! Stop by our booth at the Barrett-Jackson auction
and say hello. We will also have analysts at the RM auction and the Russo and
Steele event, who would be glad to answer any questions you might have.
Autographed copies of Editor Martin's new book, Keith Martin on Collecting
Porsche, will be available for purchase.
--------- End Original Message ---------
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "A Gilles" <agilles@sportscarmarket.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 20:28:48 -0800
Subject: MG List (not Healey related)
TIA,
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
From Dave Carpenter <d.carpenter7 at verizon.net>
From: "A Gilles" <agilles@sportscarmarket.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 23:55:09 -0500
Subject: Re: Fuel Tank Restoration
Dave
Keith Pennell wrote:
>46 Ford???? Are their tanks more plentiful/cheaper than those for a big
>Healey?
>
>Keith Pennell
>
>
>
>
>>For those not inclined to repair a tank on thier own, we took the tank
>>for a '46 Ford to these guys and it came back ready to go for $150.
>>Keep in mind that was a few years ago and your price may vary by size
>>and labor required, etc. No financial interest , etc, etc. Just a happy
>>customer wanting to share the knowledge.
>>
>>http://www.gas-tank.com/
>>
>>Dave
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "A Gilles" <agilles@sportscarmarket.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 22:15:17 -0700
Subject: Re: MG List (not Healey related)
Go here & follow directions;
http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
It is at the bottom of every list sent email. The part that you have to
remove when you send a reply to the list.
Dave Russell
BN2
Bob Spidell wrote:
> Anybody got the sign-up info for the autox MG list?
>
> TIA,
>
> bs
> ********************************************
> Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
> '67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
> ********************************************
From John Harper <AH at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: "A Gilles" <agilles@sportscarmarket.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 08:58:50 +0000
Subject: BN1 VIN Plate
My experience is that there is no precise fitting position for these
plates. I understand that they were fitted as the very last action
before leaving the production line. They were possibly part of the
'final inspection' process and were just fitted in approximately the
same position by hand.
I have seen some cars with holes in the metal and some without so not
even the fixing method was standard.
My personal opinion is that it would be OTT to try and create a
retrospective standard for where and how this VIN plate was fitted. Just
think about it a little. If the plywood or whatever were pre-drilled the
covering material would hide this and the holes would be very difficult
to locate. To add to this it would be very difficult to hold everything
in place in such a cramped area. Those who have tried to work in the
footwells will understand. Even worse on our RHD cars.
By the way there was for a short while a metal VIN plate fitted in this
position but soon scrapped in favour of the version in the engine
compartment. I have only seen one original on car CE 219252 but a small
number of other owners have written to say that they have a plate which
looks the same. Anybody else have one?
All the best
>Thanks to all:
>
>I got it figured out. I misunderstood...thought "diagonal" referred to the
>1" measurement, when it really referred to the shape of the back of the
>panel.
>Think I can draw it, don't know if the spacing will hold for other browsers:
>
> ______________________________
> \
> \ 5"
> \
> \ 1" o o
> \
> \ 1/2" o o
> \
> \
>
>My "kick" panels are in a box somewhere, so I've been looking for that hole
>pattern in the steel without success. They must have used short screws
>on mine
>that barely made it through the plywood. Thanks to the measurements, I just
>found three small marks from the screw points.
>
>Thanks again.
>
>Steve
>
>
>
>In a message dated 1/20/2004 2:48:24 PM Pacific Standard Time,
>richchrysler@quickclic.net writes:
>
>> Steve,
>> I'll jump into this one too.
>> Yours, mine, Roland's, and Clay's should all be the same. This early plastic
>> number plate began with the preproduction cars and didn't change until the
>> introduction of the embossed metal plate with the unified chassis / engine
>> number in August '54.
>> The plywood backing Roland is refering to is the left side footwell trim
>> panel. These were originally thin plywood. Edges sanded smooth and covered
>> in the appropriate coloured vinyl.
>> The original screws were about a #4 self tapping screw with slotted pan head
>> about 1/2" long. These screws passed through the plastic I.D. plate, through
>> the trim panel and on into the metal behind it. usually the rust worm didn't
>> get that high up, and we should all be able to look in behing the trim panel
>> (if it's not original) and see the 4 holes in the sidewall area.
>> Hope this helps everyone.
>> Rich Chrysler
>> BN1L158893
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
>> To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Tuesday, January 20, 2004 3:55 PM
>> Subject: Re: BN! VIN Plate
>>
>>
>> >Hi Roland:
>> >
>> >I'm also looking to locate my plate and really confused.
>> >
>> >You have a very early car, so maybe mine is different?
>> >
>> >To start with, I can't find any plywood backing, anywhere.
>> >
>> >Plus the vertical distance from my two top holes to my two bottom holes is
>> 1
>> >5/8". What is your vertical dimension?
>> >
>> >For reference, the right and left holes on my plate are 2 7/8" (+)
>> >apart...yours?
>> >
>> >Regards.
>> >
>> >Steve
>> >BN-1L 156610, body 3503, built 26 May 1954
>> >
>> >In a message dated 1/20/2004 11:45:09 AM Pacific Standard Time,
>> >rwil@sbcglobal.net writes:
>> >
>> >>On Tue, 20 Jan 2004 11:42:47 EST, you wrote:
>> >>
>> >>::Greetings,
>> >>::
>> >>::Can someone describe the mounting location for the BN1 Plastic VIN
>> Plate
>> >>with
>> >>::detail to allow me to mount one and the type of screws?
>> >>::
>> >>::Thanks,
>> >>::
>> >>::Clay Platt
>> >>::1954 100
>> >>
>> >>Clay-
>> >>The plate is mounted horizontally.
>> >>Here are measurements from the original plywood backing from the panel
>> >>outboard of the driver's knee:
>> >>
>> >>(these are the locations of the four screw holes)
>> >>from the top of the panel to the upper two holes:
>> >>5 inches.
>> >>
>> >>from the rear side of the panel (a diagonal) to the closest upper
>> >>screw;
>> >>1 inch
>> >>
>> >>from the rear side of the panel to the closest lower screw:
>> >>1/2 inch
>> >>
>> >>That last measurement should be redundant but might give you a cross
>> >>check on the layout.
>> >>
>> >>I tried to describe the location in a way that would 'work' for either
>> >>lhd or rhd, although I only have the panel for a lhd and don't know
>> >>for sure that rhd cars were laid out the same.
>> >>
>> >>-Roland
>> >>BN1 #724
>
>
--
John Harper
From Rick Neville <healeyrick at yahoo.com>
From: "A Gilles" <agilles@sportscarmarket.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 03:32:37 -0800 (PST)
Subject: The "100s" is baaaccckkk!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6023&item=2455490023
Hoyo, commence firing!
Happy Healeying
Rick
__________________________________
From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "A Gilles" <agilles@sportscarmarket.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 07:33:12 -0500
Subject: optional BN2 shift levers
I'd like something that ranges a little more forward than the current lever,
which angled sharply backwards so as to remain at a fairly constant height
above the floor plane in all four gears, but at the expense of being a little
to far back. I've tried a BN1 lever in the socket, and it fits well, but is
angled almost straight up and thus a little too far forward. I suppose I could
heat the spare BN1 up with a torch and bend it to the desired angle in a sharp
radius located below the booty, but I'd like to investigate the alternatives.
Any ideas on the optional levers?
Allen Miller BN2/M
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 07:58:15 -0500
Subject: BN4 Dash Color?
> I was talking to my paint guy today and want to make sure of something.
>
> Currently my Longbridge BN4's dash is painted to match the body color
(Red).
> I am painting the car Pacific Green over White with a black interior. I
> have seen it referenced that Black interiors with that combination is
> unusual, but some from the factory came that way.
>
> With that combination, what color should the dash be? I was thinking the
> Pacific Blue, but I saw a later car with this color combination and it had
a
> black dash.
>
> Thanks
> Patton
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 08:15:14 -0500
Subject: Re: BN1 VIN Plate
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
To: <SMickel950@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2004 3:58 AM
Subject: BN1 VIN Plate
> To all following this thread.
>
> My experience is that there is no precise fitting position for these
> plates. I understand that they were fitted as the very last action
> before leaving the production line. They were possibly part of the
> 'final inspection' process and were just fitted in approximately the
> same position by hand.
>
> I have seen some cars with holes in the metal and some without so not
> even the fixing method was standard.
>
> My personal opinion is that it would be OTT to try and create a
> retrospective standard for where and how this VIN plate was fitted. Just
> think about it a little. If the plywood or whatever were pre-drilled the
> covering material would hide this and the holes would be very difficult
> to locate. To add to this it would be very difficult to hold everything
> in place in such a cramped area. Those who have tried to work in the
> footwells will understand. Even worse on our RHD cars.
>
> By the way there was for a short while a metal VIN plate fitted in this
> position but soon scrapped in favour of the version in the engine
> compartment. I have only seen one original on car CE 219252 but a small
> number of other owners have written to say that they have a plate which
> looks the same. Anybody else have one?
>
> All the best
>
> >Thanks to all:
> >
> >I got it figured out. I misunderstood...thought "diagonal" referred to
the
> >1" measurement, when it really referred to the shape of the back of the
> >panel.
> >Think I can draw it, don't know if the spacing will hold for other
browsers:
> >
> > ______________________________
> > \
> > \ 5"
> > \
> > \ 1" o o
> > \
> > \ 1/2" o o
> > \
> > \
> >
> >My "kick" panels are in a box somewhere, so I've been looking for that
hole
> >pattern in the steel without success. They must have used short screws
> >on mine
> >that barely made it through the plywood. Thanks to the measurements, I
just
> >found three small marks from the screw points.
> >
> >Thanks again.
> >
> >Steve
From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 07:24:58 -0600
Subject: Re: The "100s" is baaaccckkk!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Neville" <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2004 5:32 AM
Subject: The "100s" is baaaccckkk!
> If at first you don't succeed:
>
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6023&item=
2455490023
>
> Hoyo, commence firing!
>
> Happy Healeying
> Rick
From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 09:59:31 EST
Subject: Re: BN1 VIN Plate
For what it's worth, my plate appears to have been within about 1/8" of
Roland's.
Are the plates in the right footwell on the RHD cars?
Regards.
Steve
In a message dated 1/21/2004 1:02:47 AM Pacific Standard Time,
AH@jharper.demon.co.uk writes:
> To all following this thread.
>
> My experience is that there is no precise fitting position for these
> plates. I understand that they were fitted as the very last action
> before leaving the production line. They were possibly part of the
> 'final inspection' process and were just fitted in approximately the
> same position by hand.
>
> I have seen some cars with holes in the metal and some without so not
> even the fixing method was standard.
>
> My personal opinion is that it would be OTT to try and create a
> retrospective standard for where and how this VIN plate was fitted. Just
> think about it a little. If the plywood or whatever were pre-drilled the
> covering material would hide this and the holes would be very difficult
> to locate. To add to this it would be very difficult to hold everything
> in place in such a cramped area. Those who have tried to work in the
> footwells will understand. Even worse on our RHD cars.
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 07:26:16 -0800
Subject: Re: The "100s" is baaaccckkk!
Wonder if they are the same ones as before.
Hmmmm.
Brian
From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 10:27:12 -0500
Subject: Was: Big Healey vs TR6
--
Alain Giguere
BN7 Bits
From James E Austin <ahbugeye1 at juno.com>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 10:39:52 -0500
Subject: Re: Instrument sealing rings
Thanks,
Sam Austin
From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 11:05:29 -0500
Subject: Re: The "100s" is baaaccckkk!
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian N" <brian@beachcitygas.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2004 10:26 AM
Subject: Re: The "100s" is baaaccckkk!
| All the bidder's eBay ID's are blocked.
|
| Wonder if they are the same ones as before.
|
| Hmmmm.
|
| Brian
|
|
From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 10:19:40 -0600
Subject: RE: BN4 Dash Color?
As for Pacific Green itself, every car that I have been able to find a
picture (or has been sent to me) has been more of a Blue than a green.
Here are the codes that I have.
Pacific Green Mfg Code GN.9
Ditzler Code 42604 (Found on the Mini Mania Site)
ICI Code 2659 (Found on Coloramic Process, Inc's site)
Dupont GS663 (From their archivist, scanned closest match)
PPG DDL 14470 (Close, compared to original, Thanks Robert)
As for the dash, how do I cover it? Do I just need some black vinyl a good
knife and some adhesive? Also, now that I am looking at the dash with more
interest. I searched around the web last night and looked for dash
examples, I noticed the choke on the dash, my car has it under the steering
column, and there is not a hole on the dash near the ignition switch for a
choke. Am I missing something?
Thanks
Patton
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Rich C
Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2004 6:58 AM
To: Patton Dickson; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: BN4 Dash Color?
Patton,
The dash on 6 cylinder cars was never painted. It was always covered in
vinyl to match the interior colour.
Meanwhile- I'm not sure where you found the information that Pacific Green
cars ever had black interiors. This was not so unless someone at the time
ordered it special, and I'd have to see that order to believe it. Any BN4
painted with Pacific Green as the main colour would always have had "grey"
interior with dark green piping accenting the seats and armrest, and green
carpets. The "grey" is sort of a light pale mushroom colour. The top and
tonneau cover would also have been this same shade of "grey". This would
make a very pretty car. (only my and the Healey styling department's
opinion)
From "R.J. Denton" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 11:28:34 -0600
Subject: Re: The "100s" is baaaccckkk!
Doesn't it get awful tiring? What happened the old rule we were taught as kids
that went "If you have nothing nice to say, say nothing"?
If having hidden bidders was a sure sign of shilling, wouldn't Ebay stop
offering it? Did you ever think that possibly it was done as a convenience to
those who don't want to publicize that they bought the car?
You guys are getting like old ladies. Is that what Healeying is all about?
Let's get back to Healeying and stop gossipy nosey busybodies.
Bob Denton
Healeyolic wrote:
> What? Shill bidding on eBay? OMIGOSH!
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Brian N" <brian@beachcitygas.com>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2004 10:26 AM
> Subject: Re: The "100s" is baaaccckkk!
>
> | All the bidder's eBay ID's are blocked.
> |
> | Wonder if they are the same ones as before.
> |
> | Hmmmm.
> |
> | Brian
From m.brouillette at comcast.net
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 16:37:56 +0000
Subject: RE: BN4 Dash Color?
I have an early 59 BT7 and my choke is the same place as yours. I
have been told it was valid for my car. My guess is the 100-6 was the same
place...
Mike B
59 BT7
> OK, I have to rethink some things. I went back and looked and the black
> interior information and it was Florida Green, not Pacific Green. Wrong
> Coast!!! I already have a new black interior in the car, and I'm not
> changing it this time around so I guess I just left the world of correct.
>
> As for Pacific Green itself, every car that I have been able to find a
> picture (or has been sent to me) has been more of a Blue than a green.
> Here are the codes that I have.
>
> Pacific Green Mfg Code GN.9
> Ditzler Code 42604 (Found on the Mini Mania Site)
> ICI Code 2659 (Found on Coloramic Process, Inc's site)
> Dupont GS663 (From their archivist, scanned closest match)
> PPG DDL 14470 (Close, compared to original, Thanks Robert)
>
> As for the dash, how do I cover it? Do I just need some black vinyl a good
> knife and some adhesive? Also, now that I am looking at the dash with more
> interest. I searched around the web last night and looked for dash
> examples, I noticed the choke on the dash, my car has it under the steering
> column, and there is not a hole on the dash near the ignition switch for a
> choke. Am I missing something?
>
> Thanks
> Patton
From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 11:55:20 EST
Subject: Re: BN1 VIN Plate
<< By the way there was for a short while a metal VIN plate fitted in this
position but soon scrapped in favour of the version in the engine
compartment. I have only seen one original on car CE 219252 but a small
number of other owners have written to say that they have a plate which
looks the same. Anybody else have one? >>
John and All,
My car has the metal plate affixed to the footwell where the plastic plate
was originally. May car is BN1L 222664, body number 7197, built 11 January
'55.
This was done for about a 2 month period from approximately December '54
through January '55.
The metal plate is exactly the same as the ones used on the later cars and
positioned in the engine compartment. This is all described in the concours
guidelines. I have compiled a list of about a dozen documented original cars
with the metal plate in this position.
Cheers,
Curt Arndt - Chairman, Austin Healey Concours Committee
Carlsbad, CA
From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 11:05:53 -0600
Subject: Re: BN1 VIN Plate
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 12:26:59 EST
Subject: Re: BN1 VIN Plate
My car, BN1L222333, built December 1954, also came with a plate in the
footwell.
Best--Michael Oritt
From "Frenken, Eric" <efrenken at lctax.de>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 18:45:00 +0100
Subject: AW: BN4 Dash Color?
Eric
BT7
Heinsberg/Germany
OK, I have to rethink some things. I went back and looked and the black
interior information and it was Florida Green, not Pacific Green. Wrong
Coast!!! I already have a new black interior in the car, and I'm not
changing it this time around so I guess I just left the world of correct.
As for Pacific Green itself, every car that I have been able to find a
picture (or has been sent to me) has been more of a Blue than a green.
Here are the codes that I have.
Pacific Green Mfg Code GN.9
Ditzler Code 42604 (Found on the Mini Mania Site)
ICI Code 2659 (Found on Coloramic Process, Inc's site)
Dupont GS663 (From their archivist, scanned closest match)
PPG DDL 14470 (Close, compared to original, Thanks Robert)
As for the dash, how do I cover it? Do I just need some black vinyl a good
knife and some adhesive? Also, now that I am looking at the dash with more
interest. I searched around the web last night and looked for dash
examples, I noticed the choke on the dash, my car has it under the steering
column, and there is not a hole on the dash near the ignition switch for a
choke. Am I missing something?
Thanks
Patton
From "Frenken, Eric" <efrenken at lctax.de>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 18:58:57 +0100
Subject: hardtop question
Eric
BT7
Heinsberg/Germany
From rscaglione at SAFJP.gov.ar
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 15:19:25 -0300
Subject: help in finding weite pistons
"HRS......"
Can any of the list help me providing me manufacturers pistons name of
usual BJ8 piston replace parts ?
Thanks for your help
Rob
From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 10:25:48 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Fuel Tank Restoration
__________________________________
From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>; "John Harper" <100reg@jharper.demon.co.uk>;
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 12:38:16 -0600
Subject: Re: BN1 VIN Plate
> mine too! built 21Jan '55.. ...BN1L222325....body 7605 ......
> HoYo
From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 12:54:08 -0600
Subject: NOS Install - off-topic, but funny. Way too funny
> This is a classic example of "more money than brains". There are three
> pages to this thread, and you should read them all. You have to scroll to
> the bottom of the page to find the arrows to view pages 2 and 3.
>
> http://forums.s2ki.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=174075&
> perpage=25&p
>
> James J.
From "David" <dcrawfor at san.rr.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 11:02:38 -0800
Subject: Re: BN1 VIN Plate
David Crawford
San Diego
----- Original Message -----
From: Awgertoo@aol.com
To: CNAArndt@aol.com ; AH@jharper.demon.co.uk
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2004 9:26 AM
Subject: Re: BN1 VIN Plate
I> n a message dated 1/21/04 1:05:39 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> AH@jharper.demon.co.uk writes:
>
> <<By the way there was for a short while a metal VIN plate fitted in this
> position but soon scrapped in favour of the version in the engine
> compartment. I have only seen one original on car CE 219252 but a small
> number of other owners have written to say that they have a plate which
> looks the same. Anybody else have one? >>
>
My car, BN1L222333, built December 1954, also came with a plate in the
footwell.
Best--Michael Oritt
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 14:32:57 -0500
Subject: Re: optional BN2 shift levers
Just a thought
Keith Pennell
> There are two "alternative speed change levers" in the Revised June 1956
Parts
> List for the BN2. (Parts 1B 3746 and 1B 3748) in addition to the stock 1B
> 3712. Does any one know what these are? Are they shorter throws? or more
> angled up like the Bn1 shift lever?
>
> I'd like something that ranges a little more forward than the current
lever,
> which angled sharply backwards so as to remain at a fairly constant height
> above the floor plane in all four gears, but at the expense of being a
little
> to far back. I've tried a BN1 lever in the socket, and it fits well, but
is
> angled almost straight up and thus a little too far forward. I suppose I
could
> heat the spare BN1 up with a torch and bend it to the desired angle in a
sharp
> radius located below the booty, but I'd like to investigate the
alternatives.
>
> Any ideas on the optional levers?
>
> Allen Miller BN2/M
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 14:38:10 -0500
Subject: Re: Big Healey vs TR6
But considering the not too competitive nature of the big Healeys (exception
to Jim Smith, whats-his-name-out-in-Oregon, and probably some others I don't
know about) was Yates referring to the Sprites? You certainly see a ton of
them at vintage racing events.
Keith Pennell
> Just last night I tuned in to Speed Channel to Dave Despain's call-in
> show called Wind Tunnel. The guest was respected automotive
> journalist Brock Yates. The caller's question was something like :
> which vintage racer would you recommend me buying, being that I have
> a small budget? Yates' answer was : the Austin-Healey because it's
> undervalued right now and he expected it to become more sought after.
> Coming from a guy who's seen and probably driven a lot of exotica is
> positive news. This is not a negative comment on the TR6, which I
> also like. I just wouldn't spend 6 years rebuilding one.
>
> --
> Alain Giguere
> BN7 Bits
From "Mark Endicott" <mark at nashvilletn.org>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 13:39:33 -0600
Subject: Re: BN1 VIN Plate
Mark
Nashville
----- Original Message -----
Subject: Re: BN1 VIN Plate
> I> n a message dated 1/21/04 1:05:39 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> > AH@jharper.demon.co.uk writes:
> >
> > <<By the way there was for a short while a metal VIN plate fitted in
this
> > position but soon scrapped in favour of the version in the engine
> > compartment. I have only seen one original on car CE 219252 but a small
> > number of other owners have written to say that they have a plate which
> > looks the same. Anybody else have one? >>
> >
>
> My car, BN1L222333, built December 1954, also came with a plate in the
> footwell.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
From "Vink, Graham" <vinkg at fleishman.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 14:10:48 -0600
Subject: RE: NOS Install - off-topic, but funny. Way too funny
"It's been a while since i've been on this forum, and just happened to
click on this ... I won't be back for a while."
-Graham
Actually, I'm sure I did things that were close to that stupidity level
when I was younger ... but fortunately there was no Internet, then, so
at least I didn't share my mistakes with the world.
From "Vink, Graham" <vinkg at fleishman.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 14:37:57 -0600
Subject: In defense of busybodies (related to 'the 100s is baaccckk')
When I lived in a community in Washington state, there was a '60s Camaro
RS convertible that kept popping up at sales and auctions and selling at
a fairly high price (it looked great from 10 feet). Most serious
collectors knew about the car - that it was a total fabrication, pieced
together from many other cars, without a shred of authenticity, that was
being misrepresented.
Yet a new pigeon kept coming along every six months. If the Web had been
going strong then (this was about 10 years ago), a bit of public
skepticism might have saved a few people from being taken for a ride.
Personally, I think E-Bay should ban private auctions, because it makes
shill bidding too easy. The ostensible reason for private auctions is so
that bidders don't get bothered by e-mails from other people selling
cars - which I think is pretty flimsy. I believe most of us know the
"delete" button on our e-mail programs by now.
Just IMHO ...
-Graham
-----Original Message-----
From: R.J. Denton [mailto:foxriverkid@earthlink.net]
Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2004 12:29 PM
To: Healeyolic
Cc: Brian N; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: The "100s" is baaaccckkk!
I wonder if the Fiat internet group bad mouths every nice car that comes
up on Ebay too? Or the Ferrari group; or the Alfa group? I guess every
car marque group does what the Healey group does. Ya think?
Doesn't it get awful tiring? What happened the old rule we were taught
as kids that went "If you have nothing nice to say, say nothing"?
If having hidden bidders was a sure sign of shilling, wouldn't Ebay stop
offering it? Did you ever think that possibly it was done as a
convenience to those who don't want to publicize that they bought the
car?
You guys are getting like old ladies. Is that what Healeying is all
about?
Let's get back to Healeying and stop gossipy nosey busybodies.
Bob Denton
Healeyolic wrote:
> What? Shill bidding on eBay? OMIGOSH!
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Brian N" <brian@beachcitygas.com>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2004 10:26 AM
> Subject: Re: The "100s" is baaaccckkk!
>
> | All the bidder's eBay ID's are blocked.
> |
> | Wonder if they are the same ones as before.
> |
> | Hmmmm.
> |
> | Brian
From "Ron Yates" <dipstickdigest at mohaveaz.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 12:33:53 -0700
Subject: Re: The "100s" is baaaccckkk!
>>"This particular car was raced in northern California through 1957, around
late 1958 it came into the Smiley's ownership . In 1957 it raced at the
Sebring 12 hours as a special , drivers Gil Geitner and Ray Cuomo and was
entered as a "Special" . At that event it was second in class , overall
position 26th completed laps 151. Gene Smiley continued to run the car as a
Special in SCCA racing mainly in the Mid West in SCCA E Pruduction Class ,
against much stiffer competition than most Austin Healeys ever see . While
most production Austin Healys ran in H production class. "<<
He stated the car was raced in northern California and and then raced as a
"Special"at Sebring. That means that the guy who owned and raced the car at
Stockton, Calif. on March 16-17, 1957, then would have had it sent to
Warwick after the
race where DMH and company fitted the car with long nose and tail, repainted
it, shipped it to Sebring for the race on March 23, 1957, with drivers
other than the owner, then shipped it back to
Warwick, refitted standard body, repainted it, shipped it back to
Sacramento, where the owner lived, so it could be ready for it's next race
in Northern California at Santa Rosa on the 25th of May. - - - I Dont think
so. . .
>>"around late 1958 it came into the Smiley's ownership"<<
Not likely. The Northen California car was sitting in Jim Parkinson's shop
in Burbank,
California at that time and is kown to have stayed in Southern California
until 1964.
>>"racing mainly in the Mid-West in SCCA E Pruduction Class".<<
The 100S would never have been in Class E in SCCA. The car was clssified
Class D Modified in SCCA due to displacement and fewer than 100 cars
produced.
>>"most production Austin Healys ran in H production class". <<
Here again the seller didn't do his home work.. The Healeys: 100, 100-6
ran in Class D
Production until middle 1958 when they were put into Class E Production.
Never went to Class H Production. That was the domain of the Sprites.
Now. If the car he's selling is not "really the car he's selling", please
disregard the above information. Gordon Smiley may have owned a 100S and the
car that's being sold may have been Smiley's, and Smiley may have (or maybe
not) given the
seller the above information. However it's not the Northern California car
and not likely the Sebring car. That's a real stretch.
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian N" <brian@beachcitygas.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2004 8:26 AM
Subject: Re: The "100s" is baaaccckkk!
From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 15:29:56 -0600
Subject: Asbestos?? Heat Shield Material
Jack
From Slvrbulit2 at aol.com
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 16:57:33 EST
Subject: Not Healey - Old Elgin Outboard Motor
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 17:03:20 -0500
Subject: Re: BN4 Dash Color?
Yes, this sounds like the right colour, Patton.
>
> As for the dash, how do I cover it? Do I just need some black vinyl a
good
> knife and some adhesive? Also, now that I am looking at the dash with
more
> interest. I searched around the web last night and looked for dash
> examples, I noticed the choke on the dash, my car has it under the
steering
> column, and there is not a hole on the dash near the ignition switch for a
> choke. Am I missing something?
Hmmm,
Well yes, some black vinyl, a good knife, and some adhesive will do the job.
You're going to want to remove it from the car and completely strip it clean
of all old adhesive, etc. and use an excellent grade of contact cement. Then
there is choosing the right vinyl; grain, grade, etc. You might want to try
to match up the vinyl you have for the rest of the interior. The new vinyl
will have to be worked carefully into all the concave and convex contours of
the panel. Then there is the fuzzy edge capping for the bottom edge of the
dash panel. It goes on and on and somehow I don't get the feeling you are
aware of all that's entailed here.
We're here to help if you wish.
Your choke control under the dash is correct for your BN4.
Rich Chrysler
From <INSPTWO at msn.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 17:18:54 -0500
Subject: clutch
From "rjhco" <rjh at hockertlaw.us>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 16:20:56 -0600
Subject: RE: Asbestos?? Heat Shield Material
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 17:26:58 -0500
Subject: Re: Asbestos?? Heat Shield Material
I got some fibrous ceramic-looking material from a boiler supply house. It
is 1/4 thick, very light, and looks very much like the orig stuff. It even
has the impressions of the grating (on which it is dried?) It cuts with a
butcher knife or similar thingie. However, it is quite brittle and very
fond of water so must be kept dry. Around $20 for a 2 x 4 sheet which will
do all the pieces.
Keith Pennell
> Hi All, my neighbor is working right along on resto of his BN2 and he
> would like to know a source for replacing the heat shields other than
> the pre-cut pieces available from various vendors. Does anybody know of
> a health-friendly product that may be available from a home or hardware
> store (or other source) from which he can make his own shields??
> Originality is not an issue. Thanks.
>
> Jack
From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 16:25:24 -0600
Subject: RE: BN4 Dash Color?
This is a much different thing than I planned, and it looks like I will need
help on this one.
Patton
-----Original Message-----
From: Rich C [mailto:richchrysler@quickclic.net]
Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2004 4:03 PM
To: Patton Dickson; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: BN4 Dash Color?
Hmmm,
Well yes, some black vinyl, a good knife, and some adhesive will do the job.
You're going to want to remove it from the car and completely strip it clean
of all old adhesive, etc. and use an excellent grade of contact cement. Then
there is choosing the right vinyl; grain, grade, etc. You might want to try
to match up the vinyl you have for the rest of the interior. The new vinyl
will have to be worked carefully into all the concave and convex contours of
the panel. Then there is the fuzzy edge capping for the bottom edge of the
dash panel. It goes on and on and somehow I don't get the feeling you are
aware of all that's entailed here. We're here to help if you wish. Your
choke control under the dash is correct for your BN4. Rich Chrysler
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 17:35:01 -0500
Subject: Solder Q
I recently ran out of my favorite solder. I have 2 spools more but neither
one melts very well taking a LONG time to solder a connection.
One is by Alpha Metals Inc and is described as .032" diameter, WRP.1, SN60.
The other is Kester Fed.Spec and is 3/32" diameter, 40/60 alloy, rosin Flux.
What can you tell me about these solders? Why will neither of these melt in a
reasonable time? The gun has a fairly new tip.
Thanks for your help
Keith Pennell
From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 17:45:18 EST
Subject: Re: BN1 VIN Plate
Steel or plastic plate?
Regards.
Steve
In a message dated 1/21/2004 11:42:04 AM Pacific Standard Time,
mark@nashvilletn.org writes:
> BN1L150202 Dec 53 Plate in the footwell too.....
>
> Mark
> Nashville
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 17:24:22 -0600
Subject: Re: clutch
From <bighealey at charter.net>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 23:23:50 +0000
Subject: Re: In defense of busybodies (related to 'the 100s is
Cavat Emptor
>
> From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
> Date: 2004/01/21 Wed PM 08:37:57 GMT
> CC: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: In defense of busybodies (related to 'the 100s is baaccckk')
>
> I know nothing about the 100s on E-Bay that is the topic of
> conversation, but I don't think it hurts to share healthy skepticism
> about certain cars ... especially for people who are new to the hobby,
> or new to auctions and E-Bay, and don't know some of the games that can
> be played.
>
> When I lived in a community in Washington state, there was a '60s Camaro
> RS convertible that kept popping up at sales and auctions and selling at
> a fairly high price (it looked great from 10 feet). Most serious
> collectors knew about the car - that it was a total fabrication, pieced
> together from many other cars, without a shred of authenticity, that was
> being misrepresented.
>
> Yet a new pigeon kept coming along every six months. If the Web had been
> going strong then (this was about 10 years ago), a bit of public
> skepticism might have saved a few people from being taken for a ride.
>
> Personally, I think E-Bay should ban private auctions, because it makes
> shill bidding too easy. The ostensible reason for private auctions is so
> that bidders don't get bothered by e-mails from other people selling
> cars - which I think is pretty flimsy. I believe most of us know the
> "delete" button on our e-mail programs by now.
>
> Just IMHO ...
>
> -Graham
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: R.J. Denton [mailto:foxriverkid@earthlink.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2004 12:29 PM
> To: Healeyolic
> Cc: Brian N; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: The "100s" is baaaccckkk!
>
>
> I wonder if the Fiat internet group bad mouths every nice car that comes
> up on Ebay too? Or the Ferrari group; or the Alfa group? I guess every
> car marque group does what the Healey group does. Ya think?
>
> Doesn't it get awful tiring? What happened the old rule we were taught
> as kids that went "If you have nothing nice to say, say nothing"?
>
> If having hidden bidders was a sure sign of shilling, wouldn't Ebay stop
> offering it? Did you ever think that possibly it was done as a
> convenience to those who don't want to publicize that they bought the
> car?
>
> You guys are getting like old ladies. Is that what Healeying is all
> about?
>
> Let's get back to Healeying and stop gossipy nosey busybodies.
>
> Bob Denton
>
> Healeyolic wrote:
>
> > What? Shill bidding on eBay? OMIGOSH!
> >
> > John Sims, BN6
> > Aberdeen, NJ
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Brian N" <brian@beachcitygas.com>
> > Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2004 10:26 AM
> > Subject: Re: The "100s" is baaaccckkk!
> >
> > | All the bidder's eBay ID's are blocked.
> > |
> > | Wonder if they are the same ones as before.
> > |
> > | Hmmmm.
> > |
> > | Brian
From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 19:21:42 -0500
Subject: Re: BN4 Dash Color?
To give you an idea how the finished product looks, here's a picture of the
completed dash in my BN4.
http://home.nc.rr.com/mvpengineers/finished%20interiorFrame1Source1.htm
The only thing missing is the windshield washer pump (I'm still looking for
one that's correct for the early BN4s). You can barely the hole for the
pump beneath the vinyl to the right of the heater controls.
Mick VP
----- Original Message -----
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: "'Rich C'" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2004 5:25 PM
Subject: RE: BN4 Dash Color?
> Your right, I don't know what is entailed here. As you probably figured
> out, until this morning I had no idea that it should be covered at all.
The
> dash I have has been stripped bare and painted a very nice red to match
the
> current body color. I thought that I was just going to have this painted
> with the rest of the car.
>
> This is a much different thing than I planned, and it looks like I will
need
> help on this one.
>
> Patton
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rich C [mailto:richchrysler@quickclic.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2004 4:03 PM
> To: Patton Dickson; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: BN4 Dash Color?
>
> Hmmm,
> Well yes, some black vinyl, a good knife, and some adhesive will do the
job.
> You're going to want to remove it from the car and completely strip it
clean
> of all old adhesive, etc. and use an excellent grade of contact cement.
Then
> there is choosing the right vinyl; grain, grade, etc. You might want to
try
> to match up the vinyl you have for the rest of the interior. The new vinyl
> will have to be worked carefully into all the concave and convex contours
of
> the panel. Then there is the fuzzy edge capping for the bottom edge of the
> dash panel. It goes on and on and somehow I don't get the feeling you are
> aware of all that's entailed here. We're here to help if you wish. Your
> choke control under the dash is correct for your BN4. Rich Chrysler
From John Peak <redbn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 16:25:20 -0800 (PST)
Subject: 2 seater battery
---------------------------------
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 18:06:50 -0800
Subject: Re: NOS Install - off-topic, but funny. Way too funny
Keep this guy away from your car!!!!!!
From "Brad Weldon 55BN1" <healey at bradw.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 18:10:49 -0800
Subject: Re: Solder Q
My first guess is that your tip is oxidized. It should be bright and shiny.
Second guess is that your iron wattage is too low. Is your iron plugged in?
;)
Brad Weldon
55 BN1
Webmaster, Austin Healey Club USA
http://www.healey.org/
> I recently ran out of my favorite solder. I have 2 spools more but
neither
> one melts very well taking a LONG time to solder a connection.
>
> One is by Alpha Metals Inc and is described as .032" diameter, WRP.1,
SN60.
>
> The other is Kester Fed.Spec and is 3/32" diameter, 40/60 alloy, rosin
Flux.
>
> What can you tell me about these solders? Why will neither of these melt
in a
> reasonable time? The gun has a fairly new tip.
>
> Thanks for your help
> Keith Pennell
From Douglas W Flagg <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 21:50:16 -0500
Subject: Re: Solder Q
That sounds like a personal question!!
Doug
> Keith,
>
"is your iron
> plugged in?"
> ;)
________________________________________________________________
From "Tim Davis" <tld6008 at mchsi.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 21:12:41 -0600
Subject: Re: Screwed
Tim Davis BN7
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>; "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>;
"healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 19, 2004 11:00 AM
Subject: Re: Screwed
> Ed says:
>
> "
> <<correct phillips insert size,>>
>
> They are NOT Phillips, guys!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>
> Using a Phillips driver in a PoziDriv fastener ruins BOTH the fastener AND
> the tool!!
>
> Per Moment/Anderson Page161 under Doors and Door Latches:
>
> "The doors were hung with two heavy-duty aluminum hinges screwed to the
> door hinge pillar on the chassis with heavy-duty flat-head PoziDriv
screws."
>
> Under Various Articles on my site is an explaination of the two types
> authored by Norman Nock.
>
> READ it please!!
>
> Ed
> '63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)
> Founding Member & Delegate, ILLINI Chapter-AHCA (24+ years)
> Member & Tech Contact, AHCUSA
>
> Ed Kaler, Proprietor
> " Just Brits "
> Please visit my web site at:
> www.justbrits.com
> "
>
> Just a note from me. Ed has demonstrated both to me and explained how/why
> the items are ruined. It IS true!
>
> Rick
From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 22:27:15 -0500
Subject: RE: Solder Q
You can read my basic soldering tips at
http://www.trainweb.org/s-trains/FAQ/faq4.htm#solder
Perhaps that will help. Judging from the SN60 and 40/60 designations, it
sounds like you have standard "radio" solder, which should work well for
whatever electrical wiring you're doing on your Healey. The 40/60 is 40
percent lead and 60 percent tin. Interestingly, the alloy of tin and lead
melts at a lower temperature than either metal alone!
0.032 is the most popular size for radio work.
What is the wattage rating of your soldering iron? Is it a gun or an iron?
Is the tip copper or steel plated?
Cleanliness is next to godliness when it comes to soldering.
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
Amateur Radio AI2Q
http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
.-.-.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Keith Pennell
Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2004 5:35 PM
To: healey list
Subject: Solder Q
Listers,
I recently ran out of my favorite solder. I have 2 spools more but neither
one melts very well taking a LONG time to solder a connection.
One is by Alpha Metals Inc and is described as .032" diameter, WRP.1, SN60.
The other is Kester Fed.Spec and is 3/32" diameter, 40/60 alloy, rosin Flux.
What can you tell me about these solders? Why will neither of these melt in
a
reasonable time? The gun has a fairly new tip.
Thanks for your help
Keith Pennell
From "Tim Davis" <tld6008 at mchsi.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 21:33:54 -0600
Subject: Re: clutch
Tim Davis BN7
----- Original Message -----
From: <INSPTWO@msn.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2004 4:18 PM
Subject: clutch
> I have a reverse problem with the clutch. After bleeding the brake system
on
> my BJ7, suddenly I have to much pressure on the clutch pedal. The clutch
pedal
> requires way to much pressure and, with the tunnel off, I watch it
disengage
> really slowly, to a point where I can leave go of the clutch pedal and
> literally get out of the car before the rod engages the gears The pedal
has so
> much pressure that it is like hitting the brakes.
> Any suggestions or help out there?
> Bill
> BJ7
From "Tim Davis" <tld6008 at mchsi.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 21:42:12 -0600
Subject: Re: 2 seater battery
Tim Davis BN7
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Peak" <redbn7@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2004 6:25 PM
Subject: 2 seater battery
> Healey Dudes,
>
> I know this has been discussed before, but a search of the archives
produced no useful results so here goes:
>
> I need to replace the battery in my BN7. The PO installed a single 12
volt battery in place of the two 6 volts years ago, but it is very small. I
would like to stick with a single 12 volt. What is an appropriate size for
this application? I would prefer one that is reasonably close to the size
of the original 6 volt batteries. Any recommendations would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> John
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 23:18:09 -0500
Subject: Re: Asbestos?? Heat Shield Material
Don't hold me to that spelling but that is how its pronounced.
No asbestos content. Feels and looks like some type of ceramic or cement
base product.
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear@garverengineers.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2004 4:29 PM
Subject: Asbestos?? Heat Shield Material
> Hi All, my neighbor is working right along on resto of his BN2 and he
> would like to know a source for replacing the heat shields other than
> the pre-cut pieces available from various vendors. Does anybody know of
> a health-friendly product that may be available from a home or hardware
> store (or other source) from which he can make his own shields??
> Originality is not an issue. Thanks.
>
> Jack
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 21:10:03 -0800
Subject: Re: Solder Q
> Interestingly, the alloy of tin and lead
> melts at a lower temperature than either metal alone!
aka a "eutectic" mixture
Yes, I'm feeling pedantic tonight.
On that vein, anybody ever used hypereutectic pistons?
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex" <alexmm@adelphia.net>
To: "'Keith Pennell'" <pennell@cox.net>; "'healey list'"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2004 7:27 PM
Subject: RE: Solder Q
> Hi Keith:
>
> You can read my basic soldering tips at
> http://www.trainweb.org/s-trains/FAQ/faq4.htm#solder
>
> Perhaps that will help. Judging from the SN60 and 40/60 designations, it
> sounds like you have standard "radio" solder, which should work well for
> whatever electrical wiring you're doing on your Healey. The 40/60 is 40
> percent lead and 60 percent tin. Interestingly, the alloy of tin and lead
> melts at a lower temperature than either metal alone!
>
> 0.032 is the most popular size for radio work.
>
> What is the wattage rating of your soldering iron? Is it a gun or an iron?
> Is the tip copper or steel plated?
>
> Cleanliness is next to godliness when it comes to soldering.
>
> == Alex in Maine
> 1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
> Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
> Amateur Radio AI2Q
> http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
From "Jim LeBlanc" <jleblanc at midsouth.rr.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 00:07:58 -0600
Subject: RE: 32% overdrive
Best Regards,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of allen miller
Sent: Tuesday, January 20, 2004 12:54 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: 32% overdrive
We have pulled the BN2 gearbox and standard overdrive (28%) from the
100-M,
and its numbers are reasonably consistent with manufacture at the early
part
of the BN2 spectrum (Box #1814 / OD =28/1308/0000743). Car is
approximately
1000 from the beginning of BN2 production, so these serials do not
surprise
me.
I had an opportunity to buy another BN2 gearbox and overdrive as a
spare. The
box is #3607, and the overdrive unit is one of the specialized numbers
represent the 137th 32.4% overdrive produced. I found the serial number
was
part of the run listed for BN1 in the 1956 rev. 3 parts list.
The 32.4% od is one is the highest overdrive (lowest ratio) of the
three, and
is specified in the Special Equipment book for pre-factory Ms's as
suitable
for use with either the low ratio axle on high speed circuits or with
the
stock axle. The 32.4% setup was claimed to permit speeds of 120mph on
Dunlops
(Whoahhh, Hossss!)
I had originally bought the box primarily for a spare overdrive, but now
am
caught in a quandry. I was going to pop the new unit in which I had the
car's
'original' box/od refurbished over the coming season, but now I wonder
if I
should refrain from that. I understand this is a relatively scarce
overdrive,
and also requires special machining to deal with unavailable internal
gear
parts. I would appreciate all perspectives about my best option...
1. Is there a strict correspondence between box numbers and the
car's
position in the chassis number sequence, or are they, as I've heard,
only
roughly consistent. My car is quite aways from the 1814th BN2 chassis,
and so
too is the case of the overdrive (#743). My CE is 229089. Is there any
way to
tell if this is the original build gearbox/overdrive combo?
2. Were BN2 factory M's ever special ordered with a 32.4% overdrive
like
listed. If I could run the spare box and the 32.4% overdrive, I'd be
able to
mothball the original gear train and save the wear.
3. Assuming there is no way of establishing that the car's current
gearbox
and overdrive are original (#1 above), would it be appropriate to
restore the
scarcer 32.4% overdrvie first, and eventually run it in place of the
more
commonplace 28%. Please do not assume I'm a speed freak. The car is
being
mechanically restored for fast road use only. The actual performance
benefits
at 75 mph are trivial (an engine speed drop of 50 revs). The only
incentive
would to be having a relatively rare overdrive onboard.
4. Has anyone had experience with the 32.4% od? Is it reliable
assuming no
worn parts?
5. Does anyone have information about vehicles on which the 32.4 was
known
to be used? Ken Freese has steered me to Larry Varley's postings on
Blair
Harber's car having one (http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/24.html), but
I'd
love to hear about anyone else.
allen miller BN2/M
From GSFuqua1 at aol.com
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 01:35:51 EST
Subject: Re: Fw: NOS Install - off-topic, but funny. Way too funny
NOW!!!
Man, this is just TOO much. THANK YOU for sharing. I needed this.
Cheers,
Gary Fuqua
from e-bay & PayPal. Bottom line is they don't want to stir up too much stink
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 01:49:24 EST
Subject: Re: In defense of busybodies (related to 'the 100s is
Motor On!!
Gary Fuqua
From "Eckert, Josef" <Josef.Eckert at t-mobile.de>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 10:14:05 +0100
Subject: AW: AW: BN! VIN Plate
Here are the measurements from my car which is by chassis number (156598) very
close to yours. On my car the screws go through the plywood and the tin left
hand sidewall (LHD). The plate is the white plastic one. I did the measurements
in centimetres (cm) and calculated the inches afterwards.
________________________________________________________
\
\
\
\ 4.5 cm (1 3/4") o 7.25 cm (2
7/8") o
\
\ 3.5 cm (1 3/8") o 7.25 cm (2
7/8") o
\ 25.75 cm (10") (From top
of sill)
\_______________________________________________
Hope I could help.
Josef Eckert
Kvnigswinter
GERMANY
-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: SMickel950@aol.com [mailto:SMickel950@aol.com]
Gesendet am: Mittwoch, 21. Januar 2004 15:40
An: Josef.Eckert@t-mobile.de
Betreff: Re: AW: BN! VIN Plate
Thank you, Josef.
Steve
In a message dated 1/20/2004 11:31:26 PM Pacific Standard Time,
Josef.Eckert@t-mobile.de writes:
Hi Steve,
Will check on my car which Chassis Number is very close to yours. Mine is
156598, Body 3651.
I am now in my office. Will check at home and give you the answer tomorrow.
Josef Eckert
Kvnigswinter
GERMANY
From "Peter Linn" <greylinn at ozemail.com.au>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 21:06:21 +1000
Subject: Re: The "100s" is baaaccckkk!
Peter Linn
Brisbane
BN1 Ward Spl
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Neville" <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2004 9:32 PM
Subject: The "100s" is baaaccckkk!
> If at first you don't succeed:
>
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6023&item=2455490023
>
> Hoyo, commence firing!
>
> Happy Healeying
> Rick
>
> __________________________________
from the eBay auction listing instead of responding to the email direct. I
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 07:54:36 -0500
Subject: Re: In defense of busybodies (related to 'the 100s is
I contacted eBay and never heard back which is very disappointing. But after
that I decided that I could not afford to have someone else be able to
contact my bidders. Private auctions are a pain for me because I can only
see the High bidders email address. So I can't easily contact the bidders to
offer them a second chance or another item they may be interested in.
Unfortunately Shill Bidding is a part of any type of auction. I have seen it
first hand at some of the most prestigous auctions in the world. There a lot
of curtains in the back that have bid up a storm on some expensive items!!!
Do your research and don't get sucked into the fun of Bidding and Winning.
_________________________________________________________________
High-speed usersbe more efficient online with the new MSN Premium Internet
Software. http://join.msn.com/?pgmarket=en-us&page=byoa/prem&ST=1
From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 07:51:10 -0500
Subject: Re: Solder Q
In soldering guns, it's common for the electrical connection between the gun
and the tip (clamped by a pair of nuts, in the Weller design) to oxidize.
Loosen, then re-tighten the nuts.
--
John Miller, N4VU
Slingin' solder since the '50s
From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 08:21:07 -0500
Subject: Re: Asbestos?? Heat Shield Material
Is this original for BN1/BN2?
allen Miller
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear@garverengineers.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2004 4:29 PM
Subject: Asbestos?? Heat Shield Material
> Hi All, my neighbor is working right along on resto of his BN2 and he
> would like to know a source for replacing the heat shields other than
> the pre-cut pieces available from various vendors. Does anybody know of
> a health-friendly product that may be available from a home or hardware
> store (or other source) from which he can make his own shields??
> Originality is not an issue. Thanks.
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 09:19:39 -0500
Subject: Re: Solder Q
> On that vein, anybody ever used hypereutectic pistons?
>
>
> bs
From "Vink, Graham" <vinkg at fleishman.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 08:34:15 -0600
Subject: RE: Asbestos?? Heat Shield Material
It cuts pretty easily with a cutting disc mounted in a circular saw, or
I assume a metal jigsaw blade would do the job.
-Graham
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark and kathy LaPierre [mailto:mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net]
Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2004 11:18 PM
To: Brashear, Jack, N; Healey List
Subject: Re: Asbestos?? Heat Shield Material
I got this off the list a while back . HardieBacker Board, 1/4 inch
thick.
Its under layment for tile floors and is available at Home Depot. You
can cut it with a special knife that you can buy there too or I suppose
a couple of throw away heavy duty hacksaw or jigsaw blades would do.
Don't hold me to that spelling but that is how its pronounced.
No asbestos content. Feels and looks like some type of ceramic or
cement base product.
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear@garverengineers.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2004 4:29 PM
Subject: Asbestos?? Heat Shield Material
> Hi All, my neighbor is working right along on resto of his BN2 and he
> would like to know a source for replacing the heat shields other than
> the pre-cut pieces available from various vendors. Does anybody know
> of a health-friendly product that may be available from a home or
> hardware store (or other source) from which he can make his own
> shields?? Originality is not an issue. Thanks.
>
> Jack
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 09:44:26 -0500
Subject: Soldering tips
Keith Pennell
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 07:36:05 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: 32% overdrive
My early BN1 has one of the 32% overdrives on it. The
ratio is definitely appreciated at highway speeds esp.
with the 4.1 rear axle and the three speed ratios.
The only real downside of the 32% OD is it shifts
pretty hard when it engages because the step up is a
bit high... I have to imagine this one of the reasons
they switched to the 28% OD. The shift up and the
shift down in and out of OD is a little rougher than
the 28%... so if driving/shifting comfort is what you
are looking for the 28% is probably the way to go.
By the way, is it possible to put the A-type overdrive
on the back of the 4 sp sidechanger (swapping out a
few parts of course)... you may be able to do this and
the conversion will be easier??
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- allen miller <acmiller@mhcable.com> wrote:
> We have pulled the BN2 gearbox and standard
> overdrive (28%) from the 100-M,
> and its numbers are reasonably consistent with
> manufacture at the early part
> of the BN2 spectrum (Box #1814 / OD
> =28/1308/0000743). Car is approximately
> 1000 from the beginning of BN2 production, so these
> serials do not surprise
> me.
>
> I had an opportunity to buy another BN2 gearbox and
> overdrive as a spare. The
> box is #3607, and the overdrive unit is one of the
> specialized numbers
> represent the 137th 32.4% overdrive produced. I
> found the serial number was
> part of the run listed for BN1 in the 1956 rev. 3
> parts list.
>
> The 32.4% od is one is the highest overdrive (lowest
> ratio) of the three, and
> is specified in the Special Equipment book for
> pre-factory Ms's as suitable
> for use with either the low ratio axle on high
> speed circuits or with the
> stock axle. The 32.4% setup was claimed to permit
> speeds of 120mph on Dunlops
> (Whoahhh, Hossss!)
>
> I had originally bought the box primarily for a
> spare overdrive, but now am
> caught in a quandry. I was going to pop the new unit
> in which I had the car's
> 'original' box/od refurbished over the coming
> season, but now I wonder if I
> should refrain from that. I understand this is a
> relatively scarce overdrive,
> and also requires special machining to deal with
> unavailable internal gear
> parts. I would appreciate all perspectives about my
> best option...
>
> 1. Is there a strict correspondence between box
> numbers and the car's
> position in the chassis number sequence, or are
> they, as I've heard, only
> roughly consistent. My car is quite aways from the
> 1814th BN2 chassis, and so
> too is the case of the overdrive (#743). My CE is
> 229089. Is there any way to
> tell if this is the original build gearbox/overdrive
> combo?
>
> 2. Were BN2 factory M's ever special ordered with
> a 32.4% overdrive like
> listed. If I could run the spare box and the 32.4%
> overdrive, I'd be able to
> mothball the original gear train and save the wear.
>
> 3. Assuming there is no way of establishing that
> the car's current gearbox
> and overdrive are original (#1 above), would it be
> appropriate to restore the
> scarcer 32.4% overdrvie first, and eventually run it
> in place of the more
> commonplace 28%. Please do not assume I'm a speed
> freak. The car is being
> mechanically restored for fast road use only. The
> actual performance benefits
> at 75 mph are trivial (an engine speed drop of 50
> revs). The only incentive
> would to be having a relatively rare overdrive
> onboard.
>
> 4. Has anyone had experience with the 32.4% od?
> Is it reliable assuming no
> worn parts?
>
> 5. Does anyone have information about vehicles on
> which the 32.4 was known
> to be used? Ken Freese has steered me to Larry
> Varley's postings on Blair
> Harber's car having one
> (http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/24.html), but I'd
> love to hear about anyone else.
>
> allen miller BN2/M
From Jay Fishbein <type79 at ix.netcom.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 10:51:33 -0500
Subject: Re: Soldering tips
jay fishbein
wallingford, ct
http://home.ix.netcom.com/~type79/
Keith Pennell wrote:
> Thanks to all who responded to my soldering query. I plan to do some
> soldering practice today to try out the suggestions. This list is such a
> great resource!
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 07:52:46 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: e-bay
To the shock of W*mart execs, not everyone wants to
buy at the lowest possible price. Finding a small item
and waiting 6 days to bid is too much busy work when
you are trying to make a living. Besides, I have
found for commodity items (toys, bike parts, etc) you
can usually find Buy-it-now prices that are lower then
the average completed auction prices.
I realize Buy-it-now doesn't't solve passing fake
items off as authentic - Too bad our criminal justice
system is not running at Internet speed.
Dean BN7
--- bighealey@charter.net wrote:
> I was recently ripped off on eBay by a user that
> sold me a fake (non-Healey) product advertised as
> authentic. I since found out he shill bid.
__________________________________
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free web site building tool. Try it!
http://webhosting.yahoo.com/ps/sb/
From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 08:30:38 -0800
Subject: Qvalle address
From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 12:24:30 EST
Subject: Re: The "100s" is baaaccckkk!
<< 2455490023 >>
And note also that it has a datestamp, where the others do not, AND the dash
color looks a bit different. I would think that alone, absent ALL of the other
speculation constitutes fraud. While I'm at it, a tardy "well done" to my
friend Ron (Dipstick Digest) for his neat little expose.
And, FWIW, I too have had a bad experience with Ebay slapping a wrist where
they should have lopped a head. They need to clean house - when they were
struggling newbies they MAY have had to kiss the seller's butts, but no longer.
Now, IMHO, you have to begin to wonder about THEIR honesty and dedication.
Dick Hosmer
BT7L18556
From WilKo at aol.com
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 13:10:39 EST
Subject: Re: Soldering tips
Rick
San Diego
a message dated 1/22/04 6:49:59 AM, pennell@cox.net writes:
> Thanks to all who responded to my soldering query. I plan to do some
> soldering practice today to try out the suggestions. This list is such a
> great resource!
>
> Keith Pennell
From ZManDino at aol.com
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 14:02:20 EST
Subject: Two seater battery
Alex
1960 BN7 MK1
From Jay Fishbein <type79 at ix.netcom.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 13:59:04 -0500
Subject: Re: The "100s" is baaaccckkk!
They probably don't appear in the earlier pics because he acquired them
only recently.
jay fishbein
wallingford, ct
http://home.ix.netcom.com/~type79/
Peter Linn wrote:
> Just a question on this - in the close-up photo the "contemporary" race
> plates appear to be just above the grab handle on the dash, but in the wider
> shot of the car's interior they don't appear
From "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid at hotmail.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 19:18:05 +0000
Subject: RE: Qvale address
Reid Trummel
Portland, Oregon
100, 100M, Bugeye, Ski-Master
>From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
>Reply-To: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
>To: "'jensen-cars@british-steel.org'" <jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
>CC: "'healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Qvalle address
>Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 08:30:38 -0800
>
>Does anyone have current contact information for Kjell Qvalle?
>Thanks,
>Ken Freese
>74 Interceptor
>65 BJ8
>
_________________________________________________________________
Scope out the new MSN Plus Internet Software optimizes dial-up to the max!
http://join.msn.com/?pgmarket=en-us&page=byoa/plus&ST=1
From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 11:18:08 -0800
Subject: RE: The "100s" is baaaccckkk!
-----Original Message-----
From: Jay Fishbein [mailto:type79@ix.netcom.com]
Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2004 10:59 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: The "100s" is baaaccckkk!
In recent months, Mark Cooke has been furiously buying-up dash plaques
on ebay and paying extremely high prices for them. The reason is now
apparent.
They probably don't appear in the earlier pics because he acquired them
only recently.
jay fishbein
wallingford, ct
http://home.ix.netcom.com/~type79/
From GSFuqua1 at aol.com
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 16:11:08 EST
Subject: Re: The "100s" is baaaccckkk!
Thanks, Gary
From Jay Fishbein <type79 at ix.netcom.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 16:22:16 -0500
Subject: Re: The "100s" is baaaccckkk!
jay fishbein
wallingford, ct
http://home.ix.netcom.com/~type79/
GSFuqua1@aol.com wrote:
> Probably just haven't seen them but the dash (Air Box) plaque's I have
> seen on e-bay were for 100M's. Is there not a difference?
>
> Thanks, Gary
From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 16:51:17 -0500
Subject: ...more soldering info
The guy who Web-hosts my aforementioned article at
http://www.trainweb.org/s-trains/FAQ/faq4.htm#solder apparently didn't like
my reference to the name "Ersin" in my write-up, as in Ersin Multicore
solder, so he apparently edited it to "Resin Multicore" (maybe Mister Gates'
product had something to do with that error).
Anyway, if you're looking for that brand, it doesn't exist. It's Ersin,
thank you.
Also, you can find more good info on soldering at
http://www.logwell.com/tech/servtips/solder.html
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
Amateur Radio AI2Q
http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
.-.-.
From JohnbS7257 at aol.com
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 17:11:51 EST
Subject: Healey Shirt
1-800-767-0319 or casualmale.com
NFI just thought some might be interested.
John Stevens
'64 BJ8 "Ruby"
From ZManDino at aol.com
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 18:11:47 EST
Subject: Two seater battery/tray
Sorry, but I never had the original battery trays so I can't say for sure. If
I wasn't so lazy I would pull out the spare tire and open the access door to
measure the battery, but... If I remember correctly the battery measures about
8" X 10". When I installed them I bought plastic universal battery trays
from Kragens and sawed them to fit. A call to the Delco dealer would probably
get
you the size.
Alex
'60 BN7 Mk1
From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 18:36:37 -0600
Subject: Re: 2 seater battery
I took the battery tray and bent out the boxed end in back to it would fit,
and jury rigged a hold down. No prblems since, and the car turns over
faster on the starter motor since the change.
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: "John Peak" <redbn7@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2004 9:42 PM
Subject: Re: 2 seater battery
> I was told that an Interstate "MT 26" battery would fit. I need to do the
> same thing as you but have not bought the battery yet. I did call around
and
> got the dimensions which would fit into my tray. They also sell a
Universal
> Hold-Down that I was also led to believe would work with the 6V trays.
>
> Tim Davis BN7
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Peak" <redbn7@yahoo.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2004 6:25 PM
> Subject: 2 seater battery
>
>
> > Healey Dudes,
> >
> > I know this has been discussed before, but a search of the archives
> produced no useful results so here goes:
> >
> > I need to replace the battery in my BN7. The PO installed a single 12
> volt battery in place of the two 6 volts years ago, but it is very small.
I
> would like to stick with a single 12 volt. What is an appropriate size
for
> this application? I would prefer one that is reasonably close to the size
> of the original 6 volt batteries. Any recommendations would be
appreciated.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > John
> >
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 18:40:58 -0600
Subject: Re: Qvale address
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
----- Original Message -----
From: "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid@hotmail.com>
To: <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>; <jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2004 1:18 PM
Subject: RE: Qvale address
> >Does anyone have current contact information for Kjell Qvalle?
> >Thanks,
> >Ken Freese
> >74 Interceptor
> >65 BJ8
> >
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Scope out the new MSN Plus Internet Software optimizes dial-up to the
max!
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 22:07:12 -0500
Subject: Wiring Harness
Thanks in advance
Jim
From HealeyViews at aol.com
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 22:43:27 EST
Subject: Re: Qvale address 2001 info
http://www.qvaleauto.com/dealerrelease.htm
Dealers Release:
QVALE MANGUSTA TO BE FOUNDATION FOR MG ROVER SPORTS/LUXURY CAR
SAN FRANCISCO (June 19, 2001) b The Italian subsidiary of San
Francisco-based
Qvale Automotive Group today announced that it has entered into an agreement
to sell its assets to fabled British luxury and sports car manufacturer MG
Rover. Qvale employs 70 people, and manufactures the Mangusta sports car at
its
factory in Modena, Northern Italy.
The agreement reunites the Qvale name with MG, a pairing which began in 1947.
At that time, legendary importer Kjell Qvale, father of Qvale Automotive
President Bruce Qvale, introduced the MG to the Western United States, helping
to
establish Americabs love-affair with sports cars.
b This transaction benefits both companies, because it combines the design
and
engineering strengths of the Qvale Mangusta project with the financial
resources, brand recognition and production expertise of the MG Rover
Group,b
according to Qvale Automotive President Bruce Qvale.
Qvale Automotive Group, through its 13 franchise dealers, will continue to
market and sell the Mangusta in the United States. In addition, service, parts
and warranties will be provided by the dealers with the support of Qvale
Automotive Groupbs San Francisco headquarters.
Qvale Automotive Group is currently negotiating with MG Rover on a
distribution agreement for MG Roverbs newly announced X80 sports car,
tentatively
scheduled to debut in 2002.
# # # #
Qvale Contact:
Jeff Perlman: (818) 992-4353
Jperlman@jmprpublicrelations.com
From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 22:53:05 EST
Subject: Re: BN1 VIN Plate
There still seems to be a bit of confusion regarding the 100 VIN plates, so a
short synopsis.
The early 100's had a white plastic VIN plate in the drivers footwell that
denoted the chassis number and the engine number which BTW were not the same.
Additionally, "In the drivers foot well" meant that it was in the left foot
well for US bound cars and the right foot well for RHD cars, simple enough.
There was also a metal, read aluminum, chassis number plate, as Rich Chrysler
mentioned, "On the top of the right side frame rail almost below the
distributor."
This was the standard from the beginning of production until approximately
December of 1954.
Starting in late '54 and during a brief period of about 2 months from
December '54 to January of '55, both the white plastic VIN plate and the
rectangular
alloy chassis plate were deleted and replaced by the new alloy chassis plate
with the rounded ends. This also corresponded with the introduction of the
unified chassis/engine numbers. This plate was placed in the drivers foot
well,
the same as the white plastic VIN plate for this brief 2 month period and then
it was moved to the right hand side of the firewall below the alloy
body/batch plate, where it remained throughout the remainder of BN1 and BN2
production.
Exactly when the changeover occurred is not known so I would be interested to
hear from any owner of any car built in late Nov. to early Dec. '54 or late
Jan. to early Feb. of '55.
BTW the 2 holes in the top of the right frame rail where the old chassis
plate had been remained through the end of BN2 production even though the plate
was no longer there.
I hope this clears up any confusion.
Cheers,
Curt
PS I'm off for my annual Barrett-Jackson visit and will report back on all
of the happenings on Sunday. Look for me to be driving something nice
(probably an XKE) across the block on the Speed channel either Friday or
Saturday
evening, since my friend is bringing 16 cars this year.
In a message dated 1/21/04 2:49:19 PM Pacific Standard Time,
SMickel950@aol.com writes:
<< Hi Mark:
Steel or plastic plate?
Regards.
Steve >>
From Bob T <btarh2o at earthlink.net>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 22:15:10 -0600
Subject: Re: Wiring Harness
Bob Tarwater
BJ7
AH102 wrote:
>I am in need of a new Wiring Harness for my BN2 project. I would appreciate
>comments from folks who have used harnesses from Moss, VB, Surgeons, etc.
>Correct color coding, wire gage, connector quality, original appearance, etc.
>are important. Rhode Island Wiring seems to have top quality, but at more
>than twice the price of others.
>
>Thanks in advance
>
>Jim
From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 23:18:27 EST
Subject: Re: BN1 VIN Plate Correction
<< Starting in late '54 and during a brief period of about 2 months from
December '54 to January of '55, both the white plastic VIN plate and the
rectangular alloy chassis plate were deleted and replaced by the new alloy
chassis
plate with the rounded ends. This also corresponded with the introduction of
the
unified chassis/engine numbers. >>
I should have stated that:
Since the unified chassis/engine numbers started in Sep. '54, this should
indicate that the new alloy chassis plate was in the drivers foot well from
Sep.
through sometime in late Jan. or early Feb. of '55, a 6 month versus a 2 month
period. So once again, I am still looking for documentation from owners out
there.
Curt
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 00:27:27 -0500
Subject: Re: Wiring Harness
> I am in need of a new Wiring Harness for my BN2 project. I would
appreciate
> comments from folks who have used harnesses from Moss, VB, Surgeons, etc.
> Correct color coding, wire gage, connector quality, original appearance,
etc.
> are important. Rhode Island Wiring seems to have top quality, but at
more
> than twice the price of others.
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Jim
From APPRAISE11 at aol.com
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 08:11:45 EST
Subject: members in uk
i am looking for anybody in the uk that is on the list. could you please
e-mail off list at appraise11@aol.com
thanks mitch
1963 bj7
From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 07:44:12 -0800
Subject: RE: Qvale address
-----Original Message-----
From: Reid Trummel [mailto:editor_reid@hotmail.com]
Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2004 11:18 AM
To: Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com; jensen-cars@british-steel.org
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Qvale address
He is still owner-operator of British Motor Car Distributors in SF:
http://www.bmcd.com/. Or at least he was when I last corresponded with him
a few years ago. If he's not there anymore, it is likely that he has passed
away, but in any case a telephone call would reveal all.
415-776-7700
Reid Trummel
Portland, Oregon
100, 100M, Bugeye, Ski-Master
>From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
>Reply-To: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
>To: "'jensen-cars@british-steel.org'" <jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
>CC: "'healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Qvalle address
>Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 08:30:38 -0800
>
>Does anyone have current contact information for Kjell Qvalle?
>Thanks,
>Ken Freese
>74 Interceptor
>65 BJ8
>
_________________________________________________________________
Scope out the new MSN Plus Internet Software - optimizes dial-up to the max!
http://join.msn.com/?pgmarket=en-us&page=byoa/plus&ST=1
From Bob T <btarh2o at earthlink.net>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 11:16:49 -0600
Subject: Re: Wiring Harness
Rich C wrote:
>Jim,
>Go to British Wiring Services in Illinois. Much cheaper than Rhode Island,
>and they have the right stuff. We concours nuts have worked with them for
>years getting things "right" and they have been a pleasure to work with.
>Talk to Lesley. www.britishwiring.com
>They care.
>Rich Chrysler
>
>
>
>>I am in need of a new Wiring Harness for my BN2 project. I would
>>
>>
>appreciate
>
>
>>comments from folks who have used harnesses from Moss, VB, Surgeons, etc.
>>Correct color coding, wire gage, connector quality, original appearance,
>>
>>
>etc.
>
>
>>are important. Rhode Island Wiring seems to have top quality, but at
>>
>>
>more
>
>
>>than twice the price of others.
>>
>>Thanks in advance
>>
>>Jim
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 13:31:25 EST
Subject: Re: BN1 VIN Plate
> Exactly when the changeover occurred is not known so I would be interested
> to
> hear from any owner of any car built in late Nov. to early Dec. '54 or late
> Jan. to early Feb. of '55.
Curt--
My car, #222333, built 12/54 has the second variety--the alloy plate with
rounded ends, mounted in the driver's side footwell.
Best--Michael Oritt
From "Peter Linn" <greylinn at ozemail.com.au>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2004 07:34:32 +1000
Subject: BN1 gearchange
There's been a bit of chat recently about BN1 gearchanges. How's this for a
BN1 gearchange? I recently took the gearbox out of the Ward Special to fix an
oil leak, and got a first look at how it's centre gearchange is achieved. The
lever itself is pivotted on what appears to be a suspension balljoint. All
this was constructed at the time the coupe body was made in 1967! It actually
works quite well (should be better now all the slop has been taken out of the
linkage)
Peter Linn
Brisbane Australia
BN1 Ward Spl
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
MVC-014S.JPG]
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
MVC-015S.JPG]
From ZManDino at aol.com
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 20:00:16 EST
Subject: Friday fun - driving
I looked away for a couple seconds and when I looked back she was halfway
over in my lane, still working on that makeup.
As a man, I don't scare easily. But she scared me so much; I dropped my
electric shaver, which knocked the donut out of my other hand.
In all the confusion of trying to straighten out the car using my knees
against the steering wheel, it knocked my cell phone away from my ear, which
fell
into the coffee between my legs, splashed!, and burned Big Jim and the Twins,
ruined the damn phone, soaked my trousers, and disconnected an important call.
Damn women drivers ! !
Helga, BN7 MK I, "Lady Godiva"
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 20:36:55 -0500
Subject: Re: Friday fun - driving
Gotta go dig out. Now where did I put that Healey?
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: <ZManDino@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 23, 2004 8:00 PM
Subject: Friday fun - driving
> This morning on the Interstate, I looked over to my left and there was a
> woman in a brand new Cadillac doing 65 mph with her face up next to her
rear view
> mirror putting on her eyeliner.
>
> I looked away for a couple seconds and when I looked back she was halfway
> over in my lane, still working on that makeup.
>
> As a man, I don't scare easily. But she scared me so much; I dropped my
> electric shaver, which knocked the donut out of my other hand.
>
> In all the confusion of trying to straighten out the car using my knees
> against the steering wheel, it knocked my cell phone away from my ear,
which fell
> into the coffee between my legs, splashed!, and burned Big Jim and the
Twins,
> ruined the damn phone, soaked my trousers, and disconnected an important
call.
>
> Damn women drivers ! !
>
> Helga, BN7 MK I, "Lady Godiva"
From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 20:49:03 -0500
Subject: Healey in Fla
Was it a list member?
Tom
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 20:41:04 -0500
Subject: Re: BN1 gearchange
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Linn" <greylinn@ozemail.com.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 23, 2004 4:34 PM
Subject: BN1 gearchange
> G'day all
>
> There's been a bit of chat recently about BN1 gearchanges. How's this for
a
> BN1 gearchange? I recently took the gearbox out of the Ward Special to fix
an
> oil leak, and got a first look at how it's centre gearchange is achieved.
The
> lever itself is pivotted on what appears to be a suspension balljoint. All
> this was constructed at the time the coupe body was made in 1967! It
actually
> works quite well (should be better now all the slop has been taken out of
the
> linkage)
>
> Peter Linn
> Brisbane Australia
> BN1 Ward Spl
>
> [demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name
of MVC-014S.JPG]
>
> [demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name
of MVC-015S.JPG]
From ECP4UW at aol.com
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 21:05:44 EST
Subject: Unidentifyable Noise
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 18:07:55 -0800
Subject: Re: Unidentifyable Noise
From GSFuqua1 at aol.com
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 21:47:18 EST
Subject: Re: Friday fun - driving
Gary Fuqua
Branson, MO
From "Neal Grotenhuis" <grotenhuis at comcast.net>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 22:10:17 -0500
Subject: RE: Oil Pan
Before replacing, consider repair. I had the bottom cut off mine, and a new
piece of steel welded in.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Gary Williams
Sent: Friday, January 16, 2004 8:10 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Oil Pan
My BJ8 has a problem common to most big Healeys (I believe) in that the oil
pan has been crunched. I've never had the car up on a lift, so I haven't
been able to really eyeball the damage. It hasn't affected the way the car
drives or operates, but I have thought about replacing it. Anyway, my
question is this: how difficult is it to remove/replace the oil pan?
Thanks in advance.
GW
From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 22:22:39 EST
Subject: Re: Unidentifyable Noise
From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 21:40:14 -0600
Subject: Re: Unidentifyable Noise
Good Luck!
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
----- Original Message -----
From: <ECP4UW@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 23, 2004 8:05 PM
Subject: Unidentifyable Noise
> Never thought I would be asking for help world wide with a noise problem.
I
> am usually the guy others bring their cars to with problems. This is one
that
> has everyone I know buffaloed. I have just finished a frame up
restoration.
> Everything form the radiator to the rear universal is new or rebuilt
including
> a Toyota transmission. The rear end was reinstalled as original. It had
no
> problem before it was removed. The car has 50 miles on it and it makes a
grim
> noise. Sounds more like a serious tire rubbing noise than anything else.
The
> noise comes from the rear end but is most pronounced at the outer end of
the
> axles. The tires have plenty of clearance and are not rubbing.
> Here are the facts:
> -I get the noise every time I back off on the throttle. Going down hill,
> coasting to a stop, down shifting etc. Any other time;no noise.
> -The noise goes away if you disengage the clutch or shift to neutral.
> -If you put the car on jack stands and run it through the gears to
duplicate
> the noise you get no noise.
> -Oil in the differential was flushed and replaced
> Immediately one thinks of wheel bearings, ring and pinion concerns drive
> shaft balance ( had to manufacture a new shaft with the Toyota tranny) .
Can you
> rule these out because the rear end was fine before being removed and
because
> the noise is only there with a closed throttle and goes away when the
clutch
> is disengaged?
> Well, by now you can see why I am so frustrated. I hope someone has had a
> similar problem. No, I don't. I hope someone has an idea what the problem
might
> be and how to proceed.
> Thanks, Gene
> BN4
From Franck Vigneron <vigneronf at yahoo.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 19:45:36 -0800 (PST)
Subject: What is the Solenoid between carbs for?
I found the problem. There is a solenoid between my 2
carbs. And when the engine is hot all I have to do is
poke it and it does a tic tic sound and the engine
starts right up!
1. Should I change the solenoid? It is working: it is
mostly a contact problem when engine is hot. Why hot I
do not know. May be the problem is common and the
remedy is changing it. So tell me.
or 2. Can you clean or do something to it?
or 3. Is it too tight? (ie there is a screw on top of
it).
4. The car had been sitting since 1969 and I need to
spray some W40 on it.
or 5. Poking it when engine is hot is what every body
else is doing before starting their engine and I did
not know!
Or what else! May be you know.
Thank you for reading my email.
Franck
Huntington Beach CA
__________________________________
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free web site building tool. Try it!
http://webhosting.yahoo.com/ps/sb/
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 23:49:26 -0500
Subject: Re: What is the Solenoid between carbs for?
It sounds like you have the thermocarb just the same as on my BN7. They
really do work well on starting a cold engine (knock on wood) and really
don't work well with a warm engine - as they should!
The thermal switch as Moss calls it works by creating an internal ground
when the engine coolant is cold and thus completes the circuit activating
the thermocarb to provide extra fuel through the 3 tubes. When coolant is
warm the ground is broken and the thermocarb is not engaged. These thermal
swtiches are usually shot on these carb setups.
Wheat I would try is to disconnect the ground wire from the switch when the
engine is cold and see if it starts as easily as usual. Then reconnect,
start the engine, and run until warm. Shut off engine, disconnect the
ground wire again, and try to restart. This may let you know if the ground
is complete hot or cold.
You could also determine the above with an ohmmeter. Test out the switch
when cold and when hot for resistance. Low resistance in both cases will
tell you that you have a constantly working thermocarb.
There could also be a poor connection under the molded cap of the
thermocarb. Carefully take the cap off (they are no longer available!) and
check the wiring/connections.
Let me know how it goes.
Keith Pennell
> Dear All Healey Members!
> I have a 1960 BT7.
> It starts easily when cold.
> When hot it does not start anymore.
>
> I found the problem. There is a solenoid between my 2
> carbs. And when the engine is hot all I have to do is
> poke it and it does a tic tic sound and the engine
> starts right up!
>
> 1. Should I change the solenoid? It is working: it is
> mostly a contact problem when engine is hot. Why hot I
> do not know. May be the problem is common and the
> remedy is changing it. So tell me.
> or 2. Can you clean or do something to it?
> or 3. Is it too tight? (ie there is a screw on top of
> it).
> 4. The car had been sitting since 1969 and I need to
> spray some W40 on it.
> or 5. Poking it when engine is hot is what every body
> else is doing before starting their engine and I did
> not know!
>
> Or what else! May be you know.
> Thank you for reading my email.
> Franck
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2004 16:50:40 +1100
Subject: Re: Unidentifyable Noise
They weren't - I hadn't broken a wheel - the batteries - which weren't
clamped down properly (gravity location) - had shifted - and the battery
lead between the 2 x 6 volts was now rubbing on the tailshaft.
Check that the handbrake cable & battery/ battery leads/ tray are well away
from the nose of the diff, and the tailshaft - remembering that the diff
'nose' (pinion end of the pumpkin) itself tilts up and down under
acceleration/ decelleration (which is why the BJ8 has upper tramp rod
links). Look for 'shiny marks' on the pinion nose flange, tailshaft and any
cables/ lines etc above or below.
Did you change the wheels? Are there wire wheel spokes hard up against the
brake drums??? Some wheels have totally different offsets to others.
If it isn't something 'simple' like rubbing - then next step would be to
once again drain the diff oil, and check firstly that you have the correct
type of oil in there; secondly you have the correct quantity, and thirdly to
look for tell tale things like a busted bearing cage/ a piece of gear tooth
etc.
Is a brake shoe retainer spring missing?
Good luck!!
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
IMPORTANT: This email is intended for the use of the individual
addressee(s) named above and may contain information that is
confidential, privileged or unsuitable for overly sensitive persons with
no sense of humour or irrational religious or enviromental beliefs. If
you are not the intended recipient, any dissemination, distribution or
copying of this email is not authorised and would be deemed to be
both an annoyance, and an irritating social faux pas. Mate.
----- Original Message -----
From: <ECP4UW@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 24, 2004 1:05 PM
Subject: Unidentifyable Noise
> Never thought I would be asking for help world wide with a noise problem.
I
> am usually the guy others bring their cars to with problems. This is one
that
> has everyone I know buffaloed. I have just finished a frame up
restoration.
> Everything form the radiator to the rear universal is new or rebuilt
including
> a Toyota transmission. The rear end was reinstalled as original. It had
no
> problem before it was removed. The car has 50 miles on it and it makes a
grim
> noise. Sounds more like a serious tire rubbing noise than anything else.
The
> noise comes from the rear end but is most pronounced at the outer end of
the
> axles. The tires have plenty of clearance and are not rubbing.
> Here are the facts:
> -I get the noise every time I back off on the throttle. Going down hill,
> coasting to a stop, down shifting etc. Any other time;no noise.
> -The noise goes away if you disengage the clutch or shift to neutral.
> -If you put the car on jack stands and run it through the gears to
duplicate
> the noise you get no noise.
> -Oil in the differential was flushed and replaced
> Immediately one thinks of wheel bearings, ring and pinion concerns drive
> shaft balance ( had to manufacture a new shaft with the Toyota tranny) .
Can you
> rule these out because the rear end was fine before being removed and
because
> the noise is only there with a closed throttle and goes away when the
clutch
> is disengaged?
> Well, by now you can see why I am so frustrated. I hope someone has had a
> similar problem. No, I don't. I hope someone has an idea what the problem
might
> be and how to proceed.
> Thanks, Gene
> BN4
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2004 08:39:43 -0500
Subject: Re: Wiring Harness
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "AH102" <bluechipracing@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2004 10:07 PM
Subject: Wiring Harness
> I am in need of a new Wiring Harness for my BN2 project. I would
appreciate
> comments from folks who have used harnesses from Moss, VB, Surgeons, etc.
> Correct color coding, wire gage, connector quality, original appearance,
etc.
> are important. Rhode Island Wiring seems to have top quality, but at
more
> than twice the price of others.
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Jim
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 01:12:42 +1100
Subject: Happy Burns Day to the Scottish Healey Owners!!
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2004 09:19:04 -0500
Subject: Re: What is the Solenoid between carbs for?
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "Franck Vigneron" <vigneronf@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 23, 2004 10:45 PM
Subject: What is the Solenoid between carbs for?
> Dear All Healey Members!
> I have a 1960 BT7.
> It starts easily when cold.
> When hot it does not start anymore.
>
> I found the problem. There is a solenoid between my 2
> carbs. And when the engine is hot all I have to do is
> poke it and it does a tic tic sound and the engine
> starts right up!
>
> 1. Should I change the solenoid? It is working: it is
> mostly a contact problem when engine is hot. Why hot I
> do not know. May be the problem is common and the
> remedy is changing it. So tell me.
> or 2. Can you clean or do something to it?
> or 3. Is it too tight? (ie there is a screw on top of
> it).
> 4. The car had been sitting since 1969 and I need to
> spray some W40 on it.
> or 5. Poking it when engine is hot is what every body
> else is doing before starting their engine and I did
> not know!
>
> Or what else! May be you know.
> Thank you for reading my email.
> Franck
> Huntington Beach CA
From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2004 09:27:41 -0500
Subject: For sale: Austin (but not Healey)
I was just contacted via e-mail by someone who has an Austin A40 for sale. He
says it has only 2413 miles on it. If interested, let me know and I'll put
you in touch. No idea where it is located, but the e-mail address would
indicate to me that it's in Canada (sasktel.net).
Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2004 09:37:26 -0500
Subject: Re: Unidentifyable Noise
Mick
----- Original Message -----
From: <Healeyguy@aol.com>
To: <ECP4UW@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 23, 2004 10:22 PM
Subject: Re: Unidentifyable Noise
> Gene
> Just fixed a BT7 with similar symptoms (and noises) that was recently put
> together. The rear axle pinion flange was touching the emergency brake
cable just
> at the rear of the drive shaft tunnel. On acceleration and deceleration
the
> pumpkin snout bobs up and down reducing the normal clearance (usually
noted
> when the car is raised to find those bad noises) to a point that the cable
was
> pinched between flange and tunnel. After properly positioning the cable
the
> noise is gone, although the new cable looks a little worst for ware.
> Aloha
> Perry
From "Scott Willis" <ahpowered at hotmail.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2004 09:21:57 -0600
Subject: Push rod positions
Cheers,
Scott
Mashed 60 BN7
From JohnbS7257 at aol.com
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2004 10:55:54 EST
Subject: RE: Healey Shirt
John
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2004 10:55:50 EST
Subject: Friday at Barrett-Jackson
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Editor, Classic Motorsports Magazine
From "Dean" <dht at erols.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2004 11:58:28 -0500
Subject: Re: Friday at Barrett-Jackson
ringperson is an education in auction-buying you can't get anywhere else.
> In any case, one of Kurt Tanner's cars (Martin called him the "best Healey
> restorer in the country today") sold for an easy $55,000 - a Jaguar-shade
> British racing green BJ8 with chrome wires that did look quite nice.
However, my
> field man Andy Reid says there are a lot of Healeys out there, and some
real
> fright-pigs among them, so we'll see how other cars sell.
> Check out the action on Speed if you can get it. Beats the Superbowl any
day.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
> Editor, Classic Motorsports Magazine
From Joseph Smathers <healey27 at mindspring.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2004 11:57:34 -0500
Subject: Barrett-Jackson
Thanks,
Best regards, Joe
1955 100
1960 3000
From "Scott Willis" <ahpowered at hotmail.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2004 11:11:39 -0600
Subject: Re: Friday at Barrett-Jackson
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 24, 2004 9:55 AM
Subject: Friday at Barrett-Jackson
> Didn't get out to Scottsdale this year because I'm still laid-up with a
bad
> knee, but watched all six hours of the Friday action on Speed Channel.
> Unsolicited plug: If you get Speed, you gotta watch the auction (six hours
scheduled
> for this pm, check your local source for time). It beats any reality TV
I've
> seen, and also beats even being in the room because, when bidding gets
fast and
> furious between two bidders, they go to split screen, with a camera on
each
> bidder and the ringperson working that bidder. Watched a Vette go well
into six
> figures last night because two guys each wanted it. The commentators --
Brock
> Yates, Alain de Cadenet, and Keith Martin -- were almost speechless as the
> price soared well beyond reason. You just wouldn't be able to see that
if you
> were in the audience. The expressions on these guys' faces, and the work
of the
> ringperson is an education in auction-buying you can't get anywhere else.
> In any case, one of Kurt Tanner's cars (Martin called him the "best Healey
> restorer in the country today") sold for an easy $55,000 - a Jaguar-shade
> British racing green BJ8 with chrome wires that did look quite nice.
However, my
> field man Andy Reid says there are a lot of Healeys out there, and some
real
> fright-pigs among them, so we'll see how other cars sell.
> Check out the action on Speed if you can get it. Beats the Superbowl any
day.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
> Editor, Classic Motorsports Magazine
From "Mike Brouillette" <m.brouillette at comcast.net>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2004 12:21:28 -0500
Subject: RE: Friday at Barrett-Jackson
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Dean
Sent: Saturday, January 24, 2004 11:58 AM
To: Editorgary@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Friday at Barrett-Jackson
I thought it went for $65,000
ringperson is an education in auction-buying you can't get anywhere else.
> In any case, one of Kurt Tanner's cars (Martin called him the "best Healey
> restorer in the country today") sold for an easy $55,000 - a Jaguar-shade
> British racing green BJ8 with chrome wires that did look quite nice.
However, my
> field man Andy Reid says there are a lot of Healeys out there, and some
real
> fright-pigs among them, so we'll see how other cars sell.
> Check out the action on Speed if you can get it. Beats the Superbowl any
day.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
> Editor, Classic Motorsports Magazine
From RAWDAWGS at aol.com
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2004 12:30:02 EST
Subject: Barret-Jackson
If I understand correctly here are the relevant figures:
972 1958 AUSTIN-HEALEY 100-6 BN6 ROADSTERBID 39,000
2003-BJCCA
b"383 1960 AUSTIN-HEALEY 3000 MARK I 2 + 2 ROADSTERBID 36,500
2003-BJCCA
b"416 1961 AUSTIN-HEALEY 3000 MARK II BT-7 ROADSTERSOLD 32,400
2003-BJCCA
b"925 1961 AUSTIN-HEALEY 3000 MARK II ROADSTERSOLD 14,580
2003-BJCCA
b"448 1962 AUSTIN-HEALEY 3000 MARK II ROADSTERSOLD 38,880
2003-BJCCA
b"970 1963 AUSTIN-HEALEY 3000 MARK II BJ7 CONVERTIBLESOLD 43,200
2003-BJCCA
770 1965 AUSTIN-HEALEY 3000 BJ8SOLD 28,620
2003-BJCCA
b"395 1967 AUSTIN-HEALEY 3000 MARK III CONVERTIBLESOLD 57,240
Scott McPherson
Lake Charles, LA
BN4 Longbridge
From Russ Staub <bbb11489 at azboss.net>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2004 10:35:17 -0700
Subject: Re: Friday at Barrett-Jackson
>..... when bidding gets fast and furious between two bidders, they go to split
>screen, with a camera on each bidder and the ringperson working that bidder.
>Watched a Vette go well into six figures last night because two guys each
>wanted it. The commentators -- Brock
>Yates, Alain de Cadenet, and Keith Martin -- were almost speechless as the
>price soared well beyond reason.
>
Talk about speechless, I was there yesterday when a Chevy Belair
convertible went for $103K. Two guys really wanted it (one of them was
Reggie Jackson) and the adrenaline in the auctioneer's voice told it
all. Without actually saying it, you could tell even he was blown away
with the unbridled enthusiasm being shown by the bidders. Even the
audience gets drawn in to the action by the auctioneer, cheering and
clapping as the bidding just gets out of hand. Oh well, it musy be nice
to have more money than you know what do do with!
>In any case, one of Kurt Tanner's cars (Martin called him the "best Healey
>restorer in the country today") sold for an easy $55,000 - a Jaguar-shade
>British racing green BJ8 with chrome wires that did look quite nice.
>
Kurt had two BJ8's there, that I saw. A red one in addition to the BRG
one. I didn't see either sell, but they really looked well done, and
$55K for the BRG one doesn't surprise me at all.
I did see a '61 3000 go for $31K, and I thought it looked pretty good
and worth the price, at the levels seen by Healeys these days. Also saw
a '67 BJ8 go for $24K, and without a really close look beyond the
exterior (didn't get a look under the bonnet) I though this one went
higher than I would have even considered. I thought the paint job and
exterior details were typical of a quick, "get it ready for the auction
red" job.
My overall impression of yesterdays auction was "Detroit Iron" is in!
Of 222 cars listed for yesterday, 92 (or nearly 60%) were Chevys and
Fords. Lots and lots of Vettes, muscles cars, going often for out of
sight prices. A '48 Chevy Suburban for $53K, that wasn't all that perfect.
Another observation: About 95% of Fridays cars were offered at no
reserve, a complete turn-around from past auctions. I'm not really that
knowlegeable about the ins and outs of auctions, but I'd theorize that
it costs the seller less in auction fees, and I guess there's so much
money flowing these days, they don't worry about selling their car at a
give-away price.
Russ Staub
'61 Bugeye (Sparkey)
'56 BN2
'67 BJ8 (Horace)
Mesa, AZ
From RAWDAWGS at aol.com
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2004 12:33:19 EST
Subject: Barret-Jackson My bad
From Russ Staub <bbb11489 at azboss.net>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2004 10:49:41 -0700
Subject: Re: Barret-Jackson
>Heres the webpage I
>found:http://www.barrett-jackson.com/auctionresults/common/salesresults.asp?a
>uctionid=45
>
>If I understand correctly here are the relevant figures:
>972 1958 AUSTIN-HEALEY 100-6 BN6 ROADSTERBID 39,000
>2003-BJCCA
>b"383 1960 AUSTIN-HEALEY 3000 MARK I 2 + 2 ROADSTERBID 36,500
>2003-BJCCA
>b"416 1961 AUSTIN-HEALEY 3000 MARK II BT-7 ROADSTERSOLD 32,400
>2003-BJCCA
>b"925 1961 AUSTIN-HEALEY 3000 MARK II ROADSTERSOLD 14,580
>2003-BJCCA
>b"448 1962 AUSTIN-HEALEY 3000 MARK II ROADSTERSOLD 38,880
>2003-BJCCA
>b"970 1963 AUSTIN-HEALEY 3000 MARK II BJ7 CONVERTIBLESOLD 43,200
>2003-BJCCA
>770 1965 AUSTIN-HEALEY 3000 BJ8SOLD 28,620
>2003-BJCCA
>b"395 1967 AUSTIN-HEALEY 3000 MARK III CONVERTIBLESOLD 57,240
>
>
>
>
>Scott McPherson
>Lake Charles, LA
>BN4 Longbridge
>
>Scott,
>
I think these results are for last year. I may be wrong, but I don't
think they post results for the present auction until after all is over.
There were only 4 Healeys listed on the Friday auction list this year,
and as best I know, they were:
#352 1961 3000 Mark I roadster (went for $31K)
#468 1962 300 Mark II 2+2 roadster (hadn't gone to auction by the
time I left)
#361.1 1967 BJ8 (sold at $24K, and a bit high for my eye)
#451 1965 3000 Mark III BJ8 (one of Kurt Tanners 2 BJ8s', sold at $65K
and looked real good)
I think Kurt's second BJ8 was scheduled for today (Saturday).
Russ Staub
Mesa, AZ
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2004 12:49:32 EST
Subject: Re: Friday at Barrett-Jackson
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2004 09:52:48 -0800
Subject: Re: Unidentifyable Noise
John Snyder
From <bighealey at charter.net>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2004 18:37:52 +0000
Subject: Re: Re: What is the Solenoid between carbs for?
Tracy
>
> From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
> Date: 2004/01/24 Sat PM 02:19:04 GMT
> To: "Franck Vigneron" <vigneronf@yahoo.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: What is the Solenoid between carbs for?
>
> Hang in there Frankie buddy. You've come to the right place. Get your
> info from the list first before you do any tweaking. Fortunately my 60
> did not come with this "Wittle carburator". It is suppose to be a
> substitute for a manual choke. It didn't last long but thats not to say it
> can't be effective. I would guess that it can be rebuilt or maybe just a
> little cleaning and a tweak. So persevere and you will be running again
> soon.
>
> Mark
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Franck Vigneron" <vigneronf@yahoo.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, January 23, 2004 10:45 PM
> Subject: What is the Solenoid between carbs for?
>
>
> > Dear All Healey Members!
> > I have a 1960 BT7.
> > It starts easily when cold.
> > When hot it does not start anymore.
> >
> > I found the problem. There is a solenoid between my 2
> > carbs. And when the engine is hot all I have to do is
> > poke it and it does a tic tic sound and the engine
> > starts right up!
> >
> > 1. Should I change the solenoid? It is working: it is
> > mostly a contact problem when engine is hot. Why hot I
> > do not know. May be the problem is common and the
> > remedy is changing it. So tell me.
> > or 2. Can you clean or do something to it?
> > or 3. Is it too tight? (ie there is a screw on top of
> > it).
> > 4. The car had been sitting since 1969 and I need to
> > spray some W40 on it.
> > or 5. Poking it when engine is hot is what every body
> > else is doing before starting their engine and I did
> > not know!
> >
> > Or what else! May be you know.
> > Thank you for reading my email.
> > Franck
> > Huntington Beach CA
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2004 10:41:05 -0800
Subject: Re: What is the Solenoid between carbs for? Franck...Please
I have a '60 BT7 with that little cold start carb, too.
It actually works great! Make sure it is clean and all the wiring to is
is sound. They are easy to take a part. Just make sure it all goes
back together by the book. Solder and shrink wrap all the wires to
their terminals, and make sure the terminal connections are clean. A
little electrical spray cleaner before connecting is a good idea. Both
on the solenoid, and on the thermoswitch at the left front of the
cylinder head.
In good working order, these do a great job! They sound a bit like a
vacuum cleaner until they cut out a 160 degrees coolant temperature.
But that only takes about 90 seconds or so.
Also, if the three hoses running from the lower end of it to the intake
manifold are brittle, old, or suspect please replace them with good
quality high temp material. Otherwise terrible vacuum leaks can occur
which preculde proper carburetor tuning.
All the best.
Brian N
http://www.beachcitygas.com/ixora.jpg
From <bighealey at charter.net>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2004 18:37:58 +0000
Subject: Re: Re: What is the Solenoid between carbs for?
Tracy
>
> From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
> Date: 2004/01/24 Sat PM 02:19:04 GMT
> To: "Franck Vigneron" <vigneronf@yahoo.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: What is the Solenoid between carbs for?
>
> Hang in there Frankie buddy. You've come to the right place. Get your
> info from the list first before you do any tweaking. Fortunately my 60
> did not come with this "Wittle carburator". It is suppose to be a
> substitute for a manual choke. It didn't last long but thats not to say it
> can't be effective. I would guess that it can be rebuilt or maybe just a
> little cleaning and a tweak. So persevere and you will be running again
> soon.
>
> Mark
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Franck Vigneron" <vigneronf@yahoo.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, January 23, 2004 10:45 PM
> Subject: What is the Solenoid between carbs for?
>
>
> > Dear All Healey Members!
> > I have a 1960 BT7.
> > It starts easily when cold.
> > When hot it does not start anymore.
> >
> > I found the problem. There is a solenoid between my 2
> > carbs. And when the engine is hot all I have to do is
> > poke it and it does a tic tic sound and the engine
> > starts right up!
> >
> > 1. Should I change the solenoid? It is working: it is
> > mostly a contact problem when engine is hot. Why hot I
> > do not know. May be the problem is common and the
> > remedy is changing it. So tell me.
> > or 2. Can you clean or do something to it?
> > or 3. Is it too tight? (ie there is a screw on top of
> > it).
> > 4. The car had been sitting since 1969 and I need to
> > spray some W40 on it.
> > or 5. Poking it when engine is hot is what every body
> > else is doing before starting their engine and I did
> > not know!
> >
> > Or what else! May be you know.
> > Thank you for reading my email.
> > Franck
> > Huntington Beach CA
From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2004 13:43:24 -0500
Subject: Re: Friday at Barrett-Jackson
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2004 10:44:21 -0800
Subject: Re: Friday at Barrett-Jackson..Uh...Oh...
Is this what I have?
I better get to work in it. Three boxes of new parts laying about is
inexcusable. I think I spent more time on the phone to parts houses
than on the wrench.
Off the the garage...
Brian N.
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2004 14:12:17 EST
Subject: My mistake
From "Ray Juncal" <gonzo18 at mindspring.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2004 12:41:02 -0800
Subject: Filler cap for finned valvecover
From "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid at hotmail.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2004 22:02:57 +0000
Subject: RE: Friday at Barrett-Jackson
"Big Healey prices are in a free fall, down almost 20 percent from this time
last year... "
Sorry, I couldn't resist.
-- Reid "Auction Results Are Not a Reliable Market Barometer; They Are Only
a Reliable Auction Barometer" Trummel
_________________________________________________________________
Rethink your business approach for the new year with the helpful tips here.
http://special.msn.com/bcentral/prep04.armx
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2004 23:38:44 -0500
Subject: Re: What is the Solenoid between carbs for?
Guess I did not make myself too clear.
When in proper working order and a cold engine the thermal switch creates a
ground completing the circuit and the thermocarb is activated. It provides
a bit of extra fuel though the 3 hoses to the intake manifold. Once the
engine temp gets up to operating temp the ground is broken and the
thermocarb shuts off.
As I said most of the switches are permanently grounded so the thermocarb
stays activated. On my BN7 this was my problem too. The new switches list
at $100. I ran a white hot wire to a switch I mounted on the steering
column clamp under the dash. From there a white hot wire goes to the choke
at the forward terminal. A white/blue wire goes from there to the fender
well then up to the switch.
The result is a neat, correct looking setup but a manual automatic choke!
Hope this helps
Keith Pennell
> Bob,
> Thank you for your answer.
> I received another email before yours (from Keith
> Pennell) I am pasting it at the end of this email.
>
> From reading his email it seems that this solenoid
> works better when engine is cold - since it is
> supposed to work as a choke -
> Thus, if I install a switch why would I have to
> "remember to close it before cold starts otherwise you
> will be cranking all day"?
>
> Sorry! I do not understand.
> It seems to me that since it act as a choke you would
> want to switch it off after a few minutes of driving -
> and - then remember to switch it on before starting
> the car, let's say if you parked somewhere and return
> to your car when engine was back to cold.
>
> May be Mr Pennell could verify this statement too!
>
> Regards,
> Franck
>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> Franck,
>
> It sounds like you have the thermocarb just the same
> as on my BN7.
> They
> really do work well on starting a cold engine (knock
> on wood) and
> really
> don't work well with a warm engine - as they should!
>
> The thermal switch as Moss calls it works by creating
> an internal
> ground
> when the engine coolant is cold and thus completes the
> circuit
> activating
> the thermocarb to provide extra fuel through the 3
> tubes. When coolant
> is
> warm the ground is broken and the thermocarb is not
> engaged. These
> thermal
> swtiches are usually shot on these carb setups.
>
> Wheat I would try is to disconnect the ground wire
> from the switch when
> the
> engine is cold and see if it starts as easily as
> usual. Then
> reconnect,
> start the engine, and run until warm. Shut off
> engine, disconnect the
> ground wire again, and try to restart. This may let
> you know if the
> ground
> is complete hot or cold.
>
> You could also determine the above with an ohmmeter.
> Test out the
> switch
> when cold and when hot for resistance. Low resistance
> in both cases
> will
> tell you that you have a constantly working
> thermocarb.
>
> There could also be a poor connection under the molded
> cap of the
> thermocarb. Carefully take the cap off (they are no
> longer available!)
> and
> check the wiring/connections.
>
> Let me know how it goes.
> Keith Pennell
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2004 23:40:50 -0500
Subject: Re: Filler cap for finned valvecover
That may be true but it would be very difficult to add oil through the t
fitting.
Keith Pennell
> but a breather isn't necessary as the "t" fitting on the six is the
> breather.
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 01:16:50 EST
Subject: Healeys at Barrett-Jackson
> It was $65K and the guy was complaining that the car shouldn't have HD8s on
> it. "The carbs look oversized for the car"
>
Surprising comment from Alain de Cadenet, who might be expected to know
better. But there will be one Kurt Tanner Healey that was brought to B-J that
won't
be sold. This morning (I believe) during the inspection period, a Lamborghini
Countach parked across the aisle from him was left in gear when the owner,
being cool, started up the car with its remote starter. It jumped across the
aisle, and front-ended Kurt's car, pretty much totalling it. To add insult to
embarrassment, when the kid who was displaying the Lambo got in to back it off
Kurt's car, he still had it in first, so when he let out the clutch, his car
proceeded to make the damage even worse. And our reporter was on the scene and
has the whole incident in high-res digital images.
Now it gets interesting: whose insurance will wind up paying for the damage?
Did the owner have liability coverage on a car he was about to sell? Did Kurt
have adequate insurance on the Healey? Does B-J have any coverage for damage
done to cars while on the field, or even accept any responsibility?
Cheers
Gary
From Drtrite at aol.com
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 01:18:45 EST
Subject: Re: Friday at Barrett-Jackson
<< That commentator was Mike Joy, a
member of AHCA and a Bugeye racer at one time. >>
Rudy,
I looked in my AHCA membership directory and I was unable to find Mike as a
member. I guess you ment, member and racer years ago. It would be nice to
contact him and see what his interests are now.
Don
From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 00:25:00 -0600
Subject: A few quick Questions
Can I use the rocker cover bolts to pull the engine, or do I need to remove
the rocker? (while out I am not doing any work to the motor)
Also, what should I use for lifting brackets? On the Sprite I used a couple
of big washers and bolted straight to the chain but the weights are much
greater here.
Does anyone have the exact dimensions of the placement and size of the hole
for the dual washer jet for Longbridge BN4's?
Thanks
Patton
-------------------------------------
Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
1957 Austin-Healey BN4
Website http://www.austin-healeys.com/
For Sale - 1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert
From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 00:34:12 -0600
Subject: RE: Friday at Barrett-Jackson
http://www.varac.ca/Drivers/driver_MacLean.html
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Drtrite@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2004 12:19 AM
To: CAWS52803@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Friday at Barrett-Jackson
In a message dated 1/24/04 11:51:38 AM Central Standard Time,
CAWS52803@aol.com writes:
<< That commentator was Mike Joy, a
member of AHCA and a Bugeye racer at one time. >>
Rudy,
I looked in my AHCA membership directory and I was unable to find Mike as a
member. I guess you ment, member and racer years ago. It would be nice to
contact him and see what his interests are now.
Don
From "Ray Juncal" <gonzo18 at mindspring.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2004 22:55:43 -0800
Subject: Re: Filler cap for finned valvecover
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@cox.net>
To: "Ray Juncal" <gonzo18@mindspring.com>; "Healey list"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 24, 2004 8:40 PM
Subject: Re: Filler cap for finned valvecover
> Ray,
>
> That may be true but it would be very difficult to add oil through the t
> fitting.
>
> Keith Pennell
>
> > but a breather isn't necessary as the "t" fitting on the six is the
> > breather.
From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2004 19:54:53 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Replacing the handbrake button
__________________________________
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free web site building tool. Try it!
http://webhosting.yahoo.com/ps/sb/
From "Peter Hunt" <peter at hunt.sol.co.uk>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 09:10:30 -0000
Subject: Re: Happy Burns Day to the Scottish Healey Owners!!
Many thanks for your good wishes.
Peter and Ann.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 24, 2004 2:12 PM
Subject: Happy Burns Day to the Scottish Healey Owners!!
> Happy Burns Day to the Hunts, and all the other Scots on the list!!
>
> Chris
> ______________________________________
>
> Chris Dimmock
> Sydney Australia
From Bob Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 07:05:49 -0800
Subject: Re: Healeys at Barrett-Jackson
This one is between Tanner and the Lambo kid.
Bob Denton
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>In a message dated 1/24/04 12:00:41 PM, m.brouillette@comcast.net writes:
>
>
>
>
>>It was $65K and the guy was complaining that the car shouldn't have HD8s on
>>it. "The carbs look oversized for the car"
>>
>>
>>
>Surprising comment from Alain de Cadenet, who might be expected to know
>better. But there will be one Kurt Tanner Healey that was brought to B-J that
>won't
>be sold. This morning (I believe) during the inspection period, a Lamborghini
>Countach parked across the aisle from him was left in gear when the owner,
>being cool, started up the car with its remote starter. It jumped across the
>aisle, and front-ended Kurt's car, pretty much totalling it. To add insult to
>embarrassment, when the kid who was displaying the Lambo got in to back it off
>Kurt's car, he still had it in first, so when he let out the clutch, his car
>proceeded to make the damage even worse. And our reporter was on the scene and
>has the whole incident in high-res digital images.
>Now it gets interesting: whose insurance will wind up paying for the damage?
>Did the owner have liability coverage on a car he was about to sell? Did Kurt
>have adequate insurance on the Healey? Does B-J have any coverage for damage
>done to cars while on the field, or even accept any responsibility?
>Cheers
>Gary
From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 08:12:31 -0500
Subject: 3000 engine serial numbers
Original 3000 engines from the factory had serial numbers of the form 29D,
29E, 29F, 29K/RU/HXXXXX.
There are several cars in the BJ8 Registry that have engines that I presume
are replacements, with numbers as follows:
HBJ8/26250: engine 68G277RS33977
HBJ8L/35421: engine 68G213RS2628
HBJ8/36880: engine 68G277AD/RM80700
HBJ8L/37645: engine 68G275PO7157
HBJ8L/42056: engine 68G259RS27897
then there is
HBJ8L/31415: engine V918046P
HBJ8/35417: engine V742473P
HBJ8L/35950: engine N752970P
All of the last three cars are in Australia.
We know what the various parts of the original engine serial numbers mean.
Does anyone know how to interpret the above serial numbers? I know there was
such a thing as factory-provided rebuilt engines (I think they were called
"Gold Seal" engines). These may be the 68Gs. How about the V-numbers?
Thanks for any info.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 08:21:01 -0500
Subject: Re: Healeys at Barrett-Jackson
From Slvrbulit2 at aol.com
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 08:28:29 EST
Subject: Distributor part
From Mark Norris <m.norris at shaw.ca>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 07:58:09 -0800
Subject: keys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 11:14:38 EST
Subject: Re: Distributor part
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email healeydoc@sbcglobal.net
Visit our new web site at
BritishCarSpecialists.com
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 11:30:15 -0500
Subject: Re: Healeys at Barrett-Jackson
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2004 1:16 AM
Subject: Healeys at Barrett-Jackson
> In a message dated 1/24/04 12:00:41 PM, m.brouillette@comcast.net writes:
>
>
> > It was $65K and the guy was complaining that the car shouldn't have HD8s
on
> > it. "The carbs look oversized for the car"
> >
> Surprising comment from Alain de Cadenet, who might be expected to know
> better. But there will be one Kurt Tanner Healey that was brought to B-J
that
> won't
> be sold. This morning (I believe) during the inspection period, a
Lamborghini
> Countach parked across the aisle from him was left in gear when the owner,
> being cool, started up the car with its remote starter. It jumped across
the
> aisle, and front-ended Kurt's car, pretty much totalling it. To add insult
to
> embarrassment, when the kid who was displaying the Lambo got in to back it
off
> Kurt's car, he still had it in first, so when he let out the clutch, his
car
> proceeded to make the damage even worse. And our reporter was on the scene
and
> has the whole incident in high-res digital images.
> Now it gets interesting: whose insurance will wind up paying for the
damage?
> Did the owner have liability coverage on a car he was about to sell? Did
Kurt
> have adequate insurance on the Healey? Does B-J have any coverage for
damage
> done to cars while on the field, or even accept any responsibility?
> Cheers
> Gary
From Ron Fine <RonFineEsq at earthlink.net>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 08:45:04 -0800
Subject: Size of bolts
From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 11:13:34 -0600
Subject: Re: Pacific Green
If the original poster doesn't have access to the book I can scan in a
picture and send it upon request. The colr looks light a medium green to
me, not blue, at least in the pic.
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 14:01:47 -0500
Subject: Re: Healeys at Barrett-Jackson
I agree. All of the negative comments about Lucas in particular and English
cars in general was uncalled for and out of place. I felt bad for Alan who was
alone in his appreciation for English cars and had a hard time standing up to
it. What about the other guy who used to race Bugeyes?
Who the hell would design a car of any price that could be started in gear by
the remote button? JL
From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 14:02:27 -0500
Subject: Re: keys
Yes, that is correct. If your ignition key does not open the door locks, then
either the ignition lock or the door lock has likely been changed or perhaps
the key has worn too much. The lock cylinders for both the ignition and the
glovebox should be stamped with the key number that fits them (on the face
where you insert the key). You know what your ignition key number is from the
BMIHT certificate. Is that the same as the number stamped on the lock
cylinder?
Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark Norris
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2004 10:58 AM
Subject: keys
Hi all
In scanning the archives it appears that the ignition key should also open
the doorlocks (mine doesn't) and the key for the glovebox lock ( I have a BJ8)
should also open the trunk/bootlid lock.Is this correct? BTW, I am very
grateful that I found my glovebox lock after being off the car since circa
1985.....there is an NOS one currently bid at $172.00 on eBay right now.
Mark Norris
67 BJ8
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 14:33:18 EST
Subject: Re: Friday at Barrett-Jackson
> Hi Gary,
>
> Ok, I give up... What is a "fright-pig"? It does not sound
> complementary but I have never heard this phrase.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob
>
You need to broaden your reading beyond Forbes and Business Week.
"Fright-pig" is a term generally attributed to Keith Martin, the maven of
Sports Car
Market magazine, and describes a car coming up for auction that is financial
disaster on wheels. Generally, the car has some combination of worn sheep-skin
seat
covers, huge door gaps, rust bubbles peeking through a quick job of Maaco
paint, lamp cord running parallel to a fraying wire harness, and so forth.
Cheers
Gary
From "Ron Davies" <rdavies1 at cox.net>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 13:19:06 -0800
Subject: Barret-Jackson
From Douglas W Flagg <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 16:41:58 -0500
Subject: Re:Super Charger
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
From Douglas W Flagg <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 16:47:40 -0500
Subject: Re:Super Charger Adendum
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 17:10:03 -0500
Subject: Re: A few quick Questions
Yes, use the rocker cover studs. You can put the chain links on the studs
with big washers then nuts, but I prefer to have a piece of 1/4 steel plate
to attach the chain to. Steel plate of approx 1/4 x 2 x 4 bent to a 45
degree angle and hole for chain attachment is nice.
Keith Pennell
> Hi guys,
> Can I use the rocker cover bolts to pull the engine, or do I need to
remove
> the rocker? (while out I am not doing any work to the motor)
> Also, what should I use for lifting brackets? On the Sprite I used a
couple
> of big washers and bolted straight to the chain but the weights are much
> greater here.
> Thanks
> Patton
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 17:13:36 -0500
Subject: Re: Replacing the handbrake button
Many have experienced this in removing the button. I seem to recall having
to drill/drive/cuss it out. When replacing use a piece of common nail,
around 10 penny should fit in snugly.
Keith Pennell
> I have now found one of the most frustrating points of
> my Healey ownership - R&R'ng the handbrake button.
> It's held on by a "swaged"(?) cross pin. Why didn't
> they simply thread it on?
> Thanks for any help,
> Joe Mulqueen
> '60 BT7
> Torrance, CA
From "Peter Linn" <greylinn at ozemail.com.au>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 08:45:10 +1000
Subject: Re: 3000 engine serial numbers
Certainly the V*****P numbers are Victorian (Australia) Police ID numbers.
The Ward Special, which was based on a written off BN1 chassis, has a
V******P vehicle identification number (chassis number). Are you sure the
one you quote are engine no. rather than chassis numbers? Although I guess
if the engine had been replaced with a reconditioned one where the engine
number had been lost, they may have done the same thing. I wonder if the
N*****P one is New South Wales? You could check with Vic Roads about the
V****P numbers:
http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/
Regards
Peter Linn
Brisbane Australia
BN1 Ward Spl
----- Original Message -----
From: "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2004 11:12 PM
Subject: 3000 engine serial numbers
> Hello, Healeyphiles -
>
> Original 3000 engines from the factory had serial numbers of the form 29D,
> 29E, 29F, 29K/RU/HXXXXX.
>
> There are several cars in the BJ8 Registry that have engines that I
presume
> are replacements, with numbers as follows:
>
> HBJ8/26250: engine 68G277RS33977
> HBJ8L/35421: engine 68G213RS2628
> HBJ8/36880: engine 68G277AD/RM80700
> HBJ8L/37645: engine 68G275PO7157
> HBJ8L/42056: engine 68G259RS27897
>
> then there is
>
> HBJ8L/31415: engine V918046P
> HBJ8/35417: engine V742473P
> HBJ8L/35950: engine N752970P
>
> All of the last three cars are in Australia.
>
> We know what the various parts of the original engine serial numbers mean.
> Does anyone know how to interpret the above serial numbers? I know there
was
> such a thing as factory-provided rebuilt engines (I think they were called
> "Gold Seal" engines). These may be the 68Gs. How about the V-numbers?
>
> Thanks for any info.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC USA
>
.
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 21:41:55 -0500
Subject: Bugeye for sale
Just passing along the info that there has been a 60 Bugeye listed for sale in
my local paper for about 3 months now. No info other than phone number is
given. If anyone wants the number contact me off list.
Keith Pennell
Newport News, VA
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 21:44:36 -0500
Subject: Re: Healeys at Barrett-Jackson
I watched probably 9-10 hours of the B-J. Of that I suspect I sat through
2-3 hours of commercials! :(
Keith Pennell
> Cheers
> Gary
From Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 18:55:06 -0800
Subject: Winter pleasures
From ECP4UW at aol.com
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 22:13:20 EST
Subject: Thanks to noise response
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 21:08:51 -0700
Subject: Re: Thanks to noise response
Back to my previous email on slight possibility of loose U bolts.
The axle should not rotate anywhere as much as you are describing. Not
only will over rotation cause parts to rub, it will severely overflex
the U joints & damage them.
The axle is prevented from rotating by the brackets which sit on the
springs, are welded to the axle, & securely clamped to the springs by U
bolts, 2 on each side. The only thing that should allow slight axle
rotation is a bit of spring flex. For the axle to rotate as much as you
say, either the U bolts are very loose, the bracket to axle welds are
broken, or the spring leaves are broken. A rare possibility is broken
front mounts on the rear springs, or the front spring pivot bolts missing.
Since the axle should not be rotating, the drive shaft diameter is not
likely to be the problem. Anywhere an inch of movement will let the
drive shaft rub on the frame & a lot worse.
Dave Russell
BN2
ECP4UW@aol.com wrote:
> Thanks to those who volunteered ideas on my rear end noise problem. After
> following up on each suggestion I finally pulled the back seat buckets and
> observed the action of the drive shaft and the differential. The
>differential
> rotates up on acceleration and rotates down when the throttle is closed. I
>think
> an inordinate amount. I don't know what is acceptable but I would estimate
>an
> inch in each direction. When the differential rotates down the drive shaft
> drops and rubs on the frame. It rubs because there is to much rotation in
>the
> differential or because the shaft diameter is to great. (used a shortened
> toyota shaft which has a larger diameter than the healey shaft.
> Questions: Could there be reason for the differential rotating so much?
> Has any one had any luck dropping a drive shaft out the
> bottom rather than
> lifting the tranny cover?
> Thanks for listening,
> Gene
> BN4
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 20:16:09 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Thanks to noise response
Forgive if I misinterpret what you are writing here,
but your differntial & driveshaft should not move at
all!!
The diff unit is bolted on to the axle with about 20
bolts... if the diff unit is moving at all... WATCH
OUT VERY DANGEROUS!!! It should not move at all!!
Your drive shaft is touching the frame? My god... DO
NOT DRIVE THIS CAR until your differential is bolted
in place and full of hypoid oil.
if the "rotation" you are talking about is a loose
pinion... DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR!
I can't really diagnose your symptoms as described
(i.e. please explain more clearly which way your
differential is rotating - is it the whole unit or
just the pinion).
- OR -
Maybe you just have a bad universal joint? If it's
just a bad universal joint, this can be fixed with
about $20 in parts and a couple hours of lazy work.
If it is ANYTHING else... it's gunna cost you no
matter how you cut it.
I hope that helps... yes, the drive shaft is easiest
to be dropped from the underside... after the front
four bolts are loosened of course.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- ECP4UW@aol.com wrote:
> Thanks to those who volunteered ideas on my rear end
> noise problem. After
> following up on each suggestion I finally pulled the
> back seat buckets and
> observed the action of the drive shaft and the
> differential. The differential
> rotates up on acceleration and rotates down when the
> throttle is closed. I think
> an inordinate amount. I don't know what is
> acceptable but I would estimate an
> inch in each direction. When the differential
> rotates down the drive shaft
> drops and rubs on the frame. It rubs because there
> is to much rotation in the
> differential or because the shaft diameter is to
> great. (used a shortened
> toyota shaft which has a larger diameter than the
> healey shaft.
> Questions: Could there be reason for the
> differential rotating so much?
> Has any one had any luck dropping
> a drive shaft out the
> bottom rather than
> lifting the tranny cover?
>
> Thanks for listening,
>
> Gene
>
> BN4
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 21:16:25 -0700
Subject: Re: Healeys at Barrett-Jackson
I did something else during the commercials. You don't have to just
helplessly sit & watch. Are we short of things to complain about today?
Dave Russell
Keith Pennell wrote:
> Gary et al,
> I sat through
> 2-3 hours of commercials! :(
>
>
> Keith Pennell
From Dave Carpenter <d.carpenter7 at verizon.net>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 23:49:41 -0500
Subject: Re: Thanks to noise response
Dave
Blue One Hundred wrote:
>Gene -
>
>Forgive if I misinterpret what you are writing here,
>but your differntial & driveshaft should not move at
>all!!
>
>The diff unit is bolted on to the axle with about 20
>bolts... if the diff unit is moving at all... WATCH
>OUT VERY DANGEROUS!!! It should not move at all!!
>
>Your drive shaft is touching the frame? My god... DO
>NOT DRIVE THIS CAR until your differential is bolted
>in place and full of hypoid oil.
From "Ron Davies, DDS" <rdavies1 at cox.net>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 21:27:35 -0800
Subject: RE: Healeys at Barrett-Jackson
From "Steve Sanders" <ssanders at midsouthinc.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 07:49:32 -0600
Subject: backup fuel pump
Steve Sanders 61 BT7
ssanders@midsouthinc.com
From Rick Neville <healeyrick at yahoo.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 05:59:46 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Winter pleasures
Brisk winter air?? Low 50's !!!! All of us in the
northern climes feel your pain. :<>
Happy Healeying,
Rick Neville
Rowley, MA 9 degrees this morning
--- Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz@earthlink.net>
wrote:
> Carole and I bombed out of Santa Rosa this afternoon
> about 4:00 pm
> headed for Cloverdale and the Hamburger ranch for
> dinner Temp. in the
> low 50s we bundled up and flew up 101, the brisk
> winter air lashed our
> faces, a great feeling of joy for life and the
> moment filled our
> hearts. Winter motoring with the top down is always
> best when my love
> is beside me and I have a warm place to protect my
> unused hand. Great
> season for a Healey, always the season to include
> your lady love.
> Cheers,Jaunito
> 56 100-4
>
>
__________________________________
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free web site building tool. Try it!
http://webhosting.yahoo.com/ps/sb/
From John Peak <redbn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 10:55:43 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: 2 seater battery
Tim Davis <tld6008@mchsi.com> wrote:
I was told that an Interstate "MT 26" battery would fit. I need to do the
same thing as you but have not bought the battery yet. I did call around and
got the dimensions which would fit into my tray. They also sell a Universal
Hold-Down that I was also led to believe would work with the 6V trays.
Tim Davis BN7
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Peak"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2004 6:25 PM
Subject: 2 seater battery
> Healey Dudes,
>
> I know this has been discussed before, but a search of the archives
produced no useful results so here goes:
>
> I need to replace the battery in my BN7. The PO installed a single 12
volt battery in place of the two 6 volts years ago, but it is very small. I
would like to stick with a single 12 volt. What is an appropriate size for
this application? I would prefer one that is reasonably close to the size
of the original 6 volt batteries. Any recommendations would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> John
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
---------------------------------
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free web site building tool. Try it!
From "Rick &7& Neves" <Rick at genomictechnologies.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 15:04:08 -0500
Subject: Does anybody know where to get replacement spokes?
I have one wheel that has one spoke that is broken on the inner end, not the
threaded end and I have a second wheel with a slightly bend spoke.
I'm looking for a source for these spokes in the US. My wheels have 48
spokes.
Sincerely
Rick Neves
'56 BN-2
_._
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.566 / Virus Database: 357 - Release Date: 01/22/2004
From "Andrew Fell" <design at soltec.net>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 16:46:06 -0600
Subject: Re: Does anybody know where to get replacement spokes?
I was channel surfing yesterday and happened across a show on a local PBS
station. It was a series (I think) called "Anything I can do" that appeared
to be geared toward women doing typically 'manish' things. There was a
woman in her garage (set) making a cook book stand out of wood. She was not
very adept at carpenrty - and humorously so, but that's beside the point.
Behind her was an ice-blue Healey. It looked to be a BJ7, but they never
gave it a really good look. The front third of it was on camera nearly all
the time.
Has anyone else ever come across this or know anything about the show?
Thanks
Andrew Fell
Urbana, Illinois
63 BJ7
From APPRAISE11 at aol.com
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 18:08:22 EST
Subject: backfiring
i hope you can help. i just had alot of work done to my car and it came back
with a problem i never had. i had my tranny re-built, new clutch, re-built
the carbs and had a new exhust put on. the car backfires alot. the mechanic
that
i had work on the car told me it is either from a bad distributor cap or it
is just to cold for the car to run rite. it is very cold here in new york but
i
still love to drive my car. can you tell me if this sounds rite to you.
thanking you in advance
mitch
1963 bj7
From "Andrew Fell" <design at soltec.net>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 17:13:20 -0600
Subject: second time: with proper subject ..... TV SHOW
Sorry to send this again,,,, I forgot to revise the subject line the first
time.... we're al idiots sometimes huh?
I was channel surfing yesterday and happened across a show on a local PBS
station. It was a series (I think) called "Anything I can do" that appeared
to be geared toward women doing typically 'manish' things. There was a
woman in her garage (set) making a cook book stand out of wood. She was not
very adept at carpenrty - and humorously so, but that's beside the point.
Behind her was an ice-blue Healey. It looked to be a BJ7, but they never
gave it a really good look. The front third of it was on camera nearly all
the time.
Has anyone else ever come across this or know anything about the show?
Thanks
Andrew Fell
Urbana, Illinois
63 BJ7
From "K.C. Morgan" <kc_morgan at jetemail.net>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 16:05:20 -0800
Subject: Seeking direction.
Thank you,
-K.C. Morgan
Seattle, WA
Wall flower at the Healey dance.
*My Dad has many more stories about broken axles, stalling in deep
puddles and tuning carburetors.
--
K.C. Morgan
kc_morgan@jetemail.net
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 19:29:39 -0500
Subject: Parts company Help
I get no response from David Ward at Big Healeys Ltd.. in the UK.
Don't they check emails? No response from their web sight email or
personal email. Very strange.
Thanks, Mark
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 19:21:29 -0500
Subject: Re: Woman doing Manly Things
I just might use this the next time I need a Healey part.
Thank you very much,
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andrew Fell" <design@soltec.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 26, 2004 5:46 PM
Subject: Re: Does anybody know where to get replacement spokes?
> list,
>
> I was channel surfing yesterday and happened across a show on a local PBS
> station. It was a series (I think) called "Anything I can do" that
appeared
> to be geared toward women doing typically 'manish' things. There was a
> woman in her garage (set) making a cook book stand out of wood. She was
not
> very adept at carpenrty - and humorously so, but that's beside the point.
>
> Behind her was an ice-blue Healey. It looked to be a BJ7, but they never
> gave it a really good look. The front third of it was on camera nearly
all
> the time.
>
> Has anyone else ever come across this or know anything about the show?
>
> Thanks
> Andrew Fell
> Urbana, Illinois
> 63 BJ7
From "Len and/or Marge" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 16:57:38 -0800
Subject: RE: second time: with proper subject ..... TV SHOW
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA
1967 3000 MKIII HBJ8L39031
> [Original Message]
> From: Andrew Fell <design@soltec.net>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 1/26/2004 3:13:26 PM
> Subject: second time: with proper subject ..... TV SHOW
>
> list,
>
> Sorry to send this again,,,, I forgot to revise the subject line the first
> time.... we're al idiots sometimes huh?
>
>
> I was channel surfing yesterday and happened across a show on a local PBS
> station. It was a series (I think) called "Anything I can do" that appeared
> to be geared toward women doing typically 'manish' things. There was a
> woman in her garage (set) making a cook book stand out of wood. She was not
> very adept at carpenrty - and humorously so, but that's beside the point.
>
> Behind her was an ice-blue Healey. It looked to be a BJ7, but they never
> gave it a really good look. The front third of it was on camera nearly all
> the time.
>
> Has anyone else ever come across this or know anything about the show?
>
> Thanks
> Andrew Fell
> Urbana, Illinois
> 63 BJ7
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 17:34:53 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Does anybody know where to get replacement spokes?
This comes up on the list about once a month. That
car is Michael Salter's car and the show is a Canadian
show...
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- Andrew Fell <design@soltec.net> wrote:
> list,
>
> I was channel surfing yesterday and happened across
> a show on a local PBS
> station. It was a series (I think) called "Anything
> I can do" that appeared
> to be geared toward women doing typically 'manish'
> things. There was a
> woman in her garage (set) making a cook book stand
> out of wood. She was not
> very adept at carpenrty - and humorously so, but
> that's beside the point.
>
> Behind her was an ice-blue Healey. It looked to be
> a BJ7, but they never
> gave it a really good look. The front third of it
> was on camera nearly all
> the time.
>
> Has anyone else ever come across this or know
> anything about the show?
>
> Thanks
> Andrew Fell
> Urbana, Illinois
> 63 BJ7
From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 20:34:27 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Does anybody know where to get replacement spokes?
--- Andrew Fell <design@soltec.net> wrote: << list, I was channel surfing
yesterday and happened
across a show on a local PBS station. It was a series (I think) called
"Anything I can do" that
appeared to be geared toward women doing typically 'manish' things. There was
a woman in her
garage (set) making a cook book stand out of wood. She was not very adept at
carpenrty - and
humorously so, but that's beside the point. Behind her was an ice-blue Healey.
It looked to be a
BJ7, but they never gave it a really good look. The front third of it was on
camera nearly all
the time. Has anyone else ever come across this or know anything about the
show? Thanks Andrew
Fell Urbana, Illinois 63 BJ7 >>
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 20:52:59 -0500
Subject: RE: Healeys at Barrett-Jackson
Gary R. Cox
67' BJ8
Bradenton, FL
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 17:54:58 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: backfiring
British Carburettors are NOT like American Carbs (e.g.
Carter or Holley) where you can just take a rebuilt
carb and put it on the car without any adjustment.
You must tune the carbs now that they are on the car.
You may also want to check to make sure that the
dashpot piston oil resevoirs are full of 20 WT oil, as
rebuilt carbs will come with this reservoir empty.
With no oil in your dashpot pistons, you car will
backfire (actually, more accurately, they will cough
or prefire through the intake manifold).
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- APPRAISE11@aol.com wrote:
> hi list,
>
> i hope you can help. i just had alot of work done to
> my car and it came back
> with a problem i never had. i had my tranny
> re-built, new clutch, re-built
> the carbs and had a new exhust put on. the car
> backfires alot. the mechanic
> that
> i had work on the car told me it is either from a
> bad distributor cap or it
> is just to cold for the car to run rite. it is very
> cold here in new york but
> i
> still love to drive my car. can you tell me if this
> sounds rite to you.
> thanking you in advance
>
> mitch
> 1963 bj7
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 20:57:42 -0500
Subject: Re: Seeking direction.
I would say skip the Sprite if you have any desire for a big Healey. The
Sprites are OK but unless you have a strong attachment for them I feel you
will find your time/money better spent on what you would really prefer.
Some enjoy the challenge, therapy, and seeing a project progress to a
finished car. But if this is not you, buy the best you can afford. In the
100-4s I would say it will cost you $20k to get into a driver you could feel
confident in. For the 6 cyl cars you could probably get into a driver for
$15k. Whichever direction you go you could always spend more on the "little
things" to improve the car and get to exercise your interest in tinkering.
And as for rust the less the better!
My .02
Keith Pennell
Should I follow my dream of owning a big Healey (I love the BN1 and 2s) or
start with a Spridget? Any help, encouragement (or discouragement for that
matter) would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thank you,
> -K.C. Morgan
> Seattle, WA
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 18:26:36 -0800
Subject: Re: Seeking direction.
I'm in Port Townsend, and have restored a couple of Bug-Eyes, and am in the
middle of restoring my fourth 3000. Give me a call: 360-379-5393.
John Snyder
> Howdy list,
> Im a total neophyte when in comes to car collecting\restoring, but I
would like to change that. I love the style of LBC and AHs are close to my
heart, as my mother has told many stories about her little Sprite (A red
Mark II) she had in high school*. Now its my turn to make some stories,
but my question is where to start? I have read the Healey club website, and
been a lurker on this list for a while, however I still have the most basic
of questions. Such as, where is the best place to look for a car (eBay,
Hemmings, the local paper?), what is a fair price (everyone seems to price
off the 1 footer in the price guide), what is acceptable rust? Im a tinker
and pretty good with a wrench, but I dont think Im ready (nor have time)
for a total rebuild either. Should I follow my dream of owning a big Healey
(I love the BN1 and 2s) or start with a Spridget? Any help, encouragement
(or discouragement for that matter) would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thank you,
> -K.C. Morgan
> Seattle, WA
> Wall flower at the Healey dance.
From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 21:52:00 -0600
Subject: Re: Seeking direction.
1. What is my budget? The price of admission for a BN1 is going to be
maybe 3 or more times higher than a comparable Sprite, as is the cost of
parts.
2. What do I want to do with the car? If you want to zip around your
neighborhood or close to home, a sprite may be more fun, if you want to take
long trips on the highway the big healey with overdrive is much more
comfortable at modern cruising speeds.
3. Do I want a stock or modified cars?, it is once again cheaper to modify
a sprite, and the modifications won't affect resale much, The BMC a series
used in the Sprite is the small block chevy of british motors, hop up parts
are relatively plentiful and cheap here, and even moreso if you order from
Jolly Old England. You can also modify a 100/4 to M spec which shouldn't
detract and may add to value, but once again you will get more bang for you
buck out of Sprite modifications.
4. How big am I? big feet and long legs don't fit in a Sprite very well,
then again I am average sized (6'0") and had to have some of the cushion
taken out of my BN1 seat so my head wouldn't brush the top when up. Neither
car has huge room.
5. Do I care what others think? The unwashed masses seem to look at a
Sprite as a funny little british car, the Big Healey as an English Classic.
As far as rust the less the better if you can see it on the outside there is
probably more on the inside that you will need to take care of with a proper
fix. Totally rust free cars are of course best, but may not be an option
because of time and or budget constraints. Visible rust is usually the
least of your concerns, patching or replacing panels is relatively easy
compared to major fixes to the structural members of the car. That being
said isolated rust in a car may be controllable for a few years until you
can get to it, collector cars lead a much more sheltered life than these
cars did new, and use of a rust inhibitor such as Waxoyl can keep the rust
from spreading quickly if the car is mainly in a controlled environment.
Look underneath the car as well as on the body for signs of rust. The newer
the paint the easier it is to hide the rust, and older paint job may not
look quite as shiny, but will probably give you a more honest idea of
vehicle condition from a visual inspection.
If you are really interested in a car get underneath it and take a good look
for signs of rust or accident damage.
As far as where to look I don't know if there is one best place, these cars
are getting older and harder to find, so don't show up in the local paper
every week, there are upsides and downsides to all. If you are in a hurry
and travel costs are in the budget E-bay and internet are options. If you
are patient local paper and wheeler dealer type mags are an option. I found
my BN1 in the local paper, but it is the only BN1 that has been in the local
paper in about the last twenty years. Once again a good box sprite will
probably be easier to find locally than a BN1.
Good Luck, feel free to contact me on or off list if you want more info.
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
----- Original Message -----
From: "K.C. Morgan" <kc_morgan@jetemail.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 26, 2004 6:05 PM
Subject: Seeking direction.
> Howdy list,
> Im a total neophyte when in comes to car collecting\restoring, but I
would like to change that. I love the style of LBC and AHs are close to my
heart, as my mother has told many stories about her little Sprite (A red
Mark II) she had in high school*. Now its my turn to make some stories,
but my question is where to start? I have read the Healey club website, and
been a lurker on this list for a while, however I still have the most basic
of questions. Such as, where is the best place to look for a car (eBay,
Hemmings, the local paper?), what is a fair price (everyone seems to price
off the 1 footer in the price guide), what is acceptable rust? Im a tinker
and pretty good with a wrench, but I dont think Im ready (nor have time)
for a total rebuild either. Should I follow my dream of owning a big Healey
(I love the BN1 and 2s) or start with a Spridget? Any help, encouragement
(or discouragement for that matter) would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thank you,
> -K.C. Morgan
> Seattle, WA
> Wall flower at the Healey dance.
>
> *My Dad has many more stories about broken axles, stalling in deep
> puddles and tuning carburetors.
> --
> K.C. Morgan
> kc_morgan@jetemail.net
From ECP4UW at aol.com
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 23:07:13 EST
Subject: mystery noise
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 20:08:25 -0800
Subject: Passing Mention of DMH ...
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 22:27:18 -0600
Subject: Re: backfiring
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at westnet.com.au>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 12:53:44 +0800
Subject: Re: Parts company Help
Mark
I believe he is focusing on other pursuits and winding down the Healey side.
You just have to wait a few days to get a reply.
Cheers
John Rowe
Perth
From Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 21:26:24 -0800
Subject: backfire
From <lists at autox.team.net>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 02:47:30 -0700
Subject: Forwarded: Bugeye for sale in Alabama
http://www.team.net/posting.html
Reply to author, not me.
mjb.
----
------- Start of forwarded message -------
From: "Keith Turk" <kturk@ala.net>
Subject: Bugeye for sale in Alabama
Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 03:27:31 -0600
I have finally made the decision to sell my Bugeye. I've owned it 20
years and it's a decent car. I've done lots of work to it over the
years but it's not perfect by a lot. What it is, is a very nice
Bugeye starter car.
The reason I bought the car in the first place was a serious lack of
rust. It's got very little in the rockers but they are not terminal
by a bunch. The floors are Solid and have no issues.
After several years of playing with it I decided to rebuild a 1275 for
it with a ribcage trans. The motor has very little time on it and has
a Kent Cam and some mild port work to the head. ( yes it runs rather
nice ) For the concours guys I did keep the 948 and smooth case trans
that go in the car and they can go with the car when it's sold or they
can stay here, up to the buyer I suppose.
I'm not a dealer, the reason I'm selling it is because I built it for my
wife who now constitutes an Ex wife, and frankly it's not doing what I
think it should be doing which is making folks smile.
The selling price is going to be based on what goes with the car but
I'm going to start the price at $7500. If it's to much then I suppose
I'll lower it. If it's to low then shame on me. I'm not in this
for the money so negotiating up front isn't in my plan but after a
month or so I'll come down. The real question is will it be here in a
month?
Keith ( I really do want to sell it to one of us... meaning folks who
will love and enjoy the hell out of the car)
------- End of forwarded message -------
From =?iso-8859-1?Q?Ulf_H=E5kansson_privat?= <hakansson.ulf at telia.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 16:50:00 +0100
Subject: Missing tommy bar
Thanks
Ulf/BN2-55
From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 10:08:15 -0600
Subject: Power brake Retrofit Info Needed
Jack
From Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 11:20:30 -0500
Subject: re. back firing
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 14:15:47 EST
Subject: e-mail virus note
From "John R. Draxler" <jdrax at tds.net>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 15:59:42 -0600
Subject: Gearbox lube recommendatation
I know it says 7.5 pints US of recommended oil but not what type oil
-----------------------------------------------------------
Thunderbird Ranch 7158 Highway B Pittsville, WI 54466
Ph 715-884-6546 (9-5 central ) fax 715-884-6720 jdrax@tds.net
http://www.tbirdranch.com (Subscribe to my free newsletter on my website)
And now a second website........ http://www.tbirdhelp.com
Have a terrific day and may God guide your footsteps.
From "K.C. Morgan" <kc_morgan at jetemail.net>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 14:10:49 -0800
Subject: Re: Seeking direction.
I want to say thank you for everyones great advice, and
encouragement. Sounds like I need to hit the books, get involved in
the local chapter\support group, and, this is probably the best but
hardest to follow piece of advice, take the time to find THE car not
just A car. I am amazed by everyones willingness to help, not
something you see everyday. Thank you again!
Cheers,
-K.C.
Wall flower seeking a dance partner.
--
K.C. Morgan
kc_morgan@jetemail.net
From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 17:49:12 -0500
Subject: Re: e-mail virus note
From "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe at earthlink.net>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 18:12:21 -0500
Subject: Test, No Message, Delete
From Rick Neville <healeyrick at yahoo.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 17:22:07 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Seeking direction.
To echo some of the other responses, Sprites and big
Healeys are (as the Brits like to say) like chalk and
cheese. They're very different and you really need to
get behind the wheel to see which meets your needs and
wants. Try the local chapters and maybe you can mooch
a ride or drive, then try to figure out your budget.
Sprites are cheap (relatively) and big Healeys aren't.
If you don't have the skills or the budget to do a
big Healey restoration, spend your money on a really
nice Sprite. The Sprite you can drive around will be a
lot more fun than the big Healey you can't afford to
fix and sits in your garage. Bugeye Sprites are the
most valuable Sprites, but the later cars can still
give you a lot of fun. Above all, buy the best
rust-free car you can afford. Rust repair and paint
work are expensive.
Happy future Healeying,
Rick
Big Healey, Little Healey, & Plastic Healey
(BJ7) AN5 Jamaican-Healey
--- "K.C. Morgan" <kc_morgan@jetemail.net> wrote:
> Thank you list!
>
> I want to say thank you for everyones great
> advice, and
> encouragement. Sounds like I need to hit the
> books, get involved in
> the local chapter\support group, and, this is
> probably the best but
> hardest to follow piece of advice, take the time
> to find THE car not
> just A car. I am amazed by everyones
> willingness to help, not
> something you see everyday. Thank you again!
>
>
> Cheers,
> -K.C.
> Wall flower seeking a dance partner.
> --
> K.C. Morgan
> kc_morgan@jetemail.net
>
>
__________________________________
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free web site building tool. Try it!
http://webhosting.yahoo.com/ps/sb/
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
To: "mgb-v8 list" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 17:33:10 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Gearbox lube recommendatation
Recommended lubricant is standard engine oil - either
non-detergent 30 WT if you can find it or 20W-50.
Many on the list, however suggest using Redline MT90
gearbox lubricant... I use it in both my cars and it
works like a champ.
Regards,
alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- "John R. Draxler" <jdrax@tds.net> wrote:
> Can someone please tell me what to fill the gearbox
> with
> My shop manual does not have the lubricatation
> section in it
>
> I know it says 7.5 pints US of recommended oil but
> not what type oil
>
>
>
-----------------------------------------------------------
> Thunderbird Ranch 7158 Highway B Pittsville, WI
> 54466
> Ph 715-884-6546 (9-5 central ) fax 715-884-6720
> jdrax@tds.net
> http://www.tbirdranch.com (Subscribe to my free
> newsletter on my website)
> And now a second website........
> http://www.tbirdhelp.com
>
> Have a terrific day and may God guide your
> footsteps.
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "K.C. Morgan" <kc_morgan@jetemail.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 20:34:08 -0500
Subject: Re: Seeking direction.
> Thank you list!
>
> I want to say thank you for everyones great advice, and
> encouragement. Sounds like I need to hit the books, get involved in
> the local chapter\support group, and, this is probably the best but
> hardest to follow piece of advice, take the time to find THE car not
> just A car. I am amazed by everyones willingness to help, not
> something you see everyday. Thank you again!
>
>
> Cheers,
> -K.C.
> Wall flower seeking a dance partner.
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "K.C. Morgan" <kc_morgan@jetemail.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 17:35:49 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Power brake Retrofit Info Needed
The BJ8 master cylinder is sized SPECIFICALLY to work
with a Brake Booster. If you don't have a brake
booster on your car, the BJ8 brake master will take
alot of pedal pressure to get the car to brake.
Switch to a standard BT7 brake master and that should
solve your problem
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- "Brashear, Jack, N"
<JNBrashear@garverengineers.com> wrote:
> Hi All, I adapted Cadillac rear disks to the rear of
> my BT7 Mk2. The
> brakes work very well now after I learned a few
> things about GM calipers
> and bias valves I didn't know before. Problem
> is....I'm lazy and the
> brakes take more "LEG" than stock before their super
> stopping ability
> kicks in. By the way, I'm using a BJ8 (7/8") master
> cylinder. Has
> anyone retrofitted non-Healey power brakes to their
> AH?? Maybe
> something obtainable at the U-Pull-It?? I seriously
> want to look into
> this and would appreciate some feedback from those
> who have done so.
> Many Thanks!!
>
> Jack
From "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe at earthlink.net>
From: "K.C. Morgan" <kc_morgan@jetemail.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 21:08:37 -0500
Subject: Super Insulating A Healey
Several weeks ago I mentioned that I had significantly reduced the cockpit
temperatures of my Healey. Many wrote and asked what I did and I promised to
write an outline.
Alan Seigrist (Blue One Hundred) has graciously posted the outline on his site
for easy access. The outline is 6 pages long. Go to
http://seigrist.com/insulation.html for the information.
This is a sample from the outline:
"After the insulation process, engine cooling and new fans, I drove the car
for an hour to compare the temps. The temp gauge read 190E F, the windshield
thermometer read 70E F, the transmission tunnel read 78E F' and the column
read 77E F. I turned on the fresh air duct fan and drove for about 10 minutes.
With the new 4" fresh air duct fan running, on high, the trans tunnel temp was
71E F and the steering column temp was 70E F. I would say the insulation was a
success!"
If you have additional questions, about what I did or the process, email me at
fredwescoe@earthlink.net.
Fred
1963 BJ7
From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: "K.C. Morgan" <kc_morgan@jetemail.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 21:10:53 -0500
Subject: Everflex vs. Sunfast
Thanks,
Mick Vander Ploeg
'57 BN4
From "Neal Grotenhuis" <grotenhuis at comcast.net>
From: "K.C. Morgan" <kc_morgan@jetemail.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 21:38:50 -0500
Subject: RE: Gearbox lube recommendatation
It is interesting that the TR-6s, some of which used the same type-A
overdrive, recommend 80-90wt gear oil.
Neal G. '61 BT7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of John R. Draxler
Sent: Tuesday, January 27, 2004 5:00 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: Gearbox lube recommendatation
Can someone please tell me what to fill the gearbox with
My shop manual does not have the lubricatation section in it
I know it says 7.5 pints US of recommended oil but not what type oil
-----------------------------------------------------------
Thunderbird Ranch 7158 Highway B Pittsville, WI 54466
Ph 715-884-6546 (9-5 central ) fax 715-884-6720 jdrax@tds.net
http://www.tbirdranch.com (Subscribe to my free newsletter on my website)
And now a second website........ http://www.tbirdhelp.com
Have a terrific day and may God guide your footsteps
From Rich Holman <rich_holman at yahoo.com>
From: "K.C. Morgan" <kc_morgan@jetemail.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 18:47:17 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Good Company
Sure hope this link works.
http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rich_holman/album?.tok=phTOIjABwhcuesT5&.dir=/61a7&.src=ph
Rich
57 BN4
__________________________________
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free web site building tool. Try it!
http://webhosting.yahoo.com/ps/sb/
From Jon McLeroy <jfm at spyderinternet.com>
From: "K.C. Morgan" <kc_morgan@jetemail.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 21:10:20 -0600
Subject: Re: Gearbox lube recommendatation
The recommended oil for the gear box is a 30W non-detergent oil, multi
viscosity is ok.
I have Penrite Gear Oil 30 or 40 in stock.
If you would like a brochure please let me have your mailing address and
I'll get the information out in tomorrows mail.
Thanks and God Bless
Jon
Classic Auto Lubes
12803 CR 1222
Tyler, Tx 75709
Ph: 903-561-4858
Fax: 903-561-7177
Email: jfm@spyderinternet.com
www.classicautolubes.com
At 03:59 PM 1/27/04 -0600, you wrote:
>Can someone please tell me what to fill the gearbox with
>My shop manual does not have the lubricatation section in it
>
>I know it says 7.5 pints US of recommended oil but not what type oil
>
>
>-----------------------------------------------------------
>Thunderbird Ranch 7158 Highway B Pittsville, WI 54466
>Ph 715-884-6546 (9-5 central ) fax 715-884-6720 jdrax@tds.net
>http://www.tbirdranch.com (Subscribe to my free newsletter on my website)
>And now a second website........ http://www.tbirdhelp.com
>
>Have a terrific day and may God guide your footsteps.
--
This message has been scanned for viruses and
dangerous content by our MailScanner, and is
believed to be clean.
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 22:40:13 -0500
Subject: Everflex vs. Sunfast
> Heritage Upholstery & Trim offers two types of convertible tops...English
> Everflex Vinyl or Sunfast Cloth. The Sunfast is two hundred bucks more
> expensive than the Everflex. Is it worth it? Does anyone out there have
> experience with both? I know that for originality's sake I should install
> vinyl, but I'm also interested in appearance, durability, and longevity.
Any
> thoughts?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mick Vander Ploeg
> '57 BN4
From ECP4UW at aol.com
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 22:56:43 EST
Subject: (no subject)
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 20:07:14 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Power brake Retrofit Info Needed
I forgot to mention my BJ8 has a rear disc conversion
on it (Jaguar Girling brakes) with a PBR brake booster
(It's a cheap aussie booster... with a little less
than standard boost vacuum) and a standard BJ8 master
cylinder. The brake pedal required to stop the car is
perfectly balanced... it is definitely not too hard.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- "Brashear, Jack, N"
<JNBrashear@garverengineers.com> wrote:
> Hi All, I adapted Cadillac rear disks to the rear of
> my BT7 Mk2. The
> brakes work very well now after I learned a few
> things about GM calipers
> and bias valves I didn't know before. Problem
> is....I'm lazy and the
> brakes take more "LEG" than stock before their super
> stopping ability
> kicks in. By the way, I'm using a BJ8 (7/8") master
> cylinder. Has
> anyone retrofitted non-Healey power brakes to their
> AH?? Maybe
> something obtainable at the U-Pull-It?? I seriously
> want to look into
> this and would appreciate some feedback from those
> who have done so.
> Many Thanks!!
>
> Jack
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 20:11:16 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Super Insulating A Healey - Addenda
My website seems to be a bit finicky on what you type
in for a URL, so use this link (the one Fred provided
doesn't seem to work):
http://www.seigrist.com/Insulation.html
Let me just say that Fred has written a really super
article here with many GREAT suggestions and a lot of
great information for doing this on the cheap. It is
a really nice detailed article.
Best Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe@earthlink.net> wrote:
> Listers
>
> Several weeks ago I mentioned that I had
> significantly reduced the cockpit
> temperatures of my Healey. Many wrote and asked
> what I did and I promised to
> write an outline.
>
> Alan Seigrist (Blue One Hundred) has graciously
> posted the outline on his site
> for easy access. The outline is 6 pages long. Go to
> http://seigrist.com/insulation.html for the
> information.
>
> This is a sample from the outline:
>
> "After the insulation process, engine cooling and
> new fans, I drove the car
> for an hour to compare the temps. The temp gauge
> read 190E F, the windshield
> thermometer read 70E F, the transmission tunnel read
> 78E F' and the column
> read 77E F. I turned on the fresh air duct fan and
> drove for about 10 minutes.
> With the new 4" fresh air duct fan running, on high,
> the trans tunnel temp was
> 71E F and the steering column temp was 70E F. I
> would say the insulation was a
> success!"
>
>
>
> If you have additional questions, about what I did
> or the process, email me at
> fredwescoe@earthlink.net.
>
> Fred
>
> 1963 BJ7
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 22:24:58 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Everflex vs. Sunfast
Don't forget, your top is only as good as the plastic
rear window they put in it.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- Mick VanderPloeg <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com> wrote:
> Heritage Upholstery & Trim offers two types of
> convertible tops...English
> Everflex Vinyl or Sunfast Cloth. The Sunfast is two
> hundred bucks more
> expensive than the Everflex. Is it worth it? Does
> anyone out there have
> experience with both? I know that for originality's
> sake I should install
> vinyl, but I'm also interested in appearance,
> durability, and longevity. Any
> thoughts?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mick Vander Ploeg
> '57 BN4
From "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe at earthlink.net>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 07:00:54 -0500
Subject: Super Insulating"
Thanks for the kind words Alan and for resolving the access problem for all.
Additionally, following the degree readings, the letter "E" sometimes
appears, before the letter F. In my original text, I inserted a degree symbol
here. This was first reported by Roland Wilhelmey who, along with others,
participated in the edit process, There does not seem to be a fix for this so
just white out the "E".
I have had a lot of response to the outline. I had no idea so many wanted to
solve the problem. If I can give further information, let me know.
Thanks
Fred
From APPRAISE11 at aol.com
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 08:14:59 EST
Subject: backfiring
i would like to thank everybody for their responses and ideas. as soon as i
get the foot of snow cleaned up i will find out what is wrong with my car.
again thanks everybody for your help.
mitch
1963 bj7
From Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 05:37:35 -0800
Subject: Re: second time: with proper subject ..... TV SHOW
Len and/or Marge wrote:
>Andrew: This is a TV program that was mentioned a while back on The List. It
>is a 'do it yourself' program by Mag Ruffman. Check the web site at
>www.anythingicando.com . Then check Mag's Car.
>
>(The Other) Len
>Vacaville, CA
>1967 3000 MKIII HBJ8L39031
>
>
>
>
>>[Original Message]
>>From: Andrew Fell <design@soltec.net>
>>To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>>Date: 1/26/2004 3:13:26 PM
>>Subject: second time: with proper subject ..... TV SHOW
>>
>>list,
>>
>>Sorry to send this again,,,, I forgot to revise the subject line the first
>>time.... we're al idiots sometimes huh?
>>
>>
>>I was channel surfing yesterday and happened across a show on a local PBS
>>station. It was a series (I think) called "Anything I can do" that appeared
>>to be geared toward women doing typically 'manish' things. There was a
>>woman in her garage (set) making a cook book stand out of wood. She was not
>>very adept at carpenrty - and humorously so, but that's beside the point.
>>
>>Behind her was an ice-blue Healey. It looked to be a BJ7, but they never
>>gave it a really good look. The front third of it was on camera nearly all
>>the time.
>>
>>Has anyone else ever come across this or know anything about the show?
>>
>>Thanks
>>Andrew Fell
>>Urbana, Illinois
>>63 BJ7
From "Frenken, Eric" <efrenken at lctax.de>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 15:39:05 +0100
Subject: Re: Gearbox lube recommendatation
The maintenance section of my driver's handbook says to change oil of engine,
gearbox, overdrive and rear axle every 6,000 miles. The maintenance overview at
the end of the driver's handbook states to change just engine oil every 6,000
miles and check the other lubricants and top them up if necessary.
Do I really have to change all the "oils" every 6,000 miles or is it a misprint
in the driver's handbook?
Your replies will be highly appreciated.
Eric Frenken '63 BT7 (ex BJ7)
Heinsberg, Germany
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 06:58:07 -0800
Subject: K&N Filter Setup for BJ8s
I've been corresponding with David Anton of APT Engineering
in Riverside, CA. This is the company that is affiliated with David
Vizard of _Tuning A-Series Engines_ fame. Anyway, David is
willing to consider doing a production run of backplates to adapt
6" K&N air filters for the BJ8.
If you have a BJ8, you know the air filter setup is kind of awkward,
with the front having to be mounted very low to clear the bonnet and
the rear requiring an inlet for the crankcase/valve cover breather tube.
We haven't gone into detail, but the setup will probably have some
sort of radiused opening or a short ram pipe to aid breathing. And
you probably know K&N filters are favored by many engine builders
and in the aftermarket.
I've offered to help David with engineering the prototype and to
market the production run, as well as with initial funding. I don't
expect to make any money on this--and may well lose some--but
I want this for my car so bad I'm willing to do it.
If you're interested in such a setup let me know off-list. They won't
be cheap--I'm guessing a couple hundred dollars a set, at least--but
if you've put thousands of dollars in your engine and you drive your
Healey seriously (I put several thousand miles a year on mine, often
in less than ideal conditions), then you'll want this.
You can always bolt-up the old bug-stoppers when you trailer your
car to the show ;)
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
From "Frenken, Eric" <efrenken at lctax.de>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 16:10:53 +0100
Subject: Test, pls disregard
From "Dennis Broughel" <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 10:51:44 -0500
Subject: electric cooling fan
Dennis Broughel
brougheldp@earthlink.net
From "Robert Poague" <rapoague at gte.net>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 09:21:12 -0800
Subject: Re: Seeking Direction
If you haven't already, be sure to visit the Cascade Austin Healey Club
website at http://www.homestead.com/cascadeahc/home.html. In my personal
opinion, you should go for the best 3000 you can find and afford.
Bob Poague
Olympia, WA
----- Original Message -----
From: "K.C. Morgan" <kc_morgan@jetemail.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 26, 2004 4:05 PM
Subject: Seeking direction.
> Howdy list,
> Im a total neophyte when in comes to car collecting\restoring, but I
would like to change that. I love the style of LBC and AHs are close to my
heart, as my mother has told many stories about her little Sprite (A red
Mark II) she had in high school*. Now its my turn to make some stories,
but my question is where to start? I have read the Healey club website, and
been a lurker on this list for a while, however I still have the most basic
of questions. Such as, where is the best place to look for a car (eBay,
Hemmings, the local paper?), what is a fair price (everyone seems to price
off the 1 footer in the price guide), what is acceptable rust? Im a tinker
and pretty good with a wrench, but I dont think Im ready (nor have time)
for a total rebuild either. Should I follow my dream of owning a big Healey
(I love the BN1 and 2s) or start with a Spridget? Any help, encouragement
(or discouragement for that matter) would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thank you,
> -K.C. Morgan
> Seattle, WA
> Wall flower at the Healey dance.
>
> *My Dad has many more stories about broken axles, stalling in deep
> puddles and tuning carburetors.
> --
> K.C. Morgan
> kc_morgan@jetemail.net
From Brian Burke <wharf-st at shaw.ca>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 09:13:19 -0800
Subject: The Proper Red
Brian
From Stella67 at aol.com
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 13:14:48 -0500
Subject: Re: Everflex vs. Sunfast
What ever you do, first make yourself happy with the choice. The rest will work
itself out.
Have fun!
John
From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 13:04:49 -0800 (PST)
Subject: seat bases
__________________________________
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free web site building tool. Try it!
http://webhosting.yahoo.com/ps/sb/
From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 15:28:46 -0600
Subject: Heat Shield Material - Thanks for the help AND Some Cool
Jack
From David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 13:41:53 -0800
Subject: Re: Seeking Direction
--
David Nock
NEW E-mail Addresses!!!
David Nock, Technical Questions healeydoc@sbcglobal.net
Sheila Nock-Huggins, Parts Questions britishcardoc@sbcglobal.net
British Car Specialists 2060 N. Wilson Way Stockton CA 95205
Phone 209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030
http://www.britishcarspecialists.com
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 15:25:12 -0700
Subject: Re: The Proper Red
Dave Russell
BN2
Brian Burke wrote:
> I am getting into the paint stage of a '54 100/4. The original color was
> red, but I am told conflicting stories as weather it is Colorado red or
> Tahoe red. What is the proper red and does anyone have the paint codes for
> this? Thank you
>
> Brian
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 17:28:07 -0500
Subject: Re: The Proper Red
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Burke" <wharf-st@shaw.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2004 12:13 PM
Subject: The Proper Red
> I am getting into the paint stage of a '54 100/4. The original color
was
> red, but I am told conflicting stories as weather it is Colorado red or
> Tahoe red. What is the proper red and does anyone have the paint codes
for
> this? Thank you
>
> Brian
From "Dennis Broughel" <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 17:50:30 -0500
Subject: FW: electric cooling fan
----- Original Message -----
From: Dennis Broughel
To: austin healey
Sent: 1/28/2004 10:51:40 AM
Subject: electric cooling fan
Dear list;
I have a fear of my 47 year cooling fan will either eat my radiator or
disintegrate at high revs. Has anyone on the list had any experience with the
electric fans. I have a newly re cored radiator and the engine runs at normal
temperatures. I have the engine and transmission properly secured so there is
no chance of the unit sliding foreword into the radiator.
Thanks in advance
Dennis Broughel
Bn-4 Longridge
Dennis Broughel
brougheldp@earthlink.net
From "Ron Davies" <rdavies1 at cox.net>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 16:19:49 -0800
Subject: RE: Everflex vs. Sunfast and adjusting the top
Does anyone on the list know how to adjust the top to move the bow slightly
forward on one side? 1/8 inch should do it.
Thanks in advance.
Ron
From James E Austin <ahbugeye1 at juno.com>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 19:40:38 -0500
Subject: BJ7 Crankshaft rear oil seal kit
Thanks so much,
Sam Austin
From "Imagination Engineering, Inc." <ieincparts at cfl.rr.com>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 20:17:42 -0500
Subject: BJ8 FOR SALE
From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 21:20:24 -0500
Subject: Pulling my trans.
James Lea
Rockport Maine
1962 BT7 II
From "David Zuiderveld" <davzu29 at earthlink.net>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 21:25:59 -0500
Subject: Re: Everflex vs. Sunfast
DZ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 27, 2004 9:10
Subject: Everflex vs. Sunfast
> Heritage Upholstery & Trim offers two types of convertible tops...English
> Everflex Vinyl or Sunfast Cloth. The Sunfast is two hundred bucks more
> expensive than the Everflex. Is it worth it? Does anyone out there have
> experience with both? I know that for originality's sake I should install
> vinyl, but I'm also interested in appearance, durability, and longevity.
Any
> thoughts?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mick Vander Ploeg
> '57 BN4
from Moss and they are well done.
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 21:37:15 -0500
Subject: Re: seat bases
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2004 4:04 PM
Subject: seat bases
> Hello,
> I'm researching new seat bases for my car (mine are
> long gone). Other than originality, is there any
> issue to consider when choosing between the wood or
> metal reproductions?
> Regards,
> Joe Mulqueen
> '60 BT7
>
> __________________________________
From "Neal Grotenhuis" <grotenhuis at comcast.net>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 22:05:48 -0500
Subject: RE: Pulling my trans.
I would replace the $6 "spigot bush" as Moss calls it. This is what the
very end of the input shaft spins in. Sometimes difficult to remove, it's
inside the rear end of the crankshaft. The release bearing is also usually
replaced at the same time as the clutch. There is a rear main seal kit that
can be added (~$120) as long as the clutch plate is off, and the rear engine
plate exposed. This is optional, but has been effective at eliminating oil
leaks (almost completely) for me.
My overdrive is currently apart on my bench, so if your're daring, there's
plenty of opportunity to check items there! I've done a few Healey
transmissions, am just finishing my O.D., and have almost completed a test
jig for it. I'm a 1/2 hour west of Kittery if you need any support...
Neal G.
61 BT7 MKI
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of James Lea
Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2004 9:20 PM
To: List Healeys
Subject: Pulling my trans.
As soon as the weather warms up to 25 F or so I plan to pull my trans for an
overhaul. I have heard that you should always change the clutch plate while
you have the trans out. Is there anything else that I should check or
replace
while I can? Thanks, JL
James Lea
Rockport Maine
1962 BT7 II
From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 19:21:48 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Non Healey - plastic radiator tanks
__________________________________
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free web site building tool. Try it!
http://webhosting.yahoo.com/ps/sb/
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 19:30:10 -0800
Subject: Re: Non Healey - plastic radiator tanks
No prepair possible.
No longevity intended.
Welcome to the computer designed, robot built, rolling jelly bean
automotive era. We all suffer from it.
Brian N.
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 19:31:04 -0800
Subject: Re: Plastic Radiators
No repair possible.
No longevity intended.
Welcome to the computer designed, robot built, rolling jelly bean
automotive era. We all suffer from it.
Brian N.
From "Imagination Engineering, Inc." <ieincparts at cfl.rr.com>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 22:32:34 -0500
Subject: BJ8 FOR SALE 1965
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 19:31:50 -0800
Subject: Pulling trans
Its also a good idea to put on new rear rubber mounts, and bushings on
that funny longitudinal brace. And for a few well spent bucks (no
reference to happy indians) you can replace the slave cylinder, too. And
when you service the clutch, take the fly wheel off and have it
resurfaced. And when you put it back on, use new bolts. We sheared off
a set on the Bugeye a few years ago...for want of a bolt, the engine was
lost...etc.
(My son was driving. Don't ask me how he did it.)
Hope all goes well. Follow the tips on using the dowel to held the
needle bearings in.
Happy Motoring.
Brian N.
1960 BT7
From John Harper <AH at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 08:53:47 +0000
Subject: Re: BN1 VIN Plate Correction
Sorry to come back to this after such a delay but I have been searching
out the car identification plate that I tried to describe about a week
ago.
The 'interim' plate that I have seen with my own eyes is fitted to BN1
Chassis Number 219252 built 13th September 1954. A few other owners have
described something similar. We had this plate copied and below is a
picture of our reproduction which is fairly accurate but not totally
perfect.
Please use this full WEB address to access the image. There are no links
to take you to this from other WEB pages
http://www.jharper.demon.co.uk/carplt1.htm
This plate is fitted in the right hand footwell, approximately in the
same place as the white plastic (melamine?) plate was fitted on earlier
cars.
I speculate here, but it would seem likely Longbridge had not quite
decided what style of plate should be used after CE 219000 and where it
should be located.
If anybody else has one of these plates fitted, I like many other
enthusiasts, would be very interested to hear from you.
All the best
>In a message dated 1/22/04 7:53:05 PM Pacific Standard Time, CNAArndt writes:
>
><< Starting in late '54 and during a brief period of about 2 months from
>December '54 to January of '55, both the white plastic VIN plate and the
>rectangular alloy chassis plate were deleted and replaced by the new
>alloy chassis
>plate with the rounded ends. This also corresponded with the
>introduction of the
>unified chassis/engine numbers. >>
>
>I should have stated that:
>
>Since the unified chassis/engine numbers started in Sep. '54, this should
>indicate that the new alloy chassis plate was in the drivers foot well from
>Sep.
>through sometime in late Jan. or early Feb. of '55, a 6 month versus a 2 month
>period. So once again, I am still looking for documentation from owners out
>there.
>
>Curt
>
--
John Harper
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 01:06:13 -0500
Subject: Re: Pulling my trans.
As someone else pointed out you should replace the throwout bearing while in
there.
Brian N suggested resurfacing the flywheel. Rather than do that why not
lighten it by 4 pounds or so? My fly was lightened to around 21 pounds by a
local Mini racer and it makes for a noticeably peppier performance. Bill
Bolton has them ready for around $200 exchange. Has no effect on engine HP
but puts more HP at the drive wheels.
My .02
Keith Pennell
> As soon as the weather warms up to 25 F or so I plan to pull my trans for
an
> overhaul. I have heard that you should always change the clutch plate
while
> you have the trans out. Is there anything else that I should check or
replace
> while I can? Thanks, JL
>
> James Lea
> Rockport Maine
> 1962 BT7 II
From R5SPEED at aol.com
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 22:45:12 EST
Subject: Re: Power brake Retrofit Info Needed
WHERE DID YOU BUY YOUR P.B.R BOSTER??
SMITTY
From "Lynn Martin-Forever Healeys" <foreverhealeys at my180.net>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 19:51:03 -0800
Subject: 100M starter
Has anyone else had this problem and if so what did you do to correct it?
TIA,
Lynn Martin
Post Falls, Idaho
BJ7, (3) BT7s, BN7, BN6, BN4
from the solenoid is connected. The connections should be right on the
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 08:11:03 -0500
Subject: RE: 100M starter
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Lynn Martin-Forever Healeys
Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2004 10:51 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: 100M starter
I have a 100M with high compression pistons. The engine was rebuilt
along with
the starter. The problem is that the starter doesn't have the power to
spin
the engine properly. It will start but it turns over slowly. I did have
a
second rebuilt starter that I tried but it made no difference.
Has anyone else had this problem and if so what did you do to correct
it?
TIA,
Lynn Martin
Post Falls, Idaho
BJ7, (3) BT7s, BN7, BN6, BN4
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 08:18:10 -0500
Subject: Re: 100M starter
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lynn Martin-Forever Healeys" <foreverhealeys@my180.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2004 10:51 PM
Subject: 100M starter
> I have a 100M with high compression pistons. The engine was rebuilt along
with
> the starter. The problem is that the starter doesn't have the power to
spin
> the engine properly. It will start but it turns over slowly. I did have a
> second rebuilt starter that I tried but it made no difference.
>
> Has anyone else had this problem and if so what did you do to correct it?
>
> TIA,
> Lynn Martin
> Post Falls, Idaho
> BJ7, (3) BT7s, BN7, BN6, BN4
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 06:07:52 -0800
Subject: Re: 100M starter
Could be the windings (field and/or armature) have degraded. A typical
rebuild just changes bearings/bushes, brushes and turns the commutator.
It'll take a "specialist", I believe, to rewind the windings.
OTOH, Victoria British has gear reduction starters on sale for $270. Haven't
used one myself, but other Listers have endorsed them (gear reduction/hi-perf
starters, that is).
Victoria British:
800-255-0088
Part# 10-557
(no financial interest, blah, blah ... just happened to notice them on sale)
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lynn Martin-Forever Healeys" <foreverhealeys@my180.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2004 7:51 PM
Subject: 100M starter
> I have a 100M with high compression pistons. The engine was rebuilt along with
> the starter. The problem is that the starter doesn't have the power to spin
> the engine properly. It will start but it turns over slowly. I did have a
> second rebuilt starter that I tried but it made no difference.
>
> Has anyone else had this problem and if so what did you do to correct it?
>
> TIA,
> Lynn Martin
> Post Falls, Idaho
> BJ7, (3) BT7s, BN7, BN6, BN4
From "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe at earthlink.net>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 09:23:08 -0500
Subject: Super Insulating
I am still getting questions on the correct address for this article. The
correct address is: http://www.seigrist.com/Insulation.html
Thanks,
Fred
'63 BJ7
From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 09:55:42 -0500
Subject: RE: Pulling my trans.
Staying warm enough up there in beautiful Rockport?
Years ago (in my 20s) I singlehandedly pulled the trans on my BJ8 and
replaced the clutch. The time spent was mostly consumed removing and
replacing the tunnel, console, etc. I recall getting a wooden clutch
centering tool at the time. It goes into the pilot bearing and lets you bolt
everything together properly before re-inserting the tranny. Be sure to get
one of those.
Also, replace EVERYTHING under there---the pilot bearing, the clutch plate,
throw-out bearing. Why not have all parts new, not just the clutch?
Also purchase heavy-duty parts if possible, not "standard" parts. That way
you won't have to do it again. My BJ8 was factory equipped with a diaphragm
clutch, and it had no center retaining ring. As such, one of the diaphragm
plates could stick---and that was the end of it.
In contrast, the heavy-duty replacement that I bought at the time had a
central retaining rig that prevented any of the individual diaphragm springs
from popping out. I don't know if you can still get these, or if all of the
new ones today include that.
Maybe someone else can comment (not sure if I'm using the proper
terminaology)?
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
Amateur Radio AI2Q
http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
.-.-.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of James Lea
Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2004 9:20 PM
To: List Healeys
Subject: Pulling my trans.
As soon as the weather warms up to 25 F or so I plan to pull my trans for an
overhaul. I have heard that you should always change the clutch plate while
you have the trans out. Is there anything else that I should check or
replace
while I can? Thanks, JL
James Lea
Rockport Maine
1962 BT7 II
from battery ground to chassis and try it again. I fought the original
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 09:12:49 -0600
Subject: Re: 100M starter
Mark
Nashville
BN1
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 10:55:50 -0500
Subject: Re: 100M starter
With all those Healeys I would pull the starter off one of them! :)
Seriously this guy on ebay sells gear reduction starters for Healeys and
other makes. They show up about every week or so and go for around $160.
No self interest or experience with them. Just trying to help.
Keith Pennell\
> I have a 100M with high compression pistons. The engine was rebuilt along
with
> the starter. The problem is that the starter doesn't have the power to
spin
> the engine properly. It will start but it turns over slowly. I did have a
> second rebuilt starter that I tried but it made no difference.
>
> Has anyone else had this problem and if so what did you do to correct it?
>
> TIA,
> Lynn Martin
> Post Falls, Idaho
> BJ7, (3) BT7s, BN7, BN6, BN4
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sasktel.net>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 10:04:37 -0600
Subject: Re: Power brake Retrofit Info Needed
Since I have the same kit (rear disc brakes) as you have,
I have the standard master brake cylinder for a BJ8 (i.e. the original),
I have no power booster. I have complete pedal pressure
with no slack. The braking of the BJ8 , i.e. power stops
from 60 mph to zero mph - braking as it should be
front discs over rears, no pulling and no chattering.
Part of the problem may be (and I mean may be) in the care in which one
changes and tops up the brake fluid, and the state of the
brake fluid - only observations.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
www.vintage-sportscar-touring.ca
'65 BJ8
'89 Morgan 4/4
Blue One Hundred wrote:
> Jack -
>
> The BJ8 master cylinder is sized SPECIFICALLY to work
> with a Brake Booster. If you don't have a brake
> booster on your car, the BJ8 brake master will take
> alot of pedal pressure to get the car to brake.
>
> Switch to a standard BT7 brake master and that should
> solve your problem
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '64 BJ8
>
> --- "Brashear, Jack, N"
> <JNBrashear@garverengineers.com> wrote:
>
>>Hi All, I adapted Cadillac rear disks to the rear of
>>my BT7 Mk2. The
>>brakes work very well now after I learned a few
>>things about GM calipers
>>and bias valves I didn't know before. Problem
>>is....I'm lazy and the
>>brakes take more "LEG" than stock before their super
>>stopping ability
>>kicks in. By the way, I'm using a BJ8 (7/8") master
>>cylinder. Has
>>anyone retrofitted non-Healey power brakes to their
>>AH?? Maybe
>>something obtainable at the U-Pull-It?? I seriously
>>want to look into
>>this and would appreciate some feedback from those
>>who have done so.
>>Many Thanks!!
>>
>>Jack
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 12:49:13 EST
Subject: Re: 100M starter
> a 100M with high compression pistons. The engine was rebuilt along with
> the starter. The problem is that the starter doesn't have the power to spin
> the engine properly. It will start but it turns over slowly. I did have a
> second rebuilt starter that I tried but it made no difference
Lynn--
Though higher compression will put more of a load on the starter, first
ensure that you do not have a problem with voltage to the starter--and that
includes grounding of the battery. High resistance in the starting circuit,
esp. in
the shut-off switch in the boot, is very common. Also check out the solenoid.
Assuming there is no problem here you may want to consider a gear-reduction
starter--I installed them on both my 100 Le Mans and my wife's 3000 and without
question they spin the engines over much faster--both start almost
instantaneously, even from cold.
Best--Michael Oritt
From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 10:23:54 -0800
Subject: battery switch
From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 10:35:44 -0800 (PST)
Subject: re. Re: Pulling my trans.
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 01:06:13 -0500
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@cox.net>
Subject:
...Rather than do that why not lighten it by 4 pounds
or so? My fly was lightened to around 21 pounds
by a local....
My .02
Keith Pennell
__________________________________
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free web site building tool. Try it!
http://webhosting.yahoo.com/ps/sb/
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 11:08:08 -0800
Subject: Re: 100M starter
One thing that happened to me years ago with a rebuilt starter - the
end-float of the armature in the starter case was inadvertently reduced to
zero. Starter appeared to be okay on the bench when spun by hand or when
power was put to it, but in the car, did exactly as you describe - had a
hell of a time cranking the engine most of the time.
Drove me nuts - all of the electrical bits seemed to be fine - grounds, etc.
Took the starter back to the rebuilder who quickly and easily restored a bit
of end-float - has worked like a damn ever since! The lesson - even a
slight drag in the starter itself causes it to have trouble overcoming it's
own inertia when trying to fire up a big Healey!
I doubt that this is your problem, because you have tried another starter,
but it's good for everyone to know about anyway.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BT7 tri-carb
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lynn Martin-Forever Healeys" <foreverhealeys@my180.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2004 7:51 PM
Subject: 100M starter
I have a 100M with high compression pistons. The engine was rebuilt along
with
the starter. The problem is that the starter doesn't have the power to spin
the engine properly. It will start but it turns over slowly. I did have a
second rebuilt starter that I tried but it made no difference.
Has anyone else had this problem and if so what did you do to correct it?
TIA,
Lynn Martin
Post Falls, Idaho
BJ7, (3) BT7s, BN7, BN6, BN4
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 11:53:36 -0800
Subject: Re: BJ7 Crankshaft rear oil seal kit
Will give this a try.
I have installed several rear seal kits from Dennis Welch - the older square
shaped seal housings (I believe that the current ones are round). When
properly installed - ie: virtually dead level, there is very little gasket
left when trimmed - 1/4" or less at the bottom centre.
It's possible that the SC housing is a bit larger, thus your problem. It
sounds as if your seal housing may not be level - is it one corner that is
hanging down too far? The exact clearance between the seal housing and the
engine rear plate is not crucial, as long as there is one. If the seal
housing is slightly rotated, it will still work as long as it is centered on
the crankshaft as per the instuctions in the kit.
About all you can do without trying a different seal kit or trying to
re-install that one, (both of which are probably not necessary) depending on
the cause of the problem, is modify the gasket as necessary, and use a good
sealer at the bottom where the gasket doesn't cover - it'l be right over the
rubber strip that seals the bearing cap is anyway.
My BJ8 engine is about to be re-assembled with the DW seal housing that has
already been on it for years (with a new rubber seal, of course). If you
need it, I could attempt to get some digital pics of it for you, but it may
be a few days - someone else is doing the engine for me and I'm not sure
that it is back from the machine shop yet - it's expected momentarily.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BT7 tri-carb
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "James E Austin" <ahbugeye1@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2004 4:40 PM
Subject: BJ7 Crankshaft rear oil seal kit
I'm in need of some input or instructions from someone who has installed
a SC6630
Crankshaft rear oil seal kit (mfg. by SC PARTS GROUP Ltd).
In preparation to paint my motor, I finally got around to installing a
new rear oil seal kit. When I purchased my car the seal kit came with
the other boxes of parts. The P.O. had already ground out the back
plate from the template that came with the kit. After drilling and
installing the seal per the instructions, I then made a trial mounting of
the back plate without the paper gasket that mounts between the plate and
the motor. It required a little more grinding on one side, which I did
and remounted. There is about 5/8" clearance on the bottom right-hand
side between the new oil seal and the ground out opening edge. The side
that required a little more grinding only has about a 1/8" clearance. I
don't have the template that he used so I don't know if this is correct.
The instructions say that a really tight fit is not necessary, but do not
machine too much away as insufficient support will be provided for the
gasket. The instructions then says: trim gasket to clear seal housing
and re-assemble. This is where my big worry lies. The mounting seal
housing extends down over the bottom of the block by about a quarter of
an inch. There is no room left for the paper gasket to fit, trimmed or
not. The gasket will have to be cut into and about 2 inches or more
removed. I realize this new seal is to stop the oil leak from the
crankshaft and there is part of the paper gasket that seals off the cam
opening, but knowing how much trouble it is to pull this motor again, I
sure would like to know if I am headed in the right direction or not.
Thanks so much,
Sam Austin
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 13:54:14 -0700
Subject: Re: 100M starter
I put on a gear reduction starter & never looked back, never regretted it.
Dave Russell
BN2
Lynn Martin-Forever Healeys wrote:
> I have a 100M with high compression pistons. The engine was rebuilt along with
> the starter. The problem is that the starter doesn't have the power to spin
> the engine properly. It will start but it turns over slowly. I did have a
> second rebuilt starter that I tried but it made no difference.
>
> Has anyone else had this problem and if so what did you do to correct it?
>
> TIA,
> Lynn Martin
> Post Falls, Idaho
> BJ7, (3) BT7s, BN7, BN6, BN4
From Dave Gay <dgay at simoncontractors.com>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 14:07:56 -0700
Subject: 100 parts
Dave
From "John R. Draxler" <jdrax at tds.net>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 15:36:03 -0600
Subject: Pertronix hook up
Installing a pertronix a customer brought in with no papers
There is a black wire and a black/white wire
Where do they go?
Got this unit from moss as I understand it
Brand on the unit is ignitor
-----------------------------------------------------------
Thunderbird Ranch 7158 Highway B Pittsville, WI 54466
Ph 715-884-6546 (9-5 central ) fax 715-884-6720 jdrax@tds.net
http://www.tbirdranch.com (Subscribe to my free newsletter on my website)
And now a second website........ http://www.tbirdhelp.com
Have a terrific day and may God guide your footsteps.
From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 15:41:44 -0600
Subject: RE: Power brake Retrofit Info Needed -postscript
-----Original Message-----
From: M.E. & E.A. Driver [mailto:edriver@sasktel.net]
Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2004 2:11 PM
To: Blue One Hundred
Cc: Brashear, Jack, N; Healey List
Subject: Re: Power brake Retrofit Info Needed -postscript
Hi Alan
Forgot to mention I did not install a proportioning valve
either.
A friend and I have discussed Jack's problem. Since he is using a
mixed system - the GM rear disc brakes are single piston
and of larger diameter than the front girling ones on his BT7
this leads to many interesting possibilities.
There are more than two caliper types used on Cadillacs but
the most common are the ones on the Seville which have
2.5 or 2.94 in pistons and the Eldorado with 2.125 pistons.
The two smaller sized GM caliper pistons should
provide between 56 to 65% of the braking up front - this
should give basically the same pedal feel as the original setup;
while the largest will account for 77% up front and
would give a hard pedal feel.
Whereas on our BJ8s the rear caliper pistons are smaller
than the ones at the front with a result approximately 62%
of the braking at the front., and I find no excessive pedal
pressure or the need for a booster.
I'm not sure switching to a BJ8 master brake cylinder and
a booster will solve his problem . There are other variables in
this that have not been mentioned these include the surface
area of the brake pads front to rear, the type of pad material
(soft vs metallic) and the actual sense of "feel" of braking. It
is a real interesting problem.
Finally if Jack went to GM calipers at the four corners may be
the problem would disappear - only teasing Jack!
Kind regards
Ed
Blue One Hundred wrote:
> Jack -
>
> The BJ8 master cylinder is sized SPECIFICALLY to work
> with a Brake Booster. If you don't have a brake
> booster on your car, the BJ8 brake master will take
> alot of pedal pressure to get the car to brake.
>
> Switch to a standard BT7 brake master and that should
> solve your problem
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '64 BJ8
>
> --- "Brashear, Jack, N"
> <JNBrashear@garverengineers.com> wrote:
>
>>Hi All, I adapted Cadillac rear disks to the rear of
>>my BT7 Mk2. The
>>brakes work very well now after I learned a few
>>things about GM calipers
>>and bias valves I didn't know before. Problem
>>is....I'm lazy and the
>>brakes take more "LEG" than stock before their super
>>stopping ability
>>kicks in. By the way, I'm using a BJ8 (7/8") master
>>cylinder. Has
>>anyone retrofitted non-Healey power brakes to their
>>AH?? Maybe
>>something obtainable at the U-Pull-It?? I seriously
>>want to look into
>>this and would appreciate some feedback from those
>>who have done so.
>>Many Thanks!!
>>
>>Jack
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 13:58:22 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: re. Re: Pulling my trans.
Yes, this conversion is quite common. The BJ8 uses a
diaphram clutch which has a much easier and quicker
feel. In addition it places even pressure on the
plate helping to make it last longer with street
driving. That's the theory at least.
Regards,
'55 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- joe mulqueen <joemulqueen@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Don't some people also convert their flywheel to
> accept a BJ8 clutch for some reason?
> JoeM
> '60 BT7
> Torrance, CA
>
>
> Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 01:06:13 -0500
> From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@cox.net>
> Subject:
>
> ...Rather than do that why not lighten it by 4
> pounds
> or so? My fly was lightened to around 21 pounds
> by a local....
> My .02
> Keith Pennell
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 14:02:02 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Power brake Retrofit Info Needed
You are right. My friend here in Hong Kong with his
BT7 hadn't changed his fluid in probably 20 years and
the calipers were all gunked up with crud and braking
.... well, it was like stopping a freight train.
Cleaned the brake system and now it brakes like a
champ.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver@sasktel.net> wrote:
> Hi Alan
>
> Since I have the same kit (rear disc brakes) as you
> have,
> I have the standard master brake cylinder for a BJ8
> (i.e. the original),
> I have no power booster. I have complete pedal
> pressure
> with no slack. The braking of the BJ8 , i.e. power
> stops
> from 60 mph to zero mph - braking as it should be
> front discs over rears, no pulling and no
> chattering.
> Part of the problem may be (and I mean may be) in
> the care in which one
> changes and tops up the brake fluid, and the state
> of the
> brake fluid - only observations.
>
> Kind regards
> Ed
> Saskatoon
> www.vintage-sportscar-touring.ca
> '65 BJ8
> '89 Morgan 4/4
From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 14:58:55 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: re. Re: Pulling my trans.
--- Blue One Hundred
<international_investor@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Joe -
>
> Yes, this conversion is quite common. The BJ8 uses
> a
> diaphram clutch which has a much easier and quicker
> feel. In addition it places even pressure on the
> plate helping to make it last longer with street
> driving. That's the theory at least.
>
> Regards,
>
> '55 BN1 '64 BJ8
>
> --- joe mulqueen <joemulqueen@yahoo.com> wrote:
> > Don't some people also convert their flywheel to
> > accept a BJ8 clutch for some reason?
> > JoeM
> > '60 BT7
> > Torrance, CA
> >
> >
> > Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 01:06:13 -0500
> > From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@cox.net>
> > Subject:
> >
> > ...Rather than do that why not lighten it by 4
> > pounds
> > or so? My fly was lightened to around 21 pounds
> > by a local....
> > My .02
> > Keith Pennell
>
__________________________________
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free web site building tool. Try it!
http://webhosting.yahoo.com/ps/sb/
From "David" <dcrawfor at san.rr.com>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 15:01:09 -0800
Subject: BN100 rear brake cylindar
I have an early BN1 with a spiral bevel type rear end.
The left rear wheel brake cylinder assembly is frozen
and Moss (021-158) shows N/A. They do have a repair
kit, but I was wondering if anyone had an extra assembly
on a shelf in their garage.
Your best advice is so appreciated.
Hopeful in San Diego... .
David Crawford
From "Vink, Graham" <vinkg at fleishman.com>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 17:10:52 -0600
Subject: RE: Seeking Direction ... and a used BMW question
I bought my big Healey (63 BJ7) 10 years ago from a guy in Seattle when
I was living in Spokane, and there was a member of the Cascade Austin
Healey Club who checked it out for me first (I think I paid him a fee,
since I wasn't a member).
Also, you should spend a lot of time on E-Bay Motors, looking at photos,
cars and prices. You can also do a search of completed auctions, which
lets you know which auctions were actually successful. Ditto for
Collector Car Trader, Hemmings and the Sunday auto ads in the Seattle
Times.
A few suggestions:
-buy the make and model that pushes your button for whatever reason.
Triumphs, Healeys and Jaguars do it for me; MGs and Morgans don't. Mazda
RX7s and older BMWs do; Fiats and Alfas don't, (even though I have a
really nice Alfa Spyder right now). Buy what makes your heart beat
faster. (Personally, I don't like Bugeyes because of the wimpy MG
engines, which IMHO don't produce enough power for high-speed touring,
which is what I like to do.)
-buy the best example that you can afford. This is almost ALWAYS cheaper
in the long run. Let the other guy take a bath on his restoration,
instead of you.
-if you have to choose between mediocre mechanicals and rusty body,
choose the car with the mediocre mechanicals. They are usually CHEAPER
to fix, plus you can do a lot of the work yourself. Also, a little
visible rust frequently leads to a lot of invisible rust. Body work is
expensive; custom repairs to 40-year-old cars are REALLY expensive.
-assume that whatever car you buy, there will be some things wrong with
it that you didn't expect - hopefully, fairly cheap things and not
expensive things. Also assume that the previous owner didn't tell you a
couple of things that just, maybe, possibly he could have (leaking
heater cores come to mind!). Take such things in stride.
-evaluate the owner, not just the car. If the person seems
knowledgeable, candid and enthusiastic, that's a very good sign. If he
"doesn't know" or is "selling for a friend" or "lost the paperwork,"
then you might be more cautious. If it's a car dealer, they probably
know little about the car (and often prefer not to know!).
Your best asset, when you get serious about a car, is other enthusiasts.
Get on the appropriate list, tell them about the car you're considering,
and see what they say. If you get really serious, see if you can find a
local enthusiast to check out the car for you, or give advice. When I
bought my big Healey in Seattle, all the club members knew the car and
the owner, so I knew exactly what I was getting.
Hmmn, on a related topic, I could use some car-buying advice (even
though this isn't a BMW list). A guy is selling a 1987 BMW 5-series for
about $300 and would just as soon see it go to an enthusiast (moi). It
runs, has mostly new suspension (REALLY expensive on BMWs), engine
allegedly OK, some allegedly cosmetic-only rust on fender, good
interior, manual transmission, about 165k miles (which is fairly low for
a 6-cylinder BMW - I have a 1988 7 series with 265k miles, though not
the original engine). I'm trying to decide if I need another project, or
if I should do the SMART thing and walk away.
Advice?
-Graham
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Poague [mailto:rapoague@gte.net]
Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2004 12:21 PM
To: HealeyList
Subject: Re: Seeking Direction
K.C. Morgan,
If you haven't already, be sure to visit the Cascade Austin Healey Club
website at http://www.homestead.com/cascadeahc/home.html. In my personal
opinion, you should go for the best 3000 you can find and afford.
Bob Poague
Olympia, WA
----- Original Message -----
From: "K.C. Morgan" <kc_morgan@jetemail.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 26, 2004 4:05 PM
Subject: Seeking direction.
> Howdy list,
> Im a total neophyte when in comes to car collecting\restoring, but
> I
would like to change that. I love the style of LBC and AHs are close to
my heart, as my mother has told many stories about her little Sprite (A
red
Mark II) she had in high school*. Now its my turn to make some
stories,
but my question is where to start? I have read the Healey club website,
and been a lurker on this list for a while, however I still have the
most basic of questions. Such as, where is the best place to look for a
car (eBay, Hemmings, the local paper?), what is a fair price (everyone
seems to price off the 1 footer in the price guide), what is acceptable
rust? Im a tinker and pretty good with a wrench, but I dont think Im
ready (nor have time) for a total rebuild either. Should I follow my
dream of owning a big Healey (I love the BN1 and 2s) or start with a
Spridget? Any help, encouragement (or discouragement for that matter)
would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thank you,
> -K.C. Morgan
> Seattle, WA
> Wall flower at the Healey dance.
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 15:13:06 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: BJ7 Crankshaft rear oil seal kit
When I rebuilt my engine, I installed a "round" seal
kit from AHSpares (looks just like the one Moss
pictured) but I don't think it helped at all. Still
leaks.
There must be something I missed? The instructions
seemed straight forward... What is the hot tip.
Dean BN7 (always learning...)
>
> I have installed several rear seal kits
__________________________________
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free web site building tool. Try it!
http://webhosting.yahoo.com/ps/sb/
From kate oleary <kaoleary at comcast.net>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 17:45:56 -0600
Subject: uk event
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 18:09:33 -0700
Subject: Re: Pertronix hook up
Dave Russell
BN2
John R. Draxler wrote:
> Hi
>
> Installing a pertronix a customer brought in with no papers
>
> There is a black wire and a black/white wire
>
> Where do they go?
>
> Got this unit from moss as I understand it
>
> Brand on the unit is ignitor
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 17:32:23 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: BN100 rear brake cylindar
Moss is a specialist in British cars, but
unfortunately they ARE NOT a specialist in Austin
Healeys.
Since you have an early BN1 that has alot of odd ball
and hard to find parts, you should buy parts for this
car from Austin Healey Specialists. These rear
cylinders and most other oddball BN1 parts are widely
available new if you know where to go.
I just checked AH Spares and they list this item new.
Always replace brake components with new units, not
rebuilds or used. Their website:
www.ahspares.co.uk
you can also try a couple suppliers in the US who I
know will have it:
www.britishcarspecialists.com
and (no website):
Hemphill's Healey Haven
4-B Winters Lane
Catonsville MD 21228
(800) 9HEALEY
also these guys in the UK will have it too:
www.cape-international.com
www.bighealey.com
Good Luck,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- David <dcrawfor@san.rr.com> wrote:
> Listers,
>
> I have an early BN1 with a spiral bevel type rear
> end.
> The left rear wheel brake cylinder assembly is
> frozen
> and Moss (021-158) shows N/A. They do have a repair
> kit, but I was wondering if anyone had an extra
> assembly
> on a shelf in their garage.
>
> Your best advice is so appreciated.
>
> Hopeful in San Diego... .
>
> David Crawford
From "Rick" <webmasterrick at comcast.net>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 19:32:00 -0600
Subject: 18G
"
Anybody have a phone number other that 410-869-0606 (disconnected) for Doug
Reid??
Mail box is full and cannot get thru. YES, I know he "closed" up and
"moved" shop AND took some sorta job.!?!?!?
Thanks...
Ed
"
Rick
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 17:34:13 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: BJ7 Crankshaft rear oil seal kit
Did you replace the font seal of your gearbox too?
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- Dean Caccavo <healeybn7@yahoo.com> wrote:
> I am very interested in the outcome of this thread.
>
>
> When I rebuilt my engine, I installed a "round" seal
> kit from AHSpares (looks just like the one Moss
> pictured) but I don't think it helped at all. Still
> leaks.
>
> There must be something I missed? The instructions
> seemed straight forward... What is the hot tip.
>
> Dean BN7 (always learning...)
> >
> > I have installed several rear seal kits
>
> __________________________________
> Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free web site building tool.
> Try it!
> http://webhosting.yahoo.com/ps/sb/
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 17:36:27 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Pertronix hook up
Do you know if the unit is for a negative or positive
ground car? That we need to know first.
Also, different ignitor units hook up completely
differently depending on what healey they are for.
What healey are you hooking this up to?
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- "John R. Draxler" <jdrax@tds.net> wrote:
> Hi
>
> Installing a pertronix a customer brought in with no
> papers
>
> There is a black wire and a black/white wire
>
> Where do they go?
>
> Got this unit from moss as I understand it
>
> Brand on the unit is ignitor
>
>
>
-----------------------------------------------------------
> Thunderbird Ranch 7158 Highway B Pittsville, WI
> 54466
> Ph 715-884-6546 (9-5 central ) fax 715-884-6720
> jdrax@tds.net
> http://www.tbirdranch.com (Subscribe to my free
> newsletter on my website)
> And now a second website........
> http://www.tbirdhelp.com
>
> Have a terrific day and may God guide your
> footsteps.
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sasktel.net>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 20:04:09 -0600
Subject: More Power Brake Retro
Well my buddy Pat and I have spent a bit more time on
your question - we have one for you, the the '82 Camaro
calipers single or double piston like some of the Vets?
If they are double piston similar to the Girling that
are in the front then 98% of your braking will be up
front and extremely hard push. Also if the Camaro
caliper is similar to the Vet, double piston, then they
have to be bled on the bench, you might want to
check a service manual on this point.
On the other hand if the Camaro is a single piston
then about 51% of your braking is at the rear and
both Pat and I agree a booster would work .
Kind regards
Ed
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 18:41:09 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: BJ7 Crankshaft rear oil seal kit
I think I can rule out the gearbox.
I installed a Smitty 5sp and filled it with Redline.
Unfortunately it will leave behind a red dot every
once in a while - I concluded it must be a sympathy
leak being surrounded by so much British iron.
Dean BN7
--- Blue One Hundred
<international_investor@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Dean -
>
> Did you replace the font seal of your gearbox too?
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '64 BJ8
>
> --- Dean Caccavo <healeybn7@yahoo.com> wrote:
> > I am very interested in the outcome of this
> thread.
> >
__________________________________
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free web site building tool. Try it!
http://webhosting.yahoo.com/ps/sb/
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 20:14:42 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: BJ7 Crankshaft rear oil seal kit
some other questions then:
1) did you put the seal's split facing up or down?
2) did you replace the sump gasket?
3) is your oil guage line leaking maybe?
4) are you sure the oil is coming out the bell housing
and not somewhere else?
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- Dean Caccavo <healeybn7@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Alan -
>
> I think I can rule out the gearbox.
>
> I installed a Smitty 5sp and filled it with Redline.
>
> Unfortunately it will leave behind a red dot every
> once in a while - I concluded it must be a sympathy
> leak being surrounded by so much British iron.
>
> Dean BN7
>
> --- Blue One Hundred
> <international_investor@yahoo.com> wrote:
> > Dean -
> >
> > Did you replace the font seal of your gearbox too?
> >
> > Alan
> >
> > '53 BN1 '64 BJ8
> >
> > --- Dean Caccavo <healeybn7@yahoo.com> wrote:
> > > I am very interested in the outcome of this
> > thread.
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 20:35:14 -0800
Subject: Paint Source
Terry Blubaugh
Diamond Bar, CA
From R5SPEED at aol.com
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 23:42:25 EST
Subject: Re: BJ7 Crankshaft rear oil seal kit
IF YOU COME UP WITH A REAR MAIN SEAL THAT WORKS YOU WILL BECOME A RICH MAN
SMITTY
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 20:51:25 -0800
Subject: Re: BJ7 Crankshaft rear oil seal kit
Healeys leak oil - all you can do is take steps to minimize the flow. Look
at it this way: What better way to ensure that the undercarriage doesn't
rust!
To be serious - My BJ8 with the rear seal kit installed, (and a Toyota
gearbox which did not leak) still had a drip from the bottom of the engine
rear plate area. Close inspection showed that most of the oil was coming
from the top - the rear of the valve cover, and a bit from around the rear
tappet cover. Leaks from these areas tend to run down the edge of the rear
plate and then back in towards the centre of the engine and drip off the
plate - sometimes it's really hard to tell where the oil is coming from, or
for that matter, if it's coming from everywhere!
If your rear seal kit was properly installed, check for leaks in these other
areas. If you wind up getting the oil drips sort of minimized, you've won.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BT7 tri-carb
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>; "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2004 3:13 PM
Subject: Re: BJ7 Crankshaft rear oil seal kit
I am very interested in the outcome of this thread.
When I rebuilt my engine, I installed a "round" seal
kit from AHSpares (looks just like the one Moss
pictured) but I don't think it helped at all. Still
leaks.
There must be something I missed? The instructions
seemed straight forward... What is the hot tip.
Dean BN7 (always learning...)
From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 21:59:10 -0800
Subject: Re: backfiring
Mitch,
Engines can backfire during operation depending on the mode (deceleration,
acceleration, etc.) if there are air leaks in the intake or exhaust systems.
To check for exhaust leaks, start the car from cold and immediately place
your hand close to all the exhaust joints to feel for an unwanted hot air
stream. Not to close though or you will burn yourself. Be careful because
any metal heats up fast and unwanted engine exhaust near any manifold or
joint will be hot too). Please note that it is extremely difficult to not
touch any metal, be careful and fast with your hands and decide how much
pain you can endure. I am not sure how to check for intake leaks. You may
need to take it back to the garage to fix the leaks for any items the
mechanic worked on.
That's my $1 worth (inflation)
John
'62 BT7
From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 21:33:38 -0800
Subject: Fuel tank part needed
I would like to find an original pick-up pipe assembly.
The part is the brass piece from the fuel line attachment point to it's
termination point,
with screen, inside the tank. Good to excellent condition us preferred.
Given all the rusted healey tanks out there, would anyone have one from an
usable tank?
I am willing to buy it, please contact me off-list.
TIA
John
'62 BT7
From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 21:19:29 -0800
Subject: Antiseize; was Re: Fw: Screwed
Hi list,
I am a little bit familiar with anti-seize but don't really know when or
when not to use it on a Healey I am restoring.
Which is shorter, the list of where to use it or the list of where not to
use it|?
Does anyone have a list, guidelines, suggestions as how to figure this out?
Please share this information with the list.
When it comes to screwing I have always been a tighter is better guy.
(Double entendre intended!)
For the ladies on the list, please forgive me I am just a typical guy.
Well, maybe not I clean house and cook.
John
San Jose, CA
From "Len and/or Marge" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 22:32:37 -0800
Subject: Re: BJ7 Crankshaft rear oil seal kit
When my engine was rebuilt several years ago, my engine builder suggested
the use of the old fashioned graphite impregnated 'rope' (I can't remember
its correct name but NAPA calls it 'Rear Main Seal Set'). His theory was
that it would not require precision placement since clamping down on the
seal would cause it to conform to the crank shaft even if the retainer was
slightly off center. I had a retainer made to secure the seal to the rear
of the engine.
Unfortunately, I have a leak but it is the transmission doing it. I know
this because I put die in the transmission and that is what is coming out
of the bell housing. Once that leak is resolved, I will be able to tell
how well the engine seal is holding up.
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA
1967 3000 MKIII HBJ8L39031
> [Original Message]
> From: <R5SPEED@aol.com>
> To: <international_investor@yahoo.com>; <healeybn7@yahoo.com>;
<kags@shaw.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 1/29/2004 8:43:34 PM
> Subject: Re: BJ7 Crankshaft rear oil seal kit
>
> DEAN
>
> IF YOU COME UP WITH A REAR MAIN SEAL THAT WORKS YOU WILL BECOME A RICH
MAN
>
> SMITTY
From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 00:50:19 -0600
Subject: Re: Antiseize; was Re: Fw: Screwed
One area I can think of offhand is manifold studs, particularly the exhaust
manifold, I don't know if anti-seize would help here (would it just burn or
melt off?) but it is worth a try I suppose, second area I can think of is
wire wheels supposedly these can be adjusted by loosening and tightening
spokes, all the spokes I have ever encountered have been seized on the
nipple and no amount of heat or penetrating oil makes a difference, once
again don't know if anti seize would help here, or whether it would allow
the spokes to self adjust?
Anyway overall, if your car is going to lead a sheltered life and you don't
live next to the ocean and salt or plan to drive in winter conditions maybe
not a big issue generally speaking.
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
> >(If only the last guy had used antiseize compound!)
> >
> >Earl Kagna
>
> Hi list,
>
> I am a little bit familiar with anti-seize but don't really know when or
> when not to use it on a Healey I am restoring.
>
> Which is shorter, the list of where to use it or the list of where not to
> use it|?
>
> Does anyone have a list, guidelines, suggestions as how to figure this
out?
>
> Please share this information with the list.
>
> When it comes to screwing I have always been a tighter is better guy.
> (Double entendre intended!)
>
> For the ladies on the list, please forgive me I am just a typical guy.
> Well, maybe not I clean house and cook.
>
> John
> San Jose, CA
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 01:12:32 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Antiseize; was Re: Fw: Screwed
Permatex Anti-Seize is formulated to be used on boiler
parts and high temperature steam applications. It
does not deteriorate in high heat or moisture. It is
perfect for use with manifold components and gaskets.
We used to use it all the time when I worked as a
Roustabout at the Geysers for Union Oil... we did all
the Geothermal steam piping for PG&E. That stuff...
no matter how long it was on a gasket or bolt...
always stood up to that nasty steam (which is full of
sulfuric acid).
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- Greg Lemon <glemon@neb.rr.com> wrote:
> I don't have an answer to your question, but a
> general comment and some
> suggestions, used to be my cars were driven year
> round in the midwest in the
> ice and snow and salt of winter, anything on the
> underside of the cars would
> tend to seize from corrosion over time. Nowadays,
> when my British cars have
> led fairly sheltered life, pretty much anything I
> have had apart, even if
> not touched for years, comes back apart fairly
> easily, with no seizure of
> nuts and threads.
>
> One area I can think of offhand is manifold studs,
> particularly the exhaust
> manifold, I don't know if anti-seize would help here
> (would it just burn or
> melt off?) but it is worth a try I suppose, second
> area I can think of is
> wire wheels supposedly these can be adjusted by
> loosening and tightening
> spokes, all the spokes I have ever encountered have
> been seized on the
> nipple and no amount of heat or penetrating oil
> makes a difference, once
> again don't know if anti seize would help here, or
> whether it would allow
> the spokes to self adjust?
>
> Anyway overall, if your car is going to lead a
> sheltered life and you don't
> live next to the ocean and salt or plan to drive in
> winter conditions maybe
> not a big issue generally speaking.
>
> Greg Lemon
> 54 BN1
>
> > >(If only the last guy had used antiseize
> compound!)
> > >
> > >Earl Kagna
> >
> > Hi list,
> >
> > I am a little bit familiar with anti-seize but
> don't really know when or
> > when not to use it on a Healey I am restoring.
> >
> > Which is shorter, the list of where to use it or
> the list of where not to
> > use it|?
> >
> > Does anyone have a list, guidelines, suggestions
> as how to figure this
> out?
> >
> > Please share this information with the list.
> >
> > When it comes to screwing I have always been a
> tighter is better guy.
> > (Double entendre intended!)
> >
> > For the ladies on the list, please forgive me I am
> just a typical guy.
> > Well, maybe not I clean house and cook.
> >
> > John
> > San Jose, CA
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 02:22:10 -0700
Subject: Re: Antiseize; was Re: Fw: Screwed
I think that the moly works better than graphite or copper based compounds.
Dave Russell
BN2
john spaur wrote:
> At 05:47 PM 1/17/04 -0800, Earl Kagna wrote:
>
>> Bob:
>>
>> (If only the last guy had used antiseize compound!)
>>
>> Earl Kagna
>
>
> Hi list,
>
> I am a little bit familiar with anti-seize but don't really know when or
> when not to use it on a Healey I am restoring.
>
> Which is shorter, the list of where to use it or the list of where not
> to use it|?
>
> Does anyone have a list, guidelines, suggestions as how to figure this out?
>
> Please share this information with the list.
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at westnet.com.au>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 21:27:42 +0800
Subject: weber carbie installations
I currently have a 1959 3000 that I use in tarmac rallies amongst other things
and am trying to decide how I can upgrade the engine for more power.
I am proposing to enter the 'Classic Adelaide' this year.
http://www.classicadelaide.com.au This is a tarmac rally along the same lines
as Targa Tasmania and Targa Newfoundland.
The regulations for the tarmac rally exclude me from the 'Standard
Specification' group even though I use the car in circuit racing as a
'production sports car'. My non standard items at present include 2 x 2" SU's
and extractors and a Texas cooler fan.
The next category up is 'Limited Specification' and in this group I will be up
against 3000's that are basically Works Rally Replicas with triple webers,
steel cranks, four wheel disc brakes with adjustable brake bias etc etc.
I am trying to decide whether to upgrade to triple webers or triple 2" SU's
just so I can have a better go and not end up too far down the field of
'Limited Specification'
>From the information I have to date - to install a 'works' weber manifold and
carbs requires panel work to the inner guard and removal of the shroud support
and very poor access to the air filters without reworking the shroud.
Dennis Welch advises that his manifold if different to the 'works' manifold in
that the runners are shorter and the carbs will be inclined 16 degrees but
the shroud support will still have to be removed. See
http://www.bighealey.co.uk/new%20healey/healey02/Healey%20fuel%201.htm
I believe that there are some other weber manifolds available that don't
require any modifications.
Has anyone on the list had any experience with these?
What are the pros and cons of triple webers versus triple SU's.
Any constructive thoughts would be appreciated.
TIA and regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia.
PS. Did you know that the Australian National Rally for 2004 is being held at
Albany, Western Australia from April 2 to April 5. Hope to see some of you
there.
whether I should
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
From type79 at ix.netcom.com
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 09:48:47 -0500
Subject: ebay 100 "S" Auction
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6023&item=2455490023
jay fishbein
wallingford, ct
http://home.ix.netcom.com/~type79/
From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 07:44:50 -0800
Subject: Re: Paint Source
Randy Zoller
Heritage Motorsports
1433 Pioneer Way
El Cajon, CA. 92020
(619) 447-0025
(888) 535-1516
trihard@cts.com
Skip Ylhainen
Ron's Auto Body & Restorations
1604 La Mirada Dr. #107
San Marcos, CA. 92069
(760) 744-3540
fax (760) 744-3917
www.ronrestore.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2004 8:35 PM
Subject: Paint Source
> Our 2nd Healey is ready for a little Old English White paint work.
> Anyone have a good body shop recommendation in the San Diego area?
Thanks.
>
> Terry Blubaugh
> Diamond Bar, CA
From James E Austin <ahbugeye1 at juno.com>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 10:59:07 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ7 Crankshaft rear oil seal kit
Thanks for your response. Healey oil leaks seem to generate a lot of
interest. It always amazes me the kindness and interest that members of
this lists show to each question, especially questions from those who
don't posses the expertise that many of the members do.
The SC seal housing is a circular two piece assembly whose outside
diameter is about the size of the rear end of the crankshaft( by the way,
there is one of these kits up for auction on ebay). When mounted to the
motor there is very little adjustment; only enough to let you center the
rubber seal on the crankshaft. As I had stated in my original inquiry,
the circular housing edge covers about 1-1/4" of the bottom of the rear
main bearing cap, which leaves no room for the paper seal to mount. So
for myself, I have concluded that Bob Yule's response that says you have
to cut the gasket is right on. I just didn't have enough guts to go any
further, sitting, looking a that large hole and thinking about cutting a
gasket into, I had to call for help. I did try SC Parts Group Ltd. via
the Internet but did not find a way to ask this question. I'm sure there
is a way. Thanks to all who responded.
Sam Austin
From "James Shope" <healeymanjim at JoiMail.com>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 08:28:42 -0800
Subject: electric fans
From "James Shope" <healeymanjim at JoiMail.com>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 08:54:44 -0800
Subject: rear mail seal
From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 12:27:19 -0600
Subject: Fw: ebay 100 "S" Auction
From type79 at ix.netcom.com
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 14:24:43 -0500
Subject: Re: Fw: ebay 100 "S" Auction
jay fishbein
wallingford, ct
http://home.ix.netcom.com/~type79/
>>
>>>Appears ebay pulled Mark Cooke's auction. Doesn't even appear in their
>>>database which I believe means ebay pulled it, as opposed to just being
>>>ended early by the seller.
>>>
>>>
>>
>
>http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6023&item=2455490023
From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 14:30:56 -0600
Subject: Re: 60's dash plaques?
They probably don't appear in the earlier pics because he acquired them
only recently."
jay fishbein
wallingford, ct
http://home.ix.netcom.com/~type79/
"What! i don't sell ANYTHING!!
Who do you think i am ...........Doug Flagg???"
HoYo
From "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyingb at surewest.net>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 13:46:28 -0800
Subject: Healey for sale in Orlando
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6023&item=2
457468103
Thanks
Jerry
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 14:03:00 -0800
Subject: Re: Antiseize; was Re: Fw: Screwed
Well ------------------------- don't know what to say - anti seize works
well for unscrewing, the other I leave to you! Anti seize might be a little
counter-productive there, no? Hmmm, on the other hand -----------------
To be serious, common sense is the best way to go - I use the stuff on most
fasteners when I'm building up a car, or doing repairs to an already built
car - it's messy, but it really does help the 'next' guy, who might even be
you!
Some known trouble spots on Healeys - exhaust manifold nuts (always use
brass nuts + anti seize), all other exhaust mounting fasteners - especially
the nuts that are on the chassis studs, all heat shield mounting screws (
these thread into captive nuts on the chassis), the coolant temp gauge probe
in the head under the thermostat (don't overtighten this!), rear fender
mounting screws (the machine screws / nuts that secure the fender to the
shut pillar), brake / clutch pipe fittings - use very, very sparingly here
in order not to contaminate the brake fluid, suspension fasteners, bumper /
overrider fasteners, winshield corner bracket screws - very effective here,
the list goes on and on - you get the idea.
There really aren't too many places that I can think of that you would cause
damage if you use anti seize. There is nothing to be gained using it on the
fender flange bolts that thread into speed nuts, and of course, as another
lister pointed out, don't use it on fasteners where you will use a thread
locker liquid - those have to be completely free of grease, etc. to work. I
also don't bother on things like oil pan bolts - the engine will keep those
areas well oiled with leaks!
As for tighter is better - surely you're not the guy who torques British
bolts by the rule of: 'tighten it 'till it snaps, then back it off a
quarter turn'. Better not do that - it'l rattle like hell on railroad track
crossings!
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BT7 tri-carb
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "john spaur" <jmsdarch@infoasis.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2004 9:19 PM
Subject: Antiseize; was Re: Fw: Screwed
At 05:47 PM 1/17/04 -0800, Earl Kagna wrote:
>Bob:
>
>(If only the last guy had used antiseize compound!)
>
>Earl Kagna
Hi list,
I am a little bit familiar with anti-seize but don't really know when or
when not to use it on a Healey I am restoring.
Which is shorter, the list of where to use it or the list of where not to
use it|?
Does anyone have a list, guidelines, suggestions as how to figure this out?
Please share this information with the list.
When it comes to screwing I have always been a tighter is better guy.
(Double entendre intended!)
For the ladies on the list, please forgive me I am just a typical guy.
Well, maybe not I clean house and cook.
John
San Jose, CA
From Bill Pollock <wjpollock at erols.com>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 18:10:56 -0500
Subject: gear box socket
Bill Pollock
From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 18:30:08 -0500
Subject: RE: Healey for sale in Orlando
One thought. If the car was lovingly restored, why in blazes are the chrome
spears installed backwards?
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
Amateur Radio AI2Q
http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
.-.-.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Jerry Costanzo
Sent: Friday, January 30, 2004 4:46 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Healey for sale in Orlando
Anybody seen this car close up with an opinion? It is in the Orlando area.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6023&item=
2
457468103
Thanks
Jerry
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 16:07:53 -0800
Subject: Re: Healey for sale in Orlando-backward spears
This seems to me a sign of the quick buck "resto" business.
These guys troll the country for barn cars, clean them up, blow a quick
paint job on them (perhaps very good, too), glue in a cheap interior,
can call it a restoration.
Or even a "loving restoration".
But when you get to the details, you can tell it was handled by someone
who knew little about Healeys.
That's not to say the car is necessarily a dog. If it has a great
frame, rust free body, and good motor and trans, hey, you're almost there!
Mine had backward spears, new head light rings, but not gaskets,
overdrive, but no relays, nicely refurbished original radiator, but no
fan shroud. It's all these little things that tell the shop's story.
My BT7 is frightfully strong and sound, but man, the tinker time I'm
putting into it is surprising. But that was the trade off. I didn't
have the extra $10,000 to get that "correctly" rather than just
"lovingly" restored car. And the basics are great. The paint is very
good, the frame and body are sound, the the engine is tops! Yeah, I can
do the insulation and rewiring, heater hoses, and ducts. But after
doing new floors an the 49 Plymouth woodie, I just was not ready for
another "fright pig", as someone said recently.
Mixing opinions and experience...
Brian N
http://beachcitygas.com/ixora.jpg
From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 19:29:41 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey for sale in Orlando
The owner told me in January 2000 that the body tag on the car does not match
the BMIHT certificate (which he provided a copy of for the BJ8 registry). Per
the eBay information, and in agreement with what the owner told me, the VIN of
the car is HBJ8L/32050. That number is a bit late for the car to have what
appears to be the glass parking/turnsignal lenses in front and the reflectors
and red glass lenses in back. The BMIHT certificate for 32050 says the body
number should be 76846. The body plate on this car is 73477, which matches
with VIN HBJ8L/28624. The engine serial number plate on the car is missing.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Jerry Costanzo
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Friday, January 30, 2004 4:46 PM
Subject: Healey for sale in Orlando
Anybody seen this car close up with an opinion? It is in the Orlando area.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6023&item
=2
457468103
Thanks
Jerry
From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 19:39:00 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey for sale in Orlando
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex" <alexmm@adelphia.net>
To: "'Jerry Costanzo'" <grumpyingb@surewest.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 30, 2004 6:30 PM
Subject: RE: Healey for sale in Orlando
| Hi Jerry:
|
| One thought. If the car was lovingly restored, why in blazes are the
chrome
| spears installed backwards?
|
| == Alex in Maine
| 1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
| Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
| Amateur Radio AI2Q
| http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
|
| .-.-.
|
|
|
| -----Original Message-----
| From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
| [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Jerry Costanzo
| Sent: Friday, January 30, 2004 4:46 PM
| To: healeys@autox.team.net
| Subject: Healey for sale in Orlando
|
|
| Anybody seen this car close up with an opinion? It is in the Orlando
area.
|
|
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6023&item=
| 2
| 457468103
|
| Thanks
|
| Jerry
|
From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 20:10:03 -0500
Subject: RE: Healey for sale in Orlando
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2456676800&cat
egory=6023
........... is billed as ""COMPLETELY ORIGINAL. ......... A TRUE SURVIVOR
!!! This vehicle is an outstanding example of owner care and maintenance. It
is in such good condition for a 39 year old original that it would be easy
to believe it had been restored at some point.""
Then why is the steering column grommet painted blue?
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
Amateur Radio AI2Q
http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
.-.-.
-----Original Message-----
From: Healeyolic [mailto:healey6@optonline.net]
Sent: Friday, January 30, 2004 7:39 PM
To: Alex; 'Jerry Costanzo'; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Healey for sale in Orlando
Perhaps someone heard the buzz. The listing has been cancelled.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 20:29:20 -0500
Subject: Re: Antiseize; was Re: Fw: Screwed
Correct me if I am wrong but I believe that stuff is finely divided lead in
a petroleum based emolient. This would explain the inactivity with steam
and sulfuric.
Keith Pennell
> Greg -
>
> That stuff...
> no matter how long it was on a gasket or bolt...
> always stood up to that nasty steam (which is full of
> sulfuric acid).
>
> Regards,
>
> Alan
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 19:33:35 -0600
Subject: Re: gear box socket
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 19:40:03 -0600
Subject: Re: weber carbie installations
From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 20:51:07 EST
Subject: Re: weber carbie installations
Rick
San Diego
From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 20:25:50 -0600
Subject: Crank Pulley Weld?
Thanks in Advance
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
From "Russ Bamsey" <rbamsey at rogers.com>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 21:51:33 -0500
Subject: Re: 100M starter
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 20:10:12 -0800
Subject: Re: gear box socket
http://www.britishtool.com/servtool.htm
'bout halfway down the page.
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <wjpollock@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 30, 2004 5:33 PM
Subject: Re: gear box socket
> believe norman nock, british car specialists, have them.
> Bill Pollock wrote:
> >
> > Does anyone know of a source for the socket that removes the gearbox
> > brass plug. Moss use to carry them several years ago,but not in their
> > current catloges.
> >
> > Bill Pollock
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 23:18:55 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey for sale in Orlando
That's only the beginning. Healey Blue cars never had black interiors. Those
seats and rear fold down panel are not BJ8 design, the door seals are the
large hollow bulb rubber things, the carpets on that gearbox tunnel sure
aren't original...it goes on.
Rich Chrysler
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 21:48:21 -0800
Subject: Re: Healey for sale in Orlando
Why not present it as a solid (mostly, don't like the looks of the rust on
the chassis), low-mileage driver?
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Alex" <alexmm@adelphia.net>; "'Healeyolic'" <healey6@optonline.net>;
"'Jerry Costanzo'" <grumpyingb@surewest.net>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 30, 2004 8:18 PM
Subject: Re: Healey for sale in Orlando
> > Similarly, the car on EBay 2456676800 ......
> >
> >
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2456676800&cat
> > egory=6023
> >
> > ........... is billed as ""COMPLETELY ORIGINAL. ......... A TRUE SURVIVOR
> > !!! This vehicle is an outstanding example of owner care and maintenance.
> It
> > is in such good condition for a 39 year old original that it would be easy
> > to believe it had been restored at some point.""
> >
> > Then why is the steering column grommet painted blue?
>
> That's only the beginning. Healey Blue cars never had black interiors. Those
> seats and rear fold down panel are not BJ8 design, the door seals are the
> large hollow bulb rubber things, the carpets on that gearbox tunnel sure
> aren't original...it goes on.
> Rich Chrysler
From "Lynn Martin-Forever Healeys" <foreverhealeys at my180.net>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 21:55:41 -0800
Subject: Re: 100M starter
Thanks to everyone for all the input.
Lynn
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@cox.net>
> Lynn,
>
> With all those Healeys I would pull the starter off one of them! :)
>
> Seriously this guy on ebay sells gear reduction starters for Healeys and
> other makes. They show up about every week or so and go for around $160.
> No self interest or experience with them. Just trying to help.
>
> Keith Pennell\
>
> > I have a 100M with high compression pistons. The engine was rebuilt
along
> with
> > the starter. The problem is that the starter doesn't have the power to
> spin
> > the engine properly. It will start but it turns over slowly. I did have
a
> > second rebuilt starter that I tried but it made no difference.
> >
> > Has anyone else had this problem and if so what did you do to correct
it?
> >
> > TIA,
> > Lynn Martin
> > Post Falls, Idaho
> > BJ7, (3) BT7s, BN7, BN6, BN4
From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2004 03:00:20 EST
Subject: Re: 100M starter
From John Harper <AH at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2004 11:27:59 +0000
Subject: Re: 100M starter
Back in the late 1960s I had a 100M engine in a A70 Hereford. This
allowed the starting handle to be used. I often started the engine by
hand with little difficulty. One had to be careful not to turn very
slowly around TDC because one could get a slight 'kickback' due to the
small amount of ignition advance. However a fairly smart pull was often
enough. Rarely was more than 4 half turns required if the jets were well
lowered.
What I am saying is that a 100 engine will start very easily using
little torque and at fairly low speeds which is why in my opinion the
standard starter is more than adequate.
Having said this perhaps there maybe a case for an uprated starter on a
six cylinder car. I have not personally tried to start one of these by
hand but I know people who did. For example the A95/105 came with a
starting handle in the tool kit and so I believe did all the following
Austin and Wolsley 6 cylinder saloons.
Uprated starters were fitted to similar diesel engines but then this
another matter all together
All the best
>One thing that caused similar cranking problems on a rebuilt starter several
>years ago was the careful paint job that the body and end plates were given
>prior to assembly. The bits did not have good electrical conductivity between
>them and the starter would not crank the motor. Scraped some of that
>nice green
>paint and epoxy primer off and it worked fine.
>Aloha
>Perry
--
John Harper
From Magnus Karlsson <492karlsson at telia.com>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2004 12:59:38 +0100
Subject: Re: 100M starter
>
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2004 07:26:24 -0600
Subject: RE: Fw: ebay 100 "S" Auction
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of type79@ix.netcom.com
Sent: Friday, January 30, 2004 1:25 PM
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Fw: ebay 100 "S" Auction
I guess this auction WAS ended for administrative reasons.
http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws1/eBayISAPI.dll?MfcISAPICommand=ViewBidItems&userid=m
ark_cooke&completed=0&sort=3&all=1&rows=25
jay fishbein
wallingford, ct
http://home.ix.netcom.com/~type79/ ***
From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Russ Bamsey" <rbamsey@rogers.com>
Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2004 07:55:16 -0700
Subject: Re: 100M starter
> The ring gear doesn4t have to be reversed. I have run my reduction gear
> starter for years so I know that it works in the long run as well.
>
> >
> Magnus Karlsson
> SWEDEN
From "Rick &7& Neves" <Rick at genomictechnologies.com>
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Russ Bamsey" <rbamsey@rogers.com>
Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2004 10:41:46 -0500
Subject: Installing Front suspension springs -- Any Tricks
Does anybody have any tricks on how to compress these coil springs other than
trying to figure out where to rent one of those fangled things?
Sincerely
Rick Neves
'56 BN-2
_._
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
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From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Russ Bamsey" <rbamsey@rogers.com>
Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2004 09:50:55 -0600
Subject: Fw: Healey for sale in Orlando
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Russ Bamsey" <rbamsey@rogers.com>
Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2004 08:40:16 -0800
Subject: Re: Installing Front suspension springs -- Any Tricks
Get some "allthread" (threaded rod) available at most hardware stores. Get the
thickest that will fit through the bolt holes, probably 3/8" dia. or thereabouts
(the thicker the stronger; ideally, get the same dia. as the bolt threads).
Currently, I use about a 9" length of the allthread (at each corner), with
appropriate
nuts and flat washers. Replace the spring bolts (there are 4) one at a time
with
the allthreads and the nuts/flatwashers and tighten (you can leave most of the
allthread on top to make it a little easier to gauge lengths). Once all the
bolts
have been replaced with allthread/nuts/washers, unscrew each a little in turn
to gradually release the spring pressure. You'll only need to back off about
3-4" before the spring pressure is gone. This is time-consuming and boring,
but it works. Be careful you don't unscrew any of the nuts entirely before the
spring pressure is relieved--the bottom nuts can unscrew when you unscrew the
top and vice versa. Keep hands and feet clear, just in case something comes
loose a little prematurely (I've never had this happen, but just in case ...).
Now that I have a good air compressor, the next time I do this I will shorten
the allthreads to about 6", as long as a) the height ("vertical thickness" ) of
the
A-arms, and b) 2X the depth of a deep socket for the nuts. This way, I can
back off the nuts using an air ratchet and deep socket and probably cut the
time required by 2/3.
This will require about $3-5, depending on whether you have the appropiate
nuts and flatwashers or not.
Assembly is the reverse of removal ;)
BTW, I bought some strut compressors for this job, but the springs are too
short and there's no room to use these properly.
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick &7& Neves" <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 31, 2004 7:41 AM
Subject: Installing Front suspension springs -- Any Tricks
> Yes I see the picture in the manual. But I don't have that kind of spring
> compressor. I got the kind that clamps to the coils.
>
> Does anybody have any tricks on how to compress these coil springs other than
> trying to figure out where to rent one of those fangled things?
>
>
> Sincerely
>
>
> Rick Neves
> '56 BN-2
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Russ Bamsey" <rbamsey@rogers.com>
Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2004 08:40:02 -0800
Subject: Re: Installing Front suspension springs -- Any Tricks
John Snyder
> Yes I see the picture in the manual. But I don't have that kind of spring
> compressor. I got the kind that clamps to the coils. Does anybody have any
tricks on how to compress these coil springs other than trying to figure out
where to rent one of those fangled things?
From "Alan Schultz" <alan at andysnet.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <type79@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2004 10:39:22 -0600
Subject: RE: Fw: ebay 100 "S" Auction
> Look at this part....
>
http://cgi3.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ReturnUserIdHistory&requested=mark
> _cooke
From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>; <type79@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2004 10:47:14 -0600
Subject: Re: Fw: ebay 100 "S" Auction
> What part? Link address is incorrect?
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
> To: <type79@ix.netcom.com>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, January 31, 2004 7:26 AM
> Subject: RE: Fw: ebay 100 "S" Auction
>
>
> > Look at this part....
> >
>
http://cgi3.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ReturnUserIdHistory&requested=mark
> > _cooke
From "Jim LeBlanc" <jleblanc at midsouth.rr.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>; <type79@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2004 10:48:42 -0600
Subject: RE: Crank Pulley Weld?
Best Regards,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Greg Lemon
Sent: Friday, January 30, 2004 8:26 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Crank Pulley Weld?
The main crank pulley on my BN1 engine has a crack in it, my local
mechanic
who is an experienced guy, saud it can be welded and repaired, is this
true?
it seems to be made of something closer to cast iron than metal, as far
as I
can tel an original item. Given the price of replacement I am fine with
welding as long as it would be a reliable fix.
Thanks in Advance
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
From "Jim LeBlanc" <jleblanc at midsouth.rr.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>; <type79@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2004 10:58:37 -0600
Subject: So Calif Healeys - Fine Living
Best Regards,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M
From "Scott Willis" <ahpowered at hotmail.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>; <type79@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2004 11:30:36 -0600
Subject: Hardened valve seats?
I hear different opinions. Should I go ahead and do it? If so, what and
where should I buy?
Oh, by the way, my car is COMPLETELY ORIGINAL except for the color,
interior, and all the new parts. I dabble in vintage guitars also and it can
be comical discussing originality. Some vintage guitar dealers are so good
they can tell a true 1964 Fender Strat by the smell. At least that's what
the dealer said. I passed on that one. It's tough to sniff a Healey on Ebay.
Cheers,
Scott
Mashed 60 BN7
From "Scott Willis" <ahpowered at hotmail.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>; <type79@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2004 11:33:15 -0600
Subject: Re: So Calif Healeys - Fine Living
Thanks!
~Scott
Mashed 60 BN7
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim LeBlanc" <jleblanc@midsouth.rr.com>
To: "austin healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 31, 2004 10:58 AM
Subject: So Calif Healeys - Fine Living
> Last night I enjoyed watching the Fine Living program on Austin Healeys,
> featuring the Austin-Healey Club of Southern California. Well done guys!
>
>
>
>
> Best Regards,
>
>
>
> Jim LeBlanc
>
> 1956 100-M
From "Jim LeBlanc" <jleblanc at midsouth.rr.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>; <type79@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2004 12:40:15 -0600
Subject: RE: So Calif Healeys - Fine Living
Hardened valve guides? After 5000 miles and 20 years the original type
guides work fine on my car. It is hard to believe it has been that long
and so few miles since head rebuild.
The program Fine Living is a channel on the satellite network.
Go to www.directtv.com and look under Programming then Program Guide see
channel 232. Unfortunately you can not look at last night's programming.
-----Original Message-----
From: Scott Willis [mailto:ahpowered@hotmail.com]
Sent: Saturday, January 31, 2004 11:33 AM
To: Jim LeBlanc; austin healey list
Subject: Re: So Calif Healeys - Fine Living
What is this program?
Thanks!
~Scott
Mashed 60 BN7
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim LeBlanc" <jleblanc@midsouth.rr.com>
To: "austin healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 31, 2004 10:58 AM
Subject: So Calif Healeys - Fine Living
> Last night I enjoyed watching the Fine Living program on Austin
Healeys,
> featuring the Austin-Healey Club of Southern California. Well done
guys!
>
>
>
>
> Best Regards,
>
>
>
> Jim LeBlanc
>
> 1956 100-M
From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>; <type79@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2004 14:32:26 EST
Subject: Re: Fw: ebay 100 "S" Auction
Rick
San Diego
In a message dated 1/31/04 5:28:13 AM, kpdii@earthlink.net writes:
> Look at this part....
> http://cgi3.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ReturnUserIdHistory&requested=mark
> _cooke
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>; <type79@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2004 12:56:15 -0700
Subject: Re: Hardened valve seats?
The short answer is no.
See this prior thread;
http://www.team.net/html_arc/healeys/200307/msg00018.html
And this one by John Mitchell
http://www.vtr.org/maintain/valve-seats.html
Dave Russell
BN2
Scott Willis wrote:
> So I have the head off. I had it shaved clean, manafluxed, and a valve job.
> I painted it and I am ready to install. Now I am concerned because I did not
> have hardened valve guides installed.
>
> I hear different opinions. Should I go ahead and do it? If so, what and
> where should I buy?
>
> Cheers,
> Scott
> Mashed 60 BN7
From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>; <type79@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2004 15:31:25 -0500
Subject: Re: So Calif Healeys - Fine Living
| John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
| Go to www.directtv.com and look under Programming then Program Guide see
| channel 232. Unfortunately you can not look at last night's programming.
|
|
| -----
From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>; <type79@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2004 16:17:31 -0500
Subject: Mity Mite
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>; <type79@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2004 17:06:04 EST
Subject: Re: Mity Mite
In a message dated 1/31/04 1:22:11 PM, healey6@optonline.net writes:
> Can a Mity Mite trickle charger be used with a two 6 volt system as on my
> BN6? I cant seem to find anything other than they are for 12 volt systems.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>; <type79@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2004 16:10:33 -0700
Subject: Re: Mity Mite
Sure can - The two 6V batteries are connected in series for 12 V. Just
connect the charger so that it is across both batteries.
Dave Russell
BN2
Healeyolic wrote:
> Can a Mity Mite trickle charger be used with a two 6 volt system as
> on my BN6? I cant seem to find anything other than they are for 12
> volt systems.
>
> John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ
From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>; <type79@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2004 18:31:46 -0500
Subject: Re: Mity Mite
| Thanks all, Michael Oritt, Rick and Dave Russell, the old reliables. I was
| almost sure of the answer but just wanted to make sure. Made too many rash
| purchases and judgements in my lifetime - New Years resolution to check
| first and then charge headlong. It is the 31st of January-- longest in
| umpteen years any resolution as lasted.
|
| John
|
| ----- Original Message -----
| From: <WilKo@aol.com>
| To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
| Sent: Saturday, January 31, 2004 5:06 PM
| Subject: Re: Mity Mite
|
|
| | a BN6 usees a 12 volt system. Two 6-volts for 12-volts total. Charge
both
| | together.
| |
| | In a message dated 1/31/04 1:22:11 PM, healey6@optonline.net writes:
| |
| |
| | > Can a Mity Mite trickle charger be used with a two 6 volt system as on
| my
| | > BN6? I cant seem to find anything other than they are for 12 volt
| systems.
| | >
| | > John Sims, BN6
| | > Aberdeen, NJ
| |
|
From Bob Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>; <type79@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2004 18:38:10 -0800
Subject: Re: Mity Mite
Bob Denton
Dave & Marlene wrote:
> Hi John,
>
> Sure can - The two 6V batteries are connected in series for 12 V. Just
> connect the charger so that it is across both batteries.
>
> Dave Russell
> BN2
>
> Healeyolic wrote:
> > Can a Mity Mite trickle charger be used with a two 6 volt system as
> > on my BN6? I cant seem to find anything other than they are for 12
> > volt systems.
> >
> > John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ
From "Rick &7& Neves" <Rick at genomictechnologies.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>; <type79@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2004 19:54:33 -0500
Subject: Re: Installing Front suspension springs -- Any Tricks - Thanks
A couple of suggestions. The rod to use it 3/8". The coarse thread works fine.
Be careful when tightening with an air driven wrench, as it gets to the top,
any overtightening will snap the rod. I did it twice, its pretty scary. Best
to hand tighten when you get to 1/4" space.
Another suggestion is to anchor the nuts on the bottom end and use an air
driven wrench with a socket on the bottom. Anchoring the nuts means make it so
they thread on just the end and then mess up the threads further up so the
bottom nut turns the entire rod. Hold the top nut with a spanner. I used a
punch on the threads just above the bottom nuts to make them dig in. I found
that this method didn't work to well. The nuts eventually pushed pass the bump
in the threads and stated going north until they moved outside the socket and
couldn't be turned anymore. Basically you want the bottom end to act as the
head of the bolt and screw the rod up into the nut sitting on the top.
There is plenty of clearance for a 6-7" rod. I made the inner rods longer (7")
and the outer ones 6". I think 6 would have worked out in both cases. I had
some problems with the bottom nuts making there way up the threaded rod. I
think a better solution would have been to tack weld the nuts in place. But I
didn't want to drag the welder out, so I fussed with backing the nuts out and
tightening from the top. In the end I got the job done.
I took some photos of the process if anyone needs a reference.
http://www.rickneves.com/Images/Suspension/
Thanks again to all who made suggestions.
Sincerely
Rick Neves
'56 BN-2
_._
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.574 / Virus Database: 364 - Release Date: 01/30/2004
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>; <type79@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2004 17:33:22 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Hardened valve seats?
Yes, but if he has completely rebuilt the head, then
some work can't hurt.
Scott you seem to be confusing seats and guides. You
want hardened seats if anything... guides no.
You should have your head shop harden the seats. Hope
you put hardeneded exhaust valves on the head.
The guides should be left alone if you have used good
quality guides.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net> wrote:
> Hi Scott,
>
> The short answer is no.
>
> See this prior thread;
>
http://www.team.net/html_arc/healeys/200307/msg00018.html
>
> And this one by John Mitchell
> http://www.vtr.org/maintain/valve-seats.html
>
> Dave Russell
> BN2
>
> Scott Willis wrote:
> > So I have the head off. I had it shaved clean,
> manafluxed, and a valve job.
> > I painted it and I am ready to install. Now I am
> concerned because I did not
> > have hardened valve guides installed.
> >
> > I hear different opinions. Should I go ahead and
> do it? If so, what and
> > where should I buy?
> >
> > Cheers,
> > Scott
> > Mashed 60 BN7
From "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid at hotmail.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>; <type79@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sun, 01 Feb 2004 01:54:57 +0000
Subject: Re: Mity Mite
And you know what happens if you don't connect it correctly, as in one
12-volt battery jumped to one of the 6-volt batteries? Well, you know those
little vent holes in the caps for the battery cells? Imagine battery acid
squirting, under pressure, up through those little holes. NOT a pretty
sight.
Been there, done that...
Reid
Reid Trummel
Portland, Oregon
100, 100M, Bugeye, Ski-Master
_________________________________________________________________
Check out the coupons and bargains on MSN Offers!
http://shopping.msn.com/softcontent/softcontent.aspx?scmId=1418
From "Rick" <webmasterrick at comcast.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>; <type79@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2004 20:08:04 -0600
Subject: Re: Mity Mite
From Dave Carpenter <d.carpenter7 at verizon.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>; <type79@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2004 21:48:41 -0500
Subject: Re: Installing Front suspension springs -- Any Tricks
Dave
>Now that I have a good air compressor, the next time I do this I will shorten
>the allthreads to about 6", as long as a) the height ("vertical thickness" )
>of the
>A-arms, and b) 2X the depth of a deep socket for the nuts. This way, I can
>back off the nuts using an air ratchet and deep socket and probably cut the
>time required by 2/3.
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>; <type79@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2004 19:15:45 -0800
Subject: Re: Installing Front suspension springs -- Any Tricks - Thanks
This is why you should use bolts as I suggested in my previous message.
All-thread rods are not known for their tensile strength.
John Snyder
From James Albeck <mybjate at earthlink.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>; <type79@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2004 20:00:25 -0800
Subject: Re: Mity Mite
> a BN6 usees a 12 volt system. Two 6-volts for 12-volts total. Charge both
> together.
>
>The Mity Mite is a constant current trickle charger. It will work across 2 6V
batteries IF the specific gravity of the electrolyte is identical. This
requires your checking the specific gravity with a hydrometer. If one
battery is low the Mity Mite does not know which one it is. It just keeps
pumping current and the electrolyte in the battery that is high will boil.
The proper method is to use a 6V variable current trickle charger and charge
each battery independently and then hook the two 6V batteries in parallel.
Its not the easiest process, but its the safest. If anyone wishes
information on the SureCharge IV battery maintainer send me your address off
line.
Jim Albeck
Agoura, CA
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>; <type79@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2004 21:57:31 -0700
Subject: Re: Installing Front suspension springs -- Any Tricks - Thanks
Thanks for the pics. Great car, great website, great info.
Dave Russell
BN2
> I took some photos of the process if anyone needs a reference.
> http://www.rickneves.com/Images/Suspension/
>
> Thanks again to all who made suggestions.
>
>
> Sincerely
>
>
> Rick Neves
> '56 BN-2
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan@andysnet.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>; <type79@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2004 22:28:51 -0700
Subject: Re: Hardened valve seats?
Blue One Hundred wrote:
> Dave -
>
> Yes, but if he has completely rebuilt the head, then
> some work can't hurt.
What? If the head is already done "some work" would mean re-doing
everything. I don't get what you mean.
> Scott you seem to be confusing seats and guides. You
> want hardened seats if anything... guides no.
I think that most everyone knows that Scott means seats not guides.
> You should have your head shop harden the seats. Hope
> you put hardeneded exhaust valves on the head.
I really don't believe that hardened seats or valves are necessary for
the reasons already stated. Why do you think that they are needed?
> Regards,
> Alan
Best to you Alan, let's not get into an argument, at least not on the list!
Dave Russell
>
> --- Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net> wrote:
>
>>Hi Scott,
>>
>>The short answer is no.
>>
>>See this prior thread;
>>
>
> http://www.team.net/html_arc/healeys/200307/msg00018.html
>
>>And this one by John Mitchell
>>http://www.vtr.org/maintain/valve-seats.html
>>
>>Dave Russell
>>BN2
>>
>>Scott Willis wrote:
>>
>>>So I have the head off. I had it shaved clean,
>>
>>manafluxed, and a valve job.
>>
>>>I painted it and I am ready to install. Now I am
>>
>>concerned because I did not
>>
>>>have hardened valve guides installed.
>>>
>>>I hear different opinions. Should I go ahead and
>>
>>do it? If so, what and
>>
>>>where should I buy?
>>>
>>>Cheers,
>>>Scott
>>>Mashed 60 BN7
|
