No worries, I didn't take your email as an argument...
I always welcome debate... just not insults &
condescending remarks (like when I got angry a couple
months ago...).
All the things I've ever read say that the seat wear
using unleaded gasoline comes from a freshly prepared
head that has no lead deposits.
Yes, an old head with lead deposits on the seats
doesn't need hardened seats, but If you have a valve
job done on your head, that usually means grinding the
seats and any lead deposits that are on it protecting
it. The head shop can treat the cast iron so it is
hardened... I'm not talking about putting inserts in
the seats...
I'm just a little sensitive to this because... well
for american cars seat wear is less of an issue
because of hydraulic lifters (which self adjust)...
but with the british lifters & rocker shaft set up I
just would not want to be re-adjusting the rockers
every 12 months because I didn't have the shop
treat-harden the seats.
Hope that makes it clear. If you have experience
otherwise I'd love to hear it and maybe I can be a
little less anal about this on my next valve job!
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net> wrote:
> Hi Alan,
>
> Blue One Hundred wrote:
> > Dave -
> >
> > Yes, but if he has completely rebuilt the head,
> then
> > some work can't hurt.
>
> What? If the head is already done "some work" would
> mean re-doing
> everything. I don't get what you mean.
>
> > Scott you seem to be confusing seats and guides.
> You
> > want hardened seats if anything... guides no.
>
> I think that most everyone knows that Scott means
> seats not guides.
>
> > You should have your head shop harden the seats.
> Hope
> > you put hardeneded exhaust valves on the head.
>
> I really don't believe that hardened seats or valves
> are necessary for
> the reasons already stated. Why do you think that
> they are needed?
>
> > Regards,
> > Alan
>
> Best to you Alan, let's not get into an argument, at
> least not on the list!
>
> Dave Russell
>
> >
> > --- Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net> wrote:
> >
> >>Hi Scott,
> >>
> >>The short answer is no.
> >>
> >>See this prior thread;
> >>
> >
> >
>
http://www.team.net/html_arc/healeys/200307/msg00018.html
> >
> >>And this one by John Mitchell
> >>http://www.vtr.org/maintain/valve-seats.html
> >>
> >>Dave Russell
> >>BN2
> >>
> >>Scott Willis wrote:
> >>
> >>>So I have the head off. I had it shaved clean,
> >>
> >>manafluxed, and a valve job.
> >>
> >>>I painted it and I am ready to install. Now I am
> >>
> >>concerned because I did not
> >>
> >>>have hardened valve guides installed.
> >>>
> >>>I hear different opinions. Should I go ahead and
> >>
> >>do it? If so, what and
> >>
> >>>where should I buy?
> >>>
> >>>Cheers,
> >>>Scott
> >>>Mashed 60 BN7
From "Jim LeBlanc" <jleblanc at midsouth.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2004 10:29:54 -0600
Subject: Lucas Flasher Rebuild
I have just opened a faulty but original Lucas Flasher for the purpose
of rebuilding it.
My plan is to go to the local parts store and pick out a small flasher
that fits inside the can, connect it to the three connector points and
reassemble.
Not being an electrical engineer, I could use some qualified
suggestions.
Thanks in advance,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M
Memphis TN (car in cold storage)
From DrBerkowitz at aol.com
Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2004 12:02:37 EST
Subject: RE Hardened valve seats
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
Date: Sun, 01 Feb 2004 10:43:24 -0700
Subject: Re: Hardened valve seats?
In the referenced "Healey List" thread, John Snyder & Dave Porter seem
to agree with my own experience that hard seats are not "usually"
needed. The whole subject is a bit controversial.
The referenced John Mitchell article specifically says that the tests
were done on a VIRGIN engine - no previous lead.
To put John Mitchell's data into perspective. Tests on unleaded fuel
showed .00018" recession in 40 hours of running full throttle & high
rpm. This would be about 400 hours of very high load to get around
.0018" (less than .002") of recession. How long does it take the average
non racing driver on typical highways & speed limits to rack up 400
hours of this load? If he drove 1 hour at full throttle & 4000 rpm for
every 300 miles of travel it would take 120,000 miles before the valves
needed adjustment.
On a race engine the seats might last only about 12,000 miles. If I was
building a high duty race engine (which I have done - 170 bhp/liter) I
would certainly use hard seats & the best valves available.
To my knowledge, the only effective seat hardening treatments on cast
iron are "induction hardening" & very few head shops have the equipment
to do this. Likewise, various flame/plasma spray or the "high velocity
ox fuel" techniques to coat valve seats with Stellite can be used , but
I am not aware of many head shops that do this process. Please
enlighten me on what you know about head shop seat hardening processes
& what it costs.
I would certainly rather use this method than installing hard seats
which weaken the already questionable strength of the Healey valve seat
area of the crowded iron heads. (small diameter chambers with relatively
large valves). My present aluminum Healey head is cast with more meat in
the valve seat areas to allow for the seat inserts.
Regards,
Dave Russell
Blue One Hundred wrote:
> Dave -
> All the things I've ever read say that the seat wear using unleaded
> gasoline comes from a freshly prepared head that has no lead
> deposits.
>
> Yes, an old head with lead deposits on the seats doesn't need
> hardened seats, but If you have a valve job done on your head, that
> usually means grinding the seats and any lead deposits that are on it
> protecting it. The head shop can treat the cast iron so it is
> hardened... I'm not talking about putting inserts in the seats...
>
> I'm just a little sensitive to this because... well for american cars
> seat wear is less of an issue because of hydraulic lifters (which
> self adjust)... but with the british lifters & rocker shaft set up I
> just would not want to be re-adjusting the rockers every 12 months
> because I didn't have the shop treat-harden the seats.
>
> Hope that makes it clear. If you have experience otherwise I'd love
> to hear it and maybe I can be a little less anal about this on my
> next valve job!
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '64 BJ8
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sasktel.net>
Date: Sun, 01 Feb 2004 11:58:41 -0600
Subject: Re: Hardened valve seats?
A couple of years ago there were questions raised about valve
seat recession as a potential result from the use of unleaded
gasoline. Both Michael Salter and I replied at that time stating
that Shell Canada had run a series of tests on a variety of
engines using their premium gasoline - they found no recession
after hours of testing. One of my friends here was involved in
this experiment - they ran air cooled engines for 1000s of hours
with no measurable recession.
Well today, in fact, just over a year ago Shell Canada dropped
the additive. In an attempt to find out why there has been no
response of the Company.
As has been mentioned the one potential route to go if you
were concerned about this phenomenon was to take the approach
of NA manufacturers and use hardened seats. I guess this
would be on the understanding that they know best.
When I rebuilt my BJ8, I had a long discussion with a lad
who prepares the bulk of the street drag engines here (has
done a lot of other engines as well). His basic response was
it is not really necessary, additive or not, you never run the
engine to that point. He went on to say that coking in the
old days was a bigger issue. So the choice was mine.
I did have hardened GM seats inserted but only as a
matter of choice - an ounce of prevention is worth a pound
of cure - here I mean that without some rigorous experimental
testing, opinions are just opinions- this was to me the
safe and modestly cheap route to go.
Kind regards
Ed
Blue One Hundred wrote:
> Dave -
>
> No worries, I didn't take your email as an argument...
> I always welcome debate... just not insults &
> condescending remarks (like when I got angry a couple
> months ago...).
>
> All the things I've ever read say that the seat wear
> using unleaded gasoline comes from a freshly prepared
> head that has no lead deposits.
>
> Yes, an old head with lead deposits on the seats
> doesn't need hardened seats, but If you have a valve
> job done on your head, that usually means grinding the
> seats and any lead deposits that are on it protecting
> it. The head shop can treat the cast iron so it is
> hardened... I'm not talking about putting inserts in
> the seats...
>
> I'm just a little sensitive to this because... well
> for american cars seat wear is less of an issue
> because of hydraulic lifters (which self adjust)...
> but with the british lifters & rocker shaft set up I
> just would not want to be re-adjusting the rockers
> every 12 months because I didn't have the shop
> treat-harden the seats.
>
> Hope that makes it clear. If you have experience
> otherwise I'd love to hear it and maybe I can be a
> little less anal about this on my next valve job!
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '64 BJ8
From "don gschwind" <dgschwind at comcast.net>
Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2004 13:04:42 -0500
Subject: BJ8 Front Crank Seal & Nut
From James Albeck <mybjate at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 01 Feb 2004 10:40:36 -0800
Subject: Re: Lucas Flasher Rebuild
>
Hi Jim,
Don't understand why you just don't buy a new flasher??? If it is a concour
thing buy a flasher that is the same diameter and exchange the guts from the
new one to the old can. If you wish, send me the old flasher parts that you
disassembled and I will do it for you in exchange for a HUGG from Corie. BTW
we will be touring thru TN the latter part of May after attending the Jensen
Nationals in Nashville on our way to Dallas. If y'all will be home we could
arrange to get together so I can collect my HUGG. I will keep you posted on
our travel plans.
regards,
Jim Albeck
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2004 14:03:38 EST
Subject: Re: BJ8 Front Crank Seal & Nut
<< I desparately need your advice and suggestions. I've embarked on a
replacement of the front seal to stop an oil leak. >>
A bigger wrench and some heat should do it.
If the pulley shows seal wear check the <A HREF="www.ntahc.org">North Texas
AH Club web site</A> (ntahc.org) under tech tips. #5 Timing cover seal repair.
It tells how to install a Speedi Sleeve and still use the same size seal.
Don
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
Date: Sun, 01 Feb 2004 11:12:02 -0800
Subject: Re: Hardened valve seats?
FWIW - here , finally, is the result of 120K miles with hardened valve seats
and unleaded fuel - all the bits just came back from the machine shop to my
engine rebuilder - haven't yet had time to have a detailed look at the head
yet, haven't seen the bill yet!
To recap - the engine had it's first rebuild immediately after I acquired
the car (1980, engine rebuilt winter of '84 - '85) with 130K miles on the
clock. At the time, unleaded fuel was still available but was due to be
gone within 12 - 18 months. There was a crack in the head between the
valves of two adjacent cyl's, easily fixed with two valve seat inserts.
Since nobody really knew what would happen with long term running on
unleaded fuel, and two inserts were needed anyway, the decision was made to
install hardened inserts at all 12 valve positions. In addition, sintered
bronze valve guides were installed. Standard valves had to be used - we
could not find hardened valves at the time in spite of a dilligent search
for at least the exhaust valves.
The rest of the rebuild was routine - crank mains and rods .020 undersize,
block bored .030. 5-ring Hepolite pistons installed, cam reground to OE
MKIII specs, new lifters installed (one could still find good quality new
lifters then - there have apparently been some current problems with new
lifters). All of the rest of a proper rebuild was carried out.
The engine was broken in on unleaded fuel with a 'lead additive' (can't
remember which one) used in the first two tanks of fuel. After that, no
particular attention was paid to fuel, except that the car was run
exclusively on unleaded - the best grade I could find whenever I was
travelling, which was a lot! While the car was never raced or rallied, it
wasn't babied either - there were many times that my foot was right to the
floor on long mountain grades, at altitude, in hot weather, just because
it's so much damn fun!
I watched very carefully for the first 20 - 30K miles for decreasing valve
clearances, which would have indicated valve / seat problems -------
nothing! The engine rarely needed valve adjustment over the life of the
rebuild - 120K miles, and always ran beautifully, reliably, just like a big
Healey should!
The engine was removed and dismantled a couple of months ago in conjunction
with a full restoration of the car.
Results ------------ everything was found to be in great shape - much
better than anyone would have thought with the mileage. The head was
cleaned up, and the seat inserts, valves and valve guides were re-used, with
a valve grind, and 'some work on the guides' (haven't been able to determine
what yet). Crankshaft needed only polishing on the journals, and will get
new .020 bearings, of course. It was decided that there was just enough
wear in the bores to go another .010 o/s and find a set of .040 pistons.
The cam was easily in good enough shape to regrind to OE specs again, and
because the quality of the new lifters available today has been a bit
spotty, the ones that came out were refaced by the cam grinder and will be
re-installed. The rocker shaft was serviced as well, although it was in
amazingly good shape for the mileage - when this car is finished, I don't
want to be going back in there in a couple of years because we didn't do
everything right at this time.
When I questioned the machine shop - they've done many Healey engines - and
the re-builder (he's done probably 100+ Healey engines) as to why they
thought that the engine bits did so well, I was told 'this engine has had
good maintenance - you've been doing your oil changes, and it shows'. They
both also mentioned that the bores wore as well as they did partly from the
use of 5-ring pistons - the ring below the pin supports the piston skirt in
the bore quite a bit more effectively - makes sense to me - the new pistons
are 5-ringers as well (actually, there wasn't a hell of a lot of choice!),
and I'm not at all concerned with the slight power loss from the slight
added friction.
My policy has been to change oil and filter every spring and fall, mostly
without regard to mileage (there were a couple of years where it was driven
so much that a mid-season change was done in addition). I've always felt
that it was wise to have the car sit in the off-season with fresh oil in it.
Back in 1985, the first engine rebuilder said that he favoured Pennzoil - at
the time he felt that there was 'too much ash' in some of the other oils,
besides ' it's a bit cheaper'. So -------- the engine was run exclusively
on Pennzoil 20/50 for it's entire 2nd incarnation, and, not wishing to argue
with success, it will run the same oil in it's 3rd incarnation. (Note also
that I have run a spin-on oil filter / adapter for almost all of the miles
since the first re-build.)
I can remember DMH saying, when questioned about oil at a West Coast Meet
(Whistler in 1986, I think it was) - surrounded by 'knowlegeable' Healey
'gurus' who thought they knew all the answers --'use the cheapest oil and
change it often' -- floored everyone in the room! As far as I am
concerned, from my experience, he was absolutely right!
It's worth noting, as some others have pointed out, that the whole unleaded
fuel thing was likely blown way out of proportion - my tri-carb is
absolutely stone cold stock - no problems have arisen as of yet from running
the last 35K miles on unleaded fuel. Wonder what it will look like when it
comes apart!
I hope that I haven't caused a huge great flap with this message - just
trying to add to the knowledge base.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BT7 tri-carb
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
Cc: "Scott Willis" <ahpowered@hotmail.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 31, 2004 9:28 PM
Subject: Re: Hardened valve seats?
Hi Alan,
Blue One Hundred wrote:
> Dave -
>
> Yes, but if he has completely rebuilt the head, then
> some work can't hurt.
What? If the head is already done "some work" would mean re-doing
everything. I don't get what you mean.
> Scott you seem to be confusing seats and guides. You
> want hardened seats if anything... guides no.
I think that most everyone knows that Scott means seats not guides.
> You should have your head shop harden the seats. Hope
> you put hardeneded exhaust valves on the head.
I really don't believe that hardened seats or valves are necessary for
the reasons already stated. Why do you think that they are needed?
> Regards,
> Alan
Best to you Alan, let's not get into an argument, at least not on the list!
Dave Russell
>
> --- Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net> wrote:
>
>>Hi Scott,
>>
>>The short answer is no.
>>
>>See this prior thread;
>>
>
> http://www.team.net/html_arc/healeys/200307/msg00018.html
>
>>And this one by John Mitchell
>>http://www.vtr.org/maintain/valve-seats.html
>>
>>Dave Russell
>>BN2
>>
>>Scott Willis wrote:
>>
>>>So I have the head off. I had it shaved clean,
>>
>>manafluxed, and a valve job.
>>
>>>I painted it and I am ready to install. Now I am
>>
>>concerned because I did not
>>
>>>have hardened valve guides installed.
>>>
>>>I hear different opinions. Should I go ahead and
>>
>>do it? If so, what and
>>
>>>where should I buy?
>>>
>>>Cheers,
>>>Scott
>>>Mashed 60 BN7
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
Date: Sun, 01 Feb 2004 11:18:11 -0800
Subject: Tail Light Lense ID neede:
They measure 3.125 diameter.
The parts catalog shows these for some BJ8's. Does anyone know their
complete range of application, even outside the A-H line of cars?
Jaguar? MG? etc?
They are spares in my parts bin and I will eBay them out if I knew
definitively what they are for. (Or make me an offer if they are of
interest to you). They look too good to just toss in the trash.
Pic:
http://beachcitygas.com/ebp/tl1.jpg
Brian N.
1960 BT7
http://beachcitygas.com/ixora1.jpg
From "Scott Willis" <ahpowered at hotmail.com>
Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2004 14:23:11 -0600
Subject: Sterring rebuild-Side rod washer/cup thingy?
Weather broke here in KY. Mid 40's and sunny. I think I'll take the MGA out
and do my best impression of Victory by Design. I think that 1500cc sounds
great at 6500 rpm!
VAAARRRRROOOOOOOOOOM.........Ka-POW!
Yikes!
Thanks for looking.
~Scott
Mashed 60 BN7 too
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
Date: Sun, 01 Feb 2004 13:46:47 -0700
Subject: Re: BJ8 Front Crank Seal & Nut
Couple of suggestions:
Borrow, buy, rent, make a 1 11/16 striking/slugging wrench similar to
that shown in the factory shop manuals. Here is an example;
http://www.newmantools.com/wrenches/ozatfsw.htm
Borrow, rent, buy an electric impact wrench. The striking wrench is more
likely to do the job. You need a very heavy impact.
Dave Russell
don gschwind wrote:
> Hi, Listers,
> I desparately need your advice and suggestions. I've embarked on a
> replacement of the front seal to stop an oil leak. I've got the engine
> stripped down to where I can get a socket on the nut after raising the engine
> about 1-1/2 In. The engine is now tied down at the nounts with wood blocks and
> bolts to the frame.
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
Date: Sun, 01 Feb 2004 14:09:48 -0800
Subject: Re: Lucas Flasher Rebuild
Did this on both cars - a three terminal Tridon replacement flasher (from
NAPA I think) worked well inside the original Lucas can.
Couple of tips: the inside of the can has to be insulated - I used a
suitably cut piece of cardboard (file folder, I think) in order to keep the
Tridon from shorting to the metal Lucas case. (it's original case is
plastic). Another important consideration - the Tridon is full of
electronics - the car has to be NEG ground to avoid the escape of all the
smoke from your wiring.
What to I do for a HUGG? If Albeck can get one, so should I!
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BT7 tri-carb
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>
To: "Jim LeBlanc" <jleblanc@midsouth.rr.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 01, 2004 10:40 AM
Subject: Re: Lucas Flasher Rebuild
on 2/1/04 8:29 AM, Jim LeBlanc at jleblanc@midsouth.rr.com wrote:
>
Hi Jim,
Don't understand why you just don't buy a new flasher??? If it is a concour
thing buy a flasher that is the same diameter and exchange the guts from the
new one to the old can. If you wish, send me the old flasher parts that you
disassembled and I will do it for you in exchange for a HUGG from Corie. BTW
we will be touring thru TN the latter part of May after attending the Jensen
Nationals in Nashville on our way to Dallas. If y'all will be home we could
arrange to get together so I can collect my HUGG. I will keep you posted on
our travel plans.
regards,
Jim Albeck
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2004 14:22:34 -0800
Subject: Lucas Flasher Rebuild
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim LeBlanc" <jleblanc@midsouth.rr.com>
To: "'James Albeck'" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 01, 2004 8:29 AM
Subject: Lucas Flasher Rebuild
> Hi Healey Listeners:
>
> I have just opened a faulty but original Lucas Flasher for the purpose
> of rebuilding it.
>
> My plan is to go to the local parts store and pick out a small flasher
> that fits inside the can, connect it to the three connector points and
> reassemble.
>
> Not being an electrical engineer, I could use some qualified
> suggestions.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Jim LeBlanc
> 1956 100-M
> Memphis TN (car in cold storage)
From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2004 16:51:23 -0600
Subject: Re: BJ8 Front Crank Seal & Nut
To get a large wriench I would try sears or a farm supply store, or I am
sure there are numerous other sources. Same priciple as the "striking
wrench" ave referred to.
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
>
> don gschwind wrote:
> > Hi, Listers,
> > I desparately need your advice and suggestions. I've embarked on a
> > replacement of the front seal to stop an oil leak. I've got the engine
> > stripped down to where I can get a socket on the nut after raising the
engine
> > about 1-1/2 In. The engine is now tied down at the nounts with wood
blocks and
> > bolts to the frame.
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2004 14:52:51 -0800
Subject: Re: Lucas Flasher Rebuild
----- Original Message -----
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
<jleblanc@midsouth.rr.com>; "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 01, 2004 2:09 PM
Subject: Re: Lucas Flasher Rebuild
> Jim / Jim:
>
> Did this on both cars - a three terminal Tridon replacement flasher (from
> NAPA I think) worked well inside the original Lucas can.
>
> Couple of tips: the inside of the can has to be insulated - I used a
> suitably cut piece of cardboard (file folder, I think) in order to keep
the
> Tridon from shorting to the metal Lucas case. (it's original case is
> plastic). Another important consideration - the Tridon is full of
> electronics - the car has to be NEG ground to avoid the escape of all the
> smoke from your wiring.
>
> What to I do for a HUGG? If Albeck can get one, so should I!
>
> Earl Kagna
> Victoria, B.C.
> BT7 tri-carb
> BJ8
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>
> To: "Jim LeBlanc" <jleblanc@midsouth.rr.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, February 01, 2004 10:40 AM
> Subject: Re: Lucas Flasher Rebuild
>
>
> on 2/1/04 8:29 AM, Jim LeBlanc at jleblanc@midsouth.rr.com wrote:
>
> >
> Hi Jim,
> Don't understand why you just don't buy a new flasher??? If it is a
concour
> thing buy a flasher that is the same diameter and exchange the guts from
the
> new one to the old can. If you wish, send me the old flasher parts that
you
> disassembled and I will do it for you in exchange for a HUGG from Corie.
BTW
> we will be touring thru TN the latter part of May after attending the
Jensen
>
> Nationals in Nashville on our way to Dallas. If y'all will be home we
could
> arrange to get together so I can collect my HUGG. I will keep you posted
on
> our travel plans.
> regards,
> Jim Albeck
From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2004 17:02:46 -0600
Subject: Re: Lucas Flasher Rebuild
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
> on 2/1/04 8:29 AM, Jim LeBlanc at jleblanc@midsouth.rr.com wrote:
>
> >
> Hi Jim,
> Don't understand why you just don't buy a new flasher??? If it is a
concour
> thing buy a flasher that is the same diameter and exchange the guts from
the
> new one to the old can. If you wish, send me the old flasher parts that
you
> disassembled and I will do it for you in exchange for a HUGG from Corie.
BTW
> we will be touring thru TN the latter part of May after attending the
Jensen
> Nationals in Nashville on our way to Dallas. If y'all will be home we
could
> arrange to get together so I can collect my HUGG. I will keep you posted
on
> our travel plans.
> regards,
> Jim Albeck
From Warthodson at aol.com
Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2004 18:44:36 EST
Subject: roadster doors on a BJ8 chassis
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2004 20:27:55 -0500
Subject: Re: Lucas Flasher Rebuild
> Do the judges really get underneath the dash and look at the flasher unit?
I
> have newfound respect if they do, May back still hurts from replacing
mine,
> I used a generic unit from an local auto parts store, it (the flasher
unit)
> didn't seem to care that my car was positive ground when I installed it,
nor
> did it care when I switched to negative, but maybe I was lucky or other
> brands are polarity specific.
>
> Greg Lemon
> 54 BN1
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2004 18:42:35 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: roadster doors on a BJ8 chassis
The BJ7/BJ8 Door is mostly just a BT7 door with an
extension at the top for the chrome spear & different
mounts for door latches & roll up windows. As a
result the frame is different and the internal mounts
and door latches are all different.
If you are asking, you can use the BT7/BN6/BN7
roadster door skin on a bj7 or bj8 door frame with a
little cutting and welding it should be ok.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- Warthodson@aol.com wrote:
> Please help me settle a local debate. Can roadster
> doors befitted to a BJ8
> chassis? I am specifically referring to the door &
> hinges. I know the door latch
> mechanism & the interface between the top of the
> door & the windshield may be
> issues. And of course the body panels & the roadster
> door will not will not
> match. If not what are the differences between the
> two that prevent the
> installation of the door?
> Thanks,
> Gary
From "Dan Harris" <daharris at interlog.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2004 22:26:56 -0500
Subject: Re: Lucas Flasher Rebuild
> Thanks for the newfound respect. We do check for this. Of course it's
easier
> on the 6's because it isn't buried under the dash.
> Rich Chrysler
> > Do the judges really get underneath the dash and look at the flasher
unit?
> I
> > have newfound respect if they do, My back still hurts from replacing
> mine,
> > Greg Lemon
> > 54 BN1
From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2004 22:04:13 -0800 (PST)
Subject: re.Re: Hardened valve seats?
__________________________________
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free web site building tool. Try it!
http://webhosting.yahoo.com/ps/sb/
From Ron Fine <RonFineEsq at earthlink.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Sun, 01 Feb 2004 22:06:37 -0800
Subject: Question about heads
2. The block and head are very clogged up with a hard deposits in the
water ways. They can be scrapped out of the accessible areas but what
about the inaccessible areas. What is normally done to clean out the
cooling areas of the head and block?
3. The pistons each have a small diamond with a "2" inside and the
same is stamped in the block beside each cylinder. Does that indicate
that these pistons are the original flat top pistons or just that they
are the "standard size"? Were the marks on the top of the block put
there by the factory or by someone who later rebuilt the engine?
Just curious.
Ron
61BN7
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Mon, 02 Feb 2004 00:59:10 -0700
Subject: Re: Question about heads
1. I don't know about the water holes. I think that it is a normal
situation. There is one small hole in the block that mates with a
similar hole in the head for oil feed to the rocker arms.
2. So called "hot tanking", a hot caustic bath is the standard way of
cleaning the block. It will remove rust & everything else that is not
iron. any aluminum & the cam bearings will be dissolved. Best to remove
these first to assure complete cleaning of the oil passages. For the
same reason, remove all of the oilway plugs, core plugs, & anything else
that you can remove. Same with the head.
3. The small diamond numbers were stamped at the factory to permit the
best selective fit of the pistons to the bores. This would mean that you
still have the original pistons.
Dave Russell
BN2
Ron Fine wrote:
> I just finished pulling my BN7 engine apart this weekend. Great fun,
> but now I have some questions about what I see on the head and block.
> 1. The head and head gasket has five holes on the manifold side about
> the size of a quarter that are open to the water way but the block has
> no holes opposite these in the head. Is that normal? One the block
> there is one small hole that looks like it was drilled where there was
> no hole but just in one of the five places.
> 2. The block and head are very clogged up with a hard deposits in the
> water ways. They can be scrapped out of the accessible areas but what
> about the inaccessible areas. What is normally done to clean out the
> cooling areas of the head and block?
>
> 3. The pistons each have a small diamond with a "2" inside and the
> same is stamped in the block beside each cylinder. Does that indicate
> that these pistons are the original flat top pistons or just that they
> are the "standard size"? Were the marks on the top of the block put
> there by the factory or by someone who later rebuilt the engine?
> Just curious.
> Ron
> 61BN7
From <lists at autox.team.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2004 01:03:03 -0700
Subject: Forwarded Message, no subject
http://www.team.net/posting.html
Reply to author, not me.
mjb.
----
------- Start of forwarded message -------
From: "Heard Saxon" <heard@datatrontech.net>
Subject:
Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2004 19:22:07 -0500
Hello Everyone,
I hope you're having a great Super Bowl evening! I've been re-assembling
(finally!) my BT7 and have a few questions:
1. Can someone send me some pics of the wiring harness as viewed from the
engine bay looking forward? I got most of my new one installed and
connected with no problems, but I can't seem to tell where this forward part
for the horns and lights routes and mounts to the chassis.
2. I also need some pics of the boot area wiring harness. Anything here
would be helpful.
3. Where does the wiring harness enter the boot? On the left or right?
Again, I can't seem to tell how it gets there. Any pics are greatly
appreciated.
4. I have been trying with no luck to mount my front suspension. The
problem I am having is trying to get the lower wishbone bushings to
cooperate. I can't seem to get them compressed enough to make the shoulder
of that special washer to seat properly in the chassis. Is there some trick
to this or do I have ill fitting parts? The new bushings I have seem to
stand about flush with the outside edge of the chassis, which means I am
compressing them quite bit as I try to seat the washer.
Thanks in advance!
Heard Saxon
60 BT7 (Never seen it together)
------- End of forwarded message -------
From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2004 07:35:46 EST
Subject: Re: BJ8 Front Crank Seal & Nut
> Don, I would concur with Dave's advice, I had the same problem on my BN1.
> I
> tried a long breaker bar, breaker bar with plumbing pipe to make it longer
> etc. I finally got a large combination wrench and hit it with a wire wheel
> hammer, came right off. The reason I think, the breaker bar had some flex,
> the wrench with its wider cross section did not, hence the force of the blow
> all goes to the nut.
>
> To get a large wriench I would try sears or a farm supply store, or I am
> sure there are numerous other sources. Same priciple as the "striking
> wrench" ave referred to.
>
Agreed.
I got something from a local place that sells a load of tools, used and new,
plenty of which are ex-military. They've boxes of old spanners. I bought
something that looked like it did up nuts on a chieftan tank. Couple of good
whacks
and the nut came loose. Cost nothing, a pound sterling perhaps. Bet you've
some place similar.
Simon.
From "Heard Saxon" <heard at datatrontech.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2004 08:36:12 -0500
Subject: Wishbone bushings and harness questions
1. Can someone send me some pics of the wiring harness as viewed from the
engine bay looking forward? I got most of my new one installed and
connected with no problems, but I can't seem to tell where this forward part
for the horns and lights routes and mounts to the chassis.
2. I also need some pics of the boot area wiring harness. Anything here
would be helpful.
3. Where does the wiring harness enter the boot? On the left or right?
Again, I can't seem to tell how it gets there. Any pics are greatly
appreciated.
4. I have been trying with no luck to mount my front suspension. The
problem I am having is trying to get the lower wishbone bushings to
cooperate. I can't seem to get them compressed enough to make the shoulder
of that special washer to seat properly in the chassis. Is there some trick
to this or do I have ill fitting parts? The new bushings I have seem to
stand about flush with the outside edge of the chassis, which means I am
compressing them quite bit as I try to seat the washer.
Thanks in advance!
Heard Saxon
60 BT7 (Never seen it together)
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2004 06:24:53 -0800
Subject: Amazing Photo (no Healey content)
http://www.avweb.com/newspics/DavisTbirdEject.jpg
Shows the pilot of an Air Force Thunderbirds F-16 punching-out
0.8 seconds before impact.
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
From Richard Gordon <HealeyHundred at comcast.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2004 07:50:47 -0700
Subject: BJ8 for sale in Colo
From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2004 10:54:26 -0600
Subject: RE: BJ7 Crankshaft rear oil seal kit
-----Original Message-----
From: Len and/or Marge [mailto:thehartnetts@earthlink.net]
Sent: Friday, January 30, 2004 12:33 AM
To: Healeys Mailing List
Subject: Re: BJ7 Crankshaft rear oil seal kit
Everyone speaks of the rear oil seal kits as being the ones sold by the
Healey supply sources. I went a different route.
When my engine was rebuilt several years ago, my engine builder
suggested
the use of the old fashioned graphite impregnated 'rope' (I can't
remember
its correct name but NAPA calls it 'Rear Main Seal Set'). His theory
was
that it would not require precision placement since clamping down on the
seal would cause it to conform to the crank shaft even if the retainer
was
slightly off center. I had a retainer made to secure the seal to the
rear
of the engine.
Unfortunately, I have a leak but it is the transmission doing it. I
know
this because I put die in the transmission and that is what is coming
out
of the bell housing. Once that leak is resolved, I will be able to tell
how well the engine seal is holding up.
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA
1967 3000 MKIII HBJ8L39031
From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2004 11:24:20 -0800 (PST)
Subject: "free flow" exhaust systems
__________________________________
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free web site building tool. Try it!
http://webhosting.yahoo.com/ps/sb/
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2004 13:02:44 -0800
Subject: Re: Lucas Flasher Rebuild
----- Original Message -----
From: "tom felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
To: "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg@telus.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
<jleblanc@midsouth.rr.com>; "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, February 02, 2004 5:02 AM
Subject: RE: Lucas Flasher Rebuild
>
> ?????? What am I missing? I use halogen bulbs in my signal lights with
> the original flasher unit and they flash the same as when I had regular
> bulbs.
>
> Tom
>
> > [Original Message]
> > From: Neil Trelenberg <neilberg@telus.net>
> > To: Jim LeBlanc <jleblanc@midsouth.rr.com>; James Albeck
> <mybjate@earthlink.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Date: 2/1/04 5:23:52 PM
> > Subject: Lucas Flasher Rebuild
> >
> > It would be a more expensive to buy a new original. Doing that would be
> > easier than replacing the insides of the old one though. I replaced the
> > insides of mine, which was working fine BTW, with an electronic version.
> The
> > reason I did was, I replaced my running lights with halogen bulbs. If
you
> do
> > that the flasher will only flash once ever 10 - 20 seconds. So it was
> > basically usless. If you put in an electronic one they will always flash
> at
> > the same rate regardless what kind of bulbs you have in the car. If you
> are
> > positive ground you will have to make some changes to the wiring of the
> > flasher. The one I got only had an electrolytic capacitor so I just
> reversed
> > it's leads. I took the original apart very carefully and the new one
> slipped
> > in and I rerolled the lip and it's been working fine since (3 years). I
> > would only suggest replacing the insides if you were going to change
bulb
> > types....Neil
From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2004 19:07:22 -0500
Subject: Just missed my BJ8
Called immediately. Too late. Poof. Gone!
Of course, there was no telling condition. Anyone on the list purchase said
vehicle?
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
Amateur Radio AI2Q
http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
.-.-.
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2004 20:11:28 -0500
Subject: Re: Wishbone bushings and harness questions
Sorry I don't currently have any pics I can send but I can describe it to
you.
On your '60 BT7 the main harness that runs along the inner left wheel arch
will fasten into the 8 wires plus earth (black) to the "stop lamp over ride
relay box". The harness continues forward just over the steering box and
ducks under the cross brace that mounts the fresh air duct aperture. There
the left side headlamp wires will have bullet connectors and sidelamp/
turnsignal wires will branch off. Meanwhile the rest of the harness will
turn right and continue across the car, held in position by two wrap around
harness clamps that are anchored into place on the same panel that the
bonnet latch mechanism is mounted to. If you look at this panel there is a
small hole either side of the latch mount. A 10-32 screw with nut and
lockwasher holds each harness clamp with the loop of the clamp down. This
gets the harness across the front of the car with the bullet connectors for
the stator tube (steering column ) harness sitting approx. in the middle.
The rest of the harness will continue to the right side leaving the right
side headlamp bullets and the right sidelamp/ turn signal wires ready to be
fastened into their respective components.
>
> 2. I also need some pics of the boot area wiring harness. Anything here
> would be helpful.
3. Where does the wiring harness enter the boot? On the left or right?
> Again, I can't seem to tell how it gets there. Any pics are greatly
> appreciated.
Again, no pictures but it's pretty simple.
The harness will enter the boot on the left side. There is a hole in the
boot bulkhead just above the left side boot box section just to the left of
the fuel tank. Run the harness through a grommet here and immediately it
will drop slightly onto the box surface. The fuel gage sending wire will
branch off and connect to the sender on top of the tank. meanwhile you
should see a couple of welded steel tabs on the top of the box section. The
harness locates under these and goes to the rear, dropping off the box
section and travelling along the floor to the back. The harness will end
here, with bullet connectors to plug onto the harness that will distribute
wires to the left tail lamp/ turnsignal / brake wires (plus earth). This new
harness section will tuck under the rear strut, be located by welded tabs
and go across the lower trunk lip opening with a red and a black wire to go
out the approx. centre position grommet to feed the number plate lamp, and
the remainder going under the right rear strut to feed the right tail /
signal/ brake lamp.
>
> 4. I have been trying with no luck to mount my front suspension. The
> problem I am having is trying to get the lower wishbone bushings to
> cooperate. I can't seem to get them compressed enough to make the
shoulder
> of that special washer to seat properly in the chassis. Is there some
trick
> to this or do I have ill fitting parts? The new bushings I have seem to
> stand about flush with the outside edge of the chassis, which means I am
> compressing them quite bit as I try to seat the washer.
These chassis mounted box sections should have straight perpendicular side
walls. I've seen them bent or caved in while someone tried to get the old
pins and bushings out. You are now trying to seat the new links and bushings
and they aren't fully seating against the (supposed) vertical wall section.
Might this be the problem?
Also the notch must line up with the welded locator tab. These will have a
tendency to turn out of position as you tighten things.
BTW, make sure you tighten these bushings with a 2" spacer under the shock
arm to ensure the arm is located approx. neutral in it's travel. Otherwise
the locked in bushings will need to twist too much under load conditions.
Hope some of this helps.
Rich Chrysler
From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2004 20:43:17 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: roadster doors on a BJ8 chassis
--- Warthodson@aol.com wrote: << Please help me settle a local debate. Can
roadster doors be
fitted to a BJ8 chassis? I am specifically referring to the door & hinges. I
know the door latch
mechanism & the interface between the top of the door & the windshield may be
issues. And of
course the body panels & the roadster door will not will not match. If not what
are the
differences between the two that prevent the installation of the door?
Thanks, Gary >>
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2004 18:01:42 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: "free flow" exhaust systems
You can always have a local muffler shop custom make
something to exactly what you want. Cost should be
similar to the parts alone for the ANZA/MONZA set up.
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- joe mulqueen <joemulqueen@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Hello,
> Sorry for asking a question that maybe's been asked
> before:
> Anyone know if the carbon steel (not stainless) big
> bore exhaust systems for 6 cyl cars offered by Moss
> and Victoria British are identical or made by
> different vendors? Same silencer and tubing dia?
> What about length? I've heard some people wish
> their
> pipes were a bit longer out the back.
> Regards,
> Joe Mulqueen
> '60 BT7 in work
> Torrance, CA
from miami, i would advise everyone to be careful. this one had a quickie
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2004 19:23:09 -0800
Subject: florida healeys
From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2004 19:41:05 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Lucas motor rebuild
Joe Mulqueen
'60
BT7
__________________________________
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free web site building tool. Try it!
http://webhosting.yahoo.com/ps/sb/
From "Pamela & Joel Holmes" <holmes at mcn.org>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2004 20:46:56 -0800
Subject: Big Healey wanted
Joel Holmes
60 BT7
60 Morris 2 dr
59 Morris Pickup
From "Ray Juncal" <gonzo18 at mindspring.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2004 10:25:58 -0800
Subject: team thicko
From "John Trifari" <jtrifari at comcast.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2004 14:35:19 -0800
Subject: Feb issue of Golden Gate Healey Happenings
The February 2004 issue of Golden Gate Healey Happenings, the newsletter
published by the Golden Gate Austin Healey Club, is now available at
www.GoldenGateHealeys.com. We hope you enjoy it. John Trifari
From Olin Brimberry <olin.brimberry.b at bayer.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2004 19:07:38 -0500
Subject: Sleeving a cylinder
Best Regards,
Olin Brimberry
Raleigh, NC
62 MKII tri-carb
From Olin Brimberry <olin.brimberry.b at bayer.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2004 19:13:14 -0500
Subject: Engine ID Number
Best Regards,
Olin Brimberry
Raleigh, NC
62 MKII Tri Carb Side Shift
From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2004 19:24:13 -0500
Subject: Re: Question about heads
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave & Marlene
To: Ron Fine
Cc: Healey list
Sent: Monday, February 02, 2004 2:59 AM
Subject: Re: Question about heads
2. So called "hot tanking", a hot caustic bath is the standard way of
cleaning the block. It will remove rust & everything else that is not
iron. any aluminum & the cam bearings will be dissolved. Best to remove
these first to assure complete cleaning of the oil passages. For the
same reason, remove all of the oilway plugs, core plugs, & anything else
that you can remove. Same with the head.
Dave Russell
BN2
Ron Fine wrote:
> I just finished pulling my BN7 engine apart this weekend. Great fun,
> but now I have some questions about what I see on the head and block.
> 1. The head and head gasket has five holes on the manifold side about
> the size of a quarter that are open to the water way but the block has
> no holes opposite these in the head. Is that normal? One the block
> there is one small hole that looks like it was drilled where there was
> no hole but just in one of the five places.
> 2. The block and head are very clogged up with a hard deposits in the
> water ways. They can be scrapped out of the accessible areas but what
> about the inaccessible areas. What is normally done to clean out the
> cooling areas of the head and block?
>
> 3. The pistons each have a small diamond with a "2" inside and the
> same is stamped in the block beside each cylinder. Does that indicate
> that these pistons are the original flat top pistons or just that they
> are the "standard size"? Were the marks on the top of the block put
> there by the factory or by someone who later rebuilt the engine?
> Just curious.
> Ron
> 61BN7
From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2004 19:27:03 -0500
Subject: Re: Sleeving a cylinder
I had one cylinder sleeved because I had a gouge in the cylinder wall too deep
to clean up. No problems with this in 40,000+ miles.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Olin Brimberry
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2004 7:07 PM
Subject: Sleeving a cylinder
Upon investigation of poor compression, I discovered I have scored the
cylinder
wall to the point my rebuilder says I will have to sleeve the cylinder.
Any
problems with this that I should have reservations about doing this - or
should
I look for a good block?
Best Regards,
Olin Brimberry
Raleigh, NC
62 MKII tri-carb
From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2004 16:36:24 -0800
Subject: RE: Sleeving a cylinder
From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2004 19:39:13 -0500
Subject: Re: Engine ID Number
It's truly unfortunate that the factory marked the serial number of each
engine only on that very vulnerable aluminum plate. A high percentage of the
BJ8 engines I look at at car shows are missing the serial number plate.
The most you can do is to assume that the engine is the original one to your
car and have a new plate made. Todd Clarke at Clarke Spares in Doylestown, PA
can make a new plate for you. You can find out the original engine number by
getting the BMIHT certificate.
Unless you are sure the engine in your car is the original one, then I don't
recommend trying to replace the plate.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Olin Brimberry
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2004 7:13 PM
Subject: Engine ID Number
I need suggestions about what to do when the previous caustic dip eroded
the
aluminum engine number plate. I can not read the detail numbers. It has
been
like this since the day I purchased it. I can make out the 29E for sure.
Any
suggestions?
Best Regards,
Olin Brimberry
Raleigh, NC
62 MKII Tri Carb Side Shift
From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2004 17:05:05 -0800
Subject: RE: Sleeving a cylinder
I had my cylinders sleeved, and have had no problems with the motor, works
great (so far)!
Cheers,
Frank
1960 BN7 # 10610
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Olin Brimberry
Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2004 4:08 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Sleeving a cylinder
Upon investigation of poor compression, I discovered I have scored the
cylinder
wall to the point my rebuilder says I will have to sleeve the cylinder. Any
problems with this that I should have reservations about doing this - or
should
I look for a good block?
Best Regards,
Olin Brimberry
Raleigh, NC
62 MKII tri-carb
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2004 19:36:35 -0600
Subject: Re: Sleeving a cylinder (follow-up Q)
From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2004 21:02:02 EST
Subject: Re: Sleeving a cylinder (follow-up Q)
In a message dated 2/3/04 5:37:19 PM, glemon@neb.rr.com writes:
> pardon my ignorance, is "sleeving a cylinder" putting in a new cylinder
> liner like moss and others list, or is there some process the machine shop
> does to fabricate or repair or build up the surface?
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Tue, 03 Feb 2004 19:51:27 -0700
Subject: Re: Sleeving a cylinder
As far as I know, the engine has removable sleeves. Sometimes called
Piston liners. around $35 each. Remove the old sleeve, install the new,
machine as required. A typical sleeve would be a Moss part #021-304.
Dave Russell
BN2
Olin Brimberry wrote:
> Upon investigation of poor compression, I discovered I have scored the
>cylinder
> wall to the point my rebuilder says I will have to sleeve the cylinder. Any
> problems with this that I should have reservations about doing this - or
>should
> I look for a good block?
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Olin Brimberry
> Raleigh, NC
> 62 MKII tri-carb
From "Jim LeBlanc" <jleblanc at midsouth.rr.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2004 21:09:16 -0600
Subject: RE: Lucas Flasher Rebuild
General answers to the offerings:
Hugs can be applied for in person from she who is at step 11 of getting
over living in Southern California.
New found respect for Rich C diminishes to Rodney Dangerfield level when
reading his response "Of course it's easier on the 6's because it isn't
buried under the dash". Rich, start from the windscreen and peel back
the bonnet of a 4.
Putting NOS Lucas flasher on a car is not a good use of time as it will
again need replacing as soon as it is put to use. Just speaking from
experience, MTBF is 1000 miles or in my case three years.
The idea of replacing the flasher interior with an updated Lucas
interior is compelling. But the idea of improving a Lucas flasher with
the interior of a Lucas flasher is like having a self-licking popsicle.
Thanks for all the good ideas and other entertainment,
Best Regards,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M (in cold storage)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jim LeBlanc
Sent: Sunday, February 01, 2004 10:30 AM
To: 'James Albeck'; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Lucas Flasher Rebuild
Hi Healey Listeners:
I have just opened a faulty but original Lucas Flasher for the purpose
of rebuilding it.
My plan is to go to the local parts store and pick out a small flasher
that fits inside the can, connect it to the three connector points and
reassemble.
Not being an electrical engineer, I could use some qualified
suggestions.
Thanks in advance,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M
Memphis TN (car in cold storage)
From Ron Fine <RonFineEsq at earthlink.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Tue, 03 Feb 2004 19:55:23 -0800
Subject: Re: Engine ID Number
From "Scott Willis" <ahpowered at hotmail.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2004 22:14:32 -0600
Subject: Used Austin Healey Magazines?
Cheers,
Scott
Mashed BN7
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2004 15:16:48 +1100
Subject: RE: Engine ID Number
Just back from 3 weeks away enjoying our summer and the fact that our
two youngest kids were away from home. What bliss!!!!!!!!
Anyway back on to the subject of stamping the block. Our current rules
in this country dictate that the block must be stamped and be able to be
seen. Therefore an aluminium plate is not sufficient.
I have stamped the block (with some force and enthusiasm) on the small
flat area directly behind the distributor. Works well and can be seen.
The engine still runs too.
Hoo Roo
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
Ps. To all my friends that I owe emails to - please be patient. I get to
it. Meanwhile I am trying to get rid of the mountain of work on my desk.
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
-----Original Message-----
From: Ron Fine [mailto:RonFineEsq@earthlink.net]
Sent: Wednesday, 4 February 2004 2:55 PM
To: BJ8Healeys
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Engine ID Number
Talking about engine ID plates, I was wondering if it is safe or
possible to stamp the engine number into the block under the plate. I
have a lettering/number kit for stamping keys, etc. Would it be
possible to use it to stamp a number on the block or would that risk
cracking the block?
Ron
**********************************************************************
This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain
privileged information or confidential information or both. If you
are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender.
**********************************************************************
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2004 20:29:48 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: BJ8 Front Crank Seal & Nut
Are you suggesting they still use Whitworth bolts on a
Cheiftan tank? Or have they switched to that French
system of measurement yet, I think it's called
"Metrix" or some such nonsense.
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- Simonlachlan@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 01/02/2004 22:51:55 GMT Standard
> Time, glemon@neb.rr.com
> writes:
>
> > Don, I would concur with Dave's advice, I had the
> same problem on my BN1.
> > I
> > tried a long breaker bar, breaker bar with
> plumbing pipe to make it longer
> > etc. I finally got a large combination wrench
> and hit it with a wire wheel
> > hammer, came right off. The reason I think, the
> breaker bar had some flex,
> > the wrench with its wider cross section did not,
> hence the force of the blow
> > all goes to the nut.
> >
> > To get a large wriench I would try sears or a farm
> supply store, or I am
> > sure there are numerous other sources. Same
> priciple as the "striking
> > wrench" ave referred to.
> >
> Agreed.
> I got something from a local place that sells a load
> of tools, used and new,
> plenty of which are ex-military. They've boxes of
> old spanners. I bought
> something that looked like it did up nuts on a
> chieftan tank. Couple of good whacks
> and the nut came loose. Cost nothing, a pound
> sterling perhaps. Bet you've
> some place similar.
> Simon.
From "David" <dcrawfor at san.rr.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2004 20:31:04 -0800
Subject: BN1 Aluminum Head
I've really been enjoying the recent exchanges. What a swell
bunch of humans!
O.K. We took the head off of my BN1 and discovered two nasty
cracks. Not little ones. An old machinist who has seen just about
everything said he wouldn't guarantee any try at a welded fix. So
I went through the mental options of aluminum vs. cast iron.
Aluminum won.
Blue One Hundred and I have been exchanging notes about the
work I'm doing to my BN1. Alan said, "I would also suggest
re-posting to the list with this cracked head problem."
I'll also quote him on the head gasket:
"If you get an ali head for the 100/4 , YOU MUST get the steel
100/M gasket (about $300). The ali head warps a bit and the
copper gasket won't hold a seal after the first 1,000 miles or so."
I would welcome all related comments since I am dumb as a box
of rocks. Fasteners, gaskets, you name it...I want to do the top
end right.
Thanks to all who have offered suggestions and help in the past.
This is going to be a beautiful car when it gets its wheels back on
the road.
David Crawford
San Diego
BN1
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Tue, 03 Feb 2004 23:25:07 -0700
Subject: Re: BN1 Aluminum Head
A couple of years ago I installed the Denis Welch aluminum head on my
BN2. It has worked flawlessly.
The head is the stage 3 ported item. As you will see, it uses the best
valves, springs, retainers & guides. It comes with all new rocker arm &
manifold studs, washers & nuts. Fully assembled & ready to go.
Get the high strength head studs, nuts, & hardened washers to go with it
& torque the head studs to 75 ft/lb.
D W recommended the two sided copper head gasket & it works fine. Maybe
the D W head is stiffer than some of the other available aluminum heads.
I also used the DW tube headers & complete exhaust system along with
100M carbs, manifolds, & cold air box. Power output & torque are quite
impressive.
A side benefit is that the aluminum head is 30 pounds lighter than the
original.
Below are the website with a complete catalog & the email address. Give
them an email if you need any advice. They are very helpful. Even with
shipping costs, the DW price was considerably less than the stateside
offerings.
Denis Welch Motorsport
email sales@bighealey.co.uk
http://www.bighealey.co.uk/
Dave Russell
BN2
David wrote:
> Listers,
>
> "If you get an ali head for the 100/4 , YOU MUST get the steel
> 100/M gasket (about $300). The ali head warps a bit and the
> copper gasket won't hold a seal after the first 1,000 miles or so."
>
> I would welcome all related comments since I am dumb as a box
> of rocks. Fasteners, gaskets, you name it...I want to do the top
> end right.
>
> Thanks to all who have offered suggestions and help in the past.
> This is going to be a beautiful car when it gets its wheels back on
> the road.
>
> David Crawford
> San Diego
> BN1
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2004 00:12:55 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: BN1 Aluminum Head
If you decide to go with roller rockers, there's a
specialist outfit in the US that makes a beautiful
roller rocker set for both healey engines:
http://www.rockerarms.com/
you can see the set right on the home page, plus the
price is much cheaper than buying from Dennis Welch.
I think a couple people on this list use these
rockers. Would love to hear first hand experiences.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- David <dcrawfor@san.rr.com> wrote:
> Listers,
>
> I've really been enjoying the recent exchanges. What
> a swell
> bunch of humans!
>
> O.K. We took the head off of my BN1 and discovered
> two nasty
> cracks. Not little ones. An old machinist who has
> seen just about
> everything said he wouldn't guarantee any try at a
> welded fix. So
> I went through the mental options of aluminum vs.
> cast iron.
> Aluminum won.
>
> Blue One Hundred and I have been exchanging notes
> about the
> work I'm doing to my BN1. Alan said, "I would also
> suggest
> re-posting to the list with this cracked head
> problem."
>
> I'll also quote him on the head gasket:
>
> "If you get an ali head for the 100/4 , YOU MUST get
> the steel
> 100/M gasket (about $300). The ali head warps a bit
> and the
> copper gasket won't hold a seal after the first
> 1,000 miles or so."
>
> I would welcome all related comments since I am dumb
> as a box
> of rocks. Fasteners, gaskets, you name it...I want
> to do the top
> end right.
>
> Thanks to all who have offered suggestions and help
> in the past.
> This is going to be a beautiful car when it gets its
> wheels back on
> the road.
>
> David Crawford
> San Diego
> BN1
From Alan Bromfield <Alan.Bromfield at ntl.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2004 11:22:12 -0000
Subject: Roller Rockers - was BN1 Aluminum Head
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Blue One Hundred
Sent: 04 February 2004 08:13
To: David; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: BN1 Aluminum Head
David -
If you decide to go with roller rockers, there's a
specialist outfit in the US that makes a beautiful
roller rocker set for both healey engines:
http://www.rockerarms.com/
you can see the set right on the home page, plus the
price is much cheaper than buying from Dennis Welch.
I think a couple people on this list use these
rockers. Would love to hear first hand experiences.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
The contents of this email and any attachments are sent for the personal
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of the addressee(s) only and may be confidential. If you are not the intended
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representations or commitments expressed in this email are subject to contract.
ntl Group Limited
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2004 06:29:28 EST
Subject: Re: BN1 Aluminum Head
> "If you get an ali head for the 100/4 , YOU MUST get the steel
> 100/M gasket (about $300). The ali head warps a bit and the
> copper gasket won't hold a seal after the first 1,000 miles or so."
>
> I would welcome all related comments since I am dumb as a box
> of rocks. Fasteners, gaskets, you name it...I want to do the top
> end right.
>
>
I've got the DW stage two (fast street) head with matching tubular header and
exhaust. I believe that the main difference in the various states of "tune"
have to do with the amount of hand-work going into porting, polishing, etc.
Along with the steel (reusable) gasket get the hardened head studs and nuts,
washers, etc. One of the reasons that 100 heads so frequently leak and crack
is the stud pattern, stud stretching and inability to exert sufficient torque.
I also have the DW roller rocker set and cam. DW also recommends getting
beefed-up bearing caps with these mods but I stopped w/the above and did not
modify the bottom end.
I have no idea how much power all these bolt-ons have added to the car but it
is pretty fast. Another lister, the venerable Dave Russell, has similar mods
on his 100 M and he has, I believe, done some dyno testing of his car--I'm
sure he will fill us in.
Good luck--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2004 00:48:41 +1100
Subject: Re: Roller Rockers - was BN1 Aluminum Head
If you fit high lift rockers - lets firstly understand that the benefit is
primarily in the higher lift, secondly in the light weight, and finally in
the roller tip.
If you push a valve too much further out of the head than the factory
designed - the exhaust valve hits the block. Its a Westlake Head thing,
which eg Hemi head engines don't suffer from.
A series or C series - big lift = valve opens into head not into bore = fact
of life.
High lift is good : )
Not accurately measuring - and insufficently relieving the block face - and
subsequently smacking valves into the block face at 6,000rpm - is bad. : (
I have 1.62:1 ratio rockers (made in Australia - post alignment was a
fitting issue) with a high lift (.428 at the cam?? from memory) = over 500
thou lift at the valve after you subtract valve clearance. It requires valve
pockts in the block. You need to carefully measure, dry assemble, and use
plasticine and recheck. And allow for expansion, and torque up everything
etc. But don't make the valve pockets in the block so deep that you expose
the top ring to combustion temperatures.
Read the Vizard Book on A Series engines, The benefit of the 'roller' tip is
minimal - and NEVER consider a roller rocker if the supplier has used roller
bearings running on the rocker shaft - only on the tip. How well do you stop
and change direction by 180degrees at 6,000 rpm?
High lift rockers open valves further, without 'camminess'. But they require
a lighter valve train, and carefull - REALLY carefull - assembly to work
reliably on a road engine which is espected to be reliable for a long period
of time. There is no such thing as free horsepower - high lift rockers are
the closest you'll get....
Enjoy!!
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Bromfield" <Alan.Bromfield@ntl.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2004 10:22 PM
Subject: Roller Rockers - was BN1 Aluminum Head
> Hey Guys.
> Thats a great link from Alan 'Blue100'. Priced at about 60% of the Denis
> Welch offering here in UK.
> The company offer 1.5, 1.55 and 1.6 ratios. Can anyone provide guidance
on
> selection in a 29D engine with BJ8 cam?
> Thanks........
> Alan Bromfield
> http://nfahc.co.uk
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On
> Behalf Of Blue One Hundred
> Sent: 04 February 2004 08:13
> To: David; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: BN1 Aluminum Head
>
>
> David -
>
> If you decide to go with roller rockers, there's a
> specialist outfit in the US that makes a beautiful
> roller rocker set for both healey engines:
>
> http://www.rockerarms.com/
>
> you can see the set right on the home page, plus the
> price is much cheaper than buying from Dennis Welch.
>
> I think a couple people on this list use these
> rockers. Would love to hear first hand experiences.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '64 BJ8
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2004 06:58:38 -0800
Subject: Re: Roller Rockers - was BN1 Aluminum Head
One question I have for Chris and the List is whether RAS uses
steel or hard Al pedestals ... I think DW and others at least imply
you should use a stronger pedestal when using high-lift rockers; looks
like RAS would reuse stock pedestals.
One other thing, be sure to check for spring binding.
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: "Alan Bromfield" <Alan.Bromfield@ntl.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2004 5:48 AM
Subject: Re: Roller Rockers - was BN1 Aluminum Head
> Yes - good find!
>
> If you fit high lift rockers - lets firstly understand that the benefit is
> primarily in the higher lift, secondly in the light weight, and finally in
> the roller tip.
>
> If you push a valve too much further out of the head than the factory
> designed - the exhaust valve hits the block. Its a Westlake Head thing,
> which eg Hemi head engines don't suffer from.
>
> A series or C series - big lift = valve opens into head not into bore = fact
> of life.
>
> High lift is good : )
>
> Not accurately measuring - and insufficently relieving the block face - and
> subsequently smacking valves into the block face at 6,000rpm - is bad. : (
>
> I have 1.62:1 ratio rockers (made in Australia - post alignment was a
> fitting issue) with a high lift (.428 at the cam?? from memory) = over 500
> thou lift at the valve after you subtract valve clearance. It requires valve
> pockts in the block. You need to carefully measure, dry assemble, and use
> plasticine and recheck. And allow for expansion, and torque up everything
> etc. But don't make the valve pockets in the block so deep that you expose
> the top ring to combustion temperatures.
>
> Read the Vizard Book on A Series engines, The benefit of the 'roller' tip is
> minimal - and NEVER consider a roller rocker if the supplier has used roller
> bearings running on the rocker shaft - only on the tip. How well do you stop
> and change direction by 180degrees at 6,000 rpm?
>
> High lift rockers open valves further, without 'camminess'. But they require
> a lighter valve train, and carefull - REALLY carefull - assembly to work
> reliably on a road engine which is espected to be reliable for a long period
> of time. There is no such thing as free horsepower - high lift rockers are
> the closest you'll get....
>
> Enjoy!!
>
> Chris
From Alan Bromfield <Alan.Bromfield at ntl.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2004 15:02:05 -0000
Subject: RE: Roller Rockers - was BN1 Aluminum Head
I appreciate the insights. I've carried out similar work on Norton engines
- in those the pockets are in the pistons. Same technique though,
plasticine and no head gasket etc. Just very new to these Big Healey
lumps.
I am not after high horsepower but want good torque in the mid-range, a
solid, slow tick-over (idle) and quiet running. I haven't found out what
the standard rocker ratio is yet (I'm in work), so have nothing to compare
the ratio's offered against. My guess is that higher lift will give higher
power at highest revs - so that isn't the plan here. Of course they look
to be very nice engine jewellery too!!
I'm having trouble getting my head round whether a higher lift ratio,
Together with a degree or two retard on the valve timing, will improve
mid-range.
My BJ8 is standard (as far as I can tell) but fitted with a Piper
'Fast Road' cam. I haven't pinned down the grind as it was installed by
the PO. Could be 270 or 285, but it's a pig for road use! Lumpy tickover
and rich exhaust fumes at around 1200rpm! Very anti-social at the traffic
lights. Hence the decision to stay with a BJ8 grind in the 29D engine
(for the BN4).
That leads into the next decision question of course. 1, Live with it, or
2,pull the cam and followers and put a BJ8 back in.
Hmmmmmm.........spring is round the corner so not much time left if I'm
going to swop it out before the driving season opens up again.
Decisions, decisions.
Regards.............
Alan Bromfield
BJ8 Driver
BN4 Project
http://www.nfahc.co.uk
(correct URL this time - Doh!)
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Dimmock [mailto:cd3000@bigpond.net.au]
Sent: 04 February 2004 13:49
To: Alan Bromfield;
Subject: Re: Roller Rockers - was BN1 Aluminum Head
Yes - good find!
If you fit high lift rockers - lets firstly understand that the benefit is
primarily in the higher lift, secondly in the light weight, and finally in
the roller tip.
If you push a valve too much further out of the head than the factory
designed - the exhaust valve hits the block. Its a Westlake Head thing,
which eg Hemi head engines don't suffer from.
A series or C series - big lift = valve opens into head not into bore = fact
of life.
High lift is good : )
Not accurately measuring - and insufficently relieving the block face - and
subsequently smacking valves into the block face at 6,000rpm - is bad. : (
I have 1.62:1 ratio rockers (made in Australia - post alignment was a
fitting issue) with a high lift (.428 at the cam?? from memory) = over 500
thou lift at the valve after you subtract valve clearance. It requires valve
pockts in the block. You need to carefully measure, dry assemble, and use
plasticine and recheck. And allow for expansion, and torque up everything
etc. But don't make the valve pockets in the block so deep that you expose
the top ring to combustion temperatures.
Read the Vizard Book on A Series engines, The benefit of the 'roller' tip is
minimal - and NEVER consider a roller rocker if the supplier has used roller
bearings running on the rocker shaft - only on the tip. How well do you stop
and change direction by 180degrees at 6,000 rpm?
High lift rockers open valves further, without 'camminess'. But they require
a lighter valve train, and carefull - REALLY carefull - assembly to work
reliably on a road engine which is espected to be reliable for a long period
of time. There is no such thing as free horsepower - high lift rockers are
the closest you'll get....
Enjoy!!
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Bromfield" <Alan.Bromfield@ntl.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2004 10:22 PM
Subject: Roller Rockers - was BN1 Aluminum Head
> Hey Guys.
> Thats a great link from Alan 'Blue100'. Priced at about 60% of the Denis
> Welch offering here in UK.
> The company offer 1.5, 1.55 and 1.6 ratios. Can anyone provide guidance
on
> selection in a 29D engine with BJ8 cam?
> Thanks........
> Alan Bromfield
> http://nfahc.co.uk
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On
> Behalf Of Blue One Hundred
> Sent: 04 February 2004 08:13
> To: David; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: BN1 Aluminum Head
>
>
> David -
>
> If you decide to go with roller rockers, there's a
> specialist outfit in the US that makes a beautiful
> roller rocker set for both healey engines:
>
> http://www.rockerarms.com/
>
> you can see the set right on the home page, plus the
> price is much cheaper than buying from Dennis Welch.
>
> I think a couple people on this list use these
> rockers. Would love to hear first hand experiences.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '64 BJ8
The contents of this email and any attachments are sent for the personal
attention
of the addressee(s) only and may be confidential. If you are not the intended
addressee, any use, disclosure or copying of this email and any attachments is
unauthorised - please notify the sender by return and delete the message. Any
representations or commitments expressed in this email are subject to contract.
ntl Group Limited
From Brett Bonner <bbbonner at fedex.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2004 09:28:16 -0600
Subject: What is the Red Paint code for 1959 BN6
Thanks!
From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2004 09:46:27 -0600
Subject: RE: Sleeving a cylinder
-----Original Message-----
From: Freese, Ken [mailto:Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2004 6:36 PM
To: 'Olin Brimberry'; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Sleeving a cylinder
Olin,
I did it to my BN4 in 1971 with no problems.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
From GSFuqua1 at aol.com
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2004 11:18:05 EST
Subject: 56 BN2 Shift Lever Needed
Gary Fuqua
Branson, Missouri
From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2004 11:53:19 EST
Subject: Re: BJ8 Front Crank Seal & Nut
> Are you suggesting they still use Whitworth bolts on a
> Cheiftan tank? Or have they switched to that French
> system of measurement yet, I think it's called
> "Metrix" or some such nonsense.
>
Well, now..that's all covered by the Official Secrets Act of which I am a
signatory, but then so is every man and his dog. Suffice it to say that I'd
have
to set 007 on you if someone let slip such vital information! Chieftans are
well superseded by now and we're into the second main variant of their
successor, the Challenger. Gawd knows if they're Mitrac - was that it? They
made it to
the Gulf so they must have something on those threaded things.
Simon
From "David" <dcrawfor at san.rr.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2004 09:53:33 -0800
Subject: BN1 Aluminum Head
Huge thanks to Alan, Dave, Norman, Roland, Michael,
Curt and others who have writtten to me directly.
David Crawford
San Diego
BN1
From Eric Wells <eric at associatedprinting.biz>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2004 13:17:06 -0500
Subject: Fitting Overdrive to Gearbox
I marked the peg location on disassembly but it lines up with a very
rough indentation on the housing not one of the two drilled holes.
Lining the peg up with a drilled hole would seem to give a better seal.
My hesitation comes from previously experienced problems with idiot PO
and blind, paralyzed mechanic he apparently used.
Eric Wells
67 BJ8 in WNC
"Making money is easy. Keeping it is what's difficult."
From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2004 10:28:30 -0800 (PST)
Subject: re. Re: Engine ID Number
Date: Tue, 03 Feb 2004 19:55:23 -0800
From: Ron Fine <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Engine ID Number
Talking about engine ID plates, I was wondering if it
is safe or possible to stamp the engine number into
the block under the plate. I have a lettering/number
kit for stamping keys, etc. Would it be possible to
use it to stamp a number on the block or would that
risk cracking the block?
__________________________________
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free web site building tool. Try it!
http://webhosting.yahoo.com/ps/sb/
From David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Wed, 04 Feb 2004 11:01:33 -0800
Subject: Re: 56 BN2 Shift Lever Needed
> I am looking for a replacement shift lever for my BN2. If anyone can help
> please contact me off list. Thank you.
>
> Gary Fuqua
> Branson, Missouri
Yes we do have some used ones available.
--
--
David Nock
NEW E-mail Addresses!!!
David Nock, Technical Questions healeydoc@sbcglobal.net
Sheila Nock-Huggins, Parts Questions britishcardoc@sbcglobal.net
British Car Specialists 2060 N. Wilson Way Stockton CA 95205
Phone 209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030
http://www.britishcarspecialists.com
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Wed, 04 Feb 2004 12:24:59 -0800
Subject: Re: Sleeving a cylinder
Sorry, waiting on the paint to dry.
Terry Blubaugh
Now with 2- '60 BT7's in the garage
Brashear, Jack, N wrote:
>Hi All, sleeving works. My 29E block was already 0.030 over and I was
>scared to go any further. Although 0.060 pistons were available, the
>cylinder wall would have been very thin such that "barreling" and
>overheating were likely. Sleeved that L'il sucker back to std. bore and
>I couldn't be happier. Did the same to the 1275 in my Sprite and the
>18V engine in my Austin Marina. Good moves on all of them...anyway, it
>beats finding a replacement block if your engine is good otherwise.
>Just my $0.02 worth,
>Jack
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Freese, Ken [mailto:Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com]
>Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2004 6:36 PM
>To: 'Olin Brimberry'; healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: RE: Sleeving a cylinder
>
>Olin,
>I did it to my BN4 in 1971 with no problems.
>Ken Freese
>65 BJ8
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Wed, 04 Feb 2004 13:23:09 -0800
Subject: Re: Fitting Overdrive to Gearbox
The bearing housing that fits into the rear of the gearbox case can be
rotated in the case - they're usually tight and have to be drifted out, or
at least part way out so that the peg can be re-oriented to line up with the
hole in the overdrive adapter plate.
I usually mark the housing / case interface with a scribe mark as the unit
is being dismantled.
You can do this easily enough before everything is assembled - install the
bearing housing to the case and drop the adapter plate over the studs and
repeat as necessary until the pieces are aligned, then scribe. It will go
together easily that way when final assembly is done, and the next guy will
really appreciate your thoughtfulness!
Excuse me for not knowing - what is WNC?
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BT7 tri-carb
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric Wells" <eric@associatedprinting.biz>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2004 10:17 AM
Subject: Fitting Overdrive to Gearbox
I am putting the gearbox back together on a BJ8 and have a question
about the locating peg on the rear bearing between gearbox and
overdrive.
I marked the peg location on disassembly but it lines up with a very
rough indentation on the housing not one of the two drilled holes.
Lining the peg up with a drilled hole would seem to give a better seal.
My hesitation comes from previously experienced problems with idiot PO
and blind, paralyzed mechanic he apparently used.
Eric Wells
67 BJ8 in WNC
From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2004 21:54:19 +0000
Subject: Re: Sleeving a cylinder
OK, Terry, you asked!
There was a time when there were 4 dollars to the UK pound (heck, those
were the days!). A dollar was therefore 5 shillings (20 shillings to the
pound, pre-decimalisation). Five shillings was 60 old pence.
So ...
One UK penny was worth 1.6666 cents, or 2 cents to the nearest cent!
Just my penn'orth .....
--
Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
Webmaster for the UK's national Austin Healey Club at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
From Olin Brimberry <olin.brimberry.b at bayer.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2004 16:57:39 -0500
Subject: List responses - sleeving a cylinder is "OK"
Best Regards,
Olin Brimberry
Raleigh, NC
62 BT7
From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2004 14:09:03 -0800
Subject: RE: stamping your parts
From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2004 17:06:24 -0500
Subject: New England wintertime jaunt
Great fun Walter Mitty style.
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
Amateur Radio AI2Q
http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
.-.-.
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2004 17:28:42 -0500
Subject: Re: Sleeving a cylinder
:)
Keith Pennell
> >Thanks Jack, good input. However, I'm still trying to figure this out
> >. . . . . Why does everyone put in their .02 worth, when it's only a
> >penny for your thoughts?? Where did that other penny go to?
> >Sorry, waiting on the paint to dry.
> >
> >Terry Blubaugh
> >Now with 2- '60 BT7's in the garage
> >
>
>
> OK, Terry, you asked!
>
> There was a time when there were 4 dollars to the UK pound (heck, those
> were the days!). A dollar was therefore 5 shillings (20 shillings to the
> pound, pre-decimalisation). Five shillings was 60 old pence.
>
> So ...
>
> One UK penny was worth 1.6666 cents, or 2 cents to the nearest cent!
>
> Just my penn'orth .....
> --
> Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2004 17:30:54 -0500
Subject: Re: New England wintertime jaunt
Keith Pennell
> It was a beautiful almost Spring-like day here in southern Maine today, so
I
> fired up the Blue Mainie and went for a jaunt. Last night's heavy rainfall
> seemed to wash the salt off the roads, so I decided it was time.
>
> Great fun Walter Mitty style.
>
> == Alex in Maine
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2004 17:39:28 -0500
Subject: Another fuel gauge Q
Patches, the BN7, has been on the road now for almost 3 years after a frame up
resto. Everything has worked perfectly . . . well almost. About 4 months ago
the fuel gauge would occasionally just peg left. Later it would come back to
life. About 1 month ago it went left and has been there since. On my 30
minute drive today it did not come back to life.
I applied an extra ground to the sending unit and no reading. I checked for
voltage at the sending unit and none. I checked for voltage on the T terminal
of the gauge and none. I checked for voltage on the B terminal of the gauge
and got voltage.
Why is my gauge not working and what is necessary to fix it?
Somewhat electrically challenged
Keith Pennell
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Wed, 04 Feb 2004 15:49:02 -0700
Subject: Re: BN1 Aluminum Head
2,400 lb car weight. Had to leave some stuff out to get down to this
weight. Spare, tools, fuel.
Results for the stock 100-4 engine;
18.0 sec & 75 mph for the 1/4 mile. G-Tech peak rear wheel HP reading = 78.
Results for the modified engine. 100-M spec engine with DW head & exhaust;
16.2 sec & 84 mph for the 1/4 mile. G-Tech peak rear wheel HP reading = 110.
Not a lot of horsepower by any means, but a considerable increase over
stock.
Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
>
> I have no idea how much power all these bolt-ons have added to the car but it
> is pretty fast. Another lister, the venerable Dave Russell, has similar mods
> on his 100 M and he has, I believe, done some dyno testing of his car--I'm
> sure he will fill us in.
>
> Good luck--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2004 14:51:19 -0800 (PST)
Subject: AH 3000 clutch sizes
__________________________________
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free web site building tool. Try it!
http://webhosting.yahoo.com/ps/sb/
From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2004 18:06:07 -0500
Subject: Trans up-date
From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Wed, 04 Feb 2004 18:20:23 -0500
Subject: Re: Sleeving a cylinder
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan F Cross" <alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk>
To: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
Cc: "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear@garverengineers.com>; "Freese, Ken"
<Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>; "Olin Brimberry" <olin.brimberry.b@bayer.com>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2004 4:54 PM
Subject: Re: Sleeving a cylinder
| In message <4021551B.3090900@earthlink.net>, Terry Blubaugh
| <tblubaugh@earthlink.net> writes
| >Thanks Jack, good input. However, I'm still trying to figure this out
| >. . . . . Why does everyone put in their .02 worth, when it's only a
| >penny for your thoughts?? Where did that other penny go to?
| >Sorry, waiting on the paint to dry.
| >
| >Terry Blubaugh
| >Now with 2- '60 BT7's in the garage
| >
|
|
| OK, Terry, you asked!
|
| There was a time when there were 4 dollars to the UK pound (heck, those
| were the days!). A dollar was therefore 5 shillings (20 shillings to the
| pound, pre-decimalisation). Five shillings was 60 old pence.
|
| So ...
|
| One UK penny was worth 1.6666 cents, or 2 cents to the nearest cent!
|
| Just my penn'orth .....
| --
| Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
| Webmaster for the UK's national Austin Healey Club at:
| http://www.austin-healey-club.com
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2004 18:35:36 -0500
Subject: Re: Fitting Overdrive to Gearbox
Good Luck, Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric Wells" <eric@associatedprinting.biz>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2004 1:17 PM
Subject: Fitting Overdrive to Gearbox
> I am putting the gearbox back together on a BJ8 and have a question
> about the locating peg on the rear bearing between gearbox and
> overdrive.
>
> I marked the peg location on disassembly but it lines up with a very
> rough indentation on the housing not one of the two drilled holes.
> Lining the peg up with a drilled hole would seem to give a better seal.
> My hesitation comes from previously experienced problems with idiot PO
> and blind, paralyzed mechanic he apparently used.
>
> Eric Wells
> 67 BJ8 in WNC
From "Austrheamgafun at arczip.com" <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2004 19:04:29 -0500
Subject: Re: What is the Red Paint code for 1959 BN6
If it's Colorado Red that you're looking for, I found the formula in an old
BMC book listed for my '57 BN4. In fact, it's what I used on my car which is
also among the pages listed below....and I'm very happy with it. You'll find
the color actually varied here and there over the years, and the formula I
have listed on the web page is more red than orange. Some say the later
years were more red.....earlier years more orange.
http://users.arczip.com/zntech/coloradored.html
Scott Helms
Northern Indiana
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brett Bonner" <bbbonner@fedex.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2004 10:28 AM
Subject: What is the Red Paint code for 1959 BN6
> Hi - Would one of you be so kind as to tell me a proper red paint code for
a
> 100-6 2 seater BN6? While not concours, I was going to paint the side
> panels in Ivory, or black. If you have those codes, it would be great!
>
> Thanks!
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Wed, 04 Feb 2004 17:06:11 -0700
Subject: Re: Another fuel gauge Q
The T terminal or it's wiring is grounded somewhere.
Dave Russell
BN2
Keith Pennell wrote:
> Listers,
>
> Patches, the BN7, has been on the road now for almost 3 years after a frame up
> resto. Everything has worked perfectly . . . well almost. About 4 months ago
> the fuel gauge would occasionally just peg left. Later it would come back to
> life. About 1 month ago it went left and has been there since. On my 30
> minute drive today it did not come back to life.
>
> I applied an extra ground to the sending unit and no reading. I checked for
> voltage at the sending unit and none. I checked for voltage on the T terminal
> of the gauge and none. I checked for voltage on the B terminal of the gauge
> and got voltage.
>
> Why is my gauge not working and what is necessary to fix it?
>
> Somewhat electrically challenged
> Keith Pennell
From "Craig and Sue Rice" <craigsuerice at iquest.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2004 20:27:21 -0500
Subject: BN1 Axle Bumper
Craig Rice
Indianapolis, Indiana
craigsuerice@iquest.net
From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2004 20:45:55 -0500
Subject: Broken rear spring.
James Lea
Rockport Maine
1962 BT7 II
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2004 18:11:36 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Sleeving a cylinder
It's obvious. Most people are only willing to pay a
penny for someone's thoughts but to you... your own
supply of opinionated worth is definititly worth twice
the price of this market demand.
One should note these two cent opinions are usually
freely given...
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh@earthlink.net> wrote:
> Thanks Jack, good input. However, I'm still trying
> to figure this out .
> . . . . Why does everyone put in their .02 worth,
> when it's only a
> penny for your thoughts?? Where did that other
> penny go to?
>
> Sorry, waiting on the paint to dry.
>
> Terry Blubaugh
> Now with 2- '60 BT7's in the garage
>
>
> Brashear, Jack, N wrote:
>
> >Hi All, sleeving works. My 29E block was already
> 0.030 over and I was
> >scared to go any further. Although 0.060 pistons
> were available, the
> >cylinder wall would have been very thin such that
> "barreling" and
> >overheating were likely. Sleeved that L'il sucker
> back to std. bore and
> >I couldn't be happier. Did the same to the 1275 in
> my Sprite and the
> >18V engine in my Austin Marina. Good moves on all
> of them...anyway, it
> >beats finding a replacement block if your engine is
> good otherwise.
> >Just my $0.02 worth,
> >Jack
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: Freese, Ken [mailto:Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com]
> >Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2004 6:36 PM
> >To: 'Olin Brimberry'; healeys@autox.team.net
> >Subject: RE: Sleeving a cylinder
> >
> >Olin,
> >I did it to my BN4 in 1971 with no problems.
> >Ken Freese
> >65 BJ8
From "Bob Brown" <BlkBT7 at aol.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2004 20:34:05 -0600
Subject: Re: Trans up-date
> Question: is there one parts house that I should go to for syncros or
> do they
> all buy from the same supplier. So far so good and I am having a ball
> working
> on the car. Cheers, JL
From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2004 18:46:47 -0800 (PST)
Subject: 6cyl fan blower housing
__________________________________
Yahoo! Finance: Get your refund fast by filing online.
http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2004 18:49:06 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Broken rear spring.
ABSOLUTELY! Springs should always be replaced in
balanced pairs, otherwise your car could be dangerous
to drive.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- James Lea <clocks@midcoast.com> wrote:
> One of the last things I did before I put Ruby away
> for the winter was run a
> rally which had some pretty rough roads. When I was
> under the car today I
> found that the right rear spring has five of the
> seven leaves broken three
> inches in front of the axle. A replacement is $120.
> Is it necessary to change
> both rear springs. Thanks, JL
>
> James Lea
> Rockport Maine
> 1962 BT7 II
From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2004 19:14:00 -0800
Subject: 100S
E-BAY ITEM 2458494524
Kirk Kvam
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2004 22:16:59 -0800 (PST)
Subject: RE: stamping your parts
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com> wrote:
> We just figured out the third owner of a 100S
> because he marked his gas cap
> with his name when he sent the car to the painter in
> 1958.
> Ken Freese
> 65 3000
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Wed, 04 Feb 2004 22:46:37 -0800
Subject: Re: AH 3000 clutch sizes
The later diaphragm clutch (BJ8) pressure plate was not changed after
introduction, only the disc itself from 9 1/2" to 9", and they are
completely interchangeable in the same pressure plate assembly. The last
one I got from AP Lockeed actually measured about 9 1/4". It is worth
noting that the release bearing changed slightly (in 'height') at the same
time. (the new one will work in the earlier 10" clutch.)
I have no idea why the factory did this except that the diaphragm clutch has
a far better feel to it than the earlier one, and an easier pedal - seems to
be able to handle the slightly increased power of the BJ8 motor with no
problems. I also seem to recall that one of the Jags of the period used
essentially the same clutch set-up - maybe that's why.
I heartily recommend the change to the later clutch in your BT7 - I did it
in my BT7 and have been extremely pleased with it. Talk to Bill Bolton
about a lightened flywheel - if you are doing the other stuff, now would be
a good time to do that, as well. I've got one in both Healeys.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BT7 tri-carb
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2004 2:51 PM
Subject: AH 3000 clutch sizes
Hello again,
My question relates to AH 3000 clutch sizes. My 60
BT7 has a 10 clutch. Later cars had 9.5 and 9.0
clutches. Why were smaller dias introduced? At
minimum, Im planning to lighten my flywheel but not
sure of reasons (other than diaphram style) to
consider a later, smaller clutch. Does a small
diaphram clamp equiv/better than the larger, coil
spring style? A smaller dia means less centrificle
mass so I'm guessing those are the reasons but I'm not
really sure. I do understand they have different
dowel pin and attach bolt issues but why did they
change twice? Thanks for any comments,
Joe Mulqueen
'60 BT7
!
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2004 19:33:47 +1100
Subject: Re: Trans up-date
If you can get the transmission out of your Healey, with the engine in situ,
from underneath the car, can I respectfully suggest that you may have some
serious rust and/ or alignment issues with your chassis.....
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 05, 2004 10:06 AM
Subject: Trans up-date
> I managed to get the trans out today which took about four hours. Not too
bad
> considering I have never pulled a Healey trans before. It did come out the
top
> way but it looked like it would also come out the bottom if you chose to
do it
> that way. .........
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2004 00:47:34 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: AH 3000 clutch sizes
I seem to recall that the change had something to do
with marketing - I believe it had to do with trying to
attract more women drivers and older drivers to the
car... making the car feel more "sophisticated" like a
Jaguar. The diaphram clutch is probably cheaper to
make to boot.
I have a complete clutch set up at my house waiting to
go in the BJ8 (the clutch needs to be replaced). The
new AP Borg & Beck clutch disc I have for it measures
exactly 9-1/2" diameter. For your reference, I think
this is the exact same clutch disc used in the 100-6 .
My BJ8 currently has an old 9" disc in it which I
think is a mistake, frankly. I think the extra half
inch of the earlier 9-1/2" disc will go a long way to
making the clutch lasting much longer. I think I have
about 50,000 miles of hard hill driving in San
Francisco and Hong Kong on the current 9" disc.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca> wrote:
> Joe:
>
> The later diaphragm clutch (BJ8) pressure plate was
> not changed after
> introduction, only the disc itself from 9 1/2" to
> 9", and they are
> completely interchangeable in the same pressure
> plate assembly. The last
> one I got from AP Lockeed actually measured about 9
> 1/4". It is worth
> noting that the release bearing changed slightly (in
> 'height') at the same
> time. (the new one will work in the earlier 10"
> clutch.)
>
> I have no idea why the factory did this except that
> the diaphragm clutch has
> a far better feel to it than the earlier one, and an
> easier pedal - seems to
> be able to handle the slightly increased power of
> the BJ8 motor with no
> problems. I also seem to recall that one of the
> Jags of the period used
> essentially the same clutch set-up - maybe that's
> why.
>
> I heartily recommend the change to the later clutch
> in your BT7 - I did it
> in my BT7 and have been extremely pleased with it.
> Talk to Bill Bolton
> about a lightened flywheel - if you are doing the
> other stuff, now would be
> a good time to do that, as well. I've got one in
> both Healeys.
>
> Earl Kagna
> Victoria, B.C.
> BT7 tri-carb
> BJ8
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>
> To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2004 2:51 PM
> Subject: AH 3000 clutch sizes
>
>
> Hello again,
> My question relates to AH 3000 clutch sizes. My 60
> BT7 has a 10 clutch. Later cars had 9.5 and 9.0
> clutches. Why were smaller dias introduced? At
> minimum, Im planning to lighten my flywheel but not
> sure of reasons (other than diaphram style) to
> consider a later, smaller clutch. Does a small
> diaphram clamp equiv/better than the larger, coil
> spring style? A smaller dia means less centrificle
> mass so I'm guessing those are the reasons but I'm
> not
> really sure. I do understand they have different
> dowel pin and attach bolt issues but why did they
> change twice? Thanks for any comments,
> Joe Mulqueen
> '60 BT7
From TimWardUK at aol.com
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2004 04:31:37 EST
Subject: Oil Change
Knowing what a creative bunch you all are I am sure that you have found a
solution to this problem and I would be grateful if you could share some of
them
with me.
Thanks in advance
Tim
'67 BJ8
'59 Frogeye
From Alan Bromfield <Alan.Bromfield at ntl.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2004 10:39:46 -0000
Subject: RE: Oil Change
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?ts=77324&id=29430
Alan Bromfield
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of TimWardUK@aol.com
Sent: 05 February 2004 09:32
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Oil Change
Hi List
During the winter I do the full service of both cars. One of the jobs I like
least is filling up the differential with new oil. It is the most awkward
task
I know trying to squeeze a plastic bottle of oil into the inaccessible
filler
hole. This year I promised myself that I would find an alternative solution.
One option I have been pursuing is a pressurised oil can to deliver oil to
the
diff but the only ones I can locate are for professional use with a massive
capacity which would cost a fortune to fill. Another is a siphon pump,
obviously not for siphon use, but simply to suck oil out of the bottle and
then
deliver it to the filler hole. However, one I have tried does not have
enough
input/output capacity to lift the oil out of the bottle and up to the diff.
Knowing what a creative bunch you all are I am sure that you have found a
solution to this problem and I would be grateful if you could share some of
them
with me.
Thanks in advance
Tim
'67 BJ8
'59 Frogeye
The contents of this email and any attachments are sent for the personal
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From Rebeltown at aol.com
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2004 06:20:13 EST
Subject: Re: Oil Change
Gary Shunk '67 BJ8 #38427 N.J.
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2004 03:21:40 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Oil Change
In the US, Sta-lube sells a very handy hand pump that
fits neatly on their branded jugs of hypoid oil. It
will also fit on other bottles of gear oil. It's
cheap (about 5 bucks as I recall) and keeps the whole
process very clean. I would assume Castrol or Penrite
will sell something similar.
Your next best option is to go to a tool shop and
purchase an oil suction gun. It shouldn't cost more
than 10 to 15 quid and will more than likely look like
a metal cylinder about 3 inches in diameter with a
bicycle pump type handle (actually the thing is more
or less a bicycle pump) and a spout that can take a
1/2" flexible hose on the other end. These also work
very well and the capacity is about a quart. You can
see one here for what it looks like:
http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=619&catalogId=10101&langId=-1&storeId=10101
These are very good - they can handle the viscocity of
hypoid oils.
Hope that helps.
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- TimWardUK@aol.com wrote:
> Hi List
> During the winter I do the full service of both
> cars. One of the jobs I like
> least is filling up the differential with new oil.
> It is the most awkward task
> I know trying to squeeze a plastic bottle of oil
> into the inaccessible filler
> hole. This year I promised myself that I would find
> an alternative solution.
> One option I have been pursuing is a pressurised oil
> can to deliver oil to the
> diff but the only ones I can locate are for
> professional use with a massive
> capacity which would cost a fortune to fill. Another
> is a siphon pump,
> obviously not for siphon use, but simply to suck oil
> out of the bottle and then
> deliver it to the filler hole. However, one I have
> tried does not have enough
> input/output capacity to lift the oil out of the
> bottle and up to the diff.
>
> Knowing what a creative bunch you all are I am sure
> that you have found a
> solution to this problem and I would be grateful if
> you could share some of them
> with me.
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Tim
> '67 BJ8
> '59 Frogeye
From Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Thu, 05 Feb 2004 06:30:05 -0500
Subject: Austin-Healey parts available in California
Susan contacted me about some parts she has available. Please contact
her directly if interested.
Bob
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Hello Bob,
I am Susan Phelps and have some Austin Healy parts.
Since the Austins that my dad owned were 1954 and 1955
I would assume that the parts would fall in this era.
I have one fender, some wheels with and with out spokes.
One splined hub, Engine block, some scrapy bumpers and
asorted other parts, like window sidecurtains, and a transmission.
Would there be an interest in them out there? The parts are here
in Burbank, California. I have some photos and probably could take more.
Thanks for your time,
Susan Phelps
sidecarsusie@earthlink.net
p.s. also have some parts for 1955 Triumph TR2, one transmission
with overdrive and one without, and window frame.
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at westnet.com.au>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2004 19:40:37 +0800
Subject: Fw: Oil Change
One question.
Why would you want to change the diff oil every year? It shouldn't get
contaminated unless you drive through deep water and it comes in the
breather hole. My diff oil has been in the car since the restoration four
years and is still like new even though the car is used in dusty conditions
and raced and rallied as much as possible.
However, I have a little pump bottle called a mighty mite that holds one
litre and has a push knob on top and pumps the oil up through a hose into
the diff filler hole.
Takes no time at all and is reasonably clean and I think was made in the UK.
Cheers from a hot and dusty WA
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
----- Original Message -----
> From: <TimWardUK@aol.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, February 05, 2004 5:31 PM
> Subject: Oil Change
>
>
> > Hi List
> > During the winter I do the full service of both cars. One of the jobs I
> like
> > least is filling up the differential with new oil. It is the most
awkward
> task
> > I know trying to squeeze a plastic bottle of oil into the inaccessible
> filler
> > hole. This year I promised myself that I would find an alternative
> solution.
> > One option I have been pursuing is a pressurised oil can to deliver oil
to
> the
> > diff but the only ones I can locate are for professional use with a
> massive
> > capacity which would cost a fortune to fill. Another is a siphon pump,
> > obviously not for siphon use, but simply to suck oil out of the bottle
and
> then
> > deliver it to the filler hole. However, one I have tried does not have
> enough
> > input/output capacity to lift the oil out of the bottle and up to the
> diff.
> >
> > Knowing what a creative bunch you all are I am sure that you have found
a
> > solution to this problem and I would be grateful if you could share some
> of them
> > with me.
> >
> > Thanks in advance
> >
> > Tim
> > '67 BJ8
> > '59 Frogeye
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2004 23:02:04 +1100
Subject: Re: Oil Change
If you are in the process of rebuilding your rear axle assembly, the easiest
diff oil refill in your history with your car is when you put one axle back
in; and then lower that side of the car - and go over to the other side.
Just before you put the other axle back into the banjo - whilst seated on
your favourite stool/ creeper chair etc - you can just pour the required
quantity of diff oil straight into the elevated end of the diff banjo.....
Then refit the axle...
Job done. 30 seconds. Can even be sipping a beer while you pour in the
oil.....
: )
>From then on - for the rest of your Healey ownership - you will always be
under the car (usually on your back - unless you have a pit) - using an oil
gun; horse syringe; juryrigged plunger arrangement; squeezee bottle etc to
refill your diff........... And the smell of mineral oil is one of the worst
'oil' smells in the history of the car.....
An oil gun with a long plastic tube is the best answer - hand pump plungers
take forever. And a good oil gun can also be used for filling the gearbox.
Less mess, and you don't have to end up laying in the stuff. One of those
jobs where the sooner its done - the better.
Chris.
----- Original Message -----
From: <TimWardUK@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 05, 2004 8:31 PM
Subject: Oil Change
> Hi List
> During the winter I do the full service of both cars. One of the jobs I
like
> least is filling up the differential with new oil. It is the most awkward
task
> I know trying to squeeze a plastic bottle of oil into the inaccessible
filler
> hole. This year I promised myself that I would find an alternative
solution.
> One option I have been pursuing is a pressurised oil can to deliver oil to
the
> diff but the only ones I can locate are for professional use with a
massive
> capacity which would cost a fortune to fill. Another is a siphon pump,
> obviously not for siphon use, but simply to suck oil out of the bottle and
then
> deliver it to the filler hole. However, one I have tried does not have
enough
> input/output capacity to lift the oil out of the bottle and up to the
diff.
>
> Knowing what a creative bunch you all are I am sure that you have found a
> solution to this problem and I would be grateful if you could share some
of them
> with me.
>
> Thanks in advance
From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2004 08:14:52 -0500
Subject: Re: New England wintertime jaunt
Tom
> [Original Message]
> From: Keith Pennell <pennell@cox.net>
> To: Alex <alexmm@adelphia.net>; Healeys \(E-mail\)
<healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 2/4/04 5:32:47 PM
> Subject: Re: New England wintertime jaunt
>
> And I took Patches out today for the same reasons! Ran wonderfully!
What a
> treat to hear the Healey rumble again!
>
> Keith Pennell
>
>
> > It was a beautiful almost Spring-like day here in southern Maine today,
so
> I
> > fired up the Blue Mainie and went for a jaunt. Last night's heavy
rainfall
> > seemed to wash the salt off the roads, so I decided it was time.
> >
> > Great fun Walter Mitty style.
> >
> > == Alex in Maine
From John Harper <AH at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2004 11:33:01 +0000
Subject: Re: AH 3000 clutch sizes
The diaphragm spring clutch is quite a clever enhancement over the
multiple spring version. The fact that it was cheaper to make was
obviously significant but the technical advantages are still very
valuable. Below is an interesting extract taken for a motoring textbook.
***********************************
This very compact design of single plate clutch eliminates the need for
a series of coil springs by using a diaphragm to provide the clamping
pressure.
The diaphragm spring is a steel disc, pivoted to the cover and connected
at the outer edge to the pressure plate. The centre of the disc is
slotted to form a number of fingers on to which is mounted a release
plate. This plate is contacted with a normal type of release bearing.
Protrusions on the pressure plate fit into slots in the driving plate to
provide a drive between the two members.
The diaphragm spring forms a convex or dished shape while in an unloaded
state. Clamping the clutch to the flywheel flattens the spring and
provides the necessary thrust on the pressure plate and friction
facings.
When the pedal is depressed, the release bearing pushes the centre of
the spring towards the flywheel and causes the outer edge to move in the
opposite direction. This disengages the pressure plate from the friction
facings.
The pedal effort needed to disengage this type of clutch is far less
than that required on a conventional clutch. This is because the load
exerted by the diaphragm spring does not increase proportion-ally to the
deflection. Maximum load, or spring thrust, occurs when the spring is
flat, but when the spring is deflected past this point, the load
decreases. (This effect can be felt when the bottom of a tin can is
pressed in - the force increases up to a point where the lid is flat,
but from then on, a much smaller force is required.) The pedal effort
required to 'hold-out' the clutch is less than that needed to produce
the initial disengagement.
Lining wear on orthodox clutches causes the springs to extend, and this
decreases the thrust on the plate. With the diaphragm type, the spring
can be set so that no decrease in thrust occurs, in fact a slight
increase in thrust is achieved.
The following is a summary of the advantages of diaphragm spring
clutches:
(1) easier disengagement
(2) suitable for extra-high engine speeds-constant spring thrust and
accurate balance are maintained
(3) no separate release levers are required, giving improved release
efficiency
(4) fewer parts required
(5) compensation for friction facing wear
(6) compactness.
*******************************
All the best
>
>I seem to recall that the change had something to do
>with marketing - I believe it had to do with trying to
>attract more women drivers and older drivers to the
>car... making the car feel more "sophisticated" like a
>Jaguar. The diaphram clutch is probably cheaper to
>make to boot.
>
>I have a complete clutch set up at my house waiting to
>go in the BJ8 (the clutch needs to be replaced). The
>new AP Borg & Beck clutch disc I have for it measures
>exactly 9-1/2" diameter. For your reference, I think
>this is the exact same clutch disc used in the 100-6 .
>
>My BJ8 currently has an old 9" disc in it which I
>think is a mistake, frankly. I think the extra half
>inch of the earlier 9-1/2" disc will go a long way to
>making the clutch lasting much longer. I think I have
>about 50,000 miles of hard hill driving in San
>Francisco and Hong Kong on the current 9" disc.
>
>Cheers,
>
>Alan
>
>'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
>
>
>--- Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca> wrote:
>> Joe:
>>
>> The later diaphragm clutch (BJ8) pressure plate was
>> not changed after
>> introduction, only the disc itself from 9 1/2" to
>> 9", and they are
>> completely interchangeable in the same pressure
>> plate assembly. The last
>> one I got from AP Lockeed actually measured about 9
>> 1/4". It is worth
>> noting that the release bearing changed slightly (in
>> 'height') at the same
>> time. (the new one will work in the earlier 10"
>> clutch.)
>>
>> I have no idea why the factory did this except that
>> the diaphragm clutch has
>> a far better feel to it than the earlier one, and an
>> easier pedal - seems to
>> be able to handle the slightly increased power of
>> the BJ8 motor with no
>> problems. I also seem to recall that one of the
>> Jags of the period used
>> essentially the same clutch set-up - maybe that's
>> why.
>>
>> I heartily recommend the change to the later clutch
>> in your BT7 - I did it
>> in my BT7 and have been extremely pleased with it.
>> Talk to Bill Bolton
>> about a lightened flywheel - if you are doing the
>> other stuff, now would be
>> a good time to do that, as well. I've got one in
>> both Healeys.
>>
>> Earl Kagna
>> Victoria, B.C.
>> BT7 tri-carb
>> BJ8
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>
>> To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2004 2:51 PM
>> Subject: AH 3000 clutch sizes
>>
>>
>> Hello again,
>> My question relates to AH 3000 clutch sizes. My 60
>> BT7 has a 10 clutch. Later cars had 9.5 and 9.0
>> clutches. Why were smaller dias introduced? At
>> minimum, Im planning to lighten my flywheel but not
>> sure of reasons (other than diaphram style) to
>> consider a later, smaller clutch. Does a small
>> diaphram clamp equiv/better than the larger, coil
>> spring style? A smaller dia means less centrificle
>> mass so I'm guessing those are the reasons but I'm
>> not
>> really sure. I do understand they have different
>> dowel pin and attach bolt issues but why did they
>> change twice? Thanks for any comments,
>> Joe Mulqueen
>> '60 BT7
>
>
--
John Harper
From Olin Brimberry <olin.brimberry.b at bayer.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2004 09:11:45 -0500
Subject: LeMans or PL Tri-pod Headlights
Best Regards,
Olin Brimberry
Raleigh, NC
62 BT7
From Olin Brimberry <olin.brimberry.b at bayer.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2004 09:17:10 -0500
Subject: Lucas Headlight Rims
Best Regards,
Olin Brimberry
Raleigh, NC
62 BT7
From "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER at netl.doe.gov>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Thu, 05 Feb 2004 10:41:27 -0500
Subject: Re: Oil Change
Randy Cooper
BT7 and ex-boat owner
>>> <TimWardUK@aol.com> 02/05/04 04:31AM >>>
Hi List
During the winter I do the full service of both cars. One of the jobs I
like
least is filling up the differential with new oil. It is the most
awkward task
I know trying to squeeze a plastic bottle of oil into the inaccessible
filler
hole. This year I promised myself that I would find an alternative
solution.
One option I have been pursuing is a pressurised oil can to deliver oil
to the
diff but the only ones I can locate are for professional use with a
massive
capacity which would cost a fortune to fill. Another is a siphon pump,
obviously not for siphon use, but simply to suck oil out of the bottle
and then
deliver it to the filler hole. However, one I have tried does not have
enough
input/output capacity to lift the oil out of the bottle and up to the
diff.
Knowing what a creative bunch you all are I am sure that you have found
a
solution to this problem and I would be grateful if you could share
some of them
with me.
Thanks in advance
Tim
'67 BJ8
'59 Frogeye
From David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Thu, 05 Feb 2004 08:05:39 -0800
Subject: Re: Trans up-date
We had one of these in a car that we recieved in the middle of a
restortaion. The engine and trans had already been re built. So we installed
them as they were. The car never even had the body installed and the
transmission was starting to shift hard on road tests. The syncros were worn
out on 3rd and 4th gears.
We have been supplying a special hardened syncro for about 10 years
that we have had no problems with.
--
--
David Nock
NEW E-mail Addresses!!!
David Nock, Technical Questions healeydoc@sbcglobal.net
Sheila Nock-Huggins, Parts Questions britishcardoc@sbcglobal.net
British Car Specialists 2060 N. Wilson Way Stockton CA 95205
Phone 209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030
http://www.britishcarspecialists.com
From David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Thu, 05 Feb 2004 08:21:36 -0800
Subject: Re: Lucas Headlight Rims
> I can't seem to find any OEM headlight rims that are not outrageously
> expensive,
> so I have come to the realization that I am going to have to spend way more
> than
> I would like. My problem is that I do not know where to buy them other than
> EBAY and they seem to only have 1 at a time or the BJ series rims. I am
> looking
> for a complete pair. If someone knows where I can pick up a good pair, I will
> be willing to pay market price for them.
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Olin Brimberry
> Raleigh, NC
> 62 BT7
Olin we have most of them avilavble new, we also have some good used ones
that could be re plated.
--
--
David Nock
NEW E-mail Addresses!!!
David Nock, Technical Questions healeydoc@sbcglobal.net
Sheila Nock-Huggins, Parts Questions britishcardoc@sbcglobal.net
British Car Specialists 2060 N. Wilson Way Stockton CA 95205
Phone 209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030
http://www.britishcarspecialists.com
From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2004 09:31:44 -0800 (PST)
Subject: re.Re: Broken rear spring
Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2004 18:49:06 -0800 (PST)
From: Blue One Hundred
<international_investor@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Broken rear spring.
James -
ABSOLUTELY! Springs should always be replaced in
balanced pairs, otherwise your car could be dangerous
to drive.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
- --- James Lea <clocks@midcoast.com> wrote:
> One of the last things I did before I put Ruby away
> for the winter was run a
> rally which had some pretty rough roads. When I was
> under the car today I
> found that the right rear spring has five of the
> seven leaves broken three
> inches in front of the axle. A replacement is $120.
> Is it necessary to change
> both rear springs. Thanks, JL
>
> James Lea
__________________________________
Yahoo! Finance: Get your refund fast by filing online.
http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html
From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Thu, 05 Feb 2004 12:58:30 -0500
Subject: Re: Oil Change
http://www.boatus-store.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CategoryDisplay?catalo
gId=20002&storeId=20002&categoryId=170&langId=-1&subdeptNum=169&storeNum=6
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <TimWardUK@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 05, 2004 10:41 AM
Subject: Re: Oil Change
| Tim,
| If you have or know someone who has an outboard motor there is an
| annual maintenance requirement to change the "transmission" oil on these
| engines. Boat shops sell a plastic pump gizmo that screws into the top
| of the lube bottle to make this frequent task pretty painless. The same
| gizmo will likewise fit into the top of the plastic bottles our gear oil
| comes in. Filler hole access problems on cars are virtually
| eliminated.
|
| Randy Cooper
| BT7 and ex-boat owner
|
| >>> <TimWardUK@aol.com> 02/05/04 04:31AM >>>
| Hi List
| During the winter I do the full service of both cars. One of the jobs I
| like
| least is filling up the differential with new oil. It is the most
| awkward task
| I know trying to squeeze a plastic bottle of oil into the inaccessible
| filler
| hole. This year I promised myself that I would find an alternative
| solution.
| One option I have been pursuing is a pressurised oil can to deliver oil
| to the
| diff but the only ones I can locate are for professional use with a
| massive
| capacity which would cost a fortune to fill. Another is a siphon pump,
|
| obviously not for siphon use, but simply to suck oil out of the bottle
| and then
| deliver it to the filler hole. However, one I have tried does not have
| enough
| input/output capacity to lift the oil out of the bottle and up to the
| diff.
|
| Knowing what a creative bunch you all are I am sure that you have found
| a
| solution to this problem and I would be grateful if you could share
| some of them
| with me.
|
| Thanks in advance
|
| Tim
| '67 BJ8
| '59 Frogeye
From OldHealeys at aol.com
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2004 13:13:30 EST
Subject: Schumacher in Austin Healey
Bill Emerson
Author "The Healey Book"
Who also loves F1 racing
From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2004 13:23:17 -0500
Subject: Re: re.Re: Broken rear spring
James Lea
Rockport Maine
1962 BT7 II
From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2004 15:17:11 -0500
Subject: Re: Schumacher in Austin Healey
James Lea
Rockport Maine
1962 BT7 II
From Slvrbulit2 at aol.com
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2004 15:32:28 EST
Subject: oil change
From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2004 15:48:33 -0500
Subject: Re: Schumacher in Austin Healey
Dear Bill, Yes, we have been guilty of associating with F1-type
people for 5 years now. You might have seen a photo of John Healey
driving M. Schumacher around Gilles-Villeneuve in 2002. The club had
invited John and Joy Healey as part of the 50 th anniversary
celebrations. They very graciously accepted and John was loaned a car
by one of our members, Louis Donolo.
The Canadian Grand Prix Driver's parade is organised every year by
Roger Hamel. It is not an official AHCA club activity, but it is
controled by the Canadian Grand Prix, and the rights for picture
usage are restricted by them. If you want to publish our photos, or
for more info, contact Roger at: roghamel@total.net
Cheers,
Alain Giguhre
AHCQ, VP & Editor
From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2004 16:58:27 -0500
Subject: Re: Oil Change
Differential oil (90W, hypoid, etc.) here in the States usually comes in
cylindrical plastic bottles with a pointed spout/cap. I use a suitable length
of the proper diameter clear plastic tubing to fit tightly on the spout, and
access the differential by removal of the right rear seat pan (this is made
easier on my car due to the fact that I replaced the stud/nut seat pan
attachment with a screw/anchor nut modification. This also makes it easier to
access the primary and backup fuel pumps and fuel filter when necessary).
Once I remove the diff filler plug, it's a simple matter to feed the plastic
tube into the filler from above, and squeeze the bottle to fill the diff. The
car is standing level on the garage floor, so I fill until the oil starts to
run out.
Good luck!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: TimWardUK@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, February 05, 2004 4:31 AM
Subject: Oil Change
Hi List
During the winter I do the full service of both cars. One of the jobs I like
least is filling up the differential with new oil. It is the most awkward
task
I know trying to squeeze a plastic bottle of oil into the inaccessible
filler
hole. This year I promised myself that I would find an alternative solution.
One option I have been pursuing is a pressurised oil can to deliver oil to
the
diff but the only ones I can locate are for professional use with a massive
capacity which would cost a fortune to fill. Another is a siphon pump,
obviously not for siphon use, but simply to suck oil out of the bottle and
then
deliver it to the filler hole. However, one I have tried does not have
enough
input/output capacity to lift the oil out of the bottle and up to the diff.
Knowing what a creative bunch you all are I am sure that you have found a
solution to this problem and I would be grateful if you could share some of
them
with me.
Thanks in advance
Tim
'67 BJ8
'59 Frogeye
From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Fri, 06 Feb 2004 11:08:33 +1100
Subject: Re: Schumacher in Austin Healey
OldHealeys@aol.com wrote:
> The Feb 2004 issue of "F1" magazine has a photo of M. Schumacher in an
> Austin-Healey on page 144. Are there any people on this list that have
>photos of
> the F1 drivers riding in Healeys? Australia and Canada have both used Healeys
> as rides before the start of F1 races.
>
> Bill Emerson
> Author "The Healey Book"
> Who also loves F1 racing
From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2004 20:04:47 -0500
Subject: RE: Another fuel gauge Q
Don't feel bad. Sometimes electrical problems can be elusive or touchy,
especially with old gauges and old connectors, and old wiring harnesses.
If your voltmeter is a multi-meter (one that reads resistance in ohms as
well as voltage in volts), then I'd suggest making a few tests. You're
dealing with a very basic series circuit, so don't be put off. It's not that
complicated.
In proper operation, electrons flow from the -12-V fuse to the gauge, then
through the gauge's meter movement (magnetically moving it), and then to the
sender, then through the sender's variable resistance element, and thence to
ground (plus). Think of it like petrol flowing in a pipeline. Current flow
moves from one point to another, going through every element or every point
in the "pipeline."
Now, with no negative voltage on Terminal T (with your voltmeter leads on T
and chassis ground) of the gauge, but with negative voltage at Terminal B
(from B to ground), it's possible that the gauge is (a) open internally, or
(b) the wiring at terminal T is shorted totally or partially to ground.
As I said, Terminal B is fed -12-V directly from the fuse block. The fact
that you have negative voltage with respect to the car's chassis there is
good.
Try this: (1) disconnect the battery, or turn off the boot switch, and (2)
pull the green/black wire GB at the back of the gauge. This is the wire
going to the tank sender. Then (3) turn on the battery. Then see if there's
negative voltage at terminal T (from T to ground). If not, the gauge is
electrically open, or there are some really cruddy contacts on the back of
the gauge (cleaning/polishing the contacts might help by reducing contact
resistance).
The problem could also be dirty contacts inside the gauge, or a fine broken
internal wire at the gauge's meter movement. You have nothing to lose by
removing the gauge, opening it, and giving it an internal inspection with
the goal to repair the break inside.
(4) Anyway, with power turned off again, leave the wire off Terminal T.
(5) Now go to the tank. Pull the GB wire from the sender's hot terminal.
Then (6) check the resistance of the sender from its hot terminal (now
electrically disconnected from wire GB) to ground. You should get a
resistance reading there. You'll have to check the archives, but I think it
was around 35-ohms (don't quote me). It depends on the position of the
float.
(7) Pull the sender, and attach your ohmmeter to it, with one ohmmeter lead
on the chassis and one at the sender's hot terminal. (8) Move the sender
float to see if the resistance varies smoothly. If not, then (9) clean any
varnishy gunk off the sender coil.
Again, be sure battery power is OFF whenever making ohmmeter resistance
checks. If not, you could damage your ohmmeter.
Now that the GB wire in the harness is disconnected at both gauge and
sender, (10) check resistance of the wire harness from either end or both to
ground (chassis). It should read infinite on your ohmmeter. If it reads
zero, very low, or any resistance at all, there's a short or partial short
in the harness to the chassis.
If the gauge is pegged left, you might have either some electrical leakage
or even a complete short on the GB wire. There's also a connector in that
line, and there could be fraying and electrical leakage there. The above
test will reveal that, as it's being made on an isolated wire.
(11) If the sender proves reasonably good, put the GB wire back on the
sender. Now (12) check the GB wiring at terminal T of the gauge. To do this,
with GB back on the sender, but still disconnected from the gauge, see if
you get a varying resistance reading from the wire (at T end) to ground
(with power off, just as you did at the sender). You'll need an assistant to
watch the ohmmeter, or move the float.
If you do get about the same varying reading as you got at the sender
itself, then you can conclude that the wiring is okay. That is, if the wire
shows the same variation at the end that goes to terminal T as it did at the
sender, then the problem is inside the gauge.
Be methodical. Always be sure your ohmmeter is working by touching its leads
together before making resistance checks. The meter should always read zero
for that pre-test ohmmeter test. An ohmmeter has a dry cell or some
batteries inside, and these must be up to snuff for it to read resistance
properly.
So, don't get caught trying to make resistance checks with an inoperative
ohmmeter. Touch the ohmmeter leads together momentarily to see if the
ohmmeter is working. With the leads apart, it should read infinity (look for
the little infinity symbol on the meter). When the leads are touched
together, the instrument should read zero ohms. This has nothing at all to
do with voltage tests using the same leads and meter.
Hope that helps.
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
Amateur Radio AI2Q
http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
.-.-.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Keith Pennell
Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2004 5:39 PM
To: healey list
Subject: Another fuel gauge Q
Listers,
Patches, the BN7, has been on the road now for almost 3 years after a frame
up
resto. Everything has worked perfectly . . . well almost. About 4 months
ago
the fuel gauge would occasionally just peg left. Later it would come back
to
life. About 1 month ago it went left and has been there since. On my 30
minute drive today it did not come back to life.
I applied an extra ground to the sending unit and no reading. I checked for
voltage at the sending unit and none. I checked for voltage on the T
terminal
of the gauge and none. I checked for voltage on the B terminal of the gauge
and got voltage.
Why is my gauge not working and what is necessary to fix it?
Somewhat electrically challenged
Keith Pennell
From James B Dalglish <leaker at exit109.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Thu, 05 Feb 2004 20:55:16 -0500
Subject: NHC 1951 Jag literature
Advise on how I get in touch with the Jag net.
Thanks in advance
Jim D
60BT7
From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2004 20:16:54 -0600
Subject: Re: NHC 1951 Jag literature
Try www.jag-lovers.org and I bet you will find what you need.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "James B Dalglish" <leaker@exit109.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 05, 2004 7:55 PM
Subject: NHC 1951 Jag literature
> Listers;
>
> Advise on how I get in touch with the Jag net.
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Jim D
> 60BT7
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Thu, 05 Feb 2004 18:19:38 -0800
Subject: Dick Brill
From John Luttenberger <johnl at golden.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Thu, 05 Feb 2004 21:27:37 -0500
Subject: Re: NHC 1951 Jag literature
James B Dalglish wrote:
>Listers;
>
>Advise on how I get in touch with the Jag net.
>
>Thanks in advance
>
>Jim D
>60BT7
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Thu, 05 Feb 2004 20:27:01 -0700
Subject: Re: Dick Brill
http://www.team.net/html_arc/healeys/200307/msg00161.html
Dave RussellTerry Blubaugh wrote:
> Does anyone know if Dick Brill is still lurking on the list??
from Pennsylvania. He looked really happy and it was a beautiful night for
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2004 23:01:28 EST
Subject: Healey sighting in Miami
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans (not here)
From Dave Carpenter <d.carpenter7 at verizon.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Thu, 05 Feb 2004 23:11:50 -0500
Subject: Re: New England wintertime jaunt
Dave (in Pittsburgh too)
tom felts wrote:
>What are you guys trying to do to me-------------make me crazy with envy???
>I'd have to go through mounds of ice and snow and pounds of salt just to
>get it on the salt-laden roads. When will I wise up and get the h--l out
>of Pittsburgh for the winter?
>
>Tom
From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2004 22:33:32 -0600
Subject: Hybrid Brake Hose Question
Thanks in advance,
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
From "Ron Yates" <dipstickdigest at mohaveaz.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2004 22:36:22 -0700
Subject: Schumacher in Austin Healey
----- Original Message -----
From: <OldHealeys@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 05, 2004 11:13 AM
Subject: Schumacher in Austin Healey
> The Feb 2004 issue of "F1" magazine has a photo of M. Schumacher in an
> Austin-Healey on page 144. Are there any people on this list that have
photos of
> the F1 drivers riding in Healeys? Australia and Canada have both used
Healeys
> as rides before the start of F1 races.
>
> Bill Emerson
> Author "The Healey Book"
> Who also loves F1 racing
From "Richard Young" <rahhy at earthlink.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2004 22:30:51 -0800
Subject: Re: Schumacher in Austin Healey
We found Montreal to be very enjoyable with everyone really getting involved
in race week.
Rich Young
'60 BT7
From John May <jdmay at attglobal.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Fri, 06 Feb 2004 02:09:09 -0500
Subject: Re: Schumacher in Austin Healey
>The Feb 2004 issue of "F1" magazine has a photo of M. Schumacher in an
>Austin-Healey on page 144. Are there any people on this list that have photos
>of
>the F1 drivers riding in Healeys? Australia and Canada have both used Healeys
>as rides before the start of F1 races.
>
>Bill Emerson
>Author "The Healey Book"
>Who also loves F1 racing
From John May <jdmay at attglobal.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Fri, 06 Feb 2004 02:16:35 -0500
Subject: Re: Schumacher in Austin Healey
OldHealeys@aol.com wrote:
>The Feb 2004 issue of "F1" magazine has a photo of M. Schumacher in an
>Austin-Healey on page 144. Are there any people on this list that have photos
>of
>the F1 drivers riding in Healeys? Australia and Canada have both used Healeys
>as rides before the start of F1 races.
>
>Bill Emerson
>Author "The Healey Book"
>Who also loves F1 racing
From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2004 07:07:30 -0700
Subject: Re: Lucas Headlight Rims
. If someone knows where I can pick up a good pair, I will
> > be willing to pay market price for them.
> >
> > Best Regards,
> >
> > Olin Brimberry
> > Raleigh, NC
> > 62 BT7
From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2004 07:11:27 -0700
Subject: Re: Dick Brill
Frogeye@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'62 BT7 MK II, '54 BN1, '62 Fiat 1600S
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 05, 2004 7:19 PM
Subject: Dick Brill
From "Joseph Bachman III" <josephbachman at hotmail.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Fri, 06 Feb 2004 14:25:27 +0000
Subject: Looking for purchase advice
I am primarily looking for a bn2, as I want to have the car as a Sunday
driver. I am looking for a previously restored car that is in great
condition, but I am not really looking for a show car. My main intent is to
take summer motoring weekends with the car, so drivability/reliability in
addition to beauty is important to me.
Some mods I have heard of are swapping out the rear diff to take some revs
off the engine, converting over to a negative ground electrical system, etc.
These sound sensical to me to increase the life and drivability of the car,
but I welcome any comments as to what problems this and other changes may
cause.
I look forward to hearing back from you all, and offer my thanks in advance.
Jay Bachman
_________________________________________________________________
Find great local high-speed Internet access value at the MSN High-Speed
Marketplace. http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200360ave/direct/01/
From "Ronald Somers" <arjayarjay at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2004 06:46:58 -0800
Subject: Dick Brill
From "Vink, Graham" <vinkg at fleishman.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2004 09:11:03 -0600
Subject: RE: 100S - it's baack
I frequently send such questions to the seller about suspicious E-Bay
cars in which I might be interested, or if I know something about the
model ... partly just to let sellers know that there are people out
there on E-Bay who are paying attention.
I especially enjoy sending e-mails to dealers asking how they knew the
car they are selling was previously owned by "an elderly lady driver,"
and why EVERY car that they have currently listed also was owned by "an
elderly lady driver."
Regrettably, I rarely receive a response.
And if I'm feeling REALLY out of sorts (ie: wet, icy and salty roads -
no roadster-driving possibilities seen on the horizon) I will sometimes
send a copy of my questions to the current high bidder.
BTW, I love E-Bay, and have purchased four cars on it ... all with good
results.
-Graham
-----Original Message-----
From: 62BT7 [mailto:62BT7@prodigy.net]
Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2004 10:14 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: 100S
IT'S BAAAAACK !!!!!!!
E-BAY ITEM 2458494524
Kirk Kvam
From David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Fri, 06 Feb 2004 08:14:57 -0800
Subject: Re: Hybrid Brake Hose Question
> I have 54 BN1 with the early style disc brakes from a 3000, I want to
> replace my brake front brake hoses (long overdue, lucky to be alive, etc.)
> There are different part numbers for the BN1 front brake hose and the early
> 3000 hose, any idea which I need, or how to tell which I need, or what the
> difference is? Are the threads and unions different?, or the hose length?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Greg Lemon
> 54 BN1
You will need the early 6 cylinder brake hoses.
--
--
David Nock
NEW E-mail Addresses!!!
David Nock, Technical Questions healeydoc@sbcglobal.net
Sheila Nock-Huggins, Parts Questions britishcardoc@sbcglobal.net
British Car Specialists 2060 N. Wilson Way Stockton CA 95205
Phone 209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030
http://www.britishcarspecialists.com
From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2004 08:39:29 -0800
Subject: its baaaaack
From Jay Fishbein <type79 at ix.netcom.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Fri, 06 Feb 2004 11:47:57 -0500
Subject: Re: 100S - it's baack
But seriously. I did just that. In a nutshell, he stated this car is an
original S, but couldn't document it.
Sounds like someone I would feel comfortable buying from.
jay fishbein
wallingford, ct
http://home.ix.netcom.com/~type79/ <http://home.ix.netcom.com/%7Etype79/>
Vink, Graham wrote:
>why doesn't someone send him a
>polite e-mail, ask him some to-the-point questions, and share his
>response?
>
<http://home.ix.netcom.com/%7Etype79/>
From "Tim Davis" <tld6008 at mchsi.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2004 11:03:18 -0600
Subject: Re: Question about heads
Tim Davis BN7
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
Cc: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, February 02, 2004 1:59 AM
Subject: Re: Question about heads
> Hi Ron,
> I'll try;
>
> 1. I don't know about the water holes. I think that it is a normal
> situation. There is one small hole in the block that mates with a
> similar hole in the head for oil feed to the rocker arms.
>
> 2. So called "hot tanking", a hot caustic bath is the standard way of
> cleaning the block. It will remove rust & everything else that is not
> iron. any aluminum & the cam bearings will be dissolved. Best to remove
> these first to assure complete cleaning of the oil passages. For the
> same reason, remove all of the oilway plugs, core plugs, & anything else
> that you can remove. Same with the head.
>
> 3. The small diamond numbers were stamped at the factory to permit the
> best selective fit of the pistons to the bores. This would mean that you
> still have the original pistons.
>
> Dave Russell
> BN2
>
>
> Ron Fine wrote:
> > I just finished pulling my BN7 engine apart this weekend. Great fun,
> > but now I have some questions about what I see on the head and block.
> > 1. The head and head gasket has five holes on the manifold side about
> > the size of a quarter that are open to the water way but the block has
> > no holes opposite these in the head. Is that normal? One the block
> > there is one small hole that looks like it was drilled where there was
> > no hole but just in one of the five places.
> > 2. The block and head are very clogged up with a hard deposits in the
> > water ways. They can be scrapped out of the accessible areas but what
> > about the inaccessible areas. What is normally done to clean out the
> > cooling areas of the head and block?
> >
> > 3. The pistons each have a small diamond with a "2" inside and the
> > same is stamped in the block beside each cylinder. Does that indicate
> > that these pistons are the original flat top pistons or just that they
> > are the "standard size"? Were the marks on the top of the block put
> > there by the factory or by someone who later rebuilt the engine?
> > Just curious.
> > Ron
> > 61BN7
From John Peak <redbn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2004 09:24:58 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Healey sighting in Miami
Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
Tonight I saw a pretty blue over white BJ8 tooling out The Grove headed up
South Bayshore Drive--the owner told me he had just brought it down to Miami
from Pennsylvania. He looked really happy and it was a beautiful night for
it--about 75 degrees and clear. I miss my cars.....
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans (not here)
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Finance: Get your refund fast by filing online
From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2004 13:32:04 -0500
Subject: Re: Looking for purchase advice
Joe. Anywhere below the wind screen. 8>)
Seriously, the first place to look is at the out riggers and floor pans. Then
check the floor of the boot. If those are passable the chances are reasonable
good that the car is OK. Good luck and let us know what you buy.Cheers, JL
James Lea
Rockport Maine
1962 BT7 II
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2004 15:18:32 EST
Subject: Re: Healey sighting in Miami
> Hey Michael----Did he say where in Pa?
>
> Tom
>
tom--
He said that he just had it shipped down from PA.&nbsp; From the huge grin
on
his face and where he was driving (doing the cruise thru the flashy part of
the Grove) I got the impression or maybe just jumped to the conclusion that he
was new to the car and had purchased it in PA.&nbsp; Whatever, I sure would
have been riding in it than driving my Explorer....
Best--Michael
From "Malaney, David W" <DavidWMalaney at eaton.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2004 16:08:51 -0500
Subject: Dash Pad Question
***********************************
Dave M.
61 BN7
From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2004 16:24:42 -0600
Subject: Running with the choke out
Patton
-------------------------------------
Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
1957 Austin-Healey BN4
Website http://www.austin-healeys.com/
For Sale - 1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert
From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2004 18:54:12 -0500
Subject: Re: Dash Pad Question
----- Original Message -----
From: "Malaney, David W" <DavidWMalaney@eaton.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 06, 2004 4:08 PM
Subject: Dash Pad Question
> It's Friday - so a dumb rookie question: how is the dash pad supposed to
be
> attached to the cowl? Glue? Fasteners from up under the dash? My BN7
came
> with the pad in nice cosmetic shape, but with a sheet metal screw w/washer
> holding down each end. I assume this is not correct(?) I removed the
screws,
> and the pad came off very easily - no other fasteners. Thanks for any
info.
>
> ***********************************
> Dave M.
> 61 BN7
From "nick klein" <klein.ns at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2004 16:43:51 -0800
Subject: Looking for source
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2004 16:55:15 -0800
Subject: Re: Running with the choke out
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 06, 2004 2:24 PM
Subject: Running with the choke out
> I noticed that my car runs smoother with the choke out after it is warmed
> up. I am not going to run it that way but was curious if that would point
> to the source of my sputtering at speed problem. Does that say the car is
> running lean?
>
> Patton
>
> -------------------------------------
> Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
> 1957 Austin-Healey BN4
> Website http://www.austin-healeys.com/
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Fri, 06 Feb 2004 20:03:15 -0700
Subject: Re: Running with the choke out
Dave Russell
Patton Dickson wrote:
> I noticed that my car runs smoother with the choke out after it is warmed
> up. I am not going to run it that way but was curious if that would point
> to the source of my sputtering at speed problem. Does that say the car is
> running lean?
>
> Patton
From "Eckert, Josef" <Josef.Eckert at t-mobile.de>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2004 11:24:21 +0100
Subject: test
From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2004 07:29:07 -0700
Subject: choke question
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2004 10:29:26 EST
Subject: MGA Question
I suggested a Sawzall and that was dismissed. However with the immense amount
of arcane British Car Trivia, "broken that before" experiences that we all
share I'm sure someone will have a better answer.
just wondering........
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "James Albeck" <mybjate@earthlink.net>; "Jim LeBlanc"
Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2004 07:36:55 -0800
Subject: Re: choke question
Why would old SUs run rich? I would think worn throttle shafts,
especially, would make them run lean.
What else wears, except the needle and jet, if not properly centered
(but they be replaced)? I don't believe any Healeys use the SUs
with the spring-loaded needle, which I understand do tend to wear
inordinately.
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 07, 2004 6:29 AM
Subject: choke question
> Patton,
> While it is likely that you do have a lean run situation, having said that
> and knowing that most old SU's tend to run rich...I just want to point out
> that adding fuel will often mask the true underlying problem...
> It is important to check compression and the color of the spark plugs or
> have the car tested at the tail pipe for hydrocarbon levels at idle and at
> "high" speed...
> Dave
> Frogeye@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> '62 BT7 MK II, '54 BN1, '62 Fiat 1600S
> http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.html
From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2004 10:07:42 -0600
Subject: MGA Question
> I have a friend who owns a MGA. The cable release for the trunk has
broken.
> Anyone know how you get the trunk open with a broken cable?
>
> I suggested a Sawzall and that was dismissed. However with the immense
amount
> of arcane British Car Trivia, "broken that before" experiences that we all
> share I'm sure someone will have a better answer.
>
> just wondering........
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Werner
> Louisville, KY
From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2004 11:18:57 -0500
Subject: Re: MGA Question
Does it still have the carpet-like piece closing the hole between the trunk
and cockpit (where the spare protrudes), and is the spare there and bolted
down?
--
John Miller
>From a certain point onward there is no longer any turning back.
That is the point that must be reached.
-F. Kafka
From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Joseph Bachman III" <josephbachman@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2004 10:19:12 -0600
Subject: Looking for purchase advice
> Hi all - My name is Jay Bachman, and I am a recent addition to this Healey
> list. I joined hoping to gain some insights while I have been hunting down
a
> 100-4 to purchase. I have identified a few vehicles that I am getting
ready
> to look at, and have read a fair amount on the 100, but I am hoping you
> owners can steer me in the right direction as to things to look for on the
> car when I go to see it. I am looking for info as to "this is a chronic
rust
> spot" or "this is a known weak link." I am looking to your years of owners
> knowledge to help me make and informed decision.
>
> I am primarily looking for a bn2, as I want to have the car as a Sunday
> driver. I am looking for a previously restored car that is in great
> condition, but I am not really looking for a show car. My main intent is
to
> take summer motoring weekends with the car, so drivability/reliability in
> addition to beauty is important to me.
>
> Some mods I have heard of are swapping out the rear diff to take some revs
> off the engine, converting over to a negative ground electrical system,
etc.
> These sound sensical to me to increase the life and drivability of the
car,
> but I welcome any comments as to what problems this and other changes may
> cause.
>
> I look forward to hearing back from you all, and offer my thanks in
advance.
>
> Jay Bachman
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Find great local high-speed Internet access value at the MSN High-Speed
> Marketplace. http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200360ave/direct/01/
From RAWDAWGS at aol.com
From: "Joseph Bachman III" <josephbachman@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2004 12:26:08 EST
Subject: Closure
From Ron Fine <RonFineEsq at earthlink.net>
From: "Joseph Bachman III" <josephbachman@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 07 Feb 2004 10:17:12 -0800
Subject: Removing Oil Dip Stick tube
From Dave Carpenter <d.carpenter7 at verizon.net>
From: "Joseph Bachman III" <josephbachman@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 07 Feb 2004 13:21:30 -0500
Subject: Re: choke question
Dave
From "Scott Willis" <ahpowered at hotmail.com>
From: "Joseph Bachman III" <josephbachman@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2004 12:57:22 -0600
Subject: Re: MGA Question
If you push the tire out of the way you may still have trouble getting to
the latch to open it. When I bought my MGA the car had a hole in the floor
under the latch where this had obviously happened before.
If you get any good solutions please let me know.
Good luck.
Scott
60 Mashed BN7
59 MGA
73 Bonnie
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 07, 2004 10:18 AM
Subject: Re: MGA Question
> On Saturday, February 07, 2004 10:29 am, Jwhlyadv@aol.com wrote:
> > I have a friend who owns a MGA. The cable release for the trunk has
broken.
> > Anyone know how you get the trunk open with a broken cable?
>
> Does it still have the carpet-like piece closing the hole between the
trunk
> and cockpit (where the spare protrudes), and is the spare there and bolted
> down?
>
> --
> John Miller
>
> From a certain point onward there is no longer any turning back.
> That is the point that must be reached.
> -F. Kafka
From "Eckert, Josef" <Josef.Eckert at t-mobile.de>
From: "Joseph Bachman III" <josephbachman@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2004 21:26:16 +0100
Subject: Re: Schumacher in Austin Healey
Josef Eckert
Germany
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: "Joseph Bachman III" <josephbachman@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 07 Feb 2004 12:26:04 -0800
Subject: Heater Fan Motor or Burshes Needed
I cannot find brushes available at parts sources I use. Does any know
of a source for these brushes?
Otherwise I'm stuck replacing the heater fan motor. So the question then
becomes, does anyone have a heater fan motor they can part with?
Let me know of any help you might offer.
Thanks in advance.
Brian N.
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "Joseph Bachman III" <josephbachman@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2004 08:15:55 +1100
Subject: Re: Schumacher in Austin Healey
Go to http://babelfish.altavista.com/
Put Josefs URL into the "Translate a Web page" box, select German to
English, and you'll get a reasonable approximation.
Enjoy!
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eckert, Josef" <Josef.Eckert@t-mobile.de>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 08, 2004 7:26 AM
Subject: Re: Schumacher in Austin Healey
> Hello Bill,
> You will find more pictures on the site of the German Austin Healey Club:
"www.ahcg.de"
> On the site you will find a button (left hand) "Healey Gallery". Click on
that. When this page opens you see the picture of Jeremy Welshs accident and
the picture with Michael Schumacher. Ignore that.
> You find another button (left hand) "Healey Formel 1". Click on that. You
will get several pictures with Healeys and Formula 1 drivers. If you click
on the pictures you will get them in a larger format. The pictures were done
at the drivers parade of the Canadian GP last year.
>
> Josef Eckert
> Germany
From "Eckert, Josef" <Josef.Eckert at t-mobile.de>
From: "Joseph Bachman III" <josephbachman@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2004 22:27:48 +0100
Subject: AW: Schumacher in Austin Healey
If anyone else who also like to read the words, but can't speak German, try
this.
Go to http://babelfish.altavista.com/
Put Josefs URL into the "Translate a Web page" box, select German to
English, and you'll get a reasonable approximation.
Enjoy!
Chris
From RAWDAWGS at aol.com
From: "Joseph Bachman III" <josephbachman@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2004 18:38:05 EST
Subject: Closure-My bad
Scott McPherson
BN4L
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: "Joseph Bachman III" <josephbachman@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 07 Feb 2004 19:03:52 -0800
Subject: THANK MILLIONS For the heater motor help
I contacted a list member for what I need.
You all are great!
Current project underway:
Rear brakes are off and hubs are getting new seals and gaskets.
New brake cyls and shoes going on too.
This morning we took a wonderful drive up the coast and had breakfast at
Whale City Cafe in Davenport. Beautiful weather. Couldn't resist
getting to the projects when we got home. Hope the weather stays nice
the next few days, as the car is up on jacks in the driveway, not the
garage!
Brian N.
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: "Joseph Bachman III" <josephbachman@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 07 Feb 2004 19:06:21 -0800
Subject: Re: Closure-My bad
Brian N
From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Joseph Bachman III" <josephbachman@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2004 11:51:31 -0500
Subject: Request assistance to inspect car
Someone in the UK has just bought a BJ8 that is currently located in
Manorville, NY (on Long Island). He is looking for someone who might be
willing to go take a look at the car's condition before he has it shipped.
If anyone would like to volunteer, you can reach the new owner at
andrew@mawson.org.uk
Thanks!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: "Joseph Bachman III" <josephbachman@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 08 Feb 2004 10:25:55 -0800
Subject: In Search of Heater Box Bottom Panel and Boot Lid Handle w/lock
Also, the boot lid handle/lock has the locking pin ground off, so even
though the key turns, the pin does not rise into the fixed part to lock
the handle. I don't need one that has a key, necessarily. My locksmith
can take care of that part. I just need one with the bolt pin in tact.
In the unlocked position, the pin should not be recessed into the
cylinder, but about flush with the surface.
Can anyone help me out with these parts?
Many thanks in advance.
Brian N.
From michael e gougeon <kaynmike.bham at juno.com>
From: "Joseph Bachman III" <josephbachman@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2004 13:23:29 -0800
Subject: re: Purchase advice 100 (BN2)
From BluegrassClub at aol.com
From: "Joseph Bachman III" <josephbachman@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2004 21:40:37 EST
Subject: Springthing 2004
This year our successful annual event moves to another great location,
Danville, Kentucky. Our host hotel will be the Holiday Inn Express with a
special
room rate of only $59 per night.
Our always excellent Hospitality Suite, Inventive Awards, hilarious Funkhana
are all on the weekend's agenda.
Saturday enter the Popularity Car Show featuring all your favorite Healeys.
Followed by a Rally amid the historic and always interesting roads of Central
Kentucky. Our backroads offer beautiful horse farms, fieldstone fences,
meandering creeks and rolling fields of tobacco and cattle.
Saturday evening enjoy a fine Awards Banquet and special Auction. Trophies
for the winners and a few surprises are always on the agenda. After dinner our
Auctioneer will entertain you while pitching his fine Healeywares
It's about seeing the cars, talking to their owners, meeting fellow
enthusiasts, and enjoying the friendships of new and old friends who share your
passion
for our favorite Marque.
Please join us!
Visit the Springthing web site at
www.springthing.info
for a Registration Form.
Bluegrass Austin Healey Club
www.springthing.info
www.bluegrassclub.com
information@bluegrassclub.com
From john sawyer <jrsawyer2002 at yahoo.com>
From: "Joseph Bachman III" <josephbachman@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2004 18:54:36 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Brake servo / tach ?
I changed to negative ground and put in petronix
ignition
converted the tach to negative ground and it worked
breifly but no more. I recall seeing a message about
looping the ignition wire somehow?
__________________________________
Yahoo! Finance: Get your refund fast by filing online.
http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html
From ECP4UW at aol.com
From: "Joseph Bachman III" <josephbachman@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2004 22:01:24 EST
Subject: Top bow space dimenisions
From "Tim Newton" <timnewton at menziesgroup.com.au>
From: "Joseph Bachman III" <josephbachman@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2004 15:05:35 +1100
Subject: engine temp and fuel pump 100/6
I took my BN4 (July 58) for a run yesterday in 35 degree Celsius temp
(Australian summers can be long and hot) and hit the boiling point on the
water temp gauge. 1 hour drive, 50 mph, no load on slightly hilly sealed
roads. The engine is tuned, the radiator flushed and has anti boil additive
and the thermostat appears OK. The radiator fan has 4 blades, and the fan belt
could be replaced but appears to not be slipping. I recall reading that an
original factory option included a 6 blade fan offered for hot climate
exports, and I have seen 6 blade plastic fans at the local Healey parts shop.
Any evidence that the extra two blades will improve air cooling. I do not want
to go down the road of having electric thermostat fans fitted in front of the
radiator, although I have seen some sixes modified this way.
Is the cleaning of the points in the petrol pump a regular service maintenance
task, and if so is this difficult? I have noticed that the pump occasionally
clicks at a very fast rate whilst driving, a lot faster than when the car
ignition is switched on and the carb float bowls are filling
If the recommendation is to only service the filter, what is the best way of
accessing the pump? Under the rear occasional seat?
Any assistance or comments welcome, thanks
Tim Newton
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Joseph Bachman III" <josephbachman@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2004 22:52:45 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: engine temp and fuel pump 100/6
> I took my BN4 (July 58) for a run yesterday in 35
> degree Celsius temp
> (Australian summers can be long and hot) and hit the
> boiling point on the
> water temp gauge. 1 hour drive, 50 mph, no load on
> slightly hilly sealed
> roads.
Your car should not boil over whilst driving under
these conditions (although it may boil over if you
have filled the radiator tank too high). Run the car
with about 1" of air space from the top of the
radiator tank - if it still boils over then chances
are you have a 195 F (91C) thermostat. You should
switch to 180 F (82C) or 165 F (74C) (I'd use 165 F in
the summer with city driving in OZ). Also be sure to
run with about a 30% antifreeze mix - if you have too
much antifreeze in your system it will be harder to
keep cool in hot weather. 30% will keep your block
from freezing in any weather conditions you will get
down under, except maybe McMurdo Station in Antartica.
If that doesn't fix your problem, it may be your
engine block is crudded up with deposits and rust and
should be flushed out forcibly.
A multiblade fan will help at low speeds, but at
speeds over 40 mph it should not make a difference.
>
> Is the cleaning of the points in the petrol pump a
> regular service maintenance
> task, and if so is this difficult? I have noticed
> that the pump occasionally
> clicks at a very fast rate whilst driving, a lot
> faster than when the car
> ignition is switched on and the carb float bowls are
> filling
> If the recommendation is to only service the filter,
> what is the best way of
> accessing the pump? Under the rear occasional seat?
>
> Any assistance or comments welcome, thanks
If your fuel pump is pumping very fast while driving,
it may indicate that you have a malfunctioning check
valve in your pump (it may simply have some crud or
dirt holding the check valve open). Another cause may
be that your float cut off valves are not working - an
indication of this would be gas puddles under your car
upon start up & bad gas mileage.
Hope that helps,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Joseph Bachman III" <josephbachman@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2004 22:59:18 -0800 (PST)
Subject: re. THANK MILLIONS For the heater motor help
Date: Sat, 07 Feb 2004 19:03:52 -0800
From: Brian N <brian@beachcitygas.com>
Subject: THANK MILLIONS For the heater motor help
Thanks for all the instant help on the heater motor
brush issue.
I contacted a list member for what I need.
You all are great!
__________________________________
Yahoo! Finance: Get your refund fast by filing online.
http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html
From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
From: "Joseph Bachman III" <josephbachman@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2004 08:56:46 -0500
Subject: Schumacher in Austin Healey
...and the man driving is none other than John Healey, who was
invited, with his wife Joy, by our club in 2002 to drive in the
Canadian Grand Prix parade. A club member graciously provided his
car. A great weekend that was!
Alain Giguhre
Quibec Austin-Healey club
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sasktel.net>
From: "Joseph Bachman III" <josephbachman@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 09 Feb 2004 10:20:31 -0600
Subject: Non Healey - Bedford van-brake part
Need a wee bit of help, a friend just called looking for a
source for some brake parts for a Bedford van his is
repairing. He needs the piston rubbers 7/8" OD for
brake cylinders, he says they are called donut rubbers
and have a 1/2" ID hole. Any suggestions.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
www.vintage-sportscar-touring.ca
From daniel white <dwhite4949 at earthlink.net>
From: "Joseph Bachman III" <josephbachman@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 09 Feb 2004 11:25:24 -0500
Subject: Fender bead dent removal
From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Joseph Bachman III" <josephbachman@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 08:04:38 +1300
Subject: Test
From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: "Joseph Bachman III" <josephbachman@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2004 12:52:04 -0800
Subject: Fw: 100S = GONE AGAIN ??????
Kirk Kvam
----- Original Message -----
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2004 7:14 PM
Subject: 100S
> IT'S BAAAAACK !!!!!!!
>
> E-BAY ITEM 2458494524
>
> Kirk Kvam
From Jay Fishbein <type79 at ix.netcom.com>
From: "Joseph Bachman III" <josephbachman@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 09 Feb 2004 16:23:45 -0500
Subject: Re: Fw: 100S = GONE AGAIN ??????
I think he would make out better if he represented the car for what it
is, a replica, and moved on.
jay fishbein
wallingford, ct
http://home.ix.netcom.com/~type79/ <http://home.ix.netcom.com/%7Etype79/>
62BT7 wrote:
>IT'S GONE AGAIN !!!!!!!!!!! ????????
From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Joseph Bachman III" <josephbachman@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 09 Feb 2004 17:26:59 -0500
Subject: Re: Fw: 100S = GONE AGAIN ??????
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jay Fishbein" <type79@ix.netcom.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, February 09, 2004 4:23 PM
Subject: Re: Fw: 100S = GONE AGAIN ??????
| Because his account's been suspended again. And it doesn't take alot of
| imagination to figure out why.
|
| I think he would make out better if he represented the car for what it
| is, a replica, and moved on.
|
| jay fishbein
| wallingford, ct
| http://home.ix.netcom.com/~type79/ <http://home.ix.netcom.com/%7Etype79/>
|
| 62BT7 wrote:
|
| >IT'S GONE AGAIN !!!!!!!!!!! ????????
|
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: "Joseph Bachman III" <josephbachman@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 09 Feb 2004 14:44:32 -0800
Subject: What about those plugs?
Also, the side cover gasket seems to leak also. Can I remove that cover
for gasket repair and reinstall without loosing my sanity? I just
picture little springs, balls, and other parts flinging across the
garage floor when I remove these pieces.
How safe is this?
Brian N.
BT7 1960
1961 OD transmission
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: "Joseph Bachman III" <josephbachman@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 10:22:04 +1100
Subject: RE: engine temp and fuel pump 100/6
I was out in the same 35+ degree heat on both Saturday and Sunday but
managed to avoid the thunder and tempest that hit Sunday arvo here in
Sydney.
I used to have trouble with the car running up to boiling and finding it
very difficult to get to stay below but I think I have now resolved it.
Sometimes it would get so hot that it would blow a welsh plug.
Before I go into what I did I should say that the BN3 is slightly
different than the standard six-cylinder but the concepts are the same.
I found that with a combination of many factors I managed to get the
engine to run at its correct temperature.
The radiator in my car is the same as fitted to the early Riley engined
Healeys but the car was never built with draught deflectors. These are
very important as you must get the maximum amount of air to travel
through the radiator and not around it. I knew the engine was clean and
the radiator was recored.
Next came the thermostat. So I contact the manufacturer in Melbourne
(IPC?) and gave the OD dimensions for the six-cylinder engine and asked
for one that had the largest ID and far bigger than standard. It is set
for 160 degrees F. It turned out to be as fitted to a Ford Falcon taxi
and works well. I also changed the radiator cap to one with a of 4lb as
I would rather coolant coming from the overflow pipe than popping
another welsh plug.
Finally I fitted a manually operated electric fan. In the BN3 there is
no X brace in front of the radiator so it was a simple matter of
fitting. It is also an older Lucas type that does not have a large
central motor and I am sure that the motor was also used as a wiper
motor in some applications. On really hot days like last weekend I keep
the fan running continuously, especially when I stop at the hardware
shop or the like.
I thought about fitting an overflow tank but decided against it. I did
go as far as finding a tank from an Austin 1800 that doesn't look amiss
under the bonnet.
About the SU fuel pump I would suggest that you give Bill Bressington of
SU Midel here in Sydney and discuss it with him. Very helpful bloke -
mention my name.
Please drop me a note off list if you wish to discuss it further.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Newton [mailto:timnewton@menziesgroup.com.au]
Sent: Monday, 9 February 2004 3:06 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: engine temp and fuel pump 100/6
Hi to All
I would appreciate some advice on reducing engine over heat, and on
maintenance of the fuel pump.
I took my BN4 (July 58) for a run yesterday in 35 degree Celsius temp
(Australian summers can be long and hot) and hit the boiling point on
the water temp gauge. 1 hour drive, 50 mph, no load on slightly hilly
sealed roads. The engine is tuned, the radiator flushed and has anti
boil additive and the thermostat appears OK. The radiator fan has 4
blades, and the fan belt could be replaced but appears to not be
slipping. I recall reading that an original factory option included a 6
blade fan offered for hot climate exports, and I have seen 6 blade
plastic fans at the local Healey parts shop. Any evidence that the extra
two blades will improve air cooling. I do not want to go down the road
of having electric thermostat fans fitted in front of the radiator,
although I have seen some sixes modified this way.
Is the cleaning of the points in the petrol pump a regular service
maintenance task, and if so is this difficult? I have noticed that the
pump occasionally clicks at a very fast rate whilst driving, a lot
faster than when the car ignition is switched on and the carb float
bowls are filling If the recommendation is to only service the filter,
what is the best way of accessing the pump? Under the rear occasional
seat?
Any assistance or comments welcome, thanks
Tim Newton
**********************************************************************
This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain
privileged information or confidential information or both. If you
are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender.
**********************************************************************
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Joseph Bachman III" <josephbachman@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 09 Feb 2004 16:31:28 -0800
Subject: Re: Fender bead dent removal
I'm watching this enquiry with interest - I have a couple of original rear
beads that sure could use a bit of help!
I had pretty much come to the conclusion that trying to repair fender beads
as you describe is probably not worth it, depending on the extent of the
damage, because the replacements are not all that expensive and seem to be
of good quality. Good idea, though - would seem to need a correctly sized
ball welded onto a thin steel rod (some kind of a dentist tool comes to
mind, suitably modified).
Wonder if any of the others have attempted this?
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BT7 tri-carb
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "daniel white" <dwhite4949@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, February 09, 2004 8:25 AM
Subject: Fender bead dent removal
My fender bead has a few dents and I hope the collective wisdom of the
list can tell me how to remove the dents (I didn't see anything in the
archive re this). I'm thinking I could drill a hole in a block of
hardwood to match the outside shape of the bead then cut the block
lengthwise exposing half the hole to make a trough that the bead could
sit in. Then open the bead at the bottom, lay it in the trough and try
to press out the dent with some type of tool, then try to reclose the
bead and have it come out round to match the rest... and try to not make
it look worse than before I started. Any thoughts would be appreciated,
otherwise I'll look for a good source and get out the charge card.
Thanks in advance.
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
From: "Joseph Bachman III" <josephbachman@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2004 21:02:19 -0500
Subject: Bj8 mirror
Thanks,
Carroll Phillips
From "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "Joseph Bachman III" <josephbachman@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2004 09:32:15 -0500
Subject: Re: 100S = GONE AGAIN ??????
From "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "Joseph Bachman III" <josephbachman@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2004 09:56:46 -0500
Subject: DW oil seal kit
From R5SPEED at aol.com
From: "Joseph Bachman III" <josephbachman@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2004 23:31:54 EST
Subject: Re: DW oil seal kit
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: "Joseph Bachman III" <josephbachman@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 00:08:34 -0500
Subject: Too funny for words - nonHealey
Hope you find this as side-splitting as I did.
Keith Pennell
Two elderly ladies are walking through a zoo. They come across the gorillas.
After a while they notice the male gorilla has a massive erection. This
fascinates the ladies. Finally, one of the women just can't bear it any longer
and she reaches into the cage to touch it.
Suddenly, the gorilla grabs her, drags her into the cage and proceeds to have
his way with her for six hours nonstop. When he's done, the gorilla throws the
woman back out of the cage. An ambulance is called and the woman is taken away
to the hospital.
A few days later her friend visits her and asks, "Are you hurt?"
"Am I hurt???" she answers. "Am I hurt??? What kind of question is that???
Wouldn't you be???...He hasn't called,... he hasn't written . . . NOTHING !!"
From "Len and/or Marge" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: "Joseph Bachman III" <josephbachman@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2004 23:37:04 -0800
Subject: RE: Bj8 mirror
My car, which I acquired with less than 15,000 miles on the odo and
therefore believe it has the original mirror installed, has a rectangular,
all metal mirror, not the more oval black one. I have been told more than
once that I do not have a BJ8 mirror on my car. According to the Body
Service Parts List (AKD 3524), my mirror, Part No. 14B 1861, is applicable
to 100-6, HBJ7, and HBJ8 25315 to HBJ8 73213. A note after the HBJ7
listing states, "W.S.E.; use AHB6920" which is the mirror part number for
HBJ8 73214 and later. It would appear that the 14B1861 supply was not
exhausted (W.S.E. - When Supply Exhausted) when my car was built on 10-17
Nov, 1966. Therefore, either mirror would be an 'original' BJ8 mirror in
my opinion.
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA
1967 3000 MKIII HBJ8L39031
> [Original Message]
> From: bjcap <bjcap@frontiernet.net>
> To: healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 2/9/2004 5:56:32 PM
> Subject: Bj8 mirror
>
> Looking for a good used original BJ8 dash mirror. one that I just need to
> repaint and mirrored glass is in good shape. Please contact off-list
>
> Thanks,
> Carroll Phillips
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Joseph Bachman III" <josephbachman@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 01:11:00 -0800 (PST)
Subject: RE: Bj8 mirror
I'm pretty sure my '64 came originally with the
rectangular metal one as well.
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- Len and/or Marge <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
wrote:
> This begs the question: What is an original BJ8
> dash mirror?
>
> My car, which I acquired with less than 15,000 miles
> on the odo and
> therefore believe it has the original mirror
> installed, has a rectangular,
> all metal mirror, not the more oval black one. I
> have been told more than
> once that I do not have a BJ8 mirror on my car.
> According to the Body
> Service Parts List (AKD 3524), my mirror, Part No.
> 14B 1861, is applicable
> to 100-6, HBJ7, and HBJ8 25315 to HBJ8 73213. A
> note after the HBJ7
> listing states, "W.S.E.; use AHB6920" which is the
> mirror part number for
> HBJ8 73214 and later. It would appear that the
> 14B1861 supply was not
> exhausted (W.S.E. - When Supply Exhausted) when my
> car was built on 10-17
> Nov, 1966. Therefore, either mirror would be an
> 'original' BJ8 mirror in
> my opinion.
>
> (The Other) Len
> Vacaville, CA
> 1967 3000 MKIII HBJ8L39031
>
>
> > [Original Message]
> > From: bjcap <bjcap@frontiernet.net>
> > To: healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Date: 2/9/2004 5:56:32 PM
> > Subject: Bj8 mirror
> >
> > Looking for a good used original BJ8 dash mirror.
> one that I just need to
> > repaint and mirrored glass is in good shape.
> Please contact off-list
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Carroll Phillips
From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Joseph Bachman III" <josephbachman@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 06:39:53 -0500
Subject: Re: Bj8 mirror
This has come up in list discussion before. Evidence with my car and the
configuration data collected in the BJ8 registry lead me to believe that the
factory used whatever was available regardless of what the parts books say.
Actually, I like the all-metal mirror better than the later one.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: Len and/or Marge
To: Healeys Mailing List
Sent: Tuesday, February 10, 2004 2:37 AM
Subject: RE: Bj8 mirror
This begs the question: What is an original BJ8 dash mirror?
My car, which I acquired with less than 15,000 miles on the odo and
therefore believe it has the original mirror installed, has a rectangular,
all metal mirror, not the more oval black one. I have been told more than
once that I do not have a BJ8 mirror on my car. According to the Body
Service Parts List (AKD 3524), my mirror, Part No. 14B 1861, is applicable
to 100-6, HBJ7, and HBJ8 25315 to HBJ8 73213. A note after the HBJ7
listing states, "W.S.E.; use AHB6920" which is the mirror part number for
HBJ8 73214 and later. It would appear that the 14B1861 supply was not
exhausted (W.S.E. - When Supply Exhausted) when my car was built on 10-17
Nov, 1966. Therefore, either mirror would be an 'original' BJ8 mirror in
my opinion.
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA
1967 3000 MKIII HBJ8L39031
> [Original Message]
> From: bjcap <bjcap@frontiernet.net>
> To: healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 2/9/2004 5:56:32 PM
> Subject: Bj8 mirror
>
> Looking for a good used original BJ8 dash mirror. one that I just need to
> repaint and mirrored glass is in good shape. Please contact off-list
>
> Thanks,
> Carroll Phillips
From "James Shope" <healeymanjim at JoiMail.com>
From: "Joseph Bachman III" <josephbachman@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 08:23:44 -0800
Subject: healeys on ebay
From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Joseph Bachman III" <josephbachman@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 13:23:24 -0600
Subject: Fw: 100/4 door trim for body # 6968
if you have a 100 body # 6968 (or upside down 8969!) you have my 2 door top
aluminium door trim pieces. i have yours. long story but you pro'lly b
sportin' a 327 Chevy circa ? '63-69 and i believe a 2 speed Powerglide in a
last seen Red 100/4 built by Pete Tyre (REAL name) while he was in
Amite,Louisiana....i last saw the car in approx.1969-70?? you also should
have
my kingpins and early 100/6,3000 front disk brakes and home-made driver only
'rollbar'.......anyone on the list?? TIA/YMMV/NFI?,
Love-N-Stuff,
HoYo
ps your trim should have the # 7605.......
From Ron Fine <RonFineEsq at earthlink.net>
From: "Joseph Bachman III" <josephbachman@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 11:48:29 -0800
Subject: Question about valve springs
From "Rick &7& Neves" <Rick at genomictechnologies.com>
From: "Joseph Bachman III" <josephbachman@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 15:31:42 -0500
Subject: Puzzled with Gas line fittings.
I got a new electronic SU positive ground pump with what looks like
compression type fittings on the inlet and outlets but the standard 5/16th
nuts That I get at the local car parts store don't fit. The treads are coarse
on the pump.
Does anybody know where to get these types of fittings and what kind they
are?? I'm not even sure if they are compression fittings. The taper on the
inside is very minimal.
Sincerely
Rick Neves
'56 BN-2
_._
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.581 / Virus Database: 368 - Release Date: 02/09/2004
From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Joseph Bachman III" <josephbachman@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 15:52:36 -0500
Subject: Trans update II
From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 14:40:52 -0700
Subject: Question about valve springs
.
> Should I also replace the valve springs or can I assume that the
From daniel white <dwhite4949 at earthlink.net>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 16:44:10 -0500
Subject: Fender bead dent removal answer
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 17:19:25 EST
Subject: BJ8 on ebay
I have a friend who wants to buy it a BJ8. Actually he wanted to buy the
100-S until I told him it was a fake....
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2458546621
Any help appreciated
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 09:54:54 +1100
Subject: RE: BJ8 on ebay
I would be careful of this one. To me it looks like a 100S that's been
tarted up to look like a BJ8.
Hoo Roo
Patrick Quinn
-----Original Message-----
From: Jwhlyadv@aol.com [mailto:Jwhlyadv@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, 11 February 2004 9:19 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: BJ8 on ebay
Anyone know anything about this car on ebay? Or the seller?
I have a friend who wants to buy it a BJ8. Actually he wanted to buy the
100-S until I told him it was a fake....
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2458546621
Any help appreciated
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
**********************************************************************
This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain
privileged information or confidential information or both. If you
are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender.
**********************************************************************
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 15:04:40 -0800
Subject: Re: Trans update II
The flywheeel comes off separately - just undo the four bolts in the centre
after bending back the locktabs. It should then come right off the
crankshaft rear flange with a bit of a tap with a hammer. Careful, it's
heavy!
The engine rear plate can then be unbolted if desired - there are either 9
or 10 bolts, can't remember which - no need to remove the engine, or do
anything else. You'll need to do this to modify the plate if you are
installing a rear seal kit.
I suggest new locktabs when you re-install the flywheel, and you'll need a
rear plate gasket, as well.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BT7 tri-carb
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 10, 2004 12:52 PM
Subject: Trans update II
Does the flywheel come out alone or do you have to take out the engine back
plate which according to my books means pulling the engine? 1962 BT7 Cheers,
JL
From "bradley lawler" <miata-driver at charter.net>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 17:34:40 -0600
Subject: Phil Combs
Anyone know if Phil Combs is still around? He has had a few Healey's and
owned 56 FAC for a few years? If so do you have a e-mail or website of his
company.
Thanks
Brad Lawler
From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 19:12:20 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8 on ebay
Harwood Enterprises regularly sells BJ8s (and maybe other models,too) on eBay.
However, they don't respond to questions about other details of the cars they
are selling, if you tell them you are not interested in bidding on or buying
the car. Some sellers do. I haven't had any feedback from Harwood's BJ8
customers that they have been disappointed with the cars they have bought
there.
I have a record of this car as owned in the mid-'80s. At that time, it was in
Parma, Michigan. Internet search on the name and telephone number of that
owner does not turn up anything useful, so we can consider them lost to
history as far as the car is concerned. Any BJ8 owners who do not want to be
lost to history might want to contact me and allow me to document their
ownership in the BJ8 registry.
Cheers!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Jwhlyadv@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, February 10, 2004 5:19 PM
Subject: BJ8 on ebay
Anyone know anything about this car on ebay? Or the seller?
I have a friend who wants to buy it a BJ8. Actually he wanted to buy the
100-S until I told him it was a fake....
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2458546621
Any help appreciated
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 19:25:45 -0500
Subject: Re: Trans update II
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 10, 2004 3:52 PM
Subject: Trans update II
> Does the flywheel come out alone or do you have to take out the engine
back
> plate which according to my books means pulling the engine? 1962 BT7
Cheers,
> JL
From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 20:18:24 -0500
Subject: Re: Trans update II
From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 21:12:17 EST
Subject: Re: Trans update II
From "Jim LeBlanc" <jleblanc at midsouth.rr.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 20:54:25 -0600
Subject: RE: Trans update II - Stopping the Leaks
With glue I have been successful at stopping oil leaks in the 100-4 and
two Harleys.
Be careful to avoid getting any glue deposits into the interior of the
trans. The glue crap will clog the tiny holes in the trans overdrive
valve. It is impossible for the soft glue to damage any metal parts, it
will just annoy you by clogging tiny holes. In the Harleys it also does
no damage, but can clog the check valves that keep oil in the oil tank.
So keep the glue on the outside of the engine and trans.
Also have your block align bored to take the flex out of the crankshaft.
Crankshaft vibrations seem to defeat the reverse thread that intends to
throw the oil back into the engine. Also clean and clear the hole that
leads oil back into the crankcase.
Oil works its way through the threads and the split washer in every
location that has oil behind it. Use the glue to defeat this but be
certain to keep the glue on the outside of the engine and trans. Be
careful during future disassembly as the glue crap can get into the
works at that time.
I did all this to my 100-4 engine some 20 years ago. Even now there is
very little dripping between my engine and trans. Maybe two drops per
month. No seal on the rear of my crankshaft, just seal those bolts and
tighten them to recommended specifications.
Best Regards,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of James Lea
Sent: Tuesday, February 10, 2004 7:18 PM
To: Earl Kagna; Healey List
Subject: Re: Trans update II
Earl and listers. When I bought the car, I was told that a rear seal had
been
installed. Now that I am into the job I am seeing things that make me
glad I
am taking it apart. I have found no locktabs anywhere so far which makes
me
wonder what kind of armature mechanic worked on the car. I hope that
the PO
has done a better job on the rest of the engine and it will be
interesting to
see if there really is a rear seal. Thanks, JL
From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 21:55:51 -0500
Subject: Dennis Welsh/Walsh?
From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 22:04:16 EST
Subject: Re: Dennis Welsh/Walsh?
http://www.bighealey.co.uk/
In a message dated 2/10/04 6:57:09 PM, clocks@midcoast.com writes:
> Does anyone have an e-mail address or web address for Dennis Welsh/Walsh in
> the UK? I need some competition parts. Thanks, JL
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 19:40:39 -0800
Subject: Re: BJ8 on ebay
Just wondering ...
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jwhlyadv@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 10, 2004 2:19 PM
Subject: BJ8 on ebay
> Anyone know anything about this car on ebay? Or the seller?
>
> I have a friend who wants to buy it a BJ8. Actually he wanted to buy the
> 100-S until I told him it was a fake....
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2458546621
>
> Any help appreciated
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Werner
> Louisville, KY
From "David" <dcrawfor at san.rr.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 19:41:32 -0800
Subject: Re: Dennis Welsh/Walsh?
http://www.bighealey.co.uk/new%20healey/healey02/Healey%204%20cyl%20engine%20
top%20end%201.htm
David Crawford
BN1
----- Original Message -----
From: James Lea
To: List Healeys
Sent: Tuesday, February 10, 2004 6:55 PM
Subject: Dennis Welsh/Walsh?
Does anyone have an e-mail address or web address for Dennis Welsh/Walsh in
the UK? I need some competition parts. Thanks, JL
***
From MBran89793 at aol.com
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 22:47:30 EST
Subject: Re: BJ8 on ebay
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
Concours Committee Member
From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 19:58:54 -0800
Subject: Re: Question about valve springs
The shop manual gives spring heights. Compare the measurements with the
manual. Also, it is an easy thing to replace now and much harder later.
John
'62 BT7
At 11:48 AM 2/10/04 -0800, you wrote:
>Hello List. I am doing a "stock" restoration and I need to replace the
>valves in my 3000 engine head. I'll probably add hardened seats. Should I
>also replace the valve springs or can I assume that the original ones are
>OK for the few thousand miles a year I will put on the car after the
>restoration? I don't want to pay to fix things that are not broken. (I
>don't have any idea how many miles are on the engine or the present valves.)
>Ron
>61BN7
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 20:57:35 -0700
Subject: Re: Dennis Welsh/Walsh?
D
James Lea wrote:
> Does anyone have an e-mail address or web address for Dennis Welsh/Walsh in
> the UK? I need some competition parts. Thanks, JL
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 20:00:28 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Dennis Welsh/Walsh?
www.bighealey.com
also.... cape carries competitions parts as well :
www.cape-international.com
Dennis Welch has more cool stuff off the shelf, Cape
tends to sell kits that are more complete than Dennis
Welch's and more willing to do custom work.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- James Lea <clocks@midcoast.com> wrote:
> Does anyone have an e-mail address or web address
> for Dennis Welsh/Walsh in
> the UK? I need some competition parts. Thanks, JL
From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 20:03:12 -0800
Subject: Re: Trans update II
There is an oillite bearing in the middle of the flywheel that should be
replaced too.
John
'62 BT7
At 03:04 PM 2/10/04 -0800, Earl Kagna wrote:
>James:
>
>I suggest new locktabs when you re-install the flywheel, and you'll need a
>rear plate gasket, as well.
>
>Earl Kagna
From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 20:11:26 -0800
Subject: Fly wheel balancing
Can I put the flywheel back the right way, number 1 at the top, and ignore
the balancing?
Will this affect anything?
Should I pull the crank and have the flywheel re-balanced correctly?
I don't know much about balancing but I always thought the crank and
flywheel were balanced together.
TIA
John
'62 BT7
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 20:21:40 -0800
Subject: BT7 Radio
Anyone know of an original "Radiomobile" radio and speaker for sale? I
would prefer the style originally installed in the early Mark 1 cars.
Thanks.
Terry Blubaugh
Southern California
'60 BT7
From "Lynn Martin-Forever Healeys" <foreverhealeys at my180.net>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 21:11:01 -0800
Subject: 100M starter update
Thanks again for everyones thoughts,
Lynn
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lynn Martin-Forever Healeys"
Subject: 100M starter
> I have a 100M with high compression pistons. The engine was rebuilt along
with
> the starter. The problem is that the starter doesn't have the power to
spin
> the engine properly. It will start but it turns over slowly. I did have a
> second rebuilt starter that I tried but it made no difference.
>
> Has anyone else had this problem and if so what did you do to correct it?
>
> TIA,
> Lynn Martin
> Post Falls, Idaho
> BJ7, (3) BT7s, BN7, BN6, BN4
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 22:14:50 -0700
Subject: Re: Fly wheel balancing
The flywheel & clutch assembly are almost always balanced separately
from the crankshaft assembly. It should not make any difference which
way it is mounted.
Dave Russell
BN2
john spaur wrote:
> I believe the machine shop that balanced my engine a while back balance
> the flywheel 90 degrees off from what it should be. There seemed to be
> mating marks that when matched placed the number 1 that is stamped on
> the flywheel 90 degrees from what it should be when the engine is static
> timed. It runs fine and is no big deal except that I have now pulled the
> engine to do other work.
>
> Can I put the flywheel back the right way, number 1 at the top, and
> ignore the balancing?
> Will this affect anything?
> Should I pull the crank and have the flywheel re-balanced correctly?
>
> I don't know much about balancing but I always thought the crank and
> flywheel were balanced together.
>
> TIA
> John
> '62 BT7
From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 22:42:30 -0800 (PST)
Subject: re. Re: Trans update II
The "No lockplates" observation isn't necessarily a
travesty. Most traditional (283 through 350 and Big
Block) performance Chevrolet books reccomend star
washers and locktite on the threads.
Regards,
Joe Mulqueen
'60 BT7
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 20:18:24 -0500
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
Subject: Re: Trans update II
...I am seeing things that make me glad I am taking it
apart. I have found no locktabs anywhere so far which
makes me wonder what kind of armature mechanic worked
on the car. I hope that
the PO has done a better job on the rest of the engine...
__________________________________
Yahoo! Finance: Get your refund fast by filing online.
http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 06:01:43 -0600
Subject: Re: Phil Combs
From "Vink, Graham" <vinkg at fleishman.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 08:04:26 -0600
Subject: re - Stopping the Leaks - thread sealer?
Thanks.
Graham
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 09:38:22 -0500
Subject: re BJ8 mirror
Just a thought
Carroll
From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Jwhlyadv@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 10:18:42 -0600
Subject: RE: BJ8 on ebay
> G'day
>
> I would be careful of this one. To me it looks like a 100S that's been
> tarted up to look like a BJ8.
>
> Hoo Roo
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jwhlyadv@aol.com [mailto:Jwhlyadv@aol.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, 11 February 2004 9:19 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: BJ8 on ebay
>
>
> Anyone know anything about this car on ebay? Or the seller?
>
> I have a friend who wants to buy it a BJ8. Actually he wanted to buy the
>
> 100-S until I told him it was a fake....
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2458546621
>
> Any help appreciated
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Werner
> Louisville, KY
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Jwhlyadv@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 08:22:40 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: re - Stopping the Leaks - thread sealer?
Dean BN7
__________________________________
Yahoo! Finance: Get your refund fast by filing online.
http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html
From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Jwhlyadv@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 16:25:26 +0000
Subject: Re: Dennis Welsh/Walsh?
From Austin Healey <ah2003conclave at yahoo.com>
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Jwhlyadv@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 09:03:07 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Auction - Barrett Jackson-Austin healey -the rest of the
THE WHOOPSIES AT THE BARRETT JACKSON AUCTION
Mark C Bach
The Barrett Jackson Car Auction was held last month in Scottsdale,
Arizona. Hopefully you had the chance to see the auction on SPEED
Channel. If not it will be seen re-broadcast and edited versions of
the sales will be shown soon thereafter.
As carefully orchestrated as the auction is, you must remember you
are working with 1000 car sellers and 3000 + car bidders plus 15-
20,000 general public. Mistakes will happen and Barrett Jackson has
a work cart roaming the grounds standing ready to jump start a car or
loan a wrench when needed. They try to make things right!
This year we saw plenty of flat tires. Both the 55 red Mercedes Gull
Wing as well as a humble tri-five Chevy had them. Those were soon
fixed. Not so lucky was a rod owner with a fat rear tire who
squeezed three aerosol cans of "instant fix a flat" into the tire but
neglected to read the part about driving so the goo would circulate
and seal the leak. Instead the tire deflated and left a nice puddle
of goo beside the rim.
A 1936 Ford convertible street rod had a huge dimple near its right
front headlight. At least it proved the fender was metal! Never did
hear the story on it and never saw it cross the auction block. A
driver in a 32 Ford Roadster found out why they made fenders for the
cars. The rear wheels kicked up a ton of mud all over the exquisite
rear deck of this flamed street rod
But we did hear the story about the Lamborghini Countach Coupe. At
Barrett Jackson the majority of the cars are parked and viewed in a
lower grassy field (actually used for polo after all we are in
Scottsdale!). BJ sets up three huge tents and parks the cars in rows
of two back to back, with aisles between each row for the public to
walk down. On Friday we saw this 1985 white Lamborghini with
pitiful front end damage. Certainly the owner didn't bring it this
way to try and sell it I wondered. I didn't notice the car across
the aisle that was wrapped up with a car cover. Obviously that owner
must truly treasure his car and didn't want the public to dirty it up
I thought.
It turns out the Lamborghini was backed up to another car and was 30+
feet away from a fabulous light blue 62 Austin Healy 3000 2+2
roadster. The story I hear is the Lambo's driver started the car in
gear and it lurched forward and smacked into the proud English
import. The Lambo suffered extensive squishes to the front end
fiberglass and even its driver's mirror was dangling. The Austin
Healy endured severe damage to the front end and neither car was
auctioned. The Lamborghini was equipped with a V-12 engine that
went (obviously) 0-60 in 5 seconds. Too bad we didn't know the 60-0
braking distance! The Austin Healy owner seemed to be taking it in
stride but I'm sure the insurance company for our befuddled driver
was not happy. That's one phone call I'd rather not be making.
Hey mistakes happen !
See ya' on the road.
See the pictures of Mark's Whoopsies here;
http://www.carnewz.com/rag/MarkCBachPhotos/more_mark_c_bachs_photos.htm
Mark C Bach's Email Address is MarkCBach@ClassicRag.com
Copyright 2004 BS Brash
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Finance: Get your refund fast by filing online
From Ron Fine <RonFineEsq at earthlink.net>
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Jwhlyadv@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 09:17:19 -0800
Subject: Thanks and another question.
From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 12:55:11 -0600
Subject: Thanks and another question.
> Thanks to everyone with the help on the valve spring question. I'm
> trying to figure out if my engine has previously been rebuilt. The
> bearings show a lot of wear. The marks on the back of the crank
> bearings (main and rod) have a maker's stamp with a P stamped over V in
> a circle and some part numbers. I don't see any marks indicating they
> are oversized such as a +10. If the car was once rebuild and oversized
> bearings installed I would expect to see some mark indicating they were
> oversized.
> Am I correct ? So is it likely this is the first time this engine has
> been rebuilt. I know that the machine shop will eventually measure
> everything but I'm not there yet. Just curious as usual. Having a
> great time getting into all the engine stuff.
> Ron Fine
> 61 BN7
From "R.J. Denton" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 14:20:06 -0600
Subject: Re: Auction - Barrett Jackson-Austin healey -the rest of
Bob Denton
Austin Healey wrote:
> I received permission to past this information on to the Healey List; posting
>off of Nicks site. Pete Groh Ellicott City, MD USA.
>
>
> THE WHOOPSIES AT THE BARRETT JACKSON AUCTION
> Mark C Bach
>
> The Barrett Jackson Car Auction was held last month in Scottsdale,
> Arizona. Hopefully you had the chance to see the auction on SPEED
> Channel. If not it will be seen re-broadcast and edited versions of
> the sales will be shown soon thereafter.
>
> As carefully orchestrated as the auction is, you must remember you
> are working with 1000 car sellers and 3000 + car bidders plus 15-
> 20,000 general public. Mistakes will happen and Barrett Jackson has
> a work cart roaming the grounds standing ready to jump start a car or
> loan a wrench when needed. They try to make things right!
>
> This year we saw plenty of flat tires. Both the 55 red Mercedes Gull
> Wing as well as a humble tri-five Chevy had them. Those were soon
> fixed. Not so lucky was a rod owner with a fat rear tire who
> squeezed three aerosol cans of "instant fix a flat" into the tire but
> neglected to read the part about driving so the goo would circulate
> and seal the leak. Instead the tire deflated and left a nice puddle
> of goo beside the rim.
>
> A 1936 Ford convertible street rod had a huge dimple near its right
> front headlight. At least it proved the fender was metal! Never did
> hear the story on it and never saw it cross the auction block. A
> driver in a 32 Ford Roadster found out why they made fenders for the
> cars. The rear wheels kicked up a ton of mud all over the exquisite
> rear deck of this flamed street rod
>
> But we did hear the story about the Lamborghini Countach Coupe. At
> Barrett Jackson the majority of the cars are parked and viewed in a
> lower grassy field (actually used for polo after all we are in
> Scottsdale!). BJ sets up three huge tents and parks the cars in rows
> of two back to back, with aisles between each row for the public to
> walk down. On Friday we saw this 1985 white Lamborghini with
> pitiful front end damage. Certainly the owner didn't bring it this
> way to try and sell it I wondered. I didn't notice the car across
> the aisle that was wrapped up with a car cover. Obviously that owner
> must truly treasure his car and didn't want the public to dirty it up
> I thought.
>
> It turns out the Lamborghini was backed up to another car and was 30+
> feet away from a fabulous light blue 62 Austin Healy 3000 2+2
> roadster. The story I hear is the Lambo's driver started the car in
> gear and it lurched forward and smacked into the proud English
> import. The Lambo suffered extensive squishes to the front end
> fiberglass and even its driver's mirror was dangling. The Austin
> Healy endured severe damage to the front end and neither car was
> auctioned. The Lamborghini was equipped with a V-12 engine that
> went (obviously) 0-60 in 5 seconds. Too bad we didn't know the 60-0
> braking distance! The Austin Healy owner seemed to be taking it in
> stride but I'm sure the insurance company for our befuddled driver
> was not happy. That's one phone call I'd rather not be making.
>
> Hey mistakes happen !
>
> See ya' on the road.
>
> See the pictures of Mark's Whoopsies here;
>
>
>
> http://www.carnewz.com/rag/MarkCBachPhotos/more_mark_c_bachs_photos.htm
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 12:15:53 -0800
Subject: Oil Leak Blues
I used a good quality motorcycle permatex betw engine & plate instead of
paper gasket, and my leakage is probably coming from the seal itself.
Doug Reid told me Hylomar is great for this sort of thing as well.
My car also leaks from the rear of the pan, as well as from the front timing
cover and/or the front of the pan.
I had to trim the little cork blocks down to stuff them into their holes and
I think it didn't take.
Has anyone tried silicone in here instead of the little blocks etc?
I'd certainly like to see a definitive article somewhere on how to seal your
engine up so it won't leak!
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
> From: Dean Caccavo <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
> Reply-To: Dean Caccavo <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
> Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 08:22:40 -0800 (PST)
> To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: re - Stopping the Leaks - thread sealer?
>
> I wish I would have done this when assembling my 3000
> motor - as I have assigned full culpability to the
> rear oil seal... Next time I pull the trans, I'll coat
> and replace each bolt in the trans and backplate!
>
> Dean BN7
From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 13:34:46 -0700
Subject: Thanks and another question.
I would expect to see some mark indicating they were
oversized.
From "John Trifari" <jtrifari at comcast.net>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 15:22:16 -0800
Subject: Rendezvous/OpenRoads regalia
John Trifari
Golden Gate Austin Healey Club
408-541-9608
jtrifari@GoldenGateHealeys.com
jtrifari@comcast.net
Regalia for Rendezvous 2004
at Tahoe can now be ordered
SUNNYVALE CA - February 10, 2004: Regalia for the Healey Rendezvous
2004/OpenRoads meet at Lake Tahoe is now available by pre-order from the
Golden Gate Austin Healey Club, the host organization for the event.
Healey Rendezvous 2004/OpenRoads, this year's meeting of west coast
Austin Healey owners and enthusiasts, will be held at the Horizon Casino and
Resort in Stateline NV (Lake Tahoe South Shore). It will run from Thursday,
June 3, 2004 through Saturday, June 5. Arrival is during the afternoon of
Wednesday, June 2; departure on Sunday morning June 6.
All regalia for the meet must be pre-ordered and payment must be
received by March 15, 2004. All pre-ordered regalia will be shipped prior to
Healey Rendezvous 2004/OpenRoads. Only limited amounts of regalia will be
available for sale at the meet. The following items will be available by
pre-order-all bearing the official meet logo.
T-shirt: $16.95 (navy/white/red)
Polo shirt: $29.95 (navy/white/red)
Sweatshirt: $34.95 (navy/hunter
green/khaki)
Ladies fitted T-shirt $19.95 (navy/white/red)
The above clothing is available in XS,S,M,L,XL and XXL sizes.
Also available are:
Baseball cap $14.95 (navy/natural)
Bar badges $27.50
Rendezvous/OpenRoads boxer shorts are available at $14.95 per pair
in navy or red in S, M, L and XL sizes.
Regalia pricing does not include shipping and handling. California
residents please add 7.25% sales tax.
Regalia packets with an order form and catalog have already been
mailed to west coast Healey owners and enthusiasts. A catalog sheet and an
order form can be downloaded from the Golden Gate Austin Healey Club web site
www.GoldenGateHealeys.com.
Also available at the Golden Gate web site is a registration form
for the meet. Registration is $89. This covers one car and two adults.
Additional adults are $30 each; additional cars $30. There is no charge for
children under 15. Double rooms will be available at the Horizon for $89 per
night excluding taxes; $99 for three people per room and $109 for four.
Registrants must have a registration number issued by the Golden Gate Austin
Healey Club to obtain this special rate.
###
From "John Trifari" <jtrifari at comcast.net>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 15:27:24 -0800
Subject: Regalia for Rendezvous/OpenRoads
John Trifari
Golden Gate Austin Healey Club
408-541-9608
jtrifari@GoldenGateHealeys.com
jtrifari@comcast.net
Regalia for Rendezvous 2004
at Tahoe can now be ordered
SUNNYVALE CA - February 10, 2004: Regalia for the Healey Rendezvous
2004/OpenRoads meet at Lake Tahoe is now available by pre-order from the
Golden Gate Austin Healey Club, the host organization for the event.
Healey Rendezvous 2004/OpenRoads, this year's meeting of west coast
Austin Healey owners and enthusiasts, will be held at the Horizon Casino and
Resort in Stateline NV (Lake Tahoe South Shore). It will run from Thursday,
June 3, 2004 through Saturday, June 5. Arrival is during the afternoon of
Wednesday, June 2; departure on Sunday morning June 6.
All regalia for the meet must be pre-ordered and payment must be
received by March 15, 2004. All pre-ordered regalia will be shipped prior to
Healey Rendezvous 2004/OpenRoads. Only limited amounts of regalia will be
available for sale at the meet. The following items will be available by
pre-order-all bearing the official meet logo.
T-shirt: $16.95 (navy/white/red)
Polo shirt: $29.95 (navy/white/red)
Sweatshirt: $34.95 (navy/hunter
green/khaki)
Ladies fitted T-shirt $19.95 (navy/white/red)
The above clothing is available in XS,S,M,L,XL and XXL sizes.
Also available are:
Baseball cap $14.95 (navy/natural)
Bar badges $27.50
Rendezvous/OpenRoads boxer shorts are available at $14.95 per pair
in navy or red in S, M, L and XL sizes.
Regalia pricing does not include shipping and handling. California
residents please add 7.25% sales tax.
Regalia packets with an order form and catalog have already been
mailed to west coast Healey owners and enthusiasts. A catalog sheet and an
order form can be downloaded from the Golden Gate Austin Healey Club web site
www.GoldenGateHealeys.com.
Also available at the Golden Gate web site is a registration form
for the meet. Registration is $89. This covers one car and two adults.
Additional adults are $30 each; additional cars $30. There is no charge for
children under 15. Double rooms will be available at the Horizon for $89 per
night excluding taxes; $99 for three people per room and $109 for four.
Registrants must have a registration number issued by the Golden Gate Austin
Healey Club to obtain this special rate.
###
From "Jim LeBlanc" <jleblanc at midsouth.rr.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 17:45:19 -0600
Subject: RE: Oil Leak Blues
The cures for leaks have always been silicon glue and align boring the
crankshaft. Uncertain of faint memories, I did pick these techniques up
sometime, circa 1967, and likely from somebody at Myers Drake
Engineering in LA or from Speedomotive in Southgate, both Southern CA.
Since then I have applied both, glue with proper caution, and always
received excellent results. Still a few drops, but nothing like what has
been reported by others.
The beauty of a silicon sealant is that it flexes and moves with the
engine. Any sealant that hardens will again leak with time. I am
thinking the permatex you reference is like a silicon sealant.
I did forget to mention that on some Healeys the rear plate seals the
rear of the camshaft. I hear this is an area of high oil pressure. I
confirm this from my 100-4 manual. My 6 cylinder manual has long been
given away so I can not confirm this.
Best Regards,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M with few leaks.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Steve Gerow
Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2004 2:16 PM
To: Healeys
Subject: Oil Leak Blues
Not sure why sealing the bolts would make any difference on the back
plate.
As I recall none of them go thru into the crankcase (could be wrong abt
this).
I used a good quality motorcycle permatex betw engine & plate instead of
paper gasket, and my leakage is probably coming from the seal itself.
Doug Reid told me Hylomar is great for this sort of thing as well.
My car also leaks from the rear of the pan, as well as from the front
timing
cover and/or the front of the pan.
I had to trim the little cork blocks down to stuff them into their holes
and
I think it didn't take.
Has anyone tried silicone in here instead of the little blocks etc?
I'd certainly like to see a definitive article somewhere on how to seal
your
engine up so it won't leak!
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
> From: Dean Caccavo <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
> Reply-To: Dean Caccavo <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
> Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 08:22:40 -0800 (PST)
> To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: re - Stopping the Leaks - thread sealer?
>
> I wish I would have done this when assembling my 3000
> motor - as I have assigned full culpability to the
> rear oil seal... Next time I pull the trans, I'll coat
> and replace each bolt in the trans and backplate!
>
> Dean BN7
From linwood rose <linwoodrose at mac.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 20:38:56 -0500
Subject: packing bearings
Lin
60 BT7
59 Bugeye
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 19:08:12 -0800
Subject: Do I have all my balls?
Since I have the tunnel off and installing side cover and plug gaskets,
I though I might explore some possible causes of this slipping out of
gear problem.
Might the transmission be missing one or more of the detent balls and
springs? Which ones might be for second gear? I notice in the Moss
catalog pics there are some balls that go in from the top, a stacked
pair, and some from the side.
If anyone is really familiar with sideshifters, and can indicate which
parts pertain to second gear by identifying them by illustration number
on the Moss catalog page I would be greatly helped.
I might be missing some balls and don't know where to look. From what I
understand, you don't want to drive a Healey without them.
Brian N.
From "Neal Grotenhuis" <grotenhuis at comcast.net>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 23:19:16 -0500
Subject: RE: Top bow space dimenisions
>From the rear center tenax fastener to the center of the rear bow: 17 1/2"
Between rear bow and center bow: 9"
Between center and forward bow: 10 7/8"
>From forward bow to front lip of windscreen: 21 1/2"
All bows measured in center.
Brrrr.
Neal G.
'61 BT7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of ECP4UW@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, February 08, 2004 10:01 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Top bow space dimenisions
I am in the process of putting a top on my BN4 car with the BT7 interior and
the top bows which are hopefully from one or the other. Before I order the
top I want to make sure the bows are going to work with the top I am going
to
order.
It would be very helpful if a couple of late BN4 or BT7 owners would measure
the distance between their bows. I need the distance from the center rear
tenex fastener and the first bow, the distance between the first bow and the
second and the distance between the second and the front bow. Center to
center on
the bows please.
I know someone is just dying to go out in the cold and get those
measurements
for me.
Why not reply off list and spare others this useless information (important
to me)
Thanks in advance.
Gene
BN4
From Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 22:38:57 -0800
Subject: Re packing bearings
From Slvrbulit2 at aol.com
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 05:10:42 EST
Subject: aftermarket exhaust
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 02:52:48 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: aftermarket exhaust
Clamps and hangers sold seperately! Lucky for the
BT-7, clamps and hangers are pretty simple stuff.
BJ8 = rube goldberg beware!
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- Slvrbulit2@aol.com wrote:
> I am wondering about the aftermarket exhaust kits
> sold in Moss catalog. I am
> trying to finish this car up and am wondering if an
> aftermarket stainless kit
> has all the clamps and hangers to complete the
> installation. Anyone know
> firsthand?
> Thanks
> Seth
> '60 BT-7
From David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 08:14:53 -0800
Subject: Re: Do I have all my balls?
> The car was shifting out of second gear when under neutral load. Kind
> of just slipping into neutral unannounced.
>
> Since I have the tunnel off and installing side cover and plug gaskets,
> I though I might explore some possible causes of this slipping out of
> gear problem.
>
> Might the transmission be missing one or more of the detent balls and
> springs? Which ones might be for second gear? I notice in the Moss
> catalog pics there are some balls that go in from the top, a stacked
> pair, and some from the side.
>
> If anyone is really familiar with sideshifters, and can indicate which
> parts pertain to second gear by identifying them by illustration number
> on the Moss catalog page I would be greatly helped.
>
> I might be missing some balls and don't know where to look. From what I
> understand, you don't want to drive a Healey without them.
>
> Brian N.
The is caused due to wear on the 1st gear sliding hub the only way to fix it
is to install a new gear
--
--
David Nock
NEW E-mail Addresses!!!
David Nock, Technical Questions healeydoc@sbcglobal.net
Sheila Nock-Huggins, Parts Questions britishcardoc@sbcglobal.net
British Car Specialists 2060 N. Wilson Way Stockton CA 95205
Phone 209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030
http://www.britishcarspecialists.com
From "James Shope" <healeymanjim at JoiMail.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 08:14:54 -0800
Subject: oil leaks
From James Sailer <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 10:49:50 -0700
Subject: BJ8 trans removal
I am installing my toyota trans in my BJ8 this weekend. I was going to do
the exchange with the engine in. I have removed a trans before like this
using a floor jack.
Has anyone used a cherry picker and sling versus using a floor jack? .. I
have the car on jackstands and can do it with either the floor jack method
or cheery picker based on what I hear from the list.
Thanks.
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
From Mike MacLean <macleans at earthlink.net>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 11:16:57 -0800
Subject: 100 Instument Cores?
From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 08:13:30 +1300
Subject: RE: packing bearings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of linwood rose
Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2004 2:39 PM
To: healey list
Subject: packing bearings
I have seen several "tools" advertised to make packing bearings with
grease a neater job. Does it suffice to just hand rub grease into the
bearings until it doesn't appear to accept anymore? Estimates on how
much grease is required to "pack" a new rear bearing on a 3000? Thanks
Lin
60 BT7
59 Bugeye
From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 12:15:06 -0800
Subject: nice web site
Ken Freese
http://britishtool.com/index.htm
LB-1 LUCAS EQUIPMENT FOR
1948-1962 CARS $15.00
same as above, but for later years.
LB-2 LUCAS EQUIPMENT FOR 1963-1965 CARS
From tld6008 at mchsi.com
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 21:10:34 +0000
Subject: Re: BJ8 trans removal
From James Sailer <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 14:19:13 -0700
Subject: RE: BJ8 trans removal
I will use my cherry picker.
Thanks All
JIM
-----Original Message-----
From: tld6008@mchsi.com [mailto:tld6008@mchsi.com]
Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2004 2:11 PM
To: James Sailer
Cc: Healey List
Subject: Re: BJ8 trans removal
How does using a floor jack correlate with a cherry picker? I can see using
a
cherry picker but not the floor jack. I just used my friend and myself.
--
Tim Davis BN7
> Greetings all.
>
> I am installing my toyota trans in my BJ8 this weekend. I was going to do
> the exchange with the engine in. I have removed a trans before like this
> using a floor jack.
>
> Has anyone used a cherry picker and sling versus using a floor jack? .. I
> have the car on jackstands and can do it with either the floor jack method
> or cheery picker based on what I hear from the list.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Jim Sailer
> 66 BJ8
From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 17:24:08 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8 trans removal
I found that a hoist did not work too well for installing the gearbox from
above if you are working alone. The windshield frame and dash interfere too
much with the fore/aft movement of the sling necessary to support the gearbox
while guiding it into place.
I once removed and installed a gearbox by myself by using a scissors jack
mounted on one of my son's skateboards. I positioned the skateboard/jack and
then set the gearbox down on it from above. I could adjust the height with
the jack while the skateboard allowed moving the gearbox fore and aft as I
guided it in or out. Last time I removed and installed one, though, I used a
neighbor and it was much easier. The hardest part is that you have to stuff
the thing so far up under the dash, which is in the way, and it's hard to
support it by hand like that while staying out of each other's way in the
crowded cockpit. You'll still probably need a moveable support under the
gearbox.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: James Sailer
To: Healey List
Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2004 12:49 PM
Subject: BJ8 trans removal
Greetings all.
I am installing my toyota trans in my BJ8 this weekend. I was going to do
the exchange with the engine in. I have removed a trans before like this
using a floor jack.
Has anyone used a cherry picker and sling versus using a floor jack? .. I
have the car on jackstands and can do it with either the floor jack method
or cheery picker based on what I hear from the list.
Thanks.
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
From RAWDAWGS at aol.com
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 17:29:45 EST
Subject: Re: Do I have all my balls?
Scott McPherson
BN4L
500 SEC
From James Albeck <mybjate at earthlink.net>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 14:32:16 -0800
Subject: Re: Re packing bearings
> I have always used a piece of wax paper to hold the bearing,place a
Helpful Hint from Elluise>
I haven't seen wax paper around the house in ten years!!! Use a plastic, zip
lock type, sandwich bag. It won't tear and you can put more pressure on the
part without the grease oozing out of the tears in the paper.
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 18:27:44 -0800
Subject: Re: Do I have all my balls?
John
Great info. I'll keep figuring this out. Hopefully my problem is
similar, and not the common first/second hub wear problem. That's
totally internal. Yikes! Not ready for that yet. I'm still getting
the rear axel put back together.
Just a project/progress note (began last Sunday):
Removed seats, kick panel, and carpet.
Cleaned floor with POR-15 Marine Clean product
Painted floor with POR-15
Removed rear hubs and axels
Cleaned brake backing plates. Messy from oozing hub seal.
Installed panhard rod bushings
Installed transmission mounts, tail housing bumper,
and new bushings in that longitudinal securing
rod under the back end of the transmission.
All this rubber was very rotten!
Scrubbed down the transmission. It was totally gunked up!
Fabricated new seat bracket wood with slight elevation and tilt.
Next couple of days:
New hub seals, gaskets.
New brakes, wheel cyls
Install insulation, carpet, seats, kick panels.
Install wheels, lower to the ground and
Apply "go-fast" to the pedal!
Weather's been spectacluar, so I'm working on it as fast as I can!
Brian N
Santa Cruz
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 21:56:44 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Do I have all my balls?
I know my car is a top shifter... but I had the exact
same problem a few years ago.
I popped the cover and found that my balls were
missing (springs missing too).
I replaced all my balls (and springs) with new balls I
bought from Moss (I think) and it cured the problem.
I have not popped out of second gear in the 15 years
since I fixed my balls. I suggest you fix your balls
first before replacing gears... to see if that works!
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- Brian N <brian@beachcitygas.com> wrote:
> The car was shifting out of second gear when under
> neutral load. Kind
> of just slipping into neutral unannounced.
>
> Since I have the tunnel off and installing side
> cover and plug gaskets,
> I though I might explore some possible causes of
> this slipping out of
> gear problem.
>
> Might the transmission be missing one or more of the
> detent balls and
> springs? Which ones might be for second gear? I
> notice in the Moss
> catalog pics there are some balls that go in from
> the top, a stacked
> pair, and some from the side.
>
> If anyone is really familiar with sideshifters, and
> can indicate which
> parts pertain to second gear by identifying them by
> illustration number
> on the Moss catalog page I would be greatly helped.
>
> I might be missing some balls and don't know where
> to look. From what I
> understand, you don't want to drive a Healey without
> them.
>
> Brian N.
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 07:42:31 -0800
Subject: Re: Do I have all my balls?
John--
I'm shooting to have it ready to drive this SUNDAY!
Then I'll pull it into the garage and tinker with the front end of the
car for a week or so. I have a new wire harness, left side air duct,
ball joints, trafficator, and carb rebuild kit to install.
Sounds like about a week. Maybe two.
Cheers,
Brian
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 07:45:22 -0800
Subject: Re: Do I have all my balls?
Yes, Mark, but do I REALLY want to look at those parts? I might start
crying! And thinking of where I can find a rice grinder.
Brian N.
From "Ken Stickle" <kstickle at rochester.rr.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 12:18:03 -0500
Subject: Used Parts Needed
A used/working "Heater Assembly" with "Radiator" and "Heater Control
Valve".
and
A the Lower Moulding trim for the grille that fits...... Purchased one
from Moss and it was just the wrong size (too long) and shaped wrong on
the ends. I thought it might be the wrong one that they sent me but
they say "no". Anyway, I thought that if I found one that was already
used, it would fit properly!
I sure hope there's something out there!
Thanks
Ken
58 BN6
Rochester, NY
From "Jim LeBlanc" <jleblanc at midsouth.rr.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 12:35:04 -0600
Subject: RE: Oil Leak Blues
When changing differential oil and transmission oil, I wrap Teflon tape
around the oil drain plugs. Theses coarse thread plugs seep oil and form
a few drops per month. Should you choose to also do this, reduce the
torque during reinstallation. The Teflon tape is really slippery and I
have heard of aluminum trans housings being split in half due to the
effects of torquing the plug too hard.
Best Regards,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jim LeBlanc
Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2004 5:45 PM
To: 'Steve Gerow'; 'Healeys'
Subject: RE: Oil Leak Blues
Betty White on an episode of The Mary Tyler Moore show told viewers that
on the next show she would present a cure for "soap dish jelly". Some
viewers might still be waiting :-) Asking for a definitive article on
sealing oil leaks for any British car is, maybe, asking for the
unbelievable. You might be up to the challenge.
The cures for leaks have always been silicon glue and align boring the
crankshaft. Uncertain of faint memories, I did pick these techniques up
sometime, circa 1967, and likely from somebody at Myers Drake
Engineering in LA or from Speedomotive in Southgate, both Southern CA.
Since then I have applied both, glue with proper caution, and always
received excellent results. Still a few drops, but nothing like what has
been reported by others.
The beauty of a silicon sealant is that it flexes and moves with the
engine. Any sealant that hardens will again leak with time. I am
thinking the permatex you reference is like a silicon sealant.
I did forget to mention that on some Healeys the rear plate seals the
rear of the camshaft. I hear this is an area of high oil pressure. I
confirm this from my 100-4 manual. My 6 cylinder manual has long been
given away so I can not confirm this.
Best Regards,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M with few leaks.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Steve Gerow
Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2004 2:16 PM
To: Healeys
Subject: Oil Leak Blues
Not sure why sealing the bolts would make any difference on the back
plate.
As I recall none of them go thru into the crankcase (could be wrong abt
this).
I used a good quality motorcycle permatex betw engine & plate instead of
paper gasket, and my leakage is probably coming from the seal itself.
Doug Reid told me Hylomar is great for this sort of thing as well.
My car also leaks from the rear of the pan, as well as from the front
timing
cover and/or the front of the pan.
I had to trim the little cork blocks down to stuff them into their holes
and
I think it didn't take.
Has anyone tried silicone in here instead of the little blocks etc?
I'd certainly like to see a definitive article somewhere on how to seal
your
engine up so it won't leak!
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 11:23:23 -0800
Subject: Re: leaks
> From: Howell Kent Lacy <h.k.lacy@att.net>
> Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 13:20:23 -0500
> To: sgerow@singular.com
> Subject: leaks
>
> Steve,
>
> You shouldn't have trimmed those cork seals. They are meant to
> be compressed when the pan is installed. If you took the bellhousing
> off the trans, those mounting bolts go thru into the oil and can leak.
> The rear center pan bolt also goes thru on the BN1 and BN2. not
> sure about yours. Originally there was a fibre washer on this bolt.
> There is always a leak if the pan gasket is overtightened. 1/12 to
> 2 lbs is enough here.
>
> Kent
From "DON HAMBRICK" <donham1 at cox.net>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 16:15:23 -0600
Subject: MGBS-MAILING LIST
DH
From <satkinson at attglobal.net>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 20:06:21 -0500
Subject: 1959 BT7
If anyone out there has done a body restoration on a BT7 please let me know if
you can help. I want to make sure that when I put the rest of the panels back
I have them in the correct place. I have yet to find any shop manual that
describes the placement of the inner panels. I'd be happy to email pictures to
anyone that can help.
Thanks for reading!
Simon Atkinson
1959 AH 3000 BT7
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 20:56:57 -0500
Subject: Re: 1959 BT7
We'll have that BT7 back on the road someday. Sounds like you've done a
whole lot of work already .
Good Luck, Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: <satkinson@attglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 13, 2004 8:06 PM
Subject: 1959 BT7
> I received a 1959 3000 BT7 from my father before he moved to Europe.
Currently
> the car is fully disassembled (he did a great job at labelling all the
parts)
> but I can't find any good documentation on how to replace the inner
panels. I
> just finsihed replacing the outriggers and adding the floor pans. Does
anyone
> have any information on how to go about re-installing the rear wheel
arches,
> trunk floor and door pillars? Unfortunately he trashed the old parts when
the
> new ones arrived and his note taking was not the best!
>
> If anyone out there has done a body restoration on a BT7 please let me
know if
> you can help. I want to make sure that when I put the rest of the panels
back
> I have them in the correct place. I have yet to find any shop manual that
> describes the placement of the inner panels. I'd be happy to email
pictures to
> anyone that can help.
>
> Thanks for reading!
>
> Simon Atkinson
> 1959 AH 3000 BT7
From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 23:21:11 EST
Subject: Re: 1959 BT7 photo sets
RESTORATION PHOTOGRAPH SETS
100-M....this car has just had a ground up restoration , the photos were
taken just before the engine was installed , shows interior , exterior ,
underhood and engine compartment .... 53 PICTURES - $ 35.00
BN2 . BN4 . BT7 . BJ7 ,these sets start with a freshly painted chassis to a
finished show quality car . there are close up shots of the bare chassis then
with the wiring and brake lines installed , location of relays , linkage ,
clips , interior upholstery , trunk area , external shots and much more .
BN2.... 110 pictures $66.00
BN4 .... 75 PICTURES - $ 45.00
BT7 .... 120 PICTURES - $ 72.00
BJ7 .... 90 PICTURES - $ 52.00
KILMARTIN'S NEW FRAME , 24 close up shots . BN4 - BJ7 -- $ 28.00
Add $4.00 S & H per set within the U.S Norman Nock
British Car Specialists 2060 N Wilson Way , Stockton , CA 95205
(209)948-8767 FAX # (209) 948 - 1030
From "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid at hotmail.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2004 04:53:21 +0000
Subject: Healey Business in PA
I vaguely recall glancing through some posts on this list about an
individual and/or a whole car-restoration business in Pennsylvania that
recently (maybe within the past couple of years or so) went out of business
and that there was something "suspect" about the whole deal (like maybe the
owner of the business took money without delivering the promised
restorations, or something like that).
Anyone with specifics, please contact me off list. It would be most helpful
to have the street address of the suspect business. (I have just received a
new ad for the club magazine and want to confirm that this isn't the same
person/business merely with a new business name.) Thanks. All responses
will be treated with confidentality.
Reid
Reid Trummel
Portland, Oregon
100, 100M, Bugeye, Ski-Master
_________________________________________________________________
Get some great ideas here for your sweetheart on Valentine's Day - and
beyond. http://special.msn.com/network/celebrateromance.armx
From Richard Gordon <HealeyHundred at comcast.net>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 22:04:01 -0700
Subject: Healey toys and models
Richard Gordon
Phone 303-756-7427 mountain time zone.
From "Allen Adams" <aadamsjr at earthlink.net>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 21:34:23 -0800
Subject: Wire Wheel Balancer
Al Adams
1963 BJ7
From "Ron Davies" <rdavies1 at cox.net>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 21:53:49 -0800
Subject: RE: Wire Wheel Balancer
_____________________________
Any California listers know of a wire wheel balancer in the Inland Empire,
High Desert or San Diego area who can correctly true and balance wire
wheels? Thanks.
Al Adams
1963 BJ7
From "Charles Braum" <cbaustin at verizon.net>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2004 08:23:35 -0500
Subject: BN-1 drive line
I just missed getting a spare engine that had been used on a rather large
log-splitter in northern Michigan and then scrapped. If they only knew.
Thanks,
C
B
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2004 07:13:03 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Used Parts Needed
Dean
BN7
--- Ken Stickle <kstickle@rochester.rr.com> wrote:
>
>
> A the Lower Moulding trim for the grille that
> fits...... Purchased one
> from Moss and it was just the wrong size (too long)
> and shaped wrong on
> the ends.
__________________________________
Yahoo! Finance: Get your refund fast by filing online.
http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html
From "Pamela & Joel Holmes" <holmes at mcn.org>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2004 07:17:18 -0800
Subject: Re: Wire Wheel Balancer
Cheers,
Joel Holmes
60 BT7
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Allen Adams" <aadamsjr@earthlink.net>; "Healeys"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 13, 2004 9:53 PM
Subject: RE: Wire Wheel Balancer
> Only one I've found is Valley Wire Wheels in Van Nuys and they will only
> true the wires and balance, they don't yet have the ability to true tires.
> That's why I've packaged up my wheels and will mail them to Hendrix Wire
> Wheel in NC tomorrow. Let me know if you find anyone local we can drive
to.
> www.hendrixwirewheel.com
> Ron
> 67 BJ8
>
> _____________________________
>
> Any California listers know of a wire wheel balancer in the Inland Empire,
> High Desert or San Diego area who can correctly true and balance wire
> wheels? Thanks.
>
> Al Adams
> 1963 BJ7
From "timothy bolish" <wt3w at enter.net>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2004 11:07:59 -0500
Subject: 100-4 BN1 Cam# and engine torque settings
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of
Blank Bkgrd.gif]
From "DON HAMBRICK" <donham1 at cox.net>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2004 10:27:36 -0600
Subject: MG Mailing List
From "James Shope" <healeymanjim at JoiMail.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2004 08:48:12 -0800
Subject: parts for sale
From Douglas W Flagg <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2004 12:45:30 -0500
Subject: Re: 100S Head & Judson Supercharger
Also, have been asked to make available an original 100S (bare) head with
intake manifolds
and carburetors. If interested in either please contact me off the list.
Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
'56 BN2
________________________________________________________________
The best thing to hit the Internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the Web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
From "Bill Browning" <gbrowning at carolina.rr.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2004 13:16:02 -0500
Subject: Re: 100S Head & Judson Supercharger
where should I inquire?
thanks
Bill B
Charlotte
704-408-2711
gbrowning@carolina.rr.com
From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2004 14:24:00 -0600
Subject: Non Healey MS Outlook Express trouble
From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2004 15:33:58 -0500
Subject: Stator tube installation
Thanks,
Mick Vander Ploeg
57 BN4
From DrBerkowitz at aol.com
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2004 16:11:57 EST
Subject: Nice !!!!!
From "Don Anglesey" <Don at anglesey.us>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2004 13:15:10 -0800
Subject: Wiper Motor BN4
From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2004 16:43:03 -0500
Subject: Flywheel tool.
http://www.msnusers.com/healeyguys/shoebox.msnw
James Lea
Rockport Maine
1962 BT7 II
From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2004 17:23:49 -0500
Subject: [OT] Re: Non Healey MS Outlook Express trouble
heh
> just noticed that the MS Outlook Express mail program is has been
> stripping off my incoming email attachments it appears fro the last week or
> so.it says the are 'unsafe". any ideas how to turn this 'feature'
> off
Are you sure it's not your ISP that's doing it? If something has changed, and
you didn't initiate it, that's the first place to look (unless you've applied
a Microsoft "update" recently).
--
John Miller
ex-expert
From "Classic-Car-World Ltd" <enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2004 22:30:21 -0000
Subject: Re: Non Healey MS Outlook Express trouble
Can you let me know which version of Outlook you are using and I can tell
you how to get round it.
How much do you know about editing the registry?
Regards
Tom
Tom McCay (AH 3000 BJ8)
Classic-Car-World Ltd
Tel: 01522 888178
Fax: 0870 7059115
E-mail: enquiries@classic-car-world.co.uk
URL: http://www.classic-car-world.co.uk
Now offering quality Sealey tools at discount prices, see
www.ccw-tools.co.uk for further details.
----- Original Message -----
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 14, 2004 8:24 PM
Subject: Non Healey MS Outlook Express trouble
> Hi experts,
> just noticed that the MS Outlook Express mail program is has been
stripping
> off my incoming email attachments it appears fro the last week or so.it
says
> the are 'unsafe". any ideas how to turn this 'feature' off.......MS
Sucks!!
> TIA,
> HoYo
From Ron Fine <RonFineEsq at earthlink.net>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2004 14:52:43 -0800
Subject: Heat Treating Crank
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2004 15:04:54 -0800
Subject: Re: Heat Treating Crank
On my 65 Spitfire I had the crank heat treated and all rotating parts
balanced. That little crank was only about a hundred bucks to heat
treat. I did it as part of a max engine build project. The whole
project paid off in terms of general satisfaction. That was one hot
performing and light weight street machine!
But as far as the real benefit of the heat treating, if you are mostly
driving in "preservation" mode, and not "abuse" mode, you probablay
don't need it. Heat treating has benefits when you run the engine to
extremes, where you have oil breakdown, high RPM, etc etc.
Will it make your engine last longer the way you drive it? Yes. But if
you do a good rebuild without heat treating you should get say, 150,000
miles with good care and no abuse. With heat treating, maybe 300,000
miles. At 3000 miles a year (average Healey use?) without heat treating
your engine will last 50 years! (a hundred year old Healey?) With heat
treating, 100 years! Gasoline won't even be around then. Maybe not
even in 50 years!
Now I know we all plan on driving our Healeys forever. But...How young
are we?
Just 2 cents worth of perspective with levity.
Brian N.
From "M Lempert" <mlempert at bellsouth.net>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2004 20:36:17 -0500
Subject: Exhaust Note
Certainly the noise level can measured in terms of decibels, but the note,
or tone, strikes me as a tad harder to define; then there are differing
opinions as to how loud the note should be. I'm interested in learning ,
as close as I can, what the consensus might be on proper loudness and tone
if we were able to come to one. Given the differing preferences, I'm aware
that determining "proper" is the challenge. Regardless, I'd love to hear
how people might go about quantifying their opinions.
So why do I ask ? Most of you associate me with the "Lempert rear end".
While I prefer "differential" to "rear end", (for obvious reasons) I'm
hoping to be known for more. Since retiring a handful of years ago, I've
been considering doing more Healey - and other general LBC - related
projects. I've been working on a few unique offerings, and am now starting
to look at exhaust systems. Should I engage in an exhaust project, I would
like to manufacture one that best meets the wants, needs, and desires of
our community.
While the concours answer might be the easiest - just make it like it was -
I'm more interested in what the majority might prefer an exhaust to be.
Myself, I would prefer one that provided a little extra ground clearance
while being a little louder than stock, while also maintaining a deep tone.
I do not yet know what the metrics are to define this. I'm thinking there
should also be a side exit option.
Whadaya think ?
Regards,
Mike L.
From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2004 21:55:49 -0500
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note
James Lea
Rockport Maine
1962 BT7 II
From "David" <dcrawfor at san.rr.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2004 07:22:39 -0800
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note
One of the things I liked best about my old 61 Austin Healey was driving
through the long tunnel between Walnut Creek and Oakland, California at about
65 miles per, [or faster] and letting off the throttle, car in 3rdthen peddle
to metalthen back off again. (Only did this very late at night when there was
little or no traffic.) How to describe the sound? A perfectly beautiful
musical note!
One might easily identify pitch, something not too difficult to do, because
the exhaust system, like a wind instrument, only changes tone slightly as the
volume of air passing through the tube increases. (And, the harder one blows,
or the faster the car is going, the louder the note!) How loud? How fast? At
what RPM?
I'm no engineer, but Im sure the specs on diameter and length of pipe are
well documented for determining wavelengths of tone. There are portable
instruments designed for identifying tone and decibel. Pack one along in your
car and see what you got. Record it. Make a .WAV file and post it somewhere
listers can access and play it. Let them comment on what you recorded.
Yep. A very subjective topic, but also very interesting. Im curious what you
guys think. Me? Whatever was stock on that 61 Healey was pure ecstasy to my
ears!
David Crawford
54 BN1
----- Original Message -----
From: M Lempert
To: Healey List
Sent: Saturday, February 14, 2004 5:36 PM
Subject: Exhaust Note
Hi folks. The exhaust subject has come up a number of times and while
usually addressing the system itself, it ultimately gets into varying
opinions regarding "proper" sound. I've noted the comments, but it always
struck me as something that was very subjective.
Certainly the noise level can measured in terms of decibels, but the note,
or tone, strikes me as a tad harder to define; then there are differing
opinions as to how loud the note should be. I'm interested in learning ,
as close as I can, what the consensus might be on proper loudness and tone
if we were able to come to one. Given the differing preferences, I'm
aware
that determining "proper" is the challenge. Regardless, I'd love to hear
how people might go about quantifying their opinions.
So why do I ask ? Most of you associate me with the "Lempert rear end".
While I prefer "differential" to "rear end", (for obvious reasons) I'm
hoping to be known for more. Since retiring a handful of years ago, I've
been considering doing more Healey - and other general LBC - related
projects. I've been working on a few unique offerings, and am now
starting
to look at exhaust systems. Should I engage in an exhaust project, I
would
like to manufacture one that best meets the wants, needs, and desires of
our community.
While the concours answer might be the easiest - just make it like it was -
I'm more interested in what the majority might prefer an exhaust to be.
Myself, I would prefer one that provided a little extra ground clearance
while being a little louder than stock, while also maintaining a deep
tone.
I do not yet know what the metrics are to define this. I'm thinking there
should also be a side exit option.
Whadaya think ?
Regards,
Mike L.
From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2004 22:36:49 EST
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note
Other fun tunnels - (1) Broadway in SF (where an irate citizen once threw a
broom at the car from above, after what was, I suppose, too many laps, and (2)
The little one-way tunnel under US101 going out to the Marin headlands -
unbelievable roar with my (at the time) side exhaust!
Dick Hosmer
59BN7 (gone but NOT forgotten)
62BT7 (undergoing some TLC)
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2004 19:42:29 -0800
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note
::Certainly the noise level can measured in terms of decibels, but the note,
::or tone, strikes me as a tad harder to define; then there are differing
::opinions as to how loud the note should be. I'm interested in learning ,
::as close as I can, what the consensus might be on proper loudness and tone
::if we were able to come to one. Given the differing preferences, I'm aware
::that determining "proper" is the challenge. Regardless, I'd love to hear
::how people might go about quantifying their opinions.
::
::Since retiring a handful of years ago, I've
::been considering doing more Healey - and other general LBC - related
::projects. I've been working on a few unique offerings, and am now starting
::to look at exhaust systems. Should I engage in an exhaust project, I would
::like to manufacture one that best meets the wants, needs, and desires of
::our community.
::
::While the concours answer might be the easiest - just make it like it was -
::I'm more interested in what the majority might prefer an exhaust to be.
::Myself, I would prefer one that provided a little extra ground clearance
::while being a little louder than stock, while also maintaining a deep tone.
::I do not yet know what the metrics are to define this. I'm thinking there
::should also be a side exit option.
Mike-
You're just talking about the sixes, right?
Maybe I am in the minority, but on long (more than half an hour)
cruises at highway speeds I wear earplugs because of the sound level.
Part of that is the tires of the SUVs and semis going by or being
passed, but part is the Healey's note. At least on our BJ7 there is a
resonant range, somewhere between 2600 and 3100 rpm where the exhaust
has a sharp blat to it. The blat has a lot of higher frequency sound
to it. To me that is punishing on daylong trips. I have replaced
the muffler with a NOS 30+ year old heavyweight, but the sound remains
the same. So I cruise when possible at engine speeds above resonance.
On southern Calif. freeways that is no problem because everyone
cruises at 80+ and the Healey sound at 3500 to 4000 rpm is just fine.
So I would vote for an exhaust system that doesn't blat around 3000
rpm, even if it is fun to hear it for the first few minutes. I have
enough problem with hearing loss without accelerating the process.
And I wouldn't object to a bit of quieting of the higher frequencies
throughout the rpm range.
BJ8 exhaust systems have an extra muffler and maybe the BJ8 drivers
pine for a bit more pizzaz in the exhaust note. So maybe you will
need to build two setups. And then there's the BN4s with two in and
one out, or is it the other way?
More ground clearance? Absolutely desirable if you can do it. At
least with the pipes I have, a whole lot of improvement could be made
with better bends to raise the pipes up in the first foot or two
behind the muffler. It irritates me every time I look under the car
and see those pipes hanging an inch or two lower than needed.
-Roland
BJ7, BN1
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2004 19:42:02 -0800
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note
My BN7 MK2 has a Falcon stainless steel system. When I first started it, it
was too quiet. After driving it to HR2003 at Eureka, CA last summer, it
mellowed out, and was getting compliments on the "good sound". It sounds
like I think a big Healey should sound...and others think so too.
My BT7 MK2 has a mild steel system from Mxxx. Aside from the fact that the
down pipes from the manifold did not even come close to fitting into the
muffler, when I first started it, it sounded like a UPS truck w/ a bad
muffler. after 1500 miles, either I'm getting used to it, or it is also
starting to mellow out. I still think it is too loud, and has a nasty rapp
at 2900 RPM.
Don't know if this helps...just my thoughts. Oh, I also have a 1960 BT7 w/
a Mxxx mild steel exhaust system that sounds great. Have about 40,000 miles
on that system. Maybe the solution is to drive the car until it sounds
good, or your ears go bad :-).
John Snyder
> Hi folks. The exhaust subject has come up a number of times and while
> usually addressing the system itself, it ultimately gets into varying
> opinions regarding "proper" sound. I've noted the comments, but it
always
> struck me as something that was very subjective.
>
> Certainly the noise level can measured in terms of decibels, but the
note,
> or tone, strikes me as a tad harder to define; then there are differing
> opinions as to how loud the note should be. I'm interested in learning ,
> as close as I can, what the consensus might be on proper loudness and
tone
> if we were able to come to one. Given the differing preferences, I'm
aware
> that determining "proper" is the challenge. Regardless, I'd love to hear
> how people might go about quantifying their opinions.
>
> So why do I ask ? Most of you associate me with the "Lempert rear end".
> While I prefer "differential" to "rear end", (for obvious reasons) I'm
> hoping to be known for more. Since retiring a handful of years ago, I've
> been considering doing more Healey - and other general LBC - related
> projects. I've been working on a few unique offerings, and am now
starting
> to look at exhaust systems. Should I engage in an exhaust project, I
would
> like to manufacture one that best meets the wants, needs, and desires of
> our community.
>
> While the concours answer might be the easiest - just make it like it
was -
> I'm more interested in what the majority might prefer an exhaust to be.
> Myself, I would prefer one that provided a little extra ground clearance
> while being a little louder than stock, while also maintaining a deep
tone.
> I do not yet know what the metrics are to define this. I'm thinking there
> should also be a side exit option.
>
> Whadaya think ?
From "David" <dcrawfor at san.rr.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2004 07:49:31 -0800
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note
Oh yeah!
(My brain asleep?) I meant to add that there are other things to consider,
such as harmonics (high and low) that can be created with two pipes, reverb,
and backpressure from the muffler (muting), things that also influence tone.
As to loudness, I still think that's getting very subjective. And for sure, as
you suggested, do what ever you can to design something that offers better
road clearance.
This is making me want to hear what my BN1 will sound like when I get her back
on the road.
David Crawford
----- Original Message -----
From: RAHosmer@aol.com
To: dcrawfor@san.rr.com ; mlempert@bellsouth.net ; healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Saturday, February 14, 2004 7:36 PM
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note
That brings back fond memories of a LOT of late-nite returns to San
Francisco
after an NCSCC rally in the Concord area!
Other fun tunnels - (1) Broadway in SF (where an irate citizen once threw a
broom at the car from above, after what was, I suppose, too many laps, and
(2)
The little one-way tunnel under US101 going out to the Marin headlands -
unbelievable roar with my (at the time) side exhaust!
Dick Hosmer
59BN7 (gone but NOT forgotten)
62BT7 (undergoing some TLC)
From James Sailer <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2004 20:57:14 -0700
Subject: Trans change was easy
I guess I forgot how easy this was to remove/install a trans ... a rolling
floor jack (my cherry picker just got int he way and was no use)... a couple
of pieces of cardboard .... a couple of Fat Tire Ales... and 3.5 hours and
my new trans was installed...
Thanks for the wisdom along the way...
Jim Sailer 66 BJ8.. to be down on her wheels this week.... (but off to Grand
Targhee to get some powder for the day tomorrow...and maybe Jackson Monday)
From MBran89793 at aol.com
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2004 23:22:48 EST
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
2696 66th Terrace South
St. Petersburg, FL 33712
727/867-7129
From John Peak <redbn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2004 20:35:32 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note
Great topic! The exhaust note has always been a big
factor in my enjoyment of the cars I have owned. It
is definitely one of the things that drew me to the
big Healeys.
First on my wish list would be and exhaust system that
actually FIT! I recently installed a system purchased
from VB. Did they even try to install it on a car
before going into production? The system required so
much modification just to get it to fit together that
I would have been better off having a system custom
made. Second would be better ground clearance, though
if the system fit properly this might not be such a
big issue.
As for the exhaust note the stock system sounds great,
though I would be curious to hear what effect a
slightly larger diameter pipe bore would have on it.
The 1 1/4" tailpipes seem rather small. One thing I
have always liked about the Healey is the way the
pipes exit. The twin up-swept pipes cut off at an
angle just look right to me.
John
'59 BN7
-
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: M Lempert
> To: Healey List
> Sent: Saturday, February 14, 2004 5:36 PM
> Subject: Exhaust Note
>
>
> Hi folks. The exhaust subject has come up a
> number of times and while
> usually addressing the system itself, it
> ultimately gets into varying
> opinions regarding "proper" sound. I've noted the
> comments, but it always
> struck me as something that was very subjective.
>
> Certainly the noise level can measured in terms of
> decibels, but the note,
> or tone, strikes me as a tad harder to define;
> then there are differing
> opinions as to how loud the note should be. I'm
> interested in learning ,
> as close as I can, what the consensus might be on
> proper loudness and tone
> if we were able to come to one. Given the
> differing preferences, I'm
> aware
> that determining "proper" is the challenge.
> Regardless, I'd love to hear
> how people might go about quantifying their
> opinions.
>
> So why do I ask ? Most of you associate me with
> the "Lempert rear end".
> While I prefer "differential" to "rear end", (for
> obvious reasons) I'm
> hoping to be known for more. Since retiring a
> handful of years ago, I've
> been considering doing more Healey - and other
> general LBC - related
> projects. I've been working on a few unique
> offerings, and am now
> starting
> to look at exhaust systems. Should I engage in an
> exhaust project, I
> would
> like to manufacture one that best meets the wants,
> needs, and desires of
> our community.
>
> While the concours answer might be the easiest -
> just make it like it was -
> I'm more interested in what the majority might
> prefer an exhaust to be.
> Myself, I would prefer one that provided a little
> extra ground clearance
> while being a little louder than stock, while
> also maintaining a deep
> tone.
> I do not yet know what the metrics are to define
> this. I'm thinking there
> should also be a side exit option.
>
> Whadaya think ?
>
> Regards,
> Mike L.
__________________________________
Yahoo! Finance: Get your refund fast by filing online.
http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html
From "Michael Shepard" <shepard7107 at msn.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2004 23:45:54 -0500
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note
From Ron Fine <RonFineEsq at earthlink.net>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2004 21:07:12 -0800
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note
From JH67HEALEY at aol.com
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2004 00:18:06 EST
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note
I have now a 1967 BJ-8 with the original style exshaust, and a 1962 tri-carb
2-seater with a Monza (PO) nice throaty sound but...... I'll apologize now to
those who know me !!!!.... and my Healeys....but I prefer the original sounds
the way Donald and Geoff and Roger all meant them to sound, there is nothing
like that sound of an Austin Healey even today. Amazing to...the Healey
SportsBoat sounds just like a Healey too !!!
Regards,
John S. Hunt
1953 Nash Healey LeMans Coupe
1958 Healey SportsBoat Model-55
1962 3000-BN-7 MK-II Tri-Carb 2-Seater
1967 3000 BJ-8 MK-III-Phase-II
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2004 00:22:15 -0500
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note
From "John Soderling" <jsoderling at astound.net>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2004 21:46:57 -0800
Subject: Re: Stator tube installation
First try having a friend push the steering wheel and stator tube in as you
use the guide the stator tube through the steering box lower end using the
wiring harness to move the tube up or down and side to side. After
starting the steering wheel and stator tube in the steering column, I
believe I actually pulled the whole assembly in through the steering box by
pulling on the wiring harness from infront of the steering box (I had
previously attached a fine wire to my old wiring harness before I pulled the
steering wheel and old stator tube up through the steering column. The fine
wire was then attached to the new wiring harness that runs down inside the
stator tube before inserting it into the steering column. This allowed me to
pull the new wiring harness through the steering box ahead of the stator
tube).
If you can't do it this way, then consider this. Maybe your stator tube is
some how getting pushed too far up on the short tube attached to the
trafficator making it to short to come all the way through the bottom of the
steering box - they slide on each other to allow the adjustable steering
wheel to slide in and out. The portion of the tubes that overlap have a
slot in one and a key in the other that slides in the slot (this is so they
will not turn independent of each other). To prevent the stator tube from
sliding up too far on the short trafficator tube and thus becoming too short
to reach the lower end of the steering box, maybe you could slightly pinch
the end of the slot so as to bind the key and prevent the two tubes from
telescoping together too much before the stator tube extends through the
steering box.
Kind of long. Hope this makes sense.
Vrooom vrooom,
John
100-Six Erika the Red
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 14, 2004 12:33 PM
Subject: Stator tube installation
> I'm trying to install the stator tube and trafficator on BN4 with an
> adjustable steering wheel. How do you get the lower stator tube through
the
> opening in the bottom of the steering box? The steering wheel is adjusted
all
> the way down on the steering column, and the trafficator/upper stator tube
> assembly is pushed all the way onto the steering wheel, but the lower tube
is
> still not extending out of the steering box. What's the secret?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mick Vander Ploeg
> 57 BN4
From <Ian.Harrison at csiro.au>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2004 17:15:26 +1100
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note
an interesting subjective comparison with contemporary car exhaust sound
compared to our older cars is the length of the pipes from the muffler and the
resulting tonal qualities.
Modern cars have very short tail pipes with mufflers close to the rear of the
cars, the result seems to be a hollow gutless sound without the rich tones and
harmonics that the old cars have, particularly Healeys.
With two narrow pipes as the Healeys have, the sound seems to resonate up the
pipes gaining tone and volume as travels up the pipe, it seems that when the
pipe diameter is enlarged the tone flattens out as the pressure of the exhaust
gasses is lessoned with the larger pipes. It seems that the principals of organ
pipes is usable here, longer = lower frequency and somewhere the pipe diameter
influences the resonance and harmonics, the sometimes annoying and sometimes
fantastic crackle, at a particular road and engine speed.
In older times some folk used to use copper pipe which seemed to enhance the
crackle effect for some reason
Cheers
Ian, BN4, Oz
From "Lynda Lawrence" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2004 23:22:31 -0700
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note
Since you are thinking about investing in something new, why be
conventional?
How about a system consisting of one or two straight pipes sized and
tuned to give the greatest gas flow characteristics at the widest
possible RPM range combined with an electronic noise cancellation
system to control the sound.
You could offer a full race, ear-bleeding cacophony or a Rolls-Royce
quality of silence with the mere flip of a switch. You could run the
signal through a graphic equalizer and allow the driver to tailor the
sound to his own tastes.
You could eliminate the muffler, which always seems to drag and make it
a side exit system, which will allow you to run the pipes closer to the
bottom of the car and further from the road.
Furthermore you could offer performance uncompromised by the resistance
caused by unnecessary piping and mufflers...
Next we need to discuss new methods of mining Di-lithium crystals on
Pluto.
Bill Lawrence
PS: Any news on the second generation gearsets?
On Feb 14, 2004, at 6:36 PM, M Lempert wrote:
> Hi folks. The exhaust subject has come up a number of times and while
> usually addressing the system itself, it ultimately gets into varying
> opinions regarding "proper" sound. I've noted the comments, but it
> always
> struck me as something that was very subjective.
>
> Certainly the noise level can measured in terms of decibels, but the
> note,
> or tone, strikes me as a tad harder to define; then there are
> differing
> opinions as to how loud the note should be. I'm interested in
> learning ,
> as close as I can, what the consensus might be on proper loudness and
> tone
> if we were able to come to one. Given the differing preferences, I'm
> aware
> that determining "proper" is the challenge. Regardless, I'd love to
> hear
> how people might go about quantifying their opinions.
>
> So why do I ask ? Most of you associate me with the "Lempert rear
> end".
> While I prefer "differential" to "rear end", (for obvious reasons) I'm
> hoping to be known for more. Since retiring a handful of years ago,
> I've
> been considering doing more Healey - and other general LBC - related
> projects. I've been working on a few unique offerings, and am now
> starting
> to look at exhaust systems. Should I engage in an exhaust project, I
> would
> like to manufacture one that best meets the wants, needs, and
> desires of
> our community.
>
> While the concours answer might be the easiest - just make it like it
> was -
> I'm more interested in what the majority might prefer an exhaust to be.
> Myself, I would prefer one that provided a little extra ground
> clearance
> while being a little louder than stock, while also maintaining a deep
> tone.
> I do not yet know what the metrics are to define this. I'm thinking
> there
> should also be a side exit option.
>
> Whadaya think ?
>
> Regards,
> Mike L.
From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2004 02:47:02 EST
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note
The physics involved are pretty simple, bigger pipes make a lower note. The
flat cut tips can make more "blat" noise, softer agled cuts reduce that effect.
resonantor tips like the Monza systems all but remove that effect. The Monza
systems offer a smooth thick round tone that has less backpressure, increasing
horsepower.
As for making a side exit, a simple clamp on muff-back pipe set makes that a
snap. My Monza system was shipped by Moss cut in two so there are clamps right
behind the muffler. Side exit pipes can be clamped on in their stead.
Rick
San Diego
Monza shown at my site: members.aol.com/wilko - click the muffler pic at the
bottom of the page.
From "Kurt Leslie" <kansl at net1plus.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2004 07:31:59 -0500
Subject: 62bt7
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2004 08:42:31 -0500
Subject: Re: Trans change was easy
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 14, 2004 10:57 PM
Subject: Trans change was easy
> Greeting all...
>
> I guess I forgot how easy this was to remove/install a trans ... a
rolling
> floor jack (my cherry picker just got int he way and was no use)... a
couple
> of pieces of cardboard .... a couple of Fat Tire Ales... and 3.5 hours and
> my new trans was installed...
>
> Thanks for the wisdom along the way...
>
> Jim Sailer 66 BJ8.. to be down on her wheels this week.... (but off to
Grand
> Targhee to get some powder for the day tomorrow...and maybe Jackson
Monday)
From =?iso-8859-1?q?Paul=20Baker?= <paulbaker51 at yahoo.co.uk>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2004 15:02:31 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: How to reduce exhaust noise levels
So what else can be done to reduce the level of noise generated by modified
Healeys?
Paul
66 BJ8 rally spec
67 BJ8
---------------------------------
BT Yahoo! Broadband - Free modem offer, sign up online today and save #80
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2004 07:31:09 -0800
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note--car alarms!
On another LBC I installed a Monza system which included the long main
muffler (straight through) and four tail pipe resonators. On car #2 of
the same model, I had a local shop fabricate the system using one small
glass pack, but ran it in the correct route which meant a few sharp
bends. This car was actually quieter with a bit than car #1. Actually
sounder better. I was told that the number of sharp bends in the system
has a big effect.
Car #1 would reliably set of car alarms driving through parking lots!
It got to be a fun game, actually.
Haven't had the Healey long enough to try that yet.
Brian N.
1960 BT7
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2004 07:42:09 -0800
Subject: Re: Trans change was easy--cardboard, fat tire
Fat tire? Drank one last night with dinner at Britania Arms Pub in
Aptos, CA.
Cheers.
Brian
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2004 10:48:49 -0500
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note
Interesting points. Seems to me about 1 year ago Keith Turk or someone
posted some specifics and/or math relationships on this kind of thing.
Anyone remember details or have the email?
Keith Pennell
> Hi all,
>
> an interesting subjective comparison with contemporary car exhaust sound
compared to our older cars is the length of the pipes from the muffler and
the resulting tonal qualities.
>
> Modern cars have very short tail pipes with mufflers close to the rear of
the cars, the result seems to be a hollow gutless sound without the rich
tones and harmonics that the old cars have, particularly Healeys.
>
> With two narrow pipes as the Healeys have, the sound seems to resonate up
the pipes gaining tone and volume as travels up the pipe, it seems that when
the pipe diameter is enlarged the tone flattens out as the pressure of the
exhaust gasses is lessoned with the larger pipes. It seems that the
principals of organ pipes is usable here, longer = lower frequency and
somewhere the pipe diameter influences the resonance and harmonics, the
sometimes annoying and sometimes fantastic crackle, at a particular road and
engine speed.
>
> In older times some folk used to use copper pipe which seemed to enhance
the crackle effect for some reason
>
> Cheers
>
> Ian, BN4, Oz
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2004 07:54:24 -0800
Subject: Brake Hose Part # ID needed
Does anyone know the applications for these? If they are not suitable
for my BT7 Healey I would like to eBay them away, but need the proper
application information if possible.
These sort of parts hanging around are the result of having too many
LBC's over the years.
Any help is appreciated.
Brian N.
From Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2004 11:15:41 -0500
Subject: cams
From MBran89793 at aol.com
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2004 11:22:55 EST
Subject: Re: Brake Hose Part # ID needed
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
727/867-7129
Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club
Membership Chairman
From "James Shope" <healeymanjim at JoiMail.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2004 08:54:23 -0800
Subject: parts
From "James Shope" <healeymanjim at JoiMail.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2004 08:50:40 -0800
Subject: exhaust sounds
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2004 09:25:27 -0800
Subject: Re: cork
> From: Howell Kent Lacy <h.k.lacy@att.net>
> Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2004 11:56:30 -0500
> To: sgerow@singular.com
> Subject: cork
>
> Soak the seals in light oil. CRC or something similar. Push them in the
> holes
> with a screwing motion as far as you can. A light tap might help. Then
> install
> the pan which will compress the seals as you tighten the bolts. Be sure
> you
> have all the old material out of the holes.
>
> Kent
From Russ Staub <bbb11489 at azboss.net>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2004 10:38:29 -0700
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note
So it is with certain sounds, I suppose. My first Healey was a brand
new '64 BJ8 in Columbus, Ohio. As a young kid, I remember being really
impressed with the sound of that car, with its stock, as purchased
exhaust system. After numerous unfortunate encounters with my drive-way
entrance, the stock exhaust started to come apart and I installed a new
sytem. I don't know where I got it, or who steered me to it (probably
one of my sportscar room-mates at the time), but the exhaust I installed
was a mild steel Abarth system (manufactured for the Healey by Abarth,
not for an Abarth car). There can be nothing but subjectivity here, but
my memories of that deep, melodius (but not loud) note from that Abarth
system was noticeably even more pleasing to my ears than the stock system.
I have often wondered if such a system might still be found, but have
never found anyone who ever remembered or had a similar exhaust on their
Healey. Pleasant memories, anyways.
Regards,
Russ Staub
'61 Bugeye
'56 BN2
'67 BJ8
Mesa, AZ
M Lempert wrote:
>Hi folks. The exhaust subject has come up a number of times and while
>usually addressing the system itself, it ultimately gets into varying
>opinions regarding "proper" sound.
From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2004 12:40:50 -0500
Subject: Re: exhaust sounds
Has anyone ever been able to get their Healey to sound like an XKE? I never
was able to.
--
John Miller
Atlanta
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sasktel.net>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2004 11:59:11 -0600
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note
Would like to participate but after being kicked out of the grade three choir
for being way off key and out of phase - all I can say is I love the sound
of my BJ8 what ever it is! I have observed of the three cars here a BN7,
BT7 and my BJ8 that there appears to be a different note in each as they
go up through the gears.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
www.vintage-sportscar-touring.ca
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2004 09:59:32 -0800
Subject: Re: 62bt7
Connecting Rod Screws - 600 lb. in.
Main Bearings - 900 lb. in.
Crank Journal - 2.3742 to 2.3747 in.
Main Bearings - 1.495 to 1.505, clearance .0013 to .0028
Crankpin - 2.000 to 2.0005
Terry Blubaugh
Diamond Bar, CA
Kurt Leslie wrote:
>Saw e-mail today regarding torque settings, my service manual also sadly
>lacking in same. Main bearing cap settings listed
>But no connecting rod specs, crank measurement specs also lacking,
>excepting out of round measurements.If someome could post this info it
>would be greatly appreciated. I also need to locate a pinion assembly
>for the speedometer on a bt7 overdrive n/a in parts cat. Any detailed
>info on steering wheel and tube removal would be greatly appreciated.
>There actually appears to be light at the end of the tunnel Kurt L.
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2004 10:08:45 -0800
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note
My friend has the Moss mild steel setup, which appears to have the same
muffler as mine, but with the stock 1-1/4" pipes--it is noticably quieter
than mine. It sounds very nice.
My original muffler, not a glasspack, must not be a Burgess, as it is oval
in section, very heavy gauge metal with straight-thru tubes with spiral
louvers down their length. I'd swear it was quite a bit quieter than my
current setup. I'm considering reinstalling it in place of the glasspack.
What no one here has said is what the Denis Welch system sounds like. Their
catalog specifically says they use mild steel because it sounds better. I
can't for the life of me see why stainless matters--it the steel is thick
enough, it'll take till after we're all dead for it to rot through anyway.
It seems to me 2 systems are needed--one for the roadsters and one for the
convertibles. The convertibles being more civilized and the roadsters being
more "in your face".
1-1/2" pipes are all you're going to get thru the frame cutout without
opening that up.
There's enough room under the floor for a wider, flatter muffler to keep it
higher off the ground. A Borla-style all-metal muffler would be the way to
go--less raspy than these glasspacks. Vroom-vroom.
A metal heat shield between the muffler and the stock asbestos heat shield
would be desirable as well.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2004 13:28:39 EST
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note
> What no one here has said is what the Denis Welch system sounds like.
I have the big-bore DW exhaust in conjunction with his aluminum head in stage
two (fast street) tune--I opted for the side-exit just in front of the rear
wheel. The sound is deep, brash and loud.
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
From N0040 at aol.com
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2004 14:03:16 EST
Subject: Re: Non Healey MS Outlook Express trouble
I have OutlookExpress 6. The attachments are probably still there but OE may
prevent you from seeing them.
Go to "Tools" - "Options" - "Security" and see what is check or not checked.
If you security setting is "Restricted" or "Don't open attachments that could
contain viruses" try unchecking them or changing security level to less
secure.
Then see if the attachments are still there to read.
Good Luck - I sure agree with your Microsoft comments. I believe if I could
recover every minute spent during unnecessary reboots over the years, I could
do a frame up restoration on my BJ8.
Regards,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2004 09:33:03 -0700
Subject: Re: Brake Hose Part # ID needed
The Moss catalog lists 021-162 as front brake hose for BN7, BT7, BJ7,
BJ8. Not terribly hard to look up.
Dave Russell
Brian N wrote:
> On my shelf are two new AP Lockheed brake hoses. The box says LH1658.
> There is what appears to be a Moss sticker also, with number 021-162 and
> GHP26.
>
> Does anyone know the applications for these?
From John Harper <AH at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2004 18:21:49 +0000
Subject: Re: Brake Hose Part # ID needed
The only number I can find is GHP26 in a 1984 Unipart parts list. This
is listed as Girling part number. It equates to Unipart GBH135. The
only vehicle listed that uses this as a Front Hose is a A-H 3000 Mk II,
Mk III - 1961-68.
All the best
>On my shelf are two new AP Lockheed brake hoses. The box says LH1658.
>There is what appears to be a Moss sticker also, with number 021-162
>and GHP26.
>
>Does anyone know the applications for these? If they are not suitable
>for my BT7 Healey I would like to eBay them away, but need the proper
>application information if possible.
>
>These sort of parts hanging around are the result of having too many
>LBC's over the years.
>
>Any help is appreciated.
>
>Brian N.
>
--
John Harper
From APPRAISE11 at aol.com
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2004 15:39:59 EST
Subject: exhaust sounds
just repalced my old exhaust with a new stainless steel one. left resonators
on. it did mellow the sound out abit but still sounds awsome. my neighbors
know its me coming around the block.
mitch
63 bj7
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2004 12:49:44 -0800
Subject: Re: Brake Hose Part # ID needed
Thanks much. This really narrows it down. Maybe Moss was using it for
Spitfire and a broader range of AH applications than originally intended
by the mfgr.
Brian
> The only number I can find is GHP26 in a 1984 Unipart parts list. This is
>listed as Girling part number. It equates to Unipart GBH135. The only vehicle
>listed that uses this as a Front Hose is a A-H 3000 Mk II, Mk III - 1961-68.
From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2004 16:19:08 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8 trans removal
James Lea
Rockport Maine
1962 BT7 II
From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2004 16:00:34 -0600
Subject: Re: exhaust sounds, Healey and XKE
better and louder than the E.
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
63 BJ-7
>
> Has anyone ever been able to get their Healey to sound like an XKE? I never
>
> was able to.
> --
> John Miller
> Atlanta
From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2004 17:18:20 -0500
Subject: Re: exhaust sounds, Healey and XKE
And I don't disagree, but that's kind of the heart of the problem: the E just
purrs -- super smooth. Always (in the '60s) wanted my BJ8 to sound just like
that, but it was a little "rowdier," not that that's bad :-).
--
John Miller
Atlanta
From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2004 17:27:59 -0500
Subject: Re: Stator tube installation
Now, if only I can get my turn signals working.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Soderling" <jsoderling@astound.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 15, 2004 12:46 AM
Subject: Re: Stator tube installation
> Mick,
> A couple of year ago I installed a new trafficator and stator tube in my
> adjustable steering BN4. It went in with no problem.
>
> First try having a friend push the steering wheel and stator tube in as
you
> use the guide the stator tube through the steering box lower end using the
> wiring harness to move the tube up or down and side to side. After
> starting the steering wheel and stator tube in the steering column, I
> believe I actually pulled the whole assembly in through the steering box
by
> pulling on the wiring harness from infront of the steering box (I had
> previously attached a fine wire to my old wiring harness before I pulled
the
> steering wheel and old stator tube up through the steering column. The
fine
> wire was then attached to the new wiring harness that runs down inside the
> stator tube before inserting it into the steering column. This allowed me
to
> pull the new wiring harness through the steering box ahead of the stator
> tube).
>
> If you can't do it this way, then consider this. Maybe your stator tube
is
> some how getting pushed too far up on the short tube attached to the
> trafficator making it to short to come all the way through the bottom of
the
> steering box - they slide on each other to allow the adjustable steering
> wheel to slide in and out. The portion of the tubes that overlap have a
> slot in one and a key in the other that slides in the slot (this is so
they
> will not turn independent of each other). To prevent the stator tube from
> sliding up too far on the short trafficator tube and thus becoming too
short
> to reach the lower end of the steering box, maybe you could slightly pinch
> the end of the slot so as to bind the key and prevent the two tubes from
> telescoping together too much before the stator tube extends through the
> steering box.
>
> Kind of long. Hope this makes sense.
>
> Vrooom vrooom,
> John
> 100-Six Erika the Red
>
> From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, February 14, 2004 12:33 PM
> Subject: Stator tube installation
>
>
> > I'm trying to install the stator tube and trafficator on BN4 with an
> > adjustable steering wheel. How do you get the lower stator tube through
> the
> > opening in the bottom of the steering box? The steering wheel is
adjusted
> all
> > the way down on the steering column, and the trafficator/upper stator
tube
> > assembly is pushed all the way onto the steering wheel, but the lower
tube
> is
> > still not extending out of the steering box. What's the secret?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Mick Vander Ploeg
> > 57 BN4
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2004 15:17:49 -0800
Subject: Whoa!! The book doesn't show it this way...
The balls and springs were all there but....
Check out this pic:
http://beachcitygas.com/ebp/txinrds.jpg
The lower shift fork, the reverse fork (illustration #84 on page 54 of
the new Moss catalog) does not have a hole in it like the actual one in
my car, which looks like a bolt or something is supposed to go there.
It is the right side hole in the lower bronze part.
The case is red, not healey green. Could this be a dutchman's pipe made
from some other Austin product? Anyone recognize this red case or the
different reverse fork? The workshop manual shows the same non-hole
fork as the Moss catalog.
If its non-Healey, I wonder what the ratios are? Will any of the
numbers on the case give me a clue?
I am inclined to leave the situation as is, since everything apparently
works OK. But from the looks of the fork, it definitely had a bolt in
the hole at one time.
Also, we cranked over the engine to rotate all the gears and everything
looked fine except form some minor chipping on the front of some of the
reverse/first teeth. Not bad for 40 years. My own teeth have more
chipping than this.
Everything else looked fine except for one thing...which I will make a
separate post about.
Brian N.
1960 BT7
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sasktel.net>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2004 17:26:33 -0600
Subject: A Response to "Nice !!!"
For those like me in the northern part of North America
who can't yet get out and have their Healey fix, I've
revised my web site - so there may be a tour on it
that will offset for a nano second the sound of the
Healey through the gears and the smells that go with it -
a poor subsitute but.........
http://www.vintage-sportscar-touring.ca give it a
look.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
P.S. about eight weeks before driving season #2&!*@!
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2004 15:28:03 -0800
Subject: A whole to meaning for the term "Ground Up" restoration
http://beachcitygas.com/ebp/txinrds.jpg
When I bought the car, shifting gears was like rowing a boat without oar
locks. Mike, at BCS in Stockton, identified the problem immediately and
sold me a very nice bushing for the end of the shift lever. Wow! It
installed with perfect ease and cured the problem completely. Later we
both mused about what happened to the prior bushing that went missing.
Now we know! Or at least we know half the story.
The other half seems to have gotten ground up in the transmission
(ouch!) and sits in a big bronze smear of chips all over the blue towel
in the picture.
So I guess this is what is meant by "ground up" restoration?
Brian N.
PS--David Knock, show this pic to Mike. He will get a good laugh!
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2004 15:29:31 -0800
Subject: A whole new meaning for the term "Ground Up" restoration
http://beachcitygas.com/ebp/txinrds.jpg
When I bought the car, shifting gears was like rowing a boat without oar
locks. Mike, at BCS in Stockton, identified the problem immediately and
sold me a very nice bushing for the end of the shift lever. Wow! It
installed with perfect ease and cured the problem completely. Later we
both mused about what happened to the prior bushing that went missing.
Now we know! Or at least we know half the story.
The other half seems to have gotten ground up in the transmission
(ouch!) and sits in a big bronze smear of chips all over the blue towel
in the picture.
So I guess this is what is meant by "ground up" restoration?
Brian N.
PS--David Knock, show this pic to Mike. He will get a good laugh!
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2004 15:32:40 -0800
Subject: A whole new meaning for the term "Ground Up" restoration
http://beachcitygas.com/ebp/grndup.jpg
When I bought the car, shifting gears was like rowing a boat without oar
locks. Mike, at BCS in Stockton, identified the problem immediately and
sold me a very nice bushing for the end of the shift lever. Wow! It
installed with perfect ease and cured the problem completely. Later we
both mused about what happened to the prior bushing that went missing.
Now we know! Or at least we know half the story.
The other half seems to have gotten ground up in the transmission
(ouch!) and sits in a big bronze smear of chips all over the blue towel
in the picture.
So I guess this is what is meant by "ground up" restoration?
Brian N.
PS--David Knock, show this pic to Mike. He will get a good laugh!
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2004 18:46:36 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8 trans removal
Keith Pennell
>I have decided not
> to lighten the flywheel after all. I don't plan on racing and I am sure
Donald
> made it that way for a reason. Thanks, JL
>
> James Lea
> Rockport Maine
> 1962 BT7 II
From "Len and/or Marge" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2004 16:10:13 -0800
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA
1967 3000 MKIII HBJ8L39031
> [Original Message]
> From: Russ Staub <bbb11489@azboss.net>
> To: M Lempert <mlempert@bellsouth.net>
> Cc: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 2/15/2004 9:35:29 AM
> Subject: Re: Exhaust Note
>
> I have often wondered if such a system might still be found, but have
> never found anyone who ever remembered or had a similar exhaust on their
> Healey. Pleasant memories, anyways.
>
> Regards,
>
> Russ Staub
> '61 Bugeye
> '56 BN2
> '67 BJ8
> Mesa, AZ
From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2004 19:37:34 EST
Subject: Re: Stator tube installation
Tech Talk for 2004 now has 231 pages an increase of 10 page . The new
subjects are:---
* Starter bendix * Spark advance & retarding principals * Generator
drive end bracket * Distributor advance mechanicals * Oil pressure
gauge
* Bourbon tube * Expansion ( core ) plugs * S.U carburetter flooding *
Flasher/ horn wire connections * Throttle switch adjusting * New choke cable
separation ...
lf you have my Tech Talk book and would like to bring it up todate , we have
supplements available at .60 cents per double sided page + $ 2.00 U.S shipping
Please contact me more information at www.SJNNock@aol.com
From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2004 19:39:55 -0500
Subject: Re: Whoa!! The book doesn't show it this way...
Don't know about the hole in the shifter.....
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Brian N
To: Healeys
Sent: Sunday, February 15, 2004 6:17 PM
Subject: Whoa!! The book doesn't show it this way...
I just removed the shifter cover (circa 1961 side shifter) to look for
missing balls and general condition.
The balls and springs were all there but....
Check out this pic:
http://beachcitygas.com/ebp/txinrds.jpg
The lower shift fork, the reverse fork (illustration #84 on page 54 of
the new Moss catalog) does not have a hole in it like the actual one in
my car, which looks like a bolt or something is supposed to go there.
It is the right side hole in the lower bronze part.
The case is red, not healey green. Could this be a dutchman's pipe made
from some other Austin product? Anyone recognize this red case or the
different reverse fork? The workshop manual shows the same non-hole
fork as the Moss catalog.
If its non-Healey, I wonder what the ratios are? Will any of the
numbers on the case give me a clue?
I am inclined to leave the situation as is, since everything apparently
works OK. But from the looks of the fork, it definitely had a bolt in
the hole at one time.
Also, we cranked over the engine to rotate all the gears and everything
looked fine except form some minor chipping on the front of some of the
reverse/first teeth. Not bad for 40 years. My own teeth have more
chipping than this.
Everything else looked fine except for one thing...which I will make a
separate post about.
Brian N.
1960 BT7
From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2004 20:39:22 -0500
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note
James Lea Pres.
MMSCC
Rockport Me. 04856
1962 BT7 II
From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2004 20:47:36 EST
Subject: Re: Whoa!! The book doesn't show it this way...
From john sawyer <jrsawyer2002 at yahoo.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2004 18:55:03 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Petronix / tach modification
__________________________________
Yahoo! Finance: Get your refund fast by filing online.
http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html
From "Healey Bruce" <healeybruce at adelphia.net>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2004 19:42:02 -0800
Subject: Machine shops in LA area and other questions
And here is an interesting little discovery--there is a small hole perhaps
1/8" in diameter that appears to be drilled in the side of the #1 cylinder
about an inch below the deck. If one were to visualize the block standing
on it's output end, the hole would be about the 10:00 position. Very
strange. Anybody ever seen anything like this before? Looks like a sleeve
will be in order.
Lastly, anyone have a spare handbrake assembly for sale?
Bruce Steele
1960 BN7
Brea, CA
From Dave Carpenter <d.carpenter7 at verizon.net>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2004 23:07:00 -0500
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note (Abarth)
Dave
>
>
> I have often wondered if such a system might still be found, but have
> never found anyone who ever remembered or had a similar exhaust on
> their Healey. Pleasant memories, anyways.
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2004 23:58:04 -0500
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note
Yes it is a great event! My local chapter used it several/many years ago
when we hosted the Southeastern Classic. However, the best one yet was
"Healey Golf" wherein the car was the golf club and we had a 3 ft diameter
inflated ball as the golf ball. Fewest "shots" to get the ball in a large
hole in the parking lot was the winner!
How about some other favorite or unique events for a car meet out there?
Keith Pennell
> I read somewhere last week that a sports car club (I think it was in
> California) had an event where they gave trophies to the best sounding
cars
> buy running them through a tunnel and having them graded buy a panel of
> judges. What a great event idea for something a little different. Cheers,
JL
>
> James Lea Pres.
> MMSCC
> Rockport Me. 04856
> 1962 BT7 II
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2004 23:08:52 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Petronix / tach modification
The Pertronix should not have any affect on your tach.
It sounds as if you may not have switched the tach
properly.
There are two different types of BJ8 tachs out there,
the later version is very easy to switch to negative
ground, the earlier version is very difficult (you
have to isolate the needle chassis from the rest of
the tach).
My '64 BJ8 has the earlier type and I had to send it
to Norman Nock for them to convert it to neg. ground.
It came back with all sorts of teflon washers mounted
on various inside parts...
If you simply just swapped the leads on the diode in
your BJ8 tach... and it is the earlier style tach
(very possible with a '65 BJ8), you may have not
completed the job properly on your tach....
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- john sawyer <jrsawyer2002@yahoo.com> wrote:
> I have converted to negative ground and switched the
> wiring in the tachometer for negative ground. I
> also
> installed petronics ignition. The tach worked for
> an
> hour or so. Has anyone heard of tach problems
> related
> to petronics ignition that requires changing the
> tach
> in any way?
> John Sawyer 65 BJ8
From "Frenken, Eric" <efrenken at lctax.de>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 12:05:59 +0100
Subject: Overdrive
To confirm this I took my manual and found in the overdrive section that the
throttle has to be depressed at least a fifth of its way to 'release' the
overdrive.
About 25 years ago I had an MGB w/overdrive and I remember exactly the
overdrive working the same way as the overdrive now on my AH. I have driven the
MGB for about 2 years nearly everyday and when I sold the car the overdrive
still was in good order without having it renewed or rebuilt.
My question is, is it vital for the transmission that the overdrive will
disengage only when the throttle is depressed slightly or is it just a matter
of convenience for the driver?
Is it possible to modify triggering of the overdrive in that way, that 2nd gear
is working with overdrive as well? The background of my question is to close
the 'gap' between 2nd and 3rd gear.
Hope, my questions aren't too confusing as my English doesn't seem to 'work'
very good today.
Tks.
Eric Frenken BT7 (ex '63 BJ7)
Heinsberg/Germany
From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 08:16:03 -0500
Subject: Re: Petronix / tach modification
tom
> [Original Message]
> From: Blue One Hundred <international_investor@yahoo.com>
> To: john sawyer <jrsawyer2002@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 2/16/04 2:09:59 AM
> Subject: Re: Petronix / tach modification
>
> John -
>
> The Pertronix should not have any affect on your tach.
>
> It sounds as if you may not have switched the tach
> properly.
>
> There are two different types of BJ8 tachs out there,
> the later version is very easy to switch to negative
> ground, the earlier version is very difficult (you
> have to isolate the needle chassis from the rest of
> the tach).
>
> My '64 BJ8 has the earlier type and I had to send it
> to Norman Nock for them to convert it to neg. ground.
> It came back with all sorts of teflon washers mounted
> on various inside parts...
>
> If you simply just swapped the leads on the diode in
> your BJ8 tach... and it is the earlier style tach
> (very possible with a '65 BJ8), you may have not
> completed the job properly on your tach....
>
> Regards,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '64 BJ8
>
> --- john sawyer <jrsawyer2002@yahoo.com> wrote:
> > I have converted to negative ground and switched the
> > wiring in the tachometer for negative ground. I
> > also
> > installed petronics ignition. The tach worked for
> > an
> > hour or so. Has anyone heard of tach problems
> > related
> > to petronics ignition that requires changing the
> > tach
> > in any way?
> > John Sawyer 65 BJ8
From N0040 at aol.com
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 08:30:42 EST
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note (Abarth)
I agree whole heartedly....
I had an Abarth in a previous (purchased in 1972) '65 BJ8 and it was a
wonderful sound.
I had ask a year or so if anyone remembers the Abarth name. It don't think
many people did. I believe the consensus was that they are no longer in
business, or at least not exhaust systems.
I think Abarth was quite popular in the Detroit, MI area in the '60s for all
types of cars, including a new product line called the "Mustang".
Anybody know of the demise or existence of Abarth exhaust systems?
Regards,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
From RAntal243 at aol.com
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 08:54:51 EST
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note (Abarth)
From James Sailer <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 07:29:05 -0700
Subject: RE: Trans change was easy
Cheers.
JIM
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark and kathy LaPierre [mailto:mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net]
Sent: Sunday, February 15, 2004 6:43 AM
To: James Sailer; Healey List
Subject: Re: Trans change was easy
Please splain me. (Having a Hoosier brain fart this morning) What was the
cardboard used for, what in the Healey is a Fat Tire Ales? :) And what
kind of Powder do you expect to get at the Grand Targhee?
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 14, 2004 10:57 PM
Subject: Trans change was easy
> Greeting all...
>
> I guess I forgot how easy this was to remove/install a trans ... a
rolling
> floor jack (my cherry picker just got int he way and was no use)... a
couple
> of pieces of cardboard .... a couple of Fat Tire Ales... and 3.5 hours and
> my new trans was installed...
>
> Thanks for the wisdom along the way...
>
> Jim Sailer 66 BJ8.. to be down on her wheels this week.... (but off to
Grand
> Targhee to get some powder for the day tomorrow...and maybe Jackson
Monday)
From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 08:46:43 -0600
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note (Abarth)
"Abarth mufflers became the thing to have, and production zoomed up to half
a million units year by the mid-sixties...on anything from a smoke belching
Sprite to a new Ferrari" Abarth made hotted up Fiats in the sixties as
well, limited production, many special bodied by Zagato
or some Italian coachbuilder.
Neat history of the cars and the man at:
http://www.abarths.co.uk/history1.htm Unfortunately there is only passing
reference to the exhaust part of his business.
According to this page (go to the bottom)
http://tools.search.yahoo.com/language/translation/translatedPage.php?tt=url&text=http%3a//www.x1-9.it/faza.htm&lp=it_en
Abarth stopped production of exhausts in the early eighties.
I think Monza exhausts were kind of a knock off of Abarth. Take an Italian
name, add some black crackle finish, and there you have it. Although I have
never had an Abarth exhaust, people I know who did or sold them said the
Abarths were better, higher quality or thicker steel, and better free flow
design (and they were more money, go figure).
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
----- Original Message -----
From: <N0040@aol.com>
To: <d.carpenter7@verizon.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, February 16, 2004 7:30 AM
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note (Abarth)
> Dave,
>
> I agree whole heartedly....
> I had an Abarth in a previous (purchased in 1972) '65 BJ8 and it was a
> wonderful sound.
>
> I had ask a year or so if anyone remembers the Abarth name. It don't think
> many people did. I believe the consensus was that they are no longer in
> business, or at least not exhaust systems.
>
> I think Abarth was quite popular in the Detroit, MI area in the '60s for
all
> types of cars, including a new product line called the "Mustang".
>
> Anybody know of the demise or existence of Abarth exhaust systems?
>
> Regards,
> Bob - BJ8
> Milford, MI
From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 07:39:22 -0700
Subject: Re: 62bt7 TORQUE SETTING
Frogeye@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'62 BT7 MK II, '54 BN1, '62 Fiat 1600S
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kurt Leslie" <kansl@net1plus.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 15, 2004 5:31 AM
Subject: 62bt7
> Saw e-mail today regarding torque settings, my service manual also sadly
> lacking in same. Main bearing cap settings listed
> But no connecting rod specs, crank measurement specs also lacking,
> excepting out of round measurements.If someome could post this info it
> would be greatly appreciated. I also need to locate a pinion assembly
> for the speedometer on a bt7 overdrive n/a in parts cat. Any detailed
> info on steering wheel and tube removal would be greatly appreciated.
> There actually appears to be light at the end of the tunnel Kurt L.
From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Steven Tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 07:43:50 -0700
Subject: cams
> Hi everybody I have a questions on cams. I have a 29d motor that runs
great but I know I want some more power.I have seen on the list that tha bj8
has a different cam.If this right.Can some body give me the different spec
on the two cams and were to locate the better cam. Thanks Steve 58bn4
From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: "Steven Tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 09:39:42 -0600
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note (Abarth)
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
63 BJ-7
Quoting Dave Carpenter <d.carpenter7@verizon.net>:
> I had the Abarth system on my '66. A friend of mine in the parts
> department of a local dealer arranged a discount for me from the
> warehouse and I remeber picking it up and fighting all weekend to
> install it. (I was only a wannabe car guy of 20 with limited tools and
> facilities). It followed the original routing and four muffler system.
> That was probably the best sound I ever heard in a sports car. I wish
> they were available now. Currently the BJ8 has stock type exhaust
> including the round mufflers with the piched ends (the kind that look
> like they have four fins on the ends) I like the sound but would jump at
> the chance to get the Abarth sound again. I may consider four glass
> packs and custom bent pipes when this one goes.
>
> Dave
>
> >
> >
> > I have often wondered if such a system might still be found, but have
> > never found anyone who ever remembered or had a similar exhaust on
> > their Healey. Pleasant memories, anyways.
From Brian Burke <wharf-st at shaw.ca>
From: "Steven Tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 07:39:04 -0800
Subject: Abarth exhaust
Brian
From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: "Steven Tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 09:59:25 -0600
Subject: RE: Petronix / tach modification
-----Original Message-----
From: tom felts [mailto:tomfelts@earthlink.net]
Sent: Monday, February 16, 2004 7:16 AM
To: Blue One Hundred; john sawyer; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Petronix / tach modification
I have a 65 BJ8--how can i tell if it is an "earlier" tach?
tom
> [Original Message]
> From: Blue One Hundred <international_investor@yahoo.com>
> To: john sawyer <jrsawyer2002@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 2/16/04 2:09:59 AM
> Subject: Re: Petronix / tach modification
>
> John -
>
> The Pertronix should not have any affect on your tach.
>
> It sounds as if you may not have switched the tach
> properly.
>
> There are two different types of BJ8 tachs out there,
> the later version is very easy to switch to negative
> ground, the earlier version is very difficult (you
> have to isolate the needle chassis from the rest of
> the tach).
>
> My '64 BJ8 has the earlier type and I had to send it
> to Norman Nock for them to convert it to neg. ground.
> It came back with all sorts of teflon washers mounted
> on various inside parts...
>
> If you simply just swapped the leads on the diode in
> your BJ8 tach... and it is the earlier style tach
> (very possible with a '65 BJ8), you may have not
> completed the job properly on your tach....
>
> Regards,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '64 BJ8
>
> --- john sawyer <jrsawyer2002@yahoo.com> wrote:
> > I have converted to negative ground and switched the
> > wiring in the tachometer for negative ground. I
> > also
> > installed petronics ignition. The tach worked for
> > an
> > hour or so. Has anyone heard of tach problems
> > related
> > to petronics ignition that requires changing the
> > tach
> > in any way?
> > John Sawyer 65 BJ8
From "Dean" <dht at erols.com>
From: "Steven Tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 11:21:59 -0500
Subject: BJ8 for sale
Dean
67 BJ8
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Steven Tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 11:44:52 EST
Subject: Re: BJ8 for sale
> I am putting my BJ8 up for sale this spring and wanted to offer it to the
> list
> before I advertised it. My interest is changing and its time to move on. I
> love the list and will continue to follow it
Please, please, please--nobody buy this car! It is a beautiful restoration
but we of the Capital Area Austin-Healey Club are afraid that if Dean sells it
we will lose one of our most valuable members!
Seriously, this is a primo BJ8 for anyone that is looking.
Best--Michael Oritt
From <gregwilkinson at adelphia.net>
From: "Steven Tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 11:47:50 -0500
Subject: Re: Whoa!! The book doesn't show it this way...
Best,
Greg
67 BJ8
>
> From: Brian N <brian@beachcitygas.com>
> Date: 2004/02/15 Sun PM 06:17:49 EST
> To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Whoa!! The book doesn't show it this way...
>
> I just removed the shifter cover (circa 1961 side shifter) to look for
> missing balls and general condition.
>
> The balls and springs were all there but....
>
> Check out this pic:
>
> http://beachcitygas.com/ebp/txinrds.jpg
>
> The lower shift fork, the reverse fork (illustration #84 on page 54 of
> the new Moss catalog) does not have a hole in it like the actual one in
> my car, which looks like a bolt or something is supposed to go there.
> It is the right side hole in the lower bronze part.
>
> The case is red, not healey green. Could this be a dutchman's pipe made
> from some other Austin product? Anyone recognize this red case or the
> different reverse fork? The workshop manual shows the same non-hole
> fork as the Moss catalog.
>
> If its non-Healey, I wonder what the ratios are? Will any of the
> numbers on the case give me a clue?
>
> I am inclined to leave the situation as is, since everything apparently
> works OK. But from the looks of the fork, it definitely had a bolt in
> the hole at one time.
>
> Also, we cranked over the engine to rotate all the gears and everything
> looked fine except form some minor chipping on the front of some of the
> reverse/first teeth. Not bad for 40 years. My own teeth have more
> chipping than this.
>
> Everything else looked fine except for one thing...which I will make a
> separate post about.
>
> Brian N.
> 1960 BT7
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "Steven Tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 09:00:58 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: 100S Head & Judson Supercharger
How is it that the Sprite is harder to drive with the
supercharger, and easier with SUs. I had a Judson on
a modified 1275 bug-eye years ago - on that car there
were many other things I would have changed/removed or
added before letting my offspring take the car...
Dean BN7
--- Douglas W Flagg <dwflagg@juno.com> wrote:
> A friend just took a Judson supercharger off his
> Sprite and put the
> carbs back on so his daughter could drive it.
>
__________________________________
Yahoo! Finance: Get your refund fast by filing online.
http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Steven Tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 09:11:34 -0800
Subject: Exhaust sounds--auxiliary mufflers
Has anyone ever temporarily affixed air-cooled VW exhaust tips for a trip?
Or other muffler which would temporarily clamp on the end of the tailpipe?
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
From Russ Staub <bbb11489 at azboss.net>
From: "Steven Tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 10:27:02 -0700
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note (Abarth)
Wow! A real live Healey with an Abarth system still on it. It's like
finding a 10,000 year old cave-man in a glacier scenario.
Seriously, I had asked the list about Abarth exhausts for a Healey a few
years ago, and didn't get a reply. I had begun to believe maybe I was
mistaken and there was no such beast. But, this thread started by Mike
Lempert has drawn a few of us out of the woodwork, who were lucky enough
to share the same sound experience with our Healeys. Maybe there is yet
a glimmer of hope that such a system could be spec'd and reproduced.
Russ Staub
'61 Bugeye
'56 BN2
'67 BJ8
Mesa, AZ
RAntal243@aol.com wrote:
>.... w've also got three Abarths for your car." That exhaust system still
>sings on
>my Healey and I dread the day when it finally rusts out and can't be
>replaced.
>
>
>Rich Antal
From Ron Fine <RonFineEsq at earthlink.net>
From: "Steven Tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 09:42:18 -0800
Subject: Re: Machine shops in LA area and other questions
From Ron Fine <RonFineEsq at earthlink.net>
From: "Steven Tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 09:55:51 -0800
Subject: Rear Crankshaft oil seal kit
From Ron Fine <RonFineEsq at earthlink.net>
From: "Steven Tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 10:00:08 -0800
Subject: Repairing exhaust manifold
From "Jim LeBlanc" <jleblanc at midsouth.rr.com>
From: "Steven Tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 12:46:08 -0600
Subject: RE: Overdrive
The problem is engaging overdrive in 2nd gear. This is bad and you need
to verify that the switch on the side of the transmission is in good
working order. It sounds as if somebody bypassed this switch. The
problem is not only with engaging overdrive in 2nd, it is 1st, 2nd and
reverse. Any of those choices kill the overdrive unit.
Best Regards,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Frenken, Eric
Sent: Monday, February 16, 2004 5:06 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Overdrive
Hi listers, the overdrive on my BT7 engages/disengages promptly when I
operate the overdrive switch without the throttle pedal being depressed.
Now I read in a Road test done by 'Autocar' in 1964 that the overdrive
is supposed to disengage only when the throttle is depressed a little
bit, thus preventing jolting the transmission.
To confirm this I took my manual and found in the overdrive section that
the throttle has to be depressed at least a fifth of its way to
'release' the overdrive.
About 25 years ago I had an MGB w/overdrive and I remember exactly the
overdrive working the same way as the overdrive now on my AH. I have
driven the MGB for about 2 years nearly everyday and when I sold the car
the overdrive still was in good order without having it renewed or
rebuilt.
My question is, is it vital for the transmission that the overdrive will
disengage only when the throttle is depressed slightly or is it just a
matter of convenience for the driver?
Is it possible to modify triggering of the overdrive in that way, that
2nd gear is working with overdrive as well? The background of my
question is to close the 'gap' between 2nd and 3rd gear.
Hope, my questions aren't too confusing as my English doesn't seem to
'work' very good today.
Tks.
Eric Frenken BT7 (ex '63 BJ7)
Heinsberg/Germany
From "Jim LeBlanc" <jleblanc at midsouth.rr.com>
From: "Steven Tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 12:51:43 -0600
Subject: RE: Repairing exhaust manifold
Best Regards,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Ron Fine
Sent: Monday, February 16, 2004 12:00 PM
To: Healey list
Subject: Repairing exhaust manifold
Is it possible to repair a over sized stud hole on a cast iron exhaust
manifold by adding brazing material and then drilling and taping a new
hole? Does brazing work on cast iron? Is there any danger of
damaging the cast iron by the heating of the torch?
Thanks,
Ron
From "Rick &7& Neves" <Rick at genomictechnologies.com>
From: "Steven Tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 15:34:47 -0500
Subject: Fan Blade Archaeology
See the photo at http://www.rickneves.com/Fanblade.bmp
My understanding is that these fan blades were Red. Can anybody shed some
light on this??
Sincerely
Rick Neves
'56 BN-2
_._
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.586 / Virus Database: 371 - Release Date: 02/12/2004
From "Don Anglesey" <Don at anglesey.us>
From: "Steven Tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 13:40:54 -0800
Subject: Carb replacement
From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Steven Tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 16:46:04 EST
Subject: Re: Carb replacement
Rick
San Diego
In a message dated 2/16/04 1:43:23 PM, Don@anglesey.us writes:
> would like to know if it is worth the
> trouble to take them apart again
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Steven Tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 14:49:39 -0700
Subject: Re: Fan Blade Archaeology
Dave Russell
BN2
Rick &7& Neves wrote:
> I have been restoring the fan blade on my '56 BN-2. I've discovered several
> colors of paint under the outer grey color. I was surprised that this blade
> was actually painted an aluminum color. I thought at first it might have been
> just natural however, after wire brushing a bit I have revealed a YELLOW color
> under the grey-silver and may be a RED color deep in the grain.
>
> See the photo at http://www.rickneves.com/Fanblade.bmp
>
>
> My understanding is that these fan blades were Red. Can anybody shed some
> light on this??
>
>
> Sincerely
>
>
> Rick Neves
> '56 BN-2
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Steven Tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 14:30:33 -0800
Subject: Spark Plug Connectors
If you're not familiar, the wire end screws into the plug cap. The screw
inside the cap is a brass sheetmetal screw that is held in place with
a star washer. My problem is that this arrangement seems none too
secure; i.e. you can pull the wire out of the cap with little effort. Anybody
know a secret or trick to making this more secure? Obviously, I'd hate
for a cable to come loose at an inopportune time.
I'm considering using a silicone glue/sealant to help hold the wire end in
place. This would also provide some moisture and corrosion resistance.
Anybody done this? Gotchas?
TIA,
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: "Steven Tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 17:24:32 -0600
Subject: RE: Repairing exhaust manifold
it is once I fire up my new motor.
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
63 BJ-7
Quoting Jim LeBlanc <jleblanc@midsouth.rr.com>:
> Consider using a heli-coil - or over sizing the stud hole to the next
> size and finding a stud with two sizes, large for the oversize hole and
> the small for the exhaust side. I have a manifold that has been drilled
> and tapped to the next size larger with a larger stud. This gives me
> grief when fitting a new gasket and a new exhaust system. The enw gasket
> and flange need to be fitted to the oversize stud. Really tough drilling
> the gasket.
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Jim LeBlanc
> 1956 100-M
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Ron Fine
> Sent: Monday, February 16, 2004 12:00 PM
> To: Healey list
> Subject: Repairing exhaust manifold
>
> Is it possible to repair a over sized stud hole on a cast iron exhaust
> manifold by adding brazing material and then drilling and taping a new
> hole? Does brazing work on cast iron? Is there any danger of
> damaging the cast iron by the heating of the torch?
> Thanks,
> Ron
From "Jim LeBlanc" <jleblanc at midsouth.rr.com>
From: "Steven Tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 17:28:19 -0600
Subject: RE: Fan Blade Archaeology
Best Regards,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M (red fan)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Dave & Marlene
Sent: Monday, February 16, 2004 3:50 PM
To: Rick &7& Neves
Cc: Healey list
Subject: Re: Fan Blade Archaeology
Way down deep the original metal is aluminum. The original color was
red. Check the metal at the base of the blades for cracks, they
sometimes fracture & throw a blade. Also the four blade is not very good
for stop & go traffic on hot days.
Dave Russell
BN2
Rick &7& Neves wrote:
> I have been restoring the fan blade on my '56 BN-2. I've discovered
several
> colors of paint under the outer grey color. I was surprised that this
blade
> was actually painted an aluminum color. I thought at first it might
have been
> just natural however, after wire brushing a bit I have revealed a
YELLOW color
> under the grey-silver and may be a RED color deep in the grain.
>
> See the photo at http://www.rickneves.com/Fanblade.bmp
>
>
> My understanding is that these fan blades were Red. Can anybody shed
some
> light on this??
>
>
> Sincerely
>
>
> Rick Neves
> '56 BN-2
From APPRAISE11 at aol.com
From: "Steven Tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 18:29:28 EST
Subject: bug eye on ebay
if anybody is interested in white bug-eye on long island being sold by auto
sport designs i went to see car today. i can give you my review.
mitch
63 bj7
From "Don Anglesey" <Don at anglesey.us>
From: "Steven Tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 15:39:17 -0800
Subject: RE: Carb replacement
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of WilKo@aol.com
Sent: Monday, February 16, 2004 1:46 PM
To: Don@anglesey.us; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Carb replacement
It only takes less than a hour to switch the diaphrams. They don't last
long
these days, specially with fuel additives like MTBE or octane boosters.
HD
type Carbs are great and offer excellent tuneability.
Rick
San Diego
From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Steven Tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 19:24:57 -0500
Subject: Webber carbs
James Lea
Rockport Maine
1962 BT7 II
From A2Garrison at aol.com
From: "Steven Tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 19:27:15 EST
Subject: Re: Whoa!! The book doesn't show it this way...
The fork on my spare trans is identical to that pictured. No evidence that
the hole was used for anything.
Alan Garrison
BN6
In a message dated 2/15/2004 6:20:35 PM Eastern Standard Time,
brian@beachcitygas.com writes:
I just removed the shifter cover (circa 1961 side shifter) to look for
missing balls and general condition.
The balls and springs were all there but....
Check out this pic:
http://beachcitygas.com/ebp/txinrds.jpg
The lower shift fork, the reverse fork (illustration #84 on page 54 of
the new Moss catalog) does not have a hole in it like the actual one in
my car, which looks like a bolt or something is supposed to go there.
It is the right side hole in the lower bronze part.
The case is red, not healey green. Could this be a dutchman's pipe made
from some other Austin product? Anyone recognize this red case or the
different reverse fork? The workshop manual shows the same non-hole
fork as the Moss catalog.
If its non-Healey, I wonder what the ratios are? Will any of the
numbers on the case give me a clue?
I am inclined to leave the situation as is, since everything apparently
works OK. But from the looks of the fork, it definitely had a bolt in
the hole at one time.
Also, we cranked over the engine to rotate all the gears and everything
looked fine except form some minor chipping on the front of some of the
reverse/first teeth. Not bad for 40 years. My own teeth have more
chipping than this.
Everything else looked fine except for one thing...which I will make a
separate post about.
Brian N.
1960 BT7
from "J" type used in most MGBs. The "A" model will not withstand much
From: "Steven Tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2004 14:04:38 +1300
Subject: RE: Overdrive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Frenken, Eric
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2004 12:06 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Overdrive
Hi listers, the overdrive on my BT7 engages/disengages promptly when I
operate the overdrive switch without the throttle pedal being depressed.
Now I read in a Road test done by 'Autocar' in 1964 that the overdrive
is supposed to disengage only when the throttle is depressed a little
bit, thus preventing jolting the transmission.
To confirm this I took my manual and found in the overdrive section that
the throttle has to be depressed at least a fifth of its way to
'release' the overdrive.
About 25 years ago I had an MGB w/overdrive and I remember exactly the
overdrive working the same way as the overdrive now on my AH. I have
driven the MGB for about 2 years nearly everyday and when I sold the car
the overdrive still was in good order without having it renewed or
rebuilt.
My question is, is it vital for the transmission that the overdrive will
disengage only when the throttle is depressed slightly or is it just a
matter of convenience for the driver?
Is it possible to modify triggering of the overdrive in that way, that
2nd gear is working with overdrive as well? The background of my
question is to close the 'gap' between 2nd and 3rd gear.
Hope, my questions aren't too confusing as my English doesn't seem to
'work' very good today.
Tks.
Eric Frenken BT7 (ex '63 BJ7)
Heinsberg/Germany
!
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Steven Tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 18:19:31 -0700
Subject: Re: Webber carbs
The Webber manifolds, linkage, filters, & lines are available. All need
to be changed. The power increase may or may not happen depending on the
particular combination of engine components & how you wish to drive the
car. In my opinion, Webbers would be only of cosmetic benefit on a stock
engine & a lot of headaches otherwise. If someone is not familiar with
tuning Webbers they can be a real challenge.
Dave Russell
James Lea wrote:
> Can someone advise what is involved in changing from SU's to Webbers on a BT7?
> Is there an adapter between the carbs and the manifold or do the Webbers just
> bolt on? Do they really make that much difference in the HP? Thanks, JL
>
> James Lea
> Rockport Maine
> 1962 BT7 II
From "matt wilson" <mwilson18 at cox.net>
From: "Steven Tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 17:37:15 -0800
Subject: Re: Abarth exhaust
Best Regards,
Matt Wilson
1960 BT7
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Burke" <wharf-st@shaw.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, February 16, 2004 7:39 AM
Subject: Abarth exhaust
> Does anyone have a good picture of an Abarth exhaust system. I am
> interested in these and would like to see one.
> Thanks
>
> Brian
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Rick &7& Neves" <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 20:40:40 -0500
Subject: Fan Blade Archaeology
> I have been restoring the fan blade on my '56 BN-2. I've discovered
several
> colors of paint under the outer grey color. I was surprised that this
blade
> was actually painted an aluminum color. I thought at first it might have
been
> just natural however, after wire brushing a bit I have revealed a YELLOW
color
> under the grey-silver and may be a RED color deep in the grain.
>
> See the photo at http://www.rickneves.com/Fanblade.bmp
>
>
> My understanding is that these fan blades were Red. Can anybody shed some
> light on this??
>
>
> Sincerely
>
>
> Rick Neves
> '56 BN-2
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Rick &7& Neves" <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 18:34:05 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Carb replacement
HDs are the best carbs SU made. Easy to adjust and
stay in tune with no probs. Best thing to do is to be
sure to spend the money for good diaphrams - either
genuine SU rebuild parts (at a minimum) or some SU
carb specialists carry even better diaphrams than SU.
Ask the list for who has these good diaphrams, I don't
know offhand.
DON'T just buy the cheapest diaphrams you can find.
These can go bad VERY fast, often within 12 months.
I had good diaphrams on my old set of HD8s and they
worked fine w/ no cracking for 10 years.
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- Don Anglesey <Don@anglesey.us> wrote:
> I was out making the final adjustments to my fuel
> mixture this morning
> when both of my HD6 carburetors started leaking from
> the main bodies.
> They were rebuilt 4 years ago and would like to know
> if it is worth the
> trouble to take them apart again and most likely
> replace the jet
> diaphragms or replace them with HS6's. Weber's are
> a bit pricey for my
> needs and the HD8 requires different heat shield and
> air filter backs.
> I converted using HIF6's before on a 59' 3000 with
> some minor
> modifications but was thinking that the HS6's would
> most likely require
> no modification at all. Any thoughts from the list?
> Don
> 57' BN4 converted to 6-port head
> www.anglesey.us
From Douglas W Flagg <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: "Rick &7& Neves" <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 21:44:05 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8 Tranny Fork
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
The best thing to hit the Internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the Web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
From: "Rick &7& Neves" <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 22:37:37 -0500
Subject: Color of brake fluid
Thanks
Carroll
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Rick &7& Neves" <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 20:51:24 -0700
Subject: Re: Fan Blade Archaeology - Addendum
I would like to emphasize the importance of crack checking the original
fan hub & blade roots. A good test would be to have a shop do a "Zyglow"
liquid penetrant test. These fans do fatigue crack & a lost blade can
shread the hood or anyone standing near the open hood.
http://www.magnaflux.com/files/products/catalog.pdf
Dave Russell
BN2
Dave & Marlene wrote:
> Way down deep the original metal is aluminum. The original color was
> red. Check the metal at the base of the blades for cracks, they
> sometimes fracture & throw a blade. Also the four blade is not very good
> for stop & go traffic on hot days.
>
> Dave Russell
> BN2
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Rick &7& Neves" <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 20:22:50 -0800
Subject: Re: Color of brake fluid
Silicone (DOT 5) brake fluid is purple.
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "bjcap" <bjcap@frontiernet.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, February 16, 2004 7:37 PM
Subject: Color of brake fluid
> Have a car that was restored about two years ago and never fully completed.
> The brake fluid is an amber color. Any thoughts as to what it is ? as I'm
> use to Castrol with a slight color, this is VERY yellow. I know Castrol had
> an amber but dont know if still avail. What color is the Cartel silicone ?
> Only used that once MANY years ago.
>
> Thanks
> Carroll
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Rick &7& Neves" <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 21:05:32 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Spark Plug Connectors
Are you using Lucas plug ends? If so you have to
screw the ends down tight. Soap and water helps here.
If you are screwing the ends in with no soap and
water, the silicone jacket can hang up on the plug end
wall, preventing your from screwing it all the way
down.
For my BJ8 I have lucas connectors screwed on the end
of bumblebee wire, and they are connected very firmly.
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- Bob Spidell <bspidell@pacbell.net> wrote:
> I'm fitting solid wire core ignition wires to my
> BJ8. The distributor
> cap end is no problem, it's the spark plug end I'm
> concerned about.
>
> If you're not familiar, the wire end screws into the
> plug cap. The screw
> inside the cap is a brass sheetmetal screw that is
> held in place with
> a star washer. My problem is that this arrangement
> seems none too
> secure; i.e. you can pull the wire out of the cap
> with little effort. Anybody
> know a secret or trick to making this more secure?
> Obviously, I'd hate
> for a cable to come loose at an inopportune time.
>
> I'm considering using a silicone glue/sealant to
> help hold the wire end in
> place. This would also provide some moisture and
> corrosion resistance.
> Anybody done this? Gotchas?
>
>
> TIA,
> bs
> ********************************************
> Bob Spidell San Jose, CA
> bspidell@pacbell.net
> '67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey
> 100M
> ********************************************
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Rick &7& Neves" <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 21:10:27 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Color of brake fluid
It sounds like it has plain old Dot 3 or Dot 4 fluid
in it. Most Silicone fluids are colored red or
purple, and LMA has a slight purple tint in it.
Put your finger in it and smell the fluid - silicone
doesn't smell anything like brake fluid (actually much
of it doesn't have an odor at all). But Dot 3, 4 or 5
will have that slight sickly sweet smell. If you have
a british car you should know the smell!
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- bjcap <bjcap@frontiernet.net> wrote:
> Have a car that was restored about two years ago and
> never fully completed.
> The brake fluid is an amber color. Any thoughts as
> to what it is ? as I'm
> use to Castrol with a slight color, this is VERY
> yellow. I know Castrol had
> an amber but dont know if still avail. What color is
> the Cartel silicone ?
> Only used that once MANY years ago.
>
> Thanks
> Carroll
From "John Soderling" <jsoderling at astound.net>
From: "Don Anglesey" <Don@anglesey.us>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 21:36:48 -0800
Subject: Carb replacement
> I was out making the final adjustments to my fuel mixture this morning
> when both of my HD6 carburetors started leaking from the main bodies.
> They were rebuilt 4 years ago and would like to know if it is worth the
> trouble to take them apart again and most likely replace the jet
> diaphragms or replace them with HS6's. Weber's are a bit pricey for my
> needs and the HD8 requires different heat shield and air filter backs.
> I converted using HIF6's before on a 59' 3000 with some minor
> modifications but was thinking that the HS6's would most likely require
> no modification at all. Any thoughts from the list?
> Don
> 57' BN4 converted to 6-port head
> www.anglesey.us
From "Len and/or Marge" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: "Don Anglesey" <Don@anglesey.us>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 21:43:01 -0800
Subject: RE: Overdrive
In town, 2nd overdrive is ideal with my totally mismatched gear ratios
(standard transmission (car came from factory without OD), junk yard OD
self installed and modified to 28% , 3.54 rear end). At 25 MPH, 2nd
standard is 3200 RPM, a little too high for me, and 3rd standard is 1900
RPM, a little too low. 2nd OD splits the difference at 2600 RPM,
reasonable torque for acceleration and it sounds good (see thread on
exhaust tone). 30 MPH is 4000/3000/2250 in 2S/2OD/3S respectively. (All
figures approximate)
I have used 2nd OD in hilly and mountain driving, hill climbs (oops!
Uphill Slaloms for insurance purposes), autocrosses, and speed runs. I use
it when entering the Interstate. I use it when downshifting to reduce
speed. My sequence for acceleration is 1st, 2nd, 2nd OD, 3rd, 3rd OD, 4th
OD (3rd OD and 4th Std are only 100 RPM apart). This, in effect, gives me
a six speed trany. I LOVE 2ND OVERDRIVE!
The consequences of a mistaken shift into reverse have not been ignored. I
have installed a normally ON switch opposite the cut off switch on the
trany. When I move the gear shift lever into the reverse position, this
added switch disengages the OD if I have neglected to do so.
I'm keeping my fingers crossed but I have put around 100,000 miles on this
set-up and it hasn't failed me yet. Use your own discretion when
considering bypassing the cut off switch. Based upon comments from other
listers forecasting doom for your overdrive , you may not consider the
benefits worth the risk.
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA
1967 3000 MKIII HBJ8L39031
> [Original Message]
> From: Jim LeBlanc <jleblanc@midsouth.rr.com>
> To: Frenken, Eric <efrenken@lctax.de>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 2/16/2004 10:47:13 AM
> Subject: RE: Overdrive
>
> I purposefully modified my system to disengage when the dashboard switch
> is flipped. I either put in the clutch or depress the throttle. Not too
> hard to get used to.
>
> The problem is engaging overdrive in 2nd gear. This is bad and you need
> to verify that the switch on the side of the transmission is in good
> working order. It sounds as if somebody bypassed this switch. The
> problem is not only with engaging overdrive in 2nd, it is 1st, 2nd and
> reverse. Any of those choices kill the overdrive unit.
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Jim LeBlanc
> 1956 100-M
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Frenken, Eric
> Sent: Monday, February 16, 2004 5:06 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Overdrive
>
> Hi listers, the overdrive on my BT7 engages/disengages promptly when I
> operate the overdrive switch without the throttle pedal being depressed.
> Now I read in a Road test done by 'Autocar' in 1964 that the overdrive
> is supposed to disengage only when the throttle is depressed a little
> bit, thus preventing jolting the transmission.
>
> To confirm this I took my manual and found in the overdrive section that
> the throttle has to be depressed at least a fifth of its way to
> 'release' the overdrive.
>
> About 25 years ago I had an MGB w/overdrive and I remember exactly the
> overdrive working the same way as the overdrive now on my AH. I have
> driven the MGB for about 2 years nearly everyday and when I sold the car
> the overdrive still was in good order without having it renewed or
> rebuilt.
>
> My question is, is it vital for the transmission that the overdrive will
> disengage only when the throttle is depressed slightly or is it just a
> matter of convenience for the driver?
>
> Is it possible to modify triggering of the overdrive in that way, that
> 2nd gear is working with overdrive as well? The background of my
> question is to close the 'gap' between 2nd and 3rd gear.
>
> Hope, my questions aren't too confusing as my English doesn't seem to
> 'work' very good today.
>
> Tks.
>
> Eric Frenken BT7 (ex '63 BJ7)
> Heinsberg/Germany
From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Don Anglesey" <Don@anglesey.us>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 23:55:28 -0600
Subject: F/S early 100 alloy(factory) hood(bonnet)
From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Don Anglesey" <Don@anglesey.us>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 23:57:41 -0600
Subject: Fw: F/S early 100 alloy(factory) hood(bonnet)
From Joe Armour <sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au>
From: "Don Anglesey" <Don@anglesey.us>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 02 Sep 1956 07:07:20 +1000
Subject: Alternative Exhaust
TWO 2 inch dia. by 18 inch long lengths of pipe fitted over the flexible
pipe ends and neatly pulled out to exit under the left door.Brilliant
!!!
Noisey you think ? Only if you let the revs drop below approx. 3000
rpm.
Travel after 8pm.less traffic less need to go below 3000rpm.
The only time we looked like having a problem is when we decided to
avoid the main street of a major town with highway patrol depot and
discovered that the Police Station was right in the middle of our choice
of backstreet by-pass.From that time on straight down the middle of
town.
The large investment silencer lasted many years and 2inch pipe was cheap
and Healeys [sixes] sound terrific at 3000 + rpm.
In those days no radar speed traps and there was some sport in avoiding
being caught on the open road.
Donald would have been proud of us!!!
Another low cost alternative
Joe
From John Harper <AH at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: "Don Anglesey" <Don@anglesey.us>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2004 08:14:20 +0000
Subject: Re: Fan Blade Archaeology
As far as I am aware the only fans fitted to 100s were 4 bladed and red.
These actually started life on the A90 Atlantic and these were fitted to
very early 100s but when the safety guard was fitted to the top rear of
the radiator the tips were trimmed and thus a unique fan was made for
the rest of the 100s.
Two bladed (red) fans were fitted to standard A70 Herefords, Hampshires
and Austin 16s but these would need the tips trimmed to fit the majority
of 100s.
The A90 Atlantic fan was fitted to some export A70s I seem to recall.
Finally; why should Longbridge fit a different colour fan to engines
when they did not know at that point where the final car was destined.
It does not make sense.
All the best
>I have done the same research on two fan blades from the 100-4. I agree
>that the correct color is red. However there was a discussion that the
>red was only used for cars exported outside the US and therefore other
>colors might be found under the red.
>
>Best Regards,
>
>Jim LeBlanc
>1956 100-M (red fan)
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
>On Behalf Of Dave & Marlene
>Sent: Monday, February 16, 2004 3:50 PM
>To: Rick &7& Neves
>Cc: Healey list
>Subject: Re: Fan Blade Archaeology
>
>Way down deep the original metal is aluminum. The original color was
>red. Check the metal at the base of the blades for cracks, they
>sometimes fracture & throw a blade. Also the four blade is not very good
>
>for stop & go traffic on hot days.
>
>Dave Russell
>BN2
>
>Rick &7& Neves wrote:
>> I have been restoring the fan blade on my '56 BN-2. I've discovered
>several
>> colors of paint under the outer grey color. I was surprised that this
>blade
>> was actually painted an aluminum color. I thought at first it might
>have been
>> just natural however, after wire brushing a bit I have revealed a
>YELLOW color
>> under the grey-silver and may be a RED color deep in the grain.
>>
>> See the photo at http://www.rickneves.com/Fanblade.bmp
>>
>>
>> My understanding is that these fan blades were Red. Can anybody shed
>some
>> light on this??
>>
>>
>> Sincerely
>>
>>
>> Rick Neves
>> '56 BN-2
>
--
John Harper
From "David Masucci" <dmasucci at radiantsoundworks.com>
From: "Don Anglesey" <Don@anglesey.us>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2004 06:38:02 -0500
Subject: Re: Alternative Exhaust
BTW, my BJ8 is running a mild steel BJ7 exhaust. I love it.
Dave
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joe Armour" <sebring@illawarra.hotkey.net.au>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 01, 1956 4:07 PM
Subject: Alternative Exhaust
> Back in 1966 at age 17 and trying to keep my BN4 on the road we devised
> an economic alternative exhaust system that surely was always intendeed
> by D.H.Motor Co. otherwise they would never have supplied Healeys with
> flexible pipes as standard in the engine pipes.I travelled 360 miles
> 'home' every few months to visit family and friends and the roads played
> havoc with my brand new silencer that cost many weeks pay.So Thurs night
> off with with the tailpipes in preparation and then 10 mile out of town
> Fri night the unmarked muffler went into the boot [trunk] and on with
> the new low profile low backpressure system.
>
> TWO 2 inch dia. by 18 inch long lengths of pipe fitted over the flexible
> pipe ends and neatly pulled out to exit under the left door.Brilliant
> !!!
>
> Noisey you think ? Only if you let the revs drop below approx. 3000
> rpm.
>
> Travel after 8pm.less traffic less need to go below 3000rpm.
>
> The only time we looked like having a problem is when we decided to
> avoid the main street of a major town with highway patrol depot and
> discovered that the Police Station was right in the middle of our choice
> of backstreet by-pass.From that time on straight down the middle of
> town.
>
> The large investment silencer lasted many years and 2inch pipe was cheap
> and Healeys [sixes] sound terrific at 3000 + rpm.
>
> In those days no radar speed traps and there was some sport in avoiding
> being caught on the open road.
> Donald would have been proud of us!!!
>
> Another low cost alternative
>
> Joe
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
From: "Don Anglesey" <Don@anglesey.us>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2004 10:14:35 -0500
Subject: brake fluid color thanks
Thanks again for the replies
Carroll Top Down Restorations
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
From: "Don Anglesey" <Don@anglesey.us>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2004 10:16:06 -0500
Subject: brake fluid color
Thanks again for the replies
Carroll Top Down Restorations
From "Frenken, Eric" <efrenken at lctax.de>
From: "Don Anglesey" <Don@anglesey.us>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2004 16:29:45 +0100
Subject: tks for the replies (overdrive throttle switch)
Your contributions were very helpful to me and I appreciate you spending time
and thoughts on my problem.
This list is really great.
Tks.
Eric Frenken MK I/BT7 (ex '63 BJ7)
Heinsberg/Germany
From "Joseph Bachman III" <josephbachman at hotmail.com>
From: "Don Anglesey" <Don@anglesey.us>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2004 16:11:07 +0000
Subject: Hi from teh new guy
I am really looking forward to learing this car, of which I am very
unfamilar. I am sure I will have many questions for all of you.
I look forward to meeting you all at various healey events.
Regards,
Jay Bachman
_________________________________________________________________
Click, drag and drop. My MSN is the simple way to design your homepage.
http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200364ave/direct/01/
From MBran89793 at aol.com
From: "Don Anglesey" <Don@anglesey.us>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2004 11:48:54 EST
Subject: Re: Hi from teh new guy
I would suggest that you next step is to get involved with an Austin-Healey
Club in your area. If you will provide you mailing address I'll try to put you
in touch with a local club.
Some people are not inclined to join clubs, but I don't personally know why.
You will certainly meet a lots of very nice people with shared interest and
they may be able to lend a helping hand should you run up against a problem
that
is difficult to solve.
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
727/867-7129
Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club
From Jon McLeroy <jfm at spyderinternet.com>
From: "Don Anglesey" <Don@anglesey.us>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2004 11:09:08 -0600
Subject: Re: Hi from teh new guy
Congrats on the new BN2 I know you will enjoy experience, especially with
the help of this list.
My company, Classic Auto Lubes, handles Penrite Oil products for classic,
vintage and veteran cars. If you will let me have your mailing address I
would be happy to send you a brochure and other info including a
Lubrication Recommendation sheet for your Healey.
Have a great day and God Bless.
Jon
Classic Auto Lubes
12803 CR 1222
Tyler, Tx. 75709
Ph: 903-561-4858
Fax: 903-561-7177
Email: jfm@spyderinternet.com
www.classicautolubes.com
At 04:11 PM 2/17/04 +0000, you wrote:
>hey all - I first pinged this list about a week ago with some quesations
>as to what areas of the car to look at for corrosion, etc... when going to
>buy. Well I'm happy to announce I'm the proud new owner of a '56 BN2, red
>over black. I will be picking it up this weekend, and I can't wait to
>start enjoying it.
>
>I am really looking forward to learing this car, of which I am very
>unfamilar. I am sure I will have many questions for all of you.
>
>I look forward to meeting you all at various healey events.
>
>Regards,
>
>Jay Bachman
--
This message has been scanned for viruses and
dangerous content by our MailScanner, and is
believed to be clean.
From David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Don Anglesey" <Don@anglesey.us>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2004 09:23:33 -0800
Subject: Re: Repairing exhaust manifold
> Is it possible to repair a over sized stud hole on a cast iron exhaust
> manifold by adding brazing material and then drilling and taping a new
> hole? Does brazing work on cast iron? Is there any danger of
> damaging the cast iron by the heating of the torch?
> Thanks,
> Ron
The best fix is to either install a Heli Coil threaded insert or replace
the manifold.
--
--
David Nock
NEW E-mail Addresses!!!
David Nock, Technical Questions healeydoc@sbcglobal.net
Sheila Nock-Huggins, Parts Questions britishcardoc@sbcglobal.net
British Car Specialists 2060 N. Wilson Way Stockton CA 95205
Phone 209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030
http://www.britishcarspecialists.com
From David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Don Anglesey" <Don@anglesey.us>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2004 09:28:54 -0800
Subject: Re: BJ8 Tranny Fork
> Does anyone have a new or excellent used 1st & 2nd gear clutch fork for a
> BJ8 tranny? TIA.
>
> Happy Healeying,
>
> Doug
Yes we have these available both new and used, we also can rebuild yours if
required.
--
--
David Nock
NEW E-mail Addresses!!!
David Nock, Technical Questions healeydoc@sbcglobal.net
Sheila Nock-Huggins, Parts Questions britishcardoc@sbcglobal.net
British Car Specialists 2060 N. Wilson Way Stockton CA 95205
Phone 209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030
http://www.britishcarspecialists.com
From "Vink, Graham" <vinkg at fleishman.com>
From: "Don Anglesey" <Don@anglesey.us>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2004 12:04:12 -0600
Subject: RE: Hi from teh new guy
Congratulations and welcome to the (usually) wonderful word of
Healeying. This list is a great resource, and flame wars don't break out
too often ...
Here are my suggestions for a newbie Healey owner. All of these are from
my ownership of a 1963 BJ7, and I'm not that familiar with the earlier
models, so not all of these may be applicable to you.
--get a battery charger and a heavy-duty set of battery cables (not
cheap light ones). If your BN2 has the battery in the trunk, like on
later cars, that's a long run for the positive cable to get to the
starter. So if the car cranks slowly, a lot of time it's a slightly
undercharged battery and/or some corrosion on the terminals at either
end. If the car sits a lot, you also might consider one of those
"trickle chargers" to keep the battery topped off
--get to know Harbor Freight Tools (on Web). Best source of cheap tools
and equipment, especially on sale. I know that some on the list will
object to their (variable) quality, but I try to spend money on high
quality for tools I use a lot (ratchets, screwdrivers) and less on
things I don't. Also, most of their stuff has lifetime warranty, which
I've twice used with no problem - they just send whatever you call up
and say has broken.
-remove wire wheels and lubricate splines (assuming it has wire wheels).
You'd rather find out in the driveway than when you have a flat.
-change oil and filter. install spin-on adaptor if available for your
car - less mess, will encourage you to change oil more often. Keep
original filter setup to satisfy purists.
-adjust rear brakes, make sure parking brake works, etc. Also, if car
has not been driven a lot recently, be aware that hydraulics (brake,
clutch) can sometimes work OK the first time or two, then start to leak,
so be cautious.
-install a flush and fill kit from auto parts store (again, purists will
be aghast) in a heater hose, pour in radiator cleaner and backflush per
directions on kit. refill with new antifreeze/water mixture.
-make sure you have all the tire-changing stuff (jack, hammer, spare
tire with air!), etc.)
-make up a small emergency toolkit. Suggested contents: jumper cables,
hammer, decent flashlight, screwdrivers, pliers - one that will cut
wire, adjustable wrench, one of those cheap $3.99 socket wrench sets,
duct tape and a couple of sizes of band clamps with you (for emergency
repairs on big/small hoses)and baling wire (for sagging mufflers),
plastic soda bottle for gathering water (or keep it filled), spare fan
belt, spare big water hoses (see below), spare points, condensor, rotor
cap and a couple of spark plug wires; a few feet of electrical wire; can
of spray-on starter fluid (use carefully, and many people warn again,
but I've used it for years and never had a problem; it beats sitting by
the side of the highway when your Healey won't start when it's cold).
-carefully check condition of all water hoses. If one is bad, replace
them all and save them as spares. also replace clamps as necessary.
-check drive belts and if they don't look brand new, replace and save
the old as spares.
-change points, condensor, rotor, spark plug wires and save old as
spares. Also carry a spare coil if you have one. (I always upgrade to
the Lucas sports coil.)
-consider draining and filling transmission and rear end, since you have
no idea what kind of oil has been put in them.
-examine radiator fan closely, especially if aftermarket, look for any
cracks. When fan blades brake, bad things happen.
-top off all fluid in lever shocks, lube chassis points, top off
steering box, etc.
-closely examine condition of capillary tube from engine to oil gauge;
if the tube breaks, it will happily pump all the oil out of your engine
(fortunately, it takes a while). When my tube broke in a Triumph, it
broke on the inside of the passenger compartment and pumped boiling oil
onto my crotch - so I definitely noticed! Otherwise, the only way to
tell is when the engine runs dry. In the same vein, make sure your temp
gauge works properly - otherwise it's way too easy to blow a hose or
belt and never notice until it's too late. happened to me once in a
friend's Bimmer - engine seized and never ran again.
Basically, my idea is to perform and/or replace EVERYTHING involving
routine maintenance more or less all at once, even if it may not be
needed. That way, you know that all consumables are (hopefully) good,
and you don't have to chase problems down one at a time by wondering how
old a part is. Plus it gives you spares for your toolkit.
-Graham
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: "Don Anglesey" <Don@anglesey.us>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2004 15:04:38 -0500
Subject: Re: Hi from teh new guy
Keith Pennell
> Hello Jay,
>
> Congratulations and welcome to the (usually) wonderful word of
> Healeying. This list is a great resource, and flame wars don't break out
> too often ...
>
> Here are my suggestions for a newbie Healey owner. All of these are from
> my ownership of a 1963 BJ7, and I'm not that familiar with the earlier
> models, so not all of these may be applicable to you.
>
> --get a battery charger and a heavy-duty set of battery cables (not
> cheap light ones). If your BN2 has the battery in the trunk, like on
> later cars, that's a long run for the positive cable to get to the
> starter. So if the car cranks slowly, a lot of time it's a slightly
> undercharged battery and/or some corrosion on the terminals at either
> end. If the car sits a lot, you also might consider one of those
> "trickle chargers" to keep the battery topped off
>
> --get to know Harbor Freight Tools (on Web). Best source of cheap tools
> and equipment, especially on sale. I know that some on the list will
> object to their (variable) quality, but I try to spend money on high
> quality for tools I use a lot (ratchets, screwdrivers) and less on
> things I don't. Also, most of their stuff has lifetime warranty, which
> I've twice used with no problem - they just send whatever you call up
> and say has broken.
>
> -remove wire wheels and lubricate splines (assuming it has wire wheels).
> You'd rather find out in the driveway than when you have a flat.
>
> -change oil and filter. install spin-on adaptor if available for your
> car - less mess, will encourage you to change oil more often. Keep
> original filter setup to satisfy purists.
>
> -adjust rear brakes, make sure parking brake works, etc. Also, if car
> has not been driven a lot recently, be aware that hydraulics (brake,
> clutch) can sometimes work OK the first time or two, then start to leak,
> so be cautious.
>
> -install a flush and fill kit from auto parts store (again, purists will
> be aghast) in a heater hose, pour in radiator cleaner and backflush per
> directions on kit. refill with new antifreeze/water mixture.
>
> -make sure you have all the tire-changing stuff (jack, hammer, spare
> tire with air!), etc.)
>
> -make up a small emergency toolkit. Suggested contents: jumper cables,
> hammer, decent flashlight, screwdrivers, pliers - one that will cut
> wire, adjustable wrench, one of those cheap $3.99 socket wrench sets,
> duct tape and a couple of sizes of band clamps with you (for emergency
> repairs on big/small hoses)and baling wire (for sagging mufflers),
> plastic soda bottle for gathering water (or keep it filled), spare fan
> belt, spare big water hoses (see below), spare points, condensor, rotor
> cap and a couple of spark plug wires; a few feet of electrical wire; can
> of spray-on starter fluid (use carefully, and many people warn again,
> but I've used it for years and never had a problem; it beats sitting by
> the side of the highway when your Healey won't start when it's cold).
>
> -carefully check condition of all water hoses. If one is bad, replace
> them all and save them as spares. also replace clamps as necessary.
>
> -check drive belts and if they don't look brand new, replace and save
> the old as spares.
>
> -change points, condensor, rotor, spark plug wires and save old as
> spares. Also carry a spare coil if you have one. (I always upgrade to
> the Lucas sports coil.)
>
> -consider draining and filling transmission and rear end, since you have
> no idea what kind of oil has been put in them.
>
> -examine radiator fan closely, especially if aftermarket, look for any
> cracks. When fan blades brake, bad things happen.
>
> -top off all fluid in lever shocks, lube chassis points, top off
> steering box, etc.
>
> -closely examine condition of capillary tube from engine to oil gauge;
> if the tube breaks, it will happily pump all the oil out of your engine
> (fortunately, it takes a while). When my tube broke in a Triumph, it
> broke on the inside of the passenger compartment and pumped boiling oil
> onto my crotch - so I definitely noticed! Otherwise, the only way to
> tell is when the engine runs dry. In the same vein, make sure your temp
> gauge works properly - otherwise it's way too easy to blow a hose or
> belt and never notice until it's too late. happened to me once in a
> friend's Bimmer - engine seized and never ran again.
>
> Basically, my idea is to perform and/or replace EVERYTHING involving
> routine maintenance more or less all at once, even if it may not be
> needed. That way, you know that all consumables are (hopefully) good,
> and you don't have to chase problems down one at a time by wondering how
> old a part is. Plus it gives you spares for your toolkit.
>
> -Graham
From busyrider at springmail.com
From: "Don Anglesey" <Don@anglesey.us>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2004 15:42:00 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Hi from teh new guy
Fred Criswell
Non-member
-----Original Message-----
From: MBran89793@aol.com
Some people are not inclined to join clubs, but I don't personally know why.
From James Sailer <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: "Don Anglesey" <Don@anglesey.us>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2004 13:52:04 -0700
Subject: Subject: Re: Hi from teh new guy
Jim Sailer
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Don Anglesey" <Don@anglesey.us>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2004 16:11:29 EST
Subject: Webbers vs. SUs
>
> The Webber manifolds, linkage, filters, & lines are available. All need
> to be changed. The power increase may or may not happen depending on the
> particular combination of engine components & how you wish to drive the
> car. In my opinion, Webbers would be only of cosmetic benefit on a stock
> engine
>
To answer this, let me give you a long-lead preview to an article that we're
working up for Classic Motorsports Magazine from data our tech editor has
developed. Working with an MGB, he has done over 150 dyno pulls on Webbers vs.
SUs
under a wide variety of different combinations of heads, intake manifolds,
exhaust manifolds. His conclusion is that with all else equal, simply bolting
Webbers on in place of SUs, no matter how well each is tuned, the maximum
available horsepower is almost exactly equal. HOWEVER, improving the manifolds,
and
working on the head (flowing, porting, and polishing -- whatever those
processes are) will provide significantly more horsepower. What the Webbers
will
change is the responsiveness of the engine to throttle changes, which is a good
thing on the race track, but not necessarily a good thing on the street. Oh,
and
the Webbers will increase the number of variables you can fiddle with (or
screw up) when tuning the engine.
All in all, there are some pretty good reasons why Webbers were the carb of
choice on works Healeys while SUs were installed on the street cars.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Editor, Classic Motorsports Magazine
www.classicmotorsports.net
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Don Anglesey" <Don@anglesey.us>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2004 16:12:25 EST
Subject: Good Eye for the New Guy
My only suggestion is that you newsletter editors out there immediately get
Graham's permission to republish his list in your publications, not only for
those who are new in the hobby, but for those of us who haven't been
conscientious recently and need a reminder of what to check before puttting the
car back
on the road again this spring.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Editor, Classic Motorsports Magazine
Co-Author, Austin-Healey Restoration Guide
From "John Trifari" <jtrifari at comcast.net>
From: "Don Anglesey" <Don@anglesey.us>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2004 13:30:26 -0800
Subject: Golden Gate AHC event alert
SAT FEB 21
The annual Golden Gate tune-up and trouble-shooting tech session will be held
next Saturday, February 21 at British Car Specialists in Stockton.
Dave and Norman will discuss tune-ups, trouble-shooting and basic repairs.
The tech session starts at 10AM. British Car Specialists is located
at 2060 North Wilson Way in Stockton. To get there, take I-5 to California
Route 4 east (downtown Stockton exit) and go about 2 miles to the exit at
Wilson Way.
Go north (under the freeway) on Wilson Way for about three miles.
The shop is on the right. If you are coming down 99 exit at Wilson Way and
head south. Proceed about a mile. The shop will be on your left. If you are
planning to attend, please contact Dave at 209-824-1562 (evenings) or at
209-948-8767 at the shop during the day. Dave will also need a Healey to
examine. If you are interested in providing your Healey for this purpose,
call Dave at the shop.
From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Don Anglesey" <Don@anglesey.us>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2004 17:04:17 -0500
Subject: Re: Webbers vs. SUs
James Lea
Rockport Maine
1962 BT7 II
From "David Zuiderveld" <davzu29 at earthlink.net>
From: "Don Anglesey" <Don@anglesey.us>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2004 17:07:23 -0500
Subject: Re: Hi from teh new guy - club membership
I forgot to edit my first e-mail about this subjuect, but feel strongly
enought that I wanted to repeat it if it didn't get sent.
Wow, what a bombshell, I'm sure you'll get a few responses from your
"anti-club membership comment". Membership in your local Healey club is a
bargain. Look what it costs you to go to the movies or out to dinner -
once. You can't spend $35 - $40 anywhere and get the type of long-term
benefits you get by belonging to your local club. Healey membership gives
you an instant "Healey family", worldwide, with a wealth of knowledge,
support and comrodery all year long. Club members are willing and eager to
help each other and support members with knowledge, resources, information
and maintenance suggestions on only one thing - Healeys. There are
absolutely no power struggles for political gain going on in my local club.
What caused you to have such a poor attitude about membership? I sure hope
your comments won't discourage a new, or potential owner, who might be
thinking of joining a local club, in an attempt to get the benefits and full
enjoyment out of their car.
David Z. Northeast Ohio Austin Healey Club
----- Original Message -----
From: <busyrider@springmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2004 3:42 PM
Subject: Re: Hi from teh new guy
> I can think of one: club politics and dues used to pay for expenses of
club officers and travel expenses.
>
> Fred Criswell
> Non-member
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "Don Anglesey" <Don@anglesey.us>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2004 14:44:03 -0800 (PST)
Subject: RE: Hi from teh new guy
--- "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com> wrote:
>
__________________________________
Yahoo! Finance: Get your refund fast by filing online.
http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html
From John Peak <redbn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "Don Anglesey" <Don@anglesey.us>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2004 15:33:29 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note (Abarth)
Russ Staub <bbb11489@azboss.net> wrote:
Rich,
Wow! A real live Healey with an Abarth system still on it. It's like
finding a 10,000 year old cave-man in a glacier scenario.
Seriously, I had asked the list about Abarth exhausts for a Healey a few
years ago, and didn't get a reply. I had begun to believe maybe I was
mistaken and there was no such beast. But, this thread started by Mike
Lempert has drawn a few of us out of the woodwork, who were lucky enough
to share the same sound experience with our Healeys. Maybe there is yet
a glimmer of hope that such a system could be spec'd and reproduced.
Russ Staub
'61 Bugeye
'56 BN2
'67 BJ8
Mesa, AZ
RAntal243@aol.com wrote:
>.... w've also got three Abarths for your car." That exhaust system still
>sings on
>my Healey and I dread the day when it finally rusts out and can't be
>replaced.
>
>
>Rich Antal
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Finance: Get your refund fast by filing online
From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: "Don Anglesey" <Don@anglesey.us>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2004 17:34:56 -0600
Subject: RE: Hi from teh new guy - club membership
-----Original Message-----
From: David Zuiderveld [mailto:davzu29@earthlink.net]
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2004 4:07 PM
To: busyrider@springmail.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Hi from teh new guy - club membership
Fred,
I forgot to edit my first e-mail about this subjuect, but feel strongly
enought that I wanted to repeat it if it didn't get sent.
Wow, what a bombshell, I'm sure you'll get a few responses from your
"anti-club membership comment". Membership in your local Healey club is
a
bargain. Look what it costs you to go to the movies or out to dinner -
once. You can't spend $35 - $40 anywhere and get the type of long-term
benefits you get by belonging to your local club. Healey membership
gives
you an instant "Healey family", worldwide, with a wealth of knowledge,
support and comrodery all year long. Club members are willing and eager
to
help each other and support members with knowledge, resources,
information
and maintenance suggestions on only one thing - Healeys. There are
absolutely no power struggles for political gain going on in my local
club.
What caused you to have such a poor attitude about membership? I sure
hope
your comments won't discourage a new, or potential owner, who might be
thinking of joining a local club, in an attempt to get the benefits and
full
enjoyment out of their car.
David Z. Northeast Ohio Austin Healey Club
----- Original Message -----
From: <busyrider@springmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2004 3:42 PM
Subject: Re: Hi from teh new guy
> I can think of one: club politics and dues used to pay for expenses of
club officers and travel expenses.
>
> Fred Criswell
> Non-member
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sasktel.net>
From: "Don Anglesey" <Don@anglesey.us>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2004 17:58:48 -0600
Subject: Re: Hi from teh new guy - club membership
Again, thank you!
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
www.vintage-sportscar-touring.ca
'65 BJ8
David Zuiderveld wrote:
> Fred,
>
> I forgot to edit my first e-mail about this subjuect, but feel strongly
> enought that I wanted to repeat it if it didn't get sent.
>
> Wow, what a bombshell, I'm sure you'll get a few responses from your
> "anti-club membership comment". Membership in your local Healey club is a
> bargain. Look what it costs you to go to the movies or out to dinner -
> once. You can't spend $35 - $40 anywhere and get the type of long-term
> benefits you get by belonging to your local club. Healey membership gives
> you an instant "Healey family", worldwide, with a wealth of knowledge,
> support and comrodery all year long. Club members are willing and eager to
> help each other and support members with knowledge, resources, information
> and maintenance suggestions on only one thing - Healeys. There are
> absolutely no power struggles for political gain going on in my local club.
> What caused you to have such a poor attitude about membership? I sure hope
> your comments won't discourage a new, or potential owner, who might be
> thinking of joining a local club, in an attempt to get the benefits and full
> enjoyment out of their car.
>
> David Z. Northeast Ohio Austin Healey Club
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <busyrider@springmail.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2004 3:42 PM
> Subject: Re: Hi from teh new guy
>
>
>
>>I can think of one: club politics and dues used to pay for expenses of
>
> club officers and travel expenses.
>
>>Fred Criswell
>>Non-member
From "Neal Grotenhuis" <grotenhuis at comcast.net>
From: "Don Anglesey" <Don@anglesey.us>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2004 20:26:30 -0500
Subject: RE: Overdrive
I have just finished rebuilding my 22% OD, which I too installed on my
"standard class" BT7 (no OD, no adjustable steering column, disk wheels,
3.54 rear end). I had some earlier posts stating my OD getting stuck on.
I'm hoping new springs will cure this. I never installed the accelerator
kick-down hardware, but I do use the cut off switch to prevent reverse in
OD. I also switch out of OD to slow down, but am gentle and use the clutch.
If I understand the design, as soon as the OD is switched off, the tranny is
in direct drive mode, and the OD is just a pass thru mechanism, so there
isn't much strain on it during engine braking.
I still need to replace a synchro ring, so the tranny os still out of the
car, and I'm interested in how you enabled 2nd OD but still disable reverse.
How was this "normally on" switch wired? Was it a plunger switch like the
cut off? I'm tempted...
As far as I know, the Triumphs TR3-6 used the same "A" type OD as Healey,
and it was enabled on 2nd, 3rd, and 4th. Maybe the 80-90wt gear oil they
recommended for the OD gave it extra strength ;-)
Neal G.
61 BT7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Len and/or Marge
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2004 12:43 AM
To: Healeys Mailing List
Subject: RE: Overdrive
Either good luck has been with me or my overdrive unit is extraordinarily
strong. I probably spend more time in 2nd overdrive than any other gear -
especially when driving around town.
In town, 2nd overdrive is ideal with my totally mismatched gear ratios
(standard transmission (car came from factory without OD), junk yard OD
self installed and modified to 28% , 3.54 rear end). At 25 MPH, 2nd
standard is 3200 RPM, a little too high for me, and 3rd standard is 1900
RPM, a little too low. 2nd OD splits the difference at 2600 RPM,
reasonable torque for acceleration and it sounds good (see thread on
exhaust tone). 30 MPH is 4000/3000/2250 in 2S/2OD/3S respectively. (All
figures approximate)
I have used 2nd OD in hilly and mountain driving, hill climbs (oops!
Uphill Slaloms for insurance purposes), autocrosses, and speed runs. I use
it when entering the Interstate. I use it when downshifting to reduce
speed. My sequence for acceleration is 1st, 2nd, 2nd OD, 3rd, 3rd OD, 4th
OD (3rd OD and 4th Std are only 100 RPM apart). This, in effect, gives me
a six speed trany. I LOVE 2ND OVERDRIVE!
The consequences of a mistaken shift into reverse have not been ignored. I
have installed a normally ON switch opposite the cut off switch on the
trany. When I move the gear shift lever into the reverse position, this
added switch disengages the OD if I have neglected to do so.
I'm keeping my fingers crossed but I have put around 100,000 miles on this
set-up and it hasn't failed me yet. Use your own discretion when
considering bypassing the cut off switch. Based upon comments from other
listers forecasting doom for your overdrive , you may not consider the
benefits worth the risk.
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA
1967 3000 MKIII HBJ8L39031
> [Original Message]
> From: Jim LeBlanc <jleblanc@midsouth.rr.com>
> To: Frenken, Eric <efrenken@lctax.de>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 2/16/2004 10:47:13 AM
> Subject: RE: Overdrive
>
> I purposefully modified my system to disengage when the dashboard switch
> is flipped. I either put in the clutch or depress the throttle. Not too
> hard to get used to.
>
> The problem is engaging overdrive in 2nd gear. This is bad and you need
> to verify that the switch on the side of the transmission is in good
> working order. It sounds as if somebody bypassed this switch. The
> problem is not only with engaging overdrive in 2nd, it is 1st, 2nd and
> reverse. Any of those choices kill the overdrive unit.
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Jim LeBlanc
> 1956 100-M
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Frenken, Eric
> Sent: Monday, February 16, 2004 5:06 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Overdrive
>
> Hi listers, the overdrive on my BT7 engages/disengages promptly when I
> operate the overdrive switch without the throttle pedal being depressed.
> Now I read in a Road test done by 'Autocar' in 1964 that the overdrive
> is supposed to disengage only when the throttle is depressed a little
> bit, thus preventing jolting the transmission.
>
> To confirm this I took my manual and found in the overdrive section that
> the throttle has to be depressed at least a fifth of its way to
> 'release' the overdrive.
>
> About 25 years ago I had an MGB w/overdrive and I remember exactly the
> overdrive working the same way as the overdrive now on my AH. I have
> driven the MGB for about 2 years nearly everyday and when I sold the car
> the overdrive still was in good order without having it renewed or
> rebuilt.
>
> My question is, is it vital for the transmission that the overdrive will
> disengage only when the throttle is depressed slightly or is it just a
> matter of convenience for the driver?
>
> Is it possible to modify triggering of the overdrive in that way, that
> 2nd gear is working with overdrive as well? The background of my
> question is to close the 'gap' between 2nd and 3rd gear.
>
> Hope, my questions aren't too confusing as my English doesn't seem to
> 'work' very good today.
>
> Tks.
>
> Eric Frenken BT7 (ex '63 BJ7)
> Heinsberg/Germany
From "Neal Grotenhuis" <grotenhuis at comcast.net>
From: "Don Anglesey" <Don@anglesey.us>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2004 20:36:36 -0500
Subject: Synchro rings
Neal G.
61 BT7
From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: "Don Anglesey" <Don@anglesey.us>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2004 19:56:18 -0600
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note (Abarth)
Cheers,
Chris...checkbook open
BJ8
>
> I'll be looking forward to getting that Lempert Tailpipe to go with the
Lempert Rear End : )
>
> John
> '59 BN7
>
> Russ Staub <bbb11489@azboss.net> wrote:
> Rich,
>
> Wow! A real live Healey with an Abarth system still on it. It's like
> finding a 10,000 year old cave-man in a glacier scenario.
>
> Seriously, I had asked the list about Abarth exhausts for a Healey a few
> years ago, and didn't get a reply. I had begun to believe maybe I was
> mistaken and there was no such beast. But, this thread started by Mike
> Lempert has drawn a few of us out of the woodwork, who were lucky enough
> to share the same sound experience with our Healeys. Maybe there is yet
> a glimmer of hope that such a system could be spec'd and reproduced.
>
> Russ Staub
> '61 Bugeye
> '56 BN2
> '67 BJ8
> Mesa, AZ
>
> RAntal243@aol.com wrote:
>
> >.... w've also got three Abarths for your car." That exhaust system still
sings on
> >my Healey and I dread the day when it finally rusts out and can't be
> >replaced.
> >
> >
> >Rich Antal
From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "Don Anglesey" <Don@anglesey.us>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2004 21:38:02 -0500
Subject: Re: Hi from teh new guy
Why not join and contribute positively??
tom
> [Original Message]
> From: <busyrider@springmail.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 2/17/04 3:43:22 PM
> Subject: Re: Hi from teh new guy
>
> I can think of one: club politics and dues used to pay for expenses of
club officers and travel expenses.
>
> Fred Criswell
> Non-member
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: MBran89793@aol.com
>
>
> Some people are not inclined to join clubs, but I don't personally know
why.
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: "Don Anglesey" <Don@anglesey.us>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2004 21:55:02 -0500
Subject: Sending units
I have two sending units on the workbench. Not 100% sure where either came
from. One has FT5300/15 on the top plate and has two sweepers along the
resistor.
The other has FT5346/52 on the top plate and one sweeper along the resistor.
In addition, the float arm attachment point is on opposite sides.
Can anyone tell me what the fit/application is for each unit? I have a
FT5300/15 in the BN7, not sure what's in the BJ8. And do I recall that the
float should be on the forward side of the unit when installed?
TIA
Keith Pennell
From busyrider at springmail.com
From: "Don Anglesey" <Don@anglesey.us>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2004 22:06:22 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Subject: Re: Hi from teh new guy
Good luck. It sounds like you have a pretty good local club there in Ohio.
Fred Criswell
-----Original Message-----
From: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Sent: Feb 17, 2004 9:38 PM
To: "busyrider@springmail.com" <busyrider@springmail.com>,
healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Hi from teh new guy
If it wasn't for a few club "officers" there wouldn't be a club. Having
been (and still am) in that position a few times, I can't tell you how many
times I have pleaded for help from the membership to no avail, all the
while putting in my time and effort to develop a newsletter and plan
events------ALL----I might add, non-compensated. So, a few of the $$ to
these guys isn't all bad.
Why not join and contribute positively??
From "i erbs" <eyera3 at comcast.net>
From: "Don Anglesey" <Don@anglesey.us>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2004 19:40:55 -0800
Subject: RE: Hi from teh new guy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of busyrider@springmail.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2004 7:06 PM
To: tomfelts@earthlink.net; busyrider@springmail.com;
healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Hi from teh new guy
Tom,
I'm not looking for an arguement. The question was posed, why wouldn't
everyone join a club and I offered a simple answer. Your view, and
others, are completely correct and so is mine. You can disagree with it,
but many people don't join organizations because many have become little
fiefdoms. It's not just some of the car clubs. It happens in non-car
clubs too. If you have a nice local Heley club, that's great. My area
doesn't. So there's not much point in sending dues to a national club
for a newsletter, especially in these modern times with the internet.
I've seen issues of some of the big Healey clubs and they are nice to an
extent but I don't see what the value ius for me to send $50 a year to
get a newsletter year after year after year. Also I like other British
cars and not just Healeys, so to send dues to a club that focuses on
just one car marque wouldn't do much for me. But for the people that
like the clubs that great. They should join and get involved, like you
sa! id in your email. That's pretty positive advice. As for your
statement that most members that don't volunteer, I can't answer that
question. Maybe they joined just to get the newsletter. I have observed
some clubs that are held in tight control by the officers and maybe they
don't exactly discourage members from getting more involved but they
don't warm themselves to the possibility of yielding control. That's not
directed towards anyone or any Healey club, it's just a further
observation about clubs in general. Like I said, I provided an answer. I
didn't pose the question.
Good luck. It sounds like you have a pretty good local club there in
Ohio.
Fred Criswell
-----Original Message-----
From: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Sent: Feb 17, 2004 9:38 PM
To: "busyrider@springmail.com" <busyrider@springmail.com>,
healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Hi from teh new guy
If it wasn't for a few club "officers" there wouldn't be a club. Having
been (and still am) in that position a few times, I can't tell you how
many times I have pleaded for help from the membership to no avail, all
the while putting in my time and effort to develop a newsletter and plan
events------ALL----I might add, non-compensated. So, a few of the $$ to
these guys isn't all bad.
Why not join and contribute positively??
From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: "Don Anglesey" <Don@anglesey.us>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2004 23:22:16 -0600
Subject: Clubs and Families WAS: Hi from teh new guy
I understand exactly what you are saying about kids as I am 35 and have a 22
month old, so right now I feel that my club participation part of the
hobbies has to be exclusive of my family.
It is really sad since I was raised in car clubs. My dad had the 46 Ford he
had in college when I was little, and bought and restored a 36 Chevy 2 ton
when I was very young. We were in a multi-make classic club and when we
went to shows and picnics all of the time.
When I was ~10 he bought a 26 Model T Ford. He was about the age I am now
when he got the car, and the Healey is about as old as the Model T was then.
Luckily, he hooked up with a bunch of guys who had the attitude to drive
them and have fun. They stared a chapter of the National Model T Club and
off they went.
The club never missed a monthly tour, usually only a 50 to 100 mile day
trip, and always kid friendly. Each tour would have 5 to 10 T's plus a few
real cars and we kids were everywhere. The trips were a simple format,
start at point A, go to point B, eat and look at something neat, go back to
point A a different way. Also nearly every year we would hold one "Great
Adventure" where we took a 3 day overnight trip expanding that formula and
driving from point A to B to C ect... One year he put almost 5000 miles on
the car touring, and I don't think there was a back road within 200 miles
from home I haven't been on.
The members actively brought new guys to events, and the bug spread with
several getting cars and becoming active club members. The events never
cost too much money, and when there were overnights, there usually were
those that stayed with other members. The big events every year were two
big camping trips that always had 75 to 100 people. My friends were always
invited.
When I was 13, they helped me find all of the parts to build my '23
speedster, and when I was 15 I was a club officer. When I was off at
college and my Sprite lost oil pressure on a Mississippi highway dead
between home and school, a club member was who came with the trailer and got
me and the car home. That club was the backdrop of my young life and the
members are still part of my extended family.
Unfortunately, I don't think that part of my life will be recreated with my
love of Healeys. Even with 4 seats, they are not very family friendly. And
from the average age of the folks I have met with Healeys, there aren't a
lot of kids. I would love to have a Healey camping trip, but I don't think
this is the crowd. (I have ideas for this if anyone is interested!!) Once
the car returns from the paint shop, the plan is to have it on the road, and
I will take my daughter with me as much as possible, but how many club
events are kid appropriate?
I just joined the local club, so please realize that my comments do not
reflect on the club here. The people here seem to be a great bunch of
people, plus there have been a couple of kids at the monthly business
meeting, so I have high hopes! Certainly when Zoe is older, I know I can
drag her to breakfast, but I still would love to have the Healey inspire the
sense of adventure that cars did in me (and my friends) when I was a kid.
As for helpful and friendly, I have never been around as good of a bunch of
people as when I was a member of the NTAHC. I can never fully express how
much I appreciated the welcome and help we got from the Dallas crowd.
Patton
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of i erbs
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2004 9:41 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Hi from teh new guy
On the subject of joining or not. I have belonged and lapsed my membership
in my local club a number of times over the last 12 years. I lapse because
with the exception of a few people I have never felt welcome. Although I am
just shy of 50 I have a 12 and 8 year old. No one else has young kids. My
wife and I have tried many times to join in in activities, but having kids
has made it difficult. I have never had anyone help me when asked, accept to
pay a member who is a British car mechanic. I try again every few years to
see if I/ve grown up or if younger folks have joined. I am not in a position
to stay at expensive resorts or free to go on weekend trips. This listserve
is my club. I do belong to a national club (thanks Reid) But do not see
joining locally again for a while. I Erbs BT7
From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: "Don Anglesey" <Don@anglesey.us>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2004 23:24:51 -0600
Subject: Clubs and Families WAS: Hi from the new guy
I understand exactly what you are saying about kids as I am 35 and have a 22
month old, so right now I feel that my club participation part of the
hobbies has to be exclusive of my family.
It is really sad since I was raised in car clubs. My dad had the 46 Ford he
had in college when I was little, and bought and restored a 36 Chevy 2 ton
when I was very young. We were in a multi-make classic club and when we
went to shows and picnics all of the time.
When I was ~10 he bought a 26 Model T Ford. He was about the age I am now
when he got the car, and the Healey is about as old as the Model T was then.
Luckily, he hooked up with a bunch of guys who had the attitude to drive
them and have fun. They stared a chapter of the National Model T Club and
off they went.
The club never missed a monthly tour, usually only a 50 to 100 mile day
trip, and always kid friendly. Each tour would have 5 to 10 T's plus a few
real cars and we kids were everywhere. The trips were a simple format,
start at point A, go to point B, eat and look at something neat, go back to
point A a different way. Also nearly every year we would hold one "Great
Adventure" where we took a 3 day overnight trip expanding that formula and
driving from point A to B to C ect... One year he put almost 5000 miles on
the car touring, and I don't think there was a back road within 200 miles
from home I haven't been on.
The members actively brought new guys to events, and the bug spread with
several getting cars and becoming active club members. The events never
cost too much money, and when there were overnights, there usually were
those that stayed with other members. The big events every year were two
big camping trips that always had 75 to 100 people. My friends were always
invited.
When I was 13, they helped me find all of the parts to build my '23
speedster, and when I was 15 I was a club officer. When I was off at
college and my Sprite lost oil pressure on a Mississippi highway dead
between home and school, a club member was who came with the trailer and got
me and the car home. That club was the backdrop of my young life and the
members are still part of my extended family.
Unfortunately, I don't think that part of my life will be recreated with my
love of Healeys. Even with 4 seats, they are not very family friendly. And
from the average age of the folks I have met with Healeys, there aren't a
lot of kids. I would love to have a Healey camping trip, but I don't think
this is the crowd. (I have ideas for this if anyone is interested!!) Once
the car returns from the paint shop, the plan is to have it on the road, and
I will take my daughter with me as much as possible, but how many club
events are kid appropriate?
I just joined the local club, so please realize that my comments do not
reflect on the club here. The people here seem to be a great bunch of
people, plus there have been a couple of kids at the monthly business
meeting, so I have high hopes! Certainly when Zoe is older, I know I can
drag her to breakfast, but I still would love to have the Healey inspire the
sense of adventure that cars did in me (and my friends) when I was a kid.
As for helpful and friendly, I have never been around as good of a bunch of
people as when I was a member of the NTAHC. I can never fully express how
much I appreciated the welcome and help we got from the Dallas crowd.
Patton
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of i erbs
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2004 9:41 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Hi from teh new guy
On the subject of joining or not. I have belonged and lapsed my membership
in my local club a number of times over the last 12 years. I lapse because
with the exception of a few people I have never felt welcome. Although I am
just shy of 50 I have a 12 and 8 year old. No one else has young kids. My
wife and I have tried many times to join in in activities, but having kids
has made it difficult. I have never had anyone help me when asked, accept to
pay a member who is a British car mechanic. I try again every few years to
see if I/ve grown up or if younger folks have joined. I am not in a position
to stay at expensive resorts or free to go on weekend trips. This listserve
is my club. I do belong to a national club (thanks Reid) But do not see
joining locally again for a while. I Erbs BT7
From "ROBERT HAY" <jerryhay at msn.com>
From: "Don Anglesey" <Don@anglesey.us>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 01:56:10 -0500
Subject: Dallas
Jerry Hay
BT7
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
SLATE2.jpg]
From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: "Don Anglesey" <Don@anglesey.us>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 02:25:16 EST
Subject: Re: 100 For Sale
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Don Anglesey" <Don@anglesey.us>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 06:13:25 EST
Subject: Re: Hi from teh new guy
> If you have a nice local Heley club, that's great. My area doesn't. So
> there's not much point in sending dues to a national club for a newsletter,
Fred--
Why don't you consider starting one--the benefits to you and others will be
immeasureable.
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
Capital Area AHC
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Don Anglesey" <Don@anglesey.us>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 06:00:42 -0600
Subject: Re: Dallas
From jomar healey <ah53 at yahoo.com>
From: "Don Anglesey" <Don@anglesey.us>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 05:26:27 -0800 (PST)
Subject: clubs and Kids
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Mail SpamGuard - Read only the mail you want.
From "M Lempert" <mlempert at bellsouth.net>
From: "Don Anglesey" <Don@anglesey.us>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 10:50:25 -0500
Subject: Exhaust Note, Part II (kind of long and rambling)
First, this perfect Healey sound idea continues to be a very subjective
thing. Just think, if someone had said he remembers having seen the most
beautiful woman..... what would we all be imagining she looked like ? I
suspect there would be many different images in our collective minds.
Myself, I would
be thinking of my wife - who, by the way, always reads my email. Anyway,
I think you get the idea. I believe we might actually be closer to a
common appreciation than with most other subjects, especially women.
Russ Staub brought up how things tend to bring you back in time. I had been
thinking the very same thing. Memories are very powerful and some things
can trigger our flashbacks through sound, smell, or taste. Much of who we
are today is the result of "where-we-were-when". Although we often remember
things as better than they actually were, we all still choose to remember
them that way. In the case of the Healey's exhaust note, we remember it
as having been great and we still believe that today, and can prove it.
While it seems most of us prefer a louder system, with improved flow, a
few would opt for quieter - especially at highway speed. I suspect it's
more an issue of being sensitive to noise than not having an appreciation
for the great sound. While I can understand that there are different views
on just about anything, and we enjoy our cars in different ways, I myself
enjoy the sound effects. However, I think we might be able to satisfy most
with a little ingenuity, i.e.. Steve Gerow's comment.
I was surprised to hear so much about the Abarth system. If there is a
consensus, it's the Abarth that seems to bring back the best memories. I
think that's the system I'd like to learn more about - at least in terms of
dimensions and internal design. The challenge will be finding a system for
dissection.
I have heard many times that the stainless systems tend to sound tinny. I
suspect this might be due to them using a thinner gauge metal, which it can
get away with because of the strength and durability of the material. I
would say that the key would be to use a heavier gauge SS, except that it
might then become cost prohibitive as SS is relatively expensive. I would
normally lean toward the SS for
its longevity, but I would want to produce an affordable system, so at
this time I'm more
inclined to go with the mild steel.
Jim LeBlanc and Rick "Wilko" brought things down to a more simple approach.
There is, after all, known technology out there that can be acquired to
help understand sound dynamics. Bill Lawrence suggested a more
sophisticated,
high tech approach that reminded me too much of my last career to take
seriously. I think Bill might have been having one of "those evenings".
All in good fun, Bill.
Chris Dimmock spoke of an interesting system down under that I'd like to
learn more about. Unfortunately it costs $1800 AUS, which is inconsistent
with my affordability goal. Still, there may be learning's to be had.
Now, if I were to design one today, here is the first pass of what it
might look like in a perfect world: It would be a heavy gauge mild steel
system with a free-flow design. It would utilize a larger diameter pipe.
It would include matching headers (extractors) as an option. The muffler
would take on a thinner (height) profile. There would be segments that
would allow a side exit option - either permanent or on demand. It would
have flanges at all joints (and maybe gaskets) for leak control and easier
removal. It would allow for the addition of a silencer at the point of
exit. It might come with heat shielding on top of the muffler. And it's
mounting tabs must line up with the original positions. Oh yes, and we
can't forget that it would most certainly result in concours deductions.
There are other considerations that might compromise the otherwise perfect
exhaust system. For instance, having as few variations as possible for
cost control. There are at least three different configurations: 100, six
cylinder roadsters and BJ7 (were there two different configs here ?), and
BJ8. My inclination, unless I receive too much hate mail, would be to
eliminate the BJ8 rear portion. My understanding is that Mr. Healey only
added that part because he thought he had to. Now we're down to just two or
three configurations, and probably more can be done to remedy that.
Finally, yes I know, I'll be known not just for my rear, but also for
blowing hot air. Have fun.
For those of you who are still reading at this point, the following are
just some of my personal thoughts and feelings on the subject of exhaust
note and Healeys. I personally believe that sound is a big part of the
experience, although I realize that other peoples' experiences are
different. I always appreciated the sound of a performance car. I've had a
number of sports cars over the years, including a 260Z, Turbo Supra, and
Porsche Carrera. While all these cars outperformed the Healey in one or
more ways, none have I enjoyed as much as my Healey(s). I think a lot of
it has to do with sound, and in my opinion nothing sounds as good as a Big
Healey. Truthfully, although I do like the styling of the car, I probably
wouldn't own one if it was as quiet as my Supra. I can really relate to the
guys that enjoy making noise in tunnels and setting off car alarms, as
juvenile as it may sound.
Anyone have a spare Abarth hanging around ?
Regards,
Mike Lempert
From "Gary Williams" <gwilliams54 at hotmail.com>
From: "Don Anglesey" <Don@anglesey.us>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 08:31:23 -0800
Subject: BJ8 in Seattle?
GW
_________________________________________________________________
Dream of owning a home? Find out how in the First-time Home Buying Guide.
http://special.msn.com/home/firsthome.armx
From David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Don Anglesey" <Don@anglesey.us>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 08:49:48 -0800
Subject: Re: Synchro rings
> I replaced my synchros with standard brass rings in my side shifter ~5000
> miles ago, and now need to shift slower into 3rd from any other gear, or it
> will grind a bit. Very disappointing. The tranny is still out of the car
> (just rebuilt the OD), so a replacement seems in order. I have heard that
> the BJ8 steel synchros are better, more durable, (more $)etc, and are a
> direct replacement. Comments?
>
> Neal G.
> 61 BT7
NO the steel syncros are a different angle and will not work correctly on
the earlier transmission with the bronze syncros.
I have covered this several times before, there are two styles of syncros
available and one of them is what you have and theye only lasst a short
time. We have a special set of hardened syncros available we have been using
these for many years and had very good luck with them.
--
--
David Nock
NEW E-mail Addresses!!!
David Nock, Technical Questions healeydoc@sbcglobal.net
Sheila Nock-Huggins, Parts Questions britishcardoc@sbcglobal.net
British Car Specialists 2060 N. Wilson Way Stockton CA 95205
Phone 209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030
http://www.britishcarspecialists.com
From gilmour at chesapeake.net
From: "Don Anglesey" <Don@anglesey.us>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 17:02:20 GMT
Subject: BJ8 on ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?
ViewItem&category=6023&item=2461057250
------------------------------------------------------------------
This email message was sent using web-based email services provided by
Chesapeake.Net
Internet Services.
http://www.chesapeake.net/
From "matt wilson" <mwilson18 at cox.net>
From: "Don Anglesey" <Don@anglesey.us>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 09:34:56 -0800
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note, Part II (kind of long and rambling)
"Make a Tiger out of your Austin Healey"
"If you want your Healey to hustle there's nothing like an Abarth
Free-Exhaust System to stretch the mileage while it squeezes the seconds in
acceleration. You'll discover the big difference in driving pleasure will
bring back the thrill of your first "pedal-down-to-the-floor" run! You'll
do this with amazing fuel economy, too. And fear of bumps will be a thing
of the past because the Abarth gives you important extra inches in ground
clearance. In short, it's Abarth for improved performance and greater
economy!"
"$59.50 for Model AH-306 for the 3000 & 100-6"
"$24.95 for Model AH-200 for the Sprite & MG-Midget"
Mike if you send me your address I'll send you this magazine. Just do me a
favor... make a copy and send it back :)
Best regards,
Matt Wilson-
1960 BT7
----- Original Message -----
From: "M Lempert" <mlempert@bellsouth.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 18, 2004 7:50 AM
Subject: Exhaust Note, Part II (kind of long and rambling)
> Wow, what a great response. Thank you to everyone that contributed. I
> heard lots of great thoughts and suggestions, and a few memories thrown
in.
> I'll try to summarize and expand on my thinking on the subject. Please
> forgive
> me if I didn't capture all comments - there were so many
>
> First, this perfect Healey sound idea continues to be a very subjective
> thing. Just think, if someone had said he remembers having seen the most
> beautiful woman..... what would we all be imagining she looked like ? I
> suspect there would be many different images in our collective minds.
> Myself, I would
> be thinking of my wife - who, by the way, always reads my email.
Anyway,
> I think you get the idea. I believe we might actually be closer to a
> common appreciation than with most other subjects, especially women.
>
> Russ Staub brought up how things tend to bring you back in time. I had
been
> thinking the very same thing. Memories are very powerful and some things
> can trigger our flashbacks through sound, smell, or taste. Much of who
we
> are today is the result of "where-we-were-when". Although we often
remember
> things as better than they actually were, we all still choose to remember
> them that way. In the case of the Healey's exhaust note, we remember it
> as having been great and we still believe that today, and can prove it.
>
> While it seems most of us prefer a louder system, with improved flow, a
> few would opt for quieter - especially at highway speed. I suspect it's
> more an issue of being sensitive to noise than not having an appreciation
> for the great sound. While I can understand that there are different
views
> on just about anything, and we enjoy our cars in different ways, I
myself
> enjoy the sound effects. However, I think we might be able to satisfy
most
> with a little ingenuity, i.e.. Steve Gerow's comment.
>
> I was surprised to hear so much about the Abarth system. If there is a
> consensus, it's the Abarth that seems to bring back the best memories. I
> think that's the system I'd like to learn more about - at least in terms
of
> dimensions and internal design. The challenge will be finding a system
for
> dissection.
>
> I have heard many times that the stainless systems tend to sound tinny. I
> suspect this might be due to them using a thinner gauge metal, which it
can
> get away with because of the strength and durability of the material. I
> would say that the key would be to use a heavier gauge SS, except that it
> might then become cost prohibitive as SS is relatively expensive. I would
> normally lean toward the SS for
> its longevity, but I would want to produce an affordable system, so at
> this time I'm more
> inclined to go with the mild steel.
>
> Jim LeBlanc and Rick "Wilko" brought things down to a more simple
approach.
> There is, after all, known technology out there that can be acquired to
> help understand sound dynamics. Bill Lawrence suggested a more
> sophisticated,
> high tech approach that reminded me too much of my last career to take
> seriously. I think Bill might have been having one of "those evenings".
> All in good fun, Bill.
>
> Chris Dimmock spoke of an interesting system down under that I'd like to
> learn more about. Unfortunately it costs $1800 AUS, which is
inconsistent
> with my affordability goal. Still, there may be learning's to be had.
>
> Now, if I were to design one today, here is the first pass of what it
> might look like in a perfect world: It would be a heavy gauge mild steel
> system with a free-flow design. It would utilize a larger diameter pipe.
> It would include matching headers (extractors) as an option. The muffler
> would take on a thinner (height) profile. There would be segments that
> would allow a side exit option - either permanent or on demand. It would
> have flanges at all joints (and maybe gaskets) for leak control and easier
> removal. It would allow for the addition of a silencer at the point of
> exit. It might come with heat shielding on top of the muffler. And it's
> mounting tabs must line up with the original positions. Oh yes, and we
> can't forget that it would most certainly result in concours deductions.
>
> There are other considerations that might compromise the otherwise perfect
> exhaust system. For instance, having as few variations as possible for
> cost control. There are at least three different configurations: 100,
six
> cylinder roadsters and BJ7 (were there two different configs here ?), and
> BJ8. My inclination, unless I receive too much hate mail, would be to
> eliminate the BJ8 rear portion. My understanding is that Mr. Healey only
> added that part because he thought he had to. Now we're down to just two
or
> three configurations, and probably more can be done to remedy that.
>
> Finally, yes I know, I'll be known not just for my rear, but also for
> blowing hot air. Have fun.
>
> For those of you who are still reading at this point, the following are
> just some of my personal thoughts and feelings on the subject of exhaust
> note and Healeys. I personally believe that sound is a big part of the
> experience, although I realize that other peoples' experiences are
> different. I always appreciated the sound of a performance car. I've had
a
> number of sports cars over the years, including a 260Z, Turbo Supra,
and
> Porsche Carrera. While all these cars outperformed the Healey in one or
> more ways, none have I enjoyed as much as my Healey(s). I think a lot of
> it has to do with sound, and in my opinion nothing sounds as good as a
Big
> Healey. Truthfully, although I do like the styling of the car, I
probably
> wouldn't own one if it was as quiet as my Supra. I can really relate to
the
> guys that enjoy making noise in tunnels and setting off car alarms, as
> juvenile as it may sound.
>
> Anyone have a spare Abarth hanging around ?
>
> Regards,
> Mike Lempert
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Don Anglesey" <Don@anglesey.us>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 13:14:31 -0500
Subject: Re: Clubs and Families WAS: Hi from the new guy
Why does it seem like I remember the break downs the most? :)
ans: Camaraderie
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: "'i erbs'" <eyera3@comcast.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 18, 2004 12:24 AM
Subject: Clubs and Families WAS: Hi from the new guy
> This is long and has flimsy Healey ties so please feel free to delete....
> -------------------
> I Erbs,
>
> I understand exactly what you are saying about kids as I am 35 and have a
22
> month old, so right now I feel that my club participation part of the
> hobbies has to be exclusive of my family.
>
> It is really sad since I was raised in car clubs. My dad had the 46 Ford
he
> had in college when I was little, and bought and restored a 36 Chevy 2 ton
> when I was very young. We were in a multi-make classic club and when we
> went to shows and picnics all of the time.
>
> When I was ~10 he bought a 26 Model T Ford. He was about the age I am now
> when he got the car, and the Healey is about as old as the Model T was
then.
> Luckily, he hooked up with a bunch of guys who had the attitude to drive
> them and have fun. They stared a chapter of the National Model T Club and
> off they went.
>
> The club never missed a monthly tour, usually only a 50 to 100 mile day
> trip, and always kid friendly. Each tour would have 5 to 10 T's plus a
few
> real cars and we kids were everywhere. The trips were a simple format,
> start at point A, go to point B, eat and look at something neat, go back
to
> point A a different way. Also nearly every year we would hold one "Great
> Adventure" where we took a 3 day overnight trip expanding that formula and
> driving from point A to B to C ect... One year he put almost 5000 miles
on
> the car touring, and I don't think there was a back road within 200 miles
> from home I haven't been on.
>
> The members actively brought new guys to events, and the bug spread with
> several getting cars and becoming active club members. The events never
> cost too much money, and when there were overnights, there usually were
> those that stayed with other members. The big events every year were two
> big camping trips that always had 75 to 100 people. My friends were
always
> invited.
>
> When I was 13, they helped me find all of the parts to build my '23
> speedster, and when I was 15 I was a club officer. When I was off at
> college and my Sprite lost oil pressure on a Mississippi highway dead
> between home and school, a club member was who came with the trailer and
got
> me and the car home. That club was the backdrop of my young life and the
> members are still part of my extended family.
>
> Unfortunately, I don't think that part of my life will be recreated with
my
> love of Healeys. Even with 4 seats, they are not very family friendly.
And
> from the average age of the folks I have met with Healeys, there aren't a
> lot of kids. I would love to have a Healey camping trip, but I don't
think
> this is the crowd. (I have ideas for this if anyone is interested!!) Once
> the car returns from the paint shop, the plan is to have it on the road,
and
> I will take my daughter with me as much as possible, but how many club
> events are kid appropriate?
>
> I just joined the local club, so please realize that my comments do not
> reflect on the club here. The people here seem to be a great bunch of
> people, plus there have been a couple of kids at the monthly business
> meeting, so I have high hopes! Certainly when Zoe is older, I know I can
> drag her to breakfast, but I still would love to have the Healey inspire
the
> sense of adventure that cars did in me (and my friends) when I was a kid.
>
> As for helpful and friendly, I have never been around as good of a bunch
of
> people as when I was a member of the NTAHC. I can never fully express how
> much I appreciated the welcome and help we got from the Dallas crowd.
>
>
> Patton
From "Lyle Matson" <medlabinc at msn.com>
From: Lyle Matson
To: David Nock
Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 10:54:41 -0800
Subject: D Nock
David Nock
British Car Specialists 2060 N. Wilson Way Stockton CA 95205
Phone 209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030
02/18/2004
Hi David:
Did you see my e-mail the other day. I'm wondering if BCS has a cotter
key and grease zerks set - or can put together a set. BCS did rotor,
caliper, king pin as unit rebuild early winter. Getting ready to reinstall.
(BJ8)
Also what do you get for a 3:54 (? - the non OD gears anyway) ring gear
and pinion (BJ8).
Dick Matson / Wenatchee, WA
From "Rick" <webmasterrick at comcast.net>
From: Lyle Matson
To: David Nock
Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 12:56:18 -0600
Subject: Re: 100 For Sale
If you would like me to put up on Ed's site, send me pics & info.
Dean Turner's BJ-8 (beautiful) was just installed at
www.justbrits.com
Rick
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: Lyle Matson
To: David Nock
Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 11:57:40 -0800
Subject: Clutch Conversion Questions
From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: Lyle Matson
To: David Nock
Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 12:08:34 -0800 (PST)
Subject: re. Synchro rings
Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2004 20:36:36 -0500
From: "Neal Grotenhuis" <grotenhuis@comcast.net>
Subject:
I replaced my synchros with standard brass rings in my
side shifter ~5000 miles ago, and now need to shift
slower into 3rd from any other gear, or it will grind
a bit. Very disappointing. The tranny is still out
of the car (just rebuilt the OD), so a replacement
seems in order. I have heard that the BJ8 steel
synchros are better, more durable, (more $)etc, and
are a direct replacement. Comments?
Neal G.
61 BT7
__________________________________
Yahoo! Mail SpamGuard - Read only the mail you want.
http://antispam.yahoo.com/tools
From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: Lyle Matson
To: David Nock
Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 12:16:31 -0800
Subject: RE: Clutch Conversion Questions
From Stella67 at aol.com
From: Lyle Matson
To: David Nock
Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 16:01:11 -0500
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note, Part II (kind of long and rambling)
Having driven the Healey to Canada, Florida and Colorado from Virginia, the
long, loud roar does get a bit tiring especially on my BT7. The BJ8 was pretty
good and in many ways a better long distance car - but there is just something
about the roadster.
I have an abrath type (can't remember who made it) exhaust I installed prior to
a trip to Nova Scotia - unfortunately it came off when I drove off the boat. I
welded it up and was back on the road but took it off because it set too low.
It had a great sound and because of that, it's still in my basement.
Have fun!
From "norman cay" <normcay at earthlink.net>
From: Lyle Matson
To: David Nock
Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 13:33:32 -0800
Subject: King Pin Reamer
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: Lyle Matson
To: David Nock
Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 14:04:47 -0800
Subject: Clutch Conversion Question Part 2
I wonder if it's possible to use a Toyota Supra pressure plate on a Healey
flywheel. One would think it would be cheaper and better quality
The stock coil spring clutch plate setup is just a little thick for the
Toyota TO bearing on the Smitty setup, I think, as all the
release/engagement takes place right at the first part of the pedal travel.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Lyle Matson
To: David Nock
Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 17:23:08 EST
Subject: Re: Clutch Conversion Question Part 2
> I run a Smitty 5 speed with his slightly thicker Toyota disc.
>
>
I installed a BJ8 pressure plate and disc--the diapraghm's action is much
smoother than the original spring pressure plate.
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: Lyle Matson
To: David Nock
Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 15:35:52 -0800
Subject: Re: D Nock
Not sure how this message go onto the list, but it did.
I have found a couple more of the 3:545 diff assemblies - believe it or not,
the last one came out of an old Morris Isis here in Victoria! These are
complete - ready to bolt into a Healey rear axle housing. They are
available for sale if there is any interest. Contact me off list for
particulars.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BT7 tri-carb
BJ8 (3:545 equipped)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lyle Matson" <medlabinc@msn.com>
To: "David Nock BCS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 18, 2004 10:54 AM
Subject: Fw: D Nock
----- Original Message -----
From: Lyle Matson
To: David Nock
Cc: Dick Matson
Sent: Wednesday, February 18, 2004 8:45 AM
Subject: D Nock
David Nock
British Car Specialists 2060 N. Wilson Way Stockton CA 95205
Phone 209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030
02/18/2004
Hi David:
Did you see my e-mail the other day.-------------
Dick Matson / Wenatchee, WA
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: Lyle Matson
To: David Nock
Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 17:06:02 -0800
Subject: Re: BJ8 on ebay
"... The braking system was rebuilt including fitment of new reproduction brake
servo (booster) ..."
Anybody know if somebody's making new "Girling" repros, or would this be the
Lockheed replacement?
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: <gilmour@chesapeake.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 18, 2004 9:02 AM
Subject: BJ8 on ebay
> Is this the car that got kissed by the Lambo @ B/J?
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?
> ViewItem&category=6023&item=2461057250
From "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid at hotmail.com>
From: Lyle Matson
To: David Nock
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 01:31:34 +0000
Subject: Two Big Healeys Wanted
I just received this email message from a new AHCUSA (www.healey.org) member
in Australia. PLEASE RESPOND DIRECTLY to them if you can help. Thanks.
Reid Trummel
---------------------
CARS WANTED. Two Australians arriving for the California Healey Week in
April will pay top dollar for two good Healeys. Prefer any 3000 or, if
modified, manual transmission. Contact Alan at agerraty@bigpond.net.au or
011 61 7 5576 5560 (please check Australian time).
_________________________________________________________________
Watch high-quality video with fast playback at MSN Video. Free!
http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200365ave/direct/01/
From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: Lyle Matson
To: David Nock
Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 19:39:28 -0600
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note, Abarth
----- Original Message -----
From: <Stella67@aol.com>
To: ""M Lempert"" <mlempert@bellsouth.net>
Cc: ""Healey List"" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 18, 2004 3:01 PM
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note, Part II (kind of long and rambling)
> Unfortunately I don't have an extra Abarth hanging around (they were great
on my old Fiats) but I'd like one of the new designs when its ready -
besides being lucky enough to have owned Healeys for 30+ years, I drive a C5
Corvette on a daily basis. One of the things I love about my Vette is at
cruzing speeds it has just a very little growl. But at any speed, when I put
my foot into it, the exhaust note is that of a very loud, angry lion roar -
the cars next to you pay attention. It will wake you up and put a smile on
your face when the world is dull. I'd love to have a set up like that on my
Healey.
>
> Having driven the Healey to Canada, Florida and Colorado from Virginia,
the long, loud roar does get a bit tiring especially on my BT7. The BJ8 was
pretty good and in many ways a better long distance car - but there is just
something about the roadster.
>
> I have an abrath type (can't remember who made it) exhaust I installed
prior to a trip to Nova Scotia - unfortunately it came off when I drove off
the boat. I welded it up and was back on the road but took it off because it
set too low. It had a great sound and because of that, it's still in my
basement.
>
> Have fun!
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: Lyle Matson
To: David Nock
Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 18:28:48 -0800
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note, Abarth
That's what I have on my BJ8, would buy another in a heartbeat ...
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
Cc: ""Healey List"" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 18, 2004 5:39 PM
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note, Abarth
> Fiat bought Abarth before they stopped production of the exhausts do you
> suppose there is a chance original production specs exist somewhere in the
> bowels of the Fiat archives, anybody speak Italian?
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Lyle Matson
To: David Nock
Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 18:32:16 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Clutch Conversion Question Part 2
OEM parts for Japanese cars are notorious for how
expensive they are. I would do alot of research
around before assuming that Toyota (or their
aftermarket parts, which are benchmarked against OEM)
parts will be cheaper than an AP clutch. At the end
of the day the AP clutches really aren't all that
expensive, considering how small the production runs
are. Besides if you have to redrill your flywheel to
accept a Japanese pressure plate, you can add around
50 to 100 dollars to the price tag. If you buy an AP
BJ8 (or BN6) clutch you'll be doing your small part to
make sure these parts are kept in production.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- Steve Gerow <sgerow@singular.com> wrote:
> I run a Smitty 5 speed with his slightly thicker
> Toyota disc.
>
> I wonder if it's possible to use a Toyota Supra
> pressure plate on a Healey
> flywheel. One would think it would be cheaper and
> better quality
>
> The stock coil spring clutch plate setup is just a
> little thick for the
> Toyota TO bearing on the Smitty setup, I think, as
> all the
> release/engagement takes place right at the first
> part of the pedal travel.
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: Lyle Matson
To: David Nock
Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 19:30:13 -0800
Subject: Re: Clutch Conversion Question Part 2
>
> OEM parts for Japanese cars are notorious for how
> expensive they are.
From "Harlan Polk" <happolk at cox.net>
From: Lyle Matson
To: David Nock
Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 19:57:30 -0800
Subject: RE: Clutch Conversion Question Part 2
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Lyle Matson
To: David Nock
Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 20:09:35 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Two Big Healeys Wanted
Cheers & happy hunting to my lucky mates from down
under...
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- Reid Trummel <editor_reid@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Hi Team,
>
> I just received this email message from a new AHCUSA
> (www.healey.org) member
> in Australia. PLEASE RESPOND DIRECTLY to them if
> you can help. Thanks.
>
> Reid Trummel
> ---------------------
> CARS WANTED. Two Australians arriving for the
> California Healey Week in
> April will pay top dollar for two good Healeys.
> Prefer any 3000 or, if
> modified, manual transmission. Contact Alan at
> agerraty@bigpond.net.au or
> 011 61 7 5576 5560 (please check Australian time).
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
> Watch high-quality video with fast playback at MSN
> Video. Free!
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Lyle Matson
To: David Nock
Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 20:12:45 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Clutch Conversion Questions
If I'm not mistaken, the only change is you have to
switch from two locator pins to three locator pins,
otherwise the bolt pattern is identical. On the
otherhand, I have a 9-1/2 inch diaphram clutch on my
BJ8 that has a two pin pattern on it... if you can
believe that... maybe this was made for some other
british car... but it sure as hell fits right up the
the BJ8 (except for the pins of course).
Another option is to simply buy a BJ8 flywheel
exchange...
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- Steve Gerow <sgerow@singular.com> wrote:
> Would like to know if it's possible to use the BJ8
> diaphragm spring clutch
> with the earlier flywheel by drilling new mounting
> holes or whatever.
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: Lyle Matson
To: David Nock
Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 23:30:31 -0500
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note, Abarth
I have same on my BJ8. Been on there for 13 years. Have had to weld a
couple patches on the rear muff and one of the tips. Great sound. Not real
loud but mellow. Guess I am showing my age huh?
Keith Pennell
> Any chance the Abarth became the Ansa exhaust?
>
> That's what I have on my BJ8, would buy another in a heartbeat ...
>
>
> bs
From "F. Ronald Rader" <rader at interworld.net>
From: Lyle Matson
To: David Nock
Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 21:22:44 -0800
Subject: Re: BJ8 on ebay
At 09:02 AM 2/18/2004, gilmour@chesapeake.net wrote:
>Is this the car that got kissed by the Lambo @ B/J?
From "David" <dcrawfor at san.rr.com>
From: Lyle Matson
To: David Nock
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 09:43:42 -0800
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note, Abarth/Ansa
Nice site to visit.
David C
BN1
----- Original Message -----
From: Keith Pennell
To: Bob Spidell ; Greg Lemon
Cc: "Healey List"
Sent: Wednesday, February 18, 2004 8:30 PM
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note, Abarth
Bob,
I have same on my BJ8. Been on there for 13 years. Have had to weld a
couple patches on the rear muff and one of the tips. Great sound. Not
real
loud but mellow. Guess I am showing my age huh?
Keith Pennell
> Any chance the Abarth became the Ansa exhaust?
>
> That's what I have on my BJ8, would buy another in a heartbeat ...
>
>
> bs
From "Kurt Leslie" <kansl at net1plus.com>
From: Lyle Matson
To: David Nock
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 06:30:37 -0500
Subject: bt7
From James Sailer <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: Lyle Matson
To: David Nock
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 07:16:51 -0700
Subject: Re: Subject: Exhaust Note, Part II (kind of long and rambling)
I have to say I remember Abarth well and had a basic Abarth resonator on my
58 bugeye when I was but a lad.... No expereince with an Abarth on a Big
Healey myself but remember a buddy in the 70s with one on his....
I have however "modified" a Monza system to fit my BJ8.... it took some
tweeking, shortening here, lengthening there to make it exactly correct (in
my opinion ..) ending up exiting just past the rear bumber over-rider.... It
will do until I add tube headers to my BJ8 and a bigger bore system....
Cheers.
Jim Sailer 66 BJ8 .. Comin' along
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: Lyle Matson
To: David Nock
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 10:09:30 -0500
Subject: Re: bt7
Not sure what a speedometer pintion assembly is but I have a gold faced
speedo available for parts. Complete except for the metal casing, glass,
and the reset stem is rusted into. It is seized but could be disassembled
for the part you need I would think. Make me an offer!
Keith Pennell
> Anyone know where I can get a speedometer pinion assembly for 62 bt7
> overdrive .I haven't seen these in any cat. yet
> Kurt L. Mass.
From JBHawkes at aol.com
From: Lyle Matson
To: David Nock
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 10:14:37 EST
Subject: Nothing is ever easy when a Healey is involved!
So where do I get a tool to remove these plugs? Re-looked at my catalogs and
don't see anything that purports to be a plug removal tool.
Help!
TIA
Jim Hawkes
BN2 needing a gearbox oil change
From "Rick &7& Neves" <Rick at genomictechnologies.com>
From: Lyle Matson
To: David Nock
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 10:30:23 -0500
Subject: Re: Nothing is ever easy when a Healey is involved!
I just discovered this myself during my rebuild. www.rickneves.com
I found that the 3/8" is loose but will turn the fitting if its anyway loose
to start and seems to bring it tight enough when installing.
One thing you might try, just an idea, I haven't tried this myself, is... if
the fitting it too tight, and be real cautious when using the 3/8" drive. You
don't want to strip it! What I was thinking was to use a hex drive of the
correct size "or Close" and to grind down the opposing points to make it sort
of square. I don't think you'll have to grind down to much. Then you'll have a
nice custom made part.
Sincerely
Rick Neves
'56 BN-2
_._
----- Original Message -----
From: JBHawkes@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2004 10:14 AM
Subject: Nothing is ever easy when a Healey is involved!
Decided to change the oil in my BN2 gearbox and OD and check the
differential
oil for the first time. Two plugs to remove, both with square female
fittings. Have never seen a tool advertised by Moss, etc., to fit these
plugs, but
they must make them, so off to the auto store to buy a set. Sales rep, who
seems to know his stuff, says "all plugs are either 3/8 or 1/2 inch size and
a
standard socket driver will fit yours. Since I know a 3/8 won't work (I
tried
it), it's obvious that I need a 1/2 inch, which I buy. And guess what -
it's
too big. So the 3/8 inch is to small and the 1/2 inch is too big. So now
I'm
back to square one.
So where do I get a tool to remove these plugs? Re-looked at my catalogs
and
don't see anything that purports to be a plug removal tool.
Help!
TIA
Jim Hawkes
BN2 needing a gearbox oil change
From "Mr. Finespanner" <mrfinespanner at earthlink.net>
From: Lyle Matson
To: David Nock
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 10:36:51 -0600
Subject: Abarth/ANSA
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 08:30:42 EST
From: N0040@aol.com
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note (Abarth)
Dave,
I agree whole heartedly....
I had an Abarth in a previous (purchased in 1972) '65 BJ8 and it was a
wonderful sound.
I had ask a year or so if anyone remembers the Abarth name. It don't think
many people did. I believe the consensus was that they are no longer in
business, or at least not exhaust systems.
I think Abarth was quite popular in the Detroit, MI area in the '60s for all
types of cars, including a new product line called the "Mustang".
Anybody know of the demise or existence of Abarth exhaust systems?
Regards,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 10:27:02 -0700
From: Russ Staub <bbb11489@azboss.net>
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note (Abarth)
Rich,
Wow! A real live Healey with an Abarth system still on it. It's like
finding a 10,000 year old cave-man in a glacier scenario.
Seriously, I had asked the list about Abarth exhausts for a Healey a few
years ago, and didn't get a reply. I had begun to believe maybe I was
mistaken and there was no such beast. But, this thread started by Mike
Lempert has drawn a few of us out of the woodwork, who were lucky enough to
share the same sound experience with our Healeys. Maybe there is yet a
glimmer of hope that such a system could be spec'd and reproduced.
Russ Staub
'61 Bugeye
'56 BN2
'67 BJ8
Mesa, AZ
Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 18:28:48 -0800
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note, Abarth
Any chance the Abarth became the Ansa exhaust?
That's what I have on my BJ8, would buy another in a heartbeat ...
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: Lyle Matson
To: David Nock
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 07:47:21 -0800
Subject: RE: Nothing is ever easy when a Healey is involved!
Ken Freese
http://britishtool.com/index.htm
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: Lyle Matson
To: David Nock
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 07:59:54 -0800
Subject: Re: Abarth/ANSA
I had a gut feel there was a connection ... this just about "proves" it.
Mike L., it might be easier to broker a deal with Ansa than do all the
work from the ground up.
What a great List!
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mr. Finespanner" <mrfinespanner@earthlink.net>
To: <N0040@aol.com>
Cc: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; <bbb11489@azboss.net>;
<bspidell@pacbell.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2004 8:36 AM
Subject: Abarth/ANSA
>
> Bob, Russ, Bob, and list,
> I have been following this Abarth exhaust thread from a distance,
> and would like to chime in. The way I heard it, back when Abarth announced
> the exhaust discontinuation, John Peters of Sports and
> Classics took an Abarth system to ANSA Exhausts and asked to
> have the system duplicated and reproduced. ANSA came up with
> a perfect copy of the BJ8 Abarth, made from nice, thick steel and
> with the same look, sound, and performance. And they were sure
> schweeet! From the late 70's until the early 90's I fitted many of
> the ANSA systems to Healeys, buying them direct from ANSA in
> Georgia. The customers were always pleased, and the ANSAs
> looked, performed, and lasted better than any other system. About
> 10 years ago I called to get one and was informed that production
> had ceased due to lack of demand; they had one complete system
> left, which I purchased. At that time I asked about future availability.
> The ANSA man told me that the units were NLS but if they ever got enough
> orders to justify a new run it would be entirely possible since
> the production machinery still existed--it was not destroyed like it
> was in England. Unfortunately I do not have the resources to broker
> a big exhaust deal, but if somebody wanted to contact ANSA and get
> the necessary quantity information and then take orders they could
> have new ANSAs for Healeys made. I would guess ANSA would
> need a production run of at least 100 to justify the effort and expense,
> but that's only a guess. The latest ANSA catalog I have is from 1995,
> and in it the Healey system is listed at $229 for the front muffler pair
> and $203.50 for the resonator, retail. The wholesale price was $137
> and $122 respectively. The ANSA depot is in Macon, Georgia, (800) 841-9166;
> their web site is http://www.ansaautomotive.com/ansasport/ .
> They have also started making systems in stainless. So there is the info,
> if anyone (Jim? Mike?) with the time and $ wants to get some.
> Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
>
> Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 08:30:42 EST
> From: N0040@aol.com
> Subject: Re: Exhaust Note (Abarth)
>
> Dave,
> I agree whole heartedly....
> I had an Abarth in a previous (purchased in 1972) '65 BJ8 and it was a
> wonderful sound.
> I had ask a year or so if anyone remembers the Abarth name. It don't think
> many people did. I believe the consensus was that they are no longer in
> business, or at least not exhaust systems.
> I think Abarth was quite popular in the Detroit, MI area in the '60s for all
> types of cars, including a new product line called the "Mustang".
> Anybody know of the demise or existence of Abarth exhaust systems?
>
> Regards,
> Bob - BJ8
> Milford, MI
>
> Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 10:27:02 -0700
> From: Russ Staub <bbb11489@azboss.net>
> Subject: Re: Exhaust Note (Abarth)
>
> Rich,
>
> Wow! A real live Healey with an Abarth system still on it. It's like
> finding a 10,000 year old cave-man in a glacier scenario.
>
> Seriously, I had asked the list about Abarth exhausts for a Healey a few
> years ago, and didn't get a reply. I had begun to believe maybe I was
> mistaken and there was no such beast. But, this thread started by Mike
> Lempert has drawn a few of us out of the woodwork, who were lucky enough to
> share the same sound experience with our Healeys. Maybe there is yet a
> glimmer of hope that such a system could be spec'd and reproduced.
> Russ Staub
> '61 Bugeye
> '56 BN2
> '67 BJ8
> Mesa, AZ
>
>
> Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 18:28:48 -0800
> From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
> Subject: Re: Exhaust Note, Abarth
>
> Any chance the Abarth became the Ansa exhaust?
>
> That's what I have on my BJ8, would buy another in a heartbeat ...
>
>
> bs
> ********************************************
> Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
> '67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
> ********************************************
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: Lyle Matson
To: David Nock
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 08:01:33 -0800
Subject: Re: Nothing is ever easy when a Healey is involved!
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2004 7:14 AM
Subject: Nothing is ever easy when a Healey is involved!
> Decided to change the oil in my BN2 gearbox and OD and check the differential
> oil for the first time. Two plugs to remove, both with square female
> fittings. Have never seen a tool advertised by Moss, etc., to fit these
>plugs, but
> they must make them, so off to the auto store to buy a set. Sales rep, who
> seems to know his stuff, says "all plugs are either 3/8 or 1/2 inch size and
>a
> standard socket driver will fit yours. Since I know a 3/8 won't work (I
>tried
> it), it's obvious that I need a 1/2 inch, which I buy. And guess what - it's
> too big. So the 3/8 inch is to small and the 1/2 inch is too big. So now
>I'm
> back to square one.
>
> So where do I get a tool to remove these plugs? Re-looked at my catalogs and
> don't see anything that purports to be a plug removal tool.
>
> Help!
>
> TIA
>
> Jim Hawkes
> BN2 needing a gearbox oil change
From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: Lyle Matson
To: David Nock
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 10:09:24 -0600
Subject: RE: Nothing is ever easy when a Healey is involved!
Patton
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Freese, Ken
Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2004 9:47 AM
To: 'JBHawkes@aol.com'; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Nothing is ever easy when a Healey is involved!
Jim,
Look at this place I mentioned last week.
Ken Freese
http://britishtool.com/index.htm
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: Lyle Matson
To: David Nock
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 11:09:21 -0500
Subject: Re: Nothing is ever easy when a Healey is involved!
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: Lyle Matson
To: David Nock
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 09:38:55 -0700
Subject: Re: Nothing is ever easy when a Healey is involved!
It is pretty easy to grind a 1/2" tool down to the correct 7/16" square.
Quick & easy.
Dave Russell
BN2
JBHawkes@aol.com wrote:
> Decided to change the oil in my BN2 gearbox and OD and check the differential
> oil for the first time. Two plugs to remove, both with square female
> fittings. Have never seen a tool advertised by Moss, etc., to fit these
>plugs, but
> they must make them, so off to the auto store to buy a set. Sales rep, who
> seems to know his stuff, says "all plugs are either 3/8 or 1/2 inch size and
>a
> standard socket driver will fit yours. Since I know a 3/8 won't work (I
>tried
> it), it's obvious that I need a 1/2 inch, which I buy. And guess what - it's
> too big. So the 3/8 inch is to small and the 1/2 inch is too big. So now
>I'm
> back to square one.
>
> So where do I get a tool to remove these plugs? Re-looked at my catalogs and
> don't see anything that purports to be a plug removal tool.
>
> Help!
>
> TIA
>
> Jim Hawkes
> BN2 needing a gearbox oil change
From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 09:52:09 -0700
Subject: Nothing is ever easy when a Healey is involved!
> Decided to change the oil in my BN2 gearbox and OD and check the
differential
> oil for the first time. Two plugs to remove, both with square female
> fittings. Have never seen a tool advertised by Moss, etc., to fit these
plugs, but
> they must make them, so off to the auto store to buy a set. Sales rep,
who
> seems to know his stuff, says "all plugs are either 3/8 or 1/2 inch size
and a
> standard socket driver will fit yours. Since I know a 3/8 won't work (I
tried
> it), it's obvious that I need a 1/2 inch, which I buy. And guess what -
it's
> too big. So the 3/8 inch is to small and the 1/2 inch is too big. So
now I'm
> back to square one.
>
> So where do I get a tool to remove these plugs? Re-looked at my catalogs
and
> don't see anything that purports to be a plug removal tool.
From John Harper <AH at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 17:17:43 +0000
Subject: Re: Nothing is ever easy when a Healey is involved!
Jim
The original tool was just a short length, about 1 1/4" of 7/16" steel
bar. It should be easy to buy a length. You can then use an adjustable
spanner (shifter) or a socket with handle to rotate the plugs.
All the best
>Decided to change the oil in my BN2 gearbox and OD and check the differential
>oil for the first time. Two plugs to remove, both with square female
>fittings. Have never seen a tool advertised by Moss, etc., to fit
>these plugs, but
>they must make them, so off to the auto store to buy a set. Sales rep, who
>seems to know his stuff, says "all plugs are either 3/8 or 1/2 inch size and a
>standard socket driver will fit yours. Since I know a 3/8 won't work (I tried
>it), it's obvious that I need a 1/2 inch, which I buy. And guess what - it's
>too big. So the 3/8 inch is to small and the 1/2 inch is too big. So
>now I'm
>back to square one.
>
>So where do I get a tool to remove these plugs? Re-looked at my catalogs and
>don't see anything that purports to be a plug removal tool.
>
>Help!
>
>TIA
>
--
John Harper
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 11:49:16 -0800
Subject: Exhaust Rap
From David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 13:47:22 -0800
Subject: Re: Exhaust Rap
> Wonder if any of our Brit members have heard the Denis Welch exhaust?
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
YES every time I drive my car what you need??????
--
--
David Nock
NEW E-mail Addresses!!!
David Nock, Technical Questions healeydoc@sbcglobal.net
Sheila Nock-Huggins, Parts Questions britishcardoc@sbcglobal.net
British Car Specialists 2060 N. Wilson Way Stockton CA 95205
Phone 209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030
http://www.britishcarspecialists.com
From APPRAISE11 at aol.com
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 18:33:24 EST
Subject: drain plugs
mitch
1963 bj7
From "John Rued" <rudedoggg at earthlink.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 17:36:13 -0600
Subject: Re: Nothing is ever easy when a Healey is involved!
JR
----- Original Message -----
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2004 9:14 AM
Subject: Nothing is ever easy when a Healey is involved!
> Decided to change the oil in my BN2 gearbox and OD and check the
differential
> oil for the first time. Two plugs to remove, both with square female
> fittings. Have never seen a tool advertised by Moss, etc., to fit these
plugs, but
> they must make them, so off to the auto store to buy a set. Sales rep,
who
> seems to know his stuff, says "all plugs are either 3/8 or 1/2 inch size
and a
> standard socket driver will fit yours. Since I know a 3/8 won't work (I
tried
> it), it's obvious that I need a 1/2 inch, which I buy. And guess what -
it's
> too big. So the 3/8 inch is to small and the 1/2 inch is too big. So
now I'm
> back to square one.
>
> So where do I get a tool to remove these plugs? Re-looked at my catalogs
and
> don't see anything that purports to be a plug removal tool.
>
> Help!
>
> TIA
>
> Jim Hawkes
> BN2 needing a gearbox oil change
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 15:51:58 -0800
Subject: Re: Exhaust Rap
I wanted to hear from an owner whether it has an even-better than stock
sound and whether it's on the rowdier side or the smoother side (as is the
Monza).
How would you describe its sound?
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
> From: David Nock <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
> Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 13:47:22 -0800
> To: Steve Gerow <sgerow@singular.com>, Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: Exhaust Rap
>
> on 2/19/04 11:49 AM, Steve Gerow at sgerow@singular.com wrote:
>
>> Wonder if any of our Brit members have heard the Denis Welch exhaust?
>> --
>> Steve Gerow
>> Pasadena CA
>> 59 BN6
>
> YES every time I drive my car what you need??????
> --
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 17:51:14 -0600
Subject: Re: Nothing is ever easy when a Healey is involved!
From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 16:09:04 -0800
Subject: neat spark plug reading site
From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 19:42:36 -0500
Subject: Trans part needed.
James Lea
Rockport Maine
1962 BT7 II
From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 19:50:25 -0500
Subject: Re: drain plugs
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: <APPRAISE11@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2004 6:33 PM
Subject: drain plugs
| hey all
| i ran into the same
| problem. a friend of mine showed me a trick. we use the opposite end of a
chisal
| and turned with a vice grip. it works just fine. just thought i would
stick my 2
| cents in.
|
| mitch
| 1963 bj7
|
From "matt wilson" <mwilson18 at cox.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 16:53:20 -0800
Subject: Re: Abarth/ANSA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "Mr. Finespanner" <mrfinespanner@earthlink.net>; <N0040@aol.com>
Cc: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; <bbb11489@azboss.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2004 7:59 AM
Subject: Re: Abarth/ANSA
> Wow!
>
> I had a gut feel there was a connection ... this just about "proves" it.
>
> Mike L., it might be easier to broker a deal with Ansa than do all the
> work from the ground up.
>
> What a great List!
>
>
> bs
> ********************************************
> Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
> '67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
> ********************************************
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mr. Finespanner" <mrfinespanner@earthlink.net>
> To: <N0040@aol.com>
> Cc: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; <bbb11489@azboss.net>;
<bspidell@pacbell.net>
> Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2004 8:36 AM
> Subject: Abarth/ANSA
>
>
> >
> > Bob, Russ, Bob, and list,
> > I have been following this Abarth exhaust thread from a distance,
> > and would like to chime in. The way I heard it, back when Abarth
announced
> > the exhaust discontinuation, John Peters of Sports and
> > Classics took an Abarth system to ANSA Exhausts and asked to
> > have the system duplicated and reproduced. ANSA came up with
> > a perfect copy of the BJ8 Abarth, made from nice, thick steel and
> > with the same look, sound, and performance. And they were sure
> > schweeet! From the late 70's until the early 90's I fitted many of
> > the ANSA systems to Healeys, buying them direct from ANSA in
> > Georgia. The customers were always pleased, and the ANSAs
> > looked, performed, and lasted better than any other system. About
> > 10 years ago I called to get one and was informed that production
> > had ceased due to lack of demand; they had one complete system
> > left, which I purchased. At that time I asked about future
availability.
> > The ANSA man told me that the units were NLS but if they ever got enough
> > orders to justify a new run it would be entirely possible since
> > the production machinery still existed--it was not destroyed like it
> > was in England. Unfortunately I do not have the resources to broker
> > a big exhaust deal, but if somebody wanted to contact ANSA and get
> > the necessary quantity information and then take orders they could
> > have new ANSAs for Healeys made. I would guess ANSA would
> > need a production run of at least 100 to justify the effort and expense,
> > but that's only a guess. The latest ANSA catalog I have is from 1995,
> > and in it the Healey system is listed at $229 for the front muffler pair
> > and $203.50 for the resonator, retail. The wholesale price was $137
> > and $122 respectively. The ANSA depot is in Macon, Georgia, (800)
841-9166;
> > their web site is http://www.ansaautomotive.com/ansasport/ .
> > They have also started making systems in stainless. So there is the
info,
> > if anyone (Jim? Mike?) with the time and $ wants to get some.
> > Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
> >
> > Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 08:30:42 EST
> > From: N0040@aol.com
> > Subject: Re: Exhaust Note (Abarth)
> >
> > Dave,
> > I agree whole heartedly....
> > I had an Abarth in a previous (purchased in 1972) '65 BJ8 and it was a
> > wonderful sound.
> > I had ask a year or so if anyone remembers the Abarth name. It don't
think
> > many people did. I believe the consensus was that they are no longer in
> > business, or at least not exhaust systems.
> > I think Abarth was quite popular in the Detroit, MI area in the '60s for
all
> > types of cars, including a new product line called the "Mustang".
> > Anybody know of the demise or existence of Abarth exhaust systems?
> >
> > Regards,
> > Bob - BJ8
> > Milford, MI
> >
> > Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 10:27:02 -0700
> > From: Russ Staub <bbb11489@azboss.net>
> > Subject: Re: Exhaust Note (Abarth)
> >
> > Rich,
> >
> > Wow! A real live Healey with an Abarth system still on it. It's like
> > finding a 10,000 year old cave-man in a glacier scenario.
> >
> > Seriously, I had asked the list about Abarth exhausts for a Healey a few
> > years ago, and didn't get a reply. I had begun to believe maybe I was
> > mistaken and there was no such beast. But, this thread started by Mike
> > Lempert has drawn a few of us out of the woodwork, who were lucky enough
to
> > share the same sound experience with our Healeys. Maybe there is yet a
> > glimmer of hope that such a system could be spec'd and reproduced.
> > Russ Staub
> > '61 Bugeye
> > '56 BN2
> > '67 BJ8
> > Mesa, AZ
> >
> >
> > Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 18:28:48 -0800
> > From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
> > Subject: Re: Exhaust Note, Abarth
> >
> > Any chance the Abarth became the Ansa exhaust?
> >
> > That's what I have on my BJ8, would buy another in a heartbeat ...
> >
> >
> > bs
> > ********************************************
> > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
> > '67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
> > ********************************************
From David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 16:55:22 -0800
Subject: Re: Exhaust Rap
> David,
> My point was with all this discussion about recreating the Abarth / Ansa
> exhausts that maybe there is already a suitable replacement in the form of
> the DW system.
>
> I wanted to hear from an owner whether it has an even-better than stock
> sound and whether it's on the rowdier side or the smoother side (as is the
> Monza).
>
> How would you describe its sound?
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
>
>> From: David Nock <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
>> Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 13:47:22 -0800
>> To: Steve Gerow <sgerow@singular.com>, Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
>> Subject: Re: Exhaust Rap
>>
>> on 2/19/04 11:49 AM, Steve Gerow at sgerow@singular.com wrote:
>>
>>> Wonder if any of our Brit members have heard the Denis Welch exhaust?
>>> --
>>> Steve Gerow
>>> Pasadena CA
>>> 59 BN6
>>
>> YES every time I drive my car what you need??????
>> --
The system that i am using is the full header system with the side exit. It
is not at all close to any Abarth system. It works great and has a nice
rumble to it as well as the performance increase
--
--
David Nock
NEW E-mail Addresses!!!
David Nock, Technical Questions healeydoc@sbcglobal.net
Sheila Nock-Huggins, Parts Questions britishcardoc@sbcglobal.net
British Car Specialists 2060 N. Wilson Way Stockton CA 95205
Phone 209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030
http://www.britishcarspecialists.com
From Ken Mason <meditionm at netscape.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 17:17:51 -0800
Subject: Re: Nothing is ever easy when a Healey is involved!
JBHawkes@aol.com wrote:
>Decided to change the oil in my BN2 gearbox and OD and check the differential
>oil for the first time. Two plugs to remove, both with square female
>fittings. Have never seen a tool advertised by Moss, etc., to fit these
>plugs, but
>they must make them, so off to the auto store to buy a set. Sales rep, who
>seems to know his stuff, says "all plugs are either 3/8 or 1/2 inch size and a
>standard socket driver will fit yours. Since I know a 3/8 won't work (I tried
>it), it's obvious that I need a 1/2 inch, which I buy. And guess what - it's
>too big. So the 3/8 inch is to small and the 1/2 inch is too big. So now
>I'm
>back to square one.
>
>So where do I get a tool to remove these plugs? Re-looked at my catalogs and
>don't see anything that purports to be a plug removal tool.
>
>Help!
>
>TIA
>
>Jim Hawkes
>BN2 needing a gearbox oil change
From Ken Mason <meditionm at netscape.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 17:39:16 -0800
Subject: Heat shield follow up
Ken Mason
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 17:41:25 -0800
Subject: Re: Trans part needed.
The collar is supposed to be in two peices for easy installation onto the
mainshaft - they are retained by the recessed end of the retaining collar
(AEC 3485). They were available in three selective thicknesses - if yours
are not too badly worn, they can be re-used. Any of the Healey specialty
parts suppliers should have replacemets if necessary.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BT7 tri-carb
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2004 4:42 PM
Subject: Trans part needed.
The gearbox is now apart on the bench and the syncros are very worn. Other
than that, it is not in bad shape at all considering how many miles it must
have on it. I ordered the new syncros from Sport and Specialty in Illinois.
The few other parts I need are available from M*** except one. It is the a
collar for a bearing on the main shaft,number AEC3484 on page F.14 in the
3000
service parts list book. It looks like it is broken into two halves but it
could also be that it is made that way and just looks broken. If anyone is
familiar with this part, I would appreciate knowing if anyone has one used
or
if it is made in two pieces. I can make one from scratch but would prefer a
factory part if possible. It hit forty degrees today in the sun and I am
getting anxious to hear that Healey rumble again. It's been a long winter.
Thanks, JL
James Lea
Rockport Maine
1962 BT7 II
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 19:04:08 -0700
Subject: Re: Exhaust Rap
I have a DW system which is similar to D. Nocks. I think that it is a
suitable replacement. "Better than stock sound" does not really define
anything. "Rowdier or smoother" does not really define anything either.
Totally subjective words. It's like asking what is the best color.
Whatever turns you on. Cape International has some great systems also.
Anyone who spends a lot of bucks on a system will be reluctant to say
that their's isn't the best & whose to say that they are wrong? Having
spent considerable dollars on a DW system, I think that it sounds great,
adds some power, & should last a long time. BTW, don't confuse noise
with power.
YMMV
Dave Russell
BN2
Steve Gerow wrote:
> David,
> My point was with all this discussion about recreating the Abarth / Ansa
> exhausts that maybe there is already a suitable replacement in the form of
> the DW system.
>
> I wanted to hear from an owner whether it has an even-better than stock
> sound and whether it's on the rowdier side or the smoother side (as is the
> Monza).
>
> How would you describe its sound?
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 18:40:10 -0700
Subject: Re: drain plugs
It is easier for me to grind an available tool to 7/16 inch than to look
for or to wait for the $4 tool to arrive.
Dave Russell
BN2
Healeyolic wrote:
> I do not understand all of the labor intensive fixes when there is a tool
> that costs all of $4.00, and is readily available, that is intended for
> this use and works quite well. I've used mine for several years and it is
> great.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
From "M Lempert" <mlempert at bellsouth.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 22:07:09 -0500
Subject: Re: Abarth/ANSA
Mike L.
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 22:30:18 EST
Subject: Re: Exhaust Rap
> I wanted to hear from an owner whether it has an even-better than stock
> sound and whether it's on the rowdier side
>
> Yes better and yes rowdier--Michael Oritt
From <satkinson at attglobal.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 22:54:55 -0500
Subject: Dimension - BT7 rear section
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 22:53:05 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Abarth/ANSA
The BN4/BN6/Bn7/BT7 system had one muffler.
My friend has one of the BJ8 systems and it sounds
great. The thing is bullet proof also.
It would also be great if we could get the system in
SS as well....
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net> wrote:
> You could most certainly count me in for one... heck
> maybe even two (always
> nice to have a spare in this case) if we're able to
> get another run of
> exhausts.
> Regards,
> Matt Wilson-
> 1960 BT7
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
> To: "Mr. Finespanner" <mrfinespanner@earthlink.net>;
> <N0040@aol.com>
> Cc: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>;
> <bbb11489@azboss.net>
> Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2004 7:59 AM
> Subject: Re: Abarth/ANSA
>
>
> > Wow!
> >
> > I had a gut feel there was a connection ... this
> just about "proves" it.
> >
> > Mike L., it might be easier to broker a deal with
> Ansa than do all the
> > work from the ground up.
> >
> > What a great List!
> >
> >
> > bs
> > ********************************************
> > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA
> bspidell@pacbell.net
> > '67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56
> Austin-Healey 100M
> > ********************************************
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Mr. Finespanner"
> <mrfinespanner@earthlink.net>
> > To: <N0040@aol.com>
> > Cc: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>;
> <bbb11489@azboss.net>;
> <bspidell@pacbell.net>
> > Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2004 8:36 AM
> > Subject: Abarth/ANSA
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Bob, Russ, Bob, and list,
> > > I have been following this Abarth exhaust thread
> from a distance,
> > > and would like to chime in. The way I heard it,
> back when Abarth
> announced
> > > the exhaust discontinuation, John Peters of
> Sports and
> > > Classics took an Abarth system to ANSA Exhausts
> and asked to
> > > have the system duplicated and reproduced. ANSA
> came up with
> > > a perfect copy of the BJ8 Abarth, made from
> nice, thick steel and
> > > with the same look, sound, and performance. And
> they were sure
> > > schweeet! From the late 70's until the early
> 90's I fitted many of
> > > the ANSA systems to Healeys, buying them direct
> from ANSA in
> > > Georgia. The customers were always pleased, and
> the ANSAs
> > > looked, performed, and lasted better than any
> other system. About
> > > 10 years ago I called to get one and was
> informed that production
> > > had ceased due to lack of demand; they had one
> complete system
> > > left, which I purchased. At that time I asked
> about future
> availability.
> > > The ANSA man told me that the units were NLS but
> if they ever got enough
> > > orders to justify a new run it would be entirely
> possible since
> > > the production machinery still existed--it was
> not destroyed like it
> > > was in England. Unfortunately I do not have the
> resources to broker
> > > a big exhaust deal, but if somebody wanted to
> contact ANSA and get
> > > the necessary quantity information and then take
> orders they could
> > > have new ANSAs for Healeys made. I would guess
> ANSA would
> > > need a production run of at least 100 to justify
> the effort and expense,
> > > but that's only a guess. The latest ANSA
> catalog I have is from 1995,
> > > and in it the Healey system is listed at $229
> for the front muffler pair
> > > and $203.50 for the resonator, retail. The
> wholesale price was $137
> > > and $122 respectively. The ANSA depot is in
> Macon, Georgia, (800)
> 841-9166;
> > > their web site is
> http://www.ansaautomotive.com/ansasport/ .
> > > They have also started making systems in
> stainless. So there is the
> info,
> > > if anyone (Jim? Mike?) with the time and $ wants
> to get some.
> > > Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
> > >
> > > Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 08:30:42 EST
> > > From: N0040@aol.com
> > > Subject: Re: Exhaust Note (Abarth)
> > >
> > > Dave,
> > > I agree whole heartedly....
> > > I had an Abarth in a previous (purchased in
> 1972) '65 BJ8 and it was a
> > > wonderful sound.
> > > I had ask a year or so if anyone remembers the
> Abarth name. It don't
> think
> > > many people did. I believe the consensus was
> that they are no longer in
> > > business, or at least not exhaust systems.
> > > I think Abarth was quite popular in the Detroit,
> MI area in the '60s for
> all
> > > types of cars, including a new product line
> called the "Mustang".
> > > Anybody know of the demise or existence of
> Abarth exhaust systems?
> > >
> > > Regards,
> > > Bob - BJ8
> > > Milford, MI
> > >
> > > Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 10:27:02 -0700
> > > From: Russ Staub <bbb11489@azboss.net>
> > > Subject: Re: Exhaust Note (Abarth)
> > >
> > > Rich,
> > >
> > > Wow! A real live Healey with an Abarth system
> still on it. It's like
> > > finding a 10,000 year old cave-man in a glacier
> scenario.
> > >
> > > Seriously, I had asked the list about Abarth
> exhausts for a Healey a few
> > > years ago, and didn't get a reply. I had begun
> to believe maybe I was
> > > mistaken and there was no such beast. But, this
> thread started by Mike
> > > Lempert has drawn a few of us out of the
> woodwork, who were lucky enough
> to
> > > share the same sound experience with our
> Healeys. Maybe there is yet a
> > > glimmer of hope that such a system could be
> spec'd and reproduced.
> > > Russ Staub
> > > '61 Bugeye
> > > '56 BN2
> > > '67 BJ8
> > > Mesa, AZ
> > >
> > >
> > > Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 18:28:48 -0800
> > > From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
> > > Subject: Re: Exhaust Note, Abarth
> > >
> > > Any chance the Abarth became the Ansa exhaust?
> > >
> > > That's what I have on my BJ8, would buy another
> in a heartbeat ...
> > >
> > >
> > > bs
> > > ********************************************
> > > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA
> bspidell@pacbell.net
> > > '67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56
> Austin-Healey 100M
From "Alan Bromfield" <alan.bromfield at virgin.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 09:25:50 -0000
Subject: Dimension - BT7 rear section
Alan Bromfield
-----Original Message-----
From: satkinson@attglobal.net [mailto:satkinson@attglobal.net]
Sent: 20 February 2004 03:55
To: Austin Healey Global
Subject: Dimension - BT7 rear section
Can anyone tell me the dimension between the rear bulkhead and the
bracket for the rear shock absorber mounts? Does the bulkhead fit as
tight as possible to the shock mounts or is there a gap (some idea on
the gap dimension would be helpful)? Many thanks
From Douglas W Flagg <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 07:52:50 -0500
Subject: Re: "S" Head, etc.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
'56 BN2
________________________________________________________________
The best thing to hit the Internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the Web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
From "Vink, Graham" <vinkg at fleishman.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 08:30:56 -0600
Subject: 4 hours of labor vs. $4 part (was: drain plugs)
I once spent TWO HOURS one evening trying to snake weed-eater line
through a tiny recirculating water house on a BMW to get it cleared,
whereas to buy the new hose - even by outrageous BMW standards - would
probably be less than $10 and require only 10 minutes for installation
(plus I'd have a brand new hose, instead of a 10-year-old hose that I
probably damaged in the process of clearing it.)
I spent countless hours trying to make two ancient horns work
consistently on a TR6 before finally breaking down and buying two new
replacements that worked flawlessly, immediately. And I was depressed
for days.
This syndrome is related to the "why don't I unscrew that bolt and take
a look at what's behind there even though the part/system in question is
working perfectly" line of reasoning. And its ultimate conclusion is the
well-known, and usual fatal, shipwright's disease, in which the decision
to replace a burned-out taillight bulb results in a 5-year total rebuild
of the entire vehicle.
-Graham
-----Original Message-----
From: Dave & Marlene [mailto:rusd@velocitus.net]
Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2004 8:40 PM
To: Healeyolic
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: drain plugs
John,
It is easier for me to grind an available tool to 7/16 inch than to look
for or to wait for the $4 tool to arrive.
Dave Russell
BN2
Healeyolic wrote:
> I do not understand all of the labor intensive fixes when there is a
> tool that costs all of $4.00, and is readily available, that is
> intended for this use and works quite well. I've used mine for several
> years and it is great.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 07:10:31 -0800
Subject: Re: Exhaust Rap
From Drtrite at aol.com
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 10:31:40 EST
Subject: Re: Exhaust Rap
<< maybe we should have
a Sound-Off between owners of the various systems. >>
The Southeast Classic 2003 held in Little Switzerland this past year had just
such a contest. They used a db meter in a tunnel on the Blue Ridge Parkway.
110 db was the loudest recorded.
From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 09:37:02 -0600
Subject: BJ-7 fuel line, right frame rail or left frame rail?
that it is easy to bend without kinking. I also do not like the idea of
holding it down with harder steel straps. Any ideas on better material would be
appreciated, ie. brake line or whatever. I just don't like to have a lot of
joints. Also, the fitting at the carb is not the correct size. Anyway, I'm
not positive, but I think that the fuel line used to be running the length of
the right frame rail and then around behind the front cross-member and up the
fender well. However, I decided to run it down the length of the left rail to
keep it away from the battery cable running to the selenoid. Although not
highly probable, a short here could be disasterous. I have seen some pics of
cars in books and on Ebay where the fuel line runs down the left frame rail and
some on the right. Did the early cars go down the left and the convertibles go
down the right? Any and and all advice here is greatly appreciated and thanks
in advance. I hope to start the beast in a week or so.
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
63 BJ-7
Sturgeon Bay, WI.
From "Ken Stickle" <kstickle at rochester.rr.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 10:39:06 -0500
Subject: Re: Abarth/ ANSA
Count me in on this.... If it becomes available!
I Love and Miss that Mellow Sound...
Thanks,
Ken 58 BN6
From "matt wilson" <mwilson18 at cox.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 07:54:29 -0800
Subject: Re: Abarth/ANSA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>; "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>;
"Mr. Finespanner" <mrfinespanner@earthlink.net>; <N0040@aol.com>
Cc: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; <bbb11489@azboss.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2004 10:53 PM
Subject: Re: Abarth/ANSA
> If I recall, ANSA had a system specifically for the
> BJ8 which was top notch (i.e. two mufflers, not just
> one).
>
> The BN4/BN6/Bn7/BT7 system had one muffler.
>
> My friend has one of the BJ8 systems and it sounds
> great. The thing is bullet proof also.
>
> It would also be great if we could get the system in
> SS as well....
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '64 BJ8
>
> --- matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net> wrote:
> > You could most certainly count me in for one... heck
> > maybe even two (always
> > nice to have a spare in this case) if we're able to
> > get another run of
> > exhausts.
> > Regards,
> > Matt Wilson-
> > 1960 BT7
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
> > To: "Mr. Finespanner" <mrfinespanner@earthlink.net>;
> > <N0040@aol.com>
> > Cc: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>;
> > <bbb11489@azboss.net>
> > Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2004 7:59 AM
> > Subject: Re: Abarth/ANSA
> >
> >
> > > Wow!
> > >
> > > I had a gut feel there was a connection ... this
> > just about "proves" it.
> > >
> > > Mike L., it might be easier to broker a deal with
> > Ansa than do all the
> > > work from the ground up.
> > >
> > > What a great List!
> > >
> > >
> > > bs
> > > ********************************************
> > > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA
> > bspidell@pacbell.net
> > > '67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56
> > Austin-Healey 100M
> > > ********************************************
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Mr. Finespanner"
> > <mrfinespanner@earthlink.net>
> > > To: <N0040@aol.com>
> > > Cc: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>;
> > <bbb11489@azboss.net>;
> > <bspidell@pacbell.net>
> > > Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2004 8:36 AM
> > > Subject: Abarth/ANSA
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > Bob, Russ, Bob, and list,
> > > > I have been following this Abarth exhaust thread
> > from a distance,
> > > > and would like to chime in. The way I heard it,
> > back when Abarth
> > announced
> > > > the exhaust discontinuation, John Peters of
> > Sports and
> > > > Classics took an Abarth system to ANSA Exhausts
> > and asked to
> > > > have the system duplicated and reproduced. ANSA
> > came up with
> > > > a perfect copy of the BJ8 Abarth, made from
> > nice, thick steel and
> > > > with the same look, sound, and performance. And
> > they were sure
> > > > schweeet! From the late 70's until the early
> > 90's I fitted many of
> > > > the ANSA systems to Healeys, buying them direct
> > from ANSA in
> > > > Georgia. The customers were always pleased, and
> > the ANSAs
> > > > looked, performed, and lasted better than any
> > other system. About
> > > > 10 years ago I called to get one and was
> > informed that production
> > > > had ceased due to lack of demand; they had one
> > complete system
> > > > left, which I purchased. At that time I asked
> > about future
> > availability.
> > > > The ANSA man told me that the units were NLS but
> > if they ever got enough
> > > > orders to justify a new run it would be entirely
> > possible since
> > > > the production machinery still existed--it was
> > not destroyed like it
> > > > was in England. Unfortunately I do not have the
> > resources to broker
> > > > a big exhaust deal, but if somebody wanted to
> > contact ANSA and get
> > > > the necessary quantity information and then take
> > orders they could
> > > > have new ANSAs for Healeys made. I would guess
> > ANSA would
> > > > need a production run of at least 100 to justify
> > the effort and expense,
> > > > but that's only a guess. The latest ANSA
> > catalog I have is from 1995,
> > > > and in it the Healey system is listed at $229
> > for the front muffler pair
> > > > and $203.50 for the resonator, retail. The
> > wholesale price was $137
> > > > and $122 respectively. The ANSA depot is in
> > Macon, Georgia, (800)
> > 841-9166;
> > > > their web site is
> > http://www.ansaautomotive.com/ansasport/ .
> > > > They have also started making systems in
> > stainless. So there is the
> > info,
> > > > if anyone (Jim? Mike?) with the time and $ wants
> > to get some.
> > > > Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
> > > >
> > > > Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 08:30:42 EST
> > > > From: N0040@aol.com
> > > > Subject: Re: Exhaust Note (Abarth)
> > > >
> > > > Dave,
> > > > I agree whole heartedly....
> > > > I had an Abarth in a previous (purchased in
> > 1972) '65 BJ8 and it was a
> > > > wonderful sound.
> > > > I had ask a year or so if anyone remembers the
> > Abarth name. It don't
> > think
> > > > many people did. I believe the consensus was
> > that they are no longer in
> > > > business, or at least not exhaust systems.
> > > > I think Abarth was quite popular in the Detroit,
> > MI area in the '60s for
> > all
> > > > types of cars, including a new product line
> > called the "Mustang".
> > > > Anybody know of the demise or existence of
> > Abarth exhaust systems?
> > > >
> > > > Regards,
> > > > Bob - BJ8
> > > > Milford, MI
> > > >
> > > > Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 10:27:02 -0700
> > > > From: Russ Staub <bbb11489@azboss.net>
> > > > Subject: Re: Exhaust Note (Abarth)
> > > >
> > > > Rich,
> > > >
> > > > Wow! A real live Healey with an Abarth system
> > still on it. It's like
> > > > finding a 10,000 year old cave-man in a glacier
> > scenario.
> > > >
> > > > Seriously, I had asked the list about Abarth
> > exhausts for a Healey a few
> > > > years ago, and didn't get a reply. I had begun
> > to believe maybe I was
> > > > mistaken and there was no such beast. But, this
> > thread started by Mike
> > > > Lempert has drawn a few of us out of the
> > woodwork, who were lucky enough
> > to
> > > > share the same sound experience with our
> > Healeys. Maybe there is yet a
> > > > glimmer of hope that such a system could be
> > spec'd and reproduced.
> > > > Russ Staub
> > > > '61 Bugeye
> > > > '56 BN2
> > > > '67 BJ8
> > > > Mesa, AZ
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 18:28:48 -0800
> > > > From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
> > > > Subject: Re: Exhaust Note, Abarth
> > > >
> > > > Any chance the Abarth became the Ansa exhaust?
> > > >
> > > > That's what I have on my BJ8, would buy another
> > in a heartbeat ...
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > bs
> > > > ********************************************
> > > > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA
> > bspidell@pacbell.net
From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 10:01:45 -0600
Subject: rocker shaft and bushings
except that the little groove in them only goes for 1/4 of the circumference
instead of the 1/3. I doubt this makes any difference. Anyway, I didn't want
to remove the plugs hammered into the pushrod side of the rocker and re-drill
the hole (I tried it on a couple of 50+ extra rockers I have and it didn't
work), thus I drilled the bushing with a small hole right at the end of the
groove and then took a countersink bit to open it up in case the corresponding
oil hole in the rocker didn't line up perfectly. I pressed the bushings in and
then drilled the very small hole in the bushing that goes through the opposite
side of the rocker.
OK, so as I understand it, the rocker shaft has positive oil preasure and thus
the oil to feed the bushings comes through the shaft into the little 1/4
circumference groove and out the two little holes. One to the pushrod adjuster
screw and the other to just open air and pour over the rocker assembly.
Therefore the purpose of these two holes is to just keep the oil flowing
through the bushings and replentish with new, right? Also, when I start my
car, shouldn't the oil hole on the top or the rockers just barely be weeping
oil?
Next I have to hone the rocker bushing to fit the new shaft. I will try to
open up the bushing further with a fine round sanding drum and then a small
brake hone. I know that this will probably take forever. Any ideas or advice
is greatly appreciated.
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
63 BJ-7
Sturgeon Bay, WI.
From "Rick &7& Neves" <Rick at genomictechnologies.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 11:46:11 -0500
Subject: Re: rocker shaft and bushings
I got some of those rocker bushings when I ordered them from Victoria. They
are the wrong type and won't allow oil in where it needs to go. Examined how
the oil is supposed to flow, you'll see what I mean. That groove has to make a
fluid connection between the hole in the rocker and the rocker shaft.
Eventually the oil comes out the top of the rocker and spills onto the point
where the rocker rides on the pushrod, as you mentioned. I actually got one
bushing that had the full 3/4 groove and the rest were like 1/4 around, like
you mentioned. I called them up and described what I was seeing and they sent
me new ones and they were correct. Either way you will need to drill the holes
in the bushings, even the catalog mentions this.
Good luck, I know you know more about this stuff than me. Most of what I
leaned was with the help of my machinist. We just completed the work so its
fresh in my mind. Lucky for you, I'll probably forget in a few months. Check
out the engine work on my website. I took lots of pictures. www.RickNeves.com
Sincerely
Rick Neves
'56 BN-2
_._
----- Original Message -----
From: dicksonr@uwm.edu
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Cc: sdickson@ksu.edu
Sent: Friday, February 20, 2004 11:01 AM
Subject: rocker shaft and bushings
Dear Listers,
Another project to get my engine running is my the replacement of my rocker
bushings. I have pressed out the old bushings. The new bushings look the
same
except that the little groove in them only goes for 1/4 of the circumference
instead of the 1/3. I doubt this makes any difference. Anyway, I didn't
want
to remove the plugs hammered into the pushrod side of the rocker and
re-drill
the hole (I tried it on a couple of 50+ extra rockers I have and it didn't
work), thus I drilled the bushing with a small hole right at the end of the
groove and then took a countersink bit to open it up in case the
corresponding
oil hole in the rocker didn't line up perfectly. I pressed the bushings in
and
then drilled the very small hole in the bushing that goes through the
opposite
side of the rocker.
OK, so as I understand it, the rocker shaft has positive oil preasure and
thus
the oil to feed the bushings comes through the shaft into the little 1/4
circumference groove and out the two little holes. One to the pushrod
adjuster
screw and the other to just open air and pour over the rocker assembly.
Therefore the purpose of these two holes is to just keep the oil flowing
through the bushings and replentish with new, right? Also, when I start my
car, shouldn't the oil hole on the top or the rockers just barely be weeping
oil?
Next I have to hone the rocker bushing to fit the new shaft. I will try to
open up the bushing further with a fine round sanding drum and then a small
brake hone. I know that this will probably take forever. Any ideas or
advice
is greatly appreciated.
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
63 BJ-7
Sturgeon Bay, WI.
From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 14:19:03 -0500
Subject: Exhaust noise and the dB
The use of decibels (dB) can only be a RELATIVE measurement.
Of and by itself, dB means nothing, except that something can be greater or
less than another value by so many dB (a logarithmic ratio). The dB is NOT
an absolute value!
To state a value in dB, it MUST be made with respect to a reference level.
Having said that, no sound can be thought of as zero dB. If you accept that
(and that reference may not be agreed upon by all) then a Healey's muffler
tone that's ten times more powerful than silence can be said to be 10 dB
louder.
Because the relationship spelled out by the Bel and the deciBel is
logarithmic, a sound 100 times more powerful than silence would be 20 dB
greater, and a sound 1,000 times louder than silence would be 30 dB greater
in intensity.
Notice that I say "greater than" or "less than." In audiology, no sound at
all is considered the reference. However, if you're measuring relative
intensities, and you're using audio electronics equipment, then usually (not
always), the reference point is a signal on a 600-ohm impedance audio line,
or a 50-ohm radio transmission line, as used in studio circuitry.
That gives rise to absolute (not relative) values, such as dBm. If you tell
me that you have a +39 dBm signal on a 50-ohm coaxial cable line, I can tell
you, for example, the actual level is exactly 20-V or 8 watts.
In audiology, the dB rating has a real value, too, and is referred to as
dBA. A whisper is 30 dBA, and a car horn is about 100 dBA.
In audiology, the reference that's used as an industry standard is the
pressure that sound exerts. If it exerts 0.0002 dynes/sq. cm, that's called
zero dB, and is also called the threshold of human hearing. A jet engine's
roar, for example, exerts a pressure of 2000 dynes/square cm.
Also, humans typically have a range of 140 dB. This is called dynamic range.
A sound louder than 140 dB (assuming the zero sound reference), will NOT
sound any louder, but it will cause more pain!
Speaking of pain, in 1969, a friend and I drove my 1967 BJ8 from New York to
New Orleans and back. Half way to Mardi Gras the downpipes opened up, and we
did the rest of the trip sans muffler. Not only were we deafened by the time
we arrived in Baton Rouge, but some nuts and bolts on the engine were
loosened, too. That experience taught me that a good muffler is also
important to keep the engine parts together.
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
Amateur Radio AI2Q
http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
.-.-.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Drtrite@aol.com
Sent: Friday, February 20, 2004 10:32 AM
To: sgerow@singular.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Exhaust Rap
In a message dated 2/20/04 9:09:02 AM Central Standard Time,
sgerow@singular.com writes:
<< maybe we should have
a Sound-Off between owners of the various systems. >>
The Southeast Classic 2003 held in Little Switzerland this past year had
just
such a contest. They used a db meter in a tunnel on the Blue Ridge Parkway.
110 db was the loudest recorded.
From "Andy" <healey-100 at hawaii.rr.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 09:24:17 -1000
Subject: Re: 4 hours of labor vs. $4 part (was: drain plugs)
You obviously only had a mild case of shipwrights disease.
Andy
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 20, 2004 4:30 AM
Subject: 4 hours of labor vs. $4 part (was: drain plugs)
> Most true auto loons (like me) would much rather FIX a part or MAKE a
> part (Dave's approach) than buy a part, purely for the principle of the
> thing (or rock-headed stubbornness - your pick).
>
> I once spent TWO HOURS one evening trying to snake weed-eater line
> through a tiny recirculating water house on a BMW to get it cleared,
> whereas to buy the new hose - even by outrageous BMW standards - would
> probably be less than $10 and require only 10 minutes for installation
> (plus I'd have a brand new hose, instead of a 10-year-old hose that I
> probably damaged in the process of clearing it.)
>
> I spent countless hours trying to make two ancient horns work
> consistently on a TR6 before finally breaking down and buying two new
> replacements that worked flawlessly, immediately. And I was depressed
> for days.
>
> This syndrome is related to the "why don't I unscrew that bolt and take
> a look at what's behind there even though the part/system in question is
> working perfectly" line of reasoning. And its ultimate conclusion is the
> well-known, and usual fatal, shipwright's disease, in which the decision
> to replace a burned-out taillight bulb results in a 5-year total rebuild
> of the entire vehicle.
>
> -Graham
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dave & Marlene [mailto:rusd@velocitus.net]
> Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2004 8:40 PM
> To: Healeyolic
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: drain plugs
>
>
> John,
>
> It is easier for me to grind an available tool to 7/16 inch than to look
>
> for or to wait for the $4 tool to arrive.
>
> Dave Russell
> BN2
>
> Healeyolic wrote:
> > I do not understand all of the labor intensive fixes when there is a
> > tool that costs all of $4.00, and is readily available, that is
> > intended for this use and works quite well. I've used mine for several
>
> > years and it is great.
> >
> > John Sims, BN6
> > Aberdeen, NJ
From Ken Mason <meditionm at netscape.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 11:45:46 -0800
Subject: Re: Dimension - BT7 rear section
satkinson@attglobal.net wrote:
>Can anyone tell me the dimension between the rear bulkhead and the bracket for
>the rear shock absorber mounts? Does the bulkhead fit as tight as possible to
>the shock mounts or is there a gap (some idea on the gap dimension would be
>helpful)?
>Many thanks
From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 15:27:23 -0500
Subject: Re: Trans part needed.
James Lea
Rockport Maine
1962 BT7 II
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sasktel.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 15:52:32 -0600
Subject: Seat belts
Has anyone installed retractable seat belts in their Healey
in the last year so so? Where did you place the "retractor"
unit?
Finally, what brand and which supplier
would you recommend?
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
www.vintage-sportscar-touring.ca
'65 BJ8
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 15:07:28 -0700
Subject: Re: BJ-7 fuel line, right frame rail or left frame rail?
I think that the REAL consideration would be to have the fuel line on
the side which is away from the exhaust heat. A short from fuel line to
battery cable is highly improbable. I don't like copper either. It can
work harden & fatigue crack from vibration -- However few people outside
of the aviation industry seem to worry about it. There are padded "Adel"
style clamps available at most rod & car shops.
I think the lines ran down the side that the fuel pump was on. Early
cars were on the left. Later cars moved things to the right to get away
from exhaust heat.
Good luck,
Dave Russell
dicksonr@uwm.edu wrote:
> Dear Listers,
> Lately I have been running the fuel lines for my BJ-7. I got a fuel line
> assembly from AH Spares. It is copper, which I don't like all that well
>except
>
> that it is easy to bend without kinking. I also do not like the idea of
> holding it down with harder steel straps. Any ideas on better material would
>be
>
> appreciated, ie. brake line or whatever. I just don't like to have a lot of
> joints. Also, the fitting at the carb is not the correct size. Anyway, I'm
> not positive, but I think that the fuel line used to be running the length of
> the right frame rail and then around behind the front cross-member and up the
> fender well. However, I decided to run it down the length of the left rail
>to
> keep it away from the battery cable running to the selenoid. Although not
> highly probable, a short here could be disasterous. I have seen some pics of
> cars in books and on Ebay where the fuel line runs down the left frame rail
>and
>
> some on the right. Did the early cars go down the left and the convertibles
>go
>
> down the right? Any and and all advice here is greatly appreciated and
>thanks
> in advance. I hope to start the beast in a week or so.
>
> Randy Dickson
> Healey Archaeologist
> 63 BJ-7
> Sturgeon Bay, WI.
From N0040 at aol.com
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 17:17:22 EST
Subject: Re: Seat belts
Haven't installed retractable myself.
I wouldn't think you could put the retractor on the left side of the seat of
a US. left hand drive Healey.
You might look at mounting to same spot at right seat belt anchor on the
drive shaft cover.
You might need to put a stop on the belt so it wouldn't retract all the way,
because I don't think it would be easy to reach back to grab the buckle.
There are cover sleeves to keep the belt near the seat edge and not retract
all the way.
Look at http://www.julianos.com/retract_lap_belts.html as a potential
example.
While you're there, go to
http://www.julianos.com/steering_wheel_page_wood.html and look at the
beautiful steering wheels, pretty close to original 3000.
Too bad they don't have a AH hub on thme.
Best Regards,
Your southern (and much warmer neighbour)
Milford, MI
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 15:43:20 -0700
Subject: Re: rocker shaft and bushings
Pre-drill the bushing holes & align before pressing in. They will line
up if you are careful. The bushing groove should not extend to the top
rocker hole. The groove needs to only go from the bottom of the shaft to
the hole for the feed to the adjuster.
You CANNOT get a round untapered, straight hole in the bushing with a
sanding drum. Take the shaft & rockers to an auto machine shop & have
the rocker bushings honed on a piston pin honing machine to fit the
shaft. Ask for .002" clearance.
If the rockers have been used, they made need to be refaced at the
rocker to valve stem interface. The shop can do this also.
Be sure that the shaft end plugs don't extend inward so far that they
block the end oil feed holes. It CAN happen.
Yes, there should be very little flow from the rocker tops.
Dave Russell
dicksonr@uwm.edu wrote:
> Dear Listers,
> Another project to get my engine running is my the replacement of my rocker
> bushings. I have pressed out the old bushings. The new bushings look the
>same
>
> except that the little groove in them only goes for 1/4 of the circumference
> instead of the 1/3. I doubt this makes any difference. Anyway, I didn't want
> to remove the plugs hammered into the pushrod side of the rocker and re-drill
> the hole (I tried it on a couple of 50+ extra rockers I have and it didn't
> work), thus I drilled the bushing with a small hole right at the end of the
> groove and then took a countersink bit to open it up in case the
>corresponding
> oil hole in the rocker didn't line up perfectly. I pressed the bushings in
>and
>
> then drilled the very small hole in the bushing that goes through the
>opposite
> side of the rocker.
> OK, so as I understand it, the rocker shaft has positive oil preasure and
>thus
> the oil to feed the bushings comes through the shaft into the little 1/4
> circumference groove and out the two little holes. One to the pushrod
>adjuster
>
> screw and the other to just open air and pour over the rocker assembly.
> Therefore the purpose of these two holes is to just keep the oil flowing
> through the bushings and replentish with new, right? Also, when I start my
> car, shouldn't the oil hole on the top or the rockers just barely be weeping
> oil?
> Next I have to hone the rocker bushing to fit the new shaft. I will try to
> open up the bushing further with a fine round sanding drum and then a small
> brake hone. I know that this will probably take forever. Any ideas or advice
> is greatly appreciated.
>
> Randy Dickson
> Healey Archaeologist
> 63 BJ-7
> Sturgeon Bay, WI.
From Drtrite at aol.com
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 19:12:36 EST
Subject: Re: Exhaust noise and the dB
<< Just a technical point, but here's one I think is worth mentioning.
The use of decibels (dB) can only be a RELATIVE measurement.
Of and by itself, dB means nothing, except that something can be greater or
less than another value by so many dB (a logarithmic ratio). The dB is NOT
an absolute value!
To state a value in dB, it MUST be made with respect to a reference level. >>
WHOA!!!
Alex, take a deep breath. I only mentioned this after attending the SEC. and
I thought it was a good fill in after the place where the gymkanna was to be
held backed out.
70 degrees here so out to hear the logrithmic ratio of a Healey.
Don
From Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 16:40:11 -0800
Subject: Re: rocker shaft and bushings
Dave & Marlene wrote:
> Randy,
>
> Pre-drill the bushing holes & align before pressing in. They will line
> up if you are careful. The bushing groove should not extend to the top
> rocker hole. The groove needs to only go from the bottom of the shaft
> to the hole for the feed to the adjuster.
>
> You CANNOT get a round untapered, straight hole in the bushing with a
> sanding drum. Take the shaft & rockers to an auto machine shop & have
> the rocker bushings honed on a piston pin honing machine to fit the
> shaft. Ask for .002" clearance.
>
> If the rockers have been used, they made need to be refaced at the
> rocker to valve stem interface. The shop can do this also.
>
> Be sure that the shaft end plugs don't extend inward so far that they
> block the end oil feed holes. It CAN happen.
>
> Yes, there should be very little flow from the rocker tops.
>
> Dave Russell
>
>
>
> dicksonr@uwm.edu wrote:
>
>> Dear Listers,
>> Another project to get my engine running is my the replacement of my
>> rocker bushings. I have pressed out the old bushings. The new
>> bushings look the same
>>
>> except that the little groove in them only goes for 1/4 of the
>> circumference instead of the 1/3. I doubt this makes any difference.
>> Anyway, I didn't want to remove the plugs hammered into the pushrod
>> side of the rocker and re-drill the hole (I tried it on a couple of
>> 50+ extra rockers I have and it didn't work), thus I drilled the
>> bushing with a small hole right at the end of the groove and then
>> took a countersink bit to open it up in case the corresponding oil
>> hole in the rocker didn't line up perfectly. I pressed the bushings
>> in and
>>
>> then drilled the very small hole in the bushing that goes through the
>> opposite side of the rocker. OK, so as I understand it, the rocker
>> shaft has positive oil preasure and thus the oil to feed the bushings
>> comes through the shaft into the little 1/4 circumference groove and
>> out the two little holes. One to the pushrod adjuster
>>
>> screw and the other to just open air and pour over the rocker
>> assembly. Therefore the purpose of these two holes is to just keep
>> the oil flowing through the bushings and replentish with new, right?
>> Also, when I start my car, shouldn't the oil hole on the top or the
>> rockers just barely be weeping oil? Next I have to hone the rocker
>> bushing to fit the new shaft. I will try to open up the bushing
>> further with a fine round sanding drum and then a small brake hone.
>> I know that this will probably take forever. Any ideas or advice is
>> greatly appreciated.
>>
>> Randy Dickson
>> Healey Archaeologist
>> 63 BJ-7
>> Sturgeon Bay, WI.
From "M Lempert" <mlempert at bellsouth.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 20:03:43 -0500
Subject: Re: Exhaust noise and the dB
Mike L.
>
> Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 14:19:03 -0500
> From: "Alex" <alexmm@adelphia.net>
> Subject: Exhaust noise and the dB
>
> Just a technical point, but here's one I think is worth mentioning.
>
> The use of decibels (dB) can only be a RELATIVE measurement.
>
> Of and by itself, dB means nothing, except that something can be greater
or
> less than another value by so many dB (a logarithmic ratio). The dB is NOT
> an absolute value!
>
> To state a value in dB, it MUST be made with respect to a reference level.
>
> Having said that, no sound can be thought of as zero dB. If you accept
that
> (and that reference may not be agreed upon by all) then a Healey's muffler
> tone that's ten times more powerful than silence can be said to be 10 dB
> louder.
>
> Because the relationship spelled out by the Bel and the deciBel is
> logarithmic, a sound 100 times more powerful than silence would be 20 dB
> greater, and a sound 1,000 times louder than silence would be 30 dB
greater
> in intensity.
>
> Notice that I say "greater than" or "less than." In audiology, no sound
at
> all is considered the reference. However, if you're measuring relative
> intensities, and you're using audio electronics equipment, then usually
(not
> always), the reference point is a signal on a 600-ohm impedance audio
line,
> or a 50-ohm radio transmission line, as used in studio circuitry.
>
> That gives rise to absolute (not relative) values, such as dBm. If you
tell
> me that you have a +39 dBm signal on a 50-ohm coaxial cable line, I can
tell
> you, for example, the actual level is exactly 20-V or 8 watts.
>
> In audiology, the dB rating has a real value, too, and is referred to as
> dBA. A whisper is 30 dBA, and a car horn is about 100 dBA.
>
> In audiology, the reference that's used as an industry standard is the
> pressure that sound exerts. If it exerts 0.0002 dynes/sq. cm, that's
called
> zero dB, and is also called the threshold of human hearing. A jet engine's
> roar, for example, exerts a pressure of 2000 dynes/square cm.
>
> Also, humans typically have a range of 140 dB. This is called dynamic
range.
> A sound louder than 140 dB (assuming the zero sound reference), will NOT
> sound any louder, but it will cause more pain!
>
> Speaking of pain, in 1969, a friend and I drove my 1967 BJ8 from New York
to
> New Orleans and back. Half way to Mardi Gras the downpipes opened up, and
we
> did the rest of the trip sans muffler. Not only were we deafened by the
time
> we arrived in Baton Rouge, but some nuts and bolts on the engine were
> loosened, too. That experience taught me that a good muffler is also
> important to keep the engine parts together.
>
> == Alex in Maine
> 1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
> Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
> Amateur Radio AI2Q
> http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
From "M Lempert" <mlempert at bellsouth.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 20:36:11 -0500
Subject: Exhaust Note - Abarth - ANSA- Gears Brief status
There is no tooling, or at least that's the understanding at the moment.
There may be an opportunity, however, I need to have some creative control
to ensure some of the things we discussed. Also, they previously did BJ8
but not the roadsters.
Apparently a number of other folks also made contact today. I'll be glad to
pass along what I learn. My only concern is that at least one of the
contacts was attempting to do the same thing as I, almost. We are in a
free and very competitive market, so no one can object to competition.
That said, honestly I was a tad irritated.
I hope to be able to partner with ANSA, but only to the extent that the end
result meets the goal - our complete satisfaction. I have a few simple
objectives that I'll hold to; at a high level, performance, functionality,
and cost. I don't believe a good system has to be as expensive as I've
seen. I'm committed to quality, value, and contribution to the Healey
community. I'm also excited about pulling this off. I sense I have the
support of the larger group.
After all the excitement about Abarth, I ordered a couple of NOS exhaust
systems from my local Abarth dealer. I have two systems on the way to me.
One is a NOS Abarth for the Bugeye. I'm assuming there will be a market for
that Healey as well. Do you think ?
Other exciting news..... The new gear order is in process, finally. I
didn't get the 100 I needed, but enough have committed that I feel
comfortable going forward. I'll need to fund the difference, so the price
will be going up for any new orders. I'll honor the old price of $275 until
the end of February in hopes of flushing out the last minute crowd.
Finally, for those that might be interested, I've stumbled upon a stash of
NOS Les Leston steering wheels of various designs. I've purchased them all
(forgot how many, quite a few) and am awaiting delivery.
That's all for now.
Mike L.
From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 19:58:38 -0600
Subject: more on rocker bushings
inner tubes, clean them up, install new cores, armor-alled and over-inflated
just so that I can take my fiance and her god-daughter out this weekend to go
bombing down some big hills with fresh snow, (I've got to remember my flask of
schnapps this time). Thanks to all that replied. I really appreciate your
help.
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
63 BJ-7
Sturgeon Bay, WI.
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 19:06:02 -0700
Subject: Re: Exhaust noise and the dB
I don't get your part about engine bolts loosening due to the pipe
falling off. Please explain?
Dave Russell
BN2
Alex wrote:
> Just a technical point, but here's one I think is worth mentioning.
>
> The use of decibels (dB) can only be a RELATIVE measurement.
>
> Of and by itself, dB means nothing, except that something can be greater or
> less than another value by so many dB (a logarithmic ratio). The dB is NOT
> an absolute value!
>
> To state a value in dB, it MUST be made with respect to a reference level.
>
> Speaking of pain, in 1969, a friend and I drove my 1967 BJ8 from New York to
> New Orleans and back. Half way to Mardi Gras the downpipes opened up, and we
> did the rest of the trip sans muffler. Not only were we deafened by the time
> we arrived in Baton Rouge, but some nuts and bolts on the engine were
> loosened, too. That experience taught me that a good muffler is also
> important to keep the engine parts together.
>
> == Alex in Maine
> In a message dated 2/20/04 9:09:02 AM Central Standard Time,
> sgerow@singular.com writes:
>
> << maybe we should have
> a Sound-Off between owners of the various systems. >>
>
> The Southeast Classic 2003 held in Little Switzerland this past year had
> just
> such a contest. They used a db meter in a tunnel on the Blue Ridge Parkway.
> 110 db was the loudest recorded.
From Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 21:09:35 -0500
Subject: shock oil
Funny the driver's handbook for the BJ8 does not mention topping these up
as it does the steering box and idler in the lubrication chart.
Scot
'66 BJ8
From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 20:31:42 -0600
Subject: Re: rocker shaft and bushings
If you use a hone or sanding drum, you will leave small pieces of abrasive
in the bushings, and wear out the rocker shaft very quickly. Also, you will
not be able to enlarge the bushing in a manner that will leave you with a
hole that is perpendicular to the rocker motion. I did mine with an
adjustable 4-blade reamer, so I could creep up on the actual rocker shaft
diameter, and I still may have not kept the new hole on the same axis as the
original. Those reamers are about $15 online at a place like ralmikes tool
a rama.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8...undergoing bodywork finally
> Next I have to hone the rocker bushing to fit the new shaft. I will try
to
> open up the bushing further with a fine round sanding drum and then a
small
> brake hone. I know that this will probably take forever. Any ideas or
advice
> is greatly appreciated.
>
> Randy
From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 21:54:35 -0500
Subject: RE: Exhaust noise and the dB
-----Original Message-----
From: M Lempert [mailto:mlempert@bellsouth.net]
Sent: Friday, February 20, 2004 8:04 PM
To: Healey List; alexmm@adelphia.net
Subject: Re: Exhaust noise and the dB
Alex: I was with you until the engine nuts and bolts part, don't
understand that.
Mike L.
>
> Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 14:19:03 -0500
> From: "Alex" <alexmm@adelphia.net>
> Subject: Exhaust noise and the dB
>
> Just a technical point, but here's one I think is worth mentioning.
>
> The use of decibels (dB) can only be a RELATIVE measurement.
>
> Of and by itself, dB means nothing, except that something can be greater
or
> less than another value by so many dB (a logarithmic ratio). The dB is NOT
> an absolute value!
>
> To state a value in dB, it MUST be made with respect to a reference level.
>
> Having said that, no sound can be thought of as zero dB. If you accept
that
> (and that reference may not be agreed upon by all) then a Healey's muffler
> tone that's ten times more powerful than silence can be said to be 10 dB
> louder.
>
> Because the relationship spelled out by the Bel and the deciBel is
> logarithmic, a sound 100 times more powerful than silence would be 20 dB
> greater, and a sound 1,000 times louder than silence would be 30 dB
greater
> in intensity.
>
> Notice that I say "greater than" or "less than." In audiology, no sound
at
> all is considered the reference. However, if you're measuring relative
> intensities, and you're using audio electronics equipment, then usually
(not
> always), the reference point is a signal on a 600-ohm impedance audio
line,
> or a 50-ohm radio transmission line, as used in studio circuitry.
>
> That gives rise to absolute (not relative) values, such as dBm. If you
tell
> me that you have a +39 dBm signal on a 50-ohm coaxial cable line, I can
tell
> you, for example, the actual level is exactly 20-V or 8 watts.
>
> In audiology, the dB rating has a real value, too, and is referred to as
> dBA. A whisper is 30 dBA, and a car horn is about 100 dBA.
>
> In audiology, the reference that's used as an industry standard is the
> pressure that sound exerts. If it exerts 0.0002 dynes/sq. cm, that's
called
> zero dB, and is also called the threshold of human hearing. A jet engine's
> roar, for example, exerts a pressure of 2000 dynes/square cm.
>
> Also, humans typically have a range of 140 dB. This is called dynamic
range.
> A sound louder than 140 dB (assuming the zero sound reference), will NOT
> sound any louder, but it will cause more pain!
>
> Speaking of pain, in 1969, a friend and I drove my 1967 BJ8 from New York
to
> New Orleans and back. Half way to Mardi Gras the downpipes opened up, and
we
> did the rest of the trip sans muffler. Not only were we deafened by the
time
> we arrived in Baton Rouge, but some nuts and bolts on the engine were
> loosened, too. That experience taught me that a good muffler is also
> important to keep the engine parts together.
>
> == Alex in Maine
> 1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
> Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
> Amateur Radio AI2Q
> http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 21:55:48 -0500
Subject: RE: Exhaust noise and the dB
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
Amateur Radio AI2Q
http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
.-.-.
-----Original Message-----
From: Dave & Marlene [mailto:rusd@velocitus.net]
Sent: Friday, February 20, 2004 9:06 PM
To: Alex
Cc: sgerow@singular.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Exhaust noise and the dB
Geez Alex,
The only thing he left out of the "110db" was the A. I think that it is
pretty much a given that sound pressure levels for automobiles & such
are measured on the "A" weighted scale. Thus 110dba is a valid measure
of sound level & the "A" can be assumed. This IS an absolute level.
I don't get your part about engine bolts loosening due to the pipe
falling off. Please explain?
Dave Russell
BN2
Alex wrote:
> Just a technical point, but here's one I think is worth mentioning.
>
> The use of decibels (dB) can only be a RELATIVE measurement.
>
> Of and by itself, dB means nothing, except that something can be greater
or
> less than another value by so many dB (a logarithmic ratio). The dB is NOT
> an absolute value!
>
> To state a value in dB, it MUST be made with respect to a reference level.
>
> Speaking of pain, in 1969, a friend and I drove my 1967 BJ8 from New York
to
> New Orleans and back. Half way to Mardi Gras the downpipes opened up, and
we
> did the rest of the trip sans muffler. Not only were we deafened by the
time
> we arrived in Baton Rouge, but some nuts and bolts on the engine were
> loosened, too. That experience taught me that a good muffler is also
> important to keep the engine parts together.
>
> == Alex in Maine
> In a message dated 2/20/04 9:09:02 AM Central Standard Time,
> sgerow@singular.com writes:
>
> << maybe we should have
> a Sound-Off between owners of the various systems. >>
>
> The Southeast Classic 2003 held in Little Switzerland this past year had
> just
> such a contest. They used a db meter in a tunnel on the Blue Ridge
Parkway.
> 110 db was the loudest recorded.
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 20:08:07 -0700
Subject: Re: Exhaust noise and the dB
Thanks,
Dave Russell
Alex wrote:
> The unmuffled engine vibrated more than when muffled, so things were shaken
> loose.
>
> == Alex in Maine
From john sawyer <jrsawyer2002 at yahoo.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 19:36:08 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Petronix / tach modification
--- Blue One Hundred
<international_investor@yahoo.com> wrote:
> John -
>
> The Pertronix should not have any affect on your
> tach.
>
> It sounds as if you may not have switched the tach
> properly.
>
> There are two different types of BJ8 tachs out
> there,
> the later version is very easy to switch to negative
> ground, the earlier version is very difficult (you
> have to isolate the needle chassis from the rest of
> the tach).
>
> My '64 BJ8 has the earlier type and I had to send it
> to Norman Nock for them to convert it to neg.
> ground.
> It came back with all sorts of teflon washers
> mounted
> on various inside parts...
>
> If you simply just swapped the leads on the diode in
> your BJ8 tach... and it is the earlier style tach
> (very possible with a '65 BJ8), you may have not
> completed the job properly on your tach....
>
> Regards,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '64 BJ8
>
> --- john sawyer <jrsawyer2002@yahoo.com> wrote:
> > I have converted to negative ground and switched
> the
> > wiring in the tachometer for negative ground. I
> > also
> > installed petronics ignition. The tach worked for
> > an
> > hour or so. Has anyone heard of tach problems
> > related
> > to petronics ignition that requires changing the
> > tach
> > in any way?
> > John Sawyer 65 BJ8
>
__________________________________
Yahoo! Mail SpamGuard - Read only the mail you want.
http://antispam.yahoo.com/tools
From "M Lempert" <mlempert at bellsouth.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 23:24:14 -0500
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note - Abarth - ANSA- Gears Brief status
While ANSA last did the BJ8, earlier they had also made systems for the
100-6 and early 3000. They were all discontinued. The ANSA BJ8 design
can't be used for all, either in part or entirety.
My focus is on a system that will meet the greatest majority of our needs.
So I think, by definition, it won't be "original". On the issue of the
BJ8 I'll need to be corrected (I'm not a BJ8 owner) if I'm not representing
them properly. I was hoping to go straight out, bypassing the right angle
across the back. The other option would be to have an additional unit at
the back for BJ8's. But then it would likely suffer by using a bigger front
muffler common to all cars.
Mike L.
From "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe at earthlink.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 23:33:37 -0500
Subject: Exhaust Rap-Ansa-Abarth
Many years ago, probably around 1985 or so, I went to my secret parts dealer
and asked for his advice on a needed new muffler. His answer was hanging in
his rafters. He sold me a muffler for about $50. It was mild steel, fit
perfectly, without alteration, but I had to paint it black.
I installed the muffler and my car lost it's song! I was outraged! I drove
the car to my parts guy and made him listen to the thin, reedy, almost silent
sound. It didn't sound like a Healey, not even close! He smiled and said
drive the car and if I didn't like it in 500 to 1,000 miles, he would take it
back and order whatever I wanted for the same money.
I did what the man said and the sound started to change, in about 800 miles.
Like a fine wine, the sound has gotten better over the years and miles. For
many years and miles now, the sound has been magnificent. The sound turns
heads and gets a thumbs up from most in the know and it is not the least harsh
to my ears.
A few weeks back, I made a comment about the sound of my car changing
dramtically after my insulation process. With the car fully insulated, the
throaty sound moved to the very rear of the car. At speed (above 3000 RPM)
the sound is very mellow, pleasant and distant. When I put my foot into it,
the car sings to me. Around 2800 RPM, winding it up or down, on the open
road, in a tunnel, over a steel bridge, under a trestle or near a cliff, the
sound is absolutly wonderful.
I love the sound of my Healey! There is nothing like it. The neighbors know
when I am out in it and when I visit a car show, heads turn. They don't hear
a big block but they know something unique and unusual has just arrived.
Oh yeah, the muffler, it is a Walker, right off the shelf. I can slide a 4" x
4" under it.
It is still in good shape and song but probably not for long. I am interested
in what Mike is doing with Ansa but I will check and see if Walker still makes
the muffler.
I'll let you know.
Fred
63BJ7
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 20:43:49 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Petronix / tach modification
well, my old weird tach works with my pertronix just
fine, so I don't know what to say. I have not heard
of pertronix being a problem with the Tach on any BJ8
so maybe it is a problem with some other british
cars... but I don't think that's the problem. My
general observation has been that people are quick to
blame several types of problems on the pertronix, but
almost is never the root cause of any the problems
they've assumed.
Moma will probably work it out! Good Luck!
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- john sawyer <jrsawyer2002@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Alan; thanks for the response, my tach is now with
> MOMA
> I'm pretty much a fearless novice at this so I
> probably missed something in the change over to
> neg.
> ground as suggested. For what its worth, MOMA
> thinks
> that petronics is an issue with some of the tachs.
> They went to petronix early on for an explanation
> because some tach that were otherwise fine did not
> work with electronic ignition, and some did? I'm
> sure
> there is a scientific explanation. I have other
> systems to de- bug on the car that need my
> attention.
> The tach will become understandable soon enough.
> John 65 BJ8
>
> --- Blue One Hundred
> <international_investor@yahoo.com> wrote:
> > John -
> >
> > The Pertronix should not have any affect on your
> > tach.
> >
> > It sounds as if you may not have switched the tach
> > properly.
> >
> > There are two different types of BJ8 tachs out
> > there,
> > the later version is very easy to switch to
> negative
> > ground, the earlier version is very difficult (you
> > have to isolate the needle chassis from the rest
> of
> > the tach).
> >
> > My '64 BJ8 has the earlier type and I had to send
> it
> > to Norman Nock for them to convert it to neg.
> > ground.
> > It came back with all sorts of teflon washers
> > mounted
> > on various inside parts...
> >
> > If you simply just swapped the leads on the diode
> in
> > your BJ8 tach... and it is the earlier style tach
> > (very possible with a '65 BJ8), you may have not
> > completed the job properly on your tach....
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Alan
> >
> > '53 BN1 '64 BJ8
> >
> > --- john sawyer <jrsawyer2002@yahoo.com> wrote:
> > > I have converted to negative ground and switched
> > the
> > > wiring in the tachometer for negative ground. I
> > > also
> > > installed petronics ignition. The tach worked
> for
> > > an
> > > hour or so. Has anyone heard of tach problems
> > > related
> > > to petronics ignition that requires changing the
> > > tach
> > > in any way?
> > > John Sawyer 65 BJ8
From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2004 00:27:46 -0600
Subject: Tire Balancer
Is this the correct machine to do that?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2461544356
Patton
-------------------------------------
Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
1957 Austin-Healey BN4
Website http://www.austin-healeys.com/
For Sale - 1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert
From Alan Bromfield <Alan.Bromfield at ntl.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2004 09:57:02 -0000
Subject: RE: Exhaust - Abarth - ANSA
Within our club the best sounding exhaust that I have encountered is a Denis
Welch system on a very nice Tri-Carb (Belongs to Jim Finch). So I tend to
concur with your thoughts that the Roadster system is likely to have the
largest market for those that want the sound and simplicity rather than
originality.
Count me in for a system for my BN4 - if the exchange rate continues to
slide the price could be attractive this side of the pond too.
AlanB
BJ8 - 5footer
BN4 - Project
http://www.nfahc.co.uk
-----Original Message-----
From: M Lempert [mailto:mlempert@bellsouth.net]
Sent: 21 February 2004 04:24
To: Healey List
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note - Abarth - ANSA- Gears Brief status
A point of clarification... A number of people have emailed asking about
the pre-BJ8 cars. I must have given the impression of only targeting the
BJ8 exhaust. Not the case. In fact, when asked, I told the ANSA guy that
the bigger opportunity is (my opinion) with the roadsters. I then talked
about a strategy that would satisfy most, if not all models. We will
follow up on Monday.
While ANSA last did the BJ8, earlier they had also made systems for the
100-6 and early 3000. They were all discontinued. The ANSA BJ8 design
can't be used for all, either in part or entirety.
My focus is on a system that will meet the greatest majority of our needs.
So I think, by definition, it won't be "original". On the issue of the
BJ8 I'll need to be corrected (I'm not a BJ8 owner) if I'm not representing
them properly. I was hoping to go straight out, bypassing the right angle
across the back. The other option would be to have an additional unit at
the back for BJ8's. But then it would likely suffer by using a bigger front
muffler common to all cars.
Mike L.
The contents of this email and any attachments are sent for the personal
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From "David Masucci" <dmasucci at radiantsoundworks.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2004 07:31:35 -0500
Subject: Petronix / tach Problems
A side note to all. As I stated I rebuilt my tach with all new electronics
parts. With those new parts, my tach ought to be electrically identical to
how it was orignally designed. No parts have drifted or aged as they're all
new. It seems to work great but with one exception. I noted that it did not
perfectly track my diagnostic tachometer all through the RPM range. It was
close, but not right-on. I calibrated it in the range where I spend most of
my RPM time. I believe that when Chris added the extra turn to his rebuilt
tach, the accuracy improved such that it was right-on all through the range.
Chris...are you listening....is that correct? Chris can tell you guys how he
made the modification if you're interested.
Dave M
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "john sawyer" <jrsawyer2002@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 20, 2004 11:43 PM
Subject: Re: Petronix / tach modification
> John -
>
> well, my old weird tach works with my pertronix just
> fine, so I don't know what to say. I have not heard
> of pertronix being a problem with the Tach on any BJ8
> so maybe it is a problem with some other british
> cars... but I don't think that's the problem. My
> general observation has been that people are quick to
> blame several types of problems on the pertronix, but
> almost is never the root cause of any the problems
> they've assumed.
>
> Moma will probably work it out! Good Luck!
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '64 BJ8
>
> --- john sawyer <jrsawyer2002@yahoo.com> wrote:
> > Alan; thanks for the response, my tach is now with
> > MOMA
> > I'm pretty much a fearless novice at this so I
> > probably missed something in the change over to
> > neg.
> > ground as suggested. For what its worth, MOMA
> > thinks
> > that petronics is an issue with some of the tachs.
> > They went to petronix early on for an explanation
> > because some tach that were otherwise fine did not
> > work with electronic ignition, and some did? I'm
> > sure
> > there is a scientific explanation. I have other
> > systems to de- bug on the car that need my
> > attention.
> > The tach will become understandable soon enough.
> > John 65 BJ8
> >
> > --- Blue One Hundred
> > <international_investor@yahoo.com> wrote:
> > > John -
> > >
> > > The Pertronix should not have any affect on your
> > > tach.
> > >
> > > It sounds as if you may not have switched the tach
> > > properly.
> > >
> > > There are two different types of BJ8 tachs out
> > > there,
> > > the later version is very easy to switch to
> > negative
> > > ground, the earlier version is very difficult (you
> > > have to isolate the needle chassis from the rest
> > of
> > > the tach).
> > >
> > > My '64 BJ8 has the earlier type and I had to send
> > it
> > > to Norman Nock for them to convert it to neg.
> > > ground.
> > > It came back with all sorts of teflon washers
> > > mounted
> > > on various inside parts...
> > >
> > > If you simply just swapped the leads on the diode
> > in
> > > your BJ8 tach... and it is the earlier style tach
> > > (very possible with a '65 BJ8), you may have not
> > > completed the job properly on your tach....
> > >
> > > Regards,
> > >
> > > Alan
> > >
> > > '53 BN1 '64 BJ8
> > >
> > > --- john sawyer <jrsawyer2002@yahoo.com> wrote:
> > > > I have converted to negative ground and switched
> > > the
> > > > wiring in the tachometer for negative ground. I
> > > > also
> > > > installed petronics ignition. The tach worked
> > for
> > > > an
> > > > hour or so. Has anyone heard of tach problems
> > > > related
> > > > to petronics ignition that requires changing the
> > > > tach
> > > > in any way?
> > > > John Sawyer 65 BJ8
From "Rick &7& Neves" <Rick at genomictechnologies.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2004 07:59:02 -0500
Subject: Original coolant hose clamps - installation
I think I've figured it out.
Fixed end has strap folded underneath so it is held tighter as the clamp is
tightened.
Is the loose end folded under or over? And does it coil around the turnie
thing?
Sincerely
Rick Neves
'56 BN-2
_._
From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2004 08:15:53 -0500
Subject: RE: Exhaust Note - Abarth - ANSA- Gears Brief status
> [Original Message]
> From: M Lempert <mlempert@bellsouth.net>
> To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 2/20/04 8:38:07 PM
> Subject: Exhaust Note - Abarth - ANSA- Gears Brief status
>
> I was in contact with ANSA today and had some very good discussion.. I'll
> be following up on Monday.
>
> There is no tooling, or at least that's the understanding at the moment.
> There may be an opportunity, however, I need to have some creative
control
> to ensure some of the things we discussed. Also, they previously did BJ8
> but not the roadsters.
>
> Apparently a number of other folks also made contact today. I'll be glad
to
> pass along what I learn. My only concern is that at least one of the
> contacts was attempting to do the same thing as I, almost. We are in a
> free and very competitive market, so no one can object to competition.
> That said, honestly I was a tad irritated.
>
> I hope to be able to partner with ANSA, but only to the extent that the
end
> result meets the goal - our complete satisfaction. I have a few simple
> objectives that I'll hold to; at a high level, performance,
functionality,
> and cost. I don't believe a good system has to be as expensive as I've
> seen. I'm committed to quality, value, and contribution to the Healey
> community. I'm also excited about pulling this off. I sense I have the
> support of the larger group.
>
> After all the excitement about Abarth, I ordered a couple of NOS exhaust
> systems from my local Abarth dealer. I have two systems on the way to me.
> One is a NOS Abarth for the Bugeye. I'm assuming there will be a market
for
> that Healey as well. Do you think ?
>
> Other exciting news..... The new gear order is in process, finally. I
> didn't get the 100 I needed, but enough have committed that I feel
> comfortable going forward. I'll need to fund the difference, so the
price
> will be going up for any new orders. I'll honor the old price of $275
until
> the end of February in hopes of flushing out the last minute crowd.
>
> Finally, for those that might be interested, I've stumbled upon a stash
of
> NOS Les Leston steering wheels of various designs. I've purchased them
all
> (forgot how many, quite a few) and am awaiting delivery.
>
> That's all for now.
>
> Mike L.
From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2004 08:22:10 -0500
Subject: RE: shock oil
> [Original Message]
> From: Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
> To: healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 2/20/04 9:12:00 PM
> Subject: shock oil
>
> Checked the level of oil in my shocks today and they seemed a little low.
> Can someone tell me where the correct fill level is on these and also
would
> Penrite carb oil be a correct substitute? The stuff in there seems to be
> about 20 wt.
>
> Funny the driver's handbook for the BJ8 does not mention topping these up
> as it does the steering box and idler in the lubrication chart.
>
>
> Scot
> '66 BJ8
From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2004 08:31:25 -0500
Subject: Re: Petronix / tach modification
Tom
> [Original Message]
> From: john sawyer <jrsawyer2002@yahoo.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 2/20/04 10:38:06 PM
> Subject: Re: Petronix / tach modification
>
> Alan; thanks for the response, my tach is now with
> MOMA
> I'm pretty much a fearless novice at this so I
> probably missed something in the change over to neg.
> ground as suggested. For what its worth, MOMA thinks
> that petronics is an issue with some of the tachs.
> They went to petronix early on for an explanation
> because some tach that were otherwise fine did not
> work with electronic ignition, and some did? I'm sure
> there is a scientific explanation. I have other
> systems to de- bug on the car that need my attention.
> The tach will become understandable soon enough.
> John 65 BJ8
>
> --- Blue One Hundred
> <international_investor@yahoo.com> wrote:
> > John -
> >
> > The Pertronix should not have any affect on your
> > tach.
> >
> > It sounds as if you may not have switched the tach
> > properly.
> >
> > There are two different types of BJ8 tachs out
> > there,
> > the later version is very easy to switch to negative
> > ground, the earlier version is very difficult (you
> > have to isolate the needle chassis from the rest of
> > the tach).
> >
> > My '64 BJ8 has the earlier type and I had to send it
> > to Norman Nock for them to convert it to neg.
> > ground.
> > It came back with all sorts of teflon washers
> > mounted
> > on various inside parts...
> >
> > If you simply just swapped the leads on the diode in
> > your BJ8 tach... and it is the earlier style tach
> > (very possible with a '65 BJ8), you may have not
> > completed the job properly on your tach....
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Alan
> >
> > '53 BN1 '64 BJ8
> >
> > --- john sawyer <jrsawyer2002@yahoo.com> wrote:
> > > I have converted to negative ground and switched
> > the
> > > wiring in the tachometer for negative ground. I
> > > also
> > > installed petronics ignition. The tach worked for
> > > an
> > > hour or so. Has anyone heard of tach problems
> > > related
> > > to petronics ignition that requires changing the
> > > tach
> > > in any way?
> > > John Sawyer 65 BJ8
> >
>
>
>
> __________________________________
> Yahoo! Mail SpamGuard - Read only the mail you want.
> http://antispam.yahoo.com/tools
From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2004 08:46:28 -0500
Subject: RE: Tire Balancer
Tom
> [Original Message]
> From: Patton Dickson <kpdii@earthlink.net>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 2/21/04 1:29:54 AM
> Subject: Tire Balancer
>
> I remember people saying that one of the correct ways to balance a wire
> wheel was to do it when it was on the car.
>
> Is this the correct machine to do that?
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2461544356
>
> Patton
>
> -------------------------------------
> Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
> 1957 Austin-Healey BN4
> Website http://www.austin-healeys.com/
>
> For Sale - 1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert
From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2004 09:01:11 -0500
Subject: RE: Original coolant hose clamps - installation
tom
> [Original Message]
> From: Rick &7& Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
> To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 2/21/04 8:01:06 AM
> Subject: Original coolant hose clamps - installation
>
> What is the proper way to use the strap type original hose clamps.
>
> I think I've figured it out.
>
> Fixed end has strap folded underneath so it is held tighter as the clamp
is
> tightened.
>
> Is the loose end folded under or over? And does it coil around the turnie
> thing?
>
>
> Sincerely
>
>
> Rick Neves
> '56 BN-2
>
>
>
> _._
From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2004 08:03:15 -0600
Subject: Re: Petronix / tach Problems
Yes, you got it right. After I rebuilt my tach and added the pertronix, it
would only bump the needle when I got to about 3K rpm. It seemed like the
single loop no longer provided enough of a primary winding. Temporarily I
wrapped another loop with some slack wire and now the tach would show idle,
but revved up past 2K rom and the needle would simply drop. I haphazardly
wrapped another loop with some more slack and the tach started working
throughout the rev range...that's three loops total at this point. The tach
was still not accurate throughout the entire range though. I used a piece
of solid conductor 18 gauge wire and wrapped 6 loops, and was barely able to
fit it through the little plastic thingy. Is that going to create too much
voltage on the secondary...I don't know, but the smoke is still in the tach.
The tach now behaves properly throughout the entire rev range, and is very
smooth...no jumping or bouncing. The needle seems more electrically "bound"
to the input signal.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
From: "David Masucci" <dmasucci@radiantsoundworks.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2004 6:31 AM
Subject: Petronix / tach Problems
> A theory...I believe that the Pertronix may pull somewhat less current on
> the primary side than the points did. Actually it's probably not less
> current, it's more likely that the "shape" of the current curve is
different
> with Pertronix when compared to points. The points certainly will chatter
> and spread out the current pulse while the pertronix pulse will be cleaner
> and possible quicker. The Smiths electronic tach uses a one-loop
transformer
> to couple that primary signal into its circuitry. It seems that some tachs
> have more trouble than others detecting the cleaner/quicker pulse of the
> Pertronix. One known solution is to add a turn or two to the transformer.
> Doing that however requires a modification of the wiring harness under the
> dash so that an extra turn can be added to the transformer. I have a
> Pertronix on my BJ8 and my tach works okay. But I rebuilt mine with new
> electronics. You may want to check with another list member....Chris
> Masucci. He's my nephew. He had this problem and completely solved it.
>
> A side note to all. As I stated I rebuilt my tach with all new electronics
> parts. With those new parts, my tach ought to be electrically identical to
> how it was orignally designed. No parts have drifted or aged as they're
all
> new. It seems to work great but with one exception. I noted that it did
not
> perfectly track my diagnostic tachometer all through the RPM range. It was
> close, but not right-on. I calibrated it in the range where I spend most
of
> my RPM time. I believe that when Chris added the extra turn to his rebuilt
> tach, the accuracy improved such that it was right-on all through the
range.
> Chris...are you listening....is that correct? Chris can tell you guys how
he
> made the modification if you're interested.
>
> Dave M
> BJ8
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2004 09:44:24 EST
Subject: Re: Exhaust Rap-Ansa-Abarth
Fellow Bluegrass Club Member John Bahe is your Kentucky District Rep for
Walker mufflers. Give him a call and if the muffler exists anywhere it will
magically appear at your local NAPA Store.
Jim Werner
fredwescoe@earthlink.net writes: I am interested in what Mike is doing with
Ansa but I will check and see if Walker still makes the muffler.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
From Rick Snover <rsnover at ix.netcom.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2004 06:58:53 -0800
Subject: Fwd: 2005 Proposed Australian Austin Healey Invasion
>From: "Bob DeShane - Little Britain Motor Company" <lbmc@nexicom.net>
>To: "Vintage-Race" <vintage-race@autox.team.net>
>Cc: <jeffj@centuryrefining.com>
>Subject: 2005 Proposed Australian Austin Healey Invasion
>Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 14:05:05 -0500
>
>Jeff Johnk has been working with some Australian A/H racing friends to stage
>a June 2005 tour for them and their machines to possibly include Watkins
>Glen, VIR, Mid Ohio and Mosport. Anyone wishing to provide encouragement or
>assistance to Jeff can reach him at: jeffj@centuryrefining.com.
>
>VARAC has already indicated its interest in hosting the Mosport swing of the
>proposed tour.
>
>It would be most helpful if anyone having information concerning contacts
>with the UK A/H racing community would forward that to Jeff as well.
>
>Cheers!
--
Rick Snover, Vice President/Membership
Austin-Healey Club of San Diego <http://www.sdhealey.org>
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2004 10:27:27 EST
Subject: Looking for a BJ8
What we are looking for is a Gold Level BJ8. A very high quality car restored
to original standards and probably in the top 5% of the Healey market. Not
interested in popularity queens or projects, we are looking for the exceptional
car only.
The buyer is knowledgeable and qualified. What is cool about this is he is
not a speculator or broker but a guy who loves Healeys and this car will be
used
and will participate in all the local British car activities, not locked in a
warehouse.
Any leads greatly appreciated. I have no financial interest, just helping out
a friend, promoting the marque and qualifying the candidates for purchase.
I told him this shouldn't be too hard to find. He also wants a Silverstone.
Now that may present a challenge............
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sasktel.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2004 11:34:33 -0600
Subject: Seat Belts -thanks!
Kind regards
Ed
www.vintage-sportscar-touring.ca
'65 BJ8
From George Marinos <gmari at optonline.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2004 12:55:03 -0500
Subject: Long shot
Thanks
George Marinos
Glen Rock, NJ
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2004 15:20:58 -0500
Subject: Rear brake lining thickness
I just measured mine and the thickness is about 3.8 mm.
Thanks,
Peter Schauss
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2004 14:19:34 -0700
Subject: Re: Long shot
http://www.lincoln-club.org/
http://www.lcoc.org/
Dave Russell
BN2
George Marinos wrote:
> This is a long shot but the listers seem to know a lot of different cars.
> A friend is looking to join clubs suitable for the 1954 Lincoln Capri.
> Anyone have any suggestions?
> I think one can fit at least two sprites into one of these monsters.
>
> Thanks
> George Marinos
> Glen Rock, NJ
From busyrider at springmail.com
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2004 16:35:43 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Subject: Re: Looking for a BJ8
Fred Criswell
-----Original Message-----
From: Jwhlyadv@aol.com
Sent: Feb 21, 2004 10:27 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Looking for a BJ8
I have a friend who is an owner of a gold level 100-M and a prize winning
Bugeye. He now wants to add a BJ8 to his fleet.
What we are looking for is a Gold Level BJ8.
<snip>
The buyer is knowledgeable and qualified.
<snip>
He also wants a Silverstone.
From "David" <dcrawfor at san.rr.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 02:07:10 -0800
Subject: Re: Looking for a BJ8
I don't know what condition this BJ8 on EBay is in, but it's in La Jolla,
California in case you want to have a closer look.
I have no financial or other interests in the sale of the car.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2461057250&cate
gory=6023
David C
BN1
----- Original Message -----
From: busyrider@springmail.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2004 1:35 PM
Subject: Re: Looking for a BJ8
Not to be a harda**, but if he is "knowledgeable and qualified" why isn't he
getting his own hands dirty? $$$$$$$$$$ doesn't buy soul. I don't care if he
is going to "drive" the cars or not.
Fred Criswell
-----Original Message-----
From: Jwhlyadv@aol.com
Sent: Feb 21, 2004 10:27 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Looking for a BJ8
I have a friend who is an owner of a gold level 100-M and a prize winning
Bugeye. He now wants to add a BJ8 to his fleet.
What we are looking for is a Gold Level BJ8.
<snip>
The buyer is knowledgeable and qualified.
<snip>
He also wants a Silverstone.
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2004 15:18:08 -0700
Subject: Re: Rear brake lining thickness
I think that 4.42mm would be the new lining thickness. The wear limit
should be around 2.8mm or a little thinner.
Dave Russell
BN2
Peter Schauss wrote:
> What is the minimum thickness (i.e. time to replace)
> for the rear brake linings on a BJ7?
> The BMC manual lists 4.24 to 4.42 mm. Is this the spec for
> new linings or should I assume that if the thickness is less
> than 4.24 mm I should replace the linings?
>
> I just measured mine and the thickness is about 3.8 mm.
>
> Thanks,
> Peter Schauss
> 1980 MGB
> 1963 BJ7
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2004 15:29:44 -0700
Subject: Re: Looking for a BJ8
Do I detect a touch of envy here?
You ARE being a hard ass. There could be many reasons for him not
"getting his hands" dirty.
I personally have had 50 years of good learning experience with cars &
am somewhat knowledgeable. Unfortunately a medical condition precludes
my getting very involved in the hands on part now.
I'm glad that you are "superman". Enjoy it while it lasts.
Dave Russell
BN2
busyrider@springmail.com wrote:
> Not to be a harda**, but if he is "knowledgeable and qualified" why
> isn't he getting his own hands dirty? $$$$$$$$$$ doesn't buy soul. I
> don't care if he is going to "drive" the cars or not.
>
> Fred Criswell
>
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Jwhlyadv@aol.com Sent: Feb 21, 2004
> 10:27 AM To: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Looking for a BJ8
>
> I have a friend who is an owner of a gold level 100-M and a prize
> winning Bugeye. He now wants to add a BJ8 to his fleet.
>
> What we are looking for is a Gold Level BJ8.
>
> <snip>
>
> The buyer is knowledgeable and qualified.
>
> <snip>
>
> He also wants a Silverstone.
From "Ray Juncal" <gonzo18 at mindspring.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2004 15:19:00 -0800
Subject: Muffler sound off
From James Albeck <mybjate at earthlink.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2004 15:43:57 -0800
Subject: Re: Looking for a BJ8
> I have a friend who is an owner of a gold level 100-M and a prize winning
> Bugeye. He now wants to add a BJ8 to his fleet.
>
>Greetings Jim,
There are two excellent BJ8's in the Los Angeles area that are for sale.
Both are CA cars, OEWhite with black interior belonging to second owners.
The first is owned by Roland Schlanze (e-mail at <beanedepo@aol.com>) or
phone at 805-449-8767(Home). The second is owned by Michael Rooney (e-mail
at <mraudiman@earthlink.net>) or phone at 818-713-1955 (Daytime). No
interest on my part other than to see these wonderfull examples go to a
caring home.
Jim Albeck
Agoura, CA
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2004 16:13:22 -0800
Subject: Re: Exhaust - Abarth - ANSA
"From the back the BJ8 looks so unsightly
that I frequently liken it to the 'balls of a bulldog' hanging out there. "
Can't speak for other BJ8 owners, but I take this as a compliment
(especially coming from an Englishman ;)
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Bromfield" <Alan.Bromfield@ntl.com>
To: "'M Lempert'" <mlempert@bellsouth.net>
Cc: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2004 1:57 AM
Subject: RE: Exhaust - Abarth - ANSA
> Hey Mike.
> This is one of those great threads that really make this list such a great
> resource.
> My 'two-pennorth' is that the BJ8 is a dreadful concoction that looks
> unsightly and sounds strangled. From the back the BJ8 looks so unsightly
> that I frequently liken it to the 'balls of a bulldog' hanging out there.
>
> Within our club the best sounding exhaust that I have encountered is a Denis
> Welch system on a very nice Tri-Carb (Belongs to Jim Finch). So I tend to
> concur with your thoughts that the Roadster system is likely to have the
> largest market for those that want the sound and simplicity rather than
> originality.
>
> Count me in for a system for my BN4 - if the exchange rate continues to
> slide the price could be attractive this side of the pond too.
>
> AlanB
> BJ8 - 5footer
> BN4 - Project
> http://www.nfahc.co.uk
From "i erbs" <eyera3 at comcast.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: busyrider@springmail.com
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2004 16:15:35 -0800
Subject: Re: Looking for a BJ8
Fred,
Do I detect a touch of envy here?
You ARE being a hard ass. There could be many reasons for him not
"getting his hands" dirty.
I personally have had 50 years of good learning experience with cars &
am somewhat knowledgeable. Unfortunately a medical condition precludes
my getting very involved in the hands on part now.
I'm glad that you are "superman". Enjoy it while it lasts.
Dave Russell
BN2
busyrider@springmail.com wrote:
> Not to be a harda**, but if he is "knowledgeable and qualified" why
> isn't he getting his own hands dirty? $$$$$$$$$$ doesn't buy soul. I
> don't care if he is going to "drive" the cars or not. > > Fred
Criswell > > > -----Original Message----- From: Jwhlyadv@aol.com
Sent: Feb 21, 2004 > 10:27 AM To: healeys@autox.team.net Subject:
Looking for a BJ8 > > I have a friend who is an owner of a gold level
100-M and a prize > winning Bugeye. He now wants to add a BJ8 to his
fleet. > > What we are looking for is a Gold Level BJ8. > > <snip>
> > The buyer is knowledgeable and qualified. > > <snip> > > He
also wants a Silverstone.
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: busyrider@springmail.com
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2004 17:45:10 -0700
Subject: Re: Looking for a BJ8
Sorry to offend your delicate sensibilities. How can I make amends?
BTW - Your whining isn't helping anything. You could have replied off list.
Dave Russell
i erbs wrote:
> Stop it!
> Not another thread of crap being strewn about. Don't have anything nice
> to say, don't say it!
> Say it the person, not the whole list!
> I Erbs
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: busyrider@springmail.com
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2004 16:56:52 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Exhaust - Abarth - ANSA
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- Bob Spidell <bspidell@pacbell.net> wrote:
> re:
>
> "From the back the BJ8 looks so unsightly
> that I frequently liken it to the 'balls of a
> bulldog' hanging out there. "
>
>
> Can't speak for other BJ8 owners, but I take this as
> a compliment
> (especially coming from an Englishman ;)
>
>
> bs
>
> ********************************************
> Bob Spidell San Jose, CA
> bspidell@pacbell.net
> '67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey
> 100M
> ********************************************
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Alan Bromfield" <Alan.Bromfield@ntl.com>
> To: "'M Lempert'" <mlempert@bellsouth.net>
> Cc: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2004 1:57 AM
> Subject: RE: Exhaust - Abarth - ANSA
>
>
> > Hey Mike.
> > This is one of those great threads that really
> make this list such a great
> > resource.
> > My 'two-pennorth' is that the BJ8 is a dreadful
> concoction that looks
> > unsightly and sounds strangled. From the back the
> BJ8 looks so unsightly
> > that I frequently liken it to the 'balls of a
> bulldog' hanging out there.
> >
> > Within our club the best sounding exhaust that I
> have encountered is a Denis
> > Welch system on a very nice Tri-Carb (Belongs to
> Jim Finch). So I tend to
> > concur with your thoughts that the Roadster system
> is likely to have the
> > largest market for those that want the sound and
> simplicity rather than
> > originality.
> >
> > Count me in for a system for my BN4 - if the
> exchange rate continues to
> > slide the price could be attractive this side of
> the pond too.
> >
> > AlanB
> > BJ8 - 5footer
> > BN4 - Project
> > http://www.nfahc.co.uk
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: busyrider@springmail.com
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2004 20:34:00 -0500
Subject: Sending unit
Can anyone tell me how to remove the pin to which the float attaches from the
body of the unit? There is a nut inside and it appears to be on the pin but I
can't tell what to do with it.
TIA
Keith Pennell
From "i erbs" <eyera3 at comcast.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: busyrider@springmail.com
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2004 18:11:06 -0800
Subject: RE: Looking for a BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: Dave & Marlene [mailto:rusd@velocitus.net]
Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2004 4:45 PM
To: i erbs
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Looking for a BJ8
ierbs,
Sorry to offend your delicate sensibilities. How can I make amends? BTW
- Your whining isn't helping anything. You could have replied off list.
Dave Russell
i erbs wrote:
> Stop it!
> Not another thread of crap being strewn about. Don't have anything
> nice to say, don't say it! Say it the person, not the whole list!
> I Erbs
From Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: busyrider@springmail.com
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2004 18:29:28 -0800
Subject: Re: Looking for a BJ8
busyrider@springmail.com wrote:
>Not to be a harda**, but if he is "knowledgeable and qualified" why isn't he
>getting his own hands dirty? $$$$$$$$$$ doesn't buy soul. I don't care if he
>is going to "drive" the cars or not.
>
>Fred Criswell
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Jwhlyadv@aol.com
>Sent: Feb 21, 2004 10:27 AM
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Looking for a BJ8
>
>I have a friend who is an owner of a gold level 100-M and a prize winning
>Bugeye. He now wants to add a BJ8 to his fleet.
>
>What we are looking for is a Gold Level BJ8.
>
><snip>
>
>The buyer is knowledgeable and qualified.
>
><snip>
>
>He also wants a Silverstone.
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: busyrider@springmail.com
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2004 18:35:33 -0800
Subject: early BJ7 window rubber stops
Thanks,
John
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sasktel.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: busyrider@springmail.com
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2004 20:52:39 -0600
Subject: Re: Muffler sound off
Quite possibly a tin of Heinz's finest baked fed to each competitor
with the empty tins provided as hearing aids to the audience who
exhausted if not gassed could then thread their way home
amongst the dying cacophonous one part harmony of the event
should do it - big wink!
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
'65 BJ8
Ray Juncal wrote:
> List
> I was just talking with Steve Gerow on the phone and this muffler thread
> came up. We talked about getting various examples of cars with different
> exhaust systems together for a sound off at the Tahoe gathering. It could be
> an event at the slalom / speed location. Maybe a peoples choice type judging
> with categories like , stationary, at idle ,1500 rpm , 2500 rpm ,
> accelerating, decelerating, 30 mph drive by, 60 mph drive by, and/or ???
> We could do a Db reading at each stage and in the car at 30 and 60 to give a
> sense of driver seat conditions. There could be judging forms with first ,
> second , third and fourth in each category and a space for comments. The
> collated results and comments would make a good article for the magazine.
> What do the rest of you think I'm just throwing this out here to see what
> it stirs up. It could be fun as well as educational for spectators and
> participants alike.
> Healey on!
> Ray Juncal
> Toot toot!
From Dave Carpenter <d.carpenter7 at verizon.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: busyrider@springmail.com
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2004 22:04:40 -0500
Subject: Re: Muffler sound off
Dave
67 BJ8 stock system (for now)
Ray Juncal wrote:
>List
> I was just talking with Steve Gerow on the phone and this muffler thread
>came up. We talked about getting various examples of cars with different
>exhaust systems together for a sound off at the Tahoe gathering. It could be
>an event at the slalom / speed location. Maybe a peoples choice type judging
>with categories like , stationary, at idle ,1500 rpm , 2500 rpm ,
>accelerating, decelerating, 30 mph drive by, 60 mph drive by, and/or ???
>We could do a Db reading at each stage and in the car at 30 and 60 to give a
>sense of driver seat conditions. There could be judging forms with first ,
>second , third and fourth in each category and a space for comments. The
>collated results and comments would make a good article for the magazine.
> What do the rest of you think I'm just throwing this out here to see what
>it stirs up. It could be fun as well as educational for spectators and
>participants alike.
>Healey on!
>Ray Juncal
>Toot toot!
From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: busyrider@springmail.com
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2004 22:10:18 -0600
Subject: Re: Muffler sound off
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8....ughh, bodywork time
> I'm surprised no one has suggested or volunteered posting sound clips on
> a web page so we can all listen to the various systems . My son has done
> that with his Neons.org buddys. All you need to do is use a camcorder.
> Biggest deal would be who'd host it on a site.
>
> Dave
> 67 BJ8 stock system (for now)
>
> Ray Juncal wrote:
From "Rick" <webmasterrick at comcast.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: busyrider@springmail.com
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2004 22:42:21 -0600
Subject: Re: Looking for a BJ8
Ed was over here (next door) and sent the following reply to i erbs:
*******************************************************
-----Original Message-----
From: Webmaster [mailto:Webmaster@justbrits.com]
Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2004 4:31 PM
To: i erbs
Subject: Re: Looking for a BJ8
<<Say tit the person, not the whole list!>>
What in the HELL are you trying to say???
For someone with NO First name and prob'ly the "erbs" goes no where...
Shut up!!!
Sign your name, no prob.
Hide behind your "skirt"; Shut up.
Ed
******************************************************
The "reply" was:
"Typo meant to say "say it to the person just like you did." see this
was not for the whole list to read, but I guess I hit a hot button with
you. I do not use my whole name on a list because of privacy concerns
and as for the Erbs, that is my last name. I would not want someone to
send out my phone # and personal email on the whole list, as has
happened to others. I appreciate that you emailed me directly instead of
spewing you shit to everyone, and that was the point I was trying to
make so fuck off!"
******************************************************
Ed now has back at the keyboard -;) :
"Gents", guess the "politeness" has gone bye bye!! Check last three words!!
Appears Donna has NOT taught Irv the "art" of punctuation, think????
Would for SURE indicate that folks from Portland, Oregon have absolutely no
"grasp"
of the Queen's English???
Ira, I would sincerely suggest that you:
a] get a life.
b] get a hobby.
c] sell your BT-7 to someone that DESERVES her.
Sincerest regards.....................
Ed
'63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)
From "i erbs" <eyera3 at comcast.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: busyrider@springmail.com
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2004 20:52:46 -0800
Subject: RE: Looking for a BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: Rick [mailto:webmasterrick@comcast.net]
Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2004 6:50 PM
To: i erbs
Subject: Re: Looking for a BJ8
To all:
Ed was over here (next door) and sent the following reply to i erbs:
*******************************************************
-----Original Message-----
From: Webmaster [mailto:Webmaster@justbrits.com]
Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2004 4:31 PM
To: i erbs
Subject: Re: Looking for a BJ8
<<Say tit the person, not the whole list!>>
What in the HELL are you trying to say???
For someone with NO First name and prob'ly the "erbs" goes no where...
Shut up!!!
Sign your name, no prob.
Hide behind your "skirt"; Shut up.
Ed
******************************************************
The "reply" was:
"Typo meant to say "say it to the person just like you did." see this
was not for the whole list to read, but I guess I hit a hot button with
you. I do not use my whole name on a list because of privacy concerns
and as for the Erbs, that is my last name. I would not want someone to
send out my phone # and personal email on the whole list, as has
happened to others. I appreciate that you emailed me directly instead of
spewing you shit to everyone, and that was the point I was trying to
make so fuck off!"
******************************************************
Ed now has back at the keyboard -;) :
"Gents", guess the "politeness" has gone bye bye!! Check last three
words!! Appears Donna has NOT taught Irv the "art" of punctuation,
think????
Would for SURE indicate that folks from Portland, Oregon have absolutely
no "grasp" of the Queen's English???
Ira, I would sincerely suggest that you:
a] get a life.
b] get a hobby.
c] sell your BT-7 to someone that DESERVES her.
Sincerest regards.....................
Ed
'63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)
From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: busyrider@springmail.com
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 00:00:18 -0500
Subject: Re: Muffler sound off
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Masucci" <sooch@houston.rr.com>
To: "Dave Carpenter" <d.carpenter7@verizon.net>
Cc: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2004 11:10 PM
Subject: Re: Muffler sound off
| Actually, most PCs have a mic and can record right to a wav file or mp3.
| Very easy if you have a laptop.
|
| Cheers,
| Chris
| BJ8....ughh, bodywork time
|
|
| > I'm surprised no one has suggested or volunteered posting sound clips on
| > a web page so we can all listen to the various systems . My son has done
| > that with his Neons.org buddys. All you need to do is use a camcorder.
| > Biggest deal would be who'd host it on a site.
| >
| > Dave
| > 67 BJ8 stock system (for now)
| >
| > Ray Juncal wrote:
|
|
From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: busyrider@springmail.com
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2004 23:06:44 -0600
Subject: Re: Looking for a BJ8
It appears to me that Ed is capable of writing his own emails. For a while
I thought that maybe Ed had been injured or sick and could not reply in
person. Now it seems like he simply doesn't want to deal with the responses
he normally gets, due to his usually worthless posts. The below exchange is
just another example of Ed...sort of reminds me of the schoolyard bully that
will say something derogitory as long as he can get away with it, without
anyone else knowing. C'mon man, stand up for yourself if you feel strongly
enough to say it, and let the world know. Ed, don't hide behind someone
elses username, unless you wish for me and others to lose what little
respect for you that we may still have.
Of course if your hands have been broken or otherwise inoperative for the
past year or so, I apoligize and hope you get better soon.
Chris,
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2004 10:42 PM
Subject: Re: Looking for a BJ8
> To all:
>
> Ed was over here (next door) and sent the following reply to i erbs:
> *******************************************************
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Webmaster [mailto:Webmaster@justbrits.com]
> Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2004 4:31 PM
> To: i erbs
> Subject: Re: Looking for a BJ8
>
>
> <<Say tit the person, not the whole list!>>
>
> What in the HELL are you trying to say???
>
> For someone with NO First name and prob'ly the "erbs" goes no where...
>
> Shut up!!!
>
> Sign your name, no prob.
>
> Hide behind your "skirt"; Shut up.
>
> Ed
> ******************************************************
> The "reply" was:
>
> "Typo meant to say "say it to the person just like you did." see this
> was not for the whole list to read, but I guess I hit a hot button with
> you. I do not use my whole name on a list because of privacy concerns
> and as for the Erbs, that is my last name. I would not want someone to
> send out my phone # and personal email on the whole list, as has
> happened to others. I appreciate that you emailed me directly instead of
> spewing you shit to everyone, and that was the point I was trying to
> make so fuck off!"
> ******************************************************
> Ed now has back at the keyboard -;) :
>
> "Gents", guess the "politeness" has gone bye bye!! Check last three
words!!
> Appears Donna has NOT taught Irv the "art" of punctuation, think????
>
> Would for SURE indicate that folks from Portland, Oregon have absolutely
no
> "grasp"
> of the Queen's English???
>
> Ira, I would sincerely suggest that you:
>
> a] get a life.
> b] get a hobby.
> c] sell your BT-7 to someone that DESERVES her.
>
> Sincerest regards.....................
>
> Ed
> '63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)
From GSFuqua1 at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: busyrider@springmail.com
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 00:13:35 EST
Subject: Re: Looking for a BJ8
Please consider what you are saying and let's try to get back to the
enjoyment of our hobby, sport, passion or whatever we individually wish to call
it.
Gary Fuqua
Branson, Missouri
From Dave Carpenter <d.carpenter7 at verizon.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: busyrider@springmail.com
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 00:41:48 -0500
Subject: Re: Muffler sound off
Dave
Healeyolic wrote:
>I have a wav file of a Healey. If anyone wants it, let me know directly and
>I'll send you a copy.
>
>John Sims, BN6
>Aberdeen, NJ
From Mark Norris <m.norris at shaw.ca>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: busyrider@springmail.com
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2004 21:58:09 -0800
Subject: looking for a BJ8
From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: busyrider@springmail.com
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 08:10:45 -0500
Subject: Re: Exhaust - Abarth - ANSA
Tom
65 BJ8
> [Original Message]
> From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@pacbell.net>
> To: healeylist <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 2/21/04 7:15:29 PM
> Subject: Re: Exhaust - Abarth - ANSA
>
> re:
>
> "From the back the BJ8 looks so unsightly
> that I frequently liken it to the 'balls of a bulldog' hanging out there.
"
>
>
> Can't speak for other BJ8 owners, but I take this as a compliment
> (especially coming from an Englishman ;)
>
>
> bs
>
> ********************************************
> Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
> '67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
> ********************************************
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Alan Bromfield" <Alan.Bromfield@ntl.com>
> To: "'M Lempert'" <mlempert@bellsouth.net>
> Cc: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2004 1:57 AM
> Subject: RE: Exhaust - Abarth - ANSA
>
>
> > Hey Mike.
> > This is one of those great threads that really make this list such a
great
> > resource.
> > My 'two-pennorth' is that the BJ8 is a dreadful concoction that looks
> > unsightly and sounds strangled. From the back the BJ8 looks so
unsightly
> > that I frequently liken it to the 'balls of a bulldog' hanging out
there.
> >
> > Within our club the best sounding exhaust that I have encountered is a
Denis
> > Welch system on a very nice Tri-Carb (Belongs to Jim Finch). So I tend
to
> > concur with your thoughts that the Roadster system is likely to have the
> > largest market for those that want the sound and simplicity rather than
> > originality.
> >
> > Count me in for a system for my BN4 - if the exchange rate continues to
> > slide the price could be attractive this side of the pond too.
> >
> > AlanB
> > BJ8 - 5footer
> > BN4 - Project
> > http://www.nfahc.co.uk
From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: busyrider@springmail.com
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 09:37:56 -0500
Subject: RE: Looking for a BJ8
Unfortunately now, at this time in my life...and for the foreseeable decade,
it's unimaginable for me to believe I have enough
spare time to repair a car or even attempt to restore one. Fortunately now,
I have the means, which enables me to have
professionals repair & restore my cars thereby allowing me, when I do have
spare time, to enjoy the classic car hobby.
Gary R. Cox (age 48, with to many hobbies & not enough time)
'67 BJ8 (professionally restored) 2003 Conclave First in Class
Now looking for a '74 Ferrari 246 Dino GTS Spyder to restore
Bradenton, FL
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: busyrider@springmail.com
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 10:07:27 -0700
Subject: Re: Exhaust - Abarth - ANSA
Dave Russell
BN2 with none.
tom felts wrote:
> At least we know the BJ8 has "balls"!:):)
>
> Tom
> 65 BJ8
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: busyrider@springmail.com
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 12:32:53 -0500
Subject: Interesting tech tips
While browsing around came across these interesting tech tips
http://www.bmcno.org/techtip.htm#MISC_BRITISH
Keith Pennell
From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: busyrider@springmail.com
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 13:10:43 EST
Subject: Speedo, cable angle drive queries
OR, the cable is worn at either end. Any ideas there?
Or have I missed the point entirely and need to start all over? Nothing would
surprise me!!
Simon.
From ZManDino at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: busyrider@springmail.com
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 13:59:34 EST
Subject: Laws for British Sports Cars
> The Laws for British Sports Cars
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> LAWS THAT CANNOT BE BROKEN
>
> Most of us are familiar with the physical laws discovered by Sir Isaac
> Newton, the guy who invented gravity. He said things like, "For every
> action there is an equal and opposite reaction."
>
> Newton's laws made sense for hundreds of years, and everybody believed
> them. They believed them right up until the time when British sports
> cars were invented, when it was suddenly realized that a whole new bunch
> of laws was going to be needed.
>
> Many distinguished scientists, with names like Morris, Healey, Leyland,
> Mowog and Murphy, shook the scientific community when they published a
> new theory of mechanical behavior called "The Laws For British Sports
> Cars". Many people are not familiar with the five major laws, so they
> are listed below with a brief explanation of each.
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> LAW OF PECULIAR RANDOM NOMENCLATURE
> "The name of a British sports car shall consist primarily of letters and
> numbers, with said letters and numbers chosen in random fashion so that
> the resultant vehicle name is totally devoid of any meaning." This law
> explains why British cars have spectacularly bad names, like "E-Type",
> or worse yet, "MGB-GT."
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> LAW OF CRYPTIC INSTRUCTION
> "Any book, manual, pamphlet, or text dealing with the maintenance,
> repair or restoration of a British sports car shall be written so that
> at least every fourth word will be unknown to the average reader. In the
> event that any portion of the text is understandable, the information
> contained therein shall be incorrect." Most people are familiar with
> this law. Here is an exerpt from page 132 of the MGA Shop Manual:
> "Before rebushing the lower grunnion banjos, you must remove the bonnet
> fascia and undo the A-arm nut with a #3 spanner." All attempts to
> publish an English language version of this manual have failed.
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> LOVE OF HARDSHIP LAW
> "The more a British sports car malfunctions, breaks, and/or falls apart,
> the more endearing it becomes to the owner." You buy a British sports
> car. You have had it a year and a half and have replaced every item on
> the car at least twice. When the engine is started, it sounds as if
> someone has thrown a handful of ball bearings into a blender. But when
> someone offers to buy it, you are offended because "it is like part of
> the family," and besides, "it is so much fun to drive." British sports
> car owners often stare into space and smile a lot.
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> LAW OF NON-FUNCTIONAL ATTRIBUTES
> "All British sports cars, regardless of condition or age, shall always
> have at least one system or subsystem of components which is entirely
> non-functional, and which cannot be repaired except on a semi-permanent
> or semi-functional basis." (Also known as the "Lucas Electrics Law".)
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> RECENTLY DISCOVERED COMPONENT FAILURE LAW
> "Any component of a British sports car which is entirely unknown to the
> owner shall function perfectly, until such time that the owner becomes
> aware of said component's existence, when it shall instantly fail." Case
> in point: The author owned a rather natty MGB for six years. He never
> knew there was such a thing as a "Gulp Valve" until he saw new ones
> offered for sale by Moss Motors. The next day, while driving to work,
> his gulp valve fell off the engine and was promptly run over by a truck.
> He bought a new one, figuring to install it himself, but after one look
> at the shop manual, he decided to have someone else install it. (See
> "Law of Cryptic Instructions", above).
>
> While driving the car to a local repair establishment, he notices that
> the MGB is performing just as well as it ever did, and that the loss of
> the mysterious Gulp Valve has not had any effect on its behavior. He
> figures this is due to the "Non-Functional Attribute Law", so he decides
> not to replace it after all.
>
> Three days later, the engine had no more oil in it and promptly seized
> into a solid mass of metal. The tow truck operator, being ignorant of
> the "Love of Hardship Law", offers to take the car off his hand for
> $100. The owner just smiled.
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
Alex Z
'60 BN7
-
From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "tom felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 13:07:14 -0600
Subject: Re: Exhaust - Abarth - ANSA
> Strange -- So many people call their cars, even BJ8's, her or she.
>
> Dave Russell
> BN2 with none.
>
> tom felts wrote:
> > At least we know the BJ8 has "balls"!:):)
> >
> > Tom
> > 65 BJ8
From "Ron Fine Esq." <RonFineEsq at earthlink.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "tom felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 11:28:17 -0800
Subject: Test please delete
From RAWDAWGS at aol.com
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "tom felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 14:46:35 EST
Subject: crank nut
Scott McPherson
Lake Charles La
BN4 Longbridge
Happy Mardi Gras!
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "tom felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 13:29:16 -0700
Subject: Re: crank nut
I would start with something like 20 or 30 wt engine oil. If things seem
to be stuck you may need some kind of penetrating oil. (I hope not) You
need a 1 11/16 wrench for the front nut.
Dave Russell
BN2
RAWDAWGS@aol.com wrote:
> My engine has been setting up for a while and I want to free it up. 1. What
> is the consensus on what type of lubricant to put in the spark plug holes?
>And
> 2. What size socket do I need to turn the crank with a breaker bar? Thanks in
> advance, SM
>
> Scott McPherson
> Lake Charles La
> BN4 Longbridge
> Happy Mardi Gras!
From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "tom felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 14:48:04 -0600
Subject: Re: crank nut
Doing it this way will allow the rings to reseat and the rust buildup to be
actually used as a fine abrasive to smooth the cylinder walls. Unless there
is serious pitting, you usually won't even have to replace the rings. Don't
just try to turn the crank round and round, since if the rings are stuck at
all it will usually destroy them.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
> My engine has been setting up for a while and I want to free it up. 1.
What
> is the consensus on what type of lubricant to put in the spark plug holes?
And
> 2. What size socket do I need to turn the crank with a breaker bar? Thanks
in
> advance, SM
>
> Scott McPherson
> Lake Charles La
> BN4 Longbridge
> Happy Mardi Gras!
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "tom felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 15:55:20 EST
Subject: Mounting and Balancing in SF Bay Area
> From: "tom felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
> Subject: RE: Tire Balancer
>
> Yes. There was a guy in Southern In. who had one of these a few years ago
> and I took my Healey there. He never could get them balanced---primarily
> because they were not trued properly and were missing a few
> spokes-------------------no, not anymore:)
>
> Tom
>
For anyone in the San Francisco Bay area looking for a place that still can
mount tires and balance wire wheels with the proper cone-adaptors and a
tolerance for old tube-type tires and non-machine dismounting and mounting of
tires,
Randy at Los Altos Tires on First Street in Los Altos. 650-948-5047 can still
do all this. I took the chrome wire wheel from my Jaguar Mk2 to him last week
to replace the punctured tire and tube and he had it all done and the wheel
rebalanced in about 20 minutes for less than $20.
Cheeres
Gary
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "tom felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 12:55:57 -0800
Subject: Re: Speedo, cable angle drive queries
Angle drives are pretty simple - either they're working or not. Either
turning the cable or not. There could be some drag issues, but I doubt that
is the case with your problem. You say that the speedo needle is
under-reading. My guess is that the speedo calibration is not correct for
your new diff gearing. You also say the the needle reading is steady, which
indicates that the speedometer is physically okay, and that the cable, angle
drive, and the output gear in the overdrive rear case are all fine.
The gearbox, overdrive, etc. does not affect the speedometer output pinion,
the only gearing change that would have the impact that you outline is the
differential ratio.
Do a test: Drive your BJ9 (any regular car with a known accurate odometer)
over a fixed route of say approximately 5 miles, then replicate the route
exactly in the Healey and note the odometer readings to find the difference.
This will tell you the story with regard to the odometers mechanical
difference - note that the speedometer needle is magnetically driven, and
can be off even with the odometer being accurate.
What I have done on occasion is to make sure that the odometer / speedometer
is calibrated to original specs, and then used a ratio adapter. This is
basically a little gearbox affair installed in line with the speedo cable in
order to achieve the correct cable speed for the instrument. It has
selective intermediate gears inside to do this, and also to leave it's
output rotating in the same direction as its input. To me, the advantage
of doing it this way is that the speedometer itself remains geared
internally as original, in case it ever has to be repaired or replaced, and
the car can easily be returned to the original diff if desired - simply
remove the ratio adapter. Just my opinion.
Another way would be to find a non-overdrive speedometer from any
white-gauged 3000
(including BJ7). This unit would match the 3:545 diff gearing without any
modification, or the need for a ratio adapter. These are a bit rare, so the
expense might not be worth it.
Cheers,
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BT7 tri-carb
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 22, 2004 10:10 AM
Subject: Speedo, cable angle drive queries
Hello,
My speedometer was rebuilt (to my complete satisfaction) then recalibrated
as
I had fitted a different Overdrive and diff to standard.
Sadly it under reads very considerably.
Now, (1) I sent the supplier the precise information requested regarding the
distance travelled versus the number of cable revolutions etcetc...all
double
checked.
And, (2) The reading is firm ie it doesn't flicker all over the place.
So, I'm forced to think that EITHER the cable is worn at either end or the
angle drive is u/s.
Who knows anything about angle drives?? This one LOOKS fine...how can one
tell anything about these things?
And does anyone have any experience of the new angle drives currently on the
market??
OR, the cable is worn at either end. Any ideas there?
Or have I missed the point entirely and need to start all over? Nothing
would
surprise me!!
Simon.
From "George" <leavcast at infomagic.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "tom felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 13:57:27 -0700
Subject: Burgess muffler
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34203&item
=2462200148
No financial interest. Just passing it along.
George Castleberry
Flagstaff, AZ
1954 BN1L-157155
1973 GMC Painted Desert
From "Peter Ryner" <pryner at verizon.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "tom felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 16:03:34 -0500
Subject: RE: crank nut
RAWDAWGS@aol.com wrote:
> My engine has been setting up for a while and I want to free it up. 1.
What
> is the consensus on what type of lubricant to put in the spark plug holes?
And
> 2. What size socket do I need to turn the crank with a breaker bar? Thanks
in
> advance, SM
>
> Scott McPherson
> Lake Charles La
> BN4 Longbridge
> Happy Mardi Gras!
From "Rick" <webmasterrick at comcast.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "tom felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 17:55:28 -0600
Subject: Wow!!
http://tinyurl.com/35dgn
-;)
Rick
From carlalony2 at aol.com
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "tom felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 19:15:02 EST
Subject: Re: Wow!!
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
Classic White.jpg]
From "Ron Davies" <rdavies1 at cox.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "tom felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 16:48:01 -0800
Subject: color of BJ8 brake drums
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "tom felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 17:23:30 -0800
Subject: It's gonna run again!
I know that 99% of you really don't care about this, but some of the folks on
the West Coast (USA) might. And, I'm so happy that I just have to tell
someone.
HBN7L-14494 (3000 MK2, tri-carb, 2 seat), only 355 made, is on its way to
running again. This car was disassembled in the late 70s or early 80s. Its
last owner was Wayne Brown of Oregon. I think that he bought it the
disassembled condition.
The damage to the chassis has been professionally repaired, and the chassis
has been Powder Coated Healey Blue. It was a real hassle getting that color.
Today I installed the factory original Car Number and Body Number plates.
The engine, trans, o'd are done. Next comes the suspension, etc, and from
there to a driving chassis.
Sorry to bomb the List, but I think some good news is in order after all the
personal slamming.
John Snyder
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "tom felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 17:30:26 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: color of BJ8 brake drums
OEM color is bright metallic silver, semi gloss
finish. If you have silver engine enamel at your
local parts store, that should suffice.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- Ron Davies <rdavies1@cox.net> wrote:
> What is the correct color of a 67 BJ8 rear brake
> drum?
> I thought it was black. The E-Bay 65k one is
> off-white.
> Thinking of re-painting mine.
> Thanks,
> Ron
From MBran89793 at aol.com
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "tom felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 20:33:04 EST
Subject: Re: color of BJ8 brake drums
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
Concours Committee Member
From GSFuqua1 at aol.com
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "tom felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 21:00:11 EST
Subject: Re: It's gonna run again!
Cheers & Motor On,
Gary Fuqua
Branson, Missouri
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "tom felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 19:01:54 -0700
Subject: Re: color of BJ8 brake drums
As far as I know, silver grey, sort of dull silver, same as the wheels.
Dave Russell
BN2
Ron Davies wrote:
> What is the correct color of a 67 BJ8 rear brake drum?
> I thought it was black. The E-Bay 65k one is off-white.
> Thinking of re-painting mine.
> Thanks,
> Ron
From "Robert Poague" <rapoague at gte.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "tom felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 21:19:00 -0800
Subject: Re: It's gonna run again!
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 22, 2004 5:23 PM
Subject: It's gonna run again!
> Hi List,
>
> I know that 99% of you really don't care about this, but some of the folks
on
> the West Coast (USA) might. And, I'm so happy that I just have to tell
> someone.
>
> HBN7L-14494 (3000 MK2, tri-carb, 2 seat), only 355 made, is on its way to
> running again. This car was disassembled in the late 70s or early 80s.
Its
> last owner was Wayne Brown of Oregon. I think that he bought it the
> disassembled condition.
>
> The damage to the chassis has been professionally repaired, and the
chassis
> has been Powder Coated Healey Blue. It was a real hassle getting that
color.
> Today I installed the factory original Car Number and Body Number plates.
>
> The engine, trans, o'd are done. Next comes the suspension, etc, and
from
> there to a driving chassis.
>
> Sorry to bomb the List, but I think some good news is in order after all
the
> personal slamming.
>
> John Snyder
From "David Masucci" <dmasucci at radiantsoundworks.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "tom felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 06:55:27 -0500
Subject: Re: Looking for a BJ8
Sometimes I enjoy this list. Sometimes people are genuinely trying to be
helpful. It makes me feel good about this hobby and the people involved.
Other times I find there is a lot of "naa,naaa,na,naaa,naaaa,naaaaaaa, mine
is better than youuuurs is", schoolyard, small people crap. It REALLY is a
turn off and I really wish some would become bigger people. Sometimes
there's helpful and friendly chat. Sometimes there is snobbery that makes me
want to laugh...or just walk away. I remember not too long ago talking about
a subject pertaining to our cars. one respondent basically said "my car was
perfect", and "for those of you who have one of THOSE kinds of cars"...blah
blah blah. In other words his car was the way Healeys should be, and oh
shame on you if you don't have that. "One of THOSE kinds of cars" he said.
What did that mean? What was it meant to mean? He was referring to my car,
and maybe 70% of our cars. It was a put-down obviously. His was better. Get
a freakin' grip people. Didn't September 11th re-teach you anything about
what's important in this world. These cars are a freakin' hobby. As much as
I love my Healey, IT'S A FREAKIN' CAR!!!!!! People...and there feelings are
more important than ANY Healey. And no-one is impresses that your car is
better than the other guys. Because by making statements like that, the man
proved that HE is less..of lower quality that the other GUY. So he proved
that his car is better, and that he is not. I for one would much rather be
judged for who and what I am, not for my stupid car. And that is coming from
a guy who has been around Healeys since he was about 5 years old. BTW in
case some have forgotten, Healeys were the Miata's of the day folks. The
poor mans sports car. If you want to be a snob, I for one would prefer that
you sell the Healey and buy something else. If my vote matters, snobs are
not wanted here. Please let's make this list a reasonable forum where
helpful and grow-up (pretend okay!) people can talk about their cars...and
what's broken now.
Cheers to all,
Dave
BJ8
From "F. Ronald Rader" <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "tom felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 23:11:40 -0800
Subject: Re: Looking for a BJ8
At 03:55 AM 2/22/2004, David Masucci wrote:
>This letter may annoy some. It is only my opinion. It does not directly
>pertain to the present bickering, but it's related. Delete if you choose.
>
>Sometimes I enjoy this list. Sometimes people are genuinely trying to be
>helpful. It makes me feel good about this hobby and the people involved.
>Other times I find there is a lot of "naa,naaa,na,naaa,naaaa,naaaaaaa, mine
>is better than youuuurs is", schoolyard, small people crap. It REALLY is a
>turn off and I really wish some would become bigger people. Sometimes
>there's helpful and friendly chat. Sometimes there is snobbery that makes me
>want to laugh...or just walk away. I remember not too long ago talking about
>a subject pertaining to our cars. one respondent basically said "my car was
>perfect", and "for those of you who have one of THOSE kinds of cars"...blah
>blah blah. In other words his car was the way Healeys should be, and oh
>shame on you if you don't have that. "One of THOSE kinds of cars" he said.
>What did that mean? What was it meant to mean? He was referring to my car,
>and maybe 70% of our cars. It was a put-down obviously. His was better. Get
>a freakin' grip people. Didn't September 11th re-teach you anything about
>what's important in this world. These cars are a freakin' hobby. As much as
>I love my Healey, IT'S A FREAKIN' CAR!!!!!! People...and there feelings are
>more important than ANY Healey. And no-one is impresses that your car is
>better than the other guys. Because by making statements like that, the man
>proved that HE is less..of lower quality that the other GUY. So he proved
>that his car is better, and that he is not. I for one would much rather be
>judged for who and what I am, not for my stupid car. And that is coming from
>a guy who has been around Healeys since he was about 5 years old. BTW in
>case some have forgotten, Healeys were the Miata's of the day folks. The
>poor mans sports car. If you want to be a snob, I for one would prefer that
>you sell the Healey and buy something else. If my vote matters, snobs are
>not wanted here. Please let's make this list a reasonable forum where
>helpful and grow-up (pretend okay!) people can talk about their cars...and
>what's broken now.
>
>Cheers to all,
>Dave
>BJ8
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "tom felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 01:24:36 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Looking for a BJ8
Yeah, but my BJ8 is better than your BJ8. ;-)
Actually what you said is very true. Well said!
Although I am more of a purist personally, one of my
favorite cars at Tahoe was the yellow bugeye with the
fuel injected 7-1/5 liter big block Mopar V-8 in it...
if it makes you happy... I think it's cool! The best
way to look at a hobby...
Now if I could only get my hands on a '57 D type so I
could, at last, claim without hesitation that my car
is better than the Joneses.
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- David Masucci <dmasucci@radiantsoundworks.com>
wrote:
> This letter may annoy some. It is only my opinion.
> It does not directly
> pertain to the present bickering, but it's related.
> Delete if you choose.
>
> Sometimes I enjoy this list. Sometimes people are
> genuinely trying to be
> helpful. It makes me feel good about this hobby and
> the people involved.
> Other times I find there is a lot of
> "naa,naaa,na,naaa,naaaa,naaaaaaa, mine
> is better than youuuurs is", schoolyard, small
> people crap. It REALLY is a
> turn off and I really wish some would become bigger
> people. Sometimes
> there's helpful and friendly chat. Sometimes there
> is snobbery that makes me
> want to laugh...or just walk away. I remember not
> too long ago talking about
> a subject pertaining to our cars. one respondent
> basically said "my car was
> perfect", and "for those of you who have one of
> THOSE kinds of cars"...blah
> blah blah. In other words his car was the way
> Healeys should be, and oh
> shame on you if you don't have that. "One of THOSE
> kinds of cars" he said.
> What did that mean? What was it meant to mean? He
> was referring to my car,
> and maybe 70% of our cars. It was a put-down
> obviously. His was better. Get
> a freakin' grip people. Didn't September 11th
> re-teach you anything about
> what's important in this world. These cars are a
> freakin' hobby. As much as
> I love my Healey, IT'S A FREAKIN' CAR!!!!!!
> People...and there feelings are
> more important than ANY Healey. And no-one is
> impresses that your car is
> better than the other guys. Because by making
> statements like that, the man
> proved that HE is less..of lower quality that the
> other GUY. So he proved
> that his car is better, and that he is not. I for
> one would much rather be
> judged for who and what I am, not for my stupid car.
> And that is coming from
> a guy who has been around Healeys since he was about
> 5 years old. BTW in
> case some have forgotten, Healeys were the Miata's
> of the day folks. The
> poor mans sports car. If you want to be a snob, I
> for one would prefer that
> you sell the Healey and buy something else. If my
> vote matters, snobs are
> not wanted here. Please let's make this list a
> reasonable forum where
> helpful and grow-up (pretend okay!) people can talk
> about their cars...and
> what's broken now.
>
> Cheers to all,
> Dave
> BJ8
From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "tom felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 07:49:15 -0500
Subject: RE: Wow!!
tom
> [Original Message]
> From: Rick <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 2/22/04 6:57:50 PM
> Subject: Wow!!
>
> Here ya go gents!!!
>
> http://tinyurl.com/35dgn
>
> -;)
>
> Rick
From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "tom felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 07:50:31 -0500
Subject: RE: color of BJ8 brake drums
Tom
> [Original Message]
> From: Ron Davies <rdavies1@cox.net>
> To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 2/22/04 7:52:04 PM
> Subject: color of BJ8 brake drums
>
> What is the correct color of a 67 BJ8 rear brake drum?
> I thought it was black. The E-Bay 65k one is off-white.
> Thinking of re-painting mine.
> Thanks,
> Ron
From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "tom felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 08:02:24 -0500
Subject: Re: Looking for a BJ8
Rather than write these kind of letters, it is sometimes better to let the
topic or attitude run its' course.
Regards
Tom
> [Original Message]
> From: David Masucci <dmasucci@radiantsoundworks.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 2/23/04 1:56:56 AM
> Subject: Re: Looking for a BJ8
>
> This letter may annoy some. It is only my opinion. It does not directly
> pertain to the present bickering, but it's related. Delete if you choose.
>
> Sometimes I enjoy this list. Sometimes people are genuinely trying to be
> helpful. It makes me feel good about this hobby and the people involved.
> Other times I find there is a lot of "naa,naaa,na,naaa,naaaa,naaaaaaa,
mine
> is better than youuuurs is", schoolyard, small people crap. It REALLY is a
> turn off and I really wish some would become bigger people. Sometimes
> there's helpful and friendly chat. Sometimes there is snobbery that makes
me
> want to laugh...or just walk away. I remember not too long ago talking
about
> a subject pertaining to our cars. one respondent basically said "my car
was
> perfect", and "for those of you who have one of THOSE kinds of
cars"...blah
> blah blah. In other words his car was the way Healeys should be, and oh
> shame on you if you don't have that. "One of THOSE kinds of cars" he said.
> What did that mean? What was it meant to mean? He was referring to my car,
> and maybe 70% of our cars. It was a put-down obviously. His was better.
Get
> a freakin' grip people. Didn't September 11th re-teach you anything about
> what's important in this world. These cars are a freakin' hobby. As much
as
> I love my Healey, IT'S A FREAKIN' CAR!!!!!! People...and there feelings
are
> more important than ANY Healey. And no-one is impresses that your car is
> better than the other guys. Because by making statements like that, the
man
> proved that HE is less..of lower quality that the other GUY. So he proved
> that his car is better, and that he is not. I for one would much rather be
> judged for who and what I am, not for my stupid car. And that is coming
from
> a guy who has been around Healeys since he was about 5 years old. BTW in
> case some have forgotten, Healeys were the Miata's of the day folks. The
> poor mans sports car. If you want to be a snob, I for one would prefer
that
> you sell the Healey and buy something else. If my vote matters, snobs are
> not wanted here. Please let's make this list a reasonable forum where
> helpful and grow-up (pretend okay!) people can talk about their cars...and
> what's broken now.
>
> Cheers to all,
> Dave
> BJ8
From "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson at thicko.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "tom felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 08:01:05 -0600
Subject: craters and freighters
I recently had to make arrangements to ship a big Healey hardtop from the
Tampa area to IL. I contacted Craters and Freighters
http://www.cratersandfreighters.com .
They picked up the top from the Ebay seller, expertly packed it on a custom
cardboard & foam crate, lashed it to a pallet, and arranged for Yellow
Freight shipping to my door.
The price was very reasonable, the service excellent. Highly recommended.
(no financial interest, just a happy customer.)
WST
From Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "tom felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 06:01:13 -0800
Subject: Re: It's gonna run again!
Congrats!!! Aint it fun.. Must look great with new powder coating.
Tracy
John Snyder wrote:
>Hi List,
>
>I know that 99% of you really don't care about this, but some of the folks on
>the West Coast (USA) might. And, I'm so happy that I just have to tell
>someone.
>
>HBN7L-14494 (3000 MK2, tri-carb, 2 seat), only 355 made, is on its way to
>running again. This car was disassembled in the late 70s or early 80s. Its
>last owner was Wayne Brown of Oregon. I think that he bought it the
>disassembled condition.
>
>The damage to the chassis has been professionally repaired, and the chassis
>has been Powder Coated Healey Blue. It was a real hassle getting that color.
>Today I installed the factory original Car Number and Body Number plates.
>
>The engine, trans, o'd are done. Next comes the suspension, etc, and from
>there to a driving chassis.
>
>Sorry to bomb the List, but I think some good news is in order after all the
>personal slamming.
>
>John Snyder
From Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "tom felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 05:57:15 -0800
Subject: Re: Laws for British Sports Cars
LAW OF EXPONENTS (AKA - Might as well rebuild it now since I have it out)
When attempting any repair, the amount of effort, and parts increases to
at least double. For example: When replacing a shock,
one discovers that the shock tower cap also needs to be cut out and
replaced, doubling the time and cost to do the initial repair.
To gain access to weld the shock tower cap the steering column must be
removed. One might as well rebuild the steering gear box
now since I have it out. This continues exponentially until the entire
front end has been renewed, rebuilt or staged for same.
This was my weekend.......................LOL
By the way what's the general procedure for a steering column removal?
(suspension removed)
Tracy
ZManDino@aol.com wrote:
>This explains why Healey owners smile so much.
>
>
>
>
>>The Laws for British Sports Cars
>>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>LAWS THAT CANNOT BE BROKEN
>>
>>Most of us are familiar with the physical laws discovered by Sir Isaac
>>Newton, the guy who invented gravity. He said things like, "For every
>>action there is an equal and opposite reaction."
>>
>>Newton's laws made sense for hundreds of years, and everybody believed
>>them. They believed them right up until the time when British sports
>>cars were invented, when it was suddenly realized that a whole new bunch
>>of laws was going to be needed.
>>
>>Many distinguished scientists, with names like Morris, Healey, Leyland,
>>Mowog and Murphy, shook the scientific community when they published a
>>new theory of mechanical behavior called "The Laws For British Sports
>>Cars". Many people are not familiar with the five major laws, so they
>>are listed below with a brief explanation of each.
>>
>>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>LAW OF PECULIAR RANDOM NOMENCLATURE
>>"The name of a British sports car shall consist primarily of letters and
>>numbers, with said letters and numbers chosen in random fashion so that
>>the resultant vehicle name is totally devoid of any meaning." This law
>>explains why British cars have spectacularly bad names, like "E-Type",
>>or worse yet, "MGB-GT."
>>
>>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>LAW OF CRYPTIC INSTRUCTION
>>"Any book, manual, pamphlet, or text dealing with the maintenance,
>>repair or restoration of a British sports car shall be written so that
>>at least every fourth word will be unknown to the average reader. In the
>>event that any portion of the text is understandable, the information
>>contained therein shall be incorrect." Most people are familiar with
>>this law. Here is an exerpt from page 132 of the MGA Shop Manual:
>>"Before rebushing the lower grunnion banjos, you must remove the bonnet
>>fascia and undo the A-arm nut with a #3 spanner." All attempts to
>>publish an English language version of this manual have failed.
>>
>>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>LOVE OF HARDSHIP LAW
>>"The more a British sports car malfunctions, breaks, and/or falls apart,
>>the more endearing it becomes to the owner." You buy a British sports
>>car. You have had it a year and a half and have replaced every item on
>>the car at least twice. When the engine is started, it sounds as if
>>someone has thrown a handful of ball bearings into a blender. But when
>>someone offers to buy it, you are offended because "it is like part of
>>the family," and besides, "it is so much fun to drive." British sports
>>car owners often stare into space and smile a lot.
>>
>>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>LAW OF NON-FUNCTIONAL ATTRIBUTES
>>"All British sports cars, regardless of condition or age, shall always
>>have at least one system or subsystem of components which is entirely
>>non-functional, and which cannot be repaired except on a semi-permanent
>>or semi-functional basis." (Also known as the "Lucas Electrics Law".)
>>
>>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>RECENTLY DISCOVERED COMPONENT FAILURE LAW
>>"Any component of a British sports car which is entirely unknown to the
>>owner shall function perfectly, until such time that the owner becomes
>>aware of said component's existence, when it shall instantly fail." Case
>>in point: The author owned a rather natty MGB for six years. He never
>>knew there was such a thing as a "Gulp Valve" until he saw new ones
>>offered for sale by Moss Motors. The next day, while driving to work,
>>his gulp valve fell off the engine and was promptly run over by a truck.
>>He bought a new one, figuring to install it himself, but after one look
>>at the shop manual, he decided to have someone else install it. (See
>>"Law of Cryptic Instructions", above).
>>
>>While driving the car to a local repair establishment, he notices that
>>the MGB is performing just as well as it ever did, and that the loss of
>>the mysterious Gulp Valve has not had any effect on its behavior. He
>>figures this is due to the "Non-Functional Attribute Law", so he decides
>>not to replace it after all.
>>
>>Three days later, the engine had no more oil in it and promptly seized
>>into a solid mass of metal. The tow truck operator, being ignorant of
>>the "Love of Hardship Law", offers to take the car off his hand for
>>$100. The owner just smiled.
>>
>>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>
>Alex Z
>'60 BN7
From Olin Brimberry <olin.brimberry.b at bayer.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "tom felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 09:35:04 -0500
Subject: Need help - Lucas #s for Headlamp Hardware
Headlight sub assembly
Bucket
Rim to bucket seal
Adapter Plug for PL or P700
Adjusting (mounting) rings
Gasket
Rim (Is there a cut-off to when the rivet was used?)
P700 Headlight (do these come with mounting hardware?) and bulb
PL700 Headlight (do these come with mounting hardware?) and bulb
European Headlight
I have seen that some lamps come with the full assembly (pigtail and mounting
hardware, etc). If there are different numbers for these, could you please
provide.
Many thanks in advance,
Olin
Raleigh, NC
from the appearance of the car, so, my drums are black! And, along the same
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "tom felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 09:44:46 EST
Subject: Re: color of BJ8 brake drums
Dick Hosmer
From "Scott Willis" <ahpowered at hotmail.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "tom felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 09:04:40 -0600
Subject: Ebay 100S answers
Cheers
Scott
Mashed 60 BN7
Dear Scott,
Please go to my web site at http://pwp.ibl.bm/~markcooke/austin/index
and click on to the image of the 100S, this should give you most of the
information you need. The car was run as a special by the Smileys , if
you look at the note at the bottom of my auction I have pointed out that
there is another 100S with the same chassis number as mine AHS3610 in
Australia , I have not seen the car or no anything about , however I do
wish to point this out . Please come back if you have further questions.
Regards Mark Cooke
From "matt wilson" <mwilson18 at cox.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "tom felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 07:56:15 -0800
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note - Abarth - ANSA- Gears Brief status
----- Original Message -----
From: "M Lempert" <mlempert@bellsouth.net>
To: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 22, 2004 6:02 PM
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note - Abarth - ANSA- Gears Brief status
> Will do !
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
> To: "M Lempert" <mlempert@bellsouth.net>
> Sent: Sunday, February 22, 2004 8:03 PM
> Subject: Re: Exhaust Note - Abarth - ANSA- Gears Brief status
>
>
> > Hey Mike-
> > Keep me posted on the Les Lestons please. Also... when you figure out
how
> > to mount one let me know. The thought of owning a nos Leston is
appealing
> > but having it sit in my office is well... anticlimactic at best.
> > Regards,
> > Matt Wilson-
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "M Lempert" <mlempert@bellsouth.net>
> > To: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
> > Sent: Sunday, February 22, 2004 1:20 PM
> > Subject: Re: Exhaust Note - Abarth - ANSA- Gears Brief status
> >
> >
> > > Matt:
> > >
> > > The first batch of wheels should be arriving soon. I'm only getting
> > > the wheels - no hubs. I am seriously considering producing some LL
> style
> > > hubs specifically for the Austin Healey. People seem to want the Les
> > Leston
> > > wheels, but I don't know how they go about mounting them. I'll have
> > > pictures posted soon.
> > >
> > > The wheels will be on the expensive side as I have a significant
> > investment
> > > in them. Walsall made some nice wheels. Depending on how much you
> value
> > > the LL name, and what style wheel you prefer, there is an
alternative
> in
> > a
> > > Lempert wheel. Never heard of one ?
> > >
> > > Let me know if you want me to keep you on a list for a Leston or if
you
> > want
> > > info on my wheels. Forgive the shameless promotion.
> > >
> > > Regards,
> > > Mike L.
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
> > > To: "M Lempert" <mlempert@bellsouth.net>
> > > Sent: Friday, February 20, 2004 10:18 PM
> > > Subject: Re: Exhaust Note - Abarth - ANSA- Gears Brief status
> > >
> > >
> > > > Hey Mike-
> > > > I am real interested in what might be able to be done for us
Roadster
> > > > owners? Obviously it's "early" in this process but damn it I am
> biased
> > > > towards getting my needs met. Hey and just so you know I didn't
> contact
> > > > Monza so we're all good there :)
> > > >
> > > > Additionally I would be interested in the Les Leston Steering Wheels
> > also.
> > > > Do you also have the non-adjustable hubs or is that a side issue?
If
> > you
> > > > have digitals of the styles I would love to seen them. I have a
Moss
> > > wheel
> > > > on the car today that I had leather wrapped but those Les Lestons
are
> > > sweet!
> > > >
> > > > Let me know Mike and thanks for your efforts!!!!
> > > > Best Regards,
> > > > Matt Wilson-
> > > > 1960 AH BT7 ROADSTER
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: "M Lempert" <mlempert@bellsouth.net>
> > > > To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > > Sent: Friday, February 20, 2004 5:36 PM
> > > > Subject: Exhaust Note - Abarth - ANSA- Gears Brief status
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > I was in contact with ANSA today and had some very good
discussion..
> > > I'll
> > > > > be following up on Monday.
> > > > >
> > > > > There is no tooling, or at least that's the understanding at the
> > > moment.
> > > > > There may be an opportunity, however, I need to have some
creative
> > > > control
> > > > > to ensure some of the things we discussed. Also, they previously
> did
> > > BJ8
> > > > > but not the roadsters.
> > > > >
> > > > > Apparently a number of other folks also made contact today. I'll
be
> > > glad
> > > > to
> > > > > pass along what I learn. My only concern is that at least one of
> the
> > > > > contacts was attempting to do the same thing as I, almost. We
are
> in
> > a
> > > > > free and very competitive market, so no one can object to
> > competition.
> > > > > That said, honestly I was a tad irritated.
> > > > >
> > > > > I hope to be able to partner with ANSA, but only to the extent
that
> > the
> > > > end
> > > > > result meets the goal - our complete satisfaction. I have a few
> > simple
> > > > > objectives that I'll hold to; at a high level, performance,
> > > > functionality,
> > > > > and cost. I don't believe a good system has to be as expensive as
> > I've
> > > > > seen. I'm committed to quality, value, and contribution to the
> Healey
> > > > > community. I'm also excited about pulling this off. I sense I
have
> > the
> > > > > support of the larger group.
> > > > >
> > > > > After all the excitement about Abarth, I ordered a couple of NOS
> > > exhaust
> > > > > systems from my local Abarth dealer. I have two systems on the
way
> to
> > > me.
> > > > > One is a NOS Abarth for the Bugeye. I'm assuming there will be a
> > market
> > > > for
> > > > > that Healey as well. Do you think ?
> > > > >
> > > > > Other exciting news..... The new gear order is in process,
> > finally.
> > > I
> > > > > didn't get the 100 I needed, but enough have committed that I
feel
> > > > > comfortable going forward. I'll need to fund the difference, so
> the
> > > > price
> > > > > will be going up for any new orders. I'll honor the old price of
> $275
> > > > until
> > > > > the end of February in hopes of flushing out the last minute
crowd.
> > > > >
> > > > > Finally, for those that might be interested, I've stumbled upon
a
> > > stash
> > > > of
> > > > > NOS Les Leston steering wheels of various designs. I've purchased
> > them
> > > > all
> > > > > (forgot how many, quite a few) and am awaiting delivery.
> > > > >
> > > > > That's all for now.
> > > > >
> > > > > Mike L.
From HealeyBN7 at aol.com
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "tom felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 17:12:22 EST
Subject: Fender advise sought
Dave
From LarryRPH at aol.com
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "tom felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 17:18:28 EST
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note - Abarth - ANSA- Gears Brief status
I have Stebro side exhaust pipes on my BN 6. I bought them "used" from a
person who took them off his Healey because they were too loud for him. I find
them to be very loud but love the sound! - nothing like it! I have thought
of
using ear plugs but that would block that beautiful sound. I suffer the
loudness in order to enjoy that sound. On long trips, my normal hearing goes
by
noon and will not return ubtil the next morning
They are quite old and I don't think they are available any more. I also
heard they were quite expensive when new.
Larry Wysocki
BN 6
BJ 7
> Hey Mike-
> Just thought I would pass along that also seen in 1960's era Road and Track
> magazines are advertisements for Stebro Exhausts. They still have a website
> but don't immediately list Healeys as cars they fit (today anyways). They
> have a short list of cars they do fit but their website is a little weak
> for content. However this is an old company and their website link is
> below. You may want to check into them as well? Not sure if anyone on the
> list has used a Stebro exhaust.
> http://www.stebro.net/stwc.htm
> Regards,
> Matt Wilson-
> 1960 AH 3000 BT7
From David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "tom felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 14:13:14 -0800
Subject: Re: Muffler sound off
> List
> I was just talking with Steve Gerow on the phone and this muffler thread
> came up. We talked about getting various examples of cars with different
> exhaust systems together for a sound off at the Tahoe gathering. It could be
> an event at the slalom / speed location. Maybe a peoples choice type judging
> with categories like , stationary, at idle ,1500 rpm , 2500 rpm ,
> accelerating, decelerating, 30 mph drive by, 60 mph drive by, and/or ???
> We could do a Db reading at each stage and in the car at 30 and 60 to give a
> sense of driver seat conditions. There could be judging forms with first ,
> second , third and fourth in each category and a space for comments. The
> collated results and comments would make a good article for the magazine.
> What do the rest of you think I'm just throwing this out here to see what
> it stirs up. It could be fun as well as educational for spectators and
> participants alike.
> Healey on!
> Ray Juncal
> Toot toot!
All these ideas are great . So who is going to organize it and get all the
equipment and awards.
--
--
David Nock
Golden Gate AH club Pres.
Healey Rendzvous 04 committee
From "Bob, Kim, Rob, Bandit and Pepper" <thewalkers at qwest.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "tom felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 15:26:16 -0700
Subject: Re: craters and freighters
Also, again, Mr. Everest Smith came through at Vintage Automotive
Engineering for me on a body repair panel for a big healed. See
www.vintageautomotive.com (I still can't make a hyper link - cut and
paste). This is one damn good place to get parts from.
No interest blah de blah...just trying to get some positve energy out.
Bob Walker
From "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyingb at surewest.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "tom felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 15:47:18 -0800
Subject: Headers from Kirk Racing-Need trial car
Jerry
No financial interest but I had an order in that is on hold till they reshape
the molds or whatever they use to make the headers.
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "tom felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 19:36:26 EST
Subject: Re: Looking for a BJ8
I received about a dozen direct replies. All from generous people willing to
help a new comer join this Healey Fraternity of ours. Most of the cars were
not advertised for sale but were available through a club or personal
connection. Nobody was seeking a sales commission, all just selflessly offering
to help
someone new to experience Healey ownership and assist in finding a good car a
good home.
To those who responded many thanks. All have been forwarded to Adam and he is
contacting the owners.
One of the things I have enjoyed about most Healey owners over the years is
the lack of pretension. Most are always willing to lend a hand and welcome new
participants to this hobby of ours.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "tom felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 18:36:40 -0600
Subject: Cleaning Age spots on Healey prints
Since this is not a mechanical Healey question, please answer off list.
Thanks
Patton
-------------------------------------
Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
1957 Austin-Healey BN4
Website http://www.austin-healeys.com/
For Sale - 1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "tom felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 19:38:38 EST
Subject: Re: Looking for a BJ8
I received about a dozen direct replies. All from generous people willing to
help a new comer join this Healey Fraternity of ours. Most of the cars were
not advertised for sale but were available through a club or personal
connection. Nobody was seeking a sales commission, all just selflessly offering
to help
someone new to experience Healey ownership and assist in finding a good car a
good home.
To those who responded many thanks. All have been forwarded to Adam and he is
contacting the owners.
One of the things I have enjoyed about most Healey owners over the years is
the lack of pretension. Most are always willing to lend a hand and welcome new
participants to this hobby of ours.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "tom felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 18:58:58 -0600
Subject: Why M****
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
From <satkinson at attglobal.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "tom felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 20:37:45 -0500
Subject: Car/Engine #'s
Here's what I have...
ID# HBT7L-181 (BT7)
Body Id# 3012 BT7L 152
Engine ID# 26D/H73068 (Indicates it is from a 100/6 BN6)
The heritage center (received my certificate today) says that the correct
engine is 29D-H-239 (3000 mk I).
The car is a 4 seater, with front disc brakes but every emblem on the car says
"100/6" - EVERY emblem!
Do you think the engine was replaced at some time during the years? The car
does show 86,000 miles.
The BMHT show that the Body/Chassis number match and that it is a 4 seater.
Should I assume that the engine was replaced and then later the emblems since
someone thought it was a 100/6 and not a 3000?
Thanks for the help,
Simon
From jbpate at attglobal.net
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "tom felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 20:38:08 -0500
Subject: SU fuel pump and float settings
Also the BMC manual was confusing about float settings. For the HD8
carb's is it 5/16 or 7/16 th? The book sent me all over the place and it
never was clear which setting was correct for the HD8. Barry Pate 1967 BJ8
From "David" <dcrawfor at san.rr.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "tom felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 06:51:34 -0800
Subject: Re: Why M****
I'm laughing...because there are usually so many misspellings in these
messages I just attributed that Moss thing to careless typing.
(Now I'm looking for mistakes in mine!)
David C
'54 BN1
San Diego
----- Original Message -----
From: Greg Lemon
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, February 23, 2004 4:58 PM
Subject: Why M****
Sorry to bomb the list with this but I keep seeing everybody write down
Moss
as as M*ss or M$$$ or whatever, why not just Moss? My understanding if you
are writing about a company or individual there is no liability for libel
if
what you say is true or if an opinion it is expressed as such. Did they
threaten to sue someone for using their name in a way they didn't like or
something? Just curious.
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "tom felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 18:52:34 -0800
Subject: Odd Request....
Ps. Seriously they would love a Healey ride in the warm sun, they love going
out with me whenever they can. Let me know....
From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "tom felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 21:55:14 EST
Subject: Re: Why M****
Rick
San Diego
In a message dated 2/23/04 6:53:42 PM, dcrawfor@san.rr.com writes:
> Greg,
>
> I'm laughing...because there are usually so many misspellings in these
> messages I just attributed that Moss thing to careless typing.
>
> (Now I'm looking for mistakes in mine!)
>
> David C
> '54 BN1
> San Diego
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: <satkinson@attglobal.net>
To: "Austin Healey Global" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 21:56:25 -0500
Subject: Car/Engine #'s
> Hi all....
> I'm sure many of you have researched your cars thru the Heritage Centre...
>
> Here's what I have...
>
> ID# HBT7L-181 (BT7)
> Body Id# 3012 BT7L 152
> Engine ID# 26D/H73068 (Indicates it is from a 100/6 BN6)
>
> The heritage center (received my certificate today) says that the correct
> engine is 29D-H-239 (3000 mk I).
>
> The car is a 4 seater, with front disc brakes but every emblem on the car
says
> "100/6" - EVERY emblem!
>
> Do you think the engine was replaced at some time during the years? The
car
> does show 86,000 miles.
>
> The BMHT show that the Body/Chassis number match and that it is a 4
seater.
> Should I assume that the engine was replaced and then later the emblems
since
> someone thought it was a 100/6 and not a 3000?
>
> Thanks for the help,
>
>
> Simon
From Douglas W Flagg <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: <satkinson@attglobal.net>
To: "Austin Healey Global" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 21:56:14 -0500
Subject: Re: Florence Dotson
> Everyone:
>
> I received the following via e-mail from the Virginia Jaguar Club.
> For those who may not personally know Ed and Florence, they are
> members of SVBCC although they live in Norfolk. They have been long
> time supporters of our car show and our Club. We celebrated their
> 50th Wedding Anniversary at our car show banquet a couple years ago,
> as it coincided with our show weekend.
>
> Just today, I sent a get well card on behalf of the Club. If anyone
> wants to send a sympathy card, their address is 6342 Sedgefield Dr.,
> Norfolk, VA 23513.
>
> Florence Dotson passed away on Sat. Feb. 21. A Wake will be held on
> Friday Feb. 27th at Woodlawn Memorial Gardens Chapel, 6329 Virginia
> Beach Blvd., NORFOLK from 7-9 PM. Burial service will be at the same
> address at !:00 on Sat. the 28th.
________________________________________________________________
The best thing to hit the Internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the Web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 22:04:26 -0500
Subject: SU fuel pump and float settings
> I went for a ride in my 1967 BJ8 yesterday after a 5+ year restoration.
> Lots of fun until the "new" fuel pump would quit on me once it had to
> pump more than just idle. The car will idle forever it seems but just
> romp it for a few 1000 rpms and the pump wants to shut off. It seemed to
> come back to life after sitting about 5 minutes. I took a look at the
> points and they were slightly pitted. Readjusted and filed, still had
> the problem. It seems to be thermal. Anyone else had this problem. What
> about the new all electonic SU pumps?
From busyrider at springmail.com
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 22:09:19 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Subject: Re: Why M****
Over on the Spridget list someone suggested a modification of the classic
bumper sticker that we all know and love to :
"Parts falling off this car are of the finest Taiwanese manufacture"
Fred Criswell
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 22:39:24 -0500
Subject: Re: Odd Request....
Please think about what your asking.
Sorry, this disturbed me,
My daughter is MY favorite co-pilot and I want to keep it that way.
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg@telus.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, February 23, 2004 9:52 PM
Subject: Odd Request....
> My two daughters and a friend will be traveling to Los Angeles for a
week,
> leaving tonite. They will be going to watch some horsey stuff at Indio and
> will also be spending a few days on the beaches around L.A. One daughter
was
> very interested in a ride in a Healey in the warm sunshine, unlike here in
> Vancouver B.C. I said I might be able to help them out with that
> request.....thus this request....any takers. Just for a Healey ride boys!
> Hmmmm Ron your name came to mind ;) .....Neil 61BT7 (they wouldn't even
> mind if it was a BJ8 ;) hahahha
>
> Ps. Seriously they would love a Healey ride in the warm sun, they love
going
> out with me whenever they can. Let me know....
From jbpate at attglobal.net
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 22:41:34 -0500
Subject: Doug Reid/18G Motorworks
From Dave Carpenter <d.carpenter7 at verizon.net>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 23:10:32 -0500
Subject: Re: Exhaust Note - Abarth - ANSA- Gears Brief status
Dave
>Not sure if anyone on the
>list has used a Stebro exhaust.
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 22:15:23 -0700
Subject: Re: Why M****
busyrider@springmail.com wrote:
> Some people, including myself, have a problem uttering the name.
>
> Over on the Spridget list someone suggested a modification of the classic
>bumper sticker that we all know and love to :
>
> "Parts falling off this car are of the finest Taiwanese manufacture"
>
> Fred Criswell
From "F. Ronald Rader" <rader at interworld.net>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 21:33:16 -0800
Subject: Re: Odd Request....
At 06:52 PM 2/23/2004, Neil Trelenberg wrote:
> My two daughters and a friend will be traveling to Los Angeles for a week,
>leaving tonite. They will be going to watch some horsey stuff at Indio and
>will also be spending a few days on the beaches around L.A. One daughter was
>very interested in a ride in a Healey in the warm sunshine, unlike here in
>Vancouver B.C. I said I might be able to help them out with that
>request.....thus this request....any takers. Just for a Healey ride boys!
>Hmmmm Ron your name came to mind ;) .....Neil 61BT7 (they wouldn't even
>mind if it was a BJ8 ;) hahahha
>
>Ps. Seriously they would love a Healey ride in the warm sun, they love going
>out with me whenever they can. Let me know....
From "F. Ronald Rader" <rader at interworld.net>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 21:47:40 -0800
Subject: Re: Odd Request....
the weather guru says scattered rain through Thursday. it may not be that
in Indio.
have them call me. My Healey is at Absolutely British and due to arrive
back in LA on Friday assuming no change in the weather.
Indio: http://www.weather.com/weather/local/USCA0512?from=search_city
probably wont rain until Thursday.
How am I going to explain this to SWMBO? :)
Ron
At 06:52 PM 2/23/2004, Neil Trelenberg wrote:
> My two daughters and a friend will be traveling to Los Angeles for a week,
>leaving tonite. They will be going to watch some horsey stuff at Indio and
>will also be spending a few days on the beaches around L.A. One daughter was
>very interested in a ride in a Healey in the warm sunshine, unlike here in
>Vancouver B.C. I said I might be able to help them out with that
>request.....thus this request....any takers. Just for a Healey ride boys!
>Hmmmm Ron your name came to mind ;) .....Neil 61BT7 (they wouldn't even
>mind if it was a BJ8 ;)
>Ps. Seriously they would love a Healey ride in the warm sun, they love going
>out with me whenever they can. Let me know....
From michael e gougeon <kaynmike.bham at juno.com>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 20:57:02 -0800
Subject: 4HOURS LABOR, etc
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at sbcglobal.net>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 22:09:50 -0800
Subject: Re: Why M****
::Whaat??
::No Moss Motors defenders?
Yeah, I'll defend them. They're the first place I look for Healey
parts because they can be on my doorstep in less than 24 hours, and
most of the time they are of adequate quality (some times excellent,
and a few times not so). Nobody's perfect. That's why I have my list
of favorite alternative sources, too.
-Roland
From Pat & Gary Rice <patgaryrice at earthlink.net>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 22:04:54 -0800
Subject: RE; M*** motors
From "Len and/or Marge" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 22:37:33 -0800
Subject: FW: oh no, not again...
I am forwarding the bulk of a message that was sent to members of the
United British Sports Car Club of Sacramento. It appears to have
originated at SEMA.
Assemblywoman Sally Lieber has introduced AB2683, a bill that would change
the exemption for SMOG checks from all vehicles manufactured prior to 1974
to those manufactured prior to 1976. However, it deletes the rolling
exemption for vehicles 30 or more model years old.
Vehicles that are exempted from SMOG check are still subject to remote
sensing or other means that indicates that there is a probability the
vehicle would fail a SMOG check Also, they can be selected for out of
cycle testing. The last time I brought up this subject there was comment
that these checks meant nothing since the BAR charts did not contain
standards for our cars. I would remind you that the chart starts with 1967
and there are a few '67 BJ8s out there. And, how long do you think it
would take them to come up with some arbitrary figures for any and all
cars? Even though these procedures have not be exercised to the best of my
knowledge, they are in the law and could be enforced at any time by some
politician seeking the support of environmentalists (Assemblywoman
Lieber????).
You can read the bill by going to http://leginfo.ca.gov/bilinfo.html.
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA
1967 3000 MKIII HBJ8L39031
> Subject: oh no, not again...
>
> Fellow Members...here is a bandwagon worth Jumping On...forward
> this to your Legislature, remember the last time we had to get
> Jay Leno on their case...
>
>
>
> > URGENT LEGISLATIVE ALERT
> > Legislation to Repeal Old Car Emissions Exemption Reintroduced
> > in California State Assembly
> >
> > Here we go again! As predicted, legislation has been
reintroduced
> > in the California Assembly to repeal the state's current rolling
emissions
> > test exemption for vehicles 30 years old and older. A.B. 2683 repeals
the
> > current pro-hobbyist exemption and replaces it with a provision
requiring
> > the permanent testing of all pre-1976 vehicles. This year, the bill
was
> > introduced by California State Assemblywoman Sally Lieber (D-District
22).
> >
> > We Urge You to Contact Assemblywoman Lieber and Your Own State Assembly
> > Member Immediately to Oppose A.B. 2683
> > * Existing law in California exempts all vehicles 30-years old and
older
> > from emissions testing.
> > *
> > * California's current emissions testing exemption recognizes the
minimal
> > impact of vehicles 30-years old and older on vehicle emissions and air
> > quality.
> > *
> > * Vehicles 30-years old and older constitute a small portion of the
overall
> > vehicle population and are a poor source from which to look for
emissions
> > reduction.
> > *
> > * Antique and classic vehicles are overwhelmingly well-maintained and
> > infrequently driven (about one-third the miles each year as a new
vehicle).
> > *
> > * Legislators and regulators are feeling the heat from a failed effort
to
> > meet air quality goals and are looking for a convenient scapegoat.
The old
> > car hobby should not carry the burden of their mistakes!
> >
> > Contact your State Assembly Member to oppose A.B. 2683. Assemblywoman
> > Lieber can be reached by e-mail at
Assemblywoman.Lieber@assembly.ca.gov To
> > find out who your own State Assembly Member is, contact the California
> > Assembly's general information line at 916/445-4311. This information
can
> > also be accessed via the Internet at
> > http://www.enjoythedrive.com/legislative/contact_legislator.asp or by
> > calling the SEMA Washington, DC office at 202-783-6007, ext. 38.
Please
> > e-mail a copy of your letters to us at stevem@sema.org or fax to
> > 202/783-6024 or mail to:
> >
> > SEMA Washington Office
> > 1317 F St., NW, Ste. 500
> > Washington, D.C. 20004
From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 06:58:56 EST
Subject: Re: Why M****
> ::Whaat??
> ::No Moss Motors defenders?
>
> Yeah, I'll defend them. They're the first place I look for Healey
> parts because they can be on my doorstep in less than 24 hours, and
> most of the time they are of adequate quality (some times excellent,
> and a few times not so). Nobody's perfect. That's why I have my list
> of favorite alternative sources, too.
>
> -Roland
>
hi,
I suspect that we have more "Big Name" suppliers over here in UK...or more
suppliers to be found within a couple of hours driving/next day postage
delivery.
So, with that wider field, I'd just observe that Moss - I can say Voldemort
too - is usually fairly low on the alternative sources list here. It has a
competent parts list/brochure, but not as good as say SC. And it has no "ring
up
for help & advice or come round and have a coffee" like, say, Moss. I've
vought, it seems about two Healeys so far as Imess around with my one BT7 and
nary a
bit from Moss.
To be fair, I've never heard of them doing anything drastically wrong - just
never heard of them doing anything!
Simon.
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 07:25:57 -0500
Subject: Re: M****motors
Moss has been a HUGE supporter of our hobby for the thirty years that
I've been doing this. Some parts good, some not so good, some terrible.
But their attempt to work with the LBC community to strive to improve what
they carry has been a very positive step in the right direction. Also their
publications have greatly added to my car knowledge with the wealth of
information that they provide.
I could do without the expense of "returned item shipping " but in many
cases they have absorbed that in my favor also. In my experiences they
have been much more accommodating than any other supplier and getting even
more so as time goes on.
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pat & Gary Rice" <patgaryrice@earthlink.net>
To: "Austin Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2004 1:04 AM
Subject: RE; M*** motors
> Dave & Marlene,
> I'm with you on Moss motors. My 61 HBT7L was almost totally rebuilt
> with Moss parts. If they weren't in business, my restoration would have
> been much more difficult. I lived in Peoria, Il when restoration began
and
> I now live in Ventura, Ca, about 30 miles away from Moss. Several members
> of the Central Coast British Car Club have close ties to Moss. I had a
> right rear shock from Moss that leaked, and they replaced it no charge. A
> new top from Moss wasn't stitched right on one side, didn't fit well,
they
> replaced it no charge. Replacement fits fine. I'm sure somebody will
> always find fault with any supplier, but I feel as though I've always
been
> treated fairly by Moss. Happy Healeying
> Gary Rice
> 61 HBT7L
> Ventura, ca
From Warthodson at aol.com
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 08:05:19 EST
Subject: cadmium plating parts
From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 07:13:31 -0600
Subject: Re: Why M****
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
From Joseph Smathers <healey27 at mindspring.com>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 09:14:03 -0500
Subject: Re: Why M****
Best regards, Joe
1960 3000
1955 100
At 07:58 PM 2/23/2004, you wrote:
>Sorry to bomb the list with this but I keep seeing everybody write down Moss
>as as M*ss or M$$$ or whatever, why not just Moss? My understanding if you
>are writing about a company or individual there is no liability for libel if
>what you say is true or if an opinion it is expressed as such. Did they
>threaten to sue someone for using their name in a way they didn't like or
>something? Just curious.
>
>Greg Lemon
>54 BN1
From "Vink, Graham" <vinkg at fleishman.com>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 08:20:25 -0600
Subject: RE: Why M**** - a good experience
An spin-on oil filter adapter that I had bought from them for my BJ7
almost 10 years ago broke while I was driving (fortunately, there
appears to have been no bearing damage, since I noticed the oil pressure
disappearing). In addition, an aftermarket tropical-style fan that I
bought from them MANY years ago threw a blade about five years ago while
I was driving across the country, causing some related damage, including
frying the water pump.
Moss had originally recalled the fan (of Asian manufacture) because of
this problem.
Even though I had no receipt for the fan, and even though my problem
occurred at least five years ago, Moss gave me a credit for both the fan
and the filter adapter - plus they tossed in a new K&N oil filter for my
new adapter.
Also, re parts quality, the new adapter has been re-engineered and is
MUCH simpler and less likely to break than the old one.
I think all of us have problems from time to time with variable parts
quality, but I think many of the quality suppliers, including Moss, do
their best and stand behind what they sell. Another example is The
Roadster Factory, primarily MG and Triumph (not Healey), with which I
have had many positive experiences regarding parts issues.
-Graham
From Jay Fishbein <type79 at ix.netcom.com>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 10:08:11 -0500
Subject: Re: Why M****
They ARE adequate for getting certain garden variety mechanical parts
delivered quickly. With that said, my own personal experience with Moss
is not the best. They have sold me unusable substandard Chinese
reproduction electrical parts without stating that was the source as
well as other unacceptable reproduction parts.
Are they helping to keep cars on the road? I'll concede that they are
for the sake of discussion, but they are not an advocate of the
manufacture of quality reproduction parts. Dozens, or hundreds, of
consumers should not have to be the guinea pigs for their repro parts
runs. They should have some level of quality control. Of course the flip
side of this situation is that most owners don't want to pay a penny
more for quality parts.
But the worst experience I had with them was a "rebuilt" tranny that
wouldn't stay in gear. They didn't make good on the tranny and couldn't
even tell me where to source replacement parts so I could rebuild it
myself. (I needed assistance sourcing the gears because the parts used
were for a different vehicle.)
IMO, they are the Home Depot/Lowes of the car hobby.
jay fishbein
wallingford, ct
http://home.ix.netcom.com/~type79/ <http://home.ix.netcom.com/%7Etype79/>
Joseph Smathers wrote:
> Must agree that Moss does a pretty good job.
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 08:50:55 -0800
Subject: Re: cadmium plating parts
John Snyder
> I am having trouble getting a good job of cadmium plating on the hardware
> (bolts, nuts, etc.) for my Healey. The parts look good when I bring them
home,
> but after a few months they develop black spots all over them. It
resembles the
> tarnish that develops on silver. I have had them replated three times with
the
> same results. Has anyone had similar experience & does any one know what
the problem is? I am considering sending them out to Burbank Plating in
Pacoima,
> CA. Has anyone had any experience with them?
> Thanks,
> Gary Hodson
> Kansas City
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 11:51:58 EST
Subject: Re: Why M****
> Whaat??No Moss Motors defenders
>
I'm a Moss fan, generally speaking. Yes, some of their parts are less than
perfect or correct and if that is what someone wants and is willing to pay for
then they should learn of and patronize appropriate resources. But in the
majority of cases Moss' parts are fine for me.
Then too, they are a wonderful resource if one is on the road and/or needs a
part in a hurry, and they, along with VB and the like, make keeping our cars
on the road and in reliable condition a lot easier than must have been the case
10-15 years ago. My experience with their warranty department has been good
and they stood behind their defective kingpins and absorbed a good portion of
the labor costs. Also, they were liberal supporters of Conclave 2003 and, I
must assume, many other like events.
All tolled, I think that Moss and VB are definite assets.
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
From John Peak <redbn7 at yahoo.com>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 08:53:28 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Car/Engine #'s
My Austin-Healey 100/6 BN7
By John Peak
I own a very rare Austin Healey. It's a 1959 100/6 BN7. Now I know the model
3000 is considered to have begun with production of the BN7 and BT7, but I can
assure you that this BN7 is indeed a 100/6. The car has a very low chassis
number indicating it was built early in BN7 production. While the body number,
chassis number and engine number all identify it as a BN7, the badges on the
grille and horn button say 100/6. In addition, there are no holes in the trunk
lid for the 3000 badge that is supposed to go there.
This is not the result of incorrect parts from donor cars. I purchased the car
from the son of the original owner and it shows no evidence of ever having been
apart. The son indicated that the car always had the 100/6 badges. I have
spoken with several other Healey owners who also have early BN7's with 100/6
badges, so my car in not unique. If the 3000 model designation began with BN7
and BT7 production, why is this so?
The conventional wisdom seems to be that during production they just used up
the stock of bodies (including badges) that were left over from 100/6
production on the early 3000's. While possible, I have a hard time accepting
this explanation. The effort and expense required to change the badges on
these cars during final assembly at Abingdon is so small that it just doesn't
make sense that they would allow cars to be shipped out with incorrect badges.
Also, the body tag on my car (The one with the body and batch number) is
stamped BN7 and was installed prior to paint, which surely preceded badge
installation. So they did not simply use up left over 100/6 bodies on the new
model. Although I have done absolutely no research into this, I have another
theory.
I believe the early 3000's were intended simply to be the next 100/6, and the
decision to change the model designation came after some cars were already in
the distribution pipeline. The differences between the late 100/6 and early
3000 are so small (larger displacement engine and front disc brakes) that I do
not believe the BN7 and BT7 were originally intended as an entirely new model.
Rather I suspect that the marketing folks were still trying to overcome the
effects of the bad press the 100/6 received when it was first introduced with
less performance than its predecessor, and decided at the last minute to change
the name. Hence the new model designation of 3000. It is also possible that
the 3000 badges werent ready in time to be installed on the earliest cars, but
that just ads further support to the theory that the decision to change the
model designation came very late in the game.
Regardless of the reason for the badges, my BN7 rolled off the assembly line as
a 100/6. I had considered installing 3000 badges but decided against it. The
car will remain as it always has been, a 100/6 BN7.
satkinson@attglobal.net wrote:
Hi all....
I'm sure many of you have researched your cars thru the Heritage Centre...
Here's what I have...
ID# HBT7L-181 (BT7)
Body Id# 3012 BT7L 152
Engine ID# 26D/H73068 (Indicates it is from a 100/6 BN6)
The heritage center (received my certificate today) says that the correct
engine is 29D-H-239 (3000 mk I).
The car is a 4 seater, with front disc brakes but every emblem on the car says
"100/6" - EVERY emblem!
Do you think the engine was replaced at some time during the years? The car
does show 86,000 miles.
The BMHT show that the Body/Chassis number match and that it is a 4 seater.
Should I assume that the engine was replaced and then later the emblems since
someone thought it was a 100/6 and not a 3000?
Thanks for the help,
Simon
---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail SpamGuard - Read only the mail you want.
From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 12:41:09 -0500
Subject: Re: Why M****
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <rusd@velocitus.net>; <busyrider@springmail.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2004 11:51 AM
Subject: Re: Why M****
| In a message dated 2/24/04 12:17:13 AM Eastern Standard Time,
| rusd@velocitus.net writes:
|
| > Whaat??No Moss Motors defenders
| >
| I'm a Moss fan, generally speaking. Yes, some of their parts are less
than
| perfect or correct and if that is what someone wants and is willing to pay
for
| then they should learn of and patronize appropriate resources. But in the
| majority of cases Moss' parts are fine for me.
| Then too, they are a wonderful resource if one is on the road and/or needs
a
| part in a hurry, and they, along with VB and the like, make keeping our
cars
| on the road and in reliable condition a lot easier than must have been the
case
| 10-15 years ago. My experience with their warranty department has been
good
| and they stood behind their defective kingpins and absorbed a good portion
of
| the labor costs. Also, they were liberal supporters of Conclave 2003 and,
I
| must assume, many other like events.
|
| All tolled, I think that Moss and VB are definite assets.
|
| Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
|
|
From Slvrbulit2 at aol.com
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 13:33:18 EST
Subject: Restoration shop
From Alan Bromfield <Alan.Bromfield at ntl.com>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 15:36:54 -0000
Subject: RE: cadmium plating parts
Alan Bromfield
http://www.nfahc.co.uk
-----Original Message-----
From: Warthodson@aol.com [mailto:Warthodson@aol.com]
Sent: 24 February 2004 13:05
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: cadmium plating parts
I am having trouble getting a good job of cadmium plating on the hardware
(bolts, nuts, etc.) for my Healey. The parts look good when I bring them
home,
but after a few months they develop black spots all over them. It resembles
the
tarnish that develops on silver. I have had them replated three times with
the
same results. Has anyone had similar experience & does any one know what the
problem is? I am considering sending them out to Burbank Plating in Pacoima,
CA. Has anyone had any experience with them?
Thanks,
Gary Hodson
Kansas City
The contents of this email and any attachments are sent for the personal
attention
of the addressee(s) only and may be confidential. If you are not the intended
addressee, any use, disclosure or copying of this email and any attachments is
unauthorised - please notify the sender by return and delete the message. Any
representations or commitments expressed in this email are subject to contract.
ntl Group Limited
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 11:03:24 -0800
Subject: Clutch line Component
Terry Blubaugh
2 - ''60BT7's
From Jay Fishbein <type79 at ix.netcom.com>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 17:17:18 -0500
Subject: Re: Restoration shop
jay fishbein
wallingford, ct
http://home.ix.netcom.com/~type79/ <http://home.ix.netcom.com/%7Etype79/>
Slvrbulit2@aol.com wrote:
>Does anyone know of a restoration shop near Albany, NY or within a few hours
>drive?
From Warthodson at aol.com
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 18:39:12 EST
Subject: Re: cadmium plating parts
From "John Rued" <rudedoggg at earthlink.net>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 18:50:51 -0600
Subject: Re: Why M****
JR
53 BN-1
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jay Fishbein" <type79@ix.netcom.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2004 9:08 AM
Subject: Re: Why M****
> This thread has the potential to elicit hundreds of positive responses.
> If that weren't the case, they wouldn't be in business.
>
> They ARE adequate for getting certain garden variety mechanical parts
> delivered quickly. With that said, my own personal experience with Moss
> is not the best. They have sold me unusable substandard Chinese
> reproduction electrical parts without stating that was the source as
> well as other unacceptable reproduction parts.
>
> Are they helping to keep cars on the road? I'll concede that they are
> for the sake of discussion, but they are not an advocate of the
> manufacture of quality reproduction parts. Dozens, or hundreds, of
> consumers should not have to be the guinea pigs for their repro parts
> runs. They should have some level of quality control. Of course the flip
> side of this situation is that most owners don't want to pay a penny
> more for quality parts.
>
> But the worst experience I had with them was a "rebuilt" tranny that
> wouldn't stay in gear. They didn't make good on the tranny and couldn't
> even tell me where to source replacement parts so I could rebuild it
> myself. (I needed assistance sourcing the gears because the parts used
> were for a different vehicle.)
>
> IMO, they are the Home Depot/Lowes of the car hobby.
>
> jay fishbein
> wallingford, ct
> http://home.ix.netcom.com/~type79/ <http://home.ix.netcom.com/%7Etype79/>
>
>
> Joseph Smathers wrote:
>
> > Must agree that Moss does a pretty good job.
From "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid at hotmail.com>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 04:33:05 +0000
Subject: Re: Why M****
Hear, hear. Bravo.
Reid Trummel
Portland, Oregon
100, 100M, Bugeye, Ski-Master
_________________________________________________________________
From GSFuqua1 at aol.com
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 23:58:34 EST
Subject: 1275 Crank Pulley Needed
Thank you & Motor On,
Gary Fuqua
Branson, Missouri
From "Ron Fine Esq." <ronfineesq at earthlink.net>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 21:41:31 -0800
Subject: What grade bolts to use
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 23:46:49 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: What grade bolts to use
In general using grade 8 or grade 5 bolts should be
better and safer for the car in most respects. They
tend to corrode less and carry less chance of failure.
They will be easier to unbolt 20 years down the line
vs. a standard bolt and nut.
The flip side of this is the corrosion resistance of
these bolts (particularly grade 8) may pass some of
the galvanic corrosiveness to the body, particularly
with aluminum parts. For example... you should use
aluminum rivets when riveting the shrouds to the
body... they run less chance of wearing out the
aluminum shroud over time - and the rivets will take
some of the corrosion rather than passing it all to
the shroud.
The other issue to consider is Grade 8s bolts can
strip out low quality steel body nuts... so if this is
a concern softer bolts are suggested.
As a general rule though, Grade 8 is the way to go.
It is also important that you buy the grade 8 bolts
from a trusted supplier or direct from the
manufacturer. There is alot of crap chinese stuff
running around the world these days and going to Pep
Boys you might end up with a cheap-ass bolt in "Grade
8 clothing," so to speak.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- "Ron Fine Esq." <ronfineesq@earthlink.net> wrote:
> A question for the engineers: Is there any reason
> not to use a grade 8 bolt
> instead of a weaker bolt in any Healey application?
> I need to replace some
> original bolts in my pending engine rebuild. The
> added expense of a few cents
> more for a grade 8 bolt is meaningless at this time.
> The bolts will not be
> showing so there is no issue of originality and I
> don't intend to show the car
> so why should I not use a stronger bolt?
> Thanks,
> Ron
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 19:58:29 +1100
Subject: Re: What grade bolts to use
I'm not an engineer - but as long as the "metal" you are using the fastener
to attach is capable of taking the torque required to tighten the fastener -
you can use any fastener you like, and the old saying of using the best - if
cost isn't a consideration - applies generally.
But - just remember - a grade 8 fastener needs more torque than a grade 5,
which requires more torque than a mild steel bolt. Nealey twice the torque
in some cases. So if you were e.g. bolting two pieces of soft aluminium
sheeting together - it is highly likely that the grade 8 bolts - corrrectly
torqued as per their spec - would deform/squash/destroy the aluminium
sheeting. Apart from cost - this is the simple reason why bolts/ fasteners
come in all different sizes/ diameters and materials..... So go careful
before you put grade 8 'everywhere'.
Some specs & a calculator on torque relating to diameter/ material etc are
here:
http://www.fastenal.com/resources/online_calculators/torque/torque.asp
and more info & discussion (chart) is here:
http://www.rockcrawler.com/techreports/fasteners/index.asp
In terms of the bolts which 'should' be replaced by grade 8 in a 6 cyl
healey are the conrod bolts - but there is no easy cheap hardware shop grade
8 replacement to the 6 cyl conrod bolt with its 'peg' head - its a big cost
item in a rebuild to put in 12 'new' high tensile, specialist conrod bolts.
Whereas - on eg a 948cc Sprite engine - garden variety grade 8 cap head
bolts are a simple cheap solution from the local hardware store; or you can
just get off the shelf ARP conrod bolts for A series.
You can get higher tensile head studs/ heat treated washers/ head stud nuts
etc at Denis Welch (and probably other places)
http://www.bighealey.co.uk/new%20healey/healey02/Healey%206%20cyl%20engine%20top%20end%201.htm
as many head studs/ rocker post studs have been overtightened & stretched
over the last 40 odd years... Also worth checking for 'mushrooming' around
the studs, where overtightening may have occured.
There are also off the shelf, high tensile flywheel to crankshaft bolts -
cranshaft to flywheel bolts have a much larger head area than 'standard'
bolts. Here in Australia - red holden motor (in USA - try a late 1960s GM 6
cylinder equivelent engine) - which are quite easily obtained over the
counter - are a perfect fit on a 6 cyl healey and pretty cheap. And you can
use garden variety grade 8 cap head bolts for clutch to flywheel.
Then all you need is the appropriate allen key type socket (for the cap head
bolts) in order to torque them up.
Off the top of my head - they would be the main items to replace with high
tensile - but only if you are going to torque them correctly.
Oh - and don't cad plate grade 8 fasteners. If you want to plate them, so
they are nice & shiny & won't rust - get them electroless nickel plated, and
get the plater to bake them to prevent hydrogen embrittlement.
Hope this helps
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Fine Esq." <ronfineesq@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2004 4:41 PM
Subject: What grade bolts to use
> A question for the engineers: Is there any reason not to use a grade 8
bolt
> instead of a weaker bolt in any Healey application? I need to replace
some
> original bolts in my pending engine rebuild. The added expense of a few
cents
> more for a grade 8 bolt is meaningless at this time. The bolts will not
be
> showing so there is no issue of originality and I don't intend to show the
car
> so why should I not use a stronger bolt?
> Thanks,
> Ron
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 07:44:05 -0500
Subject: Re: What grade bolts to use
Mark
> Oh - and don't cad plate grade 8 fasteners. If you want to plate them, so
> they are nice & shiny & won't rust - get them electroless nickel plated,
and
> get the plater to bake them to prevent hydrogen embrittlement.
From Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 04:49:05 -0800
Subject: Re: SU fuel pump and float settings
I am all for the facet pumps. I have one and it works great on my
positive ground car. Installation is very simple only 4 connections 2
for power one input and one output for fuel. I also know that I can
get one at nearly any Napa store in the country for 35$ which is good
since I plan some long trips
this summer (once I get it off the jack stands) .. Only one caveat, on
facet/napa look-alikes be sure that the negative wire is not hardwired
internally to the body of the pump for positive ground applications by
ohming it out with a continuity (ohmmmeter). :-)
BTW my spare facet pump has the same "feature" as a SU in that if it
stops I can just mash it with a blunt object to get it going, what the
hey its the spare.
Cheers
Tracy
jbpate@attglobal.net wrote:
> I went for a ride in my 1967 BJ8 yesterday after a 5+ year
> restoration. Lots of fun until the "new" fuel pump would quit on me
> once it had to pump more than just idle. The car will idle forever it
> seems but just romp it for a few 1000 rpms and the pump wants to shut
> off. It seemed to come back to life after sitting about 5 minutes. I
> took a look at the points and they were slightly pitted. Readjusted
> and filed, still had the problem. It seems to be thermal. Anyone else
> had this problem. What about the new all electonic SU pumps?
>
> I am considering buying a Facet pump. I noticed in JC Whitney they
> now have a new style that seems to have the same specs. My car is
> negative ground . What is involved in installing the Facet. Will I
> have to cut my "new" fuel lines or can I get an adapter. Looks like
> the Facet is female whereas SU was male fittings. I think I have seen
> on the list that 2.5-4 psi is the right pressure. Is that the right one?
>
> Also the BMC manual was confusing about float settings. For the HD8
> carb's is it 5/16 or 7/16 th? The book sent me all over the place and
> it never was clear which setting was correct for the HD8. Barry Pate
> 1967 BJ8
From Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 05:03:35 -0800
Subject: Re: Why M****
I for one have spent a small fortune with Moss and others in the UK and
USA. Moss is fast and has done the right thing for parts returns even
when there was doubt that the part was OK before I "installed" it. They
always give me the benefit of the doubt. Lucky for them I learned from
my mistakes and usually only have to install a part once now. They
often offer small breaks in price / shipping and provide those useful
10% coupons at events.
Jeeze I have needed and still need/want a bigger pile of new parts. I
must admit though, I do get annoyed sometimes with the sheer quanity of
brown paper the shipping folks use in their packing. heheheheheh
I have been in the manufacturing business before and it must be quite a
challenge to make all the parts to close specs without a original to
compare to and one of every car to fit it on. I digress............
Moss get a thumbs up from me. I'll give em 2 thumbs up if they don't
jack prices up on march 18th as the stickers on the new pricelists indicate.
Tracy
Dave & Marlene wrote:
> Whaat??
> No Moss Motors defenders? I for one think that they have a lot of
> great parts & a few not so good. A lot of people would be going
> without parts if they had to use UK or AU for everything. Guess I'm
> just not smart enough to buy "good" parts. Oh well there will probably
> be another public argument to waste space & everyones time.
> D
>
>
> busyrider@springmail.com wrote:
>
>> Some people, including myself, have a problem uttering the name.
>> Over on the Spridget list someone suggested a modification of the
>> classic bumper sticker that we all know and love to :
>>
>> "Parts falling off this car are of the finest Taiwanese manufacture"
>>
>> Fred Criswell
From ahy3000 at comcast.net
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 13:46:26 +0000
Subject: UK Advise Sought
My wife and I are planning a trip to Bury St Edmond in the London/Cambridge
(East Anglia area?) in early April. We have a son-in-law flying F15s out of
Lakenheath. I've read about a Transport Museum in Duxford that sounds
interesting. Can you recommend any other sights that would be of interest to a
Healey owner?
Other interests include kayaking and Royal Rangers (a scouting program).
TIA
BW
--
Burt Weiner
'63 BJ7
HBJ7L/23582
ahy3000@comcast.net
From "Classic-Car-World Ltd" <enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 14:06:50 -0000
Subject: Re: UK Advise Sought
http://www.circuitdriver.com/guides/snetterton.asp
The circuit is part of the Brands-Hatch group www.brands-hatch.co.uk where
you should be able to get a list of events for the duration you are over
here.
If there is anything else I can help you with then please do not hesitate to
ask.
Kindest regards
Tom
Tom McCay AH3000 BJ8
Classic-Car-World Ltd
www.classic-car-world.co.uk
www.ccw-tools.co.uk
----- Original Message -----
From: <ahy3000@comcast.net>
To: "Austin Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2004 1:46 PM
Subject: UK Advise Sought
> UK Listers,
>
> My wife and I are planning a trip to Bury St Edmond in the
London/Cambridge (East Anglia area?) in early April. We have a son-in-law
flying F15s out of Lakenheath. I've read about a Transport Museum in Duxford
that sounds interesting. Can you recommend any other sights that would be
of interest to a Healey owner?
>
> Other interests include kayaking and Royal Rangers (a scouting program).
>
> TIA
>
> BW
>
> --
> Burt Weiner
> '63 BJ7
> HBJ7L/23582
> ahy3000@comcast.net
From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 10:08:50 EST
Subject: Re: UK Advise Sought
> My wife and I are planning a trip to Bury St Edmond in the London/Cambridge
> (East Anglia area?) in early April. We have a son-in-law flying F15s out of
> Lakenheath. I've read about a Transport Museum in Duxford that sounds
> interesting. Can you recommend any other sights that would be of interest to
>a
> Healey owner?
>
> Other interests include kayaking and Royal Rangers (a scouting program).
>
> TIA
>
> BW
Hi from the UK,
I'm sure you've been here before many times, but it's important to remember
what a small place it is.So, distances are,'t so important....what matters is
the quality of the road and the expectation of traffic etc. I hope you'll have
a car? Most of our hire cars are shift. Maybe specify auto as you'll have
plenty to do friving on our side.........?
Going north from London up the motorway, M40, you could go to the (British
Motor) Heritage Museum at Gaydon. It's about a mile from exit 12.
Another 20 minutes up the motorway would take you to Warwick, exit 15. Great
castle...huge place...very complete...lovely "State Rooms"....dungeons
(torture chamber)...weapons etcetc. Warwick also famous for DMH
connection...The Cape
etc. (I went to the converted cinema they used as a showroom years ago, and
bought some bits for my first 3000. I forget who'd taken it over, but it
wasn't in Healey hands).
Warwick to Stratford on Avon, for the Shakespeare bit, is very easy, about 10
miles, but not in the right direction. From the Warwick area you'd pick up
the A14, a good road, which would dump you in the right area for Bury,
Lakenheath, Duxford etc. The latter is a great place.
Any other help, email me and I'll try to assist.
Simon
From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 09:25:35 -0600
Subject: RE: UK Advise Sought
Patton
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of ahy3000@comcast.net
Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2004 7:46 AM
To: Austin Healey
Subject: UK Advise Sought
UK Listers,
My wife and I are planning a trip to Bury St Edmond in the London/Cambridge
(East Anglia area?) in early April. We have a son-in-law flying F15s out of
Lakenheath. I've read about a Transport Museum in Duxford that sounds
interesting. Can you recommend any other sights that would be of interest
to a Healey owner?
Other interests include kayaking and Royal Rangers (a scouting program).
TIA
BW
From "Malaney, David W" <DavidWMalaney at eaton.com>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 10:29:20 -0500
Subject: Z Therapy Carb Rebuilders
***********************************
Dave
61 BN7
From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 07:41:11 -0800
Subject: RE: Z Therapy Carb Rebuilders
From "John Rued" <rudedoggg at earthlink.net>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 10:47:38 -0600
Subject: Re: UK Advise Sought
Try these out:
1. The abbey garden in Bury: check ouit the park bench made out of a B-17
gas tank
2. Hoist a few at The Nutshell (???): The world's smallest pub. Check it
out when drunk German Air Force guys are quoting Schiller.
3. Have lunch The Flying Fortress Pub in Rougham: This is one of the
service buildings from the old airfield.
4. Visit The Swan Hotel in Lavenham: A shrine to the U.S. 8th Air Force
presence in East Anglia. Cool little town, too.
5. Visit Thorpe Abbotts: restored control tower on the base that the
Bloody One Hundredth (Bomb Group) flew out of.
6. Have fish and chips along the River Ouse in Ely; check out the
cathedral.
7. The zoo at Banham; check out the prairee dogs sunning their goolies.
8. Then check out Duxford.
Whatever you do, you won't run out of things to do.
JR
From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 11:38:21 -0600
Subject: Re: cadmium plating parts, clear urethane? What to do?
money that I could have spent drinkin' good beer!
My garage is reletively dry too. I have dehumidifiers, but I suppose if I'm
not always there to turn them on then stuff can rust in short order.
I have been thinking about steel wooling or scotch-briting these parts while on
the car and then clear coating them with something. Perhaps a urethane clear
from a two-stage paint system. Has anyone else done this??? Let me know what
others have done with the problem of fighting corrosion during and after a
restoration without have to remove every fastener to have replated.
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
63 BJ-7
Quoting Warthodson@aol.com:
> I am having trouble getting a good job of cadmium plating on the hardware
> (bolts, nuts, etc.) for my Healey. The parts look good when I bring them
> home,
> but after a few months they develop black spots all over them. It resembles
> the
> tarnish that develops on silver. I have had them replated three times with
> the
> same results. Has anyone had similar experience & does any one know what the
>
> problem is? I am considering sending them out to Burbank Plating in Pacoima,
>
> CA. Has anyone had any experience with them?
> Thanks,
> Gary Hodson
> Kansas City
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 13:17:48 EST
Subject: 100/6 BN7
> I believe the early 3000's were intended simply to be the next 100/6, and
> the decision to change the model designation came after some cars were
already
> in the distribution pipeline. The differences between the late 100/6 and
> early 3000 are so small (larger displacement engine and front disc brakes)
that
> I do not believe the BN7 and BT7 were originally intended as an entirely new
> model. Rather I suspect that the marketing folks were still trying to
> overcome the effects of the bad press the 100/6 received when it was first
> introduced with less performance than its predecessor, and decided at the
last
> minute to change the name.
>
After extensive research and examination of marketing materials published
during 1959 in the transition to the 2912 engine and front disc brakes, as
well
as first-hand inspection of at least ten cars manufactured in the first 1000
BN7/BT7 run, Roger Moment and I would agree with you completely. We believe
the
decision to market the BN/BT7s as "3000s" was not made until after production
had commenced, and then the change was made as fast as the new badges could be
made up and inserted into the pipeline (remember that all bodies began their
lives at Jensen, which was producing them under contract to BMC. So think
about your own company and how long it would take them to make a change in a
product where the major core component came from an outside supplier, after
the
decision had been made to make the change. Makes sense to me that even if the
marketing department decided to sell the cars as 3000s as of the date they
went
into production, it would still take at least a few weeks to implement the
decision, and in the meantime, no one is going to stop the production lines to
wait for the new badges.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
co-author, Austin-Healey Restoration Guide
Motorbooks International
editor, Classic Motorsports Magazine
From "Mr. Finespanner" <mrfinespanner at earthlink.net>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 13:22:48 -0600
Subject: Restoration shop
>Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 13:33:18 EST
>From: Slvrbulit2@aol.com
>Subject: Restoration shop
>
>Does anyone know of a restoration shop near Albany,
>NY or within a few hours drive?
>Thanks Seth
>
>Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 17:17:18 -0500
>From: Jay Fishbein <type79@ix.netcom.com>
>Subject: Re: Restoration shop
>
>Seth,
>Contact Gabe Delgiudice at:
>Highland Automotive
>Rt 9W-P.O.Box 412
>Highland, NY 12528
(>914) 691-2265
From jeff hansen <jcarl_1998 at yahoo.com>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 11:31:37 -0800 (PST)
Subject: lost healey
TIA
Jeff
__________________________________
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Yahoo! Mail SpamGuard - Read only the mail you want.
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From James E Austin <ahbugeye1 at juno.com>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 14:44:42 -0500
Subject: Motor Mount rubber for a BJ7
Sam Austin
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 12:15:10 -0800
Subject: Vintage Wireless Co.
Thanks.
Terry Blubaugh
Southern California
'60 BT7
From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 12:33:06 -0800 (PST)
Subject: re. Re: cadmium plating parts
Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 18:39:12 EST
From: Warthodson@aol.com
Subject: Re: cadmium plating parts
It is my understanding that the parts were originally
cadmium plated.
Cadmium
plating looks very similar to zinc plating (bright
silver) unless it is
colored or passivated as you say. The original parts
were not colored.
Cadmium
provides better corrosion protection than zinc.
Gary Hodson
__________________________________
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From "Classic-Car-World Ltd" <enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 20:54:00 -0000
Subject: Re: Vintage Wireless Co.
Kindest regards
Tom
Tom McCay AH3000 BJ8
Classic-Car-World Ltd
www.classic-car-world.co.uk
www.ccw-tools.co.uk
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2004 8:15 PM
Subject: Vintage Wireless Co.
> Would one of our friends in the UK be kind enough to provide me with an
> internet (or snail mail) address for A. C. James, at the Vintage
> Wireless Co. (Ltd.)?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Terry Blubaugh
> Southern California
> '60 BT7
From "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe at earthlink.net>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 18:32:41 -0500
Subject: Rocker Rebuild
I see a number of different suggested rebuilders. Does anyone have a rebuider
they have used who was reliable, prompt and good? Any suggestions on one vs
another. I would like to get it done in the next few weeks. Does any
rebuilder turn things around in a few weeks?
Fred
63 BJ7
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 18:39:54 -0500
Subject: Re: cadmium plating parts, clear urethane? What to do?
I have heard similar results with the home plating kits. I must admit it is
pretty bad when the rust shows up in one year and protected year at that. I
had all my Zn plating done at once and by a local plater. Very satisfied
except for what he charged, but he did work with me on several pieces in the
first few months. After 5 years everything is still very good, not
excellent.
As far as what to do, I would send out what you could to be redone by a
plater. I know some pieces will be a real pain to do that so your approach
sounds as good as any.
Keith Pennell
> Last year I bought a zinc plating kit from Eastwood. Everything, nuts,
bolts
> and washers came out looking real nice and polished up with 0000 steel
wool.
> However, this year ALL of my nuts, bolts and washers have tarnished to an
ugly
> yellow and/or rusted. This is all from just sitting in my garage while my
> Healey is still being restored!!! A lot of work for nothing. That is
time and
>
> money that I could have spent drinkin' good beer!
> My garage is reletively dry too. I have dehumidifiers, but I suppose if
I'm
> not always there to turn them on then stuff can rust in short order.
> I have been thinking about steel wooling or scotch-briting these parts
while on
>
> the car and then clear coating them with something. Perhaps a urethane
clear
> from a two-stage paint system. Has anyone else done this??? Let me know
what
> others have done with the problem of fighting corrosion during and after a
> restoration without have to remove every fastener to have replated.
>
> Randy Dickson
> Healey Archaeologist
> 63 BJ-7
From "M Lempert" <mlempert at bellsouth.net>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 18:57:09 -0500
Subject: Damned Viruses
Someone's machine is infected with a virus. I have been getting
undeliverable email messages for mail I haven't sent out to addresses I'm
not familiar with. There is a virus circulating out there that has randomly
selected my name from someone's address book and applied it to the "From"
field. If you receive an email with an attachment from my address (although
not really from me) that has an ambiguous message or subject field, don't
open it (the attachment).
My machine is protected by McAfee and is kept current with updates. I
highly recommend a similar approach to others.
Regards,
Mike L.
From David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 16:45:21 -0800
Subject: Re: Rocker Rebuild
> I am in need of a rocker rebuild.
>
> I see a number of different suggested rebuilders. Does anyone have a rebuider
> they have used who was reliable, prompt and good? Any suggestions on one vs
> another. I would like to get it done in the next few weeks. Does any
> rebuilder turn things around in a few weeks?
>
> Fred
> 63 BJ7
Fred we have the rocker assy's available on an exchange basis. They have a
new shaft and all new bushings, the rocker faces are all re faced and are
ready to install.
--
--
David Nock
NEW E-mail Addresses!!!
David Nock, Technical Questions healeydoc@sbcglobal.net
Sheila Nock-Huggins, Parts Questions britishcardoc@sbcglobal.net
British Car Specialists 2060 N. Wilson Way Stockton CA 95205
Phone 209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030
http://www.britishcarspecialists.com
From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 19:49:05 -0600
Subject: BMIHT certificate?????
I hope to have my engine started this weekend if all goes well. I rebuilt it
last year. My buddy Karl is coming up from Milwaukee on friday to help out.
Put the gearbox in and other items. One thing is for sure. A great deal of
beer (Becks) will be consumed as well as awesome food, (beef tenderloin in
Merlot sauce with gorgonzola cheese and toast tips). I have been trying to get
my engine ready all week, ie new fuel tank, fuel line, electrics, rebuilt
rockers, much, much more. This will be the first tiem in 20 years that this
motor and car has been running. Wish me luck!!!!!!!
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
63 BJ-7
Sturgeon Bay, WI.
From "Kenny Johnson" <theswed at hotmail.com>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 18:09:29 -0800
Subject: Suspension
Kenny
61 BT-7
ALL of the suspension components are new.
_________________________________________________________________
Dream of owning a home? Find out how in the First-time Home Buying Guide.
http://special.msn.com/home/firsthome.armx
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2004 13:19:09 +1100
Subject: RE: Suspension
It will ride down with wear. Once you drive it the suspension and ride
heights will settle as long as you rebuilt it all by the book.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
-----Original Message-----
From: Kenny Johnson [mailto:theswed@hotmail.com]
Sent: Thursday, 26 February 2004 1:09 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Suspension
While finishing up my bodywork (with the body on the car and the engine
installed) I noticed the stance of my car looks very high. It looks to
be
riding high in the front and in the rear. I used a 2 inch block per the
manual before tightening down the front suspension. Did I do it
correctly?
Is there anything that can adjust the rear suspension? Thanks.
Kenny
61 BT-7
ALL of the suspension components are new.
**********************************************************************
This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain
privileged information or confidential information or both. If you
are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender.
**********************************************************************
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 18:41:27 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Suspension
You have to drive the car around for a few days before
it settles down. This is particularly true for rear
springs....
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- Kenny Johnson <theswed@hotmail.com> wrote:
> While finishing up my bodywork (with the body on the
> car and the engine
> installed) I noticed the stance of my car looks very
> high. It looks to be
> riding high in the front and in the rear. I used a
> 2 inch block per the
> manual before tightening down the front suspension.
> Did I do it correctly?
> Is there anything that can adjust the rear
> suspension? Thanks.
>
> Kenny
>
> 61 BT-7
>
> ALL of the suspension components are new.
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 21:42:16 -0500
Subject: Re: lost healey
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "jeff hansen" <jcarl_1998@yahoo.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2004 2:31 PM
Subject: lost healey
> Does anyone know anything about a 100-6 Healey that
> was sold in Newark, DE around 12/2002?
>
> TIA
> Jeff
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 22:23:02 -0500
Subject: Re: What grade bolts to use, again
Why is it necessary to reuse the old bolts? Replating sounds expensive
and there's no guarantees on longevity. I realize these are simple
questions but what am I missing.
Mark
>
> > Oh - and don't cad plate grade 8 fasteners. If you want to plate them,
so
> > they are nice & shiny & won't rust - get them electroless nickel plated,
> and
> > get the plater to bake them to prevent hydrogen embrittlement.
From "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe at earthlink.net>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 22:45:49 -0500
Subject: Rocker Rebuild
Ten people responded to my request!
Thanks gang!
Fred
63 BJ7
From Bob Tarwater <btarh2o at earthlink.net>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 22:15:41 -0600
Subject: Re: Suspension
Kenny Johnson wrote:
> While finishing up my bodywork (with the body on the car and the
> engine installed) I noticed the stance of my car looks very high. It
> looks to be riding high in the front and in the rear. I used a 2 inch
> block per the manual before tightening down the front suspension. Did
> I do it correctly? Is there anything that can adjust the rear
> suspension? Thanks.
>
> Kenny
>
> 61 BT-7
>
> ALL of the suspension components are new.
>
> _________________________________________________________________
From "M Lempert" <mlempert at bellsouth.net>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 23:22:12 -0500
Subject: Quick Status
I've spoken to an ANSA (I keep wanting to say NASA) rep again today.
Unfortunately we haven't been able to speak for any length of time, but
will be following up again. He seems very interested in further discussion
with me. We'll see how receptive they are to the idea after I fully
communicate it. It'll be a departure from their usual approach. At this
point I see them being a part of the end result, not the end-to-end
solution.
Received my first NOS Abarth a few days ago; another on the way. Matt
Wilson was kind enough to send me an Abarth advertisement in a 1963 R&T
magazine. The system pictured was for the 100-6 / 3000. It utilized a dual
muffler in series configuration. I don't recall ever seeing that before.
Is that how you remember it (those who were there when) ?
Mike L.
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 21:10:21 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Quick Status
I know you are talking about just making one system
for all healeys... but if possible, it would be great
to do a BJ8 system like the original Abarth. I really
liked the sound of that set up.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- M Lempert <mlempert@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> Quick status on the exhaust initiative.....
>
> I've spoken to an ANSA (I keep wanting to say NASA)
> rep again today.
> Unfortunately we haven't been able to speak for any
> length of time, but
> will be following up again. He seems very
> interested in further discussion
> with me. We'll see how receptive they are to the
> idea after I fully
> communicate it. It'll be a departure from their
> usual approach. At this
> point I see them being a part of the end result,
> not the end-to-end
> solution.
>
> Received my first NOS Abarth a few days ago;
> another on the way. Matt
> Wilson was kind enough to send me an Abarth
> advertisement in a 1963 R&T
> magazine. The system pictured was for the 100-6 /
> 3000. It utilized a dual
> muffler in series configuration. I don't recall
> ever seeing that before.
> Is that how you remember it (those who were there
> when) ?
>
> Mike L.
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 22:12:50 -0700
Subject: Re: Suspension
You can make the car sit higher, more ground clearance, by using rear
springs with more arch & front springs that are longer. Kenny's car will
likely settle quite a bit as the springs & bushings are worked, so this
is only a temporary condition for him. His axle at present is likely to
be at full rebound & hard against the frame.
The problem is that the big Healeys have a limited amount of room for
the rear axle to travel up & down in. The frame goes under the axle not
above it as with most cars. The body is too close to the frame &
severely limits suspension travel. The BJ8 phase two was built with a
little more axle room & travel & does sit higher.
With everything normal & going down the road the axle needs to be able
to move up for bumps & down for rebound. The typical setup has around 4
inches of bump travel & 1.5 inches of rebound travel. If you use up the
available down (rebound) travel of the axle by raising the ride height,
the axle will be constantly banging on the frame everytime that the car
rebounds from a bump. There is no easy way to improve things without
considerable modification to the frame or body.
Dave Russell
BN2
Bob Tarwater wrote:
> Kenny,
> You may be on to somthing here! Let us know how you did it.
> Bob Tarwater
> BJ7 (still too low for speed bumps)
From Bob Tarwater <btarh2o at earthlink.net>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 23:51:40 -0600
Subject: Re: Suspension
Dave & Marlene wrote:
> Bob,
>
> You can make the car sit higher, more ground clearance, by using rear
> springs with more arch & front springs that are longer. Kenny's car
> will likely settle quite a bit as the springs & bushings are worked,
> so this is only a temporary condition for him. His axle at present is
> likely to be at full rebound & hard against the frame.
>
> The problem is that the big Healeys have a limited amount of room for
> the rear axle to travel up & down in. The frame goes under the axle
> not above it as with most cars. The body is too close to the frame &
> severely limits suspension travel. The BJ8 phase two was built with a
> little more axle room & travel & does sit higher.
>
>
>
> With everything normal & going down the road the axle needs to be
> able to move up for bumps & down for rebound. The typical setup has
> around 4 inches of bump travel & 1.5 inches of rebound travel. If you
> use up the available down (rebound) travel of the axle by raising the
> ride height, the axle will be constantly banging on the frame
> everytime that the car rebounds from a bump. There is no easy way to
> improve things without considerable modification to the frame or body.
>
> Dave Russell
> BN2
>
> Bob Tarwater wrote:
>
>> Kenny,
>> You may be on to somthing here! Let us know how you did it.
>> Bob Tarwater
>> BJ7 (still too low for speed bumps)
From "F. Ronald Rader" <rader at interworld.net>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 21:51:48 -0800
Subject: Re: Quick Status
At 09:10 PM 2/25/2004, Blue One Hundred wrote:
>Mike -
>
>I know you are talking about just making one system
>for all healeys... but if possible, it would be great
>to do a BJ8 system like the original Abarth. I really
>liked the sound of that set up.
>
>Cheers,
>Alan
>'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
>
>--
From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 22:41:17 -0800 (PST)
Subject: new front seat bases
__________________________________
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From James Wilson <j.wilson at mgt.gla.ac.uk>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2004 09:25:40 -0000
Subject: RE: BMIHT certificate?????
http://www.heritage.org.uk/archive/trace.htm
Is the web site for the BMIHT and it describes how to order one. They take
credit cards which would probably be the easiest way for someone outside the
UK to pay, and can be contacted using e-mail:
rbacchus@landrover.com
The current pricing is #28 or $50. Hope this helps you.
James.
"I want to send in to the British Motor Industry Heritage Trust
the numbers on my BJ-7. I read on the AH Club USA site that $40 is
sufficient. However, I doubt that this is a current amount considering the
US$ in the toilet and all. Does anybody know the current amount to send
in?"
From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2004 07:43:53 -0500
Subject: RE: Suspension
Tom
> [Original Message]
> From: Quinn, Patrick <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
> To: Kenny Johnson <theswed@hotmail.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 2/25/04 9:22:00 PM
> Subject: RE: Suspension
>
> G'day Kenny
>
> It will ride down with wear. Once you drive it the suspension and ride
> heights will settle as long as you rebuilt it all by the book.
>
> Regards
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
>
> 1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
> 1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Kenny Johnson [mailto:theswed@hotmail.com]
> Sent: Thursday, 26 February 2004 1:09 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Suspension
>
>
> While finishing up my bodywork (with the body on the car and the engine
> installed) I noticed the stance of my car looks very high. It looks to
> be
> riding high in the front and in the rear. I used a 2 inch block per the
>
> manual before tightening down the front suspension. Did I do it
> correctly?
> Is there anything that can adjust the rear suspension? Thanks.
From Warthodson at aol.com
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2004 07:59:51 EST
Subject: Re: What grade bolts to use, again
> Why is it necessary to reuse the old bolts?
My reason for reusing the old bolts, etc. is:
1. The markings on the new bolt heads are not the same as the old bolts.
2. I wanted to have the parts cadmium plated, because it provides better
corrosion protection than zinc plating & it looks original.
3. I have a glass bead blaster & it was therapeutic to spend hours cleaning
the parts.
4. In addition to bolts, nuts & washers, there are some small misc. parts
like brackets clips, etc., that are not available new & they needed to be
cleaned
& plated for protection, too.
Gary Hodson
From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2004 08:55:28 EST
Subject: Re: Vintage Wireless Co.
> Would one of our friends in the UK be kind enough to provide me with an
> internet (or snail mail) address for A. C. James, at the Vintage
> Wireless Co. (Ltd.)?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Terry Blubaugh
> Southern California
> '60 BT7
>
http://www.vintagewireless.co.uk/
174 Cross Street,Sale,Cheshire.M33 7AQ England. 0161-973-0438
Suppose this is it?
Yrs,
Simon Lachlan
From "Rick &7& Neves" <Rick at genomictechnologies.com>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2004 09:04:38 -0500
Subject: Water Temperature sensor attachment to radiator - fitting Woes
All of the auctions on Ebay show the fitting on the probe end to be male and I
don't see any adapter offered by MoSS (I spelt it out!)
Do I have a replacement radiator??
Sincerely
Rick Neves
'56 BN-2
_._
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.593 / Virus Database: 376 - Release Date: 02/20/2004
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2004 08:10:50 -0700
Subject: Re: Water Temperature sensor attachment to radiator - fitting
If you are referring to the BN2, i believe the radiator end of the gage
tube should have a bulb on the end & a nut (inside thread) that fits
over the radiator fitting (outside thread). There is a socket in the
radiator fitting for the bulb to seat in. All unisex terms. I think the
radiator fitting is correct & that you have a different gage end or gage
than original.
Dave Russell
BN2
Rick &7& Neves wrote:
> I just went to install a new temperature sensor into my nicely restored
> radiator and I am looking at two Male connectors. I first thought that I had
> gotten the wrong gauge but I got the old grungy gauge and probe out of the
> "Old Stuff" box and it has a male end as well. The probe end appears to be a
> straight thread and I think the end on the tank is a tapered thread but I'm
> not sure.
>
> All of the auctions on Ebay show the fitting on the probe end to be male and I
> don't see any adapter offered by MoSS (I spelt it out!)
>
> Do I have a replacement radiator??
>
>
> Sincerely
>
> Rick Neves
> '56 BN-2
From "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER at netl.doe.gov>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2004 14:49:16 -0500
Subject: Old Car (Not Healey)
Randy Cooper
BT7
From "Dennis Broughel" <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2004 15:20:08 -0500
Subject: virus
From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2004 15:43:35 -0500
Subject: Re: Old Car (Not Healey)
Aston-Martin drop-head coupe, if memory serves, which, increasingly, it
doesn't. Need to see the film again to be certain.
--
John Miller
From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2004 15:38:02 -0600
Subject: RE: Old Car (Not Healey)
-----Original Message-----
From: John Miller [mailto:healeys@n4vu.com]
Sent: Thursday, February 26, 2004 2:44 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Old Car (Not Healey)
On Thursday, February 26, 2004 2:49 pm, Randolph Cooper wrote:
> I was watching the tube last night and saw Hitchcock's "The Birds"
from
> '63. Do any of you know what kind of car Tippi Heddren was driving?
It
> looked to be Brit, a 2+2 convertible with wire wheels, and a nice
sound,
> but most shots were profiles and I couldn't see a grill badge. I did
> notice that the back window looked to be glass (not yellow plastic).
> What was I looking at?
Aston-Martin drop-head coupe, if memory serves, which, increasingly, it
doesn't. Need to see the film again to be certain.
--
John Miller
From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2004 17:41:25 -0500
Subject: Re: Rocker Rebuild
I bought a rebuilt complete rocker shaft/arm assembly for my 1275 Midget
engine from this outfit:
http://www.rockerarms.com
I sent them my old assembly, and they sent me the rebuilt one in a few days,
since they had it on the shelf. They also list assemblies for Austin-Healey,
although I haven't used them for that**; I haven't yet got my 1275 engine
reinstalled, but the quality of the workmanship on the rebuilt rocker shaft
assembly appeared good.
**Roger Moment installed new bushings in the rocker arms for my BJ8, and
reamed them to fit the new shaft. I supplied the parts and did the
disassembly/reassembly. (After about 40,000 miles) so far, so good.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Fred Wescoe
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2004 6:32 PM
Subject: Rocker Rebuild
I am in need of a rocker rebuild.
I see a number of different suggested rebuilders. Does anyone have a
rebuider
they have used who was reliable, prompt and good? Any suggestions on one
vs
another. I would like to get it done in the next few weeks. Does any
rebuilder turn things around in a few weeks?
Fred
63 BJ7
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2004 17:41:34 -0600
Subject: Re: What grade bolts to use, again
From Brian Drew <drewhome at ozemail.com.au>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 12:15:59 +1100
Subject: Re: What grade bolts to use, again
Brian Drew
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2004 20:58:44 -0500
Subject: Ebay , Wierd Experience
The address is very plainly written and correct.
I can't figure out what is going on here?
1- Is there anyway this company can deny mail delivery to buy themselves
time to get a part back in stock in order to fulfill their sales
obligations?
2-How can a post office not be able to find a legitimate business
address?
3-Has this happened to anyone else lately?
Any advise on my next step?
Thanks
Mark,
58-MGA
60-MGA
76-MGB
74.5-MGBGT
60-BT7
From "Brad Weldon 55BN1" <healey at bradw.com>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2004 18:08:39 -0800
Subject: Re: Old Car (Not Healey)
I LOVE Hitchcock and his "Birds" movie! I google'd for "Hitchcock Birds
convertible" and found this link and a bit of history about the actual car.
http://www.marreyt-classics.com/autosdetail.cfm?ID=208
Sold new in 1954 to Jules Stein, of Santa Monica Boulevard, Beverly Hills,
California, this owner of the MCA actor's studios lent his car in 1963 to
filmdirector Alfred Hitchcock and actress Tippi Hedren for what would become
a cult film : "The Birds".
Go to the website, there's a great picture on the car and the birds.
Brad Weldon
BN1
Webmaster, Austin Healey Club USA
http://www.healey.org/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 26, 2004 11:49 AM
Subject: Old Car (Not Healey)
> Group,
> I was watching the tube last night and saw Hitchcock's "The Birds" from
> '63. Do any of you know what kind of car Tippi Heddren was driving? It
> looked to be Brit, a 2+2 convertible with wire wheels, and a nice sound,
> but most shots were profiles and I couldn't see a grill badge. I did
> notice that the back window looked to be glass (not yellow plastic).
> What was I looking at?
>
> Randy Cooper
> BT7
From "Scott Willis" <ahpowered at hotmail.com>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2004 21:01:14 -0600
Subject: The Austin Healey Magazine Deal
I'd be glad to send $10 plus shipping (US only) to someone that would send me
a stack of Austin Healey Magazines to fumble through for a couple of months.
Then I send them all back to you undamaged.
Please email my other address scott@cwoutdoors.com if you can oblige. I can
only check this AH address every so often. The ole wife said no more mag
subscriptions. I think a box of "borrowed" mags will fit under the radar.
"Yo Honey, one of my pals just wanted me to read these."
Thanks for feeding the addiction.
Cheers,
Scott Willis
2713 Thompson dr
Bowling Green, KY 42104 (Nope. No Vette)
Mashed 60 BN7
59 MGA
73 Bonnie
+ Multitude of vintage guitars
From "Scott Willis" <ahpowered at hotmail.com>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2004 21:10:08 -0600
Subject: Re: Old Car (Not Healey)
I always wanted to know what that car was. I have not seen the movie in
years but I loved watching Grace rumble through the hills in that
unadentifiable car.
Cheers,
S
Mashed BN7
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brad Weldon 55BN1" <healey@bradw.com>
To: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 26, 2004 8:08 PM
Subject: Re: Old Car (Not Healey)
> Hey Randy,
>
> I LOVE Hitchcock and his "Birds" movie! I google'd for "Hitchcock Birds
> convertible" and found this link and a bit of history about the actual
car.
>
> http://www.marreyt-classics.com/autosdetail.cfm?ID=208
>
> Sold new in 1954 to Jules Stein, of Santa Monica Boulevard, Beverly Hills,
> California, this owner of the MCA actor's studios lent his car in 1963 to
> filmdirector Alfred Hitchcock and actress Tippi Hedren for what would
become
> a cult film : "The Birds".
>
> Go to the website, there's a great picture on the car and the birds.
>
> Brad Weldon
> BN1
> Webmaster, Austin Healey Club USA
> http://www.healey.org/
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, February 26, 2004 11:49 AM
> Subject: Old Car (Not Healey)
>
>
> > Group,
> > I was watching the tube last night and saw Hitchcock's "The Birds" from
> > '63. Do any of you know what kind of car Tippi Heddren was driving? It
> > looked to be Brit, a 2+2 convertible with wire wheels, and a nice sound,
> > but most shots were profiles and I couldn't see a grill badge. I did
> > notice that the back window looked to be glass (not yellow plastic).
> > What was I looking at?
> >
> > Randy Cooper
> > BT7
From Dave Carpenter <d.carpenter7 at verizon.net>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2004 23:36:38 -0500
Subject: Re: Ebay , Wierd Experience
Dave
From "Ron Davies" <rdavies1 at cox.net>
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2004 20:50:33 -0800
Subject: torque setting
From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2004 23:01:19 -0600
Subject: torque setting
> Listers:
> Anyone know offhand the torque setting for the four bolts holding the rear
> hubs/splines on a 67 BJ8?
> Thanks :-)
> Ron
From "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid at hotmail.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 05:22:42 +0000
Subject: RE: The Austin Healey Magazine Deal
OK, then instead of a "subscription," how about a "membership"? ;-)
Reid
Reid Trummel
Portland, Oregon
100, 100M, Bugeye, Ski-Master
_________________________________________________________________
Get a FREE online computer virus scan from McAfee when you click here.
http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963
From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 01:34:53 EST
Subject: Re: Austin Healey BN2 For Sale
PS I not making money on this car just helping a friend.
<Listers
Delete if not interested in a 100 for sale.
I mentioned last week that a friend would be selling his 56 BN2 soon. He
called again tonight and asked for help. This is a nice driver with three
years on
a partial restoration. New interior trim, trunk lining, gas tank, hydraulics,
paint, chrome, tires, top, tonneau and side curtains, engine and engine
compartment detailed, etc. Car is Reno red with red interior and carpet,
black
weather equipment. I have photos during the restoration that can be posted and
the owner has promised some exterior current shots to post. Car is located in
Honolulu. Originally a mainland car brought to Hawaii by the current owner.
If
interested in more info please contact me off the list. Asking $24K but will
be open to offers. >
From <lists at autox.team.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 01:01:54 -0700
Subject: Forwarded: Portland Oregon Help Needed
http://www.team.net/posting.html
Reply to author, not me.
mjb.
----
------- Start of forwarded message -------
Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 18:01:36 -0500
From: George Marinos <gmari@optonline.net>
Subject: Portland Oregon Help Needed
Sorry to bomb the lists but if anyone who lives near Portland Oregon would
be willing to inspect a car for me, please contact me off list.
Thanks.
George Marinos
Glen Rock, NJ
Gmari@optonline.net
------- End of forwarded message -------
From George Marinos <gmari at optonline.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 05:52:32 -0500
Subject: Portland Oregon Help Needed
Thanks.
George Marinos
Glen Rock, NJ
Gmari@optonline.net
From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 07:33:09 -0500
Subject: RE: The Austin Healey Magazine Deal
> [Original Message]
> From: Scott Willis <ahpowered@hotmail.com>
> To: Lists, Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 2/26/04 10:04:14 PM
> Subject: The Austin Healey Magazine Deal
>
> OK listers,
> Here's the deal for today. Unfortunately no one will get rich.
>
> I'd be glad to send $10 plus shipping (US only) to someone that would
send me
> a stack of Austin Healey Magazines to fumble through for a couple of
months.
> Then I send them all back to you undamaged.
>
> Please email my other address scott@cwoutdoors.com if you can oblige. I
can
> only check this AH address every so often. The ole wife said no more mag
> subscriptions. I think a box of "borrowed" mags will fit under the radar.
>
> "Yo Honey, one of my pals just wanted me to read these."
>
> Thanks for feeding the addiction.
>
> Cheers,
> Scott Willis
> 2713 Thompson dr
> Bowling Green, KY 42104 (Nope. No Vette)
>
> Mashed 60 BN7
> 59 MGA
> 73 Bonnie
> + Multitude of vintage guitars
From Alan Bromfield <Alan.Bromfield at ntl.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 13:42:52 -0000
Subject: Spruce Green
Alan Bromfield
http://www.nfahc.co.uk
-----Original Message-----
From: Brian Drew [mailto:drewhome@ozemail.com.au]
Sent: 27 February 2004 01:16
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject:
Help.
I am restoring a 1955 BN1. originally painted spruce green.
I need to find a paint specification and supplier that can match the
original spruce green color.
Brian Drew
The contents of this email and any attachments are sent for the personal
attention
of the addressee(s) only and may be confidential. If you are not the intended
addressee, any use, disclosure or copying of this email and any attachments is
unauthorised - please notify the sender by return and delete the message. Any
representations or commitments expressed in this email are subject to contract.
ntl Group Limited
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
ARG-GN13.jpg]
From "Vink, Graham" <vinkg at fleishman.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 08:08:56 -0600
Subject: RE: Ebay , Wierd Experience
Individuals can ask the post office to "hold" mail for a certain amount
of time, but I don't know if companies can. And re being out of stock -
well, if they were, they certainly wouldn't have to CASH your check
after receiving it.
So I vote this time for the simplest explanation probably being the
right one. (It's possible that the Post Office discriminates - rightly
so, IMHO - against people who own WAY too many MGs, but that would be
difficult to prove).
:)
-Graham
63 BJ7
former owner of two Triumph TR6s
non-owner now or ever of MGs
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark and kathy LaPierre [mailto:mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net]
Sent: Thursday, February 26, 2004 8:59 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Ebay , Wierd Experience
Just wanted to run this by my friends on the www to see if this is
on the up and up.
I purchased a part on Ebay, sent in my check , waiting, waiting,
waiting, my check comes back to me stating undeliverable as addressed.
I
send out an email to the company that listed the auction in R.I. and
they said they don't know what happened, but I did send it to the right
address
and they said it must be a post office problem. They suggested
resending
it.
The address is very plainly written and correct.
I can't figure out what is going on here?
1- Is there anyway this company can deny mail delivery to buy
themselves
time to get a part back in stock in order to fulfill their sales
obligations?
2-How can a post office not be able to find a legitimate business
address?
3-Has this happened to anyone else lately?
Any advise on my next step?
Thanks
Mark,
58-MGA
60-MGA
76-MGB
74.5-MGBGT
60-BT7
From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 08:12:20 -0600
Subject: footman's loop in trunk, Where?
of the trunk floor is it. This is the piece that the spare tire strap goes
through. Thanks a lot in advance!
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
63 BJ-7
From "Scott Willis" <ahpowered at hotmail.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 10:36:22 -0600
Subject: Re: The Austin Healey Magazine Deal
----- Original Message -----
From: "tom felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
To: "Scott Willis" <ahpowered@hotmail.com>; "Lists, Healey"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 27, 2004 6:33 AM
Subject: RE: The Austin Healey Magazine Deal
> OK Scott---what did you tell the "ole" wife SHE couldn't do??? Works both
> ways you know:):)
>
>
> > [Original Message]
> > From: Scott Willis <ahpowered@hotmail.com>
> > To: Lists, Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Date: 2/26/04 10:04:14 PM
> > Subject: The Austin Healey Magazine Deal
> >
> > OK listers,
> > Here's the deal for today. Unfortunately no one will get rich.
> >
> > I'd be glad to send $10 plus shipping (US only) to someone that would
> send me
> > a stack of Austin Healey Magazines to fumble through for a couple of
> months.
> > Then I send them all back to you undamaged.
> >
> > Please email my other address scott@cwoutdoors.com if you can oblige. I
> can
> > only check this AH address every so often. The ole wife said no more mag
> > subscriptions. I think a box of "borrowed" mags will fit under the
radar.
> >
> > "Yo Honey, one of my pals just wanted me to read these."
> >
> > Thanks for feeding the addiction.
> >
> > Cheers,
> > Scott Willis
> > 2713 Thompson dr
> > Bowling Green, KY 42104 (Nope. No Vette)
> >
> > Mashed 60 BN7
> > 59 MGA
> > 73 Bonnie
> > + Multitude of vintage guitars
From Mike MacLean <macleans at earthlink.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 10:46:33 -0800
Subject: Re: What grade bolts to use, again
Mark and kathy LaPierre wrote:
>BTW, What is the problem with purchasing a couple of bags of the proper
>zinc bolts from one of our suppliers. Are these things that expensive or
>unobtainable? Are the bolt markings on the bolt heads not correct?
>
>Why is it necessary to reuse the old bolts? Replating sounds expensive
>and there's no guarantees on longevity. I realize these are simple
>questions but what am I missing.
>
>Mark
>
>
>
>
>>>Oh - and don't cad plate grade 8 fasteners. If you want to plate them,
>>>
>>>
>so
>
>
>>>they are nice & shiny & won't rust - get them electroless nickel plated,
>>>
>>>
>>and
>>
>>
>>>get the plater to bake them to prevent hydrogen embrittlement.
From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 17:33:05 -0500
Subject: Re: Quick Status
James Lea
Rockport Maine
1962 BT7 II
.
From KingR44916 at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 17:31:55 EST
Subject: front end
From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 18:35:43 -0500
Subject: Healey Sighting
Tom
From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 17:30:47 -0600
Subject: Re: What grade bolts to use, again
store told me that they could special order UNF (fine thread) in just three
days, any nut or bolt. Therefore, any hardware store should be able to do the
same. Granted, the bolts won't have the proper Brit markings but one could
always reface the head on the grinder. Maybe smack it hard with a punch to
leave the little circle in the middle! Just a thought. The nuts and washers
would work anyway and I have found them almost indistinguishable from the
originals.
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
63 BJ-7 Hopefully starts tommorrow!!!!
Quoting Mike MacLean <macleans@earthlink.net>:
> I had all the fasteners plated passive Zinc plated at Active Plating in
> Santa Ana, California (714-547-0356) about 4 years ago for my Bugeye
> restoration. They still look great. Active will charge about $50 to do
> all your fasteners at one time, but you have to provide them clean and
> free of rust. I guess that means a few nights at the wire wheel and a
> few damaged fingers. I would not go with the cad plating as the
> unacceptable frosty look to the finish does not last very long. Even
> zinc plating does not last forever or you would not have to re-plate
> your fasteners for a restoration. Zinc was original and is the best
> option I can think of. Just not too many passive zinc platers due to
> EPA restrictions.
> Mike MacLean
> 56 BN2 under restoration
> 60 Bugeye with zinc plated fasteners
>
> Mark and kathy LaPierre wrote:
>
> >BTW, What is the problem with purchasing a couple of bags of the proper
> >zinc bolts from one of our suppliers. Are these things that expensive or
> >unobtainable? Are the bolt markings on the bolt heads not correct?
> >
> >Why is it necessary to reuse the old bolts? Replating sounds expensive
> >and there's no guarantees on longevity. I realize these are simple
> >questions but what am I missing.
> >
> >Mark
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >>>Oh - and don't cad plate grade 8 fasteners. If you want to plate them,
> >>>
> >>>
> >so
> >
> >
> >>>they are nice & shiny & won't rust - get them electroless nickel plated,
> >>>
> >>>
> >>and
> >>
> >>
> >>>get the plater to bake them to prevent hydrogen embrittlement.
From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 19:00:22 -0500
Subject: Re: front end
I had my BJ8's alignment set to 0 - 1/16" toe-in by an old guy with some
really old equipment in Tullahoma, TN. The car drives just fine and tire wear
is normal, but viewed from the front the tires appear to me to be toed out.
Are you referring to how the tires look, or to how the car is handling?
If you had a modern computer-based alignment, I would be interested in how
that was done. My local shop doesn't know where to start -- not to mention
that my BJ8 is too low to go on their alignment rack.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: KingR44916@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Friday, February 27, 2004 5:31 PM
Subject: front end
anyone ever had a situtation where the front tires seem to be going in
opposite directions when the car is pointed straight.had a wheel alignment
done .but
no difference any opinions
From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 19:09:54 -0500
Subject: Re: front end
Please describe a symptom of wheels seeming to go in opposite directions.
--
John Miller
Paranoid Club meeting this Friday. Now ... just try to find out where!
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 16:20:20 -0800
Subject: Re: footman's loop in trunk, Where?
John Snyder
> I have totally redone my trunk as well as put a new trunk floor in.
> I'm trying to find exactly where do I put the little chrome footman's loop
in
> the trunk. Is it to the left of the latch brace? How far from the shroud
edge
>
> of the trunk floor is it. This is the piece that the spare tire strap goes
> through. Thanks a lot in advance!
>
> Randy Dickson
> Healey Archaeologist
> 63 BJ-7
From "David Masucci" <dmasucci at radiantsoundworks.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 19:29:18 -0500
Subject: Re: front end
If the alignment rack says that it's right (and the guy did his job), then
you're being fooled.
Dave
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: <KingR44916@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 27, 2004 5:31 PM
Subject: front end
> anyone ever had a situtation where the front tires seem to be going in
> opposite directions when the car is pointed straight.had a wheel alignment
done .but
> no difference any opinions
From "Bluechipracing" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 19:33:20 -0500
Subject: Re: front end
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: <KingR44916@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 27, 2004 5:31 PM
Subject: front end
> anyone ever had a situtation where the front tires seem to be going in
> opposite directions when the car is pointed straight.had a wheel alignment
done .but
> no difference any opinions
!
From <satkinson at attglobal.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 20:29:20 -0500
Subject: Inner Panels
Simon Atkinson
1959 BT7
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 21:01:53 -0500
Subject: Re: Ebay , Wierd Experience, Thanks
Hey its Friday, give me some credit for trying.
Mark, (a very male-man) Isn't the Inglish language fun?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 26, 2004 8:58 PM
Subject: Ebay , Wierd Experience
> Just wanted to run this by my friends on the www to see if this is on
> the up and up.
> I purchased a part on Ebay, sent in my check , waiting, waiting,
> waiting, my check comes back to me stating undeliverable as addressed.
I
> send out an email to the company that listed the auction in R.I. and they
> said they don't know what happened, but I did send it to the right
address
> and they said it must be a post office problem. They suggested resending
> it.
>
> The address is very plainly written and correct.
> I can't figure out what is going on here?
>
> 1- Is there anyway this company can deny mail delivery to buy
themselves
> time to get a part back in stock in order to fulfill their sales
> obligations?
>
> 2-How can a post office not be able to find a legitimate business
> address?
>
> 3-Has this happened to anyone else lately?
>
> Any advise on my next step?
>
> Thanks
> Mark,
> 58-MGA
> 60-MGA
> 76-MGB
> 74.5-MGBGT
> 60-BT7
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 22:25:48 EST
Subject: Re: front end
Best--Michael
From Dave Carpenter <d.carpenter7 at verizon.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 22:38:00 -0500
Subject: Stainless bolts
www.Mcmaster.com
Dave
From JBHawkes at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 22:51:11 EST
Subject: Tonneau Cover Installation
TIA!
Jim Hawkes
BN2
From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 22:25:20 -0600
Subject: Re: Tonneau Cover Installation
1. Make it a little loose operating under the assumption that it will
shrink, thereby ensuring stretch
2. Make it tight operating under the assumption that it will stretch,
thereby ensuring it will shrink
Other will have more to add and maybe more experience, but first it is
probably best not to assume shrinkage or stretch, becaue of you guess wrong
you have the situation above, just go for a good snug fit.
Are the fasteners already mounted on your car, and you just need to put them
on the tonneau?
Assuming yes attach it at the back by the two chrome slidy under thingies,
now get some chalk, pull it snug to the spot you are fitting the fastner and
mark where it is with chalk (if you have kids sidewalk chalk should be
available) make sure when you pull it snug you are not pulling some other
attachment out of line, I beleive I made my hole with a Utility knife
(careful not to make long cuts!), but there are probaby more specialized
tools available. Helper to hold everthing is place is a bonus, although I
didn't have trouble doing it myself. I believe I did the under dash
attachment first (because I could work off the attachments of the slidy
under thingies on the back of the tonnaeu with a more or less straight pull
to check fit) and the sides last.
Worked fine on my BN1.
If the fasteners are not mounted to the body already I will defer to others
on the forum as to the best way to start.
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
----- Original Message -----
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 27, 2004 9:51 PM
Subject: Tonneau Cover Installation
> Just received a tonneau cover from Moss for my BN2. No directions
regarding
> installation, just a cover and bag of fasteners. Would appreciate any
> suggestions regarding installation - how to get the fasteners in the
correct place
> for a perfect, drum tight fit. Also installation of the fasteners - are
there
> punches available to cut the proper size holes for the two different style
> fasteners? And how do the fasteners go together? This will probably
become
> obvious once I tackle the job. But hate to learn on the new cover by the
old trial
> and error method. But that's where I seem to be. If they weren't so
> expensive, I would order two - one to learn on and one for the finished
product.
>
> TIA!
>
> Jim Hawkes
> BN2
From Charlie Frazer <cfrazer at ballmer.uoregon.edu>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 23:10:24 -0800
Subject: Air Cleaner
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2004 05:57:06 -0600
Subject: Re: Air Cleaner
ps. most folks clean them, paint with hammertone grey, install the correct
COOPERS decal, reinstall and hittem on down a healey trail.
Charlie Frazer wrote:
>
> I'm working on a BJ8 with 2" carbs.
> I have the original air cleaners, but it's hard to imagine what the skimpy
> steel strands inside would actually keep out of the engine.
> Do most people clean and reinstall the originals, buy replacement originals,
> or find a substitute?
> Thanks for your advice.
> Charlie Frazer
From KingR44916 at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2004 07:37:35 EST
Subject: exhaust
From "Roy Bowman" <ei_timo415 at earthlink.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2004 07:55:16 -0500
Subject: Powder-coating Exhaust Components
Could you all repeat your prior comments or give other thoughts
regarding this either on-list or directly to me ? Benefits? Dis-
advantages? Exactly what and how did you powder coat ?
Color ? Type of coating, such as hardness or sheen ? Inside
and outside ? Etc,...
Roy
Roy Bowman
ei_timo415@earthlink.net
Why Wait? Move to EarthLink.
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2004 08:07:04 -0500
Subject: Re: Air Cleaner
Thanks, Mark
> ps. most folks clean them, paint with hammertone grey, install the correct
COOPERS decal, reinstall and hittem on down a healey trail.
> Charlie Frazer wrote:
From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2004 08:15:56 -0500
Subject: Re: front end
Finally dawned on me (hey, I'm either slow or an engineer, O.K.?) that
"opposite directions" meant "not exactly straight ahead" Really couldn't
figure out exactly what was meant at first.
But yes, there's definitely an optical illusion in play there. A better way
for folks who want to "eyeball" their alignment: make your sight line from
the rear wheel to the front, low and close in.
Best,
--
John Miller
It's not hard to admit errors that are [only] cosmetically wrong.
-J.K. Galbraith
From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2004 09:04:13 -0500
Subject: Re: Tonneau Cover Installation
James Lea
Rockport Maine
1962 BT7 II
From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2004 09:35:48 -0500
Subject: Re: torque setting
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Ron Davies
To: Healeys
Sent: Thursday, February 26, 2004 11:50 PM
Subject: torque setting
Listers:
Anyone know offhand the torque setting for the four bolts holding the rear
hubs/splines on a 67 BJ8?
Thanks :-)
Ron
From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2004 10:34:41 -0500
Subject: Scuttle seals
James Lea
Rockport Maine
1962 BT7 II
From "James Shope" <healeymanjim at JoiMail.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2004 08:34:02 -0800
Subject: air cleaners
From "M Lempert" <mlempert at bellsouth.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2004 11:50:04 -0500
Subject: Re: Ebay , Weird Experience
I would suggest the following:
-Have the Post Office verify address
-Assess company credibility by their ebay feedback
-Look them up on http://www.anywho.com/
-Consider a PayPal account
Mike L.
From "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid at hotmail.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2004 17:32:20 +0000
Subject: AHCUSA Website Update
Just a note to let you know about some nice additions to the Austin-Healey
Club USA website, brought to you by Webmaster Brad Weldon.
If you go to the "magazine page" ( http://www.healey.org/magazine.shtml )
you'll notice some links in the next-to-last paragraph. These links are
also present in the main menu in the "Owning" sub-section of the "Resources"
section ( see menu on the left side of this page:
http://www.healey.org/model-big-overview.shtml ).
Anyway, these links take you to some articles that appeared a few years ago
in Austin-Healey Magazine, and that we believe have lasting value and
interest for members. Perhaps you recall these articles and would be
interested to review them again, or perhaps you've joined the club since the
time they were published and have not seen them before, or perhaps you're
not yet a member and don't know what you're missing!
Either way, we hope you will take a look at them and we hope that they will
help you to maintain and enjoy your Healey, the very purpose of the club!
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
100, 100M, Bugeye, Ski-Master
_________________________________________________________________
From Bob Tarwater <btarh2o at earthlink.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2004 11:38:21 -0600
Subject: Mike Lempert
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2004 09:40:02 -0800
Subject: Re: Scuttle seals
John Snyder
> Last year I purchased a pair of scuttle seals. I just opened the box in
> preparation for installation to find that I have two seals or the same
side
> instead of a right and a left. I don't remember where I bought them but
the
> instruction sheet says Healey Motor Works, Santa Barbara CA. but there is
no
> such company listed in the phonebook or on-line. Has this company gone
out of business? Should I have two different seals? Thanks, JL
>
> James Lea
> Rockport Maine
> 1962 BT7 II
From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2004 10:49:31 -0800 (PST)
Subject: re. Re: What grade bolts to use, again
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 17:30:47 -0600
From: dicksonr@uwm.edu
Subject: Re: What grade bolts to use, again
List,
....go down to your local hardware store and they
usually have a ton of bins full of stainless steel
nuts, bolts and washers. ..........Granted, the bolts
won't have the proper Brit markings but one could
always reface the head on the grinder. Maybe smack it
hard with a punch to leave the little circle in the
middle! ..............The nuts and washers
would work anyway and I have found them almost
indistinguishable from the originals.
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Get better spam protection with Yahoo! Mail.
http://antispam.yahoo.com/tools
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sasktel.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2004 12:51:35 -0600
Subject: Re: front end
From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2004 11:00:53 -0800 (PST)
Subject: re. footman's loop in trunk, Where?
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 08:12:20 -0600rom:
dicksonr@uwm.edu
Subject:
I have totally redone my trunk as well as put a new
trunk floor in.
I'm trying to find exactly where do I put the little
chrome footman's loop in the trunk. Is it to the left
of the latch brace? How far from the shroud edge
of the trunk floor is it. This is the piece that the
spare tire strap goes through. Thanks a lot in
advance!
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
63 BJ-7
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Get better spam protection with Yahoo! Mail.
http://antispam.yahoo.com/tools
From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2004 14:13:50 EST
Subject: Re: Powder-coating Exhaust Components
Rick
San Diego
From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2004 15:01:51 -0500
Subject: Tailpile
James Lea
Rockport Maine
1962 BT7 II
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/clocksmiths/vwp?.dir=/Healeys&.dnm=ricep
ipe.jpg&.src=gr&.view=t&.hires=t
From Mike MacLean <macleans at earthlink.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2004 12:41:35 -0800
Subject: Re: What grade bolts to use, again
dicksonr@uwm.edu wrote:
>List,
>An cheap and easy approach is to go down to your local hardware store and they
>usually have a ton of bins full of stainless steel nuts, bolts and washers.
>Problem is they are all UNC (course thread). However, my local podunk hardware
>
>store told me that they could special order UNF (fine thread) in just three
>days, any nut or bolt. Therefore, any hardware store should be able to do the
>same. Granted, the bolts won't have the proper Brit markings but one could
>always reface the head on the grinder. Maybe smack it hard with a punch to
>leave the little circle in the middle! Just a thought. The nuts and washers
>would work anyway and I have found them almost indistinguishable from the
>originals.
>Randy Dickson
>Healey Archaeologist
>
>63 BJ-7 Hopefully starts tommorrow!!!!
>
>
>
>
>
>Quoting Mike MacLean <macleans@earthlink.net>:
>
>
>
>>I had all the fasteners plated passive Zinc plated at Active Plating in
>>Santa Ana, California (714-547-0356) about 4 years ago for my Bugeye
>>restoration. They still look great. Active will charge about $50 to do
>>all your fasteners at one time, but you have to provide them clean and
>>free of rust. I guess that means a few nights at the wire wheel and a
>>few damaged fingers. I would not go with the cad plating as the
>>unacceptable frosty look to the finish does not last very long. Even
>>zinc plating does not last forever or you would not have to re-plate
>>your fasteners for a restoration. Zinc was original and is the best
>>option I can think of. Just not too many passive zinc platers due to
>>EPA restrictions.
>>Mike MacLean
>>56 BN2 under restoration
>>60 Bugeye with zinc plated fasteners
>>
>>Mark and kathy LaPierre wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>BTW, What is the problem with purchasing a couple of bags of the proper
>>>zinc bolts from one of our suppliers. Are these things that expensive or
>>>unobtainable? Are the bolt markings on the bolt heads not correct?
>>>
>>>Why is it necessary to reuse the old bolts? Replating sounds expensive
>>>and there's no guarantees on longevity. I realize these are simple
>>>questions but what am I missing.
>>>
>>>Mark
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>>Oh - and don't cad plate grade 8 fasteners. If you want to plate them,
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>so
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>>they are nice & shiny & won't rust - get them electroless nickel plated,
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>and
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>get the plater to bake them to prevent hydrogen embrittlement.
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2004 15:48:18 EST
Subject: Reading material
I'd be glad to send $10 plus shipping (US only) to someone that would send me
a stack of Austin Healey Magazines to fumble through for a couple of months.
Then I send them all back to you undamaged.
Please email my other address scott@cwoutdoors.com if you can oblige. I can
only check this AH address every so often. The ole wife said no more mag
subscriptions. I think a box of "borrowed" mags will fit under the radar.
Scott --
I've got every single issue from the beginning of the club to date. If you'll
let me know what time period you'd be interested in == Pre-magazine days
known as Healey Highlights and was newsletter of local Pacific Center; early
days
of Austin-Healey Magazine with horizontal format; period when I was editor in
early 80s; period when John Trifari was editor in mid 80s, or most recent
period with Reid Trummel as president of the reformed AHCUSA and now editor,
and
how many you want, I'll be happy to loan them to you (would even give you any
extra or duplicates I have laying around if you want them).
Give me your particulars -- how many issues, what period, and where to send,
and I'll get them off to you.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
co-author, Austin-Healey Restoration Guide
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2004 13:01:09 -0800
Subject: Re: Scuttle seals
John Snyder
> At the risk of sounding goofy, what are scuttle seals?
>
> Thanks
> tom
> >
> > There definitely is a left and a right seal. It is my understanding
that
> > Healey Motor Works in Santa Barbara went out of business years ago, and
> that Bill Bolton bought their remaining stock of scuttle seals. Bill may
still
> > have some left. Based on previous posts to the List, these are the only
> > seals that really fit. You can reach Bill at: TRICARB@aol.com.
> >
> > John Snyder
> >
> >
> > > Last year I purchased a pair of scuttle seals. I just opened the box
in
> > > preparation for installation to find that I have two seals or the same
> > side instead of a right and a left. I don't remember where I bought them
but
> > the instruction sheet says Healey Motor Works, Santa Barbara CA. but
there
> is no such company listed in the phonebook or on-line. Has this company
gone
> > out of business? Should I have two different seals? Thanks, JL
> > >
> > > James Lea
> > > Rockport Maine
> > > 1962 BT7 II
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2004 11:32:37 -0600
Subject: Re: Air Cleaner
From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2004 18:53:01 -0600
Subject: where does the ground strap go?
side of the bellhousing and where does it attach on the chassis? Too many
beers last night made for a difficult day today. Thanks in advance.
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
63 BJ-7
From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2004 19:09:18 -0600
Subject: bolts and "healey archaeologist" explained
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
63 BJ-7
Quoting joe mulqueen <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>:
> And this from a "Healey Archaeologist"?? You should
> drop that title because some people may start taking
> your advice as fact.
> Sincerely,
> Joe Mulqueen
>
> Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 17:30:47 -0600
> From: dicksonr@uwm.edu
> Subject: Re: What grade bolts to use, again
>
> List,
> ....go down to your local hardware store and they
> usually have a ton of bins full of stainless steel
> nuts, bolts and washers. ..........Granted, the bolts
> won't have the proper Brit markings but one could
> always reface the head on the grinder. Maybe smack it
> hard with a punch to leave the little circle in the
> middle! ..............The nuts and washers
> would work anyway and I have found them almost
> indistinguishable from the originals.
> Randy Dickson
> Healey Archaeologist
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2004 20:54:10 -0500
Subject: Re: where does the ground strap go?
Strap goes on the starter side and I believe one end of the strap goes under
the lower starter bolt head. The other end goes into the R main rail.
There is a welded nut there for it, maybe use a 3/8 x 5/8 x 24tpi bolt.
Keith Pennell
> Fellow listers,
> I'm still working on trying to get my engine started this weekend. Muy
buddy
> Karl and I got the gearbox in today after a three hour struggle. It did
not
> want to get past the firewall flange or whatever you call it. A great
deal of
> wiggling helped. ANyway, where does the grounding strap go? Is it on the
left
>
> side of the bellhousing and where does it attach on the chassis? Too many
> beers last night made for a difficult day today. Thanks in advance.
>
> Randy Dickson
> Healey Archaeologist
> 63 BJ-7
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2004 18:12:55 -0800
Subject: Re: where does the ground strap go?
We tried to warn you about the amount of beer necessary to install a Healey
gearbox - you have now discovered what we all have - the next day can be a
bear!
The ground strap is installed on the passeger side - there is a captive nut
welded on the inside of the right frame rail for this, just aft of the
clutch pipe mounting tab also welded to the frame. The other end goes under
the bell-house to engine plate bolt that is just under the lower starter
bolt.
I suggest strongly that you ensure that there is a good ground path here -
no paint under the ground strap ends, nice clean bolt threads, maybe even a
smear of dielectric grease - otherwise your engine (read starter) could
ground through the choke cables which will quickly fry and cause much more
beer to be consumed.
Let us know when it runs - in the interest of archaeolgy, of course!
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BT7 tri-carb
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2004 4:53 PM
Subject: where does the ground strap go?
Fellow listers,
I'm still working on trying to get my engine started this weekend. Muy
buddy
Karl and I got the gearbox in today after a three hour struggle. It did not
want to get past the firewall flange or whatever you call it. A great deal
of
wiggling helped. ANyway, where does the grounding strap go? Is it on the
left
side of the bellhousing and where does it attach on the chassis? Too many
beers last night made for a difficult day today. Thanks in advance.
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
63 BJ-7
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2004 20:50:33 -0800
Subject: Conflicted ...
Problem is, I suspect I'll get the same part from any of the usual
suppliers. Anybody know a source for NOS Al-bodied master
cylinders for a BJ8? I wouldn't be surprised that a lot of the
new replacement parts are like this (steel/iron instead of Al, different
color, heavier, but otherwise usable).
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
From <gregwilkinson at adelphia.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 1:56:44 -0500
Subject: Re: Conflicted ...
>
> From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
> Date: 2004/02/28 Sat PM 11:50:33 EST
> To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Conflicted ...
>
> Just received a new brake master cylinder I bought (on sale) from
> Victoria British. It's Lucas brand (thought they only made electrical
> stuff ... seen a few Lucas parts lately) and it looks like a drop-in
> replacement for the original. The problem is it's cast iron instead of
> the original aluminum, quite a bit heavier, and somewhat dissimilar in
> shape and appearance. It looks decent--quality-wise--but I'm not
> totally happy with it.
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 19:34:29 +1100
Subject: Re: Conflicted ...
Reminds me of that other old joke...
Did you know that Lucas also produced vacuum cleaners? It seems that they
were the only Lucas products that didn't suck....
: )
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: <gregwilkinson@adelphia.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 29, 2004 5:56 PM
Subject: Re: Conflicted ...
> Seems that Lucas wasn't satisfied keeping your car from running. Now they
don't want it to stop. ;~)
>
> >
> > From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
> > Date: 2004/02/28 Sat PM 11:50:33 EST
> > To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Subject: Conflicted ...
> >
> > Just received a new brake master cylinder I bought (on sale) from
> > Victoria British. It's Lucas brand (thought they only made electrical
> > stuff ... seen a few Lucas parts lately) and it looks like a drop-in
> > replacement for the original. The problem is it's cast iron instead of
> > the original aluminum, quite a bit heavier, and somewhat dissimilar in
> > shape and appearance. It looks decent--quality-wise--but I'm not
> > totally happy with it.
From Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 06:32:44 -0500
Subject: Re: Conflicted ...
Girling has been part of Lucas for many years - since the 40's? Lucas
has been owned by TRW since 1999.
Bob Haskell
Bob Spidell wrote:
> Just received a new brake master cylinder I bought (on sale) from
> Victoria British. It's Lucas brand (thought they only made electrical
> stuff ... seen a few Lucas parts lately) and it looks like a drop-in
> replacement for the original. The problem is it's cast iron instead of
> the original aluminum, quite a bit heavier, and somewhat dissimilar in
> shape and appearance. It looks decent--quality-wise--but I'm not
> totally happy with it.
From "Adrian Boelen" <boelena at sympatico.ca>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 09:27:54 -0500
Subject: RE: UK Advise Sought
Bon Voyage,
Adrian Boelen
HBJL/38125
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of ahy3000@comcast.net
Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2004 8:46 AM
To: Austin Healey
Subject: UK Advise Sought
UK Listers,
My wife and I are planning a trip to Bury St Edmond in the
London/Cambridge (East Anglia area?) in early April. We have a
son-in-law flying F15s out of Lakenheath. I've read about a Transport
Museum in Duxford that sounds interesting. Can you recommend any other
sights that would be of interest to a Healey owner?
Other interests include kayaking and Royal Rangers (a scouting program).
TIA
BW
--
Burt Weiner
'63 BJ7
HBJ7L/23582
ahy3000@comcast.net
From jbpate at attglobal.net
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 09:32:21 -0500
Subject: Fuel pump
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 09:57:40 -0600
Subject: 3.54 (lempert) finally installed on BN6
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 11:01:49 EST
Subject: Looking for my Healey 100/Six
Therefore, I am passing this along to our national Healey List in hopes of
finding someone on the West Coast that may be of help to you.
**********
Listers: Edgard (a member of the Dutch Healey Owners Club) is searching for
information on his BN6-L/3517 that has a build date of October 1958 and is
Black with Red trim. He believes that someone from the LA or Monterey area may
be
able to help him. He also requests any former AH dealers in LA in 1959-1960,
but I doubt if that would be of any help over forty years later. I know this
is a long shot, but let's give it a try anyway. Thanks.
Rudy Streng
Lenoir, NC
100/Six National Registrar
From Rebeltown at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 11:09:27 EST
Subject: Re: 3.54 (lempert) finally installed on BN6
Gary Shunk '67 BJ8 #38427 N.J.
From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 11:12:35 -0500
Subject: Re: Looking for my Healey 100/Six
Good luck!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: CAWS52803@aol.com
To: edgard.bijvoet@planet.nl
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, February 29, 2004 11:01 AM
Subject: Looking for my Healey 100/Six
Dear Edgard:
Sorry I haven't responded sooner, but computer problems have delayed my
response to you. I have searched my files and do not have your car listed
in my
100/Six Registry.
Therefore, I am passing this along to our national Healey List in hopes of
finding someone on the West Coast that may be of help to you.
**********
Listers: Edgard (a member of the Dutch Healey Owners Club) is searching for
information on his BN6-L/3517 that has a build date of October 1958 and is
Black with Red trim. He believes that someone from the LA or Monterey area
may be
able to help him. He also requests any former AH dealers in LA in
1959-1960,
but I doubt if that would be of any help over forty years later. I know
this
is a long shot, but let's give it a try anyway. Thanks.
Rudy Streng
Lenoir, NC
100/Six National Registrar
From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 11:58:28 -0500
Subject: Spin-on oil filter adapter
A few days ago, Graham Vink mentioned that he had experienced a structural
failure of the Moss spin-on oil filter adapter while driving, and consequent
zero oil pressure. In my correspondence with Graham, I learned that the
adapter that failed was the earlier style that has a right-angle head and
holds the spin-on filter in the same orientation as the original canister
filter. Most of the adapters I have seen recently hold the filter
perpendicular to the block.
I have the right-angle head adapter, and it has been installed on my BJ8 since
1987 and 60K miles without any problem, but Graham's experience concerns me.
Has anyone else had problems with this type of adapter?
Thanks,
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
From <BritCarWeek at arczip.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 12:05:41 -0500
Subject: British Car Week - Spring Wakeup
This is a pre-spring wakeup call for all British car drivers. I'm writing this
letter to let you all know that the 8th Annual British Car Week is alive and
well, especially if you enjoy anything having to do with British cars! Yes
that's right, if you happen to be one of the fortunate people who enjoys the
British car hobby and proudly maintains and drives a classic British car of
any make, model, or year, you have exactly what it takes to be a part of this
heightened awareness week. You're already an important part of the British car
hobby, and WE NEED YOU to help spread awareness of these truly awesome
machines.
No, there are no special Hallmark cards to send to your friends and relatives,
and you probably won't see it printed on the calendar hanging in your kitchen,
but hopefully any one of your British car clubs has been actively supporting
this once per year event. They (the club staff) are capable of helping spread
the word to large numbers by posting the information in their newsletters or
Internet web sites, and their help is essential to the wellness of our aging
hobby. By celebrating the Eighth Annual British Car "Drivers" Week throughout
the roads and byways of your community, no matter where you live, you are
helping to spread awareness of these historic machines.
This year we are celebrating the eighth driving season since columnist Peter
Egan of Road & Track Magazine asked a question to his readers in an article
titled "Seldom Seen Cars" - why doesn't he see classic sports cars on the
roads anymore? This question was passed from computer to computer server to
many other computers via the Internet, and echoed throughout the vast number
of British car communications avenues. British car hobbyists from all over the
world quickly came to the calling of the author's plea. As an impressive team
effort, each of those people did what they could to help increase awareness of
our cars. Letters were written, dates were posted in club newsletters, and
within a very short time, people from all over the world were driving their
British cars in their communities to help remind their locals that old classic
British cars are still eagerly entertaining their drivers after all these
years. As a result of all this, British Car Week was born!
In my own home town, I not only see an increase of British cars on the roads
during British Car Week, but I've also noticed an increase of other European
marque's tooling around as well. Is this due to my active imagination or are
other clubs doing the same? I surely hope they are, and I am going to make
sure that my own British car is proudly representing the British car hobby. A
little bit of competition is good, and this kind of thing will certainly help
percolate the enthusiasm of those who might have a project in the works. I
know from my own experience that when I see another classic car on the road,
whether it's French, Italian, American, or German, it provides me with the
enthusiasm we all relish. This much needed enthusiasm fuels the driving force
needed to keep our cars on the road instead of rotting away in a dark corner.
If any of you belong to a club that isn't aware of British Car Week, or isn't
actively partaking in this fulfilling annual event, please remind them and
reassure them of how important it is to join forces and help spread the word.
Whether it's a drive around the block or an enjoyable day drive to the
country, or better yet planning a joyful drive with a group of your British
car club friends, it is an opportunity for some unsuspecting someone to
experience one of these unique and "seldom seen" automobiles from the past. If
it sparks an interest, which I know it will, any number of people may someday
buy a British car to maintain and enjoy on a regular basis. They will also
most likely join a club, buy some parts, book, magazine, regalia, and any
number of items that we sometimes take for granted. They will ultimately
become a valuable part of our hobby, helping to assure the continued support
and the preservation of our special cars.
Hopefully when Peter Egan looks out his window during this May 22 to 30, 2004
he will notice something different in his own neighborhood. Who knows, maybe
he's going to be joining forces with the rest of us to celebrate British Car
Week!
So if you're one of those people who has what it takes, grab your goggles and
driving gloves, and be sure to top-off those dashpots! It's time to have some
fun!!
See you on the road......
Scott Helms
www.britishcarweek.org
Order your British Car Week stickers while supplies last
http://users.arczip.com/zntech/logo.html
From Drtrite at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 12:19:34 EST
Subject: Re: 3.54 (lempert) finally installed on BN6
<< I too have purchased the Lempert (rear end) gear set >>
Not in NJ, but did a fine job on my car. Fred Crowley. Lewisville,TX AMMCO.
Check the Tech tips on the <A HREF="www.ntahc.org">NTAHC.ORG</A> web site. He
put all new bearings in and it sure ran nice on the way home.
Don
From "David" <dcrawfor at san.rr.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 21:28:16 -0800
Subject: Mystery car?
I wrote to John Harper - UK Register, regarding my '54 BN1 that
I purchased from Wilson Motor Co. in Washington, MO, on 5/21/03.
It appeared on the Pink Slip that the prior owner was Michael J. Allan
of Kent, Washington. I wrote to Mr. Allan for information but never
received a reply.
The VIN # is 158154
Engine # is 1B214216M
Body # is 48644184
The car is painted Old English White. Seats are black with white piping.
*
Mr. Harper responded:
Dear David
I have looked up our database and am sorry to say that we do not have
an entry for your 100. However we do have details of the car built one
before yours as follows
158144 1B 213244M 48644153
The Engine number is correct. The body number is in the same batch, 4864
but there is nothing unusual in that your body number is 4184 and previous
car off the production line was body number 4153. Bodies from Jensen were
not necessarily sent down the Longbridge production line in the order that
they
were made.
I would estimate that your car was built on or about the 26th June 1954.
However a BMIHT certificate would confirm this.
As I say we do not have your 100 on record but with enquires such as yours
we like to make a record and if any previous owner should contact us we would
let you know but I hasten to add not let him or her have your personal details
without your permission.
If you would like us to do this please complete our registration form at:
http://www.jharper.demon.co.uk/register.htm
All the best,
John Harper
*
Anyone know anything about the history of my car? If so, please respond off
list.
Thanks in advance!
David C
'54 BN1
San Diego, CA
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 11:34:32 -0600
Subject: Re: 3.54 (lempert) finally installed on BN6
From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 12:38:12 -0500
Subject: Paging Jerry Walton
Thanks,
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 13:04:37 -0500
Subject: Re: Mystery car?
Wouldn't it have been a good thing for our hobby if there had been a place
where the consecutive ownership history of all Healeys could have been
documented and preserved for the benefit of future owners like David?
Has anyone else noticed how frequently owners pop up on the list looking for
history on their Healey? As the keeper of the BJ8 registry, I can tell you
that most people who contact me for information are looking for the previous
owners, especially those in Europe who own cars that used to live in the
States.
Well, this is to let you know that the BJ8 registry is attempting to document
and preserve for posterity as much of the individual ownership history of each
BJ8 as is still available. This is done as a service to future owners. I
encourage every Healey owner to try to document the history of his/her car in
as much detail as possible, if not for yourself, then for those who will own
the car in the future. Much of the historical information that is available
now will not be available in future years (as I stated earlier, California
only keeps inactive vehicle registration records for 4 years, then they are
destroyed). If you are interested in how to go about finding out the history
of your car from DMV records, please contact me. Those of us in North
Carolina are especially fortunate.
Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: David
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, March 01, 2004 12:28 AM
Subject: Mystery car?
Dear Listers,
I wrote to John Harper - UK Register, regarding my '54 BN1 that
I purchased from Wilson Motor Co. in Washington, MO, on 5/21/03.
It appeared on the Pink Slip that the prior owner was Michael J. Allan
of Kent, Washington. I wrote to Mr. Allan for information but never
received a reply.
The VIN # is 158154
Engine # is 1B214216M
Body # is 48644184
The car is painted Old English White. Seats are black with white piping.
*
Mr. Harper responded:
Dear David
I have looked up our database and am sorry to say that we do not have
an entry for your 100. However we do have details of the car built one
before yours as follows
158144 1B 213244M 48644153
The Engine number is correct. The body number is in the same batch, 4864
but there is nothing unusual in that your body number is 4184 and previous
car off the production line was body number 4153. Bodies from Jensen were
not necessarily sent down the Longbridge production line in the order that
they
were made.
I would estimate that your car was built on or about the 26th June 1954.
However a BMIHT certificate would confirm this.
As I say we do not have your 100 on record but with enquires such as yours
we like to make a record and if any previous owner should contact us we
would
let you know but I hasten to add not let him or her have your personal
details
without your permission.
If you would like us to do this please complete our registration form at:
http://www.jharper.demon.co.uk/register.htm
All the best,
John Harper
*
Anyone know anything about the history of my car? If so, please respond off
list.
Thanks in advance!
David C
'54 BN1
San Diego, CA
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 11:17:15 -0700
Subject: Re: 3.54 (lempert) finally installed on BN6
I don't know if Jerry would trust all AAMCO shops or just the one he
went to. There are AAMCO shops in NJ. Maybe someone on the list can shed
some light on this. I personally would never have considered my local
AAMCO shop for Healey work.
Dave Russell
BN2
Rebeltown@aol.com wrote:
> Jerry, I too have purchased the Lempert (rear end) gear set and have
> procrastinated even longer than you have. I'm not sure who I want or trust
>to install
> the gears. If someone can suggest a shop in NJ area that they have experience
> with I would probably get off my backside and get it done...
>
>
> Gary Shunk '67 BJ8 #38427 N.J.
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 11:27:50 -0700
Subject: Re: 3.54 (lempert) finally installed on BN6
My BN2 comes out as 68 at 2500 & 82 at 3000. You are sure right on the
fun part. I love cruising fast with the low engine rpm.
Dave Russell
BN2
Jerry Wall wrote:
> WOW !! you talk about DADDY LONGLEGS or let's get ready for a road
> trip. i picked up the BN6 at fred crowley's aamco transmission shop
> in lewisville, tx yesterday. after a year or more procrastination, i
> finally decided to let fred set up the 3.54 and take care of some
> other related rear axle matters. i was also going to have him
> install the roller rocker assembly i purchased from him several years
> ago, however, the lift is too high without a slight relief on the
> block for exhaust valve clearance. so this item is still on hold
> until it is necessary to pull the head. i haven't yet had a chance to
> run checks on the measured mile markers on the interstate although
> fred computed the mph at various rpm's based upon 28% OD and 175x15
> michelin radials and we came up with 75 at 2500 and almost 85 at
> 3000. i was running between 2500 and 3000 on the way home on the 190
> tollroad. super smooth -- what a cruiser !! happy healeying, jerry
> wall
From "Adrian Boelen" <boelena at sympatico.ca>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 13:42:22 -0500
Subject: RE: Old Car (Not Healey)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Scott Willis
Sent: Thursday, February 26, 2004 10:10 PM
To: Brad Weldon 55BN1; Randolph Cooper; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Old Car (Not Healey)
THANK YOU!!
I always wanted to know what that car was. I have not seen the movie in
years but I loved watching Grace rumble through the hills in that
unadentifiable car.
Cheers,
S
Mashed BN7
From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Rebeltown@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 12:46:07 -0600
Subject: Re: 3.54 (lempert) finally installed on BN6
> Gary,
>
> I don't know if Jerry would trust all AAMCO shops or just the one he
> went to. There are AAMCO shops in NJ. Maybe someone on the list can shed
> some light on this. I personally would never have considered my local
> AAMCO shop for Healey work.
>
> Dave Russell
> BN2
>
> Rebeltown@aol.com wrote:
> > Jerry, I too have purchased the Lempert (rear end) gear set and have
> > procrastinated even longer than you have. I'm not sure who I want or
trust to install
> > the gears. If someone can suggest a shop in NJ area that they have
experience
> > with I would probably get off my backside and get it done...
> >
> >
> > Gary Shunk '67 BJ8 #38427 N.J.
From <gregwilkinson at adelphia.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Rebeltown@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 13:52:40 -0500
Subject: Rear anti-sway bar
Thanks,
Greg
67 BJ8
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Rebeltown@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 19:12:09 +0000
Subject: Meeting notice
From John Harper <AH at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Rebeltown@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 19:29:45 +0000
Subject: Re: Mystery car?
This previous owner recording, is what we have been doing on the UK 100
Register for many years. The problem is that most new registrations come
from owners who do not know the history themselves. We try to help where
we can but as you know information is only provided by the owners
themselves. There is no central register available to us. In 1974 in the
UK all vehicle registration were centralised into the Driver and
Vehicle Licensing Centre in Swansea, Wales. Prior to this Vehicle
Registration was the responsibility of Counties or Major Cities.
During the transfer of information most records of vehicles then not
currently licensed were destroyed. Even those that were transferred did
not carry a full owner history and most of this was lost. Therefore, as
I say, we can only record what owners have researched and told us. From
what I read the situation appears to be similar in the States.
So, as we cannot turn the clock back, all of us who are running
registers need to record and preserve everything that comes our way. In
my book it goes with the job.
All the best
>
>Wouldn't it have been a good thing for our hobby if there had been a place
>where the consecutive ownership history of all Healeys could have been
>documented and preserved for the benefit of future owners like David?
>
>Has anyone else noticed how frequently owners pop up on the list looking for
>history on their Healey? As the keeper of the BJ8 registry, I can tell you
>that most people who contact me for information are looking for the previous
>owners, especially those in Europe who own cars that used to live in the
>States.
>
>Well, this is to let you know that the BJ8 registry is attempting to document
>and preserve for posterity as much of the individual ownership history of each
>BJ8 as is still available. This is done as a service to future owners. I
>encourage every Healey owner to try to document the history of his/her car in
>as much detail as possible, if not for yourself, then for those who will own
>the car in the future. Much of the historical information that is available
>now will not be available in future years (as I stated earlier, California
>only keeps inactive vehicle registration records for 4 years, then they are
>destroyed). If you are interested in how to go about finding out the history
>of your car from DMV records, please contact me. Those of us in North
>Carolina are especially fortunate.
>
>Happy Healeying!
>Steve Byers
>HBJ8L/36666
>BJ8 Registry
>Havelock, NC
>
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
> From: David
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Sent: Monday, March 01, 2004 12:28 AM
> Subject: Mystery car?
>
>
> Dear Listers,
>
>
>
> I wrote to John Harper - UK Register, regarding my '54 BN1 that
>
> I purchased from Wilson Motor Co. in Washington, MO, on 5/21/03.
>
> It appeared on the Pink Slip that the prior owner was Michael J. Allan
>
> of Kent, Washington. I wrote to Mr. Allan for information but never
>
> received a reply.
>
>
> The VIN # is 158154
> Engine # is 1B214216M
> Body # is 48644184
> The car is painted Old English White. Seats are black with white piping.
>
>
>
> *
>
>
>
> Mr. Harper responded:
>
>
>
> Dear David
>
> I have looked up our database and am sorry to say that we do not have
>
> an entry for your 100. However we do have details of the car built one
>
> before yours as follows
>
> 158144 1B 213244M 48644153
>
>
> The Engine number is correct. The body number is in the same batch, 4864
>
> but there is nothing unusual in that your body number is 4184 and previous
>
> car off the production line was body number 4153. Bodies from Jensen were
>
> not necessarily sent down the Longbridge production line in the order that
> they
>
> were made.
>
> I would estimate that your car was built on or about the 26th June 1954.
>
> However a BMIHT certificate would confirm this.
>
> As I say we do not have your 100 on record but with enquires such as yours
>
> we like to make a record and if any previous owner should contact us we
>would
>
> let you know but I hasten to add not let him or her have your personal
>details
>
> without your permission.
>
> If you would like us to do this please complete our registration form at:
>
>
>
> http://www.jharper.demon.co.uk/register.htm
>
>
>
> All the best,
>
>
>
> John Harper
>
>
>
> *
>
>
>
> Anyone know anything about the history of my car? If so, please respond off
> list.
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
>
>
> David C
>
> '54 BN1
>
> San Diego, CA
>
--
John Harper
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Rebeltown@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 11:29:18 -0800
Subject: Re: Spin-on oil filter adapter
I also have the earlier right-angle style spin-on filter adapter from Moss
on my BJ8, installed approximately 1987 as well. I think I may even have
the original packaging somewhere - I'll have to have a look.
The car is currently undergoing a full restoration, including it's 2nd
engine re-build - when the engine was dismantled at approx. 120K miles a
couple of months ago, it was found to be in excellent condition, and there
were no apparent problems with the filter adapter. It will go right back
on - I'll have a good close look at at again as it is assembled.
If you're worried about it, simply carry all the bits that were removed with
you in the boot, along with an original type filter, as I did for years
before finally leaving it at home the last little while. Rule of thumb with
old British cars, if you're actually carrying the spare part, you will
probably never need it!
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BT7 tri-carb
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 29, 2004 8:58 AM
Subject: Spin-on oil filter adapter
Hello, Healeyphiles -
A few days ago, Graham Vink mentioned that he had experienced a structural
failure of the Moss spin-on oil filter adapter while driving, and consequent
zero oil pressure. In my correspondence with Graham, I learned that the
adapter that failed was the earlier style that has a right-angle head and
holds the spin-on filter in the same orientation as the original canister
filter. Most of the adapters I have seen recently hold the filter
perpendicular to the block.
I have the right-angle head adapter, and it has been installed on my BJ8
since
1987 and 60K miles without any problem, but Graham's experience concerns me.
Has anyone else had problems with this type of adapter?
Thanks,
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
From Douglas W Flagg <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Rebeltown@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 14:35:43 -0500
Subject: Re:BN2
Happy Healeying,
Doug
'56 BN2
________________________________________________________________
The best thing to hit the Internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the Web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
From Drtrite at aol.com
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Rebeltown@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 14:42:30 EST
Subject: Re: 3.54 (lempert) finally installed on BN6
<< would trust all AAMCO shops >>
I don't think he would. Don't get this blown all out of proportion!.
Fred Crowley is a member of NTAHC and owns a AMMCO shop. Many of you know
Fred from his vintage racing. So...if you have a Healey guy with a tranny shop
and he can do the work. Go for it.
Don
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Rebeltown@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 11:43:46 -0600
Subject: Re: 3.54 (lempert) finally installed on BN6
From Joseph Smathers <healey27 at mindspring.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Rebeltown@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 14:56:27 -0500
Subject: Harrison Ford - Healey
Joe
1955 100
1960 3000
From "MIKE H MCMULLEN" <mhmcmullen at msn.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Rebeltown@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 12:03:39 -0800
Subject: Dip Stick
From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Rebeltown@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 15:14:28 -0500
Subject: Re: Mystery car?
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
To: "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 29, 2004 2:29 PM
Subject: Re: Mystery car?
| Steve
|
| This previous owner recording, is what we have been doing on the UK 100
| Register for many years. The problem is that most new registrations come
| from owners who do not know the history themselves. We try to help where
| we can but as you know information is only provided by the owners
| themselves.
From MBran89793 at aol.com
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Rebeltown@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 16:13:35 EST
Subject: Re: Harrison Ford - Healey
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
Concours Committee Member
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Rebeltown@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 16:38:09 EST
Subject: Re: 3.54 (lempert) finally installed on BN6
But if you met Fred Crowley you would.
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Rebeltown@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 17:42:26 -0500
Subject: Re: Mystery car?
I wrote to the NC DMV in Raleigh and for only 4 bucks ($5 now) got a complete
copy of everything they had in the file on my car, going back through 7 owners
to the original -- copies of all titles, liens, annual registrations, and
including the original transfer paperwork between Ship & Shore Motors in
Florida, Hambro in New Jersey, and the original dealer, Harmon-Rowland in
Raleigh. With that information, I was able to track down all 7 previous
owners and learned that my BJ8 was stolen the same day it was bought new by
the original owner (fortunately recovered later the same day).
The point is (depending on the state) the historical information is available
on the cars if you ask for it. North Carolina has the records back to 1964,
but who knows if next year they'll decide to purge their files like California
and it'll all be gone forever. I have been able to help some owners get the
records from Florida, Maryland, Virginia, and Tennessee. Some other states
have told me they either don't have the records beyond 2 (Georgia), 4
(California), 10 (Virginia), or 12 years (Florida) because they have purged
their files, or won't release names/addresses of previous owners in any event
(Oregon, South Dakota). Get it while the getting is good!
John H: Over here, it's possible to acquire and document the history of cars
using sources other than the current owner, and I'm trying to use all those
resources to document as much history on each BJ8 as possible. It's a big
task for one person to do, but much easier if the owners will help.
Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
----- Original Message -----
From: Healeyolic
To: John Harper ; BJ8Healeys
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, February 29, 2004 3:14 PM
Subject: Re: Mystery car?
I don't know if we could ever get a complete ownership profile of our cars.
Mine has probably had 300-400 owners (he said tongue in cheek) if I were to
believe everyone who has told me that "I used to own one" or "my friend
owned one" or "my uncle, cousin, old girlfriends brothers uncles cousins
father knew someone who had one"
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
To: "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 29, 2004 2:29 PM
Subject: Re: Mystery car?
| Steve
|
| This previous owner recording, is what we have been doing on the UK 100
| Register for many years. The problem is that most new registrations come
| from owners who do not know the history themselves. We try to help where
| we can but as you know information is only provided by the owners
| themselves.
From Rick Neville <healeyrick at yahoo.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Rebeltown@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 14:49:35 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Aaah, Spring !
Happy Healeying,
Rick
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Get better spam protection with Yahoo! Mail.
http://antispam.yahoo.com/tools
From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Rebeltown@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 17:03:48 -0600
Subject: didn't get to start engine, possible wiring problems, need
the door to get let in. To top it all off, yesterday he laid down on our spare
bed while wearing fresh Healey grease. My fiance spent $15 at the laundromat
cleaning everything. She is not happy and I undoubtedly will be paying the
price for awhile. Anyway, as I stated yesterday, we did get the gearbox in
after three or so hours, plus half an hour or so to clean up all of the blood.
I was positioned above the gearbox standing inside of the car with a couple of
ropes lacshed around the box and Karl was on the cold floor bench-pressing the
gearbox up. Once we hit upon this technique it didn't take long to get the
gearbox in. I had so many small problems that we never even did get around to
trying to start the engine. Just one small problem after another. I did get
the hot wire coming up from the batt. (neg) to the starter selenoid and ground
wire attached. I could push the little button on the selenoid and turn the
motor over fine.
I jumped the ignition wires together under the dash but nothing happened. It
turned out that the wires to the ign. were not hot. I have a new harness too
from AH Spares. Therefore, I traced the wires to the fusebox, everything looked
fine. Traced wires to the voltage regulator and this is where I think there is
a problem. I checked the wiring diagram in the shop manual and the colors in
my harness and the colors on the schematic do not quite jive. My harness has 9
wires at the voltage reg.
1. brown with a blue stripe (fat),
2. brown (fat)
3. brown (thin)
4. yellow (fat)
5. yellow (thin)
6. yellow with green strip
7, 8. black with ground loop
9. black
I almost went blind looking at this but the colors in the shop manual diagram
are brown/green, brown/yellow, brown/yellow, brown, brown, brown, brown, black,
black, black,
My question is: When looking right at the voltage regulator on the bulkhead,
reading left to right, what is the correct order for these wires in my harness
to attach to the voltage regulator?
That is, E, D, WL, F, B.
Lastly, I think that I have it figured out, but which wires go to the starter
button and which to the ign. key switch?
Thanks a lot in advance!!!!!!
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
63 BJ-7
Sturgeon Bay, WI.
From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Rebeltown@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 19:09:33 -0500
Subject: Re: Spin-on oil filter adapter
Cheers!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Earl Kagna
To: BJ8Healeys ; Healey List
Sent: Sunday, February 29, 2004 2:29 PM
Subject: Re: Spin-on oil filter adapter
Steve:
I also have the earlier right-angle style spin-on filter adapter from Moss
on my BJ8, installed approximately 1987 as well. I think I may even have
the original packaging somewhere - I'll have to have a look.
The car is currently undergoing a full restoration, including it's 2nd
engine re-build - when the engine was dismantled at approx. 120K miles a
couple of months ago, it was found to be in excellent condition, and there
were no apparent problems with the filter adapter. It will go right back
on - I'll have a good close look at at again as it is assembled.
If you're worried about it, simply carry all the bits that were removed
with
you in the boot, along with an original type filter, as I did for years
before finally leaving it at home the last little while. Rule of thumb
with
old British cars, if you're actually carrying the spare part, you will
probably never need it!
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BT7 tri-carb
BJ8
From Meemeb at aol.com
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Rebeltown@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 19:36:27 EST
Subject: BJ8 Windshield Bracket
From Rick Neville <healeyrick at yahoo.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <Rebeltown@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 16:36:34 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Screwed on the Internet
Unhappy Healeying,
Rick
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Get better spam protection with Yahoo! Mail.
http://antispam.yahoo.com/tools
From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 18:41:27 -0600
Subject: Re: Mystery car?
> John S: Some can, some can't, but you don't know unless you try.
>
> I wrote to the NC DMV in Raleigh and for only 4 bucks ($5 now) got a
complete
> copy of everything they had in the file on my car, going back through 7
owners
> to the original -- copies of all titles, liens, annual registrations, and
> including the original transfer paperwork between Ship & Shore Motors in
> Florida, Hambro in New Jersey, and the original dealer, Harmon-Rowland in
> Raleigh. With that information, I was able to track down all 7 previous
> owners and learned that my BJ8 was stolen the same day it was bought new
by
> the original owner (fortunately recovered later the same day).
>
> The point is (depending on the state) the historical information is
available
> on the cars if you ask for it. North Carolina has the records back to
1964,
> but who knows if next year they'll decide to purge their files like
California
> and it'll all be gone forever. I have been able to help some owners get
the
> records from Florida, Maryland, Virginia, and Tennessee. Some other
states
> have told me they either don't have the records beyond 2 (Georgia), 4
> (California), 10 (Virginia), or 12 years (Florida) because they have
purged
> their files, or won't release names/addresses of previous owners in any
event
> (Oregon, South Dakota). Get it while the getting is good!
>
> John H: Over here, it's possible to acquire and document the history of
cars
> using sources other than the current owner, and I'm trying to use all
those
> resources to document as much history on each BJ8 as possible. It's a big
> task for one person to do, but much easier if the owners will help.
>
>
> Happy Healeying!
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Healeyolic
> To: John Harper ; BJ8Healeys
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Sent: Sunday, February 29, 2004 3:14 PM
> Subject: Re: Mystery car?
>
>
> I don't know if we could ever get a complete ownership profile of our
cars.
> Mine has probably had 300-400 owners (he said tongue in cheek) if I were
to
> believe everyone who has told me that "I used to own one" or "my friend
> owned one" or "my uncle, cousin, old girlfriends brothers uncles cousins
> father knew someone who had one"
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
> To: "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, February 29, 2004 2:29 PM
> Subject: Re: Mystery car?
>
>
> | Steve
> |
> | This previous owner recording, is what we have been doing on the UK
100
> | Register for many years. The problem is that most new registrations
come
> | from owners who do not know the history themselves. We try to help
where
> | we can but as you know information is only provided by the owners
> | themselves.
From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Rick Neville" <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "spridgets"
Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 18:45:23 -0600
Subject: Screwed on the Internet
> After my paean to Spring, you'd probably think all is
> just swell in Healeyland. Not so, Healey friends.
> You may remember I purchased a Healey-Jamaican over
> the internet a few months ago. The bottom line is I
> was defrauded and I'm probably out $2,500. The car was
> advertised on eBay. Because of what I do for a
> living, I tend not to be the most trusting of people,
> but I let my guard down in this case and was taken to
> the cleaners. I don't want to go into details, because
> it's painful, but I've seen lots of postings from
> people who say they've had nothing but great
> experiences on eBay. Maybe so, but there's a lot of
> jerks out there waiting to rip you off. Nobody's
> going hungry in my household over this. Frankly, I
> don't have any words of advice for you how to avoid
> getting taken. Maybe one, if you use a Discover card
> on PayPal, they won't reimburse you for non-delivery
> of an item, although I understand Visa and Mastercard
> will (ask me how I know, and double check for yourself
> to make sure) Personally, this is the last time I'll
> try to buy anything over the internet. I'm pretty
> upset and have been kicking my own butt over this,
> because my experiences with people in the car hobby
> over the years has been overwhelmingly positive and
> it's not fun having to try to track somebody down over
> something you do for a hobby. Bottom line, if you
> can't afford to lose the money, don't buy unless you
> have the goods in your hot little hands.
>
> Unhappy Healeying,
> Rick
From "Healey Bruce" <healeybruce at adelphia.net>
From: "Rick Neville" <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "spridgets"
Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 17:07:24 -0800
Subject: Paging Bill Bolton
Bruce Steele
1960 BN7
Brea, CA
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Rick Neville" <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "spridgets"
Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 17:42:38 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: 3.54 (lempert) finally installed on BN6
Can you hear any gear whine with Fred's installation?
Thanks,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- Drtrite@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 2/29/04 10:11:01 AM Central
> Standard Time,
> Rebeltown@aol.com writes:
>
> << I too have purchased the Lempert (rear end) gear
> set >>
>
> Not in NJ, but did a fine job on my car. Fred
> Crowley. Lewisville,TX AMMCO.
> Check the Tech tips on the <A
> HREF="www.ntahc.org">NTAHC.ORG</A> web site. He
> put all new bearings in and it sure ran nice on the
> way home.
>
> Don
From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Rick Neville" <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "spridgets"
Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 20:58:38 -0500
Subject: Re: Spin-on oil filter adapter
James Lea
Rockport Maine
1962 BT7 II
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Rick Neville" <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "spridgets"
Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 20:25:08 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: BJ8 Windshield Bracket
There's a special little rubber toggle-action bolt
that fits in the hole in the dash and then a
bolt/screw goes from the top into that rubber piece.
Moss shows the little rubber nut, but it doesn't list
it in stock.
I know that british car specialists carries this
item... and Hemphills probably does too.
www.britishcarspecialists.com
I may be wrong, but I don't think it's absolutely
necessary to mount this up... and I think is meant
mostly to prevent water leakage on the bottom seal...
but the bottom seal works well without this bolt (at
least in my BJ8 it does).
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- Meemeb@aol.com wrote:
> I am replacing the windshield on my BJ8 and there is
> a small grey colored
> bracket in the center of the lower part of the
> windshield frame that aligns with
> a hole in the shroud. Is this bracket supposed to
> be bolted to the shroud to
> provide more support for the windshield? I can't
> see a way to get a bolt and
> nut to the hole in shroud in order to attach to the
> bracket on the windshield
> to the shroud. Can anyone give me some advice on
> the purpose of this bracket
> and how to attach to the shroud?
> Bernie
> 1966 BJ8
From "M Lempert" <mlempert at bellsouth.net>
From: "Rick Neville" <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "spridgets"
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2004 00:06:50 -0500
Subject: Re: 3.54 (lempert) finally installed on BN6
The current run price is $275 plus shipping. The previous one was $220
plus... In addition to the earlier run having been larger in number,
there is history about the pricing from which I still have the scars. Those
with a good memory might remember the story.
I had imposed a deadline of 2/29 (leap) for the current price, but can now
extend it a short while as money has not left my hands yet.
I wish to provide some input to the installation issue because I have some
strong feelings about it. While I wouldn't think of questioning Fred's
ability to do the work, I would be very hesitant to approach other
transmission shops with the same level of confidence. I had arranged for
installations at a Florida shop, Alan's GearWerks. for the first group.
My intent was to provide a reliable source for the work as well as a
reasonable price. I believe the negotiated installation price was quite
fair. To my knowledge, all who used the shop were satisfied.
I recall Alan commenting once that it was a specialty and he didn't
recommend going to a tranny shop where they may only do the work on
occasion. Once again, I'm not doubting Fred's ability as I believe he is
not representative of the average franchise owner.
I am only aware of only two problems where gears had to be replaced, and
neither of these were installed by Alan or another R&P specialist. I am
going to be quite clear on this issue with all who participate in the
current run. I really don't want to see anyone spend all that money and
have a problem. Once the gears are run in a poor alignment they can't be
salvaged.
Now, having said all this, there were quite a few sets that were installed
by mechanics and even a few talented owners. I am not aware of any problems
with those and I hope there aren't any.
I am expecting a call mid this week from my factory contact. I have already
told him that I would like some recommendations for installation at various
shops around the country. I'm hoping that with a regional approach people
will be more willing to use these professionals. I will try to expedite
this list. Alan, by the way, has retired and sold his business to Andy.
I am not sure at this time whether Andy will be a recommended shop, or
whether he will still honor the price negotiated with Alan - which brings up
another issue...
There are still a handful of gear sets sitting in Andy's shop from the first
run. While I kept track of who intended to send their units there for
installation, I was not informed by Alan who had and who hadn't. So, I'd
like to hear from any of you who still have a set there awaiting
installation. I have the original list and may be able to narrow it down by
process of elimination.
Finally, I wish to thank all who have offered so many kind words and
expressions of appreciation. I can't begin to relate how much satisfaction
I've experienced in knowing how happy people have been with this
improvement.
Regards,
Mike Lempert
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: "Rick Neville" <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "spridgets"
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2004 00:14:07 -0500
Subject: Fuel gauge and sender update
Shown below is the initial message I posted almost a month ago. Well, I
finally have the issue resolved. I have learned quite a bit about the
operation of the sender and subsequently the fuel gauge. The short story is
the sender had a severed ground wire inside. I have disassembled it and
reworked the ground wire. While I was at it I calibrated the fuel gauge and
it appears to register wonderfully now! Empty when on E, full when on F, and
1/2 when on !/2. There is a website
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/fg_10.htm
which gives very clear detail with pix of the calibration.
The most interesting thing and that which made no sense to me is that the fg
case has to be grounded to work!
Granted I have not had the car on the road yet but everything checks out on
the bench and in the car with the car sitting still.
If anyone has nonregistering fuel gauge problems or would like more details on
the fix contact me off list.
Keith Pennell
Listers,
Patches, the BN7, has been on the road now for almost 3 years after a frame up
resto. Everything has worked perfectly . . . well almost. About 4 months ago
the fuel gauge would occasionally just peg left. Later it would come back to
life. About 1 month ago it went left and has been there since. On my 30
minute drive today it did not come back to life.
I applied an extra ground to the sending unit and no reading. I checked for
voltage at the sending unit and none. I checked for voltage on the T terminal
of the gauge and none. I checked for voltage on the B terminal of the gauge
and got voltage.
Why is my gauge not working and what is necessary to fix it?
Somewhat electrically challenged
Keith Pennell
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Rick Neville" <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "spridgets"
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2004 01:00:52 EST
Subject: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Re:=20=A0=20V1=20#1085?=
> You have, if Grace was involved, understandably misidentified
> the car since you were probably paying more attention to the blonde. It
> was a Sunbeam Talbot Alpine from the early fifties, predecessor to the
> more familiar Sunbeam Alpine from the sixties. The movie was 'To catch
> a thief' http://www.wmspear.com/STA/
>
Let's get this straight -- Tippi Hedren, The Birds, Aston Martin DB3
Grace Kelly, To Catch a Thief, Sunbeam Alpine (often misnamed Sunbeam Talbott
Alpine)
Oh, and Kim Novak, Vertigo, Jaguar Mark IX
All, of course, by Hitchcock, who was a British car lover.
Gary Anderson
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