R. Cobb, Randy? Richard? Raymond? Ha - Rusty? Restorer? Ruthless bolt
remover? (I know I am a bit twisted this early in the morning)
I just use a 1 or 2 inch long bolt of the same size and thread as the
cup bolt with two nuts. One of the two nuts is half-on-half-off the end
of the bolt
the other tightened against it to keep it on the bolt. This is my poor
man's tool. You only get about three threads but it is enough to get a
grip on the dust cup. This is also a swell field expedient trick
(hopefully you'll never need but nice to know).
I thread the "half-on-half-off nut" onto the end of the dust cap bolt
and grip it with vice grips. The first time I had to pry against the
vice grips with another tool but after that it has always come off with
just the vice grips. I had to replace one for the same reason you
describe (DPO artifact).
Hope this makes sense. Other wise you can make a tool by welding a jig
up for a home made puller. I don't have a welder so I always did it the
cheapo way. At least I didn't gouge the cup bolt with the vice grips.
I just keep the little two nuts / one bolt tool around.
Of course if the the one side is really bent outta whack I would just
use vice grips and force placing a buffer between your pry tool and the
splined hub.
Tracy
60BT7
Alan Schultz wrote:
> Would a long nose vise-grip be long enough to reach the stud? I think
> the nose is about 6 inches long.
>
> Alan S
> 67BJ8
>
> R. Cobb wrote:
>
>> I'm trying to remove the left front hub/disc assembly on my BJ8,
>> Phase 2. The stud on the grease cup is bent at an angle (with
>> respect to the interior of the hub cylinder) and the cup itself has
>> been battered and torn badly and is no longer a continuous circular
>> housing.
>>
>> Any thoughts on removal techniques without doing damage to
>> surrounding parts?
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> R. Cobb
|