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Re: Master cylinder

To: "Alex" <alexmm@adelphia.net>,
Subject: Re: Master cylinder
From: "davidwjones" <davidwjones@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2004 23:24:41 -0400
I would use some penetrating oil on the hydraulic fittings to the master
cylinder, though there is no need for more than a drop or two that can be
easily wiped off after. The concern is that the end of the metal line or the
flare can be frozen to the nut, then when unscrewing, the steel line is
twisted, possibly cracked, or even twisted off... This, on cars where the
lines haven't been cracked in eons.
I bled my brake lines and clutch system with a pressure system called easy
bleed, which worked fine for me, but which I have been told since, is not a
good idea...   So I can't help with the other question...

David W. Jones
'62 Mk II BT7 tricarb
Cumberland, RI USA

  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Alex
  To: Healeys (E-mail)
  Sent: Monday, August 23, 2004 10:45 PM
  Subject: Master cylinder


  Is there anything to especially look for or to do when replacing the clutch
  master cylinder on a 3000?

  Some folks suggest using some penetrating oil or Liquid Wrench on the
  1-/2-in. and 7/16-th nuts on the hydraulic lines before loosening them with
  a flare wrench on the old cylinder.

  Is that a good idea, or is there a danger of contaminating either line?

  Can the new master cylinder be primed in place by gravity feeding it from
  the reservoir before connecting the output line to the slave cylinder? For
  that matter, is priming necessary at all?

  Any other suggestions or observations on this seemingly straightforward
  task?

   ==  Alex in Maine
       1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
       Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
       Amateur Radio AI2Q

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