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Re: lubricants

To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: lubricants
From: Dave & M <rusd@velocitus.net>
Date: Sun, 29 May 2005 22:53:11 -0600
Hi Bob,

I think most of your suggestions will work. Everyone seems to have their
own "pet" ideas on the subject.

I disagree with the RL 75W-90 in the differential. This is a API GL-4
rated oil & specifically says on the bottle "do not use in a rear wheel
drive differential which requires a GL-5 lubricant". GL-5 has more
sulfur additive which the high contact pressures in the differential
require.  Hypoid gears have a lot of sliding pressure contact. All but
the early BN1's have hypoid gears & should use GL-5 rated lube.

On the other end, sulfur compounds in the transmission are thought to
shorten the life of the "brass" synchro rings so a GL-4 oil is usually
used as you suggest.

Dave Russell

Bob Spidell wrote:
 > Here's my preferences:
 >
 > - Engine oil: I have a BJ8, known for showing relatively low oil
 > pressure due to the gear-type pump.  I just completed a 2,800+ mile
 > trip through the Southwest in a  heat wave, and I believe the Quaker
 > State semi-syn oil I used gave me a couple more PSI.  This stuff only
 >  costs a little more than mineral 20W-50.  I did a lot of research
 > and believe the viscosity index (VI) of an oil roughly correlates
 > with oil pressure when hot.  The QS semi-syn has a VI of
 > 130-something, mineral 20W-50  is usually 120 and full syns are
 > around 150.  I think the semi-syn is a good  compromise.
 >
 > - Brake fluid: I've used DOT5 (silicone) BF for probably 18 years
 > with no problems I can attribute to the fluid.  But lately, I've
 > noticed that some of the fluid I've bled to have a browish
 > color--anybody else noticed this?  I just rebuilt the servo and
 > replaced both MCs--I think maybe there was something in the new cyls.
 >  - Gearbox-O/D: I've used Redline MT90 for over two years and 7,000
 > miles.  I'll never go back.  One Lister (Alan?) has noted less brass
 > shake in the fluid with MT90;  this bodes well for synchro lifespan.
 > Shifts are smoother and the O/D engages  quicker.
 >
 > - Differential: Redline 75W-90 gear oil.  No noticeable difference
 > from mineral (not surprisingly), but if the MT90 is any indication I
 > expect no problems and probably longer life from the (already almost
 > indestructable) Healey rearend. - Carbs: I use the "official" SU oil,
 >  but I think any 20W would work. Have used engine oil and ATF in the
 > past and not noticed much difference.  Use the lightest oil you can
 > that prevents lean miss on hard acceleration (and only put about a
 > half-inch in the bottom of the inner piston; any more gets blown out
 > the cap).
 >
 > - Shocks: Use official Armstrong shock fluid.  Why not--it's not
 > expensive.
 >
 > - Coolant: Unless you live in a really cold climate, use about 1/3
 > antifreeze (green) to 2/3 distilled water.  As far as I'm concerned,
 > the "controversy" over using dist. water--something about it being
 > "mineral hungry" or some such hogwash--is over.   Most auto experts
 > are recommending distilled, and I've used it for over 15 years  and
 > the coolant and the inside of the engine stay clean.  Use Redline
 > Water Wetter if you live in a hot climate; it appears to keep the
 > temp down a couple degrees.   In fact, if you live in a hot climate
 > you can use straight dist. water with Water  Wetter.
 >
 > - Driver: Arizona Ice Tea with Ginseng ;)
 >
 >
 > bs




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