Bernie,
Assuming that you have bled a sufficient quantity (it's cheap)of fluid to
remove all the air then one has to look at the master or the individual
wheel cylinders as the problem or in the case of restorations where the
lines have been disconnected the possibility that one or more have been left
un-tightened. Pressurize the system with an ez-bleed or similar device(if
not available a hair dryer warming the closed reservoir will suffice). Check
for leaks, if your pedal will not remain "hard" there is a leak. This is not
rocket science. About the only other thing that can screw up the equation is
that the shoes are grossly un-adjusted, there is no free play at the pedal
or in even more rare events the pressure relief valve is dislodged or coated
with schmutz (for lack of a better word) at the bottom of the master bore.
Hope this helps somewhat,
Dave
Ps it is always best to bench bleed the masters and I even pre-fill the
slaves.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of grabow.berniel@kendle.com
Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2006 5:08 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Is Bench Bleeding Necessary?
The 10 year restoration of my 1966 BJ8 is about completed and I am having
trouble getting the brakes bled. I replaced all brake lines, master
cylinder, and brake servo, I filled the brake reservoir with synthetic
brake fluid and bled the brakes. After bleeding I find that the brake
pedal is still soft and spongey. I have to pump the brake pedal to get
braking action. So, I bled the brakes again and saw no air bubbles
exiting at the wheel cylinders and calipers nor at the servo bleed screw.
I checked all the fittings and have found no leaks. Is it necessary for
me to remove the brake master cylinder and bench bleed it? Will this solve
the problem?
Bernie
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