After seriously considering bypassing my heater all together to eliminate any
excess heat in the cock pit not to mention the problems that may occur if the
infamous water valve decides to self destruct.
A few questions come to mind as I am looking at my heater on my bench.
- As I peer into the inside of my new heater water valve and observe how
little the internal valve actually moves when activated, I find it hard to
believe that this valve would help with controlling the heat in my car. More
of a hindrance than a positive. I have modified a few of these valves by
adding washers behind the hair pin clip for my other LBCs, some work OK some ,
no change. Soooooo
- Is there anything wrong with omitting the heater valve on top of the heater
and just attaching the supply hose directly to the matrix stub that is
protruding through the top of the heater unit. I should be able to control
the water flow from the engine block valve and what little I use a heater in
my car I really don't need 2 valves to control the heater. I don't mind
popping the hood to turn the block valve on or off. Any problems doing it
this way besides not having control over the valve from inside the car?
- What is the sealant /weather strip of choice , for the "heater to firewall
" connection. We've come a long way since these were put in the cars so
while I'm at it I just want to know what others have tried to make this seal
connection with. ( silicone, dumb dumb putty, foam weather seal)
Thanks,, Mark
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