Agree with the suggestion of lube, also have noticed the little packets of
lube you used to get with rebuild kits seem to be going away. There are
kits out there that the rubbers is poorly molded, oversized and basically
crap these days, I had similar problems when doing my tr250 (which I believe
has the same front brakse as a 3000). I ordered a Beck Arnley kit from Rock
Auto, it was actually both cheaper and better. www.rockauto.com No
financial interest, etc.
Greg Lemon
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: "Oudesluys" <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
Cc: "George Vernau Sr." <gvernau@containerhouse.com>; "Healey List"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 27, 2009 6:57 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] caliper rebuild
> Kees -
> You're right about the corrosion, but George bought SS pistons so it
> shouldn't be an issue. The old chrome plated ones would go, but the SS
> ones
> are much better.
>
> Alan
>
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '64 BJ8
>
>
> On Sun, Sep 27, 2009 at 3:34 PM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:
>
>> When assembling brake cilinders or callipers use the special lubricant
>> only. If you use brake fluid this will also remain on the exposed outside
>> parts which can cause future corrosion.
>> I always use Ate. But Girling, Lockheed and others all have their own
>> version. One tube will last you forever. I think I have used the same
>> tube
>> for over 40 years. The same stuff is still available. It has the
>> consistency
>> of liquid soap.
>> Also check that you have the right seals. If these are slightly oversized
>> (wrong kit?) they will get damaged.
>> Kees Oudesluijs
>> NL
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