Then if the holes line up at whatever torque is showing, it's as close as
the factory used. Put in the cotter pin and pat yourself for a job well
done. ;~)
To be perfectly clear, tighten beyond the holes and castle nut clearance,
then back off nut just enough to pass the cotter through.
This is a tough audience and when it's slow here I'm way too chatty..
dave
frogeye@porterscustom.com
Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2 1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles
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_____
From: warthodson@aol.com [mailto:warthodson@aol.com]
Sent: Friday, September 10, 2010 5:35 PM
To: frogeye@porterscustom.com; hgmiller3@qwest.net; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering arm torque
The steering arm is tapered & splied, but the nut is not. It also does not
use a lock washer. It does use a cotter pin.
Gary Hodson
-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
To: 'Herb Miller' <hgmiller3@qwest.net>; healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, Sep 10, 2010 6:11 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering arm torque
Herb,
Just a "WAG" as they say, but if 80 ft lbs is good for lug nuts, I'd guess
100 is sufficient for that nut. Since it is probably both tapered and
splined and uses a lock washer to boot, it isn't going to come apart without
a puller after once being tightened. Using torque valves is really only
important when one needs to have even clamping over a multi-fastener object
or when delicate threads might be damaged from over tightening.
Engineers? Your thoughts..
frogeye@porterscustom.com
Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2 1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles
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