I had mine machined from Stainless Steel and had a hole machined on the bottom
surface where the centerbolt of the leaf spring engages B and a corresponding
dowel machined to the exact dimensions of the centerbolt that wasB inserted
on the top surface .B Also had U-bolts made to the new specs (about 1.5inch
change).B Shortly after having gone through this effort, I found a kit (I
just can't remember where) in a catalog of Healey parts and upgrades.B The
kit consists of 2 aluminum blocks, I think 2/3 inch, and longer U-bolts.B The
blocks look for similar to the ones IB designed and had machined.B Mine were
just 1/2 inch bigger. B So you can probably find this online somewhere if the
dimesions work for you.
Joel
BN2
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Dimmock" <austin.healey@gmail.com>
To: "Ralph Cap" <rjcapo1@yahoo.com>
Cc: Healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, November 14, 2011 3:52:24 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] lowering blocks
If you head down this path, as others mentioned, you need lowering B
blocks and longer U bolts. Depending on how much you lower the car, B
you also need a longer centre bolt. The centre bolt passes through the B
spring to lock it down, and the round head of the centre bolt needs to B
also pass through the lowering block, and engage in the hole in the B
diff banjo. It must engage in the diff banjo.
I'm sure you can buy all this stuff off the shelf now, but when I did B
it 15 years ago, we had to make the lowering blocks and a new longer B
centre bolt. My lowering blocks are about (from memory) 2 3/4 inches B
passengers side and 2 1/4 inches drivers side.
Best chris
Sent from my iPhone
On 15/11/2011, at 1:58 AM, Ralph Cap <rjcapo1@yahoo.com> wrote:
> hi same old question i have a 3000 bj8 that sits just way too high B
> in the rear springs have been on for yrs and still not settling one B
> solution is using lowering blocks but i'm having a hard time finding B
> them any one have this prob and know where to get them or what to do
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