Also check the machined surface where the seal makes contact. If it is worn or
grooved it will need to be re-surfaced or you can install a ready sleeve to
restore the surface.
Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554
> Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2012 16:33:51 -0700
> From: bspidell@comcast.net
> To: steveg@abrazosdata.com
> CC: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear Axle issues
>
> This (replacing the seal) isn't a bad job. Disconnect the driveshaft (duh).
The big nut on the yoke may be difficult
> to remove if it's still torqued well (you'll likely be under the car with a
big breaker bar so be careful). Your e-brake
> should hold the axles so you can undo the nut. The yoke is on a splined
shaft so it it's not rusted on should come off
> with a little plastic hammer persuasion. You'll have to dig the old seal
out with a worm or pick or similar (don't
> scatch the surface of the seal seat)
>
> Grease the lip of the new seal and tap it in evenly with a drift (a little
silicone on the outside of the seal can't
> hurt). Install the seal so the outer edge is even with the inside edge of
the bevel on the inside of the end of the
> third member (this way, it rides on the proper machined surface of the
yoke). IIRC the big nut needs to be torqued to
> 140ft-lbs.
>
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 9/30/2012 3:54 PM, Steve B. Gerow wrote:
> > The seal at the nose of my rear axle where the driveshaft enters is
starting to leak. I detect no play in the bearing by attempting to move the
rear u-joint.
> >
> > Is it likely the front bearing is bad, or can I probably get away with
replacing the seal.
> >
> > Is there an additive which can swell the seal slightly?
> >
> > How difficult is it to get the flange off the pinion shaft?
> >
> > Would be grateful for any experience-based help.
> >
>
>
> --
> *******************************************************************
> Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net
>
> *******************************************************************
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