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Re: [Healeys] manifold nuts

To: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net> s=q20121106; t=1356113593; bh=bR3jq/h9uaGeB5aebKU9uw6s7ref+Rv1fc8U70XQjZA=; h=Received:Received:Date:From:To:Message-ID:Subject:MIME-Version: Content-Type; b=C27hLP5QgMHSXCOCthgMCIMBaENNrYYEHLw2kEqoB8XaOVzisZC2DZ0nSAn7B5tvX N6UrvbKwduk5GGiJSVet/e5bpqeiwMiwYhcC8rIho6iS9mn+5DIVEDVLD7jSd3TKYE ZcxTnqbwxXQBe9Lh30tYWUmVWG+tcs1sWUgGLj1H45xjTnHSCPCzLQq/L8cUJ6Y2Gb G4PHhRsBhlHiXQb2BIWoNNuXVCFqLVr/yqTCXnH6q22LotahFtd09pJ4crekVvH+c5 zvEqEm18qRX3gCTBqsrLQ2zlVNyLaX2QUZQW4anRa6btAzAtUvOM/powd4NRJodYQS TnkRBx3eSey8g==
Subject: Re: [Healeys] manifold nuts
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2012 18:13:13 +0000 (UTC)
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: healeys@autox.team.net
I've always gone 'by the book;' i.e. flatwashers and brass nuts--note the 
flatwashers are thick and probably hardened--and never had a problem with 
loosening. Be sure to torque properly (with no recommended torque pattern I 
usually torque inside to outside). 

I suspect a lockwasher might lose its springiness due to the high temps and 
cycling. Note lockwashers aren't used on head studs or in other critical 
applications where the strength of the joint should be determined by the 
stretch on the bolt (see: 'torque-to-yield' as well). 

Bob 

ps. <caution: snarkiness ahead> If lockwashers were 'recommended,' the parts 
book would have shown them. 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----
From: "john spaur" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net> 
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Sent: Friday, December 21, 2012 9:56:59 AM 
Subject: [Healeys] manifold nuts 

The parts book shows only plain steel washers and tall brass nuts to 
attach the manifolds to the head. 

Is a lock washer recommended? 

I have always used them but would like to know what the best practice is. 

John Spaur 
'62 BT7 
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