Hi Gary,
I have been struggling with exactly the same issue with the new
(aftermarket) clutch that I installed in my Subaru "winter beater".
The disc was considerably thicker than that which I removed and from the
time it was installed it has been "hanging up" and making the engagement of
reverse (non synchronized) almost impossible without turning the engine
off, engaging reverse then restarting the engine with the clutch depressed
completely to the floor.
The problem is, as Kees pointed out, that there is more compressibility in
your new disc and the standard Healey clutch operating mechanism probably
does not deliver sufficient movement at the release bearing to accommodate
that compressibility.
Although you can engage your synchronized 2nd gear to get the innards of
the gearbox stationary without the gnashing of gears that can actually be
pretty hard on the sychromesh if you have to do it for a prolonged period.
Grinding it into reverse or 1st is a definite no-no. Little pieces of
hardened gear teeth will chip off as you do that and they will eventually
find their way into the gearbox bearings and ruin them.
Assuming that you have ensured that the clutch is delivering a full stroke
you really should bite the bullet and change the disc for something with
less compressibility.
BTW do check for wear on the fork and clevis pin of the master cylinder at
the pedal, that can make quite a difference. I wrote a little article on
that which you can read here. <http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=82>
I have now done some 5000 km in the Subaru, without taking my own advice I
might add, and I'm now able to get it into reverse without having to turn
the engine off first then starting it in gear so I can back up.
I should also mention that changing the length of the slave cylinder push
rod may fix the problem BUT lengthening that rod in an effort to do so will
probably result in there being a preload on the release bearing such that
it is forced against the pressure plate at all times resulting in premature
wear of both the bearing and the bearing face on the pressure plate.
Michael S
<http://here.>
On Tue, Jun 4, 2013 at 2:58 PM, <warthodson@aol.com> wrote:
> I recently reinstalled my trans/OD in my BJ8. The OD was sent out for a
> rebuild. The transmission had been working perfectly, prior to removal. I
> only
> had 25,000 miles on the entire drive train, but while the trans/OD was out
> I
> decided to replace the clutch disc because it would be easy to do. The old
> disc looked great. It measured 9.5" diameter which is the specification
> for a
> BJ8 clutch. I picked a new one up at Victoria British, but when I got home
> it
> measured 9-1/16" diameter. I called Moss & they assured me that their
> clutch
> measured 9.5" so I ordered it. When it arrived it was identical in every
> way
> to the Victoria British disc. The exact same product. I knew it was not a
> big
> difference so I installed it. The thickness of the new disc was slightly
> (less
> the 1/32") thicker that the old disc. My problem is that now I am having a
> lot
> of trouble getting into 1st & reverse when stopped, even if I go into 2nd
> before trying to shift into 1st or reverse. It is acting like the clutch
> has
> not fully released even though I have the pedal on the floor & there is no
> air
> in the system. I now have 180 miles on the new clutch. Any ideas what is
> causing this issue & will it go away when the clutch gets more broken in?
> Gary Hodson
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--
Michael Salter
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