One factor which I have found makes a surprisingly large difference is the
correct installation of the radiator baffles. I have resolved persistent
overheating problems in 6 cylinder cars by just ensuring that the hot air
from the engine compartment cannot make its way around to the front of the
radiator..
It's worth a try and a lot less expensive than an aluminium radiator.
Michael S
BN1 #174
On Tue, Oct 14, 2014 at 12:47 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
> Agreed. I am using a (modern) sleeved-type thermostat, have a calibrated
> gauge and have tried several thermostats (I tested a couple on the stove
> and they functioned as expected). Still, my BJ8 engine will run below the
> thermostat set point on a cool day with light load--I would expect the
> coolant temp even under those conditions to rise to nominal, but it
> doesn't. Our BN2 behaves the same way.
>
> The only comparison I can think of is air-cooled aircraft engines, which
> usually have an oil cooler. There is a valve called a
> Vernatherm--essentially a bi-metal strip--that closes off oil flow to the
> oil cooler radiator to allow the engine to warm to operating temperature
> before the cooler is brought 'online.' But, an air-cooled engine can
> dissipate a lot more heat than an Austin lump.
>
> Is it possible the huge chunk of iron in front could be 'self-cooling' to
> a point then, beyond that point, even with wide-open thermostat, cannot
> maintain a set temperature? My guess is that at speed there is sufficient
> airflow to cool the engine--even below the thermostat set point--but once
> stuck in traffic or with a load there isn't enough excess airflow and the
> cooling system's capability is exceeded (as Kees mentioned).
>
> Bob
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>
>
> In general the temperature should be more or less constant under any
> condition, just slightly above the opening temperature of the
> thermostat. If the temperature shows to be lower than the thermostat
> opening temperature the thermostat is at fault or is the wrong type (it
> should be of the sleeved type), assuming the heater is turned off. If
> very cold, with the heater plus heater fan on maximum, the temperature
> could drop below the opening temperature of the thermostat.
> If the temperature increases significantly the cooling capacity is
> insufficient because of blockages/dirt, faulty water pump or the wrong
> radiator capacity.
> Older cars can have insufficient cooling capacity at low speeds/engine
> revs, hence the advise to fit a thermostatically controlled electric fan
> when the car is used in modern traffic.
> Kees Oudesluijs
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