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Re: [Healeys] Ah 100 rebuild

To: Jonas Payne <jpaynepbr@cox.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ah 100 rebuild
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2015 22:38:26 +0000 (UTC)
Cc: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <012901d07e12$6433c590$2c9b50b0$@cox.net>
Thread-index: AdB+Ecd3A4XgFEngRcSMMb9FT3rQOL0FnO2m
Thread-topic: Ah 100 rebuild
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Hi Jonas,=20

I've done exactly one BN2 engine (for a 100M), but I learned a lot. In part=
icular, keep track of what screws, bolts, etc. go where; some of them are t=
hem screwball British fine, coarse, Whitworth, etc. In particular, there is=
 one small(er) bolt for the tappet covers that is shorter than the others; =
I think it's the front/bottom-most. If you use one of the longer ones in th=
at hole it will contact a tappet.=20

The 100 engine is known for cracked heads; you'll probably want to magnaflu=
x it and maybe the block, too. Variously recommended are the steel head gas=
ket and/or a British gasket 'varnish' that Norman Nock and Roger Moment bot=
h recommended. Can't recall the name just now; bet someone on the list know=
s it. It's something like Wellman's or similar and comes in a white box wit=
h blue lettering (Moss sells it). We used a std. copper gasket with this st=
uff and no leaks after a couple hundred miles.=20

Otherwise, the rebuild should be pretty straightforward. Rear seal or not i=
s your call, the opinions are mixed. We put one in--machining required--and=
 I think it helps but hasn't stopped leaking from the ream main entirely.=
=20

Bob=20

----- Original Message -----

From: "Jonas Payne" <jpaynepbr@cox.net>=20
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>=20
Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2015 3:11:04 PM=20
Subject: [Healeys] Ah 100 rebuild=20



We have a BN2 in the shop in for an engine rebuild after spinning #3 rod be=
aring and tearing some stuff up.=20



We=E2=80=99ve rebuilt many engines, but this is our first 100-4.=20



Seems pretty straight forward, but they all have their intricacies.=20



If anybody has any specific areas to watch for or specific advice related t=
o minimizing leaks (ha-ha) we would greatly appreciate any input.=20







Thank you,=20



Jonas Payne=20

PBR Consulting Services, LLC=20

702.882.6711=20







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<html><body><div style=3D"font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; color: #0000=
00"><div>Hi Jonas,<br></div><div><br></div><div>I've done exactly one BN2 e=
ngine (for a 100M), but I learned a lot.&nbsp; In particular, keep track of=
 what screws, bolts, etc. go where; some of them are them screwball British=
 fine, coarse, Whitworth, etc.&nbsp; In particular, there is one small(er) =
bolt for the tappet covers that is shorter than the others; I think it's th=
e front/bottom-most.&nbsp; If you use one of the longer ones in that hole i=
t will contact a tappet.<br></div><div><br></div><div>The 100 engine is kno=
wn for cracked heads; you'll probably want to magnaflux it and maybe the bl=
ock, too.&nbsp; Variously recommended are the steel head gasket and/or a Br=
itish gasket 'varnish' that Norman Nock and Roger Moment both recommended.&=
nbsp; Can't recall the name just now; bet someone on the list knows it.&nbs=
p; It's something like Wellman's or similar and comes in a white box with b=
lue lettering (Moss sells it).&nbsp; We used a std. copper gasket with this=
 stuff and no leaks after a couple hundred miles.<br></div><div><br></div><=
div>Otherwise, the rebuild should be pretty straightforward.&nbsp; Rear sea=
l or not is your call, the opinions are mixed.&nbsp; We put one in--machini=
ng required--and I think it helps but hasn't stopped leaking from the ream =
main entirely.<br></div><div><br></div><div>Bob<br></div><div><br></div><hr=
 id=3D"zwchr"><div style=3D"color:#000;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal=
;text-decoration:none;font-family:Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:12pt=
;"><b>From: </b>"Jonas Payne" &lt;jpaynepbr@cox.net&gt;<br><b>To: </b>"heal=
eys" &lt;healeys@autox.team.net&gt;<br><b>Sent: </b>Thursday, April 23, 201=
5 3:11:04 PM<br><b>Subject: </b>[Healeys] Ah 100 rebuild<br><div><br></div>=
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--></style><div class=3D"WordSection1"><p class=3D"MsoNormal">We have a BN2=
 in the shop in for an engine rebuild after spinning #3 rod bearing and tea=
ring some stuff up.</p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p><p class=3D"MsoNorm=
al">We=E2=80=99ve rebuilt many engines, but this is our first 100-4.</p><p =
class=3D"MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">Seems pretty straight =
forward, but they all have their intricacies.&nbsp; </p><p class=3D"MsoNorm=
al">&nbsp;</p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">If anybody has any specific areas to w=
atch for or specific advice related to minimizing leaks (ha-ha) we would gr=
eatly appreciate any input.</p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p><p class=3D=
"MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p><p class=3D"MsoNorma=
l">Thank you,</p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">Jo=
nas Payne</p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">PBR Consulting Services, LLC</p><p clas=
s=3D"MsoNormal">702.882.6711</p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p></div><br>=
<br><div><br></div></div><div><br></div></div></body></html>
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