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Fellow Healeyoids! I wonder if you could weld a nut bolt combo to the =
shackle pin and use a slide hammer to pull it out whilst using heat and =
quenching with ice water or dry ice.
=20
Randy=20
60 BT7
63 BJ7
=20
=20
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of =
Curtis Arndt
Sent: Friday, June 26, 2015 12:39 PM
To: Michael Salter
Cc: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Looking for ideas
=20
Micheal,
My short article on removing broken studs from Manifolds...
Removing Broken Studs from Cast Iron Manifolds
=20
This is method that I use to remove broken bolts and studs from cast =
iron exhaust manifolds. With a broken stud in a manifold, as long as I =
can get a small pair of long nose locking pliers onto the screw, bolt or =
stud then the rest is typically easy, if you are patient.
=20
I heat only the exposed stud or bolt with a torch to cherry red and then =
shock cool it with a wet rag, followed by some penetrating solution like =
"Kroil" or "PB Blaster". Then I carefully clamp the needle nose locking =
pliers on the end of the exposed stud and GENTLY rock it back and forth =
ever so slightly. If you get any movement whatsoever back and forth the =
rest will come, if you're patient. Repeat the heating and shock cooling =
process followed by the locking pliers as many times as it takes. With =
patience and luck the broken stud will progressively unscrew a bit =
farther with each application of heat and penetrating oil until it will =
unscrew all the way. =20
=20
I did this recently with a BJ8 Manifold where 7 of the 8 studs were =
frozen and/or broken off. Some of them had just =C2=BC=E2=80=9D of stud =
proud of the manifold. All seven came out using this process.
=20
This process may work on an aluminum manifold IF and ONLY IF you are =
careful not to use too much heat near the aluminum.=20
=20
=20
On Fri, Jun 26, 2015 at 2:52 AM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com =
Thanks to all for the good ideas some I have already tried without =
success....Looks like cutting and drilling is to be the order of the =
day..unfortunately those pins are case hardened which won't make things =
easier.
If all else fails new brackets..
Michael S
BN1 #174
=20
On Thu, Jun 25, 2015 at 5:42 PM, Michael <michael.salter@gmail.com =
I left the seized shackle pins in both sides of this BN1 when it went =
off to TechnoStrip in the hope that they would come loose.
They didn't so I've spent an inordinate amount of time trying to extract =
them without wreaking the mounts on the frame.
Made a special puller, applied loss of heat, drilled right through each =
bush, grumbled a lot but they will not move despite being subjected to =
massive amount of force.
Any ideas...damaging the mounts in the chassis makes for a very tedious =
repair.
Michael S.
BN1 #174
--=20
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
=20
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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-US link=3Dblue =
vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>Fellow Healeyoids!=C2=A0 I wonder if you could weld a nut bolt combo to =
the shackle pin and use a slide hammer to pull it out whilst using heat =
and quenching with ice water or dry ice.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>Randy <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>60 BT7<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>63 BJ7<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><a =
name=3D"_MailEndCompose"><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
><o:p> </o:p></span></a></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>From:</span><=
/b><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'> =
Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] <b>On Behalf Of =
</b>Curtis Arndt<br><b>Sent:</b> Friday, June 26, 2015 12:39 =
PM<br><b>To:</b> Michael Salter<br><b>Cc:</b> =
Healeys@autox.team.net<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Looking for =
ideas<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'>Micheal,<o:p></o:p></p></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'>My short article on =
removing broken studs from Manifolds...<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><b>Removing =
Broken Studs from Cast Iron Manifolds</b><o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'> <o:p><=
/o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>This is =
method that I use to remove broken bolts and studs from cast iron =
exhaust manifolds. With a broken stud in a manifold, as long as I can =
get a small pair of long nose locking pliers onto the screw, bolt or =
stud then the rest is typically easy, if you are =
patient.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'> =
<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>I heat =
<u>only</u> the exposed stud or bolt with a torch to <u>cherry red</u> =
and then shock cool it with a wet rag, followed by some penetrating =
solution like "Kroil" or "PB Blaster". Then I =
carefully clamp the needle nose locking pliers on the end of the exposed =
stud and GENTLY rock it back and forth ever so slightly. If you =
get any movement whatsoever back and forth the rest will come, if you're =
patient. Repeat the heating and shock cooling process followed by =
the locking pliers as many times as it takes. With patience and =
luck the broken stud will progressively unscrew a bit farther with each =
application of heat and penetrating oil until it will unscrew all the =
way. <o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><o:p> <=
/o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>I did this =
recently with a BJ8 Manifold where 7 of the 8 studs were frozen and/or =
broken off. Some of them had just =C2=BC=E2=80=9D of stud proud of =
the manifold. All seven came out using this =
process.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'> <o:p><=
/o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>This =
process may work on an aluminum manifold IF and ONLY IF you are careful =
not to use too much heat near the aluminum. <o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>On Fri, =
Jun 26, 2015 at 2:52 AM, Michael Salter <<a =
href=3D"mailto:michaelsalter@gmail.com"; =
target=3D"_blank">michaelsalter@gmail.com</a>> =
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p><blockquote style=3D'border:none;border-left:solid =
#CCCCCC 1.0pt;padding:0in 0in 0in =
6.0pt;margin-left:4.8pt;margin-right:0in'><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-family:"Comic Sans MS"'>Thanks to =
all for the good ideas some I have already tried without =
success....Looks like cutting and drilling is to be the order of the =
day..unfortunately those pins are case hardened which won't make things =
easier.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'><span style=3D'font-family:"Comic Sans =
MS"'>If all else fails new brackets..<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-family:"Comic Sans MS"'>Michael =
S<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Comic Sans MS"'>BN1 =
#174<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>On Thu, =
Jun 25, 2015 at 5:42 PM, Michael <<a =
href=3D"mailto:michael.salter@gmail.com"; =
target=3D"_blank">michael.salter@gmail.com</a>> =
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p><blockquote style=3D'border:none;border-left:solid =
#CCCCCC 1.0pt;padding:0in 0in 0in =
6.0pt;margin-left:4.8pt;margin-right:0in'><div><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>I left the =
seized shackle pins in both sides of this BN1 when it went off to =
TechnoStrip in the hope that they would come loose.<br>They didn't so =
I've spent an inordinate amount of time trying to extract them without =
wreaking the mounts on the frame.<br>Made a special puller, applied loss =
of heat, drilled right through each bush, grumbled a lot but they will =
not move despite being subjected to massive amount of force.<br>Any =
ideas...damaging the mounts in the chassis makes for a very tedious =
repair.<br>Michael S.<br>BN1 =
#174<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div></div></blockquote></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><br><br clear=3Dall><br><span class=3Dhoenzb><span =
style=3D'color:#888888'>-- =
<o:p></o:p></span></span></p><div><div><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'><i><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:black'>If you can't fix it with a =
hammer, you've got an electrical =
problem.</span></i><o:p></o:p></p></div></div></div></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'><br><br><br><o:p></o:p></p></blockquote></=
div><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p></div></div></body></html>
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