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Within limits it is not that critical but treat the specification as a
maximum toe in to fend of uneven tyre wear. It also depends on the rest
of the suspension set up, tyres, tyre pressure and use of the car.
For the standard set up, cross ply tyres and just some leisurely touring
around you would want something very near the specified toe in. For
radial tyres with a bit higher tyre pressure, a bit less toe in to zero.
If you have a negative camber set up, stiffer springs, anti roll bars
and doing some serious fast driving, zero to a bit toe out is often
used. This will take some experimenting, what suits you best.
Do not do this yourself but have it done at a reputable service station
that preferably has some experience in motor sport and has the proper
equipment to perform 4-wheel aligning. This way slight imperfections in
the chassis and suspension can be compensated for.
Kees Oudesluijs
Roger Grace schreef op 9-8-2015 om 21:09:
> I had been fiddling with my steering rods so had to reset the toe in.
> All a bit fiddly and wonder if the more experienced Listers have a
> different/better technique ... ??
> This is what I do:
> car level and front tire pressure balanced.
> installed 2x al 1â?? square tubing (sq for straightness) about 27/28 in
> long for 165/15 tyres across the bottom of the wheels; about 6 in from
> the floor; tried to use bungy cords but in the end made a small
> retaining bracket that screws behind the spokes; made these 2 bars
> level; tightened just firm enough to stop movement.
> marked the front and rear tire extremity on this bar.
> bar cannot be higher as frame gets in the way of a tape measure for
> rear measurement.
> measured front and rear distances at tire extremity to give about 3/32
> toe in
> I feel that the limitation of this method is that am trying to measure
> a relatively small distance over about 5 ft and the assumption that
> the tyre side walls are uniform.
> Took at least 5 adjustment and measurements to get close â?? of course
> the LH thread always fools me .. !!
> Any ideas ?
> Wonder how critical this toe in really is ?
> rg
> 67 BJ8
>
>
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> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
> Versie: 2015.0.6125 / Virusdatabase: 4392/10407 - datum van uitgifte:
> 08/09/15
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<div class="moz-cite-prefix">Within limits it is not that critical
but treat the specification as a maximum toe in to fend of uneven
tyre wear. It also depends on the rest of the suspension set up,
tyres, tyre pressure and use of the car.<br>
For the standard set up, cross ply tyres and just some leisurely
touring around you would want something very near the specified
toe in. For radial tyres with a bit higher tyre pressure, a bit
less toe in to zero.<br>
If you have a negative camber set up, stiffer springs, anti roll
bars and doing some serious fast driving, zero to a bit toe out is
often used. This will take some experimenting, what suits you best.<br>
Do not do this yourself but have it done at a reputable service
station that preferably has some experience in motor sport and has
the proper equipment to perform 4-wheel aligning. This way slight
imperfections in the chassis and suspension can be compensated
for.<br>
Kees Oudesluijs<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Roger Grace schreef op 9-8-2015 om 21:09:<br>
</div>
<blockquote
cite="mid:42E53AC8330F49F78BDCF6453596E9D2@WINDOWST93OFP9"
type="cite">
<meta http-equiv="Context-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
<div dir="ltr">
<div>
<div>
<div dir="ltr">
<div>
<div>
<div dir="ltr">
<div>
<div>I had been fiddling with my steering rods so
had to reset the toe in.</div>
<div>All a bit fiddly and wonder if the more
experienced Listers have a different/better
technique ... ??</div>
<div>Â </div>
<div>This is what I do:</div>
<div>car level and front tire pressure balanced.</div>
<div>installed 2x al 1â?? square tubing (sq for
straightness) about 27/28 in long for 165/15
tyres across the bottom of the wheels; about 6
in from the floor; tried to use bungy cords but
in the end made a small retaining bracket that
screws behind the spokes; made these 2 bars
level; tightened just firm enough to stop
movement.</div>
<div>marked the front and rear tire extremity on
this bar.</div>
<div>bar cannot be higher as frame gets in the way
of a tape measure for rear measurement.</div>
<div>measured front and rear distances at tire
extremity to give about 3/32 toe in</div>
<div>I feel that the limitation of this method is
that am trying to measure a relatively small
distance over about 5 ft and the assumption that
the tyre side walls are uniform.</div>
<div>Took at least 5 adjustment and measurements
to get close â?? of course the LH thread always
fools me .. !!</div>
<div>Any ideas ?</div>
<div>Â </div>
<div>Wonder how critical this toe in really is ?</div>
<div>Â </div>
<div>rg</div>
<div>67 BJ8</div>
<div>Â </div>
<div>Â </div>
<div>Â </div>
<div>Â </div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<br>
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<fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
<br>
<meta http-equiv="Context-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
<p class="">Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.<br>
Gecontroleerd door AVG - <a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="http://www.avg.com";>www.avg.com</a><br>
Versie: 2015.0.6125 / Virusdatabase: 4392/10407 - datum van
uitgifte: 08/09/15</p>
</blockquote>
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