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All good points and noted.
I am now of the opinion that when the spline play appears to be reduced =
by tightening the knock on it is really just clamping it against the =
rear cone. This surely must be a good thing eliminating the play and =
providing some resistance before the splines come into play. So, =
notwithstanding what Dave said about grease I will keep the rear cones =
dry. There should be no movement so need for any lubrication. The =
splines only should be greased to to prevent sticking. See link to MWS =
site on this topic.
Also to assist tightening the knock nut, on will grease the outside cone =
lightly.=20
rg
http://www.mwsint.com/site/cms/contentCategoryView.asp?category=3D214
From: J. Armour=20
Sent: Saturday, November 7, 2015 3:17 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net=20
Subject: [Healeys] Splines and Wheels
Blokes
I firmly believe that only the splines do the transmission of =
acceleration and braking torque. The knock-off clamps the wheel in place =
and the two cones within the wheel hub/splines centralises the wheel. I =
once had a knock-off come off and the wheel still turned with the hub =
and slowed under braking.
Splines require the minimum of clearance to eliminate the fretting =
caused when the wheel rocks back and forward on the hub. You can =
purchase an anti-fretting grease.
I agree that it is almost impossible to eliminate clearance within the =
the spline to spline fit otherwise we would not be able to remove them =
easily.
A loose knock-off allows the wheel to become off centre and then with =
each rotation the wheel will 'walk' or rotate on a different centre to =
the hub/axle centre. The splines with their clearance will not keep the =
wheel centralised due to the built in clearance. This will create =
excessive wear on both sets of splines.
I also agree that the Left and Right hand thread system is to =
counter-act wheels coming loose but I find it hard to accept that this =
system will tighten an already loose knock-off. It is also important to =
tighten wheels with NO weight on them that is with the wheel raised off =
the ground. This allows the wheel to easily centralise on the =
cones/tapers before final hammer tightening. Remember if you do not have =
a flat spot on the top of the splines you have worn or badly made =
splines. Also it is unwise to expect a long life from the splines when =
new are fitted to old (worn)
The manufacturing process of the axle hub =E2=80=93 machined, and the =
softer wheel centre hub splines maybe made with a broaching process =
raises the question of which component will be manufactured more =
accurately. Their fit and clearance is critical to their life. Material =
hardness is also important and lubrication adds value.
Over the years I have seen some radical home-made fixes for worn splines =
down to no splines.
Your comments
-------------------------------------------------------------------------=
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_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace@telus.net
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No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2015.0.6173 / Virus Database: 4457/10964 - Release Date: =
11/07/15
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<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Comic Sans MS'; COLOR: =
#000000">
<DIV>All good points and noted.</DIV>
<DIV>I am now of the opinion that when the spline play appears to be =
reduced by=20
tightening the knock on it is really just clamping it against the rear =
cone.=20
This surely must be a good thing eliminating the play and providing some =
resistance before the splines come into play. So, notwithstanding what =
Dave said=20
about grease I will keep the rear cones dry. There should be no movement =
so need=20
for any lubrication. The splines only should be greased to to prevent =
sticking.=20
See link to MWS site on this topic.</DIV>
<DIV>Also to assist tightening the knock nut, on will grease the outside =
cone=20
lightly. </DIV>
<DIV>rg</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><A=20
title=3Dhttp://www.mwsint.com/site/cms/contentCategoryView.asp?category=3D=
214=20
href=3D"http://www.mwsint.com/site/cms/contentCategoryView.asp?category=3D=
214">http://www.mwsint.com/site/cms/contentCategoryView.asp?category=3D21=
4</A></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt tahoma">
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND: #f5f5f5">
<DIV style=3D"font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A =
title=3Dsebring3000@bigpond.com=20
href=3D"mailto:sebring3000@bigpond.com";>J. Armour</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, November 7, 2015 3:17 PM</DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=3Dhealeys@autox.team.net=20
href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net";>healeys@autox.team.net</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> [Healeys] Splines and Wheels</DIV></DIV></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV></DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV>Blokes</DIV>
<DIV>I firmly believe that only the splines do the transmission of =
acceleration=20
and braking torque. The knock-off clamps the wheel in place and the two =
cones=20
within the wheel hub/splines centralises the wheel. I once had a =
knock-off come=20
off and the wheel still turned with the hub and slowed under =
braking.</DIV>
<DIV>Splines require the minimum of clearance to eliminate the fretting =
caused=20
when the wheel rocks back and forward on the hub. You can purchase an=20
anti-fretting grease.</DIV>
<DIV>I agree that it is almost impossible to eliminate clearance within =
the the=20
spline to spline fit otherwise we would not be able to remove them =
easily.</DIV>
<DIV>A loose knock-off allows the wheel to become off centre and then =
with each=20
rotation the wheel will 'walk' or rotate on a different centre to the =
hub/axle=20
centre. The splines with their clearance will not keep the wheel =
centralised due=20
to the built in clearance. This will create excessive wear on both sets =
of=20
splines.</DIV>
<DIV>I also agree that the Left and Right hand thread system is to =
counter-act=20
wheels coming loose but I find it hard to accept that this system will =
tighten=20
an already loose knock-off. It is also important to tighten wheels with =
NO=20
weight on them that is with the wheel raised off the ground. This allows =
the=20
wheel to easily centralise on the cones/tapers before final hammer =
tightening.=20
Remember if you do not have a flat spot on the top of the splines you =
have worn=20
or badly made splines. Also it is unwise to expect a long life from the =
splines=20
when new are fitted to old (worn)</DIV>
<DIV>The manufacturing process of the axle hub =E2=80=93 machined, and =
the softer wheel=20
centre hub splines maybe made with a broaching process raises the =
question of=20
which component will be manufactured more accurately. Their fit and =
clearance is=20
critical to their life. Material hardness is also important and =
lubrication adds=20
value.</DIV>
<DIV>Over the years I have seen some radical home-made fixes for worn =
splines=20
down to no splines.</DIV>
<DIV>Your comments</DIV>
<P>
<HR>
_______________________________________________<BR>Support Team.Net=20
$12.75<BR>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<BR>Forums:=20
http://www.team.net/forums<BR><BR>Healeys@autox.team.net<BR>http://autox.=
team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys<BR><BR>Unsubscribe/Manage:=20
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace@telus.net<BR><BR>
<P>
<HR>
<A></A>
<P align=3Dleft color=3D"#000000" avgcert??>No virus found in this=20
message.<BR>Checked by AVG - <A=20
href=3D"http://www.avg.com";>www.avg.com</A><BR>Version: 2015.0.6173 / =
Virus=20
Database: 4457/10964 - Release Date:=20
11/07/15</P></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>
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_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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