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Re: [Healeys] Bugeye Brake Problem

To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bugeye Brake Problem
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
Date: Fri, 27 Nov 2015 17:33:37 +0100
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <1514966174a-6abc-7cbd@webprd-a66.mail.aol.com>
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You just use an old original cap and adapt it to suit the hose of the 
Ezibleed (or whatever the spelling is).
Kees Oudesluijs


Op 27-11-2015 om 15:43 schreef warthodson@aol.com:
> If the rear drum brakes are adjusted too loose it will require a lot 
> of pedal travel before the pedal feels firm. Try tightening them a 
> little & see if it feels better. Also, adjusting them tight will 
> assist in the bleeding process. You can always back them off after you 
> are sure all the air is out of the system. Occasionally, when bleeding 
> I have found that I need to push down the brake break pedal very 
> quickly to force air bubbles that are trapped at high spots in the 
> brake lines to move them down the line. If you push slowly the fluid 
> can simply flow past the bubble without moving the bubble. I also like 
> using the Ezeebleed system. I bought one about 15 years ago. It did 
> not have a lid (cap) that would screw onto the reservoir & seal 
> tightly. That is a necessity. I improvised & got it to work. Do they 
> now include a tight fitting cap for the Giriling reservoir?
> Gary Hodson
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
> To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thu, Nov 26, 2015 2:49 pm
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bugeye Brake Problem
>
> Ezeebleed on the MBC or vacuum pump on the bleed nipples.
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
> Op 26-11-2015 om 20:53 schreef John and Judy Carter:
>
>     I have a Bugeye that I have replaced all the front and rear rubber
>     including the master cylinder. New calipers on front and new  rear
>     drums, springs, cylinders,etc.,etc. New rubber in clutch slave.
>     After bleeding using the two-man method I still am not satisfied
>     with the pedal feel. It still depresses about half way down
>     although the stopping power is pretty good. Is it possible
>     to get a really hard brake pedal in this car? Is there any
>     sure-fire way to bleed all the air out of the lines?
>
>
>
>
>
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> Versie: 2016.0.7227 / Virusdatabase: 4477/11073 - datum van uitgifte: 
> 11/27/15
>


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    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">You just use an old original cap and
      adapt it to suit the hose of the Ezibleed (or whatever the
      spelling is).<br>
      Kees Oudesluijs<br>
      <br>
      <br>
      Op 27-11-2015 om 15:43 schreef <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" 
href="mailto:warthodson@aol.com";>warthodson@aol.com</a>:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote cite="mid:1514966174a-6abc-7cbd@webprd-a66.mail.aol.com"
      type="cite">
      <meta http-equiv="Context-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8">
      <div>If the rear drum brakes are adjusted too loose it will
        require a lot of pedal travel before the pedal feels firm. Try
        tightening them a little &amp; see if it feels better. Also,
        adjusting them tight will assist in the bleeding process. You
        can always back them off after you are sure all the air is out
        of the system. Occasionally, when bleeding I have found that I
        need to push down the brake break pedal very quickly to
        force air bubbles that are trapped at high spots in the brake
        lines to move them down the line. If you push slowly the fluid
        can simply flow past the bubble without moving the bubble. I
        also like using the Ezeebleed system. I bought one about 15
        years ago. It did not have a lid (cap) that would screw onto the
        reservoir &amp; seal tightly. That is a necessity. I improvised
        &amp; got it to work. Do they now include a tight fitting cap
        for the Giriling reservoir?</div>
      <div>Gary Hodson</div>
      <div> </div>
      <div>-----Original Message-----<br>
        From: Oudesluys <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" 
href="mailto:coudesluijs@chello.nl";>&lt;coudesluijs@chello.nl&gt;</a><br>
        To: healeys <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" 
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net";>&lt;healeys@autox.team.net&gt;</a><br>
        Sent: Thu, Nov 26, 2015 2:49 pm<br>
        Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bugeye Brake Problem<br>
        <br>
        <div id="AOLMsgPart_1.2_98290b8c-64b7-49e3-9aaf-4744cd82845c">
          <div class="aolReplacedBody">
            <div class="moz-cite-prefix">Ezeebleed on the MBC or vacuum
              pump on the bleed nipples.<br>
              Kees Oudesluijs<br>
              <br>
              Op 26-11-2015 om 20:53 schreef John and Judy Carter:<br>
            </div>
            <blockquote cite="about:blank">
              <div dir="ltr">I have a Bugeye that I have replaced all
                the front and rear rubber including the master cylinder.
                New calipers on front and new  rear drums, springs,
                cylinders,etc.,etc. New rubber in clutch slave. After
                bleeding using the two-man method I still am not
                satisfied with the pedal feel. It still depresses about
                half way down although the stopping power is pretty
                good. Is it possible
                <div>to get a really hard brake pedal in this car? Is
                  there any sure-fire way to bleed all the air out of
                  the lines?<br>
                  <br>
                </div>
              </div>
            </blockquote>
            <br>
          </div>
        </div>
        <br>
      </div>
      <br>
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</pre>
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      <p class="">Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.<br>
        Gecontroleerd door AVG - <a moz-do-not-send="true"
          href="http://www.avg.com";>www.avg.com</a><br>
        Versie: 2016.0.7227 / Virusdatabase: 4477/11073 - datum van
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