Thanks, Kees.
I'm hearing/reading everywhere that the proper procedure for bedding-in
cams and lifters is to run at 2,000 RPM give-or-take for 20 minutes.
bs
On 8/27/2016 11:32 AM, Oudesluys wrote:
> When rebuilding engines I have always thickly coated the bearing
> surfaces, and cam lobes using Graphite or Molybdenium grease. At first
> start up I disconnect the ignition until I have oil pressure, than
> idle the engine until warm after which I would drive at moderate speed
> and load for about 100miles. Never used running in oil , just the
> prescribed oil. Then drained the oil and fitted a new filter and
> filled up with fresh oil. Again another few thousand miles at moderate
> loads, oil and filter change after which speed and load were gradually
> increased until about 5000miles before full speed and load were
> applied. After a rebuild I never encountered any other wear issues on
> any engine. Some engines did more than 250.000 miles after that. The
> only thing that wore were the cylinder walls/rings/pistons and
> valves/seats.
> This is for road cars. Racing/rally cars are supposed to need a
> different approach, however even with engines that were raced I never
> went beyond the original procedure.
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
> Op 27-8-2016 om 18:36 schreef Bob Spidell:
>>
>> Don't know if you know it, Michael, but you 'started' a long thread
>> on the Forum about this (Steve Gerow re-posted a link he got from you):
>>
>> http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?105991-Very-interesting-very-long-blog-posting-racing-oil-and-zinc
>>
>> This guy's research, while impressive, has been disputed here:
>>
>> http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c3-tech-performance/3266544-zinc-myth-and-test-data-on-a-dozen-more-oils.html
>>
>> This is of major interest to me, as I'll be rebuilding my BJ8's
>> engine in the near future. I've run it on off-the-shelf dino
>> 20W-50--Castrol, Chevron (mostly) and Valvoline--for almost 120K
>> miles so it will be interesting to see what the internals look like
>> now (also want to see what deposits, if any, the PCV valve has caused
>> in the intake system). #2 has low compression and we'll see if cam
>> lobe wear is the cause.
>>
>> Agree with Chris on the cam lube. I bought a bunch of GM EOS
>> assembly lube way back when and I'm tempted to pour a bottle down the
>> pushrod tubes before first startup. Thoughts (of course, I'll use
>> assembly lube on the cam and all moving surfaces)?
>>
>> Also, I'm leaning towards buying a cam from Denis Welch, which they
>> say is 'gun-drilled' which, I presume, means the cam is lubricated
>> internally and supplies a stream of oil to the lobes. I'll probably
>> also go with their bucket lifters which have a hole on the bottom to
>> supply yet more oil to the lifter-lobe surfaces.
>>
>> I'm interested in hearing any and all thoughts and experiences on
>> engine assembly and break-in. I'm going all-in on this
>> rebuild--it'll be the last for this car (I hope)--and my dad wants a
>> friend of his who owns a racing engine shop to do the major work ($$$).
>>
>> Bob
>>
>>
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