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[Healeys] Timing Chain Cover Gasket

Subject: [Healeys] Timing Chain Cover Gasket
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur)
Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2017 12:00:08 -0800
References: <000b01d283c5$aed36050$0c7a20f0$@homecall.co.uk> <000001d283d8$54cb2620$fe617260$@verizon.net> <DEB6D5DB62E8482C8D7E1A6C2329DC41@CharliePC> <5e398f3a-14ec-2762-b107-2e6197b13282@comcast.net> <CANQM1P+h4q3veyurEFxgx75WBW0CoQVr-h=hEsWrQLG5aOjPFw@mail.gmail.com>
You can loosen the nut with an open end wrench and engine torque. Once 
loosened, you can then proceed disconnecting everything and lifting the engine.

 

John

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom
Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2017 10:00 AM
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Cc: Healey Mail List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Timing Chain Cover Gasket

 

 

So, even if you manage to get the nut loose without lifting the engine, the nut 
will get stuck on the crossmember as you undo it?

- Tom

 


Did this a couple years ago.  You'll need to pull the radiator, detach the 
throttle shaft and the OD tie rod, and unbolt the engine mounts (at the 
bottom).   Don't lift at the pan unless you're able to spread the load 
considerably.

It's hard to get a good seal; you need to center the seal on the crankshaft 
before tightening the cover bolts.  My engine rebuilder just pointed out to me 
that the bolt at about the 5:30 position is open to the crankcase; you'll want 
to use some sort of thread sealant on it.  Unless your cover is perfectly flat 
you'll want to use some sort of sealant on the gasket.

The nut on the crankshaft is a bitch to get off; IIRC it should have been 
torqued to 150lb-ft.  You have to lift the engine enough for this nut, and 
whatever tool you use to free it, to clear the crossmember.  I used a 3/4" 
impact wrench, and couldn't get the socket on straight and ended up mangling 
the nut pretty bad.

Bob

 

On 2/10/2017 2:30 PM, Charlie Schott wrote:

I have to replace the timing chain cover gasket on a 1967 BJ8. Would someone 
please tell me how much I have to remove from the engine to raise it high 
enough to remove the crankshaft pulley. Thanks.

 

Regards,

 

Charlie 

 

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Simon 
Lachlan
Sent: Friday, February 10, 2017 12:47 PM
To: 'Healey List'
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Gauge dampener

 

Hi,

I?d saved something relating to damping the fluctuations in my fuel gauge. I 
don?t recall if it was originally posted here or if I trawled it off the net. 
I?d made a few notes and filed it appropriately against some day in the future 
when I might get round to actually doing it.

So, my nephew?s fuel gauge bounces around far more than mine and this prompted 
me to dig out the article/notes.

First off, I agree that there?s no sense in putting the capacitor anywhere near 
the fuel tank.

Having said that, I read the advice that I?d stored so carefully and began to 
wonder if I?d understood it correctly. 

Is the capacitor really supposed to be wired across the two terminals on the 
gauge? Would it have any effect? To put it crudely, but in the language that I 
can understand, wouldn?t the fluctuations still come down the Green/Black wire 
from the sender unit and hit the gauge?s terminal T? And wouldn?t those 
fluctuations still register as such on the gauge, totally unaffected by the 
capacitor? 

Shouldn?t the capacitor be wired in such a fashion that the fluctuations cannot 
bypass it?

Maybe I?m over complicating things and should just try it without understanding 
it. Maybe I think too much.

Simon


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