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[Healeys] Timing Chain Cover Gasket

Subject: [Healeys] Timing Chain Cover Gasket
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2017 12:30:10 -0800
References: <000b01d283c5$aed36050$0c7a20f0$@homecall.co.uk> <000001d283d8$54cb2620$fe617260$@verizon.net> <DEB6D5DB62E8482C8D7E1A6C2329DC41@CharliePC> <5e398f3a-14ec-2762-b107-2e6197b13282@comcast.net> <CANQM1P+h4q3veyurEFxgx75WBW0CoQVr-h=hEsWrQLG5aOjPFw@mail.gmail.com>
No ... I just couldn't get a straight shot to the nut with the impact 
wrench to loosen it.  Once it's loose it'll clear the crossmember; you 
have to lift the engine to get the balancer/pulley off.

bs


On 2/12/2017 10:00 AM, Tom wrote:
>
> So, even if you manage to get the nut loose without lifting the 
> engine, the nut will get stuck on the crossmember as you undo it?
>
> - Tom
>
>
> On Fri, Feb 10, 2017 at 8:06 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net 
>
>     Did this a couple years ago.  You'll need to pull the radiator,
>     detach the throttle shaft and the OD tie rod, and unbolt the
>     engine mounts (at the bottom). Don't lift at the pan unless you're
>     able to spread the load considerably.
>
>     It's hard to get a good seal; you need to center the seal on the
>     crankshaft before tightening the cover bolts.  My engine rebuilder
>     just pointed out to me that the bolt at about the 5:30 position is
>     open to the crankcase; you'll want to use some sort of thread
>     sealant on it.  Unless your cover is perfectly flat you'll want to
>     use some sort of sealant on the gasket.
>
>     The nut on the crankshaft is a bitch to get off; IIRC it should
>     have been torqued to 150lb-ft.  You have to lift the engine enough
>     for this nut, and whatever tool you use to free it, to clear the
>     crossmember.  I used a 3/4" impact wrench, and couldn't get the
>     socket on straight and ended up mangling the nut pretty bad.
>
>     Bob
>
>
>     On 2/10/2017 2:30 PM, Charlie Schott wrote:
>>     I have to replace the timing chain cover gasket on a 1967 BJ8.
>>     Would someone please tell me how much I have to remove from the
>>     engine to raise it high enough to remove the crankshaft pulley.
>>     Thanks.
>>     Regards,
>>     Charlie
>>
>>     *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
>>     *Sent:* Friday, February 10, 2017 12:47 PM
>>     *To:* 'Healey List'
>>     *Subject:* [Healeys] Fuel Gauge dampener
>>
>>     Hi,
>>
>>     I?d saved something relating to damping the fluctuations in my
>>     fuel gauge. I don?t recall if it was originally posted here or if
>>     I trawled it off the net. I?d made a few notes and filed it
>>     appropriately against some day in the future when I might get
>>     round to actually doing it.
>>
>>     So, my nephew?s fuel gauge bounces around far more than mine and
>>     this prompted me to dig out the article/notes.
>>
>>     First off, I agree that there?s no sense in putting the capacitor
>>     anywhere near the fuel tank.
>>
>>     Having said that, I read the advice that I?d stored so carefully
>>     and began to wonder if I?d understood it correctly.
>>
>>     Is the capacitor really supposed to be wired across the two
>>     terminals on the gauge? Would it have any effect? To put it
>>     crudely, but in the language that I can understand, wouldn?t the
>>     fluctuations still come down the Green/Black wire from the sender
>>     unit and hit the gauge?s terminal T? And wouldn?t those
>>     fluctuations still register as such on the gauge, totally
>>     unaffected by the capacitor?
>>
>>     Shouldn?t the capacitor be wired in such a fashion that the
>>     fluctuations cannot bypass it?
>>
>>     Maybe I?m over complicating things and should just try it without
>>     understanding it. Maybe I think too much.
>>
>>     Simon
>>
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