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I use NGK's in my (street) Healey and all three race engines (Coventry
Climax, Ford Kent and MGA).
I gap them all at .030" which just happens to be how they come out of the
boxes.
Best--Michael Oritt
On Thu, Feb 7, 2019 at 12:25 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
> I did it just to see what any effect would be (note I only have a
> Pertronix Ignitor ignition module; my coil is bone stock and has a dent
> in it). It does produce a hotter spark as the coil has to develop a
> higher voltage to jump a larger gap (the coil ceases to produce voltage
> when the spark fires; it's effectively a short circuit). If your
> secondary system isn't in good nick leaks or cross-firing can occur.
>
> I think electricity travels fast enough to compensate for a 0.003"
> difference.
>
>
> On 2/6/2019 9:16 AM, David P wrote:
> > ... well, I don't see the reason for increasing the gap at all..
> > Clearly the Pertonix method will make the firing timing more uniform,
> > but it doesn't increase the voltage.. A touted 40,000 volt coil about
> > bragging
> >
> > rights IMHO, and increasing the gap minutely slows the spark delivery,
> > increases the resistance, yada yada.. Fire away..so to speak. DP
> >
> > On 2/6/2019 8:14 AM, Frank Magnusson wrote:
> >> Tom, you have to unscrew the 'nut' from the backside of the dash.
> >> The nut
> >> is a threaded metal sleeve that the indicator screws into.
> >>
> >> Frank
> >>
> >> <I'm trying to remove the turn signal indicator lamps from the wood
> >> dash.
> >> >From what I've been able to figure out, it seems like the small chrome
> >> piece on the front side screws off, but it's stuck and I don't want
> >> to break
> >> anything.
> >>
> >> Any help will be greatly appreciated!
> >>
> >> - Tom>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> ---
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--000000000000aaf4bc058152ae80
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">I use=
NGK's in my (street) Healey and all three race engines (Coventry Clima=
x, Ford Kent and MGA).=C2=A0=C2=A0</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=
=3D"color:#3333ff">I gap them all at .030" which just happens to be ho=
w they come out of the boxes.=C2=A0</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=
=3D"color:#3333ff"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3=
333ff">Best--Michael Oritt</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div d=
ir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Thu, Feb 7, 2019 at 12:25 PM Bob Spidell=
<<a href=3D"mailto:bspidell@comcast.net";>bspidell@comcast.net</a>> w=
rote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0p=
x 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">I did it j=
ust to see what any effect would be (note I only have a <br>
Pertronix Ignitor ignition module; my coil is bone stock and has a dent <br=
>
in it).=C2=A0 It does produce a hotter spark as the coil has to develop a <=
br>
higher voltage to jump a larger gap (the coil ceases to produce voltage <br=
>
when the spark fires; it's effectively a short circuit).=C2=A0 If your =
<br>
secondary system isn't in good nick leaks or cross-firing can occur.<br=
>
<br>
I think electricity travels fast enough to compensate for a 0.003" <br=
>
difference.<br>
<br>
<br>
On 2/6/2019 9:16 AM, David P wrote:<br>
> ... well, I don't see the reason for increasing the gap at all.. <=
br>
> Clearly the Pertonix method will make the firing timing more uniform, =
<br>
> but it doesn't increase the voltage.. A touted 40,000 volt coil ab=
out <br>
> bragging<br>
><br>
> rights IMHO, and increasing the gap minutely slows the spark delivery,=
<br>
> increases the resistance, yada yada.. Fire away..so to speak.=C2=A0 DP=
<br>
><br>
> On 2/6/2019 8:14 AM, Frank Magnusson wrote:<br>
>> Tom, you have to unscrew the 'nut' from the backside of th=
e dash.=C2=A0 <br>
>> The nut<br>
>> is a threaded metal sleeve that the indicator screws into.<br>
>><br>
>> Frank<br>
>><br>
>> <I'm trying to remove the turn signal indicator lamps from =
the wood <br>
>> dash.<br>
>> >From what I've been able to figure out, it seems like the =
small chrome<br>
>> piece on the front side screws off, but it's stuck and I don&#=
39;t want <br>
>> to break<br>
>> anything.<br>
>><br>
>> Any help will be greatly appreciated!<br>
>><br>
>> - Tom><br>
>><br>
>><br>
>><br>
>> ---<br>
>> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus softwar=
e.<br>
>> <a href=3D"https://www.avast.com/antivirus"; rel=3D"noreferrer" tar=
get=3D"_blank">https://www.avast.com/antivirus</a><br>
>><br>
>> _______________________________________________<br>
>> Support Team.Net <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html"; rel=
=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
>> Suggested annual donation=C2=A0 $12.75<br>
>><br>
>> Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys"; rel=3D"=
noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys</a> <br=
>
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t=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/archive</a><br>
>><br>
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s@autox.team.net</a><br>
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s</a><br>
>><br>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: <br>
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orterscustom.com" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.ne=
t/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye@porterscustom.com</a><br>
>><br>
>><br>
>><br>
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