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Could be, but there's not much wiggle room with the bolts.
On 5/21/2019 6:38 PM, Michael Oritt wrote:
> Or perhaps there was some slight misalignment causing the pinion to
> jam ever-so-slightly against the ring gear which was corrected when
> you reinstalled the starter.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> On Tue, May 21, 2019 at 7:20 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net
>
> A while back, I posted a question to the List about the lame
> starter in
> my BN2 (thanks for all the suggestions guys). I tried various
> types of
> jumping the starting system and checking connections and still the
> starter wouldn't turn the engine over even one full turn. I finally
> pulled the starter and took it to a local shop; they opened it up and
> inspected it and said the starter was in great shape, except from
> some
> discoloration on the insulation of the field coils, which had
> obviously
> gotten hot due to all the balked starting attempts. They reassembled
> the starter and gave it back (no charge ;). So, I pulled the
> plugs to
> check mixture and adjust the valves, put the plugs back in and
> gave it a
> crank just for grins, not expecting any change. Lo and behold, it
> cranked just fine--for a 100--and fired on the third or fourth crank
> (had been sitting for a while). Nothing had been significantly
> changed,
> though when I last installed the starter I had used grade 8 flat
> washers
> under grade 8 split washers, and when I installed the starter this
> time
> I decided the flat washers were unnecessary--the holes are 'right
> sized'
> for the bolts--and left them out. That is the only thing I changed
> (except for adjusting the valve lash). I can only surmise there was
> enough resistance from the flat washers and the fairly thick coats of
> paint on both the starter and the engine plate to impede current
> flow to
> ground. The split washers apparently dug through the layers of paint
> and established a good ground.
>
> Thought I'd pass this along.
>
> Bob
>
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<p>Could be, but there's not much wiggle room with the bolts.</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 5/21/2019 6:38 PM, Michael Oritt
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CAPTa0B79F-ZiMmLGm9qBOgbCHnqftgtt2E+zC8AJrssgHWT6Tg@mail.gmail.com">
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
<div dir="ltr">
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff">Or perhaps
there was some slight misalignment causing the pinion to jam
ever-so-slightly against the ring gear which was corrected
when you reinstalled the starter.</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff">Best--Michael
Oritt</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Tue, May 21, 2019 at 7:20
PM Bob Spidell <<a href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net";
moz-do-not-send="true">bspidell@comcast.net</a>> wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px
0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">A
while back, I posted a question to the List about the lame
starter in <br>
my BN2 (thanks for all the suggestions guys). I tried various
types of <br>
jumping the starting system and checking connections and still
the <br>
starter wouldn't turn the engine over even one full turn. I
finally <br>
pulled the starter and took it to a local shop; they opened it
up and <br>
inspected it and said the starter was in great shape, except
from some <br>
discoloration on the insulation of the field coils, which had
obviously <br>
gotten hot due to all the balked starting attempts. They
reassembled <br>
the starter and gave it back (no charge ;). So, I pulled the
plugs to <br>
check mixture and adjust the valves, put the plugs back in and
gave it a <br>
crank just for grins, not expecting any change. Lo and
behold, it <br>
cranked just fine--for a 100--and fired on the third or fourth
crank <br>
(had been sitting for a while). Nothing had been
significantly changed, <br>
though when I last installed the starter I had used grade 8
flat washers <br>
under grade 8 split washers, and when I installed the starter
this time <br>
I decided the flat washers were unnecessary--the holes are
'right sized' <br>
for the bolts--and left them out. That is the only thing I
changed <br>
(except for adjusting the valve lash). I can only surmise
there was <br>
enough resistance from the flat washers and the fairly thick
coats of <br>
paint on both the starter and the engine plate to impede
current flow to <br>
ground. The split washers apparently dug through the layers
of paint <br>
and established a good ground.<br>
<br>
Thought I'd pass this along.<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
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</blockquote>
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