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Either the pump, actuating pistons or the accumulator. My guess would
be the accumulator; mine still worked at 200K miles, but the cylinder
was scored a little from the metal rings on the piston. The actuating
pistons have rubber O-rings that wear so may not provide enough pressure
to override the heavy springs that keep the OD a 'single shaft' when the
it's not operating. I believe the accumulator and pump can be replaced
in situ, but I've not done it. Or some combination of the three. If
you end up replacing the accumulator I recommend the DWM 'uprated' one
if you like crisp activation.
Check: 1) pressure at the actuating valve port (should be over 400psi at
speed, but I think it'll work as low as 350--not sure), 2) that the
actuating shaft rises the correct distance--I believe it's 1/32"--when
activated. If you have good pressure that rules out the pump. If you
got the DWM accumulator, and it wasn't the problem, at least you'll have
a crisper OD when after you tear into it to replace the O-rings.
I'm not surprised it disengages quickly; all the hydraulics are there to
override the 8 heavy springs; the springs shouldn't fail (it's
recommended to replace them if you do a complete rebuild, though I'm not
convinced it's entirely necessary unless the OD was slipping when
engaged; I think it's a 'might as well while it's on the bench' thing).
Bob
ps. My stock accumulator still worked normally, and I kept it; if you
want it I'll let it go for shipping cost.
On 6/29/2019 7:20 AM, Warren wrote:
>
> Recently had the OD quit working. First time in 52 yrs. Luck? Removed
> tunnel and checked electrics and switches and solenoid seemed to work.
> Some hesitancy with solenoid at first. Replaced solenoid and
> interrupter switch as these were original parts and with close to 200K
> on the car thought it prudent to do so. Tranny oil topped off
> regularly and drained and cleanout of screen and magnets every two
> years. Using Redline MT90 for many years. Before that used ND 30wt.
>
> Now I got it to go into OD. Every time. *_The good news_*_._ But it
> takes a loooong time. Many seconds. Just flip the switch at speed and
> â??eventuallyâ?? it slowly slides into OD. Not crisp and instant like
> before.*_The bad news_*. It disengages normally as before. Flip,
> depress clutch slightly, blip accelerator.
>
> Iâ??ve researched the archives as much as possible on all the forums but
> am hesitant to proceed without forum\list wisdom.
>
> WDÂ Â Â Â 67 BJ8
>
>
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<p>Either the pump, actuating pistons or the accumulator. My guess
would be the accumulator; mine still worked at 200K miles, but the
cylinder was scored a little from the metal rings on the piston.Â
The actuating pistons have rubber O-rings that wear so may not
provide enough pressure to override the heavy springs that keep
the OD a 'single shaft' when the it's not operating. I believe
the accumulator and pump can be replaced in situ, but I've not
done it. Or some combination of the three. If you end up
replacing the accumulator I recommend the DWM 'uprated' one if you
like crisp activation.<br>
</p>
<p>Check: 1) pressure at the actuating valve port (should be over
400psi at speed, but I think it'll work as low as 350--not sure),
2) that the actuating shaft rises the correct distance--I believe
it's 1/32"--when activated. If you have good pressure that rules
out the pump. If you got the DWM accumulator, and it wasn't the
problem, at least you'll have a crisper OD when after you tear
into it to replace the O-rings.</p>
<p>I'm not surprised it disengages quickly; all the hydraulics are
there to override the 8 heavy springs; the springs shouldn't fail
(it's recommended to replace them if you do a complete rebuild,
though I'm not convinced it's entirely necessary unless the OD was
slipping when engaged; I think it's a 'might as well while it's on
the bench' thing).<br>
</p>
<p>Bob</p>
<p>ps. My stock accumulator still worked normally, and I kept it;
if you want it I'll let it go for shipping cost.</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 6/29/2019 7:20 AM, Warren wrote:<br>
</div>
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<p class="MsoNormal">Recently had the OD quit working. First
time in 52 yrs. Luck? Removed tunnel and checked electrics and
switches and solenoid seemed to work. Some hesitancy with
solenoid at first. Replaced solenoid and interrupter switch as
these were original parts and with close to 200K on the car
thought it prudent to do so. Tranny oil topped off regularly
and drained and cleanout of screen and magnets every two
years. Using Redline MT90 for many years. Before that used ND
30wt.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Now I got it to go into OD. Every time. <b><u>The
good news</u></b><u>.</u> But it takes a loooong time.
Many seconds. Just flip the switch at speed and â??eventuallyâ??
it slowly slides into OD. Not crisp and instant like before.<b>
<u>The bad news</u></b>. It disengages normally as before.
Flip, depress clutch slightly, blip accelerator.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Iâ??ve researched the archives as much as
possible on all the forums but am hesitant to proceed without
forum\list wisdom.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">WDÂ Â Â Â 67 BJ8 </p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
<br>
</div>
<pre class="moz-quote-pre" wrap="">
</pre>
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