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The accumulator in the overdrives installed in Austin Healeys have a reduce=
d bore size to moderate the force of the shift into OD. The bore sleeve or =
liner has rubber o-rings that seal the pressure in the accumulator bore. Th=
ese o-rings deteriorate with time, heat, and use and then they allow oil to=
leak past the accumulator piston thus reducing the pressure that can be de=
veloped.
To replace them you need to remove the side plate that holds the accumulato=
r in place, place a dowel in the piston to hold it in place and pressurize =
the OD from the actuator port valve thus forcing the sleeve out so the o-ri=
ngs can be replaced.
Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell <bs=
pidell@comcast.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 29, 2019 3:40 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] OD Good news Bad news
Either the pump, actuating pistons or the accumulator. My guess would be t=
he accumulator; mine still worked at 200K miles, but the cylinder was score=
d a little from the metal rings on the piston. The actuating pistons have =
rubber O-rings that wear so may not provide enough pressure to override the=
heavy springs that keep the OD a 'single shaft' when the it's not operatin=
g. I believe the accumulator and pump can be replaced in situ, but I've no=
t done it. Or some combination of the three. If you end up replacing the =
accumulator I recommend the DWM 'uprated' one if you like crisp activation.
Check: 1) pressure at the actuating valve port (should be over 400psi at sp=
eed, but I think it'll work as low as 350--not sure), 2) that the actuating=
shaft rises the correct distance--I believe it's 1/32"--when activated. I=
f you have good pressure that rules out the pump. If you got the DWM accum=
ulator, and it wasn't the problem, at least you'll have a crisper OD when a=
fter you tear into it to replace the O-rings.
I'm not surprised it disengages quickly; all the hydraulics are there to ov=
erride the 8 heavy springs; the springs shouldn't fail (it's recommended to=
replace them if you do a complete rebuild, though I'm not convinced it's e=
ntirely necessary unless the OD was slipping when engaged; I think it's a '=
might as well while it's on the bench' thing).
Bob
ps. My stock accumulator still worked normally, and I kept it; if you want=
it I'll let it go for shipping cost.
On 6/29/2019 7:20 AM, Warren wrote:
Recently had the OD quit working. First time in 52 yrs. Luck? Removed tunne=
l and checked electrics and switches and solenoid seemed to work. Some hesi=
tancy with solenoid at first. Replaced solenoid and interrupter switch as t=
hese were original parts and with close to 200K on the car thought it prude=
nt to do so. Tranny oil topped off regularly and drained and cleanout of sc=
reen and magnets every two years. Using Redline MT90 for many years. Before=
that used ND 30wt.
Now I got it to go into OD. Every time. The good news. But it takes a loooo=
ng time. Many seconds. Just flip the switch at speed and =93eventually=94 i=
t slowly slides into OD. Not crisp and instant like before. The bad news. I=
t disengages normally as before. Flip, depress clutch slightly, blip accele=
rator.
I=92ve researched the archives as much as possible on all the forums but am=
hesitant to proceed without forum\list wisdom.
WD 67 BJ8
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<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
The accumulator in the overdrives installed in Austin Healeys have a reduce=
d bore size to moderate the force of the shift into OD. The bore sleeve or =
liner has rubber o-rings that seal the pressure in the accumulator bore. Th=
ese o-rings deteriorate with time,
heat, and use and then they allow oil to leak past the accumulator piston =
thus reducing the pressure that can be developed. </div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
To replace them you need to remove the side plate that holds the accumulato=
r in place, place a dowel in the piston to hold it in place and pressurize =
the OD from the actuator port valve thus forcing the sleeve out so the o-ri=
ngs can be replaced.</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
Bill Lawrence</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
BN1 #554 </div>
<div id=3D"appendonsend"></div>
<hr style=3D"display:inline-block;width:98%" tabindex=3D"-1">
<div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" st=
yle=3D"font-size:11pt" color=3D"#000000"><b>From:</b> Healeys <healeys-b=
ounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net=
><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Saturday, June 29, 2019 3:40 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> healeys@autox.team.net<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] OD Good news Bad news</font>
<div> </div>
</div>
<div style=3D"background-color:#FFFFFF">
<p>Either the pump, actuating pistons or the accumulator. My guess wo=
uld be the accumulator; mine still worked at 200K miles, but the cylinder w=
as scored a little from the metal rings on the piston. The actuating =
pistons have rubber O-rings that wear so may
not provide enough pressure to override the heavy springs that keep the OD=
a 'single shaft' when the it's not operating. I believe the accumula=
tor and pump can be replaced in situ, but I've not done it. Or some c=
ombination of the three. If you end up replacing
the accumulator I recommend the DWM 'uprated' one if you like crisp activa=
tion.<br>
</p>
<p>Check: 1) pressure at the actuating valve port (should be over 400psi at=
speed, but I think it'll work as low as 350--not sure), 2) that the actuat=
ing shaft rises the correct distance--I believe it's 1/32"--when activ=
ated. If you have good pressure that
rules out the pump. If you got the DWM accumulator, and it wasn't th=
e problem, at least you'll have a crisper OD when after you tear into it to=
replace the O-rings.</p>
<p>I'm not surprised it disengages quickly; all the hydraulics are there to=
override the 8 heavy springs; the springs shouldn't fail (it's recommended=
to replace them if you do a complete rebuild, though I'm not convinced it'=
s entirely necessary unless the
OD was slipping when engaged; I think it's a 'might as well while it's on =
the bench' thing).<br>
</p>
<p>Bob</p>
<p>ps. My stock accumulator still worked normally, and I kept it; if =
you want it I'll let it go for shipping cost.</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<div class=3D"x_moz-cite-prefix">On 6/29/2019 7:20 AM, Warren wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
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<p class=3D"x_MsoNormal">Recently had the OD quit working. First time in 52=
yrs. Luck? Removed tunnel and checked electrics and switches and solenoid =
seemed to work. Some hesitancy with solenoid at first. Replaced solenoid an=
d interrupter switch as these were
original parts and with close to 200K on the car thought it prudent to do =
so. Tranny oil topped off regularly and drained and cleanout of screen and =
magnets every two years. Using Redline MT90 for many years. Before that use=
d ND 30wt.</p>
<p class=3D"x_MsoNormal"> </p>
<p class=3D"x_MsoNormal">Now I got it to go into OD. Every time. <b><u>The =
good news</u></b><u>.</u> But it takes a loooong time. Many seconds. Just f=
lip the switch at speed and =93eventually=94 it slowly slides into OD. Not =
crisp and instant like before.<b>
<u>The bad news</u></b>. It disengages normally as before. Flip, depress cl=
utch slightly, blip accelerator.</p>
<p class=3D"x_MsoNormal"> </p>
<p class=3D"x_MsoNormal">I=92ve researched the archives as much as possible=
on all the forums but am hesitant to proceed without forum\list wisdom.</p=
>
<p class=3D"x_MsoNormal"> </p>
<p class=3D"x_MsoNormal">WD 67 BJ8 </p>
<p class=3D"x_MsoNormal"> </p>
<p class=3D"x_MsoNormal"> </p>
<br>
</div>
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</pre>
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