Roger Moment did an article a couple months ago in Austin-Healey
Magazine about using a mechanical/electrical switch.Â I bought the
switch but haven't installed it; was really hoping the RFR switch would
do the trick.Â My current switch (heh) was working, I just had to hit
the pedal harder than I though I should have to to activate the lights.Â
I've had other motorists tell me my brake lights weren't working--I put
LEDs in a couple years ago, and I know they're visible--but I think it's
partly because I coast and/or engine brake instead of jackrabbiting into
stop signs/lights and slamming on the brakes like so many drivers do.
Guess I'll put a new, stock switch in and see if that helps.
On 7/28/2019 11:13 AM, Roger Grace wrote:
> Yes these hydraulic switches are notoriously problematic.
> I am of the opinion that the contacts get pitted and so this gives the
> erratic or non closing of the circuit. Have replaced at least 10 over the
> years on other Brit cars.
> The solution is to fit a relay for this issue.
> However this does not help with setting sensitivity.
> I have fitted a mechanicat switch on the brake pedal shaft and the operating
> point is easily set - as sensitive as you want. This switch is wired in
> parallel with the hyd. one and drives a relay. So the hyd switch is just a
> back up.
> Works just fine.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Bob Spidell <firstname.lastname@example.org>
> To: Healeys <email@example.com>
> Sent: Sat, 27 Jul 2019 18:42:49 -0600 (MDT)
> Subject: [Healeys] Brake Light Switch
> A while ago, I bought a 'sensitive' brake light switch from Ron Francis
> Racing (IIRC, based on a recommendation from someone here).Â Today I
> tried to install it and it has the wrong threads, which I only realized
> after fabbing a couple leads for it.Â So my question is, does anybody
> make a higher-quality--i.e. more sensitive--switch that will actually
> fit a Healey's brake lines? I've got a mechanical switch, but would
> prefer to stay with the hydraulic if I can find one that doesn't take a
> quarter-pedal of motion to activate.
> Also, the threads on my (now broken) current switch appear to be
> machine, whereas the RFR switch was 1/8" pipe; anyone know what the
> correct size of the current switch is (I had to put it back in to stop
> the leak).
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive