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Bob--
That is how the switches eventually fail--they work when one stands on the
brakes but the contacts do not close under normaL, moderate pressure.
Best--Michael IOritt
On Sun, Jul 28, 2019 at 11:02 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
> Roger Moment did an article a couple months ago in Austin-Healey
> Magazine about using a mechanical/electrical switch. I bought the
> switch but haven't installed it; was really hoping the RFR switch would
> do the trick. My current switch (heh) was working, I just had to hit
> the pedal harder than I though I should have to to activate the lights.
> I've had other motorists tell me my brake lights weren't working--I put
> LEDs in a couple years ago, and I know they're visible--but I think it's
> partly because I coast and/or engine brake instead of jackrabbiting into
> stop signs/lights and slamming on the brakes like so many drivers do.
>
> Guess I'll put a new, stock switch in and see if that helps.
>
> Bob
>
> On 7/28/2019 11:13 AM, Roger Grace wrote:
> > Yes these hydraulic switches are notoriously problematic.
> > I am of the opinion that the contacts get pitted and so this gives the
> erratic or non closing of the circuit. Have replaced at least 10 over the
> years on other Brit cars.
> > The solution is to fit a relay for this issue.
> > However this does not help with setting sensitivity.
> > I have fitted a mechanicat switch on the brake pedal shaft and the
> operating point is easily set - as sensitive as you want. This switch is
> wired in parallel with the hyd. one and drives a relay. So the hyd switch
> is just a back up.
> > Works just fine.
> > rg
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
> > To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Sat, 27 Jul 2019 18:42:49 -0600 (MDT)
> > Subject: [Healeys] Brake Light Switch
> >
> > A while ago, I bought a 'sensitive' brake light switch from Ron Francis
> > Racing (IIRC, based on a recommendation from someone here). Today I
> > tried to install it and it has the wrong threads, which I only realized
> > after fabbing a couple leads for it. So my question is, does anybody
> > make a higher-quality--i.e. more sensitive--switch that will actually
> > fit a Healey's brake lines? I've got a mechanical switch, but would
> > prefer to stay with the hydraulic if I can find one that doesn't take a
> > quarter-pedal of motion to activate.
> >
> > Also, the threads on my (now broken) current switch appear to be
> > machine, whereas the RFR switch was 1/8" pipe; anyone know what the
> > correct size of the current switch is (I had to put it back in to stop
> > the leak).
> >
> > TIA,
> >
> > Bob
> >
> >
> >
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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">Bob--=
</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><br></div><div c=
lass=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">That is how the switches eve=
ntually fail--they work when one stands on the brakes but the contacts do n=
ot close under normaL, moderate pressure.=C2=A0=C2=A0</div><div class=3D"gm=
ail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default"=
style=3D"color:#3333ff">Best--Michael IOritt</div></div><br><div class=3D"=
gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sun, Jul 28, 2019 at =
11:02 PM Bob Spidell <<a href=3D"mailto:bspidell@comcast.net";>bspidell@c=
omcast.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=
=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding=
-left:1ex">Roger Moment did an article a couple months ago in Austin-Healey=
<br>
Magazine about using a mechanical/electrical switch.=C2=A0 I bought the <br=
>
switch but haven't installed it; was really hoping the RFR switch would=
<br>
do the trick.=C2=A0 My current switch (heh) was working, I just had to hit =
<br>
the pedal harder than I though I should have to to activate the lights.=C2=
=A0 <br>
I've had other motorists tell me my brake lights weren't working--I=
put <br>
LEDs in a couple years ago, and I know they're visible--but I think it&=
#39;s <br>
partly because I coast and/or engine brake instead of jackrabbiting into <b=
r>
stop signs/lights and slamming on the brakes like so many drivers do.<br>
<br>
Guess I'll put a new, stock switch in and see if that helps.<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
On 7/28/2019 11:13 AM, Roger Grace wrote:<br>
> Yes these hydraulic switches are notoriously problematic.<br>
> I am of the opinion that the contacts get pitted and so this gives the=
erratic or non closing of the circuit. Have replaced at least 10 over the =
years on other Brit cars.<br>
> The solution is to fit a relay for this issue.<br>
> However this does not help with setting sensitivity.<br>
> I have fitted a mechanicat switch on the brake pedal shaft and the ope=
rating point is easily set - as sensitive as you want. This switch is wired=
in parallel with the hyd. one and drives a relay. So the hyd switch is jus=
t a back up.<br>
> Works just fine.<br>
> rg<br>
><br>
><br>
> ----- Original Message -----<br>
> From: Bob Spidell <<a href=3D"mailto:bspidell@comcast.net"; target=
=3D"_blank">bspidell@comcast.net</a>><br>
> To: Healeys <<a href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_b=
lank">healeys@autox.team.net</a>><br>
> Sent: Sat, 27 Jul 2019 18:42:49 -0600 (MDT)<br>
> Subject: [Healeys] Brake Light Switch<br>
><br>
> A while ago, I bought a 'sensitive' brake light switch from Ro=
n Francis<br>
> Racing (IIRC, based on a recommendation from someone here).=C2=A0 Toda=
y I<br>
> tried to install it and it has the wrong threads, which I only realize=
d<br>
> after fabbing a couple leads for it.=C2=A0 So my question is, does any=
body<br>
> make a higher-quality--i.e. more sensitive--switch that will actually<=
br>
> fit a Healey's brake lines? I've got a mechanical switch, but =
would<br>
> prefer to stay with the hydraulic if I can find one that doesn't t=
ake a<br>
> quarter-pedal of motion to activate.<br>
><br>
> Also, the threads on my (now broken) current switch appear to be<br>
> machine, whereas the RFR switch was 1/8" pipe; anyone know what t=
he<br>
> correct size of the current switch is (I had to put it back in to stop=
<br>
> the leak).<br>
><br>
> TIA,<br>
><br>
> Bob<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
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</blockquote></div>
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